Presented byPresented byRooma khalidRooma khalid

M.Phil pharmaceuticsM.Phil pharmaceutics(2014_2016)(2014_2016)

ISLAMIA UNIVERSITY ISLAMIA UNIVERSITY BWP BWP

CONTENTS Introduction

History of cosmetics

Raw materials and their classification

References

INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION word derived from Greek KOSM TIKOS KOSM TIKOS means ‘having the

power,arrange,skilled in decorating. According to FDA-According to FDA- Articles intended to be rubbed , poured,

sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into ,or otherwise applied to the human body, for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance

The Beginning of The Beginning of CosmeticsCosmetics The first archaeological evidence of

cosmetics is found in Ancient Egypt in the year 4000 B.C.

Ancient Greeks, Romans and Egyptians used cosmetics out of mercury ,white lead, and myrrh

1515THTH -16 -16THTH CENTURY CENTURY Italy and France became the chief centers of cosmetic manufacturing

France begin to create new fragrances and cosmetics by blending ingredients

1919THTH CENTURY CENTURY Cosmetic deodorant was invented in 1888, by an unknown inventor from

Philadelphia. France develop chemical processes to replace fragrances made by natural method Zinc oxide widely used as facial powder- replaced mixtures of lead and copper

a

Cosmetic regulation Cosmetic regulation 77

Voluntry guidelines In the 1930s manufactures employed chemists in quality control

&development laboratories . In 1940 British govt start licensing toiletry &cosmetic factories.The perfumery manufactures association was formed in 1945

ConsumerismGrew in 1960s &1970s in USA and in UK &rest of Europe.

CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS Cosmetics

Skin hair nail hygienic

Powder compact creams lotions colorantsFace powder

Body powder

Compact powder

Prickling heat powder Cold cream

Vanishing cream

All purpose cream

Cleansing cream

Emollient cream

Foundation cream

Astringent

lotion

Lipstick

Hair remover

Depilator

Epilator

Shaving creams

Hair wave ppn

Hair dressing

Hair conditioner

Shampoo

Hair dyes, lotions

Eye lash (mascara)

Eye brow pencil

Eye lid inside

Nail lacquers

Lacquers remover

Nail polish

Cuticle remover

Dental Bath

Powder

Paste

Dentifrices

Lotion

Mouth

washes

Bath soap

RAW MATERIALS:1) Antibacterial agents and preservatives2) Colorants3) Skin feel agents4) Hydrating substances5) Ceramides and lipids6) Moisturizers7) Thickners

RAW MATERIALS8) Uv filters9) Skin whitening: ellagic acid10) Skin whitening: new hydroquinone combination11) Alpha hydroxy acids12) Surfactants13) Anti-irritants for surfactant based products

RAW MATERIALS14) Seawater salts15) Silicones-A key ingredient in cosmetic and toiletry formulations16) Antioxidants 17) Dexpanthenol18) Hair conditioners

RAW MATERIALS1.ANTI BACTERIAL AND PRESERVATIVES: The term “antibacterial agent” is largely used to qualify

chemical agents, which are included in cosmetics or household products to provide them. . .

I. Bactericidal or bacteriostatic activityII.To protect the product by providing a preservative

efficacy against micro-organisms.

RAW MATERIALSANTIBACTERIALS AND PRESERVATIVES:Historically, the first antibacterial products developed

were skin wash products such as soap bars, derived from deodorant soap bar.

The purpose was not only to clean the skin but also to reduce its microbial flora.

RAW MATERIALSTOPICAL ANTIMICROBIAL PRODUCTS:Triclocarboan (TCC) Most

antibacterial soap bar contains TCC as the active ingredient.

Formaldehyde In the past, antibacterial soap bars were prepared with formaldehyde. These were very effective for hospital use, but the use of formaldehyde declined due to toxicity reasons.

RAW MATERIALS TOPICAL ANTIMICROBIAL PRODUCTS: Triclosan Currently a max of 1%of the liquid soaps are formulated

with triclosan.

Safety of the regular use of TCC and triclosan were extensivly discussed by FDA.

RAW MATERIALS TOPICAL ANTIMICROBIAL PRODUCTS: The FDA prepared a final monograph in 1994 in which

topical antimicrobial products were classified in three categories:

1.Antiseptic hand wash or health care personnel hand wash.2.Patient preoperative skin preparation.3.Surgical hand scrub.

Most commonly used preservatives

Preservative name

Activity spectrum

Compatible with

Inactivated by

Optimum PH

Parabens: esters of benzoic acid

Fungi, gram positive

cationic Anionic, nonionic, proteins

<7

Imidazolydinil urea Broad, weak against fungi

Anionic, nonionic, cationic, proteins

4-9

Preservative name

Activity spectrum

Compatible with

Inactivated by Optimum PH

Diazolydinil urea isothiazolones

broad Anionic, nonionic, cationic

Bleach, high PH 4-8

formaldehyde broad Anionic, nonionic, cationic

T>60 C 4-9

Hydantoin benzalkonium Cl

Gram positive, gram negative, weak against olds

Nonionic, cationic

Anionic, proteins, soaps

4-9

2-bromo-2-nitropropane 1,3-diol

broad Anionic, nonionic, cationic

Heat, high PH, cysteine, aluminium

<6

RAW MATERIALS 2.WATER: It is the most widely used raw materials in the

manufacture of cosmetics. Water is used as a solvent for many ingredients of

cosmetics.

RAW MATERIALS3.COLORANTS:The use of coloring agents for decorative purpose is one

of the earliest cultural accomplishments of humankind.The dramatic boom in the development of color industry

led to numerous new colorants and pigmentsInorganic pigments are used in large quantities

RAW MATERIALS3. COLORANTS:In coloring decorative cosmetics several products are of

vital ipmortance: e.g titanium dioxide is most important white pigmentIron oxides and iron hydroxides for the colors yellow,red

and black,ultramarine especially in blue and violet,prussian blue,coal black.

RAW MATERIALS3.COLORANTS:By combining iron oxides with titanium dioxide various

brown tones can be created in makeup and toning creamsThe most significant colorant is composed of the organic

colorants and pigmentsMainly these are

azo,triarylmethane,anthraquinone,xanthene or phthalocyanine colorants and pigments

RAW MATERIALS CLASSIFICATION OF COLORANTS: Based on its solubilty there are three classes1.Colorants that are soluble in the medium being

colored(usually water or oil soluble)2.Pigments and colour lakes that are not soluble in the

medium being colored3.Water dispersible colorants

RAW MATERIALSAlthough there are approximately 160 approved cosmetic

colorants ,but only a limited number of them are really used

RAW MATERIALSCOLORANT GROUPS: WATER SOLUBLE COLORANTS: Creams,soap,toothpaste gel,mouthwash,bath

products OIL SOLUBLE COLORANTS: Oil products and soap PIGMENTS: Makeup powder,lipstick,soap,toothpaste

RAW MATERIALSCOLORANT GROUPS:COLOR LAKES: Eye makeup,lipstickWATER DISPERSIBLE PIGMENTS: Soap

RAW MATERIALS4.SKIN FEEL AGENTS:Substances conferring sensorial properties to a skin care

product,triggering pleasant perception during application onto the skin and after use

It includes: lipophillic materials,silicones,water soluble

polymeric substances and their cationic derivatives

RAW MATERIALS CFTA CLASSIFICATION:CFTA divides skin conditioning agents into various

groups e.g emollients,occlusive materials and miscellanous

substances including cationic macromolecules and surfactants

RAW MATERIALS EMOLLIENTS:Cosmetic ingredients which help to maintain the

soft,smooth and pliable apperance of the skinObtained from natural origin or by chemical synthesis

RAW MATERIALSEMOLIENT CLASSIFICATION: 1: polar substances(esters and triglycerides) 2:non polar substances(paraffins and iso paraffins)As a class they comprise lipids,oils and their

derivatives,fatty acid esters,lanolin derivatives and silicones.

RAW MATERIALSLIPOPHILLIC EMOLLIENTS AND OCCULUSIVES:They comprise vegetable oils ,triglycerides,mineral

oil,natural or synthetic waxes,fatty acid esters,lanolin oil and its derivatives

Commonly used in liquid skin cleansing products

RAW MATERIALSHYDROPHLLIC LIPIDS:Preferred for foaming skin cleansing preprationsIt includes ethoxylated glycerides,low ethoxylates

triglycerides,ethoxylated mono and di glycerides,propoxylated fatty alcohols

RAW MATERIALS LANOLIN:Extracted from sheep wool greaseComplex mixtures of esters of high molecular weight

lanolin alcohols and lanolin fattyacidsFree lanolin alcohols ,acids and lanolin hydrocarbons are

minor75 mole ethoxylated lanolin is recommended as skin

conditioner in soaps and liqiud cleansing products

RAW MATERIALSWAXES:Some common waxes used in cosmetics are beeswax,

candelilla, carnauba, polyethylene, and paraffinCommonly used in lip balms and sticks, waxes function

as structuring agents, giving the stick enough rigidity to stand up on its own, as well as barrier properties

RAW MATERIALSWAXES:Often waxes are combined with compatible oils to

achieve the desired softness.Waxes are particularly useful in hand creams and mascara

emulsions for their thickening and waterproofing properties.

RAW MATERIALSSOFT PARAFFIN:Soft paraffin – mixture of hydrocarbon obtained from

petroleumTwo types- yellow and white soft paraffin Emollient in nature Hydrophobic in nature –produce occlusive film which

prevents water loss from skin

RAW MATERIALS LECITHIN:Natural mixture of polar and neutral lipidsIt softens,nourishes the skin and provides a non greasy

long lasting skin feel and quality(creaminess,richness and slipperiness)

RAW MATERIALSSILICONE DERIVATIVES:Mainly used in body cleansing productsIt includes: Dimethicones(used in liquid cleansers) Cyclomethicone(dry emollients)

RAW MATERIALS HUMECTANTS:Cosmetic ingredients intended to increase the water

content of top layers of skinExamples includes Glycerine,propylene

glycol,sorbitol,xylitolEthoxylated methyl glucose,lactic acid,sodium lactateConditioning humectants i.e chitosan

RAW MATERIALS6.HYDRATING SUBSTANCES:They are used in cosmetic products to retard moisture loss

from the product during use and to increase the moisture content in material

Function is generally perfomed by humectants and hygroscopic substances

Target areas are dry hair and dry skin

RAW MATERIALSCHEMICAL CLASSES OF HYDRATING

SUBSTANCES: They include: butylene glycol glycerine lactic acid propylene glycol sorbitol urea panthenol

RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES 1. BUTYLENE GLYCOL: Used as humectant in topical products Oftenly used in hair sprays and setting lotions Alcohol retards loss of aromas and preserves

cosmetics

RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES2.GLYCERINE: Used as

solvent,plasticizer,sweetner,lubricant and preservative 20-25% conc are used in moisturizers for treatment of

dry skin conditions

RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES3.LACTIC ACID: It has been used in topical preparations because of

its buffering properties and water binding capacity It is also used for the treatment of dandruff,

keratosis,dry skin and acne Also to improve the clinical appearance of skin

RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES4.PANTHENOL: It is an alcohol which is converted in tissues to D-

pantothenic acid(Vitamin B5),a component of coenzyme A in the body

It is widely used in cosmetic industry for its moisturizing and soothing properties

It is found in topical treatment for rhinitis,skin repair and sunburn.

RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES5.PROPYLENE GLYCOL: It is widely used in cosmetic manufacturing as

a solvent and vehicle It has been tried in treatment of number of skin

disorders including ichthyosis and seborrheic dermatitis Useful for treatment of skin irritation and

sensitization reactions

RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES6.PROTEINS: Proteins and aminoacids used for cosmetics are

based on natural sources Collegen is the traditional protein used in

cosmetics But their inclusion in cosmetics may require

stronger preservatives

RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES7.SORBITOL: It occurs naturally in fruits. It is used as sweetner in toothpastes. Sorbitol, glucose, and other sugars are also

commonly used to hydrate the skin.

RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES8.UREA: It is used as 10% cream for the treatment of

ichthyosis and hyperkeratotic skin disorders and in lower concentrations for the treatment of dry skin

RAW MATERIALS7.CERAMIDES AND LIPIDS:The majority of emollients used in personal care and

beauty items are fats and oils, also called lipids. Many of the major cosmetic companies are moving

away from animal-based materials to renewable vegetable-based materials.

Cocunut oil and palm kernel oil are often used.

RAW MATERIALS7.CERAMDES AND LIPIDS:Petroleum-based emollients such as petroleum jelly and

mineral oil are found in many formulations.Silicone oils such as cyclomethicone, dimethicone are

often added to increase slip and emolliency. Long-chain alcohols, also called fatty alcohols, are useful

as emollients and emulsion stablizers.

RAW MATERIALS 8.MOISTURIZERS:Moisturizers are generally polar materials that are

hygroscopic in nature they hold onto waterGlycerin is a very cost-effective ingredient used to help

reduce TEWL.Aloe contains a mixture of polysaccharides,

carbohydrates, and minerals, is an excellent moisturizer

RAW MATERIALS 9.THICKNERS:By incorporating enough wax into a thin lotion, a thick

cream can be formed. Many thickeners are polymers e.g cellulose and carbopol.

Carrageenan, pectin, and locust bean gum are all examples of cosmetic thickeners.

RAW MATERIALS10.ACTIVE INGREDIENTS:Materials that work physiologically within the skin or aid

in protecting the skin are called active ingredients.Fruit acids are an example of an active material. Also

called alpha hydroxyacids.They have the ability to penetrate the skin.Thousands of cosmetic actives are used to affect the skin

in a variety of ways.

RAW MATERIALS10.ACTIVE NGREDIENTS:Some active materials are added to skin treatments to

protect the skin from the environment. Dimethicone and petrolatum are examples of skin protectants.

Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are important ingredients because of their anti-acne activity.

RAW MATERIALS 11.SUNSCREENS:Sunscreens are a class of compounds that protect the skin

from ultraviolet radiation.Octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salycilate, titanium

dioxide and avobenzone are some important topical sunscreens.

They can be classified depending upon the wavelengths they absorb.

RAW MATERIALS11.SUNSCREENS:Benzophenone 4, a water-soluble UV filter, is commonly

used to protect the color of cosmetic products.

RAW MATERIALS 12.PRESERVATIVES:Most cosmetic products require the addition of

preservative to prevent microbial contamination and rancidity.

Parabens and ester of parabenzoic acid are the most commonly used because of their effectiveness against gram-positive bacteria.

Phenoxyethanol is used to protect against gram negative strains.

RAW MATERIALS12.PRESERVATIVES: Antioxidants such as tocopherol (vitamin E) are also

added to prevent oxidation of sensitive ingredients as well as protect the skin from free-radical damage.

RAW MATERIALSCLASSIFICATION OF PRESERVATIVES:Based on the chemical nature preservatives are classified as

follows:1.ORGANIC ACIDS: Benzoic acid,formic acid,salicylic acid,P-hydroxy

benzoic acid.2.ALCOHOLS: Ethyl alcohol,isopropyl alcohol,chlorobutanol

RAW MATERIALSCLASSIFICATION OF PRESERVATIVES:3.ALDEHYDES: Formaldehyde,cinnamic aldehyde4.PHENOLIC COMPOUNDS: Cresol, P-Choloro m-cresol phenol

REFERENCESREFERENCEShttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_cosmeticshttp://www.cyonic-nemeton.com/Cosmetics.htmlhttp://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/history.phpCosmetics and Perfumes, Egypt, 10,000 BCE by Mindy Cohen, 1999A History of Fragrance ©1995 Kathi Keville and Mindy Green A Hand book of cosmetics by B.M.Mithal & R.N.SharmaPoucher’s perfumes, Cometics and Soaps 10th edition