The Pakistan Textile Industry - An Overview:The textile industry is one of the most important sectors of Pakistan. It contributes significantly to the country's GDP, exports as well as employment. It is, in fact, the backbone of the Pakistani economy. Established capacity The textile industry of Pakistan has a total established spinning capacity of 1550 million kgs of yarn, weaving capacity of 4368 million square metres of fabric and finishing capacity of 4000 million square metres. The industry has a production capacity of 670 million units of garments, 400 million units of knitwear and 53 million kgs of towels. The industry has a total of 1221 units engaged in ginning and 442 units engaged in spinning. There are around 124 large units that undertake weaving and 425 small units. There are around 20600 power looms in operation in the industry. The industry also houses around 10 large finishing units and 625 small units. Pakistan's textile industry has about 50 large and 2500 small garment manufacturing units. Moreover, it also houses around 600 knitwear-producing units and 400 towel-producing units. Contribution to exports According to recent figures, the Pakistan textile industry contributes more than 60% to the country's total exports, which amounts to around 5.2 billion US dollars. The industry contributes around 46% to the total output produced in the country. In Asia, Pakistan is the 8th largest exporter of textile products. Contribution to GDP and employment The contribution of this industry to the total GDP is 8.5%. It provides employment to 38% of the work force in the country, which amounts to a figure of 15 million. However, the proportion of skilled labor is very less as compared to that of unskilled labor. Organisations in the industry All Pakistan Textile Mills Association is the chief organization that determines the rules and regulations in the Pakistan textile industry. Opportunities available The world demand for textiles is rising at around 2.5%, due to which there is a greater opportunity for rise in exports from Pakistan.

History of Pakistan Textile IndustryIncrease in the cotton production and expansion of textile industry has been impressive in Pakistan since 1947. Cotton bales increase from 1.1 million bales in 1947 to ten million bales by 2000. Number of mills increased from 3 to 600 and spindles from about 177,000 to 805 million similarly looms and finishing units increased but not in the same proportion. It employs 50% of industrial labour force and earns 65% foreign exchange of total exports. Pakistan s textile industry experts feel that Pakistan has fairly large size textile industry and 60-70% of machines need replacement for the economic and quality production of products for a highly competitive market. But unfortunately it does not have any facility for manufacturing of textile machinery of balancing modernization and replacement (BMR) in the textile mills which need to think about joint ventures for the production of complete spinning units with china, Italy and production of shuttle less looms (Projectile) with Korea, Taiwan and Italy. Cotton textile industry has been premier industry in Pakistan and a major source of export earning and employment. It also helps in value addition to the manufacturing sector of the economy. D uring the six years between 1993 and 1998, production of yarn (in quantity terms) registered a steady annual growth rate of 302% in Bangladesh and 405% in India. On the contrary, Pakistan registered a growth rate of 101% per annum in yarn production although it ranked third after China and India in the global yarn production during the same six years. In exports, while Taiwan, India and the republic of Korea registered an annual increase of 18.1%, 27.7% and 5.4% respectively during 1993 -1998, Pakistan registered a negative growth of 4.8% one important development was that till 1997, Pakistan was the world s largest exporter yarn followed by India. However, in 1998, India gained the

NO 1 pos on, le v ng Pakis an at NO 2 In the case of cotton cloth production, a number of Asian countries have been emerging in the international market to compete with Pakistan. These countries are Bangladesh, India, Taiwan, Indonesia, Thailand, Turkey, Sri Lanka and Iran. The latest available date on overall e port performance of Pakistan comported with some regional countries is given in table 1: The above-mentioned presentation in the conte t of international scenario highlights the adverse position of Pakistan s te tile industry when is likely to continue further following the full implementation of WTO agreement from 2005 onwards when an era of free trade will start globally. Notwithstanding the above fact, current stagnation in the local te tile industry can be overcome through efforts, consistent with charges occurring in the international market. It must be appreciated that all successive governments since the birth of cotton te tile industry in Pakistan have been encouraging the te tile e porters to penetrate into new market and also to broaden the base of e portable commodities by including value added te tile goods so that reliance on e ports of cotton, cotton yarn and coarse fabrics gradually become minimal. Reflecting on the state of affairs, Abid Chinoy, Pakistan cloth merchants Association (PCMA) Chairman, Appreciated government s efforts to encourage new e ports and finding new markets, which need aggressive e port marketing. The steps taken on the monetary front, such as the fre uent devaluation of Pak rupee in terms of dollar could not improve the cost competitiveness of e portable products due to increase in prices of the local and imported inputs of the local te tile industry, and also due to inelastic demand for the Pakistan s e ports. It has been rightly mentioned in the latest stage bank of Pakistan s annual report (FY01) that, Over the years Pakistan s e ports receipts have been vulnerable on account of the narrow base of e portable items, concentrated markets and low value addition this indicated that the growth in the country s overall e ports, including te tile products which contributed more then 60 of total e port receipts each year, could to be related some cosmetic and ad hoc measure like devaluation of Pak rupee and concession e port credits. The first te tile commission, which was constituted by the first material law government in 1960 had, inter-alia, recommended that an economic size te tile unit should preferably have 25,000 spindles and 500 looms. No new mill with only 12,500 spindles and without looms should be sanctioned. However, no need was paid to the advice by the sanctioning authorities with the result that an e cess capacity had tented to build up in the spinning sector. During the period 1973 to December 1992, some 71 spinning units with 1,136, 835 spindles, 6,600 rotors ands 7,329 looms were closed down. In 1992, a foreign consultant form was hired by the government to look into the stagnating conditions in the local te tile industry. One of the observations of the foreign consultant was Pakistan has failed to make real progress in the international market and is being over taken by many of the neighboring competitor countries. The spinning sector, traditionally the core of the industry, is already in the crisis with many spindles lying idle and mills being forced to close. Worse still, this sector will be hit by the projected decline of its major markets in Japan and Hong Kong in the coming years. Another important strategic recommendation given by the foreign consultant very much relevant to the current conditions: It is vital that companies play very positive role in the markets, which each one having its own marketing activity, whose job is to understand the need of the customers and the ever

changing competitive dynamics of the markets. In order to improve e ports, Pakistan s Readym ade Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PRGMEA) has urged the commerce minister Abdul Razzak Dawood to set up an Apparel Board for the promotion of export of woven and kit garments which fetch US$ 2.5 billion foreign exchange for the country. The industry experts are of the opinion that in the order to have a strong industrial base, Pakistan economy need investment upswing. Pakistan s economic growth performance during recent years has been dismal: as against the average growth rate of 6.1 in the 1980s, the half and 4.0 in the 2nd half of the 1990s. The major micro-economic instability factors like high inflation rate, budgetary deficit, continuous depreciation of rupee, economic sanctions, etc. could not help the investment process. Such an environment cannot be conducive to investment and growth. Exporters of textile products have found the target of US$ 10.4 billion set by the government for the year 2002-2003, as achievable and termed it a realistic approach. The textile sector which constituted 69 of total export during 20012002, believes that enhanced quota by the European Union and Turkey would make this possible to fetch another US$1 billion this year. The rise in export of value-added products from Pakistan was another point of encouragement for the textile sector. The export of value-added products rose to 57.4 from 53.9 last year-a clear sign that we are moving in the right direction, said the Chairman of all Pakistan textile mills association. The trade policy is considered an acceptable paper, but in the industry does not fine anything that could lead to a high level exports achievement and remove trade imbalance. Pakistan s textile sector earned US$5.77 billion during the outgoing year, compared with US$5.577 BILLION OF 2000-2001 indicating a growth of 0.69 . Textile vision 2005 has identified the present status and opportunities to make in roads in conventional and hew markets and has developed sectoral recommendations, hence the sectoral committees set up by the federal textile Board (FTB) would play an important role be ensuring the availability of quality raw materials on competitive prices and improvement in designing, and would adopt quality standards and increase productivity levels. It would attract foreign brands and promote Pakistani brands with world-class standers. With such a positive trend, Pakistan s textile sector is getting rid of old impediments and gearing itself up for the new opportunities in the new trade regime.

Import of textile machinery increased 3.1% during first eight months

During the first eight months (July to February) of the current fiscal year,

the import of textile machinery recorded 3.1 growth to $163.844 million as compared to $158.897 million in the corresponding period of l ast year. In the current tough and disappointing scenario, investment in textile industry is like a light at the end of the tunnel and reflects that still there are chances of revival in this important sector of the economy. The import cost in February was $23.10 million as against $7.992 million in the same month of last fiscal year, showing an increase of 190 . The government has already granted exemption of customs duty on import of a wide range of textile machinery and equipments including machines for extruding, drawing, texturing or cutting manmade textile materials and textile winding (including weft-winding) or reeling machines under the SRO 809(I)/2009 of September 19, 2009. (see Islamabad Outlook pg. 12). The textile machinery had been showing decreasing trend in since 2006. Pakistan imported textile machinery worth $928.6 million during 2004 -05. However a decline of 12 in the import of textile machinery was witnessed

in 2005-06 worth $817.2 million. In 2006 -07 imports declined by 38.4

and totalled $502.9 million, while machinery worth $438.3 million with a decrease of 12.8 was imported during 2007 -08. Before the removal of quota system, the textile industry made around Rs 5 billion investments by modernizing and expanding its units to prepare it self in the post quota regime. During the last ten years (1999-2009) textile industry has made an investment of about US$ 7.5 billion. The total investment to be divided in various sub sectors of textile industry, indicates that 50.2 in spinning sector followed by 17 in textile processing, 15 in weaving while the investment and other sectors namely like knit wear, made ups and synthetic textile at

respective rate of 7.02 , 4.71 and 5.76 . This investment includes both investment through bank loan as w ell as own sources. This investment has been made in the form of Balancing Modernization Replacement (BMR) expansion and new capacity. Textile Machinery worth US$ 215.5 million has been imported during the year 2008 -09. Presently whatever investment is being made it is mostly confined to the denim sector whereas spinning and value-added sector have modest investment inthis context. Textile sector is the backbone of Pakistan export economy. It comprises of 521 textiles units. Pakistan is the fourth largest p roducer of cotton and third largest consumer. It contributes 9 of GDP and employs 38 of the work force in the manufacturing sector. The stiff competition by the competitors in the global markets dented the Pakistani textile sector, which became uncompe titive in its traditional markets due to high tariff slabs on Pakistan s textile goods in comparison to its com petitors like Bangladesh and Vietnam, which have greater market access by enjoying preferential treatment in the European and American markets. Furthermore, the major issues of high financing cost, power and gas shortage coupled with their high charges domestically had devastating impact on tex tile goods when compared with China and India, which gave concessions and incentives in the shape of s ubsidies on power and financing. Cotton textile exports grew from $9.2 billion in 2004 -05 to $10.4 billion in 2006-07 and $10.5 billion in 2007 -08, but in the last fiscal year exports of textiles fell by 6 if compared to 2008 -09 ($9.95) billion. With the broad focus on framework of knowledge technology and value addition improvements, the Ministry of Textile is striving to achieve the objectives of availability of high quality cotton, developing the entire textile

value chain at par with international best practices, expanding the textile sector to produce value-added garments along with new innovative products, developing a state of the art infrastructure, augmenting investment in human resource management and enlarging our textile and clothing export. With the waiver of customs duty in the current trade policy, the import of textile machinery and equipment would receive a boost and would help fur ther industrialize the country.

Importance of textile industry According to the ECONOMIST intelligence report of August 2003 for Pakistan the following observations have been made: Despite Government efforts to diversify exports and widen the industrial base, the industrial sector remains dominated by the Textile sector. Textile Sector still represents 46% of total manufacturing and provides 68% of Pakistans Export receipts. The strong performance stemmed from two factors : a Increase in import quotas especially by U.S.A, EU and TURKEY b Textile industry has invested over US$1.5 billions in new technologies and modernization in the last 3 years. Efficiency and the innovation in textile is the only hope to get the country out of economic problems. Present status of Pakistan Textile engineering sector The Pakistan Textile Engineering Sector is underdeveloped and under utilized. Mostly it caters in the form of spares, components for modernization and machines used in cottage or small scale industries. A cursory look at the structure of Pakistan Textile Industry shows that most of them are cottage industry, small/medium industrial units and few large integrated state of art units. The number of units which fall under each category varies from sub-sector to sub-sector. Similarly the Textile Engineering Units also vary from small, medium and large in size. The Textile Engineering Industry comprises approximately 80% small work shops, 15% medium engineering Units and 5% large Engineering Units. It will not be out place to mention that the large engineering units are in Public Sector. The small and medium Engineering Units work on reverse Engineering principles, only few work according to Engineering Drawings and still fewer have Testing or Quality Control facilities. On the basis of initial survey of Textile Engineering Units (Not complete yet), approximately 500 units are engaged all over Pakistan, employing approximately 50000 work force which is mostly skilled. Even under the present conditions and without any support, Pakistan Textile Engineering Industry is providing import substitution worth around one billion US dollars. This sector also exports to small and medium Textile Units in Bangladesh, Iran, Sri Lanka, etc.

The Textile Engineering Sector is throttled through taxes on raw material, import of components, electronic and electrical parts. Competition The present Textile Engineering Industry is up against competition from smuggled, under invoiced, and mis-declared components, parts and accessories. For example, in case of second hand machinery, there is little or no check and the competition mainly rests on lower price. Machines smuggled especially from China, India, Taiwan are not better in quality but are selling cheaper. A bold initiative is needed which can boost the production as capacity and markets are there, only change in environment is need. Finishing look and control components The products manufactured locally, when displayed against foreign goods - offer a poor look primarily because of the unsightly finishing of welding seams, electroplating, painting and other surface treatments. In addition, the adoption of wrong design parameters, or the attempt to reduce the cost of production, lead to the incorporation of under-sized electrical motors and electric / electronic control panels. Quality control There are very few units which have their own material testing facilities, or have an access to any such service from out side. Although reverse engineering is practiced, yet this copying is done without adequate material testing. This results in poor quality or in many cases in an undue over - engineering. A great stress on quality control is being laid by all the major importing countries, especially in the wake of ISO 9000 series. There is, therefore, a need of assisting the local textile engineering the relevant institutions, such as PSI, NPC, CTL, etc. Assistance of present institutions To encourage the local textile industry an access to the modern practices in the specialized areas of manufacturing processes, productivity enhancement and quality control, an institutional mechanism should be set up which provides the industry an adequate and industry-friendly assistance from such organizations as MIRDC, PITAC, CTL and PSI, etc. In addition such institutions as Pak-Swiss Training Centre and Pak-German Training Centre, as well as the Small Scale Industrial Estates should be encouraged to provide the industry necessary technical assistance and production aids such as tools, jigs, fixtures, gauges, etc. for productivity improvement and quality control. Employment opportunities Keeping in view the linkage of the Engineering Sector to other sectors of economy, it can be safely assumed that every one person employed in Engineering will add at least 2 more persons in the over all economy. There is ample scope for qualified engineers in mechanical, electric and electronics disciplines to boost this sector. Need for training institutions Diploma Level Courses on the pattern of Pak-Swiss Training Centre in Karachi should also be opened in the Textile Institutions in Faisalabad and Karachi and more such courses should be introduced in the Polytechnics in areas like Multan, Hyderabad, Lahore and Gujranwala. Exhibitions Most of these small workshops are shy or afraid of getting registered or displaying their

products, mainly from the fear of the revenue collection, labor controlling and other government regulating agencies. This fear keeps them away from the mainstream Industry. This also leads to the lack of interaction among the small scale, medium scale and higher level industry for a purposeful vendor development. National Exhibitions held annually can be very helpful in bringing out the skills, the range of products and opportunities of group collaboration. It will help the planners and large scale engineering industry in defining the way for developing skills in order to make this sector strong and viable. This will culminate a Vendors List which can be recommended to foreign suppliers interested in coming to this market and starting assembling / manufacturing on large scale. The interaction between the foreign textile manufacturing industry could also be enhanced by facilitating the indigenous Textile Engineering Industry to participate in the specialized Exhibitions and fairs being held in those countries. Future opportunities Our main competitors in primary textile products with the advantage of large engineering sector in this region are China and India. The only country in this region without strong engineering base is Pakistan and our dependence upon outside Engineering Industry keeps our cost of production higher with low engineering skills. Looking into the future a strong competition from China and India for this market requirements can be used to involve them to start assembly plants under their guidance and cooperation. Some progress in the direction has led to the development of a Task Force in the Ministry of Industries and Textile Engineering is growingly lucrative for investors, local and foreigners. E-commerce Gateway MoU with Chinese Co. The E-commerce Gateway has signed a memorandum of understanding (MOU) with a Chinese company Global Enterprise Consulting to launch a business a match making' service in Pakistan and China. According to E-commerce Gateway Pakistan. "This service includes seeking of agents, distributors, buyers, suppliers or joint venture partners in Pakistan or Middle east for Chinese companies that intend to do business in these markets". The service will include all kinds of facilitation required to help increase the Chinese exports to the Middle East and South Asian markets. A textile is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw wool fibres, linen, cotton, or other material on a spinning wheel to produce long strands.[1] Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres together (felt). The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres. Fabric refers to

any mat ial made t weaving, knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding.Cloth refers to a finished piece of fabric that can be used for a purpose such as covering a bed.

Sunday textile market on the sidewalks of Karachi, Pakistan

History

Late anti ue textile, Egyptian, now in the Dumbarton Oaks collection

"Mrs. Cond Nast wearing one of the famous Fortuny tea gowns. This o has no tunic but is ne finely pleated, in the Fortuny manner, and falls in long lines, closely following the figure, to the floor" The discovery of dyed flax fibres in a cave in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE suggests textile-like materials were made even in prehistoric times.[2][3] The production of textiles is a craft whose speed and scale of production has been altered almost beyond recognition by industriali ation and the introduction of modern manufacturing techni ues. However, for the main types of textiles, plain weave, twill or satin weave, there is little difference between the ancient and modern methods. Incas have been crafting quipus (or khipus) made of fibres either from a protein, such as spun and plied thread like wool or hair from camelids such as alpacas, llamas and camels or from a cellulose like cotton for thousands of years. Khipus are a series of knots along pieces of string. They have been believed to only have acted as a form of accounti g, although new n evidence conducted by Harvard professor, Gary Urton, indicates there may be more to the khipu than just numbers. Preservation of khipus found in museum and archive collections follow general textile preservation principles and practice.

[edit] UsesTextiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and containers such as bags and baskets. In the household, they are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, covering for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in art. In the workplace, they are used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering. Miscellaneous uses include flags, backpacks, tents, nets, cleaning devices such as handkerchiefs and rags, transportation devices such as balloons, kites, sails, and parachutes,

in addition to strengthening in composite materials such as fibreglass and industrial geotextiles. Children can learn using textiles to make collages, sew, quilt, and make toys. Textiles used for industrial purposes, and chosen for characteristics other than their appearance, are commonly referred to as t hni l t til s. Technical textiles include textile structures for automotive applications, medical textiles (e.g. implants), geotextiles (reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection), protective clothing (e.g. against heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests). In all these applications stringent performance requirements must be met. Woven of threads coated withzinc oxide nanowires, laboratory fabric has been shown capable of "self -powering nanosystems" using vibrations [4][5] created by everyday actions like wind or body movements.

[edit] Fashion and textile designersFashion designers commonly rely on textile designs to set their fashion collections apart from others. Armani, Marisol Deluna, Nicole Miller, Lilly Pulitzer, the late Gianni Versace and Emilio Pucci can be easily recognized by their signature print driven designs.

[edit] Sources and types

Traditional Romanian table cloth, Maramure Textiles can be made from many materials. These materials come from four main sources: animal (wool, silk), plant (cotton, flax, jute), mineral (asbestos, glass fiber), and synthetic (nylon, polyester, acrylic). In the past, all textiles were made from natural fibres, including plant, animal, and mineral sources. In the 20th century, these were supplemented by artificial fibres made from petroleum. Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest gossamer to the sturdiest canvas. The relative thickness of fibres in cloth is measured in deniers. Microfibre refers to fibres made of strands thinner than one denier.

[edit] Animal textilesAnimal textiles are commonly made from hair or fur.

Wool refers to the hair of the domestic goat or sheep, which is distinguished from other types of animal hair in that the individual strands are coated with scales and tightly crimped, and the wool as a whole is coated with a wax mixture known as lanolin (aka wool grease), which is waterproof and dirtproof[citati eeded ]. Woollen refers to a bulkier yarn produced from carded, non-parallel fibre, while worsted refers to a finer yarn which is spun from longer fibres which have been combed to be parallel. Wool is commonly used for warm clothing. Cashmere, the hair of the Indian cashmere goat, and mohair, the hair of the North African angora goat, are types of wool known for their softness. Other animal textiles which are made from hair or fur are alpaca wool, vicua wool, llama wool, and camel hair, generally used in the production of coats, jackets, ponchos, blankets, and other warm coverings. Angora refers to the long, thick, soft hair of the angora rabbit. Wadmal is a coarse cloth made of wool, produced in Scandinavia, mostly 1000~1500CE. Silk is an animal textile made from the fibres of the cocoon of the Chinese silkworm. This is spun into a smooth, shiny fabric prized for its sleek texture.

[edit] Plant textilesGrass, rush, hemp, and sisal are all used in making rope. In the first two, the entire plant is used for this purpose, while in the last two, only fibres from the plant are utilized. Coir (coconut fibre) is used in making twine, and also in floormats, doormats, brushes, mattresses, floor tiles, and sacking. Straw and bamboo are both used to make hats. Straw, a dried form of grass, is also used for stuffing, as is kapok. Fibres from pulpwood trees, cotton, rice, hemp, and nettle are used in making paper. Cotton, flax, jute, hemp, modal and even bamboo fibre are all used in clothing. Pia (pineapple fibre) and ramie are also fibres used in clothing, generally with a blend of other fibres such as cotton. Acetate is used to increase the shininess of certain fabrics such as silks, velvets, and taffetas. Seaweed is used in the production of textiles. A water-soluble fibre known as alginate is produced and is used as a holding fibre; when the cloth is finished, the alginate is dissolved, leaving an open area Lyocell is a man-made fabric derived from wood pulp. It is often described as a man-made silk equivalent and is a tough fabric which is often blended with other fabrics - cotton for example.

[edit] Mineral textilesAsbestos and basalt fibre are used for vinyl tiles, sheeting, and adhesives, "transite" panels and siding, acoustical ceilings, stage curtains, and fire blankets.

Glass Fibre is used in the production of spacesuits, ironing board and mattress covers, ropes and cables, reinforcement fibre for composite materials, insect netting, flame-retardant and protective fabric, soundproof, fireproof, and insulating fibres. Metal fibre, metal foil, and metal wire have a variety of uses, including the production of cloth-of-gold and jewelry. Hardware cloth is a coarse weave of steel wire, used in construction.

[edit] Synthetic textiles

A variety of contemporary fabrics. From the left: evenweave cotton, velvet, printed cotton, calico, felt, satin, silk, hessian, polycotton. All synthetic textiles are used primarily in the production of clothing. Polyester fibre is used in all types of clothing, either alone or blended with fibres such as cotton. Aramid fibre (e.g. Twaron) is used for flame-retardant clothing, cut-protection, and armor. Acrylic is a fibre used to imitate wools, including cashmere, and is often used in replacement of them. Nylon is a fibre used to imitate silk; it is used in the production of pantyhose. Thicker nylon fibres are used in rope and outdoor clothing. Spandex (trade name Lycra) is a polyurethane product that can be made tight-fitting without impeding movement. It is used to make activewear, bras, and swimsuits. Olefin fibre is a fibre used in activewear, linings, and warm clothing. Olefins are hydrophobic, allowing them to dry quickly. A sintered felt of olefin fibres is sold under the trade name Tyvek. Ingeo is a polylactide fibre blended with other fibres such as cotton and used in clothing. It is more hydrophilic than most other synthetics, allowing it to wick away perspiration. Lurex is a metallic fibre used in clothing embellishment.

Milk proteins can also be used to create synthetic fabric. Milk or casein fibre cloth was developed during World War I in Germany, and further developed in Italy and America during the 1930s.[6] Milk fibre fabric is not very durable and wrinkles easily, but has a pH similar to human skin and possesses anti-bacterial properties. It is marketed as a biodegradable, renewable synthetic fibre.[7]

[edit] Production methodsMain article: textile manufacturing

Brilliantly dyed traditional woven textiles of Guatemala, and woman weaving on a backstrap loom. Weaving is a textile production method which involves interlacing a set of longer threads (called the warp) with a set of crossing threads (called the weft). This is done on a frame or machine known as a loom, of which there are a number of types. Some weaving is still done by hand, but the vast majority is mechanised. Knitting and crocheting involve interlacing loops of yarn, which are formed either on a knitting needle or on a crochet hook, together in a line. The two processes are different in that knitting has several active loops at one time, on the knitting needle waiting to interlock with another loop, while crocheting never has more than one active loop on the needle. Spread Tow is a production method where the yarn are spread into thin tapes, and then the tapes are weaved as warp and weft. This method is mostly used for composite materials, Spread Tow Fabrics can be made in carbon, aramide, etc. Braiding or plaiting involves twisting threads together into cloth. Knotting involves tying threads together and is used in making macrame. Lace is made by interlocking threads together independently, using a backing and any of the methods described above, to create a fine fabric with open holes in the work. Lace can be made by either hand or machine. Carpets, rugs, velvet, velour, and velveteen, are made by interlacing a secondary yarn through woven cloth, creating a tufted layer known as a nap or pile.

Felting involves pressing a mat of fibres together, and working them together until they become tangled. A liquid, such as soapy water, is usually added to lubric the fibres, and to ate open up the microscopic scales on strands of wool. Nonwoven textiles are manufactured by the bonding of fibres to make fabric. Bonding may be thermal, mechnical or adhessives can be used.

[edit] Treatments

Woven tartan of Clan Campbell, Scotland.

Embroidered skirts by the Alfaro-Nez family of Cochas, Peru, using traditional Peruvian embroidery methods.[8] Textiles are often dyed, with fabrics available in almost every colour. The dying process often requires several dozen gallons of water for each pound of clothing.[9] Coloured designs t in textiles can be created by weaving together fibres of different colours ( artan or Uzbek Ikat), adding coloured stitches to finished fabric (embroidery), creating patterns by resist dyeing methods, tying off areas of cloth and dyeing the rest (tie-dyeing), or drawing wax designs on cloth and dyeing in between them (batik), or using various printing processes on finished fabric. Woodblock printing, still used in India and elsewhere today, is the oldest of these dating back to at least 220CE in China. Textiles are also sometimes bleached, making the textile pale or white. Textiles are sometimes finished by chemical processes to change their characteristics. In the 19th century and early 20th century starching was commonly used to make clothing more resistant to stains and wrinkles. Since the 1990s, with advances in technologies such as

permanent press process, finishing agents have been used to strengthen fabrics and make them wrinkle free.[1] More recently, nanomaterials research has led to additional advancements, with companies such as Nano-Tex and NanoHorizons developing permanent treatments based on metallic nanoparticles for making textiles more resistant to things such as water, stains, wrinkles, and pathogens such as bacteria and fungi.[10] More so today than ever before, textiles receive a range of treatments before they reach the end-user. From formaldehyde finishes (to improve crease-resistance) to biocidic finishes and from flame retardants to dyeing of many types of fabric, the possibilities are almost endless. However, many of these finishes may also have detrimental effects on the end user. A number of disperse, acid and reactive dyes (for example) have been shown to be allergenic to sensitive individuals [11]. Further to this, specific dyes within this group have also been shown to induce purpuric contact dermatitis [12]. Although formaldehyde levels in clothing are unlikely to be at levels high enough to cause an allergic reaction [13], due to the presence of such a chemical, quality control and testing are of utmost importance. Flame retardants (mainly in the brominated form) are also of concern where the environment, and their potential toxicity, are concerned [14]. Testing for these additives is possible at a number of commercial laboratories, it is also possible to have textiles tested for according to the Oekotex Certification Standard which contains limits levels for the use of certain chemicals in textiles products.

Introduction :Introduction The textile industry is one of the most important sectors of Pakistan. It contributes significantly to the countrys 8.5% GDP, exports as well employment. It is, in fact, the backbone of the Pakistani economy.

Contribution to exports :Contribution to exports According to recent figures, the Pakistan textile industry contributes more than 60% to the country total exports, which amounts to around 5.2 billion US dollars. The industry contributes around 46% to the total output produced in the country. In Asia, Pakistan is the 8th largest exporter of textile products.

Contribution to GDP and employment :Contribution to GDP and employment The contribution of this industry to the total GDP is 8.5%. It provides employment to 38% of the work force in the country, which amounts to a figure of 15 million. However, the proportion of skilled labor is very less as compared to that of unskilled labor.

Sectors of Textile Industry :Sectors of Textile Industry These are the main sectors of Textile Industry: Spinning Weaving Finishing Dyeing Printing Pressing Fashion designing

Spinning :Spinning Spinning is the process of converting fibers into yarn. The fibers may be natural fibers such as cotton or manmade fibers such as polyester. Sometimes, the term spinning is also used for production of manmade filament yarn. Manmade Filament Yarn: yarn that is not made from fibers.

Weaving :Weaving Weaving is the process of making cloth, rugs, blankets, and other products by crossing two sets of threads over and under each other. Weaving sector is one of the most important textile sub-sectors. The exports of woven fabrics and other related woven madeups form a major portion of textile exports from Pakistan.

Finishing :Finishing Cloth finishing is one of the chief arts in the textile industry. The appearance of the goods is often of first concern, and the appearance of any fabric is largely due to the methods of finishing.

Dyeing :Dyeing Dyeing clothing and other material is a fairly simple process. It doesn't take a lot of work and the amount of work it takes often depends on what type of dye you purchase.

Printing :Printing Printing is some thing through which cloths are printed with different designing and prints.

Pressing :Pressing Pressing is to press the cloths.

Fashion Designing :Fashion Designing Fashion design is the applied art dedicated to clothing and lifestyle accessories created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time.

Challenges to Textile Industry : Challenges to Textile Industry The Pakistan textile industry is currently facing several challenges. Need for the industry to improve the quality of its products. Need for greater value addition in its products. Need to undertake an up gradation in the technology used. Cost of power of competitors.

Problems of textile industry :Problems of textile industry The largest problem that the industry faces today is the Sales tax. Customs Duty Taxes. Load shedding of electricity. Interference of government in industry.

Introduction & Importance of Quality Control

Twisting cotton fiber and crossing the threads with threads to cloth man with cloth is a story of many thousand years.

With basic unchanged concepts of Spinning and Weaving there has been extensive introduction of new techniques resulting in the refinement to the development of a worldwide industry involved in the process of transforming fibers into yarns and cloths.

Over the past 150 years the apparel business evolved from assembling of individual handsewn garments to the mechanized mass production and distribution of ready-to-wear in the world market. For many apparel business real growth in sales volume and profits is difficult to achieve. Intensified foreign and domestic competition increase of production, transportation cost and changing consumer demographics and life styles all stand in the way of profitable growth.

The business is immensely effected by

Fashion Changes Seasonal Changes

As a general rule the people are always hunting for different variations of products which lead to rapid changes in fashion, seasonal change depends upon numerous factors such as weather, traditional festivals, school sessions, holidays etc. The apparel businesses have intensive interactions with these changes.

By looking at the current increasing trend of apparel industry a team of energetic and young professionals who can possess extensive experience in apparel manufacturing should be managed by any company.

The relevant departmental structures to ensure grass-root level of Quality Controls are necessary to run smooth flow of production for competition.

A commitment towards satisfactory work can play a vital role in any business. In order to achieve the desired result of customer a good Quality Control system is a base rule.

Strict Quality Control is the most sensitive and responsible areas of a factory which gives key to the success of any business.

The realistic approach in the apparel industry is that our products and services can be designed for quality as well as produced for Quality. So that is why a professional Quality Control and operational techniques are essential to meet the desirable quality requirement of the buyers.

A Brief History of Quality Control

Human beings are frequently described in terms of their inherent characteristics. For example, we often describe ourselves as political animals, thinking trees, or monkeys that walk on their hind legs. Another way we have of describing ourselves is tool-using animals.

The material from which humans made their tools progressed through the ages from stone to bronze to iron. There are various theories as to the origin of humankind, but the most reliable one at present seems to be that humans able to us, stone-chopping tools emerged in Africa approximately 1.7 million years ago, Even as long ago as this, our ancestors would certainly gave had strong interest in quality, at least as far as the tools they used were concerned. A cracked earthenware pot would be useless for storing or transporting water, while arrows fitted with arrowheads of excellent quality would have flown straighter and farther, leading to greater success in the hunt. Autumn harvests would probably have been increased by plowing the fields deeper with sharper hoes and plowshares. We have learned such things through long years of experience since our first appearance on the earth.

People stopped being hunter-gatherers and began to produce their own food approximately

10,000 years ago. They also brought their extended history of complete self-sufficiency to a close around this time and began trading with one another. Bartering was the first form of trade, and at first it probably took place only over short distances. The distances over which business was conducted increased as various means of transportatio were developed and n money eventually appeared as a convenient means of carrying on trade. Since the concept of cost certainly would not have arisen before the appearance of money, this concept probably has a history of 10,000 years at most.

Concern for product quality and the process control

Concern for product quality and process control is nothing new. Historians have traced the concept as far back as 3000 B.C. in Babylonia. Among the references to quality from the Code of Hammurabi, ruler of Babylonia Is the following excerpt: The mason who builds a house which falls down and kills the inmate shall be put to death. This law reflects a concern for quality in antiquity. Process control is a concept that may have begun with the pyramids of Egypt, when a system of standards for quarrying and dressing of stone was designed. One has only to examine the pyramids at Cheops to appreciate this Remarkable achievement. Later, Greek architecture would surpass Egyptian architecture in the area of military applications. Centuries later, the shipbuilding operation in Venice introduced rudimentary production control and standardization.

Following the Industrial Revolution and the resulting factory system, quality and process control began to take on some of the characteristics that we know today. Specialization of labor in the factory demanded it. Interchangeability of parts was introduced by Eli Whitney when he manufactured 15,000 muskets for the federal government. This event was representative of the emerging era of mass production, when inspection by a skilled craftsman at a workbench was replaced by the specialized function of inspection conducted by individuals not directly involved in the production process. When mass production first began, propelled by, James Watts improvements to the steam engine. The Taylor System generally regarded as a highly productive manufacturing system was introduced by the Ford Motor company in 1903.

Specialization of labor and quality assurance took a giant step forward in 1911 with the publication of Frederick W. Taylors book Principles of Scientific Management. This pioneering work had a profound effect on management thought and practice .Taylors philosophy was one of extreme functional specialization and he suggested eight functional bosses for the ship floor, one of whom was assigned the task of inspection.

The inspector is responsible for the quality of the work, and both the workmen and the speed bosses [who see that the proper cutting tools are used, that the work is properly driven, and that cuts are started in the right part of the piece] must see that the worked is finished to suit

him. This man can, of course, do his work best if he is a master of the art of finishing work both well and quickly.

Taylor later conceded that extreme functional specialization has its disadvantages, but his notion of process analysis and quality control by inspection of the final product still lives on in many firms today. Statistical quality control (SQC), the forerunner of todays TQM or total quality control, had its beginnings in the mid-1920s at the Western Electric plant of the Bell System. Walter Shewhart, a Bell Laboratories physicist, designed the original version of SQC for the zero defects mass production of complex telephone exchanges and telephone sets. In 1931 Shewhart published his landmark book Economic Control of Quality of Manufactured Product. This book provided a precise and measurable definition of quality control an developed statistical techniques for evaluating production and improving quality. During World War II, W. Edwards Deming and Joseph Juran, both former members of Shewharts group, separately developed the versions used today.

It is generally accepted today that the Japanese owe their product leadership partly to adopting the precepts of Deming and Juran. According to Peter Drucker, U.S. industry ignored their contributions for 40 years and is only now converting to SQC.

The Willimatic Division of Rogers Corporation, an IBM supplier, uses just-in-time techniques along with X-bar and R Charts for key product attributes to achieve statistical process control. Rework is reduced by 40 percent, scrap by 50 percent, and productivity is increased by 14 percent.

Share of Pakistan Production In Worlds Production

Those born on this land of pure and simple are verbally aware of the fact that textile Industry forms backbone of our economy but the fact has never been exposed to natives. The textile Industry has landed into a juncture where there may not be greater but reasonable opportunities to rejuvenate. We must realize that innovation is the prestigious offspring of the realization and understanding of possibilities. The recorded estimation proves that Pakistan produce approximately 10.7% of the total worlds production and provides clothing to 61.0% million people.

Addition In Foreign Buyers

To this date Pakistan textile industry attracts numerous foreign buyers and has added a lot in countrys export scale but now we are entering a new era of high-tech textile, todays textile no more resembles to the textile of the past, it is now more an industry of advancement and the apparel demands of people have also been revolutionized.

Ability To Increase The Textile Units

Our media highlights the cotton crises, the fall of our textile industry, its unpredictable image in world trade market but we cannot deviate from the usual natural phenomena only because of the unusual. The usual strengthens our ambitions, modifies our approach and paves the way out with much more dynamic, responsible, pragmatic and stronger market presence in world trade market. The usual being our textile instinct inherited from the last more than 4 decades. The nation which possessed the ability to multiply 6 textile units from 1947 to more than 100 successful units with export orientation themes has still the capacity to prove their worth in the future in many ways than it has ever been.

Products:

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TEIJIN FIBERS LIMITED HOME Products ECO CIRCLE

ECO CIRCLE

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The Meaning of "Recycling" Is Changing Applications

Imagine if all of the PET bottles were melted down and recycled into new ones. Would we realize that they were once thrown away? Expecting a recycled product to be different in quality and have variations has become second nature to us. ECO CIRCLETM is TEIJIN's world-first, closed-loop recycling system for polyester products. After textile products are collected, they are broken down and processed to create new polyester fiber with no compromises in quality or variations. Will you also participate in perpetual recycling?

ECO CIRCLE is an environmentally friendly system. 100 recycling means...

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No garbage output Low fuel consumption Dramatic reduction in energy consumption and CO2 output

Application

Fiber SpinningSpinning is the twisting together of fibers to form yarn (or thread, rope, or cable). Earlier fiber was spun by hand using simple tools like spindle and distaff. Later the use of spinning wheel gained importance. Industrial spinning started in the 18th century with the beginning of the Industrial Revolution. Hand-spinning remains a popular handicraft. Industrial spinning Fibers can not be used to make clothes in their raw form. For this purpose, they must be converted into yarns. The process used for yarn formation is spinning. Spinning by hand was a slow and laborious process. Thus, Many implements and methods were invented for making it faster and simple. Eventually, the techniques were refined and industrial spinning started manufacturing yarn in various ways. The methods selected depend upon the factors such as the manufacturer's preference of equipment, the economic implications, the fibers to be used and the desired properties of yarn to be produced. Ring method is the oldest and the most used technique. Open end spinning is another important method. The basic manufacturing process of spinning includes carding, combing, drafting, twisting and winding. As the fibers pass through these processes, they are successively formed into lap, sliver, roving and finally yarn. A brief description of the journey from fibers to yarns will help in understanding industrial spinning in a better way. The raw fiber arrives at a spinning mill as compressed mass which goes through the processes of blending, opening and cleaning. Blending is done to obtain uniformity of fiber quality. Opening is done to loosen the hard lumps of fiber and disentangle them. Cleaning is required to remove the trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs and any remaining seeds. Carding is the initial straightening process which puts the fiber into a parallel lengthwise alignment. This makes the tangled mass of fiber ready to produce yarn. Now the fiber is called 'Lap' . The lap is treated for removing the remaining trash, disentangling and molding it into a round rope like mass called 'Sliver'. The sliver is then straighten again which is called Combing. In it, fine-toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until they are arranged in such a parallel manner that the short fibers are completely separated from the longer fibers. This procedure is not required for man made staple fiber because they are cut into predetermined uniform lengths. This process forms a 'comb sliver' made of the longest fibers. The combing process is identified with better quality because long staple yarn produces stronger, smoother and more serviceable fabrics. Drawing pulls the staple lengthwise over each other. As a result longer and thinner slivers are produced. After several stages of drawing out, the sliver is passed to the spindles where it is given its first twist and is then wound on bobbins. 'Roving' is the final product of the several drawing-out operations. It is the preparatory stage for the final insertion of twist. Till now, enough twist is given for holding the fibers together but it has no tensile strength. It can break apart easily with a slight pull. The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it passes through several sets of rollers running at high speed and finally the 'Yarn' is produced of the sizes desired. Spinning Machines Traditional v/s Modern Techniques Hand spinning was replaced by powered spinning machines which was very fast. Initially it was done

by water or steam power and then by electricity. The spinning jenny, a multi-spool spinning wheel significantly reduced the amount of work required to produce yarn. A single worker was now able to work eight or more spools at a time.

Then came the spinning frame which produced a stronger thread than the spinning jenny. As it was too large to be operated by hand, a spinning frame powered by a waterwheel was invented. It was then called the water frame. The elements of the spinning jenny and water frame were combined to create the spinning mule. Then came the spinning frame which produced a stronger thread than the spinning jenny. As it was too large to be operated by hand, a spinning frame powered by a waterwheel was invented. It was then called the water frame. The elements of the spinning jenny and water frame were combined to create the spinning mule.

WeavingWeaving is the most basic process in which two different sets of yarns or threads are interlaced with each other to form a fabric or cloth. One of these sets is called warp which is the lengthwise yarn running from the back to the front of the loom. The other set of crosswise yarns are the filling which are called the weft or the woof. Preparing Warps and Wefts for Weaving The warps form the basic structure of fabrics. As such, they are made to pass through many operations before actual weaving is done. These operations include spooling, warping and slashing. In spooling, the yarn is wound on larger spools, or cones, that are placed on a rack known as creel. From the creel, the yarns are wound on a warp beam, which looks like a huge spool. These lengths of hundreds of warped yarns lie parallel to one another. These yarns are unwound for slashing, or sizing. The yarn is coated with sizing with the help of slasher machine. Slashing prevents chafing or breaking of yarns during weaving process. Sizing is either starch based or a synthetic like polyvinyl alcohol or a water soluble acrylic polymers. The sized yarns are then wound on a final warp beam and are ready for the loom. The filling yarns experience less strain during the weaving process. Their preparation includes spinning them to the required size and giving them just the right amount of twist desired for the kind of fabric they will be used. Basic Weaving Operations No matter what type of weaving is being done, four major operations are performed in sequence and are continuously repeated.

Shedding In shedding, alternate warp yarns are raised to insert the filling yarn into the warp to form a shed. Shedding is automatically performed by the harness on the modern weaving looms. Harness is a rectangular frame to which a series of wires, called heddles, are attached. As each warp yarn comes from the warp beam, it passes through an opening in the heddle. The operation of drawing each warp yarn through its appropriate heddle eye is known as drawing in. Picking As the warp yarns are raised through shedding, the weft yarn is inserted through the shed by a carrier device. A single crossing of the filling from one side of the loom to the other is called a pick. Different methods are used for carrying the filling yarn through the shed in different kinds of looms. There are many types of looms including shuttle loom, shuttle less loom, and circular loom. Shuttle Loom: The shuttle loom is the oldest type of weaving loom which uses a shuttle which contains a bobbin of filling yarn that appears through a hole situated in the side. The shuttle is batted across the loom and during this process, it leaves a trail of the filling at the rate of about 110 to 225 picks per minute (ppm). Although very effective and versatile, the shuttle looms are slow and noisy. Also the shuttle sometimes leads to abrasion on the warp yarns and at other times causes thread breaks. As a result the machine has to be stopped for tying the broken yarns. Shuttle less loom: Many kinds of shuttle less looms are used for weaving such as Projectile Looms; Rapier Looms; Water Jet Looms; and Air Jet Looms. Projectile Loom: It is sometimes called missile loom as the picking action is done by a series of small bullet like projectiles which hold the weft yarn and carry it through the shed and then return empty. All the filling yarns are inserted from the same side of the loom. A special tucking device holds the ends of the wefts in place at the edge of the cloth to form the selvage. This loom needs smooth, uniform yarn which is properly sized in order to reduce friction. Projectile loom can produce up to 300 ppm and is less noisier then the shuttle loom. Rapier Loom: Rapier loom comes in many types. Early models of it use one long rapier device that travels along the width of the loom to carry the weft from one side to the other. Another type of rapier loom has two rapiers, one on each side of the loom. They may be rigid, flexible or telescopic. One rapier feeds the weft halfway through the sheds of warp yarns to the arm on the other side, which reaches in and carries it across the rest of the way. Rapier looms are very efficient and their speed ranges from 200 to 260 ppm. These looms can manufacture a variety of fabrics ranging from muslin fabric to drapery fabrics and even upholstery fabrics. Water Jet Loom: In it, a pre measured length of weft yarn is carried across the loom by a jet of water. These looms are very fast with speeds up to 600 ppm and very low noise. Also they don't place much tension on the filling yarn. As the pick is tension less, very high quality of warp yarns are

needed for efficient operation. Also, only yarns that are not readily absorbent can be used to make fabrics on water jet looms such as filament yarn of acetate, nylon, polyester, and glass. However, it can produce very high quality fabrics having great appearance and feel. Air Jet Looms: In the air jet weaving looms, a jet of air is used to propel the weft yarn through the shed at speeds of up to 600 ppm. Uniform weft yarns are needed to make fabrics on this loom. Also heavier yarns are suitable for air jet looms as the lighter fabrics are very difficult to control through shed. However, too heavy yarns also can't be carried across the loom by air jet. In spite of these limitations, air jet loom can produce a wide variety of fabrics. Circular Looms: These looms are particularly used for making tubular fabrics rather than flat fabrics. A shuttle device in it circulates the weft in a shed formed around the machine. A circular loom is primarily used for bagging material.

Beating Up This weaving operation is also called battening. In it, all warp yarns pass through the heddle eyelets and through openings in another frame that looks like a comb and is known as reed. With each picking operation, the reed pushes or beats each weft yarn against the portion of the fabric that has already been formed. It results in a firm and compact fabric construction. Taking Up and Letting Off As the shedding, picking and battening processes are being operated, the new fabric is wound on the cloth beam. This is known as 'taking up'. At the same time, the warp yarns are released from the warp beam which is known as 'letting off'.

The pattern of the weave depends on the manner in which groups of warped yarns are raised by the harnesses to allow the insertion of the weft yarn. These differences are responsible for producing different types of fabric weaves. Weave patterns can create various degrees of durability in fabrics apart from their utility and looks.

Cotton Fabric Cotton fiber undergoes several process to reach the stage of final cloth. The processes are as mentioned below: Ginning Ginning is the method of separating the cotton fibers from the seedpods, and sometimes with the sticky seeds. This is done in the cotton field with the help of machines. Spinning Spinning is the succeeding step to ginning. This process involves the making of yarn from the cotton fiber. The cotton yarns are made of different thickness in this stage. Weaving

Weaving is the most important process in the making of cotton cloth. In this process, two yarn is placed to make warp and weft of a loom which successively turn them into a cloth. Fabric finishes and treatments After weaving the cotton fabric passes through different processing stages till it reaches to the state of final product. The stages are mentioned below, but it is not necessary for the fabric to undergo all the process for e.g. grain bags cloth are used unbleached.y y y y y y

Singeing - This process burns off the fibers sticking in the goods. Desizing - This process involves removing the size material from warp yarns in woven fabrics. Scouring - The cleaning part of the fabrics are involved in this process. Bleaching - The fabrics are bleached here to make it more whiter and lighter. Mercerizing - In this process, the fabric is immersed in alkali to make it more strong, shining, durable, shrink free and stretch free. Dyeing - This process involves the changing of the fabric color by the treatment with a dye.

Finishing - In this process, the fabric is treated with some chemicals or other useful agents to make it qualitatively more better, for e.g. cotton is made sun protected by treating it with UV protecting agent. Leather Fabric Pre-tanningy y y y y y y y y

Animal skin is cleaned and salted to prevent decay. The hide or pelt then is sent to tannery for trimming and sorting. Next, it is soaked in water to restore moisture content, which is lost during salting process. It is treated mechanically with rollers and blades to remove fat/muscle and flesh (Fleshing). During liming the skin is soaked in lime solution to remove the hair, inter-fibrillary protein and epidermis. In De-liming the hide or pelt is washed in water containing ammonium chloride or ammonium sulphate to neutralise it. Bating involves treating the leather with digestive enzymes to remove non-fibrous protein. Scudding is done with a blunt knife to remove remaining hair roots, skin pigmentation, and surface fats. Lastly, it is put in sulphuric acid to lower the pH.

Tanning Tanning is the process where the leather gets the necessary feel and physical characteristics. In this process, the collagen, an insoluble fibrous protein, which carries the major property of the hide or pelt gets less susceptible to decay and are kept flexible. This is done by removing the water molecules from the gap of protein molecules and replacing it with chemicals that retain flexibility.

The main tanning processes are mineral/chrome tanning, vegetable tanning and oil tanning.y y

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Mineral/chrome tanning is the most common and modern method, which uses chromium salts. This makes leather water proof and stretchable. Vegetable tanning, or bark tanning is the process where the hide is soaked in a solution of bark of oak/chestnut which is chopped or boiled. The leather becomes moldable and can be tooled. Moreover when dry, the leather will not stretch. Oil tanning is a process where fish and animal oil is used. The leather becomes very soft and flexible. It cope up with wetted condition without causing damage to the leather. Chamois leather is best example of oil tanning.

Lubricating, Dyeing and Finishing After tanning, the leather undergoes different processes according to the use of the final product.y y

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Vegetable-tanned leather which are used for shoe soles is bleached, lubricated and then run through rolling machines to make it firm and glossy. Chrome-tanned leather, for shoe uppers, is split and shaved and then placed in a rotating drum for the dyeing process using several types of coloring materials to give color fastness and durability. Before or after dyeing, it is rolled in a fat liquor containing emulsified oils and greases. Next, the leather is pasted on glass or ceramic frames and then passed through drying tunnels with controlled heat and humidity.

In the finishing process, the leather is coated with grain surface which contains finishing compound. This is brushed under a revolving brush-covered cylinder. For smooth finish, the leather is treated with a mixture of waxes, shellac or emulsified synthetic resins, dyes, and pigments (to avoid painted look). Glazing is done to achieve polished surface. Silk Fabric From Cocoon to Yarn Silk from cultivated silkworms is more used though silk of wild worms is also valuable. The worms feed on mulberry leaves and increases their body size by nearly 10,000 times in a short span of time. The worm ceases to eat by the end of thirty days and attach itself to a piece of straw and begins to spin its cocoon. After the spinning of cocoon and before the hatching of the worm into a moth, the cocoon is soaked in hot water unraveling and producing long size thread. This fine thread is the basic component of silk yarn and fabric. Washing and bleaching of the silk threads The natural fiber extracted from the silkworm holds some glutinous substance (gummy substance or glue) which is removed by washing and bleaching. Weaving Weaving is a process where the fabric is created by interlacing the warp yarns and the weft

yarns. It is either done by machines or hand. Hand woven fabric is better than the machine woven. It can make delicate designs with different colored thread. Modern machines use lances, projectiles, a jet of compressed air to shoot the weft-yarn between the warp-yarns. It leads to greater yield and productivity. A good quality of silk begins with a warp of approximately 2,000 threads for one meter width. 1,600 threads or 1,800 threads are considered to be poor quality fabric. Loosely woven fabrics are difficult to sew. Dyeing, Printing and Finishing There are two main types of silk fabrics. One which is yarn-dyed or dyed-woven, like taffeta, duchess satin and many pattern-woven fabrics. The other type is piece-dyed fabrics, which is carried out after weaving, like crepes, twills, etc. The dyeing process gives the silk different shades. Printing is giving pattern to the fabric. It is either done by block-printing method, rollerprinting method or screen printing. Screen printing is widely used in silk fabrics. Embroidery process gives embellishment and the perfect finish to the fabric to make it look more beautiful. All fabrics has to be finished. It is here the fabric gets the desired appearance and feel. Finishing process is either physical or chemical. It give treatments like crease-proofing, water-proofing, fire-proofing, etc. Final soaking in a chemical solution This process helps to preserve the sheen and luster of the silk fabric. It adds weight and makes the fabric soft, smooth, easy to iron and wrinkle resistant.THE PROCESS OF MAKING COTTON CLOTH

Based on a flow diagram contained in the book Job Descriptions for the Cotton Textile Industry, June 1939, United States Government Printing Office, Washington. In some steps of the flow diagram, both an "old style" and "new style" process is discussed. Only the old style steps are included below since they would have been used in the late 1800s and early 1900s.

The manufacture of cotton cloth is a complex process, involving many highly skilled workers, each performing a particular critical step in the overall process. The many complex steps can be divided into three general categories - Preparation, Spinning, and Weaving. In addition to this, there is the process of preparing the design that will be applied to the woven cloth. Cotton cloth manufacturing was indeed a "high-tech" venture in the 1880s!

PREPARATION

1. Bales of cotton of various grades are moved from the WAREHOUSE to the BALE OPENING room. 2. Selected bales are opened and placed in position beside the BREAKING and OPENING machine. This is actually a line of machines, working as a unit, that tear apart and partially clean matted, compressed, and baled cotton. The result is small loose bunches of cotton. 3. The cotton is then placed into the BLENDING MACHINE. This is a group of devices that are synchronized to proportion definite amounts of various grades of cotton which are to be blended together. 4. At this time, matted cotton and waste yarn salvaged from operations in the mill are placed into the WASTE MACHINE. This machine beats, pulls apart, and fluffs up waste cotton to prepare it for reuse. 5. Cotton from both the BLENDING MACHINE and the WASTE MACHINE is fed into the BREAKER PICKER. In this unit the raw cotton is partially cleaned by beating and fluffing and then fed into the FINISHER PICKER. 6. The FINISHER PICKER receives partially cleaned cotton in the form of LAP from the B REAKER PICKER and completes the cleaning and fluffing process. LAP is a general term used to designate wide sheets of loosely matted cotton. 7. The cotton is next processed by a CARDING MACHINE, where dirt and short fibers are removed, other fibers are laid parallel and formed into a ropelike strand called a SLIVER. The SLIVER is deposited in large cylindrical containers called CANS. 8. Subsequent processing depends on whether better grade (combed) yarn, or lower grade (carded) yarn is desired. For the lower grade, processig continues at the DRAWING FRAME (see step 12 below) 9. For better grade yarn, the SLIVER is first processed by the SLIVER LAPPING MACHINE, which draws and combines several strands of SLIVER into a sheet of LAP and winds it on a spool ready for RIBBON LAPPING or COMBING. 10. The LAP is processed by a RIBBON LAPPING MACHINE which draws and combines several rolls of LAP into one roll of RIBBON LAP, straightening the fibers slightly and making the lap more uniform in weight and texture, ready for feeding to a COMBING MACHINE. RIBBON LAP is a roll of closely matted cotton fibers, about 10 inches wide. 11. COMBING is the process of extracting fibers below a predetermined length and removing any remaining dirt. Output of the COMBING MACHINE is de posited in CANS. 12. The cotton is next processed by the DRAWING FRAME. It is a machine in which several strands of SLIVER are combined into one strand and DRAWN OUT so that the combined strands approximate the weight and size of any one of the original strands. The term DRAWN OUT means to stretch a strand of cotton, usually by running the strand between several pairs of rollers, each pair turning faster than the pair before it. 13. The SLUBBING MACHINE then draws out strands of SLIVER and twists them together loosely in order to give the strands (now called ROVING) sufficient strength to withstand subsequent operations. 14. The ROVING is processed by the FLY FRAME. This machine progressively combines two strands of partially processed ROVING into one, draws out the combined strands until they are of prescribed weight, and twists them loosely in order to give them sufficient strength to withstand subsequent operations.

SPINNING 1. The cotton is now ready for SPINNING. Spinning is the process of making YARN from cotton fibers by drawing out and twisting the fibers into a thin strand. That is, one or more strands of slightly twisted ROVING are used to produce one strand of spun YARN. The yarn is wound on bobbins. 2. The next step is to produce either WARP or FILLING. WARP is the set of yarn strands which run lengthwise in a piece of cloth. FILLING, also called WOOF and WELT, is the yarn which is interlaced through the WARP to produce cloth. Making FILLING: a. FILLING may be single-ply or multiple-ply. For multiple-ply, steps (a) and (b) for making WARP below are completed before the yarn is conditioned. For single-ply, the yarn is immediatly conditioned after spinning. Conditioning is the act of exposing bobbins of FILLING YARN to steam or to a spray of conditioning solution in order to set the twist, to remove kinks from the yarn, and to prevent its kinking in subsequent processes. Making WARP: a. The DOUBLING MACHINE winds two or more strands of yarn onto one PACKAGE without twisting them. PACKAGE is simply a general term for any wound arrangement of YARN. b. The yarn is then TWISTED. The TWISTING MACHINE twists two or more strands of spun yarn into a heavier, stronger, single strand. This process may be repeated until the desired number of plys is produced. c. The WINDING MACHINE winds yarn from several bobbins in a continuous length onto a spool. Output is CHEESES or CONES of yarn to be used for WARP. The term CHEESE refers to a roll of yarn built up on a paper or wooden tube in a form that resembles a bulk cheese. A CONE is a tapered cylinder of wood, metal, or cardboard around which yarn is wound. 3. The WARP may, or may not, be dyed. If not, then it is next processed by the WARPING MACHINE. This machine takes about 500 strands of yarn and winds them side by side onto one large spool called a SECTION BEAM. The SECTION BEAM is about three feet in diameter. Processing continues at step 6 below. 4. If the WARP is to be dyed, it is processed by the BALL WARPING MACHINE. This machine takes about 500 strands of yarn and gathers them together into a large, loose, rope-like strand, and winds it on a wooden core preparatory to dyeing. The yarn is then dyed in a different location, producing rolls of dyed WARP YARN. 5. The dyed yarn is processed by the BEAMER MACHINE which separates the individual strands of dyed yarn and winds them onto one large spool (BEAM). The result is the same as step 3 above. 6. The SLASHING MACHINE takes the yarns from several SECTION BEAMS and winds them side by side onto one wider spool called a LOOM BEAM.

WEAVING 1. WEAVING is the interlacing of WARP and FILLING YARN to form a cloth. 1. The inputs to the weaving process, performed on a LOOM, are (1) the WARP YARN from the LOOM BEAM (2) the FILL YARN from a bobbin, and (3) the mechanism that controls the design to be applied to the cloth (see Designing below).

2. If there is no LOOM BEAM currently in the LOOM, the new BEAM must be DRAWN-IN. DRAWING IN is the process of threading the WARP filaments from the LOOM BEAM into the LOOM in the order indicated by the design to be applied to the cloth (see Designing below). If the current LOOM BEAM has been exhausted, the yarn ends from the new BEAM are twisted or knotted to the ends of the exhausted BEAM. 3. As the LOOM runs, the longitudinal strands of WARP YARN are positioned so that every other strand is raised. A pointed block of wood called a SHUTTLE pulls the FILLING YARN through the strands. The position of the WARP YARN strands are then reversed and the SHUTTLE pulls the FILLING YARN in the reverse direction. This process then repeats. Note that this description is for a simple weave. 4. As bobbins are emptied, any remaining yarn is removed from them and returned to the waste machine for salvage. The clean bobbins are then returned to the spinning operations. 5. Cloth produced by the loom is wound on a large roll and sent to the STITCHING MACHINE, where lengths of cloth are stitched together. 6. The SHEARING MACHINE cuts away knots and loose yarn ends from the surface of the cloth to give it a smooth surface. 7. Finally, the cloth is inspected, graded for quality, and delivered to shipping.

DESIGNING 1. Designing is the process of deciding on the pattern that is to be woven into a cloth and also the basic weave (plain, twill, or satin). The design is drawn on cross-section paper and called a DESIGN DRAFT. 2. There are two primary types of LOOMS - the DOBBY LOOM and the JACQUARD LOOM. The former is adequate for simple weaves, while the latter is required for more complex weaves. The main difference in the two LOOMs lies in how the individual WARP YARN threads are controlled, as explained below. DOBBY LOOM a. The HEDDLE is a fiber or metal strand, pierced with a hole (eye), through which a WARP YARN strand is threaded. b. The HARNESS is an assemblage of HEDDLES attached to a HARNESS FRAME. A separate HARNESS is used for each group of WARP YARN strands that must be moved independently to weave a desired pattern. c. Each HARNESS FRAME is fastened to a mechanism that raises and lowers it in proper sequence to form the SHEDS through which the SHUTTLE carries the FILLING YARN to produce cloth of a specified pattern. The SHED is the opening made across the WARP by the raising of some threads and the depressing of others. It is through this opening that the SHUTTLE passes and lays the cross of FILLING YARN of a fabric. d. A two-harness LOOM (one with two sets of HEDDLES) can produce plain weaves. Three or more HARNESSES are required to produce twill fabrics. Other types of fabrics may require a minimum of five HARNESSES. e. The cloth designer converts the DESIGN DRAFT into a PATTERN CHAIN, an arrangement of wooden crossbars and metal pegs which is used to control the WEAVING of cloth designs and

patterns on the DOBBY LOOM. The metal pegs, about an inch long, determine which HARNESSES are raised and when. JACQUARD LOOM a. Each strand of WARP YARN can be individually controlled. The HEDDLE HARNESS of the DOBBY LOOM is replaced by a series of upright wires with hooks at their upper ends. The hooks are attached to a controlling head high above the loom. The Jacquard head is controlled by a punch card system. b. The cloth designer converts the DESIGN DRAFT into punched cards. The presence or absence of holes in each card determines whether each WARP YARN strand is raised or lowered. The cards are fed through the Jacquard head at the rate of one card for each pass of the SHUTTLE. c. Since the cards are small, and each one can control only a few WARP YARN strands, a number of cards are laced together to control the full width of the LOOM.

T-Shir :T-shirts are durable, versatile garments with mass appeal that may be worn as outerwear or underwear. Since their creation in 1920, T-shirts have evolved into a two-billion dollar market. T-shirts are available in a variety of colors, patterns, and styles, such as the standard crew neck and V-neck, as well as tank tops and scoop necks. T-shirt sleeves may be short or long, capped, yoked, or raglan. Additional features include pockets and decorative trim. Tshirts are also popular garments on which to display one's interests, tastes, and affiliations using customized screen prints or heat transfers. Printed shirts may feature political slogans, humor, art, sports, as well as famous people and places. T-shirts are also inexpensive promotional vehicles for products and special events. T-shirts fit just about anyone in any size, from infants to seniors. Adult sizes are generally small, medium, large, and extra-large, while sizes for toddlers are detennined by month and weight. In addition, to compensate for the larger heads of infants relative to their bodies, shirts are specially designed with shoulder openings that may be fastened with buttons or snaps.

Raw MaterialsThe majority of T-shirts are made of 100% cotton, polyester, or a cotton/polyester blend. Environmentally conscious manufacturers may use organically grown cotton and natural dyes. Stretchable T-shirts are made of knit fabrics, especially jerseys, rib knits, and interlock rib knits, which consist of two ribbed fabrics that are joined together. Jerseys are most frequently used since they are versatile, comfortable, and relatively inexpensive. They also are a popular material for applying screen prints and heat transfers. Some jerseys come in tubular form, simplifying the production process by reducing the number of seams. Rib knit fabrics are often used when a snugger fit is desired. Many higher quality T-shirts are made of durable interlock rib knit fabrics. Neckbands add support to the garment and give the neckline of the T-shirt a more finished look. Neckbands are generally one-by-one inch rib knits, although heavier fabrics or higher quality T-shirts may require two-by-two rib knits. Neckband fabrics may be tubed rib knits of

specific widths, or flat fabric that must be seamed. Additional T-shirt materials include tape or seam binding, made of a twill or another stiff fabric. Binding reinforces the neckline and shoulder seams and by covering the seams, it protects them from ripping apart under tension. Alternatively, elastic may be used at the shoulder seams so they remain flexible. Thread is of course an essential element in sewing any garment. Several types and colors of thread may be used to make a single T-shirt. Some manufacturers use white thread for seams on all their shirts, regardless of color, thus eliminating the extra labor involved in changing the thread. Visible topstitching is done with a color of thread that blends with the fabric. Colorless, or monofilament, thread could be used for hems of any color fabric, again eliminating the need to change thread often, though monofilament thread may irritate the skin somewhat. Finally, optional decorative features may include trim, such as braiding,

Making T-shirts is a fairly simple and largely automated process. Specially designed machines integrate cutting, assembling, and stitching for the most efficient operations. contrasting cuffs, appliqus, and heat transfer or screen print designs.

The Manufacturing ProcessMaking T-shirts is a fairly simple and largely automated process. Specially designed machines integrate cutting, assembling, and stitching for the most efficient operations. The most commonly used seams for T-shirts are narrow, superimposed seams, which are usually

made by placing one piece of fabric onto another and lining up the seam edges. These seams are frequently stitched with an overedge stitch, which requires one needle thread from above and two looper threads from below. This particular seam and stitch combination results in a flexible finished seam. Another type of seam that may be used for T-shirts are bound seams, in which a narrow piece of fabric is folded around a seam, as at the neckline. These seams may be stitched together using a lockstitch, chainstitch, or overedge stitch. Depending on the style of the T-shirt, the order in which the garment is assembled may vary slightly.

Stylingy

1 The T-shirt style is designed and the dimensions are transferred to patterns. Adjustments are made for size differences and stylistic preferences.

Cuttingy

2 The T-shirt sections are cut to the dimensions of the patterns. The pieces consist of a tubed body, or separate front and back sections, sleeves, perhaps pockets, and trim.

Assembling the front and backy

3 For fabric that is not tubed, the separate pieces for the front and back sections must be stitched together at the sides. They are joined at the seam lines to form a simple, narrow, superimposed seam and stitched together using an overedge stitch. Caremust be taken to avoid a needle cutting the yarn of the fabric, which can lead to tears in the garment.

Assembling the sleevesy

y

4 The hems of sleeves are generally finished before they are fitted into the garment, since it is easier to hem the fabric while it is flat. An automated system moves the sleeves to the sewing head by conveyor. The edge may be finished by folding it over, forming the hem and stitching, or by applying a band. The band may be attached as a superimposed seam or folded over the edge as binding. 5 If the T-shirt body is tubular, the sleeve material is first sewn together, and then set into the garment. Alternatively, if the T-shirt is "cut and sewn," the unseamed sleeve is set into place. Later during the final stage of sewing the shirt, the sleeve and side seams are sewn in one action.

Stitching the hemy

6 The garment hem is commonly sewn with an overedge stitch, resulting in a flexible hem. The tension of the stitch should be loose enough to allow stretching the garment without tearing the fabric. Alternative hem styles include a combination of edge finishing stitches.

Adding pocketsy

7 Pockets may be sewn onto T-shirts intended for casual wear. Higher quality T-shirts will insert an interlining into the pocket so that it maintains its shape. The interlining is inserted into the pocket as it is sewn onto the T-shirt front. Pockets may be attached to the garment

with automated setters, so the operator only has to arrange the fabric pieces, and the mechanical setter positions the pocket and stitches the seam.

Stitching the shoulder seamsy

8 Generally, shoulder seams require a simple superimposed seam. Higher quality T-shirt manufacturers may reinforce seams with tape or elastic. Depending on the style of the Tshirt, the seams at the shoulder may be completed before or after the neckband is attached. For instance, if a tubular neckband is to be applied, the shoulder seams must first be closed.

Attaching the neckbandy

9 For crew neck shirts, the neck edge should be slightly shorter in circumference than the outer edge where it is attached to the garment. Thus, the neckband must be stretched just the right amount to prevent bulging. Tubular neckbands are applied manually. The bands are folded, wrong sides together, stretched slightly, and aligned with the neckline. The superimposed seam is stitched with an overedge stitch.

Bound seams are finished with a cover stitch and are easy to achieve. Bound seams may be used on a variety of neckline styles. The process entails feeding ribbed fabric through machines which fold the fabric and apply tension to it. Some neckbands on lower-priced shirts are attached separately to the front and back necklines of the garment. Thus when the shoulder seams are stitched, seams are visible on the neckband. V-necks require the extra step of either lapping or mitering the neckband. In the former process, one side is folded over the other. A mitered seam is more complex, requiring an operator to overlap the band accurately and stitch the band at center front. An easier method for a V-neck look is to attach the band to the neckline and then sew a tuck to form a V.

Finishing the neckliney

10 Necklines with superimposed seams may be taped, so that the shirt is stronger and more comfortable. Tape may be extended across the back and over the shoulder seams to reinforce this area as well and to flatten the seam. The seam is then cover stitched or top stitched.

Label settingy

11 One or more labels are usually attached at the back of the neckline. Labels provide information about the manufacturer, size, fabric content, and washing instructions.

Optional featuresy

12 Some T-shirts will have trim or screen prints added for decorative purposes. Special Tshirts for infants have larger openings at the head. The shoulder seams are left open near the neck, and buttons or other fasteners are attached.

Finishing operationsy y

13 T-shirts are inspected for flaws in the fabric, stitching, and thread. 14 High-quality T-shirts may be pressed through steam tunnels before they are packaged. Packaging depends on the type of T-shirt and the intended distribution outlet. For underwear, the shirts are folded and packaged in pre-printed bags, usually of clear plastic, that list information about the product. Shirts may be boarded, or folded around a piece of c