undercovertourist

the

your survival guide: eating in Rome like a local

Table of Contents:

Things to Avoid........................................4

The Roman Restaurant Scene.............6

What the Romans Think.......................8

Real Italian Food vs. Fraud...................8

Ethinic Food in Rome...........................10

Restaurant Guide..................................12

Things to Avoid as AnUNDERCOVER TOURIST

By following these steps you will be well on your way to becoming an undercover tourist. Inside are specific instructions you must follow if you wish to

fully succeed. Good luck!

•When using your map, step to the side. There is nothing worse than a tourist taking up precious sidewalk space with a big old map! Map out your trip in advance so you have a feel for where you are going before leaving. Rome has some complicated streets!

•Don’t keep your camera around your neck; instead, keep it in hand or in a bag. A camera around the neck screams “Tourist in Italy.”

•Italians tend to dress nicely. Try to at least “half ” dress up for each day. Still, comfortable footwear is a must for all of the walking you’ll be doing. Be realistic! Socks & sandals/hawaiian shirts/sunhat/flip flops/sweats are all no-gos!

What is a tourist trap?•A Tourist Trap is a place where you will find mainly tour-ists and almost no real citizens of Italy. Avoid them at all costs!•Use our guide to learn how to order your authentic meals•Wrong pronunciations will give you away.

Types of Places to Eat:roman

eateries

When searching for a place to eat in Italy, there are a number of different options for where you choose to go. These places can be very confusing for Americans, so knowing their

differences can be helpful, and keep you from looking like a lost tourist.

A ristorante is a sit down restaurant. A ristorante can be fancy and pricey at times, but are great places to experience a full Italian menu that includes the antipasti, primi, secondi, and dolci.

A pizzeria is a restaurant that specializes in pizzas. In most cases, pizzeria still use a wood-fired oven. They sell other dishes, including pastas, at lower prices than ristorante. A trattoria is a family-run restaurant and is more casual than a ristorante. Trattoria are moderately priced and specialize in dishes specific to the region.

An osteria is an informal wine bar that serves re-gional foods and appetizers and offers tastings. One can go to an osteria for an aperitivo. In Italy, a bar not only serves alcohol, but also serves sandwiches, coffee, pastries, and even ice cream throughout the day. Bars are usually inexpensive and quick, as you usually aren’t supposed to sit down to eat. A pasticceria is a café and bakery that serves pas-tries, coffees and sandwiches. Pasticcerias are great places to have a quick breakfast at a moderate price. It is similar to a bar, but specializes in pastries.

A greeting is always in order upon entering any store or restau-rant. Ciao, or Buongiorno/Buona sera are acceptable.

Let your server know how many are in your party, and that you would like a table:Siamo due/tre/quattro: we are 2/3/4 and una tavola per 4/3/2 ~ a table for 4/3/2.

We would like to eat outside..............Vorremmo mangiare fuori

What would you recommend?...........Cosa consiglia?We are ready to order...........................Possiamo ordinare.I would like _____ and then place your order.....Vorrei…. (Vor-raye)~ una pizza margherita per favore… I would like to drink............................Da bereWhere is the bathroom?.......................Dove il bagno? How much does it cost?.......................Quanta Costa?The bill, please.......................................Il conto per favore.

Il cornetto ~ Italian croissant. Ciambella ~ donut. Un panino ~ a sandwich. Café ~ espresso.Café macchiato ~ espresso with some milk. Café Americano ~ coffee.Cappucino ~ espresso with steamed milk (not normally con-sumed after noon).Succo di frutta….arancia, limone… ~ Orange juice, lemon-ade… Lo bevi qui? ~ Will you drink at the bar? (Sometimes this is cheaper).

Crash Course: Basic Phrases for Eating Out

Il Bar: DrinksBirra ~ Beer. Birra alla spina ~

Beer on tap. Vino ~ Wine. Cocktail ~ Cocktails.

“Un bicchiere di” ~ “A glass of ” or

Shots ~ Shots (Rum e Pera is the recommended shot,

Rum and pear juice).

Pizzeria/Tavola calda:

Un pezzo di pizza ~ a piece/slice of pizza. Più/Meno ~ more/less.

Questo ~ this one (Don’t forget to point). Qui ~ here.

Da portare via ~ Take out. Un kilo di pasta… mezzo kilo di insalata ~ a kilogram of pasta…half a kilogram

of salad.

Ristorante/Osteria/Trattoria:

Cameriere ~ waiterCarne ~ meat Pollo ~ chicken. Manzo ~ beef. Bistecca ~ steak. Vitello ~ veal. Maiale ~ pork. Pesce

~ fish. Verdura ~ vegetables.

Posso avere una forchetta, un coltello, un cucchiaio, un piatto,

un tovagliolo? ~ Can I have a fork, knife, spoon, plate, napkin?

Deciding What to Ordereat like

a pro

This list of classic Roman dishes are a must for sampling local cuisine. Italian food varies from region to region, each claiming

their own pastas and pasta dishes. Rome is no exception. On your trip, be sure to order some

of these classic dishes!

Fiori di zucca:Large zucchini flowers, deep fried and stuffed with mozzarella cheese and anchovies. Often served as an antipasti, or appetizer.

Suppli:Think deep fried rice balls. Originally a recipe to use up left-over risotto, Suppli are Breadcrumbed cro-quettes made from rice in tomato sauce, stuffed with mozzarella cheese.

Pasta alla Carbonara:This primi course is a must. Spaghetti served in a sauce made from eggs, “guanciale”( bacon from pig’s cheek), black pepper and pecorino

cheese. Blissful eating!

Pizza alla Romana: Romans are proud of their pizza. Think thin crusts, crunchy white pizzas, simply brushed with olive oil and a bit of whole rosemary.

Pasta cacio e pepe: This simple dish has Rome written all over it. The pasta comes in a creamy blend of olive oil, pecorino cheese and black pepper sauce.

Trippa alla Romana: Not on most touristy menus, but adventur-ous and tasty enough to give a shot. Tender tripe is served in creamy, hot tomato sauce, served

with greated pecorino cheese

Saltimbocca alla Romana: Another simple (and salty!) dish, thin pieces of veal are pounded and cooked with white wine, sage and prosciutto. Delicious.

Ciambelle al vino:Wine comes with dessert made for dip-ping. Think biscotti for vino. These hard cookies come in the shape of doughnuts, and are dipped in wine at the meal’s end.

When traveling to Rome, the naive tour-

ist can be tricked into consuming American-ized dishes hidden be-

hind Italian associations or stereotypes. In order

to avoid confusion, here is a list of the top ten

dishes to avoid while in Italy.

Top Ten Italian-

American Dishes:

Fettuccini AlfredoChicken

Parmesan Spaghetti and

Meatballs

Pepperoni PizzaPasta PrimaveraItalian Wedding

SoupCesar Salad

Chicken PizzaHawaiian PizzaSalad with “Ital-

ian Dressing”

Get Thelocal

perspective

I think that tourists are fundamental for the good of the country. It is also good to see the streets filled with people of other nationalities who want to make a contact with culture, history and customs different from their own. -Flora Scionti

In my opinion tourism represents a very important experience, whether you travel becuase you can, for cuiosity, or for pleasure. In any case, the most im-portant aspect is discovering elements of different cultures and lifestyles. Cooking may be one of the most important ways to find out more about dif-ferent people because visitors interact directly with their hosts! But being aware and knowledgeable as a tourist is also important, capable of making good choices and becoming an “undercover tourist”! -Lucia Palaia

We heard from three residents of Rome on their

thoughts on tourism in the Ancient City. Want to know what the Romans think?

Read their words -- they may just surpsie you!

Get Thelocal

perspective

Check out these Romans absolute favorite restaurants

for a night On the Town!

Retrò is a pizzeria, grill and wine cellar hidden in an alley in Viale Marconi. In the summer you can eat outside in their large gardens. It is called Retrò because it is located in the back of the famous Viale Marconi.Pizza is their main specialty, but they have others such as ciambella. Dolce is a welcoming place. It is situated in Via Tripoli-tania. When you enter Dolce, the bakery where they make their sweets is visible on the left so you can watch them make the pastries. The unique thing about this restaurant is that you order your sweets first, and then eat the rest of your meal afterwards. The desserts there are fabulous., such as New York Cheesecake and millefoglie with white choco-late, prepared with great care.

Il Focolare is a typical and historical restaurant of Rome, located in the neighbourhood of Monteverde, a short walk from Gianicolo. It offers traditional cooking with meat and fish cooked in tasty ways. The pizza is cooked in the wood stove, so there is somthing for everyone at Il Focolare. For dessert, the hot “zabaione” is their specialty, and it is pre-pared and served right in front of the customer!The restaurant is made up of a spacious room, divided in two halls. In the summer there is a really

pleasant open space. Il Focolare is a family-owned business, so they offer high quality food at a great price.The service at the restaurant is courteous and efficient.

The first impression of Almacri is of a rustic, nice and welcoming room. They offer many well-prepared, delicious, huge dishes (various appetizers, pizza, main courses, fried fishes and meat). The service is fast and the price reflects the quality and the taste of what they served! In addition the staff is really young, quick and fun. This restaurant is an ideal place to spend an evening with friends

Check Out OurRestaurant

guide

Not indulging in authentic Roman dishes while dining in Rome is sacrilige for both the undercover tourist and

foodie. Finding authentic Roman food in Rome can be dif-ficult for the average tourist as many modern restaurants now mix cuisines and flavors from around the world. To avoid cuisine confusion, here is a list of restaurants cur-

rently dedicating their menus to authentic Roman dishes.

Dar Filettaro – Puoi sederti o portare via. La specialità è il baccalà.

Largo dei Librai – Orario: Lun – Sab, 18.30 – 23.30. Raccomandiamo il baccalà (€5) e l’insalata di cicoria (€5)

Amando al PantheonOrario: pranzo e cena Lun-Ven, Sab solo pran-zo.Chiuso in Agosto.

Raccomandiamo: cacio e pepe, ossobuco con piselli e funghi

Da Remo – Orario: sempre aperto. Racco-mandiamo: pizza, supplì e olive ascolane.

Pasticceria “Boccione” Limentani

Dolci kasher e ebraico-romaneschi. Orario: sempre aperto, però è preferibile venire di mattina o verso le 15.00. Raccomandiamo: biscot-ti alla mandorla, pizza ebraica (pane dolce e pesante con frutta secca e noci)

Tucked away from the touristic areas of Rome, just a few tram stops beyond Termini station is the Pigneto neighborhood.

Pigneto is Rome’s latest “chic” area for young alternative profes-sionals, artists, and musicians. This once predominately Com-munist-working class neighborhood is booming with new gas-

tronomic gems- restaurants, cafes, and gelaterias- serving food at a fraction of the cost of traditional restaurants in Rome’s touristic

areas. Tips:This neighborhood takes siesta each day, in order to experience the area at its best one should arrange to visit after 4:30pm or before 1:30pm for the fruit and vegetable market on Via del Pigneto

Bar Necci - (Italianhttp://www.necci1924.com/Via Fanfulla da Lodi 68Tel: +39 06 97601552.Hours: 8am until late Recommendations: Polpette di melanzane con sugo di pomodoro e verdurine (€8), Lenticchie di Castelluccio con gamberi e radicchio tardivo avvolto con pancetta €14,00,

Tiger Tandoori (Indian, Thali Style)http://www.tigertandoori.com/Via del Pigneto 193TEL: 39 06 97610172Hours: Monday Thru Fri-day 18:30-1:00, Sat and Sun 12:30-16:00, 18:30-1:00Recommendations: Naan (€1), Goa Fish Curry (€7)

Mesob (Ethiopian)http://en.mesob.it/menu/

Via Prenestina 118TEL: 39 338 251 1621Hours: Tuesday-Sunday for dinnerRecommendations: Kategna, Sambusa, Felafel (all below €3), Nece Tibs and Vegetar-ian Combo Platter (About €12 each)

i PorchettoniVia del Pigneto 68 – RomeTEL: +39 3888723723Hours: Lunch and DinnerRecommendations: porchet-ta, cacio e pepe, chicory (All below €8)

La Gelateria del Pignetovia Pesaro, 11 - 00176 RomaTEL: 06 70613680 Closed MondaysRecommendations: Pine Nut and Cinnamon gelato flavors, melon “smiley face” popsicles (all below €3)

Roughly 253,000 Romans are of non Italian descent, representing 9.5 % of the population. Approxi-mately 4.7 % of the immigrant population is of European origin, hailing from Romania, Poland, Ukrainian and Albanian. The remaining 4.8 % of ethnic minori-ties in Rome are of non European origin, chiefly Filipinos (26,933), Bangladeshis (12,154), Peruvians (10,530), and Chinese (10,283). The significant middle eastern and north African communities in Rome should also be noted. Italy has always had a large Ethio-pian populations due to its colo-nial exploits in that country.

Given Rome’s large immigrant population one would assume finding authentic ethnic cuisine would be a breeze; unfortunately this is not the case. Like most Italians, Romans are food puri-tans and have a hard time branch-ing into to the culinary practices of their neighbouring states. The prospect of fully embracing an entirely foreign food culture is problematic. The majority of “ethnic” food in Rome consists of Chinese run sushi joints, Itali-fied kebab spots, and Bangladeshi “Indian” restaurants.

This being said, one may question if the search for true ethnic food in Rome is a worthy cause for the undercover tourist. Rome is after all an epicenter for discovering amazing Italian food. However, after weeks of sampling carbo-hydrate rich dishes along with masses of cheese and cured meats many tourists may find them-selves in need of reprieve. Rather than binging on the omnipresent McDonalds burger ethnic food can serve as a prime alternative.

Exploring Ethnic Food in Rome’s Esquilino District

The tides are changing for ethnic food in Rome. There is increasing demand from immigrants, tour-ists as well as from the younger more adventurous foodie genera-tion.

This section focuses on ethnic restaurants in Esquilino and Pigneto, arguably Rome’s most multicultural neighbourhoods.

The Esquilino district surround-ing Termini Station is Rome’s largest immigrant district and is often referred to as Rome’s China-town. The district houses immi-grants from over 100 countries,

of Esquilino’s 1300 commercial premises 800 are Chinese-owned, 300 are run by immigrants from other countries and 200 are Ital-ian owned. Piazza Vittorio is the centre of this district and can be reached disembarking metro line A at stop Vittorio Emanuele which exits right onto the square. The Piazza Vittorio market is located inside a former milk plant just east of the piazza and houses a multicultural array of cheap and exotic foods from around the globe. The district is also home to a plethora of authentic ethnic restaurants.

Hua Qiao (Chinese)Via Giovanni Giolitti 189; Tel: 39-06-446-8356A local favorite gaining in popularity amongst Romans although the clientele remains mostly Chinese. Hua Qiao spe-cializes in elaborate sea-food dishes like jellyfish, served with flat green beans. Prices are on the higher end but worth it. Hang Zhou Via Principe Eugenio 82, 

Tel: 39 064872732Extensive traditional menu. Very popular and a little on the fancy/pricey side. Biwon (Korean)Via Conte Verde, 62Tel:06-445-7605closed WedA gogi gui style restau-rant where diners cook marinated meat and seafood using grills in the centre of the table.Himalaya's Kashmir (Indian/Pakastani)

Via Principe Amedeo 325-327Tel: +39 6 446 1072One of the first Indian restaurants in Rome. Specializes in North In-dian and South Pakistani cuisine. Two set menus (vegetarian and non-vegetarian) are offered and consist of dishes like Cheese Rissoles and Butter Chicken. There is also an extensive à la carte menu. Great value.