Training course in skincare

Training CoursePUM

Rob Klerkx

Instruction plan

1. Introduction and goal setting2. Definitions3. Elementary chemistry4. Hygiene and Safety5. Anatomy of the skin6. Quality issues7. Ingredients and formulas ( theory)

How do we proceed?

• Everyday we take a few sheets• Who is your trainer? And who are you?

• Goal of our training is: • to develop some knowledge of the skin and the mechanics of cosmetic

products• To develop knowledge about safety in handling chemicals• To understand theoretically the production processes

Who is Rob Klerkx?

• Engineer in Chemical Technology • MsC. in Biochemistry• MsC in Strategic Marketing• Dutch , 64 years • > 30 years of experience in pharmaceutical/ cosmetical and food-beverage

industry• Ca 15 project for PUM in Africa, Europe and Asia

• Product Development• Marketing• Quality Control and Assurance • Supply Chain Management

2. Definitions

• Etymology• Classifications• Nomenclature

2.1 Etymology

• The word cosmetic arrives from the Greek word

• κοσμητικός (kosmêtikos)

• The kosmos which designs the beauty, the beautiful appearance.• In the Greek history to define the beauty of an army, which is ready

for the battle, to impress the enemy.

2.2 Legal Definition(I)

• We understand the cosmetically product as:• A "cosmetic product" shall mean any substance or mixture intended to

be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition. All substances or mixtures which are meant to bring into contact with the superficial parts of the human body ( skin, hair, nails, lips, genital parts and teeth)

• According CE no 1223/2009 of the EU

Not under this definition are:

• Liquids for the eye and nose with a pharmaceutical goal• Creams with a pharmaceutical purpose• All products which are ingested with a cosmetical purpose, these are

defined as food• Products like tattoos

Definitions (II)

• A product is called:• Environmental:

• When it respects the environment

• Natural• When is produced with purely natural components

• Biological• When the ingredients are not in any way treated by chemistry and do not

contain pesticides

• Vegetal• When the product is purely and uniquely is made of plants or extracts of plants

2.3 Nomenclature INCIINCI: International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients

Type of raw material INCI Europe INCI USA

ChemistrySodium dodecyl sulphate SDS

Simplified chemical name:Sodium lauryl sulphate SLS

Simplified chemical name:Sodium Lauryl Sulphate

VegetalArgan oilShea butter

Botanical name:Agania spinosaButyrospermum parkii butter

Common name:Argan oilShea butter

Colour:Indigo

CL xxxxxCL= color indexXxxxx= number of 5 numbersCL 73000

Name defined by FDAD&C Blue no. 6

3. Elementary Chemistry

• What is chemistry?• Molecular structures• pH• Lipids• Surfactants• Colloid chemistry• Emulsions• Other ingredients

3.1 General Chemistry

• Chemistry• Study of atoms, ions and molecules and their chemical reactions

• Organic Chemistry• Study of the chemistry focussed on carbon related organic chemistry

• Inorganic Chemistry• Study of all other chemical reactions based on elements with the exclusion of

carbon

3.2 Molecular structure

3.2 Molecular structure of butane

General formula C4H10

Semi-developed CH3(CH2)2CH3

Developed CH3-Ch2-Ch2-CH3

Topological formula

Molecular mass 58,12

3.3 Acids and bases

Acid• Substance which liberates

a proton: H+ in water• E.g. HCl

Base• Substance which liberates OH-

ions in water• E.g. NaOH

• pH= -log[H+]

Ordinary pH scale

3.4 Lipids

Oils, Tri-Glycerides, Fatty Acids

• Vegetal oils en animal fats constitute principally (98%) of tri-glycerides• Tri-Glycerides are build on glycerol with three fatty acids:

Satured and non-satured fatty acids

Formula Description

Palmetic acid has 16 carbon atoms. Therefore it is named C16Most of the fatty acids have between 12 and 20 Carbon atomsSome fatty acids have one or more unsatured bondse.g. Linoleic acid (C18:2)

Some well known fatty acids

Oxidation of oils

• Hydrolytic rancidity occurs when water splits fatty acid chains away from the glycerol backbone in triglycerides (ester hydrolysis).

• Usually unnoticed since most fatty acids are odourless and tasteless. • A particular problem arises with butter, which contains triglycerides with a high content of butyric

acid derivatives and acetic acids. • Oxidative rancidity is associated with the degradation by oxygen in the air. Via a free radical

process, the double bonds of an unsaturated fatty acid can undergo cleavage, releasing volatile aldehydes and ketones.

• This process can be suppressed by the exclusion of oxygen or by the addition of antioxidants. • (Auto)oxidation primarily occurs with unsaturated fats. • Microbial rancidity refers to a process in which microorganisms, such as bacteria, use their enzymes

such as lipases to break down fat. • This pathway can be prevented by sterilization.

Cosmetic utilization of vegetal oils

3.5 SurfactantsTensio actives

Function tensides

• Tenside has a water soluble and a fat soluble part, which gives the following properties

• Reduction of surface tension• Cleansing of the skin• Emulsion of dirt• Easy removal of dirt• Promotion of foam

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• Water cannot remove all dirt

• Soap does the job:• HOW?

May 2014

Active ingredients

Tensio active: Surfactants

• A surfactant works on the surface tension of two phases• The reduction of surface tension between two immiscible liquids

favours the dispersion of one into the other• Surfactants have:

• One part lipophilic and a-polar (miscible in fats and oils)• One part hydrophilic and polar ( miscible in water)

• Example: Sodium lauryl Sulphate

Formation of micelles

Tensio active agents

• Detergents: to solubilize dirt into the water• Dispersants: to stabilize a suspension• Emulsifiers: to form and stabilize an emulsion• Hydrating agents: to increase the penetration speed into the porous

skin• Foams: to form bubbles in a liquid

Chemistry of Soap

Soap

Hydration

Detergent Breaks away the dirt from the surface

Emulsifier Formation of micelles

3.6 Colloid Chemistry

3.7 Emulsions


• Emulsions contain water- and oil based ingredients• Water and oil do not mix • Result:

• O/W emulsions: oil droplets in water• W/O emulsions: water droplets in oil

• Emulgators are needed to stabilize these emulsions• Examples of emulgators

• O/W: soaps, fatty alcohols, PEG-esters of fatty acids• W/O: fatty esters of polyglycerine, cholesterol

May 2014

Emulsions and emulgators

Robert Klerkx for PUM 37May 2014

Commercially, large-scale emulsions are prepared in large volume mixing tanks and refined and stabilized by passage through advanced colloid mills or homogenizers. •Pharmacists use different small-scale methods that each require that energy is put into the system in some form: –tritration , –homogenization, –agitation,–heat •Methods –Continental (Dry Gum, or 4:2:1) –English (Wet Gum) –Bottle (Forbes) –Beaker Method (see further) –Auxiliary

Pharmacist’s methods of emulsion preparation

Beaker method (1)

The most appropriate method for preparing emulsions from surfactants or other non-gum emulsifiers is to begin by dividing components into water soluble and oil soluble components. •All oil soluble components are dissolved in the oily phase in one beaker and all water soluble components are dissolved in the water in a separate beaker. •Oleaginous components are melted and both phases are heated to approximately 70°C over a water bath. •The internal phase is then added to the external phase with stirring until the product reaches room temperature. •The mixing of such emulsions can be carried out in a beaker, mortar, or blender; or, in the case of creams and ointments, in the jar in which they will be dispensed.

Beaker method (2)

Oil phase: heated about 5-10 degree above the highest melting point of ingredient (water bath)

•Water phase: heated to the same temperature of oil phase (water bath) •Add: internal phase into external phase, mix, constant agitation being provided throughout the time of addition

•Caution: –not to heat the phase above 85 degree –rate of cooling determining the final texture and consistency

3.8 Other ingredients


• Soap removes not only dirt, but also skin fat ( sebum)• We add hydrating agents and moisturizing agents to the soap for temporarily purpose• Examples moisturizing agents:• Lanoline

• Fatty acids• Fatty alcohols• Lecithine

• Examples of hydrating agents• Glycerine• Glycol• Sorbeth• Polyethylene glycol

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3.8.1 Hydrating agents

3.8.2 Conservation agents

• Goal: to protect a product against micro-biological and mould contamination.

• But: Sterile shit remains always shit. So do clean first!

natural Semi-natural Synthetic

Poumplemousse Cosgard (benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, water)Benzoate, sorbate

ParabenesUreum derivativesIsothiazolonesTriclosanSalicylic acidHeliozimth K


• Cosmetic products may be spoiled by oxidation• Anti-oxidants take away the oxygen radicals • Examples of anti-oxidants:

• Vitamine E (Tocoferol)• Dibutylhydroxytoluene• Ascorbic acid

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8.3 Anti-oxidants


• Fragrances• Colouring agents• Viscosity stabilizers• Foam stabilizers• Chemicals to support

claim

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3.8.4 Other ingredients

Other ingredientsSkin conditioner

• Interact by their structure with the skin and pulls it straight. Smoothing.

• Collagen- or silkhydrolysate and milk proteins. Silicon compounds.

Humidifier

• Every wash removes lipids from the skin. Therefore the skin will dry-out too much.

• Therefore we add humidifiers to reverse partly the removal of lipids.

• Amino acids, glycerine, milk acid and sorbit.

Other ingredientsFragrance

• To stimulate the purchase and psychological well feeling of user. Takes away off flavopunctatus of tensides.

• Mind the possible interaction with colouring agents.

Colour

• European laws restrict the use of colouring agents.

• Mind the pH, basic formulation and stability. concentration 0,0001 - 0,01%

Other ingredientsPearling

• Give tensidproducts a pearl mutter shine.

• E.g. glycoldisearate• With styrol acrylate colymer we

obtain a milky appearance without pearls.

Organic acids

• To adjust to the pH of the skin 5-6.

• Often used are wine acid or citric acid to 0,1-0,5%

• Citric acid helps also as complexer.

Other ingredientsComplexer

• Catch heavy metals which promote oxidation like iron and copper.

• Sodium salt of ethylendiamintetraacetic acid or editronacid.

Thickener• To adjust the viscosity• Fattyalcoholethoxylate,

fattyacidalkylolamide or salt.• Mind too much salt will reverse

the thickening and induce separation.

• To from a gel we use xanthan, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

Chemical operations

• Mixing. Basic operation to blend two or more substances evenly

• Hominization to change the particle size in emulsions and suspensions to prevent separation • Dispersion to mix one or more phases of substances into a dispersion liquid. Could be solid,

liquid or gas • Emulations. To mix two not soluble substances into each other. The outer liquid is called

continuous phase, the other inner phase is called discontinuous phase • Suspension. To mix into very small, but not molecular parts of a solid into liquids.

4. Hygiene and sanitary protection

• Instructions• Disinfection en sterilization• Safety measures• Sanitary Plan

4.1 GMP ( ISO 22716:2007)

Personnel Hygiene 2.15 Detailed hygiene programmes should be established and adapted to the different needs within the factory. They should include procedures relating to the health, hygiene practices and clothing of personnel. These procedures should be understood and followed in a very strict way by every person whose duties take him into the production and control areas. Hygiene programmes should be promoted by management and widely discussed during training sessions.

2.16 All personnel should receive medical examination upon recruitment. It must be the manufacturer’s responsibility that there are instructions ensuring that health conditions that can be of relevance to the quality of products come to the manufacturer’s knowledge. After the first medical examination, examinations should be carried out when necessary for the work and personal health.

4.1 GMP directives

2.18 Every person entering the manufacturing areas should wear protective garments appropriate to the operations to be carried out.

2.19 Eating, drinking, chewing or smoking, or the storage of food, drink, smoking materials or personal medication in the production and storage areas should be prohibited. In general, any unhygienic practice within the manufacturing areas or in any other area where the product might be adversely affected should be forbidden.

2.20 Direct contact should be avoided between the operator’s hands and the exposed product as well as with any part of the equipment that comes into contact with the products.

2.21 Personnel should be instructed to use the hand-washing facilities

4.2 Three elementary points on hygiene:• All aqueous products are very susceptible to bacteria- and mould

growth. It is therefore absolutely required to respect a perfect hygiene:1. Wash your hands well before you start the production. Wear

protective gloves, caps and masks.2. Disinfect carefully all production materials:

1. or with boiling water during ten minutes or 2. by using pharmaceutical alcohol >96%. After production clean the production

means carefully.

3. Keep the preparations cool and use it within the week. Use natural conservatives. And be apprehensive when you smell an off-flavour.

4.3 Safety measures

• The production of creams requires sometimes the heating of certain phases. Be prudent as not to burn yourselves. It is necessary to wear safety googles and gloves.

• Your ingredients should all and always be labelled if necessary with safety instructions.

• In case of the use of alcohol: be careful, it is irritant to the eyes, it is inflammable and it affects your respiratory tract.

• Certain ingredients contain the risk of allergy for certain persons.• Always before you start a production: Read the safety instructions

carefully.

4.3 Symbols

4.4 Sanitary Plan

4.4 GMP plan

• Cleaning plan and disinfection plan• Plan against rodents• Training plan personnel• Documentation

• Maintenance• Hygiene of personnel• Temperature checklists• etc

MicrobiologyHACCP hazard analysis and critical control points

CCP Hazard Measures Control

Formulation Insufficient conservation Improve formulation Validation

Ingredients Cell countToxins

Sterilisation Audit supplier

Micro controlAnalysis

Sterilisation Insufficient Validation Control

Production Insuff conservation Documentation Chemical analysis

Hygiène Contamination Cleaning and CIP hygiene plan training hygiene officer

Installation Insuff cleaning / dead end Improve installation Hygiene validation

Quality control Faulty results Validation of equipment and methods

Periodical checks

Logistics Supply of contaminated products

Tests of system Controlled recall

5. Anatomy and physiology


• Composition of the skin• Protection against drying out• Protection against bacteria• Protection against UV radiation• Temperature regulation• Changes of the skin• Aging• Disorders

The Skin

May 2014


• Adults have about 18000 cm2 of skin which weighs 4,8 kg with men, 3,2 kg with women.

• Two types of skin:• Hairy • Glabrous

• Composition:• Epidermis• Dermis• Nerves & sense organs• Hair follicles• Sebaccous glands• Appocrine glands

May 2014

Composition of the skin



Epidermis

Epidermis Profile• Different layers with kerotine• Pigment cells

• Skin color • by blood • carotine (yellow)• pigment cells (melalin)

• Langerhans cells• Play role in immunity

• Merkel cells:• Affect sensations

Skin renews every two to four weeks

May 2014


Epidermis consists of:_ Keratine: 58%_ Fats, lipids: 20%_ Water-soluble substances: 15%_ Water 7%


The color melanine is produced in the pigment cells in the stratum basale.The melanocytes produce melaline and inject this in the young skincells ( keratocytes)No way that cosmetic products can do the same job!


• Protects the body against mechanical shocks• Feeds the epidermis• Contains

• Blood• Nerves• Hair follicles• Sweat glands

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Dermis


• Contains:• Collagen 75%• Elastin 4%• Ground substance• Fibroblasts

• Secrete collagen and elastin• Mast cells

• Secrete histamine, which causes inflammation pain and itching

May 2014

Dermis


• Sense organs• Touch• Warmth

• Sweat: by evaporation of fluids: chilling• Cold

• Gooseflesh: Hair follicles rise ( air cushion) , skin contracts• Pain

• Sweat glands: • Control body temperature• Excretion of water and salts

• Evaporation: ( 6-7 burst per minute)

• Environmental temperature• UV light• Emotional stress• Rise of body temperature

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Nerves & sense organs


• Hair is produced by keratinization

• 120.000 follicles on the human scalp

• Cycle: 1 to 3 years• We lose 100 hairs from our

scalp each day• Difference between scalp- and

pubic/axillary regions and face of the male hair follicles

• The latter are initiated by androgens ( male hormone)

• These androgens cause at the same time baldness with men.

May 2014

Hair follicles


• Secrete sebum• Lipid that covers skin and

hair• Sebum:

• Tri-Glyceride• Free fatty acids• Wax esters (squalene)

May 2014

Sebaccous glands


• Axillary, genital and nipple regions

• Secrete milky substance

• Supports human communication

• Different bacteria between men and woman produce different odors

May 2014

Apocrine glands


• Protects body against • Noxious substances• Radiation• Physical shocks

• Keeps body fluid inside (de-hydration)• Heath control• Protection against bacteria• Transmits sexual and social signals, by

• Color• Odor• Materials

• Therefore it is important for cosmetic producers to fully understand the mechanics of the skin

May 2014

Function of the skin


• Aging:• Starts at 25-30 yrs of age• Loss of elasticity• Start of wrinkles• Reduction of sebum• Skin becomes dryer• Natural aging cannot be stopped!• Stress, unhealthy food, alcohol, smoking, too much sunlight accelerate the process

• Disturbances:• Washing and bathing remove sebum• Puberty:

• Production of more sebum, which causes a fatty skin• Clogging of exit sebaccous glands could cause bacterial growth

• Cellulitus with women:• There is no remedy• Diet, massage and sport

May 2014

Changes of the skin


• Cosmetic chemist is not concerned with serious disorders• Ephalides (freckles), lentigens and moles

• Freckles: • Harmless, local pigmentation• (western people): fair or red haired• Genetically determined

• Vitilogo:• Patchy depigmentation: often associated with leprosy• Social stigma• Caused by auto-immune disorder• Cannot be treated, but by cosmetic camouflage

May 2014

Disorders of the skin


• Skin consists of three layers• Epidermis• Dermis• Hypodermis

• Outer layer is impermeable: Outside-in, but permeable inside –out

• All our active ingredients have too large molecules to penetrate

• We can keep the epidermis smooth, soft and maintain humidity level

May 2014

Summary

6. Quality Issues

Quality issues

• Quality Assurance• GMP• Traceability• Labelling

6.1 Quality Assurance

6.2 ISO 22716 (GMP)

• Equipment

• Raw materials

• Environment

• Packaging material

• Buildings

• Personnel

• Critical stage procedures

GMP chain

6.3 Traceability

Some of the important points to be considered on traceability according to ISO 22005 are 1.Top management should have a traceability plan and design the traceability process based on the objectives of the organisation.2.The system should be verifiable, applied consistently, results oriented, cost effective, practical to apply, compliant with local regulations and also with defined accuracy requirements.3.The traceability objectives of the organisation may include, quality objectives, customer needs, to identify responsible organisations 4.The organisation should document the flow of all materials and documents should be controlled based on the documentation procedure5.The organisation should have production definition, lot definition and batch identification, data management and recording protocols6.The information should be retrievable whenever required or when a customer complaint received.7. The traceability plan shall be implemented by assigning responsibilities for qualified personnel which is taken care of by top HR management.

Traceability: two ways

Supplier Producer Customers

information

products

6.4 What are the reason to label?

• Supply Chain function• Protection function• Information function• Marketing function

6.4 Labelling of cosmetic products

• The name of the product and the address of the producer• Country of origin• The weight or volume at the moment of labelling• Date of consum• Instruction how to use• Production lot number• Ingredient list

• Instruction acc CE # 1223/2009 for cosmetic products

Practical

Functionality of skincare

• Objective and measurable• Cleaning• Make up• Deodorant• Sweat reducer• UV protection

• Objective but hard to measure• Humidity regulation• Skin swelling• Anti-wrinkle• Skin protection improvement• Flagrancy• Effective against skin dirt

• Subjective and not measurable• Young appearance• Pleasant feeling• Improved handle• Erotic function of fragrance

• Plus the placebo effects of• Colour, packaging, verbal sayings, name of producer, price, shop, publicity.

7. Ingredients and formulas

• Face Care• Hand & Food Care• Sun screen products• Shampoo• Creams & Emulsions


Basic and extended facial care:

Basics of care products Extra ingredients

• Oil• Fat• Wax• Hydrating ingredients

• Liposomes• UV filter• Anti-oxidants• Fruity acids (removal of loose

epidermis)• Allantoine ( smooths dry skin)• Bisabolol ( calms the skin)• Plant extracts ( bleed)• Emulgators• Preservatives• Thickener

May 2014


• Composition• Different kinds of products

Hand & Foot care

May 2014


• Hand care:• With our hands we wash and clean• Products should contain:

• Fatty substances• Preservatives• Fragrances

• Foot care:• Products are meant to clean and refresh the skin• Feet contain many sweat glands• Bacteria transfer sweat into sweaty odors

• Creams and balsa slightly acid • Powders (talcum)• Baths ( sodiumcarbonate, sodium hydrogencarbonate)• Deodorants• Anti-prespiration products ( alumiunsulphate, aluin, salicylic acid)

May 2014

Composition


• Effect of sunlight on the skin• UV radiation• Function of sunscreen products• Different kinds of products

Sunscreen products

May 2014

96

Radiation from the sun

Down-side Up-side

• Affects the epidermis• Destroys the collagen, which renders elasticity to

the skin• Destroyed collagen renders skin leathery, wrinkly• Nicotine has the same effect• As we grow older, we produce less and less

collagen• Cosmetic products can only reduce effects by

keeping skin soft and shiny • Important: Prudent with sun baths!

• Makes us happy• Needed for

production of Vitamin D

May 2014 Robert Klerkx for PUM


• Visible wavelength between 400 and 800 nm• UV-A: 320- 400 nm• UV-B: 280-320 nm• UV-C: 100- 280 nm ( stopped by atmosphere)

• UV-B browns our body, but ‘burns’ as well

• Reaction of body against UV radiation:• Thickening of epidermis ( 10x)• Production of melamine ( in a couple of days)

May 2014

UV radiation


• SPF (Sun protection factor)• SPF 10 means that we may sunbath 10 x longer without sunburns• SPF 2 takes away 50% of radiation• SPF 4 takes away 75% of radiation• SPF 20 takes away 95% of radiation

• Sunscreen contains• Filters ( 4-aminobenzoic acid)• Pigments ( titan oxide and other oxides)• Anti-oxidants

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Function of sunscreen products

Composition of shampoo

Ingredient Function1-4 %

Water Diluent 50-70

Primary surfactant Washing 15-30

Secondary surfactant Foaming agent 1-4

Gum Viscosity 0-5

Humidifier Hydration 1-5

Chelating agent Binding of calcium 0-1

Acid pH 2

Base pH

Parabens e,g Conservation

Dimethicone, silicones Conditioner

Active agents

Additives (oil,)

Fragrance

Preparation of shampoo (example)Phase A Ingredient %

Distilled water water 66

Primary surfactant SLES 20

Gum NaCl 3

Humidifier Glycerine 2

Phase B

Additives Avocado oil 2

Secondary surfactant Cocoamido propyl betain 4

Chelating agent EDTA 1

Acid Citric acid 0.4

Phase C

Base NaOH 18%

Conservation agent Acnibio 0.1

Conditioner Dimethicone 1

Active agents - -

Fragrance Verveine 0.7

Total 100

Composition of emulsions

Ingredient Function %

Water Watery phase 60-85

Oils Oil phase < 30

Emulsifier Stability 5-10

Emollient Keep water on the skin

Humidifier Increase retention of the skin

Conservation Anti bacteria, anti fungicide

Anti oxidant Against rancidity

Fragrance

Colouring

Additives

Preparation of emulsions by HBLHydrophilic-Lipophilic balance

Value HLB Application

Lipophile

1 - 3 Anti- foam

3 - 8 Emulsions Oil/water

7 - 9 Humidant

8 - 18 Emulsion Water/Oil

11 - 15 Detergent

Hydrophile 15 - 18 Solubilizer

Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil [7] Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed Oil [7] Almond Oil NF [6] Hybrid Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius) Oil [9] Anhydrous Lanolin USP [10] Isopropyl Myristate [11.5] Apricot Kernel Oil [7] Isopropyl Palmitate [11.5] Avocado (Persea Gratissima) Oil [7] Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil [6.5] Babassu Oil [8] Lanolin [10] Beeswax [12] Macadamia (Ternifolia) Nut Oil [7] Borage (Borago Officinalis) Seed Oil [7] Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter [8] Brazil Nut Oil [8] Mineral Oil [10.5] C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate [13] Myristyl Myristate [8.5] Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil [7] Olive (Olea Europaea) Oil [7] Canola Oil [7] Oryza Sativa (Rice Bran) Oil [7] Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride [5] Peanut Oil NF [6] Carrot (Daucus Carota Sativa) Seed Oil [6] Petrolatum [7] Castor (Ricinus Communis) Oil [14] PPG-15 Stearyl Ether [7] Ceresin [8] Retinyl Palmitate [6] Cetearyl Alcohol [15.5] Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius) Oil [8] Cetyl Alcohol [15.5] Sesame (Sesamum Indicum) Oil [7] Cetyl Esters [10] Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) [8] Cetyl Palmitate [10] Soybean (Glycine Soja) Oil [7] Coconut Oil [8] Stearic Acid [15] Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract [6] Stearyl Alcohol [15.5] Diisopropyl Adipate [9] Sunflower (Helianthus Annus) Oil [7] Dimethicone [5] Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil [7] Dog Rose (Rosa Canina) Hips Oil [7] Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter [6]

Oils and waxes and their HBL

Calcium Stearoyl Lactylate [HLB = 5.1 ± 1] Oleth-20 [HLB = 15.3 ± 1] Ceteareth-20 [HLB = 15.2 ± 1] PEG-100 Stearate [HLB = 18.8 ± 1] Cetearyl Glucoside [HLB = 11 ± 1] PEG-20 Almond Glycerides [HLB = 10 ± 1] Ceteth-10 [HLB = 12.9 ± 1] PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate [HLB = 15 ± 1] Ceteth-2 [HLB = 5.3 ± 1] PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil [HLB = 10.8 ± 1] Ceteth-20 [HLB = 15.7 ± 1] PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate [HLB = 5.5 ± 1] Cocamide MEA [HLB = 13.5 ± 1] PEG-4 Dilaurate [HLB = 6 ± 1] Glyceryl Laurate [HLB = 5.2 ± 1] PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate [HLB = 9 ± 1] Glyceryl Stearate [HLB = 3.8 ± 1] PEG-60 Almond Glycerides [HLB = 15 ± 1] Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate [HLB = 11 ± 1]

PEG-8 Laurate [HLB = 13 ± 1] Glyceryl Stearate SE [HLB = 5.8 ± 1] PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate [HLB = 19.1 ± 1] Glycol Distearate [HLB = 1 ± 1] Polysorbate 20 [HLB = 16.7 ± 1] Glycol Stearate [HLB = 2.9 ± 1] Polysorbate 60 [HLB = 14.9 ± 1] Isoceteth-20 [HLB = 15.7 ± 1] Polysorbate 80 [HLB = 15 ± 1] Isosteareth-20 [HLB = 15 ± 1] Polysorbate 85 [HLB = 11 ± 1] Lauramide DEA [HLB = 15 ± 1] Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate [HLB = 8.3 ± 1] Laureth-23 [HLB = 16.9 ± 1] Sorbitan Isostearate [HLB = 4.7 ± 1] Laureth-4 [HLB = 9.7 ± 1] Sorbitan Laurate [HLB = 8.6 ± 1] Lecithin [HLB = 4 ± 1] Sorbitan Oleate [HLB = 4.3 ± 1] Lecithin [HLB = 9.7 ± 1] Sorbitan Sesquioleate [HLB = 3.7 ± 1] Linoleamide DEA [HLB = 10 ± 1] Sorbitan Stearate [HLB = 4.7 ± 1] Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate [HLB = 6.6 ± 1] Sorbitan Stearate (and) Sucrose Cocoate [HLB = 6 ± 1] Oleth-10 [HLB = 12.4 ± 1] Sorbitan Trioleate [HLB = 1.8 ± 1] Oleth-10 / Polyoxyl 10 Oleyl Ether NF [HLB = 12.4 ± 1] Stearamide MEA [HLB = 11 ± 1] Oleth-2 [HLB = 4.9 ± 1] Steareth-2 [HLB = 4.9 ± 1] Oleth-20 [HLB = 12.4 ± 1] Steareth-21 [HLB = 15.5 ± 1]

Emulsifiers sorted by INCI names

http://www.soapcalc.net

Use of calculation sheet

Day cream

,,/,,/2014 lot #Composition Function % WeightPhase A (water) gramsWater 59 294 1. Specify total

volumeGlycerine Humectant 3 15Phase B (Oil)Sesame oil Oil 15 75 2. Specify % of

ingredients except for water3. Calculate amount of water

Almond oil Oil 15 75Wax # 3 Emulsifier 7.5 37,5

Phase C ( Additives)

Cosgard Conservation 0.5 2,5 4. Do not forget date and lot#

Vit E Anti oxidant 0.2 1Rose extracts Fragrance 0.1 0Total 100 500Volume Total 500

Different emulsions

Cream Milk LotionDate / lot# Date / lot # Date/ Lot #

Composition

Function % grams % grams % grams

Phase A

water 60 299 83 413 69 346

Glycerine Humectant 2 10,0 3 15,0 5 25,0

Phase B 50,0

Sesame oil Oil 10 50,0 0 0 10 50,0

Avocado oil Oil 10 50,0 5 25,0 5 25,0

Argan oil Oil 10 0 5 25,0 0 0,0

Cactus oil Oil 0 37,5 0 0,0 5 25,0

Wax no 3 Emulsifier 7,5 3,0 15,0 5,0 25,0

Phase C

Cosgard Conservator 0,6 3,0 0,6 3,0 0,6 3,0

Vit E Anti oxidant 0,2 1,0 0,2 1,0 0,2 1,0

Orange fragrance

Fragrance 0,0 0,0 0,6 3,0 0,0 0,0

Total 100 500 100 500 100 500

Volume total

500 500 500

The end

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