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INDEX
Volume 25 0 Issue 57 0 1983
Compiled by Patricia A. Fletcher
This issue comprises al1 of Volume 25
Mountains are listed by their official names and ranges; quotation marks indicate unofficial names. Ranges and geographic locations are also indexed. Unnamed peaks (e.g. Peak 2037) are listed following the range or country in which they are located.
All expedition members cited in major articles are included, whereas only the leaders and persons supplying information iti the Climbs and Expeditions section are listed.
Titles of books reviewed in this issue are grouped as a single entry under Book Reviews.
obit. Abbreviations used: Article: art.; Bibliography: bibl.; Obituary:
A
Abi Gamin (Garbwal Himalaya), 252-53 Abuelo (Patagonia), 209 Acay (Argentina), 206 Accidents: Annapuma, 240, 241-42;
Annapuma III, 239; Bhagirathi II, 253; Broad Peak, 271; Cho Oyu, 232; Everest, 8-14. 22-29, 227, 228, 229-30; Gasherbrum II, 269-70, 271; Gongga Shari,, 291-92; K2, 273, 295-96; Kuksar, 283; Kun, 265; Langtang Lirung, 235; Makalu, 220; Manaslu, 236, 237; Nanga Parbat, 284, 288; Nun, 263. Porong Ri, 295; Shivling, 257
Aconcagua (Argentina), 206-7 Adela (Patagoma), 209 AdrSpach (Czechoslovakia), 129-3 1 “Aene Pinnacle” (Sierra Nevada,
California), 155 Africa, 216 Aguado, Pace, 209 Adefroide (Ecrins Massif, France), 214 Alai Range (USSR), 298
Alaska, arts., 77-80, 81-86, 87-92, 93-97, 98-101; 139-52
Alaska Range (Alaska), arts.. 87-92, 93-97; 139-48, 149-50
Alaska Range (Alaska): Peak 9050. See Broken Tooth. Peak 11300, 148
Aleta de Tiburbn (Patagonia), 212 Alfred Wegener Peninsula (Greenland),
183-84 Alligator Rock (Rocky Mountain
National Park, Colorado), 171 Allison, Stacy, 30-34 Alpamayo (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
192, 194 “Alpe Adria.” See Greenland, Peak 3270. Altai Mountains (USSR), 298-300 Altar Group (Ecuador), 184 Amadablam (Nepal Himalaya), an.,
30-34; 222 American Alpine Club, The: Blue Ridge
Section. 344; Cascade Section, 344; New Ybrk Section, 345
American Medical Research Expedition to Everest, scientijic articles on, 230
Amma, So, 247
353
THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1983
Ancohuma (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 203 Andes (South America), archaeology,
art., 54-67 Andrews, Edmund D., 40-47 Andrew% Rosie, 214-15 Angmagssalik (Greenland), 183 Annapuma (Nepal Himalaya), 240-42 Annapuma II (Nepal Himalaya), 239 Annapuma III (Nepal Himalaya), 239-40 Annaourna IV (Neual Himalava), 239 Annapurna South <Nepal Himalaya), 243 Antarctica, 213 Anthoine, J. V. (MO.), 259 Anton Goering (Mtrida, Sierra Nevada
de, Venezuela), 184 Anyemaqen (Kunlun Mountains, China),
292 Apacheta (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz,
Bolivia), 205 Apts, Eduard, 246 Arctic, 175-79 Argentina, 59-61, 206-7, 209-l 1 Arias Guillem, 239 Arko, Vojslav, 209-10 Artesonraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
187, 194, 195 Asgard, Mount (Baffin Island), 179 Asia, 216-97 Assinibiune, Mount (Rocky Mountains,
Canada), 175 Atoroma (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz,
Bolivia), 205 - “Atoroma, Piramide de” (Cordillera
Quimsa Cruz, Bolivia), 205 Atun Pace (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),
199 Audoubert, Louis, 228-29, 236-37 Axt, Wolfgang, 246 Ayallaco. See Khala Cruz. Aymerich, Pere, 236
B
Baffin Island (Canada), 178-79 Baffin Island: Peak 2000, 179; Peak
2400, 178-79; Peak 3800, 179; Peak 4cO0, 179
Bago, Mount (Sierra Nevada, California), 153
Baintha Brakk II. See Ogre II. Balconies (Pinnacles National Monument,
California), 162 Balmat, Bernard, 187 Balmat, Jean-Paul, 237 Bamba Dhura (Garhwal Himalaya), 249
Banks, Gordon, 268 Barbeau, Mount (British Empire Range,
Ellesmere Island), 175, 177 Barendregt, Jaap. 263 Barker, Richard, l-7 Barrard. Maurice, 270-71 Barrera. Humberto, 213 Bartlett, Alan, 154, 163-65 Baruntse (Nepal Himalays) 221 Bass. Richard, 8-14 --” Bates. Robert H., 317-18 Batian. See Kenya, Mount. Baxter-Jones, Roger, 35-39 Bear Creek Spire (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), 155 Bear Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),
159 Bear Peak (Front Range, Colorado), 166 Becher, Gianni Pais, 180 Be&, Dugan, 69-72 Beckey, Fred. 48-53, 148-49, 153-54,
174 Beghin, Pierre, 219 Bell Buttress (Boulder Canyon,
Colorado), 170 Belukha (Altai Mountains, USSR),
298-300 Belvis, Lluis, 228 Berger, Hans, 224 Bernstein, Jeremy, 318-19 Betancourt , Jose, 184 Bettembourg, George% 203 Bhagirathi (Garhwal Himalaya), 253 Bhagirathi II (Garhwal Himalaya), 253 Bhagirathi 111 (Garhwal Himalaya), 253,
256 Bhattachatya, Debabratra, 262 Bhattarai, Kishore, 245 Bhoir, Neeta, 260-61 Bhora, Gopal Singh, 244 Bhrigupanth (Garhwal Himalaya), 259 Bhrikuti (Nepal Himalaya), 245-46 Big White Peak. See Longpo Gang. Bilczewski, Adam, 220 Black, David, 81-86 Black Canyon of the Gunnison (Elk
Range, Colorado), 171 Black Widow Slab (Boulder Canyon,
Colorado), 168 Blackbum, Mount (Wrangell Mountains,
Alaska), nrr.. 98-101 Blob Rock (Boulder Canyon. Colorado),
168 Blockhouse (Cascade Mountains,
Washington), 152
354
“Blossom” (British Empire Range, Ellemere Island), 177-78
Boardman. Peter D., 22-29; death of, 27 Bodkhona (Fanskiye Gory Mountains,
USSR), 298 Bojohaghur Duanasir (Karakoram Range,
Pakistan), 280 Bolivia, 202-5 Bonington, Christian, nn., 22-29 Book (Rocky Mountain National Park,
Colorado), 17 1 BOOK REVIEWS
Alpine Club Library Catalogue, The Alpine Club, 329-30
An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England, Rick Wilcox, 327-28
Ascent: The Spiritual and Physical Quest of Willi Unsoeld, Lawrence Learner, 317-18
Everest: A Mountaineering History, Walt Unsworth, 303-6
Everest the Cruel Way, Joe Tasker, 306-8
50 Years of Alpinism, Riccardo Cassin, 322-23
Filming the Impossible, Leo Dickinson, 314-15
Great Expedition Hoaxes, David Roberts, 323-24
High Adventure: A Biography of Reinhold Messner, Ronald Faux, 318-19
High Altitude Physiology, John B. West, editor, 316
High Altitude Physiology and Med- icine, Walter Brendel and Roman A. Zink. editors, 316
Hypoxia: Man at High Altitude, John Sutton, Norman Jones and Charles Houston, editors, 316-17
K2: Mountain of Mountains, Reinhold Messner and Alessandro Gogna, 312-14
Kongur: China’s Elusive Summit, Chris Bonington, 310-l 1
Man at High Altitude, Donald Heath and David Reid Williams, 315-16
Mountains of North America, Fred Beckey, 325-26
On Edge: The Life & Climbs of Henry Barber, Chip Lee with David Roberts and Kenneth Andrasko, 320-22
Oxygen Transport to Human Tissues, Jack A. Loeppky and Marvin L. Riedesel, editors, 317
Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, Ed Webster, 326-27
Surviving Denali: A Study of Accidents on Mount McKinley, 1910-1982, Jonathan Waterman, 331-32
To Stand at the Pole: The Dr. Cook- Admiral Peary North Pole Contro- versy, William R. Hunt, 324-25
Total Alpinism, RenC Desmaison, 3 19-20
Traprock: Rock Climbing in Central Connecticut, Ken Nichols, 330-3 1
INDEX
The Trekker’s Guide to the Himalaya and Karakoram, Hugh Swift, 328
Trekking in the Himalayas, Stan Armington, 329
A Walk in the Sky: Climbing Hidden Peak, Nicholas Clinch, 308-10
When Men and Mountain Meet: The Explorers of the Western Himalayas 1820-75, John Keay, 311-12
Yosemite Climbs, George Meyers, 326 Bouchard, John, 319-20 Boulder Canyon, (Front Range, Col-
orado), 166, 168, 170-71 Boundary Peak 74 (Coast Mountains,
British Columbia), 174 Boyd, Dan, 8-14 Bracht, Biff, 48-53 Braithwaite, Paul (Tut), 35-39 Breitenbach, Mount (Lost River Range,
Idaho), 165 Bridwell, James D., l-7 British Columbia, 173-75 British Empire Range (Ellesmere Island),
175-78 British Empire Range: Peak 5915, 178 Broad Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),
271, 272, 273 Broad Peak North (Karakoram Range,
Pakistan), 272 Broderick, Mount (Yosemite, California),
163 “Broken Tooth” (Alaska Range), 148 Brook, Elaine, 35-39 Brower, David, 337-39 Brujo Group (Chille), 207 Bubuli-MO-Tin (Karakoram Range,
Pakistan), 280-81 Buhler, Carlos, 184 Burger, David L., 152
355
THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1983
Burgess, Adrian, 224 Burrieza, Daniel, 205 Buscaini, Silvia Metzeltin, 209, 211, 235
“Chaipiurco” (Cordillera Utubamba, Peru), 201, 202
C
Cabinet Mountains (Montana), 165 Cachi (Argentina), 206 Calcagno, Gianni, 267 Calegari, Santino, 199 California, urr.. 110-12; 153-65 Callis, Patrik, 48-53 Campa (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru), 199 Campese, Ostilio, 202-3, 267 Canada, 173-75 Candlestick Tower (Canyonlands National
Park, Utah), 165 Canyonlands National Park (Utah), 165 Caras (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 187 Carrington, Rab, 276 Carter, H. Adams, 296, 324-25 Carter, Madeleine. 346 Casarotto, Renato, 272 Cascade Mountains (Washington), 152-53 Cashan Este (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
187
Chand, Prem, 266 Changabang (Garhwal Himalaya), 25 l-52 Changtse (Tibet), 294 Chappaz, Xavier, 189 Charlotte Dome (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), 162 Chatrefou, Denis, 235 Chearoco (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 205 Checkerboard Rock (Rocky Mountain
National Park, Colorado), 171 Cheesmond, David Malcolm, 174-75 Cheney, Michael J., 217, 221-22, 224-25,
231-32, 235-36, 237, 239, 240, 242, 243, 245, 246, 247
Chile, 54-57, 59, 207, 209, 212-13 Chilkat Range (Alaska), 152 China, arts.. 40-47, 48-53; 290-97 China. See also Tibet. Chinchey (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 185 Chiquito Dome (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), 159
Cashmere Crags (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 152
Castellsague, Miquel, 252 Castle Rock (Boulder Canyon, Colorado),
166, 168 Castleton Tower (Utah), 166 Catalina (Patagonia), 2 12 Catantica (Cordillera Apolobamba,
Bolivia), 203 Cathedral Spire, Higher (Yosemite, Cal-
ifornia), 163 Cathedral Spires (Kichatna Mountains,
Alaska), arts., 77-80, 81-86; ascents of, 142
Caucasus (USSR), 300 Caughron. R. D., 326 Caulfield, Sharon, 40-47 Cauthom, Daniel, 148, 152 Cavesh (Cordillera Blanca. Peru). 187 CB 10 (Punjab Himalaya), 262 CB 13 (Punjab Himalaya), 262 CB 14 (Punjab Himalaya), 262 CB 31 (Puniab Himalava). 262 Ccapana (Cordillera Vii&m, Peru), 199 Chacraraju Este (Cordillera Blanca,
(Peru), 187, 192, 194 Chacraraju Oeste (Cordillera Blanca,
Peru), 192, 194
Chiring We (Garhwal Himalaya), 249-50 Cho Oyu (Nepal Himalaya), 232-33 Chogori. See K2. Cholatse (Nepal Himalaya), or?., 15-21;
231 Chopicalqui (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
189-92, 194, 195 Chopiraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
185 Chrome Dome (Boulder Canyon,
Colorado), 168 Chudy, Oto, 297-98 Chullunko (Cordillera Vilcabamba, Peru),
202 Chung, Keel-Soon, 238 Churen Himal (Nepal Himalaya), 247 Clark, Gary, 150 Clarke, Charles, 22-29 Clarke, Michael D., 269-70 Cleare, John, 297 Clevenger, Vem, 15-21, 1 IO-12 Climbing exchanges: Czechoslovakian,
art., 124-37 Climbing meets: France, 214;
Great Britain, 214-15 Coast Mountains (Alaska), 152 Coast Mountains (British Columbia),
173-74 Coast Mountains (British Columbia):
Peak 8170, 174 Cochran, George Van B., 178 Coffield, Dana, 40-47
356
Colonica, Craig, l-7 Colorado, 166-7 1 Colorado Mountain Club, The, 345 Comparat, Jacques, 212-13 Cordier, Patrick, 280-8 I Cordillera Apolobamba (Bolivia), 202-3 Cordillera Apolobamba: Peak 5340, 202;
Peak 5380, 202; Peak 5430, 202 Cordillera Blanca (Peru), art., 73-76;
62-64, 185-96 Cordillera Blanca: Peak 5200, 185-87;
Peak 5377, 185; Peak 5406, 185 Cordillera Central (Peru), 199 Cordillera Huayhuash (Peru), clrr.. 69-72;
196-97 Cordillera Negra (Pet-n), 64-65 Cordillera Occidental (Peru), 56, 64 Cordillera Ouimsa Cruz (Bolivia), 205 Cordillera duimsa Cruz: ‘Peak 5600,
205; Peak 5680, 205; Peak 5750, 205 Cordillera Raura (Peru), 197 Cordillera Real (Bolivia), 203-5; climbing
iflformrion, 204 Cordillera Real: Peak 5485, 205 Cordillera Urubamba (Peru), 20 l-2 Cordillera Vilcabamba (Peru), 202 Cordillera Vilcanota (Peru), 199 Cousteix, Guy, 232 Covington, Michael M., 144-46 Crags (Front Range, Colorado), 171 Crofoot, Jerry, 152 Crosson, Mount (Alaska Range), 146-47 Croucher, Norman, 297 Crystal Crag (Sierra Nevada, California),
159 Czechoslovakia, arr., 124-37
D
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, 345 Davila, Bemardo, 185 De, Arati, 262 Deborah, Mount (Alaska Range), 149-50 Decamp, Erik, 230 Delone (Altai Mountains, USSR), 300 Denali National Park (Alaska), 139-44;
ascents in. 142 Denz, William, 77-80 Devils Thumb (Coast Mountains, Alaska),
152 Devils Tower National Monument (Wyo-
ming), 166 Dharamsura (Punjab Himalaya), 262 Dhaulagiri (Nepal Himalaya), 246-47 Dhaulagiri II (Nepal Himalaya), 247
Dial, Roman, 149-50 Dietz, Richard, 296 Dionisi, Giuseppe, 180-81 Discovery Wall (Pinnacles National Mon-
ument, California), 162 Disteghil Sar (Karakoram Range, Pak-
istan), 280 Domenech, Bernard, 256 Donaldson, Greg, 159 Dorje Lhakpa (Nepal Himalaya), 234 Dossin, Eric, 189 Drhk, Slavek, 69-72 Duff, Malcolm, 224 Duggan, John E., 339-40 Dunagiri (Garhwal Himalaya), 252 Dunmire, William W., 336-37 Dunn, George, 8-14 Dushanbe (Pamits, USSR), 298
E
Eakin, James, 347-48 Ebert, James (Jim), 346-47 “Eboulis, Pointe des” (Patagonia), 213 Echevatia, Evelio, 206, 207 Ecrins, Dome de Neige des (Ecrins
Massif, France), 214 Ecrins Massif (France), 214 Ecuador, 184-85 Eggleston, Canick M., 345 Egmgio, Mount (Osterrieth Mountains,
Antarctica), 213 El Capitan (Yosemite, California), 162-63 Elbrus (Caucasus, USSR), 300 Eldorado Springs Canyon (Front Range,
Colorado), 166, 170 El&rico Principal (Patagonia), 211 Elephant Rock (Yosemite, California),
164 Elk Range (Colorado), 17 I Ellesmere Island (Canada), 175-78 Emerson, Richard M.. obit.. 337-39 Emmerich, Mount (Chilkat Range,
Alaska), 152 English, John, 73-76 “Enterprise” (British Empire Range,
Ellesmere Island), 175 Erard, Philip, 345 Errington, Allan, 175-78 Ershler, Philip, 8-14 Erwin, Tanyalee, 30-34 Espalda (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 203 Estes Park (Colorado), 17 1 Estiu, Ram&t, 290 Europe, 214-15
INDEX
357
THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL. 1983
Evans, George, obit., 335-36 Evans, John, 138 Everest (Nepal Himalaya), 138-39,
225-30; circumambulation of, art., l-7 Everest (Tibet), arts., S-14, 22-29;
292-94; circumambulation of, art., l-7
Garden of the Gods (Front Range, Colorado), 168
Garhwal (India), 249-61 Garhwal: Peak 6568, 260 Gasherbrutii. See Hidden Peak. Gasherbrum II (Karakoram Range,
F Pakistan), 269-71, 276
Gasherbrum IV (Karakoram Range, Fairview Dome (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), 110-11, 164 Fairweather, Mount (Fairweather Range,
Alaska), 150-51
Pakistan), 27 1
Fairweather Range (Alaska), 150-5 1 Fang (Nepal Himalaya), 242-43 Fanskive Gorv Mountains (USSR), 298 Fargeas, Robert, 265 Farthing Wall, West (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
Gaskill, Craig, art., 98-101 Gerhard, Robert A., 142 Geyer, Eduard, 294 Ghirardini, Ivan, 219 Gigante Grande (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz,
Bolivia), 205
ifornia), 164-65 “Felix” (British Empire Range, Ellesmere
Island), 175
Giller, Susan, art., 30-34 Gillette, Ned, art.. l-7; 310-11 Glacier Dome (Nepal Himalaya), 240 Glenwcod Surinas Canvon (Rockv Moun-
Film festivals: Peru, 195% Finger Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),
154 Fitz Roy (Patagonia), 209-11, 212 Flatirons (Front Range, Colorado), 166,
168, 170 Fletcher, Patricia A., 329-30 Font, Enrique, 236 Foraker, Mount (Alaska Range), 146-47;
tains, Colorado), 168 . Glidden. Jocelvn C.. 265-66, 333-34 Gloggner, Peter, 272, 273 Godfrey, Robert, 314-15 Gombu, Nawang, S-14 Gongga Shan (China), art.. 40-47; 290-92 Gordon, Adrian, 22-29 Goro de Hielo (Cordillera Real, Bolivia),
203
ascents of, 142 Forel, Mount (Greenland), 180 Fowler, Michael A., art., 73-76 Fraile Grande (Ecuador), 184 France, 214 Frances, Mount (Osterrieth Mountains,
Antarctica), 213 Freese, Lloyd, 173 Frey (Patagonia), 209 Front Range (Colorado), 166-68, 170-71 Furtner, Alois, 273 “Fury” (British Empire Range, Ellesmere
Island), 177 Fyffe, Allen, 256
G
Gosselin, Jean Michel, 270 Graber, Michael, arr.. 81-86 Gran Pilar. See Great Buttress. Grassi, Gian Carlo, 187, 197 Great Britain, 214-15 “Great Buttress” (Argentina), 207 Green, James, 236 Greenland, 1 SO-84 Greenland,: Peak 1100, 183; Peak 1400,
184; Peak 1420, 183; Peak 1580, 183; Peak 1600, 183-84; Peak 1750. 180; Peak 1833, 183; Peak 1850, 183; Peak 1900 (5234’), 180; Peak 1900 (6234’), 183; Peak 1922, 183; Peak 2000, 180; Peak 2010, 180; Peak 2050, 180; Peak 2080. 180: Peak 2350, 180: Peak 3000,
Gal&t (Argentina), 206 Gblfy, Robert, 210-11 Ganalo Peak (Punjab Himalaya), 289 Ganesh IV. See Pabil. Gan Ben Chen (Tibet), 294-95 Gangotri (Garhwal Himalaya), 261 Gangotri Ill (Garhwal Himalaya), 253 Gangstang (Punjab Himalaya), 262 Garda, France, 217
358
180; Peak 3270, 180 Griffin, Lindsay N., 203 Griffith, Jini, 30-34 Griffiths, Roger, 292 “Griper” (British Empire Range,
Ellesmere Island), 177 Grossan, Gerard, 247 Grow, Bob, 158-59 Guard, North (Sierra Nevada, California),
154
Guha, Kamal K., 231, 234, 237, 244, 245, 246, 257, 261, 266, 267
Guha, Samir Kumar, 252 Guillaumet (Patagonia), 21 I - 12 Gupta, Paritosh Das, 261 Gyalzen, Shetpa Dawa, 243-44
H
Hachindar Chhish (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 28 1
Hackett, Peter, 15-21, 139 Haemorrhage, Retinal, 113, I39 Haire, Curt, 148 Ham, Tak-Young, 219 Hancopiti (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 203 Hanuman (Garhwal Himalaya), 252 Hara, Makoto, 294 Harrington, Bob, 1 IO-1 1 Harrison, Carl, 170-71 Harrison, Tim, 111 Hart, Robert, 48-53 H&ter, Gunther, 244 Harvard Mountaineering Club, 346 Havens, Susan, 30-34 Hawley. Elizabeth, 217, 221-22, 224-25,
231-32, 235-36. 237, 239, 240, 242, 243. 245. 246. 247
Hayami, Kiyoshi. 281 Haydon Peak (Saint Elias Mountains,
Alaska), 151-52 “Hecla” (British Empire Range, Ellesmere
Island). 177 Helancoma (Cordillera Urubamba, Peru),
201, 202 Hendrickson, Thomas, 201 Herren, Erwin, 291-92 Herrligkoffer, Karl Maria, 284-86 Hesperus, Mount (Revelation Mountains,
Alaska), 148 Hesse, Mark, art., 87-92 Hidden Peak (Karakoram Range,
Pakistan), 268-69 Higashi, Yasuyuki, 281 Hieems. Thomas J.. arr., 1 IO-12 Hi&y, Peter, 247-48 Himachal Pradesh (India), 261-63 Himlung (Nepal Himalaya), 237 Hindu Kush (Pakistan), 276, 283, 289-90 Hixson, Edward G.. S-14 Hoaxes, art., 114-23 Hoey, Marty, S-14; death of, 11-13:
obit., 342-43 Hoffmann, Mount (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), I54
Hoffmann’s Turret (Sierra Nevada, Cal- ifornia), 154
Hoja (Patagonia), 212 Holmes, Steve, 179 Holmgren, Jack, 162 Holzel, Thomas, 229-30, 293-94. 306-S Homer’s Nose (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), 155 Hookey, Charles A., 263 Hore, Martin, 283 Horiskey, Joe, 8-14 Hoshina, Masayuki, 268 Houston, Charles S., 315-17 Houston, Richard C., obit., 336-37 Huacrantanca (Cordillera Urubamba,
Peru), 20 l-2 Huamanripa (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
185 Huamarypayoc (Cordillera Urubamba,
Peru), 201-2 Huandoy Este (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
194 Huandoy Norte (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
192, 195 Huantsan (Cordillera Blanca. Peru), 187 Huantsan Norte (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
187 Huascarln (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 187 Huascaran Norte (Cordillera Blanca,
Peru), 189 Huayanay V (Cordillera Vilcabamba,
Peru), 202 Humdinger Dome (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), 158 Hunter, Mount (Alaska Range), 147:
ascents of, 142 Huntington, Mount (Alaska Range),
ascents of, 142 Hupfauer, Siegfried, 292 Hurrel, Tim, 283 Huxley, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains,
Yukon Territory), 151
I
lcetield Ranges (Yukon Territory), 173 Idaho, 165 lllimani (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 203 lmbert, Fraqois, 247 Incas, art., 54-67 India, 216, 247-67 lnoue, Hiroshi, 235 lnoue, Yoshiyuki, 231 International Mountaineering Camps:
USSR, 298-300
359
“Intrepid” (British Empire Range, Ellesmere Island), 177
“Investigator” (British Empire Range, Ellesmere Island). 177
Iowa Mountaineers, 346-47 Irvine, Andrew Comyn, 293-94 lsaacs, Gary, 8-14 “ltalytinde” (Staunings Alps, Greenland).
181 lto, Tadao, 262 lto, TON, 295 ltten, Markus, 289
J Jaccoux, Claude, 266 Jacha Collo. See Jachacunocollo. Jachacunocollo (Cordillera Quimsa CNZ,
Bolivia), 205 Jacquenot. Patrick, 243 Janam. See Kishtwar Himalaya, Peak
6392. Jannu (Nepal Himalaya), 219 Jatunhuma (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),
199 Jatunmontepuncu (Cordillera Blanca,
Peru), 185 Jensen, Stephen Wayne, obit., 334 Jet+, Steven, 320-22 Jiazi (China), art., 48-53 Jirishanca (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),
69-72, 197 Joho, Lhaptshan. See Cholatse. Jogin (Garhwal Himalaya), 260-61 Jogin III (Garhwal Himalaya), 253,
260-6 I Johns, David, 98-101 Jones, Robert, 335-36 Joo, Si-Jeong, 235 Jose Palacios. Francisco, 196 Jukes, Thomas H., 308-10
K K2 (Karakoram Range, China), 295-96 K2 (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 273-74 K7 (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 268 Kabru Dome (Sikkim Hamalaya), 216-18 Kalabaland Dhura (Garhwal Himalaya),
249 Kalabaland Glacier (Garhwal Himalaya),
249-50 Kalanka (Garhwal Himalaya), 250-5 I Kamet (Garhwal Himalaya), 252-53 Kampf, Gtinter, 252
THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1983
Kamps, Bob, 110 Kanazawa, Ken, 246 Kanbe, Haruo, 237 Kaneko, Toshio, 218-19 Kang GUN (Nepal Himalaya), 237-38 Kang Yisay (Ladakh), 267 Kangchenjunga (Sikkim Himalaya),
217-18 Kangchungtse. See Makalu Il. Karakoram Range (China), 295-96 Karakoram Range (Pakistan), 268-88 Karl, Reinhard, death of, 232-33 Karyolung (Nepal Himalaya), 23 1 Kashmir (India), 263-66 “Kathryn Minaret” (Kichatna Mountains,
Alaska), 81-86 Kato, Koji, 234 Kato, Yasuo, 229-30 Katsumi, Yukio, 271 Katun Range (USSR), 298-300 Kayen, Robert, 162-63 Keamey, Shari, 30-34 Kekus, Nicholas, 257 Kelley, Barbara, 40-47 Kelley, Clinton M., obir.. 334-35 Kelley, Douglas A., art., 40-47 Kennedy, Michael, 331-32 Kenya, 216 Kenya, Mount (Kenya), 216 Kerns, Matt. 124-37 Keyhole Rock (Garden of the Gods,
Colorado), 168 “Khadga Dhura” (Garhwal Himalaya),
249 Khala CNZ (Cordillera Real, Bolivia),
205 Kharchakund (Garhwal Himalaya), 258-59 Khatang (Nepal Himalaya), 233 Khullar, D. K., 216 Kichatna Mountains (Alaska), arts.,
77-80, 81-86 Kichatna Spire (Kichatna Mountains,
Alaska), arts., 77-80, 81-86 Kichatna Spires. See Cathedral Spires. Kikuchi, Kaoru, 245 Kilimanjaro, Mount (Tanzania), 216 Kim, Ki-Heyg, 245 King, Judy, 334 Kirti Stambh (Garhwal Himalaya), 258 Kishtwar Himalaya (Kashmir), 263 Kishtwar Himalaya: Peak 6392, 263 Klausbruckner, Bruno, 180 Kligfield, Roy, 322-23 Klose, Dieter Hans, 152
360
INDEX
Kluane National Park (Yukon Territory), ascents in, 173
Koa Rong IV (Punjab Himalaya), 263 Kobayashi, Toshiaki, 229-30 Kommunizma (Pamirs, USSR), 298 Kondo, Yoshio, 294-95 Kongur (Kunlun Mountams, China), 296 Konishi, Masatsugu, 295 Komiszewski, Lech, 197 Korzhenevska (Pamlrs, USSR), 297-98 KraJfik, Jhn, 69-72 Kuksar (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 283 Kulhavv, Jhn, 69-72 Kumbhakama. See Jannu. Kun (Punjab Himalaya), 263-65, 266 Kunlun Mountains (China), 292, 296-97 Kunlun Mountains: Peak 20700, 297;
Peak 21750, 297 Kunyang Chhish (Karakoram Range,
Pakistan). 276 Kurczab. Janusz, 274 Kwangde (Nepal Himalaya), 222-24
L
Ladakh (India), 267 “Lady Franklin” (British Empire Range,
Ellesmere Island), 177 Laguna (Argentina), 207 Lamb Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),
164 Lamjung (Nepal Himalaya), 238 Landa, Angel, 289 Langshisha Ri (Nepal Himalaya), 235 Langtang Lirung (Nepal Himalaya), 235 Larson, Steven, 214 Lateo, Guillermo, 276 Latok (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 276 Latok II (Karakoram Range. Pakistan),
276 Lauper Bjerg (Greenland), 180 Lee, Jonathan, 296-97 Lehner, Michael C., 40-47 Lembert Dome (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), 111 Lenana (Kenya). 216 Lenin (Pamirs. USSR). 298 Lens Rock (Rocky Mountain National
Park, Colorado). 17 1 Leo Pargial (Punjab Himalaya), 261 “Leopold Dome.” See Sierra Nevada,
Peak 9011. Leversee, Dick. 155 Lhotse (Nepal Himalaya), 224 Lhotse Shar (Nepal Himalaya), 224
Liberty Cap (Yosemite, California), 163 Limaye, Vasant. 249-50 Lindsay, Roy F., 258-59 “Little Switzerland” (Alaska Range),
ascents in, 142 Liu, Mr., 40-47 Llihirini (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 203 Llullaillaco (Argentina), 206 Logan, Mount (Cascade Mountains,
Washington), 152 Logan, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains,
Yukon Territory), 173 Loggerhead Buttress (Yosemite, Cal-
ifornia), 164 Loki, Mount (Baffin Island), 179 Longpo Gang (Nepal Himalaya), 234 Longs Peak (Front Range, Colorado), 171 Lookem Campagne, Nicolaas van, 247 L6pez, Jerbnimo, 209 L6pez Diaz, Juan, 283 Loretan, Erhard, 286-88 Lost River Range (Idaho), 165 Low Profile Dome (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), 164 Lowe, Alex, 215 Lowe, Jeff, 222-24 Loyacjirca (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 194 Liidi, Heidi, 30-34, 231 LukeS, cestmir, 276 Lumpy Ridge (Rocky Mountain National
Park, Colorado), 168, 171 Luna, Antonio, 252
M
Macadam, David P., 178-79 Macchu Sutchi Cuchi (Cordillera Apolo-
bamba, Bolivia), 203 MacIntyre, Alexander, 35-39; death of,
241-42 Macquarie, Anne, 30-34 Mahghre, Bharat S., 253 Mahre, Dave, 8-14 Makalu (Nepal Himalaya), 219-21 Makalu II (Nepal Himalaya). 221-22 Mahn, Karl, 183-84 Mallory, George Herbert Leigh, 293-94 Manaslu (Nepal Himalaya), 236-37 Manda (Garhwal Himalaya), 260 Manda South. See Garhwal, Peak 6568. Mantis Peak (Cascade Mountains, Wash-
ington), 152-53 Manuel Anglada, Josep, 228 March, William, 227
361
Maria (Fanskiye Gory Mountains, USSR), 298
“Maritime Group” (British Empire Range, Ellesmere Island), 175-78
Markel, John, 48-53 Marmolejo (Chile), 207 Marts, Steve, 8-14 Mdscara (Patagonia), 212-13 Masherbrum (Karakoram Range,
Pakistan), 276 Matous, Ron, 325-26 Matron (Boulder Canyon, Colorado), 166,
170 Matsumoto, Ma&i, 263 Mazeaud, Pierre, 288 McArthur Peak (Saint Elias Mountains,
Yukon Territory), 173 McCabe, Stephen, 157-58 McCarty, Dougal, 48-53 Mclnally, Peter, 231 McKee, Anita, 73-76 McKinley, Mount (Alaska Range), arts.,
87-92, 93-97; 139-46; ascents of, 142 McKinley National Park. See Denali Na-
tional Park. McKinney, Stephen, l-7 Mear, Roger, 93-97 Medlicott Dome (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), 164 Merel, James, 151-52 MCrida, Sierra Nevada de (Venezuela),
184 Merriam, George R., 344 Meru North (Garhwal Himalaya), 257 MesariE, Vladimir, 238 Meteorology: Washington, Mount, art.,
103-9 Metzger, Michel, 228 Midway Rock (Eldorado Springs Canyon,
Colorado), 170 Millishqu II (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
73-76 Milluni (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 205 Mmya Konka. See Gongga Shan. Mirador de 10s Volcanes (Chile), 207 Miraly (Fanskiye Gory Mountains,
USSR), 298 Mituraju (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),
69-72 Mohling, Franz, obit., 333-34 Moitra, Asit Kumar, 262 Molenaar, Dee, 312-14 Monaghan, Geoffrey, 183
THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1983
Monolith, Mount (Tombstone Mountains, Yukon Territory), 173
Monster Tower (Utah), 166 Montana, 165 Moore, Terris, art.. 114-22; 323-24 Moose’s Tooth (Alaska Range). ascents
of, 142 I
Morado (Argentina), 206 Morales Amao, C&x, 195-96 Moro, Renato, 217-18 Morris, Bruce, 110-12 Morrison, Michael B., 73-76 Moses (Canyonlands National Park,
Utah), 165 Mountaineering, Solo: McKinley, art.,
87-92 Mountaineering, Winter: McKinley, art.,
93-97 Mountaineers. The, 348 Mousel, Francis, 194 Munemori, Yukio, 262 Murphy, Joseph E., art., 40-47 Museums: Peru, 195 Mustagh Ata (Pamirs, China), 297 Mustang (Nepal), 245-46
N
Nagatoshi, Hajime, 231 Nairz, Wolfgang, 232 Nakada, Shigeru, 236 Nakamura, lsao, 276 Nakase, Tsukasa, 239 Nam, Sun-Woo, 231 Nance Peak (Sierra Nevada, California),
159 Nanda Devi (Garhwal Himalaya), 250 Nanerersarpik (Greenland), 183 Nanga Pa&at (Punjab Himalaya), 283-88 Narita, Toshio, 281-83 Naslund, Gunnar, abit.. 339-40 Nava, Piero, 195 Nelson, James T., 153 Nepal, arts., l-7, 15-21, 30-34; 217-48 Nepal: Peak 29, 236; Peak 6300, 246 Nev&, Harald, 283 New Hampshire, art., 103-9 Ngozumba Kang (Nepal Himalaya), 232 Nielson, Larry, 8-14 Night Buttress (Glenwood &rings Can-
ion, Colorado), 168 . - Nilgiri Central (Nepal Himalaya), 245 Nilgiri North (Nepal Himalaya), 244-45 Ninashanca (Cordillera Huavhuash, Peru).
197
362
“Ninjeri.” See Punjab Himalaya (India), Peak 21800.
Niut Range (British Columbia), 174 Nix, Hans-Burkhard, 225 Noel Peak (Coast Mountains, British Co-
lumbia), 173-74 Noguer, Xavier, 239-40 Nolan, Ken, 334 Nolting, Richard M., an., 48-53 Nooksack Tower (Cascade Mountains,
Washington), 153 Norsketinde (Staunings Alps, Greenland),
181 “Norsketinde Dome” (Staunings Alps,
Greenland), 18 1 “Norsketinde Spire” (Staunings Alps,
Greenalnd). 181 “Norsketinde Teeth” (Staunings Alps,
Greenland), 181 Norte, Pica de1 (Cordillera Real, Bolivia),
203 Norte, Sierra de1 (Venezuela), 184 North Dome (Yosemite, California), 164 North Pole, 114-23 “North Star” (British Empire Range,
Ellesmere Island), 177 Northwest Territories, 175-79 Nottaris, Romolo, 221 Nottle, Craig, 25 l-52 Numbur (Nepal Himalaya), 231 Nun (Punjab Himalaya), 263, 265-66 Nunn, Paul, 276-80 Nuns (Canyonlands National Park, Utah),
165 Nuptse (Nepal Himalaya), 224-25 Nyka, J6zef. 197, 220-21, 273-74, 298
0
Obispo (Ecuador), 184 O’Brien, Michael F., 73-76 Ochoa, Carlos. 221 O’Connor, 8111, 15-21 Ocshapalca (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 187 Odier, Hubert, 276 Ogre II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),
276-80 Okada, Tsunenori, 260 Olson, Curtis, 165 Olton, Percy T., Jr., 341-42 Glz. Oswald. 232-33 Omi Kangri (Nepal Himalaya), 218-19;
altitude of, 218-19 Ophir Wall (Colorado), 168 Drolin, Michal, 210
INDEX
Ossola, Luigi, 196-97 Osterrieth Mountains (Antarctica), 213 Ostroski, Philip J., 327-28 Otani, Masaru, 233 Ottarosko Mountain (Niut Range, British
Columbia), 174 Owens, Lance S., 147
P
Pabil (Nepal Himalaya), 235-36 Pacco Loma (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),
199 Paine, Cuemo Principal de1 (Patagonia),
212, 213 Paine Group (Patagonia), 212-13 Pakistan, 247-48, 268-90 Paleari, A., 194 Pamirs (China), 297 Pamirs (USSR), 297-98 “Parapet” (Sierra Nevada, California), 153 Park, Dong-Gyo, 232 Parker, Robert Staveley, 179 Par6n (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 195 Pass Walls (Colorado), 168 Passu Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),
28 l-83 Patagonia, 209- 13 Peary, Robert Edwin, an.. 114-23 Peluchuco Huaracha (Cordillera Apolo-
bamba, Bolivia), 203 Penstemon Dome (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifomia) , 153 Peru, arts., 69-72, 73-76; 56, 62-65,
185-202 Philip Heron (Patagonia), 209 Phurba Ghyachu (Nepal Himalaya), 234 Phurbi Chhyachu. See Phurba Ghyachu Piedra Sonada (Areentina), 206 Pierre, O., 263 - Pilafian, Peter, 48-53 Pilat, Mike, 348 Pinnacle Peak (Punjab Himalaya), 265 Pinnacles National Monument (California),
162 “Pioneer” (British Empire Range,
Ellesmere Island), 177 Pisco (Cordillem Blanca, Peru), 187, 195 Pisco Oeste (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
192 Pizzo, Christopher, 138-39 Place names: China, 296; Nepal, 248 Poccard, Rtmy, 146-47 Point Peter (Kenya), 216 Porong Ri (Tibet), 295
363
THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1983
Porter, John, 241-42 Porvazntk, Jan, 69-72 Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, 347-48 Powell, Rick, 124-37 “Powerhouse Wall” (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), 155 Prescott, Nicholas, 35-39 Principal (Patagonia), 209 Prunes. Joaquim, 280 Pucahirca Central (Cordillera Blanca,
Peru), 195 Pucahirca Sur (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
194 Pujot, Pierre, 276 Pumori (Nepal Himalaya), l-7, 230-31 Pungpa Ri (Tibet), 35-39 Punjab Himalaya (India), 261-66 Punjab Himalaya (India): Peak 21800,
262 Punjab Himalaya (Pakistan), 283-89 Puntancuemo (Ecuador). 185 Pupusani (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 204 Puscanturpa Central (Cordillera
Huayhuash, Peru), 197 Puscanturpa Norte (Cordillera Huayhuash,
Peru), 196 Puscanturpa Sur (Cordillera Huayhuash,
Peru). 196-97 Putha Hiunchuli (Nepal Himalaya), 247 Putz, Anton, 205
Q Qogir. See K2. Quartzite Crag (Eldorado Springs Canyon,
Colorado), 170 Quimarumi (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 185 “Quimsa Kocha Punta.” See Huayanay V. Quircuincho (Patagonia), 212 Quitaraju (Cordillera Blanca. Peru), 194
R
Randall, Glenn, 165, 166-70 Razdelna (Pam& USSR), 298 Re, Alberta, 252 Rea, Ian, 253 Read, William A. (Al), 15-21 Redgarden Wall (Eldorado Springs Can-
yon, Colorado), 166 Reinhard, Johan, art., 54-67 Religion: Andes, art., 54-67 Relincho (Argentina), 207 Renshaw. Richard. 22-29 “Rescue” (British Empire Range,
Ellesmere Island), 177
Research, Scientific: Retinal Haemor- rhage, 113, 139
“Resolute” (British Empire Range, Ellesmere Island), 177
Revelation Mountains (Alaska), 148-49 Reynolds, Jan, l-7 Rheinberger, Michael, 250 Rice, Douglas, 199 Richard, Michel, 240 Ridley, A. N., 262 Rinrijirca (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 194 Rishikot (Garhwal Himalaya), 252 Roberts, David, 122-23 Roberts, Tracy, S-14 Robson, Mount (Rocky Mountains,
Canada), 174, 175 Roth, Michel, 263 Rock Tower (Garhwal Himalaya), 249 Rocky Mountain National Park (Col-
orado), 168, 171 Rocky Mountains (Canada), 174-75 Rocky Mountains (Colorado), 166-71 Rodriguez Cubillas, Isidro, 216 Rondoy (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),
69-72 Roskelley, John F. C., 15-21, 165 Rott, Helmut, 269 Rowell, Galen A., art.. 15-21; 155-57,
216 Roy, D. P., 253 Ruckhaus, Glenn, 98-101 Ruckhaus, Michael, 98-101 Rudshe Konka. See Jiazi. Rudugaira (Garhwal Himalaya), 261 Rurec (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 187 Russell, Mount (Alaska Range), ascents
of, 142 Rutkiewicz-Scharfetter, Wanda, 273
S
“Sabine” (Fairweather Range, Alaska), 151
Saint Elias Mountains (Alaska), 151-52 Saint Elias Mountains (Yukon Territory),
151, 173 Saint Paul Peak (Cabinet Mountains,
Montana), 165 Saint Vrain Canyon, South (Front Range,
Colorado), 168 Saito, Hideaki, 290-91 Sakiguchi, Osamu, 262 Salcantay (Cordillera Vilcabamba, Peru),
202 San Jeronimo (Argentina), 206
INDEX
San Juan (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 185 San Lorenzo (Patagoma). 209-10 San Miguel (Argentina), 206 Sancayuni (Cordtllera Real, Bolivia), 204 Sanford, James S., 334-35 Sankalpa (Garhwal Himalaya), 249 Santa Rosa (Cordillera Raura, Peru), 197 Saraghrar (Hindu Kush, Pakistan), 276 Saraghrar Northwest 11 (Hindu Kush,
Pakistan), 283 Sarin, Hari C., 261 Sasaki, Norio, 246 Satan’s Slab (Boulder Canyon, Colorado),
170 Sathe, Usha Bhide, 261 Sato, Masatoshi, 237 Satopanth (Garhwal Himalaya), 253 Saudain, Sylvain, 268 Saum, George H., 345 Saunders, John E., 201-2 Savenc, Franci, 192, 206-7 Savoia Kangri (Karakoram Range,
Pakistan), 276 Schaffter, Stefane, 284 Schell, Harms, 240 Schepper, Johan de, 189 Schier, Peter, 180 Schmuck, Markus, 297 Schoene, Robert B., 300 Schoon, Andre, 185-87 Schrag, Karl, 250-51 Schulz, Giinter, 263 Schunk, George, 81-86 Schweizerland (Greenland), 180 Scott, Douglas K., art., 35-39 Seal Rock (Boulder Canyon, Colorado),
166 Secret Crag (Front Range, Colorado), 170 Segiura, Makoto, 253 Seigneur, Yannick, 284 “Sequel Spire” (Kichatna Mountains,
Alaska), 81-86 Seung, MO Shin, 219-20 Shatayeva (Pamirs, USSR), 297 Sheep’s Nose Rock (Front Range,
Colorado), 168 Shepard, Stanley S., 204 Sheppard Peak (Coast Mountains, British
Columbia), 174 Sherpas, 243-44 Shimio, Takao, 262 Shinkai, Isao, 295 Shisha Pangma (Tibet), art., 35-39; 294 Shivling (Garhwal Himalaya), 256-57 Siberia (USSR), 298-300
Siebauer, Siegfried, 240 Siegrist, Robert, 222 Sierra Buttes (Sierra Nevada. California),
158 ,12; Sierra Nevada (California), art., I IO-
153-62, 164-65 Sierra Nevada: Peak 9011, 157; Peak
9547, 157; Peak 12563, 157; Peak 13198, 157
Sigayret, Henri, 242-43 Sikkim Himalaya, 216- 18, 247-48 Simonson, Eric, 8-14 Singh, Daljit, 265 Singh, Jagit, 252-53 Skoog, Gordon R., 152-53 Skunk Canyon (Front Range, Colorado),
166 “Sky Garden Wall” (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), 155 Smith, Alan A., art., 103-9 Smith, Lucy, 30-34 “Snow Cave.” See “Snow Cone.” “Snow Cone” (Punjab Himalaya), 262 Soan (Fanskiye Gory Mountains, USSR),
298 Sosneado Sur (Argentina), 207 South America, 184-207 Southwick, Lewis S., obit., 342 Spindler, Walter, 265 Spiti (India), 261-62 Stallbohm, Volker, 276 Staunings Alps (Greenland), I SO-81 Staunings Alps: Peak 1950, 181; Peak
2200, 181; Peak 2410, 181; Peak 2450, 181
Steele, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Yukon Territory), 173
Stefan, Wolfgang, 239 Stejskal, Jaromir, art., 69-72 Stepanek, Miroslav, 192 Stikine Icefield (Coast Mountains, British
Columbia), 173-74 Stringer, Michael, 48-53 Stuart, Alexander Verrijn, 292-93 Sturm, Giinter, 244, 268-69 Stutzman, David, 48-53 Sucht Skaly (Czechoslovakia). 128-29 Sugishita, Kenji, 244 Sundance (Rocky Mountain National
Park, Colorado), 168 Surka, Tibor, 209 Swain, Todd, 326-27 Swenson, Steven J., 344
34.5
THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL. 1983
T
Taboche (Nepal Himalaya), 231 Tada, Yuzo, 292 Tamm, Evgeny, 225 Tamm, Paul, 173-74 Tanaka, Tazunori, 234 Tanraniyoc (Cordillera Central, Peru), 199 Tanzania, 216 Tarke Kang. See Glacier Dome. Tasker, Joseph T., 22-29; death oJ 27 Tatra Mountains (Czechoslovakia), 132-35 Taulliraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), art.,
73-76; 194 Tauscher, Hansjiirgen. 294 Tehachang Peak (Nepal Himalaya), 246 Temple Crag (Sierra Nevada, California),
159-62 Terakawa, Shozo, 235 Thackray, John, 330-31 Thalay Sagar (Garhwal Himalaya), 259 Thamserku (Nepal Himalaya), 224 Thapa, Yogendm, 231 30” Anniversario (Patagonia), 211 Thor, Mount (Baffin Island), 179 Thunder Buttress (Rocky Mountain
National Park, Colorado), 171 Tibet, arts., 1-7, S-14, 22-29, 35-39;
292-95 Tilicho (Nepal Himalaya), 243-44 Timmers, Han, 150-51 Tirich Mir (Hindu Kush, Pakistan),
289-90 Tirich Mir West I (Hindu Kush,
Pakistan), 290 “Titanic, Mount” (Revelation Mountains,
Alaska), 148-49 Tombstone Mountains (Yukon Territory),
173 Tordova, America, 185 To&lo Mountains (Alaska), 148 Terre (Norte, Sierra del, Venezuela), 184 Terre, Cerro (Patagonia), 209 Toscan, Bruno, 235 Tra Pahar. See CB 10. Trafton, Steve, 175-78 Traverses: Himalaya, 247-48 “Tridhar” (Garhwal Himalaya), 249 “Trilogy” (Sierra Nevada, California), 155 Trisul (Garhwal Himalaya), 252 Tronador (Patagonia), 209 Tsherina. Sheroa Sarkev, 24344 Tsujiyama, Kenichiro, 276 TSUNP (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 196
Tuolumne Meadows (Sierra Nevada, Cal- ifornia), art., 110-12; 164-65
“Turtle’s Beak” (Greenland), 183 Twins, North (Rocky Mountains,
Canada), 174-75
U
Udall, Mark, 260 Ultar Group (Karakoram Range,
Pakistan), 280-S 1 Unger, Christian, 246 United States, 139-7 1 Uruashraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 187 Ushba (Caucasus, USSR), 300 USSR, 297-300 USSR Sports Committee, 225-27 Utah, 165-66 “Uttar Dhura” (Garhwal Himalaya), 249 Uyeda, Muneo, 280
V
Vaidya, A. G., 253 Vallecitos (Argentina), 207 Vallunaraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 187 Van Anda, Paul, obit., 342 Varaha Shikhar. See Fang. Venables, Stephen, 199 Venezuela, 184 Ventanani (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 204 Verde (Argentina), 206 Vertigo (M&da, Sierra Nevada de,
Venezuela), 184 Vicic, Franc, 195 ‘Victory” (British Empire Range,
Ellesmere Island), 177 Vidoni. Tullio, 267 Vieja (Norte, Sierra del, Venezuela), 184 Vieia III (Norte, Sierra del, Venezuela),
l”84 Vigouroux, Ivan, 207, 213 Viluyo (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 203 Visintini, Livio, 197
W
Wagstaff, Brock, 159-62 Washington, 152-53 Washington, Mount (White Mountains,
New Hampshire), art., 103-9 Waterman, Jonathan, 93-97, 31 l-12 Watts, Christopher, 73-76 Weaver, Howard A., 272 Webster, Edward, 166, 171, 175 Wells, Frank, S-14 West, John B., 230
366
“Whales’s Back Peak” (Kichatna Moun- tains, Alaska), 81-86
Whistler, Mount (British Empire Range, Ellesmere Island), 175
White, Gene F., 328-29 White Mountains (New Hampshire), art,
103-9 White Needle (Punjab Himalaya), 265 White Sail. See Dharamsura. Whitney, Mount (Sierra Nevada, Cal-
ifornia), 157 Whittaker, Louis, 8-14 Wickwire, James, arr., 8-14; 303-6,
342-43 Widder, Fridebert, 298-300 Wiedman, Michael, 113, 139 Wilford, Mark, art., 124-37: 171 Williams, James, 48-53 Williams, Mount (Osterrieth Mountains,
Antarctica), 2 13 Wilson, Robert A., 289-90 Windy Peak (Saint Elias Mountains,
Yukon Territory), 151 Wingate Spires (Utah), 166 Wolcott, Roger G., &it., 341-42 Wolf, Walter L., obir., 342 Wong. Mr., 40-47 Wood, Walter A.. 151 Woolurns. Scott, art.. 77-80; 148 Womer, Stefan, 286-88 Wrangell Mountains (Alaska), art.,
98-101 Wu, Hsia Hsung, 265 Wyoming, 166
INDEX
Y
.
Yabuki, Keizo, 297 Yahuarraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), I87 Yamada, Kazuhiko, 239 Yamada, Noboru, 237 Yamakura, Koji, 259 Yanapaccha (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),
195 Yasuda, Ichiro, 234 Yayamari (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),
199 Yerupaja (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),
69-72, 197 Yosemite (Sierra Nevada, California),
arr.. 110-12; 162-65 Young, Michael, art.. 93-97 Yuda, Kazuo, 221 Yukon Territory, 151, 173
2
22 (Zanskar Range, Ladakh), 267 23 (Zanskar Range, Ladakh), 267 Zaheer, Yousuf, 216-17, 261-62 Zangwill, John, 73-76 Zanskar (Ladakh), 267 Zanskar Range (Ladakh), 267 Zanskar Range: Peak 5750, 267; Peak 5854,
267; Peak 5895, 267: Peak 6025. 267 Zebrowski. Hans, 283-84 Ziegenhardt , Herbert, 240-4 I
367