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wool processing
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Greasy (raw) wool is removed from the sheep, pressed into large bales according to its quality, transported to the wool buyer and sold to a processor.
Worsted processing uses longer wool fibres, includes more stages and produces higher-quality yarn than the woollen system.
Worsted yarn is used to make lightweight fabrics and materials for garments, such as business suits, dresses, sports clothing and underwear.
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From farm to fashion— worsted processing
Raw wool
WORSTED PROCESSING
Carding
The greasy wool is scoured (cleaned) to remove any contaminants — dirt, lanolin (grease) and vegetable matter (plant material).
Cleaning the wool
Worsted processing turns the clean wool into a ‘top’ or ‘combed sliver’.
Top making
More information, images and videos showing woollen and worsted processing can be found: www.woolmark.com/learn-about-wool
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Gilling
Combing
Knitting and weaving
Drawing Spinning
Clean wool in the worsted process is removed from the carding machines as a single thick sliver of fibres.
Combing removes any vegetable matter and shorter fibres to produce a top.
Knitting machines join yarns together with interlocking loops to form knitted fabric.
Weaving looms interlace yarns, usually at right angles to each other to form woven fabric.
Drawing reduces the thickness of the wool top by about 40 times to make a fine roving suitable for spinning.
Spinning draws the roving out to about 20 times its original length and twists it to make yarn strong enough for knitting or weaving.
Gilling blends slivers and draws the combined slivers out to increase uniformity.
auction roomwool storewool truckwool balegreasy woolshearing
8 knitted fabric
woven fabric
9 10Worsted fabric can be dyed a wide range of colours at various stages of processing.
Woven fabrics are cut and sewn together to form garments, while knitwear pieces are ‘linked’ together to produce a final garment. After pressing (ironing) the garments are labelled so consumers know how to care for their new wool clothing.
Dyeing Finishing and making up