Tex,5 fibers

Introduction to Textiles

Rakhi Mital

Part-1-Fibers

Classification of Fibers

Building Blocks of all materials- Smallest being ATOM-

To form Fiber –Carbon, Hydrogen, Nitrogen & Sulphur are Important ATOMS

ATOMS combine to form- MOLECULE- Smallest Unit of a compound

Eg -Water( 2atoms of hydrogen & 1 atom of oxygen)

Formation of chemical compound is SYNTHESIS

Separation of a compound into its constituents is -ANALYSIS

Different Physical forms of compound are called STATES

(Water) ---SOLID----LIQUID-----GASEOUS

Macromolecules- Very Large Molecules.

Long Chains of macromolecules is called –linear-POLYMERS

Fibers made from Fibrillar Bundles.

Individual Fibril made from- Long Chains of macromolecules

Vegetable fiber-chain is of cellulose, animal it is of protien…Synthetic from petroleum

Fiber Bulk is Amorphous and Crystalline.

Amorphous –Water/ dye can penetrate, It allow flexibility.

Crystalline- Water /Dye Cannot penetrate. It Gives strength.

Organization of Macromolecules , Amorphous, Crystalline regions ----Determines-Properties of Fibers

MOECULAR ARRANGEMNET IN FIBER


Sources Of Textile Fibers

Solar energy –basis of life

Cotton Flax Wool Silk Cellulosic- Man made

Synthetic- Man made

Cellulose- formed through photosynthesis

Food taken by animals transformed into Fiber forming Proteins

Petroleum derived from Sea Plankton

Cellulose –extracted from Wood

Plants & Animals Construct- NATURAL POLYMERS –form…Fibers

Cellulose dissolved ---passed through spinning jetsfrom Natural Polymers. Forms..

Cellulosic man-made-Fibers

Petroleum products form Synthetic man-made-Fibers --Artificially formed.

ALL FIBERS

Constructed From-

LARGE POLYMER MOLECULES….

Part-1-Fibers- their ….properties

Fibers---SERVICE ABILITY

AESTHETIC- APPROPRIATE IN APPEARNCE FOR END USE

DURABLE- SHOULD LAST FOR ADEQUATE TIME

COMFORT- COMFORTABLE WHEN WORN/ USE

APPEARANCE- TEXTILE RETAIN APPEARANCE WHEN USE < CARE < STORED


AESTHETIC- APPROPRIATE IN APPEARNCE FOR END USE

Luster- is Light Reflected by the surface – SHINY- BRIGHT reflects fair amount of light than DULL -MATTE surface. Yarn & Finish can change the Luster.

Drape-Way the Fabric Falls over a Body. or a Table… FINE fabrics have better drape than COARSE . Yarn & Fabric structure more Important in determining the Drape...

Texture- is Textiles Surface.. NATURAL Fibers has more texture than MAN-MADE.

Hand- Feels to the skin- Warm/Cool, Bulky/Thin, Slick/Soft.

Luster- Drape-Texture-Hand


DURABLE- SHOULD LAST FOR ADEQUATE TIME

Abrasion Resistance- Abiltiy of the Textile to With-Stand the Rubbing during Use . (Flex-occur moving /bending …… Edge occur -when folded)

Flexibilty- Abiltiy to Bend Repeatedly Without Breaking related to Abrasion.

Tenacity- Ability to Withstand a Pulling Force. Differs when Textile is WET & DRY.

Elongation- Degree to which Fiber may be Stretched without breaking. Related to Elasticity

Abrasion ResistanceFlexibilityTenacityElongation

COMFORT- TEXTILE COMFORTABLE WHEN WORN/ USE

Absorbency- Ability of a fiber to Take up Moisture (increase in MASS) from Body /Environment.Hydrophilic- Absorbs Moisture readilyHydrophobic- Have Little or No AbsorbencyHydroscopic- Absorbs Moisture Without Feeling Wet.

Heat Retention- Ability to Hold HEAT. Low in Summers & High in winters Affected by - Fiber, yarn, Fabric structure, Layering,

Heat sensitive- Reaction to Heat- Soften , Melts, Resistant . (Identify Safe Pressing temperature)

Density- Fiber Weight per Unit Volume Lower density into fabrics, Heavy density into heavy fabrics


Absorbency

Hydrophilic- Hydrophobic- Hydroscopic-Heat RetentionHeat sensitiveDensity


APPEARANCE- TEXTILE RETAIN APPAERANCE WHEN USE< CARE< STORED

Resiliency- Ability of textile to RETURN to its Shape Bending / Twisting/ Crushing

Do Not Wrinkle Are --Resilient.

Shrinkage- Ability to RETAIN its Original Dimensions throughout CARE React to Moisture & Heat----SHRINK-- No longer Attractive

Elasticity- Ability to RETURN to its Original dimensions after ELONGATION. Poor elastic Out of Shape. good elastic maintain shape

Dimensional stability- Ability to RETAIN its Original Size & Shape after USE Depends on – Elasticity & Shrinkage resistance.

Dimensions Measured before and after cleaning.

ResiliencyShrinkageElasticity Dimensional stability

RESISTANCE- Reaction to CHEMICALS & HEAT

Light- Exposure to Light (Natural/ Artificial) Damage Fabric. like- yellowing /slight weakening/ complete disintegration

Chemicals- Resistance to Chemicals (ACIDS & ALKALIS) determines - Care Procedures & End Use



COST- Depends on---------------------------------- •Supply-Demand, •Cost of Raw Material used to Grow them.

ENVIORMENTAL IMPACT- The Way- PRODUCTION < USE < CARE < DISPOSAL of Product--- Affects Environment- •Soil conservation, •Use of agriculture chemicals, •Water demands, •Cleaning requirements, •Processing etc,,,)

CARE PROPERTIES- Any Treatment to Maintain the New Look of textile product during use Cleaning, Storage, is CARE

Part-1- How Fibers- Contribute to Fabric Performance?

Fibers

How. Fibers -Contribute to Fabric performance? Strong Fibers –Make Durable Fabrics Absorbent Fibers- Make Apparels Suitable for Skin + towels + diapers Fire resistant Fibers- Used for Children’s Sleep wear + Fire fighters Clothing

HENCE…Fiber Knowledge & Their Properties will HELP You understand

Fiber Contribution to…………………………….

Performance of a Fabric & Product ………made from It.

Durable Suitable

Sleep wear

Fibers

Fiber Properties are Determined By-

1 PHYSICAL STURCTURE2 CHEMICAL COMPOSITION3 MOLECULAR ARRANGEMENT

PHYSICAL STURCTURE

• Length• Diameter• Cross Sectional shape• Crimp• Surface contour

Fibers PHYSICAL STURCTURE

Length- Fibers are- Staple, Filament/ Filament Tow.

STAPLE - Short Length in inches (3/4th-18” ) or cm (2-46cm) Except silk all Natural fibers are available in Staple form

FILAMENT- Long Continuous, Strands Indefinite Length in ( Miles & kilometers)- Mono or Multi FILAMENT. Smooth or Bulked

FILAMENT Tow- Loose rope of several Fibers- Crimped or textured cut to staple length.

Fibers

Diameter

LARGE FIBER- Crisp Rough stiff… Resist Crushing

FINE FIBERS- Soft, Pliable.. Drape Easily….

PHYSICAL STURCTURE

Fineness or Coarseness of fiberDetermine by – Denier, Tex , Cotton count

Fiber: Fineness or Coarseness of fiber, DENIER- Weight in (gms ) of 9000 meters of fiber /yarn

A single strand of silk is one denier. A 9,000 meter strand of silk weighs one gram

In practice measuring 9,000 meters is both time-consuming and wasteful.

Usually a sample of 900 meters is weighed and the result multiplied by 10 to obtain the denier weight.

TEX- Weight in (gms ) of 1000 meters of fiber /yarn

Tex is more likely to be used in Canada and Europe,

Denier remains more common in the United States and United Kingdom

Cotton Counts:

The Number of HANKS of 840 yds in one pound of weight i.e

10 count cotton means that 10x840 yds weighs = 1 lb.

In the United Kingdom, ones to 40s are coarse counts (Oldham Counts), 40 to 80s are medium counts and above 80 is a fine count. In the United States ones to 20s are coarse counts.

Fibers

Cross Sectional shapeAffects-

Luster, Bulk, Body, Texture, & Hand— Round , Dog bone, Triangular, Lobal, Hallow etc…Through Orifice (opening in the body) . .insects extrudes Fiber, Cellulose is Built-during plant growth, Shape of hair follicle/ protien formation.

Fibers

CrimpTwo kinds….

FIBER CRIMP- Refers to -Waves. Bends, Coils, Curls Along length of fiberFABRIC CRIMP- Bends caused by Distortion of yarns due to weaving/knitting

Surface contourOuter Surface of the fiber Along its length- could be Smooth, Serrated, Strait, Rough

Fibers

Fibers are Classified in Generic groups by their chemical compositions.

Properties of One Generic groups DIFFER from another.

Polymerization- Atoms bonded in millions to form Molecular chains

Polymer- Small Molecules joined together to form a Long chain

Amorphous- When chains are arranged in RANDOM / DISORGANISED way

within the fiber.

Crystalline- Molecular chains are organized PARALLEL to each other

Hydrogen Bonds - Stronger than Vander Wals forces

Molecular chains are held to one another by intermolecular forces.

The closer the chains the stronger the bonds .

Occurs mainly in Crystalline areas making them more strong than Amorphous.

Chemical composition

Part-2-Fibers- TypesCellulosicProteinRegenerated fibersSyntheticSpecial use fibers

Fiber

Fibril Bundles

Macro fibrils

Polymers


NATURAL FIBERS

GROUP- (SUB Group) Name or Generic Name

Vegetable (cellulose)

Seed

Cotton ,

Kapok, Coconut

Bast

Flax

Hemp

Jute

Ramie

Leaf

Sisal

Manila

COTTON-

Fibers---CELLULOSIC- seed

(over 5000 years ago)- COTTON-Used for Making Textiles

Findings from Mohenjo-Daro suggest that.

Indian Cotton was Traded to Mediterranean Area from Alexander time – Who traded with EAST.

Venice was built due large Trade of Indian Cotton

,(8th Century) It thrived in Spain till Islam Came in 15th century.

Trade sea route established with Portugal

During 17th Century Britain became powerful in Textile manufacturing

18th Century America invented Cotton Gin.

And Britain developed spinning and weaving machinery.

Cotton Growing in 80 different countries World-wide.

Major Ones are-

USA, CHINA, INDIA, PAKISTAN, UZBEKISTAN, BRAZIL, TURKEY, AUSTRALIA , TURMENISTAN, EGYPT.

History

COTTON


• Cotton plant during Planting & Growth needs lot of water and for Ripening needs lot of heat.

• Mainly Grown in TROPICAL & Sub-TROPICAL Belt.

• After flowering …Fruit Nodes Grow into CAPSULE , which Cracks open to reveal Seed HAIRS

• Each Ball has 30 Seeds.

• Each SEED has 1000 to 10, 000 hair.

Harvesting Hand pick/machine pick

DryingNewly harvested seed is wet. Dry by Warm Air

GinningSeparate Fiber from seed-LINT

UtilizationMade into staple fiber yarns by spinning

PLANT

FLOWERING

CAPSULE cracks open- several SEED HAIR

Each BALL=30 SEED Each SEED= 1000s.HAIR


Commercial Quality

QULAITY STAPLE LENGTH

FINENESS COLOUR

UPLAND COTTON

(America)-

28mm Longer the fiber

Finer it is

Impurities are

detrimental to Quality

High

Quality

= to

High Strength

White

GIZA COTTONS (Egypt)

36mm Creamy-

to

Light Yellow- to

Brown

Silky texture

SEA ISLAND COTTON (West Indies)

50mm

COTTON-

COTTON-


Thermal Insulation Low

Moisture Absorption

HighUp to 65% of their own weight

Strength GoodStronger when wet than dry

Elasticity PoorCreases easily

Electrostatic charge Scarcely develop any charge as contain Moisture

Fineness Fine & soft

Next to skin Very Comfortable

Household textiles

Industrial Textiles

Bed clothes, Kitchen, Furniture coverings, Hand bath Towels

Protective Clothing, Awnings, Tarpaulins, Sewing Threads

Properties

Apparel Accessories

Shirts,

Blouses, Nightwear,

Trousers,

Jeans,

Handkerchiefs Laces, Ribbons, Umbrellas

Applications

Pure cotton

Good Quality

Fibers---CELLULOSIC- bast

FLAX / LINEN-

History

Major Ones are-

CHINA,

RUSSIAN FEDERATION,

UKRAINE,

FRANCE,

BELARUS,

NETHERLAND,

EGYPT,

ELGIUM,

CZECH REPUBLIC,

LITHUANIA

LINEN –KNOWN to Civilized Society for thousands of years.Cultivated by Ancient Egyptians, Babylonians etc..

Mummies found wrapped in LinenLinen was popular in Middle Ages as well.


FLAX / LINEN-

PLANT

• Flax is extracted from the Stalks of Plant.

• TALL Varieties - For Fiber (shorter for linseed oil).

• Grows best in Temperate Climate.

• Constructed from Cellulose Chain

Molecules.

• Flax is Stiffer than Cotton because of

Cement that holds Fiber.

• Flax has Smoother Surface than Cotton.

Harvesting Pulled-plant as a WHOLE till roots. .for full length / nowadays. machine pick

Roughing OutRemove Seed + other materials from Stems

RettingWoody part is degraded Thus, Fiber loosened-

(LAY IN..WARM WATER FOR 5-8 DAYS)

DryingFlax stalks Dried by Warm Air Oven

Breaking & ScutchingAfter retting- Stalks broken, Woody part removed by scutching.

Line fiber-(45-90cm), Scutcher tow-(10-25cm)

HacklingBast fiber combed into spinnable bundles

.(woody part + short fibers removed)

ProcessingLine /Tow-is spun into yarns.


FLAX / LINEN-

Thermal Insulation Poor-(cannot hold much air-

as smooth fiber.. Poor insulation)

Moisture Absorption

High(Absorbs Quickly and releases it quickly)

Strength Very GoodStronger when wet than dry

Elasticity LowestOf all apparel fiber…

Electrostatic charge NillAs contain Moisture

Fineness Coarse Fiber give Firm Handle.

Next to skin Harder and Stiffer Than cotton …(LESS SUPLE)

Lustre Smooth surface – gives Subdued Luster

Household textiles

Industrial Textiles

Bed clothes, Table cloths, Drapes, Mattress Linings, Furniture & Wall Coverings.

Tarpaulins (POLYTRAP)

water proof material)

Ropes, Threads

Properties

Apparel Accessories

Shirts, Suites, Skirts, Blouses, Trousers,

Interlinings for stiffening

Pockets

Bags

Shoes

Trimmings

Applications

FIBER NAME

USEFUL PART OF THE PLANT ORIGIN PROPERTIES APPLICATIONS

KAPOKFruit- seed hair fiber

Brazil, India, Indoneasia, Mexico, East & West, Africa

Very WEAK Fiber- due-to-

Large Air-Filled Lumen Cannot be Spun- into YARNS- Wax Coating -Repellent to water Fine, Soft ,Luster,

Stuffing & Wadding- Cushions, Bolsters, Mattresses, Filling in Life jackets

COCONUT Hard fiber - coconut

India, Indoneasia, Srilanka

High Abrasion resistance Durable Good Elasticity Not Soil easily Good Insulators

Floor Coverings Stair Carpets Ropes Furniture backings

HEMPBast fiber- outer surface of Bark/ Stem

Itlay Poland, Yugoslavia, Romania, Spain, Algeria

Coarse & Stiff Strong Elasticity is Good Rot slowly

Tarpaulins Ropes Carpet backings

FIBER NAME

USEFUL PART OF THE PLANT ORIGIN PROPERTIES APPLICATIONS

JUTE Bast fiber-

India, Bangladesh Pakistan

Woody & Irregular Strength is LOWER Than Flax Elasticity is similar to Flax Strong Aroma Can Rot Easy to Dye

Packaging fabrics Base Cloth for Belts & Tapestries Backing Cloth for Floor Coverings

RAMIEBast fiber- Far-east

USA

Strong High Grade Blast Fiber like Flax Smooth & uniform Easy to Dye Resistant to Light White & Has Lustre Absorbency Good Harder than Cotton

Fine , Light & Durable -Kitchen & Table Cloth Belts & Ribbons

SISAL Hard fiber-Leaves of SISAL

Brazil, Indoneasia, Mexico, East Africa

High -Strength High- Abrasion resistance Easy to Dye, Water resistance

Ropes Carpet , Nets, Matting, Harvest bindings

MANILAHard fiber -Leaves of BANANA

Manila N.America

Manila Stronger Than Sisal Resistance to Sea Water Low Density

Marine Cables, Ropes, Nets , Matting

Part-2-Fibers- TypesCellulosic

ProteinRegenerated fibersSyntheticSpecial use fibers


NATURAL FIBERS

GROUP- (SUB Group) Name or Generic Name

Animal (Protein)

Silk

• Cultivated

• Wild( Tussar)

Wool

Wool

Virgin wool

Fine hair-------------Alpaca

Lama, Vicuna, Guanaco, Camel, Rabbit, Angora, Mohair, Cashmere, Yak

Coarse hair…………Cattle

Horse

Goat

Fibers---PROTIEN- SILK

SILK

History

Major Ones are-

CHINA,

INDIA,

JAPAN ,

RUSSIA,

BRAZIL,

KOREA,

THAILAND ,

TURKEY,

FRANCE

Silk –.Chinese Empress Si-Ling Shi -Observed the caterpillar spinning itself into a Cocoon. She unraveled the filaments and made fabric… ..

Cocoons were Smuggled to Europe and Mediterranean Region thus, produced silk …from then…

Fibers--- PROTIEN- SILK

SILK

• Emerging From Egg, - worm feed on

MULBERRY LEAVES.

• Grows - As Caterpillar

• Fibroin is Extruded- ANIMAL PROTIEN

• Fibroin Filaments -made from – Fibril Bundles

---------------again are made from – Micro fibrils.

• Sericin- Silk GUM.- surrounds- 2 filaments

and hold them together-is PIGMENTED.

• 50,000 silkworm yield 1000kg of cocoons

yields 120kg of RAW SILK.

• We have Mulberry Silk & Wild Silk ( like Tussah)

Mulberry Silk- Cultivated SILK

Raw silk- Kills pupae with steam/ dryheat –

Cocoon placed in hot water-soften gum

Filaments end found and wounded on a reel.

7-10 filaments wounded together on a reel. and is called Raw Silk.

Spun Silk- Unwinnable remnants from Cocoon and

other waste silk ---is converted into-

Spun Yarn of long fibers Combed-are fine, smooth, regular

Noil silk- Shorter Waste Fiber Spun into- Coarser, Irregular, Nappy Yarn

Wild Silk- Recovered

Tussah-

• Wild Tussah cocoons are gathered from Trees & Bushes• Difficult to Degum & Reel it

• Retains its Reddish Brown Colour

• Variation In Finess-like irregular streaks…Degumming- Remove Gum-

by Gentle Boiling in mild soap solution.

Weighting- Degummed silk Made heavier by firming again with Metallic salts

Fibers--- PROTIEN

SILKThermal Insulation Good –Filament made into FINE FABRICS

(Enclose small volume of Air –cooling effect. Nevertheless…Compact silk are Good Insulators. .as..)

Layer of Warm Air lying between Fabric & Skin---Does not escape easily too. )

Moisture Absorption

Hygroscopic(Absorbs 1/3 of its weight of water vapour without feeling wet)

Strength Very Good Tenacity

Elasticity- & Extensibility

Outstanding Resilience-(does not wrinkle)

Very Good( 10-30%)

Electrostatic charge Nil--As contain Moisture

Fineness Coarse Fiber give Firm Handle.

Next to skin Harder and Stiffer Than cotton …(LESS SUPLE)

Luster/Fineness/Hand Has Luster, is Fine and Pleasant Handle…

Sensitivity Perspiration/ Deodorant spray-

cause Discoloration or Brittle the fiber

Household textiles

Industrial Textiles

Drapes ,

Wall coverings, Carpets,

Lampshades,

Bed clothes

Sewing Threads

Embroidered Threads

Racing Bicycle tyres

Properties

Apparel Accessories

Dresses, Blouses;

Formal dress

Sophisticated Lingerie

Scarves

Gloves

Ties ,Hats

Handbags Umbrellas

Artificial flowers

Applications

Fibers---PROTIEN- SILK

SILK

DEGUMMED- cultivated

WEIGHTED- cultivated

WILD SILK

Wrinkles LittleSuppleFine luster

RAW Smooth, Finest

SPUN/ Schappe-Fine, Smooth,regular

NOIL/Bourette Coarse, Neppy, Irregular

Wrinkles,Full ,Heavy, Stiff,Less Durable, Stronger Luster

Seldom Degummed,

Coarse, Not Uniform,

Harsh to Handle, Heavier,

Darker, Duller, Dull Luster,

More sensitive to perspiration

Above Properties are of Degummed RAW Silk- It varies also as per ……..Variety

Fibers---PROTIEN- WOOL

WOOL History

Major Ones are-

AUSTRALIAUSSRNEW ZEALANDCHINA, ARGENTINAURUGUAYSOUTH AFRICATURKEY,GREAT BRITAINPAKISTANGERMANY

WOOL FELTS – were known in China, Babaylon, Egypt…

Shearing not Pulling-of Wool- Invention During Iron Age- (Cutting Tools..found)

Sheep breeding… Started in 14th century in Spain..Then in 18th century in Australia..

Australia has 14% worlds sheep..population….

Fibers--- PROTIEN- WOOL

WOOL

PLANT

• WOOL fiber is made of –Keratin-

( PROTIEN MOLECULE )

• Long Chain Protein Molecules -formed Into FIBRILS-

• FIBRILS combine into- FIBRILLAR BUNDLES

• FIBRILLAR BUNDLES- Mass of Cell

• It has Scales on Fiber surface

Shearing

SHAVING the sheep- for Fleece

Classing

Fleece GRADED -(1-best -4-worst) -as per-

•Fineness,

•Crimp,

•Impurities,

•Color

Scouring

Dirt & Grease is removed- By Gentle Scouring

Carbonizing

Vegetable Impurities Removed –by Sulphuric Acid

Processing

Fibers processed into- Wollens or Worsted

Fiber

Fibril Bundles

fibrils

Protien molecule

Fibers--- PROTIEN- WOOL

WOOLThermal Insulation Excellent –

Bulky Looser yarn -better insulation than

Fine combed yarns)

Moisture Absorption Hygroscopic

Strength Practically Not DurableLower than normal Apparel

Elasticity Excellent

Electrostatic charge Develop only Small ChargeAs contain Moisture

Fineness Coarse / Fine depending on Variety

Next to skin Softness of wool depends on its Fineness

Fammability Does not Burn easily

Formability Durable shape Can be re-oriented under Heat & Moisture

Felting Due to Scales

Heat , Moisture & Mechanical action –felting happen

Household textiles

Industrial Textiles

Blankets

Carpets

Drapes

Furnishings.

Fire protecting clothing

Industrial felts

Properties

Apparel Accessories

Suites

Costume Pullovers

Waist Coats, Overcoats, Dresses

Ties

Socks

Hats

Scarfs

Stockings

Applications

Fibers---PROTIEN- WOOL

WOOL- Classification

WOOL- Classification

WOOL TYPE FINE MEDIUM LONG , COARSE

BreedMerino / Rambouillet South down Lincoln

Fineness/ Diameter Finest-15-23 Medium-24-30 Coarse above 30

Length 15-120 120-150 Over 150

Crimp/Waviness Highly crimped Normal crimped Low crimped

SourcesAustralia/South Africa Argentina, Uruguay New Zealand, Great Britain

Applications

Fine Outerwear, knitted & Woven Shawl, Socks

Heavier, Sporting Clothing

Carpets, Furniture Coverings

Shearing First shearing- (fine & not very strong) after 6 months….

Second shearing – after 10-12 months from 1st shearing

6-month, 8month, 12month interval…shearing

Source Australian, New Zealand, Cape

Origin Virgin Wool- Shorn from healthy sheep

Dead Wool from Sheep died from Natural death

Skin Wool- from slaughtered sheep

Recovered Wool- From Production waste & Second hand clothing

Spinning Worsted----Spun into Fine, Smooth, Combed Yarns

Woolens---More Voluminous, On Woolen Spinning System

Fibers---PROTIEN- WOOLWOOL- Classification

ALPACA

LLAMA

VICUNA

GUANACOSHORN –every 2 years

Both wild & domesticated- South America Sorted by Color + Fineness SOFT, LESS CRIMP, VERY WARM Blankets, Overcoats, Expensive knitted jackets,

CAMELSHORN –

every Year

SOFT, LESS CRIMP, FINE, Beige in Color Outer wear, Interlinings

CASHMERESHORN –

every Year

In Magnolia, Due to-High Altitudes- Has unusual FINE under fleece Fleece separated-by fineness & color Sorted by Color + Fineness SOFT, LIGHT , LUSTROUS, EXPENSIVE

MOHAIR/YAKSHORN –

Twice in a years

Angora Goat Texcas, S.Africa, Turkey LONG CURLED SILKY TEXTURE White ,Good for dyeing Outerwear

ANGORA/RABBIT SHORN –

Four times in a year

Angora Rabbit Europe, East Asia FINE , VERY LIGHT Thermal Underwear, Ski Underwear

ALPACA

VICUNA

LLAMA

GUANACO

Part-2-Fibers- TypesRegenerated fibersSynthetic

MAN-MADE FIBER SPINNING PROCESS

Classification of FibersMAN-MADE FIBER SPINNING PROCESS

ELEMENTS- Common to …..All 3 methods• Reservoir & Metering Pump Fiber forming material• Spinning Jet (Spinneret) Fluid in which Filaments are Formed• Take up Mechanism draws the Filaments & Winds them onto a package.

3 MAJOR SPINNING PROCESS

1. Wet Spinning- Spinning from a Polymer Solution

Polymer solution is extruded into bath containing chemicals which Neutralize Solvent & Solidify FilamentsE:G- Viscose, Acrylics

Neutralize Solvent & Solidify Filaments


2. Dry spinning-(Warm Air) Spinning from a Polymer Solution-

Polymer solution is extruded into the Stream of Warm air which Evaporates Solvent & Solidify Filaments

E:G - Acetate, Acrylics


3.Melt Spinning- (Cold Air) Spinning from a Polymer Melt

Molten Polymer - extruded into the stream of Cold air which Cools the MELT & Solidify Filaments

E.G -Polyester, Nylon


• Spinneret Shape – determines the Shape of FilamentE:G…Could be Circular or Some other shape.

•Different Cross sections- influences- LUSTER & HAND of fabric

• Filaments from different spinneret can be

Combined into a TOW… & Chopped into STAPLE fiber…

• MONO-filament- Spinneret has one Hole

• MULTI-filament-Spinneret has several Hole

Part-2-Fibers- TypesRegenerated fibers

CALLED Regenerated Coz…………Cellulose Scarcely is Altered during Process. Hence after Fiber Formation is AGAIN Cellulose. Therefore REGENRATED.

Regenerated fibers

Cellulosic:- Man -Made Fibers

Viscose process

Cuprammonium process

Acetate process

Organic process

E;G

Lyocell

HISTORY….

1900 is seen as the birth of Man- Made Fiber IndustryArtificial Stockings after 1st World War." Roaring Twenties”, Artificial Silk Lingerie etc…

E:G

Viscose, Modal

E;G Cupro E:G Acetate, triacetate

Regenerated fibers

Viscose process

VISCOSE- Use SODIUM HYDROXIDE solution+ CARBON DISULPHIDE to dissolve CELLULOSE. MODAL- Made from Modified Viscose Fiber. ( Solidifying bath has different chemicals resulting in Longer Cellulose molecules, improvement structure. Therefore, Higher strength.)

Cuprammonium processCUPRO- COPPER OXIDE & other copper compounds used to dissolve CELLULOSE.

Acetate process ACETATE & TRI-ACETATE – where cellulose HYDROXYL GROUP is replaced by

ACETYL GROUP. Hence properties are different.

Organic process-

LYOCELL- Now AMINE OXIDE with water (organic) is used.

• Extracted from- Eucalyptus/Pine /Beachwood

•Fiber length shorter than Cotton So, LOWER STRENGTH.

R. Fibers--- VISCOSE

Thermal Insulation Low, can be controlled to some extent

Moisture Absorption

More Absorbent than Cotton

Strength Lower than Cotton

Elasticity Wrinkle easilyElectrostatic charge Low as Contain Moisture

Fineness Fine and soft

Next to skin Comfortable

Coloration ExcellentLuster High Luster to Matt ( depends on cross

section)

CARE Viscose Swell in Water. Hence causes fabric to shrink. In Modal it is Less.

Properties

Applications

FILAMENT- Viscose

Use for

LUSTROUS FABRICS

LINNING FABRICS

Blouses, Shirts, dresses, Drapes, Lingerie, Ribbons Trimming

STAPLE -Viscose MODAL

Used in Blends-

Cotton , Wool Linen type-For- Absorbency, Uniformity, Luster

Used Primarily in BLENDS- with Cotton & Polyester

Underwear,Outerwear.

Part-2-Fibers- TypesSynthetic


Synthetic Fibers

Polyamides (Nylon) Poly acrylic, poly-olefins elastane

Polyesters Polyvinyl-chloride elastodiene

Polyvinyl-alcohols

Poly-tetra-fluro-ethylene

HISTORY….

Synthetic fibers breakthrough was with- NYLON STOCKINGS. in 1950s.

Lycra-(Elastomers) Developed in 1959etc…

1st generation was Cellulosic-Fiber-

2nd generation was Synthetic Fiber

3rd generation is of – ARMIDS, CARBON, CERAMIC. fibers.

Fibers--- NYLON / POLYAMIDEThermal Insulation Depends on whether fiber produced is

Flat, Textured, Staple.

Moisture Absorption Little

Strength Highest Tensile strength

Elasticity Very resilient, Wrinkle free

Electrostatic charge Has it, reduced by Finish

Fineness From Micro to Coarse

Next to skin Fine soft- for Apparels

Luster Matt to high Luster

Formability Thermoplastic- can be set

Resistance Resistant to alkalis, Fungi. Moulds, Sensitive to Dry heat & Light, Abrasion resistance..

Properties

Applications

Amide group

Nylon6-

Nylon 6.6-

High drape, stiff

STAPLE ARAMIDS

Used in Blends-

Cotton , Wool Linen type-

Fleece fabrics etc

Used Primarily in Protective ClothingBullet proof jackets

Racing drivers

Fire fighters

FILAMENT-

Sheer Stockings, Lingerie, Pile Upholstery

Swimming wear, Sportswear,

Water proof clothing

Umbrellas, Linnings, Dresses, Blouses

Fibers--- Synthetic- POLYESTER

Properties

Applications

Ester- group

STAPLE

Used in Blends- with

Cotton , viscose, modals, wool

Filling material-Fberfill

Wadding's

Sewing threads

FILAMENT-usually textured

Dresses, Blouses , Ties, Scarves,

Rain wear, Linnings, Net curtains

FLAME RESISTANCE- good for children wear, hotel beddings, Theater.HIGH TENACITY- Tent proof, tarpaulins, tyre cords, ..

Thermal Insulation Depends on whether fiber produced is Flat, Textured, Staple.

Moisture Absorption

Little

Strength Highest Tensile strength

Elasticity Very resilient, Wrinkle free

Electrostatic charge Has it, reduced by Finish

Fineness From Micro to Coarse

Next to skin Fine soft- for Apparels

Luster Matt to high Luster

Formability Thermoplastic- can be set

Resistance Resistant to Alkalis Acids, Fungi. Moulds, Light & Heat.

FIBER NAME PROPERTIES APPLICATIONS

ACRYLIC

Propylene + Ammonia

Alone / Blended

Bulky spun, wool like-durable,

Blended Esp. with WOOL.

Resistance to weatherPoor –Shrink when washed

Socks, Blankets, Awnings, Outerwear, Carpets, Furnishings

MODA-ACRYLICModified Acrylics- Are Flame resistant

Protective Clothing

DUNOVA Acrylic Fiber Very PORUSUsed for Warm & Absorbent-Underwear

NYLON Amide

Excellent Abrasion , wind, water resistance..Elasticity, Heat set

Protective Clothing

Carpeting, Umbrellas. Sports goods,

POLYESTEREster Very Versatile fiber

Widest end use-Heat-Flame-resistant, Antistatic, High Crimp, Low pill, High strength..

OLEFINSPoly-ethylene

Strong abrasion resistance Low softening temp.No wrinkle

Absorbs no water

Ropes, Cables, Nets, FiltersSports UndergarmentsUpholstery, carpetingCarpet backing

FIBER NAME Sub-group PROPERTIES APPLICATIONS

FLUORO FIBERS

Tetra Fluoro-ethyleneWater repellentHeat & Chemical resistanceCannot be dyed Weather proof clothing

CHLORO FIBERS PVC High Chemical resistance Protective & thermal wear

ELASTOMERS Poly urethane

Highly extensible, Elastic, Dyed easily, Compared to RubberDyed, Washable

Swimwear, stockings, Stretch clothing

RUBBERElastomer

SPANDEX/lycraElastomer

Extensible, dyeable, resistance to body oils, long shelf life than rubber,

Shape wear, Hosiery, Swimwear, Biking

VINYALSPoly Vinyl Alcohol-PVA

Water- Soluble & insoluble types Adhesives, Separation yarns

ARMIDS AmideResistance to Alkalis, Heat, Chemicals, Flame, aromatic, P rotective Clothing

FIBER NAME Sub-group PROPERTIES APPLICATIONS

GLASS GLASS

Does not BurnLow moisture AbsorptionBrittle

Draperies of Public buildings, Reinforced plastics

CARBON CARBONHigh strength, High Heat resistance Reinforced plastics

METAL METALLurex- thin sheet of metal like fine ribbon Lurex trims & borders,


Fibers- Burning & Microscopic tests

Education

Tex,5 fibers