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Photography LO2 - canon guide

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Page 1: Photography LO2 - canon guide

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Page 2: Photography LO2 - canon guide

Aperture (AV mode)

First of all, ‘Aperture’ is the technical name for the hole in the lens of the camera, this setting

is key in landscape photography as it controls the depth of field in a photograph: depth of field

is the definition of how blurred/focused the background of an image is.

This setting is controlled by switching the camera settings to Aperture Priority (AV) – this lets

you manually control the aperture whilst letting the rest of the setting are adjusted by the

camera to get the right end product – the camera does this using a complex system –

sometimes the ISO is also adjusted during this process.

This setting is also useful in portraiture as photographers use the advantages of Aperture to

blur the background of an image so that the central focus is on the main subject at hand. The

sizes of the lens’ are measured and known as F-numbers.

The lower the F-number – the bigger the aperture, this reduces the depth of field and lets

more light in to the photograph.

Wider settings let more light in, this is useful in low light conditions and will reduce the depth

of field in the picture.

The higher the F-number – the smaller the aperture, this increases the depth of field and

reduces the amount of light being let in to the final image.

Using this setting often requires a tripod as the camera needs a longer exposure time to

avoid camera shake or movement.

The correct exposure or the desired effect is achieved by balancing out the settings.

Page 3: Photography LO2 - canon guide

This photograph was taken with the

Aperture setting of F4.5 – this has

focused on the background more than

it’s focused on the foreground, giving

more attention to detail to the main

subject of the photograph, which in this

case, is the clay. This proves that the

lower the F number (Aperture) the higher

depth of field, it’s focused on the table at

the back rather than the table right in

front of the camera.

This photograph was taken with the

Aperture setting of F13 – the difference

between this image and the first one with

the setting of F4.5 is that the table all

around the clay sculpture is more in

focus than it was in the first image –

looking at the first photograph and then

this one it’s easy to see that there is an

obvious difference, although the

foreground is sharper, it still isn’t as

sharp as the table right in front of the

camera – this is still noticeable at first

glance.

For this image, I changed the Aperture

settings to F22, in this image the clay

sculpture and the table surrounding it is

sharper and in focus – if you put the

images beside each other you can

definitely tell the difference. This proves

that the higher the Aperture setting, the

smaller the hole, the more light is let in

and the whole image in turn becomes

more focused in every aspect.

F4.5

F13

F22

Page 4: Photography LO2 - canon guide

Shutter Speed (TV mode)

This is the length of time the shutter on a camera is open for when taking photographs.

Shutter Priority mode (S or TV) should be enabled – this lets you manually choose how long

the shutter will be open for, the camera will adjust other settings to get the right exposure.

Shutter speed is presented in fractions of a second such as: 1/30.

Bigger numbers = faster the shutter opens and closes – the shutter speed is measured in

whole seconds as exposure gets longer.

Slower speeds are used to show movement and when they are used there is a longer pause

between the shutter opening and closing – this allows a longer time for movement to be

captured. This also allows more light in and is also good in dark conditions - using a tripod to

avoid camera shake, because more light hits the censor in the camera aperture settings are

often adjusted to increase the depth of field.

A faster shutter speed enables a photographer to essentially freeze a moment in time – it

means that there is a shorter capture time and less time to capture movement so taking these

photographs often require a quick snap of a particular scene, it also ensures a sharp, focused

image that captures moments that human eyes can not, however, these images require a lot

of either ambient or artificial lighting.

Page 5: Photography LO2 - canon guide

The first shutter speed is 1/250 of a

second – we can observe that the

camera has not picked up a mass

majority of movement here – the camera

has taken the image at a very fast pace

and captured a very sharp, focused

image of the subject walking by – there

is only a slight blur to show that it has

picked up at least a little bit of the

movement – although the image appears

to be darker – as the ISO settings have

altered to get the right exposure, there is

a considerable amount of detail.

The second shutter speed was 1/30 of a

second – we can see that the camera

has picked up some form of movement

but it is not as clear as the first image –

the person walking by is slightly blurred

but not very – this has shown an obvious

difference in camera settings - it’s also

quite easy to distinguish what is what in

this image: i.e. their face. We can also

see that the ISO settings have been

altered to get the right exposure as the

wall in the background is slightly different

in colour as opposed to the first image.

The last shutter speed is 1 / 5 of a

second – as we can observe, from a first

glance, it’s very obvious it the camera

and setting has picked up the movement

of the person walking past easily by

blurring any part of the subject that is

moving – in this case their whole body –

it’s hard to distinguish exactly what is

what in this image – i.e. where her head

is etc. The ISO has clearly changed as

the entire image is brighter in

comparison to the other two

photographs.

1/250

1/30

1 / 5

Page 6: Photography LO2 - canon guide

ISO settings

This changes the camera’s censor sensitivity – the bigger the number the more

sensitive/faster the film/censor is.

Faster films/censors needs less light.

Slow films/censors need more light.

If you’re photographing in lower lighting conditions without a tripod or support of some kind,

faster ISO speeds or faster films should be used.

As the ISO speeds increase there is a higher chance of seeing ‘noise’ in a photograph: image

noise is the random variation of brightness/colour information in a photograph – the effect

makes certain parts of the image looks grainy or have a sand like texture, noise is usually

regarded as a bad thing as it lowers the photographs quality. It becomes most noticeable in

shadows or in larger areas of similar colours: i.e. The sky, the ocean, a wall etc.

Low ISO speed is required to avoid ‘noise.’ you can have a sharp photograph but when it is

cropped to, for example: 100 x 80 pixels, it can produce a bad quality end image. The higher

the ISO setting, the more the pixels are forced to become brighter than they already are thus

causing them to ‘pop’ and therefore creating a ‘gravelly’ image.

Page 7: Photography LO2 - canon guide

The ISO setting for this first image was

1600 – we can see that in the middle of

the photograph it’s light and clear – there

is a slight darkness around the edges of

the image that shows the censors

sensitivity to the light although it’s not

extremely obvious when you first glance

at the image.

This second image has the ISO setting

of 800 – we can see that there is still a

lot of light in this image however, the

slight darkness that was around the

edges in the first photograph with ISO

1600 has darkened considerably and

become more blatantly obvious so that at

first glance – you can see it.

The last image has the ISO setting of

100 – from the first glance we can tell

that there is not a lot of light in this image

– it’s almost pitch black apart from the

centre of the photograph which still

allows some light in and makes the fire

extinguishers still visible – it is very

obvious when you look at it that the

censor has not picked up a lot of light.

6400

800

100

Page 8: Photography LO2 - canon guide

White Balance

This helps the camera understand what ‘white’ is – it may sound odd but a camera doesn’t

recognise white.

The auto-white balance setting works in most situations although it depends on what your

desired end product is – you may want to change the settings or the colour.

For example: using a ‘cloudy’ setting on a sunny day gives the end photograph a

warm/yellowy tint.

Sometimes the settings will need to be altered if the colours are not being reproduced

correctly or other times you can use the wrong white balance for a desired effect on your end

photograph.

Page 9: Photography LO2 - canon guide

The first image has been taken with the white balance setting of: White Fluorescent – this

allows the image to come out bright, with a hint of blue in parts – it makes the white of the

walls look extremely bright in comparison to the other object in the image.

The second image was taken with the white balance setting of: Tungsten light – this has

turned any white in the image in to a shade of blue, it’s definitely changed the shadows to

a darker blue.

The third image has been taken with the white balance setting of: Daylight – this has made

the white of the walls become a darker and made the overall image look borderline black

and white, it has kept the other object to it’s original colour and made the lights in the

reflection of the object more vivid.

The last photograph has been taken with the white balance setting of: Shade – this has

enhanced the darker, yellow colour that we observed in the third photograph and made it

darker and more eye catching – the TV has become darker and so has the reflections in

the TV – although the only thing brighter in this image seems to be the lights in the

reflection.

Tungsten LightWhite Fluorescent

ShadeDaylight

Page 10: Photography LO2 - canon guide

Original image

Cropped

Page 11: Photography LO2 - canon guide

Levels

Dodging and burning

Page 12: Photography LO2 - canon guide

Colour adjustments