TR IndiaSD Dec2010 - Tropical Birding · Northern!India:!Himalayas,!Bharatpur,!and!the!Taj!Mahal! Nov28–Dec17,2010! INTRODUCTION This trip continues to be one of our very best

Northern India: Himalayas, Bharatpur, and the Taj Mahal Nov 28 – Dec 17, 2010

INTRODUCTION This trip continues to be one of our very best. Not only did some of the group see an amazing

Tiger but we also scored a delectable set of 389 birds. Some of the real stars included a ridiculously

close Ibisbill, Jungle Bush Quail, Lesser Adjutant, White-naped and Rufous-bellied amongst 18

species of woodpecker, Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Long-legged Buzzard, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse,

Black-bellied Tern, Indian Skimmer, Ashy-crowned Sparrowlark, Altai Accentor, Chestnut-headed

Tesia, Red-fronted Prinia, Sulphur-bellied Warbler, Black-faced Warbler, Siberian and White-tailed

Rubythroats, Tawny-bellied Babbler, Indian Scimitar-Babbler, Wallcreeper, Green Magpie, and an

incredible ten owl species all seen in broad daylight. Although Bharatpur was mostly dry, there were

still some impressive concentrations of waterbirds here and at the nearby Bund Baretha. We saw

impressive numbers of most of the palearctic ducks along with jacanas, Waterhens, stately Sarus

Cranes, Bar-headed Goose, and hoardes of bush birds, plus spectacular raptors such as Imperial

and Greater Spotted Eagles. Entering the Himalayan foothills at Naini Tal we were based at a

fabulous little resort town that is full of charm. Highlights included several startling redstarts, dazzling

Northern

INDIA: Himalayas,

Bharatpur and the Taj Mahal

A Tropical Birding Set Departure

Nov 28 – Dec 17, 2010 Guides: Keith Barnes &

Ken Behrens

Report by Ken Behrens and Keith Barnes; Photos

by Ken Behrens unless noted otherwise


sapphire-and-chestnut rock-thrushes, superb flocks of gorgeous Himalayan tits with nuthatches,

leaf-warblers and others interspersed. Some skulkers included a feast of six laughing-thrushes

including the snow-white capped White-crested, the bulbous-headed Striated, the elegant mottled

and scaled Rufous-chinned and common Streaked. Added to this was the superb Great Barbet,

omnipresent Black-headed Jay and magnificent Blue Magpie.

The final days of the trip held one of the most sought-after wildlife experience of them all: an

encounter with an incredible Tiger. Although not everyone in the group got to see the Tiger at Kanha

NP, emphasising the wild and elusive nature of this great cat, we did all see a phenomenal group of

Indian Wild Dog (Dhole) rip apart a small Sambar foal; a once-in-a-lifetime wildlife spectacle. We

also had a Leopard stroll across the road as we were heading up into the foothills of the Himalayas

in pretty densely populated hillsides. Gaur and Swamp Deer were other “great” mammalian finds of

the tour. Oh, apart from all the birds and wildlife we also managed to fit in the Taj Mahal and the

ancient city of Fatepuhr Sikri while we were in India.

The final tally for the three-week trip of 389 bird species and 22 mammal species was

excellent. However, what was more impressive was the fact that when we added in the Goa: South

India custom add-on we were able to amass a grand total of exactly 501 birds and 26 mammals

including Tiger, Leopard, Indian Wild Dog (Dhole), Indian Elephant, and Ganges River Dolphin

recorded on our four-week India Megafari, a tidy little haul indeed.

Red-billed Leothrix (left) was seen in the Himalayas, while we found Black-rumped

Flameback (right) in the lowlands of Bharatpur, just one of many great woodpeckers for the trip.


ITINERARY November 28 Morning Sultanpur Jheel, afternoon Qutub Minar. Night in Delhi. November 29 Delhi to Naini Tal via Okhla Barrage and Ganges River. November 30 Morning at Sattal, afternoon at Kainchidam December 1 Upper Sat Tal and Pangot December 2 Vinayak and Pangot Road December 3 Ramnagar Area December 4 Forktail Creek, Kumeria, and Kosi River December 5 Corbett NP December 6 Corbett NP to Delhi December 7 Delhi to Bharatpur December 8 Keoladeo Ghana NP December 9 Bayena and Bund Baretha December 10 Chambal River, Talabshai and Dolphur December 11 Cultural Day: Fatepur Sikri, Taj Mahal, and Agra Fort December 12 Morning Chambal River Cruise, afternoon to Agra station and train to Kahna NP December 13 Drive to Kanha, afternoon game and tiger tracking. December 14-15 Kanha NP: game and tiger tracking. December 16 Morning in Kanha NP: game and tiger tracking. Afternoon to Nagpur and flight to Delhi. December 17 Transfer to Delhi International Airport

Great Barbet is a fantastic Himalayan bird that we saw near Sat Tal.


TOUR NARRATIVE 28 Nov: Delhi (Sultanpur Jheel and Qutub Minar) With everyone arriving earlier than expected, this normal 'arrival day', turned into a full birding

day around Delhi. India's remarkable capital is arguably the best birding city in the world. As if to

prove this, we scored over 100 bird species on our first day alone by visiting just one site – the

impressive Sultanpur Jheel, which is about an hour and a halfʼs drive from the city centre. We

started on the outskirts of the wetlands where there are many dry country species, and it is

particularly good for larks, wheatears and pipits. Tawny Pipits sat alongside Indian Bush-lark and

Variable Wheatears were seen next to Yellow-wattled Lapwings. After this heady start we went

inside the wetlands complex which brought us a host of waterbirds, including our first Indian Spot-

billed Ducks, White-tailed Lapwings, Pied Avocets, Purple Swamphens, and Western Marsh-

Harriers cruising the reedbeds. Other birds that we only recorded there, included an ivory-billed

Asian Koel and the accipiter-like Common Hawk-Cuckoo (bizarrely also commonly known as the

'Brainfever Bird' to Indian birders). The reedbeds held our first Red Avadavats and Indian Silverbills,

while several 'sibes', in the form of gorgeous Bluethroats, hopped in and out of the undergrowth

below them. Painted Storks flew too and fro from their nesting and roosting areas and we were

blessed by a great view of a dark-morph Booted Eagle. We also located many widespread Indian

plains birds, including Black Kite, Red-wattled Lapwing, Little Swift, White-throated Kingfisher, Black

The impressive Qutub Minar (left), sculpted by Mogul craftsmen in 1192, held some Alexandrine Parakeets (right). Keith Barnes.


Drongo, Asian Pied Starling, Common and Bank Mynas, House Crow and Red-vented Bulbul. We

headed into the restaurant at the park which delivered a hearty Indian Curry ʻfeedʼ including our first

taste of one of India's awesome tandooris, before we headed for the Qutub Minar, a great antiquities

site right in the middle of New Delhi. The red sandstone walls carved by great Mogul craftsmen in

1192 played host to a whole bunch of Dusky Crag Matins, large groups of Yellow-footed Green

Pigeons passed overhead on their way to roost in the city and the noisy Rose-ringed Parakeets

were joined by the bulkier Alexandrine Parakeets. With over 100 species seen on this first day alone

we 'off to a flyer' as they say, and we retired to a quiet retreat on the outskirts of Delhi.

29 Nov: Delhi to Naini Tal via Okhla Barrage and Ganges River

Okhla Barrage is a good wetland preserve on the northern outskirts of Delhi. A pre-dawn start

from our hotel put us at the preserve gates at dawn, and ensured that we escaped the traffic that

would ravage the city later in the morning. Walking through some scrub verged by marsh brought us

some nice birds like Yellow-footed Pigeon, Green Bee-eater, Ashy and Plain Prinias, Humeʼs

Warbler, and Common Rosefinch. We eventually arrived at a point overlooking a wide expanse of

A good-looking pair of Yellow-footed Pigeons that we saw during our

birding at Okhla Barrage.


marsh and open water. Here highlights included a Comb Duck, several Common Pochard, and a

flyby flock of Black-tailed Godwits. On another trail that delved into some deep reedbeds, we

focused on the specialty birds of the reserve: Yellow-bellied Prinia and Striated Babbler. Though it

took some searching, we eventually located both species, along with some other good marsh

species like the hefty Greater Coucal, dinky Indian Silverbill, and gem-like Red Avadavat. On our

way out, we saw a flock of European Starlings that would prove to be the only ones of the trip!

We knew all along that driving to the Himalayan foothills would take most of the day, but an

unusual amount of traffic along with some construction and an accident or two made this quite a

long journey. At mid-day, our trip was broken up by a stop at the famous Ganges River. Birds were

strangely scarce on the river, with the normal gulls completely absent. A short walk along the shores

of the sacred river did turn up River Lapwing, an outstandingly good-looking bird even among the

generally attractive lapwings. Most of our drive was through the incredibly densely populated

Ganges Plain. The sheer mass of humanity on this stretch of the earth is difficult to fathom. Hour

after hour we drove along, never seeming to leave what is essentially one huge village covering

1000s of square kilometers. You never truly ʻescapeʼ into the countryside here. We did spot one nice

bird in this kind of setting: a little group of Black Ibis. By the time we arrived in the Himalayan

Birding the Okhla reedbeds turned up Indian Silverbill, plus several other great species.


foothills, it was already dark, but our tardiness paid off when a leopard streaked across the road to

the delight of the people in the first half of the bus who managed to see it. Although the foothills

arenʼt as filled with people as the plain above, it was still amazing to see a leopard here. Finally, we

arrived at our comfortable hotel in Sat Tal. The air was clear and cool, and the smell of pines was on

the air… we couldnʼt wait to see what the morning in this completely different habitat would bring…

30 Nov: Morning at Sattal, afternoon at Kainchidam

Few things are better than waking up in the mountains, let alone in the storied Himalayas, and

with a whole range of fantastic birds to look for! We were able to start walking and birding directly

from our well-situated hotel, a blessing after the time in the bus the previous day! The birds came

thick and fast as we ventured into the pines, oaks, and scrub of these middle-elevation foothills.

Some of the first were corvids: the sturdy Black-headed Jay, gorgeous long-tailed Blue Magpie, and

handsome Rufous Treepie. Birding an open, scrubby area that is traditionally good for accentors

and rubythroats turned up a Black-throated Accentor and a Siberian Rubythroat, though both proved

quite elusive and were not seen by many. A noisy flock of Slaty-headed Parakeets shot by, the first

of many that weʼd see in the mountains. A little group of the classy Red-billed Leothrix was much

enjoyed by all. A Bonelliʼs Eagle perched on an adjacent hillside provided an enjoyable scope view

Gray Bushchat (left) is quite a common bird in the Himalayas. We enjoyed our first of many views near Sattal. Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush (right) is less common; we only saw one group.


of a raptor.

Moving into a beautiful pine and oak woodland brought us our first good flock. At this time of

the year, none of the birds are breeding, and most birds, particularly those that have moved down

from higher elevations, occur in large flocks. These mixed Himalayan flocks rival those of the

neotropics for the most varied, exciting, and interesting in the world. Our first flock contained prizes

like Brown-fronted Woodpecker, Gray-hooded Warbler, Slaty-blue Flycatcher, Great, Green-backed,

and Black-lored Tits, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, and Speckled Piculet.

These were moments of madness as people rushed to spot one new bird after another amidst the

chaotic movements of this large flock, and all while perched on a fairly steep slope in the middle of

the forest! The strident vocalizations of laughingthrushes could often be heard in the distance, and

we succeeded in calling in and getting wonderful views of three species in our first morning: White-

throated, Rufous-chinned, and Streaked. These big, bold birds are among the most exciting and

quintessential of Asian birds. Watching the sky in the late morning paid dividends, with Himalayan

Griffon, Steppe Eagle, and Mountain Hawk-Eagle soaring through the blue sky over our heads.

Red-vented Bulbul (left) and Slaty-headed Parrot (right)

looking good in morning light at Sattal.


Descending into a valley with a stream at the bottom brought us some new birds. White-

capped Redstarts hopped about the rocks and culverts, while a Gray-sided Bush-Warbler skulked in

a thicket but was eventually seen by all. The ultimate in Asian streamside birds came in the form of

a stunning Spotted Forktail. Everyone who has seen a forktail knows that these birds have a special

charisma to them that is hard to describe but impossible to deny. Other highlights of this first, star-

studded mountain morning were Great and Blue-throated Barbets, gawdy woodpecker Greater

Yellownape, Asian and Nepal Martins, Olive-backed Pipit, White-cheeked and Black Bulbuls,

Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush, hefty Blue Whistling-Thrush, Gray-breasted Prinia, Ultramarine

Flycatcher, Blue-capped Redstart, Black-chinned Babbler, and Yellow-breasted Greenfinch. On the

mammal front, we spotted lots of Hanuman Langur plus a shy Indian Muntjac.

After lunch and a short rest, we headed to Kainchidam, in a different valley. The moist,

streamside forest here was different from where we had spent the morning, and held a fine haul of

new birds. One of the first was a feisty Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler, named for its long and

decurved bill. On the stream itself were a Common Kingfisher, Plumbeous Redstart, and the dayʼs

Along the stream where we saw our first forktail, there is a small pond, where some Hanuman langurs came to drink.


second forktail: the scarce Slaty-backed. The undoubted highlight of this excursion was a big Tawny

Fish-Owl that flushed, flew a short distance, and then settled in view of everyone: a spectacular

sighting of a spectacular bird. There were lots of Phylloscopus warblers around, and after careful

observation we were able to pick out Buff-barred, Ashy-throated, and Lemon-rumped. Additional

new species included Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Verditer Flycatcher, Himalayan Red-flanked

Bluetail, Yellow-bellied and White-throated Fantails, Whiskered Yuhina, and White-bellied Drongo.

Right at dusk, a beautiful Kalij Pheasant flew into a roost at the top of a tree. Although it tried to hide

in a dense vine tangle, we managed to find just the right angle, and set up a scope for all to enjoy a

good view, a great way to end a truly wonderful day in the Himalayas.

1 Dec: Upper Sat Tal and Pangot

Although we had done very well on the previous day, there were a couple of species missing

in the Sattal area, and we set out to find these in a brief morning excursion before departing for

Pangot. Almost immediately we found an Asian Barred Owlet perched in a tree right above the road.

Soon after, we heard, then coaxed into view the cryptic little Scaly-breasted Wren-Babbler. This

species had called but avoided being seen the previous day, so sighting this mega skulker was

most satisfying. A Blue-throated Barbet showed very well in glorious morning light to much applause

from the group. In contrast to the skulky rubythroat of the previous day, this morning we found a

White-tailed Rubythroat that cooperated quite well for the whole group.

Tawny Fish-Owl (left) and Kalij Pheasant (right) were the two best birds of a fantastic afternoon walk at Kainchidam


Quite satisfied with our efforts in the Sattal area, we moved on to Pangot, lying at slightly

higher elevations, and holding a significantly different bunch of birds. On our drive upwards, we

came around a corner to find the whole central part of the high Himalayas in view in the gloriously

clear mountain air. Seeing this mountain range for the first time ranks among the most amazing

experiences to be had for a world traveler. We stopped and soaked in this magnificent sight for a

good 30 minutes before resuming our birding. Thankfully these would not be our last views, as the

mountains would be frequently in view for the next two days. At this higher elevation we were still

mainly birding flocks, though the composition of the flocks had changed slightly. Here we picked up

Asian Barred-Owlet (left) with the crescent moon in the background, a welcome last-minute sighting at Sattal. This Blue-throated Barbet (right) almost glowed in the morning light.


Black-faced Warbler, the drab but spunky Yellow-browed Tit, the smart Spot-winged Tit, and White-

tailed Nuthatch. We were to find sunbirds strangely scarce throughout our time in the mountains, so

a lone Green-tailed was a welcome sight. A White-collared Blackbird that flew across a valley below

us was unfortunately only seen well by Keith and Ken. A Lammergeier floated just overhead, our

only sighting of the trip of this big, bone-smashing vulture.

Around lunchtime, we arrived at our lodge, which though simple, offered wonderful hospitality,

excellent food, and fine views of the mountains. Birdfeeders here pull in some nice species like

Black-headed Jay and Streaked Laughingthrush. Our afternoon was spent birding the pine forest

and scrub below our hotel. Though the flow of new birds was starting to slow down, we did spot a

pair of nice woodpeckers: Rufous-bellied Woodpecker and Lesser Yellownape. A flock of Chestnut-

crowned Laughingthrushes was called in and much enjoyed. Other new sightings included Long-

tailed Minivet and Blue-fronted Redstart. A Black Francolin calling from the edge of a cultivated field

unfortunately managed to avoid being spotted.

Lesser Yellownape (left) and Spot-winged Tit (right) are just two of myriad gems of Himalayan birding. There is something special about the birds in this part of the world.


2 Dec: Vinayak and Pangot Road

We departed very early in the morning in hopes of seeing Koklass Pheasant on the road

above Pangot. Although we heard some pheasants at close range, we never managed to sight this

elusive species. A Besra and a flock of Eurasian Jays were some consolation. Above Pangot lies a

site that is good for Cheer Pheasant, though the chances of spotting this bird are never great. After

a couple of hours of searching, we managed to hear the bird in the valley far below, but never saw

it. There were some new birds around in the form of a flock of Himalayan Accentors and a sharp-

looking Rock Bunting.

Although it was becoming difficult to find new birds, our afternoon excursion was not without

rewards. A Himalayan Woodpecker was seen excavating a tall pine tree, and a Black-throated

Sunbird showed well. The best birds of the afternoon were two new laughingthrushes: White-crested

and Striated. These completed our sweep of the potential members of this very charismatic and

typically Himalayan group.

Himalayan Bulbul (left) is among the most ornate bulbuls in the world whereas Himalayan

Woodpecker (right) looks much like other members of its genus elsewhere in the world.


3 Dec: Ramnagar Area

We left Pangot early to head to the Ramnagar area. Although the change in elevation is not

huge, it results in a change in the habitat from predominately pine and oak forest to much lusher-

looking broadleaf forest. There is much overlap in the birds of the two habitats, but of course lots of

new things to search for in the lower forest. On the way down, we enjoyed our last views of the

Himalayan range and checked some spots for Koklass Pheasant, which again failed to cooperate.

Our first birding stop in the lower-lying country around Ramnagar was at a bridge where we spotted

a variety of waterbirds like Little Cormorant, Indian Pond-Heron, and Ruddy Shelduck. A huge

Crested Kingfisher flew in, and was much enjoyed, as were several Crested Treeswifts that were

circling overhead. A pair of White-rumped Vultures was present on a nearby nest known by our

skilled local guide. While enjoying the vultures, an increasingly rare sight in India, we also spotted

two great woodpeckers: a diminutive Brown-capped and a surprising and very welcome White-

naped. The latter was a species that we had not expected to find until the tiger extension at the end

of the trip. Just as we were re-boarding the bus, another fantastic bird popped into view: a Velvet-

fronted Nuthatch. With its yellow eye, red bill, and electric-blue back, this is not your run-of-the-mill

nuthatch!

A pair of very cool birds with ‘crested’ in the name that we saw on the Kosi River:

Crested Kingfisher (left) and Crested Treeswift (right).


Our next birding stop was to prove one of the best of the trip. We were in pursuit of Ibisbill, a

great-looking bird that comprises a monotypic family, and is one of the most sought-after birds in

Asia. Almost immediately after walking onto a bridge over the Kosi River, we spotted a wallcreeper,

another monotypic family, and another of the worldʼs coolest birds. Mere seconds after getting

everyone on the wallcreeper, we spotted an Ibisbill flying in… two monotypic families and two of the

best birds in the world within a minute of each other! The Ibisbill actually flew under the bridge, then

landed on the boulder-strewn shore just below us. Although this is a fairly large bird with a bright red

bill, and although we knew exactly where it had settled, it still took us several minutes of searching

to spot the bird. This made us realize the full extent of the task we would have faced in combing

these hundreds of acres of boulders if the bird had not cooperated so beautifully.

Our great success with our main target bird left us lots of time before lunch to explore the

adjacent scrub and forest before lunch. We quickly picked up a good flock, and found some great

new birds like Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker, Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, and Gray-headed

Canary-Flycatcher. An Oriental Magpie-Robin pished out of some scrubby vegetation was the first of

the trip, and the first of many. Watching the open sky over the river paid off with a pair of new

vultures: Cinereous and Red-headed. An exquisite Collared Falconet perched on a snag, and would

have contended for ʻbest bird of the dayʼ on a less exceptional day. As we settled into our hotel, then

dove into an amazing buffet of curries and other Indian delicacies, the day already seemed full and

The Ibisbill is an awesome shorebird-like bird that makes up its own family. This one flew in and landed in the rocks just below the bridge from which we were searching for it.


complete… it was hard to believe that we still had the afternoon at our disposal, and that more new

sightings awaited!

After a siesta, enjoying our peaceful hotel and its extensive gardens, we headed to a new site

adjacent Corbett National Park. It was the kind of birding spot that is unprepossessing but holds

loads of birds. Open fields held several Yellow-wattled Lapwings and Oriental Skylarks, plus a

handsome Variable Wheatear. An Indian Roller was spotted on a nearby fence post, and in

approaching it to take a photo, Ken flushed a Common Snipe out of a marshy area. Lots of Plum-

headed Parakeets flew by, with some eventually perching for good views. Some dense scrub held a

flock of wintering Spanish Sparrows, and a Brahminy Starling that popped up was the first of the trip.

More forested areas nearby also held some great birds, the best of which was an unexpected Blue-

bearded Bee-eater. Here we also found Oriental Pied Hornbill, Linneated and Coppersmith Barbets,

and Spangled Drongo.

4 Dec: Forktail Creek, Kumeria and Kosi River This day was focused on the moist, broadleafed forest along the Kosi River, on the verge or

Corbett National Park. The news that a man-eating tiger had left the park and been sighted in the

area added a bit of spice to the day, and ensured that we didnʼt wander too far into the bush, mainly

restricting our birding to well-travelled roads and trails! As we drove from our hotel, we scared a

couple of Red Junglefowl off the road. Itʼs always amazing to see this progenitor of the domestic

India is like the Ethiopia of Asia… a place where birds and people coexist peacefully. Here an Indian Roller (left) perches next to some drying laundry. Oriental Pied Hornbill (right) was a nice find on

our first afternoon at Ramnagar.


chicken in the wild, and even more amazing to hear its familiar call! The streamside forest where we

spent the morning was quite beautiful, reminiscent of a deciduous temperate forest at the height of

boreal summer. Chestnut-headed Tesia, a great little warbler that is shaped like a mini-pitta, skulked

in a dense thicket, but was eventually seen well by all. A strikingly patterned Crested Serpent-Eagle

that flew by was our first of the trip. The stream held lots of White-capped Redstarts, plus a noisy

pair of Crested Kingfishers that really showed off in the morning light. We found and much enjoyed a

small flock of Green Magpies, yet another great-looking corvid in these Himalayan foothills. Other

sightings during our slow-paced but productive morning walk included Gray-capped and Gray-faced

Woodpeckers, Scarlet Minivet, Small and Rufous-bellied Niltavas, Black-chinned Yuhina, and

Bronzed Drongo. Just as we were about to leave, we spotted an Asian elephant on a nearby

hillside; it is always encouraging to see a big mammal outside of a national park. Brown Dipper was

high on the ʻwant listʼ of many of the participants, and this was our main target when we stopped to

bird the Quality Inn area. After a short search, we turned up a couple of dippers. Though these

arenʼt the most colorful of birds, their unique behavior and exuberance make them a joy to watch.

Scouring the riverside boulders at another spot turned up a variety of wagtails, plus a Richardʼs

Pipit.

Jungle Owlet (left), and lots of White-capped Redstarts (right) were some of the highlights of the

full day spent birding the Kumeria / Ranmagar area.


In the late afternoon, we birded another area adjacent the national park. Although we were

starting to run out of new birds, we still turned up a Black Stork that was soaring overhead, a Jungle

Owlet that was calling, then flew in to our recordings, and a very tame Streak-throated Woodpecker.

Tigers were on the mind, and when we heard some alarm calls from sambar in an adjacent forest,

we quickly retreated to the bus and called it a day!

5 Dec: Corbett NP After two days of birding along its fringes, we were very eager to bird inside of the famous Jim

Corbett National Park. This is a large stretch of tall broadleaf forest, wild rivers gushing out of the

mountains, lakes, grasslands, and marshes. It seems amazing that such a big and wild place can

exist in such close proximity to the masses of humanity on the Ganges Plain! Because of the

presence of tiger and leopard, we mainly bird this park from the back of ʻgypsyʼ jeeps, the Indian

equivalent of the African landrover. Cruising through this beautiful and wild park in the crisp morning

air, spotting lots of big mammals like sambar, Indian muntjac, spotted deer, wild boar, and golden

jackal, was completely different from the birding we had done so far on the trip, and quite an

exhilarating experience. Mammals are the focus for most of the parkʼs visitors, but Corbett holds

good birds too, though birding from the vehicle can make birding a challenge. A small clearing in the

forest had a lot of activity early in the morning. Here we found Red-breasted Parakeet, Ashy Bulbul,

The water in this Corbett NP river is so clear that this Gharial almost seems

to be floating in mid-air!


Red-throated Flycatcher, Black-hooded Oriole, and more Velvet-fronted Nuthatches. Continuing

deeper into the park, we made a stop at a river overlook. The high bluff and clear waters of the river

allow you to look down into some deep pools that are full of mugger crocodiles, Indian flap-shelled

turtles, and prehistoric-looking gharials. More than any other place we saw on this trip, this spot

seemed to give a glimpse at the older and wilder India that is under such serious threat. As we

marveled at the massive crocodilians below, a Pallasʼs Fish-Eagle flew by, while the rocky shoreline

held a Little Ringed Plover. The gypsies decided to split up at mid-morning, and one of the vehicles

was lucky enough to find a Long-billed Thrush, an Emerald Dove feeding on the road, Puff-throated

Babblers, and a Common Woodshike. The other cars saw Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Imperial Eagle,

and White-rumped Needletail. Those who arrived early at the national park restcamp found another

Jungle Owlet, plus Common Iora, and photographed some tame camp birds like Spotted Dove.

The first mission for the afternoon was to look for two more species of owls whose day roosts

are well known. We quickly succeeded in locating Brown Fish-Owl and Brown Wood-Owl. The

number of owls that can be found in broad daylight in India is simply astounding! Some tall forest

was generally quiet, but held a couple new woodpeckers: Rufous Woodpecker and Himalayan

Scarlet Minivet (left) and Long-billed Thrush (right) were seen during our full day in Corbett.


Flameback. A Changeable Hawk-Eagle perched up nicely for all to see, while a Black-necked Stork

fed in a riverside marsh. There were rumours of a tiger in the area, so one jeep looked for tigers

while the other two continued birding for the last two hours of daylight. The first jeep didnʼt find its

striped quarry, but the other two enjoyed some mammalian success in the form of a large herd of

Indian elephants. Black Francolins also walked into the open, and were quite welcome after having

only heard this species earlier. The final sighting of the day came after dark as we were relaxing at

the camp. An Indian porcupine walked out onto the lawn, a great chance to see this normally

reclusive animal.

Brown Fish-Owl (right) on a day roost in Corbett. Rufous Treepie (left)

is pretty common in the Himalayan foothills.


6 Dec: Corbett NP to Delhi

This was a mainly a travel day, making the long trip out of Corbett and across the Ganges

Plain back to Delhi. We did some birding on the way out of the park, and picked up Large Cuckoo-

shrike, plus a Great Slaty Woodpecker that called, was glimpsed by some, and then disappeared.

The drive went more quickly than on the northbound trip, and at the end of the day, we found

ourselves back at our peaceful guesthouse in Delhi, prepared for the southern leg of the main tour.

7 Dec: Delhi to Bharatpur We again left Delhi early to escape the worst of the traffic. Our first stop was at a wetland

south of the city. Its gritty, sub-urban setting and the low-hanging mist / smog didnʼt promise much,

but we quickly began finding lots of birds. At the

edges of the marsh were Brown Crakes, White-

breasted Waterhens, and Bronze-winged

Jacanas. Small patches of reeds surrendered

two good birds: the Graceful Prinia that has a

large worldwide range, but is difficult to find on

this tour, and Bengal Weaver, which is always

tricky during the non-breeding season. One of

the ponds in the area had lots of exposed mud,

and was crawling with Palearctic shorebirds.

The best of these was White-tailed Lapwing, but

there was also Green Sandpiper, Spotted and

Common Redshank, Marsh Sandpiper,

Temminckʼs Stint, and Ruff. We loaded back

into the bus and continued south, but didnʼt get

far before Keith spotted a pair of Sarus Cranes

standing in a cultivated field. We slammed on

the brakes and enjoyed scope views of this

monstrous crane. Sarus Crane is the tallest flying bird in the world.


As we got close to Bharatpur, we found the road blocked by two trucks that had apparantly

broken down side-by-side, facing in the same direction. This could only happen in India! We were

forced to take a lengthy detour on small, country roads. Initially, this seemed like a major

inconvenience, but this drive turned into quite an interesting cultural adventure that was enjoyed by

everyone on the tour. For the first time, we were seeing people who didnʼt regularly see foreigners.

We were also getting a closeup look at life in rural India. For a country with as much wealth and

ʻdevelopmentʼ as India, itʼs amazing how simple life in much of this country can be. The population

densities continued to be incredible. Every square inch of space is used somehow, and every ounce

of cow dung is collected to be re-used a fuel; a necessity in a place where the forest has been gone

for eons, and where there is no room for tree plantations.

In the town of Bharatpur, we checked into our hotel, which was the former palace of a

maharaja. The grounds here looked like a miniature version of Versailles. The palace contained

hundreds of rooms… endless corridors, libraries, studies, lounges, grand ballrooms, and we were

almost the only people staying here! In most of the world this place would be a major historical site,

whereas in India itʼs a mostly-empty hotel!

Greater Painted-Snipe, one of the nice species we saw in scruffy habitat in Bharatpur town.


The late afternoon was spent birding some wetlands within the town of Bharatpur. Although

these places have zero aesthetic value, they do hold some good birds. The first thing we found was

a group of over a dozen Greater Painted-Snipes at unbelievably close range. Birding along a trail

bordered by some scrub turned up White-eared Bulbul, Pied Bushchat, and Large Gray Babbler,

common birds of the plains that we would be seeing frequently in coming days. As the day was

getting late, we found a little group of snipe. The first few we checked were Common Snipe, but a

little runty one stood out, and proved to be a Jack Snipe, a lifer for most of the group including Keith

and Ken!

8 Dec: Keoladeo Ghana NP

Today we spent the whole day birding Keoladeo Ghana National Park, which is often referred

to simply as ʻBharatpurʼ, one of the crown jewels of Indian birding. This park consists of dry scrub

and seasonally flooded wetlands. It is one of the few wetlands available to birds in this heavily

populated and human-modified area, and acts as a magnet that draws both local species and huge

numbers of migrants from the north. The first stretch of the park that we passed through was very

dry, and seemed un-promising, but when we arrived at some pans that held water, it was easy to

understand why this is one of the most famous birding sites in the world. There were vast numbers

Black-necked Stork (left) and White-breasted Waterhen (right) are two of the large range of

waterbirds found at Bharatpur.


of birds… many species of waterfowl including Lesser Whistling-Duck, Comb Duck, Garganey, Red-

crested Pochard, Tufted Duck, and Greylag and Bar-headed Geese, a full complement of herons

and egrets, three species of cormorants, huge numbers of Eurasian Coots, and large numbers of

wintering and local shorebirds. A large nesting colony of beautiful Painted Storks was a wonderful

sight, with birds flying in and out, chicks begging, and all the other activities of a bustling rookery.

Other interesting wading birds included quite a few Asian Openbill, one Black-necked Stork, and

many Eurasian Spoonbill. With such an overwhelming number of birds, we had to sift through the

avian masses and vast stretches of habitat to pick up prizes like Cotton Pygmy-Goose and

Pheasant-tailed Jacana. Marshy areas along the edge of the pans are also worthy of attention; here

we picked up Blythʼs Reed-Warbler, Clamorous Reed-Warbler, Dusky Warbler, and Bluethroat. One

of many amazing things about Bharatpur is that there are lots of big mammals around. This year,

there was even a tiger that had somehow crossed 100s of kms of densely populated country to

reach this park! This resulted in more than half of the park being closed, but thankfully these were

not critical birding areas. The tiger had plenty of prey to choose from, like the sambar deer and huge

Nilgai or ʻblue bullʼ.

Although it is the less celebrated of the habitats in the park, the scrubby woodland areas also

hold excellent birds. Chief among these are the nocturnal species whose roosts are well known by

local bird guides and rickshaw drivers. We enjoyed sightings of Indian Scops-Owl, Dusky Eagle-

Owl, Spotted Owlet, Gray Nightjar, and Large-tailed Nightjar. Northern India has to be the best place

Indian Scops-Owls (left) on a day roost, just one of many nocturnal birds whose diurnal haunts in Keoladeo Ghana are well known. The dry woodland in the park holds birds like Indian Robin (right).


on earth to see owls during the day! Other finds during our woodland birding included Gray

Francolin, Brown-headed Barbet, Coppersmith Barbet, Black-rumped Flameback, Small Minivet,

Orange-headed Thrush, Black Redstart, Asian Paradise-Flycatcher, Bay-backed Shrike, Ashy

Drongo, and Chestnut-shouldered Petronia. Bharatpur attracts a lot of raptors. We spotted Oriental

Honey-Buzzard, Shikra, Booted Eagle, plus the tricky-to-separate Indian and Greater Spotted

Eagles. When we retreated to our palace hotel at the end of the day, our heads were spinning with

the number of new birds, and the sheer number of individual birds we had seen. Bharatpurʼs

reputation as a great birding site is well deserved, at least as long as it holds some water as it

thankfully did this year.

9 Dec: Bayena and Bund Baretha After our monstrous previous day in the national park, there werenʼt huge numbers of new

birds left to find in the area, so this was a day of filling in gaps in the list. We headed to some nearby

wetland areas that are surrounded by scrubby habitat that is slightly drier and more open than that

found in Keoladeo Ghana. Our first stop was at an area of reedbeds and scrub along the main road

that seems unremarkable, but always seems to hold a couple of good birds. This year was no

exception. Black-headed Munias and Red-headed Bunting flitted about the tall grasses, while a

Red-collared Dove was the first of the trip, and beautiful views of a couple of Plum-headed

Parakeets were much enjoyed.

Sambar (left) is one of the big mammals species found in Bharatpur. Bar-winged Geese (right), famous for their high flights over the Himalayas on migration, winter in the park.


Indian Vulture has declined precipitiously, along with the rest of the subcontinentʼs vultures.

Thankfully, a few are hanging on, and we saw good numbers on a cliff where they breed. There

were a couple of other rock specialists here as well: Dusky Crag-Martin and a wintering Sulphur-

bellied Warbler. We arrived at the lake of Bund Baretha to find the water levels very high, with little

exposed shoreline and few birds on our first scan. Working our way around the edge of the lake did

pay off eventually though. A Black Bittern flushed and flew over our heads slowly enough that

everyone managed to see it. A Pintail Snipe did much the same, but flew so fast that only a couple

people got on it. Whiskered Terns coursing over the water were our first terns of the trip. An Imperial

Eagle perched up conspicuously, as did a small flock of non-breeding Rosy Starlings. Walking up a

rocky hill paid off when we stumbled into a covey of Jungle Bush-Quail. They were shy at first, but

we waited at a good vantage point until the quail walked into the open. A Crested Bunting showed

briefly as we walked back down the hill to the lakeside track.

River Lapwing and Great Thick-knee are two outstandingly cool birds found on the banks of the

Chambal River.


10 Dec: Chambal River, Talabshai and Dolphur

Although the rivers of India are under heavy pressure from the countryʼs huge population, the

Chambal River is still in fairly good condition, and holds some special bird and mammal species.

Today we headed to the river for a boat trip to seek out these species. We normally only do one

boat trip, a little later in the trip, but we heard that some of the key species were hard to find on the

normal stretch of river, so we arranged this extra boat trip to a different stretch of river. There were

lots of birds in evidence as soon as we left the dock. One of the first was a couple of Great Thick-

knees. Thick-knees are generally weird and wonderful, and this species is the weirdest and most

wonderful of the bunch! With it were some more River Lapwings, quite common along the banks of

the Chambal. Eurasian waterfowl and shorebirds were much in evidence, and included Greylag

Goose, Eurasian Wigeon, and Snowy Plover. A wintering Osprey that flew by was one of few

sightings on the trip. An even better raptor was a Red-necked Falcon that blasted up the river,

putting terror into the shorebirds for miles around. Indiaʼs rivers support two great-looking terns, and

we found both: River and Black-bellied. Indian Skimmer is one of the major targets of this trip, so we

were happy to find a sandbar attended by a good number of these freshwater skimmers. Scanning a

cliff next to the river produced the only Barn Owl of the trip, plus another Spotted Owlet. The sandy

riverbanks held a Desert Wheatear. Some had glimpses of Ganges river dolphin, though they

proved quite elusive this year.

A group of Indian Skimmers on a sandbar in the Chambal. This freshwater skimmer has

suffered as the rivers of India become increasingly populated and polluted.


Birding our way back from the departure point of the boat trip, we stopped at Talabshai, a lake

that was formerly a pleasureland of the maharajas. The empty palaces and dilapidated water control

structure here give the place an eerie feel. Although this site can be good in years when Bharatpur

is dry, there wasnʼt much on this visit. A couple of Ferruginous Pochards were spotted far out on the

lake amid more common species of waterfowl. On the way back to the bus, we found a flock of

seed-eating birds that contained both a Black-headed Bunting and a Baya Weaver.

We scoured some dry and desert-like country for larks and wheaters, and came up with

smart-looking Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark, cryptic Greater Short-toed Lark, sand-coloured

Isabelline Wheatear, and our only Southern Gray Shrike of the trip. We found a roadside pond

heaving with birds, including more Black-bellied Terns, and our first Dunlin of the trip.

11 Dec: Cultural Day: Fatepur Sikri, Taj Mahal, and Agra Fort Having managed the birding in this area, we spent our last day exploring the cultural icons of

the golden Triangle, more specifically the Taj Mahal and Red Fort at Agra and the abandoned city of

Fatepur Sikri. We started the day at Fathepur Sikri, the deserted city of Emperor Akbar. It literally

means ʻThe City of Victoryʼ and is one of the lesser-known, yet more impressive ruins in the area.

After that we were off to Agra for lunch and then onto one of the world's most impressive cultural

icons. The Taj is a mausoleum of ethereal beauty built by the Mogul emperor Shah Jahan in

memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal. It is one of the seven wonders of the world and once again it

exceeded our expectations. Its beauty, serenity, and symmetry are legendary. This immense

Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark (right) is a bird of dry country like that in the Dolphur District. Ruddy Shelduck (left) in flight over the Chambal River.


building seems to float on its white marble plinth. After exploring this fabulous structure we visited

the Agra Fort, a massive yet elegant structure of gigantic red sandstone blocks started during the

reign of the Mogul emperor Akbar. The maze of courtyards, mosques and private chambers of the

fort echo the story of the Mughal Empirem, and reflect the skill of the ancient Indian architects and

artists. Here, in this romantic setting, we looked out from the room where Shah Jahan was

imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb and see the distant outline of the lovely monument he built for his

wife - the Taj Mahal - further along the Yamuna River. We headed to the Chambal Safari Lodge with

minds full of marvellous stories of the past and deeply impressed by the workmanship of these great

Mughal monuments.

12 Dec: Chambal – Kanha NP

On the final morning of the main tour, we did the normally scheduled boat trip on the Chambal

River, from our convenient base at the safari lodge. Birding a patch of woodland on the way down to

the river turned up the scarce Brooksʼs Leaf-Warbler among more common wintering warblers. After

our highly successful earlier boat trip, there was little new to find on this go-around, but we still

thoroughly enjoyed a relaxing trip on this wild river. There were second views of great birds like

Great Thick-Knee, and lots of huge mugger crocodiles and gharials resting on islands in the river.

Back at the lodge, we ventured into the garden to look for Brown Hawk-Owl, which we found

roosting in a thick tree. This was the tenth and final species of owl that we found on this drip during

daylight hours! After another incredible lunch served up on tables that the staff had moved into the

garden, we said goodbye to Ken, who by this stage had been dubbed The Mountain Man, or

Birding by boat on the Chambal River (right; Keith Barnes). The well-named mugger crocodile (left).


occasionally simply “The Mountain” to his closest friends, and Jim, who must take credit for coming

up with the awesome nickname, and the rest of us made for Agra, and the unforgettable train

journey to Jabalpur. After all the heavy preparation Keith had given the group as to how interesting

this train journey can be, it was underwhelming and somewhat disappointing when the train arrived

almost exactly on time and involved no pushing or jostling to get on, and then, we ended up with

pretty plush cabins to boot. Keith was suitably disappointed, but most of the participants were

delighted! Anyway, we tucked into our boxed dinners and then got some sleep.

13 Dec: Kanha NP

We arrived at Jabalur near 7 am, had a good breakfast, and made for the park. It was a 4-

hour drive and we made a few birding stops en route. Kanha is a diverse park and it boasts a broad

swathe of Sal Forest, mixed forests, Saj (Terminalia tomentosa), Dhaora (Anogeissus latifolia),

Tendu (Diospyros melanoxylon) and Amla (Emblica officinalis) in the higher elevations of the hills.

There are also extensive stands of bamboo and grasslands. We geared up for our first safari that

afternoon. We started off by finding some excellent Gaur right next to the road. This elegant Buffalo

is superb looking, and we also found Swamp, Spotted and Sambar Deer. On the bird front we

scored an excellent couple of White-bellied and Greater Racket-tailed Drongos, wrapping up all of

Sun filters into the forest early in the morning in Kanha. Keith Barnes.


the available Indian drongos on this trip. We also located Spotted and Jungle Owlets at close

quarters. A stunning White-rumped Shama showed well in a bamboo clump and we heard Black-

crested Monarch and Brown-cheeked Fulvetta. We then returned to the excellent Krishna Resort,

where we thoroughly enjoyed the fine Madhaya Pradesh hospitality on offer.

14-16 Dec: Kanha NP. Our main objective here was to find Bengal Tigers. Kanha has a reputation for being one of

the top parks in the world for sightings of this incredible cat. Our stay though was to be fraught with

frustration, as drive after drive did not connect us with the quarry. What was worse, none of the

other groups that were visiting at the time were having any luck either. In the past I have gone a few

days without seeing them, but there was always a success story or two when the jeeps gathered at

a communal breakfast point, giving you hope and a sense that the cats were out there. But on this

visit, that was not happening. For 3 and a half days we encountered 30-40 gypsy jeeps that were

scouring the park with virtually all of them failing to find a Tiger. What was even more bizarre was

The immaculate and scarce Dhole, shortly after we watched them tear a young Sambar to pieces! Seeing this predator make a kill was amongst the highlights of

Keith’s wildlife-watching career. Keith Barnes.


the lack of Tiger pugmarks, or any alarm calls by deer. It seemed a case of the cats not just being

elusive, but actually not being there at all. We can only hope that Kanha has not suffered a similar

fate to Ranthambore in 1995 when a quick spree of poaching reduced the number of cats in the

park dramatically and in a short time, decimating the tourism to the region for a decade. The Indian

government is in denial about Tiger poaching and one feels that if you have any ambitions at all of

seeing this sublime predator the sooner you visit the better. But do not expect the hunt to be easy; it

was certainly a serious challenge for us. After three days of frantic searching, the group decided to

relax and just enjoy the serene nature of this sunning reserve. Kanha supports good densities of

other wildlife and we enjoyed Sambar and Spotted Deer, saw a hunting Jungle Cat and almost had

a second Leopard of the trip, but arrived just a bit too late. The local population of the endangered

Swamp Deer was also seen with some regularity as was the elegant Gaur, or India Bison. At one

stage, Vultures dropping to the

ground revealed one of the finest

moments of the tour when we

encountered a pack of Dhole

(Indian Hunting Dog) tearing to

pieces the carcass of a young

Sambar Deer. It was thrilling to

watch this seldom seen predator

in action! Shortly afterwards we

were even luckier when they

decided to come trotting across

the road right in front of our car!

Because we were

struggling to find Tigers, the

drives took on more and more of

a single-minded approach, and

we did not do too much birding,

but we did add some excellent

new species to our trip list A young Crested Hawk-Eagle with the carcass of a Red

Spurfowl, a species we did not manage to see in life on the trip! Keith Barnes.


including Gray-headed Fish Eagle, Indian Scimitar Babbler, many Greater Racket-tailed Drongos,

Black-crested Monarch and several flashy White-naped Flamebacks. Another nice feature of Kanha

were the many opportunities to watch diurnal owls including several cooperative Jungle Owlets,

Indian Scops-Owls and Spotted Owlets. By our last night we had all given up on Tigers, and

although disappointed, people had a fun last evening together that included four bottles of wine to

pep up the mood. Although our final morning was meant to be a leisurely one around the resort

grounds looking for some birds we decided to schedule a final whiz around the park just in case our

luck had changed. Because we had to leave the park at 9:30 to head to Nagpur for our flights I

realised this was much more in hope than expectation. As we headed off we enjoyed our final

sightings of deer and gaur, owls and sal forests. Then, at the 11th hour, and for 9 seconds only, a

Tigress emerged from the forest, strolled across the road and vanished into the forest on the other

side. The celebrations for those who saw it, however, were muted, as one of our vehicles arrived

just too late, and missed it. Such is the nature of this great cat. Luck is required, and mere seconds

can make a critical difference. Donʼt let anyone tell you Tigers are either easy, or guaranteed. As we

found out on this trip, it is still a cat of fortune, and seeing one can be completely fortuitous.

We then departed the park and made for Nagpur where we flew to Delhi where some folks

departed but most added one more night.

Dec 17: Delhi.

We made for the airport where we said our last goodbyes. All the talk of future trips to Assam,

Sichuan, Kenya, Ethiopia, Tanzania and Ghana suggest that the participants thoroughly enjoyed

this tour, and we hope to see them all back on another Tropical Birding adventure in the near future.


BIRD LIST

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger Darter Anhinga melanogaster Gray Heron Ardea cinerea Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Great Egret Ardea alba Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia Little Egret Egretta garzetta Indian Pond-‐Heron Ardeola grayii Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Striated Heron Butorides striatus Black-‐crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Black Bittern Ixobrychus flavicollis Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala Woolly-‐necked Stork Ciconia episcopus Black Stork Ciconia nigra Black-‐necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus Black-‐headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus Red-‐naped Ibis Pseudibis papillosa Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia Lesser Whistling-‐Duck Dendrocygna javanica Greylag Goose Anser anser Bar-‐headed Goose Anser indicus Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Cotton Pygmy-‐goose Nettapus coromandelianus Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope Gadwall Anas strepera Eurasian Teal Anas crecca Indian Spot-‐billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha Northern Pintail Anas acuta Gargany Anas querquedula Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata Red-‐crested Pochard Netta rufina Common Pochard Aythya ferina Ferruginous Pochard Aythya nyroca Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Common Merganser Mergus merganser


Osprey Pandion haliaetus Oriental Honey-‐buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus Black-‐shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus Black Kite Milvus migrans Pallas' Fish-‐Eagle Haliaeetus leucoryphus Gray-‐headed Fish-‐Eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus Lesser Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga humilis Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus White-‐rumped Vulture Gyps bengalensis Indian Vulture Gyps indicus Himalayan Griffon Gyps himalayensis Eurasian Griffon Gyps fulvus Cinereous Vulture Aegypius monachus Red-‐headed Vulture Sarcogyps calvus Crested Serpent-‐Eagle Spilornis cheela Western Marsh-‐Harrier Circus aeruginosus Northern Harrier Circus cyaneus Shikra Accipiter badius Besra Accipiter virgatus Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Long-‐legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus Indian (Lesser Spotted) Eagle Aquila (pomarina) hastasa Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca Bonelli's Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus Booted Eagle Hieraeetus pennatus Changeable (Crested) Hawk-‐Eagle Spizaetus c. cirrhatus Changeable Hawk-‐Eagle Spizaetus c. limnaeetus Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis Collared Falconet Microhierax caerulescens Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Red-‐necked Falcon Falco chiquera Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus Gray Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus Hill Partridge Arborophila torqueola (HO) Jungle Bush Quail Perdicula asiatica Red Spurfowl Galloperdix spadicea (HO) Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus Cheer Pheasant Catreus wallichi Koklass Pheasant Pucrasia macrolopha (HO) Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus Sarus Crane Grus antigone Common Crane Grus grus


Brown Crake Amaurornis akool White-‐breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Eurasian Coot Fulica atra Pheasant-‐tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus Bronze-‐winged Jacana Metopidius indicus Greater Painted-‐snipe Rostratula benghalensis Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii Black-‐winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta (Indian) Thick-‐knee Burhinus indicus Great Thick-‐knee Burhinus recurvirostris River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii Yellow-‐wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus Red-‐wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus White-‐tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Snowy Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Jack Snipe Lymnocryptes minimus Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura Black-‐tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus Common Redshank Tringa totanus Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii Ruff Philomachus pugnax Dunlin Calidris alpina Chestnut-‐bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus Great Black-‐headed Gull Larus ichthyaetus Black-‐headed Gull Larus ridibundus River Tern Sterna aurantia Gull-‐billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Black-‐bellied Tern Sterna acuticauda Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus Rock Dove Columba livia Indian Skimmer Rhynchops albicollis Rock Dove Streptopelia livia Oriental Turtle-‐Dove Streptopelia orientalis Eurasian Collared-‐Dove Streptopelia decaocto Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis


Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica Yellow-‐footed Pigeon Treron phoenicoptera Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria Rose-‐ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri Slaty-‐headed Parakeet Psittacula himalayana Plum-‐headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala Red-‐breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri Common Hawk-‐Cuckoo Cuculus varius Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis Indian Scops-‐Owl Otus bakkamoena Indian Eagle-‐Owl Bubo (bubo) bengalensis Dusky Eagle-‐Owl Bubo coromandus Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis Tawny Fish Owl Ketupa flavipes Barn Owl Tyto alba Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum Spotted Owlet Athene brama Brown Hawk-‐Owl Ninox scutulata Indian Jungle Nightjar Caprimulgus indicus Large-‐tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus House Swift Apus nipalensis White-‐rumped Needletail Zoonavena sylvatica Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis White-‐throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Crested Kingfisher Megaceryle lugubris Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Blue-‐bearded Bee-‐eater Nyctyornis athertoni Green Bee-‐eater Merops orientalis Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops Indian Gray Hornbill Ocyceros birostris Great Barbet Megalaima virens Brown-‐headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata Blue-‐throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus Brown-‐capped Woodpecker Dendrocopos nanus Gray-‐capped Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus Brown-‐fronted Woodpecker Dendrocopos auriceps


Fulvous-‐breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos macei Himalayan Woodpecker Dendrocopos himalayensis Rufous-‐bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus Rufous Woodpecker Celeus brachyurus Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha Streak-‐throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygeus Gray-‐faced Woodpecker Picus canus Himalayan Flameback Dinopium shorii Black-‐rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense Greater Flameback Crysocolaptes lucidus (HO) White-‐naped Woodpecker Chrysocolaptes festivus Greater Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus (HO) Greater Short-‐toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla Crested Lark Galerida cristata Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula Indian Bushlark Mirafra erythroptera Ashy-‐crowned Sparrowlark Eremopterix grisea Plain Martin Riparia paludicola Eurasian Crag-‐Martin Hirundo rupestris Dusky Crag-‐Martin Hirundo concolor Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Wire-‐tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii Red-‐rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica Streak-‐throated Swallow Hirundo fluvicola Nepal Martin Delichon nipalensis Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus White Wagtail Motacilla alba alba (Masked) Wagtail Motacilla (alba) personata (Amur) Wagtail Motacilla (alba) leucopsis White-‐browed Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensis Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola (Sykes’) Yellow Wagtail Motacilla (flava) beema (Gray-‐headed) Yellow Wagtail Motacilla (flava) thunbergi Gray Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Oriental Pipit Anthus rufulus Richard’s Pipit Anthus richardi Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris Long-‐billed Pipit Anthus similis Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis Olive-‐backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni Large Cuckoo-‐shrike Coracina macei Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus Long-‐tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus Bar-‐winged Flycatcher-‐shrike Hemipus picatus


Red-‐whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus Black-‐crested Bulbul Pyconitus (melanicterus) flaviventris White-‐eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis White-‐cheeked Bulbul Pycnonotus leucogenys Red-‐vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus Golden-‐fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii Rufous-‐breasted Accentor Prunella strophiata Black-‐throated Accentor Prunella atrogularis (LO) Altai Accentor Prunella himilayana Chestnut-‐bellied Rock-‐Thrush Monticola rufiventris Blue Rock-‐Thrush Monticola solitarius Blue Whistling-‐Thrush Myophonus caeruleus Orange-‐headed Thrush Zoothera citrina Long-‐billed Thrush Zoothera monticola White-‐collared Blackbird Turdus albocinctus (LO) Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus Dark-‐throated Thrush Turdus ruficollis Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Striated Prinia Prinia criniger Rufous-‐fronted Prinia Prinia buchanani Gray-‐breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis Graceful Prinia Prinia gracilis Jungle Prinia Prinia sylvatica Plain Prinia Prinia inornata Chestnut-‐headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata Grey-‐sided Bush Warbler Cettia brunnifrons Blyth's Reed-‐Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum Clamorous (Indian) Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus brunnescens Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Dusky Leaf-‐Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus Sulphur-‐bellied Warbler Phylloscopus griseolus Buff-‐barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher Ashy-‐throated Leaf-‐Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis Lemon-‐rumped Warbler Phylloscopus proregulus Brooks' Leaf-‐Warbler Phylloscopus subviridis Hume's Warbler Phylloscopus humei Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides Blyth's Leaf-‐Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides Chestnut-‐crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps Gray-‐hooded Warbler Seicercus xanthoschistos


Black-‐faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps Hume’s Whitethroat Sylvia althaea Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca Rufous-‐gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata Red-‐breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva Snowy-‐browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra (HO) Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni Ultramarine Flycatcher Ficedula superciliaris Slaty-‐blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolor Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae Rufous-‐bellied Niltava Niltava sundara Tickell's Blue-‐Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae Gray-‐headed Canary-‐flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis Siberian Rubythroat Lucsinia calliope White-‐tailed (Himalayan) Rubythroat Lucsinia pectoralis Bluethroat Luscinia svecica Himalayan Red-‐flanked Bluetail Tarsiger cyanurus rufilatus Oriental Magpie-‐Robin Copsychus saularis White-‐rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata Blue-‐capped Redstart Phoenicurus caeruleocephalus Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Blue-‐fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis White-‐capped Redstart Chaimarrornis leucocephalus Plumbeous Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosus Slaty-‐backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculatus Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maurus Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata Gray Bushchat Saxicola ferrea Indian Chat Cercomela fusca Variable Wheatear Oenanthe picata Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina Yellow-‐bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha White-‐throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis Black-‐naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea Asian Paradise-‐Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi White-‐throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis White-‐crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus Striated Laughingthrush Garrulax striatus Rufous-‐chinned Laughingthrush Garrulax rufogularis Streaked Laughingthrush Garrulax lineatus

‘Red-‐headed’ Chestnut-‐crowned Laughingthrush Garrulax erythrocephalus


Puff-‐throated Babbler Pellomeum ruficeps Rusty-‐cheeked Scimitar-‐babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenis Indian Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus horsfieldi Scaly-‐breasted Wren-‐Babbler Pnoepyga albiventer Black-‐chinned Babbler Stachyris pyrrhops Yellow-‐eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus Striated Babbler Turdoides earlei Large Gray Babbler Turdoides malcolmi Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus Red-‐billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea Brown-‐cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poliocephala Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis Black-‐chinned Yuhina Yuhina nigrimenta Rufous Sibia Heterophasia capistrata Black-‐throated Tit Aegithalos concinnus Black-‐crested Tit Periparus melanolophus Great Tit Parus major Green-‐backed Tit Parus monticolus Black-‐lored Tit Parus xanthogenys Yellow-‐browed Tit Sylviparus modestus Chestnut-‐bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea White-‐tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis Velvet-‐fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria Bar-‐tailed Treecreeper Certhia himalayana Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus Green-‐tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis Black-‐throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata Fire-‐breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectum Pale-‐billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrorhynchos Thick-‐billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum magnirostris Oriental White-‐eye Zosterops palpebrosus Black-‐hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus Rufous-‐tailed Shrike Lanius isabellinus Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus Bay-‐backed Shrike Lanius vittatus Long-‐tailed Shrike Lanius schach Southern Gray Shrike Lanius meridionalis Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus White-‐bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus Lesser Racket-‐tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer Hair-‐crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus


Greater Racket-‐tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius Black-‐headed Jay Garrulus lanceolatus Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda Gray Treepie Dendrocitta formosae House Crow Corvus splendens Indian Jungle Crow Corvus m. culminatus Large-‐billed Crow Corvus m. japonessis Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Asian Pied Starling Gracupica contra Brahminy Starling Temenuchus pagodarum Rosy Starling Pastor roseus European Starling Sturnus vulgaris House Sparrow Passer domesticus Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis Russet Sparrow Passer rutilans Chestnut-‐shouldered Petronia Petronia xanthocollis Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus Bengal Weaver Ploceus benghalensis Red Avadavat Amandava amandava Indian Silverbill Lonchura argenteus Nutmeg Mannikin Lonchura punctulata Black-‐headed Munia Lonchura malacca Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus Yellow-‐breasted Greenfinch Carduelis spinoides Collared Grosbeak Mycerobas affinis Crested Bunting Melophus lathami Rock Bunting Emberiza cia stracheyi House Bunting Emberiza striolata Red-‐headed Bunting Emberiza bruniceps Black-‐headed Bunting Emberiza melanocephala

HO = Heard only NL = Not seen by guide


MAMMAL LIST Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta Hanuman Langur Semnopithecus entellus Sambar Deer Cervus unicolor – common at Kanha NP. Spotted Deer / Chital Axis axis – common at Kanha NP. Swamp Deer Cervus duvaucelii – this rare and declining deer was seen regularly at Kanha NP. Indian Muntjac Muntiacus muntjak – a few at Corbett NP and others at Kanha NP. Nilgai Boselaphus tragocamelus Wild Boar Sus scofra Gaur Bos gaurus – seen on several occasions at Kanha NP. Indian Hare Lepus nigricollis Asian Elephant Elephas maximus – a big herd seen near the lodge at Corbett NP. Asian Wild Dog (Dhole) Cuon alpinus – an inredible encounter with a pack of these very scarce predators. We first saw them as they were literally ripping a small Sambar calf limb from limb. Within minutes they had dismemebered and devoured it and we were able to re-encounter them as they came to the road and played for a while and then trotted off into the bushes, a truly exhillarating experience. Golden Jackal Canis aureus Common Palm Civet Paradoxurus hermaphrodites Jungle Cat Felis chaus – a few encounters with this cat in Kanha NP. Bengal Tiger Panthera tigris – After three days of trying we connected with one on our final game drive in Kanha. Unfortunately one of the vans arrived late and it had slunk off into the brush. Leopard Panthera pardus – A large male crossed the road in front of our bus in the Himalayan foothills one evening. A surprise indeed. Ganges River Dolphin Platanista gangética – they were difficult this year, surfacing only a couple of times and very briefly. Indian Grey Mongoose Herpestes edwardsii Three-striped Palm Squirrel Fanambulus palmarum Indian Pocupine Hystrix indica – one running around the rooms at Corbett was followed by those interested. Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus

REPTILE LIST Gharial Garialis gangeticus Mugger Crocodile Crocodylus palustris Indian Flap-shelled Turtle Lissimus punctata Ganges Soft-shelled Turtle Aspideretes gangeticus Bengal Monitor Varanus bengalensis

Documents

TR IndiaSD Dec2010 - Tropical Birding · Northern!India:!Himalayas,!Bharatpur,!and!the!Taj!Mahal! Nov28–Dec17,2010! INTRODUCTION This trip continues to be one of our very best