The Best of Oahu

1

Everyone ventures to Oahu seeking a different experience. Some talk about wantingto find the “real” Hawaii, some are looking for heart-pounding adventure, some yearnfor the relaxing and healing powers of the islands, and others are drawn by Hawaii’saloha spirit, in which kindness and friendliness prevail.

This book is designed to help you have the vacation of your dreams. For those tooexcited to page through from beginning to end, this chapter highlights the very bestof what Honolulu and Oahu have to offer.

1 The Best Oahu ExperiencesTo have the absolute best experiences onOahu, be prepared for a different culture,language, cuisine, and way of doingthings. Slow down—you’re on an islandthat operates on its own schedule. Toreally experience Oahu, we recommendthe following:

• Get out on the Water: You’ll takehome memories of an emerald islandrising out of the cobalt sea with whitewispy clouds set against an azure sky,or the Waikiki shoreline colored bythe setting sun. There are many dif-ferent boats to choose from, rangingfrom tiny kayaks to 100-foot sight-seeing vessels, even state-of-the-artboats guaranteed to prevent seasick-ness. See chapter 6 for details on allkinds of cruises and watersports.

• Plunge under the Water: Don mask,fins, and snorkel and dive into themagical world beneath the surface,where clouds of colorful tropical fishflit by, craggy old turtles lumberalong, and tiny marine creatureshover over exotic corals. Can’t swim?Take one of the many submarines orsemi-submersibles. If you come to

Hawaii and ignore the underwaterworld, you’re missing half of whatmakes up this paradise. See chapter 6.

• Meet Local Folks: If you go toHawaii and see only people like theones back home, you might as wellstay home. Extend yourself, leave theresorts and tourist quarters, go out andlearn about Hawaii and its people. Justsmile and say “Howzit?” which means“How’s it going?”—and you’ll usuallymake a new friend. Oahu is remark-ably cosmopolitan; every ethnic groupin the world seems to be here. It’s fas-cinating to discover the varieties offood, culture, language, and customs.

• Drive to the North Shore: Just anhour’s drive from Honolulu, theNorth Shore is another world: a pas-toral, rural setting with magnificentbeaches and a slower way of life. Dur-ing the winter months, stop andwatch the professionals surf the mon-ster waves. See chapter 7.

• Watch the Hula: This is Hawaii, soyou have to experience the hula. Ahula performance is a popular way forvisitors to get a taste of traditional

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T H E B E S T O A H U E X P E R I E N C E S 7

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Hawaiian culture. For a more gen-uine Hawaiian hula experience, catchthe hula halau performed Mondaythrough Friday at 1pm at the BishopMuseum. See chapter 7.

• Experience a Turning Point inAmerica’s History: The UnitedStates could no longer turn its backon World War II after December 7,

1941, the day that Japanese war-planes bombed Pearl Harbor. Stand-ing on the deck of the USS ArizonaMemorial, which straddles the eter-nal tomb for the 1,177 sailors andMarines trapped below deck whenthe battleship sank in 9 minutes, is amoment you’ll never forget. Seechapter 7.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F O A H U8

2 The Best BeachesSee chapter 6 for complete details on allthese beaches and their facilities.

• Waikiki Beach: This famous stretchof sand is the spot that originally putHawaii on the tourist map. No beachanywhere is so widely known or souniversally sought as this narrow, 11⁄2-mile-long crescent of soft sand at thefoot of a string of high-rise hotels.Home to the world’s longest-runningbeach party, Waikiki attracts nearlyfive million visitors a year from everycorner of the planet. In high season,it’s packed towel-to-towel, but there’sno denying the beauty of Waikiki.

• Lanikai Beach: Hidden, off thebeaten tourist path, this beach on thewindward side has a mile of powder-soft sand and water that’s safe forswimming. It’s the perfect isolatedspot for a morning of swimming andrelaxation. With the prevailing tradewinds, it’s also excellent for sailingand windsurfing. Sun-worshipersshould arrive in the morning, as theshadow of the Koolau Mountainsblocks the sun’s rays in the afternoon.

• Kailua Beach: Imagine a 30-acrepublic park with a broad, grassy areawith picnic tables, a public boatramp, restrooms, a pavilion, a volley-ball court, and food stands. Add awide, sandy beach, great for diving,swimming, sailing, snorkeling, andboard- and windsurfing, and you’vegot Kailua Beach, which is tops on

the windward side of the island. Onweekends, local families consider itthe place to go. Weekdays, you prac-tically have it all to yourself.

• Kahana Bay Beach Park: With salt-and-pepper sand, a crescent-shapedbeach protected by ironwoods andkamani trees and, as a backdrop, alush junglelike valley interruptedonly by jagged cliffs, you’d swear thisbeach was in Tahiti or Bora Bora.Kahana offers great swimming (evensafe for children), good fishing, andperfect conditions for kayaking.Combine that with picnic areas,camping, and hiking trails, and youhave one of the best beaches on theisland.

• Malaekahana Beach: If you’d like toventure back to Hawaii before jetplanes brought millions of people toOahu, back to the days when therewere few footprints on the sand, thengo north to the romantic woodedbeach park at Malaekahana. This is aplace to sit in quiet solitude or tobeachcomb along the shore. There’sgood swimming most of the time,and good snorkeling when it’s calm,but no lifeguard. Surprisingly, veryfew visitors come to Malaekahana—one of the best beaches on Oahu, it’sa true find.

• Sunset Beach: Surfers around theworld know this site famous for itsspectacular winter surf—the waves

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can be huge, thundering peaks reach-ing 15 to 20 feet. In the summermonths, Sunset calms down andbecomes a safe swimming beach. It’s agreat place to people-watch year-round, as you’ll spot everybody fromwannabe Baywatch babes to KingKong surfers.

• Waimea Bay: Here is one of Oahu’smost dramatic beaches. During muchof the winter—October to April—huge waves come pounding in, creat-ing strong rip currents. Even expertsurfers think twice when confrontedwith 30-foot waves that crash on theshore with the force of a runaway loco-motive. It’s hard to believe that during

the summer this same bay is glassy andcalm—a great place for swimming,snorkeling, and diving. Oh, and bythe way, despite what the Beach Boyscroon in “Surfin’ USA” (Why-a-mee-ah), it’s pronounced Why-may-ah.

• Pokai Bay: If you dream of a pow-dered-sugar sand beach, a place youcan swim, snorkel, and probably bethe only one on the beach (on week-days), try this off-the-beaten-pathshoreline. Surrounded by a reef, thewaters inside are calm enough forchildren and offer excellent snorkel-ing. Come with aloha spirit and arespect for local customs—the resi-dents here don’t see too many visitors.

T H E B E S T S N O R K E L I N G & D I V I N G S I T E S 9

3 The Best Snorkeling & Diving SitesA different Hawaii greets anyone with amask, snorkel, and fins. Under the sea,you’ll find schools of brilliant tropicalfish, slow-moving green sea turtles, dart-ing game fish, slack-jawed moray eels,and prehistoric-looking coral. It’s a kalei-doscope of color and wonder. For moreon exploring Oahu’s underwater world,see chapter 6.

• Hanauma Bay: It can get verycrowded, but—for clear, warm, calmwaters, an abundance of fish that areso friendly they’ll swim right up toyour face mask, a beautiful setting,and easy access—there’s no place likeHanauma Bay. Just wade in waistdeep and look down to see more than 50 species of reef and inshorefish common to Hawaiian waters.Snorkelers hug the safe, shallow innerbay—it’s really like swimming in anoutdoor aquarium. Serious, experi-enced divers shoot “the slot,” a pas-sage through the reef, to gain accessto Witch’s Brew, a turbulent cove,and other outer-reef experiences.

• Wreck of the Mahi: Oahu is a won-derful place to scuba dive, especially

for those interested in wreck diving.One of the more famous wrecks inHawaii is the Mahi, a 185-foot for-mer minesweeper, which is easilyaccessible just south of Waianae.Abundant marine life makes it a greatplace to shoot photos—schools oflemon butterflyfish and ta’ape are socomfortable with divers and photog-raphers that they practically pose.Eagle rays, green sea turtles, mantarays, and white-tipped sharks occa-sionally cruise by, and eels peek outfrom the wreck.

• Kahuna Canyon: One of the mostmagical summer dive spots is KahunaCanyon. Walls rise from the oceanfloor to create the illusion of anunderwater Grand Canyon. Insidethe canyon, crab, octopi, slipper, andspiny lobsters abound (be aware thattaking them in the summer is illegal),and giant trevally, parrotfish, andunicorn tangs congregate. Outside,you’re likely to see the occasionalshark in the distance.

• Shark’s Cove: Braver snorkelersmight want to head to Shark’s Cove,

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on the North Shore just off Kame-hameha Highway, between Haleiwaand Pupukea. Sounds risky, we know,but we’ve never seen or heard of anysharks in this cove; and in summerthis big, lava-edged pool is one ofOahu’s best snorkeling spots. Wavessplash over the natural lava grottoand cascade like waterfalls into thepool full of tropical fish. Deep-seacaves to explore are to the right of thecove.

• Kapiolani Park Beach: In the centerof this beach park, a section known as Queen’s Beach or Queen’s SurfBeach, between the Natatorium andthe Waikiki Aquarium, is great forsnorkeling. I prefer the reef in frontof the Aquarium because it has easyaccess to the sandy shoreline and thewaters are usually calm. Bonus: it’sright next door to the Aquarium incase you see any flora or fauna youwould like more information about.

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4 The Best Golf CoursesOahu is golf country, with 5 municipal, 9military, and 20 private courses to choosefrom. The courses range from 9-holemunicipals, perfect for beginners, tochampionship courses that stump even thepros. See chapter 6 for complete details.

• Ko Olina Golf Club (& 808/676-5309): Golf Digest named this beauti-ful 6,867-yard, par-72 course one of“America’s Top 75 Resort Courses”when it opened in 1992. The rollingfairways and elevated tees and a fewtoo many water features (alwayswhere you don’t want them) will def-initely improve your game or humbleyour attitude.

• Turtle Bay Resort (& 808/293-8574): Of the two courses to choosefrom here, we recommend the 18-hole Arnold Palmer Course (for-merly the Links at Kuilima), designedby Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay. Theynever meant for golfers to get off tooeasy—this is a challenging course.The front 9 holes, with rolling terrain,only a few trees, and lots of wind, playlike a course on the British Isles. Theback 9 holes have narrower, tree-linedfairways and water. In addition toocean views, the course circles Puna-hoolapa Marsh, a protected wetlandfor endangered Hawaiian waterfowl.

• Makaha Resort Golf Club (& 808/695-7111 or 808/695-5239): Read-ers of Honolulu named this challeng-ing course Oahu’s best, and in 2002the readers of Golfweek rated it inHawaii’s top 10. An hour’s drive fromthe crowds of Honolulu, this WilliamBell–designed course is in MakahaValley on the island’s leeward side.Incredibly beautiful, sheer, 1,500-foot volcanic walls tower over thecourse, and swaying palm trees andbright bougainvillea surround it; anoccasional peacock even struts acrossthe fairways. “I was distracted by thebeauty” is a great excuse for yourscore at day’s end.

• Olomana Golf Links (& 808/259-7926): This gorgeous course inWaimanalo is on the other side of theisland from Waikiki. The low-handi-cap golfer may not find this coursedifficult, but the striking views of thecraggy Koolau mountain ridges areworth the greens fees alone. The par-72, 6,326-yard course is popular withlocal residents and visitors. The coursestarts off a bit hilly on the front 9, butflattens out by the back 9. The back 9have their own special surprises,including tricky water hazards.

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The weather on Oahu is usually sunny,with trade winds providing coolingbreezes—perfect for a walk. Below areour favorites, from city to trail.

• Diamond Head Crater: Most every-one can make this moderate walk tothe summit of Hawaii’s most famouslandmark. Kids love the top of the760-foot volcanic cone, where theyhave 360-degree views of Oahu upthe leeward coast from Waikiki. The1.4-mile round-trip takes about anhour. See chapter 6.

• Makiki–Manoa Cliff Trails: A 15-minute drive from downtown, thiswalk passes through a rainforest andalong a ridgetop with nonstop views.The somewhat strenuous loop trail isone you’ll never forget, but it’s morethan 6 miles long, gains 1,260 feet inelevation, and takes about 3 hours tofinish. The views of the city and theshoreline are spectacular. See chapter 6.

• Manoa Falls Trail: This easy .75-mile(one-way) hike is terrific for families;it takes less than an hour to reach idyl-lic Manoa Falls. The often-muddytrail follows Waihi Stream and mean-ders through the forest reserve pastguava and mountain apple trees andwild ginger. The forest is moist andhumid and inhabited by nothingmore dangerous than giant blood-thirsty mosquitoes. See chapter 6.

• Chinatown: Honolulu’s Chinatownappeals to the senses: The pungentaroma of Vietnamese pho mingleswith the sweet scent of burningincense; vendors and shoppers speaknoisily in the open market; retiredmen talk story over games of mah-jongg; and the constant buzz of traf-fic all contribute to the cacophony ofsounds. No trip to Honolulu is com-plete without a visit to this exotic,historic district. See chapter 7.

T H E B E S T V I E W S 11

6 The Best Views• Puu Ualakaa State Park: Watching

the sun set into the Pacific from a1,048-foot hill named after a sweetpotato is actually much more roman-tic that it sounds. Puu Ualakaa trans-lates into “rolling sweet potato hill,”which refers to how the early Hawai-ians harvested the crop. Don’t missthe sweeping panoramic views, whichextend from Diamond Head acrossWaikiki and downtown Honolulu,over the airport and Pearl City, all theway to the Waianae range. Catch greatphoto ops during the day, romanticsunset views in the evening, and starryskies at night. See chapter 7.

• Nuuanu Pali Lookout: Oahu’s best-looking side, the Windward Coast,can be seen in its full glory from theNuuanu Pali Lookout, a gusty perch

set amid jagged cliffs piercing thepuffy white clouds that go racing by.1,000 feet below, the island is a carpetof green that runs to an azure Pacificdotted by tiny offshore islets. You’llfeel like you’re standing on the edgeof the world. See chapter 7.

• Diamond Head Crater: The viewfrom atop this world-famous 720-foot-tall sleeping volcano is not to bemissed. The 360-degree view fromKoko Crater to Barbers Point and theWaianae mountains is worth the 560-foot hike. See chapter 6.

• Lanikai Beach: This is one of thebest places on Oahu to greet the sun-rise. Watch the sky slowly move frompitch black to burnt orange as the sunbegins to rise over the two tiny off-shore islands of Mokulua. This is a

5 The Best Walks

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five-senses experience: birds singingthe sun up; a gentle breeze on yourface; the taste of salt in the air; thesmell of the ocean, the sand, and thefragrant flowers nearby; and thekaleidoscope of colors as another daydawns. See chapter 6.

• Puu O Mahuka Heiau: Once thelargest sacrificial temple on Oahu,Puu O Mahuka Heiau is now a state

historic site. Located on a 300-footbluff, the heiau encompasses some 5acres. Hawaiians still come here topray—you may see offerings such asti leaves, flowers, and fruit. Don’t dis-turb the offerings or walk on thestones—it’s very disrespectful. Theview from this bluff is awe-inspiring,from Waimea Bay all the way toKaena Point. See chapter 7.

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7 The Best Adventures for Thrill-SeekersSee chapter 6 for details on these andmany other adventures.

• Soar in Silence in a Glider: Soaringthrough silence on gossamer-likewings with a panoramic view of Oahuis an unforgettable experience. Gliderrides are available at Dillingham AirField, in Mokuleia, on Oahu’s NorthShore. The glider is towed behind aplane; at the right altitude, the tow isdropped, and you (and the gliderpilot) are left to soar in the thermals.

• Surf Waikiki in a Hawaiian Outrig-ger Canoe: It’s summertime andthere’s a South Pacific swell rolling intoWaikiki from Tahiti; here’s your chanceto try surfing—in a Hawaiian outriggercanoe. Numerous beach concessionson Waikiki Beach offer the chance topaddle an outrigger canoe and surfback into Waikiki. Not only do you geta great view of the beach from offshore,but the thrill of actually catching awave and gliding back into shore.

• Float on the Thermals on a TandemHang Glider: See things from abird’s-eye view (literally) as you andan instructor float high above Oahuon a tandem hang glider.

• Leap into the Ocean: Even though allthe signs say DANGEROUS, STAY OFF

THE ROCKS, a favorite pastime onOahu is climbing the stone precipiceat Waimea Beach Park and leapinginto the ocean. This is for experiencedswimmers in summer only, as thethundering winter waves drive every-one from the sea, except the profes-sional surfers and the very, very stupid.

• Venture into the Deep: It’s Hawaii—you have to see what’s under thewaves. Try scuba diving; you can enjoya “scuba experience” with absolutelyno previous diving experience. Here’syour opportunity to glide weightlesslythrough the ocean while you admirethe multicolored marine creatures.

• Eyeball-to-eyeball with a Shark:You’re 4 miles out from land, which isjust a speck on the horizon, with hun-dreds of feet of open ocean. Suddenlyfrom out of the blue depths a shapeemerges: the sleek, pale shadow of a 6-foot-long gray reef shark, followedquickly by a couple of 10-foot-longGalápagos sharks. Within a few heart-beats, you’re surrounded by sharks onall sides. Do you panic? No, you areon the North Shore Shark Adventure.

8 The Best Places to Discover the Real OahuOahu isn’t just any other beach destina-tion. It has a wonderfully rich, ancienthistory and culture, and people who are

worth getting to know. If you want tomeet the “local” folks who live on Oahu,check out the following:

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• Watch the Ancient Hawaiian Sportof Outrigger Canoe Paddling: FromFebruary to September, on weekdayevenings and weekend days, hun-dreds of canoe paddlers gather at AlaWai Canal and practice the Hawaiiansport of canoe paddling. Find a com-fortable spot at Ala Wai Park, next tothe canal, and watch this ancientsport come to life. See the Calendarof Events in chapter 2, “PlanningYour Trip to Oahu.”

• Attend a Hawaiian-LanguageChurch Service: Kawaiahao Church(& 808/522-1333) is the Westmin-ster Abbey of Hawaii; the vestibule islined with portraits of the Hawaiianmonarchy, many of whom were coro-nated in this very building. The coralchurch is a perfect setting to experi-ence an all-Hawaiian service, heldevery Sunday at 9am, complete withHawaiian song. See p. 197.

• Buy a Lei from Vendors in China-town: A host of cultural sights andexperiences are to be had in Hon-olulu’s Chinatown. Wander throughthis several-square-block area with itsjumble of exotic shops offering herbs,Chinese groceries, and acupuncture

services. Before you leave, be sure tocheck out the lei sellers on MaunakeaStreet (near N. Hotel St.), whereHawaii’s finest leis go for as little as$3.50. See chapter 7 for neighbor-hood walking tours and details onwhere to buy leis.

• Observe the Fish Auction: There isnothing else quite like the HonoluluFish Auction at the United FishingAgency, Pier 38, 1131 N. NimitzHwy., Honolulu (& 808/536-2148).Fishermen bring their fresh catch in at5:30am (sharp) Monday through Sat-urday, and the small group of buyersbids on all manner of fish. The auc-tion lasts until all the fish are sold. Itis well worth getting up early to enjoythis unique cultural experience. Seethe Fish Markets section of chapter 8.

• Get a Bargain at the Aloha FleaMarket: For 50¢ admission, it’s anall-day show at the Aloha Stadiumparking lot, where more than 1,000vendors sell everything from junk tojewels. Go early for the best deals.Open Wednesday, Saturday, and Sun-day from 6am to 3pm. See the box“Favorite Oahu Experiences,” inchapter 6.

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9 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts• Halekulani (& 800/367-2343 or

808/923-2311; www.halekulani.com):Halekulani translates into “HouseBefitting Heaven,” an apt descriptionfor this luxury resort spread over 5acres of prime Waikiki beachfrontproperty. When money is no object,this is the place to stay. The atmos-phere of elegance envelops you as soonas you step into the lobby. Even if youdon’t stay here, drop by at sunset to sipon a mai tai at the gracious HouseWithout a Key and listen to SonnyKamehele sing Hawaiian songs as agraceful hula dancer sways to themusic. See p. 89.

• Embassy Suites Hotel–WaikikiBeach Walk (& 800/EMBASSY or808/921-2345; www.waikikibeach.embassysuites.com): Just opened in 2007, this ultra-luxurious one- and two-bedroom-suite hotel chain(known for its complimentary, all-you-can-eat, cooked-to-order break-fast and evening manager’s cocktailreception) has one of the most centrallocations in Waikiki and is loadedwith amenities. When you pencil itout, it’s actually a good “deal” forfamilies. See p. 88.

• Royal Hawaiian (& 800/325-3535or 808/923-7311; www.sheraton.com):

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Hidden in the jungle of concretebuildings that make up Waikiki is anoasis of verdant gardens and a shock-ingly pink building. The Royal Hawai-ian Hotel, affectionately called the“pink palace,” is known around theworld as a symbol of luxury. Since thefirst day it opened in 1927, the Royalhas been the place to stay for celebri-ties, including Clark Gable, ShirleyTemple, President Franklin Roosevelt,the Beatles, Kevin Costner, and others.Its location is one of the best onWaikiki Beach. See p. 91.

• Moana Surfrider Hotel, A WestinResort (& 800/325-3535 or 808/922-3111; www.moana-surfrider.com): Step back in time to OldHawaii at the grand Moana SurfriderHotel, built in 1901. Entry isthrough the original colonial porte-cochere, past the highly polishedwooden front porch, with whitewooden rocking chairs, and into theperfectly restored lobby with itsdetailed millwork and intricate plas-ter detailing on the ceiling. Timeseems to slow down here, tropicalflowers arranged in huge sprays areeverywhere, and everyone in thelobby seems to be smiling. At check-in, guests are greeted with a lei and aglass of fruit juice. This is a hotel notonly with class, but also with historiccharm. See p. 90.

• W Honolulu (& 800/782-9488 or808/922-1700; www.whotels.com):It’s expensive, but worth every penny,to be totally pampered in a low-key,elegantly casual hotel that caters tothe business traveler but takes excel-lent care of vacationers, too. The WHonolulu can be summed up in anutshell by the button on your roomphone that says “whatever/when-ever.” That’s what we call service! Ifyou’re craving peace and quiet—awayfrom the crowds of Waikiki but close

enough (about a 15-min. walk) toshops and restaurants—this is a per-fect location. See p. 104.

• Hilton Hawaiian Village BeachResort & Spa (& 800/HILTONS or808/949-4321; www.hiltonhawaiianvillage.com): Waikiki’s biggest resort,this place is so big it even has its ownpost office. Some 3,000 rooms arespread over 20 acres with tropical gar-dens, thundering waterfalls, exoticwildlife, award-winning restaurants,nightly entertainment, two brand-new state-of-the-art spas, 100 differ-ent shops, children’s programs,fabulous ocean activities, a secludedlagoon, three swimming pools,Hawaiian cultural activities, twominigolf courses, and Waikiki Beach.You could spend your entire vacationhere and never leave the property. Seep. 85.

• Kahala Hotel & Resort (& 800/367-2525 or 808/739-8888; www.kahalaresort.com): Since 1964, whenConrad Hilton first opened this hotelas a place for rest and relaxation, farfrom the crowds of Waikiki, theKahala has always been rated one ofHawaii’s premier hotels. A venerableWho’s Who of celebrities have stayedat the hotel, including every presi-dent since Richard Nixon, a host ofrock stars from the Rolling Stones tothe Beach Boys, and a range of actorsfrom John Wayne to Bette Midler.The Kahala is a completely up-to-date resort, with exotic Asiantouches, but it retains the grace andelegance of a softer, gentler time inthe islands. See p. 111.

• J. W. Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spaat Ko Olina Resort (& 800/626-4446 or 808/679-0079; www.ihilani.com): Located in the quiet of Oahu’swest coast, 25 minutes west of Hon-olulu International Airport—andworlds away from the tourist scene of

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Waikiki—the Ihilani (which means“heavenly splendor”) is the first hotelin the 640-acre Ko Olina Resort. Itfeatures a luxury spa and fitness cen-ter, plus championship tennis andgolf. The plush rooms are spacious,with huge lanais and lagoon or oceanviews from some 85% of the units.With luxury like this, who missesWaikiki? See p. 117.

• Turtle Bay Resort (Oahu; & 800/203-3650 or 808/293-6000; www.turtlebayresort.com): After a $35 mil-lion renovation, this once sterling

hotel is back. The resort is spectacular:an hour’s drive from Waikiki, buteons away in its country feeling. Sit-ting on 808 acres, Turtle Bay is loadedwith activities and 5 miles of shorelinewith secluded white-sand coves. Allthe rooms have great views, but theseparate beach cottages are positionedright on the ocean (the views alone areworth the price). The 42 bungalowshave been renovated (hardwoodfloors, poster beds with feather com-forters) and have their own check-inand private concierge. See p. 115.

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10 The Best Bargain AccommodationsIt is possible to stay on Oahu withouthaving to take out a second mortgage.Here are some options.

• The Breakers (& 800/426-0494or 808/923-3181; www.breakers-hawaii.com): Full of old-fashionedHawaiian aloha—and it’s only stepsfrom the sands of Waikiki—this two-story hotel has a friendly staff and aloyal following. Each of the tastefullydecorated, large rooms comes with alanai and a kitchenette, with pricesstarting at $125. See p. 96.

• Hawaiiana Hotel (& 800/367-5122or 808/923-3811; www.hawaiianahotelatwaikiki.com): “The spirit ofOld Hawaii”—The hotel’s slogan saysit all. This intimate low-rise hotel hasguest rooms that feature kitchenettes,two beds (a double and a single, or aqueen and a sofa bed), a view of thegardens, two swimming pools, and alocation a block from the beach.Rooms start at $125. See p 97.

• Royal Grove Hotel (& 808/923-7691; www.royalgrovehotel.com):This small, family-owned hotel is agreat bargain for frugal travelers. Whatyou get here is old-fashioned aloha incozy accommodations along the linesof Motel 6—basic and clean. And youcan’t do better for the price—this has

to be the bargain of Waikiki. For $47(about the same price a couple wouldpay to stay in a private room at thehostel in Waikiki), you get a room inthe older Mauka Wing, with a doublebed or two twins, plus a kitchenettewith refrigerator and stove. See p. 108.

• Ke Iki Beach Bungalows (& 866/638-8229 or 808/638-8829; www.keikibeach.com): Snuggled on a largelot with its own 200-foot stretch ofwhite-sand beach between two leg-endary North Shore surf spots(Waimea Bay and Banzai Pipeline),this collection of studio, one-, andtwo-bedroom cottages offers afford-able family bungalows with completekitchens—if you can live withoutbeing right on the ocean, the gardenunits start at $120. See p. 116.

• Rainbow Inn (& 808/488-7525):This private tropical garden studiohas panoramic views of Pearl Harbor,the entire south coast of Oahu, andthe Waianae and Koolau mountains.A large deck and full-size pool are justoutside your door. Rainbow Inn is ashort drive from all of Oahu’s attrac-tions, yet far enough away to provideyou with lots of peace and quiet. At$115 a night, this is one of Oahu’sbest deals. See p. 110.

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• Abhasa Waikiki Spa in the RoyalHawaiian Hotel (& 808/922-8200;www.abhasa.com): This contempo-rary spa, spread out over 7,000 squarefeet, concentrates on natural, organictreatments in a soothing atmosphere,where the smell of eucalyptus waftsthrough the air. Experience every-thing from the latest aromatherapy,to thalassotherapy (soaking in asweet-smelling hot bath), to shiatsumassages, but their specialty is a cold-laser, anti-aging treatment that prom-ises to give you a revitalized face injust 30 minutes. See p. 91.

• Ihilani Spa at the J. W. MarriottIhilani (& 800/626-4446; www.ihilani.com): An oasis by the sea, this35,000-square-foot facility, filledwith floor-to-ceiling windows over-looking lush tropical plants, is truly aspa in the literal sense of the word,meaning “health by water.” Themodern, multistoried spa combinesHawaiian products with traditionaltherapies to produce some of the bestwater treatments in the state. You’llalso find a fitness center, tenniscourts, and aerobic and stretchingclasses. See p. 117.

• Serenity Spa Hawaii (OutriggerReef on the Beach & 808/926-2882;www.serenityspahawaii.com): This5,000-square-foot spa has a veryextensive menu of treatments fromHawaiian lomilomi to hot lava rockto the very popular “Golden Touch”massage, which helps you get a glow-ing tan with applications of skin con-ditioners, tanning accelerators, andSPF sunscreen. See p. 94.

• Spa Suites at the Kahala (& 808/739-8938): The Kahala has taken theconcept of relaxation to a new levelwith former garden-view guest rooms

converted to individual spas, each witha glass-enclosed shower, private chang-ing area, infinity-edge deep soakingJacuzzi tub, and personal relaxationarea. No detail is overlooked, from thewarm foot bath when you arrive to therefreshing tea served on your personalenclosed garden lanai after your treat-ment. See p. 111.

• SpaHalekulani, Halekulani Hotel,Waikiki (& 808/923-2311; www.halekulani.com): Focusing on thehealing traditions of the Pacificislands—Samoa, Tonga, and Tahiti, aswell as Hawaii—this boutique oasis inWaikiki’s most luxurious hotel definespampered comfort in a nurturing set-ting designed to relax even the mosttense. From the time you step into theelegantly appointed, intimate spa tothe last whiff of fragrant maile, theirsignature scent, this is truly a “heav-enly” experience. Try somethingunique, like the Polynesian Nonu, aSamoan-inspired massage using stonesand the nonu plant, or the Ton TonAmma, a Japanese amma massagewith ton-ton pounders. See p. 89.

• Turtle Bay Resort (& 800/203-3650;www.turtlebayresort.com): This Zen-like spa positioned on the ground floorfacing the ocean has six treatmentrooms, a meditation waiting area, anoutdoor workout space, and a com-plete fitness center and private elevatorto rooms on the second floor that arereserved for guests getting spa treat-ments. For the ultimate in massages,book the oceanside cabana and listento the gentle lull of the waves as theyroll into the North Shore. See p. 115.

• Waikiki Plantation Spa, OutriggerWaikiki on the Beach (& 808/926-2880; www.waikikiplantationspa.com): Located in the penthouse of

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11 The Best Resort Spas

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Pampering in Paradise

Spa-goers in Hawaii look for a sense of place, steeped in the culture. Theywant to hear the sound of the ocean, smell the salt air, and feel the caressof the warm breeze. They want to experience Hawaiian products and traditional treatments that can only be found in the islands. And now they can.

With so much to offer, the spas of Hawaii, once nearly exclusively patron-ized by women, are now attracting more male clients. Special massages areoffered for children and pregnant women, and some spas have programs tonurture and relax brides on their big day.

Today’s Hawaiian spas offer a wide diversity of treatments. Forget plain,ordinary massages—now you can try Hawaiian lomilomi, Swedish, aro-matherapy (with sweet-smelling oils), craniosacral (massaging the head),shiatsu (no oil, just deep thumb pressure on acupuncture points), Thai(another oil-less massage involving stretching), and hot stone (with heated,and sometimes cold, rocks). There are even side-by-side massages for cou-ples. The truly decadent might try a duo massage—not one, but two mas-sage therapists working on you at once.

Massages are just the beginning. Body treatments, for the entire body orfor just the face, involve a variety of herbal wraps, masks, or scrubs using arange of ingredients from seaweed to salt to mud, with or without accom-panying aromatherapy, lights, and music.

After you have been rubbed and scrubbed, most spas offer an array ofwater treatments—a sort of hydromassage in a tub with jets and an assort-ment of colored crystals, oils, and scents.

Those are just the traditional treatments. Most spas also offer a range ofalternative health care procedures such as acupuncture and chiropractic,and other exotic treatments such as ayurvedic and siddha from India or reikifrom Japan.

Once your body has been pampered, spas also offer a range of fitnessfacilities (weight-training equipment, racquetball, tennis, golf) and classes(yoga, aerobics, step, spinning, stretch, tai chi, kickboxing, aquacize). Sev-eral even offer adventure fitness packages (from bicycling to snorkeling).For the nonadventurous, most spas have salons, dedicated to hair- and nail-care and makeup.

If all this sounds a bit overwhelming, not to worry, all the spas in Hawaiihave individual consultants who will help design an appropriate treatmentprogram to fit your individual needs.

Of course, all this pampering doesn’t come cheap. But to banish your ten-sion and stress? The expense may be worth it. Massages are generally $100to $135 for 50 minutes and $145 to $180 for 80 minutes; body treatmentsare in the $100 to $180 range; and alternative health-care treatments canbe as high as $150 to $220.

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the Outrigger on the Beach hotel andoverlooking the heart of Waikiki isthis boutique spa with a “island-style”menu of treatments from massages tofacials to body wraps and polishes, all

using the spa’s own private label oflotions and oils. An express elevatorzips you up to the 17th floor, where alanai allows you to relax in totalserenity. See p. 90.

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12 The Best Restaurants

• Alan Wong’s Restaurant (& 808/949-2526): One of Hawaii’s premierechefs, Alan Wong specializes inabsolutely the best Pacific Rim cuisine.His restaurant is always packed,although the ambience is limited andit’s located in a shopping mall in thesuburbs—but for serious foodies this isheaven. Masterpieces at this shrine ofHawaii regional cuisine: warm Califor-nia rolls made with salmon roe, wasabi,and Kona lobster instead of rice; luaulumpia with butterfish and kalua pig;and ginger-crusted fresh onaga. Opihishooters and day-boat scallops in sea-son are a must, while nori-wrappedtempura ahi is a perennial favorite. Themenu changes daily, but the flavorsnever lose their sizzle. See p. 146.

• Cassis Honolulu (& 808/545-8100;www.cassishonolulu.com): In 2007,Hawaii’s top chef, George Mavro,opened this casual bistro that featuresmany of the island-influenced dishesthat he no longer serves at his upscaleChef Mavro Restaurant (see below)since he changes that menu every 3months. The trendy eatery (packed atlunch) also has a very hip wine bar(featuring the wine pairings of theday). See p. 134.

• Chef Mavro Restaurant (& 808/944-4714): Honolulu is abuzz overthe wine pairings and elegant cuisineof George Mavrothalassitis, the culi-nary wizard from Provence whoturned La Mer (at the Halekulani)and Seasons (at the Four SeasonsResort Wailea) into temples of finedining. He brought his award-winning

signature dishes with him and con-tinues to prove his ingenuity withdazzling a la carte and prix-fixemenus. See p. 146.

• Kaka’ako Kitchen (& 808/596-7488): If you’re in the market for aquick-and-healthy breakfast, lunch,or dinner at budget prices, here’s theplace. It’s not fancy; in fact, the trade-mark Styrofoam plates, warehouseambience, and home-style cookingare the hallmarks of this local favoritein the Ward Centre. The menu,which changes every 3 to 4 months,includes seared ahi sandwiches withtobiko (flying-fish roe) aioli for lunch;and a signature charbroiled ahi steak,beef stew, five-spice shoyu chicken,the very popular meatloaf, and othermulti-ethnic entrees for dinner. Seep. 138.

• La Mer (& 808/923-2311): This is Hawaii’s premier splurge restau-rant, the oceanfront bastion of haute cuisine, a romantic, elegant, andexpensive place where people dressup—not to be seen, but to match theambience and food. It’s an open-sided room with views of DiamondHead and the sound of trade windsrustling the nearby coconut fronds.Award-winning chef Yves Garniermelds classical French influences withisland-fresh ingredients. See p. 122.

• Ola at Turtle Bay Resort (& 808/293-0801; www.turtlebayresort.com):Even if you’re staying in Waikiki, plana day at the beach on the North Shoreand eat here for dinner. You will notregret it. First, the location—literally

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on the sandy beach next door to theTurtle Bay Resort. Second, the restau-rant is an open-air beach pavilion. Butthe best part is . . . the food! The menuis filled with creative selections (the ahiand lobster poke served with a wontonspoon) and some of the best food youwill eat in Hawaii. See p. 155.

• Olive Tree Cafe (& 808/737-0303):This temple of Greek and Mediter-ranean delights is the quintessentialneighborhood magnet—casual, bus-tling, and consistently great. OwnerSavas Mojarrad has a following offoodies, hipsters, artists, and all man-ner of loyalists who appreciate hisintegrity and generosity. Standardsare always high, prices reasonable, thedishes fresh and homemade. Bringyour own wine and sit down to freshfish souvlakia, excellent marinatedmussels, and sheep’s cheese spanako-pita. Mojarrad even makes the yogurtfor his famous yogurt-mint-cucum-ber sauce, the souvlakia’s ticket toimmortality. Don’t miss the chickensaffron, a Tuesday special. See p. 152.

• The Pineapple Room (& 808/945-6573): Yes, it’s in a department store,but it’s Alan Wong, a culinary icon.The food is terrific, particularly any-thing with ahi (for example, the ahimeatloaf ). The room features anopen kitchen with a lava-rock walland abundant natural light, but these are details in a room where food is king. The menu changes reg-ularly, but keep an eye out for theginger scallion shrimp scampi, nori-wrapped tempura salmon, andsuperb gazpacho made of yellow andred Waimea tomatoes. See p. 135.

• Roy’s Restaurant (& 808/396-7697): Good food still reigns at thisbusy, noisy flagship Hawaii Kai din-ing room with the trademark openkitchen. Roy Yamaguchi’s deft waywith local ingredients, nostalgic eth-nic preparations, and fresh fish makeshis menu, which changes daily, anovel experience every time. Yam-aguchi’s special dinners with vintnersare a Honolulu staple. See p. 152.

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13 The Best ShoppingProducts of Hawaii now merit their ownfestivals and trade shows throughout theyear, and MADE IN HAWAII is a label to betouted. Here are a few places to scoresome finds.

• Academy Shop (in the HonoluluAcademy of Arts; & 808/523-8703):The recent expansion of the Hon-olulu Academy of Arts made a goodthing even better. You’ll find a stun-ning selection of art books, stationery,jewelry, basketry, beadwork, ikats,saris, ethnic fabrics, fiber vessels,accessories, and contemporary giftitems representing the art and crafttraditions of the world. See p. 244.

• Avanti Fashion (& 808/924-1668and 808/922-2828): In authentic

prints from the 1930s and ’40s repro-duced on silk, Avanti aloha shirts andsportswear elevate tropical garb fromhigh kitsch to high chic. Casual, com-fortable, easily cared for, and light as acloud, the silks look vintage but cost afraction of collectibles’ prices. Thenostalgic treasures are available inretail stores statewide, but the bestselection is in Waikiki. See p. 235.

• Bailey’s Antiques & Aloha Shirts(& 808/734-7628): Bailey’s has oneof the largest vintage aloha-shirt col-lections in Honolulu, with pricesranging from inexpensive to sky-high.Old Levi’s jeans, mandarin jackets,vintage vases, household items,shawls, purses, and an eye-popping

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assortment of bark-cloth fabrics (thereal thing, not repros) are among themementos in this monumental collec-tion. See p. 236.

• Contemporary Museum Gift Shop(& 808/523-3447): This gets ourvote as the most beautiful setting fora gift shop, and its contents are abonus: extraordinary art-relatedbooks, avant-garde jewelry, cards andstationery, home accessories, and giftitems made by artists from Hawaiiand across the country. Only the bestis sold here. See p. 244.

• Honolulu Chocolate Co. (& 808/591-2997): Life’s greatest pleasures aredispensed here with abandon: expen-sive gourmet chocolates made in Hon-olulu, Italian and Hawaiian biscotti,boulder-size chocolate “turtles,” truf-fles, chocolate-covered coffee beans,and jumbo apricots in white and darkchocolate, to name a few. See p. 239.

• Mana Hawaii (& 808/923-2220):Authentically experience Hawaiianculture in the heart of Waikiki, wherefive successful Native Hawaiian part-ners have combined their talents intoone mega-culture shop. You will findeverything from Hawaiian books toHawaiian-made gifts, clothing, jewelry,

and art, even hula implements andukuleles, plus healing Hawaiian lotionsand oils. See p. 245.

• Native Books & Beautiful Things(& 808/596-8885): Hawaii is thecontent and context in this shop ofbooks, crafts, and gift items made byisland artists and crafters. Musicalinstruments, calabashes, jewelry, leis,books, fabrics, clothing, home acces-sories, jams and jellies—they’re allhigh quality and made in Hawaii—acelebration of Hawaiiana. See p. 245.

• Silver Moon Emporium (& 808/637-7710): This is an island-widephenomenon, filled with the terrificfinds of owner Lucie Talbot-Holu,who has a gift for discovering fashiontreasures. Exquisite clothing andhandbags, reasonably priced footwear,hats, jewelry, scarves, and a full gamutof other treasures pepper the attractiveboutique. See p. 251.

• Zuke’s Magic & Jokes (& 808/847-7788): You don’t have to beHarry Potter to enter here, but youmay feel like him. Open only on Sat-urday, amateur and professionalmagicians stream into this magicstore to get the latest “tricks” andlearn the art of magic. See p. 245.

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14 The Best Spots for Sunset Cocktails• Sunset Lanai (in the New Otani

Kaimana Beach Hotel; & 808/923-1555): The hau tree shaded RobertLouis Stevenson as he wrote poems toPrincess Kaiulani. Today it frames theocean view from the Sunset Lanai,next to the Hau Tree Lanai restau-rant. Sunset Lanai is the favoritewatering hole of Diamond Head–area beachgoers who love Sans SouciBeach, the ocean view, the mai taisand sashimi platters, and the livemusic during weekend sunset hours.See p. 105.

• House Without a Key (in the Hale-kulani; & 808/923-2311): Oahu’squintessential sunset oasis claims sev-eral unbeatable elements: It’s outdoorson the ocean, with a view of Dia-mond Head, and it offers great hulaand steel guitar music—and one ofthe best mai tais on the island. Youknow it’s special when even jadedHonoluluans declare it their favoritespot for send-offs, reunions, and gor-geous sunsets. See p. 253.

• Mai Tai Bar (in the Royal HawaiianHotel; & 808/923-7311): Perched a

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few feet from the sand, this open-airbar boasts sweeping views of theSouth Shore and Waianae Mountainsand one of the most pleasing views ofWaikiki Beach. Surfers and paddlersride the waves while the light turnsgolden and crowns Diamond Headwith a halo. Sip a mighty mai taiwhile Carmen and Keith Haugen ser-enade you. See p. 253.

• Duke’s Canoe Club (in the OutriggerWaikiki Hotel; & 808/923-0711):It’s crowded at sunset, but who canresist listening to the top Hawaiianmusicians in this upbeat atmosphere a

few feet from the sands of Waikiki?Come in from the beach or from the street—it’s always a party atDuke’s. Entertainment here is tops,and it reaches a crescendo at sunset.See p. 256.

• Jameson’s by the Sea (& 808/637-4336): The mai tais here are dubbedthe best in Surf City, and the view,although not perfect, doesn’t hurteither. Across the street from the har-bor, this open-air roadside oasis is ahappy stop for North Shore wavewatchers and sunset-savvy sightseers.See p. 154.

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15 The Best Oahu Websites• Hawaii Visitors & Convention

Bureau (www.gohawaii.com): Anexcellent, all-around guide to activi-ties, tours, lodging, and events, plus ahuge section on weddings and honey-moons. But keep in mind that onlymembers of the HVCB are listed.

• Planet Hawaii (www.planet-hawaii.com): Click on “Island” for anisland-by-island guide to activities,lodging, shopping, culture, the surfreport, weather, and more. Mostly,you’ll find short listings with links tocompanies’ own websites. Click on“Hawaiian Eye” for live images fromaround the islands.

• Internet Hawaii Radio (www.hotspots.hawaii.com): A great wayto get into the mood, this eclectic sitefeatures great Hawaiian music. Youcan order CDs and also purchase arespectable assortment of Hawaiianhistorical and cultural books.

• Visit Oahu (www.visit-oahu.com):An extensive guide to activities, dining,lodging, parks, shopping, and more,from the Oahu chapter of the HawaiiVisitors and Convention Bureau.

• The Hawaiian Language Website(http://hawaiianlanguage.com):

This fabulous site not only has easylessons on learning the Hawaiian lan-guage, but also a great cultural calen-dar, links to other Hawaiiana websites,a section on the hula, and lyrics andtranslations to Hawaiian songs.

• The Pukas in Hawaii: The ShortList to Hawaii Web Sites (www.hawaiiradiotv.com/puka.html): Awonderful collection of links to allkinds of Hawaii websites, from radiostations playing Hawaiian music tothe daily newspaper to where to findthe cheapest gas.

• Hawaii State Vacation Planner(www.hshawaii.com): Helps youplan your trip using the advertiserssupporting this private (not govern-ment) site.

• State of Hawaii (www.hawaii.gov):Features information regarding parks,experiences, and activities from hikingand golf to theater, sports, and culture.

• City and County of Honolulu(www.co.honolulu.hi.us): Every-thing you may want to know from thecounty government including what tosee and do, camping permits, parkinformation, historical and cultureinformation, beach safety and more.

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