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arbanassi surrounding areas

The proliferation of students and younger tourists makes for a healthy bar and club scene in Veliko Tarnovo. Several of the bars are owned by British or Irish ex-pats, while the nightclubs seem to be in the hands of a couple of local businesses.Generally speaking, this is a quiet town and there is not much trouble or danger, even late at night. Drugs are sold in some of the bars and there may be occasional police raids. There are no strip clubs here and no overt advertising of escort ser-vices. Nightclubs charge between 3 and 5 leva entry, or it may be free for women on certain nights. Drink prices are reasonable, no higher than in most bars.

Live MusicMaximus B-1, ul. Nezavisimost 9, tel. (+359) 62 601 577, www.pianobar-maximus.com. Live music on piano accompanied by female singer from 22:00. Guest acts, karaoke nights, student and party nights. Olde worlde interior with bare stone walls and wooden furniture. QOpen 22:00 - 02:00. Karaoke night is free entry, usual entry fee 3 leva.

Melon A-1, ul. Nezavisimost 21, tel. (+359) 62 603 439, www.myspace.com/ melonclub. Live music, different styles every night, including classic rock, rhythm and blues, jazz, latino and most certainly no Bulgarian pop folk. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00.

NightclubsBally B-1, ul. Hristo Botev 2, tel. (+359) 885 565 666, www.danceclubbally.com. Two rooms offering different music styles: one for music from the Balkans, the other playing different music every night. Mondays and Tuesdays are student nights. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun.

Jack B-1, bul. Vassil Levski 4, inside the theatre, tel. (+359) 887 966 600, www.jack-club.com. Big outdoor terrace makes this the town’s top summer venue for enjoying the long hot nights. Mixed menu of Student nights, Latino nights, Ladies’ nights, Pop folk nights. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Summer 20:00-04:00; winter works as a cafe from 09:00-01:00. 3 leva entry fee. Cocktails 3-5 leva.

Midnight B-1, ul. Rafail Mihailov 2, tel. (+359) 884 855 555, www.midnight.bg. Ultra sleek nightclub that can hold up to 350 people and plays primarily Bulgarian pop folk music. Although despised by many educated Bulgarians, pop folk is often popular with foreigners for the party atmosphere, oriental rhythms and semi-naked female performers. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. 3 leva entry.

Pubs & BarsCity Pub B-1, ul. Hristo Botev 15, tel. (+359) 888 321 645. Loud and busy pub in the town centre close to the Tourist Info Centre. Done out like an American bar, though the website says its an Irish pub. Either way, it is owned and run by Bulgarians. Large screens show music TV or sports depending on the time of day. The menu offers salads and quick main courses such as chicken fillets fried in cornflakes. Outdoor dining on the pavement. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PJNBW

Dada B-2, ul. Velcho Dzhamdzhiyata 12, tel. (+359) 885 840 571. Popular student bar with cheap drinks, loud music and a mixture of nationalities. Situated in the old town, the bar also has a garden out the back with a great view over the river and onto the hills beyond. Inside, it’s a big basement with huge arches. Happy hour from 17:30-19:30 on Bulgarian brands. Fills up after midnight and the party goes on all night. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00. PJ

Lino A-1, ul. Nezavisimost 3, tel. (+ 359) 888 535 395. The bizarrely named Lino Bar occupies a prime spot on the main road overlooking the river. The interior is nothing to get excited about, but it has a nice terrace, and offers fairly cheap drinks and snacks. Aimed at a younger crowd, the music can get loud. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PJB

Love & Lounge B-2, ul. Stefan Stambolov 29, tel. (+ 359) 888 925 030. Lovely chillout bar with designer interior, ever so slightly off the beaten track in the old town. Lounge music during the week, electronic music at weekends. Friday evenings are ‘language evenings’ for speaking English and French. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:00 - 12:00. PJ

McNamara’s Irish Pub A-1, ul. Nezavisimost 25, tel. (+359) 878 812 358. Relatively small Irish pub down in a basement on the main street. Run by an Irish-man from Galway, the pub serves Guiness, has two large screens for Sky Sports, a pool table and darts. There is one large table if you are seeking company, or separate wooden tables if you are already in a group. The central expat haunt of Veliko Tarnovo with friendly staff, karaoke and live music. Typical pub grub, including chips with curry sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PJW

Melodie A-2, pl. Slaveikov 1, tel. (+359) 879 477 614. Party time at this bar with club and house music or retro and latino depending on the evening; serves alcohol, hot drinks and a wide selection of cocktails. Daytime is more laid back. QOpen 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. PJW

Royal B-1, bul. Vassil Levski 4, tel. (+359) 62 601 100. Great place to enjoy an outdoor drink or snack in the summer months as this bar occupies the vast terraced gardens overlooking the main street and the Mother Bulgaria monument. Trees and umbrellas provide ample shade even on the hottest days. Cocktails are on offer, as are snacks, salads and grilled meats. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PJB

Tequila Bar B-2, ul. Stefan Stambolov 30. Popular bar, particularly for students, with a terrace overlooking the main road through the old town. Serves tequila cocktails as well as coffee, breakfast, snacks and any other kind of alcohol. Under new management, the bar has started regular Saturday afternoon barbeques.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJB

The historic architectural reserve of Arbanassi, 4 km uphill from Veliko Tarnovo, is the perfect weekend getaway for all who want to enjoy some downtime in a beautiful setting, serviced by good hotels and restaurants, with plenty of sightseeing opportunities for those who cannot sit still. In recent years it has become particularly popular with well to do Bulgarians and this is reflected in the overall high standard of services and relatively high prices.There is some discrepancy about the origins of the town, but it is clear that exiled Albanian Christians settled here in the 15th century and it gradually developed into a wealthy trading town and popular summer residence for the rich until 1798 when the kurdjalii (bandits) started to loot and pillage the town, sending it into decline. Today, the beautifully restored churches and museum houses give us an insight into the former wealth and deep spiritual commitment of the people of Arbanassi.

Five churches, two monasteries and over 100 houses dating back to the 17th and 18th century have been preserved in Arbanassi and bear witness to the wealth and deeply held Christian faith of the town’s inhabitants of that time.

Pizza is the order of the day in Veliko Tarnovo and virtually every restaurant has a long menu featuring every possible combination of ingredients. Usually very tasty, they are made with the local ‘kashkaval’ cheese rather than moz-zarella. Pizzerias also offer traditional Bulgarian salads and entrees, pasta, barbequed meats and much more besides. Handily, most menus are photo menus, which makes choosing so much easier when you can see what you are going to get. The weight in grammes is also given so that you get an idea of how large the dish you are ordering is. Smoking is now completely banned in restaurants, cafes and bars.

BulgarianBulgarian cuisine is tasty and surprisingly healthy. A meal will usually start with a salad, the most traditional one being the ‘Shopska’. The main course will usually be some kind of grilled meat, though many of the restaurants also offer casserole-type dishes. The ‘sach’ is definitely worth trying - a scorching clay dish brought direct to your table with the meat and veg still sizzling. Make sure to ask whether your main course comes with a side serving of vegetables and potatoes, known as ‘garnitura’, otherwise you may end up without.

Club na Architecta B-2, ul. Velcho Dzhamdzhiyata 14, tel. (+359) 62 621 451. Down a quiet alleyway in the old town, hewn into the rock face, this tavern serving traditional Bulgarian cuisine has a garden with a lovely view of the river and the town below. This is virtually the first restaurant one comes across when walking up to the town from Tsarevets fortress. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00 summer months. (3-12 leva). J6B

Malkiya Inter B-3, ul. Ivan Vazov 22, tel. (+359) 883 353 973. Though most locals described this place as a bar, and it describes itself as a snack bar, Malkiya Inter does in fact have a fairly substantial menu. Right opposite the museum complex, this place is good for either a drink or something quick to eat on the large shady terrace with its ceiling fans. Inside, the decor is a quirky mix of antique objects that will keep you fascinated throughout your visit. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PJA6BSW

Panorama Barbecue Restaurant A-2, ul.Stefan Stambolov 53A Hotel Bolyarski, tel. (+359) 62 613 200, www.bolyarski.com. Enjoy the splendid views from the rooftop (15th floor) barbecue restaurant, which is particularly pleasant on a summer’s evening once the sun has gone down. Meat and veg-etables prepared on a charcoal grill. Alternatively you can enjoy a coffee or drink throughout the day on the quiet lobby terrace away from the busy street out front, or try the gourmet restaurant on the lower floors. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. (8-30 leva). PJTAULBW

Shtastlivetsa 2 ul.Tsanko Tserkovski 14, tel. (+359) 62 606 053, www.shtastliveca.com. Up-market Bulgarian restaurant with an interior designed to authentically evoke the era of the late 19th century. This restaurant enjoys the same good reputation as its sister restaurant in the old town, the menu extensively covering the best of Bulgarian cuisine, including charcoal grill specialties and a large variation of the traditional ‘sach’ (sizzling clay dish). QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (6-30 leva). PTAB

Vodenitsata B-1, ul. Alexander Penchev 2, Interhotel Veliko Turnovo, tel. (+359) 62 601 000, www.interhotelvt.bg. Great choice for anyone with a family as this large outdoor restaurant is set in the well-tended gardens of the 5 star Interhotel in the quiet leafy environs of the Yantra river. The whole restaurant has a traditional theme to it and serves spit-roasted meats and other national dishes.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (6-30 leva). PTAB

InternationalHadji Nikoli Restaurant A-2, ul.Rakovski 19, tel. (+359) 62 651 291, www.hanhadjinikoli.com. The restaurant in this beautifully restored building in the old part of the town is one of the very few places where you can experience fine dining in Veliko Tarnovo at very reasonable prices. The main restaurant is on the ground floor with an exclusive gourmet section (separate menu) at the back for about 20 people: ideal for those very special or more private dinners! The menu offers a cross-section of Bulgarian and European cuisine, from Beef Stroganoff to Pork Porchetta and Thracian Chicken. There are separate non-smoking rooms on the first floor. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (8 - 27 leva) main restaurant (16 - 30 leva) gourmet restaurant. PTA6IBSW

Humphry Bogart B-1, ul. Hristo Botev 3, tel. (+359) 899 871 688, www.facebook.com/humphry.bogart.16. Right in the centre of town next to the tourist info centre, Bogart’s does an intriguing mix of English, Indian, Mexican and Bulgarian food as well as pizza. Service comes with a smile and English is spoken. A magnet for the local British expat community, there is usually a lively atmosphere. Home made pies, fish and chips, full English breakfast and baked potatoes are just a few of the menu items. Large covered terrace out front. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (3.50 - 10 leva). PJ6BSW

Ethno Staro Turnovo A-1, ul. Nezavisimost 5, tel. (+359) 884 483 585, www.ethno.bg. On the main road from the new to old town with a terrace out the back overlooking the river and the Assens’ monument, inside the decor is homely. Try the middle eastern starter tray of hummous, baba ganoush, olive paste and taramasalata with freshly baked Arabic bread, followed by one of the fish dishes or tandoori chicken. Arm yourself with some patience as food may not come in the right order. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJAVGBXSW

PizzaEgo Pizza & Grill A-1, ul. Nezavisimost 17, tel. (+359) 62 601 804. Trendy place that serves Bulgarian and Mediterranean cuisine, not just pizza. Modern interior and terrace that looks out over the river. Gets quite busy on an evening so reservation may be necessary. There is another branch of the same restaurant further down the road in the direction of the new town. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (4.50-14.70 leva). PJB

La Scalla B-1, ul. Hristo Botev 14, tel. (+359) 62 635 811, www.lascalla.com. Veliko Tarnovo’s oldest pizzeria (over 20 years old!) offers a wide menu of pizza, pasta, Bulgarian cuisine and fish. Pizzas come in three sizes, the largest at a whopping 800 grammes to be shared between friends. QOpen 10:00 - 00:30. (5-9.30 leva). PJVBS

Pizza Bianco Bar & Grill B-1, pl. Maika Bulgaria, tel. (+359) 882 552 661, www.bianco-pizza.com. Open 24 hours a day, this pizzeria and grill enjoys a prime spot in the city centre opposite the Maika Bulgaria (Mother Bulgaria) monument and tourist info centre. Situated in the Military Club, it has a large covered terrace and offers a vast photo menu. A full English breakfast is available till 11:00. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Take away service 11:00 - 23:30 (3.49-9.99 leva). PJBSW

Tempo B-1, ul. Ivailo 4, tel. (+359) 62 606 920. Not just pizzas but also pasta, salads, meat and vegetarian dishes. A vast menu to choose from with some imaginative dishes, particularly those cooked in earthenware pots. Located in the city centre right opposite the tourist info centre, this is a large restaurant with smoking and non smoking sections and large patio windows that can be pushed right back so that diners are virtually on the pavement.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (4-9 leva). PJ

Most of the shops are to be found on the main roads: bul. Bulgaria, Vasil Levski, Nezavisimost and Stefan Stambolov. There are plenty of pharma-cies, no name clothing boutiques and shoe shops at very reasonable prices. If you find something you like it is advisable to buy it there and then as it will inevitably be the only one in stock. Ul. Rakovski, the old cobbled street running parallel to ul. Stefan Stambolov is a better bet if you are looking for traditional crafts and souvenirs. There is currently one working shopping mall, Central Mall, which is some way from the city centre (not walking distance) which features international fashion brands such as Kenvelo and some rather good local fashion brands for both men and women. Its air conditioned environment is a godsend in the sweltering summer months. Up on the Sofia-Varna highway (ul. Magistralna) is where the mega hypermarkets are: Praktiker DIY store and Technopolis for electrical goods.

Shopping Mall Central Mall ul. Oborishte 18, tel. (+359) 62 674040, office@mallvt.eu, www.mallvt.eu, www.facebook.com/mallvt. Large shopping and entertainment centre. A short taxi ride from the city centre. A great place to spend a few hours browsing

more than 60 local and international brands, enjoying the food court, the cafés and the restaurant or unwinding in the town’s only cinema and bowling. Free parking lots. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00; Supermarket - 8:00 - 21:45; Places for entertainment - 8:00 - 24:00. PAK

Real Estate

Century Homes B-2, ul. Velcho Djamdjiata 16, tel (+359) 62652121, (+359) 894 678684, info@ch-eu.com, www.ch-eu.com. With 8 years of experi-ence offering various types of property in Bulgaria, including residential, commercial and office, Century Homes provides its customers with full assistance and a wide variety of services.QOpen 09:00 – 19:00, Sat 10:00-16:30, Closed Sun.

Stara Planina Properties A-2, pl. Velchova Zavera, tel. (+359) 62 601 245, info@stara-planina.com, www.stara-planina.com. Located in the centre of town opposite the Hotel Yantra, this is a long established real estate and letting agency (including holiday lets). QOpen 08.30 - 17.30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Yantra Homes A-2, ul. Slaveikov 7, tel. (+359) 62 539 980, info@yantrahomes,com, www.yantrahomes.com. Residential, commercial and industrial property for sale or rent. Centrally-located British-Bulgarian partnership. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

CampsitesIn recent years a couple of campsites have sprung up in the vicinity of Veliko Tarnovo, which is a much welcome addition for those who love the great out-doors and want to enjoy this lovely region.

Camping Veliko Tarnovo ul. Vassil Levski 70, Dragizhevo village, tel. (+359) 619 42 777/+ (359) 886 877 244, office@campingvelikotarnovo.com, www.campingvelikotarnovo.com. Brand new, purpose-built campsite. Regular events are organised here for the local expat community, such as monthly car boot sales and evenings featuring different cuisines. Located in the tranquil and relaxing valley of Televets, 12 Km east of Veliko Tarnovo; take the E772 (A4) direction Varna.Turn right on to Road 53 to Elena, turning right into Dragizhevo village. At the top of the village turn left, you will find the campsite 300m beyond the village. 45 camping pitches. Q Open from 1st March to 31st October. 18 - 30 leva per night. T6B�KCW

SightsBacho Kiro Cave (Peshtera Bacho Kiro) Dryanovo. If you enjoy caves and the spectacular creations you can find within, this one certainly won’t disappoint. From Dryanovo Monastery the entrance to Bacho Kiro cave is no more than a gentle 20 minute climb. Visitors can choose between the short and long tour, whereby the shorter route is your better bet if you just want to get an idea of the cave as you can view this part of the cave on your own, without a guide. Be sure to wear good walking shoes as it can be quite slippery inside and it may be worth carrying your own torch. Also remember that the temperatures inside the caves are usually considerably cooler especially during the summer months. Bacho Kiro cave was first opened to visitors in 1938 but finds indicate that the caves were inhabited as far back as the Middle Paleolithic age (around 70,000 years ago). Q Open 9:00 - 18:00 April - October, 10:00 - 16:00 November - March.Short route (approx. 25 mins) 2 leva (adults) 1 lev (children) , long route (approx. 1 hour) 4 leva (adults) 2 leva (children).

Dryanovski Monastery (Dryanovski Manastir) Dryanovo, tel. (+359) 6767 52 63. Situated 5km southwest of the town of Dryanovo, hidden among the high rocks of the Dryanovska river gorge lies the picturesque Dryanovo Monastery. Established as early as the 12th century, the monastery in its current form dates back to 1845 when the church as well as the two storey living quarters were built. Many well loved freedom fighters found their last refuge here during the dramatic events in April 1876 and it is probably this historic significance and the breathtaking scenery that make this well worth a visit. The Bacho Kiro cave is just a short walk from here. There are also several eco-trails you can follow from here, for example to Bozhentsi. For young ones there is a rope park just behind the monastery and there are also a couple of cafes and restaurants in the area. Simple accommoda-tion is available at the monastery in rooms with 2 or 3 beds. Q Every day 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

Nicopolis ad Istrum Nikiup. Ruins of a Roman town situated approximately 20km from Veliko Tarnovo on the road to Russe and best visited in Spring, Summer or Autumn. Built by emperor Trajan at the beginning of the 2nd century B.C. after his victory over the Dacians, the town flourished until it was destroyed by the Huns in the 5th century, then rebuilt only to be destroyed again at the end of the 6th century. A typical example of Roman town planning, the streets crossed at right angles and followed the cardinal points. Most of what there is to see here are columns and bits of buildings lying in the long grass, the marble statues and other valuable finds having been removed to museums in Sofia and Veliko Tarnovo. You can still see the odeon (small theatre and stage); the agora (the main square) surrounded by columns; parts of the thermi (public baths), streets paved with enormous stone blocks and remains of a waste water and central heating system! QOpen 09:00 - 18:00 April-October, 10:00-16:00 November-March. Admission free.

Preobrazhenski Monastery (Preobrazhenski Manastir) near Veliko Tarnovo. If you enjoy hiking, then the Preobrazhenski (Transfiguration) Monastery, is a good hour and a half hike (about 7km) north of Veliko Tarnovo. Alternatively you can go by car or taxi along the main road to Russe, turning off after 6km.Originally dating back to the 14th century, the beginnings of the present day monas-tery date back to 1825 and eventually brought together two of Bulgaria’s most gifted artisans from the Revival period; Kolyo Ficheto and Zahari Zograf. Most remarkable among the frescoes is the depiction of the ‘wheel of life’ on the southern outer wall of the church. Set among the forests on the hill overlooking the Yantra Gorge, one can enjoy the tranquility and beautiful views or let the mind wander to those turbulent years in the second half of the 19th century when many a revolutionary, including Vassil Levski, found refuge here. Q Free admission, donations welcome.

Children’s EntertainmentThere is not much on offer for kids in Veliko Tarnovo. The children’s play-grounds in the parks are set to be totally revamped and turned into lovely modern ones, but for the meantime any children looking for somewhere to play will have to make do with the broken old metal equipment from 30 or 40 years ago. There’s a privately-run kids centre in the Marno Pole park ‘see Smeholandia below’. You can also try out the swimming pools in the town.Smeholandia A-1, ul. Marno Pole 9G, tel. (+359) 62 650 842, www.smeholandia.com. Children’s party centre with indoor soft play areas for children and toddlers. In the summer there is a bouncy castle in the park in front and seating for adults at the adjoining cafe. You can leave children on an hourly basis to play in the soft-play area inside. English spoken. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00. 4 leva per hour. PJ

CinemaCinema Arena ul. Oborishte 18, Central Mall, www.kinoarena.com. Three modern, comfy and air-conditioned cinema halls in the Central Mall. To check the programme go to the English version of the site. QOpen 10:00 - 00:30. Tickets from 5-12 leva depending on whether it is a new release. P

BowlingGalaxy Bowling ul. Oborishte 18, Central Mall, www.galaxybowling.bg, tel. (+359) 062 628888. 10 bowling lanes, snooker, billiards, table football, flippers, air hockey, darts and more. After 22:00 special lighting effects and music. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. From 4 leva per game to 30 leva per hour for bowling and from 5-6 leva per hour for snooker and billiards.

Outdoor ActivitiesOutdoor activities include hiking and mountain biking. There are hiking paths that start from Veliko Tarnovo and a particulalry good one goes from the town to Arbanassi village, allowing you to take a look at the sights there too. There is an outdoor activity area called Ksilifor which is situated about 3 or 4km from Veliko Tarnovo and which is popular with locals for a weekend getaway on hot days. Children can play in the playground with wooden swings and slides, there is a barbecue area and a lake. A cafe offers snacks and drinks.Rock climbing, abseiling (rapelling) down waterfalls and eco trails in the Veliko Tarnovo area for all levels can be arranged by calling (+359) 899 871 688, climbing.bulgaria@gmail.comWatersports such as wakeboarding, ringos, water skiing can be had at the Alexander Stamboliiski reservoir approximately 40km from Veliko Tarnovo in the direction of Sevlievo. You will need to book your sessions in advance. (+359) 886 321 510, www.watersportsvelikoturnovo.com

CyclingCycling in Veliko Tarnovo means mountain biking, as there is not a flat piece of ground in sight and most of the roads are in terrible condition. There are hiking tracks and mountain biking tracks in the hills around the town, which you can find more information about from the bike rental shop.

Gorgona Shop B-1, ul.Zelenka 2, tel. (+359) 62 601 400. This is probably your best bet for cycling, climbing and camping gear. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Mountain bike rental 10 leva per day.

SwimmingThere are two heated indoor pools in the largest hotels: Yantra and Interhotel, which are open to visitors. Price per day is 10 leva. The Premier Hotel has an outdoor rooftop pool and is open to visitors.There is also an outdoor swimming pool complex with sunloungers and umbrellas at the Hotel Sveta Gora on top of Sveta Gora hill, accessed by car from ul. Magistralna, the main road to Varna. Admission 5 leva.

CafesCafes are everywhere. Bulgarians like drinking coffee and they like to sit down to do it, so there is no shortage of cafes. Not to mention that bars and restau-rants are also open all day long and will happily serve you a hot drink. We have restricted our listing to those cafes that are really worth recommending and that will enrich your experience of Tarnovo. Bear in mind that coffee is served as espresso and if you would like anything other than that you should choose cappucino or a cold frappe. You can also ask for a ‘dulgo cafe’, which means an espresso with more water. Cream (smetana) comes in little plastic cartons. Tea is not popular and will usually be herbal, though those that we have listed here serve a variety of green and black teas in little teapots.

Hadji Nikoli Inn Cafe A-2, ul.Rakovski 19, tel. (+359) 62 651 291, www.hanhadjinikoli.com. The courtyard of the beautifully restored inn is one of the most tranquil places to stop off for a coffee or a bite to eat. The cafe menu offers a selection of tasty sandwiches, pizzas and desserts. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Coffee in style for less than 2 leva (cappuccino just over 2 leva) always accompanied by a tasty home-made biscuit. PA6IBKW

Stratilat A-2, ul.Rakovski 11, tel. (+359) 62 635 313. At the beginning of the old shopping street (Samovodska Charshia) this popular cafe and pastry shop is located in a lovely old building with a large outdoor seating area. Inside there are several levels facing an atrium. Try the delicious iced coffee with chocolate. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PJBS

Vienna Cafe A-2, pl. Velchova Zavera, Grand Hotel Yantra, www.yantrabg.com. Indoor cafe on the ground floor of the 4-star Yantra hotel serving high quality pastries and cakes made in the hotel as well as coffee, a wide selection of teas and lunchtime snacks. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAW

Fast FoodMcDonald’s ul. Magistralna 17, tel. (+359) 888 611 805. McDonald’s has recently come to Veliko Tarnovo, though it is up on the highway that passes through from Sofia to Varna, which is not particularly convenient for anyone based in the town centre. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PTABW

HealthAura Medical Centre (Meditsinski Tsentur Aura) C-1, ul. Marno Pole 21, 3rd floor, tel. (+359) 62 600 161. Private medical centre in the city centre, across from Marno Pole park, with 32 doctors covering most ail-ments. You may have difficulty finding anyone who speaks English. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Regional hospital Dr Stefan Cherkezov (Mnogoprofilna oblastna bolnitsa (MOBAL) Dr Stefan Cherkezov) ul. Nish 1, tel. (+359) 62 640 932, www.mobaltarnovo.com. The large regional hospital has the only A&E ward, as well as doctors from almost every field of medicine. Outpatients are seen in the Arkus Medical Centre, where the receptionists speak enough English to point you in the right direction, and some of the doctors also speak English. German is also spoken. It is some way from the city centre so you would have to take a short taxi ride to get there. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

HealthfoodBiogradina C-1, ul. Marno Pole 24 G, tel. (+359) 886 835 038, bio.garden@live.com. Health food shop in the city centre that stocks imported organic food and drinks, herbs, teas, baby food, clothes, organic nappies and wooden toys; organic cosmetics, some of which are locally produced and are highly recommended. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

PharmaciesThere are quite a few pharmacies on the town’s main shopping street, sell-ing everything from sunscreen to babies’ nappies and medicines. There are two 24-hour pharmacies, one on ul. Nikola Gabrovski 33 and the other on ul. Veliki Preslav 4. Out of hours these pharmacies serve from a hatch and you may have to ring a buzzer to get someone’s attention.

Mail & PhonesCentral Post Office (Tsentralna Poshta) B-1, ul. Hristo Botev 1. For posting letters use the room straight ahead from the main entrance. Phone booths are in the room to the left of the entrance, open from 09:00-14:00 and 14:30 - 18:00 on weekdays and closed at weekends. Faxes can also be sent from here. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

The emergency telephone number is 112(all landline and mobile operators in Bulgaria)

www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria

McNamaras_v1_A5Portrait_2.pdf 1 07/06/2012 00:14:41

P Air conditioning I Fireplace

T Child friendly V Home delivery

J City centre location E Live music

A Credit cards accepted B Outside seating

U Disabled access S Take away

6 Dogs allowed W Wi-Fi connection

Restaurants symbol key

The general consensus is that this is one of the better restaurants in Ve-liko Tarnovo and it is invariably full. Situated on the high street at the beginning of the old town, it offers outdoor pavement dining. inside the restaurant is split on two levels with spectacular views over the Assen Monument. The menu is so extensive, you won’t have time to read it all.

Open 11:00 - 01:00ul.Stefan Stambolov 79

tel. (+359) 62 600 656www.shtastliveca.com

Shtastlivetsa

Open 24 hr a dayLarge covered terrace

Vast photo menuA full English breakfast

Take away service

Maika Bulgaria sq.tel. (+359) 882 552 661www.bianco-pizza.com

“Our mission is to make your property purchase as straightforward and painless as possible by closely focusing our efforts on your requirements”

Yantra Homes Ltd7 Slaveikov Street(next to the House with the Monkey)

tel. +359 (0) 62539980 info@yantrahomes.com www.yantrahomes.com

YANTRA HOMES

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Church of the Archangels Michael & Gabriel (Tsurkva Sveti Ar-hangeli Mihail i Gavrail) Arbanassi, www.museumvt.com. The church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel is the biggest in the village, built around 1600, with frescoes and paintings that are equally impressive to those of the Nativity church. The imposing iconostasis and Bishop’s throne are unusual examples of gilded woodcarving. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00 April - October. November-March by request only. Standard museum admission fee.

Holy Virgin Monastery (Arbanashki manastir Sveta Bogoroditsa) Arbanassi. Situated at the upper entrance of the village, this working convent attracts many visitors and pilgrims on religious holidays. Erected in the Middle Ages, it was later destroyed by marauders and the low-lying modest present-day church dates from 1680. Its lovely frescoes, which are still intact, were painted in the 18th century. The main attraction is the silver-clad icon of The Virgin with the Three Hands which is said to work miracles and to which believers turn to this day when in need. Legend tells that the icon was buried by the nuns when fleeing their attackers and was later found by a shepherd boy who heard weeping coming from under the ground. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30.

St. Nikolai Monastery (Arbanashki manastir Sveti Nikolai Chudo-tvorets) Arbanassi, tel. (+359) 62 650 345, www.svnikolai-chudotvorec.com. Situated in the lower part of the village, the monastery (it is in fact a convent)

is a popular destination for visitors who like to walk in the lovely gardens and see the priceless icons and relics inside the chapel. The icons on the iconostasis have remained intact since 1897, while two individual icons attract pilgrims from afar: the miracle working icon of St. Nikolai and the icon of the Holy Virgin. Worshippers pray to the latter and press a coin onto it, if the coin sticks they believe their prayer has been heard. To come here on the important church holiday on August 15th (dedicated to the Holy Virgin) and to participate in the service through the night is an unforgettable experience. Both Tsar Ferdinand and Tsar Boris III stayed in this monastery when they travelled to Arbanassi and the rooms they occupied remain intact to this day. Accommodation is available at this monastery in simple, clean rooms with their own bathroom facilities. Breakfast, lunch and dinner can also be ordered. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30.

The Konstantsalieva House (Muzei Konstantsalieva Kushta) Arbanassi.The Konstantsalieva house, on one of the main roads through the village, originally built in the 17th century, has been beautifully restored in National Revival style. It reflects not only the wealth of the owners but also the attention to detail and the quality craftsmanship of that time. In a style typical for Arbanassi, the two storey house is set in a large yard surrounded by a high stone wall. The lower floor is constructed of stone, the upper floor and living quarters are timber construction. Stairs are internal as an extra security precaution. The winter rooms were heated by large built in stoves (known as dzhamal) which were fed and cleaned from a separate service access. There is even an internal toilet (hole in the floor), a luxury many homes in the neighbouring villages do not have to this day. On the ground floor where the store rooms and living quarters for the servants would have been, there is a large souvenir shop. Q Open 9:00 - 18:00 April to October. Closed Mon 9:00 - 12:00. November - March by appointment. Standard museum admission fee.

The Nativity Church (Tsurkva Rozhdestvo Hristovo) Arbanassi. The Nativity Church is the oldest church in Arbanassi. Originally built during the 15th century the simple low level building belies the wealth of art to be found within. Nearly every inch of the vaulted interior is covered in paintings and frescoes dating back to the 17th century. Scenes are from the old and new testaments: the life of Christ, the virtues of the Virgin Mary, there is even a frieze of Greek philosophers and several inscriptions of the benefactors and sponsors. The ‘Wheel of Life’ on the east wall of the north gallery is the earliest depiction of this type in Bulgarian churches. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00 April - October. Closed on Mon 9:00 - 12:00. November - March by appointment. Standard museum admission fee.

Bulgarka Restaurant Arbanassi, tel. (+359) 889 207 020, www.hotel-bulgarka.com. Large indoor and outdoor seating areas in traditional mehana (tavern) style with a rich menu offering home cooked Bulgarian cuisine, including local specialities. Large childrens play area with a mini bouncy castle adjacent to the summer garden. During the summer months there is a Bulgarian folklore programme every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday evening at 21:00. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (12-40 leva). PTA6LEB

Kaloyanova Krepost Arbanassi, tel. (+359) 882 111 113, www.kaloiano-vakrepost.com. This replica of a mediaevel fortress is to be found on the road out of Arbanassi towards the main Varna-Sofia road. Inside the main entrance, decorated to resemble the grand entrance to a palace with faded gilt walls and thrones, is the enormous restaurant. Tables are laid out on tiered balconies sur-rounding the main entertainment area in the middle where all kinds of events can be staged, from re-enactments of mediaeval battles on horseback to MMA fight nights. Outside seating area with great views and a childrens play area. Food on offer is traditional Bulgarian. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. PEBK

Luliaka Arbanassi, ul. Opalchenska 1, tel. (+359) 62 630 260. Another family favourite with a large garden area and good home cooking. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (12-30 leva). TB

Mehana Izvora ul.Opalchenska 3, tel. (+359) 62 627 917, fax (+359) 62 603 850, www.izvora.com. Probably one of the best places to eat in Arbanassi, especially if you have young children, as there is so much to see and do in the gardens of this complex. There is even a mini zoo to keep them entertained while you work your way through the extensive menu! Specialities include whole roasted lamb or other meat dishes prepared in the traditional oven or on the charcoal grill. There is also regular folklore entertainment and live music. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (15-30 leva). PTAILEBW

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Editorial

Editors: Christine Milner, Paromita SanataniContributors: Jaycie Clayton, Stephane Lambert, Maya Kacheva

Publisher: Inside & out Ltd.Office: 9 Frityof Nansen St., 5th floor, Sofia bulgaria@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.comChristine Milner, (+359) 884 864 820christine.milner@inyourpocket.comParomita Sanatani, (+359) 888 408 647paromita.sanatani@inyourpocket.com Printing: IFO DesignPublished: 15,000 copies

Design, layout and maps: Flo Grafix Ltd.Cover: Bulphoto Agency © Lubomir Benkovski

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Text and photos copyright Inside & out 2011-2012. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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arriving & getting aroundintroducing veliko tarnovo

where to stay

Akatsia B-1Alexander Penchev B-1Al. Stamboliiski B-1Assen Ruskov B-1Bacho Kiro C-1Boris Denev B-4Bratia Belchevi B-1Bratia Miladinovi A-2Buzludzha A-1Chernorizets Hrabur C-4Chitalishtna B-2/3Dimitar Naidenov C-4Dondukov B-1Dr. Petar Beron A-4Dragoman A-1Esperanto B-1Gagarin C-1Georgi Kirkov, pl. B-2Gotse Delchev B-3Grigorii Tsamblak B/C-4Gurkho B/C-1Hadji Dimitar B-1Hristo Botev B/C-1Hristo Daskalov A-1Hristo Ivanov B-3Hristo Karaminkov B-1Ivan Panov B-1Ivan Vazov B-2/3Ivanka Boteva B-2

Ivaylo B-1Kap. Petko Voyvoda A-1Karadzha A-2Kipriyan C-4Kolyo Gaitandzhiyata A-1Konstantin Kisimov B-1Kozloduy C-1Kraibrezhna B/C-2/3Ksiliforska A-3/4Lyuben Karavelov C-1Maika Bulgaria, pl. B-1Marno Pole B/C-1Marno Pole, pl. C-1Maxim Raykovich B-2/3Mednikarska A-1Mihail Kefalov B-3Mitropolska A/B-3/4Nezavisimost A/B-1Nikola Pikolo B-2/3Nikola Zlatarski A-2Opalchenska A/B-2Otets Paisii C-1Panayot Angelov B-1Panayot Tipografov A-2Patriarch Evtimii A-3Petar Bogdanov B-3Pobornicheska A-2Pobornicheski, pl. A-1Pop Hariton C-1

Rafael Mihailov B-1Rakovski A/B-2Reservoarska A-2Sava Penev B-1Sedmi yuli C-1Sheinovo B-3Shipka A-2Silvestar B-2/3Slaveikov A-1Slaveikov, pl. A-1Slivnitsa B-4St. Kliment Ohridski A/B-4Sts Kiril i Methodi A-1/2Stefan Stambolov A/B-2Teodosii Turnovski C-4Tsanko Tserkovski B-1Tsar Assen, pl. B-3Tsar Ivan Assen II A/B-2/3Tsar Ivan Shishman A-4Tsar Kaloyan B-1Tsar Todor Svetoslav B/C-1Tsarevets A-4Vassil Drumev A-4Vassil Levski B-1Vastanicheska A-2Velchova Zavera, pl. B-2Yantra A-2Yordan Indzheto B-3Zelenka B-1

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Veliko Tarnovo has a surprisingly large number of hotels for its small size, though considering the popularity of Tsarevets fortress perhaps it is under-standable. Most seem to fill up for the weekends and it may even be difficult to get a room in your hotel of choice, whereas during the week they are quieter. The most popular hotels are in the old town and there are some lovely quiet locations overlooking Tsarevets. All in all, the level of service and facilities on offer are of very high quality.

UpmarketGrand Hotel Yantra B-2, pl. Velchova Zavera, ul. Opalchenska 2, tel. (+359) 62 600 607, fax (+359) 62 606 569, office@yantrabg.com, www.yantrabg.com. POJHAUFBKDCW hhhhInterhotel Veliko Turnovo B-1, ul. Alexander Penchev 2, tel. (+359) 62 601 000, www.interhotelvt.bg. PJAFBKDCW hhhhPanorama A-2, ul. Stefan Stambolov 63, tel. (+359) 62 602 600, panorama_vt @abv.bg, www.panorama-vt.bg. PTJHA6FKDCW hhhhPremier B-1, ul.Sava Penev 1, tel. (+359) 886 056 565/(+359) 62 615 555, www.hotelpremier-bg.com. PJULBKDCW hhhhMeridian Bolyarski A-2, ul.Stefan Stambolov 53A, tel. (+359) 62 613 200, fax (+359) 62 603 355, www.bolyarski.com. PHAFKDC hhhh

Mid-rangeAkvaya Business Hotel ul. Liuben Karavelov 40, tel. (+359) 62 519 200, fax (+359) 62 519 201, office@akvaya.com, www.akvaya.com. PHFLEBKDCW hhhAlegro B-1, ul. Teodor Svetoslav15, tel. (+359) 62 602 332, fax (+359) 62 602 333, alegro_vt@yahoo.com, www.hotelalegro.com. PJABKW hhhBoliari B-2, ul. Ivanka Boteva 2, tel. (+359) 62 606 002, boliarihotel@yahoo.com, www.boliarihotel.com. PJ hhhCentral B-1, ul.Hadji Dimitar 17A, tel. (+359) 62 606 096, fax (+359) 62 606 596, www.hotelcentral-bg.com. P hhhConcorde ul. Tsanko Ts erkovski 14, tel. (+359) 62 602 211, fax (+359) 62 602 222, hotelconcorde_vt@abv.bg, www.hotel-concorde-vt.com. PJHAFKDW hhhFamily Hotel Silvestar B-3, ul. Silvestar 18, tel. (+359) 62 602 025, reservation@fhsilvestar.com, www.fhsilvestar.com. PJLBW hhhGurko B-2, ul. Gurko 33, tel. (+359) 62 627 838, hotel_gurko@abv.bg, www.hotel-gurko.com. PJBKW hhhKiev B-3, ul. Velchova Zavera 4, tel. (+359) 62 600 571/(+359) 0898 549 826. PJN hhhLucky B-3, ul. Nikola Pikolo 3, tel. (+359) 62 651 224, www.hotel-lucky.com. PJAW hhhMinotel Rashev B-3, ul. Nikola Pikolo 2, tel. (+359) 62 622 228, fax (+359) 62 622 227, hotel_rashev@abv.bg, www.hotel-rashev.com. PJFBKDWReal B-1, ul. Kolio Gaitandzhiyata 2, tel. (+359) 879 357 575, info@hotel-real.eu, www.hotelreal.eu. PW hhhStudio B-3, ul. Todor Lefterov 4, tel. (+359) 62 604 010, studio@studiohotel-vt.com, www.studiohotel-vt.com. PJBKWTarnava B-3, ul. Ivan Vazov 6, tel. (+359) 62 603 862, www.hotel-tarnava.com. PW hhhTarnovo C-1, ul. Marno Pole 25, tel. (+359) 62 651 199, reservations@hoteltarnovo.com, www.hoteltarnovo.com. PJHULKW hhhTsarevets B-3, ul. Chitalishtna 23, tel. (+359) 62 601 885, fax (+359) 62 605 655, tzarevetz@mail.bg, www.tsarevetshotel.com. PJA hhh

BudgetThere are quite a few hostels in the town, reflecting the number of backpackers that come through to see the sights.

Hostel Mostel B-3, ul. Yordan Indzheto 10, tel. (+359) 897 859 359, reservations@hostelmostel.com, www.hostelmostel.com. NLow Costel Hostel B-1, ul. Assen Ruskov 6, tel. (+359) 885 726 733, www.lowcostelhostel.com. NNomads Hostel A-2, ul. Gurko 27, tel. (+359) 62 603 092/(+359) 886 039 705, info@nomadshostel.com, www.nomadshostel.com. J

Veilko Tarnovo is a small town, so everything you need to see is either within walking distance or a short taxi ride away.

By BusConfusingly, there are two bus stations serving different routes. Buses to and from Sofia, Varna, Plovdiv and Russe run from the South (Yug) station, which is a 5-minute walk from the town centre, while buses to and from other parts of Bulgaria stop at the Zapad (West) bus station, about 4 km from the town centre. Coaches belonging to the private company ETAP stop outside the Etar hotel in the town centre.

South Bus Station (Avtogara Yug) tel. (+359) 62 630 111.West Bus Station (Avtogara Zapad) tel. (+359) 62 640 908.

By CarVeliko Tarnovo is on the main road from Sofia to Varna at the Black Sea and you would drive through the town on your way to or from either, just bypass-ing the town centre. You can drive right into the city centre. Parking is paid by the hour (currently 1 lev per hour), either by text message or voucher from an attendant, easy to spot in their reflective vests. If you don’t pay for park-ing you will find your front left wheel clamped and will have to call to have it removed. If you don’t call for several hours, your car will be towed away.

By TrainNot on the main Sofia-Varna line so those coming from either direction would get off in the town of Gorna Oryahovitsa and take a mini bus from in front of the station or a taxi, which should cost around 10 leva and takes 10-15 minutes. The train station in Veliko Tarnovo serves the Plovdiv-Burgas line and is just south of the city centre. Trains from Istanbul and Bucharest also stop at this station.

Dangers & AnnoyancesThe biggest danger here is probably falling off the precarious walls and towers of Tsarevets fortress! A small town, Veliko Tarnovo does not suffer from the usual scourges of big cities, but even so keep an eye on your belongings and exercise the usual caution walking around alone at night.

Beggars seems to come out at the weekends in order to catch the tourist crowds and will sit in front of the entrances to tourist sights, often with a baby in their arms. It is up to you whether you wish to give them money or not, though be aware that the money is probably going into someone else’s pocket.

Take care crossing roads, as Bulgarian drivers are not known to stop at pedestrian crossings.

The town has no public toilets - or no working ones at least - so if you feel the need you will have to go into a cafe, restaurant or hotel, of which there are plenty. Most will have a small dish outside the toilet with a sign asking you to pay 20 or 50 stotinki for the service.

TaxisTaxis in Bulgaria are all painted bright yellow and are usually branded to a particular company. They charge by the kilometre, with an initial fee of anywhere up to 1 lev. A cap on the price per kilometre has recently been im-posed and will be around 60-70 stotinki daytime and slightly higher at night. Despite this, taxis are well known for ripping off tourists, either by improperly displayed prices which then turn out to be ten or twenty times higher or by claiming their meter is not working and then demanding an outrageous fee at the end of the journey. The following taxi companies have been recom-mended as reliable in Veliko Tarnovo:

Inter Taxi - (+359) 62 630 063, mobile (+359) 889 992 900

Euro Taxi - (+359) 62 633 633, mobile (+359) 887 633 633

Alex OK - (+359) 62 616 16, mobile (+359) 887 861 616. Call and hang up, they will call you back.

The major sight is Tsarevets, the medieval fortress and you would never be forgiven if you came here without visiting it. There is more to see, however, including various mediaeval churches with well-preserved frescoes (if that is your thing), a couple of decent museums and the lovely cobbled streets of the old town with houses built into the rocks. The Samovod-ska Charshia (pictured right) that starts near Tsarevets and leads to the town centre is lined with lovely little craft shops and cafes as well as a few local craftspeople demonstat-ing copperwork, woodwork, weaving and traditional sweet making.

GalleriesBoris Denev State Art Gallery (Hudozhestvena Galeria Boris Denev) B-2, Assenevtsi Park, tel. (+359) 62 638 941. A visit to this art gallery allows you to combine a brief overview of Bulgarian art over the past century and a half with a delightful walk across the river to enjoy the incomparable view of the houses of Veliko Tarnovo stacked up one atop the other on the opposite hill. Situated next to the impressive Assens’ monument, the gallery occupies a lovely building from the early 20th century. Inside, the collection is fairly small, which makes it all the more manageable for those without much of a clue about Bulgarian art. There is an icon room, several corridors with etchings and the main collection features views of Veliko Tarnovo or historical events that took place here by various 20th century artists. A wonderful use of colour is apparent, particularly in the renditions of the houses on the hill, which you can see from here simply by looking out of the window. QOpen 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. 3 leva (adults) 1 leva (children and students) 3 leva (family ticket). Children under 7 free of charge. Guided tour in foreign language 5 leva. Thursdays free of charge.

Hadji Nikoli Art Gallery A-2, ul.Rakovski 19, tel. (+359) 62 651 291. On the third floor of Haji Nikoli Inn the art gallery covers six exhibition halls in two separate wings and hosts exhibitions every month featuring the works of contem-porary Bulgarian artists. QOpen 13:00-17:00. Closed Mon.

LandmarksAssenova Mahala A-3/4. The neighbourhood (Mahala) of the Assens was where the craftspeople lived in the flourishing mediaeval Veliko Tarnovo. Running alongside the Yantra river below the fortress, one can reach it in 10 minutes by walking down the steep main road. At the beginning of the Mahala is the 40 Martyrs church and keeping on the same side of the river one comes across the Assumption church and St. Peter and Paul church. If you cross over the pretty Vladishki Most (Vladishki bridge) into the other half of the neighbourhood you can visit the St. Dimitur church, wander around the cobbled streets and have a drink or snack in the restaurant. Too hot in the daytime, it could be a pleasant place for a stroll of an evening, though to be honest there is not much to see here unless you are a fan of churches.

Maika Bulgaria (Pametnik Maika Bulgaria) B-1, pl. Maika Bulgaria. In memory of those who perished in the fight for Bulgaria’s liberation from the Ottoman Turks, an eternal flame burns in the centre of the monument. Mother Bulgaria kneels at the top, holding up the flag of victory.

The Assens Monument (Pametnik na Assenovtsi) B-2. A landmark that can be seen from so many points in the town and from every cafe and res-taurant that has a terrace overhanging the river, this monument was erected for the 800th anniversary of the crowning of Tarnovo as the capital of the second

Bulgaria’s old capital and the site of great historical battles occupies a dramatic hillside location with the Yantra river winding through it. The whole town is postcard pretty in any season, though spring and autumn are the best for sightseeing as Tarnovo is also one of the country’s hottest places in the summer and one of the coldest in winter.

The relatively well preserved mediaeval Tsarevets fortress is the most visited historical site in the country. There is much more to see in Veliko Tarnovo than Tsarevets, however, and those tourists who only swing by in their air-conditioned coaches to tick off this box are missing the laid-back atmosphere of this lovely town.

Be prepared to give your feet a good bashing and wear sensible shoes as you explore the cobbled alleys and marvel at the houses built into the rocks overhanging the river. Be forewarned that there are little, if no, facilities for the disabled.

The city has been inhabited since the 3rd millenium B.C., remains having been found on the now overgrown Trapezitsa hill. Thracian tribes lived on Tsarevets hill in the Bronze and Iron ages but the Romans preferred nearby Nicopolis ad Istrum with its hot springs. The town’s golden age came with the declaration of independence from the Byzantine empire in 1185 by the local Boliar (an aristocratic title) brothers Ivan Assen and Peter in Veliko Tarnovo. They subsequently conducted a two-year battle with the empire to secure Bulgaria’s freedom and in 1187 the Second Bulgarian Kingdom was born, with its capital Turnovgrad (Veliko Tarnovo), and the brothers became Tsars. They are referred to as the ‘Assens’, together with a third brother, Kaloyan, who took over after their deaths. The fourth ‘Assen’ is Ivan Assen II, the son of Ivan Assen, who ruled from 1218 to 1241 and brought the Kingdom to new heights, conquering neighbouring lands that gave it access not only to the Black Sea but also to the Aegean and Adriatic seas. An unconquerable fortress from the 12th to 14th centuries, Turnovgrad enjoyed an economic and cultural apogee.

The city was built on three hills: Tsarevets, Trapezitsa and Sveta Gora. Tsarevets and Trapezitsa formed an ‘innner city’ surrounded by impenetrable walls, where the royal palace, residence of the Patriarch (head of the church) and many places of worship were located, as well as the grand mansions of the high-ranking aristocracy, while an ‘outer city’, also fortified, spread down to Assenova Mahala by the river where the craftsmen lived and the neighbourhood of foreign traders. Only the poorest people lived outside the walls. The Second Bulgarian Kingdom came to an end in 1393 when Turnovgrad fell to the Ottoman Turk troops after a three month seige and so began almost 500 years of cultural, spiritual and political stagnation until the National Revival movement began to awaken the Bulgarians’ sense of national pride as the Ottoman Empire’s strength waned. The liberation of Bulgaria in 1877 again placed Tarnovo at the centre of political life. As the new capital city it was the place where the first Bulgarian constitution was written, the first ‘Great’ National Assembly took place and Prince Alexander Battenberg was elected head of state. It ceded its title of capital to Sofia in 1879.

The name Tarnovo is believed to come from the Slavic word ‘trun’, meaning thorn, though other theories link it to the roman word for fortress. The word ‘Veliko’, meaning ‘great’, was officially only added in 1966.

Bulgarian state (1185-1393). The monument depicts the four Bulgarian Tsars Assen, Peter, Kaloyan and Ivan Assen on horseback and commemorates their achievement in turning Veliko Tarnovo into the great city it once was. A walk over the Stambolov bridge (built in 1892) to the monument is well rewarded by the view that one receives on the other side of the houses of old Tarnovo stacked one atop the other on the hillside opposite. A new version of the sound and light show bathed the monument in a rainbow of magical colours on a couple of evenings in 2012 but there is no information on fixed dates for this show.

Main SightsSamovodska Charshia A-2/B-2, pl. Samovodska Charshia/ul. Rakovski. Samovodska Charshia (market) square is where the people of nearby Samovodene village came to sell their home-grown produce in the second half of the 19th century. The marketplace flourished and spread down the quaint and cobbled Rakovski street, encompassing various inns (Hadji Nikoli’s inn, built 1858, is still there today), bakeries and pastry shops and traditional craft workshops. The whole area underwent serious restoration in the mid 1980s to recreate the bustling marketplace of the early 20th century. In among the beautifully renovated houses from the pre- and post-liberation period the visitor can find workshops for pottery, weapons, copper working, wood carving, weaving, icon painting, Turkish sweets and a bakery.

Tsarevets B-4. Without a doubt the highlight attraction of the city. With only pedestrian access one can peacefully wander around the ancient ruins, walk along the breathtaking fortress walls (if you don’t suffer from vertigo) with views onto the surrounding hills of Sveta Gora, Momina Krepost and the overgrown Trapezitsa, at the foot of which is the picturesque old artisan’s quarter of Assenova Mahala. The main sites of the fortress are clearly identified and the visitor can follow a gentle path around. Children are free to run, clamber and discover, the only place where caution is advised is at Execution Rock at the northern end of the fortress. As the name suggests a fall from here down to the Yantra River would be nothing less than fatal. Past the palace ruins one comes to the top of the hill where once the Patriarch’s complex stood. The restored patriarchal church of the Ascension takes visitors by surprise with its stark modern interior and the dramatic murals painted by Teofan Sokerov (his self portrait is to the right of the altar) in 1985. Not to everyone’s taste, they depict the history of Bulgaria from the Second Bulgarian Kingdom onwards (1185) and on the floor is a symbolic tombstone with the names of the Bulgarian Kings. For an additional fee (Adults 2 leva, children free) you can take the scenic elevator up the bell tower of the church to get a panoramic view of the surrounding area.Before leaving the fortress or continuing down to Baldwin’s tower, there is the op-portunity for a refreshment stop at the café, away from the traffic of the main road, to absorb all one has seen or to just rest the feet. You will also find acceptable toilet facilities here. Children might be entertained by a puppet show giving some pre-recorded history about Tsar Kaloyan (younger brother to Peter and Assen) in various languages or they can pose for photos dressed up in mediaeval costume. There is not much shade on Tsarevets so during the summer months it is best to avoid the midday heat. The fascinating history of the fortress is dramatized in a spectacular sound (not narrative) and coloured light show, which takes place at night on public holidays and on the holiday of Veliko Tarnovo (March 22). Q 8:00-19:00 April-October; 9:00 -17:00 November-March. Last admission 45 minutes prior to closing. Standard museum admission fee. The ticket office is situated a little offside from the main entrance to the fortress.

MuseumsIn the region of Veliko Tarnovo and Arbanassi there are over 20 museums run by the Regional Museum of History Veliko Tarnovo. Some are of major significance and should not be missed, others have been neglected or pale in comparison to Sofia’s main museums and others again are really just a matter of personal taste and preference. Admission to each museum is 6 leva

per adult, so usually by the second or third museum enthusiasm wanes as the expense increases. The new passes giving access to 10 museums are a more attractive option. It is worth bearing in mind that many exhibits still do not have descriptions in English.

Archaeological Museum (Arheologicheski Muzei) B-2, ul.Ivanka Bo-teva 2. Adjacent to the museum of Bulgarian Revival and constituent Assembly, the Archeological Museum traces the development of the region from prehistoric times via Antiquity to the Middle Ages. The undoubted highlight is one of the oldest gold treasures in the world - from Hotnitsa in the vicinity of Veliko Tarnovo - dat-ing from 4100 B.C. The treasure comprises a necklace made up of gold rings, a bracelet and 4 anthropomorphic amulets. The Bulgarian civilisation from the 5th millenium B.C., from which gold treasures have also been found in Varna, is consid-ered by scholars to predate even the Egyptian and Sumerian civilisations. There is also an interesting collection of Roman clay objects from archeological digs at nearby Nicopolis ad Istrum and the Roman fort Novae on the Danube. QOpen 09:00-18:00 April-October 09:00-17:30 November-March. Closed Mon. Standard museum admission fee.

Museum in the Hadji Nikoli Inn (Muzei Han Hadzhi Nikoli) A-2, ul.Rakovski 19, tel. (+359) 62 651 291, www.hanhadjinikoli.com. The Hadji Nikoli Inn, which was built in 1858 by the master builder Kolyo Ficheto for the well known Tarnovo tradesman, Hadji Nikoli, is a splendid example of the Bulgarian Revival period. The recently restored and renovated building won a special award in the ‘Building of the Year 2010’ contest and is the only one of 70 inns that were built in the city to have survived to the present day. On the second floor there are two wings of exhibition space where visitors can enjoy special exhibitions on loan from Bulgarian museums. QOpen 10:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 leva (adults) 2 leva (children and students) 3 leva per person (Groups 5+)

Museum of the Bulgarian Revival and Constituent Assembly (Muzei Vuzrazhdane i Uchreditelno Subranie) B-2, pl.Saedinenie 1. On 10th February 1879 the constituent National Assembly of the Third Bulgarian State was held in the Konak (Turkish town hall), which since 1985 is home to the Museum of Bulgarian Revival and Constituent Assembly. The magnificent room in which the assembly took place is one of the highlights, although currently it is undergoing renovation and is closed to the public. If you ask nicely the warden will allow you a glimpse into the room. Other exhibition areas are dedicated to the development of icon painting, the regional struggle for liberation from the Ottoman empire and the economic development of the region during the Revival period. Unfortunately not everything is labelled in English and it really depends on your interest in these subjects as to how long you wish to spend in the museum. Q 09:00-18:00 April-October, 09:00-17:30 November-March. Last admission 30 minutes prior to closing. Closed Tue 09:00-12:00. Standard museum admission fee.

Prison Museum (Muzei na Zatvora) B-2, pl. Suedinenie 1. This little museum in the museum complex allows you to look around the town’s prison that was used from the times of the Ottoman Turks right through the 20th century until 1954. Prisoners were held in the two storeys below ground level, sleeping on hard wooden benches and taken down to the dungeons to be systematically tortured. Primarily political prisoners, they were tortured by the Ottoman guards using a variety of gruesome methods that are described (unfortunately only in Bulgarian) and illustrated in some detail. Particularly alarming is the fact that they were beaten with the heads of other prisoners who had already been executed. Upstairs one can see the spartan solitary confinement cells, no bigger than a toilet cubicle, where prisoners were held in the 20th century. Tickets are purchased from the Museum of Recent History next door. QOpen 09:00-17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. Standard museum admission fee.

Sarafkina Kushta (House) B-2, ul.Gurko 88. Built in 1861 as the home and business premises for the wealthy money lender (‘Saraf’ in Bulgarian), this amazing five storey building has a most resilient history, withstanding both the construction of the railway tunnel below it and the 1913 earthquake that destroyed so much of Tarnovo. Today, having retained its original features and decor, it acts as an ethnographic museum and the exhibits that can be seen inside give some insight not only into Bulgarian traditions in general but also typical for this region. One room is dedicated to jewellery, another to costumes and yet another shows examples of ritual breads, painted eggs and a symbolic clay raft with a figurine on it, which is set afloat in the river as part of a ritual for rain. The upper floor is dedicated to a photographic historic record of the town and its people. QOpen 09:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Open 09:00-18:00 April-October. Open 09:00-17:30 November-March. Last admission 30 minutes prior to closing time. Standard museum admission fee.

Religious Buildings40 Holy Martyrs Church (Tsurkva Sveti Chetiriset Muchenitsi) A-4, Assenova Mahala. Nestled down in the river valley, immediately below Tsarevets, the church can be reached on foot in 15 or 20 minutes from the old town or Tsarevets. The pretty little mediaeval church is not at all imposing in appearance and yet it was here that Prince Ferdinand I declared the independence of Bulgaria from Ottoman rule on September 22 1908 and became Tsar. The church was badly damaged in 1913 by an earthquake and has only recently been restored. The mediaeval tsars Kaloyan, Ivan Assen II, Mihail Shishman, Tsaritsa Anna Maria and Tsaritsa Irina, and Saint Sava of Serbia are all buried here. QOpen 09:30-18:00.

Church of Saints Peter and Paul (Tsurkva Sveti Sveti Peter i Pavel) A-4, Assenova Mahala. Much of this church was also destroyed in the 1913 earthquake. Until then it had been one of Tarnovo’s longest serving churches. Today it has been partially restored and visitors can see remains of the original frescoes from three separate eras. A protective outer layer has been added to preserve the delicate frescoes. The six different columns were brought from the previous Bulgarian capitals of Pliska and Preslav. It was built during the reign of Tsar Kaloyan who in 1204 signed a union with the Roman Pope giving him the title of Tsar and head of the Bulgarian church. Q Open 09:00-18:00 April-October. Closed Wed 09:00-12:00. November-March upon request. Standard museum admission fee.

Nativity of Saint Mary Cathedral (Patriarsheski Hram Sveti Vuz-nesenie Gospodne) B-3, ul. Ivan Vazov. Not so much a sight as a place to have a quite moment of contemplation while sightseeing. The interior has some damage to the frescoes but the ceiling is beautifully painted. You can buy a candle and light it at any of the icons. Services are held on Sundays from 09:00-11:00, followed by weddings and baptisms. QOpen 08:00-19:00.

St Dimitur Church (Tsurkva Sveti Dimitur Solunski) A-3, Assenova Mahala. Though there is not much to see inside this mediaeval church apart from bare stone walls and a few fragments of frescoes, it is worth a mention as a landmark and cult building due to its place in Bulgarian history. The church’s construction was financed by artistocratic brothers Assen and Peter who, at its consecration in 1185, declared independence from the Byzantine empire (a big thing after nearly two centuries of suppression) and subsequently led a war to secure Bulgaria’s liberty, which resulted in them being crowned as Tsars. The church is located in the Assenova Mahala down by the Yantra river below Tsarevets. QOpen 09:00-18:00 April-October. Closed Wed 09:00-12:00. November-March upon request. Standard museum admission fee.

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Adults 6 leva, Students 2 leva, Children under 7 - free2 day individual ticket - admission to 10 sights - 20 leva2 day family ticket - up to 3 children - 10 sights - 30 levaFree admission the last Thursday of the monthAmateur photography 5 levaGuide services in a foreign language 20 - 30 levaFor more information: www.museumvt.com

Standard museum admission fee

You can hardly miss the tourist information centre, situated right in the town centre at the main square. A purpose-built one-storey construction, it is well manned by 4 or 5 helpful staff and has some free information brochures to give away as well as a selection of guides, maps and postcards for sale. They can also take bookings for hotels, car rental, excursions, guided tours and the town’s famed ‘Sound and Light’ show.Tourist Information CentreVeliko Tarnovo, ul. Hristo Botev 5tel. (+359) 62 622 148www.velikoturnovo.infoOpen: April - October Monday - Friday 9:00 to 18:00 Saturday and Sunday 10:00 to 17:00.November-MarchMonday - Friday 9:00 to 18:00 Saturday and Sunday closed.

Tourist information

VELIKO TarnOVO

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Map Hotels restaurants Bars Sights

2012 Complimentary copy

MInI-GUIDE

P Air conditioning L Guarded parking

O Casino B Outside seating

J City centre location K Restaurant

H Conference facilities D Sauna

A Credit cards accepted C Swimming pool

F Fitness centre W Wi-Fi connection

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events

Annual events

Day of Veliko Tarnovo, March 22. Processions, fireworks, Chinese lan-terns and a free Sound and Light show (below) mark the city’s holiday.

Sound and Light Show. An audio visual spectacle using music and light to evoke the dramatic and turbulent historic events around Tsarevets and the city of Tarnovo. Free show on all bank holidays and the Day of Veliko Tarnovo. Starts after dark. For other viewing dates, the information is vague and we suggest you contact the local Tourist Information Centre or check their website www.velikoturnovo.info. On these occasions viewers pay to view (and hear) from a special viewing deck.

Stara Planina Fest Balkan Folk Authentic Bulgarian folk festival with participants from all around the country. Held every year at the end of April/beginning of May.

Summer Events 2012

21.07 Saturday - 04.08 SaturdayInternational Folklore Festival 2012Dancing and festivities take to the streets with colourful folklore troupes from around the world.

27.07 Friday - 05.08 SundayStage of the Ages, Tsarevets Summer Festival 2012Tsarevets Hill (pictured above). The stars of Sofia Opera and Ballet spend 10 days performing in Veliko Turnovo and Gabrovo. The unforgettable night-time performances take place on an outdoor stage on Tsarevets Hill, with elaborate lighting and a unique atmosphere.OperaTurandot - July 27, 28, 29Rigoletto - August 3 and 4BalletDon Quixote July 31 and August 5 Q Performances start at 21:00 Tickets online from www.velikoturnovo.info or from the Tourist Info Centre.

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