HERITAGE CONSULTANT· HISTORICAL ARCHAEOLOGIST

LEICHHARDT HERITAGE STUDY

THEMATIC HISTORY

WENDYTHORP. HERITAGE CONSULTANT· HISTORICAL ARCHAEOLOGIST. 17 Lansdowne Street, Eastwood, NSW 2122 Tel. (02) 8584336

municipality. It is historical directions used to places items in a context.

1.3 Constraints

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meant to highlight major and initiatives which may be of environmental significance

The time allowed for this study, in common with all heritage studies, precludes an intensive or extensive search of primary records. The historical discussion is generally based on secondary sources although considerable effort has been made to consult primary references both to validate the conclusions of secondary sources as well as to explore contemporary evidence for the development of the themes.

The major constraint in defining themes and identifying historic trends in Leichhardt has been the lack of documentary evidence in certain areas, particularly for subjects such as resident perceptions of their own locality as opposed to "outsiders" views and the influence of, for example, speculative building in some areas of the municipality. If the documentary evidence for these aspects does exist it will require more intensive research than this examination will allow.

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2.0 HISTORIC THEMES

Leichhardt Municipality incorporates eight inner city suburbs; Balmain, Birchgrove, Rozelle, Lilyfield, Leichhardt, Annandale, Forest Lodge and Glebe. Each deserves a history of its own. They have been individually shaped and developed by historical trends and events unique to themselves. Balmain is quite different to Annandale, Glebe quite different to Rozelle.

However, while it is impossible to write a single history that will adequately and exactly define the development of each suburb, certain themes may be extracted from the wealth of documentary evidence available for this area which provide paths 'which may be followed to reveal the complex and rich identity of this inner city area.

Certain themes are more applicable to some areas than others. This is unavoidable. Collectively, though, they help to provide an understanding of the development of the municipality as a single unit.

Four primary historic study area. Each have a primary themes are:

themes have number of

been defined for the secondary themes. The

water and Land - The Influence of Topography and Geography

City Living - The Growth of Urban Settlement

Working Class Suburbs - The Role of Industry

A Sense of Community - The Development of Local Government and Suburban Identities.

These themes, and the secondary themes which amplify the primary themes, are presented in the following sections.

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2.1 Water and Land - The Influence of Topography and Geography

The original topography and later changes made to it have greatly influenced the development and use of the study area. The geographical relationship of this area to the city of Sydney is particularly important in understanding the growth of Leichhardt. The development of transport systems to exploit this relationship has been a fundamental element in the expansion of the communities and built environment. Aesthetic qualities, also, have influenced the development and character of Leichhardt.

2.1.1 Geological and Topographic Features

The early settlement of the study area was both favoured and hampered by a number of geological and topographic factors. The uncompromising terrain actively discouraged settlement for some time;

"When Governor Phillip landed in Sydney Cove ... the party explored a bold peninsula with a rock bound coastline and in an areas just a mile square. This peninsula ... was covered with a dense tea tree scrub through which the gum trees struggled for an existence. The rocky coastline was lined with brambles and native currants but for farming the land was regarded as utterly useless. Indeed nobody would look at it with favour for settlement purposes and it was quickly discarded but an idea struck the early settlers that this would make an admirable trap for kangaroos ... many a fine kangaroo thus fell where the School of Arts and the Methodist Church of Balmain now stand." (1)

Once established, though, the presence of shale soils made for possible cropping and pastures. In addition, a variety of natural resources lent themselves to assisting early settlement; clay deposits were available for brick making, stone and timber for building. The availability of fresh water from a number of creeks ensured the success of settlement and enabled industrial ventures to be initiated.

As time progressed and concerns other than agrarian came to the fore the natural features of the study area began to appear desirable. The earliest sale notices for land in the area stress the advantages of the natural features for development. "Snug" bays could be formed into dockyards and the extensive waterside frontages would allow an owner

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to "moor his inward and outward bound ships" (2).

In particular the physical relationship to Sydney was stressed;

"Balmain is a peninsula; on three sides it is bound by water ... Its east or rather N.E. portion consists of three smaller peninsulas lying respectively between Johnston's Bay and Waterview Bay, Waterview Bay and Snails Bay, and Snails. Bay and the entrance to the Parramatta River. It is the first of these three divisions that the bulk of the population is to be found. This is much more extensive than either of the other two, is more accessible from Sydney and is the part where settlement first took place." (3)

Glebe, too, favoured early settlement because of its relationship and access the city;

"Glebe is a suburban municipality adjoining the city of Sydney, situated on a tongue of land lying between Blackwattle Cove and Rozelle Bay. It is a populous suburb and a favourite place of residence for merchants and others having business in town." (4)

The first subdivision notices for Leichhardt noted;

"Its contiguosness to the town of Sydney is known to everyone; turning off at the Wool pack Inn you are presently on the estate and the numerous gentlemen's seats and residences of influential persons connected in daily occupations with Sydney shows at once that it is a neighbourhood not only of choice but popular enquiry." (5)

Topography continued to be an influential force in the later settlement of the area. For example, the ridges which ran through portions of the study area provided an elevated position and good drainage which was conducive to more exclusive forms of housing. Swampy areas evolved a different type of settlement. Jevons noted this distinction in his mid nineteenth century social survey of Sydney where social distinction was defined by the relative elevation of the house,

"The suburban professionals,

first class chief

(gentlemen, employees)

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districts follow somewhat the trend of the high land and are generally very distinctly separated from the lowest class residences. A large proportion of the first class residences are country villas or mansions situated quite beyond the limits of the town.

"Second class residences (mechanics, skilled artisans) are more numerous and equally diffused but are most thickly placed in the intermediate districts at a short distance from the central part of the town. Thus ... Glebe ... and Balmain form the principal second class resident districts of Sydney.

" Third class residences (labourers and lower orders) collect about a few district centres or form a part of the town peculiar to themselves, generally in the lowest or least desirable localities." (6)

Even as late as 1966 the importance of the relationship of the city to the municipality was recognized, or perhaps rediscovered, as a positive asset in the development of the area. New housing developments were encouraged and these,

"bring the realization of fact that Balmain is close to the City and that travel to the city is quicker and cheaper than many outlying areas." (7)

The large portion of the study area which fronts onto the harbour and river encouraged the development of water borne transport to the area as well as influencing the location of industry. This in turn has been critical in the establishment and evolution of settlement and has influenced the character or quality for which some areas are famous.

Man made changes to the topography have contributed greatly to the environment of the study area. Significant reclamation projects were carried out during the later nineteenth century often resulting in the provision of public recreation areas. For example, reclamation at Birchgrove during the 1880s resulted in Birchgrove Park; Wentworth Park was reclaimed from the bay. Federal and Jubilee Parks were mud flats which were filled with sand from the Bay.

The relationship of the study area to the city allied with the provision of reliable transport was crucial to the

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development and expansion of urban society. Hence the combination of geology, topography, geography and aesthetic qualities have proven to be the foundations upon which the structure of society could be built.

2.1.2 Transportation

Transportation, the availability of or otherwise, has been the key to the expansion of Leichhardt. Balmain and Glebe developed ahead of other suburbs Wl~nln ~ne municipality because they had access to transportation earlier than other areas, specifically water borne forms.

"Experience taught them that the growth of the district was retarded by the want of means of communication with Sydney and the only way the early settlers near the Point could reach the city was by pulling themselves ... across in their own boats. The more wealthy of the residents living in the direction of Iron Cove Creek and Leichhardt kept carriages and travelled by way of the Parramatta Road but in those days there were no roads from Balmain proper only a few cattle tracks." (8)

As early as 1841 land speculators stressed the importance of transport in their sale notices;

"The daily increase of ferry boats successfully plying and in constant demand, shews that there is rising connexion and mutual benefit rapidly taking place between both places (Balmain and Sydney). Ten minutes only are taken up in passing to and fro ... " (9 )

contemporary commentators stressed the availability of transport and access to the city;

"Glebe lies to the north-west of Sydney, and is reached either by the main road (Parramatta-street) or by a bridge which crosses the Blackwattle Swamp and which, with the pyrmont Bridge, affords communication with the very heart of the city ... Communication with the city may be had by bus every 5 minutes." (10)

Water transport is the key to earliest settlement and ferries were one of the most significant elements of this form of transport. Even by the later years of the

nineteenth quick and

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century these provided the most efficient, reliable mans of reaching Leichhardt.

The Balmain ferry service began uncertainly in 1840 with a small steamer that ran only on Sundays and holidays to bring picnic parties to the area. As the population increased more reliable services were sought. In 1842 a combine started a service to Balmain but soon an opposition company, Marshall and Entwhistle, started up with a steamer called the "Gypsy Queen". The company purchased other steamers and extended the line. A second service was provided to the Jubilee Dock.

In 1853 a Mr Perdriau bought out the entire opposition. At first the services ran only two or three times a day and only when a full complement could be mustered. The ferry service became more regular as the increasing population demanded a more reliable service. From the 1860s steamboats captured a share of the lucrative market. In the 1880s double ended paddle steamers conveyed people to and from Glebe and Balmain.

In 1882 Perdriau sold his company to the Balmain Steam Ferry Company and in 1885 the company purchased another line thereby creating a monopoly. Fares were high and several attempts were made to start an opposition line but all failed until 1892 when, as a result of popular movement in Balmain, the residents started a co-operative service with lower prices. This was successful and, in 1900, the Balmain New Ferry Company purchased the whole plant and property of the old line. The new company, with better ships, extended its services to the Lane Cove River (9). Annandale also had a private ferry service operating from the bottom of Johnstone street during the latter years of the nineteenth century.

Land locked areas such as Leichhardt depended on land based transport. The development of major arterial roads such as Parramatta, Darling and Glebe Point Roads were major factors in urban expansion. Population growth has been directly proportional to the availability of transport and access to the city.

Initially dependent on individual means to get to the oity as settlement grew there was a need to develop more reliable public road transport. By 1866 municipal government had taken the first steps to ease the situation;

"The benefits of the municipal system are marked in Balmain; for previous to its introduction the roads and approaches were, without exception, far more picturesque than practicable. Now, however, in almost every direction well

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constructed roads have been formed and kept in such good repair to merit the admiration of visitors and the gratitude of those whose lot it was to be compelled to stumble through them in their primitive state." (12)

The first systematic attempts at road transport were organized by residents. For example, a privately owned line of omnibuses was established between Glebe and the city in the middle of the nineteenth century. A variety of other services followed but until fares dropped in the 1880s it was still a reasonably exclusive means of transportation.

However, even by 1872 the land communication with Balmain was said to be a "rather circuitous route" (13). In the same year the Sydney Tramway and Omnibus Company was founded and tram lines were supplied to Annandale in 1883 and a steam tram ran to Balmain by 1884. Glebe was more fortunate in having bridges across Blackwattle Swamp and Pyrmont. The first bridge from pyrmont to Glebe Island was constructed in 1857. This provided major lines of communication with the city. The subdivision of Leichhardt from the 1860s onwards caused the need for more streets and roads to be formed to service the rapidly developing new suburb.

By the end of the nineteenth century most areas in the municipality were serviced by a variety of transport. In 1890 Annandale could be reached by taking a train to Stanmore or a ferry to Rozelle Bay. Balmain was primarily serviced by ferries as well as the steam trams to Balmain west. Forest Lodge could be reached by tram or bus and Glebe likewise. Leichhardt was serviced by tram or a steamer (14).

In 1900 the trams to Ba1main were duplicated and in 1902 the service was electrified. By 1909, however, improved communication with these suburbs was recognized as a necessity. A Royal Commission into the improvement of Sydney in that year made various recommendations to bring this about including the construction of a rail line to meet the needs of Ba1main, Leichhardt and adjoining suburbs. This was to branch off from the pyrmont loop. A tunnel between Millers Point and Ba1main was also suggested as well as various trams routes (15). Nothing came of this investigation.

It became one of a number of enquiries made during the later nineteenth century into the provision of, particularly rail, services to the area to improve communications. For example, Birchgrove did not acquire trams until 1917. During the 1880s there had been schemes made and routes planned to take a railway to Long Nose

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Point as well as connect Balmain to the general transport systems but nothing came of these. The only rail service that ever came to the area was a goods rail system which runs under Glebe.

In 1906 meetings were held to discuss the possibility of a bridge crossing from Long Nose Point to Greenwich. These plans were thought to have no merit.

The problems of transportation in this area have been addressed during the later years of the twentieth century underlining the still critical role this aspect has in the development of Leichhardt. Various freeway extensions have been planned, and objected to, through Annandale, Balmain and Glebe. A second harbour crossing was proposed in 1982 that was to go through Birchgrove. This was defeated through resident action.

The importance of the availability of transportation to the development of the area is underlined by the growth of Rozelle which began because of the presence of a post office but surged ahead because of its access to tram lines to the city;

flOWing to the formation of Balmain ... it has been found necessary to provide a post office at each end to meet the convenience of the business people. Around this office has grown a business centre, young vigorous and thriving with a tendency to be self assertive on account of the position they occupy. At this pOint the tramline branches off to Drummoyne so that the residents in that part of Balmain have the benefit of two lines and this has caused Rozelle to come very rapidly to the front and made it a very popular business centre ... " (16)

be seen to have their rate of to community

nineteenth and

Thus the availability of transport can influenced the development of suburbs, expansion, population growth and led awareness of their environment in both the twentieth centuries.

2.1.3 Aesthetic Qualities

The picturesque qualities of the area, particularly those produced by water views, have long influenced the appreciation and choice of settlement in this area. Early sale notices refer to "marine allotments" (17) implying certain qualities inherent in the land. During the middle years of the nineteenth century people were attracted to

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the area, it was said, because of healthiness and agreeable scenery" commentators recognized these qualities as in the development of the area;

its "proverbial (18). Later

being important

"From its picturesque location Ba1main has long been a favourite residence with the city of Sydney." (19)

Land sales in Glebe capitalized on advertising land with "extensive drainage" and "hea1thy sites" (20). The was advertised by appealing to aesthetic

these qualities views", "perfect Birchgrove estate qualities;

" The invigorating spot of the harbour, which for beauty, is absolute perfection... There is something romantic in the charms surrounding this locality ... its pure atmosphere (freedom from dust), its velvet lawn sloping to the tranquil bay; its ornamental villas ... From it there is a commanding view of the harbour with all the headlands and bays to the north and east ... and to the south the very beautiful scenery in the long reaches of Iron Cove ... with the Parramatta River winding its course until lost in the deep shadows topped by the mountains in the azure distance ... " (21)

Even during the early years of the twentieth century, when areas such as Balmain and Glebe were despised as slums, there were commentators who still recognized the attractive qualities inherent in the landscape, both natural and built;

"It is one of the healthiest and most beautifully situated of any (suburb) near Sydney ... there are many charming spots along the water's edge where, far removed from the sights and sounds of the dockyards, pretty houses nestle in delightful gardens ... " (22)

"The exquisite water views, the quaint waterways, the characteristic houses nestling in old established gardens, the busy shipping the sudden alterations of crowded city life with green cliff covered with the original bush ... " (23)

The introduction of new populations to the area during the later decades of the twentieth century resulted in a fresh appreciation of the qualities of the inner city

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particularly with respect to the built environment.

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Footnotes to Section 2.1

1 Progress of the Suburbs Balmain 5MB 21.3.1914 2. Sale notices 5MB 30.5.1840, 11.5.1840 3. Bai11iere NSW Gazetteer 1866., 20 4. Ibid., 223 5 Leichhardt Municipal Council Jubilee History of

Leichhardt 1871 - 1921., 30 6. Jevons quoted in "A Social Survey 5MB 30 Nov. 1929.,

13 7. Annual Reports Health and Building Section Leichhardt

Municipal Council., 1966 8. Progress of the Suburbs, Balmain 5MB 21.3.1914 9. Sale notice 5MB 3.5.1841 10 Bailliere NSW Gazetteer 1866., 223 11. Progress of the Suburbs Balmain 5MB 21.3.1914 12. Bailliere NSW Gazetteer 1866., 21 13. Australian Handbook 1872., 72 14. Aarons Exchange Hotel Tourists Handbook to Sydney and

Suburbs., 36-38 15. Report of the Royal Commission for the Improvement of

the City of Sydney 1909., xxxi, xxxiii 16. Souvenir to Commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the

Incorporation of the Municipality of Ba1main 1860-1910., 73

17. Sale notice 5MB 11.5.1840 18. Bailliere NSW Gazetteer 1866., 21 19. Australian Handbook 1872., 72 20 Subdivision Plans (ML) Glebe and Forest Lodge 1907 21. Jeffrey, P. Birchgrove 1796 1985 Leichhardt

Historical Journal No 15 1986., 13 22 "What Will People Think" 5MB 22.6.1910 23 "Beautiful Balmain" SMH 29.6.1910

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2.2 City Living - The Growth of Urban Settlement

The geographical relationship of the study area to the City of Sydney ensured that settlement would be influenced in its development by this urban association. The settlement and development of Leichhardt is one of increasing urbanisation as its location to the city centre was progressively and more intensively exploited.

Settlement of the study area began through a series of land grants. Throughout the nineteenth century these were progressively subdivided and transportation systems, houses and industries were introduced. Gradually a working class identity was established for the area.

Initially a favoured residential area, by the early years of the twentieth century this popularity had declined and the suburbs of the municipality became despised as little more than slums. From the 1960s onwards this process has reversed and a process of gentrification has occurred which is restoring these suburbs to their former favored status.

2.2.1 A Rural Retreat 1790 - c.1840

Settlement in the study area commenced with a number of land grants made between 1790 and 1819. These included two grants in later day Balmain and Birchgrove, five in Lilyfield, six in Leichhardt and one each in Annandale and Glebe. The recipients were a mixture of civilian, military and clergy including the surgeon William Balmain whose 550 acre grant encompassed all the latter day Balmain, Reverend Richard Johnson whose 440 acre grant was set aside for the church as its Glebe and Major George Johnson who gained 290 acres encompassing the present-day Annandale (1).

From the earliest years various attempts were made to settle and develop these properties, with mixed results. By the turn of the nineteenth century these large estates were developed as "country" retreats complete with mansions for their wealthy owners. Annandale House was commenced in 1799 (2) and Birch Grove House in 1810 (3). The distance from Sydney, the lack of reliable transport systems and the variable quality of the land made these areas unattractive to any except the wealthy who had the means of overcoming these shortcomings.

The same pattern emerged in Glebe after the first subdivisions were made in 1828 (4). For example "Hereford House" was constructed in 1829, "Lyndehurst" between 1833-36 and "Toxteth Lodge" in 1834 (5). Similar developments occurred in other parts of the municipality around this time, for example "Austenham House" was built

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on the Austenham grant in Rozelle in House" in Leichhardt in 1834, "Forest "Garryowen" at Rozelle in 1839 (8) and Glebe in 1841 (9).

1835 (6), "Elswick Lodge" in 1836 (7), "Broughton Hall" at

Even by the 1850s a trip to Leichhardt was likened to a day in the country (10) and the construction of mansions continued throughout the nineteenth century. For example the Blackett home, "Bidura", was built at Glebe in 1857 (11). A number of the estates stayed largely intact until the later years of the nineteenth century, for example, the Annandale Estate was not subdivided until the 1870s. Some, through becoming institutionalized, such as Garryowen, remained partially intact into the twentieth century.

However, the character of this construction changed as the increasing subdivision of the various estates, along with improved transportation which provided ready access to the city for a greater number of people, altered the quality and character of the area from a country retreat to a wealthy Sydney suburb.

2.2.2 Subdivision and A Changing Population c. 1840 - 1910

The first subdivision of lands in the study area occurred in Glebe in 1828 and this marks a turning point in the development of Leichhardt. It may be said that this was the first step towards suburbanisation. Certainly it established a different class of people within the area, working class, often juxtaposed against their wealthier neighbours, for example those in the Glebe and Glebe Point.

After the initial grant to the Church of the Glebe unsuccessful attempts had been made to cultivate the land. It was not until the subdivision and sale of twenty eight allotments in 1828 that development took off in the area (12). In 1836 the first allotments were sold in Balmain at Peacock Point (13). The 1840s mark the consolidation of this process; numerous notices appeared in the local papers for property sales in Balmain. They noted that the value of the property in this area was escalating rapidly (14) .

In 1841 the township of Broughton was created out of the Austenham grant. In 1842 the first subdivisions were created in Leichhardt. These were bought virtually by one man, WaIter Beames, who applied the name of Leichhardt to the area and then resubdivided the lots for sale in 1849 under the name of "Leichhardt township" (15). These first subdivisions did not meet with the same success as those in Balmain, most likely because of the uncertainty and difficulty of transport, as well as the effects of a

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severe economic depression during the early years of the 1840s. Many of the sale notices for Balmain note the accessibility to Sydney (16);

"the daily increase in ferry boats successively plying and in constant demand shows that there is a rising connexion and mutual benefit taking place between both places. Ten minutes only are taken up in passing to and fro so that all shipping and building operations can easily be transacted and inspected without interruption to any ordinary town business." (17)

The subdivision of the large estates for smaller urban blocks began to change the profile of the population. Balmain was at the forefront of this trend because of its established industrial presence. Sale notices stressed the value of the area for trades and craftsmen.

"Balmain Point near Messrs Howard and Bells Shipyard and where shipwrights, carpenters, smiths, tailors, shoemakers, brickmakers, quarrymen and labourers etc can earn from eight shillings to fifteen shillings per day. Such is the demand for 'a little bit of land' at this extraordinary rising little Deptford of NSW and where constant, immediate and profitable employment is open to industrious mechanics that the proprietors of some very eligible allotments there (will immediately sell) ." (18)

By 1843 Balmain was said to have risen within two years " from three or four buildings to a large and rapidly increasing village" (19). By 1848 Balmain contained 296 houses with a population of 1337, Glebe had 264 houses with a population of 1055 and Annandale was still described as the property of R. Johnstone (20). Leichhardt was not officially recognized at that time although a parish map of the early 1850s shows some subdivisions in the area of Lilyfield.

By 1850 it was stated that there was an extreme difficulty in obtaining "anything like an eligible site for a building in the neighbourhood of Balmain" (21). The growing industrial character of the area was consolidated by the middle of the century with the construction of the Glebe Island Abattoirs, in 1853, and Morts Dock in Balmain, in 1854. The establishment of these two great industrial concerns contributed greatly to the development of the area. Land values increased and substantial

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quantities of housing were built to meet the demands of the increasing population which moved to the area to be close to their place of employment (22). By the 1860s Balmain was said to be primarily inhabited by tradesmen associated with the local industry but also

"Not by any means a small portion, however, consists of clerks and mercantile men who (are) occupied in the city. " (23)

The Bishopthorpe farm lands in Glebe were subdivided into 238 allotments in 1856 (24). Leichhardt, during the later years of the nineteenth century, remained a desirable suburban address even with the increasing presence of industry overshadowing the pleasant villas and cottages. Glebe in the 1850s was described as

"innumerable small cottages of wood or brick •.. Near the angle of Parramatta and Glebe Roads is a slight hollow, rather densely covered by rows of small houses. Some of them are third class rank but the rest of the Glebe belongs to the second, with the exception of a certain number of first class houses bordering the Glebe Road. This is a pleasant woodland road leading to the rural first class suburb of Glebe Point, but from the sale of lands on both sides of it, the first rank of this part is not maintained... The frontage of Parramatta street, is, of course occupied by shops or public houses doing a large trade ... " (25)

The increasing suburbanisation of the area resulted in the creation of public facilities to meet the demands of the growing population. For example Balmain School of Arts was established in 1856, the first church opened in Glebe in 1857, gas lighting was introduced to Glebe in 1860, Leichhardt Primary School was opened in 1862 and the Balmain Working Man's Institute formed in 1865. Indicative of the increasingly working class character of the area, though, was the number of public houses; Balmain had 21 hotels within its boundaries in 1867 as did Glebe. Municipal Government came to the area around this time as well.

The latter was responsible for the increased impetus of suburbanisation. Of Leichhardt it was said that,

" The actual development of Leichhardt began with its incorporation under the Municipalities Act of 1867. Subdivision

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of the large estates... rapidly followed, giving an impetus to closer settlement; builders and contractors got busy, within certain limits, to provide for a sensibly increasing population and local trade developed rapidly. Large tracts of land still remained almost in a virgin state, at a distance from the ancient centre; but there was no halting period after the people took on the management of their local common affairs and the erstwhile village of historical associations soon became a residential suburb of considerable promise." (26)

contemporary character and described as

descriptions continued positive qualities of the

to stress the area. Glebe was

"a favourite suburb and has many handsome villas and places of residence within its boundaries." (27)

Balmain was

"proverbial for its healthiness and agreeable scenery." (28)

others noted that,

"from its picturesque situation Balmain has long been a favourite residence with the citizens of Sydney." (29)

In general it was noted that

"The perfect streets, the monumental school of undeniable enlightened

state of repair of the neatness of the houses, the

appearance of the churches, arts, public schools give evidence of a thriving and population." (30)

However, despite these favourable circumstances, the seeds of the slum conditions that would later become associated with these inner city areas had been sewn by this time. Jevons' mid century description of the Glebe noted the pollution from the abattoirs, the wretched building conditions and the generally unwholesome appearance of some areas (31). A report prepared in 1859 on the conditions of workers habitations defined Glebe as having some of the worst in the city (32). Leichhardt at this time, though, was described as a "surveyed village" (33).

The first subdivisions in Birchgrove took place during the

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1860s followed by another major sale in 1878 (34). During the 1870s Annandale began to be subdivided, the first sale made in 1874. During the later 1870s, early 1880s and until the end of the 1890s Leichhardt was massively subdivided, at last twenty three major sales were held in this period (35). Glebe also was subject to a number of subdivisions and, in instances where the Church let out long leases, rows of shoddy dwellings were erected by speculators providing a particular character and form to these areas.

By the 1880s the suburbanisation of the area was complete. Balmain was said to be one of the three wealthiest suburbs in Sydney along with Woollhara and Redfern; Glebe had overtaken Paddington as the fourth wealthiest and Leichhardt , which was seventeenth in 1875, was then ranked sixth (36). Of Balmain it was said that;

"Some idea of suburban progress will be gained by the remembrance that only a quarter of a century has elapsed since nearly all Balmain was clothed with primitive forest." (37)

Glebe and Forest Lodge possessed

"handsome residences and .•. the well laid out suburb of Forest Lodge. Only five years ago this locality was little more than a series of paddocks; now there are fine wide streets and pretty villas."(38)

Leichhardt was said to be a "rapidly improving suburb" (39). By 1892 Lilyfield had been recognized as a suburb (40) and Annandale by 1895 (41). The latter, in 1900, was said to be chiefly inhabited by the middle class. By 1910 Rozelle had come to the fore;

"Owing to the formation of Balmain ... it has been found necessary to provide a post office at each end to meet the convenience of business people. Around this office has grown a business centre, young, vigorous and thriving with a tendency to be self assertive on account of the position they occupy ... this has caused Rozelle to come very rapidly to the front and made it a very popular business centre." (42)

The industrial identity of all the suburbs in the study area was by this time firmly established:

"Annandale (is) recognized man's suburb, the houses

as a working being small ...

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Balmain is principally a working man's suburb but several very pretty suburbs are situated near Snails Bay."(43}

Of Leichhardt:

"From this date, that is about 1907, the population has increased with extraordinary rapidity, building has extended in all directions as additional estates have been cut up, factories of various kinds have been established, domestic trade has been localised and today Leichhardt may fairly be described as a centre of industry ... " (44)

Further subdivisions were made in Birchgrove in 1900 and 1911.

2.2.3 The "Slums" of Sydney: 1910 - 1960

"How can you live in B- , a working man's suburb". And my pretty little friend turned up her nose disdainfully. "Why don't you come out our way?" (45)

So began an article in 1910 in the Sydney Morning Herald where a local resident attempted to define the qualities of this "despised" suburb which appealed to him.

By the second decade of the twentieth century Balmain and other inner city suburbs began to acquire a reputation for poor living standards, industrial environments and poor social conditions; slums. Residents of the area, though, appear to have perceived their environment in quite different ways to "outsiders. However, even the champion of Balmain in his article admitted that the area was one for a person on a small income and that the industrial presence had greatly detracted from its residential status often accompanied by overcrowded living conditions. In vain he pointed out its location to the city and its charming views.

"Oh yes but people wonder so when you say you live in Balmain." (46)

As early as 1893 the inner city suburbs had been described as,

"a congerie of bare brick habitations ... an arid desolate waste ... utterly unrelieved by tree or grass where the shoddy contractor despotises

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in his vilest and most hateful shape." (47)

The more affluent left the formerly desirable suburbs for the current socially desirable addresses. Middle class church and professional groups expressed concern about crowded inner city areas and used the word "slum" to describe socially unacceptable areas. Glebe, among others, was recommended for demolition, the residents to be moved to outlying areas (48).

Despite its reputation the inner city areas produced in its residents a great loyalty and a certain exclusivity or sense of being separate from the rest of Sydney. Residents called it a "city within a city" (49).

"Nobody else appears to have realized hitherto the sheer loveliness of Balmain. The exquisite water views, the quaint waterways, the characteristic houses resting in old established gardens, the busy shipping and the sudden alterations of crowded city life with green cliffs covered with the original bush make that suburb a place of all others to live in ...

" Beauty is always fashionable or rather it is above fashion made by the passing whim of a social few. But it is part of the characteristic local colour of Balmain that it is not sought out by strangers. It remains probably the only part of Sydney able to keep absolutely to itself. It has developed along its own lines untouched by any civic reform or beautifying. If too much publicity is given to it perhaps its charm will vanish." (50)

By 1910 Balmain had a population of 31,500, Leichhardt 25,000, Glebe and Forest Lodge 19,300 and Annandale 12,000 (51). Its identification with industrial activity was paramount. Balmain was said to be the "centre of industry" (52) and in 1914 the Balmain and Rozelle Storekeepers Association inaugurated a nine day festival to stimulate public interest in the industrial and commercial development of the area (53).

By 1918 even Annandale, which had generally avoided the heavy industrial image associated with areas such as Balmain, was termed "mostly an industrial centre" although an "elite" still lived along Johnstone Street and Annandale Street (54). Balmain and Rozelle were termed "a closely populated industrial centre"; the facilities available for the working men were termed outstanding (55). Glebe, like Annandale, was seen to have a "split

22

personality". It was said and manufacturing centre" was recognized in Glebe hand, was referred to populated suburb" (57).

to be "mostly a large industrial (56) but a very fashionable area Point. Leichhardt, on the other only as an "old and closely

During the 1920s it is apparent that speculative building occurred but in some places, particularly Glebe, residential expansion was inhibited by the Church ownership of land. The Church refused demolition of what were termed "slums" and continued to lease property.

"It is hard to realize that land at this part of Glebe has not increased in value over a long period of years. The demand at present is for terrace investments and nothing else. Nobody wants to build flats at the Glebe. Good water frontage sites at the Glebe are worth fifty pounds per foot provided they have a frontage to absolute low water mark ... The Glebe will remain dormant as a field for real estate speculation until its approaches are freed from the ownership of the Church. It is a suburb where investors are quite safe in buying terrace property which shows a good return and are seldom vacant for long but that is all there is to it." (58)

The Depression years were hard fOr suburbs. Balmain, in particular, was 1933 27.2% of the Balmain workforce average NSW figure was 18.4% (59). Morning Herald stated that;

the industrial inner very hard hit. In

was unemployed. The In 1930 the Sydney

"Balmain feels the pinch acutely, more so perhaps than other suburbs ... 2000 children so seriously undernourished as to be in a state of semi starvation ... gastro enteritis carried off babies whom a lack of nourishment deprived of the power of resistance." (60)

other areas also were hard hit; over 30% of the male workforce of Glebe, Balmain, Annandale and Leichhardt were unemployed. The effect of the depression had long term effects on the built environment. In Glebe;

" This was the era of the fibro extensions when once fine terrace houses were defaced with the partitioning on balconies to make a gas-ring kitchen or a sleep out room." (61)

23

Many of the fine old homes were "institutionalized" as departments and charities took over houses as offices, hostels and the like when the old owners could either not afford them or died. A number were converted to boarding houses or charitable hostels. Many houses were demolished. "Slum" clearance again became a priority for politicians. In 1935 one stated that;

"housing and slum clearance is one of the state's most important problems ... it is only necessary to pay a brief visit to certain parts of the city and the suburbs of Redfern ... Glebe, pyrmont, Balmain ... to appreciate the justice of the protests." (62)

The County of Cumberland Planning Scheme reported in 1947 of Balmain, Glebe and Annandale that,

"they possess natural advantages hardly discernible under the plight of the present development.

"Obsoleteness in these areas is due to outdated housing standards and dilapidation, while industrial penetration and lack of open space and other amenities have aggravated the condition. The existing street and subdivision patterns are so below acceptable standards that rehabilitation of the area is not possible without drastic clearance and the treatment of substantial areas at one time." (63)

However, it is clear that a considerable building programme was carried out during the 1920s and 1930s. In 1935 in Balmain it was noted that,

"Of late years some very fine types of dwelling houses and factories have been erected, amongst the later being Elliot Bros chemical works, Lever Bros. and Colgate Palmolive Peet Co.s soap works, Commonwealth Oxygen and Accessories Ltd., Texaco and Atlantic Union Oil Companies, Empire Timber Co. saw milling plant, also Bank of New South Wales. The old type of verandah and balconies in the main thoroughfares, Darling Street and Weston Road, have now become a thing of the past, having been demolished and in their place modern steel cantilever awnings have been erected which has added greatly to the appearance of the

24

business portion of the municipality." (64)

After the war years the inner city suburbs burgeoned with the influx of migrants. Inner city districts were completely changed by ethnic communities establishing familiar patterns of life in new communities. For example Leichhardt became a major centre of Italian settlement. In 1954 Leichhardt was home to 1,493 Italian migrants; by 1961 this had increased to 4,566, peaking in 1971 at 5,003 (65) •

This increase in the Italian population, and indeed the general population of inner city areas during the 1950s and 1960s is due in no small way to the provisions of the Landlord and Tenant Act of 1954 which made it impossible for landlords to raise rents in protected tenancies; the case for many inner city long term residents. Concern with rising interest rates and the slum acquisition program of the government caused many landlords to sell their properties, often to the existing tenants on very reasonable arrangements. This proved attractive to many tenants and home ownership rates in the inner suburbs rose during this period to reflect this situation. Many recent immigrants also found this attractive and bought into the inner city.

By 1958 the range of Italian businesses in Leichhardt had expanded to include travel agencies, imported wine shops, fashion and radio shops as well as the older convenience goods shops such as delicatessens, fruiterers, traditional pastry shops and seafood sellers. Local cinemas also ran Italian language films one or two days a week (66).

The migrants and the baby boom made it essential to build new homes. In 1948 a report prepared as part of the County of Cumberland's Council assessment delineated the degree of sub-standard housing in the city. More than half the houses of Balmain were included. In 1949 alone 972 notices were issued on substandard housing in Leichhardt. Local pressure as well was for elimination of old properties and new redevelopment;

" ... the slums could be eliminated and modern flats and cottages erected on a grand scale." (67)

The New South Wales Housing Commission moved in and large numbers of flats were built. In 1953 flats housing approximately 700 people were built. The Council felt that

"this type of rehousing should be encouraged as it will lead to the gradual elimination of many substandard dwellings in the municipality." (68)

25

"Leichhardt Municipality is not one of the young bustling areas of open spaces and intense home building development typical of the outer fringe municipalities and shires. It is a closely settled area which is, however, the target of increasing industrial expansion coupled with a tendency to provide residential flat building on a scale not witnessed in the past years ... Properly planned multi storey housing development with adequate air and recreation space around each unit should be encouraged in this municipality. The advantage of harbour views, close proximity to the city, transport, well established shopping centres and an olympic pool are distinct assets." (69)

2.2.4 Gentrification 1960-1989

As the 1960s opened local councils began to buy up cheap and dilapidated properties and demolition of the old building stock commenced with ambitions of creating new, modern and comfortable suburbs in the old areas. The face of the inner city was changed forever. For example in Balmain, on the waterfront where small cottages and ship yards had previously existed, the.council built units. A key factor in the encouragement of high density living appears to have been a conscious effort on the part of the Council to reduce the drift in population away from the city to the outer suburbs;

"In view of the figures showing a steady reduction in population it is encouraging to note a new development occurring in the municipality. I refer to the increasing number of flats becoming available by way of conversion of existing buildings and the erection of new residential buildings.

In 1962 Council approved 21 applications for new buildings and conversion which provided for 122 flats ... In addition to this flat building activity the Housing Commission of New South Wales commenced the construction of 36 flats in 6 aged units ...

These developments construction of the

together with the Council's own Brett

26

Avenue Housing Scheme ... should have a definite impact in reducing the drift in population. In effect a lead is being set for others to follow ad in years to come this Municipality may well be transformed into an area where high density housing will be a predominant feature." (70)

But after these "slum clearances" occurred a reaction took place amongst the new population that had come to live in the city areas. From the 1960s onwards the inner city suburbs that make up Leichhardt gradually underwent a rebirth as professional workers, those connected with the arts and "bohemians" rediscovered the charms that had recommended the area in the previous century. This began a process of gentrification.

"One sadness about the period was that some older residents, unable to compete with the young affluent, were moving out. On the other hand, people connected with the arts and the universities were adding new dimensions to the suburbs .... Moorhouse, in Days of Wine and Rage, pointed out that, for the Balmain economy, literary grants were the equivalent of a new factory opening." (71)

In 1981 Leichhardt was described as being in transition from,

"a largely working class, residential and industrial area to an environmentally reformed and physically upgraded residential suburb dominated by a number of middle and upper income groups, both home owning and renting, in particular, households consisting of single people or childless families. (72)

" ... the extent of affluence has more than doubled on a municipal wide basis over the last decade (1970s). This has tended to be concentrated in a number of selective areas, such as Birchgrove, Balmain, Glebe and Forest Lodge, where indicators of economic stability and wealth are now disproportionately high." (73)

This process has particularly effected the residential building stock of the area. Former three or four bedroom houses have been converted to one or two bedroom houses and the number of boarding houses has been drastically reduced. For example during 1981/2, in Glebe, 2000 beds in

27

former boarding houses were lost as these were converted to private houses and businesses (74).

At the same time the new community became greatly aware of c.:"--n the heritage that surrounded it in the natural and built j! environment. Associations were formed and communi ty " I activity groups established to actively promote and 1/ protect this heritage. Early indications of this I development were seen during the 1950s when local ' residents at Birchgrove took a local industry to court \. over noise pollution. In 1965 the Balmain Association was '\ formed. In 1967 a major campaign was launched to save i

Birchgrove House, unsuccessfully. A three storey block of I flats, called Birchgrove House, replaced it. But even as I late as 1970 one university academic could write that .~)

"The view that Glebe is not a particularly nice place to live has persisted at Sydney University .. " (75)

It was noted though, that what was the convenience to the character of the houses and peoples.

attracted people to Glebe city, the architectural the pleasant mixture of

"There is an urban, cosmopolitan air about the place; less Bohemian and picturesque than paddington but like that admirable suburb it has become increasingly aware of its past, its architecture and its place in the Sydney of tomorrow." (76)

"~//

The role of the community in the development of the:._ suburbs is highlighted by the activities of its communi tyl ___ ~ groups. For example, in 1971, the Annandale Association Ij" presented a Plan for Annandale which considered the local ' needs and presented a series of recommendations and proposals to meet those needs. This was submitted to Leichhardt Council. The main themes of the document were the need to end piecemeal development and, thereby, ensure high quality living standards, the regulation of traffic; the opposition to an expressway system planned for the suburb; the supplementation of existing parklands; the recognition of the architectural and historic significance of the area and that Town Planning recognize and reflect ~ the wishes of the residents (77). .;:-/

In 1973 the Leichhardt Historical Journal commenced publication. In 1974 the Glebe Estate Project commenced to revitalize the inner city suburb according to its historic character. From the later 1970s the Council responded, for example by making stipulations that buildings be preserved for example "Venetia" on Jarrets Point. During the early 1980s major resident action campaigns were successfully carried out to block attempts at creating a second harbour

1 I I

1

,~---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------, i I

28

crossing through Birchgrove. From the 1970s onwards a change in Council policy towards new development is evident;

"During the year 1977 there was a further decline in approvals granted for the erection of residential flat building. The pattern has tended to change from the traditional three storey walk up flat building with parking under to town house type development which consists or a semi detached terrace type building .. " (78)

I I

I

j

"The modification of new homes has been stimulated by the modification of Town Planning requirements which have discouraged the erection of flats. The new houses on the Balmain peninsula are architecturally designed expensive type houses in keeping with the panorama of bays and inlets standing against the background of the city dominated skyline." (79)

~

By the 1980s the emphasis was on renovation of existing structures particularly from 1981 .onwards when Council's environmental policies were formulated;

"The large bulk of houses within the Municipality is now owner occupied and the increasing number of building applications reflects the improvements to existing houses. There was an increased number of first floor extensions, swimming pools and renovations which provided for improved living areas within the existing homes."(80)

The immigrant community has remained a strong presence in Leichhardt during these later years although a decline in numbers has been noted during the early 1970s. Italian 'businesses are still a feature of the community and Italian community clubs have been established such as Apia, the Associazione Emilia Romagna, Associazione Trieste, Associazione Sicilia. In 1981 43% of the population of Leichhardt was either first or second generation non Australian.

In 1989 the Western Suburbs Courier in a lead article stated that,

"Leichhardt is still considered hallowed ground. Leichhardt will be the centre

!' \

lr

29

for the Italian forum traditional stature as Italians first made Australia ... " (81)

because of its the suburb where their home in

An Italian forum project was proposed to provide an Italian style piazza.

The general population of Leichhardt has, during the later years, gradually declined from the post war boom years. In 1961 the population was 78,000. In 1971 it was 71,338. In 1981 it was 57,330 (82). Partly this has been due to the decentralization of industry away from the CBD thereby requiring less of a blue collar work force so close to the city. Partly it has been due to the changing social and economic status of the inner city dweller.

"Growing affluence during the 1970s and the subsequent dispossession of lower income groups, as well as the voluntary departure of large numbers of moderate income nuclear families, both Australian and migrant, has caused a dramatic fall in average occupancy rates of private dwellings. The further loss of substantial numbers of dwellings for non residential developments, such as freeway and road widening programmes, institutional expansions (particularly for hospitals and educational centres) and conversions for commercial and other uses, have also significantly effected population levels." (82)

The introduction of new groups to established communities, however, has caused unease in areas;

"Generations of families were born and bred here until the last twenty years, when we began to get blow ins, hippies when it became fashionable ... People would dearly love to buy here and can't, with the inflation and the blow-ins and the professionals who want to live close to the city and use the ferry. They have the dollars. If I move there'll be no more Balmain for the family and there's no way you could get back once you've left." (83)

However, the sense of community which has prevailed in these areas for over a century appears to absorb these new elements even as the profile of the community changes with it. As Ruth Park commented on Balmain, but applicable for the entire municipality;

30

"Balmain absorbs all comers, seamen of a century ago, as Greeks and Italians of close-knit community admits alma mater, Balmain.

the foreign well as the today. Its to only one

" 'Yeah', says one drinker in one of its 28 hotels, all old style, many decrepit. 'One of these days Balmain may join the Commonwealth. But, I dunno. We're still chewing over whether we'll join New South." (84)

31

Footnotes to the Text: Section 2.2

1. Cusick, A. Leichhardt West Notes on the Land Grants and Subdivisions., 4

2. Kennedy, B. Sydney and Suburbs A History and Description., 80

3. Po11on, F. The Book of Sydney Suburbs., 29 4. Ibid., 109 5. Ibid., 109-110 6. Leong, K. "Broughton Hall Austenham" Leichhardt

Historical Journal No. 13, 1984 7. Pollon, F. Op Cit. 105 8. Leong, K. Loc. Cit. 9. Ibid. 10. Pollon, F. Op Cit., 151 11. Macdonnell, F. The Glebe: Portraits and Places., 3 12. Pollon, F. Op Cit., 109 13. Stephenson, P. and Kennedy, B. The History and

Description of Sydney Harbour., 174 14. For example SMH May 30, 1840 and 28 October 1840 15. Leichhardt Municipal Council Jubilee History of

Leichhardt 1871 - 1921., 30 16. SMH 28 October 1840 17. Sale notice Balmain SMH 3 May, 1841 18. Ibid ---19. Prout, J.S. Sydney Illustrated 1843., 6 20. Wells Geographical Dictionary of the Australian

Colonies 1848., 12, 42, 181 21. SMH 14 December 1850 22. Lynch, L. "T.S. Mort, His Dock and Balmain Labour"

Nineteenth Century Sydney Essays in Urban History (Ed. M. Kelly)., 84

23. Leichhardt Municipal Council Jubilee History of Leichhardt 1871 - 1921., 21 24. DHC The Glebe Project., 147 25. Jevons in "A Social Survey" SMH 30 Nov 1929., 13 26. Leichhardt Municipal Council Op Cit., forward 27. Leigh, S. T. The Handbook to Sydney and Suburbs

1867., 59 28----nJid. 29 Australian Handbook 1872., 72 30 Leigh, S.T. Op Cit., 60 31 Quoted in Macdonnell, F. Op Cit., 12 32 NSW Votes and Proceedings: Vol.IV On the Conditions

of the Working Classes, 1859., 1263 33 Bai11iere NSW Gazetteer 1866 34 Jeffrey, P. Birchgrove 1796-1985 Leichhardt Historical Journal No. 15 1986 35. Leichhardt Municipal Council.,Op Cit. 32 36. Hordern and Sons Old and New Sydney. 37. Gibbs, Shallard and Co. Illustrated Guide to Sydney

and its Suburbs and to Favourite Places of Resort 1882. 74

38. Iiiid. 39. Australasian Handbook 1883., 221

i- --------------------------------------------

32

40. Mentioned in Hanson Geographical Encyclopedia of NSW 1892., 242

41. First mentioned in the Australasian Handbook 1895 42. Souvenir to Commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the

Incorporation of the Municipality of Balmain 1860-1910. 73

43. Samuel, H.J. How to Know Sydney 1895., 40 44. Leichhardt Council. Jubilee History of Leichhardt 1871

- 1921., 27 45. "What Will People Think" SMH 22.6.1910 46. Ibid. 47. Francis Addams quoted in Solling M."Running the Suburbs" Leichhardt Historical Journal 15 1986., 41 48 Ibid 49. "Growth of Ba1main" Evening News 21.5.1914 50. "Beautiful Ba1main" SMH 29.6.1910 51. Wilson Street Directory 1909-1910., 113,131,209,249 52. "Ba1main Great Industrial Centre" Evening News

22.10.1917 53. "Growth of Balmain" Evening News 21.5.1914 54. Harris, M. Where to Live ABC Guide to Sydney" Annandale 38 55. Ibid., 45 56. Ibid., 106 57. Ibid., 125 58. "The Glebe The Church as <Landlord" SMH 13 October 1924 59. Stephens, T. Larrikin Days 65. 60. Ibid. 61. Macdonnell, F. The Glebe Portraits and Places., 119 62. "Evils of Slum Areas" Labour Daily 20 Nov. 1935 63. Quoted in Leichhardt Municipal Council Profiles.,4 64. Burn1ey, I. Italian Settlement in Sydney 1920 1978"., 181 65 "A Health Suburb" The Link 28 Nov 1935., 2 66. Macdonne11, F. Op Cit.,., 109 67 Glebe Observer 1948 68. Burnley. I. Op Cit., 183 69. Annual Reports of the Health Building Section Leichhardt Municipal Council 1953. 70. Annual Report Health and Building Section Leichhardt Municipal Council 1962 70 Ibid 1960 71. Dept of Planning and Dept of Community Services Leichhardt Municipal Council Profile of population and Dwellings.,l 72. Ibid., 2 73. Pers. comm Terry Watson Leichhardt Council 74. "Will B1ackwattles Bloom in Blackwattle Bay" SMH 26.9.1970 75. Ibid. 76. The Annandale Association A Plan for Annandale., 1 77 western Suburbs Courier 19 July 1989., 9 78. Health and Building Annual Reports 1977 79. Ibid., 1978 80. Health and Building Annual Reports 1981

.....

33

81 Pers. comm Terry Watson Leichhardt Council 82 Dept of Planning and Dept of Community Services Leichhardt Municipal Council ~p=r~o~f~2='I~e=--=o=f~~P~o~p~u==l=a~r~i~o~n~a=n==d Dwellings.,l 83. Quoted in Stephens, T. Op Cit., 111 84. Park, R. Companion Guide to Sydney., 360

26

2.3 A "Working Class Area" - The Role of Industry

2.3.1 Maritime and Land Based Industry

Industry, both water based and land based, has played one of the most significant roles in shaping the character and development of Leichhardt. It has contributed unique qualities which characterize the area and has been significant in the formation of political identities. It has provided massive employment opportun1~1es and changed the shape of the municipality through land reclamation programmes.

Balmain, in particular, has been the most significant industrial centre close to Sydney from earliest settlement although Glebe has played an important role as well. Leichhardt and Annandale have played a less conspicuous role although they were important dormitory suburbs for the people employed in the adjoining suburbs as well as being home to significant industries of their own.

Industrial undertakings began in the study area with small pastoral concerns on farms such as Whitfields at Birchgrove. These pastoral holdings included small farms, dairying establishments, vineyards and orchards. Timber getting was also a feature of this period. However, the land was never considered to be a particularly good area for rural cultivation; hunting was more popular in this area .

The extensive water frontage along suburbs such as Rozelle, Glebe and, in particular, Balmain encouraged from early on the growth of maritime based industry which was fundamental in developing parts of the study area.

The earliest settlement in Balmain occurred at Peacock Point where two boat building yards were established during the later 1830s. The earliest sales pitches made for land in Balmain stressed the suitability of the waterfront for forming into dockyards and mooring areas with space for warehouses (1).

By 1840 Balmain had already acquired a reputation as the "little Deptford of New South Wales" and advertisements for land stressed the great employment possibilities for tradesmen of all kind. The tradesmen sought after were primarily associated with the maritime trades but tailors, shoemakers, brickmakers, quarrymen and labourers were also enticed with these promises (2). This confirms that light industry such as brickmaking was already an established presence from the earliest years of settlement.

Glebe, also, had acquired its location although,

water based industry because of by the mid century, this was

------------~-------------------------- -- - -----,

27

largely related to noxious trades which required water as part of the processing stage. Slaughterhouses were particularly plentiful. In consequence of their using the creeks for disposal eyewitnesses noted that,

"the waters bear away all the filthy refuse of the slaughter, becoming thereby thickened and coloured a light coffee brown tint. The foul mud deposited in the channel; giving off a fearful stench renders this place as unhealthy and disgusting to one and all the senses as can be conceived." (3)

Boiling down works were also located here, particularly during the 1840s depression when the tallow from the beast was more valuable than the live animal. Aside from this, though, by the 1850s Glebe's industrial concerns encompassed an old corn mill, a few dressmaking, tailoring, washing and shoemaking concerns and some building yards. At Annandale during the first half of the nineteenth century a copper smelting works was established by Bensusan and Musson on Johnsons Bay and close by was a soap and candle factory (4). Leichhardt possessed a few brickyards, boiling down and other noxious trades. Piggeries were also prominent here.

By 1867 the Glebe Island Abattoirs had been constructed to take the place of all the smaller earlier concerns. This establishment was located on Glebe Island, at that time still an island connected to the mainland by a solid embankment along which the cattle were driven to stockyards. The buildings were built in stone and were very substantial. The abattoirs were connected to Pyrmont by a long bridge (5) and were a massive source of employment for the local population.

The pollution from the establishment, however, was appalling until the 1880s when the Cattanach Chemical Works Company was engaged to carry out periodic dredging and disinfecting sorties. The timber industry also came to be closely associated with Glebe and many mills and yards were established around the waterfront areas to take advantage of this convenient form of transport. Hudsons' Timber came to have their head office in Glebe Point Road.

The other great maritime based industrial enterprise of the mid nineteenth century was the construction of Morts Dock in Balmain. This single establishment, said to be the largest of its kind in the southern hemisphere, greatly contributed to the growth and development of Balmain, to its political identity as well as shaping its industrial character and population.

Constructed during the 1850s, by 1866 commentators were able to say that the considerable progress Balmain had

28

made in recent years was entirely due to this establishment (6). At this time, in addition to Morts Dock, Balmain also housed P.N.Russell and Company which produced all forms of machinery but "from their position with respect to the dock, marine work is mainly followed" (7). On the same bay was the ship yard of George Thomson (formerly Captain Rowntrees establishment). On Johnsons Bay was Booth's steam saw mill, and elsewhere Reynolds Looke and Bell's shipyard.

"From the number and extent of the various works in and about Balmain it may be inferred that a very large proportion of its inhabitants are mechanics whose employment is furnished by such works. Shipwrights, boat builders, engineers, boiler makers, carpenters etc will thus form the bulk of the population." (8)

The industrialization of places like Balmain was not without some opposition. In 1878 public meetings were held to protest the nuisance of the abattoirs but the trend was too far progressed to reverse it. A gas works, of short lived duration, had been established in Balmain by 1876. The pollution from the industrial establishments was the primary nuisance for the residents;

"When the wind blows from the Leichhardt Municipality towards the Glebe, or in calm sultry evenings when there is no wind at all, the smell is intolerable . .. " (9)

The rapid industrialization of the area can be followed by the increasing number of industries recorded per year. By 1889 apart from Morts, Russells and the various shipyards, steam mill and joinery works mentioned earlier Balmain had a meat preserving works (10). In 1891 Balmain had acquired an iron foundry and soap works and Glebe flour mills and a biscuit factory (11). In 1895 Balmain gained a cooperage (12). During this decade Ba1main was described as

"an important suburb of the city having many miles of frontage to the waters of Port Jackson and manufacturies of large proportions are carried on in iron and wood... Ship builders, engineers, boilermakers, carpenters etc form the bulk of the population." (13)

In 1890, another great industrial venture was launched in Balmain; the sinking of two shafts to exploit a coal seam which ran under the harbour. This was only partially successful and it closed in 1913. This was the beginning of a small but important heavy industrial presence,

29

largely centred in Balmain, which continued into the twentieth century with the establishment of concerns such as the power station. In 1890 Glebe was said to have a sawmill and Jo~nery works, a tannery, a perambulator factory, Conlons pottery, a revolving shutter factory, two jam factories, a brush factory, a biscuit factory, two foundries, a soda and aerated water factory, large wheelwrights and coachbuilding factories (14). Leichhardt was noted for its dairy·concerns.

In 1898 Lever Brothers established a soap factory on the waterfront at Balmain (15). In 1909 Balmain was called the "home of the shipbuilding industry" (16) and by 1910 it was the preeminent industrial centre of Leichhardt.

contemporary commentators recognized the worth of industry to the suburb and the role that it had played in developing the area;

"As the years passed ... industries came into existence and have grown into mammoth concerns employing thousands of workmen all year round. Of these the first place must be given to shipbuilding and work connected with ships.

On the Johnstones Bay side are Messrs Lever Brothers Sunlight Oil and Soap Works ... while around the different bays and in positions convenient for their works are to be found the chemical works and laboratory of Messrs Elliot Brothers Ltd, Millars Karri and Jarrah Companys timberyards, Morrison and Sinclairs shipbuilding works, Poole and Steele, Dampney and Co. paintworks, Adelaide S.S. and Co. Wharves and Shipping works, Swan Bros timber yards, NSW Meat Preserving Co preserving and canning works, Alston Soap Co, wadge and Brown timber merchants, Federal Timber Co., Electric Light and Power Supply Co, White Bay Steel Works Ltd, the Australian Wood Pipe Co. Also in Balmain are state wide suppliers eg Alexander Smith ironmongers." (17)

During the early years of the twentieth century one of the most unusual and difficult of undertakings was carried out at Long Nose Point. This was the excavation of a harbour tunnel to take electricity cables across to the north shore to power the tram system. Power cables had been run along the floor of the harbour in 1904 but these proved to be hazardous. In 1912 a decision was made to house them in a tunnel. Work began in 1913 and the cables were laid in 1926, the lengthy time due to problems in the tunnelling process. In 1930 the tunnel was flooded after the cables were insulated. The entrance to the tunnel is at 146

30

Louisa Road (18).

In 1914 it was stated that,

Balmain's industrial advantages already surpass its residential claims and such a position will always be maintained but with greater force." (19)

By 1918 Glebe was described as

"mostly a large industrial and manufacturing centre on account of the many large timber mills and other factories around Blackwattle Bay etc although it has a fashionable part ... in Glebe Point" (20)

As a result of public pressure the Glebe Island Abattoirs were closed and removed to Homebush. A large fire destroyed the old abattoirs and the wheat storage silos current today were constructed and opened during 1918. More land was reclaimed to allow for extensions.

By the 1920s the industrial ventures had completely changed the face of some suburbs;

"Balmain is today a hive of industry. Population is so dense that viewing its hilly sides from the water one would almost think that the houses were sitting upon one another. In years gone by it was a smaller and pleasanter place of residence. Except for some boatbuilding, Morts Dock and its immediate environs and Waterview Bay were the only real industrial centres. Today the works of Lever Bros, Elliots and countless other activities together with the housing of armies of employees connected with them have quite changed the face of the old waterside suburb." (21)

By the 1920s Leichhardt was home to a vast number of industries including a soap manufacturer, sheet metal producers, a meat preserving and canning factory, felt hat manufacturers, confectioners, bakers, chairmakers, a glass works, timber merchants, margarine manufacturer, paint manufacturer, explosives company, coopers, box maker, boot makers, motor car builders, iron foundries and ice works. In addition there was a large Ordnance stores Department of the Commonwealth Government (22).

The developments of the later twentieth century have consolidated this environment in some places, for example containerisation at Glebe Island and the construction of

31

power stations at White Bay and Balmain. Labour intensive workshop areas have also contributed to the later twentieth century industrial character of the area. For example the 1947 Census shows the biggest percentage of women clothing industry workers to be located in seven suburbs including Glebe and Balmain.

However, from the 1960s onwards, coinciding with the new population and their changing values for the suburbs, industry has begun to take a much less prominent role in the municipal profile. In 1964 the number of factories in the municipality were 684 with a work force of 14,962 compared to 781 factories with a workforce of 18,872 in 1954. Building applications for the erection, alteration and addition of factories constituted only 19% of building applications in 1964.

In 1971 manufacturing provided 30% residents. In 1981 this figure had 18%. Commmunity services supplied 1981 whereas in 1971 this was 11%.

of all employment to fallen to less that

21% of employment in

The restructuring of the municipal employment basis away from the traditional industrial base is highlighted by figures relating to the loss of industries in the area during this later period. Between 1971 and 1981 the municipality lost half of the established manufacturing establishments (23).

2.3.2 A Political Identity

The entrenched working class ethic of the area has resulted in a pronounced political identity strongly allied to the Labour Party. Many suburbs have produced famous Australian Labour politicians including "Billy" Hughes, Neville Wran, Edmund Barton. The Liberal politician Robin Askin was also from the municipality.

From the 1850s to 1890s parliamentary representation was monopolised by men of independent means. In 1889 payment for political service was introduced, finally opening up the way for tradesmen and artisans to take part in political activity. The politicization of the working class is reflected in the formation of the Labour Electoral Leagues, two of the first being formed in Glebe and Balmain in 1891. The leagues were concerned with democracy, home ownership and local progress. The strength of the party in Balmain is encapsulated by a reminiscence of a local;

"father once stood for in a seat almost 100 the older boys went protect him." (24).

the National party­per cent Labour - and along to meetings to

32

The political identity of the inner areas reflected the changing class structure within them. Increasing population density and industrial expansion of the later nineteenth century reduced the social desirability of an inner suburban address and better communications such as trams made living in outer areas convenient.

"in an increasingly middle class society those who remained in the residential districts ringing ~ne city drew upon themselves the stigma of slum dweller. If you lived in Balmain or Glebe you could probably fight or play football, they thought but do precious little else." (25)

From 1891 Balmain had returned a labour representative to state parliament, Leichhardt from 1907 and Glebe from 1910 when Labour came to power. The state voting patterns reflected class differences, for example in 1917 Labour strongholds were found in Annanda1e, Balmain, Glebe, Leichhardt, Marrickville, Newtown and Redfern. Liberal seats were found north of the harbour (26).

The Labour party contested municipal elections for the first time in Glebe in 1911. This was unsuccessful due to the restrictive voting franchise. This changed and, in 1920, the Labour party set out to capture control of inner city councils. Twenty four Labour men were successful. In 1922 three Labour candidates were 'elected at Glebe and in 1925 the first labour mayor of Glebe was installed in office (27).

Inner suburban councils became Labour strongholds which they have remained since. The politics of conservation have, however, become a powerful force in recent times. Former safe seats have become swinging seats over issues such as the proposed second harbour crossing.

33

Footnotes Section 2.3

1. Sale notices for Balmain SMH 30.5.1840, 11.5.1840 2. Sale notice SMH 28.10.1840 3. Jevons description of Glebe in 1853 in Macdonnell, F. Portraits and Places., 11-12 4. Leichhardt Municipal Council Jubilee Municipal History., 33 5. Leigh, S.T. Handbook of Sydney., 73 6. Bailliere NSW Gazetteer 1866., 20 7. Ibid., 21 8. Ibid. 9. 1876 quoted in Municipality of Leichhardt' Health Administration Service Annual Report 1969 9. Australasian Handbook 1889., 206 10. Ibid., 1891., 185, 200 11. Ibid., 1895 12. Hanson Geographical Encyclopedia of NSW 1892., 13 13. Australasian Handbook 1898., 63 14. Suburbs of History The Glebe The Echo 15. Wilson street Directory 1908-9., 133 16. Souvenir to Commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the Incorporation of the Municipality of Balmain 1860-1910., 77, 79 17. Dargan, J. The Sydney Harbour Tunnel Greenwich to Balmain 18. Progress of the Suburbs Balmain 4.4.1914 SMH 19. Harris, A. Where to Live ABC Guide to Sydney., 106 20. "Balmain from another Angle" SMH 8.3.24 21. Leichhardt Municipal Council Jubilee History of Leichhardt., 91 22. Department of Planning and Department of Community Services Leichhardt Municipal Council Profile of Population and Dwellings., 3 23. Stephens, T. Larrikin DAys., 54 24. SoIling, M. Running the Suburbs Leichhardt Historical Journal 15 1986., 41 25. Ibid 41 26. Ibid

33

2.4 A Sense of Community

2.4.1 The Development of Local Government

Local government occurred at a time when population and suburban growth began to escalate and when responsible government had been achieved in New South Wales. Responsible local government became a prominent demand;

"A considerable portion of the area surrounding Sydney proper had been incorporated under the Municipalities Acts of 1858 and 1867. The civic spirit was abroad and attracted those scattered communities until the whole of the metropolitan area came under its spell and once the idea took shape ... it rapidly materialized ... the idea had become a fixed one by this time. It was part of the mental atmosphere of the small community." (1)

The creation of local councils helped to create a community identity. They were responsible for care and management of thoroughfares, bridges, ferries, wharves and the provision of water and sewerage. The Glebe municipality was proclaimed in August 1859 and Balmain was proclaimed a municipality in 1860. The Glebe electoral district encompassed both Glebe and Balmain. The latter in particular galled many that lived in Balmain;

"Balmain, which has about 2000 electors, is tacked onto the Glebe a place from which it is divided by water and altogether foreign to it." (2)

The early councils of Glebe and Balmain were dominated by the wealthy citizens of those communities and councils became a means of protecting the interests of the wealthy residents of places such as Glebe Point. Any attempts by working class members to alleviate this situation were thwarted (3).

Leichhardt was created a municipal district in December 1871. This initial division included part of Annandale. This portion of Annandale was excluded in 1894 and Annandale gained its own council. By the 1880s the profile of those that contested and controlled councils had changed to be dominated by self made men, industrialists etc.

The importance of the municipal divisions in each area in terms of civic identity and pride is symbolized by the impressive Town Halls Balmain, Leichhardt and Glebe all

34

possess. The sense of importance placed on the incorporation of the suburbs is characterized by the souvenir publication produced by Balmain Council in 1901 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the incorporation of the municipality of Balmain.

Much of the growth of local development is credited by local observers to the inception of local government. In 1866 it was stated that the "benefits of the municipal system are marked in Balmain (4). Of Glebe, in 1867, it was saJ..o that "no corporate body could have worked more unostentatiously, more harmoniously, or with a greater amount of success than this" noting the curbed and guttered streets, the ballasted and macadamised main roads and the availability of town water and gas (5). Of Leichhardt it was claimed that,

"The actual development of Leichhardt began with its incorporation under the Municipalities Act of 1867. Subdivisions of large estates rapidly followed, giving an impetus to closer settlement; builders and contractors got busy, within certain limits, to provide for a sensibly increasing population and local trade developed rapidly. Large tracts of land still remained in an almost virgin state ... but there was no halting period after the people took on the management of their common local affairs and the erstwhile village of historical associations soon became a residential suburb of considerable promise." (6)

During the later nineteenth and early twentieth centuries local government was characterized by the growth and eventual dominance by the Labour party. During the 1930s Glebe Council acquired a reputation for fraud and in 1939 it was dismissed and an administrator appointed in its place. Leichhardt Council went the same way in 1953.

In 1945 a Royal Commission was appointed to consider the question of local government in the county of Cumberland. This resulted in the reduction of local authorities from 66 to 40. Glebe, Annanda1e and Balmain were amongst those subsumed by amalgamation. Balmain and Annandale became part of Leichhardt municipality and Glebe was merged with the Sydney City Council. In 1968 the City of Sydney boundaries were again restructured and Glebe became part of Leichhardt (7).

2.4.2 Facilities and Services

Along with the growth of suburban living facilities and

35

services came into being to enhance the community. By the 1860s Balmain possessed many civic facilities including a school of arts, an odd fellows hall, an insurance office, masonic hall, branch bank and a working man's institute (8). The working men's institutes were particularly important in the working class suburbs and were responsible for consolidating much of the local ethic and for providing assistance with education.

Schools of Arts were attempts to provide the same faC~L~~~es but the patronage of tnese institutes by the middle class made them unpopular with the working class. One such centre in Glebe lasted only from 1860 to 1861 (9). Municipal libraries fared little better. In 1907 the Glebe library handed over its books to the Working Men's Insti tute because o"f too little interest. In Balmain a Working Men's Institute was formed in 1863 with success. Others formed in Leichhardt and Rozelle. These were still successfully operating during the early years of the twentieth century.

there was an insurance agency inns" (10). The public house feature of the inner city in particular had numerous

During the 1860s in Glebe and "numbers of hotels and was a particularly strong townscape. Glebe and Balmain establishments.

"The working class in the inner city sought entertainment outside the home. Overcrowding and impermanence of housing among labouring folk made any stable family life difficult and at the pub in the evening they could drink with others with whom they felt a certain solidarity in facing the daily problems of poverty and family life." (11)

The churches did not allow this monopoly of to go' on for iong and organized activities the souls and time of the parishioners. prominent features of the townscape as well.

leisure time competed for Churches are

By the 1870s Balmain had gained another bank and twenty one hotels (12) and a telegraph and a savings bank (13). The fire brigade was established in 1875. Volunteer fire brigades were formed in Glebe in 1877, Leichhardt in 1887, Rozelle in 1909 and Annandale in 1916. The Volunteer brigades also expressed a sense of community support; they helped raise funds and held benefit concerts (14).

By 1883 a newspaper had been established in Balmain (15) although an earlier version had a short career from 1867. By 1900 Leichhardt dwellers could read the Balmain Observer and Western Suburbs Advertiser, the Glebe Argus and the Leichhardt Standard. By the early 1880s Glebe had

36

gained a telegraph and money order office, two banks and a childrens hospital had been established (16). By this time Leichhardt had a post office, money order office, savings bank, three hotels and was said, to be "rapidly improving" (17). In 1887 Glebe had acquired a school of arts and a free library (18).

The works of the later 1880s best express the sense of community which had developed within Leichhardt. The provision of public buildings symbolises the sense of commun1~y and civic pride. In 1888 Balmain had acquired a courthouse, post and telegraph office, money order and savings bank offices (19). In the following year a large town hall, masonic hall and public hall had been added to the suburb (20).

By 1891 a free library and Callan Park were listed as community assets (21). Glebe had also acquired many new community facilities including a free library, Town Hall, Police Station and court house (22). By 1892 Lilyfield was established as a postal suburb with mail delivered twice daily and Leichhardt had telegraph and money order offices and a government savings bank (23). In 1893 Balmain gained a benevolent society (24) and in the following year a cottage hospital and two additional post and telegraph offices (25).

By 1895 Annandale had established a money order office, a savings bank, telegraph facilities, one hotel and a post office (26). By 1897 Leichhardt had built a town hall (27) .

Between 1860 and 1867 gas was laid on to Glebe for street illumination and simple domestic illumination. Mains were laid to Balmain by 1873. Leichhardt streets were gas lit by the 1880s. In 1909 electricity was used to light the streets of Balmain for the first time (28) and in the previous year a new garbage destructor had been completed and opened (29). The heat from the burning garbage was used to produce electricity for the Electric Light and Power Supply Corporation. Glebe, after significant disagreements over its supply, replaced gas with electricity in 1911.

The significance of the facilities and services in community development can be illustrated by the growth of Rozelle which grew up around the establishment of post office (30). The impact of these facilities on the established suburbs was great. Retail in particular attracted many to the burgeoning suburbs;

"For the whole distance from Johnston street to the top of Taverners Hill it presents a practically unbroken double line of shops ... That this concentration of commercial

37

enterprises was, not so very long ago, for the most part vacant land with a small unpretentious building here and there ... is difficult of realisation." (31)

Friendly Societies were an important element in the social welfare network of the 1880s onwards in the working class suburbs. The societies, including the Grand United Order of Oddfe1lows, the Independent Order of Oddfel10ws, the Ancient Order of Foresters and many more, helped to provide sickness benefits, medical supplies and services as well as social activities. Branches were established in Glebe, Balmain and Leichhardt and in 1910 Balmain had the second largest friendly society dispensary in Sydney (32).

Parks and gardens are a feature of the municipality. Reclamation projects provided Birchgrove Park, Jubilee and Wentworth parks. By the early years of the twentieth century Balmain had 55 acres of parkland, Glebe 52 acres, Leichhardt 39 acres and Annandale 7 acres (33).

Sewerage and drainage facilities were sorely needed services by the mid century; the stench, disease and pollution caused by the earlier arrangements being quite overpowering. Water mains were extended to Glebe in 1862 and all residents were serviced by the later 1870s. Leichhardt and Balmain were serviced between 1878 and 1882 (34) .

Glebe undertook to privately sewer its own area in 1885. Balmain and Leichhardt continued to use the old pan system until 1895 at which time tenders were called for the sewerage of the area from Forest Lodge to Balmain. Prior to that, disposal of night soil was haphazard. Disposal of the soil was undertaken at the Garryowen Estate which served as a night soil farm. Two large aqueducts were constructed in brick and concrete. The resulting works were the first use of reinforced concrete in Australia and were bigger in concept than anything previously constructed in Europe.

2.4.3 Religion and Education

Religion and education have always held an important place in the development of the community. The first church was established in Ba1main in 1846. st Marys was erected in 1856 and st Augustines two years earlier in 1854 (35). All were Anglican. The Presbyterians commenced services not long after as did the Methodists and Roman Catholics.

In 1858 Glebe Public School was opened; it was to have many famous pupils in its career including both Douglas Mawson and Frank Hurley. By 1866 Ba1main had two churches, one protestant, one Roman Catholic, as well as two large

38

public schools, one denominational and one national (36). Lyndehurst was, by this time, used as a Catholic college. By the l870s Balmain had acquired several smaller schools and totalled eight churches (37). Glebe had fifteen schools which encompassed twelve private, a public denominational and ragged school, the latter one of only three in Sydney (38). By the end of the decade Balmain had acquired two additional schools (39). By the early years of the l880s Leichhardt had established a public school and four places of worship (40). In 1887 Balmain had four large public schools, four Roman Catholic Schools, thirteen churches, two convents with chapels and schools (41). By 1891 Glebe had eight places of worship and a Salvation Army Barrack (42) and by 1895 Annandale had acquired five private schools and three churches (43). In 1897 Leichhardt had three public schools and six places of worship (44). In 1898 a Chinese temple was opened in Glebe (rebuilt in 1955).

Sectarianism has been a feature of suburban life since the nineteenth century. Freemasonry was particularly strong in Glebe. The lodge claimed many influential members and this had an influence on local politics which were dominated by protestant members. Catholics struggled to find a place until the Labour politics of the twentieth century when a high proportion of members had strong ties with the Catholic Church.

2.4.4 A Local Identity - Perceptions of Place

From the earliest years of settlement a strong sense of identity has evolved within the municipality particularly in relation to its working class origins. In 1840 Balmain was referred to as a "Little Deptford" (45). By the end of the century this image of the municipality had become entrenched with "Annandale recognized as a working mans suburb and Balmain principally a working mans suburb" (46)

By 1910 the various suburbs were characterized; Balmain was a large populous suburb, the home of the ship building industry. Glebe Point was a favoured suburb (Glebe was not mentioned) and Leichhardt was noted for its fine public buildings (47). The industrial character of some areas caused it to be "despised" by outsiders but the strong sense of place engendered in its residents caused it to be defended on its picturesque qualities, cheap accommodation and closeness to the city (48). The working class tag has also engendered, at least for most of its life, a "battler" image of honest workers often supporting themselves against the rest of society. This sense of exclusivity has remained in places to the present day although it is now based on an ethic of "chicness" for example at Balmain and Glebe.

39

Sport has also played a major role in forming a local identity particularly when clubs took the name of a suburb and attracted strong local support and patronage. In the l850s and l860s the current Gladstone Park was used as a pigeon shooting ground although an earlier one had existed near the later Town Hall site (49). The evolution of greater leisure hours during the l870s,principally the half Saturday holiday, encouraged the greater development of and participation in sport.

wa~er sports have long been associated with Balmain; this has been explained by local commentators as a result of locals always requiring a boat to get about. It might also be explained by the lack of organized playing fields until later reclamation projects created parks which could be used for such activities.

"In this way almost every second resident belonged to some local rowing club or other. The late Mr Howard, a pioneer resident of Balmain, is said to have been the first winner of a silver cup for rowing in Australian waters. The race was for whale boats and was rowed in 1838 ...

"Everybody in sailing circles knows of the Balmain Regatta which has an unbroken record of 65 years always held on the King's Birthday. The first Balmain regatta took place as far back as 1849. It soon became a national event ... Many years ago this regatta was held on the waters of Johnstons Bay and Peacock Point was the favourite resort of the spectators but for some considerable time the western side of Balmain has proven more suitable. Balmain for a number of years has possessed two strong and well conducted rowing clubs as well as a number of sailing clubs. In local rowing circles it is always remembered with pride that the retired champion sculler of the world, William Beach, was a member and always rowed in the colours of the Balmain club while many of the first class scullers ... were members of the Balmain Enterprise Rowing Club which was originally called the Balmain Working Mens Rowing Club. The Balmain Dinghy Club and the Balmain Amateur Sailing Club are both flourishing institutions... The Johnstones Bay Sailing Club ... was at one time the

40

premier open boat sailing club of Australasia ... The Balmain district has produced many good cricketers and footballers while the Balmain and Gladstone Park Bowling Clubs are old and well established institutions." (50)

Glebe Rowing Club opened in 1879 Leichhardt Rowing Club was established in 1887; it claimed to be the first democratically based group. Prior to that time rowing had been segregated on the basis of class, the working man said to have the advantage because of his muscular development (51).

The first swimming baths in the harbour were established at Balmain. These were formed by the Council in 1883 and were known as Elkington. Later the name became Dawn Fraser Swimming Baths after one of the many famous sporting figures to come from this suburb. Leichhardt by the early years of the twentieth century was also famous for its sporting facilities including a magnificent park and swimming baths, cricket oval and sports grounds (52). Glebe also has had a strong association with watersports although, despite lobbying, it never gained its own swimming baths. The Snails Bay Amateur Sailing Club was formed at Birchgrove in 1911 • The Harold Park Trotting Track was formed in 1902 in Glebe.

Rugby Union was established in Balmain by of the nineteenth century. The team were (53). Rugby League was established as a it was allied to the rising working class

the last quarter premiers in 1874 code in 1907 and movement.

Cricket clubs had been established at Balmain and Glebe by 1857 but by the 1880s a highly organized localised system of clubs was in operation. Success in sport became a matter of local pride. District cricket competitions were introduced in 1893 and Glebe participated in the first year. Leichhardt entered in 1894-5 and Balmain in 1897 (54). In the 1920s Leichhardt even possessed a baseball team.

The strong working class ethic and sense of community support is strongly expressed by the establishment and provision of facilities by the community for its own use;

"Balmain has been built up largely by working men who have from time to time formed the main body of residents and it is due to the credit of the people that not only has Balmain stood out prominently in the sporting world but education facilities for the adults and the young people of the district have always been provided. As far back as

41

1856 the Balmain School of Arts was established ... But not only did the Balmain people establish a School of Arts but a working mens institute for the purpose of moral, social and intellectual improvement was brought into existence in 1865 in a very unpretentious way ... But not only have sport and education been well maintained in Balmain but the distance from the city also compeLLea tne people to provide for the treatment of the sick. and wounded. Especially was this necessary with such large works in full swing around Balmain. So in 1884 Balmain cottage Hospital was established." (55)

This public identity has persisted to the present day. In 1983 it was written that;

"The people of Balmain are traditionally portrayed as having a strong sense of local identity and pride. They are said to be tough, cheerful and self dependent and that this might have something to do with peninsularity .... Henry Bellarum put it another way ... The greatest religion you could have was to be born in Balmain." (56)

other organisations were formed which helped to forge a strong sense of community. The Volunteer Corps was established· during the 1860s as a means of self defence against perceived threats; it also acted as a means of establishing useful social connections amongst members. In 1869 Glebe mustered sixty three men and Balmain sixty-six (57) •

2.4.5 The Built Environment - a Public Persona

The built environment has considerably added to a public "persona" associated with the municipality. Even from the earliest settlement specific types were associated with the developing suburbs; "tenements", "dockyards", "genteel family residence", warehouses", "wool sheds" were all cited in early nineteenth century advertisements as being specifically suited to the types of areas they were to be built in.

By the mid nineteenth century Leichhardt housed a juxtaposition of hovels and great houses, images that were used to characterize particular areas. The fine public buildings which were erected during the later years of the nineteenth century were physical symbols which represented

--------------------------~----------- ---- -- -

42

the municipal progress made by the various suburbs within the locality.

Glebe and Forest Lodge were renowned during the last century for their fine residences, Forest Lodge specially noted as a well laid out suburb. Annandale was famed for being the design of one man, Reuss. Glebe and Forest Lodge were characterized by "wide streets, good shops, public buildings and pretty villas" (58). Balmain was characterized by its industrial complexes such as Morts Dock although some "very pretty residences" were located in some areas (59). Leichhardt was known for Callan Park. Hotels were a particular feature of most suburbs as befits strong working class areas.

During the early years of the twentieth century the situation had not much changed although Leichhardt had come to be known for its fine public buildings and major thoroughfares (60). Balmain was acknowledged to have areas that were "not very inviting" although, away from the industrial areas "pretty houses nestle in delightful gardens which would not disgrace the more aristocratic suburbs" (61).

The picturesque qualities of some areas began to be established in the public mind from this early time. The odd juxtaposition of quaint houses and industrial landscapes with harbour views was cherished by some;

"The exquisite waterviews, the quaint water ways, the characteristic houses nestling in old established gardens, the busy shipping and the sudden alterations of crowded city life with green cliffs covered with the original bush made that suburb a place of all others to live .. " (62)

By 1918 Annandale was firmly established as a respectable residential area, the better areas described in terms of their environment. It had two fine streets;

" they are both wide streets, have ornamental trees, well kept roads and contain fine residences. The elite of the suburb reside along these streets and there are quite a lot of homes worth considerably over 2000 pounds along them." (63)

In addition to this elite area of residences it had a fine park, splendid shopping facilities and

"the people too seem to be a very contented lot living in this locality as

43

a couple of estate agents in the suburb informed us that they had not had a house to let ~n Annandale itself for months and that it is a rare thing to have one on their books for that suburb." (64)

The industrial concerns were termed huge and well laid out and houses ranged from a three room plus kitchen weatherboard cottage at the lower end of the market to a ten roomed gentleman brick residence (65).

At the same time Balmain and Rozelle were described entirely in terms of the vast industrial concerns and the several thousands who lived in the area because of its accessibility to their work place.. Shopping facilities were excellent; '''commodities could be bought not only as cheap as town, but in some cases cheaper." (66) The area was said to be magnificently supplied with public buildings and parks.

"Types of residence are very mixed in Balmain and Rozelle. In parts there are quite a lot of weatherboard cottages as well as the old fashioned row of brick cottages whilst in some parts, especially round Rozelle, modern brick cottages are plentiful with, ~ere and there, a bungalow effect. There are also a few magnificent types of old time residences at Balmain." (67)

The dichotomy that existed in Glebe was described as the very large industrial and manufacturing centre for which houses were to let very cheaply surrounding it and the "very fine types" of residences in· Glebe Point, a very fashionable part containing elegant homes. A few boardinghouses were noted in Glebe Point (68).

Leichhardt was described in terms of its sporting facilities, public buildings and shopping facilities (69). During the mid 1'930s developments in the built environment have been a source of civic pride and used to represent the progressiveness of the area. For example in 1935 the improved sanitation of Balmain was considered to be particularly important, tagging the area as "a health suburb". Improved buildings were noted;

"Of late years some very fine types of dwelling houses and factories have been erected ... the old type of verandah and balconies in the main thoroughfares ... have now become a thong of. the past, having been demolished and- in their place modern street cantilever awnings

44

have been erected which has greatly added to the appearance of the business portion of the municipality." (70)

The new population which arrived since the sixties has come to appreciate the qualities of the built environment and wish to protect them as a significant element of the environmental heritage of the suburbs. It is interesting to note, though, that there was concern in some areas that this would be translated into an artificial "trendiness" more suited to other "gentrified suburbs"; "there is a strong consensus ... that Glebe must not become another Paddington" (71).

45

Footnotes to Section 2.4

1. Leichhardt Municipal Council Jubilee History of Leichhardt 1871 - 1921., 17 2. Balmain Almanac 1878., 5 3. Solling, Max "Running the Suburbs" Leichhardt Historical Journal No 15 1986., 36 4. Bailliere NSW Gazetteer 1866., 21 5. Leigh, S.T. Handbook 1867., 59 6. Leichhardt Council The Jubilee History of Leichhardt 1871 - 1921., forward 7. SoIling, M. Op Cit., 42 8. Bailliere NSW Gazetteer 1866., 21 9. SoIling, Max Op Cit., 37 10. Ibid., 233 11. IliTd., 36 12. Australasian Handbook 1876., 125 13. Australasian Handbook 1879., 124 14. SoIling, Max Op Cit.,37 15. Australasian Handbook 1883, 196 16. Ibid., 213 17. IliTd., 221 18. Australasian Handbook 1887., 216 19. Ibid., 1888., 194 20. Ibid., 1889., 206 21. Ibid., 1891., 185 22. IliTd. 23. Hanson Geographical Encyclopedia of NSW 1892., 24. Australasian Handbook., 1893.m, 153 25. Ibid., 1894., 157 26. IliTd., 1895 27. Ibid., 1897., 28. SOUVenir to Commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the Incorporation of the Municipality of Balmain 1860 - 1910., 59 29 Ibid •. ,63 30. SOUVenir to Commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the Incorporation of the Municpality of Balmain 1860 - 1910 .. , 73 31. Souvenir Parramtta Road Grand Shopping Carnival., 21 32 SoIling, Max. Loc Cit. 33. Ibid 40 34. Ibid., 38 35. SOUVenir to Commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the Incorporation of the Municipality of Balmain., 69 36. Bailliere NSW Gazetteer 1866., 21 37. Australasian Handbool 1876., 125 38. Ibid., 136 39. AUStralasian Handbook 1879., 124 40. Australasian Handbook 1883., 221 41. Ibid., 1887., 216 42. Ibid., 1891., 200 43. Ibid., 1895 44. Ibid., 189i., 165 45. Sale notice Balmain SMH 28.10.1840

46

46. Samuel, H.J. How to Know Sydney., 1895., 40 47. Wilson Street Directory 1908-9., 133., 202, 243. 48. "What Will People Think" SMH 22.6.1910 49. Progress of the Suburbs" SMH 25.3.1914 50. Ibid. 51. SOlling,m. Op Cit., 40 52. Harris Where to Live An ABC Guide to Sydney.,125 53. Reynolds, P. "Up the Tigers" The First Seventy Yers of the Balmain Football Club Leichhardt Historical Journal No. 7 1978., 16 54. So~ling, Max Loc Cit 55. Ibid. 56. Stephens, T. Larrikin Days., 66 57. SoIling, Max, Op Cit., 37 58. The Grosvenor Hotel Vistors Guide to Sydney and Suburbs., c.1890., 76 59. Samuel, H.J. How to Known Syndey., 40 60. Wilson Street Directory 1908-9., 243 61. "What Will People Think" SMH 22.6.1910 62. "Beautifl Balmain" SMH 29.6.1910 63. Harris, M.A. Where to Live ABC GUide to Sydney., 38 64. Ibid. 65. Ibid. 66. Ibid., 45 67. Ibid., 46 68. Ibid., 106 69. Ibid., 125 70. "A Health Suburb" The Link 28 Nov 1935., 2 70. "Why Sell of the Glebe lands Now" SMH 10.2.1976

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Tramways of Sydney Transit Press. 1979.

Sydney City of Suburbs NSW University Press. 1982

Nineteenth Century Sydney Essays in Urband History Sydney University Press. 1978.

Sydney Takes Shape Doak Press. 1978.

Sydney and Suburbs A History and Description A.H. and A.W. Reed. 1981.

Subterranean Sydney Reed. 1982.

The Jubile History of Leichhardt Leichhardt Municipal Council 1921

Annual Reports of the Health and Building Section 1949 - 1981

Council

Leichhardt Profile of Populatio and Dwellings Muncipal 1981 Council

Leigh, S. T. The Handbook to Sydney and Suburbs" S. T. Leigh and Co. 1867

Leong, K. "Broughton Hall Austenham" Leichhardt Historical Journal No. 13, 1984. 3ff

Lynch, L. "T. S. Mort, His Dock and Balmain Labour" Nineteenth Century Sydney Essays in Urban History (Ed M. Kelly) Sydney University Press. 1978

Macdonnell, F. "Bidura the Home that Blacket Built" Leichhardt Historical Journal No. 12, 1983, 3ff

Macdonell, F. The Glebe:Portraits and Places Ure Smith. 1975.

Nicholls, G.

Norman,

Park, R.

Pollon, F.

Powell, C.

Prout, J. S.

Reynolds, P. Irving, R.

Reynolds, P.

Reynolds, P.

"Fowler Potteries 1837 - 1975" Heritage No. 1 December 1984., 7ff

Historical Notes on the Glebe

The Companion Guide to Sydney Collins. 1973

The Book of Sydney Suburbs Angus and Robertson. 1988.

A River Revived The Parramatta NSW University Press. 1987.

Sydney Illustrated J.S. Prout. 1843.

Balmain in Time The Balmain Association. 1971

"Up The Tigers: The First 70 Years of the Balmain Football Club" Leichhardt Historical Journal No. 7, 1978. 16ff

"Peacock, Weston, Pearson and Paul. How Suburbanisation Began in Balmain" Leichhardt Historical Journal No.12, 1983. 4ff

Reynolds, P. "From Darling Street Wharf to Simmons Point"

Leichhardt Historical Journal No.12, 1983. 6ff

Reynolds, P. "From Nicholson street to Chapman's Slipway" Leichhardt Historical Journal No.13, 1984. 9ff

Reynolds, P. Gladstone Park: The Pigeon Ground Balmain Places 3 Architectural Histroy Research Unit University of NSW. 1986

Reynolds, P. Birchgrove and Balmain North Balmain Walks 2 Architectural History Research Unit University of NSW. 1987

Reynolds, P. Old Balmain Balmain Walks 1 Architectural History Research Unit University of NSW. 1987

Reynolds, P. Morts Dock Origins and Changes Balmain Places 1

Roberts, A.

Architectural History Research Unit University of NSW. 1987

"The Annandale Gates Re-Erected" Leichhardt Historical Journal No. 7, 1978. 9ff

Samuel, H. J. How to Known Sydney 1895

Spearritt, P. Sydney Since the Twenties Hale and Iremonger. 1978.

Stephens, T. O'Neill, A.

Larrikin Days 100 Years of Growing Up in an Australian Suburb Nicholson Street Public School Parents and Citizens Association. 1983.

Stephensen, P. The History and Description of Sydney Kennedy, B. Harbour

Waugh, J.

Reed. 1980.

The Strangers Guide to Sydney" James William Waugh. 1861.

Historical Sketch of New South Wales Facsimile Reprint of an extract from the "Picturesque Atlas of Australasia" 1886 Lansdowne Press. 1974

"Leichhardt Post Office: 1881 - 1914"

Wells

Wickman, W. Greem, B.

News Articles

Leichhardt Histerical Jeurnal Ne. 7, 1978. 14ff

Geegraphical Dictienary ef the Australian Celenies 1848 Sydney. 1848.

Leichhardt An Era in Pictures The Macleay Museum 1982

Sale netice estate ef Granmere SMH 30.5.1840

Sale netice Balmain Peint SMH 11.5.1840

Sale netice Balmain Peint SMH 28.10.1840

Sale netice Balmain SMH 3.5.1841

"Waterview Bay Balma1n" SMH 14.12.1850

"The Pregress ef Ba'lmain" The Sun 30.11.1911

"What Will Peeple Think" SMH 22.6.1910

"Beautiful Balmain" SMH 29.6.1910

"Leichhardt Past and present" Evening News 8.2.1912

"Pregress of the Suburbs - Balmain" SMH 21.3.1914, 28.3.1914, 4.4.1914

"balmain great Industrial Centre" Evening News 22.19.1917

"Balmain frem Anether Angle" SMH 8.3.1924

"Will Black wattles Bleem in Blackwattle Bay" SMH 26.9.1970

Maps and Plans

Woolcott- & Clarke

Miscellaneous

"Why Sell off the Glebe Lands Now" SMH 10.2.1976

Suburbs of History The Echo 1890-91

Western Suburbs Courier 19 July 1989., 9, 11

"Evils of Slum Areas" Labour Daily 20 November 1935

"A Social Survey by W.S. Jevons" SMH 30 Nov. 1929., 13

Map of the City of Sydney 1854 ML

Australasian Handbook 1872 - 1906

Balmain Almanac 1878

Report of the Royal Commission for the Improvement of the City of Sydney 1909

Souvenir Parramatta Road Grand Shopping Carnival 1913

ML News Clippings Sydney Suburbs - Balmain, Glebe, Annandale, Forest Lodge, Leichhardt.

NSW votes and Proceedings VOL IV On the Conditions of the Working Classes, 1859

Local History Collection Leichhardt Municipal Library