View A View B Ciao Bella - LiveInternetimg0.liveinternet.ru/images/attach/b/4//4058/4058254_ciaobella2.pdf · Ciao Bella is written for wovens and stretch knits . View A has an optional

© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson

Ciao Bella Size 1-12

View A View B

Fabric Requirements (in yards)

*Fabric requirements based on 44/45” wide fabric.

Suggested fabrics: Designed for both wovens (such as cotton, voile, lawn, eyelet, plisse, batiste, and broadcloth) and stretch knits with 25% stretch across the grain (such as jersey, interlock, matte jersey, double knit) Notions: Universal or Ball-point needle, Polyester thread, 1 package of ¼” wide elastic, 1 package of ½” wide elastic OPTIONAL: Wooly Nylon or Maxilock Stretch Thread if using knits.

Web: www.ellieinspired.com [email protected]

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View A View B

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6

View A 1 1 5/8 1 5/8 1 7/8 2 2 1/4

View B 3/4 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/2 1 1/2 1 3/4

Size 7 8 9 10 11 12

View A 2 1/4 2 1/2 2 5/8 3 2 7/8 3 1/4

View B 1 3/4 2 2 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/2

Ciao Bella is written for wovens and stretch knits . View A has an optional overskirt of overlapping ruffles. View B has a ruffle attached to the bottom. Both have elasticized neckline, sleeves, and waistband. This pattern is suitable for beginner sewers.

Girls love this comfortable easy-to-wear top.

© September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 3

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

*includes ease

**from shoulder to hem.

Ciao Bella by Laura Johnson

Please read through all directions before beginning.

Size 1 2 3 4

Chest* 20” 21” 22” 23”

Length** 12” 13 ½” 15” 16 ½”

Size 5 6 7 8

Chest* 24” 25” 26” 27”

Length** 18” 19 ½” 21” 22 ½”

Size 9 10 11 12

Chest* 28” 29” 30” 31”

Length** 24” 25 ½” 27” 28 ½”

GLOSSARY

Finishing seam edges – There are three ways to achieve a

professional seam inside your garment with this pattern:

1. Use a serger when stitching the seams.

2. Use an overlock stitch or a zig-zag stitch on your sewing

machine when stitching the seam.

3. Use French seams to enclose raw edges.

Shaded areas in diagram – In all of the diagrams in this

pattern, the shaded areas are the wrong side of the

garment.

Armscye – Armhole opening.

NOTE: If French seams are going to be used, cut out pattern

pieces with an additional seam allowance of ¼”.

All seam allowances are ¼” unless otherwise stated.

• Cut out BOTH the front and back bodice pieces according

to the measurements.

Size 1 2 3 4

(length x width)

10” x 14 ½”

11 ½” x 15”

13” x 15 ½”

14 ½” x 16”

Size 5 6 7 8

(length x width)

16” x 16 ½”

17 ½” x 17”

19” x 17 ½”

20 ½” x 18”

Size 9 10 11 12

(length x width)

22” x 18 ½”

23 ½” x 19”

25” x 19 ½”

26 ½” x 20”

• Cut out TWO sleeves according to these measurements:

Size 1 2 3 4

(length x width)

7” x 14” 7 ½” x 14 ½”

8” x 14 ½”

8 ½” x 15”

Size 5 6 7 8

(length x width)

9” x 15 ½”

9 ½” x 15 ½”

10” x 16”

10 ½” x 16 ½”

Size 9 10 11 12

(length x width)

11” x 16 ½”

11 ½” x 17”

12” x 17 ½”

12 ½” x 17 ½”

• Cut out armsyce of the bodices and sleeves.

To cut out the armscye, fold each bodice piece and each sleeve piece in half widthwise so that raw edges are even. Place the arm curve along the raw edges

and cut along outer curve for armscye. See the diagram and pattern pieces on the following page.


Designed by Laura Johnson Copyright © August 2012

www.ellieinspired.com

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11 1”

“Ciao Bella” ELLIE INSPIRED Armscye Curve

Use to cut each side of sleeve,

front bodice, and back bodice

“Ciao Bella” ELLIE INSPIRED Armscye Curve

Use to cut each side of sleeve,

front bodice, and back bodice

FOLD

TOP TOP

TOP

SIDE

SIDE

SIDE


• Cut out TWO of the ruffle (called the third tier below).

• 1st and 2nd tiers are an optional overskirt shown in View A. Cut TWO of these as well.

• Cut out waistband 2 1/2” wide by the following length:

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6

1st Tier 4 ¼” x 20” 4 ¾” x 23” 5 ¼” x 26” 6”x 29” 6 ½”x 31” 7 ¾”x34”

2nd Tier 4 ¼” x 20” 4 ¾” x 23” 5 ¼” x 26” 6”x 29” 6 ½”x 31” 7 ¾”x34”

3rd Tier 3 ½” x 20” 3 ½” x 23” 4” x 26” 4” x 29” 4 ½” x 31” 5” x 34”

Size 7 8 9 10 11 12

1st Tier 8 ¼”x 37” 9”x40” 9 ½”x 43” 10 ¼”x45” 10 ¾”x45” 11 ½”x45”

2nd Tier 8 ¼”x 37” 9”x40” 9 ½”x 43” 10 ¼”x45” 10 ¾”x45” 11 ½”x45”

3rd Tier 5” x 37” 5 ½ x 40” 5 ½” x 43” 6” x 45” 6” x 45” 6 ½ x 45”

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6

Length 29” 30” 31” 32” 33” 34”

Size 7 8 9 10 11 12

Length 35” 36” 37” 38” 39” 40”


SEWING THE TOP

Bodice Construction:

1. Complete embroidery on

shirt front, if desired.

2. Place one sleeve on top

of the shirt front with right

sides together. Stitch

along angled side with

a finished seam edge.

3. Place shirt back to the

sleeve with right sides

together. Stitch along

other angled side with

a finished seam edge.

4. Repeat with other sleeve so that the shirt is

joined in a circle.


Stitching the Side Seams:

1. Fold the shirt in half, right sides together, at the

arms and match front arm seams with back

arm seams. Make sure sleeve opening edges

and bottom of shirt pieces match.

2. Stitch from sleeve opening

under the arm and down the

sides of the shirt with a finished

seam edge.

2. Stitch in place, close the folded edge and leave

a small opening at the center back to insert the

elastic.

3. Cut a length of ¼” elastic the measurement

below and thread through the opening. (Use a

safety pin to feed the elastic through the casing.

Use another safety pin to prevent the other end

from slipping through.

Finishing the Neckline:

1. Press the top of the neckline to the inside ¼”.

Press again ½” to the inside of the garment.

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6

Elastic 15 ½” 16” 16 ½” 17” 17 ½” 18”

Size 7 8 9 10 11 12

Elastic 18 ½” 19” 19 ½” 20” 20 ½” 21”


4. Join the ends of elastic securely by stitching

several rows with a zig-zag stitch. Trim any

extra. Stitch the opening at the center back

closed.

3. Join the ends of elastic securely by stitching

several rows with a zig-zag stitch. Trim any extra.

Stitch the opening closed.

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6

Elastic 6 ¾” 7” 7 ¼” 7 ½” 7 ¾” 8”

Size 7 8 9 10 11 12

Elastic 8 ¼” 8 ½” 8 ¾” 9” 9 ¼” 9 ½”

2. Cut a length of ¼” elastic the measurement

below and thread through the opening. (Use a

safety pin as before.)

Finishing the Sleeves:

1. Hem the bottom of each sleeve by pressing up

¼” and again another ¼”, enclosing the raw

edge. Stitch close to folded edge, leaving an

opening to insert the elastic.


Attaching the Bottom Ruffle: Hemming the Ruffles:

NOTE: If using knit fabric, it may need to be stabilized

to reduce stretching the hem out of shape. To do

this: stabilize the hem with strips of fusible interfacing,

which also anchor the hem during stitching.

Traditional Hem:

1. Join the strips of fabric by placing right sides

together and stitching the short sides.

2. Press the bottom of the strip of fabric up ¼” and

again ¼”, enclosing the raw edge or serge the

edge and press the hem up ¼”.

2. If using a knit that is very stretchy or prone to roll, a

little spray starch may be necessary before

pressing.

1. Stitch two rows of gathering threads ¼” apart

all the way around the top of the ruffle.

2. Pull the ends of the gathering threads to gather

the top of the tier.

3. Place the tier over the

bottom of the shirt,

right sides together

and matching side

seams. Adjust gathers

to fit.

4. Stitch ruffle to bodice,

slightly to the inside of

the gathering threads.

Press seam up and top-stitch in place,

if desired.


Attaching the Optional Skirt Tiers (View A):

1. Measure from the bottom of the armscye 2” and

mark a line straight across. This line can

be pressed with an iron or drawn with a

washaway pen. This will mark the top of the first

ruffle.

2. Measure again from that line down according to

the chart below and mark or press another line.

2”

according to chart

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6

2 ¼” 2 ¾” 3 ¼” 4” 4 ½” 5 ¾”

Size 7 8 9 10 11 12

6 ¼” 7” 7 ½” 8 ¼” 8 ¾” 9 ½”


8. Place the tier on the top marked line with the

wrong side to the right side of the bodice.

Adjust gathers to fit.

9. Stitch tier to bodice, slightly to the

inside of the gathering threads.

3. Stitch two rows of gathering threads ¼” apart

all the way around the top of the skirt tiers.

4. Pull the ends of the gathering threads to gather

the top of the tier.

5. Place the tier on the bottom one of the

previously marked lines, right sides together

and matching side seams. Adjust gathers to fit.

6. Stitch tier to bodice, slightly to the inside of the

gathering threads. Fold tier down and

top-stitch in place.

7. Repeat steps #1-2 with remaining skirt tier.


Attaching the Waistband:

1. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, right

sides together. Stitch long edge (fig A.) Turn

right side and press (fig. B).

2. Placing the waistband:

a. FOR VIEW A: Place waistband over the seam

used to attach the top skirt tier.

b. FOR VIEW B: Measure 1 ½” down from the

bottom of the armscye. Press a line around

the bodice to mark placement of the

waistband.

4. The ends should overlap under one of the

sleeves. Stitch in place close to each edge,

leaving each end free.

5. Thread 1/2” elastic the following measurement

through the waistband.

6. Stitch to secure each elastic end inside the

waistband.

7. Overlap the ends of the waistband and fold in

the raw edges. Stitch the finished ends of the

waistband to the top.

A. B.

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6

Elastic 20” 21” 22” 23” 24” 25”

Size 7 8 9 10 11 12

Elastic 26” 27” 28” 29” 30” 31”

View A View B


TIPS FOR SEWING WITH KNITS

Types of Knits:

1. Stable Knits – Knits with 18-25% stretch ratio. Example:

polar fleece and sweat fabrics.

2. Moderate Knits - Knits with 26-50% stretch ratio.

Example: T-shirt fabric, interlocks, jerseys, double-knits.

3. Stretchy Knits - Knits with 51-75% stretch ratio.

Example: velour, stretch terry, some T-shirt fabrics.

4. Super-Stretch Knits - Knits with 76-100% stretch ratio.

Example: spandex, nylon spandex, cotton spandex,

jumbo spandex.

5. Rib Knits - Knits with up to 100% stretch ratio. Rib knits

are created by alternating vertical stripes of

stockinette stitch with vertical stripes of reverse

stockinette stitch. 1x1 Ribs stretch more than 2x2 or

3x3 ribs. Example: cuff ribbing, waistband ribbing,

crew neck collars.

6. Sweater Knits - Knits with 18-50% stretch ratio.

Example: sweaters and sweater dresses.

7. Stretch Wovens - Knits with less than 18% stretch ratio.

Stretch wovens are created by weaving lycra within

fabric.

Pressing Knits: It is not necessary to press knits while

constructing the garment since they do not take a

sharp crease. However, the garment can be blocked

when finished to shape it, make the hems lie flat, and

relax stitching and elastic.

Interfacing: Interfacing should be used very sparingly

with knits because it will prevent the knit from

stretching. If interfacing must be used, use tricot

interfacing which has a cross-wise stretch. It will not

bubble or pucker like Pellon or woven fusing. Stabilizers

such as twill tape, seam binding, or a piece of woven

selvage can be used to reinforce shoulder seams and

prevent the garment from stretching out of shape.

Machine Stitches:

1. Stretch Stitch – The stretch stitch looks like a lightning

bolt on the sewing machine. It is a great choice to

cut down on skipped and broken stitches.

2. Zig-Zag Stitch: A stitch that goes one

way (zig), then the other (zag), which

gives the fabric more room to stretch.


Notions:

1. Ball-point needles – Sharp needles pierce the fabric

and cut the fibers. Ballpoint needles have rounded

tips and are designed to glide through the loops

instead so that the fabric is not harmed.

2. Polyester thread - Polyester thread has more elasticity

and can stretch a little with the fabric. Use polyester

thread in the needle to create stable seams.

3. Wooly Nylon or Maxilock Stretch thread – These

threads create seams that recover after being

stretched, which is a great benefit when sewing knit

fabrics. Use this thread in the upper looper of the

serger and in the bobbin of the sewing machine. It

also offers great coverage when stitching rolled hems.

Fold-Over Elastic, Bindings, and Ribbed Finishes:

1. Fold-Over Elastic: This can be used to bind edges. It

is a stretchy trim with a knitted-in foldline. It

stretches, comes in different widths, shiny, matte, or

picot-edged.

2. Self-Fabric Bindings: Use a knit with a high stretch

ratio.

3. Ribbed Finishes: When cutting rib knit for cuffs or

neckline, stretch the fabric when cutting.

3. Three-Step Zig-Zag Stitch: A variation of the traditional

zig-zag stitch which works better with tightly knitted

fabrics to prevent skipped stitches and bunching under

the needle.

4. Twin-Needle Stitching - A twin needle will sew two

parallel lines of stitches on the top of a piece of fabric,

and a single zig-zag stitch underneath, making the

seam decorative and stretchy.

4. Walking Foot - A walking foot is optional but it will

help greatly in diminishing puckering in the seams. It

helps to grip the top of fabric so that the top and

bottom pass through under the needle evenly.


By Laura Johnson. For personal use only. All rights reserved. Copyright © September 2012. No part of this pattern may be reproduced or copied without permission in writing from the author. To see more patterns by Laura Johnson go to www.ellieinspired.com.

For questions on sewing patterns by Ellie Inspired, visit the

discussion forums on our website: www.ellieinspired.com

Fair use of this pattern are subject to the following conditions:

“Ciao Bella” is a special thank-you gift for my amazing customers and is available for

FREE! It is only available on my website: www.ellieinspired.com. Please do NOT re-

post this pattern in its entirety. A link may be provided back to my site.

If you sell garments made using this pattern, in consideration of the many hours spent

on the design, please always give credit to Ellie Inspired as the designer (i.e. “Ciao

Bella” pattern by Ellie Inspired, www.ellieinspired.com). No mass production is

permitted using this pattern.

Ciao Bella by Laura Johnson


Documents

View A View B Ciao Bella - LiveInternetimg0.liveinternet.ru/images/attach/b/4//4058/4058254_ciaobella2.pdf · Ciao Bella is written for wovens and stretch knits . View A has an optional