Mount Toubkal – A Short Trek by

Jayant Doshi

(from 30th September 2012 to 5th October 2012.)

I read the email and my first reaction was that “I must do this – I have to go.” Three days trek seemed very short compared to my other treks I have done, but a chance to do another trek and to raise funds for a charity were good enough reasons for me to say “yes” immediately.

I left home before 3.00 a.m. (soon after midnight) to catch our flight from Gatwick to Marrakech. I had already met seven of the nine participants in practice walk a month early – and I had done two treks before with some of them. Our group of nine was a medley of different ages and professions. Out of nine, three were ladies. Age

wise, two had just crossed 30, rest, with exception of two, were in the 45 to 55 age range, while one had just crossed that range and myself. The group had one solicitor, one barrister and part-time judge, two pharmacists, one dentist, one financial adviser, one mechanic and a good cook, a reporter cum journalist and a retired businessman.

The trek was in Morocco on the Atlas range of mountains, and specifically to conquer the highest peak called Mount

Toubkal. Morocco is a desert area with very little greenery and this was reflected on the mountains. Unlike Nepal and Everest area, there are no local people living on the route. The mountains looked barren, and surface dry and dry soil covered the surface of the mountain. In Himalayas I would take hundreds of photos of lovely scenery. While here the scenery was picturesque -it was not comparable.

We managed to take some sleep in our three hour flight. Our hotel or “Riad” was in the old town of Marrakech – traditional type of Moroccan house which was converted into a simple but very comfortable and pleasant place of residence for us. We were served with breakfast in the terrace. After late breakfast we walked around the old town and the square which was buzzing with activity- from fruit juices to food, from

snake charmers to palmists, and with thousands of local people and tourists the square was alive with life.

Next morning we embarked on our trek after breakfast. We were driven to the village of Imli where we were served with tea. We started our trek at 11.20. Morocco is a desert area and this was reflected by the terrain on the mountain. All houses were in sandstone colour – whether this was to camouflage in the surroundings or because it was more convenient and economical is something I am not sure of. On our trek, there was

very little greenery to see. Our path was covered with either huge rocks, stones, pebbles, dust and balls of dust. It made walking bit tricky as the loose soil and rubble moved with the steps. We started from Imli at 1750 metres, climbed up to 2469 metres and then came down to 2300 metres for our overnight accommodation. At times we faced some steep climbs and coming down in loose soil was tricky as one could slip easily. The sky was clear and the sun was on us for the whole day. It was hot and my shirt and vest were drenched in the sweat.

Our overnight accommodation was a wooden building with some rooms, and each room had many bunk beds. Luckily we were all in one room with no one else to share with or worry about – making our talking and snoring less irritable to outsiders. I did not sleep too well – may be because I was too tired or I could not adjust to the environment. There was hot water shower available at a cost, and the water came out in a trickle, but it was still nice to have a shower –especially after walking in the sun and the body drenched in sweat.

We woke early, had our breakfast and left for our trek soon after 7.00. We had been warned – today was going to be a long and difficult trekking day. We started at 2300

metres and were to climb a mountain with a steep slope that would take us to 3600 metres, and then we would come down to 3200 metres to our overnight accommodation.

Climbing up a mountain slope and covering almost 1300 metres in height in one day was difficult. The slope must have a 60 to 70 degree gradient. To make the climb easier the treks take a

zigzag shape across the slope to reduce the intensity of the slope and the gradient. We were told by the guide that he had counted and was certain about it that there were 89 such loops on the slope. For the young and fit this did not pose much problem. But with less ability to store oxygen in my system I faced huffing and puffing in my breathing as I climbed up the mountain - and I had to stop more often to fill up my lungs. Shilpan was facing similar problem and we kept each other company. At the end of every loop, and at times even before, we had to stop to recover our breath. But we kept plodding and ultimately made to our overnight accommodation. I was tired but I did not have any pains and aches which was encouraging. Nor did I face any knee or ankle pain - which was a relief. But I did feel tired after long day of difficult walking – and perhaps that gave me sound sleep.

Like the previous night, we were in a wooden house with lots of bunk beds and today also no one else was sharing with us. Our toilets were filthy and doors could not be

closed or locked. The hotel had another building which had showers and better toilet facilities which we were allowed to use. However it was inconvenient to go to the other building at night in the dark and the cold. I slept well this day though I had to wake up once to use the toilet.

The group had jelled well in spite of the age differences. Evenings were spent talking and laughing and overall the six day trip was great fun. During our six days

together, during our spare time in hotels, during our meal times and during walk about in the town, conversation flowed as if we had known each other for years. Jokes and laughter was common and overall enjoyment was great.

Next day was going to be long. We were to get up and be ready by 5.00 a.m. and after breakfast we were to leave by 6.00. Two of the party had decided that it was too difficult and they were not going to even attempt the walk. Just the fact that in one day we were to walk up to 4167 metres from 3200 metres start point, and come down not only to our Tuesday night camp site, nor to Monday night campsite but right up to our start point of Imli and

then drive to Marrakech on the same day, was a scary thought for those not that fit or experienced in such trekking. We were to walk up 900 metres and walk down 2500 metres – and that within time constraint. We had to be in Imli before dusk so that we can be driven on to Marrakech. Everyone was well wrapped in the cold temperatures but I knew that after little walking we would be warm so I put on the minimum to contain the cold. The start of the walk was on plain path which slowly led up to the start of the mountain. Once we started the climb up the steep surface it became clear it was not going to be easy. The surface of the mountain was scattered with large and small rocks, stones, pebbles, small mud balls, loose gravel and soil and icy patches. We had to use our hands at times to push the body up a steep and rocky patch. Three guys and one lady had moved up fast and had disappeared from our sights. But i together with two ladies struggled but kept going up slowly.

Very soon we started seeing patches of snow and it felt that the snow will not bother us much as it was old and in patches – and perhaps we could go around it. But we were proven wrong. Soon we were walking on those snow patches – and being there for a few days snow had turned to slush or ice and made walking difficult. Our shoes kept slipping on such surface. My walking sticks helped me a lot to maintain balance and to lift my body up. I was with two ladies – Daksha and the young

Gurpreet. After about three hours of walking Daksha decided that she could not carry on any further and announced that she was going back. The chief guide had gone with the other four. We had one guide and one cook with us. So the cook turned back with Daksha. Hardly had Daksha gone, and while still in our sight, Gurpreet decided to turn back. We were going up snowy patches and it was getting difficult. And soon we found out that going down the slope was going to be more difficult.

Gurpreet found it difficult to walk down the slippery slope covered with snow. She slipped and almost fell or lost balance, and the guide decided to carry her over the tricky patch. The guide had asked the cook to wait for Gurpreet. Daksha and

Gurpreet started walking back to our hotel while the guide came back to join me. Gurpreet at some point twisted her ankle. The guide started convincing me, almost persuading me, to turn back. He said we did not have time and I am walking too slowly to carry on to the top. But I was determined this time that I will not give up that easily. I gave my rucksack to the guide and started walking. I kept going up. I could see the rim of the mountain we were climbing – it appeared near but walking up was not. The gradient must have been around 70 degree and this time there was no zigzag

walking to ease the slope. The guide kept telling me to turn back and I kept saying that I will turn back once we reach the rim. At around 11.00, after almost 5 hours of walking, I was there. I was informed that I had climbed from 3200 metres to 4025 metres and only (though very tough) only 142 metres to climb to reach the peak of Mount Toubkal. At that point I saw the group of four who had gone up coming down.

Physically I could have completed that I was sure of but time wise I would have struggled. For my sake other eight would have to wait at Imli or make alternate arrangements. It was very unlikely that I would have gone up and down to Imli before sunset. Had I given some thought to this earlier I could have spent one extra night and completed my trek to the top of Mount Toubkal. But now it was too late to think of that. I was disappointed but I decided to turn back from that point. Ever since I broke my wrist by slipping and falling, I had that inherent fear of slipping. And walking down stones, rocks, gravel, dry soil,mud balls and snow was not easier. The guide kept holding my hand as and when it got difficult. I went on my bums or hands when going got difficult. When I put my boots on the loose rubble and tiny stones the boots just

sank in, the rubble gave way and I would feel that I was about to slip. Even then I must have slipped and lost balance at least ten times. I controlled myself with the help of the walking sticks. But I slipped badly three times going flat on the ground. The last time I could hear the thud of my head hitting the snow and felt my back touching the ground. Even

the guide looked in awe when he heard the thud. Luckily, I did not injure myself and was on my feet in no time.

I kept going slowly and steadily – not stopping to rest. When the difficult part was completed we could see our hotel. It seemed at stone’s throw away but it was long way and we kept walking till 1.30 when I reached our hotel. Everyone was having lunch and I joined in. I was tired and needed to rest. But everyone was ready to move. I was given half an hour to rest which was not enough but I had no choice. I had no pains or aches but my body could feel tiredness through the bones. I was asked to get ready in less than half an hour. We started walking. My legs and body seemed to resist and almost refused to walk. I had no choice but to walk but I knew I will be far

behind. Just at that point the guide asked me if I would like to hire a mule. I told him that let me walk now and we will see later. Soon after that conversation an empty mule came towards us and the guide suggested that I take it as we might not get another later on.

I got on the mule. It was a different experience. But the mule coming down the slope, taking sharp turns, jumping with both legs from rocks and coming down sharp slope were scary situations.

Once I literally came off the saddle. Thighs kept getting cramps. But my legs got the rest, and I was able to keep up with others. We reached Imli just when it was getting dark. We drove to Marrakech and were in our hotel where dinner was ready for us prepared by Shilpan.

My 9th and one of the shortest, but not easiest, trek has given me the confidence that I could possibly do some more. I would have been much happier if I had completed the trek but I must not complain. I did not have any pains or aches, nor any stiff muscles or pain in the calf muscles, no knee or ankle or joint pains. Whether I will do another trek or not, I at least will have the satisfaction that I can still do all this walking at my age. In spite of the age difference rest of the group welcomed me and gave me

respect and accepted me as one of them. I could not have gone on a trip with a nicer group of people.

(for comments write to jubhai@aol.com and for other reports and photos go to www.jayantdoshi.yolasite.com.)