8/11/2019 Toyota Front Axle Rebuild

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Removing The Free Wheel Hub: To do this, remove the six 10mm bolts to the Free Wheel Hub Cover (hub cover) {1} and remove itfrom the Free Wheel Hub Body (hub body) {2}. Now remove the six 12mm nuts, washers, and ConeWashers {3}, and to the hub body. There's also a Snapring {22} that goes around the end of theaxle that is inside the hub body that needs to be removed.

For the cone washers, this is the best way that I found to remove them if they don't slideright off.

1. Tap the hub body with a mallet to break it free from the Hub {18}.2. Use a flathead screwdriver and slip the end of it into the slot of the cone washer facing the

bolt.3. Light tap on the handle of the screwdriver. You can just use the palm of your hand to do

this.4. Slide the cone washer off.

Now you can remove the hub body.

Tearing Down The Hub Cover: There's not much to this. It's just a matter of turning the Clutch {4} about a 1/4 turn clockwise until itstops, push down some, and then turn a little more. The Spring {5} and clutch will now be free.There is no need to remove the Pawl {6} and Spring {7} from the clutch. Next is removingthe Snapring {8} that holds the hub cover and the Control Handle {9} together. You want to pullthese apart slowly and watch for the Steel Ball {10} andSpring {11}. They should be at the samepoint as the arrow on the control handle. Remove the Seal {12} from the control handle.

Tearing Down The Hub Body: Remove the large Snapring {13} on the back of the hub body that holds the inner hub assembly.

Remove the inner hub assembly and remove the Snapring {14} from the Inner Hub {15}.The Spacer {16}, and Free Wheel Hub Ring {17} can now be removed.

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Exploded Veiw of Free Wheel Hub 

Inspecting The Hub Body And Hub Cover: Thoroughly clean and dry all parts, and look for any visible damage or wear. Check that all the partsthat move against each other (clutch in the hub body ) move smoothly. Using a micrometer measurethe clearance between the inner hub and the free wheel hub. Inside distance of the free wheel hubminus the outside distance of the inner hub = clearance (0.3 mm or 0.012 in).  

Reassemble both the hub cover and the hub body assemblies in the reverse order applying greaseto all moving surfaces. With the hub cover in the free poison, temporarily install it to the hub bodyand check that the inner hub turns freely.

THE HUB (Part 1):  Removing The Hub: 

On the end of the Spindle {19} (also see Exploded View OfKnuckle) just inside the hub are two Spindle Nuts {20} with a LockWasher {21} between them. In order to remove the first nut youneed to clean some of the grease out of the way and find thetab(s) from the lock washer that fold over the slide of the nut. Nextuse a flathead screwdriver and place the end it so that it will gobetween the tab and the nut when you tap it with the mullet. Work

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the tab up so it's straight up and then remove the nut. Then remove the lock washer and the othernut.

Unbolt the Caliper {23} and move and tie it up out of the way. You may need to remove the brakeline clip in order to move it without bending up the hard brake line. The hub and rotor assembly cannow be removed. Pull it forward some and then push it back to remove the Thrust Washer{24} and Outer Bearing {25}. This can all be set to the side until your ready to do the bearings.

NOTE:I cut a slot in the bracket that holds the brake line in place so that the caliper can be fullyremoved from the Dust Cover {27} and placed out of the way.  

If replacing the rotors then see the Vented Rotors article to see how to remove them from the hub.

Exploded View of Hub

THE KNUCKLE:

Removing The Knuckle: Remove the 8 bolts that hold the Dust Seal {26}, Dust Cover {27}, and Spindle {19} to the Knuckle{28}. Remove the dust seal and dust cover. To remove the spindle, use a mallet to tap the end of itdown and releasing it from the knuckle. Spin the axle shaft assembly so that the flat parts ofthe Outer Shaft {29} are at the top and bottom and pull the axle shaft assembly out.

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Next remove the Oil Seal Retainer {30} on the back of the knuckle. There's also an Oil Seal Set{31} (felt dust seal, steel ring, and rubber wipers) there too that can just hang on the axle.

Remove the tie rod and/or drag link from the Steering Arm {32}.Loosen the nuts to the Bearing Cap {34} and remove the nuts andwashers to the steering arm. There are also Cone Washers{33} for the steering arm that need to be removed. Similar to

doing the ones on the hub body, if needed, use a smallscrewdriver and tap it into the break in the cone washer with amallet. Make sure to knock the steering arm loose first so that thebreak in the cone washers is not tight or fully closed.

 After removing the steering arm and Shim(s) {35}, remove theknuckle by siding the top of it out and over the end of the axle

housing. Remove theKnuckle (Trunion) Bearings {36} (one on top of the axle housing, one insidethe knuckle) and the bearing cap and shim(s). Thoroughly clean and dry the end of the axle housingand knuckle of old grease.

NOTE: Mark or tag the shims for their location for reassembling. If reusing the knuckle bearingsthen do the same with them too. Never use new bearings with old races.  

Remove and replace the Axle Seal {37}. Marlin makes a great heavy duty seal that you can't gowrong with. Even if your seals are good it would be worth it to replace them with Marlin's HD seals.Make sure to coat the ID of the seal with a little grease before installing.

Thoroughly clean, dry, and inspect the knuckle bearings fordamage and wear. Replace as needed. If replacing the bearingyou'll need to remove theBearing Races {38}, using a punchthrough the opposite side of the race(top to bottom or bottom totop) on the axle housing. Towards the front and the back of therace is a notch in the seat for the punch to drive the race out.Make sure to not hit down on just one side of the race. Switchback and forth between the two sides so that it will come outevenly and doesn't bind up. Carefully drive in new races with arace driver or something flat that will cover the whole race without

damaging it. Brass works well.

PACKING BEARINGS: 

Pack the bearings by placing a glob of grease in your (clean) hand and hold the bearing with thewider side of it down. Keep dipping the bearing into the grease until the grease flows out the otherside. Spin the bearing and start dipping again. Continue this until you've completely gone all theway around the bearing. I recommend buying a bearing packer, they're quicker and cleaner to use.Put a little smear of grease on the outside of the bearing and insert it into the race.

A few good rules to follow: 1. Use clean solvent and brushes and dry thoroughly with clean air.2. Never spin-dry bearings; this causes scratching of the polished

surface and may result in premature failure.

3. Do not pack the bearing unless it is perfectly dry.4. Good practice calls for a thorough inspection after cleaning andbefore reinstallation. Bearings are often hammered or pulled withoutrespect for such precision made assemblies. Re-assembly of adamaged bearing results in short component life.

5. Pack the bearing immediately following cleaning, drying andinspection.

6. Do not use an excessive amount of grease - be sure it is worked intoevery bearing space, but do not fill the hub with grease.

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7. Keep bearings clean, work on a clean bench and do not handlebearings with dirty or moist hands.

8. When re-assembling check the bearing for proper seating.9. Check adjustments carefully. Most vehicle manufacturers nominate

a torsion wrench setting for bearing assemblies. Use a torquewrench and do not exceed the manufacturer's recommendation.

10. Check brake shoe clearance, the dragging tip of a brake shoe or padcan create very high wheel temperatures in a short run.

11. Keep grease containers completely covered when not in use toavoid contamination. (Replace the lid immediately sufficient greasehas been removed from the container).

12. Do not mix different types of grease. Under no circumstances mustlithium based multi-purpose grease be mixed with soda base wheelbearing grease or an adverse chemical reaction will occur.

13. Carefully avoid contact of the packed bearing with dirt, dust, water ordirty hands.

14. Use the correct grade of grease for the job. Do not at any time usechassis grease. If the vehicle is used in very arduous service orunder unusual conditions of load and speed, check with themanufacturer for correct grease recommendation.

Check here for information on Wheel Bearing Failure. 

Reassembling The Knuckle: If replacing the oil seal set from the back of the knuckle then this would be a good time to be so.

Install the bearing cap and shim(s) on the bottom of the knuckle and pack the knuckle bearings withgrease and insert one in the top of the axle housing and one inside the knuckle on the bearing cap.With clean hands fill the sides inside of axle housing (making sure not to get it past the seal)  andthe knuckle. This will make it easier for packing them later. Put the bottom of the knuckle under theaxle housing so that the lower bearing will go into the race as you slide the upper half of the knuckleup over the top of the axle housing. Install the steering arm with some anti-siege on the conewashers. Torque down the bearing cap and steering arm to 71 ft-lbs. Some hy-steer setups mentionto torque the steering arm down to about 80 ft-lbs, so check with what the specs on them if youhave one. With a pull scale, check the preload. This should be 7-13 lbs.

Bolt the oil seal set and oil retainer to the back of the knuckle. Make sure that the rubber wiper andthe steel ring stay in place as you bolt on the felt dust seal and the oil retainer. I find it easier towork from the bottom up.

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Exploded View of Knuckle 

AXLE SHAFT ASSEMBLY:

Inspecting The Axle Shaft Assembly: Place the inner shaft horizontally in a vise and using a brass bar punch against the Inner Race {41},drive the outer shaft off the inner shaft.

Tilt the inner race and Cage {42} to remove the Bearing Balls {43}one at a time. There are two large openings on the cage, if youstart with one of these and end on the other you can leave thelast two bearing balls in the inner race and cage assembly andremove them after the assembly has been removed. The twolarge openings in the cage need to be empty cuz you'll need to fit

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way down on the side of the nuts. Next install the hub body, putting anti-seize on the cone washers,and torque to 18 ft-lbs. Install the hub cover being carefully not to over torque the bolts, they breakeasy. They're usually pretty easy to get back out if broken, but it's sometime the last bolt thatbreaks. I upgraded mine to some grade 5 allen head bolts that I had. Torque to about 10 ft-lbs.

Install the caliper and torque down to 65 ft-lbs.Install the tie rod and drag link (if not done yet) and torque down to 67 ft-lbs.

Install tires, put it back on the ground and go for a cruise.