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TRICHOLOGY

The scientific study of hair, its diseases, and care Hair is part of integument. Healthy hair requires a healthy diet. Proper nutrients are required for healthy hair. Body can synthesize 11 of the 20 amino acids

that make up hair. Sources of amino acids include

a. proteins.b. peanut butter.c. rice.d. beans.e. corn.

TRICHOLOGY

Structure of Hair Root

– Follicle– Hair bulb– Dermal papilla– Arrector pili– Sebaceous glands

HAIR

HAIRStructure of Hair Shaft

– Cuticle– Cortex– Medulla

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR

• Keratinization

• 91% Protein

– Long chains of amino acids• COHNS Elements

– Carbon—51%– Oxygen—21%– Hydrogen—6%– Nitrogen—17%– Sulfur—5%

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR

Amino Acids

– Linked like pop beads

– Peptide (or end) bonds

– Polypeptide chain

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR

Side Bonds of Cortex– Hydrogen bonds– Salt bonds– Disulfide bonds

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR

• Hair Pigment– Melanin– Natural hair color

• Haircolor versus Hair Color• Wave Pattern and Tendencies

– Straight hair– Wavy hair– Extremely curly hair– Asian– Caucasian– African American

HAIR ANALYSIS• Hair Texture

– Coarse– Medium– Fine

• Hair Density– Low– Medium– High– Average (2,200 hairs per

in.2)– Blonde (140,000)– Brown (110,000)– Black (108,000)– Red (80,000)

HAIR ANALYSIS• Porosity

– Low – Average– High

• Elasticity– Normal– Low

• Growth Patterns– Hair stream– Whorl– Cowlick

• Dry Hair and Scalp– Appears dull, dry, and lifeless– No frequent shampooing

• Oily Hair and Scalp– Clarifying shampoos– Well-balanced diet– Exercise– Regular, frequent shampooing

HAIR ANALYSIS

Types of Hair

Vellus or lanugo

Terminal hair

Growth Cycles of Hair

Anagen

Catagen

Telogen

HAIR GROWTH

GROWING PHASE—Average growth about 1/2” per month

90% of scalp hair grow at the same time

Growth period of three to five years; as long as ten years in some cases

Duration of hair life affected by gender, age, type of hair, heredity, nutrition, and health

ANAGEN

Transitional phase.

Follicle canal shrinks, detaches from the papilla.

The lower part of follicle is destroyed.

End of the growth phase; lasts only one to two weeks.

Less than 1% of scalp hair is in this phase at any one time.

CATAGEN

Resting stage.

After catagen, follicle begins a 3- to 6-month phase of resting.

Follicle is shorter, about 1/2 to 1/3 the length of active follicles.

Only 10% of hair is in telogen phase at one time.

After telogen, the cycle begins again.

TELOGEN

Hair Growth Myths Clipping, shaving, trimming, and cutting makes hair

grow faster.

Scalp massage increases hair growth.

Gray hair is coarser and more resistant than pigmented hair.

Amount of natural curl is determined by racial background.

Hair with round cross-section is straight, hair with oval cross-section is wavy, hair with flat cross-section is curly.

HAIR GROWTH

Hair Growth Facts Shaving or cutting the hair has no effect on hair

growth.

Stimulation or scalp massage does not increase hair growth.

Other than the lack of pigment, gray hair is exactly the same as pigmented hair.

Anyone of any race can have hair from straight to extremely curly.

Cross-sections of hair can be almost any shape, and the shape of the cross-section does not always relate to the amount of curl of the hair.

HAIR GROWTH

Men with severe hair loss

experience negative social and emotional effects.

are more preoccupied with their baldness.

make efforts to conceal or compensate for hair loss.

Women with hair loss

usually devastated.

feel anxious, helpless, less attractive.

HAIR LOSS

Androgenetic alopecia affects 40 million U.S. men.

affects 20 million U.S. women.

Alopecia areata Immune system attacks hair

follicles.

It begins with one or two small, bald patches.

It occurs in males and females of all ages.

Scalp shows no sign of inflammation.

HAIR LOSS

Postpartum alopecia

Temporary hair loss at conclusion of pregnancy

Hair Loss Treatments

Minoxidil®—topical medication applied to scalp

Finasteride®—oral prescription for men only

HAIR LOSS

Canities (kah-NISH-ee-eez)

Congenital canities

Acquired canities

Ringed Hair

Alternate bands of gray and dark hair

Hypertrichosis

Also known as hirsuties, means superfluous hair

Fragilitas Crinium

Brittle hair that causes splitting

DISORDERS OF THE HAIR

TRICHOPTILOSIS• Split hair ends

• Treatment—oil to lubricate and soften ends, or cutting the hair

TRICHORRHEXIS NODOSA• Knotted hair• Dry, brittle • Nodular swellings along

hair shaft• Hair easily broken,

creating a brush-like spreading of fibers along the hair shaft

• Treatment—softening the hair with conditioners

MONILETHRIX• Beaded hair

• Hair easily broken between the beads

• Treatment—scalp and hair treatments may improve hair condition

Dandruff

Pityriasis capitis simplex

Pityriasis steatoides

Both contagious

Vegetable Parasitic Infections

Tinea

Tinea capitis

Tinea favosa

DISORDERS OF THE SCALP

VEGETABLE PARASITIC INFECTIONS

• Tinea capitis—ringworm of the scalp

• Characterized by red papules or spots at the opening of the hair follicles

• Causes the hair to break

Animal parasitic infections

Scabies; caused by the itch mite

Pediculosis capitis

Staphylococci infections

Furuncle or boil

Carbuncle

DISORDERS OF THE SCALP

ANIMAL PARASITIC INFECTIONS

• Pediculosis capitis (head lice)

• Contagious– Infest the hair and

scalp– Itching occurs– Scratching can cause

infection• Head lice do not jump or

fly but run very quickly

ANIMAL PARASITIC INFECTIONS

• Nits• Tiny, yellow-white

eggs of lice• Become attached to

the hair and difficult to remove

STAPHYLOCOCCI PARASITIC INFECTIONS

• Furuncle—a boil– Infection of a hair

follicle– Constant pain; pustule

is perforated by a hair• Carbuncle

– Inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue

– Larger than a furuncle

SUMMARY• Trichology is the science that deals with the hair,

its diseases, and care.

• The more you understand how salon services affect different hair types, the better you will be able to achieve consistent results on your client.

• Recognizing scalp and hair disorders will help you direct your client appropriately.