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WP 2: Selection of the textile substrates and chemicals
SETAS
WP 2: Selection of the textile substrates and chemicals
In the BISCOL, project will be focused on the dyeing industry and a new dyeing
process for the bioconversion of raw materials into competitive eco‐friendly final
products.
To reach this scope different expertise's partners of consortium will be combined
WP2 is the first technological work package which lead to decisions concerning target
dyes to biosynthesized, textile fibers to dye and auxiliaries to optimize dyeing process
Duration: M1 to M8
Partecipant no. Contributions of this participant Hours
2: NTT Collection of the data provided by the industrial actors. 350
3: KING Providing of technical and market data on the dyestuffs usedby the company and on the volume of textile treated.
290
4: WET Providing data on potential raw material for dye synthesis andon existing ecocolorants.
240
5: SETAS Providing technical and commercial data & samples aboutthe textile dyes and auxiliaries used in dyeing process.• Selection of the textile substrates.• The defining of the role of textile auxiliaries220Providing technical and commercial data about the auxiliariesused in dyeing process
220
6: ACHIMO Providing technical and commercial data about the auxiliariesused in dyeing process
320
WP‐2 Role and contributions of each participant in this work package
Task 2.1 – Selection of the textile substratesAccording to market values and to the data available at the end‐users (KING) three
textile substrate to be used as target products within BISCOL were selected. The
following parameters are considered for the selection of the textile fibers
1. amount of fibers that has to be treated in the last 2 years
2. market data about fiber production in Europe and/or in the Global Market.
Conclusion
We selected;
1. wool as first fiber to be used in BISCOL project. As wool is one of the most used fiber
in Prato district, and as its environmental impact is lower than other fiber
2. cotton as second fiber because it is the most important and used natural fiber
3. a man‐made fiber, because it is reported that it has a lower environmental impact
than cotton due to the lack of cultivation step
Task 2.2 – Selection of the dyestuff and auxiliaries
For the selection of the dyes (The different dyestuff classes – such as reactive dyes;
direct dyes; acid dyes; etc. – ) used for Textile Industry ,the following factors were
important
1. Used by the end‐users in the last two year
2. Their EU market values for the selection of the classes for the bio‐synthetized dyes.
3. Dye fixation levels
4. Mutagenic, carcinogenic, and allergenic effects
5. International labour cost in the textile industry
Task 2.2 – Selection of the dyestuff and auxiliaries
To overcome many dyeing problems the dyeing auxiliaries were investigated
Leveling agents to improve the solubilisation of the dyestuffs
1. Polyacrylic acid for co‐polymers
2. Surfactants.
Non‐ionic
Anionic
Cationic
Amphoteric
A report including all the details concerning the chemical structure of the selected
chemicals (both dyestuffs and auxiliaries) and it will be used as guide book for the
production of the bio‐dyes.
Task 2.2 – Selection of the dyestuff and auxiliaries
For the selected dyestuffs, a list of auxiliaries were produced and the role of each
chemicals were defined in order to provide the consortium with a complete
description of the dyeing processes.
Exhaustion dyeing from an aqueous bath with dyes are considered in the BISCOL
framework.
An Acid dyeing on WOOL will be important in the project
Thank you