The art of Peruvian cuisine

Well,hereweareagain!!!Elevenyears laterPeruvianCuisine iscatchingonavTomysurprise,andourFoundation’sgreaterwell-being,“TheArtofPeruvianCuisine”(BookI)isgoingstrongerthanever!!Weareabouttoprintvolumenumber85,000ofthatbook,asweheadintotheprintingofthefirst5,000copiesofBookII.

Today,onlyadecadeaftermyinvitationtovisitPerufora“gastronomictour”wasconsideredoutlandish,wehavehundredsof touristsaweekwhoarrive inLima todo just that.Thereare tours toLima’smanywonderfulrestaurants,andtherearealsovisitorswhospendseveraldaysgoingtothemarketandcookingtheirmealsunderthesupervisionandguidanceofPeruvianChefs.

Iamamazedatwhathashappened.Myamazementhasimpelledmetoputtogetherthisvolume,BookII,inordertosharewithyouwhathasgoneoninthesepastelevenyears.

Peruvian Cuisine is daily more surprising and evolved. This sophistication increasingly includes thetechniquesand ingredientsofotherareas–TheAndes,TheAmazon,etc.– thatwerenotablyabsent fromBookI.

Justasinterestingtomeisthefactthatofover20chefsinthisbook,only6arefoundinBookI.Infact,quite a fewof the newChefswere in culinary schools or even attending high schoolwhen “TheArt ofPeruvianCuisineI”cameout inMarchof2000.Everyoneof them, though,has“grownup”,as itwere,intimatelyfamiliarwithBookI.

Along with all this, we have the great satisfaction that Book I has given our Foundation.When it hitbookshelvesin2000,wehad140studentsin3schools.Today,40teachersrunning12centershavegivenremedialhelptoover1600studentsand800oftheirparentsin2010alone…atruewin-winsituation.

AbouttheAuthor:

TonyCuster, creator, editor and publisher of ‘TheArt of PeruvianCuisine’ is a graduate ofHarvard inEconomicswithanMBAfromtheHarvardBusinessSchool.Apublishedchildren’sbookauthor,hisloveof cooking and good eating has led him to try to help dissipate the anonymity that has long shroudedPeruviancuisine.

In1998TonyCustercreated‘AprendamosJuntos’,aprogramthatinstallsspecialclassroomswithfulltimepsychologists/therapistswhogiveonthespotremedialhelptochildrenwithlearningdisabilitiesinLima’s

poorest schools. All of the proceeds from the sale of this book will go to the Custer Foundation’s‘AprendamosJuntos’program.

EditedbyFundaciónFelipeAntonioCuster

ContentsPrefacePrologueIntroductionAcknowledgementsMakingthisBookHistoryIngredientsPisco

Recipes

AperitifsChilcanodeanísGingeraleandPiscohighballwithahintofaniseChilcanodePiscoGingeraleandPiscohighballJugodegranadillaymandarinaTangerineandgranadillajuiceMelónPiscoMelonPiscoPiscopunchPisco,keylimeandpineappleDeconstructedPiscosourPiscosouraccompaniedbysugarcane,sweetlimesandmeringueSorbetdecamucamuymorasdeestaciónalmostoverdeGreenPiscomust,mulberriesandcamucamusorbetTinidemaízmoradoPurplecornTiniTrampositoPassionfruitandhuacatayhighballTunaPiscoPricklypearfruitPiscoTunchePisco,keylime,cranberry,coconaandFernetBrancahighballTunchedeaguaymantoAguaymanto(capegooseberry)Tunche

Horsd’oeuvres&AppetizersAjílimoconfitado,atúnymilhojasdequesodecabraycocaAjílimoconfit,freshtunaandgoatcheeseincrunchylayersAlbóndigasdelangostinosensalsaligeradenaranjasShrimpballsinlightorangesauceAlmejadelbigoteClams,mushrooms,ajílimoandkernelsoffreshcornonthehalfshellAtúnCarpaccioToshi-StyleFreshtunacarpacciomarinatedinsakevinegarwithTiger’sMilk,Japanessespices,turnipsproutsAtúnTataki,escabechedeyacónytorrijadecoca,shotdearazáCubesofsearedtuna,spicycookedonionsauce,cocafritterandTiger’sMilkButifarraRomanaRoastporksandwichonsourdoughbreadCarpacciodeollucoFinelyslicedalpacahamonollucowithcharquisauceConchasatómicasGrilledscallopswithparmesancheese,basilandgarlicCrocanteamazónicoCrunchyrollsofdeep-friedwantonstuffedwithsmokeddriedcecina,bellacobananaandDamboCheeseservedwithcoconaandcharapitaajísaucePomponesdemascarponeCrunchyphyllodoughstripsfilledwithscallopsandmascarponecheesePulpoagridulceSweetandsouroctopusRollosdetacutacuTacutacurollswrappedinserranohamservedwithasweetmisodippingsauceSandwichdechicharrónzafadoCrispporkchicharrónanddeep-friedshrimprollwithHuancaínasaucesSandwichesdepejerreyCrunchyfriedsilversideandsalsacriollaandmayonnaiserollsTríodeabrebocas:cubosdeatúnbruléeconjugodecoconaytobikoSugar-searedfreshtunacubesservedinshotglasswithjuiceandflyingfishcaviarTríodeabrebocas:barquillosconconchaschili-mayoCornettesfilledwithrawscallopsandspicyajíamarillomayonnaiseTríodeabrebocas:langostinoscocolicheCaramelizedshrimpcoatedwithpuffedrice,servedwithwasabifoam

FirstcoursesAjíamarilloescarchadoyrabodevaca,chontayarúgulaCrystallizedajíamarillo,oxtail,heartofpalmwitharuguladressingCapchidesetasycamarónSautéedoystermushroomsandcrayfishtailsserved

withpotatoesandfavabeansinaspicycheesesauceCausa–CausaanticucheraSquidandseabassbrochetteswithsweetpotatoandyellowpotatocausa–CausaChiclayanaCausawithyuca,sweetpotato,corn,banana,boiledeggandcrayfishwithaspicyescavechesauce–CausadepallaresLimabeancausawithlimabean,cheeseandonionsaladwithcharcoalgrilledoctopusandsmokedtuna–CausadepapamoradaVolcanoesofpurplepotatocausa,seaurchinand

scallopcevicheandseaurchinsauceCeviche–CevichealabrasadePiruchoylangostasdePuertoEténGrilledfishandlobsterceviche–CevichechinoPeruviangruntandpickledChinesevegetableceviche–CevicheconchicharróndecalamarPacificseabasscevichetoppedwithringsofcrispysquid–CevicheCostaneradelenguadoypulpoFlounderandoctopuscevichewithJapanesespices–CevichedelenguadoalacremadeajílimoFlounder,scallopandcrabmeatcevichewithacreamyajílimosauce–Cevichegalácticodelenguado,conchasseñoritasycangrejoencremadeerizoFlounder,scallopandcrabmeatcevicheincreamyseaurchintigress’smilkChicharróndecamaronesCrispycrayfishchicharrónwithchupemayonnaiseonabaseoffriedyucaandsweetpotato,salsacriollaConchamacaScallopswithmaca,avocado,flyingfishcaviar,specialtartarsauce,Tiger’sMilk,kelpConchasdeCasmaconsalsadewasabiybrotesdecaviarScallopsinTiger’sMilkwithwasabisauceConchasensalsadeperejilconkushuroymacaFreshscallops,Japanesecucumber,Kushuru,macaandsmoked,driedseaweedwithparsleyTiger’sMilkConchitasenmantequilladelimónScallopsinkeylimebuttersauceCrujientedechicharrónCrispyslicesofporkchicharrónonabaseoffriedsweetpotatoandsweetpotatopuréecoveredinHuancaínasauceandsalsacriollaEmpanadasMeatpiesfilledwithstir-friedsirloinsteak,tenderloinstewandchickenincreamyyellowajísauceEnsaladadespaghettiintegralesalocopaylangostinosWholewheatspaghettisaladwithOcopaandshrimpsauceHuevopochadoconcremosodePadanoPoachedeggwithacreamyGranPadanocheesesauceMartinidecebicheconespumadeajíamarilloypiscomostoverdeSquidandoctopusinacreamyrocotoandgreenmustPiscosaucewithahotajíamarillofoamMusciamedeatúnFineslicesoftunamusciameontopofabaseofslicesofavocadoandtomatoPejerreyahumado,cremadecilantro,choclofritoycamotedulceSmokedsilversidefilletsdippedinTiger’sMilkandservedwithkernelsofcornandglazedsweetpotatoesPulpoalcarbónmorado,emulsióndepalta,pacchoy,emulsióndeolivoygremolataCharcoalcookedoctopusandpacchoiwithaparsley,garlic,anchovyandcapersauceRocotosrellenosdemorcillaRocotosstuffedwithbloodsausageorblackpuddingwithcookedyellowpotatoestoppedwitha

spicyajíandwhitewinesauceRolls–BerenjakaoJapaneseeggplantswithpork,crayfishtailandDonkumushroomstuffingcoveredwithoystersauceandsesameoil–CausakiFriedcrayfishtails,creamcheeseandavocadoonayellowpotatocausarollwithHuancaínaandspicyajíamarilloandonionsauces–ConchitasalaparmesanarollFuraishrimptailandavocadomakiwithscallopswithParmesancheeseaugratin–MakiacevichadoFriedshrimptails,creamcheeseandavocadomakiwithceviche-styleTiger’sMilksauce–RollitosdepejerreyconcausadeyucaysalsaacevichadaconaromasdeculantroDeep-friedsilversideandyucacausarollswithcilantro

andTiger’sMilksauceandsalsacriollaTiradito–Tiraditodeconchas,tártardeconchas,polvodecoral,papaHuamantangaentuboconfitada,lechedetigreamarilloSlicesoffreshscallopswithaTiger’sMilksauce,powderedscallopcoral,tartarsauceandpotatocylindersconfit–TiraditodemaracuyáSlicesoffreshsalmonwithapassionfruitsauceandHondashiandblackpepperPichicataTubérculos,bulbosyraícesVegetariandishrepresentingthecycleofnature:earth,roots,greenleavesandflowerswithapiquantgarlicfoamandbeetgel

MainDishesArrocesArroztapadodecangrejoMoldedricefilledwithstonecrabmeatArrozverdeconcurryyconchasGreenricewithcurryandscallopsAtúncontamarindoycocoFreshtunawithChinesevegetablesservedin

tamarindsaucewithcoconutfoam,winterfriedriceCabritoorgánicodelafamiliaIgredaOrganicgiblet-stuffedkidshouldercookedinchichadejora,lochepurée,potatocylindersconfit,secosauceandwatercresssaladCaldodeGallinaClassicrichheninbrothwithanOrientaltouchandsoft-boiledeggCamaronesconsaboresdechupeCrayfishinachowdersauce,milk-skincannelloneCanilladecorderococidaabajatemperaturaconcarapulcraamaneraderisottoSlow-cookedlambshankinredwinereductionwithrisotto-stylecarapulcraCarrilleradeterneraestofadaunanocheSlow-cookedvealcheeksinredwinereductionthickenedwithgroundfreshcornandsquashChitaescamosaenjardíndechocloyjugodeporcónCrispyPeruvianGruntwithpuréedcornandPorcónmushroomsandhighlandAndeancheeseCochinilloconnaranjitaschinasCrispyslow-cookedsucklingpig,kumquatsinheavysyrup,blackbeantacutacu,friedbanana,friedeggandspicyonionsauceCorvinaencostradequinuarojaPacificseabassinaredquinoacrust,artichokeheartandasparagustips,balsamicreductionCorvinaKapallaqGrilledPacificseabassandshrimpwithajíamarillosauce,HuamantangapotatopuréeCostillardecabritodelechealabrasaypurédeloche196Milk-fedkidribscookedinwineonlochesquashpuréeCuycrocanteCrunchyguineapigconfit,chickpeatamaleswithAmazonianchorizo,criollosaucewithtamarindFettuccinialaHuancaínaconlomoysujuguitoSautéedtenderloinandpanjuicesservedonfettucciniwithHuaincaínasauceGnocchidepapaamarillaconcauchedequesoycamaronesGnocchi,meltedfreshcheesesaucewithvegetablesandhuacatayservedwithcrayfishInchicapidepaicheFilletofpaicheinhenstockflavoredwithjerky,peanutandsachaculatro,tapocagarnishJuanedepatoFromtherainforest,ricetamalwithdebonedducklegsteamedinleavesLasañadelomosaltadoPrize-winningdishatMistura2010,lasagnamadewithsautéedtenderloinandHuancaínasauceLomosaltadodepechugadepatocontacutacuStir-friedduckbreastinasauceofonion,tomatoandsoysaucewithbeanandricetacutacupattiesMeroalcarbónCharcoalgrilledgrouper,hulledwheatrisotto,LimoncellofoamPiernadepatocrocanteCrisp-skinnedducklegonricewithblackandwhitebeans,spicycriolloradishrelishPigytrufaSucklingpigwithCulatellodiZibelloham;mushroom,creamcheeseandblacktruffle-stuffednativepotatoes,highlandAndeanherbsPolloalabrasaSpit-roastedchickenmarinatedinpassionfruit,pineappleandblackbeerPollobebépekinésBabychickeninNikkeisauce,Japanesepickledturnip,ginger,scallions,vegetarianfriedricePulpobrasa,purédehabas,canelóndepiquilloyquesodecabraCharcoalgrilledoctopus,favabeanpurée,piquillopepperandgoatcheesecannelloniRaviolCamanádeCamarónenJugodeChupeCrayfish,Parmesanandfavabeanpuréefilledravioliwithcrayfish,friedquaileggsinchowdersauceRisottocriolloSautéedtenderloinonrisottoTacutacualanorteñaconsecodelangostinosRiceandbeanpattiesnorthernstylewithshrimpinacilantrosecosauce.TacutacudepepiánconsaltadodecamarónFreshgroundcornandricepattywithcrayfishincreamysauce

SideDishesArrozalaperuanaPeruvianwhitericeFrijolguisado&PurédepallaresCanarybeancasserole&Largedriedwhitelimabean(butterbean)purée

BasicRecipesAceitedeachioteAchioteoilArrozconlecheRicepudding,servedwithportwinemeringueMantequilladecoraldecamarónCrayfishcoralbutterCaldodecamarónCrayfishstockFondooscuroDarkmeatstockFumetdepescadoFishstockManjarblancoManjarblancoPapasalhiloodeotrostubérculosFriedshoestringpotatoesorothertubersPurédeajoGarlicpuréeConfitdeajoGarlicconfitSuspirodelimeñaSuspirodelimeñaLechedetigreTiger’sMilkLechedetigrealestiloToshiToshi-styleTiger’sMilkArrozsushialestiloToshiToshi-stylesushirice

CondimentsandSaucesAderezosSeasonings:–PastadeajíamarilloAjíamarillopaste–Pastasdeajímirasol&ajípancaDriedajímirasol&ajípanca–SalsamadreMotherofsaucesSalsasSauces:–HuacatayHuacataysauce–JalpahuaicaSpicyrocotoandtomatosauce–MayonesadeajíSpicyajíamarillomayonnaise–Mayonesa

derocotoSpicyrocotomayonnaise–SalsaalaHuancaínaSpicyajíamarilloandfreshwhitecheesesauce–SalsacriollaCriollosauce–SalsacrudaderocotoFreshrocotosalsa–SalsadeajíycebollachinaSpicyajíamarilloandscallionsauceAderezosdeanticuchosMarinadesforbrochettes

DessertsAlfajoresdemielDelicatecookiesfilledwiththicktreaclefillingBorrachitodeyucaalpiscoconsorbetedemaracuyáIndividualyucacakeswithaPiscospicesauceaccompaniedbypassionfruiticecreamCanutoscrocantesdequinuarellenosconmanjardelúcumaCrunchyquinoacanutosfilledwithlúcumamanjarblancoaccompaniedbychocolatesauce,strawberriesandfreshaguaymantosChocolateNaranjillo,chirimoya-limon,piscoyrocotoChirimoyaicecreamwithchocolatesauce,PiscogelatinandrocotonougatCocadaCoconutcookiewithcoconutmanjarblancosauce“Elclásico”Mazamorramorada/ArrozconlechePurplecornsemi-transparentpuddingwithdriedfruitsFresasalmaízmoradoStrawberriesinpurplecornsauce,cornandcoconuticecream,corncake,caramelizedparchedcornKinkonamiestiloLayersofpuffpastry,manjarblancoandapricotjamLimóndeconventoconrecuerdosdepiedelimóncrustKeylimesstuffedwithlemonpiefilling,manjarblancoandalmondfoamMamey-quesoCholembert,toquesdemostazaPeruviangoatmilkCholombertcheese,mameyinheavysyrup,oracheleaves,mollegelatinMilhojasdechocolatecrocanteLayeredchocolatenougatine,bananaslices,manjarblancoicecream,pistachiopralineSuspirodeLimeñadeChirimoyaRichcaramelandchirimoya(custardapple)puddingwithportwinemeringueSuspirodeLimeñadeChocolateRichcaramelandchocolatepuddingwithportwinemeringueSuspirodeLimeñadeLúcumaRichcaramelandlúcumapuddingwithportwinemeringueTortatrufadechocolateylúcumaChocolatecakewithlayersoflúcumamousseandchocolatemoussewithchocolatewhippedcreamTiendasespecializadasenproductoslatinoamericanosSouthamericanspecialtyfoodstoresoringredientssourcesAlgunosrestaurantesenLimadecomidacriollayeuropeaSomeofLima’sfinestcriolloandeuropeaneatingAlgunosrestaurantesenelextranjerodeloschefincluidosenestaobraSomeofthesamechefs’restaurantsabroadBibliografíaBibliography

Preface

byMoisésNaím

Isthereanythingmorespecificallylocalthanthemannerinwhichacountry’soracity’sinhabitantscookachicken or a fish? Or the way in which they season their soup? No. And yet, is there anything more“globalized”thanfood?Again,no.

Infact,fromthetimeMarcoPolo“globalized”ChinesenoodlesandsetthestageforItaly’ssignaturedish,orsincesausagestypicalofFrankfurtinGermanytransmutedinternationallyintotheubiquitous“hotdog”,tracingthedistributionofdishesaroundtheworldhasallowedustoseeglobalization’struefrontiers.

Throughout centuries, cuisines have developed inmuch the sameway as the habits and customs ofnations and even as their languages and dialects have. So it is that in New Guinea, until recently, theinhabitants of one valley had great difficulty in communicating verbally with their neighbors in nearbyvalleys. Inmuch the sameway,aconnoisseurofFrenchcuisinecouldgeographically“locate”adishbytastingit,orsimplybylookingatit.Yet,inspiteofthistightly-knitregionalism,todaywearefacedbyarevolutionthathasworldcuisineatitsforefrontandisopeningthousandsofthemostsurprisingdoors.

Globalization is often associated with economics, politics or international power struggles. Mobiletelephoning, the internet, great ships carrying containers of the most varied merchandise, and globalfinancierswhocanmovebillionsacross theplanetwitha fewsimple toucheson theirkeyboards,areallalsoemblematicof this trend.So, too,areMcDonald’sgoldenarches.Theubiquitousrestaurantsof thischainofhamburgereateries(servingtheflattenedmeatballsoriginallyfromHamburg,Germany)bringwiththem a verymarkedUS culturalmessage and have become a symbol of globalization - and thus also apreferredtargetforthestonesandothermissilesofmarchersprotestingglobalization.

Oneofthemostcommonchargesleveledagainstglobalizationisthatitisonlyonemoretrickusedbytheworld’s richerandmorepowerfulnations to impose theiragendasand theircultureon therestof theworld. And certainly, seen from this point of view, McDonald’s is clear evidence of this “culturalimperialism”.Theotheroneis,ofcourse,CocaCola.Inotherwords,foodanddrink…

The perspective of these critics is that the US exports –or imposes-its consumption and nutritionparameterson therestof theworld,and that therestofushavenoalternativebut toadopt these foreignfeedinghabits.

Theremaybesometruthinthis.Some.Butnotasmuchasmayseem.ThereisnodoubtthattheUSexertsapowerfulculturalinfluenceontherestoftheworld.Alsoaboutwhatandhowweeat.Butthereisnodoubt,either,thatglobalizationmakesiteasierforallculturalinfluencestomigratefollowingthemostvariedandsurprisingroutes.Andnotall thesemigrations followthe itineraries that thecriticsanticipate.It’samistaketoassumethatculturalinfluencestravelonlyfromtheUSAoutward.Sometimesit’stheotherwayaround.

Only two or three decades ago no onewould have imagined baseball fans at their favorite stadiumeatingrawfishrolledupinriceanddriedseaweed.Whatrecentlywasunimaginableistodaycommonplace.Today, food concessions at ballparks in Dallas and Chicago sell the same sushi we find in Recife orReykjavík,KabulorKiev.Sushi’sglobalizationisaperfectexampleofhowaverylocalformofcuisinehasbecomeglobal.

Wecansay thesamefor tacos, falafeland,ofcourse, the inevitableChineseor Italian restaurants ineverycityonemayvisitonplanetEarth.

Whathasbeenmissing‘tilnowonthislistof“globalizedfoods”isPeruvianCuisine–withoutdoubtthebestinthishemisphereandoneofthebestintheworld.

Thereasonsfortherelative“invisibility”ofPeruvianCuisinearemanyandvaried.Whencuisinemustshareheadlineincheswithterrorismandhyperinflation,thecuisineislikelytobetheloser.

Andwhenagovernmentadoptsmeasures that inhibitor limit the interactionof itspeoplewithothernations through trade, telecommunications, investments, international cooperation or tourism, thetransmissionofthatcountry’sculture–especiallycuisine–islikelytosuffer.AllthishappenedtoPeru.

Butnolonger.Recently,greaterpoliticalstabilityandaboomingeconomyhavelaidthegroundworkforthedevelopmentofmuchofPeru’spotential.Andso,inevitably,theworldisbeginningtodiscoverthejewelsofPeruvianCuisine.

Internationally,PeruvianrestaurantsarenotyetaswellknownastheirMexicanorItaliancounterparts,but it isnowmuchmore likelyonewill findaPeruvianrestaurant inmostof theworld’sprincipalcitiesthanitwasjust10yearsago.Forgastronomictourists,Peruisnowamuststopandtheworld’sgreatchefsaredailyexploringPeruvianCuisineinevergreaterdepthtoinformandshapetheirofferinginrestaurantsaroundtheworld.

And then there are the efforts of Tony Custer and his colleagues. Every jewel collection needs acatalogue,sothatwewhodonotownthem,maypossessthemvicariously;tohavethemathometolookatand enjoywhen our appetitemoves us. That is Tony’s and his team’s great contribution. Thanks to hisefforts the restof theworld–aswell asmanyPeruvians–havebeenable to enjoy theseculinary jewels,suchasanextraordinaryAjideGallinaortheexquisitesweetnessofaSuspirodeLimeña.

Books like this one, and its precedent companion volume “The Art of Peruvian Cuisine I”, areextremelyvaluablecontributionstotheprocessofpreservingandinternationalizingthetreasuryofPeruvianCuisine.ThisisanimportanttaskandwearefortunatethatsomeonewithTonyCuster’stalentandvisionhasundertakenit.Tobefairthough,thisisaneasytaskinaway.Highqualityjewels,nomatterhowlocaltheymaybe,areuniversallyhungeredfor.PeruvianCuisineischockfullofjewelsthatarehungeredafterineverycorneroftheGlobe.Toconfirmthis,justopenthisbookatanypage.Youwillfindaworld-classjewel.WeowethisprivilegetoTonyCusterandthosewhohavemadethisbookwithhim.

MoisésNaímWashingtonD.C.2011

Introduction

Iwrotetheintroductiontothefirstvolumeof“TheArtofPeruvianCuisine”elevenyearsago.Somuchhaschangedsincethenitishardtoknowwheretostart.

Iwrote “TheArt of PeruvianCuisine” (Volume I) in an effort to draw attention to the exceptionalqualityandvarietyofPeruviancuisine.When Ibegan, in1999,PeruviancuisinewasvirtuallyunknownoutsideofPeru.Theonly famous restaurants sellingPeruvian food internationallywereNobu’s chainofrestaurants.Lookingback,IthinkveryfewwhoateinthosewonderfulrestaurantsknowthatmuchofwhattheyfoundmostspecialwasNobu’stakeonPeruviancuisine.IalsowantedtocreateasourceofincomeformyfledglingFoundation.

Inthatbook,IproposedgastronomictourstoPeruandhopedtolendahandinpopularizingwhatIfeltwasthegreatest“live”contributiontoworldculturePeruasanationcouldmake.Iaskedifthereaderwassurprisedatoureffortstotantalizehimorherwiththewondersofthisunknowncuisine.Thisiscertainlynolongerafactor.Now,itseemsthateverywhereIgopeoplearetalkingaboutPeruviancuisine.Itiscertainlythe“newkidintown”,onaworldscale.

Elevenyearsagowehadarelativelysmallgroupofpioneersin“nouvelle”PeruviancuisineinBookI,andaboutanevennumberof“classic”chefs.Today,wehaveapreponderanceofdaringyoungchefs.Manyofthemwereinschoolatthetime“TheArtofPeruvianCuisineI”wasfirstpublished.Infact,severalhavetoldmethatVolumeIiseithertheir“Bible”orwasinfacttheveryfirstcookbooktheyeverowned!!

“TheArtofPeruvianCuisineII” isdevotedabit toaquickstudyofwhathashappenedinPeruviangastronomic circles these past eleven years, and a lot to bringing you the latest recipes of Peru’s mosttalented chefs –what dishes havebecomenew iconsof our cuisine andwhich are the rave aswego topress.Justforfunandgeographic“reach”,wearealsoincludingafewrecipesfromtheAmazonandotherculinaryhotspotsNorthandSouthofLima.

WePeruvianstakeourfoodasseriouslyaseverandthisbookwillgiveyouaglimpseofhowseriousweare!!

Wehaveexpandedthe“History”sectiontoincludewhathashappenedinthepasttenyears.Wehavealso added a shortmonographonPisco, our national drink, preparedbyPeru’s greatest authority on thesubject:JohnnySchuler.

Inthissecondvolume,wehavedroppedmostoftheinformationonthetraditionalingredients,exceptbasichotpeppers,andbringinsteadagooddealofnewingredientsthatareplayingevenmoreimportantrolesinthedishesofourdynamicgastronomicrevolution.

The“fishandpotatoes”ofthisbookis,asbefore,ourrecipes.ManyarelongerandmorecomplexthananythinginBookI.Theyneedtobepresent,butI leavethemtotheProsandtheVeryEnthusiastic.WehaveincludedmoreofthenewcocktailsthatspringoffthebarsofLima’sbestrestaurants.Therearemanymorehorsd’eouvresthanbefore,andofcourse,lotsoffirstandsecondcourseswithperhapslessemphasisondessertsthanlasttime.

Currently, we have just printed numbers 80,001 – 85,000 of book I. I can safely say that the firstvolume’ssuccesshasveryfarexceededourwildestexpectations,especiallyas,overthepast10years,thebookhasgivenUS$1.25milliontotheFoundation.BookII,thatyouareholdingnow,isatruecompanionvolumetobookI.Thefirst5,000booksofbookIIaregoingtopressverysoon.TheycontainthelatestinPeruvianFusionfoodandtheycloselycomplementtheclassicdishesofbookI.

Enjoy!

TonyCusterLima,2011

Acknowledgments

Onceagain,sheisatthetopofthegreatpyramidofexceptionalpeoplewhohavemadethisbookpossible.ImustthankMarisaGuiulfofromthebottomofmyheart.Marisaisaswellknownforhergenerosityassheisforherground-breakinggastronomyandtitanicworkethic.Herhelponsomanyfronts,logistics,recipes,andendless chef time,was invaluable.Her sonsFelipe andCoqueonceagain lent theproject theirveryexpertandcontinuedunconditionalsupport.WestartedoutwithFelipeandquicklyCoquecameaboardtohelpmecreatethepicturesofthisbook.BothofthembroughttotheprojectmanyofPeru’sgreatestchefsandinsodoingmadethisbookpossible.

Mydeepestthanksto:Alvaro,Daniel,Diego,Flavio,Gastón,Héctor,Iván,Jaime,James,Jann,Jana,Luis,Marilú,Pedro,RafaelOsterling,RafaelPiqueras,Rodrigo,Rosario,Sandra,Toshiro,Yakir,UgoandVirgilio, for their extraordinary recipes,which are an essential sample ofwhat definesmodernPeruviangastronomy.

Veryspecialthanks,again,toMarisaGuiulfoforherkindandgenerousPreface.Hugeandveryspecialthanks tomy friendMoisesNaimwhocourageously tookagiant lateral leapoutofhis areaof supremeexcellence-thefieldofinternationalpolitics-toprovideuswithaProloguethatisafascinatinglookatwhatthegastronomyofourcountriesmeanstous:howwedefineourcuisineandhowitdefinesus.

AveryspecialthankyougoestoRobertoBaratti,whoseprofessionalismandtalentareonlymatchedby his endless patiencewith all ofmy ideas, requirements and requests. This book also owes a debt ofgratitudetohisrighthandman,Freddy.

ToMaruandJuanfor theirextremelyhardandexceptionallyproductivework in thekitchen: tastingand re-tasting the dishes so that they may all be re-produced as successfully as possible wherever therecipesof thisbookmaywander.ToYvonne,whocarefullyworkedEnglishtranslationsandspentmanyhoursinthekitchenwithMaruandJuanmakingsurewhatwewroteinonelanguagegavethesameresultsintheother.

Manythanks toLauraandFredaforsucceedingat theirOlympiantaskofcollecting, translating,andperfectingallthetextsonthisbook.VeryspecialthankstomyassistantKatiaforherunfailingpatienceandgoodwill,aswellasherperfectionistprofessionalism.Withouther,too,wecouldnothavemadethisbook.

MorethanksareduetoJoseLuisGuiulfo.Withouthis talent in thephotoshop/post-productionareaIcouldnothaveeditedthepicturestomatchtheideasIsetoutwith.Toaverygreatextenthehasbeenanimportantpartofmakingthisbooklooklikeitdoes.SpecialthanksalsotoJuanLuisforhisworkinsettingupthebook.

Finally,my undying thanks toAnaMaría, Felipe, Tutu,Malú,Marina and Sasha. Their love is thecenterofmylifeandkeepsmegoingthroughmyadventures.

Themakingofthisbook

MymainmotivationforwritingTheArtofPeruvianCuisinewasthedesiretobringPeruviancuisineoutofanonymity.Atthetime,wearetalkingabout1999,Peruvian cuisine was virtually unknown outside of Peru, known only for its“dead”wonders:Cuzco,MachuPicchu,ceramics,pre-Columbiantextiles,etc.Iwanted to invite people tomake gastronomic tours aroundPeru,whichwouldaim to recognize the important contributions of the Peruvian cuisine toworldculture,andappreciateitasanactual“living”heritage.

MysecondmotivationwastocreateasourceofrevenuenotonlytocovertheCusterFoundationexpenses,buttohelpitgrow.ImadethefirstdraftsofprojectwithFelipeOssio,sonofMarisaGuiulfo,thefounderofthefirstcatererinthePacificcoastofSouthAmerica.ThenCoqueOssio,cheftrainedintheUSandEurope(andbrotherofFelipe),joinedus.

With their help, wewent tomeet the great chefs of Lima and asked whatdishes were themost representative of Peruvian cuisine. I wanted to create avolume that notonlymadepeoplewant to cook,but also tovisitPeru.That’showwedesigned,withthesupportofCoque,anew“look”forPeruviancuisine,starting with my proposal to remove the containers or dishes from thephotographs.

With 107,000 printed volumes and almost the same number of books sold,this volume was much more successful than we could ever imagine, in bothEnglishinSpanish.

TheArtofPeruvianCuisinehasgiventodatealmost$2milliondollarstotheCuster Foundation since its first edition. This has allowed the Foundation’sAprendamos Juntos program to grow andmaintain 12 classrooms that benefit1,600 children, 50 teachers and 800 parents of the most vulnerableneighborhoodsinLimaanditssurroundings.Todate,theprogram’sclasseshavehelpedmorethan7,000children,improvingtheirself-esteemandtheirabilitytolearn.Alongwiththat,theyhavetrainedmorethan4,000parentsthroughspecial

workshops. Today, the program hasmore than 100 teachers dedicated to thistask.

Seemoreat:Aprendamos Juntos program of the Custer Foundation

http://www.fundacioncuster.org

http://www.fundacioncuster.org

History

Introduction

ThegreatestoftherichesthediscoveryofAmericabroughttotheworldwasnotitsgold,butthecontentsofitslarderandwhattheymeantforfeedingtheworld.

America[1] became isolated when the continents drifted apart millions of years ago, and uniqueecosystemsdeveloped.The hugebiodiversity that evolvedwas very different fromanyother part of theworld.WiththearrivalofColumbusandtheensuingexchangeofNewWorldandOldWorldproducts,anenormousgastronomicrevolutionwassetoffthatchangedthewaytheworldate.

ManyflagshipEuropeandisheswouldnotexistwithouttheproductsbroughtfromAmerica.Therewould be no potato omelettes in Spain, nor beans for cassoulet in Toulouse, no paprika, Bell peppers,piquillopeppers,cayennepeppersorchocolatetoaccompanychurrosorstrawberries.InItalytherewouldbe no tomato sauce or polenta. To say nothing of goulash in Hungary, chocolate in Switzerland andBelgium,andchipstogowithfishinEngland.

MeetingofCultures

TheculturesthatdevelopedinAmericafacedgreatchallengestoagriculturalproduction,suchasthelackofdraftanimalsandirontools;therewasrelativelylittlearablelandintheAndeanpartoftheNewWorldandinmostoftheareathereweredrasticclimaticchanges.However,Andeanmenandwomenmadeuseofthebroken geography and different climates –Peru has over 80% of the world’s climates– as resources,exploitingthemanymicroclimatesinclosejuxtapositioniningeniouswayssothatevenarelativelysmallethnic grouphad access to products from several very different ecological zones.Through themillenniaAndeanpeoplesdomesticatedanamazingvarietyofcropsand,toalesserextent,animals.Inmanycasesplants, animals and condiments fulfilled and still fulfill a double function: nutritional andpharmacological.Andeanpeoplesalsotookadvantageoftheuniquenessoftheirgeographytoinventwaysofpreservingfoodssuchasfreeze-dryingpotatoestomakechuño,whichcouldnotnaturallybeduplicatedelsewhereintheworld.Andthentherewastheseawithitsbountyoffish,shellfishanddifferentkindsofseaweed.Marineresourceswereasimportantinthepastastheyareinthepresent.

TheEuropeanswhofirstsawtheherdsofthousandsofAmericancamelidsintheLakeTiticacaareawereamazedatthewealththeyrepresented.TherewasnothingcomparabletothescopeandwealthoftheIncaEmpire.Thesamelandswhichmodernagronomistsperceiveasbarelyfitforagriculturewerethebasisofhighcivilization:Monumentalarchitecture,complexstateorganization,aroadsystemlargerthananyintheworld,eveninsheersize–theIncaempirewastwicethesizeoftheRomanempire.EvenmoreamazingaswediscovermoreaboutPeru’spastisthatithadanenormouscityandcultureflourishingatthesametimeasMesopotamia,Egypt,IndiaandChina.AndeansocialandeconomicorganizationwerecompletelynewtotheEuropeans,whomarveledattheIncaEmpirewherenoonewenthungryandwithvaststoresoffoodandgoodswhichtheEuropeanswerestillusing30yearsaftertheConquest.

TheculinarymixproducedinPerubythearrivaloftheSpanishwasdifferentfromthatproducedinMexicoor theCaribbean.The cultural encounter betweenEurope andTahuantinsuyo–the IncaEmpire–also signified changes in the diet of the indigenous peoples.Theywere introduced to different livestock(sheep, pigs and cattle) and chickens, in addition to products such as rice, sugar, oranges and lemons,grapes,garlic,onionsandoliveoil,amongothers.Alsodifferentfarmingtechniquesandwaysofcookingfoodwereintroduced.

During theViceroyalty of Peru –themost important and powerful inAmerica– immigrants from allover Spain and a large contingent of African slaves arrived. The scholar Rosario OlivasWeston notesviceregalcuisinewasbasedonfourelements.First, thefoods,drinksandeatinghabitscarriedoverfromprehispanic times; second, the products from each Andean region; third, the existence of a large andpowerfulgroupofpeoplefromaparticularareaofSpainandAfrica;and, finally, theskillsof individualpractitioners,bothamateursandprofessionals,intheculinaryarts.

TheproductscontributedbyAmerica

TheSpanishwholandedinPerufoundproductshithertounknowntothem,suchaspotatoes,strawberries,chirimoyasorcustardapples,guineapigs,quinoa,alpacasandllamas.

ToalargeextentthepotatocontributedtosavingEuropefromstarvation,feditsarmiesandbecamethedailyfoodof theordinarypeople.AsXavierDomingopointedout inhisbookDe laOllaalMole,“Thepotato.Thehumblestandwithoutdoubt themost importantofhumanconquests in the fieldofnutrition.The universal development of its cultivation and introduction into the everyday cuisine of most of thepeoplesonearthisoneofthemostexcitingchaptersinthehistoryofagricultureandthehistoryoffood.”Bythesametoken,itwastheadaptabilityofthistuber,differentvarietiesofwhichcanbeplantedinalmostanyclimate,locationoraltitudethatalloweditsrapidspreadthroughouttheworld.

Corn(maize)wasthestaplefoodinthedietofnativeculturesespeciallyinMesoamericaalthoughinthehighlandAndesthepotatoandothertuberswerethestaplefood.IntheAndeanarea,cornwasprimarilyimportant for making axa or aja, which the Spanish called chicha, a Taino word they learned in theCaribbeanforthefermentedcornbeerwhichwascentraltoallhospitality,ceremoniesandworkgroups.Onthecoastwhere itwasmoreplentiful, cornwasalsoconsumed fresh,boiledor in the formofdough fortamalesandtortillas.ItwasoneoftheproductstheSpanishincorporatedintotheirdietatthebeginningoftheconquest.Theyalsouseddifferentpartsoftheplanttofeedpoultry, livestockandotherdomesticatedanimals.

Chocolate,with its delicious flavor and invigorating power, easilywon over the European courts,especiallywiththeadditionofsugar,milkandvanillainitspreparation.VanillafromtheGulfofMexico

areaofMesoamericawasoneofthemosthighlyvaluedofthespicesbroughttoEuropebyColumbus.Ucho, or chili or ají, another Taino word brought by the Spanish from the Caribbean was the

accompanimentofallthefoodsoftheprecolumbianethnicgroups.GarcilasodelaVegainhisComentariosReales de los Incas [RoyalCommentaries of the Incas], 1609, describes the use of this product inPeru,“Peruvian Indians are so fond of uchu [theQuechuaword for ají] that theywill not eatwithout it eventhough it isnotwithout some rawherbs.”“Theyput it ineverything theyeat,whether stewed,boiledorbaked,theydon’teatanythingwithoutit,whichtheycalluchuandtheSpanishcallpepperoftheIndies.”

Columbusbroughtseveralvarietiesof“pepperoftheIndies”toSpain.ItwasusedintheSpanishdietandthenintherestofEuropeinfreshanddriedformsandlaterinthepowderedformknownaspepperorpaprika.

TomatoesareimportantinMediterraneanfood.Theyareeatenroastedorstuffed,gentlyfriedintheflavorfulsofritobaseofmanydishes,inAndalusiangazpacho,insaucessuchaspomodoroandBolognese,inpisto,ratatouilleandavarietyofsalads,inadditiontohundredsofothersaucesanddishesfoundalloverEurope.

IhaveselectedthesefiveproductsbecauseoftheirwidediffusionintheEuropeanandespeciallytheMediterraneandiet,withoutundervaluingtheimportanceofthedomesticturkey,differentkindsofbeans,sweet potatoes, cassava or manioc, pumpkin (squash), peanuts (groundnuts), fruits such as pineapples,papayas, chirimoyas (custard apples), avocados, tunas (prickly pear fruits) and others. The sheerextensivenessoftheAmericanlardermakesitimpossibleatthislatedatetogointomuchdetailaboutthemanyproductsthattraveledtotheOldWorld.

Otherculturesareaddedtothemix

InPeru,therewasatrademonopolyduringmostoftheViceroyaltythatpreventedtheexchangeofgoodswithothernations, creating a closedworld inwhich culinary customs,methods and techniques reflectedonly thoseofSpain. In the late18thcentury, theAmericanRevolution inNorthAmerica followedby theFrench Revolution in Europe, influenced the growing pro-independence movements in the Americancolonies. The war for American independence and then Napoleon’s coming to power in France andgraduallythroughoutEurope,werekeyelementsforopeningtheSpanishcoloniestotheworld.

ThearrivalofasignificantnumberofimmigrantsfromalloverEuropeinfluencedwaysofthinking,fashion,customsandthewayofeating.Newproductsanddishesbecamepartofourgastronomy.

In the middle of the 19th century, the exploitation of guano – the natural fertilizer produced byseabirds–resultedinaneconomicboomthatincreasedtradebetweenPeruandFrance,Germany,England,ChinaandsomeLatinAmericancountries.Thiswealth,alsobroughtwithithugechangesineverydaylife.

Gradually, new customs were filtering in. During the second half of the 19th century, Frenchinfluencewaspredominant,mainlyintheupperclassesandinofficialcircles.

Also around this time began the massive migration from China which would profoundly influencePeruviancuisine.Facedwitheatinghabitsquitedifferent from theirown, theChinesedemanded in theircontracts–acaseuniqueinworld labor legislation–that theybeprovidedwithcookingsuppliesasmuchlike those of their home country as possible.Once they had fulfilled their labor contracts on the guanoislandsandtheplantations,Chineseworkersengagedinvariousactivities:laundryservices,trade,domesticserviceand,ofcourse,cooking.Greatchefs,theyquicklylearnedthesecretsoflocalcuisine.Theyopenedsmalleateriestoservetheircountrymen,whoneverbecameaccustomedtolocalfood.MostsettledinCalleCapon,whichsoonbecameLima’sChinatown.The firstChinese restaurantswere foundedon that streetandwerecalledchifas,acorruptionoftheCantonesewordssekfan,whichmean“eatrice.”TheChinesepopularizedtheconsumptionofthatgraininPerutotheextentthattodayitisafundamentalingredientofPeruvianfood.

Theybroughtalongwiththemalargenumberoffoodproductsfromtheirownregion,mostofwhichwere Cantonese –which started another process of culinarymixture. Among the products they broughtwereholantau(fromtheChineseholandou(snowpeas),lowwongkua(yellowsquash),kauchoy(Orientalgarlicchives),siuchoy(Chinesecabbage),tonkuordonku(Chineseformushroom).

ItalyalsocontributedtothePeruviantable.Between1840and1880theItalianpresenceinPerugrewsubstantially, particularlywith immigrants from the region ofLiguria. So itwas the cuisine ofNorthernItaly that came toPeru, since, asweknow there is nonational Italiangastronomy. Italiandishesmostlybecame known through fondas (cheap restaurants), chinganas (modest restaurants) and bodegas (wineshops/bars/groceryshops).Mostlyseamen,theseimmigrantsintroduceddishesbasedonfishandshellfishinto our cuisine. Scallops with Parmesan cheese, a dish unknown in the rest of world, was an Italianinvention. Also, until a few years ago,muchame, made from dried dolphin fillets, was eaten in Lima.Chupín,arockfishsoupeatenwithbread,hasundeniableItalianroots.ThecultivationofvegetablesaroundLimaandothercoastalcitiesby Italian immigrantsmeant freshvegetablessuchasspinach,Swisschard,basil,cabbage,broccoli,cauliflowerandbeetscouldbeusedandincorporatedintocriollocuisine.

In1899thefirstgroupofJapaneseimmigrantsarrivedinPeru,fleeingthepovertyleftinthewakeofthewarofunificationundertheruleoftheTokugawaShogunate.LiketheChinese,atthebeginningthey

sufferedveryhardworkconditions,butinthe1920s,about180,000Japaneseimmigrantshadbeenreunitedwiththeirfamiliesandwerefinanciallywellestablished.

The first Japanese restaurants introduced food new to Peruvians, based on seafood and adding newproductssuchasshoyu,miso,wasabi,aswellastheuniquewayofservingthemraworalmostraw,whichwould influence tremendously thepreparationofceviche, tiraditosandmanyofourdishespreparedwithseafood.

The influenceofChinese, ItalianandJapanese, togetherwithourpre-Incaand Inca,Spanish,Arabicand Sephardic, North African and African roots, created the great melting pot that shaped our cuisine,makingitdifferentanduniqueinAmerica.

Moderntimes

WiththeadventofmodernitygeneratedaftertheFirstWorldWar,Peruexperiencedanewstageofgreatinfluencesinmanyareasand,ofcourse,inthewaytheyate.

The postwar years of the 1950s signified prosperity for Peru, but were times of scarcity andreconstruction. People of all trades turned their gaze to the New World. Many professionals in thehospitalityandculinaryworldcametoPeruinsearchofnewopportunities.Headwaiters,chefsandwaitersfromtheshipsplyingtheItalianandFrenchroutes,werehiredbythemostimportanthotelsinLima,suchastheMaury(foundedbyaCatalaninthe19thcentury),theBolívar,theCrillon,theHotelParacasandtheCountryClub,thebestoftheirera.Thesemendisplayedtheirtalentinhotelsand,overtime,manybecameindependent, founding their own restaurants. The French Piaget, and Magnet, like the Swiss Schuller,among others, made money and gained prestige, basing their success on menus that offered not justmagnificentinternationalfood,butalsoexcellentPeruvianfoodsincetheyrapidlycaughtontotheappealofourcuisine.

Duringthe1960sEuropeemergedfromtherecession;povertyandthehorrorsofwarwereleftbehind.Therewasa revolution in social sensibilitiesandaestheticcriteria,whichnaturallyaffected food.Peoplewere concerned with eating well but in a simpler and healthier way. As the concept matured, nouvellecuisineappearedinFranceduringthe‘70s.

InPeruinthelate‘60stherewasamilitarycoup.Thoseinpowerturnedtheirbacksontherestoftheworldandalmostcompletelyclosedtheirborders.TheeffectsofthispolicyhadrepercussionsonPeruviangastronomy.With the prohibition on imports, restaurants and bakeries went bankrupt or were forced toreducedrastically theavailabilityof ingredients.Chinese restaurantswereparticularlyaffected,unable tofind localsubstitutesfor theexoticproducts theyused. Ingeneral, thewealthierclientele left thecountryandwerereplacedbyamiddleclasslackingtheculturalandculinarysophisticationoftheirpredecessors.Restaurants that had consolidated their prestige in the ‘50s and ‘60s looked sadly empty and manyPeruviansandforeignersintheculinarybusinesstraveledtoEuropeandtheUnitedStates,takingwiththemthe culinary baggage forged through the centuries. There theymet the gastronomic revolution that wastaking place. They met Paul Bocuse, Guerard, the Troisgros and Saenderens. They found that peopleconsidered the importance of health and looking thin and wanted slender figures. They talked aboutcholesterol,anddeifiedChristianBarnard,whoperformedthefirsthearttransplant.

Theseself-exiledPeruviansnoticedtheconcernoftheworld’smaincuisinestoworkwithhighqualityfresh produce simply presented. They witnessed the creativity, the inspiration of chefs and began tofantasizewistfullyaboutwhatcouldbedoneintheircountryunderdifferentcircumstances.Theylearnedthe rudimentsofdietandbanished longanddifficultpreparations frommemory.Watchingandworking,theyrealizedvegetablesshouldbefinelycutupandpreparedaldente,thatfishiseatenlightlycookedorraw. They thought longingly of mouth-watering ceviche. Finally, they took on board the idea that thelightnessofthedishshouldbethemostsoughtafterandappreciatedquality.

InSpain,theygottoknowthenewBasquecuisine,whichincorporatednovelingredientsandmethodsof preparation. They added market cuisine, which relies on fresh seasonal produce, to their culinaryshoppingcart.Theyparticipatedintheintroductionofnewelementssuchaspuffpastryorheavycream-linked sauces and the exquisite presentation of dishes, which clearly defined a style. Attentive, thePeruviansheard,perhapsforthefirsttimetheterm“cuisined’auteur”whichmeansamenuofcompletely

originaldishes.What is imposedwhendevelopingnew recipes is the criterionof the creator.Whowerethesecreators?Arzak,inthefirstplace,who,alongwithSubijana,Argiñano,Castillo,Fombellida,Roteta,Irizar,Pildainandothersmanagedtogivebacktotheirgueststheexcitementandcuriositythathadbeenmissing.

TheNewPeruvianCuisine

TheseexperiencesmadeusstartthinkingofapplyingournewinsightstotraditionalPeruvianfood.In the finalyearsofmilitary rule,Perubegan toopenuppoliticallyandeconomically to theoutside

worldand thePeruviansreturningfromabroadcamehomewitha transformedconceptofdining.AnewPeruvian cuisine was conceived, which sought to enhance flavors using the freshest ingredients of thehighestquality.Flavorswere tobeenhanced,notmasked,as theyhadbeen in thepast.Excessiveuseofspicyhotpepper issignificant in thisrespect,since–likespices in theMiddleAges–theywereusedtocoverupthetasteofproducts,which,whilesuitableforconsumption,werenotofoptimumquality.

As opposed to the process of massification, the struggle began to recover basic historical andtraditionalproductsofPeru.Inthecaseofpotatoes,varietieswererescuedsuchasHuamantanga,orhighaltitudeyellowandblackpotatoes,domesticated thousandsofyearsago in thiscountry.Poultry fedwithnaturalfoodratherthancommercialfeedconcentratesweresoughtout.Lucumas,yuca(cassava),quinua,huacatayandtheamaranthkiwichawererescued.

In the early ‘80s, the political and economic winds were favorable. Laws weremade to promotetourism and establish new hotels and restaurants, opening the way for the new vanguard of Peruviancuisine.AmongthepioneerswecanmentionMarisaGuiulfo,BernardoRocaRey,CuchoLaRosa,JohnnySchuler,HumbertoSato,ToshiroKonishi,AlfredoAramburú,thisauthor,andothers.

Cuisinebeginstobeseenwithneweyes,exploringthepast,seekingprideinwhatisoursandanewtasteisgiven–punintended–totheflavorsofPeru.

Thismovementhasmadealotofcultivatedpeoplelookatcookingandtakeitupasaprofession,asaway of life, something that didn’t happen in the past. People likeGastónAcurio, IsabelÁlvarez, SergeBebko,FelipeandCoqueOssio,RafaelOsterling,HectorSolis,LuisCordero,SandraandUgoPlevisanitookupthebaton,studied,wenttoFrance,Spain,theUnitedStates.Theymarveledwiththefrequentuseoflocalandseasonalproduce,theywitnessed,amazedattheuseofexquisite,polished,professionaltechnique.OntheirreturntoPeru,thesechefsgavelecturesandtaughtwhattheyhadlearned.

A series of cooking schools was created and some universities proposed hospitality and tourismstudieswithaspecializationinfood.Inthiswayanewcadreofyoungchefsisdevelopingatalllevelsandin every specialty.Young people likeAlvaroRaffo,DanielManrique,DiegoMuñoz, Flavio Solorzano,HayimeKasuga, IvanKisic, JaimePesaque, JamesBerckemeyer, JannVanOordt, JanaEscudero, JorgeFerrand, Marilú Madueño, Mitsuhame Tsumura, Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, Rafael Piqueras, RosarioAlcorta,Yakir Sato,VirgilioMartínez, Jean PierreDesmaison,HirkaRocaRey and SantiagoSolari aretakingpartinthisnewmovementinsearchandrescueofthreebasicthings:-OldPeruvianrecipes,togivethemnewformtobeacceptedinthecontemporaryworld.-NaturalPeruvianproducts,toavoidmassification.Tolookfortheoriginalnamesofproducts,thepolitics

ofthesmallproducerofhighqualityproducts,thusprotectingandencouragingtheagriculturalsector.-ThesuccessandinternationalizationofPeruvianfoodthroughthesystemandcoding,educatingpeople

toworkundertheinternationalstandardsofhygieneandthebesttechniques.

In the last 10 years the widespread and international recognition of our cuisine began, thanks to theconfluenceofseveralfactors:

Statepolicy that recognizesPeruviancuisineas“CulturalPatrimonyof theNation.”Apolicywas

designed–withtheparticipationoftheprivatesector–todisseminateourgastronomyworldwide.

The promotion of food festivals in numerous countries in America, Europe and Asia with the

participation of Peruvian chefs. Inviting gastronomic critics and journalists from around the

worldtovisitourcountrytolearnaboutourcuisineandthehugebiodiversitythatexistshere.

ParticipationinspecializedfairssuchasMadridFusión,inSpain,TheWorldofFlavorspresentedby

theCIA(CulinaryInstituteofAmerica),inNapaValley,California,USA,amongothers.

ThepublicationofalotofbooksonPeruviancuisine

Launchingthebrand“PERUMUCHOGUSTO”topromoteourcuisine.

Ontheotherhand,theprivatesector,includinguniversitiesandculinaryschools,unionorganizations,suchasApega,CanaturandAhora,themedia,restaurantowners,chefs,specializedpublishers,foundationsand Peruvians in general, have joined together to promote our cuisine, led by the chef Gaston Acurio.MISTURA,thefoodfairorganizedbyAPEGA,isitsbestexpression.

Peruviancuisinehasbeguntobe“exported”withtheopeningofupscalerestaurants.EmilioPeschierainChile,CarmenDelgado(LAGORDA)inMadridandlaterGastónAcurio,RafaelOsterling,JeanPaulDesmaison, among others, Colombia, Argentina, Mexico, Ecuador, Panama, where they are recognizedamongthebestinthosecountries,inSanFrancisco,MiamiandNewYorkintheUSA,aswellasinSpainandFrance.

What has been happening in our country in recent years has been referred to as “the Peruvian

gastronomicboom”and“LimathegastronomiccapitalofLatinAmerica.”EverythingwehavesaiduptillnowhasbeensummedupbyFerranAdriainaninterviewpublished

ina localnewspaper:“Peru today is, thanks to its cooking,aworldwidephenomenon.Andkidshaveasmuch interest in becoming chefs as they once did in becoming soccer players or actors, it is a uniquesociologicalphenomenon.Idon’tknowofanysituation like it in theworldandithasbeendonewithoutneedinganyresourcestomakeithappen,Ithinkitisfantastic,exciting.”

ArturoRubioLima,Perú2011

[1]InPeruandmanyothercountries,theAmericasareconsideredonecontinent,nottwo.

Ingredients

AJÍES/HOTPEPPERSAjíesorhotpeppershavebeenknownandusedinPerufromatleast8000B.C.TheyareanessentialelementintheflavoringandcolorofbothtraditionalandmodernPeruvian cuisine. Ají is a Taino (Arawak)word the Spanish broughtfromtheCaribbean,hotpeppersinQuechuaareuchu.

AjíAmarillo(Capsicumbaccatum)This is the most commonly used hot pepper in Peru. It is also known as ají verde, ají fresco and ajíescabeche.Theajíamarillooryellowajíisalongfinger-shapedchilipepper,withabrightshinyyellow-orangeskin. Ithasanaromatic fruity flavorand isnotveryhot.Seededandsliced, it is added todishesduringcookingandalsousedrawasanedib1egarnish.Sometimesasinglepiecewillbeput intoadishduringcookingtoflavorthefoodandthenremovedbeforeserving.Theajíamarilloisalsocommonlyusedinpaste form.Thefreshají iscooked inboilingwater tomake it softand thenblended tomakeapaste.Whenaddedtodishesduringcookingthispasteimpartsahotfruityflavorandapleasantyellowcolortothefood.Thepastecanalsobemixedwithoilandusedasacondimentordippingsauce.

AjíCerezo(Capsicumannuum)This is the cherry ají, because it looks like a cherry, being small and round and red. Found largely inLambayeque.Veryspicyflavor.

AjíCharapita(Capsicumannuum)AnajígrownintheAmazonregion.Verysmall,round,yellow-orangeandaromatic.Veryveryspicy.Intherainforest,whereitisverypopular,itisbelievedtohaveaphrodisiacqualities.Usedinvarioussaucesandalsopickled.

AjíDulce(CapsicumchinensealsoCapsicumsinense)FoundalloverSouthAmerica,thissmall,lightgreenpepperthatturnsredoryellowifleftlongenoughontheplantisnotspicy.Sinceallthewildpeppersaroundarespicy,itislikelythatitwasdevelopedovertheyearsbyfarmerswhoselectedseedfrommilderandmilderfruits.Thefruitofajídulcecanbeusedgreenorripe,anditcanbeseededandfrozenforuseoverthewinter,atechniquethatalsopreservesitsrich,sweet,smokyflavormuchbetterthandrying.InPeruitisoftenusedintheAmazonregion,suchasinjuanes.

AjíLimo(Capsicumfrutescens)Thesearemulti-coloredminiaturePeruvianpeppersandareextremelyhot.Theycomeinavarietyofreds,yellowsandorangesandarealsosometimeslavenderorwhite.Theyareusedfreshincevichesandtiraditosandalsoforcoloranddecoration.Toreducespicinessstem,seedanddeveinthemandsoakinalittlewaterwithvinegarandsugarfor5minutes.Rinsewellandproceedwiththerecipe.

AjíMirasol(Capsicumbaccatum)

Thisisthedriedversionoftheajíamarillo.Ithasadeepcopperywrinkledorangeskin,whichshouldbe

wellwashedbeforeusing.Ithasmoredepthofflavorthaninitsfreshformandanalmostsmokyaroma.Ajímirasol isdrysautéedor soakedand thenground tomakeapasteorpowder toseasonandcolordishes.Commerciallypreparedajímirasolpasteisalsoavailableinspecialtyfoodstores.

AjíPanca(Capsicumchinense)

Ajípancaisanothervarietyofdriedhotpeppersimilartotheajímirasol.Darkreddishpurpleincoloritgivesadeepermore“woodsy”flavortodishes.AlsoknowninPeruasajícolorado,traditionassociatesittothearrivalofChineseCuisineinPeru.ItismarketedintheUnitedStatesasColoradoorNewMexicochili.Ají panca is dry sautéed or soaked then ground to make a paste or powder to season and color.Commerciallypreparedajípancapasteisavailableinspecialtyfoodstores.

Rocoto(Capsicumpubescens)

Rocotoisamedium-sizedroundpepper,whichisfiercelyhot.Thickfleshedwithsmallblackseeds,itcansometimesbeyellow,greenororangebutisusuallyred.Itcanbechoppedrawtomakeafierysalsaandisalsogroundintoapastetospicedishes.Becauseofitsfirmerfleshitisoftenstuffedasyouwouldabell

pepper.Blanchwithvinegarandsugartoreducespiciness.Allchiliesshouldbehandledwithcareasthejuice canburnyour lips, eyes or skin.Oil your handsbefore handling to prevent stingingor cover yourhandswith plastic bagswhich can later be discarded.Peruvian chilies give a very distinctive flavor andcolor to dishes but there are possible substitutes. NOTE: Some alternatives are the ancho, jalapeño andserranochilies.

Achiote(BixaOrellana)AnnattoAchioteisanativePeruvianjungleplant.Itisusedasbodypaintbyindigenoustropicalforestpeoplesandused commercially to color margarine. The irregular terracotta-colored seeds give a distinctive pepperyflavor, a little like nutmeg, to stews and sauces butmostly they impart a bright orange-red color.Whenbuying, the most brightly colored achiote seeds have a fresher flavor. The seeds will keep almostindefinitely in a tightly sealed container if they are stored in a cool, dark place.They can be infused invegetableoilandtheresultingpreparationwillkeepinatightlysealedcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto

ayear.Useachioteoilinsteadofnormalvegetableoilinarecipetoaddcolorandflavor.Tomaketheoil:seeBasicRecipes.

Almibar(JarabedeGoma)Heavysugarsyrup

Thistranslucentsugarsyrupcanbepurchased,commerciallyproducedandbottled, inmostfoodmarketsandliquorstores.Heavysugarsyrupisusedmostlyatthebar,particularlyformakingPeru’semblematiccocktail,thepiscosour.Onecanalsomakeitathome:put1kiloofsugarin1literofwaterinasaucepanand heat it until all the sugar dissolves. Do not stir, do not let boil. When the sugar has completelydissolved, remove saucepan from heat. Let cool to room temperature. Store in a bottle or jar at roomtemperature.

Camarón(Cryphioscaementarius)PeruvianFreshwaterCrayfish

Tome,alongwithourwonderfulpotatoes,thisisPeru’smostmagnificentingredient(hencethefullpagespread).IfeeltheseareminiatureMainelobstersthat,wheneaten,evolveonthepalateinthesamewayagreatwinedoes.The Peruvian camarón is a delicately flavored variety of freshwater crayfish,mainly found in the clearriversaroundPeru’ssecondcity,Arequipa.IthasformedpartofthelocaldietforcenturiesandisalsouseddriedinsaucessuchasOcopa.Itislargeandgray-greenwhenrawandpinkwhencooked.Crayfisharesoldwhole or just the tails.All parts of the crayfish are used to give depth of flavor to sauces, chowders orstews.Theheadsandshellsmakeadeliciousandnutritiousstock.Thetailsthemselvesarelightlysautéedorboiledandincludedinsoupssuchaschupedecamaronesorparihuela.Theyarealsodeliciouscoldeitherasafillingforcausaorinsalads.Thecoral,whichcanbeanythingfrompalegreyorgreenishtodeeppinkin color, is found just at thebaseof thehead andcanbe squeezedout andmixed into sauces for addedflavor,especiallyinmantequilladecoraldecamarón,orcrayfishcoralbutter.

CaviardePezVoladorTobiko,FlyingFishRoe

Flying fish roe or tobiko (from the Japanese tobiuo) has a peculiar texture, the tiny eggs are deliciouslycrunchywhen fried.The fried roe is used tomake the Japanese dish agemono, a category of deep-frieddishesinJapanesecuisine,oritcanbedestinedforyakimono,theJapanesetermforgrilledfoods.Flyingfishroeisusedtogivecolorandflavortosushi.ThishighlysustainablecaviarcancomefromanyoffiftyspeciesofthefamilyExocoetidaefoundinabundanceinalmostalloftheworld’soceans.

CecinaAhumada

Curedpork,beef,or, in theAmazonarea,wildpeccary (Pecari tajacu)orotherwildmeatspreservedbysalting, air drying and smoking,Used especially in a dish known as tacacho aswell as in this book the

deliciousCrocanteamazónico.

ChichadeJoraChichadejoraisafermentedmaizebeermadesinceancienttimesintheAndes.ThewordchichaisinfactaTainowordbroughtfromtheCaribbeanbytheSpanishinthe16thcentury,theQuechuawordforcornbeerisaxa.Thecornisusuallysproutedandfermentedandotheringredientsareadded,suchasfruit.

Chonta(Bactrisspp.,Euterpespp.,Astrocaryum)HeartofPalm

TheshootofanindigenousAmericanpalmtree.Theshoots,knownaspalmitoorheartofpalm,areusedinpreparingthefermenteddrinkchicha,creamsoupsandsauces,juaneswithpaiche(fish)andheartofpalmsalad.The rootof this tree isused incombatingmalariawhich is common in thearea.Cultivated in theAmazonareasinceancienttimes,chontafiguresinmagic-religiousrituals.

ChorizoAmazónicoAmazonSausage

Freshsausagemadeofpork,redonion,cuminandlime.SimilartotheBasquesausagechistorro.

Cocona(Solanumsessiliflorum)AmazonTomato

NativetotheAmazonandOrinocoRivers.Cultivatedfromremotetimes,nowildformisknown.Thefruitofcoconaisared,orangeoryellowedibleberry.Ithasanacidflavorandissometimesusedlikeatomato;somevarietiesarehighlyprizedfortheirjuice.Itcanbeeatenfresh,usedindesserts,sauces,juice,jams,icecream,cocktails.Recentstudiesindicatethepossibilityitcontainshigh-cholesterolfightingcompounds.

FlordeHinojo(Nigellasativa)RomanCoriander

FennelFlower,orNutmegFlower,isnotinanywayrelatedtofennel.Itwashighlyregardedincookingby

the Romans, hence one of its common names, Roman coriander. The seeds have a strong, agreeablearomaticodor,likethatofnutmegs,andaspicy,pungenttaste.Theywereformerlyusedasasubstituteforpepper.InIndia,theseedsareusedasacondimentandasastimulantandhavevariousmedicinaluses.InEasterncountriestheyarecommonlyusedforseasoningcurriesandotherdishes,andtheEgyptiansspreadthemonbreadorputthemoncakeslikecomfits,believingthemtobefattening.TheyarealsousedinIndiaforputtingamongthelinentokeepawayinsectsandmedicinallybynativedoctorsforindigestion.

Hongos de Porcón (Suilleus luteus) Mushrooms fromPorcon,SlipperyJack

Mushroomsgrownanddehydratedundersemi-controlledartisanalconditionsinPorcon,Cajamarca,onanecologicalfarmbylocalpeasantfarmerfamilies.GranjaPorconisrunasacooperativeadministeredbytheEvangelicalChurchofChristcommunity.ThemushroomsaresoldmostlytogourmetrestaurantsinLima.

KushuroorMurmunta(Nostoccommune)Blue-greenalgae

Kushuro isanedibleCyanobacteriaalgae,alsoknownasblue-greenalgae, thatgrowsnear theshoresofhigh altitude (above 3000meters) springs, rivers and lakes.Kushuro ormurmunta grows in the formofroundgelatinouspearls that looklikecaviar.It iseatenindishessuchaspicantedekushuro.Called“themiraculousalga”,ithasreputedpharmaceuticalpropertiesandislocallybelievedtobegoodforthebonesandteeth.

Limón(Citrusaurantifolia)Keylime,tropicallime

Peruvian limón iscalledakey limeor tropical lime in theUnitedStates. It issimilar toa lime,butwithmorejuice.Itissmallandroundwithathingreenskinthatturnsyellowasitbecomesriper.Itshouldbeboughtwhengreenandstillfirmtothetouchasthemorematurethefruitbecomesthemorebitterthejuicewillbe.A largebowlof limoneswillalwaysbe found inanyhome inLima.The juice isused to flavorsalsasanddippingsaucesandalsosqueezedintosoups.Mostimportantlytheacidicjuiceisusedto“‘cook”

therawfishinPeru’snationaldishcevicheanditsyoungersiblingthetiradito.Thejuiceshouldalwaysbesqueezedimmediatelybeforeusing.

Maca(LepidiumperuvianumG.ChacónorLepidiummeyenii)

A root vegetable related to and resembling the radish and the turnip. The most commonly grown andexportedarethecreamcoloredroots,favoredinPerufortheirenhancedsweetnessandsize.Blueandblackmacaareconsidered thestrongest inenergy-promotingproperties,beingbothsweetandslightlybitter intaste. Red maca is also becoming popular with many people, and has been clinically shown to reduce

prostatesizeinrats.Traditionallygrownataltitudesof4,100to4,500meters(13,500–14,800ft),thoughisnowbeinggrownatavarietyofaltitudes.Macaistypicallydriedforfurtherprocessing.Althoughmacahasbeen cultivatedoutside theAndes, it is not yet clearwhether it develops the sameactive constituents orpotency.Forapproximately2,000years,macahasbeenanimportanttraditionalfoodandmedicinalplantinitslimitedgrowingregion.Itisregardedasahighlynutritious,energy-imbuingfood,andasamedicinethatenhancesstrength,enduranceandalsoactsasanaphrodisiac.DuringSpanishcolonizationmacawasusedascurrency.

Mamey(Mammeaamerican)Mamey is another Tainoword, and the fruit comes from a species of evergreen tree native to southernMexicoandnorthernSouthAmerica.Theegg-shapedtoellipticalfruitisabout8to25cm(3to10inches)long,hasacork-likeskinandhasyellowtoreddishflesh.Thefruitiseatenrawoutofhandormadeintomilkshakes,jam,compoteandicecream.Thefruit’sflavorisvariouslydescribedassimilartopumpkin,acombinationofpumpkin,chocolateandalmond,oramixtureofsweetpotato,avocado,andhoney.Someconsiderthefruitanaphrodisiac.Mameyisthecornerstoneofholisticmedicine.Itisusedextensivelyasaveritablepanaceaforgastro-intestinalmaladiesandalsototreatheadachesandvenerealdiseases.TherearenumerousaccountsoftheMameybeingusedasanantisepticduringtheSpanish-Americanwar.

MusciamedePato

Musciame or muchame was originally made from dolphin in Peru by fishermen of Italian descent.Fortunately,since1996thedolphinsareprotectedandsomusciameismadefromothermarinespeciessuchastunaorbonito,otherfish,andfromduck.Thefreshduckbreastissalt-cured,oftensmoked,cutinthinslicesandseasonedwitholiveoil,garlic,oregano,blackpepperandothercondiments.

Olluco(Ullucustuberosus)

Theollucoorpapalisa,foundarcheologicallyfromsitesdatingfrom8000B.C.,isasmallattractiveyellowandredskinnedtuberwithverymoist, juicyflesh.It iseateninstewsandasanaccompaniment.InPeruyouwilloftenfinditinmarketssoldreadytocookinverythinjulienne.Itmustbeslicedbeforecookingandrinsedinplentyofrunningwatertoremovetheexcessstarch.

Palillo(Curcumalonga)Turmeric(Escobediagrandiflora)Saffron,AndeanSaffron

InPerupalilloreferstocondimentsfromtwodifferentplants,bothusuallysoldintheformofadeepyellowground powder. Inmodern recipes it is not always clearwhich of these two spices is being referred to.PalillocanrefertoCurcumalonga,orturmeric,therhizomeofamemberofthegingerfamily.Ithasbeenusedasacondiment,tocolorandgiveflavortofoods,knownasaningredientofcurryandofmustard,itisalsoadyeandhasmanymedicinaluses.Turmerichasbeeninuseforatleast4000yearsandisoriginallyfrom India and came to Peruwith the Spanish. Palillo can also refer to the bark of the slender roots ofEscobediagrandiflora, a treebelonging to themagnolia family andnative to theAmericas.FatherCobodescribesthispalilloin1653andcallsitAndeansaffronandsaysit isusedasatextiledyeandtoflavorstews.InfactitisoftencalledazafránorsaffronorAndeansaffrontodayinPeru.Truesaffron,however,isthestamenofapurplecrocus,Crocussativa.

PapaSeca(Solanumtuberosum)PreserveddriedPotato

Anotherancientmethodofpreservingpotatoesproducespapaseca.Thepotatoesareboiledfirst,thendriedinthecoldmountainairandsununtiltheyarecompletelyhard.Theyarethenbrokenupintosmallpieces.Inorder tocook them theyare reconstitutedby first roastingordry sautéingand thencooking in liquid.

PapasecaismostcommonlyfoundinthestewCarapulcra.

Potatoes(Solanumtuberosum)

There is a staggering variety of potatoes available in Peru today, over 4000varieties are grownand eachhas a name.The InternationalPotatoCenter inLima has over 5000 varieties of potatoes in its genebank, i‹ncluding wildvarieties. Many other species were also cultivated and have been lost to us.Peruvianpotatoescomeina fascinatingarrayofcolorsandshapesandsizes;fromwhiteandbrightyellowandredtopurpleandblack.Somehavevariegatedcoloring. The potato is very rich in nutrients and current research isinvestigatingitsmedicinalvalue.Potatoesbegantobecultivatedat least8000yearsago.PotatoeswereastapleofancientPeruvianculturesastheycontinuetobetoday.

Unfortunately it’s impossible here to describe the thousands of varieties ofPeruvianpotatoesand their flavorsanduses.Therecipes in thisbookrequiretheyellow-fleshedpapaamarilla,whitepotatoesandsomecolorfulvarietiesofnative potatoes (see Native Potatoes). If you cannot find yellow potatoes,substituteadry,floury-texturedpotatosuchasagoodqualityDesiree.Likewise

King Edwards or Maris Pipers would be good substitutes for the Peruvianvarietiesofwhitepotatodescribedhere.Mixinasmallamountofajíamarillopastetogetthecoloringandflavor.

PapaamarillaYellowPotatoesThePapaamarilla isaverydryfloury-texturedpotatoperfect formakingpureesand thePeruvianpotato

saladcausa.As it isverystarchy it isalsogoodfor frying. It isalwaysboiledwith itsskinonand thenpeeledwhenjustbarelycoolenoughtohandle.Beverycarefulnottoovercook,becausethedelicatefleshdisintegrates easily. Papa amarilla is also boiled and served as an accompaniment for many dishes andsauces.Apartfromthemanydishesmadewithpureedpapaamarilla,itissometimesincludedinsoupsandstews.

Huamantanga(Solanumstenotomumsubsp.goniocalyx)This is a very sought-after Peruvian potato which is only cultivated in the mountains and is thereforeavailableonlyseasonally.Itislongandellipticalinshapewithabrownskin.Thefleshiswhitebuthasthesame texture as yellow potatoes, the skin is easily peeled after cooking. It is good for boiling and alsoincludinginstews.

PapaNativaWhileallpotatoesintheAndesare,properlyspeaking,nativepotatoes,thistermreferstolandracepotatoes.Whilesomestrainshavedisappeared, therearestilla largenumberofancientvarietiesstillcultivatedbyindigenousfarmersathighaltitudesfortheirownuse.Potatoesrarelygrowfromseed;theygrowfromthepotato itself,so there isnochange throughgenerations.The16thcenturychroniclerCobotellsus that insomehighlandzonesthecropsfailsixoutoftenyears;andinmanyplacestheoddshavenotchangedmuchoverthecenturies.Andeanpeopleshavelearnedtospreadtheriskinmanyingeniousways.Oneofthemisto plant several varieties of potatoes in a field in hopes that one or more of the varieties will respondfavorably to the peculiarities of that year’s weather conditions. In the precarious conditions of higheraltitudes,theyplantevenmorevarieties,sometimesasmanyas20or30.Intheunpredictableclimatesomevarietiesmight growwhen the rains are late, others if the rains come early, somemight grow inwetterconditions,someindrier,somearealittlemorefrost-resistantthanothers.Thesepotatoesarecalled“giftpotatoes”bythelocalpeoplebecausetheytraditionallyhavenotgrownthemformarket,theyeatthemandgivethemtoeachother.Eachkindofpotatohasitsspecialrecipesandprovidesasparkofvarietyintheirdiet.Recentlysomeoftheseexoticvarietiesofpotatoeshavebeenbroughttothecommercialmarketwithgreatsuccess.Newvarietyincolorsandshapesandflavorscanbeappreciatedindishessuchasthepurple

potatoesusedinCausadepapamoradaandthePeruvianpinkpotatoesinCabritoorgánicodelafamiliaIgreda.

RedPepperMolle(Schinusmolle)PeruvianRedPepper

ThemolleisanativeAndeanevergreentreewhichgrowsonthecoastanduptoaltitudesof3000meters.The pink-red berries are often sold as “pink pepper” or “Peruvian red pepper” and are used like blackpepper.Molleisalsousedtomakeakindofchicha,boiledtomakesyrupandfermentedtomakevinegar.Theleavesareusedmedicinally.

Plátano Bellaco (Musa paradisiaca) Plantain, CookingBanana

Large,thick-skinnedwithnotverysweetorangeflesh,varietyofplantainorcookingbanana,iseatenfriedor roasted, also boiled andmashedmixedwith chopped onions, fresh cheese andmilk inmalarrabia inPiura,andintacachotypicaloftheAmazontropicalforestarea.

Quinua(Chenopodiumquinoa)

Quinuaisaveryhardyandextremelynutritioussmallgrain,whichlooksalittlelikemillet.Whencooked,thegrainsswellandbecome translucent. Ithasaslightlynutty flavorand isveryversatile. It isgoodbyitself with some butter or oil and seasoning, or as a risotto (see: “Quinoto” in “The Art of PeruvianCuisine”,VolumeI).Itisalsousedtoaddflavorandtexturetosoups,stewsanddesserts.Quinuaneedstobepickedover foranyblackgrainsandextraneousmaterialand then rinsed thoroughly inclean runningwatertogetridofanyofthenatural,bitter,detergent-likesaponins,althoughthecommercialvarietieshavemostly had the saponins bred out of them. There are several colors of quinua, among them red, white,yellow,purple,greyandblack.QuinuahasbeeneatenintheAndesforatleast6000years.(Pictures,white

andredquinua)

Sachaculantro(Eryngiumfoetidum)Culantro

Thisherb,originatingfromthewesternAmazonarea,isofthefamilyApiaceae,whichisthesamefamilyas the coriander. In theU.S. it is called “culantro” to distinguish it from coriander,which is also calledcilantro.Itsflavorisslightlypepperyspicy,andthearomaisverysimilartothecorianderleaf.Itisusedasacondimentandinthepreparationofsaucesandaguardiente.

Sachatomato (Solanum betaceum, also Cyphomandra betacea)TreeTomato,Tamarillo

SachaisaQuechuaprefixmeaning“almost”.Thetextureislikeatomato.ThisfruitisnativetotheAndeanareaandcomesinavarietyofshapesandredandyellowcolorswithaparticularflavorandsubtlearoma.Thefleshofthetamarilloistangyandmildlysweet,andmaybecomparedtokiwifruit,tomato,orpassionfruit. The skin and the flesh near it have an unpleasant bitter taste, and aren’t usually eaten raw. Thetamarillo has been described as having a taste similar to that of a passion fruit and a piquant tomatocombined.Itiseatenfresh,madeintojuiceandincookinggivesauniqueflavorwhenmadeintoacompoteoradded to stews suchasBoeufBourguignon, also tohollandaise sauce, chutneysandcurries.Theyarealso tasty and decorative in, for example, radicchio salads. Appetizing desserts using this fruit includebavaroisand,combinedwithapples,astrudel.

Togarashi(Zanthoxylumpiperitum,Zanthoxylumsimulans,Zanthoxylumsancho)SzechuanRedPeppers,PricklyAshPods

TogarashiistheJapanesewordforsocalledSzechuanredpeppers,whicharenottruechiliesbutarepricklyashpods.ThenameTogarashiisappliedtoagroupofcondimentsthatblendSzechuanpepperswithotheringredients.ShichimiTogarashi:(sevenflavorchilipepper)isaspicyhotJapanesecondiment,whichvariessomewhatdependingonthemanufacturerbutusuallyincludespowderedorflakedredchilipepper,pricklyashpods,blackpepper,yellowandblacksesameseeds,driedortoastedmandarinorangepeel,greennoriseaweed(Porphyraredalgae)flakes,hempseedsandpoppyseeds.Shichimi-togarashiisavailableinhot,mediumandmildstrengthsand is sprinkledovernoodleandnabe (communalone-potmeals)dishesandyakitori.Nanami-Togarashiissimilartoshichimi-togarashi,butfeaturescitruspeel.

ZapalloLoche(Cucurbitamaxima)WinterSquash

The zapallo loche comes in a variety of shapes, colors and sizes. It has a hard uneven skin and brightorange-yellow flesh. The flavor is similar to that of acorn squash and the flesh is similar in texture tobutternutsquashanditcouldbeusedasasubstituteforeitherofthese.Zapallolocheisoneoftheprincipleingredientsused tomake locro,anancientPeruvianstewmade in thesameway todayas ithasbeen forcenturies.

Pisco

AnoldwordfromthelanguageofourIncaancestors,pisscuwasthewordforbirdinQuechua,anditwasalsothenamegiventoanaylluofpottersintheParacasculture,whomadelargeearthenwarestoragejarsknowninSpanishasánforasorbotijas,which,later,alsotookthenameofpiscos.Piscoalsogaveitsnametoavalley,andthustoariverandtoatownanditsseaport,thePortofPisco.AndthatishowthePortofPiscofinallygave itsnameto thedistilled liquor,pisco,whichwasexportedfromthere tootherSpanishcoloniesandtherestoftheAmericasknowntotheEuropeansatthattime.

Pisco,distilledfromhigh-qualitymusts, themustsofrecentlypressedpiscograpes,fromnewwinesfrom the coastal valleysof the regionsofLima, Ica,Arequipa,Moquegua andTacna.Grapesgrown forwine, selected and hand-harvested, gently pressed to extract their most sublime aromas and flavors,carefullyfermentedwithwild,nativeyeasts,distilledincopperstillsusingnon-continuousdistillation,andallowedtoresttranquillyinvesselsthatdonotaltertheiraromaticstructureortheircrystallinecolor.

Pisco,thedrinkofPeru,ardentasthesunonvalleyfieldsamongdeserthills,wateredwiththemeltedicefromsnow-toppedAndeanpeaks,gentleasthefreshbreezethatcomeswiththecolorfulsunsets,sensualasthepassionatedistillers.Pisco,theliquidspiritofanation.

Aromas that call to mind tropical fruit, mango, ripe pineapple, hints of essences of jasmine andcurrants. Velvety softness in the mouth, elegant, structured among flavors that call to mind chocolate,mochaandsultanas,withanincrediblylong,harmoniousfinish.

In each of the eight strains of grapes authorized for making Pisco –some white and others red–harmoniousfantasiesofaromasandflavorscomeintoplay,typicalofthedifferentvineyardsoftheirorigin.ThequebrantagrapefromIca,structuredandsplendorousoffersaromasofstraw,hay,hintsofchocolate,andalongfinishreminiscentoffruitslikethepassionfruitandeggfruit.ThearomaticItaliagrape,withitsriotousaromasofmangoandripepineapple,exuberant,arrogant,andjuvenile,isadornedwithfragrances

of jasmineandsultanas. ThesplendidTorontel incitesuswith its fragrantcitrusnotesof limes, lemons,mandarinorangesandorangeblossoms.TheNegraCriolla, fromTacna, issoberandelegant,withsoftlyherbal touchesandhintsofminerals, like the richnessof thesoil thatnurtures it.And thus, invesselsoftransparent glass, each reflects from its colorless crystalline depths the brilliance of its origin, like pureliquidsilverextractedfromthedepthsofAndeanmines,pouringfromthecrucibleinameltedstate,reflectstheessenceofthehighAndes,theessencesofthedesertvalleyswherethegrapesarelovinglynurturedareneatlyturnedintoourwonderfuldistilledliquor,Pisco,themarvelous,liquidspiritofourPeru.

JohnnySchulerLima,Perú2011

Recipes

Aperitifs

CHILCANODEANÍS

Pedro Miguel Schiaffino comes from a long line of students of Pisco basedcocktails inPeru.Theseexperts includehisown father–a renownedexpertofthe PiscoPunch-Peru’s oldest pisco cocktail. This is one of several signaturedrinksatPedroMiguel’srestaurant,Malabar,inLima.

Ingredients(Serve1)

2ozPiscoPuro(Quebranta)½ozkeylimejuice¾ozstaranisesyrup5dropsAngosturaBittersGingerale

3or4wholestaraniseIce

Preparation

Placealltheingredientsinahighballglasswithiceandfillupwithgingerale.Stirwell.Addthewholestaranise,todecorate.

CHILCANODEPISCO

JaimePesaque, chef atMayta is awidely acclaimed creative young cook.HehasadeliciousrangeofdrinksbasedonPiscoMayta.Herearesomeofthem.

Ingredients(Serve1)

2ozPiscoormaceratedPisco¼ozkeylimejuice¾ozsugarsyrup5or6dropsAngosturaBitters5ozgingeraleortotaste

Ice

ForcinnamonChilcano3½oz(100g)cinnamon

(3sticks)1literpureQuebrantaPisco

ForsaffronChilcano2gsaffron(2strands)1literpureQuebrantaPisco

ForpurplecornChilcanoKernelsfrom2cobsofpurplecorn(removedfromthecob)1literQuebrantaPisco

ForcherryChilcano1/2lb(250g)Maraschinocherries1literQuebrantaPisco

ForgingerChilcano1/2lb(250g)freshginger1literQuebrantaPisco

FormulberryChilcano½lb(250g)mulberries1literQuebrantaPisco

Preparation

Fillatallglasswithiceandthenpourthepiscoormaceratedpiscoovertheice.Add thekey lime juice, the sugar syrup (optional) and theAngosturaBitters.Addthegingeraletotaste.Stirbeforedrinking.

For the cinnamon ChilcanoMix the cinnamon with the pisco and leave tomacerateforbetween7and10days.

ForthesaffronChilcanoMixthestrandsofsaffronwiththepiscoandleavetomacerateforbetween10and15days.

For the purple cornChilcanoMix the purple corn kernelswith thepisco andleave tomacerateforbetween30and45days.Changethepurplecornkernelsevery10days.

ForthecherryChilcanoMixthecherrieswiththepiscoandleavetomacerateforabout30days.Changethecherriesevery10days.

ForthegingerChilcanoMixthegingerwiththepiscoandleavetomacerateforbetween5and7days.

For the mulberry ChilcanoMix the mulberries with the pisco and leave tomacerateforbetween15and20days.

JUGODEGRANADILLAYMANDARINA

Coque Ossio is Marisa Guiulfo’s son and another of Lima’s finest chefs.SchooledandtrainedintheU.S.andEurope,hehasbeenat theCenterof thePeruvianCuisine/fusion revolutions since itbeganoveradecadeago.HeandRafael Osterling –his sous-chef at that time– made of “Ambrosia” the toprestaurantinPeru.Inthisvolumeofthe“ArtofPeruvianCuisine”hegivesusmanyofthetraditionalrecipesthatweweren’tabletoincludeinBookI.HehasrestaurantsinandaroundLimaandinCusco.

Ingredients(Serve1)3oztangerineflesh6ozgranadillaflesh

½tbspwhitesugar3icecubes

Preparation

Removethepulpfromthegranadillasthenpulseafewtimeswithalittlewaterintheblenderandstrain.Squeezeallthejuicepossiblefromthetangerineflesh.

Usingawhisk,mixthetwofruitjuicesinajugwiththewhitesugar.Toserve,addtheicecubes.

MELÓNPISCO

VirgilioMartínezisoneofPeru’stopchefs.Atruecutting-edgefusioncreator,heisalsoadeeplyphilosophicalgastronomicthinkerandintenselyintouchwiththe“terroirs”.AllthishappensmagicallyathisrestaurantCentralinLima.

Ingredients(Serve1)2ozPiscoAcholado½ozpeachliqueur2ozmelonjuice½oztumbo(PassifloratarminianaorPassifloratripartitavar.Mollissima)

juice6icecubes

Preparation:Peelthemelonandremovetheflesh.Blend.Breakopenthetumbo(arelativeofthepassionfruit)andstrain thecontents, rubbing theseedsagainst thestrainerwithaspoon)toobtainthejuice.

Putallof theingredients inacocktailshaker,shakeandserveinamartiniglass.

Tip:Ifnotumboisavailable,trythisrecipewithpassionfruit.

PISCOPUNCH


Ingredients(Serve1)•1tbspof½inpineapplechunks•1½ozPiscoPuro(Quebranta)•1½oz

plainwater•¾ozkeylimejuice•1ozpineapplesyrup•1maraschinocherrywithstem•Ice

Preparation

Firstaddthepineapplechunksthentheremainingingredientsinawhiskeysourglass.Addice.Stir.Addthecherrywithstem,todecorate.

Notes1ozisequivalentto30ml.Forthesyrups,theproportionis42/3cups(1.1liter)ofwaterto5cups(1

kilo)ofsugar.Thewatershouldbefreshlyboiled,thencombinedwiththesugar.Forcertainsyrupssuchasthestaranisesyrup,firstboilthewaterwiththe

staranisethenaddthesugar.Likewise, tomake the pineapple syrup, briefly boil the pineapple chunks

and then add the sugar.Set aside to rest for oneday.The fruit canbeused in thecocktail.Alternatively,use thesyrupandfruit fromcannedpineapplechunks.

DECONSTRUCTEDPISCOSOUR(RAW)

“IadaptedthisdrinkfromoneIlearnedatElBulli2009,takingtheelementsofPiscoSourand creatinganadaptation that hasworkedwell,” explainsDiegoMuñoz,thecreatorofthisdrink,the“deconstructedpiscosour”.

Ingredients(Serves4)

Forthesugarcane•8sticksofsugarcane,2in(5cm)longand½in(1cm)wideandhigh.•3½oz(100ml)pureQuebrantaPisco•1smallvacuumpackbag•1keylimewithgreenskin

Forthegrapesinpisco•12largeseedlessgreengrapes•3½oz(100ml)MostoVerdeItaliaPisco•1vacuumpackbag

Forthesweetlimes•2Persian(Tahiti)limes•1½floz(50gr)water•1/4cup(50gr)whitesugar

•½staranise•1vacuumpackbag

ForthedryBittersmeringue•2eggwhites(60gr)•1½tsp(6gr)icingsugar•DashofAngosturabitters•1bunchofgrapes•1tbsp(3gr)groundcinnamon

Other

Crushedice

Preparation

Makesurethatthesticksofsugarcanearejuicyandofsimilarsize.Puttheminthevacuumbag,addpisco,andpackto100%;keepingthebagat32ºF(0-1ºC).Keepthebagcoldforatleast1hour,butnomorethan2hours.

Whenreadytoserve,arrangethesugarcanesticksonaplate, toppedwiththegratedkeylimepeel,gratedonafineMicroplanegrater.

Wash the grapes, peel them carefully and put them in the bag. Pour thePiscointothebagandsealat80%.Keepat32ºF(0-1ºC).Keepthebagcoldforatleast1hour,butnomorethan2hours.

Peel the Persian limeswith a knife, removing the skin and thewhite partunder it, to obtain clean lime fruit. Remove lime segmentswith the help of aknife,beingcarefulnottocutthemembranes.Calculate3segmentsofthesamesizeperperson.Mixthewaterandsugarandbringtotheboil,addthestaranise,removefromtheheatandallowtocool.Putthesegmentsintothebag,addthesyrupandthelimeskinswithoutanyofthewhitepart.Sealat80%.Setasideinacoldplaceat32ºF(0-1ºC).

Beat the egg whites at high speed to medium-soft peaks, add the sugarslowlyandbeattoobtainafirmmeringue;addthebittersandmixwell.Drythebranchofgrapesinaslowoven,andleaveonlyafewsmallstemswithexactly12grapesconnected.Usingapastrybag,makegrape-shapedmeringues.Drythemeringuesatverylowheattokeepthemwhite.Withthehelpofaclip,makeahole in each merengue and insert them on the stems as if they were grapes.Sprinkleallwithgroundcinnamon.

FinishingandpresentationPlacethecrushediceonaflattray.Interspersethegrapes,sugarcane,andlimesegmentsontheice.Servewiththebunchofmeringue“grapes”.

HowtoeatEatbyturnsthegrapes,Persianlimeandsugarcane,inthatorder,endingwithameringue.

Tip: I like to put themall inmymouth, give thema good chewand swallowthemasashot.Thisenhancestheblendofflavors.

SORBETDECAMUCAMUYMORASDEESTACIÓNALMOSTOVERDE

RosarioAlcortaownsandrunswhatisarguablyLima’sbest-knownpiscobar,Huaringas inMiraflores. She is a renowned authority on pisco and its manyformsandcocktails.Hereisoneofhers.

Ingredients(Serve1)

2ballsofcamucamusorbet1½ozgreenQuebrantapiscomust4tbspmulberries¼ozgreenQuebrantapiscomust

¼ozsugarsyrup1mulberryfordecoration

Preparation

Topreparethecamucamusorbetwithmulberriesingreenmust:Chillamartiniglassinthefreezer.Inanotherglass,mashthemulberrieswithaforkandaddthe¼ozofgreenQuebrantaPiscomust(whichisthepartiallyfermentedjuicefromtheQuebrantagrapeinthePiscomakingprocess)andthe¼ozofsugarsyrup.Separately,blendthecamucamusorbetwiththe1½ozgreenQuebrantaPiscomust.

To serve in the previously chilled martini glass, first place some of themashedmulberriesinthebottomoftheglasscarefullyfollowedbysomeofthecamucamusorbet.Finally,placesomemoreofthemashedmulberriesontopofthesorbet.Useawholemulberrytodecorate.

TINIDEMAIZMORADO

RosarioAlcortaownsandrunswhatisarguablyLima’sbest-knownpiscobar,“Huaringas”inMiraflores.Sheisarenownedauthorityonpiscoanditsmanyformsandcocktails.Hereisoneofhers.

Ingredients(Serve1)

FortheTinideMaízmorado2ozcinnamonQuebrantaPisco2ozapricotQuebrantaPisco2ozchichamorada(purplecorndrink)¼ozCointreau¼ozkeylimejuice

ForthecinnamonQuebrantaPisco17oz(500ml)pureQuebrantaPisco1¾oz(50g)cinnamonsticks

FortheapricotQuebrantaPisco17oz(500ml)pureQuebrantaPisco51/3oz(150g)driedapricots

Forthechichamorada(purplecorndrink)3cobsofpurplecorn1oz(30g)cinnamonsticks5cloves3½oz(100g)pineapple1¾oz(50g)apple(Delicious,sweet)1/3oz(10g)prunes8cups(2liters)water

Preparation

To prepare the cinnamon Quebranta Pisco Place the cinnamon sticks in theQuebrantaPiscoandleavetomaceratefor4weeksthenremovethecinnamon,strain andplace thePisco in anairtight containerorbottle and store in a coolplace.

To prepare the apricot Quebranta Pisco Place the apricots in the QuebrantaPiscoandleavethemtomaceratefor4weeksthenremovethepiecesofapricotandplacethePiscoinanairtightcontainerorbottleandstoreinacoolplace.

TopreparethechichamoradaPlacealloftheingredientsinthewaterinalargesaucepanandbring to aboil.Leave to simmeruntil the liquidhas reducedbyhalf.Once concentrated, strain and let cool.Donot add sugar.Refrigerate thedrink.

Toprepare theTini deMaízmoradoChill amartini glass in the freezer. In acocktailshaker,placesomeiceandalloftheingredients.Shakewell.

Place the well-chilledmixture in the previously chilledmartini glass, making

surethatnoicefallsintheglass.Decoratewithapieceofpurplecorn.

Tip: The above Quebranta Piscos are on sale already prepared in RosarioAlcorta’sbarinMiraflores,BarHuaringas.

TRAMPOSITO

ThisisasignaturedrinkfromPeru’smostfamouschef’sfirstrestaurantAstridyGastón.Gastóngaveus several delicious recipes forBook1andhasdone soagain.Hisgastronomicempire,includingrestaurantsoftheAstridyGastón,LaMar,T’anta,Panchita,MadamTusanconcepts,amongothers,spantheglobe.

Ingredients(Serve1)

2ozPiscoQuebranta¼ozorangejuice1sprigofhuacatay(Tagetesminuta,wildmarigold)½ozsugarsyrup2ozmaracuyá(passionfruit)juice10icecubes

Preparation

Placethesprigofhuacatayina14ozhighballglassalongwith½ozofpassionfruit juice. Gentlymash the sprig against the glass in the juice to release theflavor of the huacatay, then add thePisco, orange juice, sugar syrup and theremainingmaracuyájuice.Beatwiththe10icecubesfor7secondsandserveinthis long glass, leaving the sprig of huacatay against the side of the glass todecorate.

TUNA(PRICKLYPEAR)PISCO


Ingredients(Serve1)

2ozPiscoItalia¼ozHpnotyq(Frenchliqueur)2oztuna(pricklypearcactusfruit)andpepinillo(Solanummuricatum)or

sweetpepinomelonjuice6icecubesSmallamountofwhitesugar

Preparation

Peelthepricklypearfruit(carefullyusingaforktoavoidthesmallspines)andthe pepinomelon andweigh out equal quantities of each. Blend together andthenstrain.Sweetenslightly.

Put all of the ingredients in a cocktail shaker, shake well and serve in amartiniglass.

TUNCHE


Ingredients(Serve1)

2ozPiscoPuro(Quebranta)½ozkeylimejuice1ozjarabedegoma(sugarsyrup)1ozcranberryjuice3ozcoconajuice8dropsofFernetBrancaPinchofsalt1leafofsachaculantro

Ice

Preparation

Placeall the ingredients in ahighball glass (moreor less16oz capacity).Stirwithplentyofice.Placetheleafofsachaculantrointheglass,todecorate,andserve.

TUNCHEDEAGUAYMANTO

RosarioAlcortaownsandrunswhatisarguablyLima’sbest-knownpiscobar,“Huaringas”inMiraflores.Sheisarenownedauthorityonpiscoanditsmanyformsandcocktails.Hereisoneofhers.

Ingredients(Serve1)

FortheTunchedeAguaymanto(Physalisperuvian,capegooseberry)1ozgingerQuebrantaPisco1ozaguaymantoQuebrantaPisco4ozaguaymantojuice¼ozkeylimejuice1ozsparklingwater

Ice1openaguaymantofruitfordecoration

Forthegingerquebranta17oz(500ml)pureQuebrantaPisco1¾oz(50g)peeledginger

FortheaguaymantoQuebrantaPisco17oz(500ml)pureQuebrantaPisco150gaguaymantos

Fortheaguaymantojuice7oz(200g)aguaymantos

Preparation

TopreparethegingerQuebrantaPiscoCutthepeeledgingerintopiecesandplaceintheQuebrantaPiscoandleavetomaceratefor3weeksthenremovethegingerandplacetheliquidinanairtightcontainerorbottleandstoreinacoolplace.

TopreparetheaguaymantoquebrantaPeeltheaguaymantosandplacetheminthe Quebranta Pisco and leave to macerate for 4 weeks then remove theaguaymantosandplacetheliquidinanairtightcontainerorbottleandstoreinacoolplace.

Toprepare the aguaymanto juicePeel the aguaymantos then blend in blenderandstrain.Setasidethejuice.

TopreparethetuncheChillatallglassinthefreezer.Inacocktailshaker,placesomeiceandalloftheingredients.Shakewell.

ToservePlace thewell-chilledmixture in thepreviouslychilledglassandusetheopenaguaymantotodecorate.

Tip: The above Quebranta Piscos are on sale already prepared in RosarioAlcorta’sbarinMiraflores,BarHuaringas.

Horsd’ouvres&Appetizers

AJÍLIMOCONFITADO,ATÚNYMILHOJASDEQUESODECABRAY

COCA



Topreparetheajílimo

4ajílimo½cup(100g)whitesugarWater

Fortheajílimopreserves8ajílimoWater¾cup(150g)whitesugar

Forthetunafishtartar6oz(160g)freshtuna2tbsp(20g)choppedwhiteonion1tsp(5g)mincedcilantro1tsp(5g)mincedparsley1tbsp(15ml)oliveoilJuiceof2keylimes2tsp(10g)ajílimopreserve

Forthemilhojas(millefeuille)5oz(150g)goatcheese

Forthecocabread(motherdoughrecipe)1lb(500g)breadflourorallpurposeflour3tbsp(20g)yeast1cup(250ml)water2pounds(1kg)breadflourorallpurposeflour9tbsp(60g)freshyeast2oz(60g)cocaflour1½cups(300g)whitesugar3tbsp(45g)salt7oz(200g)butter1¼cups(300ml)freshmilk1recipemotherdoughrecipe

ForthedecorationLeavesofredclover

Preparation

To prepare the ají limoWith a sharp knife, cut off the top of the ajíes thenremovethemembranesandseedsbyusingaspoonsoastomaintaintheshapeof theají limo. Set the tops aside. Put the ajíes in a saucepan and coverwithwaterand1teaspoon(13g)ofsugarandbringtoaboil.Changethewaterandrepeatthisprocess7times.Straintheajíesandsetaside.

Toprepare the ají limopreservesWith a sharpknife, remove anddiscard themembranesandseedsoftheajíesthenplacetheminasaucepancoveringthemwithwaterandadding1teaspoon(13g)ofsugar.Bringtoaboilandrepeatthisprocess 7 times (changing thewater each time) so that the ajíes are no longerspicy.Puttheajíesinasaucepanandadd4teaspoons(50g)ofsugarandcookfor15minutes.Blendandpassthroughafine-meshsieve.

To prepare the fresh tuna tartar Cut the tuna fish in brunoise and add thechoppedonion,minced coriander andparsley.Mixwell and add theoliveoil,keylimejuiceandtheajílimopreserves.

TopreparethecocabreadmotherdoughPutalltheingredientsinthebowlofanelectricmixer.Mixwelluntilyouhaveanhomogenousdough.Putinabowlandcoverwithclingfilm.Setasideforabout1hour.

TopreparethecocabreadPutalltheingredientsincludingthemotherdoughinthebowlofanelectricmixer.Mixwelluntilyouobtainahomogenousdough.Remove,rolloutandcutcubesofdoughmeasuring1/8x1/16x1/8in(3x2x3mm).Leavethesetoriseinawarmplacefor3hours.Bakeintheovenat340ºF(170ºC)for7minutes.Alternatively,youcanplaceallofthedoughina2kilobread tin and cook for approximately 25 minutes or until a golden crust hasformedonthebread.Oncecool,cutthebreadintoidenticalslicesandtoast.

ToserveFilltheajílimoswiththefreshtunatartarandplaceonadinnerplate.

Make a “mille feuille” with 4 thin crunchy toasted slices of the coca breadalternating with 3 layers of the goat cheese. Place this to one side of the ajípreserves.Ontheothersideplacealittlefreshtunatartar.Usethetopoftheajílimoandredclovertodecorate.

Note:MostofVirgilio’srecipesareforexperiencedchefsordedicatedamateurswhohaveallthenecessaryequipment,buttheyaredelicious!

ALBÓNDIGASDELANGOSTINOSENSALSALIGERADENARANJAS

YakirSatoisafirstrateyoungchefwhoworkswithhisfather,Humberto,chefcreatorofCostanera700-apioneeringPeruvianseafoodfusionrestaurant.


Forthesauce1cupmayonnaise2/3cup(190g)condensedmilk3tbsp(40g)whitesugarJuiceof1keylimeJuiceof¼orangePinchofsalt

Forthecoatedshrimptails1quart(1liter)vegetableoil½cupcornstarch1¾lb(800g)cleanedshrimptails16largeshrimptails2tbspcornstarch1tspsalt½tspgroundwhitepepperToastedblacksesameseedsCrunchyshoestringcarrots

Preparation

To prepare the creamy saucePlace themayonnaise in a bowl alongwith thecondensedmilk,sugar,orangeandkeylimejuicesandthesalt.Withthehelpofaspoon,mixwelluntilalloftheingredientsareintegrated.Makethissaucejustwhenyouarereadytouseittoavoidtheformationofsugarcrystalswhichcangivethecondensedmilkagrainytexture.

TopreparetheshrimpballsBlendthe1¾lb(800g)ofcleanedshrimptailsinablender until they form a smooth paste. Season with salt and pepper and setaside.Formintoballsabout2½inchesacross(6cms.)Coverthelargeshrimpballswiththecreamysauceandthendipincornstarch.

Heattheoilinafryingpanoveramediumheat.Frytheshrimpballsfor3minutes or until they are golden. Remove and drain excess oil on absorbentpaperkitchentowel.

ToserveHeat the remainingsauce.Place4coatedshrimp tailsoneachdinnerplate and pour some warm sauce on them. Sprinkle with the toasted blacksesame seeds and place some crunchy shoestring carrots to one side of theshrimps.

ALMEJADELBIGOTE

“Elbigote”isthenicknameofthiswonderfuldish’screator.ItisalsothenameofhiseponymousrestaurantinLima.Relishthefreshness.


12clams7oz(200g)mushroomsCookedkernelsofcornfrom1earoffreshcorn1cupoffinelymincedredonion1tbspmincedajílimo1tbspcilantro,choppedSaltandpeppertotaste3tbspoliveoilCrushedgarlictotaste

1stalkofcelery,finelydiced½cupofkeylimejuice

Preparation

Carefullywashthemushroomsandcutthemintofineslices.

Clean the clams, removing the clams from the shells and dice in small cubes.Oncecleaned,donotthrowawaytheshells.Select4oftheshellsandsetaside.

Inamedium-sizedbowl,mixthechoppedclamswiththemushrooms,theonion,thefinelymincedají limo, thecookedkernelsofcornandthecilantro.Seasonwithsalt,pepper,oliveoil,crushedgarlic,finelydicedceleryandfinally,thekeylimejuice.

ToserveFillthe4shellswiththeabovemixture,placingtheequivalentof3clamsineachshell.

ATÚNCARPACCIOTOSHI–STYLE

ToshiroisoneofPeru’sgreatNikkeichefsandacolleagueofNobu’swhentheyboth came to Lima from Japan in the 1970’s. Toshi is amaster of Japanese-Peruvianfusioncuisine.


11oz(300g)freshtunasteakswithbonesandnervesremoved2lbs(1kilo)salt2tbspextravirginoliveoilApinchofdriedshiso(perilla),totaste2cups(500ml)ricevinegar,chilledto32-41ºF(0-5ºC)JapaneseturnipsproutsSalt,totaste

Forthesauce4tbspredonion,finelyminced1-2tsp(5-10g)ajílimo,finelyminced,totaste1tbspfinelymincedcelery½tbspmincedcilantro4tbspToshi-stylelechedetigre

Preparation

Firstly,yourpieceoftunashouldbecutagainstthenervesothatitisabout1in(3cm)thickby2in(5cm)wideand8in(20cm)long(thepiecemaybealittlebitbiggerorsmaller–thisisanapproximatesize).CoverthepieceoftunawithPLENTYofsalt(makesurethatthefishiscompletelycoveredandwhite)andset aside for 50 minutes. Next, wash the fish thoroughly and place it in acontainer alongwith the chilled sake vinegar.Marinate for 40minutes in therefrigerator.Whenyou remove the fish from the refrigerator, youwill need tocutitinveryfineslices(about1/8in(3-4mm),likecarpaccio.

TopreparetheToshi-stylelechedetigre,seelink.

TopreparethesauceMixtheonion,celery,cilantro,ajílimoandthe lechedetigre.

ToserveSlicethepiecesof tunaveryfinelyandplacetheseonadinnerplate.Place¼teaspoonofthesauceoneachsliceoftuna.Coverwiththeoliveoilandfinish by adding some of the dried shiso (Perilla frutescens, amember of themintfamily).Usesprigsofturnipsproutstodecorate.

ATÚNTATAKI,ESCABECHEDEYACÓNYTORRIJADECOCA,SHOT

DEARAZÁ



Topreparethetuna¾lb(320g)freshtuna½tsp(3g)salt1tsp(5g)groundblackpepper2tsp(10ml)oliveoil

Fortheescabeche(cookedonionsauce)2tbsp(30ml)oliveoil1ajíamarillo½redonion½rocoto1tbsp(15g)tomatopaste12/3tbsp(25g)ajíamarillopaste1tbsp(15ml)sherryvinegar1tsp(5g)mincedgarlic1tsp(5g)mincedfreshginger1sprigofcilantro1tsp(5g)salt½tsp(3g)groundblackpepper¾oz(20g)yaconsyrup7/8cup(200ml)darkmeatstock

ForthecocaFrenchtoast½wholeegg4eggyolks1½tsp(8g)cornstarch½tsp(3g)bakingpowder1tbsp(15g)cocaflour

FortheLechedeTigrebase3tbsp(30g)whiteonion,chopped½tsp(2g)garlic¼tsp(1g)freshginger3tbsp(20g)celery1tsp(5g)salt2tsp(10ml)water

ForVirgilio’sLechedeTigre4tbsp(60g)Tiger’sMilkbaseJuiceof1arazá(Eugeniastipita)Juiceof½lb(250g)keylimes1tsp(5g)salt2sprigsofcoriander1ajílimocutinhalf

Preparation

Preheatovento300ºF(150ºC).

TopreparethefreshtunaCutthefreshtunain4perfectrectanglesthenseasonwithsaltandpepper.Sealonall4sidesinaveryhotfryingpanusingtheoliveoil.

TopreparethecookedonionsauceCuttheonion,theajíandtherocotoinsmallbrunoise thensautéoverahighheat.Removefromthepanandsetaside.Mix

thegarlicandthegingerandbrownforafewseconds.Mixinthetomatoandajípaste then add the yacon (Smallanthus sonchifolia) syrup (available insupermarketsandhealthfoodstores)andleavetoreduce.Usethesherryvinegartodeglazethenaddthebeefstock,thesprigofcilantro,saltandpepper.

TopreparethecocaFrenchtoastWhisktogethertheeggyolkswiththewholeegguntiltheyaretripleinvolume.Foldinthecornstarchandthebakingpowder.Finally,sievethecocaflourthenadd.Mixwell.Placeinamouldcoveredwithgreaseproof paper and cook in the oven at 300ºF (150ºC) for 45minutes.Cutinto1inch(3cm)cubes.

Toprepare theLeche deTigre base and theLeche deTigreBlend the onion,garlic,ginger,celery,saltandwatertogether.Removeandplaceinabowlwiththesprigsofcilantro.

Topreparethearazájuice,firstpeelthearazáandremoveasmuchfleshaspossiblethenprocessthefleshintheblender.

Mixthebasewiththearazáandkeylimejuicesandleavetostandforafewsecondswiththeajílimohalves.Checkforsalt.

ToserveHeatthecocaFrenchtoastandcoverwithalittlesugarandcaramelizethetopusingthebruléemethod.

Thefreshtunashouldbecutinsashimi-styleslicesandputontheplatecold.Thecookedonionsauceshouldbespreadaroundtheplateatroomtemperature.SeparatelyserveashotofthearazáTiger’sMilk.

Note:MostofVirgilio’srecipesareforexperiencedchefsordedicatedamateurswhohaveallthenecessaryequipment,buttheyaredelicious!

BUTIFARRAROMANA/BRUSCHETTACRIOLLA

UgoPlevisani,co-creatoroftheLaTrattoriachainofrestaurants,tellsus:“Intheshops,youcanfindexcellentvacuumpackedItalianporchettasbutitismuchmorefuntoprepareyourownifyouhaveagoodbutcherwhowillprovideyouwithagooddebonedsaddleofayoungpigincludingtheskin.InCentralItalyyoung pigs are spit-roasted and this is used in making the most popularsandwich tobe foundaccompanied,ofcourse,by itscharacteristicperfumeofgarlicandwildfennel.”


41/2lbs(2kg)orhalfasaddleofdebonedporkoraporkloinwithskirt,fatandporkrindstillintact

2tsp(10g)saltfromMaras(orrocksalt),crushedinmortar

2tsp(10g)wholepeppercorns2tsp(10g)fennelseeds1ajípancadried½headgarlic(unpeeledcloves)1cup(250ml)whitewine1cup(250ml)salsacriolla4sliceshomemadepeasantbread1cup(250g)ajíamarillomayonnaise4tbsp(60ml)oliveoil1sprigofrosemarySaltandpepperStringfortying

Ajíamarillomayonnaise1eggyolk7tbsp(100ml)vegetableoil2tbsp(30ml)oliveoil1tbspDijonmustard7tbsp(100g)ajíamarillo2tbspwhitewinevinegar1cloveofgarlic(peeled)

SalsacriollaMakehalfoftherecipeshownonlinkandadd:

1tomatocutinjuliennePeppertotaste

ExtraSweetpotatoshoestringpotatoes

Preparation

Wrap thehalfheadofgarlic in foil orput it in a terra cottagarlic roaster and

roastforapproximately40minutesat300ºF(150ºC).Leavetocoolthenremovethecreamygarlicbycuttingthetipsoftheclovesandsqueezingthewholehead.Crush thepeppercorns, fennel seedsandajípanca inamortaruntil the fennelbeginstogiveoffitscharacteristicaroma.

To prepare themeatRemove any excess skirt from the saddle and smear thewholeoftheinsidewiththemixtureofspices,herbsandcreamygarlic.UsetheMaras (or rock) salt to season. Roll themeat so that the skirt is covering thesaddle or loin. Cover with plastic wrap and leave in a cool place or in therefrigeratorfortheflavorstopenetrateforseveralhoursorovernight.

Whenthemeathasmarinated,lightlysaltandpeppertherind.Preheatovento350ºF(180ºC).Tiethesaddleofporkwithstring(removingtheplasticwrap),rubwitholiveoilandroastonarackfor20minutes.Placeabakingpanbelowthe rack to catch all of the juices. Place the rosemary in the baking pan.Occasionally sprinkle the saddlewith thewhitewine and pan juices, turn themeat andmake sure the baking pan never dries out. Transfer themeat to theupperpartoftheoven(broiler),increasethetemperaturetobrownthemeatuntiltheinternaltemperaturereaches160ºF(72ºC).

Removethemeatandsetasidetocool.Skimanyexcessfatfromthejuicesandsetthisasideinabowl.Whenthemeatiscool,cutintofineslices.

Toast the slices of bread, rubwith a clove of garlic, coverwith slices ofporchetta, ají mayonnaise, pan juices and salsa criolla, accompany withshoestringsweetpotatoes.

TopreparetheajíamarillomayonnaisePlacetheeggyolk,mustard,oneteaspoonofthevinegarandsaltinabowlorablenderandemulsifytogetherwiththevegetableoilandoliveoiladdingtheoilsinaslowstream.Removeanddiscardtheveinsandseedsfromtheajíamarilloandboilinverylittlewaterwiththeremainingvinegarandacloveofgarlic.Blendthepeppersandgarlicandaddthispuréetothemayonnaiseaddingsaltasneeded.

TopreparetheSalsacriollaFollowtherecipeasindicatedonthelink,addingthetomatoattheendandusingthe(black)peppertoseason.

CARPACCIODEOLLUCO

PedroMiguel Schiaffino is an intense and notable student and practitioner ofPeruvianfusion.Hisrecipes,showcasedathis“Malabar”–oneofLima’smostimportantrestaurants,areoftenorientedtowardtheAmazonandthefoodsandingredientsofthePeruvianJungle.


½lb(200g)alpacahaminverythinslices1oz(20g)mixedsaladgreens1oz(20g)leeks,whitepartonly,cutinjulienne3/4oz(20g)ajíamarillo,cutinjulienne3/4oz(20g)ajílimo,cutinjulienne3tbsp(10g)freshparsleyleaves,minced5tsp(20ml)vegetableoil

Fortheollucoconfit1lb(500g)largeollucos3cups(750g)duckfat

Forthecharquisauce2/3cup(150g)finelydicedwhiteonion1cup(100g)extravirginoliveoil1tbsp(10g)crushedgarlic5½tbsp(80g)ajípancapaste3½tbsp(50g)ajíamarillopaste1tbsp(20g)redwinevinegar2tbsp(5g)driedoregano2tsp(5g)blackpepper1bayleaf7oz(200g)charqui,partiallydesalted6tbsp(20g)mincedfreshparsley½cup(100ml)darkmeatstock

Preparation

Tomake theolluco confitPlace theduck fat in a saucepan andheat to 160ºF(70ºC). Put theollucos in the fat and cook themmaking sure tomaintain thetemperatureat160ºF(70ºC)for20minutes.Removefromsaucepanandleavetocool.

TopreparethecharquisauceCookoveralowheat,stirringconstantly,theoliveoil, onion, crushed garlic, ají panca paste and ají amarillo paste to make asoffritto or base for the charqui sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Add themeat stock, bay leaf, oregano and the charqui.Cook slowly until the liquid isreducedbyhalf.Addthevinegarandpassthroughafine-meshedstrainer.Leavetocool.Toserve,useamandolintocuttheollucosintoveryfineslices.Theyshouldbetranslucent.Placeonadinnerplate.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Usingaspoon,covertheollucowithaveryfinecoatingofsauce.Placethealpacahamandtheajíesamarilloscutinjulienneontopoftheollucos.Dressthegreensaladwithaclassicvinaigretteandplaceinthecenteroftheplate.

Heatthevegetableoilandgentlyfrytheleekuntilgoldenbrownandcrisp.Addsalt to taste.Finally,place themincedparsleyon theplatealongwith the

friedleekandmixedsaladgreens.

Tip:Fryleekjustbeforeservingsoitretainsitscrunchiness.

CONCHASATÓMICAS

This is Rafael Osterling’s re-invention of our famous “Conchas a laParmesana”butwith thesubtletyof thegrillwhichenhances the flavorof thescallopduetothefactthatitisastrongcookingmethodwhichisfastandsealsinthejuices.


42largescallopsandshellsOliveoilSeasaltGroundpepper

Fortheatomicbutter3oz(80g)GranPadanoParmesancheese15oz(420g)unsaltedbutter120mlwhitewine12clovesofgarlicconfitpuréed

Forthepuréedgarlicconfit(onlyuse¼ofthemixture)48clovesofgarlic1½oz(40g)finelyslicedbacon1bayleaf1¾cups(400g)oliveoil

Preparation

TopreparethegarlicconfitParboiltheclovesofgarlicthreetimesstartingwithcoldwatereachtime.Whenthewatercomestoaboilremovethegarlicandstartagain.Refreshundercoldrunningwaterthendrywell.Placetheclovesofgarlicinasmallsaucepan togetherwith thebacon,bay leafandoliveoil.Cookoverlowheatfor30to40minutesor,alternatively,intheovenat212ºF(100ºC)for1¼hours.Leavetocoolintheoil.Removeanddiscardthebaconandplacetheclovesofgarlicandtheoilinahermeticcontainer.Ifleftintherefrigerator,thegarlicclovescanbekeptforuptoonemonthandtheoilwillbegreatforusinginmanydifferentways.

TopreparetheatomicbutterPlacethewhitewineinasmallsaucepanandheatuntilitcomestoaboil.Removefromtheheat.Waituntilitcoolsbeforeusing.

Beatthebutter,Parmesancheeseandthegarlicconfituntilitissmoothandcreamy.Incorporatethewine,mixwellandsetasideinthefridge.Takeoutofthefridge10minutesbeforeusing.

ToserveHeatthecharcoalgrilland,onceitisquitehotbutnotsmoking,itcanbeused.

Cleanandwashthescallopswithoutremovingthemfromtheirshells.Brushthemwiththeoliveoil,seasonwithseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper.Placethe

scallopsfacedownwiththeirshellsontoponthegrillfor15seconds.Turnthemover shell side down and place a little of the atomic butter on each scallop,approximately1tablespoonperscallop,thenwaitforthebuttertobubble.Thislastpartshouldbecarriedoutinsmallbatches.

Serveimmediately.

Note:Servewith slicesofkey lime andusingoneof the small basil leaves todecorate.

CROCANTEAMAZÓNICO

Flavio Solorzano brings us these delicious recipes, often with a touch of theAndes or theAmazon.Heandhismother, Isabel, ownand run one of Lima’sgreattraditionalfarerestaurants:ElSeñoríodeSulco.


20wontonwrappers7oz(200g)cecina(salted,smokedair-driedmeat)11/3lb(600g)Dambocheese4ripebellacobananasAllpurposeflourWaterOil

Coconasauce4coconas,diced1redonion,diced8ajíCharapitaSpringonionsSachaculantroSalttotaste

Preparation

CutthedriedmeatandtheDambocheeseinstickstofitinthewontonwrapper.Setaside.

Boilthebananasintheirskinsfor20minutes.Leavetocool.Peelandcutinsticks.Setaside.

Mixsomeflourwithalittlewatersoastoformathickpaste.Placestripsofsalted smokedmeat, cheese and banana on eachwontonwrapper and use theflourpastetoseal.

Fryinplentyofoilat160ºCfor5minutesoruntiltherollsaregolden.

To prepare the cocona sauce Finely mince the ají Charapita and thesachaculantro. Peel the coconas. Remove the seeds and extract the juice bypressing it against a sieve. Dice the cocona flesh and mix with the otheringredients.

ToservePlace4crunchyrollsinthecenterofadinnerplateandgarnishwiththecoconasauce.

POMPONESDEMASCARPONE

JannVanOordt’sdeepfriedpomponsmadeofstrandsofphyllodough-wrappedballsofscallopsandmascarponeplacedonsweetmisosauceandrefreshedwithkeylimejuice.AsmallroundpieceofHeaven!


4oz(120g)scallops4oz(120g)mascarpone½cup(50g)plainflour2eggs5oz(150g)ofphyllodough½cup(120g)sweetmisosauce4keylimesOilforfrying

Sweetmisosauce1cup(1/4liter)whitewine1cup(250g)sugar1/4cup(60g)clearmisosauce11/4tsp(50ml)soysauce

Preparation

Removeanddiscard thecoral,cut thescallops in1cmcubesandmixwith themascarpone(orothercreamcheese)andmake8ballsweighingapproximately1oz (30gr) each. Cut the phyllo dough in extremely thin strips. Separate eachstrip.Coateachballinflourandthenthebeateneggandfinishbycoveringthemwiththestripsofphyllodough.

Deepfrythe8pomponsinoil.

To make the sweet miso sauce Reduce the ingredients over low heat to theconsistencyofhoney.

ToservePlaceeachballonaspoonontopofthepreviouslyheatedsweetmisosauce.Beforeserving2ballsperperson,refreshwithdropsofkeylimejuice.

PULPOAGRIDULCE

YakirSatoisafirstrateyoungchefwhoworkswithhisfather,Humberto,chefcreatorofCostanera700–apioneeringPeruvianseafoodfusionrestaurant.


Forthesauce8Chileanplums(largeblackorpurpleplumswithyelloworredflesh)2tbspfreshgingerjuicefrom4inch(10cm)pieceofginger2cupredwinevinegar1cupwater8tbsptomatoketchup8tbspwhitesugar4tbspcornstarch1mincedajíamarillo,withoutseedsorveins4tbspshoyu(Japanesesoysauce)

Fortheoctopus14oz(400g)boiledoctopus4tbspshoyu(Japanesesoysauce)2tsppuréedgarlic8tbspplainflourGroundwhitepepperVegetableoilMincedcilantro

Preparation

First,peelthepieceoffreshgingerthengrate.Squeezethegratedgingerinyourhand orwith the back of a spoon against a fine-meshed strainer to obtain thegingerjuice.

Peeltheplumsandpuréetheflesh.

TopreparethesauceBoilthevinegarwiththewaterthenaddthesugarsothatyou obtain a sweetish flavor. Add ½ tbsp of ginger juice and the previouslypuréedplumstoformathickpuréethenaddthemincedajíamarillo.Boilfor5minutes over a low heat then add a stream of shoyu (Japanese soy sauce).Correctseasoning.

Dilutethecornstarchwithalittlewaterandputalittlesauceintothismixture,thenpourintothesaucewhilestirringandcookforfewminutestothicken.

The sauce should have the consistencyof sweet and sour sauce and shouldhaveaverystrongsweet-sourflavor.

TopreparetheoctopusCleantheoctopusthoroughly.Cutinapproximately½in(1 cm) thick slices then put in a saucepan and coverwithwater.Cook over amediumheatfor45minutes.

Inadeepbowl,placetheshoyu,thepuréedgarlicandthewhitepepper.Stirwellandaddthecookedoctopus.Letmarinatefor10minutesthenremoveandcoattheoctopusinflour.

Heatafryingpanwithplentyofoilthenfrytheoctopusuntilgolden.Removewithaslottedspoon.

ToservePlacethefriedoctopusinthemiddleofadinnerplate.Pourthesauceoveritandfinally,sprinklewiththemincedcilantro.

ROLLOSDETACUTACU

JanaEscuderoisayoungchefwhobeganmakingsandwichesinastorelocatedinhergrandfather’sgasstation.Aftertwelveyears,shenowrunstherestaurantElGrifo,acheerfulrestaurant that’salwayspackedwithhappydiners.This isoneofherdishes.


2cupsoftacutacu2palillocookingbananas1cup(250ml)vegetableoil12slicesSpanishSerranohamorprosciutto12quaileggyolks1smallredonion1ajíamarillo

4tbspoliveoilSaltandpeppertotaste½cuppanjuicesofsautéedtenderloin

Forthetacutacu2cupsofcanary(GreatNorthernorCannellini)beans1cupofporkjowl1cupofcookedajíamarillo2cupsofcookedwhiterice(Arrozalaperuana)4tbspoliveoil1tspofroastedgarlicSalt,pepperandoreganototaste

Preparation

TopreparethetacutacuCoverthecanary(GreatNorthernorCannellini)beansinwaterandleavetosoakovernight.Thefollowingday,boilthemwiththeporkjowlforaboutonehouroruntiltender.Takehalfofthebeansandbrieflypuréeinblenderorfoodprocessor.Mixthepureedbeanswiththewholeonesinapotandcookalittlelonger,beingcarefultonotletthemburn.

Mix all the ingredients for the tacu tacu well and make little ballsapproximately1¼in(3cm)indiameterandfrythemuntilgoldenintheoliveoilinanon-stickfryingpan.

Cutthebananain½in(1½cm)thickroundsandfryinplentyofvegetableoil.

Chop the onion andají amarillo and add salt, pepper and olive oil to themix.

To serveWrap the tacu tacuballs in theSerranohamandplaceon topof thebananarounds.Thedicedonionshouldbeplacedontopofeachtacutacuballandfinallyaquaileggyolkontopofthis.

Pouralittleofthehottenderloinjuiceonadinnerplateandplacethetacutacuroll(ontopofthebanana)inthemiddleofthesauce.

Tip:Foraslightlymilderflavor,useprosciuttohaminsteadofserranoham.Frythequaileggsthenremovethewhitepartservingonlytheyolk.

SANDWICHDECHICHARRÓNZAFADO

Rafael Osterling is one of Peru’s very best chefs and to my mind, wouldcertainlybemulti-starredifMichelin’sRedGuidecoveredPeru.Hiscreativityblended with unerring and truly delicious execution, make his restaurants,Rafael and Mercado among them, some of the best in town. This is one ofMercado’s.


6oz(160g)pancettachicharrón12shrimp(size36-40tothepound),cleanandwiththeintestinalvein

removed3leavesAmerican(iceberg)lettuce

6miniFrench-stylerolls½cupmayonnaise1/3cupHuancaínasaucewithajíamarillo1/3cupHuancaínasaucewithrocoto(usetheaboveHuancaínasauce

ingredientsbutsimplyreplacetheajíamarillowith3rocoto)½avocado2cupspotatostarchorcornstarch1litervegetableoilSeasaltFreshlygroundpepper

ForthePancetachicharrón2lbs(1kg)freshpancetta2sprigsofsage12clovesofgarlicwiththepeellefton1½cups(350ml)oliveoil1tbspseasalt3tsp(12g)groundwhitepepper

ForRafael’ssalsacriolla1redonion,finelyslicedandwashedtwiceinplentyofwater½ajílimo½ajíamarillo2tbspcilantroleavesJuiceof4keylimes6tbspoliveoilSeasalttotasteFreshlygroundpepper

Preparation

To prepare the panceta chicharrónRemove the skin from the fresh pancetta

(porkbelly)andplacethepancettainamedium-sizedsaucepanandcoverwithwater.Addthesage,garlicandpepperandcookonmediumheat.Onceitcomestoaboil,skimoffallof the impurities thatappearonthesurfaceof thewater.Let cook for 30 minutes, skimming constantly. Add the olive oil, lower tominimumheat andcookuntil allof thewaterhasevaporatedand thepancettabeginstoconfitslightly,approximately1¼to1½hours.Removefromtheheat,waituntilitcoolsthenremovethegarlicandthesagefromthepan.Setasidethepancettachicharróntogetherwiththethickenedoilinatightlyclosedcontainerintherefrigerator.Thiswillkeepfor3days.

To prepare the salsa criolla Cut the ají limo and ají amarillo in 4 then toremove the membranes and seeds. Soak the pieces of ají limo in cold waterbeforeusing.Place theonion,ajíamarillo andají limo in abowl then seasonwith salt andpepperandmixwell.Addthekeylimejuiceandoliveoilthenmixonceagain.Finishbyaddingthecilantro.

To serveHeat the vegetable oil in a frying pan to 350ºF (180ºC). Season thepotatostarchorcornstarchand thencoat theshrimp in thismixture.Shakeoffany surplus starch and fry until golden and crunchy, approximately 3 to 5minutes.

Thinly slice the avocado. Slightly heat the bread. Cut up the pancettachicharrónandbrowninafryingpanoronagrill.Spreadmayonnaiseonbothhalvesoftherollthenonthebottomhalfoftherollplaceavocadoslices,chicharrón,shrimp, thetwoHuancaínasauces, thesalsacriollaandfinishbyplacingalettuceleafontop.Coverwiththetophalfoftherollandserve.

SANDWICHESDEPEJERREY

ThisisaclassicofthePeruvianCoast.Docksidelunchcountersandrestaurantsallalong2,200kmsofCoastserveversionsofthissandwich.ThisisCoque’s.


½salsacriollarecipe

Forthesandwiches4rolls(bread)2tbsphomemademayonnaise4tbspajíamarillopaste1iceberglettuce1avocado8silversides4tbspplainflour4tbsplargebreadcrumbs1eggSaltandpeppertotaste1cup(200ml)vegetableoil

Preparation

Makehalfofthesalsacriolla,addingchoppedparsleyleaves.Mixthehomemademayonnaisewiththeajíamarillopaste.

Cuttheavocadoinflatslices.Clean the silversides and season them with salt and pepper. First dip in

flour,theninbeateneggandfinallyinthelargebreadcrumbs.Heattheoilinafryingpanandwhenitishot,frythesilversidesuntilthey

areadeepgoldencolor.

To serveOpen the roll and spread theají amarillomayonnaise onboth sides.Place a sliceof lettuceon thebottomhalf followedby the avocado slices andfinally 2 deep-fried silversides. Cover the whole with the salsa criolla beforeclosingyoursandwich.

TRÍODEABREBOCAS:

CUBOSDEATÚNBRULÉECONJUGODECOCONAYTOBIKO

ThisappetizerisoneoftheMalabar’sclassics.Thebalancebetweentheacidityand sweetness of the cocona perfectly complements the natural oils andsweetnessofouryellowfintuna.Onsearingitwithsugarwemanagetoconferaslightlycrunchysmokedtouchthatisenhancedbythetobiko.

Ingredients(Makes8skewers)

6oz(160g)freshfilletoftuna,cutin8cubes2tsp(10g)whitesugar2tsp(10g)tobiko(flyingfishcaviar)1leafofsachaculantro

8thinbambooskewers

Forthecoconajuice2largepeeledcoconas,cutin4¼cupofvirginoliveoil

Forthetiraditojuice2charapitaají,veinsremoved,chopped2½cups(300g)choppedredonion2leavesofsachaculantro,chopped31/2oz(100g)piecesofwhite-fleshedfish,withoutskin1clovegarlic1tsp(5g)ginger,peeledandminced½stalkcelery,choppedJuiceof16keylimesHondashiSaltandpeppertoflavorIce

Preparation

Cook the cocona in boiling water with salt and sugar to taste for about 25minutes,untilverytender.Leavetocoolandputthroughblenderwiththeoliveoil.Strain.Mixallof the ingredients for the tiradito juice inabowl.Season to tastewithsalt, pepper and hondashi. Place in a blender, pulse 3 times, do not blend toomuch.Passthroughafinemeshstrainer.Returnstrainedtiraditojuicetoblender,finish by blending the tiradito juice with the cocona juice. Set aside in therefrigerator.Put the sugaronaplate.Dipeachcubeof tuna in the sugarononesideonly.Place the cubesof tuna sugar sideupon a flat fireproof surface, sear the sidewiththesugarwithablowtorch.Placethecubesonbambooskewersandseasonwithsalt.Toserve,fillshotglasseswiththecocona juiceandfinishbyaddingthe cubes of seared tuna. Decorate with the flying fish caviar and choppedsachaculantro.

TRÍODEABREBOCAS:BARQUILLOSCONCONCHAS

CHILI-MAYO

ThisispartoftheMalabarrestaurant’sclassicappetizerTriodeAbrebocas.

Ingredients(Makes12cornettes)12freshscallopswithoutcoral1keylimeSaltandpepper6tbspdicedavocado1tbspoliveoil2springrollwrappers

Forthechili-mayosauce1cuphomemademayonnaise1finelychoppedhard-boiledegg4tbspfinelychopped,washedanddrainedredonion1tbspmincedparsley

4tbspajíamarilloandChinesefermentedgarlicsauceSalttotaste

Preparation

Seasontheavocadowithsalt,pepper,oliveoilandafewdropsofkeylimejuice.Setaside.

For thechili-mayosauce,mix themayonnaise,onion, choppedegg,parsleyandajíamarilloandChinesegarlicsauce.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Setasideintherefrigerator.

TomakethecornettesUsingametaltube,wrapthewontonwrapperaroundthetubeinordertomakeaconeshape.Usealittlewateroreggwhitetostickthesidesdown.Putcornetsina300ºF(150ºC)ovenforabout5minutesuntiltheyarealightgoldencolorandcrispy.Letcool.

Toserve,cutthescallopsinquartersandseasonwithsaltandafewdropsoflime juice.Add thechili-mayosauceandmix.Fill theconeswith theavocadoand finishwith the scallopmixture. Serve immediately otherwise thewrapperwillbecomesoggy.

TRÍODEABREBOCAS:LANGOSTINOSCOCOLICHE

“CocolicheisaclassicLimadessertbasicallyconsistingofpuffedriceorpuffedcornwithacaramelsauce,”explainsSchiaffino.“Onedaywhileinthekitchenplayingaroundwithpuffedrice,PedroMiguelhad the ideaofcoatingshrimpwithit,whichiswheretheideaforthisappetizercamefrom.Theyalsomakeitby first dipping the shrimp in a tempura batter and then in the puffed rice,howevertheybelievethatthisversionhasamoreuniquepersonality.”

Ingredients(Makes16skewers)

16peeled,cleanedshrimps¼cup(50g)whitesugar1cuppuffedrice16thinbambooskewersSalt

Forthewasabifoam1¼cupssoysauce1cupricevinegar3tbspwasabipaste2½tbspwhitesugar2tbspkeylimejuice2½tsppowdered(2½leaves)unflavoredgelatinColdwater2tbsphotwater

Preparation

For the foam, soak the gelatin in coldwater then dissolve it in 2 tbsp of hotwater. Mix all of the rest of the ingredients for the wasabi foam. Add thedissolvedgelatinandmixagain.Passthroughaveryfinemeshstrainer.

Fill a half-liter seltzer bottle (soda siphon)¾ full. Seal seltzer bottle, insertCO2cartridgeandshake.Leavetheseltzerbottleintherefrigeratorovernight.

For the shrimp,put thepuffed riceonaplate.Place the shrimponbambooskewers,seasonwithsaltandsealtheminanon-stickfryingpan.Removeandlet dry on absorbent paper towel. Cover the bottom of a non-stick frying panwiththewhitesugar.Heatovermediumheatuntilthesugarmeltsandbeginstochangecolor.Removethefryingpanfromtheheatandquicklydiptheshrimpinthecaramelandthenintothepuffedrice.Serveimmediatelyonacoldplateandfinishbyservingthewasabifoaminaseparatedish.

FirstCourses

AJÍAMARILLOESCARCHADOYRABODEVACA,CHONTAY

ARÚGULA

VirgilioMartínezisoneofPeru’stopchefs.Atruecutting-edgefusioncreator,heisalsoadeeplyphilosophicalgastronomicthinkerandintenselyintouchwiththe“terroirs”.Allthishappensmagicallyathisrestaurant“Central”inLima.


Topreparethecrystallizedajíamarillo4ajíesamarillos100gchancaca(substitute:¼cupdarkmolasses)2cups(500g)vealorbeefbroth

Fortheoxtail14oz(400g)oxtail4tsp(20ml)extravirginoliveoil5longsprigsofrosemarySalt1ajíamarillo2tsp(10g)chichadejora(substitute:reducedwhitewine)4cardamomseeds

Fortheheartofpalm8in(20cm)ofheartofpalm1orangenasturtiumblossom2tsp(10ml)extravirginoliveoilSaltfromMarasorrocksalt1cocona1staranise2cardamomseeds5Peruvianredpeppercorns(redmolleberries)Juiceof1lima(Citruslimetta)Juiceof1keylime20arugula(rocket)leaves

Forthearugula1bunchofarugulaleaves2tsp(10g)wholecapers,drained3tbsp(40ml)extravirginoliveoil1keylime

Preparation

Tocrystallizeorcooktheajíesamarillos,firstremoveanddiscardthetopsand,usingasmallsharpknife,theseedsandthehotwhiteveinsofthepeppers.Putthe ajíes in a saucepan in cold water and bring to a boil, remove from pan,discarding thewater. Plunge the ajíes into icewater to cool them.Repeat thisprocess3times.Takeoutofthewaterandpeeloffthefineouterskin.Placeinavacuumpackbagwiththevealorbeefbrothalongwiththe4cardamomseeds,therosemaryandchichadejora (thisshouldpreviouslybereducedbyhalfbyboiling)andthemolasses.Sealthebagandleavetocookinwatercontrolledbyacirculatororroner(sousvidecooking)for2hoursat120ºF(50ºC).Onceyouhave removed the bag from the roner, remove the ajíes amarillos from thecookingliquidtocool.

TopreparetheoxtailCuttheoxtailintomedium-sizedpiecesandaddsaltandpepper.Put them in thevacuumpackbagwith the cardamomseeds,oliveoil,rosemaryandchichadejoraandcookinaronerfor26hoursat145ºF(63ºC).Removefromthewaterandcoolquickly.Removethemeatfromthebag.Whencool, remove themeat from the bones and shred.Reduce themeat juices in asaucepanuntilalmostsyrupy.Returntheshreddedmeattothereducedsauceandusethistostufftheajíesamarillos.

TopreparetheheartofpalmandaruguladressingPeelthecoconaandcutintocubes.Placeinaluminumfoilalongwiththeoliveoil,staraniseandcardamomseeds. Cook the closed foil packet in a 400ºF (210ºC) oven for 20 minutes.Removethecoconafleshfromthefoilanddiscardtheseeds.Whencold,putinblender with the juice of the lima and the key lime to obtain an emulsion orvinaigrette.Cutorpeeltheheartofpalminribbon-likestripsandseasonusingthisdressing.

TopreparethearugulasauceFrythearugula,addthecapersandchop.Addtheoliveoilandkeylimejuice.

ToserveHeatastuffedajíamarilloinamicrowavefor30seconds.Seasontheheart of palm strips with the vinaigrette and add the arugula leaves and thenasturtiumpetals.Cuteachstuffedajíamarillointwoandplacethepointedhalfupright on the plate like a conewith the heart of palm strips looselywrappedaround thebaseand theotherhalf lyingdownbeside it,drizzling thearugula-capersauceoverthestuffedajíamarillo,formingacrust.

Note: This is very much a recipe for experienced chefs who have all thenecessaryequipment.Itisdelicious.

CAPCHIDESETASYCAMARÓN

Coque Ossio is Marisa Guiulfo’s son and another of Lima’s finest chefs.Schooledand trained in theU.S.andEurope,hehasbeenat thecenterof thePeruvianCuisine/fusion revolution since it began over a decade ago.He andRafaelOsterling–hissous-chefatthattime-madeofAmbrosiathetoprestaurantinPeru.Inthisvolumeofthe“ArtofPeruvianCuisine”hegivesusmanyofthetraditionalrecipesthatweweren’tabletoincludeinBook1.HehasrestaurantsinandaroundLimaandinCusco.


2cupsoystermushrooms2compis(white)potatoes1cupcookedfavabeans4tbspbutter

1lb5oz(600g)crayfishtails1dicedonion1cupmilk4tbsphuacatay(wildmarigold)leaves1lb(½k)freshwhiteSerranocheese2eggs2tbspajímirasolpaste1sliceofrocoto1tbsppuréedgarlic4poachedquaileggs4wholecrayfish

Preparation

Peel the potatoes and cut them into 8 similar-sized pieces. Boil them and setaside.Very gently clean themushrooms, removing any earth from the stemswith adampcloth.

Inafryingpan,heat2tbspofbutteroverahighheatuntilitdarkensslightlyincolor.Addthemushroomsandcook,stirringoccasionallyjustuntilthewaterdisappears.Removefromtheheat.Donotovercook.

Seasonthecrayfishtailswithsaltandpepperandsautéinafryingpanintheremaining2tbspofbutter.Removethecrayfishtailsfromthepan.

Inthesamefryingpan,addthegarlic,ajímirasolpasteandtheoniontomakeabaseseasoning.Add thecookedpotatoes,greenbeansandmilk.Cookfor3minutesandsetaside.

Justbeforeserving,warmthecooked ingredients together,except for themushrooms, and add half of the huacatay. Now incorporate the mushroomsalongwiththefreshcheeseandthesliceofrocoto.

Serveaccompaniedbythequaileggspoachedinsimmeringwater,vinegarandsaltfor3minutes.Alsousethewholecrayfishpassedthroughboilingwaterfor2minutestodecoratetheplate.Sprinkletherestofthechoppedhuacatayontop.Accompanywith a sliceof rusticbreadmade in awoodburning stoveorwithsourdoughbread.

CAUSA

CAUSAANTICUCHERA



1¼cups(300g)sweetpotatopurée

1¼cups(300g)yellowpotatopurée3leavesAmerican(iceberg)lettuce1lb(480g)fishfillet(BlackSnook,grouperorPacificSeaBass)cutin¾

oz(20g)cubes2medium-sizedtomatoes1avocado(preferablyFuerte)1dozensmallsquid½cupajíamarillopaste2tbspmincedparsleyJuiceof3keylimes2tbspoliveoilSeasaltFreshlygroundpepper

Forthesweetpotatopurée3sweetpotatoes,mediumsized1lb(500g)tablesaltJuiceof2oranges1stickofcinnamon1staranise1tbsplightbrownsugar1½oz(40g)unsaltedbutter2¾tbsp(40g)oliveoilSeasalt

Fortheyellowpotatopurée6medium-sizedyellowpotatoes2tbspajíamarillopasteJuiceof2keylimes1/3cupoliveoilSeasalt

ForRafael’sajíamarillopurée

12ajíesamarillos1/3cupoliveoilFortheAjiAmarilloHuancaínasauce

FortherocotoHuancaínasauceUsethesamerecipeasfortheaboveHuancaínasauce,substituting3

rocotosfortheajíamarillo.

Fortheextras6metalringsapprox.31/8in(8cm)indiameter12smallAzpitiaolives1cupsalsacriolla½cupolivecream1/3cuphomemadevinaigrette12bambooskewers

Fortheolivecream250gstonedblackolives1cupmayonnaise

Preparation

ToprepareRafael’sajíamarillopuréeClean thepeppersbycutting them inhalf and removingall of themembranesandseeds inside.Place theminasaucepanandcoverwithwater.Cookoveramediumheat for20minutesoruntil theyareverysoft.Removefromtheheatand refresh them under cold running water. Remove the skins then place theajíesinthepitcherofablender.Blendwiththeoliveoiluntilyouhaveacreamypaste.Placeinahermeticcontainerandstoreintherefrigerator.

TopreparethesweetpotatopuréePre-heattheovento180ºC15minutesbeforeyouneedit.

Wash and dry the sweet potatoes. Place the salt on a small oven grill orcoveringthebottomofafryingpan.Placethesweetpotatoesontopofthesaltandroastforabout1houroruntiltheyareverysoft(testwithafork).

In a saucepan overmedium heat, cook the orange juicewith the unsaltedbutter and cinnamon and reduce until you obtain a syrup-like liquid. Peel thesweetpotatoesthenpassthemthroughapotatoricertwice.Placethericedsweetpotatoinabowland,littlebylittle,incorporatetheorangemixture.Seasonwithseasaltthenstoreintherefrigerator.

TopreparetheyellowpotatopuréeWashthepotatoesthenplacetheminasaucepanandfillthepanwithwateruntilthewater reachesamark three fingersabove the topof thepotatoes.Addonetablespoonofseasaltandcookovermediumheatuntiltheyareverysoft.Donotusethepotatoesthatburstwhilebeingcooked(itisgenerallyadvisabletostartwith more potatoes than are required precisely for this reason). Remove thepotatoesandpeelthemwhiletheyarestillhotthenpassthemthroughapotatoricer twice.Add the olive oil,key lime juice,ají amarillo paste and finish byseasoningwithsalt.Coverandsetasidesomewherecool.

To prepare the rocoto Huancaína sauce The preparation for this rocotoHuancaínasauceisthesameasthepreparationforabasicHuancaínasauceasindicated on page 289. Start by preparing the rocotos as follows:Remove themembranesandseedsfromtherocotosandcutin4.

Putsomepaperkitchentowelonaplatethenplacethepiecesofrocotoonthe towel with the insides facing upwards. Sprinkle with marine salt and setaside for 30 minutes –this process reduces the rocotos’ spiciness. Wash therocotosinplentyofwaterandplacetheminasmallsaucepan.Coverwithwaterandcookfor12minutesoveramediumheat.Refreshtherocotosunderrunningwateranddry.

NowcontinuewiththeinstructionsforHuancaínasauce.

Toserve

TopreparethefishPuttheajíamarillopuréeinabowl.Place2piecesoffishon each skewer then cover the fish in the ají amarillo purée. Leave for 20minutes.

Cleanthesquid,reservingtheheads.Openthesquidtubeswithaveryfineknifeandmakediamondshapedincisions.Settheseasidewiththeheads.

Peelthetomatoesandfinelyslice.Peeltheavocado,slicingfinelyandaddadrizzleofoliveoilandkeylimejuicetostopitgoingblack.Washthelettuceinplentyofwater,drainwell,thenslicefinely.

CAUSACHICLAYANA

HéctorSolischefandowneroftheFiestarestaurantisoneofthemainstandardbearersofNorthernCuisineinLima.ThisishisversionofaNorthernCausa.


2lbs(1kg)verylargecrayfish(approx.8)1ozvegetableoil½cupofvegetableoil1tsppuréedgarlic10blackolives

Oregano1lettuceleaf

Fortheonionescabeche1lb(500g)redonion½cupofvinegarSaltandblackpeppertotaste2ajíamarillo

Forthegarnish1pound(500g)yuca(cassava,manic)1lb(500g)sweetpotato2cobsoffreshcorn2maturebellaco(cooking)bananas½cupwhitesugar4eggs

Forthecausa2lbs(1kg)whitepotatoesSaltandblackpeppertotaste

Seelinkfortheachiote(annatto)oil.Makehalftherecipe.

Preparation

Toprepare thecrayfishUsinga sharpknife, remove thecrayfish tails leavingthe head intact. Remove the intestines or dark vein that youwill see runningdown thebacksof thecrayfishbymakinga shallow incision.Theywillcomeouteasily.

Oncethecrayfishareclean,heatthevegetableoilinawokandoverahighheat,sautéthecrayfishfor1minuteeachTopreparetheonionescabecheCleantheonionsandcutinthickjulienne.Addsaltandpepperandplaceinabowlwiththevinegartopickletheonion.Leaveforatleastonehour.Setaside.

Cuttheajíamarilloinjuliennelengthwise.

TopreparethegarnishInordertopreparethegarnish,boilthesweetpotatoes,the yuca, the eggs and the corn on the cob separately.Thebananas should bepeeledthencutin¾in(2cm)roundsandboiledoverlowheatinasmallamountofwater.After10minutes,thebananashouldbetender.Addthesugarandleaveto cook for a further 5minutes. Set aside.Once cool, cut the sweet potatoes,yuca,eggsandcornonthecobin2cmthickrounds.

TopreparetheachioteoilMakehalftherecipeinBasicRecipes.

To prepare the causaBoil thepotatoes and rice themwhile still hot,makingsurenottoleaveanylumps.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

Inorder toprepare thebrineandpickledonionmixthatwillgivetheflavor tothisdish,heat½cupofvegetableoil inasaucepanandcookthepuréedgarlicuntil golden. Add the achiote oil and incorporate the pickled onion, the ají

amarillo and theolives (theseshouldbepreviouslypressed inorder to releasethe characteristic flavor). Leave to cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Finally add theoregano.Correctseasoning.

ToservePlaceaportionofcausainthecenterofadinnerplate.Placesomeofthegarnishontopofthecausafollowedby2crayfishperperson.Finally,placesomeofthepickledonion/escabechemixontopofitall.Usetheboiledeggsandlettucetodecorate.

CAUSADEPALLARES

JaimePesaque, chef atMayta is awidely acclaimed creative young cook.Hehasadeliciousrangeofdishes,herearesomeofthem.


1½lb(720g)limabeanpurée7tbsp(100ml)rocotoaïoli1¾cups(400g)solterito¼lb(120g)smokedtuna3octopuses(approx.4.80kg)

Forthecausa(butterbeanpurée)4lbs(2kg)freshgreenlimabeans

Juiceof3keylimes31/3tbsp(50ml)vegetableoil7tbsp(100g)ajíamarillopaste(p.242)1lb(500g)whiteonionSaltandwhitepeppertotaste2tbsp(30g)garlicpurée

Forthesolterito3½oz(100g)greenlimabeans½cup(80g)redonion1ajíamarillo1sprigcilantro1tomato1¾oz(50g)freshwhitecheese1keylimeSalttotaste4tsp(20ml)oliveoil

Forthecharcoaloil2cups(1/2liter)sunflowerseedoil1livecoal(charcoal)

Fortheoctopus2tomatoes,peeled,seeded,choppedSoysauce1sprigrosemary½redonion1bayleafVegetableoilGarlicRocksaltPaprika

Fortherocotoalioli3blanchedrocotos4tsp(20g)garlicconfit31/3tbsp(50ml)oliveoilSaltandpeppertotaste

Preparation

TomakethecausaRemovethebeansfromthepodandblanchtheminboilingwaterthenremovetheskins.Inasaucepanmakeabaseseasoningwiththeoil,onion,31/3tbsp(50g)oftheajíamarillopasteandthegarlicpaste.Whenthisseasoning iswell cookedaddone thirdof thebeansandcook for5additionalminutes.BlendinaThermomix.Thispuréeshouldbequitethick.

Drytheremainingbeansinapreviouslyheatedoven300ºF(150ºC)for4to5 minutes and pass through a Chinese (conical) colander with the help of aspoon.Mixthesetwopreparationsandadd8tsp(40g)oftheajíamarillopaste,thekeylimejuice,salt,pepperandvegetableoil.

To make the solterito Finely chop the red onion, fresh cheese, ají amarillo,tomato, green lima beans and season with oil, key lime, salt, ground whitepepperandtheremaining2tsp(10g)ofajíamarillopaste.

To make charcoal oil Put a live coal (of charcoal) in a wide-mouth metalcontainerwithalid,pour2cups(½liter)ofsunflowerseedoiloverit.Putonthelidlooselysoastoallowthegasestoescapeandletitsitfor½aday.Strainorfilterandstoretheoilinaclosedcontainer.

TopreparetheoctopusesFirstremovetheheads.Washthetentaclesthoroughlywithsaltandplentyofwaterinordertoremovealloftheslime.Inasaucepan,boil the octopus with just enough water to cover them. Add the 2 choppedtomatoes,alittlesoysauce,asprigofrosemaryandhalfaredonionandletcookfor30to40minutesoruntilthetentaclesaretender.Removefromtheheatandmarinateincharcoaloil,bayleaf,garlic,rocksaltandpaprikafor6hours.

TopreparethesmokedtunaFinelymincethesmokedtunaandsetaside.

TomaketherocotoalioliTomakethegarlicconfit,cooktheclovesofgarlicinoliveoiloverlowheatfor30minutes.

Remove the membranes and seeds from the rocotos and blanch them inboilingwaterseveral timesuntil theyareno longerspicy.Peelandblendwiththegarlicconfit,oliveoil,saltandwhitepepper.

ToservePut thecausa inanoiledmold (whatever shapeyou like)and turnouton toadinner plate. Place the solterito on top of the causa and on top of that, theoctopus.Drawzigzaglinesontopoftheoctopuswiththerocotoaïoli.Finally,sprinklethemincedtunaoverthecausa.

CAUSADEPAPAMORADA

ThisisacuttingedgefusiondishfromPeru’smostfamouschef’sfirstrestaurantAstrid yGastón.Gastón gave us several delicious recipes forBook I and hasdone so again. His gastronomic empire, including restaurants of the Astrid yGastón,LaMar,Tanta,Panchita,MadamTusanconcepts,amongothers,spantheglobe.


Forthecausaandtheceviche-styleseaurchinsandscallops11oz(300g)purplepotatoes,cooked4tbsp(60ml)oliveoil2keylimes

Salttotaste

Forthecreamyseaurchinsauce4scallops(removethecoral)5pcsseaurchin(uni)½cupvegetableoil4keylimesSalttotaste

FortheCeviche-styleseaurchinsandscallops12cleanscallops(withoutcoral)12pcsveryfreshseaurchin4keylimes1choppedajílimoCilantroleaves

Fortheavocadopaint1avocado(Fuerteisbest),peeledandseedremoved1/3cup(60ml)oliveoilSalttotaste

Preparation

Toprepare thecausaPlace themashedpurplepotato inabowl,add theoliveoil, the juice of twokey limes and seasonwith salt.Mixwell until all of theingredientshaveboundtogetheroruntilyouobtainahomogenousconsistency.Correctseasoning.Make12littlevolcanoesofcausaandsetaside.

To prepare the ceviche-style sea urchins and scallopsCut each scallop in 4horizontalslices,seasonwithsaltandpepper.Add2tablespoonsofcreamyseaurchinsauceandapinchofchoppedajílimo.Addthekeylimejuice.Mixwellandsetaside.

TopreparethecreamyseaurchinsauceBlendthescallopstogetherwiththeseaurchin (uni in Japanese) adding the vegetable oil in a steady drizzle until youobtainacreamysaucewithamayonnaise-likeconsistency.Seasonwithsaltandkey lime juiceandcorrect theseasoning.Fillapipingbagandsetaside in therefrigerator.

TopreparetheavocadopaintInablender,placetheavocadotogetherwiththeoliveoilandseasonwithsalt.Blendwelluntilyouhaveaverysmoothcream.Correctseasoningandfillapipingbag.Setasideinthefridge.

ToserveOnadinnerplate,make3lineswiththeavocadopaint.Inthecenterofthe lines,place thevolcanoesofpurplecausa.Place someof theceviche-styleseaurchinandscallopmixtureon topof thecausa.Use thecreamyseaurchinsaucetopourtoonesideofthevolcanomakingalittlepool.Putonefreshseaurchinatopeachofthevolcanoes.Finishbydecoratingwiththeajílimoandthefreshcilantro.

CEVICHE

CEVICHEALABRASADEPIRUCHOYLANGOSTADEPUERTOETEN

Héctorreminisces,“Thisdishistheproductofalltheflavorsandperfumesthathaveaccompaniedmeallmy life.Aromasof cilantro,mixedwithají amarilloandchichadejora.Thedwarfcornhuskleavesburninginthe400ºFheatofthecharcoal(thetemperaturethecoalsofalightedcharcoalgrillreach).Piruchoisthetypeofspeckledsmooth-houndsharkwhich,asfarasIamconcerned,isofthe best quality, firmwith plenty of flavor and the color of its flesh all in allmakesitaveryspecialvarietyoffish.NothingisabetteraccompanimentthanaprestigiouslobsterfromtherocksofPuertoEtenwhereexpertdiversdailydiveintotheseatocapturethisdelicacy.”


14oz(400g)Piruchofillet4freshlobstertailsCilantroleaves8semi-maturekeylimes(green,notyellow)1cupofchichadejora(cornbeer)2springonions2ajíesamarillos1ajílimoSalttotaste12largefreshgreencornhuskleaves1tbspvegetableoil

Preparation

Onacuttingboard,cutfishfilletsinto¾in(2cm)cubes.Remove the tails from the lobsters and place on a cutting board.Make a

lengthwiseincisionintheundersideofthetailstoallowthemtocookfasterandthemarinadetoenterthemeat.

Cleanthespringonionsandremovethewitheredleavesthenchopfinely.Washthecilantroleaves,drythoroughlythenmincefinely.Washthekeylimesthensqueezetoextractthejuice.

ToprepareajíamarillopuréeCuttheajíamarilloin3/8in(1cm)thickrings.Cookinthefryingpanwiththevegetableoilfor3to4minutes.Whencooked,blend.

Washthecornhuskleavesverycarefullyandinplentyofwater.Startyourgrillwithnolessthan10lb(5kg)ofcharcoal.

To prepare your ceviche In a large glass bowl, place the cubes of fish andproceedtoseasonwithsalt,atablespoonofajíamarillopurée,cilantro,springonionsfollowedbythekeylimejuiceandfinallythechichadejora.Mixwell.Take2or3ofthecornhuskleaves,opentheminafanshapeandplace¼ofthefishmixtureuponthem.Dothesamefortheother3portions.Placetheseonthecharcoalgrill.Setasidethefishmarinade.

Season the lobster tails with salt and submerge them one by one in thepreviouslymentionedmarinade.

Cookthefishandthelobstertails5to7minutes–bothshouldbemediumrare when cooked. Sprinkle these with a recently diced ají limo and theremainingmarinade.Serve.

Tip: The best textured Pirucho comes from a fish weighing between 4 and 8kilos.

CEVICHECHINO

ThisistheultimatemodernPeruvianfusiondish.WetakeatraditionalcevicheandblendwiththeflavorsofPeruvian-Chinesefood(Chifa)whichisinitselfafusion!!


1¾lb(800g)Peruviangruntfillets

ForpicklingtheChinesevegetables1cupwhitevinegar¼cupgranulatedwhitesugar.¼cupbeansprouts½cupsnowpeapods

½cupajílimowithoutseedsorveinscutinjulienne½cupspringonions,thewhitepartonly,cutinjulienne½cuproastedpeanuts½cupgingercutinjulienne¼cupcilantroleaves1cupkeylimejuice2tbspsesameoil1cupwontonwrapperscutinjulienne,fried½tsp(3g)salt¼tsp(1g)pepper

Preparation

PickletheChinesevegetablesthedaybeforeyouwishtoservethisdish.

To pickle the Chinese vegetables In a small saucepan, mix together the salt,vinegar and granulated sugar. Heat until the salt and sugar have completelydissolved.Letcoolslightlybeforepouringoverthebeansproutsandsnowpeapodsinaglasscontainer.Setaside.

Next,cut thegrunt fillets intostrips1/4 in (½cm) thickand2 in (5cm) long.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandthenplace theminaverycoldbowl.AddthepreviouslypickledChinesevegetables,theajílimo,thewhitepartofthespringonions,theroastedpeanuts,thegingerandfinallythecilantroleaves.Mixwellthen pour the key lime juice all over the above and let stand for a couple ofminutes.Add the sesameoil and serve in a soupplate using the friedwontonstripstodecorate.

CEVICHECONCHICHARRÓNDECALAMAR(CONSHOTDELECHEDE

TIGRE)

Coque Ossio is Marisa Guiulfo’s son and another of Lima’s finest chefs.Schooledand trained in theU.S.andEurope,hehasbeenat thecenterof thePeruvianCuisine/fusion revolution since it began over a decade ago.He andRafael Osterling –his sous-chef at that time– made of Ambrosia the toprestaurantinPeru.Inthisvolumeofthe“ArtofPeruvianCuisine”hegivesusmanyofthetraditionalrecipesthatweweren’tabletoincludeinBookI.HehasrestaurantsinandaroundLimaandinCusco.


Lechedetigre(Tiger’sMilk)

Forthecevicheanddeep-friedsquid1cupofTiger’sMilk(1recipe)Cookedkernelsremovedfromoneearofsweetcorn3½oz(100g)parchedcorn(saltedparchedhighlandAndeancornkernels)3½oz(100g)Chileanseabass(cutinpieces)½cupfinelydicedredonion1tbspmincedajílimo1tbspmincedcilantroSaltandpeppertotaste6smallsquid1egg2tbspplainflour2cups(½liter)oil

Preparationofthecevicheanddeep-friedsquid

MakeonerecipeofTiger’sMilk.Removekernelsfromearoffreshsweetcorn;boil thekernelsofcorninwaterwithalittlesaltandkeylimejuice.Inabowl,mixthecookedcornkernels,theparchedcorn,thepiecesofseabass,theonion,theajílimoandthecilantroandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

Cleanthesquidandcutitinapproximately1/3in(1cm)thickrings.Seasonwithsaltandpepperthencoveronceinflour,onceinthebeatenegg,andfinallyintheflouragain.

Heatthefryingpanwiththeoilandwhenit ishotdeep-frythesquiduntiltheyarecookedtoarichgoldencolor.

ToserveInashotglass,placesomeoftheseabassmixtureandalmostfilltheglass with Tiger’s Milk. Place a few rings of deep-fried squid on top and

decoratewiththemincedcilantro.

CEVICHECOSTANERADELENGUADOYPULPO

YakirSatoisafirstrateyoungchefwhoworkswithhisfather,Humberto,chefcreatorof“Costanera700”-apioneeringPeruvianseafoodfusionrestaurant.


14oz(400g)boiledoctopuscutinslices4oz(400g)flounderfilletscutincubes4tbspsmincedcelery4tbspsmincedcilantro1slicedajílimo

1¼cups(300ml)keylimejuice2tspshondashi(Japaneseseasoning)2tspspuréedgarlic1cupfishfumet1cup(240ml)sillaoKiko(Chinesesoysauce)1redonioninthinlengthwiseslices2tspsmincedparsley2tspssalt3pinchesgroundwhitepepper4tbspoliveoil

Preparation

Clean the octopus.Cut in slices then put in a saucepan and coverwithwater.Cookovermediumheatfor45minutes.Placetheoctopusandfishinabowl.

Addthemincedcelery,cilantro,ajílimo,keylimejuiceandthehondashi.Add the ground garlic, fish fumet and the Chinese soy sauce. Correct

seasoningandsetaside.

To serve Serve the ceviche in a soup plate. Place the red onion on top andsprinkleoverthisthemincedparsley.Pouroliveoilovertheceviche.

CEVICHEDELENGUADOALACREMADEAJÍLIMO

“Iamaceviche lover,”explainsSegundoMuellechefDanielManrique,“andafter looking for a ceviche that casts ají limo, the basic ingredient of everyceviche, in the starring role, comes this creation combining the freshness offlounderwiththesoftnessofscallopsandthetextureofcrabmeattoaccompanythis spicy new proposal. A tribute to ají limo, the fundamental ingredient ofclassicceviche.”


Fortheceviche18oz(520g)flounderfillets(cutinstrips)20scallops(withoutcoral)4oz(120g)cleancrabmeat¾cup(180ml)keylimejuice4cleanscallopsintheirshells4crabclaws¾cup(180ml)ajílimosauce8tsp(40ml)evaporatedmilk3½oz(100g)redonioninthinlengthwiseslices

Fortheajílimosauce40redajíeslimo14tbsp(200ml)vegetableoil

Forthecandiedcamote4smalllongcamotes(sweetpotatoes)about3½oz(400g)1¼cupswhitesugar1stickofcinnamon1striporangepeel

Forthegarnish2¼cups(280g)kernelsoffreshcorn,boiled4smallcandiedcamotes,2tsp(8g)dicedajílimo4leavesoflettuce

Preparation

TopreparetheajílimosauceThefollowingprocessistoreducethespicinessoftheajíes.Cleanandde-veintheajíeslimothenheatwaterandwhenitisboiling,addtheajíeslimoandletcook forabout2minutes.Remove theajíesandchange thewater.Repeat thisprocesstwicemore.Removetheajíeslimo, letdrainandblendinablenderorprocessorwiththevegetableoilandevaporatedmilkuntilyouobtainasmoothconsistency.

TocandythecamotePeelthesweetpotatoes,putintowaterthatisalreadyhot.Onceitcomestoaboil,throwthewaterout.Repeattheprocedure3times.Addsugar,orangepeelandcinnamonandenoughwatertocover.Simmeruntilsweetpotatoiscandiedandshiny(addmorewaterifnecessary).Letcool.

TopreparethecevicheKeepthefish,scallopsandcrabmeatintherefrigeratoruntiltheyaretobeused.

Put the refrigerated ingredients in a bowl with the key lime juice, let themmarinate for a fewmoments. Next, add the creamy ají limo sauce.Mixwellonceagainandcorrectseasoning.Thenadd theonionslicesandmixonefinaltime.

ToservePlacesomecevicheinthecentreofadinnerplateandplacethegarnishontopofthelettucetoonesideoftheceviche.

Tip: When deseeding and deveining any ají and specially ají limo, weardisposableglovesorplasticbaggiesonyourhands.

CEVICHEGALÁCTICODELENGUADO,CONCHAS

“SEÑORITAS”YCANGREJOENCREMADEERIZO

Rafael Osterling is one of Peru’s very best chefs and to my mind, wouldcertainlybemulti-starredifMichelin’sRedGuidecoveredPeru.Hiscreativityblended with unerring and truly delicious execution, make his restaurants,Rafael and Mercado among them, some of the best in town. This is one ofRafael’s.


2lbs(1kg)flounderfillets18medium-sizedscallops9cookedstonecrabclawsJuiceof6keylimes½tsprocotoaïoli¾cupkernelsofcookedcorn1/3cupcilantroleavesLeavesoficeberg(American)lettuceSalttotaste

Fortherocotoaïoli1rocoto1head(bulb)ofgarlic5tsp(25g)oliveoil

FortheTigress’MilkSeebasicTiger’sMilkrecipe½medium-sizedwhiteonion5clovesofgarlic,removethegermandshoot¾cupfishfumet7oz(200g)piecesofwhitefish2tbspajíamarillopaste3tbspoliveoil

TheextraingredientsfortheTigress’Milk7oz(120g)seaurchinmeat1cup(250g)fishfumet

Forthesweetpotatopurée2lbs(1kg)sweetpotato,mediumsized¾kgsalt

2tbspunsaltedbutter1cuporangejuice1smallcinnamonstickSeasalttotaste

ForRafael’ssalsacriolla1redonion,finelyslicedandwashedtwiceinplentyofwater½ajílimo½ajíamarillo2tbspcilantroleavesJuiceof3keylimes6tbspoliveoilSalttotaste

Preparation

TopreparetherocotoaïoliWashtherocoto.Washtheheadofgarlicandcutoffthe top andbottom.Place thegarlic and rocoto in a saucepan and cover themwithwater.Bringtoaboilandthensimmerforonehourapproximatelyoruntilbothare tender.Peel therocoto and remove the seeds.Remove the flesh fromthegarlicclovesthenblendwellwiththerocotoandtheoliveoil.Passthroughafine-meshsieve.

To prepare the Tigress’MilkBlend all of the ingredients then pass through afine plastic sieve. Blend the sea urchin meat with the fish fumet and passthroughafinesieve.Gentlymixthesetwoliquids.Setasideintherefrigerator.

To prepare the sweet potato puréePreheat the oven to 350ºF (180ºC) for 15minutes.

Washanddrythesweetpotatoes.Placethesaltonasmallovengrill,bakingsheetorcoveringthebottomofafryingpan.Placethesweetpotatoesontopofthesaltandroastforabout1houroruntiltheyareverysoft(testwithafork).

In a saucepan overmedium heat, cook the orange juicewith the unsaltedbutterandcinnamonandreduceuntilyouobtainasyrupyliquid.Peelthesweet

potatoes, then pass them through a potato ricer twice. Place the riced sweetpotatoinabowland,littlebylittle,incorporatetheorangejuicemixture.Seasonwithseasaltthenstoreintherefrigerator.

TopreparethesalsacriollaPlacetheonion,ajíamarilloandajílimoinabowl,seasonwithsaltandpepperandmixwell.Addthekeylime juiceandoliveoilthenmixagain.Finishbyaddingthecilantro.

ToserveCuttheflounderfilletsinto¾in(2cm)cubes.Onceyouhavecleanedthescallopsandremovedthecorals,cut theminhalfhorizontally.Removethecrabmeat fromthecrabclawsandplace it inabowlwith the flounderand thescallops.Addsaltandmixwell.IncorporatetheTigress’Milktogetherwiththekey lime juice and rocoto aïoli.Check the seasoning.Add the cilantro leaves,mixinggently.Servethefishmixturesurroundedbyitsjuice.Placesomeofthesalsacriollaontopoftheceviche.Finally,placesomecornaroundthecevichealongwithsomesweetpotatopuréeandaleafoficeberglettuce.

Tip:YoucanreplacetheTigress’MilkwithTiger’sMilk.Rafael’ssalsacriollaisavariationonthebasicrecipe.

CHICHARRÓNDECAMARONES



4½lbs(2kg)medium-sizedcrayfishApieceofgingerabout6in.(15cm)long2lbs(1kg)cornstarchordried-potatoflourJuiceof3keylimes2tbspcilantroleavesFineseasaltFreshlygroundpepper8cups(2liters)vegetableoil

Forthechupemayonnaise12/3cups(400g)mayonnaise2cups(500ml)crayfishstock

Extras2lbs(1kg)yuca2sweetpotatoes,mediumsized½tspsalt3keylimescutinslices1avocado

ForRafael’sSalsaCriolla1½medium-sizedwhiteonions1tomatoJuiceof4keylimes1/3cupoliveoil1ajílimowithoutseedsorveins;sliced½ajíamarillowithoutseedsorveins;sliced2tbspcilantroleavesFineseasaltFreshlygroundpepper1keylime,cutinthinslices

Preparation

Toprepare the crayfishClean thecrayfish heads reserving the coral for otherpreparations butwithout separating the heads from the tails.Make an incisionalongthebackofthetailstoremovetheintestines.Setaside.

TopreparethechupemayonnaiseReducethechupe(crayfishstock)toonethirdofitsvolume.Waitfor it togetcoldandthenmixgentlywiththemayonnaiseuntil you acquire the desired flavor. Freeze any remaining broth for futurepreparations.

TopreparetheextrasWashtheyucawellsothatnoearthremainsonit.Cutinto21/3 in (6 cm) lengths thenboil inwater and salt until it is soft and creamy,about20to25minutes.Removefromthewater,peelthenletcool.Cuttheyucain21/3x¾in(6x2cm)sticks.Setaside.

Preheattheovento350ºF(180ºC)15minutesbeforeusingit.Washanddrythesweetpotatoes.Placethesaltonasmallovengrill,bakingpanorcoveringthebottomofafryingpan.Placethesweetpotatoesontopofthesaltandroastforabout1houroruntiltheyareverysoft(testwithafork).Removefromtheoventhen,whencold,peelandcutthemintothickslices.Setaside.

Toprepare the salsacriollaSlice theonion thenwash twice inplentyofcoldwater.Peelthetomato,cutin4thenremovetheseedsandfinelyslice.Placetheonion, tomato, ají amarillo and ají limo in a bowl then season with salt andpepperandmixwell.Addthekeylimejuiceandoliveoilthenmixonceagain.Finishbyaddingthecilantro.

ToserveHeatthevegetableoilinafryingpanto350ºF(180ºC).Gratethegingerandsqueezethejuiceoverthecrayfish.Addsaltandkeylimejuice and mix well. Coat the crayfish in the cornstarch or dried-potato flour,shakingofftheexcess,thengentlyfryuntiltheyaregoldenandcrispy.Thenfrytheyucaandthenthesweetpotatorounds.

Use the fried yuca to form a base then on top of this place a fried sweetpotatoroundfollowedbyslicesofavocado.Finally,placethecrayfishontopofthis, sprinkling with the cilantro leaves. Use the salsa criolla to accompanyalongwiththechupemayonnaiseandtheslicesofkeylime.

Tips: This salsa criolla is a variation of thebasic recipe. It is bestmade justbeforeserving.

CONCHAMACA

ToshiroisoneofPeru’sNikkeichefsandacolleagueofNobu’swhentheybothcametoLimafromJapaninthe1970’s.ToshiisamasterofJapanese-Peruvianfusioncuisine.

Ingredients(Makes2x2scallopsservings)

12livescallops4tsp(20g)gratedmaca(useaJapanesegrater)1¾oz(50g)avocado,about¼anavocado,cutin1-cmcubes

Forthetobiko2oz(60g)naturaltobiko(flyingfishcaviar)2tbspsake2tbspshoyu(Japanesesoysauce)¼tbsphondashi

ForToshi-styletartarsauce1hard-boiledegg,finelyminced3tbspmayonnaise2tbspredonion,finelyminced,washedandexcesswatersqueezedout1/2tbspparsley,washedandexcesswatersqueezedout

Toshi-stylelechedetigre

Preparation

Firstremovethescallopsfromtheirshells(settheseasideforuselateron)anddiscardthecoralsretainingthewhitemeatwhichshouldbecutinto1cmcubes.Setasideinacool32-41ºF(0-5ºC)place.

TopreparethetobikoWashthefishinplentyof icecoldwateruntilallof theexcesssalthasbeenremoved.Drainthenmixwiththesake,shoyuandhondashi.Mix well and leave to marinate for 2 hours. Strain and set aside in therefrigerator.

TopreparethetartarsaucePlacethemincedegg,mayonnaiseandmincedonioninabowlandmixwell.Setasideintherefrigerator.

Toprepare theToshi-style lechede tigre:Thoroughlywash the scallop shellsand boil them in plenty of water. Set them aside to cool then place in therefrigerator.

ToservePlace3cubesofscallopbackintoeachshelltogetherwiththelechede

tigre. Cover with a teaspoon of the tartar sauce along with the gratedmaca.Finishbyaddingsomeof theavocadoand the tobiko.Serve immediately.Eatwithaspoonputtingalittleofeachingredientonthespoon.

CONCHASDECASMACONSALSADEWASABIYBROTESDECAVIAR

ThisrecipeisoneofRafaelPiqueras’.HeisoneofPeru’sfinestyoungtalents.Hehasjustopenedwhathas,inasinglemonth,becomearguablyoneofPeru’sbest restaurants –MARAS at the brand-new Westin Hotel in Lima. Thisrestaurantisamustforanyvisitortothecity.


6large,veryfreshscallopsintheirshells1avocado1cupofTiger’sMilk

Forthewasabisauce1eggyolk1tspwasabipowderJuiceof1keylime1tspofmincedchives1tspmashedgarlic¼tsphondashi¼tspcilantro¼cupvegetableoil1tspoliveoilSaltandpeppertotaste

TodecorateFriedshoestringyellowpotatoes1tbspflyingfishcaviar

Preparation

Firsthydratethewasabipowderwithalittlewatertoformathickpaste.

Next,removeanddiscardthecoralfromthescallopsthenwashwellandremoveanyblack,vein-likeparts.Settheshellsasideonice.

Placetheeggyolk,saltandkeylimejuiceintheblenderandgraduallyaddinthevegetable oil until youobtain a fairly liquidmayonnaise.Remove themixturefromtheblenderandaddthepreviouslyhydratedwasabi.Mixwellthenaddtheremainingingredients.Thesauceshouldbeslightlyacidicandnottoothick.

To servePlace the 3 scallops on a dinner plate and pour some of theTiger’sMilkontop.Useasliceofavocadotodecorate.PlacesomeofthewasabisauceasifitwasspillingoutofthescallopshellsthenusetheflyingfishcaviarandtheFriedshoestringyellowpotatoestodecorate.

TIP:Ifyoupreferamoreacidicflavor,servewithslicesofkeylime.

CONCHASENSALSADEPEREJILCONKUSHUROYMACA

This dish was created at Malabar by mixing green Italian bagnetto (any ofseveralsaucesmadewithparsley)withTiger’sMilk.Thissauceisidealforfish,above all bluefish, and fresh seafood. In the restaurant it is used in differentwaysaccordingtotheseason.

Ingredients(Serves4)½lb(240g)scallopswithoutcoral7/8cup(80g)Japanesecucumbercutin¼in(½cm)cubes3tbsp(40g)ofkushuropickledinmirin(sweetricewine)2tsps(10g)ofmacafinelyslicedinjulienne

Smokeddriedcochayuyo(seaweed)Leavesoffreshparsley

Fortheparsleyoil1½cupsofextravirginoliveoil12/3cups(100g)parsley2anchovyfilletsinoil2garliccloveswithoutgermorshoot

Tiger’sMilkHondashiIce

Preparation

Toprepare theparsleyoilPutall the ingredients through theblenderandpassthroughafinemeshstrainer.Setasideintherefrigerator.

To prepare the Tiger’sMilkMake 2 recipes of the basicTiger’sMilk recipe.Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and season with salt, pepper and a littlehondashi to taste. Let this marinate for one hour. Place this mixture in theblender,pulsethreetimes.Donotover-blend.Passthroughafinemeshstrainerandsetasideintherefrigerator.

To prepare the green sauce Blend the parsley oil with the Tiger’s Milk,correctingtheseasoningasdesired.Passthroughafinemeshstrainer.

To prepare the seaweedPlace the seaweed in a foil packetmaking sure it issealed.Placeintheovenat250ºF(125ºC)for30minutes.

To serve, place the scallopsmixedwith the cucumber in a soupplate. Seasonwithsaltandaddthekushuro,themacacutinjulienneandafewthinstripsofthesmokeddriedseaweed(cochayuyo).Lastlyaddthegreensauceanddecoratewithfreshparsleyleaves.Sprinklewithchoppedseaweedbeforeserving.

CONCHITASENMANTEQUILLADELIMÓN

Coque Ossio is Marisa Guiulfo’s son and another of Lima’s finest chefs.Schooledand trained in theU.S.andEurope,hehasbeenat thecenterof thePeruvianCuisine/fusion revolution since it began over a decade ago.He andRafaelOsterling–hissous-chefatthattime-madeofAmbrosiathetoprestaurantinPeru.Inthisvolumeofthe“ArtofPeruvianCuisine”hegivesusmanyofthetraditionalrecipesthatweweren’tabletoincludeinBook1.HehasrestaurantsinandaroundLimaandinCusco.

Ingredients(1servingof6scallops)

6freshscallopsSaltandpeppertotaste

Forthescallopsauce10tbspbalsamicvinegar2cups(400g)whitesugar9oz(250g)unsaltedbutter6oz(170g)pearlonions10tbspHondashisauceJuiceof20keylimes

Forthecrunchygarlic3cups(750ml)vegetableoil1lb(500g)garlic1stalkofcelery,finelydiced½cupofkeylimejuice1tspmincedparsley

Preparation

ForthescallopsauceCutthepearlonionsinbrunoise.Inasaucepanheatalltheingredientsexcept for thebutterover lowheat.Reducefor30minutesoruntilthe liquid reaches a honey-like consistency. Stir together with the butter. Setasideintherefrigerator.

For thecrunchygarlicCut thegarlic inbrunoise.Heat theoil ina fryingpanoverhighheat.Frythegarlic.Removeexcessoil,drainonpaperkitchentowel.Setaside.

For the scallops Leave the scallops in their shells but clean them well andremovethecorals.Saltandpepperthem.Youshouldthensealthescallopsonagrillscallop-sidedown.Removethemfromthegrill.

ToservePlacethejustsealedscallopsintheirshellsonadinnerplate.Placeatablespoonofsauceontopofeachscallopandwaitforittomelt.Topwithsomeofthecrunchygarlicandusetheparsleytodecorate.

CRUJIENTEDECHICHARRÓNENCROCANTEDESWEETPOTATO,CREMADECAMOTEYSALSA

CRIOLLA



Forthechicharrón2lbs(1kg)freshpancettaorporkbelly4sprigsofsage

12clovesofgarlic,unpeeled1cup(250ml)oliveoil2tbspseasalt

ForRafael’ssalsacriolla2whiteonions,mediumsized1ajílimo½ajíamarillo½tomato2tbspcilantroleaves,coarselychoppedJuiceof4keylimes1/3cupoliveoilFineseasalttotasteFreshlygroundpepper

Forthecrispysweetpotato1sweetpotatoBrownsugarFineseasaltGroundcinnamon4cups(1liter)vegetableoil

Extras½cupHuancaínasauce½cuprocotoHuancaína1cup(250g)creamedsweetpotato4tsp(20ml)vegetableoil

ForRafael’sHuancaínasauce1small,whiteonion,coarselychopped6clovesofgarlicconfit5ajíesamarillos,seedsandveinsremoved5oz(140g)freshwhitecheese5sodacrackers1tbsproastedpeanuts1bayleaf2/3cup(150ml)freshmilk2/3cup(150ml)evaporatedmilk¼cup(60ml)vegetableoil4tsp(20ml)oliveoilFineseasaltFreshlygroundpepper

ForRafael’srocotoHuancaína:usetheHuancaínarecipeaboveReplacing the ají amarillo with 4 medium-sized rocotos, cut in half,

removingseedsandveinsUsing½cup(120ml)offreshmilkinsteadof2/3cup(150ml)Using½cup(120ml)ofevaporatedmilkinsteadof2/3cup(150ml)2cups(500ml)freshmilkSeasalt

Forthemashedsweetpotatoes6medium-sizedsweetpotatoesJuiceof2oranges3oz(80g)unsaltedbutter7tbsp(100ml)freshmilkPinchpowderedcinnamon3cloves2pounds(1kg)tablesaltFineseasalt

Preparation

Toprepare thechicharrónRemove the rind from the freshpancetta andplacethepancettainamediumsaucepanwithwatertocover.Addthesage,garlicandsaltandcookovermediumheat.Onceitcomestoaboil,startskimmingofftheimpurities that appear on the surface of the water. Cook for an additional 30minutes,constantlyskimming.Addtheoliveoil,lowertheheattominimumandletcookuntilallof thewaterhasevaporatedandthepancettabeginstoconfit,approximately1¼to1½hours.Continuetocookintheoilandpancettafatforanadditional15minutes.Removefromtheheat,waituntilitcoolsthensetasidethe pancetta, the garlic and the sage with the thickened oil in an airtightcontainerintherefrigerator.Thiswillkeepfor3days.

TopreparethesalsacriollaFinelyslicetheonionandwashtwiceinplentyofwater.Cuttheajílimoandajíamarilloinquartersandremovethemembranesandseeds.Soakthepiecesofajílimoincoldwaterbeforeusing.Cutbothajíesinfinejulienne.Removetheskinandtheseedsfromthetomatoandcutinfinejulienne.

Placetheonion,tomato,ajíamarilloandajílimoinabowlthenseasonwithsaltandpepperandmixwell.Addthekeylimejuiceandoliveoilthenmixonceagain.Finishbyaddingthecilantro.

TopreparethecrispysweetpotatoPeelthesweetpotatoand,usingamandolin,cutintofineslices.

Heatthevegetableoiltoatemperatureof350ºF(180ºC)andfrythesweet

potatoslicesuntiltheyarecrisp.Removeallexcessoilbydrainingonabsorbentpaper kitchen towels then sprinkle with equal amounts of cinnamon, salt andsugar.

TopreparetheHuancaínasauceEitherpreparegarlicconfitoruse3clovesofgarliccutinhalf.

Heattheoliveoilinafryingpanandwhenhot,addtheonion,garlic,ajíesamarillos and bay leaf and cook overmediumheat for 6minutes or until theonionandajíesaresoftandgolden.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Discardthebayleaf.

Place these ingredients inablender togetherwith thefreshcheese, roastedpeanuts,threeofthesodacrackersandvegetableoil.Blendatmediumspeedandlittleby littleadd first the freshmilk then theevaporatedmilk.The remainingtwocrackersshouldbeaddedoneatatimealternativelywiththelastpartofthemilktoachievetherightconsistency.Thesauceshouldbecreamyandlightwithnolumps.Checktheseasoning.

TopreparetherocotoHuancaínasaucePlacesomeabsorbentkitchentowelinabakingpan,andplacetherocotohalvesonthetowel,skinsidedown.Sprinklewiththeseasaltandsetasidefor30minutes.Washtherocotoswellandputinasaucepantogetherwiththe2cups500ml)offreshmilkandcookoverlowheatuntilthemilkbeginstoboil.Simmerforanadditional2minutes.Removefromheatanddraintherocotosandthenwashundercoldrunningwater.

Cook the rocotos in a frying pan in the olive oil togetherwith the onion,garlicandbayleafovermediumheatfor6minutesoruntiltheonionandrocotoaresoftandgolden.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Discardthebayleaf.

Placetheaboveinablendertogetherwiththefreshcheese,roastedpeanuts,threeofthesodacrackersandvegetableoil.Blendatmediumspeedandlittlebylittle add first the fresh milk then the evaporated milk. The remaining twocrackersshouldbeaddedoneatatimealternativelywiththelastpartofthemilktoachievetherightconsistency.Thesauceshouldbecreamyandlightwithnolumps.Checktheseasoning.

TopreparethemashedsweetpotatoesPreheatovento350ºF(180ºC).Washthesweetpotatoes.Spreadthetablesaltinalayeronthebottomofabakingpanandplacethesweetpotatoesonthesalt.Piercethemtoallowthesteamtoescape.Bakethemintheovenuntiltheyare

softandtheskinbeginstoformahardenedcrust,approximately1hour.Whilethesweetpotatoesareintheoven,heattheorangejuiceovermedium

heatuntilitreachesasyrupyconsistency.Placethemilk,cinnamon,clovesinasaucepanandbringtoaboil.Remove

fromtheheat,discardingthecloves.Usingaspoon,removeallofthesweetpotatofleshfromtheskinthenpass

througharicertwicetomakesurethatnolumpsremain.Mixthesweetpotatowiththemilkandorangesyrupandchecksalt.

Toserve Ina fryingpan,brown thepancettachicharrónonboth sidesandcutinto1in(3cm)slicesToserve,placethecrispysweetpotatoslicesonaplateasabaseandthencoverwithateaspoonofmashedsweetpotatoes.Arrangeapieceof chicharrón on top of this. Pour some of the rocoto Huancaína and theHuancaína on top of this. Finish by decorating with the salsa criolla andcilantroleaves.

Finally,usingapastrysleeve,decoratetheplatewithdotsoftheHuancaínasauceandtherocotoHuancaínasauce.

TIPS: This salsa criolla is a variation of the basic recipe shown on link andshouldbemadejustbeforeserving.TheHuancaínasauceisavariationofthebasicrecipeonlink.

EMPANADAS

Coque Ossio is Marisa Guiulfo’s son and another of Lima’s finest chefs.Schooledand trained in theU.S.andEurope,hehasbeenat thecenterof thePeruvianCuisine/fusion revolutions since itbeganoveradecadeago.HeandRafaelOsterling–hissous-chefatthattime-madeofAmbrosiathetoprestaurantinPeru.Inthisvolumeofthe“ArtofPeruvianCuisine”hegivesusmanyofthetraditionalrecipesthatweweren’tabletoincludeinBook1.HehasrestaurantsinandaroundLimaandinCusco.


3½lb(1.6kg)self-risingflour11/3lb(600g)margarine

2tbspsalt½cupwhitesugar2½cups(600ml)water1cup(120g)flour(forrollingoutthedough)

Forthelomosaltadoempanada8ballsofdoughweighingabout3oz(82g)each1lb(400g)sirloincutincubes1tbspgarlicpaste(clovesofgarlicblendedwithenougholiveoiltoforma

paste)½cupmincedredonion2ajíesamarillos,withoutseedsormembranes2tomatoes,peeledandcutinsmallcubes2tbspwhitevinegar4tbspsoysauce½cupdarkmeatstock1tbspchoppedcilantro1cupwhitepotatoes,cutincubesandfried2tbspspringonions(onlythegreenpart),finelychopped2eggs,beaten2cups(500ml)vegetableoilSaltandpeppertotaste

Forthemeatempanada8ballsofdoughweighing3oz(82g)each12/3lb(750g)tenderlointipsorgroundtenderloin1redonion,chopped½tbsp(15g)tomatopaste1tbsp(10g)mincedgarlic1tbsp(15g)vegetableoil½tsp(3g)salt½tsp(1g)pepper2tsp(5g)groundoregano

1egg,beaten

Fortheajídegallinaempanada8ballsofdoughweighing3oz(82g)each2chickenbreasts2bayleaves¼cupdicedredonion1tbspgarlicpaste1tbspajíamarillopaste2tbspchoppedpecans½cupchickenstock1cupevaporatedmilk¼cupgratedparmesancheese2cups(500g)vegetableoil½tsp(3g)salt¼tsppepper1egg,beaten

Eachrecipemakes8empanadas

BASICEMPANADADOUGHPreparationMix themargarineand the flour.Separately,dissolve the salt and sugar in thewater.

Mixjustenoughof thesugaredwaterwith theflourso that thedoughjustformsaball andcomesaway from the sidesof thebowlbutdoesnotbecomesticky.Ifdoughistoodry(ifitdoesnotsticktogether)addalittlemorewater.Stopmixing as soon as it forms a ball. Let dough rest a fewminutes beforeworking.

Separateabout24oz(656g)ofthedoughanddividethisintoeightportions,about3oz(82g)each.Formthedoughintoballsandsetthemaside.

(Thisrecipemakesthedoughforabout32empanadas).

LOMOSALTADOEMPANADAPreparationHeatthevegetableoilinawokandsautéthesirloincubesinthisoilforseveralseconds.Addthegarlicpaste,onion,ajíamarilloandthetomatoes.Sautéforafewmoreminutesthenaddthevinegar,thesoysauceandthebeefstock.Seasonwithsalt,pepperandchoppedcilantro.Addthefriedpotatocubesandthespringonionsandmixwell.

Roll out a ball of dough and cut in rounds that are 4 ¾ in (12 cm) indiameterandabout¼in(5mm)thick.Placesomeoftheabovemixtureononehalfoftheroundthenusingeitheralittlebeateneggorplainwater,paintallthewayaroundtheedge.Bringthetwosidesofthedoughuptogetherandcrimptheedgesof thedoughwithyourfingersoraforktoseal theempanada.Placetheempanadasonametalbakingtray.Usetheremainderofthebeateneggtobrushoverthesurfaceoftheempanadas.

Heatovento350ºF(180ºC)andbaketheempanadasfor10minutesoruntilgolden.

Bring the two sides of the dough up together and crimp the edges of thedoughwithyourfingersoraforktosealtheempanada.Placetheempanadasona metal baking tray. Use the remainder of the beaten egg to brush over thesurfaceoftheempanadas.

Heatovento350ºF(180ºC)andbaketheempanadasfor10minutesoruntilgolden.

AJÍDEGALLINAEMPANADAPreparation

Cookthebreastsofchickeninenoughwatertocoverthem,alongwiththebayleaves.Oncethechickeniscooked,setasidethecookingliquid.Letthechickencoolandshredthemeat.Discardbonesandbayleaves.Inafryingpan,makeaseasoningusingtheonionandtheajíamarilloandgarlicpastes.Season.Cooktheseasoningforafewminutesuntilsoftthenaddthechoppedpecansandtheevaporated milk. Season then add the shredded chicken. Add enough of thecooking liquid tomake a thick sauce – this should not be runny. Cook for 5minutesmoreuntilwellmixed.

Rolloutaballofdoughandcut inroundsthatare4¾in(12cm)indiameterandabout¼in(5mm)thick.Placesomeoftheabovemixtureononehalfoftheround then using either a little beaten egg or plain water, paint all the wayaround the edge. Bring the two sides of the dough up together and crimp theedgesof thedoughwithyourfingersoraforktoseal theempanada.Placetheempanadasonametalbakingtray.Usetheremainderofthebeateneggtobrushoverthesurfaceoftheempanadas.

Heat oven to 350ºF (180ºC) and bake the empanadas for 10minutes or untilgolden.

ENSALADADESPAGHETTIINTEGRALESALAOCOPAY

LANGOSTINOS

Followingawell-respectedtraditioninItaliancuisine,UgoPlevisanipresentsadishofcoldpastawithexquisitelyfreshseafoodandaspicypeanutsauce.


3oz(80g)crayfishormedium-sizedshrimp

7tbsp(100ml)crayfishstock(cansubstituteshrimpstockifusingshrimpinthisrecipe)

½lb(250g)wholewheatspaghettiSpicygarlicoil(seepreparationoftheOcopasauce)1tbsp(15g)huacatay(Tagetesminuta,alsocalledPeruvianblackmint)

leaves

TopreparetheOcopasauce2oz(60g)Bolivianpeanuts(largepeanuts)3½oz(100g)ajimirasol2clovesofgarlic3tbsp(50g)redonion7tbsp(100ml)oliveoil1¾oz(50g)Chillongoatcheese12/3tbsp(25ml)crushedvanillabiscuits1tsp(4ml)whitepepper1tbsp(15ml)salt1tsp(5ml)keylimejuiceAfewhuacatayleavesSaltfromMaras

Preparation

With a sharpknife, carefully remove all of theveins and seeds from theajíesmirasolandsetasidea teaspoonfulof theseeds.Removethecentralgermandshootfromtheclovesofgarlic.Cleananddeveinthecrayfishorshrimp.

To prepare the ají mirasol Cut the previously deveined and deseeded ajíesmirasol into pieces. Soak them in boiling water to cover. Let them soak forabout10minutes.Removetheajíesfromthewaterwhichyouwillreserve.

Inasmallsaucepan,reducethecrayfishorshrimpstockto3tbsp(40ml).

TopreparetheOcopasauceChopthegarlicandtheonion.Fryoverlowheatin5½tbsp(80ml)ofoliveoil.Whencooked,addtheajíesandfryforalittlelonger.Withaspoonremove4tsp(20ml)of thegarlic-ajíoil and set this aside in abowl. Incorporate thewaterusedforsoakingtheajíesalongwiththecrayfish/shrimpstock.Thisshouldnotbeveryconcentratedatthisstage.Bringtoaboilandcookfor5moreminutes.Add salt and pepper (and a small amount of reserved aji mirasol seeds foroptional extra heat) then blend. Sieve through a fine-mesh strainer. Removefromtheheatandletcoolforafewminutes.Graduallyincorporatethepeanuts,

goatcheese,huacatayleavesandvanillacookiesthenblend.Obtainthedesiredconsistency by either adding more of the hot pepper water or some of thereducedcrayfish/shrimpstock.Strainandsetaside.

TomakethespaghettiCookthewholewheatspaghettiinplentyofboilingsaltedwater until al dente, about 8 to 10minutes. Strain the spaghetti and place thestrainerundercoldrunningwatertopreventfurthercookingandthenstrainwell.Placeinabowlwiththeremaining4tsp(20ml)ofoliveoilandsetaside.

Inthehotspaghettiwater,blanchtheprawntailsforoneminute.Whencold,cutlengthwise.Putinabowlwiththe4tsp(20ml)ofthespicyoilpreviouslysetaside.Letmarinatewithafewdropsofkeylimejuiceforafewminutes.

ToserveMixthecoldspaghettiwiththeOcopasauceandhalfofthecrayfishorshrimp tails.Use the remaining tails for decoration alongwith some huacatayleaves,andalittlesaltfromMaras(cansubstituterocksalt)togiveitthatlittlebitofextraflavorandcrunch.

HUEVOPOCHADOCONCREMOSODEPADANO



6free-rangeeggs41/3oz(120g)duckprosciuttooraircuredduckham2tbsp(30ml)Brazilnutoil41/3oz(120g)portobellomushrooms

6slicesofpeasanttoast(thickishslicesofrusticbread)

ForthePadanocheesesauce½lb(250g)GranPadanoParmesancheese2/3cup(150)mlfreshmilk12/3cup(400ml)freshcream7oz(200g)whitepotatoes¼ofawholenutmeg,grated

Edibleflowers

Preparation

Break the eggs one by one onto previously oiled cling film and tie. Cook inboilingwaterfor4minutesandremove.

Cuttheportobellomushroomsin½cmthickslicesandsealinahotfryingpanusingtheBrazilnutoil.

Tomake thePadanocheesesauceBoil,peelandmash thepotatoes.Grate thecheese. Heat the milk: when it comes to a boil, add the fresh cream, gratedcheese, thegratednutmegand themashedpotato.Put thesauce in theblenderandblendfor8minutes.

ToservePlaceapoachedeggonadinnerplateandtothesideofthisplacesomeof thecheesesauce.Arrangemushroomsliceson topof thesauceanduse theedibleflowerstodecorate.

MARTINIDECEVICHECONESPUMADEAJÍAMARILLOY

PISCOMOSTOVERDE

ThisrecipeisoneofRafaelPiqueras’.HeisoneofPeru’sfinestyoungtalent.Hehasjustopenedwhathas,inasinglemonth,becomearguablyoneofPeru’sbest restaurants –MARAS at the brand-new Westin Hotel in Lima. Thisrestaurantisamustforanyvisitortothecity.

Ingredients(Serves6-8)

1lb(500g)cleansquid1lb(500g)octopus

7/8cup(200ml)keylimejuiceSaltandpeppertotaste

Fortherocotoandpeppercream2lbs(1kg)rocoto3qts(3liters)water1½cupswhitevinegar¾cupwhitesugar1jarofpiquillopeppers2clovesofgarlicChoppedparsley2cupsofvegetableoilSaltandpeppertotaste

Fortheajíamarillofoam2/3lb(300g)cookedajíamarillo7/8cup(200ml)Tiger’sMilk3sheetsofgelatinor1½tsppowderedgelatinSaltandpeppertotaste

2tbspMostoVerdePisco1mincedwhiteonion

Preparation

TopreparetherocotoandpeppercreamCuttherocotosintoquarters,removinganddiscardingthemembranesandseeds.Placetherocotoquartersinapotwith1quart(1liter)ofcoldwateralongwith½cupofvinegarand¼cupofsugarandbringtoaboil.Repeatthisprocessthreetimesinall,throwingthecookingwater away each time, then peel the rocoto quarters and set aside. Blend thepiecesof rocotowith thepiquillopeppers, garlic andparsley, season and thenaddthevegetableoilinaslowstream.

TopreparethesquidandoctopusBlanchthesquidinboilingwater.Next,cook

theoctopusforapproximately30-45minutesoruntilitissofttothetouch.Cutthesquidinringsandtheoctopusintocubes,addsaltandpepper.

FortheajíamarillofoamPreparetheajíamarillosbycuttingtheminhalfandremoving the membranes and seeds. Place in a medium-sized saucepan andcovertheajíwithboilingwater.Cookovermediumheatforabout15minutesoruntiltheskinstartspeelingoff.Refreshtheajíunderrunningwaterthen,whencool, remove the skin. Blend the ají amarillo until it forms a smooth cream.DissolvethegelatinintheTiger’sMilkandthenmixwiththeajícream.Seasonandplaceinasiphonwith2charges.

ToserveMixthesquidandoctopuswiththerocotocream,keylimejuice,Piscoandonionthenseason.

Fillthemartiniglasswiththecevicheandplacesomeofthefoamontoptodecorate.

Tips:Whenboilingtheoctopus,putawhitepotatoofaboutthesamesizeastheoctopus in the saucepan. When the potato is cooked, the octopus should becookedaswell.Servethecevicheascoldaspossible,preferablychillingthemartiniglassbeforeuse.

MUSCIAMEDEATÚN

LuisEnriqueCorderoisanotablefisherman,philosopher,chefandfriend.HisaresomeofthemostfundamentalseafooddishesinPeru.Sittingattableinhisrestaurant,Kapallaq,transportsyouimmediatelytotheseaside.


1½oz(40g)oftunamusciame(cutinfinesliceslikesalame)1tbsporegano1tbspwhitevinegar3tbspextravirgenoliveoil½finelymincedcloveofgarlicSlicesofavocadoFineslicesoftomatoSodacrackersortoastpoints

Preparation

Placetheslicesoftunamusciameinabowlandaddthegarlic,oliveoil,vinegarandoregano.Mixwellsothatthemusciameabsorbsthedifferentflavors.

Toserve,place theslicesofavocadoonadinnerplatewith the tomatoontop.Finally,placethetunamusciameontopofthisandserveeitherwithsodacrackersortoastpoints.

Tip:DoNOTaddsaltasthemusciameisalreadyverysalty.

PEJERREYAHUMADO,CREMADECILANTRO,CHOCLOFRITOY

CAMOTEDULCE

“ThisdishisaresultofmyexperienceworkingatCalaRestaurant,”IvánKisicrecounts.“I found this sauce ina classic ceviche recipebookand from that Iadapted several products treating them in differentways. This led to flavorfulharmony between the smoked, fried and sweet flavors and best of all, thecilantro–citric–lactic(Parmesancheese)combination.”


12FreshsmeltsorPeruviansilversidefillets1cup(250ml)lechedetigre8tbspgreentealeaves8tbspnaturalbrownsugar8tbsplong-grainrice

Thecilantrocream6tsp(30ml)lechedetigre6tsp(12g)ParmesancheeseSaltandpeppertotaste2-3tbspcilantroleaves1egg1½cups(360ml)vegetableoil

Thegrilledcornonthecob3cornonthecob3tbspunsaltedbutterSalttotaste

Theglazedsweetpotatoes2sweetpotatoes1/3cup(100ml)orangejuice2/3cup(200ml)water6tbsp(80g)whitesugar1staranise

Toserve3cilantroflowerorsprigofcilantro

Preparation

TopreparethefishCleanthesilversidefillets.TheycanbesmokedwithgreenteaeitherbyusingaSmokingGun(followmanufacturer’sinstructions)orwokwith a steamer tray or any rack. Line wok with a couple of layers of strongaluminumfoil,placerice,sugarandgreentealeavesonthefoilandstartheatingovermediumhighheat.Lowertheheatwhentheleavesaresmoking.Placethefish filletson the steaming racka coupleof inchesormoreabove the tin foil.Cover.Let smoke for 20minutes, turning off fire toward end. Putwet towelsovertoptokeepthesmokein.Setaside.

TopreparethecilantrocreamBlanchthecilantroleavesandblendtogetherwiththeeggand theoilas ifmakingmayonnaise.Mix together theLechede tigre,Parmesancheeseandthecilantrocream.Seasontotaste.

TopreparethecornonthecobSmearthecornwithbutterandsaltandcookonthegrill.Removethekernelsofcornfromthecobandsetasidehot.

TopreparetheglazedsweetpotatoesPeelthesweetpotatoesandsimmerwiththeother ingredientsover lowheat forapproximately2hours.Remove,cut incubesandsetaside.

ToserveJustbeforeserving,useabrushtocoverthesilversideswiththelechedetigre.Use the cilantro cream to paint the plate. Place the silverside fillets gentlytwistedanddecoratewiththekernelsofcorn,thesweetpotatoesandthecilantroflower.

PULPOALCARBÓNMORADO,EMULSIÓNDEPALTA,PACCHOI,

EMULSIÓNDEOLIVOYGREMOLATA



2lb(1kg)ofoctopus

Forthecharcoaloil2cups(500ml)vegetableoil2lb(1kg)ofpurplecorn

Fortheavocadopaint2avocadosJuiceof3keylimes1/2tsp(2g)saltPinch(1g)groundwhitepepper1tsp(5ml)oliveoil

Forthepacchoi(Chinesecabbage)4½oz(130g)bunchofpacchoiWater1tsp(5g)saltOliveoil

Fortheolivepaint3½oz(100g)blackolives,withoutpits1tbsp(15g)mayonnaise1tsp(5ml)oliveoil

Forthegremolatasauce2tbsp(30g)parsley1tbsp(15g)garlic2tsp(10g)capers1tsp(5g)anchovies1tsp(5g)keylimeandlima(Citruslimetta)zest2tbsp(30ml)oliveoil

Preparation

To prepare the octopusClean the octopus. Cut in 2 cm rounds then put in asaucepanandcoverwithwater.Cookovermediumheatfor45minutes.

TopreparethecharcoaloilShellthepurplecorn.Charthecornonitscobinafrying pan over high heat or with a blowtorch, and put in a bowl with thevegetableoil.Placethepiecesofoctopusinthisoil.

Toprepare thepacchoiBlanchinsaltedboilingwater.Strainandsetaside tocool.

TopreparetheavocadopaintBlendtheavocadowith thekey lime juice,saltandwhitepepperandemulsifywiththeoliveoil.

TopreparetheolivepaintRinsetheoliveswell inordertoremoveanyexcesssalt.Blendwiththemayonnaiseandemulsifywiththeoliveoil.

TopreparethegremolatasauceFinelymincetheparsley,garlic,anchoviesandcapers.Cookforafewseconds inafryingpanwith theoliveoil.Addthekeylimeandlimazest.

ToservePutthepacchoionthedinnerplateandontopofthisatoneend,placethe pieces of octopus. Use the avocado paint to make a flourish around theoctopusandusetheolivepaintandthegremolatatopaintdotsontheavocadopaintandontheplate.

ROCOTOSRELLENOSDEMORCILLA

PedroMiguelSchiaffinotellsusabouttheoriginsofhiswell-knowndish.“Theidea for thisdishcame tomebeforeowning theMalabar restaurant.Onedaywhile trying out different ingredients for the Italian condiment mostarda—thesweet-sourItalian fruitcondimentwithapunchofmustard—weendedupwithrocoto mostarda. A friend who is a chef and also a journalist tried it andsuggestedthatwetryfillingitwithmincedmeat.So,aftertryingdifferentkindsofstuffing,thisdishwascreated.”


8thickslicesofcookedyellowpotato,friedgoldenbrownSpearmintleaves

Fortherocotos8redrocotosWhitesugar

Forthestuffing1tbspbutter2tbsp.(30g)ajíamarillowithoutmembraneorseeds,chopped½cup(50g)dicedwhiteonion½tbspblendedgarlic1cup(100g)cookedrice½lb(200g)morcilla,bloodsausageorblackpudding2tsp(10g)raisins1tsp(5g)choppedpeanuts1tbspparsley,minced1tbspmincedspearmintleavesSaltandpeppertotaste

Fortheajíamarillosauce1/3cup(60gajíamarillopaste1tbsp(15g)butter2tbsp(1oz)whitewine½cup(100g)darkmeatstock1clovegarlic,mashedFreshrosemarySaltandpepper

Preparation

Wash the rocotos and, using a very sharp knife, remove the seeds and whitemembranes.Cuteachrocoto intoquarters.Washtherocotosagain,drain themandplacetheminacontainerwithalid.Weigh therocotosandaddhalfof theirweight insugar.Coverandrefrigerateovernight. The following day, the rocotos should have released some of theirwaterwhich should be strained and boiled in a small saucepan.As soon as itstarts to boil, return to the container and cover. Once again, place in therefrigeratorovernight.Repeatthisprocessfor4days.Onthefifthday,cookthe

rocotoswithallof theirwaterwhich,by this time, shouldno longerhaveanygranular sugar residues. Cook overmedium heatmoving continually until theliquidreachestheconsistencyoflightsyrup.Removefromtheheatandletcool.Pickoffthethinhardouterskinoftherocotos.

ForthestuffingPutthebutterinafryingpanoverlowheat,cooktheonion,ajíamarillo and garlic until soft. Remove the blood sausage casing and add thesausagefillingandcontinuecookingslowlyuntilitturnsadarkercolor.Addthecookedriceandcontinuetocook,mixingcontinuallyuntilitbeginstotakeonadough-like consistency. Season with salt and pepper then add the choppedparsley,spearmint,peanutsand,finally,theraisins.Mixalltogetherandcorrectseasoning.Transferthemixturetoabakingsheetandletcool.

TostufftherocotosPlace4slicesofrocotoonapieceofverylightlyoiledclingfilm.Placeanotherpieceofclingfilmontopoftherocoto.Withameathammerormalletflattentherocotostoformaverythincircularsheetofrocoto.Removetheupperpieceofclingfilmandplace1/3cup(70g)ofstuffingon top.Drawtogether thecornersof theclingfilmthuscoveringthestuffingandmakinganapproximately1½in(4cm)ball.Closewell.

For the saucePlace a little butter in the fryingpan and cook theají amarillopaste with the crushed garlic clove. Add the wine and reduce until no wineremains.Add the broth and reduce by half. Seasonwith salt and pepper. Passthroughaconicalstrainerandfinishbyaddingtherosemaryandthebuttertothesauce.

Toserve,heattherocotosinthemicrowaveoven.Gentlyremovetheclingfilm.Place a golden slice of yellow potato on the plate, cover with the heated ajíamarillosauceandfinishbyplacingarocotoontop.Usethespearmintleavestodecorate.

TIP:Foradifferentflavor,tryplacingthesauceononesideplateinsteadofonthepotato.

ROLLS

BERENJAKAO



Fortheeggplants4Japaneseeggplants¾cup(100gr)cornstarchSalttotaste½literoil(forfrying)

Forthestuffing11oz(300g)choppedcrawfishtails7oz(200g)choppedpork1oz(30g)choppedDonkumushrooms3tbsp(30g)choppedcarrot1¾oz(50g)choppedwaterchestnuts½tsp(5g)choppedajílimo2tbsp(10g)cornstarch4tsp(20ml)water2tsp(10ml)sesameseedoilChoppedspringonionsAjílimocutinfineJulienne

Forthesauce31/2tbsp(50g)oystersauce4tsp(20ml)soysauce2tsp(10ml)sesameseedoil2/3cups(200ml)chickenstock1tbsp(5g)cornstarchdissolvedinwaterSalttotasteWhitesugar

Preparation

To prepare the eggplantsCut off the ends and the sides of the eggplants andmake a shallower cut down the middle to remove some of the heart of eacheggplant.Seasonwithsalt.

To prepare the stuffing Place all of the ingredients in a bowl and mix well,hittingthesidesofthebowltogentlytosstheingredientsuntilblended(stirringtends to break themup). Fill the eggplantswith the stuffing and coat them incornstarch.Heat theoil to355ºF (180ºC) then fry theeggplants for8minutes.Removefromtheoilandplaceonabsorbentpaperkitchentowel.Setasidehot.

TopreparethesauceHeatthechickenstockinafryingpanandaddtheoystersauce, thesoysauceandthesesameseedoil.Bindwiththecornstarch.Seasonwithsaltandsugartotaste.Setasidehot.

ToserveCuteacheggplant in5equalslicesandserveonadinnerplate.PoursauceovertheeggplantslicesandsprinklewiththespringonionandajílimocutinJulienne.

CAUSAKI

ChefDanielManrique says,“Thisdish isaproductof thePeruvian-JapanesefusionthatisalltherageinLimaatthemoment.Iamafanaticofmakirollsandwasalways interested in innovatingwith the yellowpotato in themost criollowaypossible.Inthisrecipewewantedtocreateatotallyinnovativeconcept.Wetriedusingcausabutworkingitlikeamakirollandtheresultwasspectacular.ThedeliciousmixtureofPeruandJapan.”

Ingredients(Serves1makiroll)

6oz(160g)causa1oz(35g)avocado1oz(30g)creamcheese

3oz(80g)finecarpaccio-styleslicesofflounderfillet2oz(60g)crayfishtails1scantcup(50g)panko(Japanese-stylebreadcrumbs)50gHuancaínasauce

Forthecausa7oz(200g)yellowpotatoes2tbspvegetableoilJuiceof½keylime1tbspajíamarillopasteSaltandwhitepeppertotaste

ForDaniel’sajíamarilloHuancaínasauce4tsp(20g)ajíamarillopaste4tsp(20ml)evaporatedmilk1tsp(1g)finelymincedparsley1tbsp(15ml)keylimejuiceSalttotaste

FortheChalacasauce¼cup(25g)brunoisecutredonion1tsp(5g)brunoisecutrocoto1tsp(5g)brunoisecuttomato2tsp(10ml)keylimejuice2tsp(10ml)vegetableoil1tsp(1g)cilantro

Forthegarnish½oz(20g)crunchyfriedshoestringcamote(sweetpotato)

Preparation

To prepare the causa Boil well-scrubbed potatoes in salted water until soft,about15to20minutes.Whencoolenoughtohandle,butstillhot,peelandriceormash,makingsurenottoleaveanylumps.Addvegetableoil,keylimejuice,ají amarillo paste, salt and white pepper. Mix together and knead untilhomogenous.

TopreparethecrayfishCoat crayfish tails in panko, the Japanese-style bread crumbs, and fry untilgoldenandcrunchy.

TopreparetheHuancaínasaucePutalltheingredientstogetherinablenderandblenduntilyouobtainasmooth,creamyconsistency.Whenpreparing theajíamarillopaste for thisdish,makesurethatitisnotspicy.

TopreparetheChalacasauceMixalltheingredientstogetherinabowlreadytobeservedimmediately.

Toprepare themakirollPlace thecausaonamakisu(bamboomatforrollingmaki)andspreadorpatitoutevenlytoformarectangle¼in(½cm)thick.Ontopfirstplacethefriedcrayfish tailssothat theyuniformlycrossthecenterofthecausalayer.Nextarrangethecreamcheeseandfinallyavocado,coveringallofthecausa.

Thenextstepistorollupthemat,pressingevenlytomakeacompactrollthatwillkeepitsshapewhencutintosegments.

Lastly,arrange theslicesofflounderfilleton topofyourroll.Cut therollinto8equalsegments.

ToserveThemakishouldbeservedexactlyasshowninthephotograph.Placethe maki rolls in the center of a dinner place and proceed to cover with theHuancaínasauce,usingtheChalacasauceandthefriedshoestringcamotestodecoratetheplate.

CONCHITASALAPARMESANAROLL

ThisisoneofJannVanOordt’sdishesfromSenseRestaurant.Itisamakirollfilled with furai shrimp and avocado, topped with Peruvian-style au-gratinscallops.

Ingredients(Serves2x2makirolls)

Englishbutter2tbsp(30ml)Worcestershiresauce4tsp(20ml)soysauce2tbsp(30ml)keylimejuice3½oz(100g)butterSaltandpeppertotaste

Shari(sushirice),seelink

Furaishrimptails10shrimptails2/3cup(100g)plainflour1egg,beaten1½cups(100g)panko(Japanesebreadcrumbs)

Tomakethemakiroll21/3cups(280g)shari(sushirice)1sheetnori¼lb(120g)offuraishrimptails4oz(120g)avocado3tbsp(50g)Parmesancheese5½oz(160g)scallops(withoutcoral)

Preparation

To make the English butter: Melt the butter over low heat and add theWorcestershire and soy sauces alongwith thekey lime juice, salt and pepper.Mixwell.

Seethelinktomaketheshari(sushirice).

Topreparethefurai(battered,deep-fried)shrimptailsRemovethechitinoustipofthetailifithasbeenlefton,andbutterflytheshrimp.Seasontotasteandthencoat first in flour, then in thebeateneggand finally in thepanko.Deep fry incookingoil.

ThemakirollsOnamakisu(bamboomatforrollingmaki)placethesushiriceandspreadorpatitouttoformarectangle.Ontopplacehalfasheetofnoriandon top of that place the furai shrimps and the slices of avocado.Make a rollpressingevenlyandgentlysothattherolliscompactforslicing.

ToserveCutscallopshorizontally into twoor threeroundseach.Slice therollinto10piecesandplaceascalloproundoneachpiece.PuttheParmesancheeseontopofthescalloproundsanddrizzlewiththeEnglishbutter.Broiltherollinovenforjustafewsecondsuntilcheeseisgolden.

Tip: Serve extra English butter on the side for use as a dipping sauce as youwouldwithsoysauce.

MAKIACEVICHADO

ToshiroisoneofPeru’sgreatNikkeichefsandacolleagueofNobu’swhentheyboth came to Lima from Japan in the 1970’s. Toshi is amaster of Japanese-Peruvianfusioncuisine.

Ingredients(Makes4,10piecessushimakirolls)Shari(sushirice)

Forthefriedshrimptails3½oz(100g)panko(Japanese-stylebreadcrumbs)2cups(500ml)vegetableoil

Toshi-stylelechedetigre

Forthemaki11/3lb(600g)sharirice8ebifuray26-304oz(120g)Philadelphiaorotherbrandcreamcheese4oz(120g)avocado,cutinsticksToastedwhitesesameseeds2sheetsofnori(driededibleseaweed)cutin2

Fortheceviche-stylesauce½cupToshi-stylelechedetigreArbequineextravirginoliveoil,totaste1¾oz(50g)orroughly¼ofanavocadoSichimitogarashi(p.37),totaste

Preparation

SeelinktomaketheShari(sushirice).

TopreparethefriedshrimptailsEbiistheJapanesewordforshrimpandfuraymeansbatteredorbreadedanddeepfried.Thesearecultivatedsaltwatershrimpand26-30referstotheirsize,thatthereare26-30perpound.Coatyourshrimptails inpanko, theJapanese-stylebreadcrumbs thenheat thevegetableoil inamedium-sized fryingpan.When the oil is really hot, fry the shrimp tails untiltheyfloatandaregoldenandcrunchy,approximately3minutes.

SeelinktopreparethelechedetigreToshi-style.

To prepare the maki Prepare an uramaki, which is the opposite of a maki.Insteadofthedriedseaweedbeingplacedontheoutsideandthericeinside,thericewillbeontheoutsidefollowedbythesheetofdriedseaweed.

Inamakisu(bamboorollingmat)placethesushiriceandflattenittoformarectangle.On topplacehalfasheetofnoriandon topof thatplace thecreamcheese,thefriedshrimptailsandthesticksofavocado.Makearollpressingall

the time so that the roll is equally compact for cutting. Place the roll in thesesameseedsand turnoverandoveruntil themaki iscompletelycovered.Setasideintherefrigerator.

Topreparetheceviche-stylesauceMixthe lechedetigre, the1¾oz(50g)ofavocadoandtheoil.Blenduntilyouobtainaveryfine,creamysauce.Strainandsetasideintherefrigerator.

ToserveCuteachmakirollinto10evenpieces.Placetheminthemiddleofadinnerplateanddrizzlewiththeceviche-stylesauce.Usethesichimitogarashitogarnish.

ROLLITOSDEPEJERREYCONCAUSADEYUCAYSALSA

ACEVICHADACONAROMASDECULANTRO

TheideaforthisdishcametoMarilúMadueñoasshewastryingtorecreatethecoated silversides that hermother remembered fromher childhood. Insteadofusing a traditional coating, she decided to use one that would make the fishcrunchierandthenservethemasanappetizerwrappedaroundcausamadeofyuca.

Ingredients(Makes6piecespejerreyrolls)

3cleanedsmeltsorPeruviansilversides1egg3springrollwrappersOilforfrying

Yuca(manioc)causa¾lb(350g)yellowyuca½cup(100g)ajíamarillopaste1tbsp(15ml)vegetableoilSalttoflavorJuiceof3lemons

Ceviche-stylesaucewithcilantroleaf1cupofcilantroleaves2tbspmayonnaise¼cupTiger’sMilkTogarashi

SalsaCriolla½redonioncutinthinlengthwiseslices,soakedinwaterwithsalt,then

rinsedandwelldrained1tomato,peeled,seededandcutinjulienne1ajíamarillo,withoutseedsormembrane,cutinjulienneAfewcoarselychoppedcilantroleaves1tbspkeylimejuice3tbspoliveoilSaltandpeppertotaste

Preparation

TomaketheyucacausaBoilthepiecesofpeeledyuca(manioc)inasaucepan

withsalt andwater.Whencooked,andvery tender,drainwell anddry.Whilestillhot,putthroughapotatoricerormash,makingsurenottoleaveanylumps.Let cool. Add the ají amarillo paste, the key lime juice, salt and finally thevegetable oil. Knead the yuca mixture until the dough is homogeneous.Refrigerate.

Tomaketheroll-upsCuteachsilversideinhalflengthwiseandsetaside.Cutthespring rollwrappers in strips the samewidth as the fish halves. Place strip ofspringrollwrapperonacuttingboard,andontopofthislayoneofthesilversidehalves.Ontopofthat,place1tablespoonofyucacausa.Rolluplikeajellyrollandpainttheedgeattheendofthewrapperwitheggbattertomakeitstick.

Tomaketheceviche-stylesaucewithcilantroIn a blender, process the cilantro leaveswith themayonnaise, add theTiger’sMilkandfinally,sometogarashitotaste.

TopreparethesalsacriollaMixalltheingredients,seasonwithsalt,pepper,keylimejuiceandoliveoil.

Deep fry the silverside roll-ups in abundant hot oil until the wrapper islightlygolden,removeandplaceonpapertowel.

Servetheroll-upsontopoftheceviche-stylesauceandaccompanywiththesalsacriolla.

Tip:ThissalsacriollarecipeisavariationoftheoneshowninBasicRecipes.

TIRADITO

TIRADITODECONCHAS,TARTARDECONCHAS,POLVODECORAL,PAPAHUAMANTANGACONFITADA

ENTUBOYLECHEDETIGREAMARILLA

VirgilioMartínezisoneofPeru’stopchefs.Atruecutting-edgefusioncreator,heisalsoadeeplyphilosophicalgastronomicthinkerandintenselyintouchwith

the“terroirs”.AllthishappensmagicallyathisrestaurantCentralinLima.


Topreparethetiradito13oz(360g)scallops

Forthetartarsauce14oz(400g)scallops8tsp(40g)mayonnaise2tsp(12g)salt2tsp(8g)groundwhitepepper

Forthecoralpowder5oz(140g)scallopcorals4tsp(20ml)oliveoil3tbsp(40ml)whitewine

Forthepotato8Huamantanga(creamywhite)potatoes1½cups(350ml)oliveoil2tsp(10g)garlic2sprigsofrosemary

ForVirgilio’slechedetigre1cup(240g)Tiger’sMilkbase1cup(240g)ajíamarillopasteJuiceof1lb(500g)keylimes1tsp(5g)salt2sprigsofcilantro1ajílimocutinhalf

Edibleflowers

Preparation

TopreparethetiraditoFinelyslicethescallopshorizontally.

TopreparethetartarsauceDicethescallopsthenaddthemayonnaise,saltandpepper.

To prepare the coral powderSweat the scallop corals in a saucepanwith theolive oil over lowheat for about 3minutes.Deglazewith thewhitewine andreduceuntilyouobtainapaste-likeconsistency.Placethepasteonasilpatandspreadoutevenly to formavery fine layer.Cook in theovenat194ºF (90ºC)untilitdries,about20minutes.

TopreparethepotatoesPeelthepotatoesand,withthehelpofanapplecorer,formcylinders.Cookthepotatoesveryslowlyinoliveoiloveralowheatwiththewholegarlicclovesandthesprigsofrosemaryuntiltheyaresoft.

ToprepareVirgilio’slechedetigreMixtheTiger’sMilkbasewiththeajíamarillopasteandthekeylimejuiceandleavetostandforafewsecondswiththeajílimohalves.Checkforsalt.

ToservePaintsomelechedetigreinalineonaplateandarrangetheslicesofscallopontopofthis.Thecoralpowdergoestoonesideofthescallops.Usethetartarsauceforleavinglargedotsaroundtheplateontowhichyouwillplacethepotatoes.Decoratewithedibleflowers.

Note:Donotsqueeze the limesfor this recipeveryhard toavoid thebitteroilfromtheskinmixingwiththejuice.

TIRADITODEMARACUYA

Jann Van Oordt tells us: “This was and still is the best-selling dish in myrestaurantsandcanbedescribedasfollows:slicesoffreshsalmonwithdelicatedrops of key lime, passion fruit syrup on the side, cooled by extremely freshwatercress leaves and crisp shoestring phyllo. The flavor can be bestappreciated when eaten all together as each distinct taste sensation can beexperiencedinperfectcombination.”


13oz(360g)freshsalmonfillets

2-3tsp(10-15g)Pichicataseasoning(recipebelow)4tbsp(60ml)keylimejuice6tbsp(90ml)passionfruitjuice3½oz(100g)watercress3½oz(100g)stripsofphyllopastry

Pichicata4tbsp(90g)salt6tsp(30g)JapanesehondashispiceScant4tsp(15g)groundblackpepper

Passionfruitsauce14tbsp(200ml)purepassionfruitjuice1cup(200g)sugar7tbsp(100g)mayonnaise

Phyllostrips3½oz(100g)phyllodough7tbsp(100ml)cookingoil

Preparation

TomakethepassionfruitsauceReducethesugarandthepassionfruitjuiceinasaucepanuntilahoney-likeconsistencyisformed.Leavetocoolandmixwiththemayonnaise.

TomakethestripsofphyllodoughCutthepastryinasfinestripsaspossibleasiftheywerefinestring.Deepfrythestripsinoiluntiltheyarecrisp.Drainthemofexcessoilonpaperkitchentowel.

Cut the salmon into sashimi slices that are as fine as possible and place themevenlyonaplate.SeasoneachsliceofsalmonwiththePichicataseasoninganddrizzlewith key lime juice. After a few seconds, coverwith the passion fruitsauce.Accompanywiththewatercressandstripsofphyllodough.

Tip:Serveimmediatelyasthekeylimejuicewillwhitenthesalmonstrips.

TUBÉRCULOS,BULBOSYRAÍCES

“Theideaofthisdish,”accordingtoDiegoMuñoz,“istoimitatewhatweseeinNature, starting with a hot garlic foam, then the most typical root crops,followed by an imitation ‘soil’ made of potatoes and onions; topped with thegreens of the root crops represented; and completing the dishwith flowers toimplythebeginningofanewcycle.”


Forthebeetgel1mediumbeetXanthangumSherryvinegarSaltWhitesugar

Fortherocoto“paint”1smallrocotoSugarSalt

Fortheroots8babycarrotswiththeirtops8babyturnipswiththeirtops1sweetpotato2smallollucos2smallmashuas2ocas1yuca1purplepotato2radishes1gobo(burdockroot)½literofsunfloweroil2babypotatoes1tsp(5g)unsaltedbutter1scanttsp(4g)sugar½cloveofgarlic1sprigofthyme½bayleaf

Forthehotgarlicfoam20clovesofgarlicwithoutgermorsproutsSalt1¼cups(300g)ofheavycream1tsp(5g)agaragar1½-litersiphon2N2Ocartridges

OthersCarrotgreensRadishgreensBeetgreensArugulaleavesMarigoldflowersPansyflowers

Forthe“soil”ofpotato,onion,andparsley1smallwhitepotato1whiteonion¼bunchofplainparsley

Preparation

Washthebeetwellandpeelit,thencookitinwaterwithsaltandsugar.Onceitiscooked,makeacreamorpuréeintheblender,addingasufficientquantityofthewateritwascookedin,aswellassaltandadashofsherryvinegarforawell-balancedflavortendingmoretowardsacid.Addxanthaninaproportionofabout¼tsptoacup(0.9grper100gr)ofbeetpurée,togiveitageltexture.Sprinklethepowderedxanthanontopofthepuréewhileblendingorwhisking.Pourintoababy’snursingbottle.Keepinacoldplace.

Wash the rocoto well and burn the outer skin over an open flame. Cool,peel,removeseedsandmembranesandblanchthepulp3timessothatitwillnotbetoospicy.Processtherocotopepperpulp,strainthroughafunnelsieve,andreduceinasmallsaucepan,untilitisslightlythick;addsalttotaste.Keepina

coldplace.Peelthecarrotsandturnips;donotremovethegreenstems;cookinafrying

pan with water half way up the sides of the vegetables, with unsalted butter,sugar, salt andpepper; stir the vegetables in the fryingpan as thewater startsreducing; finishbyglazing thevegetableswith thebutter and sugar left in thebottomofthepan;donotovercook.

Cut sweet potato into 3cm sticks, boil them inwaterwith salt, sugar, andaniseeduntilsoft;removefromheatandkeeptheminthecookingliquid.

Washtheollucos,mashuasandocaswell,steamthem,andpeelthemwhilehot.

Slicethepurplepotatoandfryinoilheatedto285ºF(140°C.)Cutthinslicesofyucaintodisks¾in(2cm)indiameter,andfrytheminoilat285ºF(140ºC).

Peelthegoboandkeepitinwatertopreventoxidation,cookinwaterwithsaltandalittleflour,untilsoft.

Sliceradishesasthinlyaspossible,andplaceinicewater.Cook baby potatoes in water with thyme, garlic, salt, and bay leaf, on

medium heat; when they are cooked, remove them and cut them in quarters;scoopoutasmuchofthefleshofthepotatoasyoucan,leavingthewafer-thinpotatoskins;leavethemtodryinawarmplace,thenfrythemat320ºF(160ºC);sprinklewithsalttotaste.

Blanch the garlic cloves 7 times from cold water and the 8th time coverthemwiththecream;cookatalowtemperatureuntilthegarlicisverysoft,andsprinklewithsalttotaste.

Blendwhile hot andmixwith the agar agar; raise the temperature of themixture.Putthemixtureinthesiphon,loadwiththenitrogenandleavetostandfor2hours.Heatthesiphonto140ºF(60ºC)beforeserving.

Gratethepeeledpotatoonthefinestpartofthegrater,rinsewithwateranddrythoroughly.Frythepotatofragmentsinoilat300ºF(150ºC).Drainanddryonabsorbentpaper,sprinklewithfinesalttotaste.Finelyslicetheonion,placeiton a silpat and dry in the oven at 140ºF (60ºC) all night long; once it is dry,crush in a processor. Finely chop the parsley, remove surpluswater, and dry.Mixthe3ingredients,combiningthecolorstomakethemlooklikethesoilofacultivatedfield.

Wash the greenswell and dry them; remove the petals from themarigoldflowers;removethestemsofthepansies.

Finishingandpresentation

Heat the carrots and turnips in a frying pan. Grill the sweet potato with thesyrupy cookingwater. Heat the ollucos, ocas, andmashuas in themicrowaveoven.Onaflatplate,paintalineofrocotocream,andplaceasmallamountofbeetgel.

Serveaportionofhotgarlicfoam.Arrangethevegetablesonthefoam,andcoverwithpotatoandonion“soil”.Place the yuca chips, potato chips, andpotato skins on the plate.Arrange thegreensandflowersoverthewholeplate.

Howtoeat:Tryeachofthevegetableswiththehotgarlicfoam.

MainDishes

ARROCES

ARROZTAPADODECANGREJO

LuisEnriqueCorderoisanotablefisherman,philosopher,chefandfriend.HisaresomeofthemostfundamentalseafooddishesinPeru.Sittingattableinhisrestaurant,Kapallaq,transportsyouimmediatelytotheseaside.


20oz(600g)crabmeat(well-cleaned)2tomatoes,peeled,seeded,chopped

1redonion,cutinsmalljulienne2tbspmashedgarlic½cupvegetableoilSalttotaste4eggs4hard-boiledeggs,mincedSlicedgreenolivesfordecoration½cupoliveoil2cupsfreshlycookedwhiterice(seeArrozalaperuana)

Preparation

Whenthericehasfinishedcooking,drizzlesomeoftheoliveoiloverit inthepot,closethelid,setasidewarm.

Inafryingpan,frytheonionandgarlicseasoningbaseinthevegetableoil,thenadd thecrabmeat.Cookwell for3minutes thenadd the raweggstirringwellsoastoemulsifythepreparation.Next,addthetomatomixinginthefinelymincedhard-boiledeggattheveryend.Makesureyoustircontinuallysoastoavoidburningthemixture.

To serve Oil a ricemold. First put a layer of rice in the bottom of themoldfollowedbythecrabmeatmixtureandfinallycoverwithanotherlayerofrice.Useyourhandstopressdowntherice,makingsureitiscompact.

Unmold in themiddle of a dinner plate and pour a little of the crabmeatmixtureoverthetopoftherice.Finally,usetheoliveslicestodecorate.

ARROZVERDECONCURRYYCONCHAS

ThisisanotherJannVanOordt’sdishfromSenserestaurant.Greenricewithatouch of green curry and beer. Crowned with stir-fried scallops served withfreshredrocoto.


8½oz(240g)scallops

2½cups(300g)cookedwhiterice1/3cup(80g)whiteonion,chopped

1oz(30g)dicedorpuréedgarlic1/3oz(10g)greencurry5½tbsp(80ml)fishfumet¼cup(60ml)whitewine¼cup(60ml)blendedcilantro¼cup(60ml)ajíamarillopaste¼cup(60ml)beer1keylime

Cilantrofordecoration2¾oz(80g)rocoto

Preparation

Cookthericeyouaregoingtouse.

Seelinktomakethefishfumet.

Tomake thegreencurry rice In a fryingpan,brown thewhiteonion togetherwith thegarlic.Add theají amarillopaste, theblendedcilantro and thegreencurryandcook foraboutaminute.Add thecooked riceandall the liquidandmixwell.

Inaseparatefryingpan,veryquicklybrownthescallops(sothattheyarenotover-cooked)andimmediatelymixwiththerice.

Remove the seeds andveinsof the rocoto. Julienne the rocoto and seasonwiththesaltandkeylimejuice.

ToservePlacethericeandscallopsinthemiddleofadinnerplateusingsomeoftherocototodecoratealongwithsomemincedcilantro.

ATÚNCONTAMARINDOYCOCO



Forthefreshtuna1½lb(680g)freshtunafillet2/3tsp(4g)saltBlackpeppertotaste½lb(220g)choisam½lb(240g)kai-lan1oz(30g)butter½tbsp(5g)mincedgarlicSalttotaste

Forthecoconutfoam1cup(250ml)chickenstock3stalks(3g)lemongrass2keylimeleaves,chopped½tbsp(2g)cilantro,chopped1teaspoon(1g)redThaicurrypowder2/3cup(200ml)coconutmilk1¾oz(50g)gratedfreshcoconut½tsp(2g)sugar1tsp(5g)cornstarch1eggwhiteSalttotaste

Forthetamarindsauce1cup(250ml)chickenstock1cup(250ml)seafoodstock(mixedseafood)31/2oz(100g)tamarindbase2¾tbsp(40g)oystersauce4tsp(20ml)sesameseedoilScanttbsp(3g)cilantro1tbsp(6g)choppedspringonion5gkombu(kelp)4oz(120g)shitakemushrooms(soakandchop)Saltandsugartotaste2/3cup(60g)springonion,thewhitepartcutinjulienne3tbsp(40ml)sesameseedoil

Forthewinterfriedrice3tbsp(40ml)oliveoil½tbsp(5g)choppedgarlic2tsp(5g)choppedfreshginger3oz(80g)choppedbroccoli3oz(80g)choppedasparagus2oz(60g)bambooshoots1¾oz(50g)friedChinesenoodles5cups(600g)cookedrice4tsp(20ml)sesameseedoil2eggwhitesSaltandpeppertotaste

Preparation

TopreparethefreshtunaCutthefreshtunasteakin4equalparts.Seasonwithsaltandblackpepper.

Sealthefishonthegrill,oneminuteoneachside,thenremoveandcuteachpiecein3.Setasidehot.

Fry the choi sam (also called choy sum) or flowering white cabbage(BrassicaChinensisvar.parachinensis)andkai-lanorChinesebroccoli(Brassicaoleracea) in plenty of oil for a few seconds. Strainwell and place on kitchenpaper towel. Inafryingpan,brownthegarlicwith thebutterandaddthechoisamandkai-lan.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,sautéandsetasidehot.

To prepare the coconut foam In a saucepan boil the chicken stock. Add thelemongrass and chopped key lime leaves, the chopped cilantro and gratedcoconut.Boiluntilitisreducedbyhalfandtheherbshavebeeninfused.Strainintoanothersaucepanandplaceovermediumheat,addthecurrypowderandthecoconutmilk.Seasonwithsaltandsugarthenbindwithcornstarchdissolvedin2 tsp (30ml) water. Strain through a very fine sieve. Fill a siphon with thismixture adding an eggwhite, sealwell then inject a gas cartridge.Shakewellandmaintainat160ºF(70ºC).

To prepare the tamarind sauce Bring the two stocks to a boil together in asaucepan.Add the chopped shitakemushrooms, the kombukelp, the tamarindandtheremainingingredientsandletcookforabout5minutes.Correctforsalt.Setasideandstrainbeforeusing.

TopreparethefriedriceWhisktheeggwhites.Addalittleoiltoanonstickpanand use the whisked eggs whites to make an omelet.When cooked, cut intostripsandaddtothefriedrice.

Heat the olive oil in awok. Add the chopped garlic and fresh ginger, thechoppedasparagusandbroccoli.Sautéoverhighheatfor20seconds.Sautéforafew secondsmore before incorporating the rice. Seasonwith salt, pepper andsesameseedoilandsautéuntiltheingredientsarewellmixedtogether.Finally,add the friedChinese noodles and the bamboo shoots.Mixwell and serve inindividualricedishes.

ToserveInadeepbowlservethesautéedchoisamandkai-laninthreedifferentpiles. Place a piece of tuna on top of each one. Pour the tamarind sauce overeachpieceoffishthenplacethespringonioncutinjulienneontopofthatand

drizzlewithateaspoonofveryhotsesameseedoil.Finishbycrowningwiththecoconutfoam.Servewiththefriedriceonthesideinanotherbowl.

CABRITOORGÁNICODELAFAMILIAIGREDA



2kid(babygoat)shoulders

Forthestuffing3½oz(100g)kidsweetbread1¾oz(50g)kidkidneys3½oz(100g)kidliverSaltandpeppertotaste

4kidchopsKidstock2cups(½liter)chichadejoraAbout17(50g)wholegarliccloves8tsp(40g)freshrosemary2/3tsp(4g)salt

Fortheconfitpotatocylinders1¾lb(800g),PeruvianPapaRosada(substitutewithredpotatoes)7cloves(20g)garlic1cup(250ml)oliveoil1/2tsp(3g)salt

Forthelochesquashpurée½lb(250g)loche(substitutewithbutternutsquash)cookedandriced3½oz(100g)butterSalttotaste

Forthechirimpico2/3cup(60g)choppedwhiteonion4tsp(20g)roastedgarlicpaste8tsp(40g)ajíamarillopaste1¾oz(50g)kidheartcutincubes1¾oz(50g)cookedkidlungscutincubes1½oz(40g)kidtripe,incubes1½oz(40g)yuca,chopped½oz(40g)squash,chopped2/3cup(150ml)chichadejora1¼cups(300ml)kidgibletstock8tsp(40g)choppedajíamarillo8tsp(40ml)oliveoil½cup(30g)choppedmintSalt,pepperandcilantrototaste

Forthesangrecita1lb(½kg)precookedandchoppedkidblood6tbsp(60g)choppedredonion8tsp(40g)choppedajíamarillo2tbsp(30g)roastedgarlicpaste2/3cup(200ml)vegetablestock6½tbsp(40g)choppedspringonion1/3cup(20g)choppedmint8tsp(40ml)oliveoilSaltandpeppertotaste

ForthesalsadesecoKidbonesandneck6tbsp(60g)dicedredonion2tbsp(30g)roastedgarlicpaste2tbsp(30g)ajímirasolpaste2tbsp(30g)ajíamarillopaste4tbsp(40g)gratedlochesquash½cup(30g)cilantroputthroughblender2/3cup(200ml)chichadejora2cupsstock2/3cup(40g)choppedcilantro4tbsp(60ml)oliveoilSaltandpeppertotasteGroundcumin4tbsp(60ml)cilantroextract3tbsp(40g)butter1½oz(40g)watercresssalad

Forthecilantroextract50gfreshcilantro½cupwater

Preparation

TopreparethekidDebonethekidshoulders.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Setaside.

TopreparethestuffingCookthesweetbread,kidneysandliveronthegrilluntilthey are golden on the outside and pink on the inside. Finely chop the liver,kidney and sweetbread. Season with salt and pepper then mix well. Fill thedeboned shoulders with this stuffing. Roll and tie with string to secure thefilling,thensetaside.

Place the stuffed shoulders in a saucepan and add the kid stock and thechichadejora.Seasonwithsalt.Addthechopstothepannexttotheshoulders.Add the garlic and the rosemary and cook over very low heat for 2 hours.Removefromheatandtransfer thestuffedshouldersandthechopstoaheatednon-stick fryingpan.Addadashofoliveoil andbrownonone side.Removefrom the fryingpanandcut theshoulders in two.Setasidehotalongwith thechops.

To prepare the confit potato cylindersUsing amold,make 8 potato cylinders(eachabout1½in(4cm)indiameter).Makeaholeinthemiddleusinganapplecorer.Seasonthecylinderswithsalt.Heattheoliveoilinasaucepanandcookthepotato cylindersand thegarlicovera lowheatuntil thepotato is soft.Setasidehot.

To prepare the squash purée Place the cooked, riced squash in a saucepantogetherwiththebutteroverlowheatand,usingahandwhisk,whiskuntilthepuréeisverysmooth.Seasonwithsaltandsetaside.

TopreparethechirimpicoHeat theoliveoil inasaucepan.Addtheonion, thechoppedajíamarillo,theroastedgarlicpasteandtheajíamarillopaste.Brownfor2or3minutesovermediumheat.

Add the heart, lungs, liver and viscera. Season with salt, pepper, mint andchoppedcilantro.Addtheyuca,squash,thechichadejoraandthegibletstock.Letcookuntiltheyucaissoft,approximately10minutes.Checktheseasoning

oncemoreandcookforanother5minutes.Setasidehot.

To prepare the sangrecita Strain the kid blood, keeping the viscera for thechirimpico,thenscaldinboilingwaterfor5minutes.

Heat theoliveoil inasaucepan.Browntheonion, theajíamarilloandtheroastedgarlicpasteandcookfor5minutesovermediumheat.Addthechoppedblood and the vegetable stock. Let cook another 5minutes. Seasonwith salt,pepper,springonionandmint.Correctseasoningandsetasidehot.

TomakethecilantroextractPlace the cilantro and water in a blender and purée until you have a smoothliquid.Strainusingafinesieve.

TopreparethesecosauceHeattheoliveoilinasaucepanandaddthekidbonesandnecks.Brownwellallround.Removeandsetaside.

Inthesamesaucepan,addthedicedonion,theroastedgarlic,theajímirasolandajíamarillopastesandletbrownforafewminutes.Addthegratedsquash,theblendedcilantroandseasonwithsalt,pepperandgroundcumin.

Returnthebonestothesaucepan;pourinthechichadejora,thestockandthechoppedcilantro.Cookuntilthebonesfallapart.Strainthroughafine-meshstrainer intoa saucepan.Add to this thecilantroextract andemulsifywith thebutter.Checktheseasoning.Setasidehot.

ToserveServe the squash purée on a dinner plate, placing half a stuffed kid shoulderbeside it.Onone sideplace thebrownedchops, the cylinderofpotato stuffedwiththechirimpicoandsangrecita.Spreadthesecosauceallaroundandfinallyaddthewatercresssalad.

CALDODEGALLINA

Coque Ossio is Marisa Guiulfo’s son and another of Lima’s finest chefs.SchooledandtrainedintheU.S.andEurope,hehasbeenat theCenterof thePeruvianCuisine/fusion revolutions since itbeganoveradecadeago.HeandRafael Osterling –his sous-chef at that time– made of Ambrosia the toprestaurantinPeru.Inthisvolumeofthe“ArtofPeruvianCuisine”hegivesusmanyofthetraditionalrecipesthatweweren’tabletoincludeinBookI.HehasrestaurantsinandaroundLimaandinCusco.


1chicken–roaster,pulletorhen–cutinquarters1tbspfreshgingercutinsmallcubes

4yellowpotatoescutincubes1lb(500g)spaghetti1tbspwhitemiso½cupeggwhites,lightlywhisked2tbspsoysauce1cupspringonion,thegreenpartonly,chopped4soft-boiledeggs½tsp(3g)salt¼tsp(1g)pepper

Preparation

Washthehenquartersandplacein2litersofwateralongwiththeginger.Bringtoaboilandsimmeruntil theheniscooked.Addtheyellowpotatocubesandthe spaghetti together with the salt, pepper and white miso. Boil until thespaghettiiscookedaldente.Addthelightlywhiskedeggwhites,thesoysauceandhalfofthespringonion.Stir.Continueboilingforafewmomentsmoreandchecktheseasoningonceagain.

Serve thehenbroth inasoupplate.Remove theshellandplace thewholesoft-boiledegginthesoup.Sprinkletheremainingspringonionoverthesoup.

Tip:Asliceofrocotoandacoupleofspoonfullsofcanchaforaddedflavor.

CAMARONESCONSABORESDECHUPE

This is anotherDiegoMuñoz’s dishes. Copying a recipe very popular amongPeruvians, known as “chupe” or crayfish chowder, we take its elements andcreatethemanewinadifferentway,makinguseofallthepartsofthecrayfish.Thisrecipeisformoreexperiencedchefs.


20largecrayfish

11oz(300g)youngpeasintheshell1smallcobofcornPinchofsugarAfewaniseseedsSalt12youngsprigsofhuacatay4quaileggs1yellowpotatoMaras(rock)salttotaste

Coralcream1babyonion½cloveofgarlic3½tbsp(50g)heavycream1tsp(0.5g)Xanthangum¾tbsp(10g)unsaltedbutter

Ricewithcorn3½oz(100g)long-grainedrice2cups(½liter)ofsunfloweroilWaterthecornwascookedin

Crayfishheadsauce20crayfishheads½smallcarrot½redonion1sprigofhuacatay(Tagetesminuta)2clovesofgarlic¼leek,whitepartonly41/4tsp(20g)tomatopaste2tsp(10g)virginoliveoil2tsp(10g)heavycream

Milkskincannelloni1quart(1liter)freshwholecow’smilk7tbsp(100g)heavycream

Friedcrayfishlegs4setsofcrayfishlegswithpartofthestomach7/8cup(100g)plainflour

Preparation

Cleanthe20crayfishtails,usingabambooskewertoremovetheintestinealongthe back.Remove the claws very carefully from the rawcrayfish, leaving thecartilageonthecarcass.Separate4setsoflegswiththemeatfromthestomach,removing the digestive filters, and dry themwell. Remove the coral from theheads,andthestomachsac;discardthesac.Reservethetails,claws,and4setsoflegsinacoldplace,aswellasthecleanheadsforthesauce,andthecoralsforthecoralcream.

TomakethecoralcreamFinelyslicetheonionandgarlic,sweatinbutter,addthe corals and sauté them, moisten with the cream, and heat. Blend with aturmix,addtheXanthan,andstrain.Reserveatroomtemperatureuntilreadytoserve.

Shell thepeas,cookinboilingsaltedwaterfor40seconds,coolquickly inicewater;oncetheyarecold,sliptheskinoff,leavingthepeasintact.

Removethegrainsofcornfromthecobwithasmallknife,takingcarenottobreak thegrains.Cook inwaterwith salt, anise seedsandapinchof sugar,aswellasthestrippedcorncob.Reservethewaterthecornwascookedin.Removetheskinfromthegrainsofcorn;reservethecorngrainsinalittleofthecookingwater.

Bringtoaboilthestrainedwaterinwhichthecornwascooked,withsalttotaste. Boil the rice until it bursts, stirring gently occasionally to make sure itcooksevenly.Strainandspreadonatrayoverasilpatsheetsothatthericewilllosewater.Dryfor10hoursatroomtemperature.Heattheoilto375ºF(190˚C),frythericeinbatches,drain,anddryonpapertowel.

Inasaucepan,sweat thevegetablescut inbrunoise inoliveoil, thensweat

the tomatopaste,addthecrayfishheadsandsauté them,cover themwithcoldwater,addtheclovesofgarlicandsprigofhuacatay.Cookfor40minutes.

Removethebrothandcrushthecrayfishheadswithalittleofthehotbroth.Reduceuntilyouhaveabrothwithanintensecrayfishflavor;tofinish,addtheheavycream.

Heat themilk inasaucepan.Carefullyremovetheskinfromthemilkas itforms,foldedintwo;placeitonclingfilmbrushedwithheavycream;wraptheskinintheshapeofacannelloneandclosewiththefilm.Reservecold.

Diptheshrimplegsinflourandfryuntilgoldenbrowninoilheatedto320ºF(160˚C),reservethemhot.Sprinklewithsalttotaste.

Refreshthehuacataysprigsinicewater.Poachthequaileggs.Cuttheyellowpotatoin½cmcubesandblanchthemoncefromcoldwater,

drythemandfryinhotoil.

FinishingandpresentationSearthecrayfishtailsandclawsonthegriddlewithvirginoliveoil,andfinishtheminaslowoven.

Spreadthecrayfishcoralcreamonaplate,usingasmallspatula,andonthiscreamplace1milkskincannellone.

Arrange 5crayfish tails and the claws on the plate, and season themwithcoarseMarassalt(substitute:rocksalt).

Heat thepeasand thecorn inanemulsionofcrayfishbrothwithhuacatayandbutter,anddistributethemontheplate;addthefriedyellowpotatocubes.

Coverwithalittlefriedrice.Place a little saucebeside eachcrayfish tail, at oneendplace thepoached

quaileggandattheotherendthefriedcrayfishlegs.Garnishwith3youngsprigsofhuacatay.

TIP: Serve with spoon and fork. Eat the crayfish tails accompanied by thegarnishandalittleofthecream.

CANILLADECORDEROCOCIDAABAJATEMPERATURACON

CARAPULCRAAMANERADERISOTTO

ThisrecipeisoneofRafaelPiqueras’.HeisoneofPeru’sfinestyoungtalents.Hehasjustopenedwhathas,inasinglemonth,becomearguablyoneofPeru’sbest restaurants – MARAS at the brand-new Westin Hotel in Lima. Thisrestaurantisamustforanyvisitortothecity.


Fortheshanksoflamb5lambshanks1bottleofCabernetSirah1redonioncutinmedium-sizedcubes3celerystalkscutinmedium-sizedcubes2carrotscutincubes4cups(1liter)ofchickenstock1bouquetofmintandrosemary7oz(100g)mushroomsSaltandpeppertotasteOliveoil

Forthecarapulcra1lb(500g)papaseca(potatoesthathavebeencooked,dried,andbroken

intopieces)1oz(30g)Spanishchorizo1cupdicedredonion250mlchickenstock1tsp(5g)mincedgarlic4tsp(20ml)oliveoilSprigsofgreenleaves

3.5oz(100g)gratedParmesancheeseMincedparsleySaltandpeppertotaste

Preparation

ForthecarapulcraSautéthepapasecathenleavetosoakovernight.

ForthelambshanksSeasonthelambshankswithsaltandpepperandbrownonallsidesinalargefryingpanwitholiveoil.Setasideinacontainer.Removetheoilfromthefryingpanandwipecleanwithpaperkitchentowel.Usingthispan,sauté the vegetables and themushrooms until they are golden. Add the lambshanks and pour some wine over the lamb and boil for one minute. Add thechickenstockandthebouquetofherbs.Coverandplaceintheovenheatedtoalowtemperatureofabout320ºF(160ºC)for2hoursoruntiltheyareverytender.Onceready,removefromtheovenandstrainthecookingjuices;addtherestofthebottleofwinetothejuicesandreducebyhalftomakethesauce.

For the carapulcra Place thepapa secawhichhas soakedovernight into coldwaterandbringtoaboil.Simmeruntilitisaldente.

Heat theoliveoil ina saucepanover lowheatandproceed to sweat (cookvery slowly until the onion is transparent) the onions and the garlic. Cut the

chorizo into smallpieces thenadd to theonionsand leave tocookovera lowheatuntilthecoloroftheseasoningbeginstochange.Addboilingchickenstockand thepreviouslypreparedpapa seca andcookoveramediumheatuntil theflavorshavemergedandthepapasecaiscooked.

To serve Place a portion of carapulcra in the middle of a dinner plate andcarefullyplacealambshankinthemiddlewiththemeatsidedownandthebonepointing upwards. Use the sauce to decorate. Finally, sprinkle with parmesancheeseandmincedparsley.Decoratewiththesprigsofgreenleaves.

Tip:Depending upon the quality of the chorizo, youmaywish to reduce thequantityusedsotheflavorwillnotoverpowertheflavorofthelamb.

CARRILLERADETERNERAESTOFADAUNANOCHE



6vealcheeks(weighingapprox.10oz(280g)each)1bottleofredwine1headofcelery1leek12/3cups(250g)carrots

2tbsp(30g)garlic1pound(500g)redonion

Topreparethethickeningsauce11/3cups(200g)whiteonion31/3tbsp(50ml)oliveoil31/3tbsp(50g)garlicpurée5/8cup(150g)ajíamarillopaste62/3tbsp(100g)ajímirasolpaste¼lochesquash,grated(substitutewith½butternutsquash)About15to20sprigsofcilantro,blended4cobsoftendercorn,shelledandblended

TodecorateAfewfriedcilantroleavesAfewnasturtiumpetals

Preparation

Cleanthevealcheeksremovingallthenervesandfat.Chopthevegetablesandthenleavethemandthecheekstomarinateintheredwinefor12hours.Removethe cheeks from the liquid and seal them in a frying pan.Repeat this processwith thevegetablesand thenputall the ingredients togetheragainandsimmerforapproximately3hoursoruntil themeat is tender.Removethemeat.Strainandreducethesauce.

Tomake the thickeningsauceShellorcut the freshcornfromthecobs,put inblender.

Make thebase seasoningwitholiveoil andonion.Cookuntil theonion istransparent.Addthegarlicpurée,togetherwiththeajímirasolandajíamarillopastes and continue to cook for a few more minutes. Add the grated squashfollowed by the blended cilantro and corn and cook over low heat, stirring toavoidburning.

ToservePaintarectangleofthickeningsauceinthecenterofalargeplate.Cuteach veal cheek in half and set the halves asymmetrically on the thickeningsauce,pouringthereducedwinesauceoverthemeat.Decoratewithkernelsofcorn,afriedsprigortwoofcilantroandafewnasturtiumpetals.

CHITAESCAMOSAENJARDÍNDECHOCLOYJUGODEPORCÓN

Ivan Kisic tells us, “the idea from which this recipe originated was the playbetween land and sea. A far-off land where you can find porcón mushroomaromasmixed with cheese, lettuce, vegetables, etc., with all the nuances of akitchen garden. The technique used in preparing the fish is in fact one thatcomes from Japan but that can be adapted to a fish like the Peruvian Gruntwhichallowsyoutoobtainthepropercrispnessofthefinescales.”


1PeruvianGrunt,about1¾lb(800g)1¼cup(300ml)vegetableoil1¾cup(300ml)oliveoilRocksalttotaste

Thefreshcornpurée

10tendercobsoffreshcorn1cup+3tbsp(180g)whiteonion3oz(80g)Pariacheese½cup(50g)leek,thegreenpart2clovesofgarlic1½tbsp(20g)butter8½cups(2liters)freshwholemilk

ThePorcónmushroomsauce4tsp(20ml)oliveoil2sprigsofthyme3blackpeppercorns1cloveofgarlic2shallots4½oz(130g)freshPorcónmushrooms2driedPorcónmushrooms7tbsp(100ml)whitewine1literdarkmeatstock

Thekitchengardenaromas3springonions3sprigsoffreshmintSlicesofPorcónmushroomPaico(Chenopodiumambrosioides)flowersFennelflowersRoastedcherrytomatoesOrganiclettuce3dropsofspicyoil

Preparation

TopreparethefishFilletthefishthenmassageinordertoloosenthescales(butdonot remove them).Put in the refrigerator.Mix the vegetable andolive oilsandsetaside.

TopreparethefreshcornpuréeSeparatethekernelsfromthecobandcookovera lowheat in a saucepan togetherwith all theother ingredients except for thebutterforabout5to10minutes.BlendinaThermomix(kitchenrobot)andaddthebutter.Seasonandstrain.Placeinasiphonandsetasideindoubleboiler.

To prepare the Porcónmushroom sauce Cut the freshPorcónmushrooms inlarge slices.Hydrate the2driedmushroomsand set aside thiswater, slice themushrooms. In a frying pan, sauté all of the slicedmushrooms until they aregolden brown then remove. In the same pan, fry the shallots in the olive oiltogetherwiththethyme,blackpepperandwholegarliccloves.Oncetheshallotsaresoft, return themushrooms to the fryingpanandpour thewhitewineoverthemixture.Leavetocookovermediumheatuntilthewineevaporates.Addthewater used to rehydrate themushrooms.Reduce over low heat. Strain and setaside.

To prepare the kitchen garden aromasCut the cherry tomatoes in half, add alittle olive oil, pinch of salt, pepper and thyme and roast in an oven at 200ºF(90ºC) for 45minutes. Gently cut the remaining ingredients and set aside for

serving.

ToserveHeattheoilto375ºF(190ºC)andcarefullypourthehotoiloverthefishfillets until the scales are crispy and golden. Place the sweet corn foam in abowl,stirandservelikeacarpetontheplate.Arrangethekitchengardenaromascarefullyonebyone.Painttheplatewiththemushroomsauceandplacethefishontop.Useafewdropsofthespicyoilfordecoration.

COCHINILLOCONNARANJITASCHINAS



Forthesucklingpig1sucklingpig,approx.3kg,cleaned1lb(500g)porkfat(lard)4½tbsp(40g)garlic11tbsp(200g)salt1ltwater

Forthekumquatsauce7oz(200g)kumquats½cup(100g)whitesugar1cupwater1stickofcinnamon

1cup(250ml)panjuices4tbsp(60g)ajíamarillopaste1oz(30g)butterSaltandpeppertotaste

Fortheescabeche(spicycookedonionsauce)3tbspvegetableoil2tspcrushedgarlic1redonioncutinlargejulienne1ajíamarillocutinlargejulienne2tspgroundajípanca2tbspredwinevinegar2bayleavesSalt,pepperandoreganototaste

Forthetacutacu51/3tbsp(80g)ajíamarillopaste14oz(400g)cooked,blendedblack(turtle)beans31/3cups(400g)cookedrice5½tbsp(80ml)oliveoil7/8cup(200ml)vegetablestock11/3cups(300g)escabeche(recipeabove),savingalittleforgarnishSaltandpeppertotaste

8friedladyfingerbananas(smallsweetbananas)4freerangeeggs,fried

AlittleoftheescabecheFreshherbs

Preparation

TopreparethesucklingpigThedaybefore,debonethesucklingpig,separatingthelegsandtheshoulderblades.Leaveinbrine(saltandwater)twohoursintherefrigerator.

Cutupthebonesinordertousethemformakingthepanjuices.Wash thepiecesofmeatwell in thebrine and set aside.Heat thepork fat

(lard)inapotandaddthepiecesofporkalongwiththegarlic.Overaverylowheat,cookuntil thesucklingpig isverytender.Removefromthefatandcookthepiecesofporkonthegrillfatsidedownuntil theskinisgoldenandcrispyandthemeatisjuicy.Setasidehot.

Toprepare theKumquat (Fortunellamargarita) sauce In a saucepan,bring totheboilandcookthekumquatswiththesugar,waterandcinnamon.Cookoverlowheatuntilthemixturereachestheconsistencyofthicksyrup.Removefromheatandsetasidetocool.

Inafryingpan,bringthepanjuicestoaboilandaddtheajíamarillopaste.Add the kumquats in syrup and bind with butter then season with salt andpepper.Setasidehot.

Toprepare theescabecheOvermediumheat,heat theoil ina fryingpan thenadd the garlic and onion and cook until the onion is transparent. Add the ajíamarillo, the ají panca, the vinegar and the bay leaves and cook. Add salt,pepperandoreganototaste.Setasidehot.

TopreparethetacutacuHeat theoil inafryingpanthenaddtheajíamarillopaste. Let brown over low heat for a few minutes. Incorporate the blended(puréed)blackbeans, theescabecheand the rice.Seasonwith salt andpepper.Mixwith awooden spoonuntil the rice and thebeans arewellmixed.Browneachportionseparatelyinafryingpanuntilitiscrispontheoutsideandcreamyontheinside.Setasidehot.

ToserveServe the tacu tacu on a dinner plate. Place the fried banana on top of thisfollowed by the fried egg and some of the escabeche Next to this place theportionof sucklingpiganddrizzle thekumquat saucearound the sucklingpigandtacutacu.Decoratewithfreshherbs.

CORVINAENCOSTRADEQUINUAROJA

Restaurant La Huaca’s executive chef Marilú Madueño tells us, “TheinspirationforthisdishoccurredtomewhileonatripwhenIatefishpreparedinacrunchycrust. I loved it. Ihavealsoalways lovedworkingwithquinua. Ifirsttriedmakingitwiththetraditionalpearlquinuabutthendecidedtochangeit to red quinua as this was even crunchier. The accompaniment is theextraordinary green asparagus and artichoke found locally in Peru. On firstsight, thisdishdoesnotappear tobeaPeruviandishbutwhatcouldbemorePeruvianthantheingredientsituses?”


4filletsofseabass4artichokehearts16asparagustips½cup(120g)balsamicreduction3tbsp(80g)butterOliveoil7/8cup(100g)plainflour1egg1cup(200g)redquinua,cookedaldenteMicromixParsley

Balsamicreduction1cup(250ml)balsamicvinegar½cup(125ml)redwine½cup(100g)whitesugarSalttotaste1tbsp(15g)butter

Preparation

Remove the skin from the fish and seasonwith salt and pepper.Dip the sidewhere the skin was in flour, then in beaten egg, and finally in the cookedquinua. In a frying pan with the butter and olive oil fry the sea bass on thecoated side until golden. Turn over and place on a baking sheet. Bake inmoderateovenfor6-8minutesuntilthefishiscookedbutstillveryjuicyinthecenter.

For the garnish, blanch the artichoke hearts and asparagus tips in boilingwater, cutup, then sauté them in a fryingpanwithbutter andparsley.Seasonwithsaltandblackpepper.

Tomake thebalsamicreductionPut thebalsamicvinegar, redwine,sugarandsalt in a saucepan. Cook over medium heat until reduced to one third of itsoriginal volume. This should acquire a honey-like consistency.Once reduced,addthebuttertomakethesauceshine.

ToserveServethegarnishinthecenterofadinnerplateandplacetheseabasson top with the crust facing upwards. Place a generous quantity of balsamicreductionaroundthefish.Decoratewithmicromix.

CORVINAKAPALLAQ

LuisEnriqueCordero,isanotablefisherman,philosopher,chefandfriend.HisaresomeofthemostfundamentalseafooddishesinPeru.Sittingattableinhisrestaurant,Kapallaq,transportsyouimmediatelytotheseaside.


FortheKapallaqsauce2lb(1kg)ajíamarillo½stalkofcelery1cloveofgarlic11/2cupsextravirginoliveoil

Forthecorvina11/2lbs(720g)corvinaorPacificseabass(orotherfirm,white-fleshed

fillets)6tbspKapallaqsauce8or9Huamantangacreamywhitepotatoes12tbspextravirginoliveoil4tspthymeordill14oz(400g)deveinedshrimpSalttotaste

4tspfinelymincedparsley

Preparation

TopreparethesauceRemovetheveinsandseedsfromtheajíesandsoakthemovernight in salted water. The following day, strain off the excess water andcookonagriddle (donot remove theskin)until theyarenicelygolden.Puréethisajíinablenderwiththeceleryandthegarlic,thenstrain.Use1½cupsofextravirginoliveoiltoemulsify.

TopreparethefishandshrimpCookthefishonagrillorfryingpanwithveryhotoil.

Cook the shrimp on the grill or frying pan with 6 tbsp olive oil and 2tablespoonsofthepreparedKapallaqsauce.

TopreparethepotatopuréeBoilthepotatoesandthenmash.Usingafork,mixinthesalt,thymeordillandtherestoftheoliveoilandkeepmixinguntilyouhaveaverysmooth,moldablepurée.Toserve,placethefishfilletinthecenterofadinnerplateandpoursomesauceandshrimpoverit.Accompanywiththepotatopuréeanddecoratetheplatewithfinelydicedparsley.

Tip:Theoriginalrecipeusesthymeinthepotatopuréebutifthisistoostronga

flavor,youcanusedillinstead.

COSTILLARDECABRITODELECHEYPURÉDELOCHE

ThisisanotherdishfromHéctorSolis,chefandowneroftheFiestarestaurant.HeisoneofthemainstandardbearersofNorthernCuisineinLima.

Ingredient(Serves4)

1¾lbs(800g)milk-fedkidgoatribs12clovesofgarlic,mincedSaltandpepper4cups(1liter)redwineDropsofachiote(annatto)oil

Forthegarnish1zapalloloche(substitutewithbutternutsquash)weighingapprox.¾lb

(350g)6¾tbsp(100ml)evaporatedmilk2tbsp(30ml)oliveoilSaltandpeppertotasteSprigsofdillandrosemaryfordecoration

Preparation

Cut the ribs in24piecesandseasonwith salt,pepper,mincedgarlic,dropsofachioteoilandfinallytheredwine.Placetheminaceramicorglassdishandletmarinatepreferablyovernightintherefrigerator.

Heat oven to 350ºF (180ºC) and cook the ribs for approximately 30 to 35minutes.Whentheribsaregoldenandtender,removefromtheovenandserveonabedoflocheorbutternutsquashpurée.

To prepare the loche purée Wash the loche or butternut squash in plenty ofwater,peelandcutitintolargecubes.Cookinasaucepaninboilingwaterfor20to25minutes.Oncetender,strainandblend,addingtheevaporatedmilk,oliveoilandsalt.

ToserveServe the ribsonabedof lochepuréeanduse the sprigsofdill androsemarytodecorate.

CUYCROCANTECONTAMALITOSDEGARBANZO



4largeguineapigsweighingapprox.2lbs(900g)each2¾tbsp(20g)rocksalt1literduckfat

4clovesofgarlic,inthinslices

Forthetamalitos18oz(500g)driedchickpeas14oz(400g)whiteonion31/3tbsp(50g)garlicpaste62/3tbsp(100g)ajíamarillopaste2/3lb(300g)Amazonsausage7oz(200g)vegetableshortening24cornhusksplushusksforthebottomofthepotStringOregano7/8cup(200ml)chickenstockSaltandpeppertotaste

Forthecookingsauce2pounds(1kg)ofguineapigbones2cups(300g)carrot2cups(300g)redonion1sprigofrosemary

Forthetamarindjuice2tsp(10g)tamarindpulp2tsp(10ml)water

Forthesalsacriolla2/3cup(100g)redonion½ajíamarillo½oztamarindjuiceDropsofkeylimejuiceSaltandpeppertotaste

Preparation

To make the tamal mixture Soak the chickpeas overnight before peeling andcoarselyblendingthemraw(butnotpuréeing).Makeaseparateseasoningusingthewhiteonion,garlicandajíamarillopaste.Addtheblendedchickpeasalongwith the previously fried chorizo and cook for 5 minutes with the vegetableshorteningandchickenstock.Thenaddtheoregano,saltandpeppertotaste.

TomakethetamalitosSoften the cornhusksbypouringboilingwaterover them.Drain thehusksofanyexcesswater.Place2husksintheformofacrossandthenput2spoonfulsof the tamalmixture in thecenterandfoldeachhusk fromtheend toward thecenterwhere theywill overlap; tiewith string.Cover the bottomof a pot bigenough tohold the tamaleswithabedofcornhusksand justenoughwater tocover thehusks;when it begins to boil, put in the tamales.Cover thepot andsteamthetamalesfor20minutes.

For the cooking sauceBrown thebones in theoven.Chop thevegetables andthenlightlyfrytheminasaucepanwithalittleoil.Addthebrownedbonesandboil theminenoughwater for the liquid to reduceandconcentrate theflavors.Strain the liquid and then continue to boil until the desired concentration isreached.

For the tamarind juice Heat the water and dissolve the tamarind pulp in thewater.

For the salsa criolla Finely chop the red onion and theají amarillo thenmixwithsomedropsofkeylimejuiceandthetamarindjuice.Addsaltandpeppertotaste.

TopreparetheguineapigsCuttheguineapigsintoquartersandletthepiecessitwiththerocksaltsprinkledonthemfor1hour.Thenremovethesaltandarrangethepiecesinapotwiththeduckfatandslicedgarlictocover.Cookina176ºF(80ºC)ovenfor2hours.

ToserveSeal thepiecesofguineapig so the skin iscrunchybutcanstillbecut.Serveaccompanied by the tamalitos (unwrap and discard husks) and the cookingsauce.Finally,garnishtheservingofguineapigwiththesalsacriolla.

FETTUCCINIALAHUANCAÍNACONLOMOYSUJUGUITO

JanaEscuderoisayoungchefwhobeganmakingsandwichesinastorelocatedinhergrandfather’sgasstation.Aftertwelveyears,shenowrunstherestaurantElGrifo,acheerfulrestaurant that’salwayspackedwithhappydiners.This isoneofhermostoutstandingdishes.


Huancaínasauce

Forthesautéedtenderloinjuice¼cupofredvinegar2tbspofPiscoorbrandy¼cupofsoysauce

1redonion,cutinjulienne2tomatoescutinjulienneOregano2lbs(1kg)ofbeeftenderloincutincubesSaltandpeppertotasteWhitesugar4tbspvegetableoil1tspparsley,finelyminced

2lbs(1kg)ofhandmadefettucciniOliveoil½cupoffreshcream114-ozcanofevaporatedmilkRocksaltFreshlygratedParmesancheese

Preparation

Topreparethehuancaínasauce,seelink.

TomakethesautéedtenderloinPut2tbspofvegetableoilinawokandwhenitishotaddthecubesoftenderloinbeef.Stirfryandthensetaside.

Inthesamewok,addtheonionwithapinchofsugar,saltandpepper.Whenthesugarisalmostgoldenaddthevinegarandcookfor3minutesbeforeaddingpartofthesoysauce.Stirwellandputinabowlalongwiththebeef.

Inthesamepan,addtheremaining2tbspofvegetableoil;whenhot,addthetomato,withalittlesugar, thenaddthePiscoorbrandyandflambé.Tofinish,addtherestofthesoysauce,salt,oreganoandateaspoonofmincedparsley.Stirwellandsetaside.

Toprepare the fettucciniCook the fettuccini in boilingwater until they are aldente.Strainandaddagenerousdrizzleofoliveoil.

Place3ladles(about1½-2cups)ofthehuancaínasauce,thefreshcreamandalittleevaporatedmilkinawok.Addthefettucciniandstirwell.Checkforsalt.

ToservePlacealittleofthesautéedtenderloinjuiceinabowlfollowedbythefettuccini on top of that. Top off with some of the beef and finally someparmesancheese.

Tip:Useagenerousamountofhuancaínasauceas thefettuccininoodleswillabsorbalotofthesauce.

Foramilderflavoredsauce,tryusingthefreshwhitecheeseproducedbyacommercialdairyfromthesupermarketratherthanartisanallyproducedcheesesfromanopen-airormunicipalmarket.Inthisrecipeonecansubstitutericottaiffarmer’scheeseisnotavailable.

GNOCCHIDEPAPAAMARILLACONCAUCHEDEQUESOY

CAMARONES

Thisdishwastheproductofaco-creationwithagirlcalledChiniwhousedtoworkwithMarilúMadueño.MarilúwasveryinterestedingettingtoknowdishesfromArequipaandChinipreparedacheesecaucheforher.Marilúdecidedtomake some gnocchi using yellow potatoes instead of the traditional whitepotatoes,andtoaddcrayfishtothecauchetogivethedishmoreofafestivefeel.


2lbs(1kg)ofyellowpotatoes1egg1eggyolk1¾cups(200g)plainflourSaltandpeppertoflavorAlittlefinelychoppedhuacatay14oz.(400g)ofcrayfishtails,peeled,cleaned7tbsp(100ml)freshcream2tbspcrayfishcoralbutter

Thecauche2redonionsslicedlengthwise2sprigsofhuacatay2tbspbutter1tbspvegetableoil1cupevaporatedmilk1cupfreshcream3tomatoes,peeled,seededandcutinjulienne.½lb(250g)freshcheese(suchasfreshPariacheese)orfarmercheeseSugar,saltandpeppertotaste

Preparation

TomakethegnocchiBakethewashedpotatoes(stillwiththeirskinson,prickedwitha fork) in theovenwithapanofwater tocreatesteam,at350ºF(180ºC)until they arewell cooked. It is better to cook thepotatoes in the oven ratherthanboilthemastheyabsorblessmoisture.Whencooked,peelandriceormashwhilestillhotsoastoavoidlumps.Putinabowlwiththesalt,pepper,eggandeggyolk,mixwellandfinallyincorporatetheflourandthechoppedherb.Kneadthedoughuntilyouobtainahomogenousconsistency.

Make a long roll about ¾ in (2 cm) thick, cut the dough into thumb-sizepieces,weighingapproximately¾oz(20g)andshapewithafork.

Cookingentlyboilingwaterwithsaltandalittleoil.Thegnocchiarereadywhentheybegintofloat.Removefromthewaterwithaslottedspoonandplaceinabowl.Sprinklewithoiltoavoidtheirstickingtogether.

TomakethecaucheInafryingpanovermediumheatmeltthebutterwiththeoilandcook theonionsand sprigsofhuacatay.When theonionsare soft add themilkandleavetoboilthenaddthetomatoesandthecheese.Lastly,addthefreshcream and the gnocchi that you set aside. Leave the sauce to reduce until thecheesebeginstomeltandalltheflavorscombine.Seasonwithsalt,pepperandsugar.

Sauté the crayfish in a drizzle of oil then add the fresh cream and finallyemulsifywith thecrayfish coralbutter.Donotoverheat inorder to avoid thebutterseparating.

ToserveServethegnocchiinabowlwiththesauce.Placethesautéedcrayfishontop.Decoratewithparmesancheesecurlsorcrisppotatochips.

INCHICAPIDEPAICHE

PedroMiguel Schiaffino is an intense and notable student and practitioner ofPeruvian fusion. His recipes, showcased at hisMalabar –one of Lima’smostimportantrestaurants,areoftenorientedtowardtheAmazonandthefoodsandingredientsofthePeruvianJungle.


11/3lb(600g)freshpaichefillet(orotherwhite-fleshedfish)

Forthestock8cupsconcentratedchickenstock6oz(150g)beefjerky2tsp(10g)mincedsachaculantro3tbsp(40g)groundpeanuts2charapitaajíes,crushed

Forthetapioca½cup(80g)largepearltapioca4tsp(20g)oliveoil2tsp(10g)freshturmeric1tsp(5g)finelymincedgarlic1cupfishstockJuiceof½keylimeSaltFreshsprigsofedibleflowersandleaves

Preparation

TomakethestockPlacethejerkyintheovenorunderasalamanderandlightlybrown.Next,place thechickenstock inasaucepanandbring toaboil.Lowerthe heat and add the jerky and then cook slowly for 30minutes. Remove thejerky and add the ground peanuts.Cook for an additional 5minutes and thenpass through a fine-meshed strainer. Check seasoning. Add the mincedsachaculantroandthecrushedajícharapita.

TopreparethetapiocaParboilthetapiocainplentyofboilingwater,changingthe water three times. Strain the tapioca andwash it in cold water. Place theoliveoil ina saucepanand fry the turmericandgarlic.Add the fishstockandcookfor10minutes.Seasonwithsalt.Addthetapiocaandcookuntilthestockhastotallyevaporated.Addthekeylimejuice.

ToserveGrill thepaicheuntil tenderandserve inasoupbowlwith thestock.Place the tapioca on top of the paiche and finish by decoratingwith sprigs ofedibleflowersandleaves.

JUANEDEPATO

The juane is fromtheAmazonianrainforestarea,asortof tamalmadeofriceandusuallysomesortoffowl.Thereisalotofregionalvariation,butbasicallyitisaroundballofricecookedinbrothandspices,withaportionofchickenorother fowl, and sometimes other ingredients according to local customs, andwrappedinbijao(Calathealutea)leavesorbananaleavesandtiedwithcottonstringandsteamedorboiled inabigpot.Thoughnoweatenyear-round, theyweretraditionallyeatenonSt.John’sday,June24th,forwhichtheyarenamed.TheyaresaidtorepresenttheheadofSt.JohntheBaptist.


8piecesofbijaoorbananaleaves(forwrappingthejuane)1egg,beaten2½cups(400g)miyakorice4ducklegs2tbsp(30ml)oliveoil11/3cups(200g)onion,finelychopped2tbsp(20g)garlic,minced7oz(100g)ajídulce,peeled,seededandminced2tsp(20g)groundcumin4tsp(20g)freshturmeric,grated5/8cup(40g)sachaculantro,blended2ajícharapita21/3cups(600g)duckstockSaltandpeppertotaste

Preparation

TopreparetheduckCooktheonion,garlic,freshturmeric,ajídulceandcuminintheoliveoilslowlyoverlowheatuntiltheonioncaramelizes.Addtheducklegsandcookskinsidedownuntiltheyaregolden.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Add theduck stockand theblendedsachaculantro.Bring toaboil, lower theheat and then cook very slowly until the duck legs are tender. Remove fromfryingpanandcarefullydebone.

TocookthericeFirstremovethefatfromthebrothinwhichtheduckhasbeencooked. Check theweight. It shouldweigh 30%more than the rice,which isabout520mlofbrothforthe400gofrice,or2cupsplus4tspofbrothto2½cups of rice. Place the liquid in a saucepan, correct seasoning, and bring to aboil.Addtherice,returntoboil,thenreducetheheattolowestsetting,coverandcook.Whencooked,placeinabowlandallowtocool.Addthebeatenegg.Mixwellanddivideintofourequalparts,formingeachintoaball.

TopreparethejuanesThebijaoorbananaleaveshaveusuallybeencutinhalflongitudinallyandintopiecesabout10in(25cm)long.Tomaketheleavesmorepliableputtheminaheatedfryingpanforafewsecondsoneachside.Orpasstheleavesthroughwarmwater.Makeacrossof2leaves,placetheballofonequarterofthecookedricemixtureinthecenterofthecross,placingadebonedducklegontop.Carefullywrapthejuane,overlappingthesidesandtwistingtheleaves of the 4 sides together on top and tying with cotton string. Wrap theremainingricemixtureanddebonedduck legs in thismanner.Steamthemfor15minutes.Letthejuanescoolbeforeserving.

Tip:Itiseasyforthisdishtobecometoosaltysotakecarenottooverseasontheduckortherice.

LASAÑADELOMOSALTADO

ThisrecipewascreatedespeciallyforMistura2010byÁlvaroRaffo.Misturaisanannual6-dayculinaryfairheldinLima.Thisdishendedupwinningtheprizefor the best dish presented at the fair.Eight hundred portionswere prepared,whichweresupposedtolastthedurationofthefair;buttheylastedonlyoneandahalfdays!


10wontonwrappers4oz(120g)mozzarellacheese2oz(60g)Parmesancheese,grated¼cup(60g)ajíamarillopaste2cups(500g)whitesauce

1/2cup(125g)huancaínasauce1pound(500g)sautéedbeef

Forthesautéedbeef½pound(200g)bestbeeftenderloin1cup(270g)redonion,minced1cup(150g)tomatoespeeled,seeded,chopped2tbsp(25g)ajíamarillo1tbsp(15g)cilantro,chopped2tbsp(30ml)vegetableoil1tbsp(15ml)redvinegar1tbsp(15ml)soysauceSalttotasteBeefbroth

FortheHuancaínasauce,seelink.

Preparation

Prepareathickwhitesauce.GratethemozzarellaandtheParmesancheeses.

For the sautéed beef Cut the meat into 1/2 in (1 cm) cubes along with thetomato,theajíamarillo,theonionandthecilantro.

Overahigh flame,heat theoiluntil itbegins tosmoke.Add themeatandsautéwell for3minutes.Setaside. In thesamefryingpansauté theonion,ajíamarilloandthetomato.Pourthevinegarandthesoysauceovertheingredientsandaddsaltandpeppertotaste.Addthechoppedcilantroand2tablespoonsofbeefbrothorwater.Mixtogethertoblendtheflavors.Setaside.

Forthehuancaínasauce:seesalsaalaHuancaína

PreparationbeforecookingInabowl,mixhalfofthewhitesauce(1cup)with

thesautéedbeefmixtureuntilwellmixed.Inanotherbowl,mixtheremainderofthewhite saucewith thehuancaína sauce and theají amarillo paste.Correctseasoning.

Ina9in(23cm)squareovenproofglassdish,placesomeofthehuancaínasauce in thebottom.Cover thissaucewithwontonwrappersandthenmoreofthehuancaínamixtureontopjustenoughtocoverthewrappers.Ontopofthissecondlayer,placeaboutacup(200g)ofthelomosaltado-whitesaucemixture,addinghalfof themozzarellacheeseon topof that.Coveroncemorewith thewonton wrappers. Repeat the process until the dish is full, finishing with theParmesancheeseontop.

Cookin350ºF(180ºC)ovenfor35minutesuntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandletcoolfor10minutesbeforeserving.

LOMOSALTADODEPECHUGADEPATOCONTACUTACU

ThisisanotherdishfromHéctorSolis,chefandowneroftheFiestarestaurant.HeisoneofthemainstandardbearersofNorthernCuisineinLima.


FortheLomosaltadoofduckbreast7oz(200g)duckCairinamoschatabreast(tendernativeSouthAmerican

duck)

VegetableoilSaltandblackpeppertotaste½largeredonion½ripepomodorotomato1ajíamarillo,seared½ozredwinevinegar½ozsoysauce½cupdarkmeatstock

FortheTacutacu1cupofcookedwhiterice1cupofwhiteorblackbeans,wellcooked1tsp(5g)ajíamarillopaste1springonion(greenonionorscallion),finelychopped8dropsachioteoilSaltandblackpeppertotasteVegetableoil

Preparation

To prepare the lomo saltado Cut the duck breast in large cubes weighingapproximately1½oz(40g)each.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandsautétheminhotoilinawokorfryingpan.Setaside.

Cut theonion in thick lengthwise slices.Cut the tomato inquarters. In thesamefryingpanorwokasbefore,browntheonionsthensetaside.Alsointhesamepan,place the tomatowith¼cupofbeefbroth andcook for2minutes.Season with salt and pepper. Immediately afterwards, introduce the cubes ofduck breast and the onions adding the vinegar and the soy sauce. Cook for 2minutes,stirringcontinuallysothatalloftheingredientsarewellmixedandtheflavorsintegrated.

TopreparetheTacutacuPlace thecookedbeans ina largebowlwitha littlebeefbrothso that the tacutacu is not too dry.Add theají amarillo paste and the cooked rice.Mixwelluntil you have a uniform mixture. Add the finely chopped spring onion andseasonwiththesaltandpepper.Mixwell.

Inanon-stickfryingpanheattheoiloverhighheatandwhenitishot,addthetacutacumixturein(1cup)250gportions.Leavetobrownforabout2to3minutesstilloverhighheat,turningthemixtureoveruntilitiscompletelybrownandcrispyonbothsides.

ToserveServetheTacutacuonadinnerplateandthenplacethelomosaltadoon top, drizzling the sauce over all. Serve with a little finely chopped spring

onioncirclesontop.

MEROALCARBÓN



6groupersfilets(weighingapprox.7oz(190geach)Saltandpeppertotaste2/3lb(300g)hulledwheat1¾oz(50g)mushroomsfromPorcón,canbesubstitutedwithdried

porcinimushrooms2lbs(1kg)redonion4tsp(20g)ajípancapaste

2tsp(10g)garlicpaste3½tbsp(50g)tomatopuréeDriedoregano3½tbsp(50ml)vegetableoil5oz(150g)GranPadanoParmesancheese1¾oz(50g)butter

Forthecitrusfoam1orange5keylimes1lima(Citruslimetta)1bigteaspoon(2g)lecithin(checkmanufacturer’sinstructions)1ozLimoncelloliqueur

Preparation

Rehydrate the Porcón mushrooms in 2 liters of water; strain, reserving theliquid.Boilthehulledwheatandstrain,reservingthebroth.

Preparetheseasoningbasewithredonion,ajípancapaste,tomatopuréeandthedriedoregano,addingtherehydratedPorcónmushroomsandletcook.Thenaddtheboiledhulledwheat,and,alittleatatime,lettingtheliquidbeabsorbedeach time before addingmore, asmuch of themushroom liquid and/orwheatbrothyouneedtohavearisotto-likeconsistency,thenaddtheParmesancheeseandfinally,thebutter.

TopreparethefishCookthefishonacharcoalgrillfor5minutesoneachside.

TopreparethecitrusfoamSqueezeallthejuicefromthefruitsandmixwiththeLimoncello.Add2glecithin(makesurethemeasurementiscorrectaccordingtothebrandoflecithinbeingused)anduseaTurmixorblendertofillwithairtomakefoam.

ToserveInadeepsoupbowl,placethewheatandmushroompreparationononesideoftheplateandthefishbesidethewheat.UsetheLimoncellocitrusfoamtodecoratethefish.

Note:Theoriginal recipe calls for4 tsp (20g)ofají especialpastewhich is amixofajípancaandajímirasol.Weleavethisuptoyou.

PIERNADEPATOCROCANTE



Fortheduck4cleanducklegs1lb(500g)duckfat4clovesofgarlicSalttotaste

4bloodsausages

Fortheonionseasoning2tbspvegetableoil2tspcrushedgarlic1dicedredonionSaltandpeppertotaste

Forthestickyrice3½tbsp(50g)onionseasoning(recipeabove)2tsp(20g)roastedgarlicpaste4tbsp(60g)ajíamarillopaste1½oz(40g)gratedlochesquash¾cup(80g)cookedblack(turtle)beans¾cup(80g)cookedcaballero(white)beansAbout¼ofamediumredbellpepper(40g),cutinjulienneAbout¼ajíamarillo(30g)cutinjulienne12/3cups(300g)precookedarboriorice2tbsp(10g)choppedcilantro¼cup(60ml)beer12/3(400ml)concentratedduckstock1oz(30g)butter1/3cup(60ml)oliveoilSaltandpeppertotaste

Forthecriolloradishrelish3oz(80g)radishcutinjulienneAbout1/5averageonion(20g)cutinjulienne1/3oz(10g)ajílimocutinjulienne4sprigsofcilantroleaves1keylime4tsp(20ml)whitevinegarSaltandpeppertotaste

Preparation

TopreparetheduckPlaceducklegsinbrineovernight,intherefrigerator.Washwellbeforeusing.

Heat theduckfat inasaucepan thenadd theclovesofgarlicand theducklegs.Leavetocookoveraverylowheatfor1½hoursoruntiltheduckisvery

tender.Strainoff the fat.Heat anonstick fryingpanandwhenhot, brown theskinontheducklegsuntilitisverygolden.Setasidehot.

Cookthebloodsausagesonthegrillandsetasidehot.

TopreparetheonionseasoningHeatthevegetableoiloveramediumheatinafrying pan and,whenhot, add the garlic andonion.Cookuntil almost goldenthenaddsaltandpeppertotaste.

To prepare the sticky rice In a frying pan, heat half of the olive oil.Add theonionseasoningbase,thegarlicpaste,theajíamarillopaste,thepeppersandajíamarillocutinjulienneandthegratedloche(butternut)squash.Incorporatethericeandmixwell.Add thebeans.Pour thebeerand the stockoveronionandpeppersandcook,stirringconstantlywithawoodenspoon,untilthepreparationacquiresastickyconsistency.Incorporatethebutterandtheoliveoil,mixwellandsetasidehot.

Inanonstickfryingpan,place4tablespoonsofstickyriceandbrownuntilyouhaveagoldencrustontherice.Setaside.

TopreparethecriolloradishrelishPlacetheradishesinabowlalongwiththeonionandtheajíamarillo.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Addthejuiceofonekeylimeandthevinegar.Leaveforafewseconds.Addthecilantro leavesandsetaside.

ToserveInasoupplate,servethericeandplacealegofduckontopalongwithabloodsausage.Crownwiththecriolloradishrelishanddecoratewithasprigofcilantro.

PIGYTRUFA



Forthemustardpaint1½tbsp(55g)mayonnaise2tbsp(30g)meauxmustard,mustardwithseeds(MoutardedeMeaux

Pommery)

Forthepotatoes3nativeorlandracepotatoes(thesecanbeofanycolor)Scant1½cups(350ml)oliveoil1sprigofhuacatay(Tagetesminuta,wildmarigold)1tsp(5g)chincho(Tagetesmultiflora)1tsp(5g)muña(Minthostachysmollis,Andeanmint)1sprigofcilantro1tsp(5g)paico(Chenopodiumambosiodes)5wholeclovesofgarlic

ForthestuffingScantounce(25g)driedPorcónmushrooms1tbsp(15g)creamcheese1/3tsp(2g)finelymincedblacktruffle

Forthepork7oz(200g)thinlyslicedCulatellodiZibelloham(youcanuseeitherParma

orIbericohamasanalternative)

Forthesucklingpig1legofsucklingpigDuckfat

Preparation

TopreparethemustardpaintMixthemayonnaisewiththeMeauxmustard.

TopreparethepotatoesCutthepotatoesin¾in.(2cm)cubesandmakeaholeinthemiddleofthemsoastobeabletostuffthem.Slowlycookthepotatoesinhotoliveoilalongwithalloftheherbsandthewholegarlicforabout20minutesoruntiltheyaresoft.

TopreparethestuffingPlacethemushroomsinwarmwaterandleavethemtorehydrateforabout30minutes.Finelyremovefromwater,minceandmixwiththecreamcheeseandblacktruffle.

TopreparethesucklingpigVeryslowlycookthelegofsucklingpiginthehotduckfatoverat165ºF(74ºC)forabout6hoursoruntilthemeatisverytender,debone.CutthemeatintorectanglesandwrapthemintheCulatellodiZibelloham.

To serve Carefully stuff the potatoes with the mushroom and cream cheesestuffing.

Makelargedotsonadinnerplateusingthemustardpaint.Placethepotatoesonthesedotsthenplacetherectanglesofsucklingpigoneithersideofthedots.

POLLOALABRASA

BackinanotherlifeIhadthefirstRotisseriechickenrestaurantinMiami.Itwaseponymously named ROTISSERIA! and was a great deal of fun. Though itsurvived hurricane Andrew it succumbed to bad location, leaving many fansdestitute.Thisisanapproximationofourchickenmarinade,whichIworkedonfortwomonthsuntilthemaracuyáoccurredtomewhendrivinginmycar.Ouroriginal recipe didn’t have the stout beer but I find this gives the chicken anaddedbeautytotheeye.


1free-rangechicken1cupSelvabottledconcentratedmaracuyá(passionfruit)juiceorcanned

juice1cupSelvabottledconcentratedpineapplejuiceorcannedjuice4tbspsoysauce1cupGuinnessorotherstoutorblackbeer1tspblackpepper¼cupkeylimejuice¼cuplima(Citruslimetta)juice4tbspwhitesugar5cupswater½cupBadiaCompleteSeasoning½tspsalt

ExtrasPrepareFrenchfries

Preparation

TomakethemarinadeInabowl,mixthepassionfruitandpineapplejuices,thesoysauce,theblackbeer,water,pepperandBadiaCompleteSeasoning.

Inadifferentbowl,mixthekeylimejuicewith2tbspofsugarandinathirdbowl,mixthelimajuicewiththeremaining2tbspofsugar.

Combinethekeylimemixtureandthelimamixtureinthefirstbowlwiththefruitjuicemixture.

Usingafork,makedeepholesalloverthechickensothatthemarinadecandeeplypenetratethemeat.Placethechickeninadeepbowlandsmearwiththemarinade.Thechickenshouldpracticallybesubmergedinthemarinadesothatall of the ingredients can penetrate the whole chicken. Leave to marinateovernight.

To cook the chicken Pre-heat the oven to 350ºF (180ºC).Remove the chicken

from themarinade and place in a heatproof glass or ceramic dish or a metalroasting pan.When the oven is hot, insert the chicken and cook for one hourmaking sure to bastewith themarinade every 15minutes so that the chickendoesnotdryout.

Whenready,theskinshouldbeadarkgoldenbrownandcrisp.

ToserveTraditionallythisisservedwithFrenchfries.Although,backinmydaywe served it with new potatoes in tarragon butter sauce or with “moros ycristianos”;averycubanblackbeanandricemix.

POLLOBEBÉPEKINÉS



6smallchickensweighingapprox.1¾lb(800g)eachVegetarianfriedricefor6persons1cup(250g)Nikkeisauce9oz(250g)pickledturnip

Forthechickenstuffing7oz(200g)freshginger,peeledandfinelychopped¼bunchspringonions,cleaned,wholeJapaneseSevenSpicePowder(ShichimiTogarashi)4cups(1liter)soysauceWater

Forthevegetarianfriedrice1¾lbs(800g)longgrainrice3½oz(100g)snowpeas2eggs1cupzucchinisquash,chopped31/3tbsp(50ml)soysauce1tsp(5g)whitesugar5½tbsp(80g)hoisinsauce3cupsbeansprouts4springonions,chopped1redBellpepper,chopped31/3tbsp(50ml)sesameoil1tbspgratedginger6cups(1½liters)water1tspsalt

FortheNikkeisauce2½tsp(12.5g)whiteonion,minced¼stalkoflemongrass11/3tbsp(20ml)sesameoil2tsp(2.5ml)garlic,minced2tbsp(30ml)hoisinsauce2tbsp(30ml)teriyakisauce2tbsp(30ml)oystersauce1tsp(7g)freshginger,grated½cup(1/8liter)darkmeatstock(p.236)

Forthepickledturnip11oz(300g)turnip1ajíamarillo7/8cup(200ml)whitevinegar1cup(100g)whitesugar

Preparation

To prepare the chickens Stuff the inside of the chickens with spring onions,ginger and the herbs.Use toothpicks to close the rear openingof the chicken.Mix the soy sauce with sufficient water so that the chickens will be halfsubmergedinliquid.Inasaucepancookfor20minutesthenturnoverandcookforanother20minutesthenremovethestuffing.PourtheNikkeisauceoverthechickens (breastup)andcook in theoven for10minutes togive themadark,lacqueredsheen.

To make the fried rice In a large saucepan, precook the rice and salt inapproximately6cups(1½liters)ofwaterfor40minutesoruntilallthewaterisabsorbed.Inawokovermediumheat,place thesesameoiland thegratedginger.Whenhot,addthevegetablesandsauté:whencookedaddtherice,mixingwell.Addthehoisinsauceandthesugarthenremovefromtheheatandsetasidewiththelidon.

Beattheeggsandfryinashallowpanlikeanomelette.Oncecookedsliceandchopintosquaresthenaddtothericemixture.

TopreparetheNikkeisauceInasaucepan,usingthewhiteonion,garlic,ginger,lemongrass stalks and sesame oil, make your seasoning. Once the onion hasbecome transparent add the oyster, teriyaki and hoisin sauces along with thedarkmeatstock.Reduceandthenstrain.

TopreparethepickledturnipVeryfinelyslicetheturnipandcuttheajíamarilloin fine julienne. In a hermetic container, place the turnip and theají amarilloaddingthevinegarandthesugar.Setasidefor2daysbeforeusing.

ToservePlace thefriedrice inasoupbowlandon topof thatplace thesmallchicken.DrizzlewiththeNikkeisauceandusethepickledturniptodecorate.

Tip:Don’tforget tomakethepickledturnip2daysbeforeyouintendtomakethisrecipe.

PULPOBRASA,PURÉDEHABAS,CANELÓNDEPIQUILLOYQUESO

DECABRA

JamesBerckemeyerisafinerepresentativeofthenewPeruviangastronomy.HestudiedatLeCordonBleuPerúandtheItalianCulinaryInstituteforForeigners(ICIF).Heisamemberoftheyounggenerationofavant-gardechefsinLima.


13oz(360g)octopustentacles1redonion,chopped6bayleaves4tomatoes,chopped

21/2cups(600ml)extravirginoliveoil6bayleaves4clovesofgarlic2tsp(10g)paprika

Forthevegetablestock1/2redonion,chopped2stalkcelery,chopped1/2leek,choppedSaltandpeppertotaste4cups(1liter)water

Forthefavabeanpurée11/3lbs(600g)greenfavabeans7tbsp(100g)choppedredonion2clovesofgarlic,choppedAlittleoliveoil

Forthepiquillocannelloni8Camposolorotherbrandcannedpiquillopeppers7oz(200g)creamygoatcheeseExtravirginoliveoilasneeded6leavesofbasil,finelyminced

Preparation

TopreparetheoctopusCleantheoctopustentacleswithsaltandwater.Freezethem.Oncefrozen,puttheminboilingwaterwiththedicedtomatoes,onionand3bayleavesandcookfor45minutesat185ºF(85ºC).After45minutes,removethemfromthecookingwaterandplaceinacooleroronicetostopthecookingprocess.

Oncecold,leavetheoctopustomarinateforanhourintheoliveoil,garlic,paprikaand3morebayleaves.Sealonthegrilljustbeforeserving.

To prepare the fava bean purée Prepare a vegetable stock using the choppedonion,celeryandleek.Seeastandardtextforthis,suchas“TheJoyofCooking”oryoucanusegourmet-qualitycannedstock.

Boilthefavabeansfor5to6minutesinsaltedwaterandremovefromtheheat,strain.Placefavabeansinabowlofcoldwaterand,onebyone,removethewaxyouterskin.Forthefavabeanpurée,prepareaseasoningbaseusingtheredonion,garlicandalittleoliveoil.Addthesoftgreenpeeledfavabeansandalittle vegetable stock to the seasoning base and cook for a fewminutes, thenpuréeintheblender,addingenoughvegetablestocktomakeafairlystiffpuréeandsieve.Correctsaltandpepper.

TopreparethepiquillocannelloniSoftenthegoatcheesebymixingwitholiveoil(theamountofoiluseddependingonthetextureofthegoatcheese)andaddtheleavesofbasilcutintochiffonade.Rolloutroundsofthepiquilloandplacethe softened goat cheese on top.With your hands, roll up into the shape of acannelloniortube.

ToserveInthemiddleofadinnerplate,usethefavabeanpuréeasabase,placeawholeoctopustentacleontopand,finallyplacethepiquillocannelloni,oneon

topoftheother.

Tip:Thepuréecanalsobemadewithdriedor freshbutterbeans (largewhiteLimabeans).

RAVIOLCAMANÁDECAMARÓNENJUGODECHUPE



FortheraviolidoughUseyourfavoritepastarecipeordriedpastasheets.

Forthefavabean(broadbean)(Viciafaba)purée2.2lbs(1kg)tenderfavabeans,inthepod

1½oz(40g)curedpancettaornaturalsmokedbacon,finelysliced5shallots,finelysliced6clovesofgarlicconfit1sprigthyme1sprigparsley1bayleaf2½cups(600ml)chickenstock1¾oz(50ml)freshcreamOliveoilUnsaltedbutterFineseasalt

ForRafael’scrayfishcoralbutterCoralfrom2.2lbs(1kg)crayfish1½shallots,finelysliced3clovesofgarlicconfit½cup(125ml)whitewine½sprigthyme3½oz(100g)butter

Fortheraviolifilling2.2lbs(1kg)medium-sizedcrayfish¾lb(350g)squid18oz.(500g)mozzarellacheese8oz(200g)Philadelphiaorotherbrandcreamcheese¼cup(60ml)freshcream1¾cup(300g)broadbeanpurée8tspgarlicpurée4oz(120g)crayfishcoralbutter15tbsp(220ml)whitewine¼cup(60g)unsaltedbutterFreshlygroundpepperFineseasalt

ForRafael’scrayfishstock2.2lbs(1kg)crayfishheadsandshells1mediumwhiteonion,coarselychopped1headofgarlic3tbspajíamarillopaste1wholeleek,cutinhalflengthwise2tomatoes1mediumcarrot,peeledandcoarselychopped1bayleaf1sprigofparsley1sprigofthyme1½cups(375ml)whitewine10½cups(2½liters)basicfishfumetWater4tsp(20ml)vegetableoil½tspseasalt

Forthechupebroth1.2litersofcrayfishstock1cup(250ml)freshcream22/3oz(80g)freshlygratedGranaPadanoparmesancheese

Fortheextras16quaileggsFreshlygratedGranaPadanoparmesancheeseLeavesofhuacatay(Tagetesminuta),blackAndeanmint(awild

marigold),friedOliveoilSelf-risingflourFineseasalt

UtensilsPastamachine

Raviolicutter

Preparation

To prepare the fava bean (broad bean) purée In a saucepan in 1 tbsp of thebutterandafewdropsofoliveoil,sautéthepancettaorbaconuntilitislightlybrowned. Add the shallots, garlic, thyme, parsley and bay leaf and continuecookinguntiltheshallotsaresoft,about6minutes;seasonwiththefineseasalt.Incorporate the chicken stock and cook until it has reduced to a third of itsvolume,skimmingalloftheimpuritiesfromthesurface.

Atthesametime,removethefavabeansfromthepod.Placeabundantwaterinasaucepanandbringtoaboil.Overmediumheat,cookthebeansuntiltheyarealdente.Strain,peelthewaxyskinfromeachfavabeanandtransfertothepotwiththechickenstockmixture.Gentlycookuntilsoft,about2minutes,thenremovefromtheheat.Strain,reservingthestock.Discardthepancetta,shallots,garlic,thyme,parsleyandbayleaf.Littlebylittle,blendthefavabeans,thefreshcreamandthestockinablender toobtainafairlyfirmpurée.Seasonwith theseasalt,strainandsetaside.

TopreparethecrayfishtailsClean thecrayfishandcarefullyseparate the tails fromtheheads.Remove thecoral fromtheheadsandsetasidefor thecrayfishcoralbutter.Alsosetasidesomeheadsforthefinaldecorationandusetherestforthecrayfishstock.Usinga sharp knife, remove the shells from thecrayfish tails thenmake an incisionalongthebackofthetailstoremovethedark-coloredintestine.Washagain.

Seasonthetailswithfineseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper.

TopreparethecrayfishcoralbutterInasaucepanovermediumheat,heat1tablespoonofbutterthenincorporatetheclovesofgarlicconfit(orclovesofgarliccutinhalf),theshallotsandthymeandcookoverlowheatfor3minutes.Addthewhitewineandcontinuetocookuntilthewinehas evaporated.Add thebutter andwait for it tomelt.Remove fromheat. Incorporate thecrayfishcoralandmixwell then transfer toabowl.Waitfor the mixture to cool and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside in ahermeticcontainer.

TopreparetheraviolifillingHeatalargepotovermediumheatandincorporatethebutter followedbygarlicpuréeandbrownslightly.Add thecrayfish tails,cookforafewminutesthenincorporatethecrayfishcoralbutterandmixwell.Add the white wine, mix and remove the crayfish (these should be mediumcooked). Continue cooking until all of thewine has evaporated and set aside.Usethesamesaucepantopreparethechupebroth.To prepare the dough Use your favorite pasta recipe or dried pasta sheets.Rehydrate if necessary.Pass through thepastamachine about 10 timeson thethickest setting.Continuepassing thedough through themachine reducing thethicknesssettingeach timeuntilyouarriveat thepenultimatesetting.Pass thedoughthroughthisnumbertwice.Cutthedoughinhalf.

Ononehalfofthedough,placelittlemoundsofthecheesemixturefollowedby1 tsp of the broadbeanpurée and1crayfish tail on top, eachmound2 in(5cm)apart.Usetheotherhalfofthedoughtocoverand,usingyourfingertip,gentlypressaroundeachmoundofmixture inorder to removeasmuchairaspossible.

Usingtheraviolicutter,cutthedoughtoformsmallsquares.Setaside.Usethe sameprocess topreparemore ravioliwith the remainingdoughand fillingmixture.

ToprepareRafael’scrayfishstockWash and drain the crayfish heads and shells (from the crayfish used for thesautéedcrayfishbelow)andthensetthemaside.

Cutalittleoffboththetopandbottomoftheheadofgarlic.Cutoutthestemendfromthetomatoeswiththepointofasharpknifeandmakeacross-shapedincisiononthebottom.Washthevegetablesinplentyoffreshwateranddrain.

Inalargepot,heatthevegetableoilandaddthevegetablestogetherwiththeherbs.Cookovermediumheatforabout8minutesoruntiltheyaresoft.Seasonwith theseasaltandaddtheajíamarillopaste.Return thecrayfishheadsandshellstothismixtureand,mixingwell,tryandlightlypresstheheadsandshellssothattheyreleasetheirparticulararomas.Addthewhitewineandcookuntilithasevaporated.

Incorporatethefishfumetandsufficientwatertocovertheheadsandshellsand vegetables by about 2 in (5 cms). Cook over low heat for about 3 hoursevery now and again skimming off the impurities that appear on the surface.Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilthestockiscompletelycold.Strainand

setaside.

TopreparethechupebrothPlace thecrayfish stock in the samepotused toprepare thecrayfish stuffing.Overhighheat,cookthisstockuntilitisreducedbyhalf.Addthefreshcreamandbringtoaboil.Littlebylittle,stirringconstantly,incorporatetheparmesancheeseuntilithascompletelymelted.Removefromtheheat.

Cooktheravioli insmallbatchesinplentyofsaltedboilingwater.Usingaskimmingladle,removetheravioliandtransfertothepotcontainingthechupebroth.Continuecookingtheravioliuntiltheyareallinthepot.TopreparethedecorationIna fryingpan, fry thequaileggs ina littleoliveoil.Removefromthefryingpanandheatsomemoreoliveoil.Whenready,frytheleavesofhuacatay.Thiswillliterallytakesecondssobeverycareful.Removefromtheoilandsetasideonabsorbentpaperkitchentowel.

ToserveBringthechupebrothandraviolistoaboilandserveaccompaniedbythefriedquaileggs, the friedhuacatay leaves, the friedcrayfishheadsanda littleextraparmesancheese.

Tips:Thiscrayfishstockisavariationofthebasicrecipeshownonlink.Thecrayfishcoralbutterisavariationoftherecipeshownonlink.

RISOTTOCRIOLLO

UgoPlevisani is thesourceof thiswonderfuldish that isnowcopiedonmanyPeruvianrestaurants.Hetellsusofitsorigins:“WhenIlivedinItalyasaboy,Iremembermyfather,anextraordinarychef,usedtorecreatewithnostalgiatheflavors and aromas that he had so loved in Peru. He used to prepare anexquisite“lomosaltado”forelegantdinnersathome,muchtotheappreciationofhisItalianfriends.This“fusion”withtherisottowascreatedmanyyearsagowith amagnificent chef, an ex-disciple ofmy father’s, and it has beenonourrestaurant’smenueversince.”


14oz(380g)beeftenderloin,rumpsteakorflanksteak3oz(80g)ajíamarillo,about2/3ofanajíamarillo3½oz(100g)tomato,about2smallplumtomatoes

5½oz(100g)redonion,about1mediumredonion1cloveofgarlic2tsp(10ml)soysauce11/3cups(240g)Arborio,CarnaroliorVialoneNanorice1recipedarkmeatstock,butwithoutsaltandreducedto4cups(1liter)or

1literunsaltedchickenbroth3½tbsp(50g)unsaltedbutter5tsp(25ml)oliveoil1tsp(5g)oregano2tsp(10g)cilantro2tsp(10g)parsley31/3tbsp(50ml)whitewineSaltandpeppertotaste

Preparation

Peel the tomatoes and remove excess liquid and seeds. Cut in thick julienne.Removethemembranesandseedsfromtheajíesandcutinthinjulienne.Cleanandcuttheonioninthickjulienne.Crushthegarlicinitsskin.

TopreparethemeatCutthebeeftenderloininthickstrips.Ifitisrumpsteakorflanksteak,cutinthinnerstripsandacrossthegrain.Overhighheat,heatalmostalloftheoliveoilinafryingpanorawok.Addthestripsofmeatafewatatime(sotheybrownandnotboil)addingsaltandpeppertotasteandsprinklingwithoregano.

Drizzlewiththesoysauce.Putonaplateandsetinawarmplace.Sautétheonionandtheajíamarillountiltheybegintocaramelizeandgive

off theircharacteristicaroma.Addthetomatoforoneminute.Addsaltandsetasideontheplatewiththemeat.

Deglazethebottomofthefryingpanwithalittlestockorwaterandpourthedeglazingjuiceoverthemeat.

To prepare the rice In a medium sized saucepan (with long handle and highsides) heat the butter and the rest of the olive oil and add the crushed garlicclove.Addthericeandcoatitwellwiththeoiluntilitshinesalmostgolden(Toshine,‘brillareilriso’,theItalianssay).Removethegarlicanddiscard.

Addthewineandstirwell.Let thealcoholevaporateovermediumtohighheat. Adding ladlefuls of broth at a time as it becomes absorbed continuecooking therice.Halfway through,addsalt.Afterabout15minutes,when thericeisalmostcooked,addall theingredients thatyouhavereservedonaplatebearinginmindthatthetomatoaddsliquidtothepreparation.Turnofftheheatataboutthe18thminutewhenthericeisgoingtobeconsiderablyaldenteandthepreparationverycreamy.

Taste; correct salt andpepper; add the chopped cilantro and the remainingbutterusingawoodenspoontoemulsifytherisotto.

To serve Simply place in themiddle of a dinner plate, decoratewith choppedparsleyandofferParmesancheesetothosewhosodesire.

TACUTACUALANORTEÑACONSECODELANGOSTINOS

DanielManrique,oftheSegundoMuellechaintellsus:IwasalwaysinterestedinknowingwhereourgastronomycamefromandNorthernPerúplaysamainroleinthisproposal.IadoretacutacusandtheflavorsfromtheNorth.Onthisoccasionwewantedtoplaywiththeconceptwherechichadejora,cilantroand(saltwater)shrimpwereourinspirationforthissingulardish.


Forthestuffing13oz(360g)shrimp31/3tbsp(50ml)vegetableoil½cup(80g)redonionbrunoisecut51/3tbsp(80g)ajíamarillosauce

12cloves(40g)finelymincedgarlic½cup(120ml)drywhitewine12/3cup(400ml)fishfumet22/3tbsp(40g)ajípancapasteScant½cup(60g)flourdilutedinalittlewater

FortheTacuTacu3cups(640)greenfavabeanpurée3cups(360g)cookedrice2cups(280g)secosauce

Forthesecosauce61/2cups(400g)washedcilantro22/3cup(400g)brunoisecutredonion51/3tbsp(80g)ajípancapaste62/3tbsp(100ml)vegetableoil8cloves(20g)garlic,minced¾cup(120g)dilutedflour2/3cup(200ml)whitewine

Forthegarnish1cup(120g)SalsacriollaAfew(20g)friedyuca(cassavaormanioc)chipsAfewlettucegreens

Preparation

Toprepare thesecosauceHeat theoil ina fryingpan,makeasofritoorbaseseasoningusingtheonionandthegarlic.Cookuntilgoldenthenaddthewhitewineandleavetoreduceforafewmoments.Blendthecilantrowithalittlefishfumetandadd to fryingpan togetherwith the remaining ingredients.Leave tocookforafewminutesandthenlightlybindwithflourdilutedinwater.

TopreparethefavabeanpuréePeelthefavabeansthenblanchtheminboilingwaterfor3minutes.Puréeinblenderwithalittlewatertomakeapaste.

Topreparethetacutacu Inafryingpanaddthegreenfavabeanpuréewith2tbsp(30g)ofthesecosauce.Addtherice.Mixwellandsetaside.

TopreparethestuffingRemovetheshrimpheadsanddeveinthetails.Setaside.Inafryingpan,frytheonionintheoiltogetherwiththegarlicuntilgolden,

addthewhitewineandletreduceforafewmoments.Blendthecilantrowithalittlefishfumetinablenderorprocessorandpourintothefryingpanwiththeajíamarillosauceandtheajípanca, letcookforafewminutesandthenbindwiththedilutedflour.

ToserveForeachserving,filla3inhigh,2½indiameterfoodplatingmold(orcut a piece ofPVC)half full of tacu tacuon a dinner plate and arrange someshrimp on top. Spoon some seco sauce over the shrimp and remove the ring.Finally, decorate platewith a fewyuca chips and lettucegreens andplace theSalsacriollaononesideoftheplate.

TACUTACUDEPEPIÁNCONSALTADODECAMARÓN



Forthepepián4cupskernelsoftendersweetcorn,removedfromcob2medium-sizedwhiteonions,minced8clovesgarlicconfit,puréed2½tbspajíamarillopaste

1tbspajípancapaste4chickenwings,cutinhalfatjoint,thetipdiscarded1bayleaf61/3cups(1.5liters)chickenstock4tsp(20ml)vegetableoilFineseasaltFreshlygroundpepper

ForRafael’scrayfishcoralbutterCoralfrom18medium-sizedcrayfish1½shallots,finelysliced3clovesofgarlicconfit½cup(125ml)whitewine½sprigthyme3½oz(100g)butter

ForRafael’scrayfishstock31/3lbs(1½kg)crayfishheadsandshells1medium-sizedwhiteonion,peeledandcoarselychopped1headofgarlic3tbspajíamarillopaste1wholeleek,cutinhalflengthwise2tomatoes1medium-sizedcarrot,peeledandcoarselychopped1bayleaf1sprigofparsley1sprigofthyme1½cups(375ml)whitewine10½cups(2½liters)basicfishfumetWater4tsp(20ml)vegetableoil½tspseasalt

Forthevongole/cockle/clamstock180mlwhitewine350gvongole/cockles/clams8clovesgarlic1literfishfumet3sprigsparsley1sprigthymeExtravirginoliveoil

Forthesautéedcrayfish3lbs(1½kg)medium-sizedcrayfish1ajíamarillo,withoutseedsorveins;cutinfinestrips2medium-sizedwhiteonions,coarselysliced7/8cup(200ml)whitewine11/2cups(350ml)whitesauce21/2cups(600ml)crayfishstock12/3cups(400ml)vongole/cockle/clamstock3tbspcrayfishcoralbutter6clovesofgarlic,puréed3tbsp(45g)ajíamarillopaste1handfulofcilantro,coarselychopped31/3tbsp(50ml)oliveoilFineseasaltFreshlygroundpepper

ForthepepiántacutacuThepepiánbase

31/3cups(400g)cookedlonggrainrice1cupcookedbabypeas7oz(200g)Serranofreshwhitecheese,cutinsmallcubesOliveoil

Cilantroleaves

Preparation

To prepare the pepián To select tender sweet corn on the cob, the color (ofPeruvian corn) should be immaculately white and the juice should be milkywhite.

Washthekernelsofcorninplentyofwaterthendryonakitchentowelandroughlyblend–theresultshouldbelumpybutnotliquid.Setaside.Inaheavy-basedpot,heattheoliveoilandbrownthechickenwingsonallsides.Removethewingsandadd thewhiteonions,garlicpurée and thebay leaf.Cookoverlowheatforabout10to12minutes,stirringfromtimetotimeuntilonionsaresoft.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Addtheajípancaandtheajíamarillopastesandcontinuetocookforanadditional3minutes.Addtheblendedcornandcookfor1minutestirringconstantly.Seasononceagainwithfineseasaltandreturnthe chickenwings to the pot. Add the chicken stock little by little, until it isabsorbed,stirringcontinuallyuntilyoucanseethebottomofthesaucepanandthecorniscooked,about25minutes.Checktheseasoningonceagain.Removethebayleafandchickenwingsandsetthepepiánaside.

FirststeptopreparingthecrayfishCarefully separate the tails from the heads of the crayfish. Remove the coralfromtheheadsandsetasideforthecoralbutter.Reserve6-8headsforthefinaldecorationandusetheothersforthecrayfishstock.

TopreparethecrayfishcoralbutterIn a small frying pan over medium heat, heat 1 tablespoon of butter thenincorporate the cloves of garlic confit (or cloves of garlic cut in half), theshallotsand thyme, lower theheatandcookover lowheat for3minutes.Addthe white wine and continue to cook until the wine has evaporated. Add thebutterandwaitforittomelt.Removefromheat.Incorporatethecrayfishcoralandmixwell then transfer to a bowl.Wait for themixture to cool and strainthroughafine-meshsieve.Setasideinahermeticcontainer.

ToprepareRafael’scrayfishstockWashanddrainthecrayfishheadsandshells(fromthecrayfishusedforthesautéedcrayfishbelow)andsetthemaside.

Cutalittleoffboththetopandbottomoftheheadofgarlic.Cutoutthestem

endfromthetomatoeswiththepointofasharpknifeandmakeacross-shapedincisiononthebottom.Washthevegetablesinplentyoffreshwateranddrain.

Inalarge,heavypot,heatthevegetableoilandaddthevegetablestogetherwiththeherbs.Cookovermediumheatforabout8minutesoruntiltheyaresoft.Season with the sea salt and add the ají amarillo paste. Return the crayfishheadsandshellstothismixtureand,mixingwell,tryandlightlymashtheheadsandshellsso that theyrelease theirparticulararomas.Add thewhitewineandcookuntilthewinehasevaporated.

Add the fish fumet and enough water to cover the heads and shells andvegetables by about 2 ins (5 cms). Cook over low heat for about 3 hoursoccasionallyskimmingtheimpuritiesthatappearonthesurface.

Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilthestockiscompletelycold.Strainandsetaside.

Topreparethevongole/cockle/clamstockWash the cockles in plenty of water then drain and set aside. In a smallsaucepan,heattheoliveoilandsautétheclovesofgarlic.Addtheclams,parsleyandthymeandcookforafewminutes.Addthewineandcoverthesaucepanandcook over medium heat until the wine has evaporated and the clams haveopened.Discardanyclamsthatdonotopen.Addthefishfumetandheatuntilitstartstoboil.Continuecookingfortenminutes.Letcoolthenstrain.

TopreparethesautéedcrayfishUsing a sharp knife, remove the skin from the crayfish tails then make anincisionalongthebackofthetailstoremovethedark-coloredintestines.Washagain.Removeasmuchfleshaspossiblefromtheclaws.Seasonthetailsandtheclawfleshwithfineseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper.Coarselychoptheonion,washanddrain.

Heata littleof theoliveoil ina large fryingpanand fry the tails in smallbatchesoverhighheatuntilmediumcooked.Toeachbatchaddadashofwhitewineandwait for it toevaporate.Remove the tails fromtheoilandrepeat theprocessuntilallofthetailshavebeencooked.Addtheremainingoliveoiland,whenhot,cooktheonionforafewmomentsbeforeaddingthegarlicconfit,theajíamarilloandthecrayfishcoralbutter.Cookfor1minutemixingwellthenseasonwith the fine sea salt.Add theclamandcrayfishstocks andcookovermediumheatuntiltheliquidhasreducedbyhalf.Removefromtheheat.

TopreparethetacutacuMix the cooked rice, peas and fresh white cheese. Little by little, add thepreviously prepared pepián mixture stirring continually until reaching thedesired creamy consistency and finally, add a little olive oil. Check theseasoning.

Ina fryingpan,heat4 tsp (20ml)ofoliveoil and,one thickishpattyat atime, add the corn and rice mixture and let brown all over. The pepián-ricepattiesshouldbeslightlycrispyontheoutside.Setaside.

TopreparethedecorationInafryingpan,heattheoliveoil.Whenhot,frythe6-8reservedcrayfishheadsforabout30secondsoruntiltheyturnredandarecrisp.

Reheatthesautéedcrayfishsaucecarefullyaddingthewhitesauce.Whenitstartstoaboil,incorporatethecrayfishtailsandcookuntilalmostboiling.

ToservePlaceoneofthetacutacupattiesinthemiddleofadinnerplateandcoverwithsomeofthesautéedcrayfishtailsintheirsauce.Placeoneofthefriedcrayfishheadsontopofthisbywayofdecorationalongwithsomeofthecilantroleaves.

TIPS:Thiscrayfishcoral butter and thecrayfish stock are variations of thebasicrecipesshownonp.235.

SideDishesThemain side dish found in Peru is rice. Brought to Peru by the Spanish, itquickly became a staple food and is eaten with almost every meal. Thepreparation is slightlydifferent fromEuropeanorAsianmethodsand includesoilandgarlic.Therecipehereincludessautéedcornkernelsbutthisisoptional.Beans have also traditionally always been eaten in Peru and make a verypopularsidedish,bothseasonedandpuréed,therecipesareincludedhere.

ARROZALAPERUANAThe Spanish brought rice to Peru and first cultivated it in the coastal areas.PeruvianslovericeandwilleatitalongsideitsQuechuaequivalent,thepotato.In fact, few meals in Peru are complete without it. Rice and potato servedtogetheristhemostpermanentlyvisibleandmostessentialexampleofthefusionofAndeanandEuropeancuisinesandingredients.


4cupsrice¼cupvegetableoil1heapedtbspmincedgarlic8cupswater2tbspbutter3cupsfreshcornkernels,cookedSalttotaste

Preparation

In a large pan heat the oil over medium heat and sauté the garlic for 2 or 3minutesuntilcookedbutnotbrown.Addriceandcombinewell.Cook,stirringforacoupleofminutesmore.Seasonwithsaltandaddthewater.

Bringtoaboil.Lowertheheatandsimmer,covered,onverylowheatfor15minutes.Thenturnoffheatandleavecoveredfor5moreminutes.

Meanwhilesautéthecornkernelsinthebutter.Removelidfromthericepanandaddthecornkernels.Mixgentlywithaforktoseparategrainsandintegratethecornkernels.

Spoonontoplatesorusecupmoldstoformindividualservings.

FRIJOLGUISADOThemostcommonbeanusedinPeruisthefrijolcanariooryellowcanarybean.Sweetened,Peruviansevenmakeadessert from them.Here theyare seasonedandservedasasavorysidedish.Anydriedwhitebeansorevenkidneybeanscanbesubstitutedasavariation.


3cupsyellowcanarybeans¼cupvegetableoil1cupchoppedredonion4clovesgarlic,crushed¼cupajípancapaste

Preparation

Soakbeansovernight.Heatoil ina largepanandsautéonionandgarlic,overmediumheat,untilgolden,about5minutes.Addajípancapasteandcookforafurther2or3minutes.Drain beans and add to the pot, stirring to coverwith seasonings.Coverwithplentyofwaterandbringback to theboil.Lowerheatandsimmeruntilbeansaresoft,about1hour.

PURÉDEPALLARESPuré de pallares is a perfect accompaniment to adobo de chancho aswell assecoandotherfishandmeatdishes.Youmayliketoaddmorethanonecheese.Therearesomerecipeswithuptofourcheeses,oneofwhichisabluecheese.


4cupslargedriedwhitelimaorbutterbeans3tbspbutter½cupParmesancheese½cupheavycreamSaltandwhitepepper

Preparation

Soakbeansovernight.Drainandremoveouterskinsfrombeans.Placeinalargepanofcoldsaltedwaterandbringtotheboil.Cookfor30to40minutesuntilthebeansaretender.Inablenderorfoodprocessorfittedwithasteelblade,processbean purée until smooth. Scrape into a bowl and add butter, Parmesan cheeseandheavycream.Mixwell,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andservewarm.

BasicRecipes

ACHIOTEOILIngredients

2tbspachioteseeds1cupvegetableoil

Preparation

Put2tablespoonsofachioteseedsand1cupofvegetableoilinasaucepanoverlowheat.Stiroccasionallyandletcookforaboutfiveminutes.Itisdonewhentheoilisarichorangecolor.Donotovercook,theoilwillbegintoloseitsflavorandwillbegintolightenincolor.Removefromheat,letcool.

ARROZCONLECHE


1cuprice2cupswater1wholestickofcinnamon2clovesGratedrindofoneorange1canevaporatedmilk1cancondensedmilk3½oz(100g)raisins1eggyolk

½cupportwine1eggwhite4tbspwhitesugarPinchofsalt

Preparation

Thenightbeforeyouwish tomake this recipe, soak the raisins in just enoughwaterorPiscotocoverthem.

Putthewaterinasaucepanandaddtheorangerind, thestickofcinnamonand thecloves.Bring toaboil.When thewater isboiling,add therice, coverandcookoverlowheatuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed,about30minutes.

Addtheevaporatedmilkandstircontinuallysothericedoesn’tsticktothepan.When themixture starts to boil, add the condensedmilk and the raisins.Cookforanother10minutesstirringconstantly,untilthemixturethickens.

Removefromheatandaddtheeggyolk,¼cupofportandapinchofsalt.Mixwell.

Heattheremaining¼cupofport togetherwiththesugarinasmall,heavysaucepan,untilitbecomessyrup.

Beat the eggwhite until it forms stiff peaks and gently fold in the syrup.Finally,addthissweetmeringuetothericemixture.

To serve Decorate with powdered cinnamon or, if you wish, with a stick ofcinnamon.

CRAYFISHCORALBUTTERIngredients

3½oz(100g)crayfishheads3½oz(100g)butter

Preparation

Pinchthebaseoftheheadsbetweenthumbandforefingerandsqueezegentlytoextract the coral. Reserve corals and discard the small black sac that is alsofound inside the head.Using equal parts butter and coral,melt the butter in asmall skillet over medium heat and cook the crayfish corals for two to threeminutes. Do not overheat or butter will separate. Strain using a fine-meshedstrainer.

CRAYFISHSTOCK

Ingredients2½lbs(1.2kilo)crayfishheadsandshells2qts+3cupscoldwater1cuponion,coarselychopped½cupcarrot,coarselychopped½cupcelery,coarselychopped1tbspgarlic,chopped1bayleaf¼tspdriedthyme¼tspcrushedblackpeppercorn4sprigsparsley

Preparation

Washthecrayfishheadsandshellsundercoldrunningwaterthenplacethemina large saucepan togetherwith the remaining ingredients.Bring thewater to aboilandthenlowertheheat toagentlesimmer.Everynowandagain,removetheimpuritiesthatrisetothesurface.Letthestocksimmerfor45minutestoanhour.Removefromtheheatand,usingabathoficewaterandice,coolthestockasquicklyaspossible.Oncecool,refrigerateorfreeze.

DARKMEATSTOCK

Ingredients

5tsp(25ml)vegetableoil14oz(400g)oxtail14oz(400g)beefshank½stalkcelery,chopped½leek,chopped½cup(75g)onion,chopped½cup(64g)carrot,chopped1bayleaf1¼cup(300ml)redwine6cups(1½liters)water

Theabovemakes1.5litersofstock.

Preparation

Preheattheovento350ºF(180ºC).Placethemeatandbonesonametalroastingpanandcookintheovenforapproximately25minutesoruntiltheyaregolden.

Inalargepotheat thevegetableoil thenbrownall thevegetables.Addthebrownedbones to thepot anddeglaze the roastingpanwith the redwine.Letcookforalittlelongeruntilthewineisreducedbyhalf.Addthereducedwinetothevegetablesinthepotwiththewaterandleavetosimmeroverthelowestheatfor 15 hours.Cool as quickly as possible by placing the liquid in a bowl andleavingonice.Strainanddiscardbones,vegetables,etc.,keepingonlythestock.Letcool,refrigerate,removefatthatrisestothetopandsolidifies.Canbefrozeninicecubetraysorsmallcontainerstobeusedasneeded.

FISHFUMET

Ingredients

5lbs(2½kg)fishcarcasses(withouttheheads),choppedinlargepieces1lb(500g)celery,chopped1tbsp(5g)garlic,chopped¾cup(125g)onion,chopped2½cups(400g)leek,chopped6½tsp(32ml)vegetableoil1tsp(5g)wholepepper1bayleaf142/3cups(3.5liters)water

Theabovemakes1.75litersofbroth.

Preparation

In a large saucepan, seal all the vegetables using the vegetable oil. Add thepiecesoffishcarcassandfryoveralowheat.Addthewater.Leavetoreduceforabout 45 minutes. When ready, place in a bowl on ice to chill the fumet asquicklyaspossible.Strainandrefrigerateorfreezeinapolycarbonateorplasticstoragecontainertobeusedasneeded.

MANJARBLANCOManjar Blanco, or “white delicacy”, very similar to dulce de leche, is anessentialingredientinmanyPeruviandesserts.Asweetmilkcaramelusedasafillingorbase fordesserts, it’sa little time-consuming tomakebutwellworththe effort. Once made, it will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator, andmakesadelicious spread for your favoritebreadsor crackers.Manjarblancocanalsobeflavoredandeatenasadeliciouspudding,whichmakesitcomfortfood,fineeatingandelegantbuffetfareallatonce.

Ingredients

Standardmanjarblanco

1can(14½oz)evaporatedmilk1can(14oz)condensedmilk

Makesabout2cupsofmanjarblancoManjarblancodelúcuma

1can(14½oz)evaporatedmilk2cans(28oz)condensedmilk2½cups(550g)lúcuma,peeled,seeded

Manjarblancodechocolate

2cans(29oz)evaporatedmilk2cupsgranulatedsugar½cupsiftedcocoapowder1tspvanillaextract1tspbutter2tbsp(20g)choppednutsfordecoration

Preparation

ManjarBlancoCombinethetwomilksinaheavy-basedsaucepanandsimmergentlyoverlowheat,stirringcontinuallywithawoodenspoon,untilthemixturethickenstoadroppingconsistencyoruntilalittledroppedonacoldplatethickensimmediatelyanddoesn’trundowntheplateandyoucanseethebottomofthesaucepanwhenstirringabout1hour.Letcoolbeforeusing.

ManjarBlancodeLúcumaBlendtheevaporatedmilkandthefruittogetherandthensievetoremoveanytoughfibers.Combinethemixturewiththecondensedmilkinaheavybasedpanandfollowthesameprocedureasforstandardmanjarblanco.

ManjarBlancodeChocolateInaheavy-basedsaucepan,simmerthefirstfouringredientstogetheroverlowheat,stirringcontinuouslywithawoodenspoonuntilthemixturethickenstoacoatingconsistencyoruntilthemixturethicklycoatsthebackofaspoon,about45minutesto1hour.Mixinthebutterandremovefromtheheat.Pourintoaservingdishandallowtoset.Decoratewithchoppednutsandsiftedcocoa.

Note:Tomakedeliciouscoconutflavoredmanjarblancosimplyadd½cup(ormoretotaste)ofdriedgratedcoconuttothebasicrecipe.Fortherichermanjarblancodeyemaswhisk in5beateneggyolks to thebasicmixturewhen ithascooled.

FRIEDSHOESTRINGPOTATOESOROTHERTUBERS

Ingredients

1lb(½kg)white,yelloworsweetpotatoes2cups(½liter)ofvegetableoilSalttotaste

Preparation

Firstpeelpotatoesthencutthemintoveryfinestripsonamandolin.Heatyourvegetable oil over a high heat then fry the strips until they are golden andcrunchy.Drainoffanyexcessoilandseasonwithsalt.

Note:youcanalsousecarrotsinsteadofpotatoes

GARLICPURÉEIngredients

2wholeheadsofgarlic1oz(25ml)oliveoil2sprigsofthyme

Preparation

Smeartheheadsofgarlicwiththeoliveoilthenaddthethymeleaves.Wrapthegarlic and thyme in foil and roast in preheated 400ºF (200ºC) oven for 20minutesuntilthegarlicisverysoftandcreamy.

GARLICCONFITIngredients

½lb(250g)clovesofgarlic,peeled

2cups(500ml)oliveoil

1sprigthyme1bayleaf1oz(30g)slicedbacon

Preparation

Place the clovesof garlic in a saucepan and coverwithwater.Bring to a boilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat,discardthehotwaterandrefreshtheclovesofgarlicincoldwater.Repeatthisprocesstwicemore.

Place the clovesof garlic in a small saucepan adding theoliveoil, thyme,bay leaf andbacon.Cookover a lowheat forbetween45minutes and1hourslightlybrowningthegarlic.Removefromtheheatandwaitforthemixturetocool.

Discardthebacon,thebayleafandthethyme.Storethegarlicinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratortogetherwiththeoilitwascookedin.

SUSPIRODELIMEÑAIngredients

1cupNestlécondensedmilk1canevaporatedmilk6eggyolksatroomtemperature4eggwhitesatroomtemperature1cupofportwine1½cupsofwhitesugarGroundcinnamonfordecoration

Preparation

In a heavy saucepan, mix the two milks and cook over low heat movingconstantlytoavoidburning(whichwillruintheflavor).Letcookuntilyoucanseethebottomofthepan.Removefromtheheatletcoolalittle.Incorporatetheeggyolksoneatatime,stirringwelltoavoidtheircooking.Halffillindividualglasseswith the suspiromixture or form a layer in a buttered heatproof glassdish.

Mixtheportandsugartogetherinasaucepanandheatuntilitthickensandalittledropped inacupofcoldwater formsasoftball. Inacleanandverydrybowl,beattheeggwhitesandwhenthoroughlybeaten,startaddingthehotportwinesyrupinadrizzlecontinuingtobeatthemixturetoformastiffmeringue.Carryonbeatinguntilthemixingbowliscoldandthemeringueisalmostsolid.

Placethemeringueinapastrysleevewithastar-shapednozzleanddecoratethehalf-fullindividualglassesorthelayerofsuspirolimeñaintheglassdish.

ToserveSprinklethecinnamonoverthemeringue.

LECHEDETIGREPeruvians affectionately call the spicy marinade juices of ceviche “leche detigre”(Tiger’sMilk).Originally,Tiger’sMilkwasthejuiceleftatthebottomofa largeservingdishofceviche,servedupinshotglassesandtoutedasacureforhangover.More recently, it has come into its ownasanappetizerorhorsd’ouvreandnowisservedwithfishandotherseafoodinoronit.

Ingredients

½redonion1stalkofcelery1tbsp(15g)freshginger1cloveofgarlic,mashedJuiceof8keylimes2tbspchoppedcilantro1ajílimo,seeded,deveinedandchopped

2oz(60g)piecesofwhite-fleshedfishwithoutskin2tspevaporatedmilk2tspsalt1tspblackpepper

Preparation

Cutalloftheingredientsintolargepiecesthenletthemmarinatefor1hour.Putin blender, pulse 3 times, do not blend too much. Strain using a fine-meshstrainer.Correctseasoning.

LECHEDETIGRETOSHI-STYLE

Ingredients

½cup(125ml)keylimejuice3½oz(100g)flounder(orotherwhite-fleshedfish)fillet1tsp(5g)salt½tsppurpleajílimo,finelyminced,totaste½tspcloveofgarlicgratedusingaJapanesegrater,totaste1tsp(5g)drieddashikonbu(ediblekelp)

Preparation

Cutthefishinto½in(1cm)cubesandplaceitinabowlalongwiththesaltandset aside in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. When you remove it from therefrigerator, add the key lime juice and mix well. Press hard on the fish toreleasetheflavorandthenstrainallofthejuices.Discardthefish.

Mix the minced ají limo together with the key lime juice and the gratedgarlic.Add the dashi konbu. Leave tomarinate for a fewminutes. Strain andsqueezethedashikonbutoreleasetheflavor.Placethejuicesinablenderandblenduntiltheliquidturnswhite.Setthisasideintherefrigeratorat32-39ºF(0-4ºC).

SUSHIRICETOSHI-STYLEIngredients

2cups(500ml)whitevinegar2½cups(500g)sugar8tbsp(50g)salt

2.2lbs(1kilo)Japaneserice5cups(1.2liters)water

Preparation

Dissolvethesugarandsaltinthevinegaroverlowheatbeforemixingwiththerice.

Cookthericeinaricecookerandwhenready,letcoolinthesamecookerfor10minutes.Whilestillhot,mix thericewith thevinegarmixture inaheatresistantglassdishorbowluntil the ricehas absorbedall the liquid.Leave tocool at room temperature for at least 6 hours before using tomake themakis(sushirolls).

Condiments&Sauces

SEASONINGS

Ajíes or hot peppers in their various forms arewhat give a Peruvian dish itsessential flavor.Ajíes featureprominently inprehispanicmythology.ThenameofoneoftheeightlegendarybrothersandsisterswhofoundedtheIncaEmpire,AyarUchu,includestheQuechuaword“uchu”,theAndeanwordforhotpepperorají,inhisname.“Ají”isinfactaTainowordbroughtfromtheCaribbeanbythe Spaniards. Ajíes are used in two basic forms; as an aderezo which is aseasoning or dressing included in the preparation of a dish or in anaccompanyingsauceorsalsa.Theyareuseddriedorfreshandcanbeblanchedtoreducespiciness.Thevariousajíescanalsobeboughtreadytouseinjarsinmarketsandspecialtyfoodstores.

Eachoftherecipesmake1cup.

AJÍAMARILLOPASTEIngredients(for1cup)

1lb(½kg)ajíamarillo½cupsugar¼cupvinegar2tbspvegetableoil

PreparationWash,stem,seedanddeveintheajíamarillo.Placeinalargepotofcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Reduceheatandsimmerfor30-40minutesuntilajíesaresoft.Strainajíes,removetheskinandplaceinablenderor thebowlofafoodprocessor fittedwith a steel blade.Add theother ingredients.Blend to formacreamypaste.Pressthroughafinemeshsievetoremoveanypiecesofskin.

DRIEDAJÍMIRASOL&AJÍPANCAPASTE

Ingredients(for1cup)

2tbspvegetableoil1lb(½kg)driedajímirasolorajípancaWater

PreparationStem,seedanddevein theajíes. (Foraveryspicypasteyoucankeepsomeoftheveins).Toasttheminadryskilletoverhighheatforafewminutesandthenblanche them. Depending on the amount of spiciness you want your paste tohaveyoucanblanchejustonce,ortwoorthreetimes(inachangeofwatereachtime). The spiciness will reduce with each blanching. In a blender or foodprocessorfittedwithasteelblade,processtheajíeswithjustenoughvegetableoilandwater tomakea thickpaste.Push themixture throughafinesieveanddiscardanyremainingskinandveins.

MOTHEROFSAUCESThis simple mixture of herbs and spices can be used to add flavor to manydishes. Itcanbekepthandy in the refrigerator ina sealedcontainer for3 to4days.Here,RositaYimura,agranddameofPeruviannikkeicooking,bringsusherversionIngredients(for1cup)

1redonion,finelydiced1tbspajíorpaprika1tspdriedoregano¼cupvegetableoilSalt

PreparationHeatasmallskilletovermediumheatandaddtheoil.Whentheoilishot,addall the ingredients and sauté until the onion is completely translucent and juststarting to turn golden, about 10minutes. Remove from the heat and let coolbeforestoring.

SAUCESEachrecipemakesabout1cupofsalsa

HUACATAYWashanddrythehuacatayleaveswell.Blendwithajíamarilloinablenderorprocessorwhileaddingoil,vinegarandsalttoformasmoothpaste.

1lbajíamarillo,seeded,deveinedandchopped½cupfreshhuacatayleavesVinegarVegetableoilSalt

JALPAHUAICA(HAL-PUH-WHYCUH)Blendfirst five ingredients inablender tomakeacreamypaste.Scrape intoabowl.Mixinchoppedscallionsandserveasacondiment.

1rocoto,seededanddeveined2tomatoes,peeled,seededandchopped2tbspvegetableoil2scallions(whitepartonly)finelychoppedJuiceofonekeylimeSalt

MAYONESADEAJÍCombine egg, mustard, key lime juice, salt and pepper in a blender or foodprocessorfittedwithasteelblade.

Process for 1minute.With themotor running, add the twooils in a slowsteadystreamtoformawell-emulsifiedmayonnaise.Tastethemayonnaiseandadd seasoning if necessary. Scrape mayonnaise into a bowl and add the ajíamarillopaste.

1egg¼tspfreshlygroundpepper1tbspmustard1cupvegetableoil½cupoliveoil1tbspajíamarillopasteJuiceof1keylimeSalt

MAYONESADEROCOTOMakethemayonnaiseasforMayonesadeají.Scrapeintoabowlandsetaside.Tomaketherocotopaste,stem,seedanddeveintherocotos.Blancheinabout4cups (1 ltr) water, with½ tbsp sugar and 1 tsp vinegar. Repeat process threetimes,changingwater,sugarandvinegareachtime.Drainandplaceinblender.Processuntiltherocotoformsacreamypaste.Addrocotopastetomayonnaiseandmixthoroughlyuntilthesauceisarosypinkcolor.Addsalttotaste.

Fortherocotopaste2redrocotos1½tbspsugar3tspvinegar

SALSAALAHUANCAÍNAHeattheoliveoilinafryingpanand,whenhot,addtheajíamarillo,garlicandonion.Leavetocookoveramediumheatuntileverythingissoft,between8and10minutes.Seasonwithseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper.

Place the mixture in the blender together with the fresh cheese, sodacrackersandvegetableoil.Blendandthengraduallyincorporatetheevaporatedmilka littleata time,untilyouhaveahomogenous,creamysauce.Check theseasoning once again then place the salsaHuancaína in a hermetic containerandplaceintherefrigerator.

4ajíamarillo,deveined,seededandcutinpieces1/2whiteonion,cutinslices4clovesofgarlic,removingthegermandshoot2oz(60g)freshwhitecheese13½tbsp(200g)evaporatedmilk5sodacrackers3½tbsp(50g)vegetableoil2tbspoliveoilSeasaltFreshlygroundpepper

Makes1½cups

SALSACRIOLLA

Seasontheslicedonionwithalittlesalt.Rinseinplentyofcoldwateranddrainthoroughly.Placetheonioninasmallbowlandseasonagainwithsalt,keylimejuice and vinegar.Add theají amarillo, vegetable oil and cilantro or parsley.Mixwell.

2redonions,slicedasfineaspossible1tbspvegetableoil

1ajíamarillo,seededandfinelysliced1tbspvinegar3sprigsofcilantroorparsley,finelychoppedJuiceof2keylimesSalt

Makes1½cupsTip:Foravariation,add1cupofradishesinfinejulienneSALSACRUDADEROCOTO

Seed, devein and dice rocotos. Place in a large bowl ofwaterwith sugar andvinegar.Soak for 5minutes.Drain and rinsewell in 2 changesofwater.Addvegetableoil,keylimejuice,choppedscallionsandsaltandpeppertotaste.Mixwellandserveasacondiment.

2largeredrocotos¼cupsugar¼cupvinegar1tbspvegetableoil4scallions,whitepartonly,veryfinelychoppedJuiceof1keylimeSaltandpepper

SALSADEAJÍ&CEBOLLACHINA

Mixallingredientsthoroughlyinasmallbowl.Serveasacondimentordippingsauceforanticuchos.Cilantrocanalsobeusedwith,orasasubstitute for, thescallions.

1cupajíamarillopaste1tbspoliveoil2scallions,greenpartonly,veryfinelychoppedJuiceof1keylimeSaltandpepper

MARINADES

BEEFHEARTANTICUCHOPreparemarinade bymixing all the ingredients. Alternately, youmay use themarinadeforthetenderloinanticuchowithwonderfulresults.

½cuplightvinegar1-2tbspajípancapaste¼tspvegetableoilSalt

CHICKENANTICUCHO

Preparemarinadebymixingalltheingredients.2clovesofgarlic,minced1tbspajíamarillopaste1tbspvegetableoil1tspdriedoreganoFreshlygroundpepperPinchcumin

CHICKENLIVERANTICUCHO

Preparemarinadebymixingalltheingredients.1tbspajípancapaste1tspvinegar2bayleaves½tspdriedoregano1tbspvegetableoilPinchofcumin

TENDERLOINANTICUCHO

Peelgingerrootwithasharpknifeandblendallingredientsinafoodprocessor.

1cupajípancapaste3clovesofgarlic1pieceoffreshgingerroot(approx¾in)½tspcumin6tbspvinegar2tbspsoysauce1tbspsalt

Tip:Foravariation,add1cupofradishesinfinejulienne

Desserts

CANUTOSCROCANTESDEQUINUACONMANJARDELÚCUMA

Thisdessert isoneof the few thathasbeenon thedessertmenuof theHuacaPucllana since the inauguration of the restaurant. It has undergone severalchanges until finally becoming a classic dessert. This recipe was created bypastrychefAndreaMassaro.


Forthecanutodough9tbsp(125g)unsaltedbutter9tbsp(125g)whitesugar½cup(185g)sugarsyrup1cup(125g)plainflourSalttotaste½cup(100g)boiledquinua

Forthelúcumamanjarblanco11/3cups(300g)lúcumapulp11/3cups(300g)manjarblanco

GarnishChocolatesauceStrawberriesFreshaguaymantosPreparation

To make the dough In a saucepan, place the butter, sugar and sugar syrup(almibar)andbringtoamediumboiluntilallthesugarhasdissolved.Removefrom heat, add the flour and mix well. With a spoon, make 4-inch (10-centimeter)disksofdoughonanon-stickbakingsheetandsprinklethequinuaoneachcircle.

Previouslyheatovento350ºF(180ºC).Bakethedisksuntiltheyaregolden.Whilestillveryhot,useasmall tube(ordowel) tohelpshape themintopipe-shaped“canutos”.

TomakethelúcumamanjarblancoPutthelúcumapulpandthemanjarblancothroughtheblender,thenstrain.Chillinrefrigeratorfor1hour.

Fillapastrysleevewiththelúcumamanjarblancoandfillthecanutos.Servewithchocolatesauce,strawberriesandfreshaguaymantos.

Tip:Itisbesttoputthisdesserttogetherwhilethelúcumamanjarblancoiscoldandserveimmediately.

CHOCOLATENARANJILLO,CHIRIMOYA-LIMÓN,PISCOY

ROCOTO

IvánKisicsays“Thisdessertplaysonstrongflavorswhereeachingredienthasan independent treatment and flavor. The game is to try one of each, then 2togetherfollowedbythreetogetheruntilyoutryallfourflavorstogetheronthespoon.Youshouldbeable todistinguisheach individual flavoronyourpalatewithout one annulling any of the others. The harmonious predominant flavorsare: rocoto – spicy; Pisco – pure aromatic alcohol; chocolate – bitter darkchocolateandchirimoya(custardapple)andkeylime–citricandfruity”.


ThePeruvianchocolateganache11/3cups(300ml)freshcream7oz(200g)darkchocolate3½oz(100g)64%Peruviandarkchocolate7tbsp(100g)unsaltedbutter

The1615Piscogelatin1½leavesofunflavoredgelatin½cup1615Pisco¼cupwarmwater2tbspof50%syrup

The50%syrup2tbsp(30ml)water1/3cup(60g)whitesugar

Therocotonougat1lb(500g)ofrocotoflesh(from4rocotos)3tsp(25g)isomalt½cup(100g)whitesugar½vanillabean

Thechirimoya(custardapple)andkeylimeicecream22/3cups(625ml)freshmilkScant2/3cup(118g)whitesugar77.5ml(62g)liquidglucose2gicecreamstabilizer2leavesofunflavoredgelatin1/3cup(80ml)keylimejuice13oz(350g)ofchirimoya(custardapple)flesh

Preparation

To prepare the ganache Put the fresh cream in a saucepan and allow to heatwithoutcomingtoaboil.Removefromtheheat.Chopupthechocolateandaddto thehot cream.Stir continuouslyuntil completelyblended.Stir in thebuttermixingwelluntilyouhaveaverysmooth,creamyconsistency.

Toprepare thePiscogelatinMake50%syrupbyputting thewater and sugartogetherinasaucepanandbringingtoaboil.Reducetheheatandsimmeruntilyouhave lightcoloredsyrup.Rehydrate thegelatinbydissolving the leaves inwarmwater.AddthePiscoandthesyrupthenleavetosetintherefrigerator.

To prepare the rocoto nougat Remove the membranes and seeds from therocotos.Blanch4timesinboilingwaterthenremovetheskinandblend.Strain.Mixtheremainingpastewiththesugar,isomaltandvanilla.Cookoverlowheatuntilthemixtureisreducedby50%.Spreadonasilpatanddryfor10minutesina175ºF(80ºC)preheatedoven.Removefromtheovenandshapeintoatuliporotherdesiredshape.

TopreparetheicecreamPlacethemilk,sugar,glucoseandicecreamstabilizerin a saucepan and bring to a boil.Remove from the heat and add the gelatin.Leavetocool.Mixthechirimoya(custardapple)fleshwiththekeylime juice.Mixbothpreparations andblend.Place themixture in the ice creammachine.Setaside.

ToservePlaceaspoonfulofganacheonaplatewithacircularmotion.Ontopofthatplaceaballoficecream.ArrangethePiscogelatinanduseatulipmadeofrocotonougattodecorate.

COCADA



3freshcoconuts

Coconutmilkfromthe3coconuts4¼cups(840g)whitesugar5eggs1tbsp(15g)unsaltedbutter

Topreparetheegg-yolkmanjarblancosauce(makes1liter)2cansofcondensedmilk2cansofevaporatedmilk10lightlybeateneggyolks

Preparation

Removethecoconutmilkthenpeel,cutupandgratethecoconuts.Tomakethesyrup,placethegratedcoconutalongwiththecoconutmilkand

the sugar ina saucepanandcookuntil almost allof thewaterhasevaporated,finallyaddthebutter.Removefromthesaucepanandplaceinabowl.

Onebyone,addtheeggs,mixingwellfollowingeachaddition.Thisshouldbedoneasquicklyaspossiblesoastoavoidtheeggs’cookinginlumpsbeforetheyarethoroughlymixedin.

Placethemixtureinagreasedheatresistantglasscakemoldabout8x16in(20x40cm)andbakeat275ºF(135ºC)untilgolden,approximately40minutes.

ToserveTakecarewhencuttingasthisdessertisquitefragile.The cocada can either be eaten alone or servedwith the egg-yolkmanjar

blancosaucedrizzledoverit.

Topreparetheegg-yolkmanjarblancosaucePlace theevaporatedandcondensedmilks in aheavy saucepanandcookovermedium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the mixture changesconsistency.Whenyoucanseethebottomofthepan,removefromheat,letcoolslightlyandadd thebeateneggyolks.Return to lowheatandcook fora littlewhilelongerstillstirringcontinually.Removefromheat.Coolandserve.

“ELCLÁSICO”MAZAMORRAMORADAARROZCONLECHE

Coque Ossio is Marisa Guiulfo’s son and another of Lima’s finest chefs.SchooledandtrainedintheU.S.andEurope,hehasbeenat theCenterof thePeruvianCuisine/fusion revolutions since itbeganoveradecadeago.HeandRafaelOsterling–hissous-chefatthattime-madeofAmbrosiathetoprestaurantinPeru.Inthisvolumeofthe“ArtofPeruvianCuisine”hegivesusmanyofthetraditionalrecipesthatweweren’tabletoincludeinBookI.HehasrestaurantsinandaroundLimaandinCusco.


Mazamorramorada1quince1smallpineapple1largeapple

1wholestickofcinnamon3cloves2lbs(1kg)maízmorado(purplecornonthecob)1¾oz(50g)driedapricots1¾oz(50g)plumsorpeaches1¾oz(50g)prunes1¾oz(50g)driedpeaches1½cupswhitegranulatedsugar7/8cup(100g)cornstarchorsweetpotatoflourGroundcinnamonJuiceof2keylimes

Arrozconleche,seethelink

PreparationToprepare theMazamorramoradaThenight beforemaking this recipe, soakthedriedfruitinwaterovernight.

Peelthequince,pineappleandtheapple.Inalargesaucepan,boilthepurplecornonthecobandthefruitskinswith

the cinnamon stick and cloves in about 3 liters of water. Boil for about 15minutes or until the liquid turns dark purple. Strain the liquid and set aside.Separate a smallquantity in abowl (about2 cups), allowing it to cool.Addafurther2 litersoffreshwater to thecornandbringtoaboil thenleaveboilingjust until the kernels start bursting.Throwaway the corn and strain the liquidoncemoreusingaveryfine-meshstrainer.

Cut the pineapple, the apple and the quince in small cubes.Add the driedfruit(thatisstillsoakinginwater)tothepurpleliquidandthenaddthesugarandthe diced fruit. Boil the mixture. In a separate bowl, thoroughly mix thecornstarchorsweetpotatoflourinthesmallquantityofnowcoolpurpleliquidthat you originally set aside, leaving no lumps, then add to the fruit mixture,stirringwhileadding.

Lower the heat and cook, stirringwith awooden spoon, until themixturestarts thickening, about 15 to 20minutes. Add the key lime juice, also whilestirring,thenremovefromtheheat.

ToserveServeinsoupplatesorindividualglassesandallowtocool.Decoratewithasprinklingofgroundcinnamon.

Note:Thisdessert shouldbeservedcool,notcold. It shouldn’tbe refrigeratedbeforeservingasthesurfacehasatendencytocrack.

FRESASALMAÍZMORADO



2lbs(1k)purplecornonthecob½lb(250g)quince(s)½lb(250g)freshpineapple½lb(250g)apples(criollaorcookingapples)1stickcinnamon5cloves4¼quarts(4liters)water1½lb(700g)whitesugar1pint(500g)freshstrawberries1tspspearmint,cutinjulienne

Forthechoclo(freshcorn)ice-cream5earsoffreshcorn2tbspcoconutmilk¾cupfreshmilk1¾cupsgranulatedsugar1cupfreshcream5eggyolks

Forthechulpicornpraline3½oz(100g)parchedchulpicorn1cup(200g)whitesugar7tbsp(100ml)water1¾oz(50g)cornsyrup

Forthecornbread2cups(400g)plainflour1½cups(240g)whitecornmealor12/3(240g)cupspolenta½cup(100g)whitesugar2tsp(9g)bakingpowderApinch(1g)ofsalt8½tbsp(125ml)vegetableoil2cups(480ml)freshmilk32/3tsp(18ml)whitevinegar2eggs

Preparation

Placethepurplecorn,quince(s),pineapple,apples,cinnamonandclovesinapotandbringtoaboil.Letboiluntiltheliquidhasreducedbutjustbeforethecornkernelsbegintoburst(iftheybursttheliquidbecomescloudy).

Strain and add the sugar. Make a light syrup in which to sauté thestrawberries.Addthespearmint.

For the fresh corn ice-cream Remove the kernels of corn from the cob, thencookwith thecoconutmilk, freshmilkandgranulatedsugar.Stircontinuouslyuntilthecorniscooked(between10and12minutes)thenputmixturethroughblender. Pass mixture through a fine-mesh sieve collecting as much liquid aspossible;discardthesolidresidues.Combinethestrainedliquidmixturewiththefreshcreamandheatgradually.Removefromtheheat.

Inaseparatebowl,mixtheeggyolksthenaddthecorn-creammixture.Mixwell.

Start cooking the mixture in a double boiler, stirring carefully.When themixture has thickened strain once again, let cool, then place in the ice-creammakeruntilfrozen(about30minutes).

ForthepralinePlacethesugarinasaucepantogetherwiththecornsyrupandthe water. Bring to a boil then lower the heat and simmer until you obtain agolden caramel sauce. Add all of the parched corn. Mix together well thenspreadoutonasilpatandleavetocool.Whenithashardened,breakthepraline

andcutintosmallpieces.

For thecornbreadButterandflourabakingpanapproximately9x13x2 in(23x33x5cms)andsetaside.Makethebuttermilkbymixingthefreshmilkwith thewhitevinegarandsetaside forabout10minutes.Preheat theoven to375ºF(190ºC).

Mix together all of the dry ingredients. Separately,mix together all of theliquidsincludingtheeggs.Gentlymixthedryingredientswiththeliquidsuntiltheyarejustmoist,donotovermix.

Placethemixtureinthebakingpanandcookintheovenfor15minutesoruntilfirmtothetouch.

ToservePlacearoundofcornbreadinthemiddleofadinnerplatethencarefullyarrangethestrawberriesinarownexttothebread.Placeaballoficecreamontopofthecornbreadandsprinklewiththesmallpiecesofpraline.Finally,usethepurplecornsyruptodrizzleoverthestrawberries.

KINKONAMIESTILO

These desserts come from the boundless and delicious imagination of SandraPierantoniwho,withherhusbandUgoPlevisani,are thedrivingandcreativeforcebehindLima’s famousLaTrattoria restaurants. Sandra is agood friendsincewewereinourteens,andtodayisPeru’sdessertqueen.Thereisanage-oldsagatobetoldaboutSandraandthekinkondessert.Thankfully,wecanlayitalltorestinthehomeportofthisdeliciousrecipe.


1recipepuffpastrydough•Manjarblanco

ApricotjamIcing(confectioner’s)sugar

Forthepuffpastry3½oz(100g)unsaltedbutter4cupsplainflour2½tbspsalt1cupwater11oz(300g)unsaltedbutter,coldandcutinto1cmcubes

Preparation

TomakethepuffpastryStep1:Meltthe3½oz(100g)ofunsaltedbutteroververylowheat.Itshouldbeliquidandwarmtothetouch.Usingthemixer,placethemeltedbutterinthemixingbowlalongwiththeflour,saltandwater.Beatatmediumspeedfor1minute.Assoonastheingredientsbegintoformaballandcomeawayfromthesidesofthebowl,stopbeating.Addthecubesofbutterandmixonhighspeedfor15seconds.Youshouldbeabletoseethepiecesofbutterspreadthroughoutthedough.

Step2:Removethedoughfromthemixerand,usingarollingpin,rolloutthedough,formingarectangleapproximately8x10in(20x25cm)and1in(2.5cm)thick.Makesurethatthepiecesofbutterareevenlydistributedthroughoutthedough.Coverthedoughinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast12hours.Removethedoughfromtherefrigeratorandplaceonaflouredsurface,sothatitdoesnotstick.Forma10x23in(25x60cm)rectangleofuniformthickness.Whenformingtherectangle,youshouldstillbeabletoseethepiecesofbutter.Ifthedoughbecomestoosoft,refrigerateforanadditional15minutes.Takethesmallersidesoftherectangleandfoldtowardsthemiddle.Thetwosidesshouldmeetinthemiddlebutnotoverlap.Placeonehalfontopoftheother.Turnthedougharoundsothattheopenseamistotherightandthefoldedsidetotheleft.This process is called “folding the book”.Roll out “the book” oncemore andmake another 10 x 23 in (25 x 60 cm) rectangle which should be folded asbefore.Usingyourfingers,make2littleholes in thedoughsoas torememberthatithasbeenfoldedtwice.Refrigerateforatleastanadditional12to24hoursifitisnotgoingtobeusedimmediately.

Step3:Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator.Rollout“thebook”onceagain

andmakea10x23 in (25x60cm) rectangle.Repeat the “folding thebook”process.Repeat thisoperationforafourth time. It isadvisable tomake4 littleholesinthedoughsoastorememberthatithasbeenfolded4times.Leaveintherefrigeratorfor2hours.Thedoughisnowreadytobeused.Ifitisnotgoingtobeused immediately, itcanbefrozenuntilneeded.In thiscase, transfer thefrozendoughfromthefreezercompartmenttotherefrigeratorandwaituntilitismanageabletobeusedaspuffpastry.

To put the Kin Kon together Divide the puff pastry in two. Keep half in therefrigeratororfreezertouselater.Rolloutthepastryandmakea6x12in(15x30cm)rectangle.Placeasilpatinyourbakingsheetandputthepastryontopofthis.Prickwithaforkandrefrigerateforonehour.Pre-heatyourovento400ºF(or200ºC)andbakethepastryfor15to20minutesoruntilgolden.Cutinto2x4 in (5x10cm) rectangles.Evenup theedges.Place themanjarblanco in apastrysleeveandfilloneoftherectangleswithrosettesofmanjarblanco.Coverwithanotherlayerofpastryandcoverthiswithapricotjam.Repeatthisprocessuntilyouhave3double layersofpastry.Sprinklewith icing(powdered)sugarandusemanjarblancotodecorate.

LIMÓNDECONVENTOCONRECUERDOSDEPIEDELIMON

CRUST

JamesBerckemeyerisafinerepresentativeofthenewPeruviangastronomy.HestudiedatLeCordonBleuPerúandtheItalianCulinaryInstituteforForeigners(ICIF).Heisamemberoftheyounggenerationofavant-gardechefsinLima.


Preliminarystep1¼cups(300ml)freshmilk3½oz(100g)almonds

Topreparethekeylimes8largekeylimes12/3cups(400ml)water1cup(200g)whitesugar

Topreparethepiefilling114-ozcancondensedmilk1/4cupkeylimejuice2eggs

Topreparethemanjarblancofoam1cup(150g)manjarblanco31/2tbsp(50g)freshcream1teaspoonagaragarpowder1siphonchargercartridge

TopreparethealmondfoamThealmond-infusedmilk(above)1½tsp(4g)lecithinpowder

PreparationPreliminary stepHeat the freshmilk until it boils.Remove from the heat andaddthewholealmondsandleavetoinfusefor24hours.

TopreparethekeylimesCleanthekeylimeswiththehelpofamelonballer.Removethecontentsofthekeylimesincludingasmuchaspossibleoftheinnerwhitepith(whichisbitter)throughone single opening.When cleaned, cook the sixwhole peels inwaterover lowheat for2hours.Change thewater thenplace thekey limes in freshwateralongwiththesugarfor4hours.

TopreparethepiefillingMixthecondensedmilk,keylimejuiceandeggsandthencookindoubleboileruntilthemixturereachesamousse-likeconsistency.

TopreparethemanjarblancofoamFirst,separate2tbspofthecreamandputthetspofagaragarinittosoakforabout15minutes.Mixtogetherthemanjarblancoandtherestofthefreshcreaminasaucepanandheat.Whenthemixturereaches176ºF(80ºC),addtheagaragarsoakedincream.Mixwell,makingsurethe agar agar is dissolved. Place in a siphon and insert the recharge cartridge.Thesiphonshouldbekepthotinpanofhotwateruntilneeded.

To prepare the almond foam Remove the almonds from themilk. Just beforeserving,addthelecithintotheinfusedmilkanduseamixertoincorporateair.

To serve Place some of themanjar blanco on a plate then place some of thealmondfoamontop.Fill thekeylimeswiththelemonpiefillingandplaceontopofthemanjarblanco.

MAMEY-QUESO“CHOLEMBERT”,TOQUESDEMOSTAZA

DiegoMuñoz tells us: “this is a kind of tribute to a good Peruvian cheese –goat’smilk cheese, like the French one– and I present it withmamey fruit inheavy syrup with black pepper aroma, and, drawing out those flavors, molleberrygelatinandafewyoungmustardandoracheleaves,Margaritacookiesinadifferentpresentationandajíamarillo-mustardjelly.”


Forthemameyinheavysyrup1wholemamey,1½lb(700g)1cup(200g)whitesugar14tbsp(200g)water2tsp(10g)crushedblackpepper

1vacuumpackbag

Forthecrumbledcookies4Margaritavanillacookies1tsp(5g)cocoabutter

FortheCholembertcheese3½oz(100g)Cholembertcheese(nottooripe)orsubstitutecamembert

Forthepinkpeppergelatin7tbsp(100ml)water2tbsp(30g)whitesugar2tsp(10g)finelycrusheddriedredmolleberries(Peruvianpinkpepper)1¼tspgranulatedgelatinor2leavesofgelatin(5geach)

Fortheajíamarillo-mustardjelly2tbsp(30g)ajíamarillo,finelychopped1scanttbsp(10g)whitesugarPinchofsalt3½tbsp(50ml)water1tsp(5g)old-fashionedFrench(Meaux)mustardwithcrushedseeds

Others20tenderleavesofcurlymustard20leavesoforache(Atriplexpatula)

Preparation

Make the pepper-infused heavy syrup by putting the water and sugar in asaucepanwiththecrushedblackpepperandbringingtoaboil.Turnofftheheat.Donotstir.Whencool,strain.Cutthepeeledmamey into12uniformslices,3slicesperperson.Placetheslicesofmameyinavacuumpackbagtogetherwiththepeppersyrupandcookat185ºF (85ºC) for1½hours in a combination-oven-steameror in adoubleboiler.Letthebagcool.

Crushorprocessthebiscuits.Heatthecocoabutterandmixwiththecrushedcookies.Mixthebutterandcookiesuntiltheylooklikecoarsesand.

Cutthecheeseinto12wedges.Keepatroomtemperaturesothatitisnottoocoldwhenserved.

TomakethePeruvianredpeppergelatin,firstput theleavesofgelatinorgranulatedgelatintosoftenin2tbspofthewater.Putthesugar,theremaining5tbsp of water and the well-ground Peruvian red pepper (molle) berries in asaucepan.Boil.Add the softenedgelatinand stiruntil thegelatin isdissolved.Strain.Leaveintherefrigeratortoset.

Roasttheajíesamarillosoveranopenflameandpeel.Cutinbrunoisandblanchonceagain.Mixthiswiththesugar,waterandapinchofsalt.Cookuntilreachingthejellystage.Dipaspoonintotheboilingjelly.Removeandallowthejuice todrip from thesideof thespoon.As the jellingpointnears, itwilldripfroma tippedspoon in twodrops¼to½inchapart.When the jellingpoint isreachedthetwodropswillruntogetheranddropoffinonesheet.Alternativelyacandy thermometermay be used; the temperature should reach 200º to 222ºF(93.3ºto105.5ºC).

Mixthehotjellywiththeold-fashionedmustardwhichhascrushedmustardseedsinit.Refrigerate.

Wash themustardandorache leaveswell, dry them,andkeep them in therefrigerator.

Finishingandpresentation

Make a linear strokeon the platewith the ají amarillo-mustard jelly.Grill themameyslicesononeside so that theyarewarmandcaramelizedon that side.Leavetocool.Arrange3wedgesofcheeseontopoftheajíamarillojellyandontopofthis,thegrilledslicesofmamey.Make3“stones”ofpepperjellyinorderof largest tosmallest.Put thegelatinatoneendof theplate.Sprinklewith thecrushedcookiemixture.Place3 leaveseachofmustardandoforacheoneachplate.

HowtoeatServe with a fork and a spoon. Mix the cheese with the grilled mamey andmustardleaves.

MILHOJASDECHOCOLATECROCANTE



Forthechocolatenougatine½cup(120g)butter2½tbsp(50g)glucose½cup(50g)freshmilk¾cup(150g)whitesugar2tbsp(15g)cocoa1tbsppectin

Forthepistachiopraline7oz(200g)shelledandpeeledpistachionuts1cup(200g)whitesugar

Forthelightpistachiocream6bananas1cup(250ml)freshmilk¼cup(50g)whitesugar4eggyolksScant3tbsp(26g)all-purposeflour½oz(16g)butter7/8cup(200ml)freshcream2leavesgelatin2oz(60g)pistachiopraline

Forthechocolatesauce½cup(125g)freshmilk½cup(125g)freshcream½lb(250g)darkchocolate¼cup(50g)whitesugar1scanttbsp(13g)butter

Forthemanjarblancoicecream12/3cups(400g)manjarblanco1½cups(360g)freshmilk1½cups(360g)freshcream6eggyolks½cup(100g)whitesugar

Fortherumhoney1½cups(300g)whitesugar5tbsp(100g)glucose12/3cups(400ml)rum

PreparationTo make the chocolate nougatine Heat the butter, milk and glucose.Mix thesugar, cocoaandpectinandblendwith themilkmixture.Heatuntil it reaches220ºF(105ºC).Placethisonasilpatandspreadoutwithaspatulathencookfor15minutesinanovenat330ºF(165ºC)withaslowfan.Whilestillhot,cutinto1½x3in(4x8cm)rectangles.

TomakethepistachiopralineMakeaclearcaramelsaucebyplacingthesugarinasaucepanovermediumheatandheatinguntilallthesugarhasmelted.Oncethiscomestoaboil, letbubbleuntil themixtureturnsgoldenbrown.Placethepistachiosonasilpatandpourthecaramelsauceoverthem.Whencold,breakintopiecesandthenblend.

TopreparethelightpistachiocreamPlacetheeggyolksinabowltogetherwiththesugarandwhiskuntilpale.Addtheflour.Inaseparatebowl,soakthegelatin

in2tbspofcoldwater.Heatthemilk.Whenhot,incorporatetheeggyolksandcook for 3minutes.When ready, stir in the butter and the soakedgelatin.Letcool.

Whiskthefreshcreamuntilitreachesthetextureofyoghurtandincorporatethepistachiopraline.Thenmixthepistachiocreamwiththefreshcreamandpralineandplacethisinasleevewitharectangularnozzle.

Tomake the chocolate sauceHeat themilk, fresh cream and sugar. Place thechocolateinabowlandincorporatethehotmilkmixture.Mixwelluntilasauceisformedthenaddthebutter.

TomakethemanjarblancoicecreamPlacethemanjarblanco,milkandfreshcreaminasaucepanandheat.Inaseparatebowl,placetheeggyolksandsugarandbeatuntiltheyolksturnpale.Addthemilktotheeggyolkmixturesandheatwhile stirring to 185ºF (85ºC) or until it coats the back of a spoon. Freeze inprofessional or home ice cream machine until proper consistency andtemperaturearereached.

TopreparetherumhoneyLeavethepreparationofthebananasrightuntiljustbeforeserving.

Makeaclearcaramelsauceusingthesugar(asabove).Whenitisready,deglazepanwiththerum.Removefromtheheatwhenallofthecaramelhasdissolved.

Cutthebananasintoslicesthesamesizeasthenougatandplacetheminafryingpanwiththerumhoney.Cookfor7minutesoruntiltheyaresoftbutstillwhole.

ToservePlaceapieceof rum-glazedbananaon topofapieceofchocolatenougatandadd some pistachio cream. Put another piece of nougat on top and thenmorebanana and cream. Repeat this operation. Place the ice cream on top of aspoonfulofpistachiopralineandusethechocolatesaucetodecorate.

SUSPIRODELIMEÑA

DECHIRIMOYAIngredients(Serves4)

1cupNestlécondensedmilk1canevaporatedmilk6eggyolksatroomtemperature4eggwhitesatroomtemperature1cupofportwine1½cupsofwhitesugarGroundcinnamonfordecoration11oz(300g)ofchirimoya(Annonacherimola)flesh,peeled,seeds

removed,soakedinthejuiceof2oranges

PreparationIn a heavy saucepan, mix the two milks and cook over low heat movingconstantlytoavoidburning(whichwillruintheflavor).Cookuntilyoucanseethebottomofthepan.Removefromtheheat,letcoolalittle.Incorporatetheeggyolksoneatatime,stirringwelltoavoidtheircooking.

Strainthesegmentsofcustardapple(theorangejuicepreventsthecustardapplefromdiscoloringandhighlightstheflavor)andaddthemtothemixture.

Half fill individualglasseswith themixtureor forma layer in abutteredheatproofglassdishandrefrigerate.

Heattheportwinewiththesugaruntilitthickensandwhenalittledroppedintoacupofcoldwaterformsasoftball.Inacleanandverydrybowl,beattheegg whites and when thoroughly beaten start adding the hot Port syrup in adrizzlecontinuing tobeat themixturesoas to formastiffmeringue.Carryonbeatinguntilthemixingbowliscoldandthemeringueisalmostsolid.

Place the meringue in a pastry sleeve with a star-shaped nozzle anddecorate the individual glasses or the custard apple (chirimoya) suspiroovenproofglassdish.


DECHOCOLATEIngredients(Serves4)

1cupNestlécondensedmilk1canevaporatedmilk6eggyolksatroomtemperature4eggwhitesatroomtemperature1cupofportwine

1½cupsofwhitesugar7oz(200g)darkchocolate(goodquality)Groundcinnamonfordecoration

Preparation

Placethechocolateinasmallheavysaucepanandheatoververylowheatuntilitmeltsandbecomescreamy.Itisveryeasytoburnchocolatesobecareful.

In a heavy saucepan,mix the twomilks and cook over lowheatmovingconstantlytoavoidburning(whichwillruintheflavor).Letcookuntilyoucanseethebottomofthepan.Removefromtheheatletcoolalittle.Incorporatetheegg yolks one at a time, stirringwell to avoid their cooking. Add themeltedchocolateandmixwell.Halffillindividualglasseswiththechocolatemixtureorformalayerinabutteredheatproofglassdish.

Mixtheportandsugartogetherinasaucepanandheatuntilitthickensandalittledroppedinacupofcoldwaterformsasoftball.Inacleanandverydrybowl,beattheeggwhitesandwhenthoroughlybeaten,startaddingthehotportwinesyrupinadrizzlecontinuingtobeatthemixturetoformastiffmeringue.Carryonbeatinguntilthemixingbowliscoldandthemeringueisalmostsolid.

Place the meringue in a pastry sleeve with a star-shaped nozzle anddecoratetheindividualglassesorthechocolatelayerintheglassdish.


DELÚCUMAIngredients(Serves4)

1cupNestlécondensedmilk1canevaporatedmilk6eggyolksatroomtemperature4eggwhitesatroomtemperature1cupofportwine

1½cupsofwhitesugar1½cupsofpreparedlúcuma(Pouterialucuma)flesh(3freshlucumas)¾cupofmilkGroundcinnamonfordecoration

Preparation

TopreparethelúcumaRemovethefleshfrom3freshlúcumaandblendwith¾cupofmilk,thenstrain.Thiswillgiveyou1½cupsoflúcumapurée.

In a heavy saucepan,mix the twomilks and cook over lowheatmovingconstantlytoavoidburning(whichwillruintheflavor).Letcookuntilyoucanseethebottomofthepan.Removefromtheheatletcoolalittle.Incorporatetheeggyolksoneata time,stirringwell toavoid theircooking in lumps.Addthelúcumapurée,mixingwell.Halffillindividualglasseswiththelúcumamixtureorformalayerinabutteredheatproofglassdish.

Mixtheportandsugartogetherinasaucepanandheatuntilitthickensand,whendroppedinacupofcoldwaterthemixformsasoftball.

In a clean and very dry bowl, beat the eggwhites andwhen thoroughlybeatenstartaddingthehotPortsyrupinadrizzlecontinuingtobeatthemixturesoastoformastiffmeringue.Carryonbeatinguntilthemixingbowliscoldandthemeringueisalmostsolid.

Place the meringue in a pastry sleeve with a star-shaped nozzle anddecorate the individualglassesor the lúcumasuspiro in theheatresistantglassdish.


TORTATRUFADECHOCOLATEYLÚCUMA

These desserts come from the boundless and delicious imagination of SandraPierantoniwho,withherhusbandUgoPlevisani,are thedrivingandcreativeforcebehindLima’s famousLaTrattoria restaurants. Sandra is agood friendsincewewereinourteens,andtodayisPeru’sdessertqueen.


Forthechocolatebase7oz(100g)unsaltedbutter6¾oz(190g)darkchocolate56%cacao¾tspofespressocoffee1½tbspofvanillaessence5eggs,separated1/3cuplightbrownsugar1/8tspsalt

Forthelúcumamousselayer½cupsugar18-ozpackageofcreamcheese1cupcondensedmilk2cupslúcumapurée(4kgoffreshlúcuma)½tspvanillaessence4leavesofgelatin

Forthechocolatemousse2tbspcocoapowder5tsphotwater6¾oz(190g)darkchocolate1½cupsfreshheavycream¼cupwhitesugar1/8tspsalt

Forthechocolatewhippedcream1cupfreshheavycream7oz(200g)darkchocolate1tbspwhitesugar

PreparationAdjust the oven rack to themiddle of the oven andpreheat to 350ºF (180ºC).Buttera9”roundspringformcakepanandlinethebottomwithcookingfoilinordertofacilitateremovingthebottomofthepan.

Toprepare the lúcumapuréeRemove the flesh from4kilosof fresh lúcumasandblend,thenstrain.Thiswillgiveyou2cupsoflúcumapurée.Thefleshmayalsobepurchasedcleanedandfrozeninstores.

To make the chocolate base In a microwave, melt the butter, chocolate andcoffee,mixingeveryminuteinorderforthemixturetomeltwithoutburning.Setasidetocool.Oncecool,addtheeggyolksandvanillaessence,mixwell.Withamixerandinacleanandverydrybowl,whisktheeggwhitesuntilfoamy.Addthesugarinaconstantflowwhilebeatingthenaddthesalt.Foldtheeggwhitesintothechocolatemixturethenmixwellwiththehandwhisk.Pourthemixtureintopreparedpanandgentlyknockthepanonthetabletoremoveanybubbles.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until the cake is ready or until a skewer insertedcomesoutclean.Whenthecakecollapses,don’tworry.Withthepalmofyour

handlevelandleavethetopflat.Donotremovefrommold.Setaside.

TomakethelúcumamousselayerInthefoodprocessor,blendthesugar,creamcheese and condensedmilk until almost liquid.Add the strained lúcuma fleshand the vanilla. Finally, dissolve the gelatin in coldwater until it looks like ajellyfish.Removetheexcesswaterthenmeltinthemicrowaveandmixintothelúcumacream.Immediatelyspreaduponthechocolatecakebaseandfreezeuntilverysolidandsetasidefortheremaininglayer.

Tomake thechocolatemousse layerWith themixer anda cleanandverydrymixing bowl,whisk the creamwith the sugar and the salt until soft peaks areformed.Mixthecocoawiththehotwatertodissolve.Separatelymeltthedarkchocolate and set aside. Beat together the dissolved cocoa with the meltedchocolate thenmixwellwith thewhisked cream and set on top of the frozenlúcumamousse.Onceagain,knockthepanontheedgeofatableorcountertoremoveanybubbles.Freeze.

TomakethechocolatewhippedcreamScaldthecreamthenremovefromtheheat.Addthedarkchocolateandsugar.Letcoolintherefrigerator,whensolid,beatinthemixer.Donotoverbeat.Fillapastrysleeveandkeepinrefrigeratortodecoratejustbeforeserving.

ToserveRemovethedessertfromthemoldwhilestillfrozentopreventdamaging.Opentheclipandremovetheoutsidering.Turnupsidedownandremovethecookingfoilthenplaceonacakeservingplate.Decoratewithchocolatewhippedcreamandchocolatecurls.Placeintherefrigeratoruntilitissoftenoughtobecut.

SouthAmericanSpecialtyFoodStoresorIngredientsSources

London

FinaEstampaRestaurant150-152TooleyStreet,London,SE12TUTel:(44-871)971-6748,(44-207)403-1342

SelfridgesFoodHall400OxfordStreet,London,W1A1ABTel:0800123-400SolAndinoServicesUKltd187OldKentRoad,London,SE15NATel:(44-207)394-9203Holland&Barret73KingsRoad,Chelsea,LondonSW34NXTel:(207)0352-4130

http://www.hollandandbarret.comNewYorkDean&DeLuca–SohoStore

560BroadwayatPrinceStreetTel:(212)226-6800

Macy’sHeraldSquare,Broadwayat34thStreetTel:(212)695-4400Zabar’s

2245Broadwayat80thStreetTel:(212)787-2000

LosAngelesElCamagueyMeatMarket10925VeniceBlvd.,WestLosAngeles,CA90034Tel:(310)839-4037

ContinentalGourmet

12921PrairieAveHawthorne,CA90250Tel.(310)676-5444http://continentalgourmetmarket.com/

VallartaSupermarkets

3425WhittierBlvdLosAngeles,CA90023BoyleHeightsTel.(323)980-4400www.vallartasupermarket.com

SanFrancisco

LaPalmaMexicatessen(Mexican&LatinAmericanFood)288424thStreetTel:(415)647-1500LaMissionMarket

2097MissionStSanFrancisco,CA94110b/t17thSt&16thStTel.(415)552-5656

EvergreenSupermarket

2539MissionSt

SanFrancisco,CA94110b/t21stSt&22ndStTel.(415)641-4506

CasaLucasMarket

293424thStSanFrancisco,CA94110b/tFloridaSt&AlabamaStTel.(415)826-4334

SouthFloridaLaTiendaHispanaP.O.Box833302,Miami,FL33283Tel:(305)720-7798www.latiendahispana.com

LaTiendita

7971SW40thStMiami,FL33155Tel.(305)266-6415

LaTienditaII40216thSt.MiamiBeachTel:(305)672-2162LaBodegaPeruana12625SW134Court,MiamiFL33186Tel./Fax:(305)408-8973Cell:(305)383-7600

ElBodegón6128S.CongressAv.Lantana,FLTel:(561)967-7273

ElBodegónGrocery4704ForestHillBlvd.WestPalmBeachTel:(561)967-2121/(561)966-6849

ElMarket7823PineBlvd.PembrokePines,FL33024Tel:(954)989-9916

Sylvia’sMarketandDeli

3134NW88thAveSunrise,FL33351Tel.(954)572-7460

PeruvianBodegaKonakai

2664NorthUniversityDriveSunrise,FL33322Tel.(954)578-3626

WashingtonWarehouseInternationalMarket3815A&GeorgeMasonDr.,FallsChurch.Tel:(703)845-2608

Chicago

ElMercaditoHispanoGrocery495EldenStreet,HerndonTel:(703)435-5144

Chicago

ElCóndor

2349NMilwaukeeAveChicago,IL60647

LoganSquareTel.(773)252-5112www.elcondorchicago.com

Perumex

5217WDiverseyAve

5217WDiverseyAveChicago,IL60639Tel.(773)417-7605

DallasFiestaMart

5334RossAveDallas,TX75206LowerGreenvilleTel.(214)887-3000www.fiestamart.com

SanAntonioLasAmericasLatinMarket

6623SanPedroRdSanAntonio,TX78216Tel:(210)3402747http://www.lasamericaslatinmarket.com/

TucsonCandelaRestaurant5845,NorthOracleRoad,AZ85704Tel:(520)407-0111

GeorgiaGuadalajaraSupermarket5730BufordHwy,SuiteNorcrossGA30071Tel:(770)449-4023

MissouriGlobalMarket421NorthKiskwoodRoad,Kirkwood,Mo.63122,StLouis3148351112Tel:(314)835-1112

SpainBodegaLatinaCalleGutierredeCelina18PuebloNuevo,MadridTel:(91)408-4803

BodegaIslaCaribeñaCalleSanAntoniodePadua,5,MadridTel:(91)475-7113

LaBoqueriaRambla,91MercatdelaBoqueria

08001Barcelona(EdificiDirecció,2ªplanta)Tel:(93)318-2584(93)412-1315www.boqueria.info

SaboresLatinoshttp://www.saboreslatinos.es/Madrid

AmazonasProductoslatinosenMadridDirección:Puerto283-286,MercadodeMaravillas.CalleBravoMurillo112.Teléfono:629830459

FranceElInti/LaBoutiquePeruvienne17ruedePicardie75003,ParisTel:0142782582/0951759575www.intiperou.com

SaboraCanela

21rueRichardLenoireParis,11eme.Metro:VoltaireTel:(01)43561764www.saborcanela.com

ElPicaflor9Rue,Lacepede75005,Paris,8emesur25Tel:(01)43310601

LeComptoirduPérou

41RuedelaCroixNivertParis,France75014Tel.(+33)145665008

SwitzerlandAuxSpécialitésdelaPaludPlacePalud91003Lausanne,SuizaTel:+41(0)213126451

GermanyKioskoLatinoAmBurgweiher8-53123,BonnTel:(0228)9783936

MiTierraAmHofgraben3D-65760,EschbornTel:+49(0)171–1457411

UnitedKingdomSolAndino

187OldKentRd

Southwark,London.Tel.(+44)2073949203VivaPeru(ShipstoUKIrelandandEurope)http://www.vivaperu.co.uk/

SomeofthesameChefs’RestaurantsAbroad

Chef/Owner

Restaurant

Address

Telephone

Email

DanielManrique

SegundoMuelleCiudaddePanamá,Panamá(50-7)3919-234/[email protected],Ecuador(59-32)[email protected]

SegundoMuelleQuito,Ecuador(59-32)[email protected]

SegundoMuelleLasPalmasdeGranCanaria,Spain(34-928)[email protected]

GastónAcurioAstrid&GastónSantiagodeChile,Chile(56-2)[email protected]&GastónMadrid,España(34-91)[email protected]&GastónBuenosAires,Argentina(54-11)[email protected]

RestaurantLaMarSanFranciscoCalifornia,USA(415)[email protected]

RestaurantLaMarMéxicoDF,México(52-55)[email protected],Brasil(55-11)[email protected]

[email protected]

JaimePesaqueRest.NunaPuntadelEste,Uruguay(59-8)4277-3088www.nuna.com.uy

JanVanOordtPARUInkasSushi&GrillBuenosAires,Argentina(54-11)4778-3307www.paru.com.ar

RafaelOsterling

LaDespensaBogotá,Colombia(57-1)255-4138www.rafaelosterling.com

Bibliography–SuggestedFurtherReading

Acurio,GastónGastonAcurio,500AñosdeFusionPuntoyComaEditoresS.A.C.(2009)Balbi,MariellaSato’sCooking:Nikkei-StyleFishandSeafoodUniversidaddeSanMartíndePorres(1997)

ChifasinPeruUniversidaddeSanMartíndePorres(1999)

Custer,FelipeAntonioTheArtofPeruvianCuisineFundaciónFelipeAntonioCuster(2007)Hinostroza,GloriaCocinaLimeñaUniversidaddeSanMartíndePorres(1999)Ocampo,TeresaCocinaPeruana–RecetasTradicionalesyPrácticasSED(2004)OlivasWeston,RosarioLaCocinaenelVirreinatodelPerúUniversidaddeSanMartíndePorres(1998)Osterling,RafaelRafael,ElChef,ElRestaurante,LasRecetasEditorialPlaneta(2011)Plevisani,SandraElGranLibrodelPostreUniversidaddeSanMartíndePorresElABCconSandraPlevisaniand100%SandraGrupoInterbank,JacquelineOrjedayQuebecoreditores

NOTE:Thereare10additionalbooksofSandra’sserializedbyElComercioEditoresand4publishedbySupermercadosWong,JyJProyectosEditorialesandQuebecorEditores.Inall,Sandrahaspublished26booksin6years.Rojas-Lombardi,FelipeTheArtofSouthAmericanCookingHarperCollins(1991)SisonPorrasdeDelaGuerra,Josie

ElPerúySusManjaresMastergrafS.A.(1994)Solorzano,FlavioPerualaMesaEditorialAsturias(2010)

CocinaTradicionalPeruanaEditorialSeptiembre(2010)TheAmericanWomen’sLiteraryClubTheAmericanWomen’sLiteraryClubCookbookPacificPressS.A.(1981)Valderrama,MarianoEllibrodeOrodeLasComidasPeruanasPeruReporting(1996)Yimura,RositaTheRositaYimuraCookbookPeruReporting(1995)

Documents

The art of Peruvian cuisine