"Ultimate" Trigger Kit for Ruger® 10/22 V1.0 www.tandemkross.com For more info or support contact CustomerService@tandemkross.com

Attention: Before you begin, be certain that the firearm is clear and safe. It is recommended to wear safety glasses as some parts are under spring tension. You will need a small punch and a 5/32 allen wrench in order to install this part. Caution: Do not dry fire the trigger without installing a hammer block, stopping the hammer from going all the way forward with your hand, or installing the trigger housing in your firearm. Otherwise serious damage can occur. Package includes a hammer, sear, trigger shoe, wire spring, nylon-tipped post-travel screw, allen wrench, and slave pin.

Note: If attempting to install in a BX trigger housing, you will not be able to use the BX disconnector. You must use an original style stock disconnector instead.

1. Using the 5/32 allen wrench and punch, disassemble your firearm according to Ruger’s instructions until you have removed the trigger housing from the receiver.

2. Use the punch to push out the 3 circled pins. Remove the ejector, hammer, hammer spring, mainspring, trigger, sear, disconnector, and trigger return spring and detent. The return spring and detent will not be re-installed, so store them somewhere safe.

3. Punch out the pin that holds the disconnector in the stock trigger. Put the disconnector into the new trigger shoe as shown and replace the pin.

4. Put the sear into the trigger shoe and put the sear spring into the counterbores between the sear and disconnector. Push the included slave pin into the hole through the front of the trigger and the sear. If done correctly, they will be able to click when pressing alternately on the sear or disconnector, and will not be able to separate.

5. Screw the post-travel screw into the rear of the trigger metal end first, so that the nylon tip will be what contacts the frame. You can use the included allen wrench through the hole in the front of the trigger to adjust overtravel as needed once installation is complete. Using threadlocker such as blue Loctite is recommended to keep the adjustment screw from turning.

5A. Exploded view of all parts in trigger assembly.

6. Put the loop of the included spring around the circular cutout on the right side of the trigger so that the longer leg is angled down and forward, then insert the trigger into the frame. The long leg of the spring should point forward horizontally, and rest on the narrow shelf beneath the bolt release plate’s crosspiece on the right side of the gun. Reinsert the smallest of the pins through the frame and trigger, pushing the slave pin out.

7. Put the loop of the wire spring that came in the

gun around the right side of the bushing on the new hammer. Orient the hammer as shown. The spring leg with the slight bend it should be the foward-most leg. Put the hammer into the frame and put the largest of the pins through the frame and hammer. The hammer and wire spring should still be able to move freely.

8. Put the wide end of the mainspring into the hole at the rear of the trigger housing. The slot in the retaining clip should be in the 12 o’clock position. The thin end of the mainspring will be inserted into the slot on the back of the hammer. Pull the hammer all the way back until it locks. The wire spring should still be able to move freely.

9. Orient the ejector as shown, then insert the final pin through the last hole in frame left to right, through the bolt release plate, and through the ejector. Rotate the wire hammer spring all the way forward so the bent leg sits in the notch on the bolt release plate, then press the straight leg down so that it is held under the pin as you push it the rest of the way into the frame.

10. Put the trigger housing back in the receiver and

reassemble the gun according to Ruger’s instructions.