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We are very proud to introduce the second issue of the English Version of Toilettage Magazine. With a full dossier on the Bichon Frisé and its groomings. We hope you'll enjoy it !
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www.toilettagemagazine.com JANUARY 2015
TOILETTAGE MAGAZINE ENGLISH VERSION
FULL GUIDE ON
BICHON FRISE
ASIAN STYLE
By Riza Wisnom
Meet the Canadian
Grooming School
« L’art au Poil »
Safe Creative
Grooming – part 1
SPECIAL BREED: ALL
ABOUT THE BICHON
FRISE
2
FRENCH INTERNATIONAL GROOMING CONVENTION 2015 September 12th & 13th
Parc des expositions of Saint Lô (50)
WORLD PREMIERE
Asian Fusion World Challenge September 13th
Judged by the creator of the Asian Fusion Style,
Pamela Carmichael (UK)
Also register for our Asian Fusion Style
Workshop on 12th September 2015 with
Pamela Carmichael
Save some money with our “Asian Fusion Pass” at
only 170€/pass including participation to the workshop,
to the competition and access to trade fair
To register for the competition, the workshop or both, please contact us
Sommaire
Page 4 … Meet groomers worlwide
Page 6 … “L’art au poil”, grooming school in Canada
Page 13 … Famous dogs in history
Page 14 … GROOMING CATS VS. DOGS,
By Katrina Henrie
Page 16 … All about the Bichon Frisé
Page 20 … Practical Guide: Grooming a Bichon Frise
Page 26 … Bach Flowers
By Françoise Janssens
Page 27 … For a Safe Creative Grooming – 1st Part
Page 29 … Your Before/Afters
Thank you all for your help and support!!!
Dear readers,
First of all, I wish you all a happy new
year 2015, may it be prosperous for
everyone, filled with love and
happiness. May we all keep working
together in a joyful atmosphere, share
our experiences and knowledge with
benevolence.
I am very pleased to introduce this
second issue of our Toilettage
Magazine – English Version.
Enjoy!
Nathalie Ariey-Jouglard
Toilettage Magazine – English Version
is a publication of the Association for
the Promotion of Grooming Art.
To contact the manager of the
magazine, contact Nathalie at
[email protected], Please
visit www.toilettagemagazine.com or
contact the Association for the
Promotion of Grooming Art on 0033
(0)675515014.
We are always looking for contributors
and grooming related interesting
subjects. If you wish to participate and
enrich our Toilettage Magazine, please
do not hesitate to send your pictures,
articles and ideas to
[email protected] or by
mail to Toilettage Magazine, 84 rue des
Forges, Pont d’Hyenville, 50660 Orval,
France
To learn more about the Charity, visit
our website : WWW.ASSOCIATIONDUTOILETTAGE.COM
Photo credit for the cover picture EM Foto, find EM Foto on www.emfoto.be. Thank you for this wonderful cover.
Page 22 … Bichon Frisé – Asian Styla
By Riza Wisnom
Meet groomers Worldwide!!! By Nathalie Ariey-Jouglard
This month, we meet
Hayley Woodham, owner of
Poodles and Pompadours,
the UK's first vintage
grooming parlor and
boutique. She’s been
running her wonderful
boutique since 2012. She
makes and sell pet apparel
and accessories inspired by
the 1950's and pinup
culture. Poodles and Pompadour is a one-stop shop for rockin'
rovers! They also sell a selection of natural grooming products
and accessories. Hayley has since expanded her boutique business to include pet sitting and full
grooming services.
www.poodlesandpompadours.com
She completed her City & Guilds grooming training in early 2014 with
Distinction and set about converting her garden building into a
purpose built grooming parlor with vintage decor. She opened her
grooming parlor in the summer of 2014 and has been steadily
growing her business. She specializes in small breeds of dogs but she
also grooms cats and even rabbits! She offers grooming additional
services such as creative coloring,
feather extensions, pawdicures and
spa services. She prides herself in using
all natural, organic and cruelty free
products where possible.
“I love what I do
and I'm very
proud to be able
to say that we are a multi-award winning
business. I was even invited to a special
reception at 10 Downing Street to
represent small businesses in the UK in
December 2014.”
4 If you wish us to introduce your salon, do not hesitate to contact us at [email protected]
« L’art au poil », grooming school in Canada
Yanick and Marie opened this modern and innovative grooming school together.
Hello Marie, what is your background?
I started training in 1994 in Montreal. As soon as I went out of school, I worked as an independent groomer in a vet clinic for several years and then had a break to explore new horizons. It was the time of the low speed Internet. Thanks to the « chat » we were able to exchange a lot of information, hint and tips with fellow American groomers. Cyber communication offered me a brand new universe. In 1996, communication between groomer was quite uncommon, I created the very first French groomer forum, called « BBS Francophone pour toiletteurs professionnels » later renamed : «Association des toiletteurs professionnels francophones». This forum was hosted by the American « Groomer’s BBS ». I was totally involved in this forum so a
maximum of information would be made available to a maximum of groomers and gathering as many professional as possible. The goal being to participate together in the improvement of our industry standards. I met wonderful people through this forum that I moderated until 2008 with my friend Linda Jomphe, who was an invaluable support. We quickly gathered 350 francophone members from Canada, France and Belgium. In 2006 I was asked to be adviser for the opening of a wildlife center that offered grooming service. This has rekindled the
Highlight on …
passion that once animated me. Previously I was working alone in my little room. This time, I had to interact with other groomers who had multiple approaches. I started to improve my skills through intensive courses in the United States with specialists and international judges: Sue Zecco, Jay Scruggs, Vera Da Sylva, Chris Pawlosky Monique Van Van, Denis
Lorrain, ISCC, etc. I deepened zoo-cosmetology for 2 years and then provide training in combination with IV San Bernard USA / Canada and Italy. From 2007, I gave lectures in Quebec on the techniques of "carding", moulting reduction programs, methods of drying, dog preparation, handling scissors, the different techniques of grooms, the groom of specialized breeds, zoocosmetology, ergonomics of the work environment, save-time tips, reading the zoo-cosmetic ingredients, etc. Parallel to the speaker business, I was running professionals to bring them to a whole new level in private and semi-private. As thanks for my many years of service, I was fortunate to be invited to the institute IV San Bernard in Italy to follow two weeks of advanced learning in therapy. I learned ozone therapy, a way of the future for therapeutic grooming. In Quebec I sold specialized equipment and met several professionals in their grooming salons. I was sensitive to the lack of resources of some groomers strongly accentuated by their isolation. Groomers reported having received incomplete training, blamed a lack of knowledge, often working with an intrusive and directive approach which had the effect of breaking the trust relationship with the animal. Groomers needed concrete solutions to dogs that exhibited behaviors associated with fear, anxiety, aggression, learned helplessness or nervousness. At the sight of reactive dogs and groomer’s hardened impotence and lack of resources I had at heart the mission of finding solutions to issues concerning grooming at all levels:
how to improve work environment
modernization of tools, equipment and working environment
finding a behavioural approach allowing to reduce responsiveness of dogs and to improve the lives of the groomer
how to reduce environmental stress
professional development to provide remunerative specialized additional services
I started looking for a behavior specialist who works in positive reinforcement and who would invest time with me to "brainstorm" on this project to make it more humane grooming.
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Since chance does not exist, so I approached a Quebec behaviorist recognized among the first in Quebec to work in positive reinforcement, Yanick Dion, referred to me by one of my students. He agreed to join me in this project to find solutions to many problems encountered in grooming. When did you open your school?
Along this path, I never intended to open a school. That's life which inspired me to structure my journey, my learning and to pass it on. I follow my passions, knowledge and love of life are my energy. I let myself be shaped by the lessons that life allows me to understand on the path that opens to me everyday. I am in the service of the human being, I am for the overall well-being.
From this beautiful journey was born the school « L’art au poil » which main goals are the animal well-being and the groomer well-being and with a human, positive and non-directive approach, with people as well as with animals, a modern, spiritual and holistic approach. Our goal is to provide our students with a well-filled tool box so they can make informed and human choices in their professional acts and actions with animals regardless of the situation encountered. The school has a strict code of ethics which every graduate student has to get inspired with. My learning then turned to the
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study of animal behavior, the use of positive reinforcement, the training using operant conditioning, applied behavior analysis, the training of various animal species (crows, parrots, dogs , cats, pigs, chickens, ducks, alpacas, sheep, and soon wild animals in a zoo in England), the clicker training, the laws of learning, behavioral science, the training "without force or coercion "including the principle of giving the animal the" power of choice ", reading the canine and feline language, systematic desensitization, canine and feline ethology, etc. I studied and worked alongside beautiful and great people who are gifted to me, educated and conscientious. These have influenced my career, my approach: Dr. Susan Friedman, Steve Martin, Chris Jerkins, Chirag Patel, Michelle Pouliot, Ken Ramirez, Kathy Sdao, the late Dr. Sophia Yin, Bob Bailey, Joel Dehasse, Karen Pryor, ... and of course my friend behaviorist Jean Lessard with whom we have partnered to found me and Yanick, the “Hens Academy” in 2012.
So many apprenticeships were woven into my brain and my consciousness since. Today I have the pleasure to train my Alpacas without force or coercion with positive reinforcement. These animals, which are curious but of a reserved and fearful kind, surpass my expectations in terms of learning. To learn a little bit more about my work with alpacas, here's a demonstration video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFSeIuQoYaI&list=UUFZyU_kujH2BRGn-MSJ7x8w
Could you introduce your school ?
In 2010, I and Yanick Dion have become working partners and also life partners. We transferred my school in the countryside and since then we provide the training of stylist groomer artisan together, Yanick dealing primarily with behavior training and I mainly with grooming (but also the behavior). For over 7 years, we have built an innovative grooming model, completely redesigned, non-traditional, to respect both the individual physical and psychological limits of each animal while improving the well-being of the groomer.
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Photo taken by Steve Martin (NEI)
Our approach more and more human with students has been greatly influenced by my neuro-linguistics course and our experience at Natural Encounters in Florida where we trained crows and parrots with the very best coaches in the world (coaches Animal Kingdom at Walt Disney) under the supervision of Steeve Martin, an internationally renowned zoological consultant and Dr. Susan Friedman of the University of Utah of which I am a graduate of the program in behavioral science; LLA for professionals. At Natural Encounters, I was completely dazzled with joy and happiness to the spectacular view of forty macaw parrots that were released outside all at once at large and came back with a single beep. To achieve this prowess with parrots in freedom it is essential to establish a very strong relationship of trust. To achieve this, the manager must interact with a 100% respectful approach based on motivation rather than intimidation, leaving a free choice to the animal. Bob Bailey, another of our teachers was the first director of the training in the "Us
Navy" and is one of the oldest most recognized coaches in the USA. He met with the legendary BF Skinner. He trained dolphins in open water in the sea, sending them remotely detect bombs and they were coming back to the recall.
These mentors have given us unheard knowledge in an environment where apprentices always feel safe to learn, to experiment, to make mistakes, to try again. It is the same for animals we encounter. They need to feel safe to learn to be approached, touch and manipulate. They need to feel they can experiment and act on their own environment. In addition, they need a powerful motivator to pass away their past traumatic experiences, their fears and their fears of being manipulated by a stranger. “L’art au poil” school wants to be a safe haven for learning groomer business and also groomer behaviorist. We offer a comfortable environment that meets all modes of learning.
What are the different trainings you provide?
I strongly encourage all groomers to follow our certified training in zoo-cosmetology to know and understand the biology of hair and skin, the life cycle of the hair, functions of the different hairs, the various types of coats, the factors that favor hair growth, all that hides behind moulting, the factors that affect the loss of hair, factors that interact with the quality of the coat, alopecia and shaving, skin needs for the different types of coats, parasitology, therapeutic care, the composition of cosmetic products for animals, myths surrounding care for the animals, creating our own
organic shampoos and rinses 100% natural, the small guide of responsible groomer, etc. All this knowledge allows to offer a professional service in addition to educating customers about the real needs of the animal skin.
Associated with this essential training in zoo-cosmetology I suggest to follow our theoretical and practical certifying training TCAP (behavioral grooming). You talk about behavioral approach, could you explain what it means?
We propose a model with an approach based on the science of behavior for professional groomers, veterinary field and animal shelters workers.
The TCAP model in grooming has been carefully created from scientific laws of learning, in-depth understanding of the canine language micro-signals, a complete reorganization of the work environment and of the applied behavior analysis
(ABA).
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By respecting the physical and mental limits of individual animals and avoiding to go beyond its tolerance level, we can significantly lower his stress level. We have completely redesigned the environment to minimize stress for animals and professionals. We aim to develop a trusting relationship with each animal in order to experience a collaborative experience, or even a communion between the animal and the human. Desired behaviors are reinforced and we teach alternative behaviors to replace unwanted behavior. We prefer minimally intrusive and most positive interventions. TCAP was born of a love, friendship and partner relationship in daily life; in short, everything was created by the combination of two people who share a passion and who look in the same direction, wishing the welfare of all living beings. At “l’art au poil”, since early 2014 we have established a rigorous certification called TCAP (behavioral grooming) allowing all professional groomers to specialize with our innovative, flexible grooming model, based on behavioral science and applied behavior analysis. This certification assures customers that the business he uses gets a well filled toolbox regarding behavioral language, working in an environment where stress reduction is a priority, with desensitization, still remaining below the animal's tolerance level, never bringing the animal in a high stress, using animal's motivation to initiate each manipulation, never using in any case the verbal or physical intimidation or even punishment, never using the bid or physical coercion and that continues its ongoing training annually to maintain in the new research level of behavior. Behaviorists of the country know they can rely on the certified students in TCAP by “l’art au poil” to groom their client’s dogs under the rules of art.
Tell us a bit more about your « Hens Academy »?
Hens Academy was born from the cooperation between Yanick Dion, Jean Lessard and myself. We offer trainers, groomers and all professionals in the animal field, workshops in operating training and conditioning. And as a learning animal, we work with chickens to leave the established trails in order to develop mechanical training skills, observation skills, timing and speed.
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Hense Academy 1 aims to make known operant
conditioning and use of the clicker in training. We see the laws of learning, training strategies; capture, lures, shaping; synchronism and reinforcing ratios; achieving goals; and how to overcome difficulties. It explores the shapes and / or color discrimination by our hens and the implementation of a behavior signal.
Hens Academy 2 includes 2 days of workshops with more advanced training. We explore the establishment of target behaviors and work plans; it deepens the color-shapes discrimination and performs a target behavior overthrow by shaping ("shaping reversal stimulus"). Then, still using colors, we teach our birds to peck only on request ("stimulus control") certain color depending on a given signal. This is the "cueing". A "must" for all professionals in the animal environment who wish to master the concepts of behavior. For more information about Academy Hens: https://www.facebook.com/poulesacademie What are the upcoming training? We have a full agenda for 2015.
25-26-27 March 2015: Theory on behavioral grooming and behavioral approach in veterinary clinic
(TCAP dogs) addressed to groomers, veterinarian staff and people working with animals such as board or shelter (for more info, http : //www.artaupoil.com/formation-disp.asp i = 1)
30-31 March 2015 and 1-2-4 April 2015: Behavioral grooming Certification and applied behavioral
approach (TCAP practice) (to register: http://www.artaupoil.com/formation-disp.asp?i=4)
April 13, 2015: Beginning of the spring full training session artisan stylist groomer to “l’art au poil”
22-23-24 April 2015: Certified training in zoo-cosmetology “L’art au Poil” (for more info:
http://www.artaupoil.com/formation-disp.asp?i=14)
18-19-20 May 2015: Training practices at “L’art au Poil” school with Karine Delpy, Champion of France
and International Chic and cute grooming (to register: http://www.artaupoil.com/formation-disp. asp? i = 12)
25-26-27 May 2015: Practical Training in the hair art with Karine Delpy, International and France
Champion (to register: http://www.artaupoil.com/formation-disp.asp?i = 13) 12-13-14 June 2015: Hens Academy in Rimouski (to keep updated about Hens training academy: https://www.facebook.com/poulesacademie) Summer Session 2015: Beginning of the summer session of 2015 fully trained artisan stylist groomer
at “L’art au Poil” school Autumn Session 2015: Start of the 2015 autumn session of fully trained artisan stylist groomer at “L’art au Poil” school September 2015: we were invited at the French International Grooming Convention to give one of our certified training. December 2015: A WELL DESERVED REST
Yanick et Marie
Our website: www.artaupoil.com
Our details:
École l’art au poil, 1009 Grand Rang St-François, St-Pie (Québec), Canada, (450) 772-6771
Photos: All right reserved to L’art au poil 2014
12
FAMOUS DOGS IN HISTORY Fortuné
Fortuné was the dog of Joséphine de Beauharnais, Napoleon's first wife. When
Napoleon married Josephine, she is already the proud master of this small so called
Carlin who will never accept this new man in her life. Indeed, about him, Napoleon
declared:
"You see that gentleman; this is my rival. He was in possession of the bed of Madame
when I married. I wanted to get it out: unnecessary pretension; she told me that I had
to resign to sleep elsewhere or consent to sharing. This annoyed me enough, but it
was take it or leave it. I resigned myself. The favorite was less accommodating than
me. I bear evidence to this leg. »
Fortuné appears in the history of France for
the first time in 1794, two years before the
marriage. At that time, Josephine is trapped in
the prison of the Carmelites after the
execution of her husband, Alexandre de
Beauharnais. His little pug then serves as a
factor to communicate discreetly with the exterior.
Fortuné is described as a dog with bad character either with humans or
other dogs and would not tolerate anybody except Josephine, his children
and one of his lovers. It will cost him his life elsewhere since during the
Italian campaign in the gardens of the castle of Mombello near Milan, he
is killed by the dog's chef with whom he did not get along. It was stuffed
and kept in the castle of Navarre but lost in the destruction of the building
between 1834 and 1836.
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13
GROOMING CATS VS. DOGS,
By Katrina Henrie
I hear from so many groomers, especially on social networks,
that they refuse to groom cats. Now I tend to agree that with
the risk of injury to the groomer and the cats in question, that
it should be left to those with proper training and mindset to
work with cats. But I'd like to address why it's so different to
work with felines verses canines in the professional setting, just
in a general way.
First of all, cats are not small dogs. You might laugh because that is so obvious, but that is exactly how cats have been treated for many years by professionals both in the grooming industry and in veterinary medicine. Basic feline psychology and physiology has only recently been deemed important enough to study, and we're only scratching the surface so far. The reasons for a cat’s reactivity in the grooming situation are many and varied. Felines react in very different ways compared to canines and even to other felines, depending on background, age, health, and many other factors. Which all together can make cats unpredictable to work with, especially if the cat’s health and background is unknown. Once you become more familiar with normal feline behaviors, you as a groomer will be more comfortable grooming them. When the groomer is relaxed, the cat clients will generally relax as well making grooming a more pleasant experience. Some of a cat’s reactive behavior stems from the fact that the level of domesticity is much less than you would find with dogs, which can be seen in the ease by which cats revert to a feral state. Cats are also prey items to many other species, so a cat can go into "fight or flight" mode very easily. With that in
14
mind the overall grooming environment is very important. Grooming in more isolation, screening the cat client from noise and activity, and being prepared for every eventuality makes life more pleasant for all involved.
Beyond the psychological differences, the physical differences between canine and feline clients will also affect how the grooming process works. The way they can move to avoid what you are doing
and the way that you can move their limbs will be different. The cat’s spine is much suppler and joints have a greater and different range of motion than does a dogs. For instance, you can't hold a dogs paws up behind its head while you shave its chest. With a cat, you can. That level of flexibility also works to the cat’s advantage however. A cat’s range of motion and supple nature, makes it much more difficult for the groomer to maneuver and restrain them if the cat isn't willing. There is also as much difference in the skin cell density and PH level, between canines and felines, as there is between human and canine. Meaning if the cats skin is only eight to ten layers thick, compared to the twenty to twenty five layers of human skin, not using the correct products, tools and grooming techniques can be very harmful to the cat. Things can go badly very quickly, so study and training are imperative. There are also the risks to the groomer to consider. Groomers who mainly work with dogs are bitten and scratched just as often as a cat groomer would be. When a dog bites there is more extensive tissue damage and bruising, with a lower risk of infection. With a cat bite, the problem comes from the shape of the teeth, they leave a deep needle like puncture and bacteria from the cat’s mouth can become trapped and healed over. The risk of infection is higher coupled with the groomers sensitivity to the allergens makes it necessary to receive medical attention, even if the bite is minimal.
So how different is it to groom cats? It's completely different, but very rewarding in its own way. To start, your techniques, equipment, and products will be different. More importantly, having a true affection for felines and understanding their unique makeup, will make or break you as a feline groomer. In future articles I hope to revisit all of these topics more in depth and interview successful groomers who choose to be feline exclusive. Katrina Henrie MCPCG, CFMG, CFCG Owner of The Urban Pet, Layton UT
Owner of L'mew feline exclusive day spa & suites, Ogden UT
15
Breed Special File
THE BICHON FRISÉ
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THE BICHON FRISÉ Its history The history of the Bichon Frise
goes back to the Italian
Renaissance (XV - XVI
centuries), where he was born
of a cross between a Maltese
and other small breeds
including the poodle. During
this period, it is introduced in
the Canary Islands which
earned him, for a long time, the
nickname of "Tenerife".
The Bichon Frise arrives in
France in the sixteenth century
and becomes favorite
companion of Francois 1st. It
was under the reign of Henry III
(1574-1589) that the race is
experiencing unprecedented
popularity in the country,
favorite breed of the King of
France. At the same time, it expands in Belgium, during the occupation of Flanders by spanishes. In the
two centuries that followed, he was the darling of world leaders and accompanies the ladies and lords
of the kingdom throughout the country. Thus, Madame de Pompadour has several. It becomes so
popular that the famous painters such as Fragonard, do it appear in their works. In the nineteenth
century, its popularity travels to Spain and finds success with the nobility. It becomes fashionable in
France in the second half of the nineteenth century, during the reign of Napoleon III and remains the
darling of the aristocracy until the early twentieth century before becoming popular with everyone. It
then spreads throughout the country, accompanying organ players on the street or the disabled. But
the First World War put a stop to this popularity and kennels disappear almost completely between
the wars.
This is why, in 1920, a Belgian breeder decides to do everything possible to save the breed that will be
recognized by France 13 years later. Most subjects die during the second war again but resurgent in
the middle of the twentieth century. In 1960, the FCI confers it the Belgian and French origins and the
breed is experiencing a real revival since the 1970s. The Bichon Frise Club is created in the US in 1964
and the breed is recognized by the American Kennel Club 1973.
GROOMING BY KARINE DELPY – SALON “CHIC ET MIGNON” HAUTE GARONNE-FRANCE
Breed Special File
17
FCI-Standard N° 215 summary Le Bichon frisé est un chien du groupe 9, chiens d’agrément et de compagnie.
GENERAL APPEARANCE : Merry and playful
little dog, with a lively gait, medium length
muzzle, long very loose corkscrew-curled hair,
very like the coat of the Mongolian goat. Head
carriage is proud and high, the eyes dark, lively
and expressive.
HEAD: In harmony with the body.
NECK: Reach of neck is fairly long, carried high
and proudly. Round and fine near the skull,
broadening gradually to merge smoothly into
the shoulders. Its length is approximately a
third of the length of the body (proportion of
11 cm to 33 cm for a dog of 27 cm high), the
points of the shoulder blades against the
withers taken as basis.
BODY:
Loin: Broad and well-muscled, slightly arched.
Croup: Slightly rounded.
Chest: Well developed; the sternum is
pronounced; the false ribs rounded and do not
end abruptly, the chest having horizontally a
rather great depth.
Flanks: The flanks are well tucked up at the
belly; the skin is fine and not loose, giving quite
a whippety appearance.
TAIL: The tail is set a little more below the back
line than in the Poodle. Normally the tail is
carried raised and gracefully curved in line with
the spine, without being rolled up; it is not
docked and must not be in contact with the
back; however the tail furnishings may fall onto
the back.
LIMBS FOREQUARTERS:
General appearance: Seen from the front,
forelegs really straight and perpendicular; fine
bone.
Shoulder: The shoulder is fairly slanted, not
prominent, giving the appearance of being the
same length as the upper arm, about 10 cm.
Upper arm: Not standing away from the body.
Elbow: Not turned out.
Pastern: Short and straight seen from the front;
very slightly oblique seen in profile.
HINDQUARTERS:
General appearance: The pelvis is wide.
Thighs: Broad and muscular; well slanting.
Hock: Compared with the Poodle, the hock
joint is more angulated.
FEET: Sinewy. Nails preferably black; it is
however an ideal difficult to obtain.
SKIN: The pigmentation beneath the white
coat is preferably dark; the genitals are then
pigmented either black, bluish or beige.
COAT
HAIR: Fine, silky, very loose corkscrew curls
looking like the coat (fur) of the Mongolian
goat, neither flat nor corded and 7 to 10 cm
long.
GROOMING: The dog may be shown with the
feet and muzzle slightly tidied up.
COLOUR: Pure white.
SIZE: The height at the withers should not
exceed 30 cm, the small size being an element
of success.
BEFORE / AFTER BICHON FRISÉ BY MARIE AGNES
LEVRAY, “CLEPSY” GROOMING SALON 18
Grooming of the Bichon Frisé
Before we start, it is important to understand that we do not speak here
of "standard grooming" of the bichon since in the countries covered by
the FCI, the bichon is presented not groomed in exhibitions. Which is not
the case in Anglo-Saxon countries. Therefore where there will be
grooming, we will be "non-standard" in the eyes of the FCI. If you are in
one country under the auspices of the FCI, grooming presented below will
therefore only be "commercial" for you.
The Americans and the English have their way to groom the Bichon Frise.
The English give their bichon a thick head, pulled down. The US grooming,
lighter, gives the bichon a sparkling air, more mischievous. The back is
shortened, the legs are kept longer and the foot does not show. The head
is perfectly round.
When we talk about the
grooming of a bichon we are
primarily looking for an effect
of "blown powder" without any
trace of marks or lines. The coat
must be completely free of
knots. The outside line should
be sharp and steady as velvet.
The breed is well balanced,
slightly longer than high.
HERE THE GROOM IS PULLED DOWN
GIVING A STERN LOOK TO THE DOG. HERE THE HEAD IS ROUNDER AND LOOK MORE OPEN AND
GIVING THE BICHON MORE YOUTHFUL APPEARANCE AND A
MORE ALERT EXPRESSION, MORE JOYFUL.
Heads comparison
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Head Study
The top knot, ears and
muzzle are aligned
together to form a
balanced and rounded
head with no break in the
line. Dark eyes and nose
are at the center of the
head. The eyes are
implanted deeply. The
ear drops at the level of
the nose.
Sculpt the top of the
head in order to obtain a
regular and equalized
extension with the skull.
The coat is slightly
rounded with curved
shears to create a well-
formed head that is
balanced with the general cut and melts in the
neck. There is no breakage at the ears. Flatten
the top knot strongly to
make it very short above
the eyes, and more and
longer as you move
away from the eyes. The
equalized area does not
greatly exceed the outer
corner of the eyes.
Once the ears are cut to
the tip of the nose, this
gives you an idea of fur
volume available to the
jaw. The ears and the
jaw line should be equal.
Round the jaw with wide
and curved shears. The
hair at the tip of the
snout is equalized to
blend with the longest
hair of the jaw.
The only way to get the right look and head size for
the bichon is to let the wider neck, blending with
the rounded topknot and the crested neck The
wider neck will run until the withers area by
conforming to the shape of the animal and the
length of hair left. More hair is cut along later will
extend the neck. The fuller coat on the neck should
appear very natural, highlighting a long neck and a
raised head.
The throat must be cut to the same length or
shaved with the same cutting head as the one used
on the body or it may be slightly shorter.
Slightly round tips of the ears based on the length
of the nose. The top of the ear should harmonize
completely with the topknot without showing any
lines or cuttings.
PRACTICAL GUIDE: GROOMING A BICHON FRISE
20
Body and general appearance
The top of the head is done with scissors
The neck is long, curved and powerful. Keep some
more in length on the body.
The tail is left long and natural.
Draw a powerful back with good
angulation. Use the thigh muscle to
define the line.
The lowest point of your line
must start at the joint.
The hocks are lowered
Round foot and facing
The lines on all the dog should not let show any breakage or serration. The entire coat is harmonious and follows a
continuous line.
You can groom the whole dog using scissors or use a comb to help you shape the line.
For easier grooming to maintain, you can follow the same lines and shapes with a shorter cut.
When viewing the profile of your bichon, you must be able to draw an imaginary line that perfectly
straight from the back of the neck and passes the rear thigh. The cut is perfectly balanced.
The sides and the back of the neck are groomed with scissors and leveled with the line of the
body (there is no “pinch” area in the coat). Brush the hair up and use curves shears if you wish.
The hip should be slightly rounded, not pointed.
As forelegs, rear legs should follow parallel lines.
Feel free to look at your bichon from all angles to make sure everything is in perfect harmony.
The legs follow parallel lines from the
shoulder. Use the muscle of the
shoulder to define the line.
The main body portion may be made
with scissors or clippers.
The legs are made
with scissors.
21
Par Riza Wisnom
A step by step guide to grooming the Bichon Frise using the Asian Freestyle creative grooming method.
Plush limbs, little button eyes and pert, rounded ear tassels give this breed an adorably animated look.
PREP:
Brush the dog well to remove tangles and loosen dirt. Use a fine toothed comb or flea comb to remove light eye
crust from the corners of the eyes. Shave the sanitary areas with a #10 and the pads of the feet with a #30 or
#40 if the dog is not sensitive. Clip the toenails and remove any hair from the ear canal per your salon’s protocol.
BATHE AND DRY:
Bathe the dog in a gentle brightening or whitening shampoo, do not use
conditioner. Squeeze water out of the coat after rinsing thoroughly and towel dry.
Wrap the dog in a towel, leaving the head exposed. Velocity dry the coat, starting
with the head and ears. Once excess water has been blown off, move on to the
rest of the dog. Leave areas that are not being dried covered with the towel to
prevent curls from setting. The dog should be velocity dried to a light dampness.
Once the velocity drying is complete, prepare to stand dry with low heat. Working
one area at a time, concentrate the flow of air on a section of hair and brush the
coat upward using a soft slicker brush. (Photo A) The ears and tail are the only
sections that will be brushed and dried in the direction of coat growth. Continue
to brush and dry until all curl has been removed and the coat is puffy and
voluminous.
CLIPPING THE BODY:
Using a ½” (13mm) guard comb over a #30, clip from the top of the neck, just
behind the ears (Photo B) to the base of the tail and to the upper thigh of the
dog, lifting off as you reach the upper thigh (Photo C).
Clip down the point of rump and work it around
the side of the leg, setting in the rear leg
pattern similarly to a schnauzer. You may run
the clipper against the grain from the bend
behind the stifle upwards to carve out some
angulation in the rear.
Work down the sides of the neck past the
shoulder area and down to the elbow to create
a pinch at the top of the leg (Photo D). Clip from the throat area to the
breastbone, continuing on down between the legs and into the chest. Run
the clipper behind the front legs and down the
ribs.
SCISSOR THE REAR LEGS
Brush the leg down. Holding the foot up, trim hair away from
the pads around the perimeter of the paw. Now set the foot
down and scissor a beveled edge, taking care not to trim the
foot too tightly (Photo E). The foot should look like bedroom
BICHON FRISE – ASIAN STYLE
PHOTO A
PHOTO C
PHOTO D
PHOTO B
PHOTO E 22
slippers not ballerina flats (i.e. round, not pointed) Now comb the hair up
from the foot to the upper thigh and lightly mist with scissoring spray.
Using curved shears, straight shears, or blenders, scissor the side of the
leg from the upper thigh down to the foot in a smooth and continuous
motion. Continue working from the tuck up down to the front of the foot,
following the bend of the stifle and into the foot. Neaten the rump area,
scissoring tighter to the skin behind
the knee and falling off before you
get to the hock. Trim the hocks
straight down, perpendicular to the
table. Scissor the inner thigh and
leg down to the foot. (Photo F)
SCISSOR THE FRONT LEG:
Brush the leg down. Holding the
foot up, trim hair away from the
pads around the perimeter of the paw and then set the foot down and
bevel the edge just as you did on the back foot. Once again, comb upwards
and mist with scissoring spray. Scissor the top of the leg tightly to the
elbow, flaring out as you move downward, stopping about halfway down.
Now trim upward from the bevel in the foot, meeting the spot at which
you stopped scissoring when you trimmed from the elbows down. (Photo
G)
TRIMMING THE HEAD:
Clip between the eyes and clear out the
drainage areas at the inside corners with
a #10. Do not clip the hair on the bridge
of the nose (Photo Y) Fluff the entire
head, with the exception of the ears and
muzzle, upward and outward with your
comb.
Start by trimming the chin to about one
inch (26 mm), making sure the cut is
level all the way across and extends back
to the throat (Photo H).
Separate the hair on the cheeks from the
hair just inside the outside corner of the
eyes (Photo I).
PHOTO F
PHOTO G
PHOTO Y
PHOTO H
PHOTO I
23
Trim the cheek upward at a 30 degree angle from where it joins the throat
(Photo J), its lowest point not dropping below the chin length you just set in.
Stop when you get to the level
of the eyes. Repeat on the
other side, making sure both
sides are symmetrical (Photo K).
Trim the base of the back of the head where it joins the
body, moving from the back of one ear to the back of the
other, leaving it well rounded. Now trim just over the eyes,
angling your shears outwards (Photo L).
Re-fluff the
headpiece with your
comb and set the
height of your
head’s dome by
trimming the middle
of the head from the
front of the head
towards the occiput
(Photo M).
Make sure your shears are level as you cut to avoid a
lopsided head. Fluff with your comb again and round off
the corners of the dome. Repeat on the other side, again
making sure each side is symmetrical. Trim the back of
the head, blending it into the top of the dome. Fluff the
head yet again and neaten any stray hairs or uneven
spots. The head at this point should be well rounded
and smooth. (Photo O)
PHOTO J
PHOTO K
PHOTO L
PHOTO M
PHOTO O
24
TRIM THE MUZZLE:
Comb the chin hair down and fluff the moustache out to the sides.
Comb the hair on the bridge of the nose straight upwards, as if
obscuring the dog’s vision. Trim straight across the bridge with
your scissors angled outward away from the eyes at approximately
45 degrees (Photo P).
Do not scissor the hair that extends off of the sides of the nose yet.
Now set in the angle of the sides of the muzzle with one cut by
holding your shears at about a 30 degree angle from the front of
the jaw towards the back. (Photo Q) Repeat on the other side
aiming for symmetry.
Trim to neaten from the chin up, creating a nice, rounded, teddy
bear muzzle. Using thinning shears, trim just behind the muzzle and
under the hollow of the eye to create depth and a division between
the cheeks and the muzzle (Photo R).
Lastly, clip under the nose and the front rim of the bottom lip with a
#40 to expose the skin pigment below and to mimic the black lips of
a teddy bear. (Photo S)
CREATE A TASSELED EAR:
At the widest point of your head piece, set a #10 on the ears and
clip down, leaving a tassel of hair at the ends, below the point at
which the ear leather starts to curve inwards (Photo T).
Shave out the inside of the ear to match the clipped area on the
outside. Repeat on the other ear. Trim the edges of the clipped area
very tightly to the skin, avoiding the tassels (Photo U). Neaten the
dome where it joins the clipped area of the ear so that it still flows
into the roundness off the whole head. Snip the tips of the ear
tassels and fluff with a comb. Continue to fluff and scissor until a
well formed ball is achieved.
Add any finishing touches and accessories you would like and then
step back to admire your cute little creation!
PHOTO P
PHOTO Q
PHOTO R
PHOTO S
PHOTO T
PHOTO U
25
BACH FLOWERS By Françoise Janssens
Dr. Edward Bach was an English physician of the early 20th century. Frail, he
was convicted by an abdominal tumor during the First World War. That's
when he decided not to let go and began his research with the flowers which
he will extract remedies by solarization or boiling. In total he will develop a
simple and complete system of 38 flowers and an emergency remedy that
completely cover the emotions that a human can experience in a lifetime.
To help the body or the mind in healing, always go back to the root causes
and therefore the emotions that entails. The choice of flowers is always
done by taking into consideration the emotional feeling of the moment.
Elixirs are not dangerous: there are no side effects, no addiction and no
incompatibility. The only negative impact that can have flowers is that there is no effect.
Allowing animals to receive also Bach flowers means creating a bridge between them and us. This is
yet another way to deepen our communication and our special relationship with them. The animal
gats this simplicity not to be blocked by his mind. It receives the medicine that will calm his emotions
and restore the balance and harmony within his true nature. In this
way, it restarts easier its self-healing powers. To give these remedies
to our companions, do not stick a flower to a certain behavior but see
the emotion that provides this behavior. The animal is always
consistent and rational. Always be careful not to transpose our
emotions on them. Be aware of the risk of misinterpretation of the
animal's behavior by understanding or projection of our human
emotional states. Danger of anthropomorphism!
It is essential to always stay in the
observation of changes in behavior, the
context of life. Also important to recognize
the other as a member of a species and a breed with its criteria of
"normality" and "needs." To recognize as a "unique" individual with his
personality, history, etc. All this will help identify obvious flowers ... and
their action limits! With us for them (for us too of course), we can always
have their "emergency kit": The emergency remedy (Rescue) spray. It
consists of 5 flowers: Star of Bethlehem (shock), Clematis (losing feet),
Cherry Plum (loss of self-control), Impatiens (agitation), Rock Rose (panic,
terror). Star of Bethlehem, when there was a big shock. Walnut, to adapt
to changes.
All situations that the animal encounters will not be restored by the Bach
flower depending on the context but it is an excellent complement to other
techniques and veterinary medicine without replacing it. To advise and to
wisely use the Bach flowers for our companions, it is interesting to take training from an authorized
instructor of the Bach Centre in England. For now, the training is given for humans but the flowers give
excellent results on our fellow animals. In France and Belgium, there are workshops about "Bach flower
for animals" for the counsellers that are recognized by the Bach Centre.
26
FOR A SAFE CREATIVE GROOMING
INSPIRED BY LINDA JOMPHE (CANADA)
1st Part: to color or not to color, that is the question
Creative grooming is an art that can be scary,
even for some groomers, who tend to consider
that it is "bad" for the health of the animal. In
fact, like any discipline, the creative will be bad
for the animal if it is not carried out in the state
of the art. This is why, before embarking on
creative, keep in mind that anything that is
done must not alter the health or well being of
the pet. Since coloring is the scariest part of
creative grooming, let's look at this issue to
determine how to color your pet safely.
The first question to ask is not what product
can I use or what can I do with this breed or
type of hair? Above all, it is imperative to ask
the question: Can I color this animal?
So, before you start any creative work, you will
consider the lifestyle of the animal. You will
also determine whether his temperament is
suitable for creative. An animal that is fearful
or stressed with strangers should not attract
attention which will put it in a stress position.
So do not color it. One must also consider his
attitude during grooming.
Creative grooming will
always last longer than a
conventional grooming. If
the subject does not have
much patience on the
table, it is better to make
the shortest possible
experience and not to color
it. This will also be the case
for an obese dog or a dog
with arthritis and must
spend a minimum of time
on the table. Consider also
his health. If he has skin
problems, it is prone to
allergies, do not color it.
The coat should be
perfectly healthy because
the use of a product, even
temporary, could damage
further. For example, a
chalk will dry out the hair if
it is already damaged.
In the next issue we will study in detail the dog's
skin and its interaction with the color.
27
FANCY SOME KOREAN STYLE? BY JUDYTA RZEMIENIEC (POLAND)
YORKSHIRE TERRIER BEFORE (TOSIA)
YORKSHIRE TERRIER AFTER (TOSIA)
HEAD DETAIL BEFORE HEAD DETAIL AFTER
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YOUR BEFORE/AFTERS Grooming by Diane Perrault, Bel Ami Toilettage in
France
Grooming by Karine Delpy, Toilettage Chic et Mignon in
France
Grooming of Harry by Eva Michel, France
29
YOUR BEFORE/AFTER IN OUR NEXT ISSUES?
If you wish to participate in this section do not
hesitate to send us your photos of sufficient
quality to
We will be happy to share your work on these
pages. If you sent your before / after, but it
does not appear in this issue, do not worry, it
will surely be in the next one
YOUR BEFORE/AFTERS
Grooming of de Gipsy by Marie Agnès Levray, Grooming
salon “Clepsy” in France.
Grooming of Roméo by Marion Condemine, « Marion et
Cie » in France.
30
TRANSFORMATION … IDÉFIX
GROOMING OF CARLOS BY JUDYTA RZEMIENIEC
(POLAND)
If you also want to participate in the transformation section, send your pictures to [email protected] 31
