Copyright Notice:

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or

transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, or mechanical, including

photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system.

DISCLAIMER:

No One actually fully knows that structure or working of the credit scoring

model as it is an industry secret. The author has used years of experience and

exposure to the workings of the credit scoring and through observation

of numerous clients credit reports and also through the congruent

observations of other credit report experts in the industry. The author

encourages reader to do their own research to validate the facts.

Do It Yourself Credit Repair: A No

Brainer for People with Bad Credit?

Special Report:

Is It Really Possible To Not Only Clean Up Your Own Credit But To do It Much

More Quickly With Better Results And With A Fraction Of Price Otherwise Paid To

Credit repair Companies? This special report investigates.

This was the big question on everyone’s mind. But according the author of the Amazon Best Seller book, “How To

Raise Your Credit Scores 25-100 Points In 48 Hours, Guaranteed”, the answer is a resounding YES!

In today’s economy of 2012, most people are struggling more than ever financially. Average household

incomes are down but expenses are up. It was inevitable that we would see a sharp rise in the number

of people suffering from less than perfect credit scores. But due to recent industry changes, bad credit

could be costing the consumers more than ever before! Whereas in the past it only used to be banks

and lenders that applied risk based pricing on their products, now a days even insurance companies and

some utility companies will charge you more if your scores are not good. To add to the bunch, a lot of

employers too now routinely check credit as part of back ground verification process!

While the need for credit restoration is on the rise, credit repair companies are having a party. It is more

expensive than ever to get your credit cleaned up. Most companies will practice devious means to keep

the client hooked on to their monthly subscription for years by deliberately taking a very long time in

getting the clients credit up to par. If the consumer wants to find out facts regarding credit repair on the

internet, he is faced with an ocean of all kinds of information on this vast subject. Most of it is incorrect

information and the consumers just end up getting frustrated. Meanwhile, their bills keep getting higher

and higher every month.

A much needed relief seems to be finally here. Keeping in mind the impossible situation created by

credit repair companies, author Eram Saeed, decided to write a book that outlines a blue print on how

to fix credit and raise credit scores quickly. Eram Saeed is a veteran lender and runs a mortgage branch

for a commercial lender. In her 10 plus years’ experience as a mortgage lender, she has repaired the

credit reports of numerous clients in order to get them qualified for loans. This is stuff she knows like

the back of her hand. She not only teaches credit repair from the perspective of consumers but also

teaches what the lenders look for. A unique approach that none of the credit repair companies can

offer, but is extremely valuable to those seeking any kind of loan.

What’s more, Eram has fearlessly revealed the almost secret technique for credit repair that regular

consumers never hear about. It’s called Rapid Rescoring and it has been available to bankers and lenders

for years. Through this technique one can raise credit scores within 48 hours and save thousands of

dollars immediately!

The fact that this information is extremely useful to people is obvious by the almost instant success of

this book. “How To Raise Your Credit scores 25-100 Points In 48 Hours, Guaranteed” was published on

Amazon in January 2012. It has become a Best Seller on Amazon Kindle since April. It is currently being

translated in Spanish.

For the price of only a book, Eram’s readers are able to get a better understanding of their credit and

raise their scores quickly and efficiently. On average, getting to a fico score of 680 or above will save you

between $500.00 to $1000.00 per month.

Eram’s book focuses on the most important agenda on a consumers mind suffering from poor credit

scores: how to clean credit quickly and raise scores so that they can qualify for better rates and save

money immediately. In this economy, no one has the luxury to wait 6 months to a year to see results.

Now they don’t have to!

If you would like to learn more about this book or how to clean up your credit in record time using easy

but effective tools, you can go to Amazon and buy the book which is now in paperback edition as well as

Kindle. Audio version to be released in May 2012.

Here is what Eram’s readers are saying about this book:

“Eram Saeed knows credit repair! I was very skeptical in the beginning, as I have worked with several

credit repair professionals over the years. After reading her book and applying her principals I began to

see FAST results. My credit score increased 83 points in 4 days. I simply followed her "flow chart" of

……………………Please click here to read the full review ~ AT Zermeno. Real Estate investor, Under writer.

“Hi, I bought the e-book (Kindle) for this book, and I can tell you it is the best-spent money ever!!! This

book WILL tell you step by step how to fix your score in a Jiffy. Bought last night and today I already have

a detailed plan on what and …………………………………………..Please click here to read the full review

I am VERY IMPRESSED!!! If this works for me it will ALSO work for YOU!!! “ ~Eduardo, book reader.

“My name is Garry Davis, an attorney in Dallas, Texas. I do immigration law, so finance, credit and other

issues are not really my thing. Reading Eram's book opened my eyes to a world I never really

understood………………………………………………………….Please click here to read the full review.

Thanks Eram for such great work!” ~ Gary Davis, Attorney.

“It doesn't give you fluff or dance around. But proof is in the pudding so I tested the techniques she gave.

Here's the result: I digged up the proof of pay- off statement and gave them to my loan broker to fax to

the credit company. 7 days later he pulled my new report and my score had jumped up 50 points

total....30 points only on Experian. He is giving me a better interest rate and also charging me less money

…………………………………………………………………………………………………Please click here to read full review

I'm so glad I found this book. Thank you!” ~ S. joseph, book reader.

Table of Contents These are the materials by the author Eram Saeed, that were studied in depth to determine the

conclusion for this special report.

Learning the Basics: Credit Repair 101: Before doing anything else, you must know where you

stand, what you have to work with and what your ultimate goals are. The very first step is to obtain a

copy of your credit report from all 3 agencies……. In closing, getting accurate information is your first

line of defense when tackling with the credit bureaus and their clients i.e. the creditors.

Everything You Need To Know When Dealing With Collection Agencies: One of the

most obvious and damaging items on a person’s credit report are collections. Most often, there will be

multiples entries of the same collection item. You must dispute these to get them removed as “duplicate

items”……….Remember, you probably won't win if you can prove only a few minor violations. But if the

violations are outrageous, you can sue the collection agency and creditor in regular civil court.

Most Effective And Top Five Methods of Settling Collections on Your Credit

Report: Have you have recently pulled your credit report and been dismayed to find some of your

delinquent accounts have been sold to a collection company. If yes, there is no need to be afraid! The

reality is that collections are the easiest things to get off your credit report…………. If you have collections

on your credit report, using one or a combination of these excellent strategies is sure to bear great

results in time. Patience and persistence is the key when doing credit repair.

CONCLUSION: After studying the material and understanding credit basics, it becomes quite obvious

that do- it-yourself- credit- repair is not only possible but the best approach for a savvy consumer.

Caution must be exercised that the source of information that one uses is reliable. This report only

outlines some excerpts from Eram Saeed’s book. The Rapid Rescoring method is not covered in the

following pages nor some of the other credit repair information due to lack of space.

Written by Eram Saeed www.perfectficonow.com

Learning the Basics: Credit Repair 101

The following is a basic introduction to credit repair. You have more legal rights and avenues than what

can possibly be listed here, so be sure to read my book and the free articles on my website to get more

information.

Beginning point: Gather your information and credit report

Before doing anything else, you must know where you stand, what you have to work with and what your

ultimate goals are. The very first step is to obtain a copy of your credit report from all 3 agencies. Each

Consumer Reporting Agency (CRA) maintains its own, separate database, and the information on each

report is often different. So make sure to get all 3 reports as one report could differ a lot from the

other. You are entitled to one free report a year or if you have already used that option, you can order

each report individually below for a cost of about $8-$10 each:

Experian - www.experian.com

Equifax - www.equifax.com

TransUnion - www.transunion.com

You can also order all 3 reports at once thru myFICO, a division of Fair Isaac.

If you have applied for credit and got denied for insurance, or employment, you should have received a

"notice of adverse action". This will spell out how to get a free copy of the report used in the decision.

Note that this will not get you copies of the other two reports.

Once you have your reports you will need to understand the information within them. You report is

divided into several sections:

Personal Information – In this segment, you should verify that all information regarding your name,

address, employer, date of birth, Social Security number, spouses' name, etc. is correct. You may find

that variations of each are showing up and may be may be listed along with former addresses and

names. This information is usually obtained from creditors and also from you when you filled out a

credit application.

Perhaps the first thing to attack is all of the old addresses and name variations. These serve no positive

purpose on your report. If this information is needed by a creditor, you can supply it on an as-needed

basis. These items can be removed by calling or writing the CRA, and asking for their removal, as they

are "not accurate

Public Records – This section will list any bankruptcies, liens, judgments, garnishments, or even felony

convictions. Anything that is a public court record is fair game.

You must review this information carefully and in detail. It has often passed through many hands

between the courthouse and CRA to finally show up on your credit report, and is prone to errors. You

can dispute this information just like anything else on your report. But be careful what kind of

documentation you send to the agencies in an effort to "correct" your report. A lot of people

inadvertently end up verifying the information by their own submission, making it's dispute nearly

impossible later.

Inquiries – This will tell you who has "pulled" a copy of your report. Inquiries can be of two kinds, "hard"

and "soft".

"Hard" inquiries are a result of you applying for something, or a current creditor looking at your report.

These are the inquiries that lenders can see. "Soft" inquiries are only viewable by you, and are

commonly the result of you pulling your own report, or marketing inquiries. There are specific reasons

which must be met before anyone can pull your report. "Permissible Purpose" refers to the legal

requirements for anyone to do so. Generally, you must:

1) Apply for something, like credit or insurance.

2) Have a current, open account with the creditor.

3) Have otherwise given your permission for the report to be pulled.

Companies or individuals pulling your report without "Permissible Purpose" are violating Federal Law,

and subject to fines of $1,000, more in certain states.

Credit History Information– All of your payment history will be reflected in the credit history section.

Also, your loans, leases, mortgages, credit cards and collection accounts will be listed here. If you have

made on time payments or not on different accounts will show up in this section. The important details

you will need to pay attention to are:-

Date of Last Activity: This reflects the last activity on the account but what’s more important is that this

is the date that is used to start the 7-year reporting clock. Most often you will find that the account was

last used few years before the date the agencies are reporting. This trick enables the creditors to keep

the debt on your credit past the statute of limitations.

Date Last Reported - This is the last date that the creditor supplied an update to the CRA. It has no

bearing on reporting period.

Account Type: The type of credit you carry and the distribution of the different types of lines will have

an impact your score.” R” denotes a revolving account, for example a credit card. Whereas“ I" denotes

an installment account such as a home or car loan. Make sure they are listed correctly as having too

many revolving accounts and not enough installment accounts will also have an adverse effect on your

credit report.

Payment history: It is obvious that being late will affect your score negatively. What is important to

know here is that recent late payments have a much bigger effect than older late payments do. Recent

would be anything within 6 months. The difference between a recent late vs. an older late can be 80

points sometimes! Here is how you can read the codes for the late payment history.

0 - Too new to rate

1 - Pays account as agreed

2 - Not more than two payments past due

3 - Not more than three payments past due

4 - Not more than four payments past due

5 - At least 120 days or more than for payments past due

7 - Making regular payments under W.E.P (wage earner plan)

8 - Repossession

9 - Bad Debt; placed for collection; skip

Limit/Original Amount: -This is basically your credit limit for that particular trade line. If it’s an

installment loan, then the original amount of the loan at it's inception would be considered the limit. But

if it’s a revolving account, it will be the high credit limit allowed by your creditor for that account. This is

used to compute your credit utilization. Staying under 30% on revolving accounts is advisable.

Balance - The amount owed as of the date reported. You may owe less than what is reflected but

depending on the date that the creditor reports to the bureaus, you may never see the real time balance

being reported. If you know this beforehand, you can request your credit report to be pulled at the

appropriate time to enhance your scores.

Open/Closed - Whether an account is open, active, and available for your use, or closed and no longer

usable. Closed by Consumer indicates that the account was closed at your request. This has neither a

positive nor negative effect. Closed By Credit Grantor indicates that the account was closed by the

creditor, often involuntarily. This is nearly always seen as a negative.

How long do items remain on the report?

Bankruptcies remain 10 years from the date discharged.

Other negative items remain no longer than 7 years from the date of first delinquency. Positive items

can remain indefinitely, but no less than 10 years. Inquiries remain for 2 years, with those in the last 6

months usually given the most consideration.

Credit Scoring

Often, a Credit Score is provided with your report, or available for an extra charge. The credit bureaus

use their own credit-scoring formulas which are so far a secret. The details of how the scoring model

calculates are never shared but with experience and seeing thousands of credit reports, one gets a fair

idea. These scores are of varying accuracy and a lender will typically take the middle of the three scores.

It is not unusual to see a difference of a 100 points from one bureau to another.

Ok, now you have a pretty good idea of what’s being reported on your credit report. I also recommend

that you take some time to read the FCRA (Fair Credit Reporting Act) and FDCPA (Fair Debt Collection

Practices Act). These are the laws that apply to credit reporting and debt collection. You have specific

rights under each of these. Understanding your rights will be really helpful infighting with the creditors

and moving forward financially. Read and understand these laws to get a good understanding of your

rights.

You will find that you have the right to dispute any information contained on your credit report that you

feel is incorrect in the slightest degree. This is done by writing to the credit bureaus. You may use the

dispute letters provided on the website for free. Once you send in the complaint, the credit bureau is

then required to verify that information with the original creditor. By Law, they are only given 30 days to

do so.

If they are unable to verify the information within the time allowed, it must be deleted. Note that

whether the account is "really" yours or not has no bearing on their responsibility to verify it. If it cannot

be verified, it must be deleted.

You also have the right to get validation of debt. You do this by demanding that the creditor prove to

you that the account is really your responsibility and that the balances are accurate. If debt collector is a

collection agency, they must also prove that they have legal right to collect the debt. Once you have

made the request for “validation” in writing, they must STOP all collection activity, including reporting

and verifying, until they supply proper validation to you. There is no time limit specified in which they

have to validate. However, they cannot continue collection activities until they provide such.

Sometimes, Collection Agencies will stop collection activities and return the account to the original

creditor rather than validate. This is perfectly legal.

If you are dealing with the original creditor, under the FDCPA, they are not required to do so. They may

supply validation at their option. However, you do have the right to dispute directly with an original

creditor any information reported that you feel is incorrect. Once they have received your dispute, they

must investigate the reported info. They must also report that particular account as disputed with the

credit bureaus.

If you demand validation from a creditor who is already listing a derogatory trade line on your credit

report, they are required to reflect that activity on your credit report as "disputed by consumer" (or

similar language). They may NOT place a new listing, or verify a current listing with the CRA until they

have provided you with validation.

It is most always a good idea to send any communication to the creditors, credit bureaus or debt

collectors via certified mail as this gives you proof, in the form of a receipt. You must be very diligent in

building your case against the bureaus to get guaranteed results that your credit will get cleaned up.

Be careful in selecting your method of dispute. Most of the time "not mine" is an acceptable starting

place. If you decided to dispute indicating "wrong dates" or "balance incorrect", it would imply that you

have some knowledge of the account. If that strategy bears no fruit, making a later dispute of "not

mine" become pretty awkward and may be considered frivolous.

Always, be very careful in what information you supply to the credit bureaus. Examine any and all court

papers or collection statements you decide to provide in an attempt to correct your report. Many

people find that those very papers were used against them later on in court! You won't be able to claim

"not mine" on an account that you previously verified yourself. It's not your job to prove what is being

reported. It is theirs. If they are reporting it, they must be able to prove it, without you sending in

"supporting" documentation.

In closing, getting accurate information is your first line of defense when tackling with the credit bureaus

and their clients i.e. the creditors.

Written by Eram Saeed www.perfectficonow.com

Everything You Need To Know When

Dealing With Collection Agencies One of the most obvious and damaging items on a person’s credit report are collections. Most often,

there will be multiples entries of the same collection item. You must dispute these to get them removed

as “duplicate items”.

For the legit collections, most people feel lost on how to go about negotiating these collections and

what a good offer is. Usually 25% of the balance is a good place to start. The collection company usually

acquires these bad debts for pennies on the dollar. So 25% would still make them a profit. But before we

study the negotiation in detail, let’s first examine your legal rights in this area. Collection companies are

notorious for pushing the envelope or out and out breaking the law when it comes to debt collection.

The knowledge that they are conducting themselves in a manner prohibited by Law will be very helpful

in building your case.

Prohibited Conduct by a Collection Agency

The FDCPA prohibits the debt collectors from engaging certain practices. Following is a list that will give

you a fair idea:

Hours for Phone Contact: Contacting consumers by telephone outside the hours of 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

local time is prohibited.

Failure to Cease Communication when explicitly requested : If a consumers has informed the debt

collector in writing that they refuse to pay the bill and no longer wish to be contacted by the creditor,

failure to desist immediately is prohibited. In addition, engaging a person in a telephone conversation

repeatedly or continuously with intent to annoy, abuse, or harass any person is strictly against the law.

Contacting a person at their place of employment: If you have informed them that this is not

acceptable and they continue to do so, they are in violation.

Continuing to communicate after the consumer has requested validation of debt: Communicating with

the consumer after receipt of a consumer's written request for verification of a debt made within the 30

day validation period (or for the name and address of the original creditor on a debt) and before the

debt collector mails the consumer the requested verification or original creditor's name and address.

Misrepresentation of facts: Using deception to collect the debt by claiming to be an attorney or a law

enforcement officer. In addition, collection agency cannot demand amounts not permitted under

applicable contract or law.

Threatening arrest or legal action: The threat to take any action that cannot legally be taken is

prohibited.

Using Abusive or Profane Language or threatening to publish consumers name or address on a "bad

debt" list.

Contacting Third Parties: Revealing or discussing your debt with neighbors, co-workers, family

members (other than spouse), or friends is strictly prohibited.

Reporting False Information on a Consumer's Credit Report - or threatening to do so in the process of

collection.

Required Conduct by a Collection Agency

Now that we have learnt what a collection agency can NOT do, let’s find out what actions they are

required to take when trying to collect on a debt from a consumer. According to The FDCPA, debt

collectors must adhere to the following actions:

Identify themselves to the consumer: In every communication, they must inform you that the

communication is from a debt collector, and that any information obtained will be used to effect

collection of the debt.

Give the name and address of original creditor: Upon the consumer's written request for the

information on the original creditor, they must furnish said information within 30 days of receipt of the

notice.

Notify the consumer of their right: As a consumer, you have every right to dispute the debt and the

debt collector must communicate that to you. If you have an attorney, the debt collector may not

contact anyone other than your attorney. If you do not have an attorney, a collector may contact other

people, but only to find out where you live and work. Collectors are usually prohibited from contacting

such permissible third parties more than once. In most cases, the collector is not permitted to tell

anyone other than you and your attorney that you owe money.

Provide verification of debt: If consumer has sent a written request for verification, then the debt

collector must either mail the consumer the requested verification information within 30 days, or cease

collection efforts altogether. Verification should include at a minimum the amount owed and the name

and address of the original creditor. Within five days after you are first contacted, the collector must

send you a written notice telling you the amount of money you owe; the name of the creditor to whom

you owe the money; and what action to take if you believe you do not owe the money. A collector may

not contact you if, within 30 days after you are first contacted, you send the collection agency a letter

stating you do not owe money. However, a collector can renew collection activities if you are sent proof

of the debt, such as a copy of a bill for the amount owed

File a lawsuit in a proper venue: A debt collector may file a lawsuit, only in the place where the

consumer lives or signed the contract. Most often, debt collectors fail to comply.

What to do if your rights have been violated

If you feel that your rights have been violated by the collection agency, you can report them and seek

retribution.

First, try to get the collector back on the phone and repeat whatever you said the first time that caused

the collector to make the illegal statement(s). Ideally, you should have a witness listen in on an

extension. Otherwise you can tape the conversation. Recording is permitted without the collector's

knowledge in all states except California, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Illinois, Maryland,

Massachusetts, Michigan, Montana, New Hampshire, Pennsylvania and Washington.

Next, you need to file a complaint. You can file a complaint whether or not you have a witness. The

complaint will be filed to your state consumer protection agency (who in some cases is your state

attorney general's office).

Finally, send a copy of your complaint to the creditor who hired the collection agency. The creditor may

stop the collection efforts all together if the violations are considered severe enough. If the violations

are ongoing, you can sue both the collection agency and the creditor that hired them for up to $1,000 in

small claims court for violating the FDCPA. Remember, you probably won't win if you can prove only a

few minor violations. But if the violations are outrageous, you can sue the collection agency and creditor

in regular civil court.

Written by Eram Saeed www.perfectficonow.com

Most Effective and Top Five

Methods of Settling Collections on

Your Credit Report

Have you have recently pulled your credit report and been dismayed to find some of your delinquent

accounts have been sold to a collection company. If yes, there is no need to be afraid! The reality is that

collections are the easiest things to get off your credit report. Everyone in the industry knows that

collection agencies have poor documentation. Furthermore, they are usually not actually authorized or

licensed to collect on the debt. As a result of the shaky status of collection accounts, there are many

techniques you can use to attack the collection agency and eventually get that collection record off your

credit report.

Here are the top 5 techniques you can use:

Pay for the Delete

Settle the Debt

Debt Validation

Dispute with the Original Creditor

Dispute with the Credit Bureaus

Most of these methods have been discussed in the previous sections. In this article we will explore in

detail how to get rid of a collection if the avenues for dispute are not open.

Pay for the Delete:

This situation is best for small collection amounts, $500 or less, like medical collections or utility bills.

You get the collection agency to agree to remove the listing from your credit report if you pay the debt

amount. This is a very successful technique. If you have some cash, this is the easiest technique to use

when trying to remove collections from your credit report.

In short, you agree to pay them the entire amount, netting the collection agency a handsome profit, and

you get the account deleted from your credit report, netting you a handsome increase in your credit

score. Even if you are strapped for cash, most people can afford to pay $500 to a collection agency. If it's

over $500, this is still an excellent technique.

How much should you offer to the debt collectors?

For debts over $500, paying a maximum of 25% of the total is suggested.

At 25%, the collection agency is still making a handsome profit. To understand this you have to

remember that most bad debt companies pay or receive literally pennies on the dollar for the debts on

which they are trying to collect.

The amount that companies pay for bad debt depends on the type of account and its age:

Debts that have recently been charged off are in the range of 6 to 7 cents on the dollar.

Accounts that are slightly older and on which other collection agencies have been unsuccessful to

collect, would be in the range of 1.5 cents to 2 cents on the dollar.

Years-old, out-of-statute debts would have run a penny or even less.

(* Source: Sean McVity, portfolio broker at Keefe, Bruyette & Woods)

Keeping this in mind, you should always begin your negotiations at 25% or less.

Let's look at this in detail. Let’s say the balance on your debt is $1,000. Let’s assume that at the most,

the collection agency has paid 7 cents on the dollar. That means they bought the debt for $70. If you

offer them $250 (25%), they would still be making a profit of $180. Keep in mind that the original credit

card companies are out of the picture at this point. The collection agency will be keeping the full

amount.

How to carry out pay for Delete technique:

Write to the collection agency and offer to pay the amount at 25% (or at whatever amount you feel you

can sell them on). In return, they must remove the collection account from your credit report.

Points to note in the letter:

Highlight the fact to them that they have failed to validate the debt to you through any documentation.

That is they have not proven that the debt is yours or that they have any legal entitlement of collecting

on that debt.

Explain to them that you in the interest of saving time and money, you prefer just to pay this debt rather

than hiring an expensive attorney and taking them to court.

Make your offer sound very professional and business like. Close the letter reminding them of the

handsome profit they are about to make on this deal if they accept your offer.

Wait until you receive a signed, written acceptance of your offer from the collection agency.

Once you have a written, signed agreement (a fax is fine), send the collection agency a money order or

cashier's check for the amount you agreed to pay them.

Settle the Debt:

This technique is a lot like the one discussed previously, except that this method deals with collection

amounts that are over $1,000. Since the amount is higher, you will need to do more negotiating with the

collections agency. The goal is to reduce the amount of debt to an amount that you would be

comfortable paying in one lump sum. Just like the other method, you get the collection agency to agree

to remove the listing from your credit report in exchange for a settlement.

Debt Validation:

In this method you will be leveraging the protections of the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act to force

the collection agency to provide documentation as proof that the debt is valid. It's one of the more

aggressive techniques against the collection agency. It involves writing a letter to the collection agency,

but if the collection agency is non-responsive, it requires the threat of filing a lawsuit. To get more

information on this technique, please read the previous article in this report.

Dispute with the Original Creditor:

In this method, you are leveraging the protection of section 623 of the Fair Credit Reporting Act.

According to this section, you as a consumer are allowed to dispute a negative listing on your credit

report directly with the company reporting it. You merely have to request that an investigation of the

account be done. The creditor is required by law to respond within 30 days.

Important: You must have first dispute the negative information on your credit report with the credit

bureaus. Once you have filed the dispute with the bureaus, then you can proceed with directly disputing

with the creditor. This is actually a very effective technique. Especially since the collection agencies

almost never have any documentation as back up.

Dispute with the Credit Bureaus:

This method is the basic credit repair technique of writing letters to the credit bureaus and requesting

an investigation of a collection on your credit report. It has been discussed in detail also in the previous

article.

If you have collections on your credit report, using one or a combination of these excellent strategies is

sure to bear great results in time. Patience and persistence is the key when doing credit repair. If you

have time, you can use the regular method of sending in dispute letters through mail. However, if you

need your scores raised quickly, then Rapid Rescoring is your best option.

Written by Eram Saeed www.perfectficonow.com