www.watercorporation.com.au

A guide to saving water

in establishedgardens.

Edited by John Colwill

local gardening expert

GARDENI

NG

THEWA

TERWISEGUIDE

TO

The WaterwiseGardening

GuideIn the metropolitan areaapproximately 60% of annualwater consumption goes onwatering lawns and gardens.In summer this figure rises to almost 80%.This booklet contains up-to-dateinformation on techniques andpractises that help save waterin your garden even if it hasbeen established for years.If you are starting a new gardenfrom scratch, you will find awealth of information that willlet you plan and install a gardenwhich will cope with ourclimate and meet your needswithout wasting water.

ContentsIntroduction ................................................................................................1

Garden design ............................................................................................2

Before you plant.......................................................................................3

Soil improvement..............................................................................3

Soils for containers ..........................................................................5

What to plant ............................................................................................5

Lawns .......................................................................................................5

Methods of planting ........................................................................6

Other garden plants........................................................................7

Watering zones...............................................................................11

How to water .........................................................................................12

Sprinklers ............................................................................................12

Micro-irrigation................................................................................13

Choice of equipment...................................................................13

Pressure ...............................................................................................14

How much water to apply.......................................................14

Making the most of Watering Zones.................................15

Watering Lawns..............................................................................16

Operation...........................................................................................16

Waterwise lawn management................................................17

Watering shrubs and perennials ...........................................18

Watering fruit trees......................................................................19

Watering pot plants .....................................................................20

Watering hanging baskets .........................................................21

Watering bedding plants ...........................................................21

Watering vegetables.....................................................................21

Irrigation .....................................................................................................22

After you plant .......................................................................................22

Lawn maintenance.........................................................................22

Mulching gardens............................................................................23

Mulching material ...........................................................................24

Applying mulches ...........................................................................24

Changing an established garden ............................................25

How Waterwise is your garden?...........................................27

1

IntroductionIn Perth and the Southwest of Western Australia we

have become used to enjoying a mediterranean climate

where the winters are mild and wet and the summers

long, warm, hot and dry. However, most of our gardens

and garden practices are still based upon northern

European models where the climate is cooler and wetter

and the plants more delicate. As a result we have had to

use a lot of water to maintain the exotic gardens and

the plants that we have become accustomed to growing

since the first European settlers arrived here.

However, because there has been a dramatic decrease

in the rainfall which charges our dams and

groundwater resources, and a steady growth in

population, there is an urgent need to reduce the

amount of water that is used.The greatest potential

for saving water is in the garden.

Saving water does not have to mean ‘browning off ’.

Most gardeners regularly over-water. In these cases

reducing water consumption will have little or no effect

at all, sometimes it may even improve the garden.

2

Garden designThe average garden is a mix of both water consuming

areas such as lawn, flower beds, borders and shrubberies,

and hard or dry surfaces such as paving, sheds and pathways.

When planning a new garden, or remodelling an old one,

consider your needs like:

• Utility spaces such as clothes drying, compost and

storage areas.

• Outdoor living spaces such as courtyards, barbecues

and seating.

• Special needs such as a vegetable garden, swimming

pool, etc.

• How much time you have for garden maintenance.

• How much money you wish to spend on the garden.

The general principles of saving water through garden

design are to:

• Maximise the use of non-planting treatments such as

paving and mulches whilst at the same time being

aware of the risk of creating hot spots due to large

areas of unshaded paving.

• Manage lawn areas correctly so as to minimise their

water requirement and not pollute groundwater

through excess fertilising. Lawn areas form part

of our daily lives for recreation and appearance

purposes.They should be designed to fit into an

overall waterwise garden concept with the total area

kept to a size which is consistent with functional and

aesthetic requirements.

3

• Keep planted areas dense and consolidated. Sparse

scattered plants are more difficult to water efficiently

than those in defined areas.

• Make use of windbreaks, pergolas, screens, lattice,

shadecloth and vines to shelter the house, outdoor

living areas and plants.

• Prepare the soil before planting to ensure that plants

can make the most of the water which is applied.

• Choose plants which have a low water demand.

• Group plants in such a way as to allow for efficient

watering.

• Install a watering system that is both efficient and

flexible.

• Monitor and adjust the amount of water that is

applied on a regular basis.

Before you plantSoil improvement

Adding organic matter to the soil improves both its

moisture and nutrient holding capacity.This means that

less water and fertiliser have to be applied and that

these smaller amounts are then available for a longer

period. As well as saving on water and fertiliser,

there is better plant growth with less stress

in-between waterings.

It is particularly important to improve the top 15-20cm

of soil where a plant’s feeder roots can be found.

Old animal manures, compost and proprietary products

4

are ideal soil improvers. Mix them in equal parts with the

garden soil prior to planting using the following areas as

a guide. Generally the bigger the area prepared,

the better the long term result.

• Shrubs, groundcovers and climbers – 30cm in depth

and up to half a metre across.

• Trees – 40cm deep and 1 metre across

• Bedding plants – 25cm deep for the whole bed.

• Lawns – 15-20cm deep for the whole area.

A common problem in sandy soils, when they dry out,

is the development of non-wettable characteristics.

Water applied to these soils simply pools on the surface

before eventually making its way down through one or

two spots.The bulk of the soil remains dry.

Non-wettable soils are particularly noticeable in

containers but are also a significant problem in lawns

where they can lead to brown dry patches developing.

A regular application of a soil wetting agent in spring is

recommended. Always water the material in immediately

and thoroughly. If the first application does not seem to

work, apply a second. Soils which are particularly prone

to the problem may need a second treatment in summer.

5

Soils for containers (including hanging baskets)

Choose the best quality potting mix you can afford

preferably one approved by the Australian Standards

Association.

The water and nutrient hold capacity of potting mixes

can be further enhanced by the use of water absorbent

polymers. Some potting mixes may already contain them.

Most plants are now grown in soil-less mixes which

quickly becomes non-wettable. One easy way to treat

container grown plants is to dip the whole pot into a

larger container of prepared strength wetting agent.

What to plantLawns

• Over a period of three Perth summers, turf research

trials by the University of Western Australia indicated

that a healthy lawn can be maintained by selecting

from a range of warm season lawn grasses suited to

our hot summer climate.

• Warm season grasses required significantly less water

than cool season grasses.

• The turf trials also indicated that warm season grasses

have an excellent capacity to recover after periods of

low water supply, whereas cool season turf species did

not recover.The research substantiated the Water

Corporation’s advice that a standard drink of 10mm

applied three times a week provides the most optimal

growing conditions in Perth for a correctly maintained

warm season lawn.

6

• During the peak summer period, there was some

deterioration in the colour of kikuyu but only slight

decreases in other warm season grasses. However,

they all recovered in autumn. During the same period,

the cool season grasses went brown and did not

recover. The table below details the research findings.

Variety Water Heat Drought Use Tolerance Tolerance

Warm SeasonCouch Types Low Excellent HighBuffalo Low Excellent HighSaltene Low Excellent HighKikuyu Low Excellent High

Cool SeasonRyegrass High Poor FairTall Fescue High Fair Medium

Methods of planting

There are three ways to establish a new lawn: by roll-on,

by runners, or by seed.Warm season grasses are grown

from roll on or runners.

Rolls of instant turf are the most water-efficient means

of lawn establishment. Runners require large quantities of

water to establish and should be planted only in spring.

Instant turf requires daily watering for the first four

weeks until a good root system is established and then

the lawn can cope with the stress of hot weather.

7

Most seed grasses are cool season varieties that are

not drought tolerant and perform badly in Perth’s hot,

dry summers.

Other garden plants

An average suburban garden may contain a range of

plants which have their origins in many different parts

of the world.

Some might come from tropical rainforests where light

is limited, rain heavy and frequent and the atmosphere

protected and humid. Such plants have not had to

develop any mechanisms to make them water-efficient

or protect them from drying winds.

Other plants may come from northern temperate

regions where it is cooler and slightly less humid and

they don’t have to cope with high temperatures.

Yet others might have originated in harsh desert

conditions where their very survival depends on

harvesting every single drop of water and storing it

for later use.

A large number of our garden plants have their origins in

Australia.Those of local origin are perfectly adapted to

our climate having evolved in it over millions of years.

To allow for efficient watering, this diverse range

of ornamental garden plants has to be divided into

three groups according to their need for water.

8

These groups are:-

• One Drop Plants, the most efficient users of water,

which only need occasional watering over summer.

Perhaps once every two weeks or longer.

• Two Drop Plants, less efficient but still reasonably

tough which need to be watered every 3 to 7 days

in summer.

• Three Drop Plants, which use a lot of water and need

to be watered every 1 to 2 days.

Some examples of the ‘Drop’ rating of plants are

given on the pages to follow. A full database of

commonly grown ornamental plants in WA can

be found on the Water Corporation website at

www.watercorporation.com.au/savewater. For additional

information and guidance on waterwise plant selection

visit a Waterwise Garden Centre.To find one near you

call the Waterwise Helpline on 1300 369 645.

9

Examples of One Drop Plants

CLIMBERSBougainvilleaConvolvulusHardenbergia comptonianaKennediaMuehlenbackia complexaRosa banksiaSollyaStigmaphyllon ciliatum Tecomaria capensis

GROUNDCOVERSAptenia cordifoliaBanksia GrevilleaHemiandra pungensMyoporum parvifoliumOsteospermumPhyla nodifloraSedum Stachys

PERENNIALSAgaveAnigozanthosBeaucarnea recurvataConostylis candicansCrassula Echium fastuosumGauraGazaniaKalanchoe LavandulaVincaYucca

SHRUBSAcaciaAdenanthosArtemisiaCeanothusChamelauciumCistusCoprosmaCordyline australisEuphorbia pulcherrimaLagerstroemiaLantanaMelaleucaPimeleaPlumbago PolygalaRaphiolepisRosemarinus

10

Examples of Two Drop Plants

CLIMBERSAntigonon leptopusHederaLoniceraPandorea Pelargonium peltatumRosa Climbing typesSolanum VitisWisteria

GROUNDCOVERSAjuga reptans AlternantheraGrevillea – CultivarsJuniperus Rosa – Groundcover typesScaevola aemula ThymusVerbena

PERENNIALSAgapanthusAnigozanthos Cerastium tomentosumDampieraDianthus DietesHemerocallisPelargonium Phormium

SHRUBSAbeliaAzaleaBauhiniaBuddleiaBuxus Caesalpinia Callistemon Camellia japonicaCamellia sasanquaChamaecyparisColeonemaEuryops pectinatusGardeniaHebeIlexProstanthera

11

Examples of Three Drop Plants

CLIMBERSClerodendronJasminumPassifloraQuisqualis indicaStephanotis floribundaThunbergia grandiflora

GROUNDCOVERSArenaria montanaSaginaSoleirolia soleirolii

PERENNIALSBegoniaChlorophyton Clivia miniataFernsImpatiens

SHRUBSAcalyphaAcerBoroniaClerodendron FuchsiaHydrangea

Watering Zones

A typical garden bed may contain a mix of two or three

different Drop-rated plants.They may look nice together

but such a diverse mix can lead to a lot of water

wastage. Knowing the water needs of each plant allows

you to group the plants together, like with like. A water

efficient garden will be planted into areas, or Watering

Zones, each of which contains only plants with the same

Drop Rating. Only when the plants are grouped in this

way can they be watered efficiently.

12

How to waterNo matter whether you are watering your garden from

the mains water scheme or by a private bore it is

important to apply the water as efficiently as possible

through a well designed and maintained irrigation system.

A properly designed automatic system will use less water

than a manually operated system.

By choosing a Waterwise Garden Irrigator you can be

sure that you are getting the best waterwise irrigation

advice available.Waterwise Garden Irrigators are

endorsed by both the Water Corporation and the

Irrigation Association of Australia.They can help you

design and install your irrigation system to water efficient

standards.To find your nearest Waterwise Garden

Irrigator visit www.watercorporation.com.au or call the

Waterwise Helpline on 1300 369 645.

Sprinklers

Overhead sprinklers should only be used on broad areas

which are densely planted.

Choose sprinklers that produce coarse sprays of large

droplets that are less prone to wind drift.

Use good quality sprinklers which have matched

precipitation rates. i.e. they all put out the same amount.

Cheap sprinklers often vary enormously in their output.

Uneven distribution will cause some areas to be

overwatered while others are underwatered.

13

Micro-irrigation

Micro-irrigation is suitable for most areas of the garden,

especially general garden beds, shrubberies, pot plants and

hanging baskets.These systems are flexible, low cost, easy

to install and allow for precise delivery and placement of

water to the root zones of individual plants.Various types

of emitters are available including a full range of micro-

sprays, mini sprinklers and fixed and variable drippers.

All micro systems should begin with a pressure or flow

control device. If this is not installed the emitters will not

work efficiently and the joints may burst under excess

pressure.These vital components are often not on display

at irrigation/hardware stores. Be sure to ask for one.

Micro-irrigation emitters are very fine and clog easily,

so lines to micro sprays and drippers should incorporate

an in-line filter.

For consistent performance it is best to use recognised

brand name products.

Choice of equipment

• Use a good quality controller which has the ability to

run separate programmes for different garden areas

or Watering Zones.

• The controller should be placed under cover in an

easily accessible site.

• Gutter mounted rain sensors can be used to disable

watering after summer rain.

• Solenoid valves should be above ground, grouped

together where possible and covered by a valve box.

14

Pressure

Irrigation components are designed to operate within a

set pressure range.Too much pressure causes misting

and high evaporative loss.Too little pressure causes

uneven application. If in doubt consult an irrigation

specialist who can conduct pressure and flow testing.

How much water to apply

The feeder roots of plants grow in the top 15 to 20cm

of soil.That’s why soil improvement is confined to that

depth and it also determines how much water needs to

be applied.

In improved sandy soils of the metropolitan area a depth

of 10mm of water, applied to the surface, is sufficient to

wet down to 15 to 20cm.The remainder of the volume

is taken up by soil particles.This 10mm application is

referred to as the Standard Drink.

Applying more than 10mm results in water seeping

down past the feeder root zone and being wasted.

Applying less than 10mm will prevent full development

of the feeder root system.The Standard Drink does vary

according to location and soil type. Further information

on this is available from the Water Corporation website

at www.watercorporation.com.au/savewater.

Every irrigation system has a different output so the only

way to determine how long to leave the system on for is

to measure how long it takes to deliver 10mm.This can

be done precisely using Waterwise Catchcups or

15

reasonably accurately using containers such as ice

cream cartons.

Making the most of Watering Zones

By grouping plants together on the basis of similar water

needs into areas called Watering Zones, you can ensure

that each plant in the zone gets as much water as it

needs and that no plant is overwatered.The result is

good healthy growth using less water.

Each zone must be capable of being watered

independently from other zones with different values.

This means separate lines controlled either manually by

separate taps or automatically by separate stations

operated from a controller.

Each plant whether in a 1, 2 or 3 Drop Zone gets the

same amount of water each time the system is turned

on (a Standard Drink) but what varies is the interval

between waterings.

The following guide to watering in the heat of summer

can be used as a starting point.Try extending the

duration between waterings as far as possible.

One Drop Zone A Standard Drink every 7 to 14

days or longer

Two Drop Zone A Standard Drink every 3 to 7 days

Three Drop Zone A Standard Drink every 1 to 2 days

Remember.Whenever any plant is watered is should be

given the Standard Drink, whether it be a bedding plant,

fruit tree or lawn.

16

Watering lawns

Warm season grasses have been proven to be both

water efficient and drought tolerant.They fit into the

‘Two Drop Zone’ of the garden.The unique aspect of

watering turf is the need to ensure an even application

over the whole area.To achieve this sprinklers should be

placed so that the spray from one sprinkler touches the

next sprinkler and rows of sprinklers should be

staggered. Use good quality part circle sprinklers on the

edges to prevent water being thrown onto hard surfaces

such as driveways or paving.

Never mix different types of emitters on the same line.

Solenoid valves should be covered by a valve box, not

buried beneath the soil.

Water early in the morning (5am to 8am). Never water

during the heat of the day.

Check your system regularly and replace worn nozzles

or broken seals as necessary.

Operation

Set your controller to deliver the 10mm Standard Drink

per application then follow the guidelines below changing

your lawn watering schedule as indicated.

The following watering frequencies are for ideal

conditions when there is sufficient water available.

When water is short the warm season grasses will easily

cope with watering only twice a week. And watering

with a hand-held hose can supplement watering by

17

sprinklers. Even at this frequency there is no advantage

in delivering more than the ‘Standard Drink’.

Month Frequency

January Every second day

February Every second day

March Every third day

April Every fifth day

May No watering

June No watering

July No watering

August Once a fortnight (if needed)

September Once a week (if needed)

October Every fourth day

November Every third day

December Every second day

Waterwise lawn management

Lawns can build up a spongy layer of brown material

between the soil and the green leaf.This is known as

thatch, which makes penetration of water difficult and

can lead to fungal diseases.

Thatch should be removed by a hard mowing in spring

or by vertimowing. Most hire shops have vertimowing

machines or advice can be obtained from the Lawn

Mowing Contractors Association.

Non-wettable soils should be treated with a soil wetting

agent in spring.This eliminates dry patches by allowing

water to penetrate.

18

Water early in the morning because in the heat of the

day up to 50% of water can be lost to evaporation and

wind drift. In addition, water applied in the evening may

lead to fungal problems.

Moss growing in a lawn may indicate excess water

application, poor drainage or insufficient sunlight.

A standard drink of 10mm is recommended, any more

is wasted.

Watering shrubs and perennials

Shrubs and perennials should be planted in Watering

Zones.

Micro-irrigation is ideal for these plants. If you have

improved soil that is well mulched even the thirstiest

of plants (Three Drop) can be maintained on a watering

schedule of every second day in the heat of summer.

This can be extended to every third or fourth day as

the weather cools down.

Very tough, water efficient plants may only need a drink

every month or so during their first summer after which

the micro-irrigation system can be disconnected and

re-cycled elsewhere in the garden.

Only the soil around the plant root zone needs to be

watered, not the area between plants.This minimises

nitrogen draw-down problems, weed germination and

also the number of slaters.

Adjustable emitters can be used to deliver variable

quantities of water to precisely the right locations.

19

Emitters should be exposed to allow for inspection.

Even when the water is being delivered precisely to the

plants at ground level, it is still desirable to water early in

the morning to minimise evaporation losses.

Your irrigation supplier can give you more details on

designing a micro-irrigation system for shrubs and other

parts of your garden.

Watering fruit trees

If the soil has been improved and a good mulch is

present, all fruit trees in the home garden, even tropical

species like mangoes, avocadoes and custard apples can

be kept growing healthily and productively by watering

only on alternate days during the heat of summer.

Where applicable, once the crop has been harvested,

the water may be cut back even further.

Flat throw, low pressure micro-irrigation sprinklers are

the most efficient means of watering fruit trees.They can

be set close to the ground and easily adjusted to wet

the entire drip zone area without being affected by wind.

A simple technique to ensure the most efficient use

of water is to shape the mulch like a saucer with the

highest par t immediately below or just outside the

drip line. Place the sprinkler in the middle and adjust

the height until it just throws out to the rim of the

saucer. The water is then caught and directed down

to the roots.

20

Drippers are generally not satisfactory for fruit trees in

sandy soils.They only wet a limited surface area and lead

to wastage as most of the water is lost to the deeper

soil. Drippers are slightly better in heavier soil where

they have a flatter wetting pattern but even then they

are not as efficient as micro-sprinklers.

Overhead watering of fruit trees is extremely wasteful

due to high evaporation losses. It is not recommended

in the home garden.

Watering pot plants

Micro-irrigation systems can be installed to deliver water

to individual pots around the verandah or patio.

Adjustable drippers allow for different pot and

plant sizes.

Terracotta is a porous material which allows moisture to

escape through the sides comparatively quickly. Before

planting up you should water proof the material by

either using a liquid sealant painted on to the inside of

the pot or lining the inside of the pot with polythene.

Make sure that a hole is cut in the polythene to coincide

with the drainage hole of the pot.

Self watering pots come in many styles.These pots are

very water-efficient as long as they are maintained

correctly.

Hydroponic systems are also water-efficient.Though they

may use a large liquid mass, the fluid is retained and

recycled in the hydroponic process with very little waste.

21

Slow release fertiliser release their nutrients gradually

over the growing season and are the ideal way to feed

pot plants.

Watering hanging baskets

Micro-irrigation systems can be adapted to deliver water

to individual hanging baskets. Adjustable multi outlet

emitters ensure a large area of the surface is moistened.

Protect hanging baskets from the drying winds.

Porous basket lines such as coconut fibre or wool should

be lined internally with polythene to reduce excess

moisture loss. Make sure that a hole is cut in the

polythene to allow for drainage.

Slow release fertilisers release their nutrients gradually

over the growing season and are the best way to feed

hanging baskets.

Watering bedding plants

Plan your flower beds to be mass displays. Do not place

a few plants here or there in odd spots all over the

garden but rather group your flowers together in a

suitable area which can be watered independently.

Many bedding plants have a high water demand and

may need hand watering on occasions.

Watering vegetables

These are generally high water demand plants which

need a sunny position. Because of their short life cycle

and varying size they are best watered with overhead

sprinklers.

22

Slowing down hot dry winds is very important. Creating

a windbreak on the exposed side will save a lot of water

and prevent damage to delicate plants.

IrrigationThere is more to saving water in the garden than

installing an efficient system to water a well designed and

carefully planted garden. Because the seasons change,

so too does the water demand of the plants. It is

necessary to adjust the watering programmes each

month to reflect these changes.

That’s why it’s important to make sure the controller is

easily accessible and that the instruction book is always

kept nearby. If you don’t have an instruction book you

can contact your local member of the Irrigation

Association for assistance.

After you plantLawn maintenance

Fertiliser use is closely related to water use. Over watering

or fertilising will result in the movement of nutrients past

the root zone, causing pollution of groundwater.

Never exceed the manufacturer’s recommendations,

apply frequent light applications of fertiliser to keep the

lawn healthy and improve its ability to survive on limited

water. Slow release lawn fertilisers are excellent.

They release nutrients over time, feeding the lawn each

time it is watered. Organic based fertilisers are beneficial

23

to the soil. Always water immediately after the

application of fertiliser.

Keep mower blades sharp. Dull blades damage the lawn

and increase moisture loss. Mowers should be set so that

only one third of the leaf is removed at one time.

This should leave a grass blade length of 10-15 mm.

This amount of leaf shades the root zone and reduces

evaporation.To reduce moisture loss, avoid mowing

during the heat of the day.

There is no benefit in top dressing lawns, this should only

be done to even out bumps and hollows.

Mulching gardens

Mulching can reduce evaporation loss from the soil

surface by as much as 70%. A mulch should be spread

over the entire planted area to a minimum thickness of

50mm. In addition to saving water mulching is beneficial

in many other ways.

Organic mulches are preferred because they:

• Break down over time and feed the plants.

• Improve the soil organic matter content as they

break down.

• Reduce evaporation loss from the surface.

• Encourage earthworms and soil microbial activity.

• Restrict weed growth and any weeds which do

germinate are easy to remove.

• Prevent wind and water erosion.

24

• Protect the roots from daily temperature fluctuations.

• Improve the appearance of the garden area.

Mulching material

The ideal mulching material is one which consists of

large, but irregularly shaped particles which do not hold

any water, allowing it all to run through to the soil below.

Raw materials like woodchips, chipped tree waste or

similar are the best mulching materials. Crushed brick,

stone or gravel may also be considered.

Soft mulches like lucerne hay, pea straw, seaweed and

compost are most beneficial in areas such as the vegie

patch or underneath fruit trees.

Lawn clippings and sheep manure do not make good

mulch, they are best composted.

Old newspapers can be used under a mulch for weed

control. However, thick overlapping layers of newspapers

may also prevent water penetration.

Applying mulches

• For general garden use mulches should be spread at

50-75mm thick.

• Always leave a breathing space of 50mm around

stems and trunks of plants.

• Organic mulches enriched with animal manures are

enormously beneficial when applied thickly (to 30cm)

around the drip zone of fruit trees.They should be

topped up as necessary during spring, summer and

25

autumn to maintain a minimum thickness (after

settling) of 15cm.

• Vegetable gardens should be mulched with ‘softer’

mulches such as compost, pea, hay or lucerne straw

or seaweed.

• In garden areas mulches should be topped up as

necessary; perhaps twice a year in both autumn

and spring.

• Mulches should never be raked up, turned over, dug in

or disturbed in any way.To do so will damage the fine

feeder roots which plants develop in the zone

between the mulch and the soil.

Changing an established garden

If your garden has grown over the years with plants

scattered all over the place, you can change it around.

Most high water use plants have shallow root systems

and so can be easily transplanted in winter or spring into

their respective groups in a new site.

Hardy, low water and drought tolerant species cannot

normally be moved because of their very deep root

systems.

The type, area and location of lawn in the garden can be

reconsidered. Excess areas of grass can be converted to

lower water use areas by:

26

• Using a herbicide containing the active ingredient

glyphosate. Apply the chemical according to

instructions using a garden hose as a marker guide

to ensure you get a complete coverage the first time.

Feed and water the lawn to get it growing vigorously

before applying the chemical. A second application

may be necessary for couch and kikuyu lawns because

of their strong root systems.

After 3 to 6 weeks all the grass will be dead.

Dead material can be left in place as a mulch while the

new plants are established.

Replacing a lawn area by planting it with a range of low

native groundcovers will ensure an ever changing scene

that is attractive to birds and gardeners alike with far less

maintenance than a lawn.Your local member of the

Nursery and Garden Industry Association can help you

with plant selection.

27

How Waterwise is your garden?Take this simple test to find out.

Do you water twice a week?

Do you regularly use a soil wetting agent?

Do you improve the soil before you plant?

Do you water early in the morning?

Do you know how much water your plants need?

Do you know how much water you are putting on?

Do you change your watering schedule according to

the time of year?

Do you regularly check your irrigation system?

Do you mulch your garden beds?

Do you really need all the lawn you have?

www.watercorporation.com.au

ISBN: 174 043 111 1

Remember, the Water Corporation has lots

of ways you can save water both in the

house and garden.

Simply call the Waterwise Helpline on 13 10 39

or visit www.watercorporation.com.au