Wet Processing Technology

1

Wet Processing Technology -IV WPT 402

Duration

10 October 2010 - 10 December 2010

Factory Name

GMS Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd.

Sardagong, Kashipur, Gazipur

Supervising Teacher Ismat Zerin

Prepared By

Md. Yusuf Miah

ID # 05310015

Bath: 1st

Department of Textile Engineering

40, Kemal Ataturk Avenue

Banani, Dhaka -1213, Bangladesh

2

Index

Sl No. Chapter No. Description Index No

01 Chapter- 01 Peoject Description 01

02 Chapter- 02 Manpower Management 07

03 Chapter- 03 Knitting Section 13

04 Chapter- 04 Batch Section 44

05 Chapter- 05 Lab Section 48

06 Chapter- 06 Dyeing Section 83

07 Chapter- 07 Finishing Section 128

08 Chapter- 08 Yarn Dyeing Section 161

09 Chapter- 09 Garments Section 194

10 Chapter- 10 Printing Section 201

11 Chapter- 11 Effluent Treatment Plant 216

12 Chapter- 12 Maintenance 237

13 Chapter- 13 Inventory 242

14 Chapter- 14 Cost Analysis 249

15 Chapter- 15 Utility Services

251

3

4

Project Description

Name : Montex Fabrics Ltd (Mondol Group).

Type : 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Industry.

Year of establishment : 2000

Investor : Abdul Mojid Mondol

Location : Nayapara, Konabari, Gazipur.

Project cost : 70 crore

Certification & awards : ISO 9001:2000.

Production capacity : Knitting: 7 tons/day

Dyeing: 18 ton/day

Sewing: 70,000pcs/day

Main Production : Basic T-Shirt, Long Sleeve, Sweater,

T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Pajama, Ladies, Kids

Knitwear& all kinds of knit

Garments & Knit fabrics.

Factory space : 9 acor

Garments or knitting : 5 acor

Dyeing : 3.75acor

ETP : 0.25acor

5

Contact information:

Contact persons : Md. Saifur Islam (HR Manager)

Contact Number : 01713424473

Corporate office : H-8 2nd

Floor,

Sonargang, Janapath Road Sector -11, Uttera,

New Modal Town, Dhaka-1230

Factory : Nayapara, Konabari, Gazipur

Supporting department

Personnel department

Marketing and Mercendising

Utility

Human resource Department

Accounting and financing

Sister companies of Montex Fabrics Ltd.

1. Mondol yarn dyeing Ltd.

2. Montrim Ltd..

3. Mondol Knitt wears Ltd.

4. Cotton club (BD) Ltd.

5. Alim Knitt wears Ltd.

6. Mondol Seccuraty Ltd.

7. Apollo Fashion Ltd.

8. Mondol Switers Ltd.

9. Mondol Fabrics Ltd.

16 Sisters companies of Montex Fabrics Ltd.

E–mail Address: [email protected]

URL:http://www.mondol.net

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.texeuropbangladesh.com/

6

History of the project development

After successful operation in Montex fabrics Ltd, the owner had decided to start a

fully information & technology based along with the social accountability and quality

controlled modern ready made composite knit garments industry in large scale. In this

connection Abdul Mojid Mondol had decided in a resolution to start a company in Nayapara,

Konabari and Gazipur. In the year 2000 to manufacture knitwear garments for the

international market. Right from inception the policy of the company has been to provide

total customer satisfaction by offering quality knitwear in time. To meet the commitments of

quality and prompt delivery, Montex fabrics Ltd Decided to integrate the manufacturing

process in a planned manner. Over the years the entire process has been integrated by

importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned manufacturers.

Working on new concepts in styling & content of the knitwear is a continuous activity

in Montex fabrics Ltd with an objective to up the quality and the value of merchandise .In

2000, the year in which International business was started; Montex fabrics Ltd. concentrated

all its strengths and resources in developing a wide range of knitwear for the international

market.

Vision & mission of the project

The mission and vision of Montex fabrics Ltd. is to manufacture and deliver high

quality readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. The core objective is to attain and

enhance customer satisfaction by providing on time delivery of desired quality readymade

garments and also to increase efficiency of workforce.

To attain these objectives, the management of Montex fabrics Ltd. has decided to

adopt the following-

To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the

organization.

By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee.

To collect customer‘s feedback regularly to know about their conception about

their company and to take timely appropriate action.

To reduce the percentage of wastage / rejection minimum by 2% per annum‘s

implement and monitor ISO 9001:2000 quality management system within the

organization.

7

Jaydebpur

Chandra Chaurasta

Bi-pass

Nayapare

Station

road

Abdullahpur

Air port

Banani

konabari

Factory

8

WPT

Security Room E

TP

Ground floor

Finishing

1st floor

Fabric store

2nd

floor

Account section

3rd

floor

Lab section

5th

floor

Ground floor

Dyeing section

1st floor

Dyeing floor

2nd

floor

Store

3rd

floor

Winding section

4th

floor

Knitting section

5th

floor

Printing section

Yarn dyeing

&

Finishing

Boiler

3 Store

Building

For

Security

Dyeing section

Finishing section

Inspection

Sewing section

Cutting section

Switer section

Printing section

9 store

building

Finishing

Marchensd

ing

Packing

Boiler, generat

or ETP

Factory main gat

North South

west

Ea

st

9

10

Organizational structure:

Managing Director

Director

Knitting division Dyeing division

Production manager Asst. General Manager

Knitting Master Asst. manager

Q.C Supervisor fitter Sr.P.O

Operator Executive

Helper supervisor

Sr. Operator

Operator

Helper

11

Section – wise manpower

Department Manpower

Knitting section 90

Knit Dyeing 170

Garments section 5000( above )

Power generator boiler and utility 89

Inventory / store keeper 23

Administration 73

Security 50

Batch section 16

Yarn dyeing 94

Finishing 185

Lab 14

Q.C 24

Others 180

Total 6008

Knitting section

Knitting manager 1

Knitting master 1

Supervisor 2

Q.C 2

Fitter man 2

Operator 78

Cleaner 4

Total 90

Batch selection section

(Both general and shifting)

Batch selection section Man power

Batch incharge 2

Supervisor 2

Sewing operator 4

Helper 8

Total 16

Knit Dyeing section


AGM 1

Sr. manager 1

Manager 2

Production officer 4

Incharge 4

Supervisor 4

12

Sr, m/c operator 4

m/c operator 50

Helper 100

Total 170

Yarn dyeing section


AGM 1

Sr. manager 1

Manager 1

Production officer 1

Supervisor 2

m/c operator 44

Helper 44

Total 94

Finishing section (yarn and knit dyeing)

Spo 2

Finishing executive 8

Sr.operator 10

Operator 84

Helper 72

Cleaner 9

Total 185

Lab section

Manager 1

Lab incharge 2

QC 4

Lab asst. 7

Total 14

Quality control section

Q.C incharge 4

Technician 8

Q.C asst. 12

Total 24

13

Power generator boiler and utility

Power 12

Generator 15

Boiler 12

Utility 50

Total 89

Inventory

Store manager 2

Store keeper(dyeing, knitting , garments) 5+4+12=21

Total 23

Administration

Chairman 1

Managing director 1

Merchandiser 42

Purchase 9

Accounts 11

Commercial 3

Computer 6

Total 73

Management system:

Buyer sample is send to G.M or merchandising manager.

Marching is done under lab manager.

Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing manager.

Sample is send to the buyer for approval.

Approved sample is returned and taken as STD. sample for bulk production.

Dyeing manager gives responsibilities to asst. dyeing manager.

Then shift incharge with the supervisors start bulk production.

On line and off line quality check is done by lab incharge and asst. dyeing manager.

After dyeing asst. manager (finishing) controls the finishing process with the

supervision of shift inchargr.

Finally G.M checks the result with dyeing manager and decision is taken for delivery.

Shift change for worker:

A shift = 8.0 am to 8.0 pm

B shift = 8.0 pm to 8 am

But offices time 9.0 am to 5.0 pm

14

Responsibilities of shift incharge:

Over all supervision of production both dyeing and finishing.

Batch preparation and pH check.

Dyes and chemical requisition, issue and check.

Write fabric loading and loading time form machine.

Programmed making, sample checking, color matching.

Control the supervisors, operators, asst. operators and helpers of dyeing machine.

And also other work when it is required by top level management.

Job description:

Title: asst. manager

Dept/section: dyeing and finishing

Report to: manager.

Job summary:

After having the work order, prepares production plan.

To execute and follow up the plan along with quality conformation.

To face various difficulties of production and overcome them.

Inspecting the material for conformation to buyer requirements.

Job description:

Title: shift incharge

Dept/section: asst. dyeing manager

Jobs summary:

To execute the plan given by asst. dyeing master.

Organizing personnel under him.

Control the supervisors, operators, asst. operators and helpers of dyeing machine.

Checking of shade match.

Remarks:

The manpower management system of montex fabric ltd. Is will arranged. Every officers &

stuffs are responsible for their duty. But there are only three textile engineers in the industry

manager (dyeing), manager (lab), and R&D officer. It is not sufficient for smooth production.

More technical people are required.

15

16

KNITTING HISTORY:

1758: Jedediah strut, the inventor of the Double knit (rechts- rechts) technique. This

invention refers to an attachment for the hand knitting frame, which become world famous

under the name Derby rib m/c.

1798: Monsieur Decroix arranges the needles radially into a corona, which rotates and thus

moves the needles one after the other through the knitting stages. The circular knitting frame

is born.

1805: Joseph Marie jacquard presented his control apparatus for shed building on weaving

looms in Lyon. It is not clear as to when jacquard started getting interested in the

problems of the knitting industry after his success in the weaving filed. But today we do

encounter the jacquard device in different vitiations on knitting m/cs for the same purposes:

individual movement of knitting and transfer needles, sinker or guide needles for patterning.

1847: Matthew Townsend obtains a patent for his invention of the latch needle. A new epoch

in the knitting technique begins. With the help of these needles stitch formation become

easier, because the press was on longer necessary. The result was simplification of the

mechanism, increase in production speeds, and reduction of costs.

1850: the circular knitting m/c has been developed from the English circular knitting frame. It

was initially equipped with stationary bearded needles in vertical position. Larer on, it was

built with latched needles, which can be individually moved this is characteristic for a

circular knitting m/c.

1852: Teodor Groz.opend his workshop in Ebingen in the swabin alb and Ernst beckert

started naking needles in Chemnitz. Both of them wanted to assist the manufacturers of

knitted stocking by presenting them with needles, which would not get bent or broken. This

meant that the measles were no longer made from iron but from steel. Today the concern

Groz Beckert delivers exactly adapted needles for every kind of knitting m/c.

1878: D. Griswold gets a patent for a circular knitting m/c, which can produce plain or ribbed

fabric tubes in any desired distribution. The vertical cylinder needles are enhanced by

horizontal dial needles also individually moveable in radial slots. This leads for the first time

to two new denotions small rib m/c and large rib m/c.

1910: the firm Robert Walter Scott in Philadelphia was granted a patent for ―interlock fabric‖

The interlock fabric is a double faced fabric composed of two crossed double knit fabric.

1918: The first double cylinder, small circular knitting m/c with a double hook needle and

sliders (needle pushers) was built in English by the firm Wildt

.

1920: besides flat knitting m/cs, increasing use is made of circular knitting m/cs for the

fabrication of color parented fabrics. This is done with the help of yarn changer devices and

needle selection via pattern wheels and punched tapes made from steel or paper.

1935: after the production of circular sinker wheel m/cs was srarted in 1906, the firm Mayer

& Cie. Began producing circular knitting m/cs. Mayer & Cie. Introduced mass line

production of these m/cs in 1939.

17

1946: after this period notable further developments were made in circular knitting with

regard to higher performance and new products as a result of an increase in feeder numbers, a

raise in the production speeds and the use pf new needle technologies. The old pinion feed

wheel units were replaced by new yarn delivery devices like tape feeders and measuring

meters with yarn reserve for smooth fabrics and knit patterns as well as storage feeders fore

jacquards. These new devices have increasingly taken over the control and monitoring of

yarn delivery. Such peripheral equipment placed on high speed circular knitting m/cs and

fabric quality.

1963: the era the electronics begins at the international textile m/cry exhibition ITMA

1963 in hanover. The first electronic needle selection is demonstrated by the firm morat on its

film- taper-controlled ―moratronik‖, with later on gets into serial production. Today a

computer is used for data storage and a dickered is the data carrier.

1967: the legendary OVJA36, which is probably world wide the most successful circular

knitting m/c so far, is exhibited at the ITMA in Basle. More than 7000 m/cs of this type were

built in the following years.

1987: the firm Mayer & Cie begins with the serial production of the PELANIT, a plain

(rechts- links) circular knitting m/c having a relative movement between needles and sinkers.

It will be producing more than 1000 m/cs till the ITMA 1991.

Modern circular knitting technology will be determined by increases in performance,

reductions in setting – up times and flexible utilization. The technical designer will have to

deal with this challenge now and in the future.

Knitting is the most common method of interloping and is second only to weaving as a

method of manufacturing textile structures. It is estimated that over seven million tons of

knitted goods are produced annually throughout the world. Although the unique capability of

knitting to manufacture shaped and form- fitting articles has been utilized for centuries,

modem technology has enabled knitted constructions in shaped and unshaped fabric form to

expand into a wide range of apparel, domestic and industrial end uses.

Knitted fabrics of a wide variety of types are presently enjoying unprecedented

consumer demand. In many end uses, where formerly woven fabrics held undisputed away,

knitted cloth has taken a commanding lead, while in those end uses where the knitted fabric

traditionally has been supreme, production advanced by leaps and bounds.

To most people, knitted fabric is somewhat of an unknown quantity. Few people can

distinguish it readily form woven fabrics fewer still have any conception how it is produced.

Understanding Textiles for a Merchandiser, By: Eng. Shah Alimuzzaman Belal, C.Text. ATI

(UK) pag: 223,324,325

Knitting:

Knitting is the method of making fabric by transforming continuous strands of

yarn into a series of interloping loops, each row of such loops forms the one immediately

preceding it.

Types of weft knitting m/c:

Circular knitting m/c

Flat bed knitting m/c

18

Main parts of circular knitting m/c:

1. Yarn feed guide

2. Latch needle

3. Holding down sinker

4. Needle cylinder

5. Needle retaining spring

6. Needle operating cams

7. Cylinder driving wheel

8. Cylinder driving gear

9. Cylinder driving pinion attached to the main shaft

10. Sinker cam top

11. Sinker operation cams which form a raised track operating in the racesl of the sinker

12. Sinker trick ring which is simple and directly attached to the outside top of the needle

cylinder thus causing the sinkers to revolve in unison with the needle.

13. Cam box

14. Cam plate

15. Creel: Creel is used to place the cone.

16. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn.

17. Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.

18. VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.

19. Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.

20. Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the m/c stops when any problem occurs.

21. Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.

22. Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric

23. Fixation feeder: These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting

M/c to feed the yarn at specific finger.

24. Rethom: These devise are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting m/c

Needle:

The fundamental element in construction of knitted fabrics is the knitting needle.

Needle is the main knitting tools and also the principal element of m/c knitting.

Classification of needle

1. The spring-bearded needles

2. The latch needles

3. The compound needles.

According to the Butt position Latch needle are four types:-

One butt latch needle

Two butt latch needle

Three butt latch needle

Four butt latch needle

19

Sinker: SINKER

This is secondary primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual

and collective action approximate at right angles from the hook side between adjoing

needles.

Cam:

Cams are the devices which convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable reciprocating

action for the needles or other elements.

Types of cam: two type of cam

1. Engineering cam Knit cam

2. Knitting cam Miss cam

Tuck cam

20

Circular knitting m/c (Construction and working principle)

1. Side-creel (Tube-type): Keep & guide yarn packages to yarn feeding rollers

2. Yarn feeding system: Control the fabric weight by changing loops length

3. Bobbin table: Fixed with yarn feeding devices

4. Driving motor

(5 HP, 7.5 HP)

5. Bed assembly: Rotation of cylinder

6. Head assembly : Rotation of dial

7. Lubricator : Supply of lubricants

8. Knitting head (Cam/needle/yarn guide): Core knitting compositions for producing

the various kinds of knit structures

9. Take-up assembly: Take down the fabric tube with constant tension

10. M/c controller: Control box and panel for controlling dynamic

Force of m/c

11. Safety guard: Protection of workers from rotating Take-up device

12. Creel

21

12

3

1 2

4

6

5

7

8 10

9 11

Figure: schematic diagram of weft knitting machine (circular knitting m/c)

22

Main parts of flat bed m/c:

- Carrage

-Relling

-Feeder

-Guide bar

-Top tensioner

-Side tensioner

-Operational butt

-Take up roller

-Brash

-Lace braces

Flat bed m/c

Needle of flat bed m/c:

Brand name: ORGAN (CHINA)

Terms and definition of knitting:

Course – a horizontal row of loops formed by the needles during one knitting cycle

Wale – a vertical column of loops formed by a single needle

Loop: it is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously basic

unit. Knitted loops are arranged in rows and columns roughly equivalent to the warp and weft

of woven structures termed ―Wales‖ and ―courses‖ respectively

Stitch: the smallest dimensionally stable unit of al knitted fabric is stitch. It consists of a yarn

loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loop.

Stitch length: stitch length is a length of yarn which includes the needles the needle loop &

half the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger stitch length, the more extensible

& lighter the fabric & the poorer the cover, capacity & bursting strength.

Steps should be taken to change stitch length.

- Check the S.L of the m/c prevailing.

- Change the diameter of V. DLQ pulley.

- Set of the position of carriage.

- Set the speed of take- up roller

- Maintain the optimum yarn tension.

Stitch Density: Courses per inch (CPI) × Wales per inch (WPI)

M/c Gauge: a number of needles per unit length in the knitting m/c, measured as the number

of needles in one inch. This measure determines the number of Wales per unit length in the

knitted fabric

23

Organogram of Knitting Section:

AGM

Manager /Asst. Manager (Production & Plan)(02) Manager

(Technical)

Asst.Manager (01)

Sr. Executive (Production, Plan & Sample) (02)

Sr. Feeder/Feeder(07)

Executive / Jr. Executive (Prod. & Sample) (05)

Asst. Feeder(04)

Sr. Supervisor/Supervisor (06) Sample Supervisor (02)

Needle Man(03)

Sr. Operator/Operator (135) Sample Asst.(05)

Servicing Man(06)

Asst. Operator (33)

Servicing Helper(06)

Production Helper (21)

Manager / Asst. Manager (Store)(01)

Sr. Executive / Executive (02)

Jr. Executive (Yarn)(02) Jr. Executive (Grey Fabric)(03)

Store Asst.(Yarn)(03) Store Asst.(Grey Fabric)(07)

Loader (Yarn)(26) Batch Helper/Loader (35)

24

Duties & Responsibilities of Production manager:

* To collect order sheet from merchandiser

* To talk with knitting master for necessary m/c set up

* To collect the production accessories for production

* To discuss with AGM about overall production if necessary

* Any other assignment given by the authority.

Working Sequence of Knitting Section of Montex Fabrics Ltd.

Order sheet receiving From Merchandiser

Selecting of production parameter

Arranging of yarn

Testing of yarn

Arranging of selected m/c

Making a pre-production sample

Starting of bulk production after approval

Checking of grey fabric

Delivery of grey fabrics according to batch wise

25

Specification of circular knitting m\c:

No. of

m/c

M/C

Dia

M/C

Gauge

No. Of

Feeder

No. Of

Needle

M/C

Spec

Brand Origin

01 20‖ 24 60 1500 S/J Pailung Taiwan









10 34‘‘ 24 102 2544 S/J Pailung Taiwan








18 40‘‘ 24 120 3000 S/J Pailung Taiwan




22 36‖ 18 54 2040 Rib Pailung Taiwan

23 34‖ 20 48 2124 Fleece Pailung Taiwan

24 32‖ 18 64 1800×2 Rib/Int. Pailung Taiwan



27 34‖ 18 72 2544×2 Rib/Int. Pailung Taiwan.

28 32‖ 18 64 1800×2 Rib/Inte Pailung Taiwan



31 34‖ 24 72 2544×2 Rib / Int. Pailung Taiwan


33 19‖ 24 57 1440 S/J Unitex Singapore




37 19 24 57 1440 S/J Unitex Singapore

38 40‖ 20 120 1220/3000 H/J-S/J Unitex Singapore



41 40‖ 20 120 1728 Fleece Unitex Singapore



26




47 44‖ 16 80 2210 Rib Unitex Singapore

48 40‘‘ 19 84 3000×2 Rib/Int. Unitex Singapore

49 40‘‘ 18 84 3000×2 Rib/Int. Unitex Singapore

50 34‖ 24 72 3840/5100 Rib/Int. Unitex Singapore



53 40‘‘ 24 84 4500/6000 Rib/Int. Unitex Singapore



56 32‘‘ 18 66 3720/4824 Rib/Int. Unitex Singapore

57 28‘‘ 24 120 2856×2 Rib/Int Unitex Singapore

58 34‘‘ 24 108 5088 Interlock Unitex Singapore

59 36‖ 24 116 5400 Interlock Unitex Singapore

60 36‘‘ 36 116 5400 Interlock Unitex Singapore

61 16‖ 24 48 1212 S/J Fukahama Taiwan






67 21‖ 24 63 1584 Inter Fukahama Taiwan

68 38‖ 24 76 4260 Rib/Inte Fukahama Taiwan

69 22‖ 24 69 1656 S/J Mayer &

Cie

Germany

70 18‖ 33 57 1872 S/J Mayer &

Cie

Germany

71 24‖ 24 78 1800 S/J

Mayer &

Cie

Germany

72 20‖ 24 65 1512 S/J Mayer &

Cie

Germany

73 26‖ 24 84 1944 S/J Mayer &

Cie

Germany

74 30‖ 24 69 2268 S/J Mayer &

Cie

Germany

75 34‘‘ 18 72 1920 Rib Mayer &

Cie

Germany

76 30‖ 16 62 1510×2 Rib/Int. Mayer &

Cie

Germany

77 38‖ 20 114 2400 H/J-S/J Smart Taiwan

78 36‘‘ 20 108 2232 H/J-S/J Smart Taiwan

27

Specification of flat bed knitting m\c:

M/c no : 01-17

Brand name : SHIMA SEIKI

Country : Japan

Feeder : 2

Machine gauge : 14

Machine Width : 52‘‘

Total needle : 1680

Types of Knitting : One side

M/c no : 18-19

Brand name : SHIMA SEIKI

Country : Japan

Feeder : 4

Machine gauge : 14

Machine Width : 52‘‘

Total needle : 1680

Types of Knitting : Both Side

Raw materials for knitting:

Source of yarn for knitting:

1. Malwa Cotton Spinning Mills Ltd. (India)

2. Thermax Textile Mills Ltd. (TTML) Bangladesh

3. G Swadesh Mills Ltd (India)

4. Nahed Composite Textile Mills Ltd. (Bangladesh)

5. Supreme Texmart Ltd. (India)

6. V.P.L (Owsal Group) India

7. Arif Textile Mills Ltd. (Bangladesh)

8. Squire (Bangladesh)

9. R.S.W.M

10. Winsome

11. Chemma

12. GARG

13. GTN

14. Manal

15. Banif Spinning Mills Ltd. (Bangladesh)

16. TMSML

28

Name of Buyer:

1. Best Seller

2. Rex & Holm

3. Russel

4. Gebel

5. Nak Fashion

6. C House

7. Pimkie Chanter

8. Peak Apparces

9. Mondial

10. Gebal

11. Teama Group

12. Kappa

13. N.J.C (Robint) USA

14. Litano

15. P & C

16. Fruit of the Wom

17. Nalt

18. Tom Tailor

19. Mavi

20. Ferrari

Lycra: CREORA

Made in Korea

Type # H-100 (20D, 40D)

Type of yarn Count

Cotton 20S ,24

S, 26

S, 28

S, 30

S, 32

S, 34

S, 36

S

,40S, 45

S

Polyester 70D, 100D,150D

Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D

Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26

S

Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S, 26

S, 28

S

Cotton Mélange (100%) 24S, 26

S, 28

S

PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26

S, 28

S, 30

S

CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) 24S, 26

S, 28

S, 30

S

29

Name of product mix:

The product, which are available in knit dyeing floor are given below:

1. Single jersey / Single jersey with lycra.

2. Polo pique, Lacost (Single / Double).

3. Rib - (1x1), (2x2), (8x2), (9x2), (9x1).

4. Lycra Rib, Drop needle fabric.

5. Interlock.

6. Grey mélange.

7. Stripe (S/J, rib, interlock, grey mélange

Relation between G.S.M. & Yarn Count

For cotton / Blend / CVC fabric:-

S/J without Lycra -

Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count

110 – 120 40 S – 36

S

120 – 130 36 S - 32

S

130 – 140 32 S – 28

S

140 – 150 28 S

150 – 160 26 S

170 – 210 24 S

Rib without Lycra -


180 - 190 36 S - 32

S

190 - 200 30 S

200 - 215 28 S

215 - 230 26 S

230 - 250 24 S

250 - 300 24 S

Interlock without Lycra –

Lacost (S/L, D/L) without Lycra


180 – 190 30 S

190 – 210 28 S

210 – 230 26 S

230 – 250 26 S


200 – 220 34 S

220 – 230 32 S

230 – 250 30 S

250 – 300 26 S

30

40D Lycra Rib –

40D Lycra S/J –

FABRIC TYPES:

1) Single Jersey

a) Single jersey (Plain)

b) Single lacoste

c) Double lacoste

d) Fleece fabric

e) Single lacoste Half Feet Lycra

f) Single lacoste Full Feet Lycra

2) Double jersey

a) Rib fabric

i) 1x1 Rib

ii) 2x1 Rib

iii) 2x2 Rib

iv) Lycra Rib

v) Flat Back Rib

b) Interlock Fabric

i) Plain interlock

ii) Design Interlock

iii)Drop needle interlock

3) Back Brush.


230 – 240 32 S

240 – 250 30 S

250 – 280 26 S

280 – 300 24 S


180 – 190 34 S

190 – 210 32 S

210 – 220 30 S

220 – 240 28 S

240 – 250 26 S

31

4) Collar and Cuff

i) Plain Collar or Solid collar

ii) Shaving Collar.

iii) Jacquard Collar.

iv) Tipping Collar.

v) Race Collar.

vi) Stripe Collar.

5) Different decorative single and double jersey fabric.

Some Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics:

- Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.

- Finished G.S.M.

- Yarn count

- Stitch length

- Types of yarn (combed or carded)

- Diameter of the fabric.

Design analysis:

General Design Discussion:

Here,

= Knit loop

= Tuck loop

1 2 3 4 = Miss loop

1 2 1 2

Cam set up:

1

2

3

4

Needle arrangement: - 1 2 3 4/ 1 2 3 4//

32

This fabric can by produced by two tuck cam

Optimum cam set up: 1

2

Optimum needle: - 1 2 1 2/ 1 2 1 2//

In MONTEX FABRICS LTD. for double jersey m/c two Truck cam are generally

used to produce Rib, Interlock Thermal, Mini-Thermal, Waffle, Mini-Waffle etc fabric

Different Fabric with Structure, Notation diagram & Cam setting

Fabric: Single jersey

Notation Diagram

Plain structure

Cam Setting Arrangement

∆ ∆ ∆ ∆

∆ ∆ ∆ ∆

33

Needle Arrangement

1

2

N.B: 1 = One butt needle

= Knit stitch 2 = Two butt needle

∆ = Knit cam

Inter lock Rib

D D

C C

D = Dial

C = Cylinder

Fabric: 1 1 Rib


∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆

D

∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆

∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆

C ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆

Rib structure

Rib structure

D = Dial

C = Cylinder

34

Needle Arrangement

HL

HL

L

LS

11

11

22

22

N.B:

∆ = Knit cam

H =High butt needle

L = Low butt needle

1 = One butt needle

2 = Two butt needle

Fabric: 2 2 Rib


∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆

D

∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆

∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆

C

∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆

35

Needle Arrangement

L H

L S

11

11

22

22

N.B:

∆ = Knit cam

H = High butt needle

L= Low butt needle

C= Cylinder

D= Dial

1 = One butt needle

2 = Two butt needle

Fabric: Plain Interlock


∆∆ ―― ∆∆ ――

―― ∆∆ ―― ∆∆

―― ∆∆ ―― ∆∆

∆∆ ―― ∆∆ ――

Interlock structure

36

Needle Arrangement

H

H

L

L

1. 1 1

2

2

N.B:

∆ = Knit cam ― = Miss cam

H = High butt needle C = Cylinder

L = Low butt needle D = Dial

1= One butt needle

2 = Two butt needle

Single Lacoste:

Cam Setup: K K K T K

K T K K K

Knit cam (K)

Tuck (T) cam

Double Lacoste:

Cam Setup:

T T K K K

K K K T T

Pique:

Cam Setup: T T K K

K K T T

37

Some samples are given in below:

Name of the fabric Sample

1. single jersey ( cotton):

Face side shows Wales‘s wise straight

lines, on the other hand, backside shows

course wise wavy lines

2. single jersey slub

3. F.F. lycra Single jersey

4. Single jersey stripe

5. Single Lacoste

6. 1× 1 Rib:

Both sides of the fabric look similar

7. 2 ×1 Rib

8. 2× 2 Rib

9. Interlock:

Both sides are of similar look but less

stretchable than rib

10. Interlock stripe:

11. pique:

Face side looks like honeycomb and

backside shows wale‘s wise straight

lines

12. Fleece

13. Fleece (Terry)

14. Thermal

38

Methods of increasing production:

By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased

By increasing m/c speed:

Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be

increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this

high speed.

By increasing the number of feeder:

If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of

courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.

By using m/c of higher gauge:

The more the m/c gauge, the more the production is. So by using m/c of higher gauge

production can be increased.

By imposing other developments:

a) Using creel-feeding system.

b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn

damage.

c) Using yarn feed control device.

d) Using auto lint removal.

Production calculation:

Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:

Production/shift in meter:

Fabric width in meter:

countYarn

mmSLNeedleofNoFeederofNoRPM

80.3527

)(..

100/

.

100/

.

cmWales

knittinginusedNeedlesofnoTotal

cmWales

walesofnoTotal

39

GMS Calculation:

CPI × WPI × Stitch Length (mm) × 0.91

Yarn Count

CPI= Course Per Inch

WPI= Wells Per Inch

Some points are needed to maintain for high quality fabric:

M/cs are separated from m/c to m/c by using poly bag or fabric.

Knitting floor should be cleaned for high quality fabric

Operator should be skilled.

Good quality fabric depends on good quality yarn.

Before production m/c is oiled and greased properly

G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions must be controlled.

Grey Fabrics are checked by 4- point system

Changing of GSM:

Major control by QAP pulley.

Minor control by stitch length adjustment.

Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley

moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse

direction G.S.M will increase.

Other m/c in Knitting Section:

01. Gray Inspection M/c, Brand : UZU fabric inspection m/c

02. Electric Balance for Fabric Weight.

03. Electric Balance for GSM check.

Production Parameter:

M/c Diameter;

M/c rpm (revolution per minute);

No. of feeds or feeders in use;

M/c Gauge;

Count of yarn;

Required time (M/C running time);

M/c running efficiency

40

Relationship between knitting parameter:

Stitch length GSM

If stitch length fabric width

If m/c gauge fabric width

If yarn count fabric width

If shrinkage then fabric width GSM and Wales per inch.

For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.

Effect of stitch length on color depth:

If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of

fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is

adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller

Factors that should be change in case of fabric design on quality change:

a) Cam setting

b) Set of needle

c) Size of loop shape

Faults &Remedies of knitting fabrics

Knitting faults:

Faults in circular knitting production can be caused in various ways and quite a few of

them cannot be related to just one cause. The following explanations are expected to be

helpful in trying to locate the causes of these faults easier.

Reasons of fabric faults:

- yarn manufacturing faults

- fabric manufacturing faults

- Fabric processing faults –dyeing, printing, finishing faults.

Sources of fabric faults:

The sources of faults could be (in circular knitting m/c, 80% faults comes from yarn)

- Faults in yarn and the yarn package.

- Yarn feeding and yarn feed regulator.

- M/c setting and pattern defects

- M/c maintenance

- Climatic conditions in the knitting plant.

41

Fabric faults:

Knitted fabric faults are very different in nature and appearance and are often

superimposed. The most common faults are:

- broken ends , holes or cracks

- drop stitch

- cloth fall out or pressed off stitches

- snagging or snags

- tuck or double loop or stitches

- Bunching up

- Vertical stripes

- Horizontal stripes

- Color fly or colored tinges

- Distorted stitches tinges

- Distorted stitches or deformed or titled loops

1. Holes:

Holes are the result of cracks or yarn breakages. During stitch formation the yarn had

already broken in the region of the needle hook. Depending on the knitted structure, yarn

count, m/c gauge and course density, the holes has different sizes. This size can therefore

only be estimated if the comparable final appearance of a comparable fabric is known.

Possible causes:

yarn parameters

high yarn irregularity

Incorrect yarn input tension setting; yarn running-in tension is too high.

poorly lubricated yarns

weak places in yarn, which break during stitch formation

knots, slubs etc

yarn is too high

if the yarn is trappet between the cheek taper and closing latch

- Yarn damage

tool small stitches

- Difficulty in casting off of the stitches

Relation between cylinder and dial loop not correct yarn feeder badly set; defective

knitting elements.

2. Drop stitches:

These are the result of a defective needle. They also occur when a yarn is not properly fed

during stitch formation, i.e. not properly laid –in the needle hooks. These are the unlinked

knitted loops.

Possible causes:

inaccurate insertion of the yarn into the needle hooks;

Broken needle hook.

Due to high yarn twist and low fabric take down tension the knitted loop could fall

out of the hook;

Improper setting of the yarn feed angle i.e. badly set yarn feeder

The yarn is not caught by the needle hook, example – lower yarn feeder and high yarn

vibrations.

42

Yarn feeder wrongly threaded in.

a. Dial loop length nit properly related to cylinder loop length; the loop jumps out of the

needle hook.

b. Bad take –up.

c. Very dry material.

d. Insufficient yarn tension.

3. Cloth fall-out or pressed-off stitches:

It is an area consisting of drop stitches lying side by side. They can occur either when

a yarn is laid-out or when it breaks without any immediate connection. Cloth fall-out can

occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn

feeder and removes the yarn out of the hooks of the following needles.

Possible causes:

Yarn breaks before the yarn feeder.

Yarn package winding faults, poor package build up.

Fibre fly block the yarn guides, feeders etc.

4. Needle marks or vertical stripes:

Vertical stripes can be observed as longitudinal gaps in the fabric. The space between

adjacent wales is irregular and the closed appearance of the fabric is broken up in an

unsightly manner. Vertical stripes and gaps in the fabric are often the result of a meager

setting, i.e. the yarn count selected. Needles are bent, damaged, do not move uniformly

smooth, come from different suppliers or are differently constructed.

Possible causes:

Twisted or bent needle hooks.

Stiff latches and needles.

Incorrect closing of the hook by the latch.

Heavily running needles.

Damaged needle latch and needle hooks.

Damaged dial and cylinder.

Damages on other knitting elements.

5. Sinker Mark

Causes:

When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new

loop as a result sinker mark comes.

If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.

Remedies:

Sinker should be changed.

6. Star Mark

Causes:

Yarn tension variation during production.

Buckling of the needle latch.

Low G.S.M fabric production.

Remedies:

Maintain same Yarn tension during production.

Use good conditioned needles

43

7. Oil stain

Causes:

When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a

line.

Remedies:

Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.

Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.

8. Pin hole

Causes:

Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.

Remedies:

Change the needle

9. Bairre:

A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width

wise) stripe(s).

Causes:

This fault comes from yarn fault.

If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.

Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.

During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded

yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.

In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.

Remedies:

We can use this fabric in white color.

10. Fly:

Causes:

In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due

to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric

surface tightly during knit fabric production.

Remedies:

Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.

By cleaning the floor continuously.

By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.

Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.

11. Yarn contamination

Causes:

If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,

If lot, count mixing occurs.

Remedies:

By avoiding lot, count mixing.

Fault less spinning.

44

Yarn Faults:

Neps.

Slubs.

Yarn count.

Thick/Thin place in yarn.

Hairiness.

Remark:

The Montex Fabrics Ltd.produce best quality fabric. They use best quality yarn to

produce fabric the worker are very conceous to the parameter of knitting.

Comparison between different fabrics :( s/j, Fleece, Terry)

45

Comparison between different fabrics:( Interlock, Rib, Inter- Rib)

Source: FALMAC Pronitt Series

46

47

Batching:

Batching preparation is the process where visually inspected grey fabrics

are divided into deferent batches with reasonable quantity in order to make them

suitable for the further operation.

Function or purpose of batch section:

- To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.

- To perform the grey inspection.

- Turn the grey fabric if require.

- To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following

criteria –

Order sheet (Received from buyer)

Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)

M/C capacity

M/C available

Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PET, PC, CVC)

Other

- To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.

- To keep records for every fabrics before dying.

Proper batching criteria:

- To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.

- To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage

time.

- To keep the no of batch as less as possible for same shade.

- To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

48

Process sequence of batch preparation:

Process sequence of batch preparation receive batch card from grey in-charge

Make the priority as per dyeing plan

Take one specific batch card

Read the batch card for own understanding

Check the availability of fabric

Take required quantity of body fabric from ware – house

Make required mp, of rope maintaining equal length

Take collar/ cuff as per size, keep the total weight

Distribute the collar/ cuff or rib in each rope equally ensure equal length

Stitch the fabric

Write down the weight against roll no, in the back side of the batch card

Write the total weight in batch card

Put signature and date

Fill up the production report form

49

M/Cs in batch section: M/c no : 01

Machine Name : Turning m/c

Origin : Local

Capacity : 10 ton to 16 ton per day

Inspection m/c:

No. of m/c: two (2)

M/c name : Inspection m/c

Brand Name :

Origin : Local

Capacity :

Common Knitting faults:

0. Barren or stripe.

1. Press off.

2. Miss stitch / drop stitch.

3. Needle mark.

4. Sinker mark.

5. Oil stain.

6. Crease mark/ edge mark.

7. Holes.

8. Excessive slubs and entanglement in the fabric.

9. Spatiality.

10. Broken needle.

11. Pin hole.

12. Tight course.

13. Missing yarn.

14. Fine yarn.

15. Coarse yarn.

16. Colored fly or soiled fly etc.

50

51

Final lab Lab dip:

Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying

dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without help of ―DATA COLOR‖

Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the

dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task

before bulk production.

Organogram

Manager

Lab In-charge

Supervisor

Senior technician

Technician

Operator

Helper

Duties & Responsibilities of Production manager:

To collect order sheet from merchandiser

To talk with knitting master for necessary m/c set up

To collect the production accessories for production

To discuss with AGM about overall production if necessary

Any other assignment given by the authority.

Working Sequence of lab dyeing:

Sample In (Fabrics)

Check & note the Lot no, Style no, Item no& Collar

Sample Preparation

52

Run the test

Physical test Wet lab

Color Fastness to wash

Bursting strength

Pilling Color Fastness to washing

Crocking

Evaluate the sample Pre-production Sample Final sample

Report Making Test Test

Prepared the report prepared the report

Pass Fail

Deliver Refinish Pass Fail Pass Fail

Need to test again Go for the final Refinish

Need to test again

Dimensional stability.

Prepare the sample

Wash the sample according to buyer method.

Tumble dry

Keep the sample flat in the conditioned temperature

at least four hours before, after measurement.

Measure the sample

Prepared the report

Pass Fail

Ready to delivery Refinish

Need to test again

53

Space for

Preparation

Iron

Test m/c

Digital

PH meter Wash room

Hardness

Tester

PH tester

Light fastness room

Dat

a co

lor

Mac

hin

e

Lab manager table

T

able

T

able

Bas

in Dyeing m/c

Power

Sample

dyeing

m/c

Washi

ng m/c

Tumbl

e

dryer Dryer Washing

m/c

Washing m/c Dyeing

m/c

Count

tester m/c

Digital

Rubbing

Manual

rubbing

Visual

rubbing

Twist

tester m/c

Perspiration

tester

Gray

scale

Pilling

tester

Digital

printin

g m/c

Digital

balance

Dia

m/c

Dark

room

Lig

ht

fast

nes

s m

/c

54

M/c Speciation: LABORATORY MACHINERIES WITH ITS SPECIFICATION:

1. M/c type: Dryer

M/c name: Rapid Dryer

Brand name: Rapid Dysin

Country: China

2. M/c type: washing

M/c name: wascatar

Brand name: SDL Atlas

Country: China

3. M/c type: washing

M/c name: wascatar

Brand name: SDL Atlas

Country: China

4. M/c type: Dryer

M/c name: Trumble Dryer

Country: China

55

5. M/c type:Dyeing m/c

Brand name: STARLET

Country: China


Brand name: STARLET

Country: China


Brand name: STARLET

Country: China


Brand name: Ossilator

Country: Taiwan

56


Brand name: Ossilator

Country: Taiwan

10. M/c type: Dyeing m/c

Brand name: Rapid Dyeing m/c

Country: China



Country: China



Country: China

57

13. M/c type: BALANCE

Country: China

14. M/c type: Pipet

M/c name: Digital Pipet

Country: koria

15. M/c type: Dryer

M/c name: Rapid Dryer

Brand name: Rapid Dysin

Country: China

16. M/c type: Pilling test m/c

Brand name: Paramount

Country: Koria

58

17. M/c type: Pilling Light Source


Country: Koria

18. M/c type:Prespiration test m/c


Country: Koria

19. M/c type:Twits tester m/c

Country: China

20. M/c type: Count tester m/c

Country: China

59

21. M/c type: Rubbing test m/c

Brand name: digital

Country: China

23. m/c type: PH meter

Country: Koria

22. M/c type: Rubbing test m/c

Brand name:

Country: China

60

24. M/c type: computer + spectrophotometer

25. M/c type: light fastness m/c

Brand name: Q.Sun

Country: Koria / japan

61

Raw material

Available Stock Solutions:

Red – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)

Yellow – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)

Blue - 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common).

Preparation:

To prepare 0.1% Stock solution, it is necessary to mix 0.1 g dye and 100 cc water.

To prepare 0.5% Stock solution, 0.5 g dye stuff is mixed with 100 cc water.

To prepare 1.0% & 2.0% Stock solution similar procedure is followed.

To prepare 10% Stock solution of Soda ash, 10 g Soda is mixed with 100 cc water.

Depth of shade:

Montex Fabrics Ltd. Produces 0.1% to 5% shade for the goods.

2.0%for deep shade.

1.0%for medium shade.

0.5%for deep shade.

0.1%for light shade.

Montex Fabrics Ltd. produces 0.5% to 5% shade for the goods.

Amount of salt soda for Remazol dyes

Percent 0-0.1 .1-0.5 .5-1.0 1.0-2.0 2.0-3.0 3.0-5.0 >5.0

Salt 20 20-25 25-40 40-50 50-60 60-80 80+

Soda 5 5-7 7-10 10-13 13-15 15-20 20+

Calculation:

Usually following calculations are followed –

Recipe % ×Sample Weight

Dye Solution = (cc).

Stock solution %

Recipe % ×Liquor)

Salt = (gram per liter).

1000

Recipe % × 100 ×Liquor)

Soda Solution = (cc).

(1000×Stock solution %)

62

Sample calculation for 0.5% shade

Sample wt. = 5 mg

Material liquor ratio = 1: 10

Total liquor (5 10) = 50 cc

5 0.5%

Dye solution required = = 2.5 cc

1 %

50 25

Salt solution required = = 6.25 cc

20 10

50 10

Soda ash solution required = = 2.5 cc

20 10

Water required {50 - (2.5 + 6.25 + 2.5)} = 38.75 cc

Sequence of dyeing 100% cotton fabric in lab:

Select bleach fabric ( 5 gm)

Recipe making

Select dyes

Dyeing

Hot wash

Neutralization

Soaping

Cold wash

Drying

Match with standard sample

Yes

Bulk production

63

Sequence of dyeing polyester /cotton fabric in lab:

Select bleach fabric (5 gm)

Carbonizing of cotton part

Fabric weight measure after carbonized part

Recipe making

Select dyes

Dyeing of polyester part

Matching dyed polyester part with std.

Yes

Hot wash

Reduction clearing

Soaping

Neutralization

Cold wash

Dyeing of cotton part

Hot wash

Soaping

Neutralization

Cold wash

Drying

Total sample match with standard sample

Yes

Bulk production

Note: cellouse fibre dissolves in 70% H2SO4 acid solution when treated at 700c for 10′

64

Quality management system:

Q.C

On-line Off-line

Online tests are:

1. For Pretreatment test

Absorbency test

Fabric width measure

Weightness test

Water quality test

PH test

2. For dyeing

Dyed fabric.

Shade matching check

PH check

Wash fastness check

3. Machine check

Off-line tests are

1. Physical test

GSM of fabric

Smoothness of fabric

Pilling test

Shrinkage test

Spirality test

2. chemical test

Color fastness

65

Dying with sample

Recipe Sample

16-0435 Tex

Yellow 4 GL=0.8%

Yellow MERL=0.76%

T/Blue-HFG=0.088%

40/10

Orange

Orange ME2RL=1.5%

Yellow MERL=0.75%

Black B=0.0026%

50/12

Red

Orange MERL=2.3%

Red 4GL=3%

Black B =0.022%

70/17

Green

Yellow-4GL=6.4%

YellowMERL=0.36%

T/BlueETQ=4.8%

80/20

Yellow

YellowRR=2.6%

Blue KHL=0.012%

32/8

Black

yellow MERL=1.5%

Red 4BL=1.1%

Black-Agr=5.2%

80/20

Khak-1

Yellow-RR=0.76%

Red-RR=0.26%

Nevy-RR=0.46%

40/10

Turqis

Yellow-RR=0.17%

Red-RR=0.038%

Yellow-RR=0.6%

66

LAB DIP DEVELOPMENT DEFINITION:

Lab Dip Development means the sample which is dyed according to buyer‘s

requirements (similar shade and so on). Depending on lab dip development sample

dyeing and bulk production is dyeing planning done.

OBJECTIVE OF LAB DIP:

The main objectives in lab are as follows:

To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.

To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectroflash.

To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.

Finally approved lab dip (Grade:ABC)

DEVELOPMENT OF LAB DIP:

Receiving standard swatch

↓

Spectrophotometer reading

↓

Recipe start up software

↓

Start up recipe given

↓

Manual dispersion (pipatting)

↓

Pot dyeing

↓

Unload

↓

Normal wash

↓

Acid wash

↓

Hot wash

↓

Cold Rinsing

↓

Drying

67

Instrumental Color matching Process

Spectrophotometer flow Chart:

Spectrophotometric measurent

Colour fastness is usually assessed separately with respect to:

It is an alternative to the visual method of assessment by Grey Scale. The

colour of the specimen which has been subjected to the colour fastness test

and the colour of an original specimen are measured instrumentally by

spectrophotometric measurement.

The CIE LAB coordinates for lightness L*, chroma C* and hue H* for both

specimens are measured.

Triangle shade

Initial recipe

Laboratory dyeing

Use L*, a*, b* to match

OK

Production dyeing

Use L*, a*, b* to match

Recipe correction

Not matched

Production correction

Not matched

Input database

History of the lab

Recipe Prediction calculated by CCM

Or calculated by smart shade library

Finished

OK

68

The total colour difference value AE* which is the function of AL *, AC*, AH

* are calculated and converted to a Grey, Scale by means of a series of

equations or by the following table

Table for Grey Scale Colour Change Step Values according to AATCC Evaluation

Procedure 7

Colour fastness is a term that describes the propensity of an article to

Change or lose colour when treated in a certain way

Functions of spectrophotometer: 1. Color difference

2. Metamerism

3. Pass/fail operation

4. Fastness rating

5. Shade library

6. Cost comparison

7. Color match production

8. Reflectance curve.

COLOUR MEASUREMENT OF STANDARD SAMPLE: Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as

possible. Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard sample with the

standard one is compulsory. Color measurement can be done by two methods-

69

In manual method, the std. sample‘s color is measured by comparing it with

previously produced samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample

with which the color of the std. matched, that sample‘ color recipe is being taken for

shade matching. This method‘s accuracy completely depends on the vision of the

person related to it but person must be needed gather experience about color

matching.

The instrumental method is more reliable if it is operated accurately to do the work of

color measurement. ―Spectrophotometer‖ interfaced with a PC is used for shade

matching. This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of

light at different wave length. When the standard sample is being subjected under

spectrophotometer, then the instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic

colors within the tolerance limit of color difference. In this way, color measurement

of the standard sample is carried out for the purpose of shade matching.

Common test which are tested in Montex Fabric Ltd. Lab:

Adjacent Fabrics Single fibre adjacent fabric -

It should be plain weave, medium mass per unit area and free from dyes or

fluorescent whitening agents.

Generally two single fibre adjacent fabrics are attached to specimen. The first

of fabric shall be of the same kind of fibre as the material under test and the

second shall be that indicated or as otherwise stated.

Color Measurement

Manual Method Instrumental Method

70

Multifibre adjacent fabrics

Assessment of Colourfastness and Staining

The result of colourfastness test is rated by-

Visually comparing the difference in colour or contrast between the untreated

and treated specimens with the differences represented by the scale. Gray scle

for Colour change is being used for colour change assessment.

Visually comparing the difference in colour or the contrast between the

stained and unstained adjacent fabrics with the differences represented by

scale. Gray sacle for staining is being used for staining assessment.

The evaluation is done under specific lighting and viewing conditions.

71

Conditions of Viewing The source under which the comparison is made can beD65 - daylight

(Preferred in European market)

D75 - daylight (Preferred in American Market)

A - Incandescent

CWF - Cool white fluorescent

UV - Ultra Violet

The specimen should be placed on a flat, uniform surface having no

distortions.The surrounding field shall me matte surface and uniform grey.

Dark Room

72

ASSESSING COLOUR FASTNESS

Conditions of viewing

• The specimen plane is at 45° angle to horizontal. The light is incident upon the

surfaces at an angle of approximately 45°, and the direction of viewing is

approximately along the perpendicular to the plane of the surfaces.

For assessment, a piece of the original and the tested specimen, or the undyed

and stained adjacent fabrics, are arranged side by side in the same plane and

oriented in the same direction.

If test specimen is thin then it should be backed with number of layers of clean

test cloth so as to avoid effect of other backing.

For optimum precision, the areas of contrast to be compared shall be

approximately of same size and shape; if necessary; this can be achieved by

the use of mask of neutral grey color.

Colour fastness to Washing

Evaluates the colorfastness to Laundering of textiles which are expected to withstand

frequent or accelerated laundering.

Equipment: Launder meter

73

74

Conditions of Viewing

Interpretation of the grades The end result of any colorfastness test is a grade given to the tested sample

Grade 5- NO CHANGE

Grade 4 - SLIGHT CHANGE

Grade 3 - NOTICEABLE CHANGE

Grade 2 - CONSIDERABLE CHANGE

Grade 1 - SEVERE CHANGE

Failures and improvements Colour fastness to washing:

WHY FAILURE?

The dyes are not fixed well.

Improper quality dyes used.

Bad dyeing / Bad printing.

Improper finishing / improper curing.

75

HOW TO IMPROVE?

Better selection of dyestuffs and dye methods and process controls are

suggested to enhance the colorfastness performance. Color-stripping

and re-dying may be required.

Remark: The above recommendation is not to be used when fabric is yarn dyed.

Color fastness to rubbing

Why Should We Test?

To determine the resistance of tested sample to rubbing

.

This determines the quality of dying or printing including the quality of

colourant used and the quality of process involved in producing the coloured

textile/textile end product.

Apparatus - Crock meter

76

Assessment of color staining of the rubbing cloth after wet rubbing.

77

The scale with fastness grades 1 to 3 of the nine step scale is applied.

Failures and improvements WHY FAILURE?

The dye particles sticking on the surface of fabric causes staining to

White fabric when it is rubbed.

Sulphur, Pigment and Indigo have POOR Rubbing fastness.

Bad dyeing / Bad printing / Bad fixing.

Improper finishing / improper curing.

HOW TO IMPROVE?

A good and thorough SOAPING will remove the undyed particles and

improve the Rubbing fastness.

Good dye & dye fixing to be used

Better selection of dyestuff with necessary certification from dye

manufacturer.

In case of Pigment prints good curing.

78

Color fastness to Perspiration

This test is used to determine the fastness of colored textiles to the effects of

perspiration. It is applicable to dyed, printed or otherwise colored textile fibers, yarns

& fabrics of all kinds and to the testing of dyestuffs as applied to textiles.

Apparatus and Materials

1. Perspirometer

2. Balance with weighing accuracy of +1- 0.001 g

3. Drying oven

4. pH meter

5. Volumetric flask

6. Petridish

7. Multifibre test fabric

8. Gray scale for staining and colour change

ISO Persiciration Solution Chemicals

Acidic (per litre)

• O.5g histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate

• 5g sodium chloride

• 2.2g sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate

• Required pH 5.5

Alkaline (per litre)

• O.5g histidine monohydrochloride

monohydrate

• 5g sodium chloride

• 2.5g disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate

• Required pH 8

Apparatus

79

Color fastness to Light

Principle: A specimen of the textile to be tested is exposed to artificial light under

prescribed conditions, along with agreed standards (blue wool reference).

The colourfastness is being assessed by comparison of the colour change of the

exposed portion to the masked control portion of the test specimen using gray scale or

blue references used.

Machine and Material

Air Cooled type Machine Blue Wool Standard

Standard Reference Materials

ISO Blue wool reference standards

Blue wool reference developed and produced in Europe are identified by the numerical

designation 1 to 8. They range from 1 (very low colour fastness) to 8 (very high fastness)

so that each higher-numbered reference is approximately twice as fast as the preceding

one

80

Pilling Test

Pilling is a process of formation of pill because of entanglement of surface

fibres during wear. The propensity of pilling is determined by the rates of following

parallel processes:

- Fibre entanglement leading to pill formation;

- Development of more surface fibre;

- Fibre and pill wear off.

Fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and pilling is determined by:

- Martindale Method

- Pill box method

- Random tumble method

81

ICI Pill Box

Pilling - Visual assessment

5 - No Visual Change

4 - Slight surface fuzzing and! or partially formed pills.

3 - Moderate surface fuzzing/or moderate pilling. Pills

of varying size and density partially covering the

specimen

2 - Distinct surface fuzzing and/ or distinct pilling.Pills

of varying size and density covering a large proportion

of specimen.

1 - Dense surface fuzzing and / or severe pilling.Pills of

varying size and density covering the whole of the

specimen

Failures and improvements

WHY FAILURE?

Inferior yarn with less staple fibers (Carded) are used in the fabric

construction.

Use of synthetic fibers with natural fibers may induce static energy which can

cause pilling.

HOW TO IMPROVE?

Selection of good combed yarns is very much essential in preventing pilling.

Use of Antipilling/ Enzyme treatments may reduce pilling to

lncase of SyntheUc and natural fibers, may use any antistatic finishes.

82

Dimensional Stability to Washing

Manufacturers concerns are with residual shrinkage and relaxation shrinkage.

Residual shrinkage is what takes place over a period of time from laundering and

care.

Relaxation shrinkage occurs when the strained yarns relax after the stress placed on

them is released. When washing these goods the fabric tension is relaxed and they

come to relaxed state.

This test method is intended for the determination of dimensional changes in woven

& knit fabrics / garments, when subjected to repeated automatic laundering

procedures commonly used at home.

The dimensional changes of textile specimen subjected to washing are measured

using pair of bench marks applied to the fabric before washing.

Apparatus

Front Loading Washing Machine

Drying Methods

Line dry - Specimen is hanged by two corners with the fabric length in

vertical direction.

Drip dry - Dripping wet specimen is hanged by two corners with the fabric

length in vertical direction.

Flat dry - Specimen is dried by spreading on a horizontal screen or perforated

surface removing wrinkles without stretching and distorting it.

Tumble dry

- ISO dryer: Auto reversing action

83

Sample Marking: ‘Iso

Calculation

Wash and dry the sample 3 times for AATCC and once for ISO as per the

procedure explained earlier.

Condition the sample. After conditioning lay each test specimen without

tension on a flat smooth horizontal surface. Measure and record distance

between each pair of benchmarks.

Calculate the difference between the before wash and after wash measures and

report in %.

DC%= 100(B-A)/A DC = Dimensional Change

A = Original Dimension

B = Dimension after Laundering

Shrinkage is denoted as ‗-‗which is decrease in dimensions Elongation is denoted as

‗+‗which is increase in dimensions.

Failures and improvements

Dimensional Stability to washing:

WHY FAILURE?

During spinning, weaving, bleaching, dyeing and the various finishing

processes. yarns and cloth are under a continuous tension.

Yarns and/or fabrics are not fixed materials. They consist of separate,

stretchable fibers which submit to the tension. In other words, fabrics do

stretch in length and width.

The tension within the yarns is eliminated when friction occurs during

laundering where both water and soap act as a lubricant.

The lubricant, along with the mechanical action of the washer, helps the fibers

relax and contract to their original length before the elongation takes place.

84

This means that the fabric shrinks.

HOW TO IMPROVE?

A mechanical means of reducing the shrinkage (compacting, overfeeding,

Sanforising) is suggested.

85

86

The process by which a textile material is changed physically or chemically so

that it looks colorful is called dyeing

Dyeing is the process of coloring textile materials by immersing them in an

aqueous solution of dye, called dye liquor. Normally the dye liquor consists of dye,

water and auxiliary. To improve the effectiveness of dyeing, heat is applied to the

liquour.

Dyeing theory covers a wide range of subjects mainly in the area of physical

chemistry. As for all theory, the aim is to provide a set of hypotheses that explain the

behavior of known dyeing systems, and which are capable of predicting what will

happen in a new situation. Dyeing theory has many qualitative aspects that are useful

in explaining practical dyeing, but the physic-chemical measurements on dyeing

processes that provide quantitative data are often far removed from actual dyeing

practice. Some of the subjects included in dyeing theory are:

The state of dyes in solution and in the fiber during and after dyeing.

The rates of dyeing processes and how these are influenced by mass-transfer

of dye from the bath solution to the dye–fiber interface, and by diffusion of

the dye from the interface into the fiber.

The phenomena occurring at the dye–fiber interface such as dye molecule

adsorption and the effects of surface potentials.

The nature of the interactions between dye and fiber molecules, which are the

origin of substantively.

The treatment of dyeing as a thermodynamic equilibrium and its description in

terms of thermodynamic variables.

The theory of fiber structure and how this influences dyeing rates and

equilibrium.

Many of these subjects are discussed briefly, and qualitatively, in other chapters of

this book. This present chapter will introduce some of the more quantitative aspects of

dyeing equilibrium and kinetics.

The general theory dyeing explains the interaction between bye, fiber , water and dye

auxiliary. It explains-

Force of repulsion: which are developed between the dye molecules & water.

Forces of attraction: which are developed between the dye molecules &

fiber?

The forces are responsible for the dye molecules leaving the aqueous dye liquor and

entering & attaching themselves to the polymers of the fiber. First one is performed

by the forces of repulsion & the second is performed by forces of attraction.

The dyeing theory of dyeing

Dyeing

87

Successive stage in the dyeing:

Dye dispersed in the dye bath

↓↑ (convective diffusion)

Dye in the diffusion layer

↓↑molecular diffusion)

Dye in the electrical double layer

↓↑ ( absorption)

Dye absorbed on the fibre surface

↓↑ ( duffusion)

Dye diffused in the fibre dye physically or chemically bond in the fiber

↓↑ (fixation)

wet processing technology -1 md. Moshiour rahman

Chromophores: the name is derived from the Greek chroma = color and phore from

protein = to bear. The group that causes the appearance of color when introduced into

a chromogen and causes one or more absorption brands to appear in the visible

spectrum to mixture on by UV rays.

Chromophores are unsaturated organic radicals.

Their specific state of unsaturation enables them to absorb and reflect incident

electromagnetic radiation with in the very narrow band of visible light.

The chromophores give the dye molecules its particular color.

A molecule processing mo chromophores would be colorless.

Example of dyes: direct dye, acid dye, vat dye, basic, disperse, sulpher, reactive dye

etc.

Auxo chromes: the name is derived from the Greek auxein = to increase and chroma

= color. Auxochromes are organic radicals. The group present in dye except

chromophore grou is called auxochromes.

Goals of dyeing:

Shade with in tolerance limit.

Perfect leveling.

No crease mark

Fastness properties according to requirement.

Electrolytes:

Since the dye molecule and textile mtls, both become slightly negatively charged in

acqueous solution, there is a tendency for the dye and the fibre to repel each.

Sufficient energy has to be built up to overcome this repulsive force in dye liquor and

allow the dye and textile mtls to be attracted to one another so that the dye molecules

can emter the polymer system of the fibre. The addition of an electrolyte to the liquor

increases the uptake of the dye by the fibre.

88

Dye selection depends:

Factors to be considered for dye and dyeing process selects:

1. Hue: Hue means the name of color i.e. blue, green, and pink. The hue is of

great importance. Usually a mixture of hue is required to produce the desired

shade.

2. Shade: The meaning of shade is concentration. Usually the depth of tone of

color is shade, for this greater dye exists in fibre. So cost of dyeing is much. If

too much depth of shade affect on fastness properties or dyeing.

Example:

3. Brightness: It expresses how bright or unbright the object is some dye is

naturally bright i.e. basic dye and some dye is dull shade.

4. Cost: We have to motice to csot during the selection of dueing procedure.

Some dyes are cheap e.g. acid dye and some dyes are very costly e.g. reactive

dye, vat dye.

5. Fastness required: Resistance of mtl. To change in any of its color

characterstics.

6. Environmental pollution: The dyes are applied so that it does not pollute

environment.

7. Condition of application: Pigment dye is applied in continuous m/c which

application method facilities. But we have discontinuous m/c.

8. Availability: Dye must be available in dyeing factory.

Terms and definition of dyeing

1. Shade:

Depth of color %

Light shade- 0.5% own

Mediums shade- 1.5

Deep shde – 1.5 or 1.6 and above

For deep shade, fastness properties of dye, increase and decreased of washing

fastness.

2. Substantively: substantivity means the rate of dye transfer from the dye sol to the

textile mtls and also the distribution of dye molecules in the textile mtls.

Substantivity is caused for different types of attraction between dye molecules

and textile mtl molecules.

3. Affinity: the attraction of dyes to the textile mtls is called affinity. It is related to

heat or temperature. Dyeing is performed for the affinity of dye and fibre. Dyeing

affinity very with the temp.

4. Color strike: initial exhaustion on the fibre in a dye bath is called color strike. All

the starting of dyeing, the rate of transfer of dye from the dye sol to the textile

mtls is more than any other time. About 30 seconds 50% of dyeing is completed.

5. Exhaustion: when three process complete (ad sorption, sorption, desorption) then

total dye molecules enters fibre then it is called exhaustion.

89

Or the difference between the total dye molecules in the dye sol and the rest of the

molecules in the dye sol after dyeing is called exhaustion.

Let initial dye bath concentration = IDC

Dye bath concentration after dyeing = FDC

IDC – FDC

Exhaustion % = × 100

IDC

Dyestuff Exhaustion%

Reactive

Disperses

Direct

Sulpher

6. Adsorption: when dye molecules come to the surface of the fibre, it is called

adsorption.

7. Sorption: when dye molecule enters into fibre then it is called sorption.

8. desorption: the process by which the dye molecules come out from the inner side

of the textile mtls in particular conditions (such as mil, time , temple) is called

desorption.

Sorption

Adsorption

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

Desorption

0

0 0

Souring:

The treatment / the process by which the fabric, after processing with alkali or

scouring, is treated with Hydrochloric acid or dilute H2SO4 for removing alkali or

neutralization of alkali is scouring.

Types of dyeing m/c: High pressure Winch dyeing m/c

Beam dyeing m/c

Jigger dyeing m/c

Jet dyeing m/c

90

Description of winch dyeing m/c (for knit dyeing):

Winch dyeing

The winch or beck dyeing machine is quite simple and serves for all scouring,

bleaching, dyeing, washing-off and softening processes.

The machine contains a length of fabric with the ends sewn together, which is

compressed to form a continuous rope. This rope passes from the dye bath over two

elevated reels and then falls back into the bath

Illustration of a winch dyeing machine with Autoloda

The first roller is free-running (jockey or fly roller).

The second (winch reel) is driven and controls the rate of rope transport and the

extent of pleating where the rope accumulates below and behind the winch. Both reels

extend the full length of the machine and accommodate several fabric ropes running

side by side. The fabric rope is held on the winch by Autolodfriction and its own

weight.

Covering the winch with polypropylene or polyester tape increases the friction.

Deep-draught winches have circular or only slightly elliptical winch reels and the

fabric falls into the back of the dyebath with little pleating. This type of winch is

preferred when fabric stretching may occur

The bottom of the machine slopes from back to front so that the fabric accumulating

behind the winch easily moves forward. Tubular knitted fabrics, with a compact

construction, tend to form a balloon filled with air just below the jockey roll. This

is desirable since crease locations change with each cycle. An elevated driven roller at

the front of the machine is used to load and unload the goods.

A perforated baffle separates the liquor in the front of the machine from the

remainder. This part of the machine is called the salting box. Both dyes and

chemicals are added to it during dyeing and gradually mix into the remainder of the

solution.

All additions must be made across the full length of the machine with stirring.

91

Heating is by steam injection from a perforated pipe running along the length of the

salting box. Careful design is necessary to ensure that steam condenses before

reaching the liquor surface. Direct steam injection causes some bath dilution and can

be quite noisy when steam bubbles collapse explosively on rapid cooling, or when

they strike the walls. The machine is preferably closed to avoid steam and heat losses,

particularly when dyeing at or near the boiling point.

The problem of non-uniform temperature in the bath, caused by the cooled fabric

falling into the back of the bath, can be minimised by use of a pump to circulate the

bath solution. The liquor ratio is typically about 20:1.

During dyeing, the bulk of the fabric is moving slowly in the dyebath. The rate

of dyeing is partly `controlled by the rate of rope cycling and usually increases with

increasing winch speed. The winch is usually run quite fast but not at such a speed as

to damage to fabric, or promote its elongation or felting.

Several ropes of equal length (50–100 m) are usually dyed side by side, being

kept apart by pegs in a long rail below the fly roller. The hinged peg rail lifts if a

tangled rope arrives, automatically turning off the winch drive. Short lengths of

bindividual ropes require more sewing and more time to locate the seams for

unloading. There is an obvious advantage if one long, continuous spiral of rope

advances through the machine from one side to the other. It then returns to thestart by

way of a sloping trough or tube filled with dye solution at the back of the machine. In

this case, a continuous helical metal spiral, whose pitch determines the loop spacing,

replaces the peg rail. This type of loading is more uniform and allows a lower liquor-

to-goods ratio.

Main parts of a Winch dyeing m/c:

92

93

Organogram: AGM

Senior Manager

Manager

Production officer (shift 01) Production officer (shift 02)

In-charge (per shift) In-charge(per shift)

Supervisor (per shift) Supervisor (per shift)

Senior operator (per shift senior operator (per shift)

Operator (per m/c) Operator (per m/c)

Helper (per m/c) Helper (per m/c)

Working sequence of dyeing section:

Fabric receiving

Fabric inspection Pre -process

Batching

Scouring

Bleaching Pre-treatment

Enzyme (if required)

Dyeing

After treatment & Softening

94

Sample dyeing Sample dyeing

Bangle dyeing

Winch-6

Capacity-120kg

Win

ch-8

Cap

acit

y -

900kg

Win

ch-5

Cap

acity-6

00kg

Win

ch-9

Cap

acit

y -

1200kg

Winch-7

Capacity-130kg

Win

ch-4

Cap

acity-9

00kg

Win

ch-3

Cap

acity-4

50kg

Win

ch-1

0

Cap

acit

y -

600kg

Store room

Win

ch-2

Cap

acity-5

0kg

Win

ch-1

1

Cap

acit

y -

600kg

Store room

Win

ch-1

Cap

acity-8

00kg

Win

ch-1

3

Cap

acit

y -

600kg

Bangle squeezer

Store keeper

Super visor

Color matching cabinet Slitting m/c

Manager table

95

Speciation of dyeing m\c: a. Sample dyeing m/c specification:

b. Bulk dyeing m/c:

Bulk dyeing m/c:

Machine no : 01

Machine name : Dilmenler

Country : Turkiye

M/c type : DMS12 HTECOFLOW

M/c capacity : 800 kg

Working pressure : 3-5 bar (maxi.)

Working temperature : 1350c (maxi.)

Liquid ratio : 1/6

M/c serial no : 12H08002001006

Production Date : 2001

Machine no : 02


Country : Turkiye

M/c type : DMS12 HTECOFLOW

M/c capacity : `````````` kg

Working pressure : 3-5 bar (maxi.)


Liquid ratio : 1/6

M/c serial no : 12H08002001006


Machine no : 03


Country : Turkiye

M/c type : DMS11HT JUMBO GET FLOW


Working pressure : 3 bar (maxi.)


Liquid ratio : 1/6

M/c serial no : 11H04502003044


Machine no : 04


Country : Turkiye

M/c type : DMS11HT JUMBO GET FLOW


Working pressure : 3 bar (maxi.)


Liquid ratio : 1/6

M/c serial no : 11H09002003065


96

Machine no : 05


Country : Turkiye

M/c type : DMS11HT ECO FLOW


Working pressure : 3.5bar (maxi.)

working temperature : 1350c (maxi.)

Liquid ratio : 1/6

M/c serial no : 12H06002000021


Machine no : 06

Machine name : Bangle dyeing

Country : local

M/c type :


Working pressure : - bar (maxi.)


Liquid ratio : 1/10

M/c serial no : -


Machine no : 07


Country : Turkiye

M/c type : DMS11ST JUMBO


Working pressure : 2.5 bar (maxi.)


Liquid ratio : 1/6

M/c serial no : 11H09002009025


Machine no : 08


Country : Turkiye

M/c type : MMS11HT JUMBO


Working pressure : 2.5bar (maxi.)


Liquid ratio : 1/6

M/c serial no : 11H12002006109


97

Machine no : 09


Country : Turkiye

M/c type : DMS12A ATM ECOFLOW


Working pressure : - bar (maxi.)


Liquid ratio : 1/6

M/c serial no : 12A06002001004


Machine no : 10


Country : Turkiye

M/c type : DMS12A ATM ECOFLOW


Working pressure :- bar (maxi.)


Liquid ratio : 1/6

M/c serial no : 12A06002001005


Machine no : 11


Country : Turkiye

M/c type : O2A SOFT FLOW


Working pressure : bar (maxi.)


Liquid ratio : 1/6

M/c serial no : 02A0375200001


Machine no : 12


Country : Turkiye

M/c type : MANMOOL


Working pressure : -bar (maxi.)


Liquid ratio : 1/6

M/c serial no : 02A0375200001


98

Sample m/c: 01 Sample m/c: 02

Sample m/c: 03 Sample m/c: 04

Raw material:

Source of fabrics:

Montex Fabrics ltd.

Alim knit fabric ltd.

Cotton club (BD) ltd.

Mondol knit wear ltd.

Dyes and chemicals (sheet)

Dyes chemical sheet present on inventory section in this report

General flow chart of dyeing section:

99

Objectives of Scouring

Grey fabric receive from knitting section

Batching

Select m/c no

Fabric loading

Select production program

Pre treatment

Select recipe for dyeing

Recipe confirm by D.M/S.P.O

Dyeing

After treatment

Unload

Pre treatment process: Scouring & bleaching

Scouring:

The team ―Scouring‖ applies to the remove of impurities such as oil, wax, gum,

soluble impurities and solid dirt commonly found in textile material and produces a

hydrophilic and clean cloth.

The process consists essentially of treatment with alkali, with or without detergent.

When soap is used a good supply of water is essential.

The loom state cotton fabric contains about 8-12% natural impurities of total weight

of the fiber . These impurities mainly consists of waxes, proteins, pectic substances

and mineral matters. In addition to this, the mechanically held impurities called

'motes' are present containing seed-coat fragments, aborted seeds and leaves etc. that

clinge to the fiber . Apart from these, the loom-state fabric is also contaminated with

adventiteous oils such as machine oils, tars, greases etc.

Scouring is a purifying treatment of textiles. The objective of scouring is to reduce the

amount of impurities sufficiently to obtain level and reproducible results in dyeing

and finishing operations. Scouring agents can be generally classified into different

groups.

100

To remove natural impurities like oil, wax, fatty materials as well

as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character as

completely as possible.

To increase absorbency of textile material i.e. fabric.

To transfer the fabric hydrophobic to hydrophilic.

The scouring efficiency is mainly depends on maturity, fineness

and origin of cotton fiber s.

Parameter of dyeing:

Waxes present in the fabric cannot be removed in saponification. These are esters of

higher fatty alcohol & fatty acids similarly mineral oils, lubricants oil etc cannot be

converted into water soluble product by boiling with NaOH solution. The process of

emulsification is used in the scouring of cotton material containing non-saponifated

oil such product can be removed by emulsifier.

Thus the scouring solution should also contain an emulsifying agent in addition to

Sodium hydroxide and wetting agent ordinary soap (washing) is good emulsifying

agent.

Scouring Agent

Alkalile Agents Surfactants Emulsion Scouring Organic Solvent

NaOH, KOH,

Na2CO3,

Liquid NH 3 .

(Sodium metasilicate,

Sodium Silicate,

Sodium

phosphate, Trisodium

phosphate,

Tetrasodium

phosphate, Sodium

tripolyphosphate,

borax etc.)

Anionic activator,

Non-ionic

activator

Chlorine System

Carbontetrachloride,

Trichloroethylene,

Perchloroethylene,

Methylchloroform,

Trichloromethane,

Fluorine.

Hydrocarbon System

Benzene,

Industrial

gasoline,

White spirit,

Solvent naptha.

101

Bleaching

Object of Bleaching

Bleaching:

Bleaching of textile material is a chemical or commercial process which can be

defined as

Destruction of natural coloring matters to impart a pure permanent and basic white

effects suitable for the production of white finishes, level dyeing and desired printed

shade with the minimum or no tendering (degradation) or without diminishing the

tensile strength.

Destruction of natural coloring matter from the fiber

To impart a pure permanent & basic white effect to the fiber

To obtain permanent white color of the fabric

To increase absorbency of textile material for dyeing printing etc.

Methods of Bleaching:

Bleaching in kier

Bleaching in j box

Oxidation Bleaching Agents Reductive Bleaching Agents

Chlorine System Bleaching powder

Sodium hypochlorite

Lithium hypochlorite

Sodium chlorite

Chloramine

Isocynual trichloride

Sulphur dioxide

Sodium hydrosulphite

Sulphoxylates

Acidic sodium sulphite

Sodium bisulphites

Peroxide System Hydrogen peroxide

Sodium peroxide

Sodium perborate

Potassium permanganate

Peracetic acid

Other peracids

Bleaching Agents

102

Pretreatment

Process of SCOURING/ BLEACHING:

Machine filling with water

Chemical Dozing at 98 0C

Run time 30 min.

H2O2 Inject

Run time at 98 0C (90min)

Cooling at 80 0C

Hot wash at 98 0C (10min)

Rinse at 80 0C

Sample Check

.

H2O2 - Killer Dozing

Run time 10 min

Acid wash 20 min

Drain

Scouring and Bleaching of 100% cotton; light and critical

shade

Recipe: for demineralization

Detergent: 0.3g/l

Antifoaming

Demineralizer-0.75g/l

Recipe: for scouring & bleaching

Anticrease

Caustic soda

H2O2

103

Detergent Acetic acid (for neutralization)

980c 50‘ 95

0c

15‘

700c

600c 20‘ H2O2 (4-5)‘ 65

0c 75

0c

400c 15‘

600c NaOH

400c 60

0c pc (inorganic base neutralize

Drain Inject drain drain

Injection

Detergent- 0.3g/l detergent

Antifoaming- Anticrease acid

Demineralizer-0.75g/l Antifoam (if required stabilizer) .

The important parameters of the scouring process are as follows:

Concentration of caustic soda

Type and concentration of auxiliaries

Treatment temperature

Reaction time

A surfactant of optimal versatility to be used for preparation, and in particular for the

scouring and bleaching processes, ought to meet the following requirements:

It should have an excellent wetting ability within a wide temperature range

It should permit a good washing effect and have a high emulsifying power for

natural fats, waxes and oils

It should be resistant to oxidants and reducing agents

It should be resistant to water-hardening substances

It should be highly stable to alkalinity

It should be biodegradable and non-toxic

.

The important parameters for bleaching with hydrogen peroxide are as follows:

Concentration of hydrogen peroxide

Concentration of alkali

pH

Temperature

Time

Nature and quality of the goods

Water hardness and other impurities

Types and concentration of auxiliaries

Desired bleaching effect

Available equipment, and stabilizer system employed

104

Effect of pH on Bleaching Effectiveness, Fibre Degradation, and Peroxide

Stability in Bleaching Cotton Fibres

Initial pH Final

pH

Whiteness CUEN % Peroxide

Index Fluidity

Remaining

8.0 4.4 66.8 5.48 72.5

9.0 8.7 67.3 1.44 71.6

10.1 9.9 71.3 2.44 63.3

11.0 11.7 72.2 7.29 7.0

12.0 12.4 69.5

17.8 2.0

The most common problems in bleaching cotton with hydrogen peroxide are as

follows:

Inadequate mote removal

Low degree of whiteness

Uneven whiteness (or bleaching)

Pinholes, tears, broken yarns, catalytic damage, loss in strength

Resist marks

Formation of oxycellulose

Cotton fabric dyeing with reactive dyes

Reactive dye:

A reactive dye, according to a useful definition by Ryes and Zollinger, is a colored

compound which has a suitable group enable of forming a covalent bond between a

carbon atom of a hydroxy, an amino or a mercapto group respectively of the substrate.

They point out that this definition excludes mordant dyes and 1: 1 chromium azo dye

complexes, which are used in dyeing protein fibers, may form covalent bonds

between metal ion and nucleophilic groups of the fiber.

Popularity of Reactive dye

Ability to produce bright shades of wide range.

High leaving of quality.

Good washing fastness.

Good light fastness.

Again its dying process is fast and gives brighter shades. For the above reasons

reactive dyes are more popular.

105

Properties of reactive dye

Reactive dyes are found in powder, liquid and print paste from.

Reactive dyes are soluble in water.

They have very good light fastness with rating about 6.

Textile materials dyed with reactive dyes have very good wash fastness with

rating about 4-5, due to strong covalent bonds formed between fiber polymer

and reactive group of dye.

Reactive dyes give brighter shades and they have moderate rubbing fastness.

Dying method of reactive dye is easy. If requires less time and low

temperature for dyeing.

Reactive dyes are comparatively very cheap. Easy to apply.

Fixation occurs in alkaline condition.

Reactive dyes have good perspiration fastness with rating 4-5.

Classification of reactive dyeing on the basis of application

1. Cold brand:

This type of dyes contains reactive groups of high reactivity. So dying can be

done in lower temperature ie. 32-60c. for ex: procion m, livafix e, are cold brand dyes.

2. Medium brand:

These types of dyes contain reactive groups of moderate reactivity. So dying is

done in higher temperature than that of cold brand dyes. I.e In between 60-71c

temperatures. For ex: remazol,livafix are medium brand dyes.

3. Hot brand:

This type of dyes contains reactive groups of least reactivity. So high

temperature is required for dying i.e. 72-93c temperature is required for dying. for

ex:procion h, cibacron are hot brand dyes.

106

107

108

Process control parameter

Control points Standard

1. Joining polyester fabric in left most nozzle : must

2. Cycle time (by watch) : not above 2.5min

3. Reel speed : 200-300

4. Pump pressure : 0.6 for single/j, rib,

0.7 for fleece

5. Nozzle position : as per table

6. Scouring liquor ratio : 1: 8 – 1:10

7. Scouring white ness : as compare to lab sample

(For light color)

8. Absorbency (by drop test) : excellence

9. Residual peroxide : 0

(By peroxide strip)

10. Glauber salt PH

: 6.7-7

(Before addition)

11. Enzyme bath:

i. PH : 4.5-5.5

ii. Temperature : 50-550c

iii. Time : 50′

12. Dye bath PH : 6.5- 7.0

13 spot check before addition of soda (for torques color)

14. Fixation PH:

a. light color : 10.3-10.5

b. dirk color :10.8-11.0

c. black color :11.2-11.4

15. Sample check after 20′

16. Drop time and temperature

109

The amount of Glaubers’ salt and Soda ash on the basic shade

percentage

17. Soaping PH

: 6.5-7.0

18. Fixing bath PH : 6.0

19. Softener PH

: 6.0-6.5

Shade % Glaubers‘ salt Soda ash

0.0010 - 0.2 20 g/l 5 g/l

0.2 - 1 40 10

1 – 2.5 60 15

2.5 - 4 70 20

4 - 8 80 20

Above 8 100 20

For some spacific color:

Name

Mixed alkali

Red ≤ 4% Navy ≤ 4% Black ≤ 4%

Glauber‘s salt (g/l) 80 80 100

Soda ash 5 5 5

Caustic soda 1 1 1

110

Washing or cleaning of new dyeing machine (for high temperature

machine)

Liquor ratio= 1:10≈ 1:12 (maximum)

Without loading fabric

Oxalic acid – 3.0g/ l (1300 ×2 hr.)

Cooling up to 750c

Drain

Loading rejected gray fabric in each nozzle

Detergent / wetting agent – 1.0g./l

Soda – 5.0g./l

100oc × 30‘

Check by operator lid

Flow chart of Turquise Color dyeing:

Fabric load

Wet Fabric

Drain

Fill water

Detergent, Sequestering, Anticreasing, Stabilizer at 65˚c for 8 min

Caustic soda at 75˚c for 8 min (dosing)

H2O2 at 80˚c (Inject)

111

Run time at 98˚c for 90 min

Hot wash at 98˚c for 10 min

Acid at 60˚c for 20 min

PH Check (4-4.5)

Enzyme at 60˚c for 60 min

Hot wash at 98˚c for 10 min.

Dye at 60˚c for 30 min (dosing)

Leveling at 60˚c (Inject)

Salt at 60˚c (Inject)

Soda at 60˚c for 30 min (dosing)

Hot wash at98˚c for 10 min (Color)


Fixing at 45˚c for 20 min

Hot wash at 60˚c for 10 min (Color)

Softener at 45˚c for 20 min.

LPD wash

Unload

112

Reactive dyeing process; 100% cotton, Royal and Turquoise

color

900c (turoquish)

800c (royal) 80

0c

1.5/min

700c

1.5

600c

5‘ dyes 10‘ 30‘ 5‘ 5‘ Progressive (45-

60)‘for

Auxiliaries G.salt soda ash

Inject 1/10

3/10

6/10

Progressive dosing

Or sectional dosing dosing

Control point

silicon based Antifoaming must be avoid

Before soaping PH must be below 7

Liquor ratio- 1:10 ( dye bath )

If dye bath final liquor ratio is 1: 10 but neutral bath 1: 8

113

Dyeing Sequence for Light Shade

M/C wash

(Hydrose, caustic soda at 98˚c for 20 min)

Detergent, Sequestering, Anticreasing, Stabilizer at 65˚c for 8 min

Caustic soda at 75˚c for 8 min (dosing)

H2O2 at 80˚c (Inject)

Run time at 98˚c for 90 min

.

Hot wash at 98˚c for 10 min

A.Acid at 60˚c for 20 min

PH Check (4-4.5)


Hot wash at 98˚c for 10 min.

Dye at 60˚c for 30 min (dosing)

Levelling at 60˚c (Inject)

Salt at 60˚c (Inject)

Soda at 60˚c for 20 min (dosing)

Hot wash at 80˚c for 10 min (Color)

A.Acid at 65˚c for 20 min

Soaping at 85˚c for 20 min

Fixing at 45˚c for 20 min

Bath drop

114

Reactive dyeing process, 100% cotton, light and critical shade

Critical shades:

-Khaki; -olive;

-Shay;

- Light brow.

780c 20‘ 15‘ 20‘ 20‘

Dyes G. salt

Linear dosing cooling

10‘

600c 30-

60

0%

20‘ 20‘

400c

1/5 soda

4/5soda progressive

Dosing-3 dosing-3

20% soda (1st) 80 %( 2nd)

Auxiliaries

Control point

Never use soda for light shade

Use glauber salt

Bleaching should be not above 600c.

115

Reactive dyeing process; 100% cotton light, medium and critical

shade

900 15

25‘

780c 15‘ 20‘ 5‘ 1.5/min

Dyes G. salt

30 60

600c 20‘ 25‘

1/5soda

4/5 soda

20% dosing 80% dosing

400c

Controlling point:

Dosing should be always 600c

Use Glauber salt.

Soda for light shade.

116

Flow chart of Cotton fabric dyeing(Black)

Scouring & bleaching→98˚c temp for 45-60 min

(Wetting agent, sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, anti foaming agent, stabilizing

agent, hydrogen per oxide)

Per oxide dozing 8 min, R.T 60 min at 95˚c

Enzymes wash with acid→50˚c temp for 60min

Leveling with anti foaming & anti creasing agent at75˚c temp for10′

Salt dozing 10 min at 60C, R.T15 min

Dye dosing 15 min at 60˚c, R.T.15 min

Soda dozing 30min at 60C & R.T 45 min

Heating 65C,R.T 45 min then sample cutting

Washing off→70˚c or 95˚c temp for 15

A/acid wash→ 45˚c temp for 20 min

Softener→35˚c temp for 20 min

Unload

117

Flow chart of Cotton fabric dyeing(Black)

600c

10‘ 35‘ 30‘ 45‘ 45-60‘

Auxiliaries dyes soda ash drop

Glauber

600c

10‘ 35‘ 30‘ 20‘ 40‘ 30‘ 60‘

Auxiliaries linear dosing soda 5g/l caustic

drop

G. salt dyes

118

Color: lilla chiaro

Dyeing process for purple, violet, lilae or any Blue – Cl-Br- combination shade-

(45-60)‘

600c

1.5/min

Rinse

400c 10 10‘ 30‘ 30‘ 40‘ 5‘ and

drain

5‘ Run

Leveling salt Dyes Run Soda

PH- 6.5

Machine wash or machine cleaning

Existing color in machine – next color will be in machine

- wash

Dark shade (Navy, Black, Red, Burgundy) –

light shade (Ecru, Light Blue, Light Pink,

Pale)

Wash with –

A. 0.7g/l Hydrose

B.75 g/l caustic

C. 1100c ×20

Same color – same color – no need wash

Remarks:

119

a. Gray fabric can be loaded.

b. Without any problem but color.

c. Fabric, shade fabric should be loaded by neutralization.

N.B. After competition of machine wash makes sure that cleaning is done correctly

this should be done by opening lid.

Washing off process, 100% cotton all colors:

Soaping

950c

800c

15‘

for dr. color two times soaping

400c Neutralization two times soaping rinse

* For light color without soaping

15‘

5‘ 5‘

Drain rise drain rinse drain Acetic acid 1.0g/l (d.k color) Drain

Drain

0.7 g/l (light color)

120

Viscose pretreatment and dyeing carve

Detergent (MD-2) - 0.75g/l

Anticrease (rex) – 0.70g/l 600 c×45‘

Alp- clean – 3.0g/l

Normal washes – 2 times

Hot wash at 600c ×10‘

Platition – 0.8g/l

H2O2 killer – 0.3g/l

Hot wash at 600c ×10‘

600C 40‘

5‘ 25‘ 5‘ 25‘

1/3 soda

2/3 soda

Salt 1.50/min

Dyes

400c

30‘ 10‘ 30‘ 10‘

B/D

1/3+

2/3

Antifoam

Sequestering

Leveling

121

FOR KELLY GREEN

M: L = 1: 12

Leveling agent – 2.0g/l

Sequester – 1.0g/l

Anticreasing- 0.5g/l

900c

25‘

Soda

Dyes salt 1.50c/min 1.5

0c/m

800C

800c 30‘ 10‘ 30‘ 45‘

60‘

1/3+2/3

Leveling 15‘+30‘

B/D

122

Flow chart of White fabric dyeing:

Fabric load in m/c

Wet the Fabric

Drain

.

Fill water

Acid

Ph check-(4-4.5)


Enzyme hot at 90˚c for 10 min

Scouring & bleaching at 98˚c for 90 min

Syno color at 60˚c for 30 min (dosing)

.

Runtime time at 98˚c for 20 min

Sample check-

Color out

Color hot wash at 80˚c for 10 min


Softener at 45˚c for 20 min

Rinsing

Unload

123

Process Flow Chart of Polyester Dyeing

Fabric load

Water fill

Auxiliary chemical add

Temp. Raise

Run the m/c 600c at 15min

Adjusted PH with A. acid

Color dosing for 10 min at 600c

Temp. Raise 1350c

Run the m/c 45 -60 min

Cold down700c

Shade check

Rains /Drain

Ok

Hot wash

Rains /Drain

Reduction cleared with hydrose caustic

Soaping

Neutralizing

Hot wash

Cold wash

124

Re- dyeing

When shade is not matched then fabric is treated again in dyeing m/c for shade

matching is known as re- dyeing.

Generally re-dyeing is done if the shade is deeper/lighter than the target shade.

It may occur when the fabrics absorbed one or two colors more or less.

One re-dyeing process is described below:

Drain the let off solution.

Transper acid and detergent

Hot wash at 900c for 5 min and frain

Eater is frained and re-filling (based on fabric)

Dosing caustic hydrose within 10 min

Wash at 1030c for 40 min

Cooling at 600c

Then drain and filling new water

Half scouring is done

Added peroxide killer to neutralization

Remaining PH(4.9) leveling is added

Then other operations are same as previous described dyeing operations.

125

Process Flow Chart of SOAPING:

Machine filling with water

Heating at 60 0C

Acetic acid dosing

Run time 6 min.

Heating at 95 0C

Chemicals dozing

Run time 12 min.

Cooling at 70 0C

Rinse

Drain

PH Check

126

Full stripping

The removal of dying shade of desired amount is called stripping.

It becomes necessary when uneven dyeing occurs.

It is two types:

1. Partial stripping:

Partial stripping is obtained by treating the dyed fabric with dilute

acetic acid or formic acid. Here temperature is raised to 70-100c and

treatment is continued until shade is removed by desired amount. After

that a through washing is necessary.

2. Full stripping:

For complete the goods are first treated with sodium hydrosulphite

(hydrose) at boil then washed off and bleached 1% sodium hypochlorite

(NaOCI) at room temperature. This is carried out for 30 minutes.

Reductive stripping without hydro-sulphite

950c (30-40)‘

Alternative of 780c

800c hydrosulphite

5‘

600c meclear12

1-2g/l

Drain

NaoH exolube Nc

3-5g/l MC 1.0g/l

Hot wash: 900c× 10‘

Hot wash: 900c× 10‘

Neutralize acetic acid = 1-2g/l to make PH= 7

N.B:

1. Never use H2O2 after above treatment.

2. be careful about neutralization.

127

Common dyeing faults with their remedies

1. Uneven dyeing:

Causes:

- Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).

- Improper color dosing.

- Using dyes of high fixation property.

- Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.

- Lack of control on dyeing m/c

Remedies:

- By ensuring even pretreatment.

- By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.

- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.

- Proper controlling of dyeing m/c

2. Crease mark:

Causes: - Poor opening of the fabric rope

- Shock cooling of synthetic material

- If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal

- Due to high speed m/c running

Remedies:

- maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.

- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature

- Reducing the m/c load

- Higher liquor ratio

3. Dye spot:

Causes:

- Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.

- Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.

Remedies:

- By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals

- By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh

strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed

128

4. Softener Mark:

Causes:

- Improper mixing of the Softener.

- Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.

- Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

Remedies:

- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.

- Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.

- Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

5. Batch to Batch Shade variation:

Causes:

- Fluctuation of Temperature.

- Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.

- Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.

- Dyes lot variation.

- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.

- Improper pretreatment.

Remedies:

- Use standard dyes and chemicals.

- Maintain the same liquor ratio.

- Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.

- Maintain the same dyeing cycle.

- Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of

the Shade.

- Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same

time and temperature in the process.

- The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water

should check daily.

6. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:

Causes:

- Poor migration property of dyes.

- Improper dyes solubility.

- Hardness of water.

- Faulty m/c speed, etc

129

Remedies:

- Use standard dyes and chemicals.

- Proper m/c speed.

- Use of soft water

7. Patchy dyeing effect:

Causes:

- Entanglement of fabric.

- Faulty injection of alkali.

- Improper addition of color.

- Due to hardness of water.

- Due to improper salt addition.

- Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.

- Uneven heat in the machine, etc

Remedies:

- By ensuring proper pretreatment.

- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.

- Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.

- Proper salt addition.

8. Wrinkle mark:

Causes:

- Poor opening of the fabric rope

- Shock cooling of synthetic material

- High temperature entanglement of the fabric

Remedies:

- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.

- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature

- Higher liquor ratio

130

131

Definition:

Finishing is the term used for a series of processes to which all bleached, dyed

or printed fabrics are subjected before they are put to market.

After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish, during dyeing all knit fabrics are

dyed in tubular form. According to buyers requirement knit fabrics are finished in

open form or tubular form.

Types of finishing m/c in MONTEX FABRICS Ltd:

Name of m/c Number of m/c

Hydro-extactor 2

De twistering / dewatering 2

Dryer 2

Bangle squeezer 4

Compactor 5

Steam setting 2

Heat setting 1

Stenter 2

Raising 1

Paching 1

Slitting 1

Organogram:

In-charge

Finishing Q.C. Delivery

In-charge In-charge In-charge

Supervisor Supervisor Supervisor

Operator Helper Loader

Helper

132

Duties and responsibilities:

1. Receive the fabric from dyeing floor.

2. Finishing machines are ready for finish according to buyer requirement.

3. Check the quality of the fabric such as Dia, GSM, Shrinkage, Spirility, Shade

effect.

4. Pack the fabric and weighted the fabric.

5. Store the finished fabric.

6. Finally deliver the finished fabric.

Working sequence of finishing section:

De-watering dyed materials

Drying the materials

Steam setting/ heat setting the materials

Finally the Fabric dimension stable

Quality control

133

Toilet

Balance

Delivery in-charge

Batch section

Dying section

De-watering machine

Hydro-

extract

or

De-watering

Return

Over

m/c

Turn

table

tubtex

m/c

Heat

Setting

m/c

Inspecti

on table

Store

Store

tubtex

compac

tor

Steam

Setting

M/c

Inspection

table

Inspection

table

Inspection

table

Quality section

Fin

ishing

in-

cha

rge

finishing Dyeing

section

Dryer

134

Laffer m/c

Stanter

Machine

Input zone

Delivery

Zone

Raising machine

Back sewing m/c

Peaching

m/c

Stair

Lift

Stair

135

For tubular form following machines are required

Hydro-extractor

De-watering

Dryer

Steam setting m/c

Re-turn over m/c

Compactor(Tubtex m/c)

136

M/c specification and description

1. HYDRO- EXTRACTOR M/C:

Manufacturer :

Extraction % : up to 60%

Speed : 600-1400 rpm

Function:

To remove excess water from fabric by centrifugal extraction.

Inner perforated cage

Solid Outer cage

Motor

Hydro-extractor m/c

Working procedure:

Before drying from heavy fabric (pile, fleece, and terry fabric) excess water is

removed by hydro-extractor. It is a batch process which works on centrifugal

principal.

The basket form of centrifuge consists of a perforated cage of copper or iron

casing. Wet fabric is bundled into the cage which is then rotated at high speed. This

rotation develops a centrifugal force which forces the wet fabric to the inner wall of

the cage. Water is then forced out of the fabric through the perforation of cage and is

drained away from the outer casing.

Rotation speed – 600- 1000 rpm

If emergency - 1400- 15000 rpm

After hydro-extraction water remain in fabric is 50-60 %

Time : 2- 10 min

137

DE-WATERING MACHINE:

Machine name : Dewatering M/C

Brand name : MERSAN

Manufacturer : PASLANMAZ MAKINA SAN. VETIC LTD.STI.

Type : Balloon squeezer

El. Power : 14 kw

Weight : 3,500 kg

Function:

Reduce water content.

Apply chemicals.

Apply overfeed to give some compactor.

Open the fabric from the rope form.

Width wise stretch the fabric.

Plait the fabric.

Padder

Delivery roller

Shaft

Front view of dewatering m/c

Controlling parameters: Padder pressure : 4-7 bar

Pick- up : 85%

GSM : 20-30%

Speed at m/c : 8.5 m/min minimum than the

requirement of customers.

Function of m/c parts:

a) Spreader:

By spreader we can open fabric from rope position. It can be spread

and compressed in width direction by its hydraulic cylinder.

b) Hand wheel:

It is a manual when for guiding the spreader.

138

c) Turn table:

It controls the fabric rotation that helps in feeding the fabric the

spreader.

d) Squeezing roller:

To squeeze the water content from wet fabric.

e) Guiding roller:

It helps to feed the fabric into squeezing roller.

f) Security shield:

Security shield is an emergency switch settled with a plastic board

very bear to the padder. When it is closer to the padder it is on and when it

is pulled back than it is off, in case a big knot is going to the padded,

immediately pulls back the board to stop the machine.

g) Air injection switch:

It pushes air into fabric to turn it to ballooning form.

h) Photocell:

It is an auto sensor that control air injection.

Hand wheel De-twister

Air Injector

Chemical tank washing tank

Some part of de-watering m/c

Chemical application:

Softener: To soften the fabric. Softener bath capacity is 80 liters.

Recipe:

Baso soft (fatty acid condensation) : 4 g/l

Acetic acid : 0 .25 g /L

PH : 7.5

139

Working principle: After completing the dyeing process from the dyeing m/c then the fabrics are

Ready for de-watering. In de-watering m/c tubular fabrics are mainly processed.

There is a magnetic sensor which scene the twist of the fabric and its direction and

turn the fabric in opposite direction to remove twist automatically. Here dewatering is

performed De-watering is the process to remove the water from the fabric

completely by squeezing and it is done by the padder. A suitable expander is used

before the fabric is passed through the nip of the padders, which expands the fabric

flat wise and adjust the width.

The expander width is adjusted as S/J- 20%, PK-25%, Int.-35%, Lacoste-40% wider

than the required width. There is a pair of rubber coated padder, where water is

removed from fabric when passed through the nip of it.

Normally squeezer contain single or double padders where,

One for removing water and

Other for applying finishing chemicals such as softener.

But this finishing is done only for the tubular fabric. Open widths knitted fabrics are

applied finishing treatment later in stenter.

PASSAGE DIAGRAM OF DEWATERING M/C:

hj

Here present the compressor which given compress air to form ballooning

before passing through the padder. This balloon remove crease mark but not form the

maximum balloon otherwise shrinkage increase.

In feed & out feed traverses which present in albatross control the following functions

by over feeding system.

Troly

Passage

Detwister

Tray

Water Tank Chemical Tank

Folder/

Tray

Dewaterd

Fabric

Passage Diagram of The fabric in Dewatering Machine

Padding

Rollers

Padding

Rollers

Guide

Roller Guide

Roller

Shaper

140

Dryer:

Fuel combustion chamber:

Fuel- Natural gas

Fuel pressure-7.2m bar

Voltage-240/400v

Frequency-50Hz

Feed zone delivery zone

3- Chamber

Machine name: Dryer

Brand name: DILMENLER

Country: Turkey

M/c type: DMS 05- 3 chambers, 2 pass relax dryer

Total power: 154.84kw

Working width: 2400 mm

Inlet Dia: 96 m

Production per 12 hrs: 3,500kg

141

Drying:

Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is

evaporated from the fabric.

Curing:

Curing can be defined as a process following addition of a finish to textile

fabrics in which materials are heated for a short time in elevated temperature to effect

a chemical reaction.

Temperature : 180-2200c

Time : 30 to 60 secs

Controlling parameters:

GSM : 15- 35%

Shrinkage : 12-15%

Function of m/c parts:

Following equipment are used for relax drying process:

a) Dilmenler relax dryer(Turkey):

i. Gas burner heated.

ii. 3 chamber, 3 burners.

Gas burner

Conveyor belt

142

Machine setup:

a) m/c set up for Dilmenler relax dryer:

Machine parameter Set-up value

Temperature 1300-135

0 c for white shade

1400- 150

0 c for light shade

1300- 140

0 c for dark shade

1500- 170

0 c for black & navy

Blower fan setting

Auto

Exhaust fan setting Auto

Machine speed 3- 35 m/min depends on quality of fabric

Over feed 0- 40% depends on fabric construction

Width of spreader setting 45- 114 cm depends on the required

width of fabric.

Burner gas pressure 10- 15 bar

Working principle of dryer :

After de-watering then the fabric through the dryer. The main function of the

dryer is given below,

To dry the fabric.

To control the overfeed system.

To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M.

This machine contains two chambers. Two mesh endless conveyors are placed

lengthwise to the chamber named conveyor net and filter net, each chamber contain a

burner, which supply hot air .This hot air is guided through the ducting line by suction

fan .There are nozzles placed in between filter net and conveyor net. When the fabric

pass on the conveyor net, hot air is supplied to the wet fabric to dry it. There are

exhaust fan which such the wet air and deliver to the atmosphere through the ducting

line.

The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the m/c & the G.S.M of

the fabric. If the m/c temp.is high then m/c speed also high and the m/c temp. is low

then m/c speed also low .

143

Operating parameters:-

Temperature:-Set the temperature between 1200c -130

0c for white and 150

0c

-1700c for color fabric. GSM temperature Or, moisture content

temperature

Set the over feed up to 0-40% or as required to get finish G.S.M.

Set the speed as much as possible (6~20m/min). GSM speed

Checking parameters:

1. shade cheek:

In delivery side operation check the shade of fabric with customer approved

swatch.

If any deviation is found, he informs shift officer who takes the necessary

action to overcome the problem.

2. Width check: operator measures fabric width by using measuring tape and

compare with required width.

3. Weight check: operator checks the weight by using GSM cutter and electronic

balance and compared with the required weight.

4. faults check:

Re-turn over m/c:

Name: Re-turn over m/c

Brand name: MANMOOL

Country: China

Function of the re-turn over m/c:

Just turn of the fabric from either

back side to faces side or face side to

back side

Re-turn over m/c


Air tank

Steam setting m/c:

M/c Name: Steam Setting

Model: DNS- 1400

Manufacturing date: 11/2003

DONG NAM INDUSTRIAL CO. LTD

144

Conveyer

Steam r\r

Shaft

Feed r/r

Stem seating m/c

Continuous steaming machine

It is made up of a parallelepiped-shaped container (recent systems have closed

bottoms while old ones were opened at the bottom) with double-wall structure

preventing external heat transmission.

In the lower part of the jackets, the steam, coming from the boiler and passing through

the saturator, is caused to expand and boil in water. In this way, the saturated steam at

atmospheric pressure raises and heats the walls and the ceiling of the jackets

(preventing condensation drops from forming and dripping onto the fabrics, as a result

avoiding possible defects). The steam lowers from the top of the steaming machine

through the ceiling openings, drives the air away (air is heavier than steam) and fills

the steaming machine.

The equipment to control moisture and temperature of the steam feeding the

steaming machine is positioned in the jackets; the real-time control devices work

interactively and start immediately some spray-water humidifiers, each one is

cascade-connected with superheaters also assembled in the jackets. Thanks to this

system all the variables can be controlled in realtime (the temperature difference

allowed is ±0, 5°C of preset values, and steam density between 96 and 98%). If

necessary, the steam can be heated at temperatures of 170-180° C at atmospheric

pressure passing through the jackets.

1 - Overheated steam line

2 - Water supply

3 - Saturator

4 - Water drainage

5 - Saturated steam under pressure

7 - Saturated steam at 100°

8 - Superheater humidifier

9 - Control system

10 - Steam inlet

11 - Steam level

Diagram of a continuous steaming machine 12 - Steam exhaust

145

Temperature control

The fabric passes through the steaming machine folded on sticks; the sticks

rotate all along the path and change the contact point with the fabric continuously to

prevent any fixation defects in contacting points. Furthermore the fabric, by effect of

the rotation of support sticks, constantly changes its position to reduce the formation

of defects due to possible steam stratification. The steam exchange is carried out by

means of one or more exhausters. At the end of the path, the fabric gets out of the

steaming machine, while the sticks pass in the lower part of the machine and grip

another piece of fabric at the entry of the steaming machine. Special inlet and outlet

devices, together with a slight pressurisation, prevent the air from entering (max. O2

allowed = 0.3/1000 volume).

Continuous process

Schematic Diagram of a steaming m/c (the fabric moves in pieces or on sticks)

(Ref: Finishing Reference Book of Textile Technology, 1st edition 2001,

By Pietro Bellni, Ferrucclo Bonetti, Ester Franzetti, Giuseppe Rosace, Serqio Vaqo,

pag: 94-95)

Tub compactor:

Machine name – tubtex compactor

Brand name – Dilmenler

Country – U.S.A

Function:

To control shrinkage

To control GSM

To control dia

To smooth fabric

Heat setting of fabric for Lycra

146

`

Delivery zone

Action zone

Feed zone

Tub compactor

M/c apparatus:

Compactor shoe: 2 shoes to remove crease due compaction.

Shaft: five shafts are used. This are

Shafts size Touch o-Matic latch bar

14''-17"

16"-19"

17"-20"

A

19"-25"

22.5"-28.25"

B

26"-36.375" C

34.75"-47" D

45"-57"

48.25"-60.25"

E

Double rolls: must be open position in operation.

Fold fabric over pattern board

Measuring meter: three meters

*Shoe pressure meter

*Roll pressure near meter

*Roll pressure far meter

Over feed roller.

Expander

Blanket (2)

Steam sprayers.

cylinder (2)

Teflon covers

147

M/c setup:

m/c parameters Set up value

Stem pressure 4-6 bars

Air pressure 5 bars

Temperature 90-1000c

Cooling fan motor Auto

Width control 48 to 114 cm

Speed setting 5-35 m/min

Checking parameter:

a. Shade check: operator checks shade at delivery side with approved swatch.

b. Width check: operator measure fabric width measuring tape compares it with approved

swatch.

c. Weight check: operator check GSM by GSM cutter and electronic balance.

d. Faults check

e. Design and slanting: operators check design at delivery side.

f. Edgline checking: 0.5 mm in both sides.

Working principle:-

The main object of compactor is to make the fabric surface smooth, to control the

residual shrinkage, G.S.M and if required fabric width also. To control the residual shrinkage the

fabric is previously shrinkage artificially by gathering of loops of knitted fabric and it is set by

heat and pressure. In tube compactor, the dried tubular knitted fabric is face to steam when it

passed through the Teflon coated conveyor belt. When a cotton fabric absorbs water, it swells

and shrinks (particularly in length direction) because the absorbed water allows the cellulose

chains to move relative stain free position. Then the fabric is passed through the expander.

.

Fabric passage diagram through tubtex Compactor machine

Drayed

Fabric

Feed Roller

Feeder

Shaper

Steam Roller / 1st Roller Heating

1st Denser Roller

2nd Roller Heating 2nd Denser

Roller

Folding

Rollers

Compacted Fabric

148

This m/c contains two compaction units to compact both side of the tubular fabric. Each

unit contains a hot rotating cylinder, blanket which rotate in contact with the cylinder and Teflon

cover .while passing the expander roller, the fabric is over feeded. The fabric is compacted with

the pressure of blanket and Teflon cover while passing through the hot cylinder .Due to

compaction stitch length is reduced. Then the fabric is passed through the counting device

.Before packing, the fabric is inspected carefully.

.

Special feature of tubtex Compactor:

- Operating system is computerized.

- Steam bar present which soften the fabric for compacting.

- In compacting zone, edge & retard roller, compacting shoe and steel plates

are present.

- A pair of pulley present for fabric dia control.

- Fabric G.S.M, shrinkage and dia control.

For open form following machines are required

Hydro-extractor

De-watering

Dryer

Slitter

Stenter

Open compactor

149

Slitter m/c Slitting:

Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break Wales

line on length wise direction prior to stenter processing.

Brand name- Bianco (SH)

Country- Italy

Year of manufacturing-2007

Velocity maximum-90m/min

Function of the Machine:

Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing

To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for

stentering

Delivered fabric in crease free state

Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing

by a nozzle or air sprayer

It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding

mechanism

De- twister

Over view of a slitting m/c

150

Sensor

Cutter spreader padder sensor

Ring

Machine parts:

a. Rotary blade: to cut the fabric through break wiles line.

b. Ring: to help cutting.

c. Guide roller: to guide the fabric to plaiting.

d. Plaiting: to plait the fabric.

e. Sensor: sense for cutting through break Wales‘s line.


a) Cutting line check: operator checks fabric cutting line. Rotary blade cut fabric through

breaks Wales‘s line or not.

b) Bow and slant check: operator check bow and slant at delivery side.

c) Faults check:

Machine set up:

Machine parameters Set up value

Steam pressure 4-6 bar

Air pressure 5 bar

Temperature 90-1000C

Cooling fan motor Auto

Width control 48-114 cm

Speed setting 30- 80 m/ min

Padder pressure (3-7bar)

Working principle:-

The slitting m/c has 4 units - initial squeezer, de-twisting, slitter and padder. After dyeing

completed and falling of water from fabric the fabric is fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to

remove some water initially for the case of further processing in this m/c. The initial squeezer

does this work. The de-twisting unit removes twists that may present in tubular rope form fabric.

This unit has 3 de-twisting rollers, one rotation drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors.

151

Schematic Diagram of Fabric passage through the slitting m/c

By these rollers it detects twist in fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in opposite

direction. Before slitting there is a blower which blows air to open the tubular fabric & makes it

easy to pass over cigger. The cigger can be extended in circumference and opens the tubular

fabric in full circumference. Slitting is done by using open mark detecting golden eye by around

knife. Then the fabric passes through the padder where washing or chemical treatment is done.

Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After removing water width is controlled by

stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding device.

STENTER MACHINE: (M/C Specification)

Stenter m/c no - 01 Brand name - Sun-Super

Country of origin -South Korea

Manufacturing date-: 2006

Width Range -2700

Maximum Speed - 100m/min

Chamber – 8

Function:

- Drying

- Shrinkage control

- Heat setting

- Width control

- Finishing chemical application.

- Loop control

- Moisture control,

- Dimensional stability.

Dyed fabric

Knife for

open

The fabric

Open Fabric

Tubular

Fabric

De-twister

Sens

-or

Delivered

Fabric

Padder Cigger

r

152

Working Principle:

Stenter Machine is generally used to finish the open fabric. This stenter machine consists

of six chambers; each contains two burners, two blowers, two ducting line, nozzles and suction

fan attach with the suction line. The burner produces hot flue gases which guided though the

ducting line by the help of blower. There are nozzles placed above and bellow the rail. When the

fabric passed through the rail, then hot air is sprayed to the above and bellows the fabric with the

help of nozzle. The hot air is circulating in the chamber and the moisture in the fabric is

evaporated, which leave the chamber with the help of suction fan through the ducting line.

Working Principle:

Schematic Diagram of stenter m/c

Temperature of each chamber can control automatically by controlling the intensity of

burner. Generally lower temperature is maintained the first and last chamber then other

chambers.

The speed of the fabric is maintained according to the moisture content of the fabric.

After passing the fabrics to all the chambers, the fabric is collected for compaction. The

performance of the stentering range depends on proper introduction of the cloth into the

machine. The finer the fabric is being processed, the greater the significance of the correct,

crease free and fault free fabric introduction. In stenter m/c the fabric first passed through

different rollers including weft straightening device, uncurling device for proper feeding of the

fabric into the machine. Then it passed through the selvedge detector which detect the selvedge

and adjust the rail for proper gripping the fabric in the pin arrangement. This stenter m/c consists

of both pin and clip arrangement. The fabric first grip by pin and gust before entering the

chamber, pin are locked by clip arrangement. To maintain proper dimension of the fabric, length

wise overfeed and width wise tension is given to the fabric.

Weft

Straighter

Walkway

Feed Roller

Delivery Roller

Feed

Fabric Chemical Tank Softener Tank

1

2 3 4 5 6

Six Chambers Cooling

Chamber

Dele-

vered

fabric

Padding

Rollers

Padding

Rollers

153

Important parts:

- Burner (12) - Suction Fan (12)

- Exhaust air fan (6) - Nozzle

- Over feed roller. - Chain arrangement

Different sections of Stenter Machine:

A. Padder Section:

In the padder section the fabric is treated with chemicals specially with softener and acid

in two tanks. Each chemical tanks contains-

FOR POLYESTER: Arristan PSR (Softener) - 10kg

+ Acetic Acid (acid) – 200gm 100 liter water

or

Aqua IC (Softener) – 10 kg

+ Acetic Acid (acid) – 200gm 100 liter water

FOR COTTON: (COLOR):- Gemsol ASEM 20P - 10 kg

Reaknitt –FF - 7 kg 100 liter water

MgCl2 - 3 kg

Acetic Acid - 200gm

FOR COTTON: (WHITE):- Tubengal SMF - 10 kg

Arristan 64 - 3 kg

MgCl2 - 3 kg 100 liter water

Acetic Acid - 200g

B. Weft Straightner:

The main function of Weft Straightner is to control the bowing & Skewnesss of the

fabric.

C. Width Setting Chamber:

This Chamber control the width of the fabric by clip of 10 pin.

D. Heating Chamber:

This chamber controls the shrinkage and the G.S.M of fabric.

Temperature Range: Cotton-- 1500C~170

0C.

Polyester- 1650C ~ 185

0C.

With Lycra - 1750C ~ 190

0C.

E. Cooling Chamber:

This chamber cooled the hot fabric before reach to delivery zone.

F. Exhaust Motor:

This specific part used to exit the steam produced in the chambers and also exit the extra

temperature from the machine.

G. Delivery Zone:

This zone delivered the fabric in a folded form. In this zone the fabric has to

Pass through several rollers in order to prevent the formation of crease mark in the finished

fabric.

154

Diagram of Fabric passage through washing zone

Normal washing zone chemical washing zone

Chain Gas burner

Delivery zone Feed zone

155

Parameters Used For Different Constructed Fabric :

For Polyester Fabric:

Fabric Type

Overfeed %

Temperature0C

Speed

(m/min)

Stretch (%)

Inch

Light

Color

Deep

Color

Single Jersey

5 % to 10%

1750C

1550C

14~15

Depend on

fabric G.S.M

Single Lacoste

45 % to 50%

1750C

1600C

14~15

Depend on

fabric G.S.M

Polo Pique

45 % to 50%

1700C

1600C

18~20

Depend on

fabric G.S.M

Interlock

0 % to 15%

1800C

1650C

16~18

Depend on

fabric G.S.M

For Cotton Fabric:

Fabric Type

Overfeed %

Temperature0C

Speed

(m/min)

Stretch (%)

Inch

Light

Color

Deep

Color

Single Jersey

60 % to 75%

1650C

1600C

15~17

3~4

Single Lacoste

60 % to 70%

1650C

1600C

14~15

2.5~3.5

Polo Pique

60% to 65%

1650C

1600C

14~15

2~3

Interlock

60 % to 70%

1700C

1550C

12~14

2

Rib

60 % to 70%

1650C

1500C

12~14

2

156

N.B: All this data‘s are suitable for this machine only. All this parameters are suitable for. Grey

G.S.M range 140~160 to get Finished G.S.M 170~185 without Lycra Fabric

N.B: If fabric is less Redder than the standard one, then increase the temperature, reduce steam.

If fabric is less Yellowier than the standard one, then increase the temperature, without

steam.

If fabric is less Bluer than the standard one, then reduce the temperature, increase

steam.

N.B: Polyester rib fabric is finished in tube form. All this data‘s are practiced in mills which

may vary with the change of fabric type. The quality assurance department is assigned to

maintain consistently uniform quality of the material; in process and various stages of its

manufacturing.

Stenter m/c no - 02 Brand name - Sun-Super

Country of origin -South Korea

Manufacturing date-: 2006

Width Range -2700

Maximum Speed - 100m/min

Chamber – 8

Open compactor:

Machine name : Open compactor

Brand name : Dilmenler

Country : Turkey

Manufacturing Year : 2008

Function:

1. To control shrinkage.

2. To control width.

3. To control GSM.

4. To smooth the fabric.

5. Heat setting for Lycra.

Conveyer belt

Compaction r/r

Feed roller

Sensor

157

Open compactor

Delivery zone

Function of Machine parts:

Spindle roller: spread the fabric

Blanket: To convey the fabric to the out let path.

Pinning roller: To equal the cheek and stripe.

Compaction roller: there are two compaction rollers, which are work with m/c

temperature. They are responsible to compact the fabric.Roller are-

Lower felt press and upper felt press

Start lub: To lubrication on the chain.

Sensor:

Two sensor camera control the fabric feed path in the inlet.

Tow sensor act to feed fabric in the chain.

Limick switch: To control the blanket path.

Machine set up:

Machine parameters Set up value

Steam pressure 4-5 bar

Air pressure 5 bar

temperature 80-1500c

Width 85-240 cm

Speed 5-50 m/min

Working speed 30m/min (maximum)

Over feed …..

*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle.

*Others fabric feed, straight.


a) Shade check: at delivery side operator check shade with approved swatch.

b) Faults check:

c) Width check: operator measures fabric width with measuring tape and compare

with approved swatch.

d) Weight check: operator check GSM by GSM cutter and electronic balance.

e) Design and slanting: operator check design and slanting at delivery side.

158

Lafer compactor

Brand name : Lafer

Country : Italy

Cylinder : 1

Company name : SPA Machine Tessili

Model : GSI 106

Drum Speed : 110

Drum Dia : 72 inch

Machine Speed : 40 m/min

Manufacturing Year : 2002


For collar and cuff finishing following machines are required

Hydro-extractor

Softening machine

Dryer Softening machine:

Softening machine is used as a part of finishing process to soften only the collar and cuffs

to get required hand based on the requirement.

159

Other Finishing m/c

RAISING:

Raising:

Raising is a permanent mechanical finishing process of a layers from the body of the

fabric which stand out from the surface. Raising may be done either in wet stage (for woolen) or

dry stage (for cotton). Raising causes a lofty handle effect on fabric. For example

Flunnel fabric (woven raised fabric)

Fleece fabric (knitted raised fabric)

Specification of raising m/c

M/c name : raising m/c.

M/c type : RG2 24 Pcs.

Country : Taiwan

Power : 380v × 50 Hz

Manufacturing date : Nov‘ 2002

Objects of raising:

To obtain a lofty handle effect on fabric

To obtain a fleecy appearance

To gain velvet effect

To create pile or cover on fabric surface

To produce warm cloth as well as a soft one

Raising r\r

Delivery r/r

Double acting raising m/c

Types of raising m/c: two types

Teasel raising machine

Card wire raising machine

Working principle:

Raising is the term used to describe the creation of a pile surface on a fabric.

160

Fibers are deliberately pulled part way out of a yarn to give the fabric a hairy or fuzzy

appearance and a soft surface texture. Napping, sueding and shearing are techniques for

developing a surface pile and in conjunction with calendaring are lumped into a category referred

to as Surface Finishing. Surface finishing effects, especially rising, have been used for years to

enhance the appearance and hand of fabric. Many of the finest wool and cashmere fabrics are

still mechanically finished - not only to improve their hand and appearance but to increase their

bulk, to impart the feeling of warmth, to increase the number of fiber ends on the surface of the

fabric, to provide improved adhesion for laminating purposes and to improve the profit margin

per yard sold. Many of the same techniques are used to finish woven and knitted goods made

from synthetic and synthetic blended fabrics. Sueding and napping machines are used on both

filament and spun constructions while shears, polishers, calendars and decaters are used singly or

in combination to create specific surface effects.

Ref: (Chemistry &technology of fabric preparation and finishing, 1st edition 1992, by:

CHARLES TOMASINO, Pag: 332 )

Peaching m/c:

M/c Specification

Name:peaching

Brand:MARIOCROSTA

Country:

No of roller:

Dust extractor

Feed roller

Guide roller

Peaching m/c

161

Delivery r/r

Dram peach roller

Controlling parameter for light fabric (cotton):

Dram speed : 119

Expender speed : 500

Feed r/r speed : 13.1

Delivery r/r speed : 14.1

Brush r/r speed : 1125

Monitor

162

GSM cutter

Introduction:

A specialized instrument to determine the GSM of the textiles (Woven, Non Woven or

Knitted, Fabrics).The Round Cutter can be used for virtually any type of material including Film,

Foam, Carpet Paper and Board.

Equipment:

The unit is recommended for Yield testing i.e. determination of weight per unit area. The

sample cutter cuts out rapidly and accurately circular specimens of 100 Sq. cm. which is exactly

One Hundredth of a Square Meter.

The result in gram:

GRAMS per Square METER = Specimen Weight in Grams ×100

Technical specification:

SPECIMEN AREA 100 CM2

SPECIMEN

DIAMETER 113 MM (Approx)

TYPE OF CUT STANDARD

BLADES HEAVY DUTY(GERMAN) FOR LONG LIFE

RUBBER PAD FOR THIS APPLICATION FOR REPETETIVE TEST WITHOUT

FAIL.

Procedure: The Cutter has been specially designed to make it portable due to its light weight. Only

the fabric has to gripped between cutter base and Rubber pad cutter top to be rotated gently

clockwise direction for accurate cutting of fabric. The cut fabric can be weighed and multiplied

by 100 to get GSM.

Maintenance: To maintain the efficiency of the Cutter:

a) The Blades should be turned or changed when they become damaged or blunt.

b) The Cutting Pad should also be changed, when it becomes worn out.

Note: - For best results, only approved blades and pads should be used.

Accessory: For determining the weight per area, a weighing scale having the minimum sensitivity of 0.01

gm is required.

For this purpose, we have the following weighing scales:

1) Lab Analytical Balance : With 0.1 mg sensitivity

2) Digital Weighing Scale : With 0.01 gm sensitivity

3) Innolab Quadrant Scale for GSM to directly give GSM of fabric

GSM cutter

163

164

Yarn Dyeing

.

Montex Fabrics Limited

(Yarn dyeing Unit)

Name : Montex fabrics Ltd (Mondol Group).

Type : 100% Export Oriented Yarn

Year of establishment : 2002

Investor : Abdul Mojid Mondol

Location : Nayapara, Konabari, Gazipur.

Project cost : 60 Core

Certification & awards : ISO 9001:2002

Production capacity : Dyeing: 8 ton/day (Average)

E–mail Address : [email protected]

URL : http://www.mondol.net

http://www.texeuropbangladesh.com/

165

A History of Yarn

A continuous strand of twisted threads of natural or synthetic material, such as wool or

nylon, used in weaving or knitting.

Any fibre, as wool, silk, flax, cotton, nylon, glass, etc., spun into strands for weaving,

knitting, or making thread

Background

Yarn consists of several strands of material twisted together. Each strand is, in turn, made

of fibres, all shorter than the piece of yarn that they form. These short fibres are spun into longer

filaments to make the yarn. Long continuous strands may only require additional twisting to

make them into yarns. Sometimes they are put through an additional process called texturing.

The characteristics of spun yarn depend, in part, on the amount of twist given to the fibres

during spinning. A fairly high degree of twist produces strong yarn; a low twist produces softer,

and a very tight twist produces crepe yarn. Yarns are also classified by their number of parts. A

single yarn is made from a group of filament or staple fibres twisted together. Ply yarns are made

by twisting two or more single yarns. Cord yarns are made by twisting together two or more ply

yarns.

History

Natural fibers—cotton; silk, and wool—represent the major fibres available to ancient

civilizations. The earliest known samples of yarn and fabric of any kind were found near

Robenhausen, Switzerland, where bundles of flax fibres and yarns and fragments of plain-weave

linen fabric, were estimated to be about 7,000 years old.

Cotton has also been cultivated and used to make fabrics for at least 7,000 years. It may

have existed in Egypt as early as 12,000 B.C. Fragments of cotton fabrics have been found by

archaeologists in Mexico (from 3500 B.C.)., in India (3000 B.C.), in Peru (2500 B.C.), and in the

southwestern United States (500 B.C.). Cotton did not achieve commercial importance in Europe

until after the colonization of the New World. Silk culture remained a specialty of the Chinese

from its beginnings (2600 B.C.) until the sixth century, when silkworms were first raised in the

Byzantine Empire.

Synthetic fibers did not appear until much later. The first synthetic, rayon, made from

cotton or wood fibres, was developed in 1891, but not commercially produced until 1911.

Almost a half a century later, nylon was invented, followed by the various forms of polyester.

Synthetic fibres reduced the world demand for natural fibers and expanded applications.

Until about 1300, yarn was spun on the spindle and whorl. A spindle is a rounded stick

with tapered ends to which the fibres are attached and twisted; a whorl is a weight attached to the

spindle that acts as a flywheel to keep the spindle rotating. The fibres were pulled by hand from a

bundle of carded fibres tied to a stick called a distaff. In hand carding, fibers are placed between

two boards covered with leather, through which protrude fine wire hooks that catch the fibers as

one board is pulled gently across the other.

http://www.woolandyarn.co.uk/threads-i31.html

http://www.woolandyarn.co.uk/knitting-i357.html

http://www.woolandyarn.co.uk/knitting-i357.html

http://www.woolandyarn.co.uk/yarn-i452.html

http://www.woolandyarn.co.uk/made-i166.html



http://www.answers.com/topic/spun-yarn


http://www.answers.com/topic/cr-pe




http://www.answers.com/topic/filament



http://www.answers.com/topic/ply


http://www.answers.com/topic/linen

http://www.answers.com/topic/rayon


http://www.answers.com/topic/nylon

http://www.answers.com/topic/polyester


http://www.answers.com/topic/spindle-and-whorl

http://www.answers.com/topic/spindle

http://www.answers.com/topic/tapered

http://www.answers.com/topic/flywheel

http://www.answers.com/topic/bundle

http://www.answers.com/topic/distaff

http://www.answers.com/topic/protrude

166

The spindle, which hangs from the fibres, twists the fibres as it rotates downward, and spins a

length of yarn as it pulls away from the fibre bundle. When the spindle reaches the floor, the

spinner winds the yarn around the spindle to secure it and then starts the process again. This is

continued until all of the fibre is spun or until the spindle is full.

A major improvement was the spinning wheel, invented in India between 500 and 1000

A.D. and first used in Europe during the Middle Ages. A horizontally mounted spindle is

connected to a large, hand-driven wheel by a circular band. The distaff is mounted at one end of

the spinning wheel and the fibre is fed by hand to the spindle, which turns as the wheel turns. A

component called the flyer twists the thread just before it is wound on a bobbin. The spindle and

bobbin are attached to the wheel by separate parts, so that the bobbin turns more slowly than

does the spindle. Thus, thread can be twisted and wound at the same time. About 150 years later,

the Saxon wheel was introduced. Operated by a foot pedal, the Saxon wheel allowed both hands

the freedom to work the fibers.

A number of developments during the eighteenth century further mechanized the

spinning process. In 1733, the flying shuttle was invented by John Kay, followed by Hargreaves'

Spinning Jenny in 1766. The Jenny featured a series of spindles set in a row, enabling one

operator to produce large quantities of yarn. Several years later Richard Arkwright patented the

spinning frame, a machine that used a series of rotating rollers to draw out the fibers. A decade

later Samuel Crompton‘s' mule machine was invented, which could spin any type of yarn in one

continuous operation.

The ring frame was invented in 1828 by the American John Thorp and is still widely used

today. This system involves hundreds of spindles mounted vertically inside a metal ring. Many

natural fibres are now spun by the open-end system, where the fibres are drawn by air into a

rapidly rotating cup and pulled out on the other side as a finished yarn.

Yarn dyeing

There are many forms of yarn dyeing. Common forms are the at package form and the at hanks

form. Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form, and acrylic or wool yarn are dyed at hank

form. In the continuous filament industry, polyester or polyamide yarns are always dyed at

package form, while viscose rayon yarns are partly dyed at hank form because of technology [1]

.

The common dyeing process of cotton yarn with reactive dyes at package form is as

follows:

1. The raw yarn is wound on a spring tube to achieve a package suitable for dye penetration.

2. These softened packages are loaded on a dyeing carrier's spindle one on another.

3. The packages are pressed up to a desired height to achieve suitable density of packing.

4. The carrier is loaded on the dyeing machine and the yarn is dyed.

5. After dyeing, the packages are unloaded from the carrier into a trolly.

6. The packages are hydro extracted to remove the maximum amount of water.

7. The packages are then dried to achieve the final dyed package.

After this process, the dyed yarn packages are packed and delivered.


http://www.answers.com/topic/fiber-bundle

http://www.answers.com/topic/spinner


http://www.answers.com/topic/bobbin

http://www.answers.com/topic/pedal




http://www.answers.com/topic/dyeing-2#cite_note-0

167

Yarn-Dyed Products

Textured yarns have revolutionised the world of textiles and clothing. By giving

synthetics a look and feel that is more akin to natural fibres, they have facilitated the penetration

of markets that were the domain of cotton and blended yarns.

The global market for textured yarns continues to expand in the USA and Japan, but the

largest and fastest-growing markets are in the developing East and South-east Asian countries.

The world‘s biggest market for these yarns is PR China; from a mere 8.2 kilotons in 1980, the

last two decades have seen phenomenal growth to a current level of about 850 kilotons per

annum.

Dyed yarn is needed for sewing threads, hosiery, carpets, towelling and a wide variety of

colour woven or knitted designs in outerwear, sportswear, workwear and home furnishings.

Although a much smaller market segment than fabric dyeing, the range of shades required is just

as large. Virtually all fibre types can be dyed in yarn form. This includes staple-spun natural

fibre yarns, continuous filament, and both flat yarn and textured and staple-spun yarns

manufactured from synthetic fibres. Yarn dyeing is situated almost midway in a typical

manufacturing sequence. By the suitable selection of dyes and processing routines, level dyeing

of high fastness together with a high degree of reproducibility can be produced, leading to right-

first-time (RFT) production. It is economically advantageous to spin undyed fibre, showing

improvements in spinning efficiency and the elimination of coloured waste. The availability of

undyed yarn in a form suitable for dyeing gives shortened delivery times, leading to a ‗quick

response‘ processing route.

The principal methods of dyeing yarn are either as hank or in package form. Hank dyeing tends

to produce a yarn with a fuller handle and bulk, but tangling may occur and the technique is not

readily suitable for singles yarn. Hank reeling and subsequent rewinding (back-winding) after

dyeing are costly and may generate waste. Levelness may be inferior to that obtained from

package dyeing due to channelling of the liquor in the dyeing m/c, whilst the payload for hank is

much less than that for package in a m/c of a given size.

Package dyeing gives better fabric definition but has often been criticised for yielding a

leaner yarn. However, by suitable yarn engineering this leanness can be overcome. Methods have

been developed for reducing the liquor ratio during dyeing. These include the use of larger

package dimensions with higher package densities produced by press-packing techniques. Faster

back-winding with the generation of less waste is possible. By the incorporation of suitable

lubricants in the dye bath, back-winding can even be eliminated and the dye package can be

utilized directly as the supply package for warping, weaving, knitting and tufting processes. High

degrees of levelness and reproducibility can be achieved, using dyes of intrinsically high fastness

properties. Many of the developments in package dyeing lead to savings in energy, water,

effluent, labour and space.

Whilst the traditional demarcation between hank and package dyeing routes has been

eroded, hand-knitting yarn, high-bulk acrylic yarns and carpet yarns were usually dyed in hank

form. These can now be dyed successfully in package form.

On the other hand, singles yarn, particularly cotton yarns and singles yarn for the

production of marls have been traditionally package-dyed. Viscose cake, sewing threads and

continuous filament yarn are most successfully dyed in package form. Ref: Practical Dyeing,

Volume 3, peg: 33

168

Types of yarn dyeing:

Package form(this type of yarn dyeing in Montex Fabrics Lt.)

Hank form

Organogram: AGM

Senior Manager

Manager



Supervisor (per shift) Supervisor (per shift)




169

Duties & Responsibilities of Production Officer:

To collect the necessary information and instruction from the previous shift for

the smooth running of the section.

To make the junior officer understand how to operate the whole production

process.

To match production sample with target shade.

To collect the production sample lot sample matching next production.

To observe dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process.

To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/GM for necessary action.

To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary.

To sign the store requisition and delivery challenge in the absence of PM

To execute the overall floor work.

To maintain loading/ unloading paper.

Any other assignment given by the authority

M/c specification Yarn Dyeing Machine:

1. M/c Name : TONG GENG

Capacity : 840 Kg

Built Year : 2003

Origin : CHAINA


Capacity : 800Kg

Built Year : 2005

Origin : CHAINA


Capacity : 750Kg

Built Year : 2004

Origin : CHAINA


Capacity : 500Kg

Built Year : 2006

Origin : CHAINA

170


Capacity : 850 Kg

Built Year : 2002

Origin : CHAINA


Capacity : 600 Kg

Built Year : 2006

Origin : CHAINA


Capacity : 650 Kg

Built Year : 2002

Origin : CHAINA


Capacity : 400Kg

Built Year : 2004

Origin : CHAINA


Capacity : 350Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHAINA


Capacity : 435 Kg

Built Year : 2002

Origin : CHAINA

11. M/c Name : DONG BAO DYEING M/C

Built Year : 2007

Capacity : 800kg

Origin : CHINA

12. M/c Name : FONGS

Capacity : 6 Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHINA


Capacity : 12 Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHINA

14. M/c Name : H.T.P

Capacity : 50 Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHINA

171


Capacity : 85 Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHINA


Capacity : 165 Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHINA


Capacity : 165 Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHINA


Capacity : 290 Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHINA


Capacity : 290Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHINA


Capacity : 435 Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHINA


Capacity : 650Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHINA

2 2. M/c Name : FONGS

Capacity : 840 Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHINA


Capacity : 12 Kg

Built Year : 2008

Origin : CHINA

172

Flow chart of yarn dyeing

Soft winding

Pre-paration

Batch preparation

Scouring

Pre-treatment

Bleaching

Dyeing

Hydro-extractor

Drying

Finishing

Hard winding

Packing

Working sequence of yarn dyeing:

Take the gray yarn for dyeing

Yarn sent to the soft winding section

Batching the yarn according to m/c capacity

Yarn load into the m/c

Pretreatment process are done

Dyeing

Washing off

De-watering

173

Dryer

Random (hard winding)

Packing

Raw materials:

Type of yarn Count

Cotton 20S ,24

S, 26

S, 28

S, 30

S, 32

S, 34

S, 36

S ,

Polyester 70D, 100D,150D

Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26

S

Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S, 26

S, 28

S

Cotton Mélange (100%) 24S, 26

S, 28

S

PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26

S, 28

S, 30

S

CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) 24S, 26

S, 28

S, 30

S

Chemical list

Sl

no

Agent Item Us $ Local

price

Country of origin

01. Wetting agent Feloson Nof 3.10 275.00 CHT Germany

02.

Leveling Meropen DPE 2.00 190.00 CHT Germany

Leveling Drimagen E2R 1.75 125.

00

Clariant /Swit

03. Sequestering Ladiquest 10970-u 1.65 190.00 Clariant /Swit

Sequestering Sirrix 2ud X 150.000 Clariant / Swit

Sequestering Kleerix 2ud 1.00 95.00 Rassary India

04. Stabilizer Jintex stab 1.1 130.00 Jintex Taiwan

05. Anticrease Jinsofter CAN 1.1 100.00 Jintex Taiwan

Anticrease JinfofterCBA 1.2 110.00 Jintex Taiwan

06. Peroxide killer Jintexyme OEM 1.9 180.00 Jintex Taiwan

07. Fixing Jinfix SR 1.9 190.000 Jintex Taiwan

Fixing Sandofix EC 2.95 350.000 Clariant /Swit

Fixing Lamfix L 1.45 155.00 Lambert Italy

08. Antifoaming An-Vo 3.25 270.000 Lambert Italy

Antifoaming Antimussol HTS 3.45 450.00 Clariant /Swit

09.

Softening Flakes SR-2 1.75 160.00 Forland china

Belfusin GT 1.35(EURO) 190.00 Germany

10. Enzyme Biopolish 200L 1.35(URO) 190.00 Novo- sri-lanka

174

11. Acetic acid 550.00 Taiwan

12. Hudrogen peroxide 500/MTX 74.00 Hansol korea

Hydrogen peroxide 450MTX 74.00 Dcc koria

13. Caustic soda 450MTX 43.00 AGC Chomical

Caustic soda

450MTX 43.00 Thailand chaina

14. Golden salt 1.4 India/ Chaina

15. Soaping DSP-1250 Lamberti/Italy

Winding section

Soft winding:

To transfer the yarn from cone to a suitable package (plastic or steel perforated bobbin) this can

be dyed easily.

Object of soft winding:

To transfer yarn from paper cone to suitable cone

To make sure the further process

Dye molecules easily penetrated to the yarn

These m/cs are available in winding section of Montex Fabric Ltd.

m/c name Brand name Country Speed w.speed

Soft winding Lee wha Korea 1000 m/min 800

max

Soft winding Coral textile China 1000 m/min 950

max

Soft winding Local India 800 m/min 750

max

Parts of winding machine: On of winding

Creeling:

Placement of full packages in position to unknown also removal of empty packages and

replacing them with full ones.

Piecing up:

Finding and connecting two ends of packages piecing up can be done by knotting or

splicing. The piecing up is carried out when end breaks or the creeling operation is complete.

Doffing:

It is the removal of full cones and there replacement with the empty ones.

Main parts of this machine

1) Feeler

2) Yarn clearer

3) Yarn guide

4) Tensioning device

175

1. Feeler

It activate when end breaks or case of supply bobbins becomes empty.

2. Yarn clearer

Yarn clearer could be of mechanical, electrical nature and are used to remove yarn

imperfections. I.e. slubs, thick and thin places.

3. Yarn guide

It is use to control the yarn path.

4. Tensioning device

These are used to give the winding yarn a proper tension for the firmness of the cones or

packages. The tensioning devices easily adjustable. The tension to the winding yarn is adjusted

according to the yarn strength as too high tension damages the yarn as produces hairiness.

Similarly using to low tension will result in an unstable yarn packages which will be difficult to

unwind.

MODEL GA014 (MD.PD) GROOVED DRUM WINDER

APPLICATIONS

Model GAY014 grooved drum winder is divided into two types: MD and PD, both are

suitable for winding of cotton, flax, wool and synthetic fibre which is supply bobbin for warping

and Knitting.

The structure of the machine is in a novel style and the electric controlling components are high

quality. This machine has attractive appearance, runs stably. The bobbin forming is superlative,

drum winder. This machine can be connected with several attachments. These are suitable for the

customer‘s different demand.

Winding m/c

176

177

Check Points: Clean over head blower

Water level in splicer

Clean the yarn cleaner

178

Some essential points in winding section: 1. Package density

2. Softness / hardness of package

3. Package portion density

4. Package weight

5. Package diameter

6. Traverse length or package weight

Package Density Calculation:

Package Weight= 850gm

Package dia =16.2 cm

Spring dia=7 cm

Hight of Package=14 cm

Mass

We Know that, Density =

Volume Here, Mass =Package weight – Bobbin weight

= 850-100

= 750 gm

Volume (v) = пr12 h – пr2

2 h here,

П = 3.1416

r1= radius of outer package

r2 = radius of inner package

h = length of package

So volume (v) = 3.1416× h (r12 – r2

2)

= 3.1416 ×14 (8.12-3.5

2)

= 2346.90 cm3

750

Density =

2346.90

=0.319 gm/ cm3

Length Calculation: Yarn count ×Yarn weight

Yarn length=

0.59059

30×1000

=

0.59059

3000

=

0.59059

=5079.66 m

179

Package portion density: One package divided into six parts. After one part of them should be unwounded then

calculate the density of the remaining (parts) on package. Repeated for next calculation to

determined density synchronize.

Portion density deviation should not be excited 20 gm/ cm3 because these values are suitable for

even dyeing.

Batch

Batching: Batching preparation is the process where visually inspected grey yarns are

divided into deferent batches with reasonable quantity in order to make them suitable for

the further operation.

Function or purpose of batch section:

- To receive the soft winding yarn package from winding section.

- To perform the winding inspection.

- To prepare the batch of yarn for dyeing according to the following criteria

Order sheet (Received from buyer)

Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)

M/C capacity

M/C available

Type of yarn(100% cotton, PET, PC, CVC)

- To send the yarn to the dyeing floor with batch card.

- To keep records for every yarn package before dying.

Proper batching criteria:

- To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.

- To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.

- To keep the no of batch as less as possible for same shade.

- To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

Process sequence of batch preparation:

Process sequence of batch preparation receive batch card from grey in-charge

Make the priority as per dyeing plan

Take one specific batch card

Read the batch card for own understanding

180

Check the availability of yarn

Take required quantity yarn from storage

Make required mp, of rope maintaining equal length

Load the yarn package into the carrier

Write down the weight against lot no, in the back side of the batch card

Write the total weight in batch card

Put signature and date

Fill up the production report form

Different parts of package dyeing m/c:

1. Material carrier 2. Tank 3. Mixer 4. Lid 5. Circulating pump 6. Vessel 7. Inverter 8. Sampling device 9. Heating exchange

181

.

Schematic diagram of a package dyeing m/c 1. Material carrier It carries the material i.e. cones or packages which are to be dyes. 2. Chemical tank All dyes and chemicals are first put in the tank in which mixing of dyes and chemicals take place. 3. Mixer Mixer is basically a motor which mix the dyes and chemicals in the chemical tank before their introduction in the machine. 4. Lid It is used for the opening and closing of the machine. 5. Circulating pump Circulating pumps which control the circulation of water. 6. Vessel It is a steel container in which yarn dyeing takes place. 7. Inverter Automatic device for the control of the differential pressure run by an inverter 8. Sampling device. For the lab testing samples of yarn are put in the sampling device. So that we prepare a sample without stoppage of machine. Usually 5gram sample is used. 9. Heating exchange. A device designed to transfer heat between two physically separated fluids; generally consists of a cylindrical shell with longitudinal tubes; one fluid flows on the inside, the other on the outside.

182

Preparation for Dyeing Scouring is difficult in package-dyeing m/cs, due to filtration by the yarns.

Excessively contaminated yarns cannot be successfully scoured without the

redeposition of dirt and oil. Yarns should therefore be dry-spun or spun with water

soluble lubricants. The lubricants and spin finishes from synthetic-fibre yarns are

readily removed by an alkaline detergent scour. Solvent-soluble contamination of

yarn for package dyeing should be below 0.5% and evenly distributed for level dyeing

to be obtained. Heavy deposits on the inside of packages can cause serious problems

and scouring is usually carried out with two-way flow. Regarding the preparation of

cotton yarns in hank form apply equally to packages.

Package specification for textured yarn:

Parameter Value

-Package weight 1.0 kg

-Package diameter 220 mm

-Package centre diameter 56 mm

-Package traverse 140 mm

-Angle of traverse wind 15°40‘

-Package density 220 g/l

-Spindle density of packages

after press-packing 280g/l

Specifications for staple yarn packages

Parameter Cone BI-KO PSDP

Pack diameter (cm) 20.3 (base) 20.3 20.3

Pack traverse (cm) 15.2 15.2 15.2

Pack weight (kg) 1.3 1.3 1.3

Pack density (g/l) 350 335 340

Spindle density (g/l) 0 375 405

Packs per spindle 5 7 9

Weight (kg) of yarn/spindle 6.5 9.1 11.7

Effective liquor ratio 21:1 15:1 11:1

Dyeing cost (% of PSDP) 148 118 100

183

Scouring and Bleaching

(Feloson. Nof) detergent / wetting agent 1.0 g/l

Sequestering agent 0.7g/l 60×10′

Caustic .7g/l

H2O2 2.0g/l

Stabilizer) sirix sb 1.6 g/l 1100×30′

Enzyme base c. acid Rinse 5′

Enzyme base

Per-oxide killer 0.5 g/l 55×5′

Curve: Acetic acid (for neutralization)

1100c ×30′

700c

600c× 10′ 55

0c ×5′

400c 5’

drain

Detergent caustics

Sequester H2O2 enzyme base per-

oxide killer

Wetting stabilizer acetic acid

184

General working sequence of yarn dyeing

1/3 salt dosing at o- steam

Dyeing chemical dosing

10′ run

Color dosing 30′ o- steam

2/3 salt dosing o – steam

Run 680c 20′ (850c× 20′ for Turkish color)

Cooling 580c (75

0c for turkesh )

Level check

Soda dosing at 580c× 50′ (75

0c× 50′ for turkesh shade)

Dyeing run 600c ×20′ (80

0c ×20′)

First sample check (if not ok)

Again run 20′ same temp

Sample check

Ok sample

Bath drop

Rainsing 10′

After 10′ drain

Water filling

Neutralization at 550c× 10′

Drain

185

Water filing

Wash chemical inject

N.B: washing chemical inject

Deep shade: 980c× 20′

Pale shade: 950c ×20′

Light shade: 900c ×20′

Dyeing process

For

Light shade less than 0.5%

Chemical+ 1/3 (00c× 10 minute)

Color dosing (00c× 20 minute)

Run ( 00c× 10minute)

2/3 salt dosing ( 00c× 10minute)

Run time( 680c× 20 minute)

Cooling 580c

Level check

Soda dosing ( 550c× 30 minute )

Run( 600C×20minute)

Sample check

186

Dyeing process

For dark shade more than 0.5%

Chemical + 1/3 alt (0

0c× 10 minute)

Color dosing (00c× 30minute)

Run (00c× 10 minute)

2/3 salt dosing (00c× 20minute)

Run time( 680c× 20 minute)

Cooling 580c

Level check

Soda dosing ( 580× 50minute )

Run( 600C×20minute)

Sample check

Washing

For royal/ turquoise/ black / red

Rinse(5+5)

Without drop 60‘× 5 drain

Acetic acid 55‘× 10‘

Soaping 98‘× 20‘

Hot wash 98‘× 20‘


Rinse 5‘

187

Light color 0.5

Rinse (5‘)




Rinse 5‘

Medium color

Rinse (7‘)




Rinse 5‘

Finishing

P

H check 5.5

LF Dosing 15‘- (0 curves)

10c/Minute

55‘× 15‘

Fixing Dosing 15‘- (0 curves)

55‘× 15‘

188

Dyeing process For Turquoise shade

Chemical + 1/3 alt (800c× 10 minute)

Color dosing (800c× 30minute)

Run (800c× 10 minute)

2/3 salt dosing (800c× 20minute)

Run time ( 850c× 25 minute)

Cooling 800c

Level check

¼ Soda dosing ( 800× 20minute )

Run time ( 800C×10minute)

¾ Soda dosing ( 800× 35minute)

Run ( 800C×30minute)

Sample check

Bath drop For turquoise shade

Rinse 10 minute

Rinse 5 minute (without drop)

55×5 minute (hot wash)

Drain

189

Acid (550c× 10minute)

980c× 25 minute (NSR Wash)

(1000c× 20minute)

(700c× 5 minute)

Rinse (5 minute)

Fastness check

POLYSTER DYEING

Hot wash 800-90

0c ×10′

Drain

PH control 4.5P

H

Dye chemical dosing

Temp rise

600c run the m/c 10′

Color dosing at 600c ×15′

Temp rise 1.50 c pre min

1000c × 5′ run

Temp 1350c

50′ run

Cooling at 800c

Sample check

Drain

190

Recipe: Hot wash 80

0c ×10′

Dyeing

Disperse blue KFBL

Disperse red KFB 1350C ×48′

Disperse yellow K4G

Chemical:

Ammunimu sulphte : 1 gm/l

Falic acid : 0.2 g/l

Pouder : 0.75g/l

DFT : 0.5 G/L

Caustic : 1g/l

Capa hydrogen 98 :1g/l

Acetic acid : 0.5 g/l

MELANGE/ WHATE

Detergent wash600c× 20′

Bath drop

Detergent +sequester 600c ×10′

Caustic dosing 600c× 5′

H2O2dosing at 700c ×10′

Stabilizer (Serrix SB)

Temp rise 1050 c run for 4o′

Cooling 800c

Level check

Syno white dosing 800c× 20′

Temp rise to 900c

191

Run the m/c for 20′

Cooling 800c

Sample check

Ok

Finishing Section

HYDROEXTRACTOR

M/c name : Hydro extractor

Brand name : STALAM

Capacity : 32 packages

Production per hr. : 360

HYDROEXTRACTOR

192

Dryer

Drying system use the delicate passage of hot air through the packages after

hydro extraction. This system is now the most common among the dyeing houses

around the world because of the very low energy consumption and the high quality of

drying.

Lay-out packages dryer

193

Principle of Operation

In a radio frequency drying system the RF generator creates an alternating electric

field between two electrodes. The material to be dried is conveyed between the

electrodes where the alternating energy causes polar molecules in the water to

continuously re-orient themselves to face opposite poles much like the way magnets

would move in an alternating magnetic field. The friction of this movement causes the

water in the material to rapidly heat throughout its entire mass.

Below is a depiction of a radio frequency drying system with a product between the

electrodes. Polar molecules within the product are represented by the spheres with "+"

and "-" signs connected by bars.

Operating principle of a radio frequency dryer.

The amount of heat generated in the product is determined by the frequency,

the square of the applied voltage, dimensions of the product and the dielectric "loss

factor" of the material which is essentially a measure of the ease with which the

material can be heated by this method. Because water is far more receptive than other

materials usually found in glass or ceramics, the water is preferentially heated and

evaporated. The reduction in loss factor as the material dries out provides a valuable

safeguard against overheating. This method of drying, therefore, is ideal for

applications where uniformity of product dryness is an important requirement.

194

The Benefits of RF Drying

Precise Control of Moisture Content and Uniformity.

In ceramics production the primary cost driver is product yield. Radio

frequency drying increases product yield because of the uniform level of dryness

throughout the product prior to the firing process. The moisture leveling phenomenon

of RF drying likewise occurs within each item being dried.

Reduction of Surface Cracking

Cracking caused by the stresses of uneven shrinkage in drying is eliminated

by RF drying. This is achieved by the RF dryer's even heating throughout the product

maintaining moisture uniformity from the center to the surface during the drying

process. Other factors may contribute to surface cracking, however, the control of

moisture uniformity achieved by RF drying has, by far, been the most significant in

solving such problems.

Energy Savings

The efficiency of a convection dryer drops significantly as lower moisture

levels are reached and the dried product surface becomes a greater thermal insulator.

At this point, but with more moisture to be removed, the RF dryer provides an energy-

efficient means of achieving the desired moisture objectives. Typically, one kilowatt

of RF energy will evaporate 1kg of water per hour.

Savings in Plant Space

Since heating begins instantaneously throughout the product, the dwell time

in an RF dryer is far less than in a conventional dryer. This translates into significant

savings in floor space. The drawing below shows a typical 150kW dryer, capable of

evaporating over 300 pounds of water per hour, to be 24 feet, 7 inches (7.5 meters)

long.

Calculation

Formula:

Dryer constant × dryer load (kw)

Dryer speed =

No of package per meter × wt.of water per package

Here,

Dryer constant = 1.1

Dryer load = 85kw

No of package per meter in dryer conveyor = 40 number

195

Example:

Let,

Grey weight = 380kg

Total package = 404

Bobbin weight = 100gm.

Grey weight

Package weight =

Total package

Package weight =380/404 = 0.940 kg

Package weight without bobbin wt. = 0.940-0.100 = 0.840kg

After dyeing package weight = 1175 gm

So,

After dyeing package weight = (1175- 100) gm = 1075gm = 1.075 kg

Water content per package = water with package – dry package

= 1.075- 0.840

=0.235 kg

Now, 1.1 ×85

Dryer speed=

40 ×0.235

= 9.94 meter per hr.

Random / Hard Winding

To transfer the dyed package yarn into suitable package for packing &

storage/ delivery the yarn.

This type of m/c is winding m/c.

After this section dyed yarn redy delivery.

196

197

Garment Concepts:

The word textile is form latin texere which means ―to weave‖, ―to braid‖, or

―to construct‖. The simplest textile art is felting, in which animal fibers are matted

together using heat and moisture. Most textile arts begin with twisting or spinning and

plying fibers to make yarn (called thread when it is very fine and rope when or is very

heavy). The yarn is then knotted, looped, braided, or woven to make flexible fabric or

cloth and cloth can be used to make clothing and soft furnishings. All of these items-

felt, yarn, fabric, and finished objects –are collectively referred to as textiles.

The textile arts also include those techniques which are used to embellish or decorate

textile – dyeing and printing to add color and pattern; embroidery and other types of

needlework; tablet weaving ; and lace – making . Construction methods such as

sewing, knitting, crochet, and tailoring, as well as the tools and techniques employed

(looms, sewing, needles, and printing) and the objects made (carpets, coverlets) all

fall under the category of textile arts.

History of Bangladesh garment industry

The history of the readymade garments sector in Bangladesh is a fairly recent

one. Nonetheless it is a rich and varied tale. The recent struggle to realize workers

rights adds an important episode to the story.

Below, we present a detailed narration of the evolution of the RMG sector

from its humble origins to the present day. The shift from a rural, agrarian economy to

an urban, industrial economy is integral to the process of economic development

(kaldor, 1966, 1967). although policymakers in the least developed countries (LDCs)

have , at various times, attempted to make agriculture the primary engine of economic

growth and employment generation, this approach has not worked, not least because

of the dual effect of increasing agricultural productivity in the LDCs and displacing

the rural labor force at the same time. Led by the example of the East Asian

economies, most LDCs now accept the need for greater industrialization as the fastest

path to economic growth. In particular, countries such as Japan, Taiwan and south

Korea have demonstrated that an export oriented industrial strategy can not only raise

per capita income and living standards in a relatively short time; it can also play a

vital role in modernizing the economy and integrating it with the global economic

system.

Bangladesh, one of the archetypal LDCs, has also been following the same

route for the last 25 years. Once derided as a ―basket-case‖ by Henry Kissinger (the

economist, 1996), the country stumbled across an economic opportunity in the late

1970s. New rules had come to govern the international trade in textiles and apparel,

allowing low-cost suppliers to gain a foothold in America and European markets.

Assisted by foreign partners and largely unaided by the government, entrepreneurs

seized the opportunity and exploited it to the fullest. Over a period of 25 years, the

garments export sector has grown into a $6 billion industry that employs over a

million people. In the process, it has boosted the overall economic growth of the

country and raised the viability of other export-oriented sectors.

The essay analyzes the processes by which global trading rules came to help

out a poor country like Bangladesh. it demonstrates the impact of the rule3 changes

on the garments sector, and the response of the sector to multiple challenges and

198

obstacles, it also discusses what steps Bangladesh should take in order to deal with the

full liberalization of the international garments trade, which occurred in January 2005

and which could potentially threaten the country‘s growth prospects, finally it details

some of the recent developments that have occurred since liberalization took effect.

Garments terms and definitions:

Across shoulders:

It is the measure of straight across back of garment, from one shoulder/

armhole point to other.

Across back:

It is the measure of straight across back of garment at midpoint of armhole

seam or edge from one side to the other.

Across front chest:

It is the measure of across front of garment at midpoint of armhole seam or

edge to the other.

Allowance:

When garment is made by adding extra dimension with the net dimension of

the garment is called allowance.

Armhole:

Align front and back armhole seams or edges or edges together. It is the

measure from underarm intersection point up to shoulder along front armhole seam or

edge, following curve.

Approved sample:

According to all the required specifications the sample which is approved by

buyer is called approved sample.

Accessories or trimmings:

Without fabric all are accessories. It includes: therade, button, interlining,

zipper, main label, care label, tissue paper, ball head pin, silica gee bag and so on.

N.S.A= No seam allowance

L.D.C= Least developed country

E.P.B= Export promotion bureau

B.G.W.U.C= Bangladesh garments worker unit council

Bodies:

The portion of the ladies apparels from the neck down to waist.

Blind stitch:

It is a special type of stitch that can not seen from the face side of the fabric

but can easily seen from the back side.

Back stitch:

A kind of hand stitch for sewing appeals, which could also do by m/c

Collar:

It is part of apparel which stays spread around the neck.

Collar stand:

It is apart of the collar which stands vertical along the neck.

Crutch/crotch:

The place or area along which the inside two legs joins together.

199

Color bleeding:

It is the pigment or dye or color of a cloth that is partly gone into the water if

such colored cloth is soaked in water or solvent or suck color or pigment dye come

our from one place to another and is stuck place near by suck characteristics is color

bleeding.

Crease:

Any kind of folding in cloths.

Crocking:

The act of taking out color from the dry and wet cloth by rubbing or scouring.

C & F:

Clearing related with importer and forwarding related with exporter. If the

price of the goods is mentioned in invoice including transport cost then it is called

C&F.

C.I.F:

If the price of the goods in mentioned in invoice including transport cost ans

insurance cost then it is called C.I.F.

Chest/bust:

Garment closed measure straight across front of garment at lowest point of

armholes or at specified level.

Counter sample:

The sample which is followed by the approved sample is called counter

sample.

Category:

Category is a number which indicates what type of fabric is used for making

the particular garment and it also indicates the type of this garment.

Drape:

The state or quality of haw a hung end of a cloth comes of when such cloth

comes when such cloth is hung from either end. The texture quality of the fabric

staple kind and also the finishing determine the draping quality of cloth in question.

Drop loop:

The technique of placing belt loop a little below from the upper end of the

waistband of the trouser (normally 1-2 cm). Drop loop stops the possibility of belt

moving above the waist band.

Durable press:

It is a particular kind of finishing treatment by which it is possible to give

specific sharp size and crease to the cloth or the apparel. By virtue of he pleat etc,

could be made permanent and through use and wash of the apparel.

Drape:

It is a character of fabric indicative of flexibility and suppleness. The degree to

which a fabric falls into graceful folds which hung or arranged in different positions.

Facing:

Lining or trim used to protect fabric edges in a garment e.g. collars, cuffs,

plackets.

Fusing:

The term generally refers to partial melting. In bonding, fabrics layers are

joined together by fusion of an adhesive under heat and pressure.

200

Gauge:

In knitted fabrics, it is a measure of fineness or number of Wales per unit of

width across the fabric. Higher gauge numbers indicate finer texture.

G/D:

Abbreviation for grams per denier.

Grain line:

Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called grain line. When pattern pieces

are laid down during marker making over the clothm the grain line should be parallel

to the warp if the fabric is woven and wales in case of knitted fabric. Only the

exception is seen for bias cut.

Grading:

When different sizes of patterns are made from the master pattern of the

garment is called grading.

Handle:

It is a characteristic of fabrics that is perceived by touching, squeezing or

rubbing them.

Hip:

At a specified level down from waist seam and garment closed, measure

straight across garment, from one edge to the other.

Interlining:

Interlining is one kind of accessories which is used between two layers of

fabric in garments to support, re-enforce and control areas of garments and to retain

actual shape. It may be applied on base fabric by sewing and bonding.

The fabrics which are used ads interlining is made from cotton, nylon, polyester, wool

and viscose. Sometimes finishing is necessary to improve its properties i.e. shrink

resist finish, crease resist finish.

Inseam length:

Along inside seam of leg, measure from crotch seam down to bottom edge of

leg opening. Rib/elastic bands included in this measurement.

Lining:

A generic term for fabrics used to cover inner surface of products, especially

the inner face employs different materials from the outer surface.

L/C:

Letter of credit. It is a commitment by an opening bank on behalf of the

Importer in favor of the exporter that the bills drawn by them on the importer

countries covering the shipment of specified items and quality of goods within stated

period will be paid in exchange of documents under certain items and condition.

Line number:

It is unit of measure use in Canada equivalent to an eighth of an

inch(3.175cm). also French unit of measure, now replaced by metric measurements;

was used for measuring ribbon, tape and other narrow fabrics. \it is the measuring unit

of the button. It indicates the diameter of button. If diameter increases, ligne number

also increases.

We know,

11mm diameter = 16 ligne

1mm diameter = 16/11 ligne or 1.46 ligne

Marker:

Marker is a thin paper which contains all the components of all sizes of a

particular style.

201

Pattern:

It is a hard paper which is made by following all the specifications of each and

individual components.

Production pattern:

It is a pattern of a particular style with net dimension and allowance.

Sleeve length:

It is the measure from centre back neck seam or edge straight across to shoulder /

armhole point, along sleeves fold line down to bottom edge of sleeve opening.

Sleeve inseam:

Measure from under armhole seam down to bottom edge of sleeve opening

(cuff included), with vent closed (if applicable).

Waist:

Regular waistband or elastic relaxed, garment closed and with front and back

waistband edges even at the top, measure across the middle of waistband or along

elastic relaxed, from one edge to the other.

Working pattern:

It is a pattern of a particular style with net dimension.

Production pattern= working pattern+ allowance.

Sequence of garments manufacturing:

Operation Job Method

01. design/ sketch It is given by buyers to

manufacturers containing sketches

including measurements of the

style.

Manual/computerized

02. Basic Block Without any allowance Manual/computerized

03. Working pattern Assimilating of diagram of net

dimension on paper each and

individual part which is called

pattern and when we move with it

throughout the whole

manufacturing processes. We term

it working pattern.

Manual/computerized

04. Sample making After getting all the specs the

sample is made and sent to the

buyers for approval to rectify the

faults.

Manual

05. Basic manufacturing

deference

The critical path is identified I.e.

the problems during the several

operations.

Manual

06. Approved sample After rectify the faults, sample is

again sent to buyers. If it is o.k.

then it is called approved sample.

Manual

07. Costing Fabric required

Making change

Trimmings

Profits

Manual

202

08. Production pattern Add allowance with net

dimension.

Manual/computerized

09. Grading It is done according to different

size.

Manual/computerized

10. Marker making Marker is a thin paper which

contains all the components of all

sizes of a particular style.

Manual/computerized

11. Fabric spreading Fabric is spread in a lay form. Manual/computerized

12. Cutting To cut fabric according to the

dimension by special type of

cutter.

Manual/computerized

Different section in garment:

There are mainly four sections in garments given as follows:

1. Sample section: Design to marker making.

2. Cutting section: marker making to sorting and bundling.

3. Sewing section: Sewing.

4. Finishing section: Ironing / packing.

203

204

History:

Textile printing is the most versatile and important of the methods used for

introducing colour and design to textile fabrics. Early men and women used the

colorants that were available to them, such as charcoal and coloured earths (ochres),

mixed with oils and fats, applying them at first with their fingers and sticks to a

variety of substrates. Staining of fabrics with plant extracts provided a different

approach; patterns could be produced by applying beeswax as a resist to the dye

liquor or by tying threads tightly around the areas to be resisted. The realisation that

certain colourless materials could be used as mordants to fix some plant dyes was a

vital step in the prehistory of dyeing and printing. The discovery that different

mordants, applied first, gave different colours with the same dye (for example, from

the madder root) must have seemed litle short of magical and suggested a style of

printing (the dyed style) that was to become of cardinal importance.

Where this style of printing originated – whether in India, Egypt, China or elsewhere

– is not clear. Brunello states that an early variety of cotton dyed with madder around

3000 BC was found in jars in the Indus valley. Taylor gives evidence of madder on

flax found in Egypt and dated at 1400 BC. In China the dyeing of silk was developed

very early, and China is credited with the invention of paper printing and therefore

may well have seen the birth of fabric printing.

Textile printing: The printing is described as localized dyeing i.e. dyes or pigments are applied

locally or discontinuously to produce the various designs. The main objective in

textile printing is the production of attractive design with well defined boundaries

made by the artistic arrangement of a motif in one or more colors.

Duplex Printing

Printing is done on both sides of the fabric either through roller printing

machine in two operations or a duplex printing machine in a single operation.

Stencil Printing

The design is first cut in cardboard, wood or metal. The stencils may have fine

delicate designs or large spaces through which colour is applied on the fabric. Its use

is limited due to high costs involved.

Transfer Printing

The design on a paper is transferred to a fabric by vaporization. There are two

main processes for this- Dry Heat Transfer Printing and Wet Heat Transfer Printing.

In Conventional Heat Transfer Printing, an electrically heated cylinder is used that

presses a fabric against a printed paper placed on a heat resistant blanket. In Infrared

Heat Vacuum Transfer Printing, the transfer paper and fabric are passed between

infrared heaters and a perforated cylinder which are protected from excessive heat by

a shield.

The Wet Heat Transfer Printing uses heat in a wet atmosphere for vaporizing the dye

pattern from paper to fabric.

205

Blotch Printing

It is a direct printing technique where the background color and the design are

both printed onto a white fabric usually in a one operation. Any of the methods like

block, roller or screen may be used.

Airbrush (Spray) Painting

Designs may be hand painted on fabric or the dye may be applied with a

mechanized airbrush which blows or sprays color on the fabric.

Electrostatic Printing

A dye- resin mixture is spread on a screen bearing the design and the fabric is

passed into an electrostatic field under the screen. The dye- resin mixture is pulled by

the electrostatic field through the pattern area onto the fabric.

Photo Printing

The fabric is coated with a chemical that is sensitive to light and then any

photograph may be printed on it.

Differential Printing

It is a technique of printing tufted material made of yarns having different

dyeing properties such as carpets. Up to a ten color effect is possible by careful

selection of yarns, dyestuffs and pattern.

Warp Printing

It is roller printing applied to warp yarns before they are woven into fabric.

Tie Dyeing

Firm knots are tied in the cloth before it is immersed in a dye. The outside of

the immersed portion is dyed but the inside is not penetrated. There are various forms

of Tie dyeing like Ikat Dyeing where bundles of warp and/ or weft yarns are tie dyed

prior to their weaving. In Plangi Dyeing the gathered, folded or rolled fabric is usually

held with stitching to form specific patterns.

Batik Dyeing

It is a resist dyeing process. Designs are made with wax on a fabric which is

then immersed in a dye. The unwaxed portion absorbs the color.

Jet Spray Printing

Designs are imparted to fabrics by spraying colors in a controlled manner

through nozzles.

Digital printing

In this form of printing micro-sized droplets of dye are placed onto the fabric

through an inkjet print head. The print system software interprets the data supplied by

a cademic_Textiledigital image file. The digital image file has the data to control the

droplet output so that the image quality and color control may be achieved. This is the

latest development in textile printing and is expanding very fast. Digital Textile

Printing

206

Printing ingredients: Type of specific formulation used depends on the fiber, the colorant system

used and to some extent the type of printing machine.

Typical ingredients used include:

1. Dyes or pigments

2. Thickeners

3. Binders, cross linking agents

4. Sequestering agents

5. Dispersing agents

6. Water retaining agents

7. Adhesion promoters

8. Defoamers

9. Catalysts

10. Hand modifiers

Some basic trams and definition:

Thickener:

Thickeners are adhesive substances used in making viscose printing paste in

water. Thickener is used to impart stickiness and plasticity to the printing paste so that

can be applied on the fabric surface without spreading and bleeding and be capable of

maintaining the design outlines under high pressure.

Binder: A material, usually nearly colorless, that is typically used to attach a pigment

to fabric. Binders are more-or-less ―glue‖ to hold the pigment in place. Paints consist

of pigments mixed with binders. Many binders used in textile paints are acrylic

polymers e.gMelamine formaldehyde resin.

Wetting agent:

Wetting agent reduces the surface tension, so that dye molecules can easily

penetrate into materials. Wetting agent helps alkali to remove oil, wax from material.

Acid:

A chemical that will produce a pH of less than 7 in water solution

Many acids are used in dyeing. They include acetic acid, citric acid, formic acid,

hydrochloric acid and sulfuric acid. Several other compounds, such as sodium

bisulfate and ammonium sulfate form acids in solution through hydrolysis. When

making solutions of acids or when diluting concentrated acids, always add the acid to

water, never the other way around. This is because some acids produce a great deal of

heat when they mix with water - so much that a small amount of water added to a

large amount of acid may actually boil and cause extremely dangerous spattering.

Alkali:

A subclass of base, though often used to refer to any base Partly because the

term ―basic‖ is often rather confusing, ―alkaline‖ is often used to refer to solutions

that are basic - having pH greater than 7.

207

Catalyst:

A chemical that speeds up a reaction without itself being consumed in the

reaction. Catalysts are not common in dyeing, but are used in fabric preparation and

finishing

Carrier:

With respect to disperse dyes, a chemical that aids dyeing at moderate

temperature. In order to dye polyester with disperse dye in a reasonable time at the

boil; it is necessary to use a carrier. Exactly how the carrier works seems to be a

matter of some controversy, but it may work by swelling the fibres so that the dye can

penetrate. The carrier will eventually evaporate from the fibre after dyeing is

complete. Carriers are obsolescent in industrial process, partly because they are quite

noxious and environmentally undesirable. Be sure to read and understand the MSDS

for any carrier chemical you contemplate using. {Rev 2.0.0a}

Dyestuff or pigments Depending on the nature of the fiber on which the printing is done, suitable

dyes or pigments are selected. Pigment color can be used for printing on all types of

fibers. Reactive, vat or azoic colors are used for cotton; disperse dyes for polyester

and acid dyes and basic dyes for wool and silk.

Defoaming agent

Formation of foam during print paste preparation and application is quite

common but should be avoided. Foam may produce specky dyeing. The antifoaming

agents help in foam generation.

Oxidizing or reducing agent

They are used in printing with solubilised vat colors and also in discharge and

resist printing. Discharging agents such as Sodium sulphoxylate formaldelyde

(Rongalite) are used in the discharge printing.

Hygroscopic agents

The function of hygroscopic agents is to take up sufficient amount of water

(moisture) during steaming to give mobility to lthe dyes to move into the fibre. Eg.

Urea and Glycerin.

Dispersing Agent

Dispersing agents are necessary in the print paste to prevent aggregation of the

dyestuff in the highly concentrated pastes.

E.g. Diethylene glycol

Preservatives Preservatives are used to prevent the action of bacteria and fungus to make it

dilute. Eg. Salicylic acid.

.

208

Fixation methods 1. Atmospheric steam

treatment at 212 degrees f with saturated steam

used with

- Direct dyes

- Vat dyes

- Napthol dyes

- Acid dyes

- Cationic dyes

- Reactive dyes

festoon steamer most common equipment

Acid agar for acid dyes

2. Pressure steam

treatment at 230 degrees f under pressure

used with disperse dyes

Turbo-autoclave most common equipment.

3. High temperature steam

treatment with superheated steam at temperature up to 420 degrees f

used with disperse dyes and pigments

can also be used as an atmospheric steamer

4. Dry heat

treatment with dry heat at temperatures up to 420 degrees

used with disperse dyes and reactive dyes.

Classification of screen printing:

Screen printing

Flat screen printing Rotary screen printing

Hand screen printing

Semi auto screen printing

Fully auto screen printing

209

Organogram: GM

AGM

Manager



Supervisor (per shift) Supervisor (per shift




210

Screen store Washing place

M/c layout:

Table-1 Table-2

Flat screen

Printing

Table-5

Table-3 Table-4

Manager room

3 4

2 1

Scr

een

pre

. ro

om

D

irk

ro

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m

Chem

ical

roo

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211

Steps in printing process 1. Preparation of print paste

2. Printing of fabric

3. Drying

4. Fixation of dyestuff

5. Washing – off

Sequence of printing:

Count garment parts

Screen preparation

Printing paste preparation

Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked

portion

Printing the garment part by using screen

Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow

Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 - 180

0

c

Inspection is done in qualify control department

Screen Preparation

For Flat Bed Screens

A piece of nylon bolting cloth or metal gauge (phosphobraze) is stretched and

nailed to strong wooden frame, strengthened by metal brackets at the corner. The

frames are usually 26‖ x 55‖ (measured externally) and 23‖ x 52‖ (measured

internally) for printing45‖ wide cloth. When metal frame is used for making the

screen, the bolting cloth maybe fixed to the frame by using a solution of polyvinyl

acetate in a suitable solvent.

Photochemical method is the most widely used method for preparing screen.

This is based on the principle that when a coating of solution ammonium dichromate –

gelatin or ammonium dichromate – polyvinyl alcohol is dried and exposed to light,

Insolubilisation takes place. The photosensitive coating may be given to the bolting

Cloth, fixed to the screen frame, dried and exposed to light after keeping in contact

with a positive film and after insolubilisation of exposed portion, the unexposed

212

photosensitive coating may be given to the bolting cloth, fixed to the screen frame,

dried and exposed to light after keeping in contact with a positive film and after

insolubilisation of exposed portion, the unexposed photosensitive coating is washed

out leading the blocking of the interstices of the cloth at the exposed portions and

keeping them open (for forcing of the print paste later while printing) at the

unexposed portion. The sensitizing solution may be prepared as follows:

Chrome – Gelatin Solution A

200 g pure gelatin

500 g boiling water

700 g Solution B

70 g Ammonium dichromate

150 g boiling water

80 g liquor ammonia

300 g Solution A and Solution B are mixed in dark room.

Chrome-polyvinyl alcohol solution

600 g polyvinyl alcohol (15% solution)

120 ml ammonium dichromate (33% solution)

240 ml cold water

1 litre with cold water

After applying the solution to the screen cloth, it is dried in the dark room at

room temperature. The positive of the design is placed on a glass-topped table and the

dried photosensitive screen is placed over it. The exposure is started from under the

glass table using mercury vapor lamp or fluorescent tube lights with uniform intensity

of light all over the screen. The screens are then washed in the dark, first with hot and

then with cold water. The hardening of the insolubilised chrome-gelatine complex is

done by placing the screen in a solution containing.

50 g chrome alum

50 g formaldehyde

25 g sodium dichromate

1 liter

For 5 minutes at room temperature, washed with cold water and dried. In the

case of Chrome-polyvinyl alcohol complex, the hardening is done in a solution

containing,

50 ml acetaldehyde

50 ml Isobutyraldehyde

80 ml water

20 ml sulphuric acid (168 Tw)

1 litre with cold water

It is boiled at 15 to 25 degree C for 1 to 2 hours. It is then washed with cold

water and dried. (Ref: PRINTING PROCESSES AND MACHINERIES, 1st

edition by Mr.Praveen D. Nagrajan)

213

Preparation of printing paste:

First the required thickener paste is made prior to prepare printing paste. The printing

paste is traditionally made by weighting out and, if necessary, dissolving the colorants

and auxiliary chemical then stirring them into the required weight of pre-prepared

thickener. Then the pre- prepared thickener is added to the colorants solution and

mixed well to prepare printing paste. Generally, weight of the ingredients of the

printing paste is calculated on the basis of 1kg/100g

Typical pigment print formulation:

Chemical dry weight

Pigment 10%

Dispersing agent 3%

Soap/oleic acid / ammonia 2%

Defoamer 1\10%

Latex (binder) 5-10%

Casein 1%

Carbopol 1-2%

Solvent 2%

Water 77%

Types of printing used in Montex Fabrics Ltd.

Hand screen printing

Flat screen printing

Foil printing

Flock printing

Hand screen printing:

Material required:

Printing table (100-200 m 1-1.5m)

Screens (1-3 color)

Bed on the printing table

Back grey

Fabric to be printed

Squeeze

Drying system under the table

Hand washing in a tank or washing

Hand screen printing:

Process:

Printing is carried out on a flat, solid table covered with a layer of resilient flat

and a washable blanket (coated with neoprene rubber).

The fabric to be printed is laid on the table and stuck to the blanket directly

with a water soluble adhesive.

Alternatively the fabric is combined with a back gray.

The screens must be positioned carefully on the fabric.

214

The area printed by a screen (screen repeat) must fit exactly alongside the

adjacent one.

Now print paste is taken on the screen.

Force this print paste through the open areas of the screen with a flexible,

synthetic rubber squeezer

The rubber blade is drawn steadily across the screen at a constant angle (about

400) and pressure.

Two strokes of squeezing given better result.

Two very even print 4 strokes are also done.

PROCESS OF SCREEN PRITING

SCREEN PAPER SIDE SCREEN SQUEEZE SIDE

ORIGINAL PRINT PRINT ON FABRIC

215

216

Flat bed pressure m/c:

217

In this m/c the glue is applied in liquid form by a squeegee, while in other

machines the belts are pre-coated with thermoplastic glues. In this case the textile is

heated and then it is squeezed by a roller or simply pressed against the rubber-coated

belt, causing the glue to soften and instantly adhere.

After printing, the screens and the application system are washed out. It is

common practice to squeeze the color from the screens back into the printing paste

mixing containers before washing them. Specially developed Screen printing machine

for Flat printing application

Features

These flat screen printing machines are extensively used for printing on flat surfaces

like-Metal, Glass, Paper, Board and PCB. These are highly cost effective as these

require less power. The salient features are as below:

Pneumatically drive.

Low noise

Printing table with X, Y and Rotation for accurate registration.

Printing table with powerful Vacuum to hold the substrate on to its

positionhile printing.

Maximum Substrate height 40 mm.

Squeegee /coater pressure with fine adjustment.

Angle can be set as per requirement.

Applications

Letterhead, wedding cards printing

Stickers printing

PCB printing

Metal sheet printing

Glass printing

Scale printing

Printing on Plastic plates

T.V Cabinet

Washing machine panels

Industrial control Panels

Membrane switches

Battery containers

Umbrella panels

T-shirts

Coaster printing

Container lids

Tube light fittings

Speedometer dials

Car stickers

218

219

ETP Montex Fabrics Ltd. has newly joined for textile service among the world.

This is fully export oriented knit composite Textile industry. This manufacturing

industry deals with so many known buyers like H&M, G-Tex, AMC, and Hense and

so on. This manufacturing industry is well organized with maintaining all the

compliance and environmental issue. They established a biological Effluent

Treatment Plant with latest technology. They treated 180 meter cube of effluent per

hour. Their wet processing unit is of 18 ton/day capacity. For the better quality they

use a high liquor ratio than the suggestion of dyeing machine manufacturer. So they

have to treat more effluent than the theoretical demand. Effluent character of Montex

Fabrics Ltd. is discussed;

Mainly they use following chemicals for wet processing:

1. Detergent (non-ionic).

2. Anti creasing agent.

3. Hydrogen per oxide.

4. Caustic soda.

5. Soda ash.

6. Common salt

7. Glaubers‘ salt

8. CLR ( known as organic exhausting agent for dyes)

9. Per oxide killer.

10. Washing off agent.

11. Acetic Acid.

12. Softener.

13. Anti foaming agent

14. Optical brightener.

15. Hydrose

16. Strong alkaline soap (NSR).

Without these they use a lot of chemicals those vary due to order requirement.

They use only two types of dyes; reactive dyes & disperse dyes. Dyes and chemicals

are soluble in water or in colloidal state. Some of suspended solid like wastages are

also flow with raw effluent. They are mainly cotton fibers‘ flocks or the yarn. The raw

color of effluent is brown/ blue / black. All the liquors are coming through same drain

of wet processing unit. So rinsed liquor, dye liquor, soaping liquor, scouring liquor,

acid liquor all are getting mixed from the very beginning. The temperature, pH, BOD

& COD of raw effluent liquor is given in the following table. In Bangladesh basically

these four criteria are controlled for textile effluent.

220

Basic characteristics of raw effluent

Sl

NO CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS

PARAMETERS UNIT AMOUNT

1. pH 8.2

2. Suspended solids mg/L 200-400

3. Biological Oxygen Demand(BOD) mg/L 180

4. Chemical Oxygen Demand(COD) mg/L 417

PHYSICAL CHARECTERISTICS

5. Color Brown to black

6. Odour Not distinct

7. Temperature 48

Picture of raw effluent

221

THE BIOLOGICAL METHOD FOR TREATING

TEXTILE EFFLUENT

Nature recovers a lot of pollution from the very beginning of earth. As the

energy transfer from one stage to another by means of different action, bacteria are

very much essential living being of earth. It helps us a lot to prevent pollution.

Actually when wastages can not control by the environment then that wastages are

termed as pollutants. In textile wet processing basically organic compounds are used

to control process. How ever inorganic compounds are also essential. Mainly two

methods are applicable to remove such organic compounds one is by coagulation

which is followed by flocculation and to sediment. And another is degradation of

organic compound by means of bacteria. Here mainly organic compounds are used to

be the food of bacteria nothing else. Here sludge are formed which are sediment by

means of gravity. Later the sludge are separated and deposited in sludge tank. But

bacteria can not control the pH value and can not reduce the chemical oxygen demand

(COD). For this manner some of acid addition is required. If acid is not required to

neutralize the effluent it must require for providing acidic medium for bacterial

action. In biological treatment COD is controlled by aeration by means of blower.

The biological method for effluent treating is discussed below according to the ETP

of Montex Fabrics Ltd. Limited.

Aeration tank sludge returning tank Equalization tank

Screening

Neutralization tank Storage tank

Picture: cross section of screening to aeration tank.

222

Screening:

Screen is the synonyms of filtration. Here action is nothing but the filtration or

separation of suspended solid from the liquor or raw effluent. Separately three

screening chamber is used to filter suspended solid. Drain from two different units has

a net of iron having 1 sq. inches of each hole. It separates the different foreign

materials like bulk of trees, leaves, polyethylene bag etc. picture will describe better.

Picture: filtration of suspended solid by iron net

To treat 100 cubic meter per hour, here three screening chamber are used.

Suspended solid which can pass through the first filter are finally filtered here. The

screen has around 250-300 slits per sq inches. This screening system has automatic

wiping action with four wipers or brush. Cotton fibers, yarns with the liquor are

deposited on the screen and raw effluent passes through the slits. This is a simple

filtering method. The screen is curved around 90 degree angle (ie, quarter part of

circle). Curved screen provide a strong control of wiping by rotating wiper. Materials

deposited here are calculated for a cubic meter effluent load, which is, 276 mg. there

is a tray just above the screen in which suspended solids are deposited.

Suspended solid

Picture: deposition of suspended solid from the screen

223

Wiper is rotating at an interval of 9 minutes for 3 minutes at 1.5 rpm speed. Its

rotation speed duration of pause is regulated on the basis suspended solid‘s load. The

next picture will provide a clear conception.

Tray deposited suspended solid Screen

Picture: Screening of raw effluent.

Raw effluent

Wiper

After screening of raw effluent raw effluent is stored in storage tank.

Storage tank:

Raw effluent is stored after screening in the storage tank. There are two

storage tanks. Delivery of raw effluent from storage tank is carried out by means of

submergible pump. It has an automatic lifting plan to deliver raw effluent into the

next section of ETP. This automation is programmed according to the effluent load in

the storage tank which ensures an uniform flow of effluent for every section. The

pump gets off automatically after lifting a certain volume of effluent which is varied

according to effluent load. In each turn this lifting pump arrangement is allowed to

discharge 50 cubic meter of stored effluent. In between two storage tanks there is a bi-

pass channel. Through which stored effluent can pass from one store to another. Bi-

pass is used when any of the lifting pumps is off for maintenance.

224

Pictures: storage tank 1& 2

Picture: delivery from storage tank.

Equalization chamber:

Pictures: equalization tank

225

The term equalization means to make equity. Here equalization means to form

an identical effluent of different characteristics. The effluent comes from storage tank

are mixed homogeneously. The effluents from different stages like scouring, dyeing,

soaping etc. are mixed homogeneously here. That‘s why it is also termed as

Homogenizing chamber. The treatment of equalization chamber is basically

depending on character of effluent. Here temperature of effluent is decreased. This

chamber equalized with respect to its characteristics, homogeneity, flow and a

uniform pollution load as well as to make bacteria acclimatized.

In this ETP two vertical agitator and flow jet are used homogenize to mix the

effluent. These two agitators are not using as they can not carry any advantage for the

treatment. Water jet is carrying out the mixing action continuously and it is placed at

the bottom of the chamber. If the mixing is not accomplished homogenously then it

will hamper the further treatments resulting inefficient treatment.

As the temperature of the effluent is higher than the atmospheric temperature

it is necessary to be reduced to meet the temperature demand of the bacterial action as

well as the environment.

The volume of effluent treated is 2000 cubic meter. Here no cooling

mechanism is added as this chamber possess 200 sq meter of open area which is

directly in contact with air. Again the effluent is treated here for 20 hours which is

another reason for the effluent being cooled. So the cooling action for the effluent is

carried out naturally. It should be noted that the movement of molecules provide

reduction of their internal energy. Due to the flow jet the effluent keeps on flowing

which results the reduction of the thermal energy thereby dropping temperature.

Neutralization Chamber:

Neutralization refers to preparing neutral. Here neutralization stands for

neutralizing the effluent solutions‘ pH value. First of all we are discussing about pH.

A term used to express the intensity of the acid or alkalinity source. pH represents the

226

effective concentration (activity) of hydrogen ions (H+) in water. This concentration

could be expressed in the same kind of units as other dissolved species, but H+

concentrations are much smaller than other species in most waters. The activity of

hydrogen ions can be expressed most conveniently in logarithmic units. pH is defined

as the negative logarithm of the activity of H+ ions:

pH = -log [H+]

Where [H+] is the concentration of H

+ ions in moles per liter (a mole is a unit

of measurement, equal to 6.022 x 1023

atoms). Because H+ ions associate with water

molecules to form hydronium (H3O+) ions, pH is often expressed in terms of the

concentration of hydronium ions. In pure water at standard atmospheric temperature,

H3O+ and hydroxyl (OH

-) ions exist in equal quantities; the concentration of each is

1.0 x 10-7

moles per liter (mol/L). Therefore, pH of pure water = -log (1.0 x 10-7

) = -(-

7.00) = 7.00. Because pH is defined as –log [H+], pH decreases as [H

+] increases

(which will happen if acid is added to the water). Since pH is a log scale based on 10,

the pH changes by 1 for every power of 10 changes in [H+]. A solution of pH 3 has an

H+

concentration 10 times that of a solution of pH 4. The pH scale ranges from 0 to

14. However, pH values less than 0 and greater than 14 have been observed in very

rare concentrated solutions.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (U.S. EPA) sets a secondary

standard for pH levels in drinking water: the water should be between pH 6.5 and 8.5.

But the Department Of Environment (BD) suggests the pH value in between 6- 9.

Very high (greater than 9.5) or very low (less than 4.5) pH values are

unsuitable for most aquatic organisms. Young fish and immature stages of aquatic

insects are extremely sensitive to pH levels below 5 and may die at these low pH

values. High pH levels (9-14) can harm fish by denaturing cellular membranes.

Changes in pH can also affect aquatic life indirectly by altering other aspects

of water chemistry. Low pH levels accelerate the release of metals from rocks or

sediments in the stream. These metals can affect a fish‘s metabolism and the fish‘s

ability to take water in through the gills, and can kill fish fry.

In cotton dyeing industry effluent is always alkaline then water in nature. So it

is required to reduce the pH value. For reducing, acid dozing is essential according to

the pH and effluent character.

Here in this ETP no acid dozing is required for neutralizing. As the effluent

possesses a standard value of pH ie, 8.2 where as the standard value of pH is 6-9

(Recommended by DOE) for treated effluent. But there is a pipe line for acid dozing.

If the pH value rises than the limit 8.9 then automated acid dozing will be started.

This automation is controlled at panel board. In panel board there is an alarm to

inform operator. However from the beginning of ETP they did not need to apply acid

for neutralization. This due to their high liquor ratio at every stage of wet processing

and washing water, rinsing water, dyeing water etc. are directly discharged to ETP. It

should be informed that they use a lot of water for rinsing purpose. In neutralization

tank effluent is kept for 6 minutes and volume of effluent is 10 cubic meter.

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Sludge return tank:

First of all we are discussing about sludge. The settable solids separated from

the effluent during sedimentation (clarification). This is simply the degraded part of

polymers. The sludge is very toxic in nature and needs to be dealt with very carefully.

Under no circumstances it should be mix with the environment again Sludge return

tank is not common among biological effluent treatment plans. How ever it brings

profit for a knit dyeing unit. We know that effluent discharging from knit dyeing unit

possesses low quantity of food for bacteria. For that manner here developer decided to

recycle the sludge. Here not only sludge is returned but also food for bacteria is also

provided. And Sulphuric acid is also given here. As for bacterial action pH around

6.5.

Picture: sludge return tank

Nutrients delivery

Sludg returning

Acid dozing

In sludge return tank sludge, nutrients and acids are given for the bacterial

action. It is about 60 cubic meters in volume. And effluent is treated here for 36

minutes. As nutrient urea is provided, at 2.706 gm per cubic meter of effluent, TSP at

1.875 gm per cubic meter of effluent and 98% pure sulphuric acid at 72 cc per cubic

meter of effluent.

228

Picture: sludge return tank.

Effluent flows from neutralization tank to sludge return tank by means of two

pumps. This addition of sludge return is a beneficial step for environment. And

quality of treatment results best by means of bacteria. If the sludge does not return

then a significant amount of bacteria may die due to food, as a result bacteria can not

get when it requires. Sludge returning helps bacteria to run its life cycle. It should be

noted that manufacturer demanded that sludge is a poor food for bacteria then the

polymeric compounds found in effluent. As knit dyeing process possesses less BOD,

that‘s why sludge retuning is essential. But bacterial treatment can not degrade dyes

totally.

Aeration tank:

In aeration tank basically aeration is occurred by means atmospheric air. Air

from atmosphere is firstly filtered then blower sucks them and flows air to the

aeration tank through 860 diffusers. There are three blowers are used to perform their

function. Every blower is running for 16 hours in the set of two. And every blower

pauses blowing for 8 hours every day. Usually two blowers are running all the time to

blow 1500 cubic meter of fresh air per hour. 860 diffusers are uniformly distributed

around the 470 sq meter area.

229

air filter

blower

Picture: blowers for aeration. Picture: aeration system to tank

Picture: Cross sectional view of aeration tank.

Diffusers are kept at bottom of the tank floor. Blower takes air from

atmosphere and then it passes though pipe to the diffusers. Then diffusers supply air

as well as oxygen to the effluent. These blowers possesses the 25% cost of the plan.

Blowers are highly stronger than the normal. These blowers are micro chipped

program with the reader JUMO GMBH (it is a dissolve oxygen reader). When the

dissolved oxygen comes up to 7.6 mg/L then the inverter of blowers‘ motor worked to

reduce rpm of blower.

These are the description of plan for aeration tank. Now the question how does the

function of air? This aeration does nothing but increase the quantity of dissolve

oxygen. 4700cubic meter effluent is treated here for 47 hours, it‘s a huge time. During

this time oxidative chemicals are liked to fill up their oxygen demand from the water.

230

That‘s why increasing amount of dissolved oxygen is required to meet the demand.

Without this the aquatic life in this tank ie, bacteria demands oxygen which is also

filled up by this dissolved oxygen.

These are all about air, at aeration tank. During aeration bacteria is also

involved to degrade effluents. Next chemical reactions will describe better.

The bacterial action:

COHNS + O2 + Bacteria + TSP & UREA CO2 + NH3 +

Energy

+ Other end

Products

TSP and Urea is used as food for the microorganism

COHNS + O2 + Bacteria C5H7NO2 (new bacteria)

C5H7NO2 + 5O2 CO2 + NH3 + 2H2O

Apart from the above basics reaction there are some other reactions that take place in

the aeration tanks. During aeration the oxygen reacts with C, S and N which is shown

below.

C + O2 CO2

S + O2 SO2

N + O2 NO2

231

Picture: the aeration tank

Picture: the delivery from aeration tank

Oil separation is an important part of an effluent treatment plan. Every where

this kind of simple technique is used. In picture the oil separation technique is

described. We know that the oil is lighter than water due to density. Here effluent

passes through these two pipes. These are pipes having too many holes. Holes are

started from the bottom to 8 meter of this tanks‘ height. But the height is 10 meter.

This results the effluent to pass just below from the liquid surface. So lighter oil cant

passes but the liquid water with sludge can pass through the holes. As a result oil is

floating at the surface. When a significant amount of oils are layered then manually

these are removed from the tank to the sludge tank.

Aeration tank of this plan play the chief role for treating effluent. Here

polymers are degraded, but only biodegradable polymeric chemical compounds can

be degraded. Manufacturer of this plan may appreciate for this simple technique but

232

for environment dyers must need to use selective chemicals. But it is appreciated for

knit dyeing industries as the knit dyeing process possesses almost eco friendly

chemicals. But for printing like industries, effluent characters can not support this

type of effluent treatment plan.

Lamella clarifier:

out let of treated effluent Picture: Lamella clarification inlet of

effluent

(Red line shows the effluent entrance direction & the green shows the treated

effluents‘ exit direction)

This is a special kind of clarification system of sludge from treated effluent.

Mainly sludge is denser than the water, which results its sedimentation at the bottom

of the chamber. There are eight units for clarification they are separated from each

other by thin tin sheets. It has eight clarification chambers. Treated effluent comes out

through over flow and the sludge sediment at the bottom of lamella clarification

system. From aeration tank effluent with sludge comes through pipe which is joined

with the lamella clarification chambers.

Cross sectional view of Lamella clarification system

Effluent with sludge

Effluent without sludge

Sludge

233

Wiper Outlet of sludge Outlet

Drain

Sludge

Wiping ground Lamella Tin walls

Filtration tank‘s ground

Shaft and motor arrangement for wiping

The cross sectional view of the lamella clarification system is representing two

chambers only and the rest follows the same principle. Here the figure shows that

after the input of effluent from the aeration tank it passed to the chambers through

inlet pipes due to gravity. The ground of the chambers is sloped down to ease the

sludge through the sludge holes. The flow rate through the sludge hole is much lesser

than the inlet flow due to the followings.

The hole is much narrow than the width of filtration tank.

The layers of deposited sludge at the hole.

Very short area between the sludge outlet and the wiping ground.

Wiper is rotating at very low rpm (1 revolution/12 minute).

Sludge return time from the Lamella sheets is very short.

These reasons cause an effective upward flow of the effluent. The lamella sheets

are parallel to each other and inclined with the wall at an angle of 45 degree. This

arrangement of lamella clarification provides sludge down ward action to the ground

of tank which results passing of effluent without sludge. Thus sludge sedimentation is

occurred by the lamella clarification system.

Effluent without sludge is over flowed above the tank due to the hydraulic

pressure involving in the tank. According to Department of environment Bangladesh

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this effluent without sludge is dischargeable to environment. But internationally some

standard demands colorless effluent. For this manner manufacturer of this plant

suggest an ozonization treatment for discoloration. So we may not mention this

effluent as treated effluent. Over flowed effluent without sludge is then passed to

ozonization chamber.

Sludge wiping technology is very simple here. Wiper is rotating at .0833 rpm that

is 1 revolution per 12 minute. Sludge deposited on eight different place on the wiping

ground. In the circular wiping ground there is a blank space for to fall down sludge

which are wiped up. And from there marshy sludge is pumped in to the temporary

sludge tank. The following picture will describe better

Sludge tank:

Treated effluent directly goes to the ozonization chamber and the sludge goes

to sludge return tank through pump and pipe arrangement. Here sludge is recycled. If

the sludge concentration rises at 70% then the sludge is deposited at sludge tank. The

concentration of sludge is measured regularly from the liquid of aeration tank

delivery. The flow of sludge is marked at next picture

235

sludge

deposite Sludge tank

here before

returning

Lamella chambers

Picture: Marooned line shows the path of sludge returning to a temporary sludge

tank from where sludge is delivering to sludge returning tank or to sludge tank.

The passage for sludge is under grounded. Magenta arrow shows the pipe to

sludge retuning tank. Green arrow shows the under grounded drain to the

ozonization chamber.

Sludge concentration measurement is too simple. In sludge measuring cone

effluent from the aeration tank delivery is taken and then it is kept on a table for 15

min. if the sludge sedimentations rises up to 70 then its concentration is 70%. The

sludge concentration of this plant is recorded 45% as its highest concentration. When

the concentration of sludge rises to 70% then sludge is allowed to sediment at sludge

tank. In sludge tank there is a sand filtration system in which 2 feet of sand layer is

kept and above that sand sludge is deposited. At the ground of tank there is a pipe

arrangement with filtration which allows effluent without sludge passing to the

ozonization tank. This is all about sludge tank.

236

Ozonization:

It is a new technique for discoloration. Ozone gas is prepared at first then it is

passes through the effluent without sludge. Due to business secrecy manufacturers are

not like to describe its machine principle. Here we can learn one thing that is ozone is

used to discolor effluent.

The chemistry of this principle is very simple. We know that pie bond is responsible

for hue in dyes. By means of ozone gas this pie bond is broken down.

O

R-C=C-R + O3 R- C C

O O

Picture: the ozone chamber and the discharged effluent

After ozonization the effluent is totally color less which is mentioned as treated

effluent. After this treated effluent is directly discharged to the river Hatu bhanga

through a cannel.

Results of Effluent Treatment (biological)

237

SL

NO.

Effluent Quality

parameters

Concentration

present in raw

effluent

mg/L

Concentration

present in

treated

effluent

mg/L

Bangladesh Quality Standard at

Discharge

Inland

surface

water

mg/L

Public

Swear at

secondary

treatment

plant

(WASA)

mg/L

Irrigated

land

mg/L

1

pH

8.2

6.5

6-9

6-9

N/A

2

Biological

Oxygen Demand

(BOD)

180

16

50

250

100

3

Chemical Oxygen

Demand (COD)

417

42

200

400

400

4 Time 67 hours 12 min

Costing:

Chemical cost per day = 6650 tk

Power cost per day= 78 tk

Man power cost per day= 1000 tk.

Total = 7728 tk per day.

They processed 1800 cubic meter per day so cost per cubic meter= 3.22 tk

238

Advantages of biological method:

1. It possesses a low maintenance cost.

2. It can process colorless water.

3. It is highly modernized with the latest technology.

4. Its mechanism is simple enough.

5. Theoretically it is simple as well as practically.

6. It is best for the effluent treatment plan for any kinds of textile industries.

Disadvantages of biological method:

1. It has a very high fixed cost around 50000000 tk rather than the physico

chemical method

2. Treatment through this method possesses a huge area around 30 kathas.

3. Non-biodegradable chemicals can not treat here.

4. Its maintenance needs skilled professionals.

5. Dyer needs to select chemicals with respect to its effluent treatment.

6. It possesses relatively high treatment duration around 67 hours 12 mins.

Remark : Well.

239

240

Maintenance:

The act which is done to Keep the factory plan equipments machine

tools etc. in an optimum working condition, minimize the break down of m/c's to

improve Productivity of existing m/c tools and avoid sinking of additional capacity

and to Prolong the useful life of the factory plant & machinery is called Maintenance.

Objectives of Maintenance:

To Keep the factory Plants, equipments, Machine tools in an optimum

working condition.

To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to

customer.

To keep the downtime of Machines to the minimum thus to have control over

the production Program.

To Keep the Production cycle within the stipulated range.

Preventive Maintenance:

In Montex Fabrics Ltd the Preventive Maintenance is a predetermined routine

activity to ensure on tome inspection or checking of facilities to uncover conditions

that may lead to Production break downs or harmful depreciation.

Break down Maintenance:

In this case, repairs made after the equipment is out of order and it can not

perform its normal functions.

Montex Fabrics Ltd. follow the above two types Maintenance.

Manpower set up for Maintenance:

Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance

Mechanical

Maintenance

Electrical

Maintenance

Break down

Maintenance

Electrical

Maintenance

Mechanical

Maintenance

241

For electrical Maintenance:

Per shift:

♦ B Sc. Engineer - 3

♦ Diploma Engineer – 4

♦ Senior Technician – 5

♦ Junior Technician – 6

For mechanical Maintenance:

Per Shift:

♦ B Sc. Engineering - 2

♦ Diploma Engineering - 3

♦ Senior Technician – 2

♦ Junior Technician – 4

Maintenance Tools & Equipments and their functions:

Pliers

Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts & bolts

Pipe threat Cutting Tools

Function: To Cut the threat in Pipe.

Girding M/C

Function: For grinding & Cutting of mild steel.

Welding M/C

Function: For welding & Cutting.

File

Function: For Smoothing the Surface.

Pipe Cutting Tools

Function: For Pipe Cutting.

Hole Punch

Function: Punching the hole.

Grease Gum.

Function: For greasing of moving Parts of M/C

Hammer

Function: For Scaling & right angling

Divider

Function: For circle marking on metal & wood

Easy Opener

242

Function: To open the broken head bolt

Heavy Scissor

Function: Cutting of gasket & steel sheet

Bearing Puller

Function: To assist the Opening of bearing from shaft.

Pipe Range

Function: Tightening & Loosening of Pipe Joint

Oil Can

Function: Oiling of moving Parts.

Drill M/C and Drill bit.

Function: For Drilling.

Hacksaw blade.

Function: For metal Cutting.

Handsaw (wood)

Function: For wood Cutting

. Combination tools (Spanner)

Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts & bolts.

Socket Ratchet set

Function: Tightening of Nuts & bolts.

Slide Range

Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts & bolts

Grinding Stone.

Function: For smooth finishing

Grinding Paste

.Function: For easy Cutting of metal

243

Maintenance Procedure:

Normally Preventive Maintenance is done here. During Maintenance Procedure

following Point should be checked:

Maintenance: Mechanical

Machine: Dyeing M/C

Serial Item need to be checked & Serviced

1 Creasing the winch bearing

2 Complete cleaning of Machine

3 Cleaning of drain Valves, replace scales if required

4 Check air supply filters, regulators and auto drain seals

5 Clean filters element and blow out

6 Greasing of unloading roller bearings

7 Checking of oil level and bolts of unloading roller gearbox

8 Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing

9 Checking and cleaning of main vessel level indicator

10 Check the oil level of Pump bearing and refill if required

11 Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves

12 Check all belts and belt tension

Maintenance: Electrical

Machine : Dyeing

Serial Item needed to be checked and serviced

1 Check & Clean fluff and dirt at all motor fan covers

2 Check all motors

3 Check Main Panels boards

4 Check Panels Cooling fan & clean it filter

5 Check all circuit breaker , magnetic contractors and relays

6 Check Main Pump inverter and its Cooling fan

7 Check Current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over Loads

8 Visual Checking of all Power & Control & Cables

9 Check all Pressure switches

10 Check Calibration of Main vessel

11 Check DC drive of kneel motors

12 Check Calibration of all additional tank

13 Check all Pneumatic solenoids

14 Check Calibration of Heating / Cooling

15 Check setting & operation of lid safety switches

16 Check all emergency switches

16 Check all indicating Lamps

17 Check all On / Off switches

18 Check all Signal isolators

19 Check Key Pad & display of Controller

20 Check Proximity Switches

Remarks:

When I was trainee of Montex Fabrics Ltd. then I saw that the Maintenance

staffs and overhead of Maintenance department were skilled enough and efficient.

244

245

Inventory

Inventory is stock or store of good. Inventory management is a vital part for

any factory because smooth production as well as cost of storage depends on it.

Function of Inventory:

To smooth production requirement

To meet anticipate demand

To protect against stock outs

To take advantages of order cycles

To take advantages of quality discounts

The type of inventory carried in this factory as follows-

o Gray fabric : Own knitted or imported

o Dyes and chemicals : Local or Imported

o Spare parts : Local or Imported

o Packing materials : Local or Imported

o Finished fabrics : Good or Rejected

Procurement System:

`

Dyes (mostly used like Sunfix, Sunzol, Dianix Remazol, Megaperse dyes) and

chemicals (regular items like Sequestering agent, Anti creasing agent, Caustic,

Stabilizer etc.) are imported from CHINA, GERMANY & INDIA ,KOREA6.

Crystal salt and Soda ash is purchase from local distributor.

Scope of Inventory Control:

Raw materials inventories

In process inventories

Finished goods inventories

Maintenance, repair and operational inventories

Miscellaneous inventories

246

Type of inventory Department primarily responsible:

Import Gray Fabric

Marketing

Gray Fabric Local

Production

Dyes & Chemicals- Imported

Marketing

Dyes & Chemicals- Local

Production

Spare parts & Consumables

Maintenance

Finished Goods

Marketing

Inventory System for Raw material:

In Montex Fabrics Ltd. there are different inventory systems for

different raw materials.

Grey Fabric Store:

All the grey fabrics are stored in the fabric store near the batch section. Different

types of fabric are listed in the sheet according to fabric types, quantity and

consumer‘s requirement.

Dyes and Chemicals store:

There is a different store for dyes and chemicals. Varies types of dyes and

chemicals are stored here according to dyes and chemicals companies. Different types

of dyes and chemicals are listed in a sheet. In the sheet the stored quantity of dyes and

chemicals are also included. Every day the sheet is updated and a copy of this sheet is

supplied to the dyeing manager, dye house and lab section.

Finished goods store:

In Montex Fabrics Ltd. supplies its finished dyed fabrics to its garments

section. So, dyed finished fabrics are stored for short time in the finishing section. All

the delivered fabrics are noted on the tally khata according to the lot no, quantity,

fabrics diameter, buyer's name, color & considering other technical parameters.

247

Spares part store:

In Montex Fabrics Ltd. required amount of spares of different machines are

stored in the mechanical store room. All the spares are listed in a sheet which is

controlled by the mechanical & maintenance personnel. Spares are arranged in the

store room according to their size, quantity & requirements. There are shelves in the

store room to keep the small spare parts.

Frequency of Inventory Control:

- Daily inventory control

- Weekly inventory control

- Monthly inventory control

- Yearly inventory control

Re –order Point:

The re-order point is stated in terms of level of inventory at which an order

should be placed for replenishing the current stock of inventory. Re order quantity

depends on the lead time of the product with some additional safety period. It also

depends on the store capacity of factory. For example if the lead time of a product is

two month then normally re ordering quantity may be for two and half months.

Basic Procedure of Production Planning and Control: A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is complete within

the required time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable. Planning

gives a scheduled task and control completes it successfully. But production planning

and control is not an easy task. Its basic working procedure is as follows-

Taking order from marketing division.

Analyzing the orders.

Planning for knitting the fabric.

Planning for dyeing the fabric.

Planning for finishing the fabric.

It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order. Sometimes

the order is placed only for finishing the materials or only for dyeing the goods. Then

some steps are minimizing for planning.

Taking order from marketing division:

Marketing division supplied fabric orders to the planning and control division

by a specific format.

Analyzing the orders:

After getting the fabric order, this section analyzes the orders according to

buyers order quantity, type of orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.),

delivery date etc. This section plans for required quantity of fabric to be knitted (order

248

quantity + 10% of the order quantity), knitting balance, fabric to be dyed, dyeing

balance, RFD (ready for delivery), RFD balance, delivery fabric & delivery balance

etc.

Planning for knitting:

This section plans for knitting production. It selects m/c for knitting the fabric,

no of m/c to be used, type of yarn used, from which source yarn will be collected,

required GSM, width etc. It also gives delivery date of knitted fabric.

Planning for dyeing the fabric:

Production planning for dyeing is called ―Batch plan‖. Batch plan is prepared

according to the batch no, fabric construction, color, width, GSM and priority of

delivery etc and written in a batch card.

Planning for finishing the fabric:

Finishing schedule are same as the dyeing. After dyeing, materials go to the

finishing section with the batch plan. Finishing data is written to the batch card and is

informed to the planning section. However, this section always forces to all the

departments to finish all the work within the delivery time given by the buyers. Thus,

it plays a very important role in the success of the company.

Reactive Dye:

BRAND

NAME

COUNTRY

NAME NAME OF DYE STUFF

DY-STAR. GERMANY

Remazol Blue RR

Remazol Yellow RR

Remazol Deep Black GWF

Remazol Red RR

Remazol Turquoise Blue G

Remazol B/Yellow3GL

Remazol Blue BB new

Remazol Orange RR

Remazol Blue RSPL

Levafix Rubine CA Gran

Levafix Red CA Gran

Levafix Olive CA Gran

Levafix Fast Red CA Gran

Levafix Brillant Red E-4BA Gran

Dianix Navy CC

Dianix Turquoise S-BG

IMPOCOLOR GERMANY

Imcozin Blue E-NR

Imcozin Blue V-CR 150%

Imcozin Brilliant Red V-F3B

Imcozin Brilliant Yellow V-4GL

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Imcozin Yellow E-3R 150%

BENZEMA SWITZER LAND

Bezaktive Blue S-GLD 150

Bezaktive Yellow S-3R 150

Bezaktive Red S-3B 150

CLARIANT SWITZER LAND Drimarine Yellow K-4G Cdg

HUNTSMAN SWITZER LAND

Terasil Red W-4BS

Terasil Navy W-RS

Novacron Red FN-R-01

Novacron Yellow F-4G

JIHUA CHINA Starfix Black B 150%

Starfix Red EP 150%

SUMIFIX JAPAN Sumifix Supra Blue E-XF

Sumifix Supra Yellow E-XF

SUN COLOR KOREA Sunfix Navy Blue MF-D

Different Types of Chemicals Used In Mondol Textile Ltd. With Their Brand

Name:

CHEMICAL NAME BRAND NAME COUNTRY NAME

Wetting agent FELSON NOF Germany

Levelling agent AD,DPE,TUBIFIX China

Anti-creasing agent MFL Germany

Per Oxide Stabilizer

Kapazon H-53

Germany CBB

Rucorit Wez

Caustic Caustic China

Soda Ash Soda Ash Chaina

H2O2 H2O2 Chaina+Korea

Optical Brightening

Agent

Uvitex-BMA

Switzerland Uvitex-BHV

Uvitex-BBT

Syno White 4Bk Korea

H2O2 Killer OEM Germany

Acetic Acid Acetic Acid India

Sequestering Agent

MS China

SIRIX 2UD

ANTOX(Y.D) India

Enzyme BIOPOLISH,AVOCEF China

250

BIOPOLISH -B41 Srilanka

Electrolyte / Salt

Sodium Sulphate

Anhydrose India

Glubar Salt

Detergent PCLF,RGO,RGN Germany

SCF India

Soaping Agent

Rukozen-NZA Germany

Dekol ISN China

Cyclonon XEW

Softener

Nerosoft-JS(an-ionic) China

Nerosoft-NI(non-ionic)

Purrustol-IMA Germany

Fixing Agent Sandofix-EC

Germany Protan FCE-375

Remarks:

Montex Fabric Ltd. has individual stores for raw materials, finished goods, etc.

There is not enough space to store the finished goods. It requires increasing the store

area. In Montex Fabric Ltd. the store for inventory control is satisfactory. Sometimes,

they fluctuate from ideal process otherwise they are okay.

Disperse Dye

Black EX SF

Yellow K 4GB

Blue KFBL

Crimson-XFT

D-Red-XFT

Orange-HWT

Blue BBL

Orange F-3R

Red KRB

Yellow GG

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Costing of the Product:

The following points are considered for costing the product in Montex Fabric Ltd.

1. Cost of fabric or garments or cost of yarn per dozen garments

2. Cost of accessories pre dozen garment

3. Cost of transfer from factory to sea port/ air port

4. Clearing and forwarding cost

5. Total utility cost

6. Commission or profit

The above process are applicable incase of sending goods to abroad

Knitting charge for different types of fabrics

Fabric type Rate (taka) per kg

Single jersey 13

Rib 20-22

Interlock 25-28

Auto stripe 110

Lacry s/j 32-38

Pointal rib 55-65

Fleece 32

Lacry rib 32-38

French terry 27

Dyeing cost:

Shade Rate (taka) per kg

White 35

Black 105

Light shade 35

Medium 35-40

Dark 50-60

Turquish color 80

Finishing cost:

Slitting 8

Stenter 18

Compactor 12

Remarks:

The cost of raw material of product and the cost of m/c charge is not much but the

other fixed and variable cost increased the total cost of the product.

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254

Utility Services

Utility Facilities Available: in Montex Fabrics Ltd

Utility Source

Electricity

RDB & Generator

Gas

TITAS

Compressed air

Air Compressor

Steam

Boiler

Water

Pump

Temperature Control

A/C Chiller

Electricity or Power

Source:

1. Generator

2. RDB (Rural Development Board)

No of generator: 04

Equipment used:

1. Gas generator

2. Diesel generator

Gas

Gas is mainly used for steam production

Gas is bought from TITAS

Generally 36cubic meter gas is required to produce one ton steam.

Steam

No of boiler: 03

Type of boiler: Fire tube boiler

Water

Source: ground water

Hot water: 430 cubic meters come from pump per hour and central fot water reservoir

which contains hot water of 800c.

Cold water: 300 cubic meters come from pump per hour and underground reservoir

tank to store cold water.

A/C chiller

255

Gas generator

The machine by which water is cooled down below its normal temperature is called

chiller. It is used to control the temperature and humidity. Medium used here water.

Others

Electrical wirings: here the electrical wiring system is bus bar tanking system where

copper plate is used for electricity transmission instead of copper wire.

Pipeline: here there are different pipeline in the floor.

1. For high pressure steam

2. For return steam

3. For pressure balance

4. For hot water and cold water

5. For compressed air

Equipment Name : Gas

generator

Nos. : 02

Manufacturer : Waukesha

Power Systems

Model : UHP

7100GSID

Volts : 415/24 hr

RPM : 1000

Generator : 02

Type :Diesel

Generator

Brand Name : Perkins

Origin : India

Model No : 350 – E

Rated Power : 350 KV

Maximum Current : 274 KV

Engine R P M : 1500

Volt : 400

Diesel Generator

256

Boiler: Steam generator or boiler is usually a closed vessel made of steel. There is

three boilers in Montex Fabrics Ltd.

Function: Boiler function is to the heat produced by the combustion of fuel (Gas) to

water and ultimately to generator steam. The steam produced may be supplied in wet

processing department for –

Heating cylinder dryer

Steaming during dyeing

Objects: For supplying steam.

Types of steam:

Wet steam

Dry saturated steam, and

Superheated steam.

In wet steam is used for the relevant processes.

Boiler No : 01

Brand Name : COCHRAN

Origin : Scotland

Type : Fire tube boiler

Capacity : 8 ton per hour

Pressure : 5 bar

Temperature : 188º C

Fuel : Natural Gas

Boiler No : 02


Origin : Scotland



Pressure : 5 bar


Fuel : Natural Gas

Boiler No : 03


Origin : Scotland



Pressure : 5 bar


Fuel : Natural Gas

257

Compressed Air The compressed air is supplied from air condition from air compressor. There

are two air compressors in Montex Fabrics Ltd.

Compressor No: 01


Origin : Scotland

Model No : GA 34 FF

Serial No : TT 254070

Maximum working pressure : 10 bar

Average working pressure : 6-7.5 bar

Free air delivery : 54 liter / second

Normal shaft power : 34 Kw

Rotational Shaft speed : 3000 r pm

Gross weight : 480 kg

Year of Construction : 2000

Compressor No: 02


Origin : Scotland

Model No : S361694

Serial No : 546206

Maximum working pressure : 10 bar

Average working pressure : 6-7.5 bar

Year of Construction : 2000

Volt : 400

Frequency : 50 Hz

Cost of different Utilities:

Electricity Cost:

Gas generator = 2.70 TK/KW- HR

Diesel generator = 6.50 TK/ KW-HR

Gas Cost: 4.94 TK/m3 for boiler

3.66 TK/m3 for generator

4.6 TK/m3 for domestic Purpose

Steam Cost:

4.20 TK/ m3 Kg fabric

Remarks: For smooth running of factory main utilities like gas, electricity or steam is

very essential. Sometimes gas pressure is low than required pressure. When the gas

pressure is low, then diesel generators run. Government should have to ensure proper

gas supply for Industry.

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Conclusion

Montex Fabrics ltd. Is a well planned versatile project. The administrations

management chain of command all are well organized. They are devoted to satisfy the

customer with their activities.

Montex Fabrics ltd has following excellent features, which are worth

mentioning in this conclusion. These are

The dyeing process of Montex Fabrics Ltd is very quick & accurate. It

is amazing that with only 16 ton m/c capacity montex fabrics ltd. is

capable of 18 ton production daily. Furthermore very limited amount

of re- dyeing is carried out in montex fabrics ltd, which proves the

excellence of the dye – house.

Montex Fabrics ltd. has a very good labor management policy which

enables the smooth running of the production line.

The dye- house is very clean with excellent working atmosphere due to

plenty of air circulation and planned layout.

Montex Fabrics ltd. has following drawing backs,

Due to shortage of textile engineers, night shifts some time continue

production without ant production officer. As a result in some case

quality level drops.

University has given me the chance to perform the industrial attachment in

montex fabrics ltd. This attachment acts as a bridge to minimize the gap between

theoretical and practical knowledge. Undoubtedly this attachment taught me more

about textile technology, industrial management and production process. Besides it

gave us the first opportunity to work in an industry. I believe that, the experience of

this industrial will help me in my future career as a textile engineer

Education

Wet Processing Technology