l

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1

TÉ'TILIS AND CLOTHINGd1151k 1450

MI

Aclûc rt€dgemdtslorgræts

Tne Nblicarion ofrhis b@k h6 ber Nisd bvldls from ùê hùNins orEeietioÉ {iich

]ne Pi$ld RèMi Fud

Tïêb€aæ{of toilNdfn$n !o ùelddon,nd Mlddles Aûaæloaicil Seiêt

tu@ Itmdot'licfm lh. î@M sd'ddùlIi,rddi!:ùu.. 1390- m, (Ùtud.ùbcheNdd,lbibriû$*, \.@ cod.Fm.2644,fl 05r)/ût&rl! MlnfÀsmliqbi2dûi.snuder'ddorh p@nÈd *{b wô-âcèd ba'dBatso Gtor ?t'.tum@ û Atattut MS ùdt 261, 112trtftr.Àa: Gnrù'[d rLdyËiqbrEtubtu.dslædd4q dÈ'èwiô.rù 0rqhft kfid BLÆd tts 10291, t5ô

1

X' IED iE \TAL F INDS FROM TXCAVATIONS I \ LONDON:4

TEXTILES AND CLOTHINGc.1lso-c.14S0

Illisabeth Cro\a4oot, !'rances Pritchard ard Kay Staniland

Irlotogftph,v b,v Ed\çû Bake.Illustrations by Ch.isrina U.win

'I HE BÙ\DEI] II(!\S

@ 1992, 2OOl MNcum ofLndÛr

Al! Nrh^ Rad'nd Eî.Pt I PtaiL d ÙndÙ ruÉtr l'8rr'don

no m(;' thi, $a k m.v br phoboPi.d aotd in J c id $@

oubl,shcd, D.rto6€n inPdbLc ,d:Pæd bmrdct

*;,*d, *;.d.,=?-d*.d in:nvins Ô!bv rnv m'Ù5

wLôour ùe priorP.mn!ôo of th' oPn8hr wnÙ

Fid Pùdisncd l9t2rr.i M.jétYs sntiûnery OItft

Nd .dino. 2001R.Pnntd 2002, 20M

TÀ. Boyd.U lr5, vmdb;dg.

lsBN 0 3î1,3,!o 4

A Mseum ofhndon lubknionM@m oallndon, rnndon \v'L

bndon EC2Y tHNwûs.utu{odôn org.ùl

The Bovdel ?6 ir $ imprift ôf B.td.ll & Br{er Ld

PO Bd 9, waoabddg., sufl.ur IPl2 JDÂ UK.nd ôaBotd.U 3. Brdù lnc

no Bd 41026. Ro.hdEn NY r'!604-4126, UsÀ*wbordeu o.uL sfl

E

A d$los. rdod for ùis 6oôk is â€ili61eÊom ô. Bnlih Libr:rY

Libnrt of Cangrd C&log Grd Ndhen 2001037424

T1; publistiôn i PitEd o! did fÉ' P:p"

Printd d Gur BriûiD bY

Sr Ednùndsbury !c$ Linitd, But St !in!n& SÙFôl|

Contents

ema lzwrunùitullaik .tdtDd"",6,lttttun1û .alEr4ù,o,

rccbniqu6 us.d ù kilê producrion

aatit tNnùùn rn udt 6 aJut ddlrç ir,z.{rrdr,/h 1ù*jndtùtk :nstitd.tilk ùbE Lrnl\ - hrà, Matr rith rrl ld&t tùrà. _ykd!,1@h!rc rtubnr ykùrûh@t,n ,airi't! -.teft

ld]kr[ santut - Ât rtsrt lnntùit.:

etftathut Mrr 7ni:t1it!

a a . h o a t t . . t ! t t . . . t t .

nlatqt ttwrtkn.rùr biù rurd ùt t 3 nùrt îkùd !.Lut( y_tûiln,nxti kut - ittd.d ûùtan t 3 t ù1 u thùt:k yhdù ûtatqu, vt t 2

- | . d o a . . ̂ a r . . k ,:'l|d.d|.ùlrpçx]

hat itr Lrtur - titr" aù r,! lnnn drrr

D a . o , t t _ . t 6

S6tnek tniq@ md bilorint

wingdffids stui,Ctûh"rt s bi"dil4!ôtdkl"ss fxtrningildtad\ dututt:N tudud -.1"4trài6 - tue6

n.lhal rfâtturtiù and kl,ntltdin - ûr t

GIrsry à2

215

DESR(

c,{nDHINTI

.lf1lcl

to editionsecondInrroducrion

On ot tllc n6t uÀ?ecred grins Éon ù\€ ieueMârion. mdenkfl in tne cny or Llndondudne lhe 1970s dd erly 1930s M tÀ€ quantiryor ncdierrl mns Rrri.vtd, rdiculâiiy ab;.i q.bêid" ,h. Fi*, Thmo. TÀ. u-n9;a,n*.rùuB rcmân5 mtrrPsrd in !fsi.6 Eu6rcÂnd ihe n{.ri:l n * risniÂent ao h. medi.;:lpùiod { ih. d L, arcn \andotânda, .tûe bHaddrl v/all, ft for the Rollm p.riod. R<enrndâologicâl adviti6 in Londôn have yjcldednorhins @mpdblc m4 dEeaan, th. .onÈmofrhis bllne rnain * tldant @d:r { wten

A fer daelophcns ,n rh. ïldy of med.!:lrqriis h:'c ul€n plàe n rhe d.od. rhr h*.lrpjed sinc ô. fE(.dinôn wpnnkd.A,zluibk neq rclireift bæk hÀ rppar.d on .hen.di.val doti i.dùtq {ÀicÀ njc d€nsiveùs. oainft)ftanon d.riv.d iôE exobrd r*dsr wrll ô Êom do.umms4 rnd vrùt jhsicndon ]tq9) Oô.r cre{h bù fô.utr,1

""p.n.med silk. o.e r}?. oiii& idddtiê,1hêE:6

PDb:bil 5pr5h iNo 393 pP t0çto1 trûou consd@ by ù .minor 6dt. hnoluro b. ol pKbl.Ircfth onBin pùhrp6 fromh. rein6 Rgron or dcn P,tr (D66Es1999, l0!lo.In ddiiion, I@, nr!ft ttrmishmic SFain, |l1. 6* -gdn a 6 ti..ounût 01 nùuhdft for @rhù dlrinqiv.silk (No 459, PP r07-l2j \Mlclc6 1t92,atr2, Dos 61 ard 62). the dâ.. oartc Fve i.BEmen aù.dÉl {hdc tÂe erliN dl| ofrhijqp. h aoud ha âlsû bæn qustioft<t due @th. P6mc .f r gôtd 6ngù{in3 rnrh :Îûrùp-sbpd hoop, !fij.h mor. tihelvb.long: 6 ù. t2tn rhù to !h. llr[.n;(Hiniôn1190,6,17).

T[e bmk [r found : wid. inrcnrio.nErd.rùp nông ndêns md *hotûs inrs-sEd in tÀ. hinôry oa dr6, ubù sudÀ aniltnc mrùiat c'iiuÊ of rhc Middlc AgÀ. rt ir 18Rn prdre di{ n 6 behq EDuhGhed.iogcrhs krh rh. Én ot ù. Fn;. ; nuta rheinaorndon r@sibt. rô . ns g6diiôd.

DEsROrltRS . rm" p"t, n..'r'tn LkLio.dc . cL$iÊrrc. o_p..,noLd jeuuùk"ro1, er-4 ù'àâdb\ T..tar$. é utùa J4,$.)r9

ffP^oj _o:' ,"l^"-gq* ^ vôa Âs- r,u d *, G-,rù +aLn. !,ap'âr. ta sn, ,u ' ! u ̂ . , r ia Mcd.hs . l , . s , in B ddJ . . r / .d , . ab ,^

"d L , " -on i ,o ud" " le,,6ur v,n.hsrs nldiB7/2. 64G51

WIUaY\ÊNS. L w, t992 unÈhtbli.h. Sêtdatoî., Batir

p 133. FiC 100C: aù tt I ftrd .i4t

Acknowledgements

ùÈ book {oul.l hle bê,Àd rrrr.r rhoùihckl i(.harûlôsisÈ. Dxr

r i i t r \ H r . À ta .do $hù - i t r . , 1 ._nL' i u n \ { f n r d i i . i rbrths !ff 'ndê(.ken by {irr ot rn. cuildhal

suctê$o. ilr rr,,semr 0fr!ùon, iiicllding H.lo caDiris. sùzr,eIieenc, r.!r,L Mo'lisonsinss ând À:i s-ring Dirs l]ru a,j,r popii

I .! ae ro. Lhr trrdê \ rn :d t i i | ?d t r t h .p L i \ L r .?n ene r,"er ury ylaF by clvds ljd{ûis or i a*.irit \Jrr(meD6 rnbomiory

nrh{.o t, ào 4 mdror icf!o r.àr . $rhu[r v \.u, ôr Llndôi ! r' rw rr.t]|d or 4lvNedff.JorPailer,JêùvD.\i.r.Trt1u IILtr{lrn s.rnlier I sue $!ok{ (Phoroqd,rjfs"ùû,r aih) cô !fr Pn.hfatdbe4ft LndIr sp,mù Lr, . !m. r,l Ttd!:l). ,rLmiûr(;eor Egar [n...$a R^dcMe ]i.l Àhn r.ù ,

\'/ 'Ùluat TonrL).1 lrr. ' rt. md qnrù $ï,rr. .,,:dirll LherenudAnnc r.ùerLudritôùr n dr

Fb G s4 r dcn r , , . r j F ra I l l oD l . \ i ^1 .R i \ a , t ? r \ l \ t h , . h \ , r n \?É . r i l r r

L i { i n \ h l r d . . rc \l1iùry rid his foi D.r { û6. A Hm,(. IHury | tugiuâ rd \'l J !i ltronr\ Nlor rêftrr dy! .nrr.F.s r{e doûe by plnelop. t\:jkontrho rwi mâd. D[nv hr]ptut \u{erions wilh I c:rtr(l 1o thc r.njle\ lrâr alorcscrD.. orrsn otkLnl rhfetrds \:s cùri oui ar rrrê ai.idùorurhl\ Llbontorj b! J!1k B ltf iûd

\161 oI ù. lKamljois îpo{+{.Nntio|orooinn rd ù3rrsh xere tu nl( lt L! Har{c1Eûslâftl) odirsût,rerser virhin rh.l t).û{rm.n ,,r rhe E*j.onm.t .Ij,

aiLy ot h,idonù.hâeoLoÂicâl To! tiud and th. \JsH,m ùrn on Trd liud pn'i&il rht mji inan. Àt

nF@|itr1rks$arijrr niùngsrqaÈrd.h

1l,c ùrho6 hrr rrù rul Fo,n di$us rar i d ! r ' I t - n . ! \ hn r r r \ LqduL . f t 6 .r r r d e I J r , i H r n . r r n . . k U , . r . , ! . - .

H{v LiJmr; b,hrrig. Hæ\ n{4 |.."* Lr-,1 h;q i æK f h . e t r . À r i r\ l . i , t r r i ù b r , ' r h . s ! \ L . L r r L À i r 1 , " o DT,rl s fr À,. T u. f -L \,'Lr , rohnP.rJ lviLd a lum /_o7irn. sosjtrl thânks anôs"d io Saùln \lorncrnis i)' nr,{iu ùi ùediI r'l kÉiler lioDr .raldiotrs ii lne ridkrtu{ls.Ls \r,D's I'hô $v. côtr\ derabl. hetD rrhuâlydris th. sirk rexlites tr otr '.d (ï,i qjnabr, .'nù's. .nd ̂ nr. rrùhesiG ,"ho i.n..ôu . \ nL . ,1 nJù md i m - ! . , L mùF

) rd , r r rà e . r r J \ rp i ! , , " s \ . I l r ? .dna

. ô R 4 h r r n l d r . r t 4 f . t r ( h r ! r ôi ' h . . r Û ! mù î . . j - ! f i \ r h èô i s j qn t r ro | l i ,

LL , r h ' b ! R - | l L r rnJ \ r rbu .c

n'eelosùacùi.5 re sed on d.ririinr\I t û | f t I r na , r t q 1 , , r l t i t l , t t 6 \

k , ! due l tb \ h iL t , {L t rErotr ,,f RorLdûl*È

The pulrljt{im of dF rtdcs his been mâdeNsrble by smb riu( ft. r tr( tirclr Fudthc fa!ùr Rese}.h fnid r,e \rtrsuh orllndôihrbli.xiiôNconnniree.f ri. 51'rFrshotr d rJ'e ltusemr or t. nt,r :ud $e beouc$ ôr

Jôhn :vet^ur ro djp Lo.dor nt Middl.qa(hâ$lolnll sô., rr JohD \oinson sr\ rrrhFr t,f^on ro p(blish an.te oD rhe bufron.

d L r t r i r h , r . \ i !m Br .1 . r+ r . . nd \ c

Conventions

Nùmericâl r€fercnces

Ihe trrdicdr*ên€rhftùlhottrh€e*e|lt to6e criêtÛie;

ni*. àai. *1," . ur" -u. - "t'kn

ùr rl]]â@d M e' ùnw 'n ns book hæ brm 6undThe ill list of siê, {iLb dâl4s ofewlion, is as lôÙM

$l?1

.iL14

IlS1, Fl

CLR

DHD

HBMCO

MOL

BC72

BIC32

BYD3l

DU(?T

FRE?3

Baîûd's House (omonly hom às Ba}lr,rd's cÀde) Qudl'Étori.

Brynard! HoÉ, Q@ù vddi. stseel Ec4, 1975

Binfu!€de tlrry hrt,IÆrlhmês Sùæt, EC3, 1932

Billinsssnb Inny hdr, bdrllares 9ê4 rc3. 1983 (*Lhins bnd

Balrdd s C.stle/Ciry ollrndoo Bo'Ê School, UDærThd6 Stsed, EC4'

CuM Hoûse, Wôol Quan tNrThm6 Stêet, EC3, 19?3

Nd lrèsh whar4 i.wThtus græt, EC3, 1973

cùildùâllCshûSte Ædert]HbùJv,EC?,1965

MII76

tublc Clùsins Depot !F!€r Tnms Sùet ÉC3, 1959

Sat Hôue, 1nH UpDrÎtes Sù êêt, Bl4, 1971

Swn l@/UoperThmes Skêel EC4 1931

23 Trig lae, UppdTllæs Stse€t, EC,t, 1974

Dehned inJomaro on the siLs is si€n in the chapû ôn È{@lioni

No r. No 54. No 159. et.À. -'.Àt* -u* si* o ùe êw Pd rm d:<rNd r thi' bool eft ôr which æ

;;;d;àed in J'e s"Ètrd c.bl"F4 Lee bd@ ' dddlolwrù. àêliedmù"Gn ùddle

l-ig 1. I:ig ?3. FiB la3, Tcbte 4, pl ,rÀe €t., " o À - n o { . i , 5 . o .

IUustratjons and biblio$àphic refer€n(cs

Selected carâloÉues

:fiïffi.lti,ï::xi:iïi,tiii;ï1iiifl:i,î#il;ïit,i,:,f,1ï,:lli;'#îllfH$lr|lîtliiilliliill.lfiîiX1i,*Xl*.i*l 'rim'h n'e dâ"s siletr ii dr\e eiâr"g"* 't"' ' rr a.e oi

r n'e selercd drâtos!6 t unbtrcd t xr9 apppù d thc .rd o t rhe rele.nt $ctjôD \ virhjn rhe mtn

Concordâncclhisljisiiùnr.haln(|tâtlrheiÈmsdis.ussedindri;bookrial!ritr..tudesido.naiiùonrhesiÈ.' . " . 0 , ' , . , . " : , " , . ;

" 1 " . : " î î l ; ; l : . ^ , * , - ,l ; " , " ; t . " ' n " . . . i . . i . . i i ; . " i " " " . , ; ' " , i ; J ' 1 : : " ' :

I

\toL

ûr rin rtt ttt,rwo (.rB,blrFrrh,rûIl dat tLh\ R,tk LsabLbh!;];\itartùrdarylLibmb Rùtk lseeBibir,)Fi,h\)

!-rque. nfd ro dû{le d ithtdjon/diaqtun in drjr book

HG6i. &lildinss amr \Jonunes Comnhsj{D (Ens]Id)

s/s,z/z

1è4 6onnCbthins

Nrhêr, @d 10 irdi€ie nùnbeftd itens it tbis boôh

?lâe. ued to demG r olôû plai. in ùis bælhblic Re.od O6c€, bndmo' )r'rwirhrsmiLrlllrsÙo, ôfsidinboùwpmd*et /F.15-

d;ixêd simjm, i.e. Fn is zt*isted id ore etu (ùûânv thê ttr!) sdgtçisled in fte oùs Gæ a1e GLMt)

NFz/s

KEY

II

Introduction

Àîhaûtqiel inrnisatio's tr di (irr oIl uL dLtriry lh. r9i0s rd 1!3G h.!e nimuratcdIcs.x,.hi ô r rj ,!f16,/iflxnlrr nirqud]l]h ôr.!ù!drr objeds fi om ni. où iod 150iô !s0j\Fniùtnrt!iDpr.sn! rnl lrro!ides inlùrm onrhtrrr rrar n.{rL.ion, r,eHL rniLrbtero hisorùns nrê driesriaù \rr! rhog :: ii.ciD.id.s siirr a \{prfe oI rivdsid. rutrbishdlmdi! \nrn h en bc datcd F{ aù!a(l!. ,(lh( {l'irh moi oI rh. dèircc deftibÈd ii rhF

SoirrceslÈ:1il.s xtrd .rtih rq f( q)n- Nhirh uiil fco y ii liigl.rd hllt depodcd larÂ.ly rpoùasuuror.rrlLdrronvi{ûlsxr.ês si.h.s

rlod ù)nDm.nbrbnscs \{Lt Ind pan.l Daif

h'norir ftr( p' Êrntd in.h!(hês.nd d rollediorr rTlir. ei:ràr trid urirq lnnres sû11 'tn'ù ri.lilr req nù nehs or 'r!.a,d, ihcnrrile. theuisents oile rrnsible ùoùf ol \rh.1\qs 0dlabl. ' { lû.oul.l b. ] jn,dù!l l l lhdrqs rlo.n in ,n.die,trr rrrdor

lrrisaônrlisiirerrc I r0r ltnnrd r0 rirdôrorhê.DisKh rlus.Dorabl!liingnu, qû H,,llo\hxu, ronhùmingt. \e!.a$rê û\nltoû t!r.{8j,sorthampror (c'n{rool(c,lxJoot 1990) trtrd lnrk ofiLtLon l91r9Ar, hxll) i.kl..l i1'jlA \rlLlfh ôL nio ûe ffDrral pârcniDrovid4l rh. mor c .\L'shr .L,rr, t in{ \ rrurIlndon dd ri.s. âre .onroleùèdrrl by pie.csfioD rrmr. ltridr.l.ste rnLJfrnor sire! (.scrorJoot r9Jr: Crrer ri HcNLran 11i;trcn)rbdre6ûFttri r13r) A.âresùuord,isÂn{:Illlqrmr i$oJdah . :pdû . i ! t ù ru j , Lgo r l l t r r reo lrexLil$ in dd,îd3r !se i,, ri!I..d dunns thc tab

t:rL.û e\c&tio's rhNn.f. ii rdrrrnlFùoDe. Nkllr lari.d oû if É{rÈ drmiancF {rr.( hî,r i5 r,.i,Lg kdeleoled. hxvr

aho Ésùu.d ji rrr$ rumbeF orrnilÈ bL;,!rc.ùdd rur n,cdind drpûsis TlÈ* rosrsin.lude NovgoFd in Rus a: lio,ill,e rr, Aersennl oslo in Noroq \\Ti'r Gdmsk 'nl opol. i,rPoirnd: !],lt\ers arl l_iib<-k i! rïê{ c{rninliÀnrF rJn Ind Dordr.dr ir 'rric N4henmdinl Pcnh iJi S.orldd hblislied .È!ons am mil.bre ror som. oa rlrn Ùnc(iors 0iahLik 1963Feryli 1933: S.hiinbds 1934: Ki.lrbù! rq70;rij.lb.ra rl32: vrik 1983: r.*DiDka & Nùtjt1360; lidov 19ri2i rnrsarodn r9$) Benne(r9r?).lim despib diis trlch ol rhe evidùr.. fc

toMr I n{rrrnr En.ole Mrc, upto ùoi, beenrê.ônled in smaLhr nudn ! tiramrnt dab

hidon lexliles in L\.nriu.prltr rôtri1i ielicr l,eil! lherctofe. ulltrelide!.ê to'n nonhem ruroD. 'l.lrr (nDrldiirn ir reDese x tu11 ùos+ sedion ol u bæsoù4t but. n.L.flr.l.s, rlq lor m a vâhd $:r

\rh k rôwr c!,r{iors u e rhe lâr!.$ sour.!oin'êdier.l Lexhlcs prcs.nd rodaj ;, Frrslmdin y irt ior ùe oDr) iotr.& cnles and tonbsi:o lLcrd r{irf!sl,t.h ofcn hm ùÈ added hsdnrion ôfb,.iût .s$.ircd vùrr À kms. ÉÀqraI!_ nÈ oirc(ife oI openrs rô'ihc is .01 a trsrôre lr the Diddl. aa.s rml)5 !e.e opùtd roF{Nid. eviden.c of tr bo(r \ incor@itbjti\n a'ld{he coai.s ôi sâùrs !e.c someùmes raNlârêd[aD onê rôrb ro,nothù li â r.sûli dyqLi(.le(o..ÀqL.lr! des.ribed temhs rcrnd\rd 6anronbs or ?ddcd ro ih.n'. fû erm{ne ùosÊ of srcurhbert ar D!.h cdhednl (Râdj,..ôNr195ri, 1r]J) or or Ed!îi L\e anlre$or d tfèsmin$ù Abb{ (Dodlrû 1132, 162-5) Euildingn ;s rnd F$ostoi hiv! .ko led ro dr dhturbrn.cxDdqr. rLgof ro'rbsole ùri),rê lriesGena+. aùonkat Chn{ crruith. cùG.horrônn, rul LrlancÊs diar rôôk 0h.e rhere indre rârê uth ..ntur) :Jl.r i jifr tsr Johl Hop.l|l91-3 1961, a inof tr.e docmcùcd rion rlk19rh ùnl 20Ùr lolu.ies. lLmbs in uiltùd ro!.ld rê{riLes incnLdc d,os. ofllill ile Blois

,*"r,,,*ll:r .'ï i"Ll;:,:^"',"-'il: 7, Ki,L!rlnr1.r5e iù 115):prcrlbl!lleùvdenL)È llisl,ôtùi\\'j,nh.{ù (jPd11tLl. v[o nnsthc fùuDle;],,ùdr(.r KnsSq,rN rnd . dhrù;,nhd ûrotr or rrr rc orin.hén'ca;iulril Jolre 136!. il0e: cfô$lool Iell L;7 e.r3d-sr Htrl)!rt\iiLlrer.ÀlhLin'oolLaûr.ôur.i i,l rllù5r. . lPadin! r'sotiator i. tlie Hol! IândùùLnr r t r l l r r , ! r d " (ad i k l n c r l r r r l f J l\ .; H-^ ber ' ch\r,LLtr nslgol\ 7 -ci f!n!l$r l:. r') I

hb i \ l aP ! r \ , f r l cd ! ' i )! K ' l j o h n ! i : _ q . I

f t r rL "nJ dum{ i ' nu NôrHr r r r l r n ' lLv l rL .L L le l L lhn ' c r l hh i - l r o fYÙf r rùd! ! r r ôo rk À l i i i . . r ' ! r i l I L sdd i i ù i '

.ù.ftd i,, ]tî l bû r*-ord\ lnr on! 1r'ê brerriûur ol d,c ki4! bu iÂl tubes dd ot dri"

(arlort risli, Al.uder & Binni r8t 3lf. ûa

Texbler rrôD loûbs {rh 15 rlfr Drov'de âdandird adist {hich thos trfù lrbân en*}r oF .n lre âs*\s.d Alrlioush il '5 ràf. br Ùbtrn ' etun ro ,nclude iienis ti rli. qnâljB or L\eùr.iâllrnEft olml,l.sorbisliops orrrlÔrxrLvFin6 of sn'ihriÛ do !ûà ge cir .iall! 6 tMvi ùN rn silk dotu excdabd han bûdotr Fd.ra. dr.n drâl reùtrdcd toùi orher nrsns itr;onhùn FimE \lterùls nv,l ar the lrÔùrd!bn!. LoL tn{li\l .nrLruuô . ,d r \ imor i . , . 1 Ch i i c t r ! i l l l dmù;ûn ; r . r ô to€mÙ, . . . , d+ ' n {u rù .

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Preservation of the txtles

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5jon or ùê sliûins pheel (P 4s)Ns rorms ol s'ptd pi{.rnjns indudins oi

tr.Æion rhe us of silk thrad. chmen$ .6-bjl Èol tubrics fioû l4rhtthlv deposib inLondon. Tè,.oles from otler ioMs in nolthemD!oE, such æ Dordræhl h North BrâbânL iFdis6 thd su.h immdds had alrcadv bè$nhefôre the end dI the l3Lb mh!J. The $inÙlÙss€ds to hâE (me, in Éttdleast, fm a d6ireto imift silk hbrics, dhined with chdses inftâviq khndosy od L're ftrê!.ed use of the.oDerb,l,nce h ê.dle @ IÏêe clorhs d4€nmineihftrole in.lothins sinæù* @e oftd,dodii fû ùe liæe of retanen. so 3kikjns islàeir-a@dce Lhat diry en e6ily b€ iddrifedin û.triDudnls ând ru!aripr illlllrrûtiôns ôfthe Éiiôd Gæ FrondspLee dd FLs rse) Thesdnivins cloths, hffi. cDble the MplàitvoI the Éttêrns b b? mdnt@d in a qv làt v6

]iæsês ind knrtbnc tre inrluded in rhedÉ!i!r on mol txlilei a ùê wP15 dè$dbed de mdè vholv ton ftol none de[d deposiis eùt5 thm the s{ond hâI of thel4ih cetuf .TâFti6Doinlrolhe inpotuæ 0Inûishnus in toM houses at this p€riod, {tilehined it c ol ml, Fri;oizrty aps, opps bhft bea çm at 6161lor wftn bv wknrsnù md wmen belde bèiigadopd bv thÉ ofhisher $ial st l!s. Feh, â non wcn âh.ic, isrlsù included md encompNs â tieæ deÉDm ânirtue oJtuldd oinzlhâii in addifDn

Cloths nâdê fom3rdrztforn dre sùbi*t orâsôâûte cùâob. These re âll ôf simllû co}sti'rjon od æ *mples or a pmdud i! sidFsFêrd use h mediFàl Eûop€ *hich is nol wllk mfiotwitunsrc'

&H is rhe subjec! oi 65e æt1 chrpd likê.lôihs {lrH fior trol or si&.lhê tuae oflinù.hunEed ùd dmloped 'luns the middle ùg5èxhoush 8y deblen zsMeù È Prdludedhere bv dË smâU siæ oI rhê emple. It È ndknûm he diÉræ or eÉcnsiE dt linen indGbr fts in redie'd Etslod: linm Ém \4l]lio,w bllnè md arlsllm, Norlolk E supplied totbe coùt in ù; $d md l4tà cotries (clx.1296-14, &iNicor* 1a43,40 56iSldon Ûà,rl5: Surbn 1939, î2), bùi ihe b*t qu,Iiy lmhconhnued 1o b€ i@rtd tm â6rc2d à€ il hadbêen n ùè Rotw ùd AdltSNn Friod' Not

lùitq a,n Cbthins

util d@nd tit 14th century did a linen ildusrvnoùishinkndon,whsaspânbÊ ldollinenwES * eslabtsùed (c.nsitl 1933, 60). Dû.m diê $rn cdtuR Ù,s @rçPmduæd embiiious tree ol ûapery bd or ùjs ârh!olog,

sii{ dib lion lddù æ sdd only 10tios of môl in qluriû. Thi€ chapl€. is prehcèdvirh o inboductjon whicfi plaæs lhe trse ÔJclorhs in rhe more seneol coljd of silk jmpoftsirto Emlând ii the mêdiel pû od It hâs bÈoû€ a@dflt thlough die tÛ* of acbâeôlû!i$ in the pu st t*! decdes drir rjlk ws not muusu.l lomod rv @ in lod'{mu'v roMssùô âs London. lvhile some Diæ6 relei@ded dd recrded, such ws Lheirvdue ândore$ee, , ssnih@t feÛe of rhê tsD min xrh'ænris :s€mblàse\ or bxriles frnm Llndon Ètie lâ.k ol snilârity bêlwn the pderned $lkclotid 'tuo of ihose in the @ûp dating b ùesond qûrter oJ Lhe r,Iù cqury, boih wft-ftced co@und sjlÈ, had sidttv sders.nerftlinÊ of ene kind berore thev rele die@;ed. bur a third cbù, a t*jll dflasL whi.hes the Droduct ofr nore dishnt Pdng æntrein ùe Fû Eâ{. .ræm b hft had a muchshorlèr Deriûd oI use. Ibiim silks - @,,adrriA, ând sdins -nomthe le r4th @ntulvaI @Tto hæ bæn disded ftirly cpidLv. Asthe clùLhs wre roi oy 1es hddwùinc it sæmstô reiect â slish{v nore *ftu, onsunerôrienbtd sieq.Îbê tieæi hNd, âre sna]lrd theftd otlh*cloths es ùesDâblv Duttotutier us..'Itlis might sienit 8reâ1er zfluen edùg innabihts in tùe wle ol $e BlrôkDeâth- but i1 wuld be ra"ù b speolat on he

M&d .riY6. o! teniles ffi iion mrê thânone ibre, such as wo1æd lind tlineD rd silkdè Mqidû.d nd îrey indudc hÀrqilk €l'wR Nô rLl4Ùt whd hâs 50 iÙ bffi reûdedtw a deposit in r,ndôn diûng to be6re 1450,dùoqh p'eé dttd , b€utitùl dêep r€n wiùùe (oslr rd hiet'ly priu en dlt, rêrmet û€ êmùtrasihelroud bbricof 14ù+nh4Erulnhenbmideriês. Mv oixhich wre ûâde in trrkshops i! the CiW d{nc nl63, t; Fn.h 1976, 23È

,{ad @6 bÊidq, FftE ùd hâirneG6med æiûNrùrthtuch otlheÈxt leindustrvod added â siÆifi@t dimeæion to a pMk

,eæam.ê. It ksbylàe 'tuzli9 olan individuâl sùiminss 4d æe*ôiei æ çeI âs by rhecôlôù æd ri.lùes ol rabiic. thar his shtos Mqprodajmed, a bct acknowledsed in 14dr ùd 15th.entury Mptozry legislâriôn. The b€ids fronLondor .trâl $at ûùy oi the sjmlter vdieri6Ee prcduæd ondnùous\ ùoqhoû ùepedod Silk nûgûloop bnids. tor êxmple, depreent in a hr r2d'{enr4 Dit fill md ditrer mrat al from those ol rhe lare iÛ ceind Thwclêdly $red esdrial næds, inôludins tâch!eamênG ùd *ruins :s puruê drNiw, andodd nol be ù'!r@d uFon More consituuusbEids. *peiâIy those rrm as Âirdt6 ôr @not biminss werê mo.e influûed bv lzsùion Vo/l€É qkùEd m bbkr ktrng :d,pædher oulrlt t0 imibre sdire dd lahr sùi àndlrlvet. T.blet-wn bmiù frd r.ndon retedûesê chùær in a smal nv. :lrhouch none rcfi^,ttu rhns All rhe brads Ltesrbed m ùischipb wre ptubably made locally in ih. cir,usins impoftd 3ilk dùead, ùd ths rÀrito !s ôfd'È is indiGEd by tiny knoE,lme ùe ldùih ofùethreâdswhefrhe rerep md osdhe (l-rs

stui,st dt iqu6 oidraihtits^Ê eÆiîedia$e nnal châlre. Th€ de asDsds of mêdiev"lclothins thai haE been lirde explored utit m{and â ftâittr oJ iûlormrion vibl in êsbblshinslhe F.hni€l skjlls oJ the Ftud is lonhominr.Semr hhç b'nd,nsr, hûnss ùd hsûjnG,luch a€ Làcins ùd b!tunins re de*rjbêd ùdso de the swinq threads r*d. Wn e this oiddæ m,) à0!èd pmrk lnd 16 app€,iins onù :s$eti. lel u'n rhe supûb êËmrteç ot,r4 4r4,.d,o which hâk .ighdy afiâdd considemble atundon. huch ol the sft.hins Næbeing cried od ôn *Ûftb€n hès in r\e smemêhpork rnd û, nmjbr daÈ Many subdeûerùe reFàled rr!:ch wuld not otheturê hÀebm ibowht of æ conponrb ûf4frdav wrin thê trdr centuryj die skilled, reotd md nrnsbichils of ùê bùtunnohi loi exnDte, or ùên6€rùlLv dppLsd silk lacings. Evfl m;re strikBis rhè u& or dk ubl+{Wn bnid

"ùked dr

rec y on to mw slft edg€s. This is d uldpet'en touch, alrho4h it h!! onfl bffinoFd âs âÊnishing methôd oo pûuùe5 trd rt sems liketyLrrat it n{v also haE bæn ed on olhei edæs.ærhaps necUines ùd slefl€le$ omhôles ihisrennem€nt, which ôdy ùe wârer ed his or her

ùostimediale cômoanimswuld hm seen andâmr{i:rê,1, rù br ftced bd.k rhmush mryenbne' ànd by Û'e qoûd hulf oI ùe t4L\ (dtury qs clG to dismêding nom n5e ssi.s

The laBer rdt ôl rhe .haplè. deats *ilh theù'ùng r,l qhrpins ofsôrmenÉ. Thc Ltorh isetr,its dopinÀ- qù:lbs md rôloui aF.d to hmbeen â ænhl preoeupârion oflhe 13tb enns.and prob:b j eùùer HhrFs rôô, @ducin â;e esuce or3!le

"hnh hÀbeei uivætly ad

mned in suc@diracenturies (Goddard l!27.20:Evms 1952, 10, 20),'Itle chases whiôh heoneâplrd i! rhe 1{ù cenbfy cdrre upon a n$DrdcùpaùonviLh cut beli*d ro hâÉbeo biÉsered otrby delopnsts in plâb dmour whicldemànded more.lo*lrrù4qpÀd'ted smen6lndemeàrrr lras ntuàlbe npidly lrâtuG.red to ciùliân 6shio!, ùd to ber.neded in tun in remalè fashioos. tncreæinctvas the Uih æntuIydve.ed it%s ùe @bld;;rmnj@ldins JLr kdions ot . orh io ft doreD rorhe body rorm $hich b€tre rhê Dreo(udionof thefashiotuble.Tjneaturrim€@ .m;fficbrdideh æd comenÈh deried ihii 1;rrtoriàl rudiês, rhr insibbte vretns or prèrioushrdwoEncbù5: reiul{ùlctrrrrilinlonâllcr shaled Diees to fil lhê hùI)n roM r rn.like lhe srlier pmdrice GrjI, oJ muree, follMdbJ drê ls,-ilumr) of usiq up lq o'ee oIclôth bv Jiniig qqwes or reclcnslês qth ùiarsxrù !{tron€ 'o o eàh a mùre sh@ty Fr-Im( ûê new lÀshion beE!ilinc EmFrn urùJemànden du ketulnes u s pùl ot irs .ræd or(0nspKuo6 onquhpdoi. Despirp ihis, 4onsrhe ,bms ekmFd nom Llndon rere se ioonplelc clothes, drough Mmd6 ot tuni6,hose md hoods @ be reonshcbd rôn rh"remnan6.Anodrer as!{tof r\e !o wsêft lnsoI rsores i5 rô bê fomd in theruûns up orcroù b ùêâre decorariE efe6 lhr E bê{ È.emplined by ùe d,$rs foud in bolh l4th{mtury lûels â18c72 ehich Ære ùsed ro ornamentcrôrÀins or hoise hrns, a dshcrive elened mdmpoôry soriâi stle rhd h echoêd inrhepieredlætu* Côthic*iodo\tshors-ol lne sne yer5 (Cr* & Ne€rg&d lq5!,30

Every sou.è of inJornation Iæ ib ôm inheFmlda$€^ ând [nibliors dd a inrerDrerâtjônis open ro quenjor The tâ.F body oI ltnites

tun r,nLl n *@\ b rhill,is. mJ]av p:i ùsmrÙon. Jbôddorh rd.loLhins in meiiMLnpland ùd rtuliLi.s3 ns euRr d m&nr orchÀ,^lird ft hiss l^iLlon lù\b€ênamar trenbc for th< !ÊJon di\d:v ml difturioi utclorl q f"\hiaF fuf more rhzn , thoA ûr veA:hrÉ àtlai kr uuûfr!tory b exprurrÛcni A rd clortins ol'hê tlM, BilrÙ thr orÙrciobilily. dtrnq'r a period shich has ofren beeidnsidered roo Hnob to nent nore Lôin a Fse

EC4,

(i) 1

The excavationsAlan Vince

Thêiâbh\Jsnben n 'hsmt!,n- wrc lounddunn€ d(hrtuloqiL rl q.ÆLr È conduæd hÊ'{epn 1972 rJ tq$. md !ùrEty d,he rron,ùn re* b rhÈh : d !@ and c rMshc . ô rdeposiiior .an be ÀaslEnèd. rn ro$l inshces lhedde w reache by us4 r oinbi,ration oJmerr^ls - d,ê *ûeohir seoueme. ar*.idêd dùb ! ,brecE. csf€nâjty côjn\ ind Frrery, rrrns ddjne rLjodrc.hrmotus), ùd

ences ' ne nam lrsunenb are smmeised beror, r)ur tuiher i.lorrurioi is av,irihh hS.hoûeld 1936 or in sepddeDtrbticarjons âs 1Èr.d'lhè

cddes gib b eæh exùvaûoi bv ihe Mu.(cum of London ùe uqêd n ùe sdedd C.ù.l@errd Gnconlcmê n prebÊnce b rt! tullname ând addre$ oI the sic. Here thêsê codcsare aûpmdtn i! bnct6 ,ner the ,âne ot L\esre, {bile L\e No/s ret6 ro ùe niiùbered iGùs

BalErd,s tlôuæ, Qu@n \tcrdia Se€€rw4, t972 (BC72)

lne edlon olmonty klwn as Bâvnâdr(}$le tool Dlre in rg72 {webeer & cher; rq71L62l) rL!{erdmùeiofrroomqdelruaredro he suih of thc ofiLinul Brvnârd s G!ùe hu Iby william lùd ro rh" q*otûtakr ùous oru'ê cme nme Tqo rùse dæontst;ed;qldae Ère ciqvâred md rhesê m be retard ro âdotr-çlkri dôck 'deadnd by Tony Dr$n,nd

DB from ïldessteer lo 6\e riEr (Dyen 1939, l0).

(i) The @nstlucLjon ofde dock

rrlr dll opied thp {j k d rh( stêrLru oLneorLdwrd ttrd Edvàrd rhêrrroiaou dteo âte l3rh ôr eûlv rilr{nrw drP bd rrthoushi to hâE heen stil .ursi in lhê 1330s orkrer(Riqoldlgu,99) AddeindrB30strt340sis onsideFd tobpthrm6ttikèh tor Ûre dumDwhi.h if,ctud.Li ,eÉr:l hud.ed rdils of w;iiaq! 'lnvùJ, h?fue 4ChLn",ctuiùddaskq rn h om \jlk cNo 13Âr E lhc mosl exôrj. D{eorhe. i6s includc a iùmber ofbfton.d àæs,arrronÉrm.ns iNs12 {,17,r8 6i 6i.b3).d:qges rNos sr ?nJ 70) àhtaptrtoih,nrmmc{ wjrh: bbtei.qolcn brid (No 1!2) Mstkmê\h h:nrcÀ No\115 r$r. ùLl tl"men6 offFl' (Nu r33r.

(ii) The usÊ lnd ffllinq ôr dre do.k^ lay6 olsilt *ithin the d;.k cônbjned r nodtrdte-\iæd Àkhblaae orporG4 :nd a ood{krrrnriê[on whlh .u8se( ûd ùre dùk ms i. ukdùing ùê ùird quark.ofr\e t1ln cenrny.Avadas@DrÆ Ms le.oEred ftoù rhe bætdill ôrrhedoùk, bebind a stone wrll whi.ri blocled thedùk G n! FilsrmelhiE:ndFlioB@mrtor depo5i[oo dù in 0iê ta* qurtu. or the l,thcmtory. Mey hrndreds ol rerril6 krê Daclêdinb lhjs du'rp and ir hæ pNed to b! ihe rjch6tso!ftê d o4?ni â,-bra!Ls *cMd r rhe CRI@tu n.rùdè rhree @Ien hoods rNô. r7i 2!;2ai. buhond edslsorsùmeits Nus r59.1?3.2IG221 ?72, 271, n4nènE or hok tt.los 23+241) daÊses (Nos 2ab-253), 5i& wns (Nos 32-J31). ôilcu6 of Luc.hclerr rù .toths Nosl37J44r pieÉE o bp€sb-r (NorJr2lls).L[ttiig (Nos ?16, 31?), hâlf.sitk Elrers û,ios 3{9-352), dd pùposemde eânss c,{os 3ss 390).

The northêrn qu ol rhe dock mde ue ofrnrJle rmb. Me'6o . rray|Erd s HoM,Qum M@iaslFeqprænding srone kt| fld rhe wsl wal %s Ec4, 1975 (8c75)rôrhed by r{lrinxic ùârea orhrshùre wthii MaDr(sirei,

i""#'tri ï:r; r# i,ii il::gii"m îï*"#*f]"?l :;..:*âjî,ig"-

tioD r co[iD6ed ponion ol a RoûD' rivcnide ]nl$âs recorded {Hill d dr 193o, ?). Dûdia tmkDla.. ôn both sides of this wl in rhe !,edid,lD.fiod dd anoq ûe bbisl' dcposicd to theilrth or ii ro reclâin lmd {erê s! mo1 hrilesOnr n i p:brnd fireshed rwill dlcn homloEFLrrd (t'g lLr. Crtuod l$U, Ui l5 inÈ i ) Ù r r u - rà cn fo tueL lschedsebùmar r r!he,l M lprnrnÉ lqth Ùrr<r rlirhnd!ôlohin rhe {efr (Cmwtooi l9l,il,112 1.1, no 14.!) ThÈdmp Ms initially desùibed as dari4 ro rhe l3Ûl.entus on ùe basis olptery rialysis but a reâs*$i,cd onhe ûnbry, vhich in.ludes ont a Grshern\ d l.ûdoF6!e wâr., sw*ls llrd ii datcsbcsten ùe dd oI the rl} ând ihc middle oJ L\e

Aiôthcr re\tlrnê,t doosir sii!âbd io thesouLh ofL\e ll, wi'i.h appcm to d.F to the 14ùcnlury. J'icldcd a silk inseflmp bra dd ahbbvl$e. woùen cloù(cmwlæl 1931l. r$, nos la6, ra4

Bâ'îard's &sde/crl5, ôllndon Eo)È'Scù@|, UppdThMe Str€et EC,l, É41(mD81)

Exw io6 in 1981 *oosed L\e eùù enl .nsr.bw. oJ the lsikenhry ptup.iy knoM as B.vnads Câ{le Ir wrs Joûnd thâr thÈ mtaond(otrrùd i6 adjoiniu çâns vere pd'i â' cn Èsion L t\e casde. whi.h hisrial eûes indi.de Nas .oisÙtrcbd by r$0, arier a fire in 1123.Th. a.ca besten ire o1d md nd sâÙsws brckflled {idr rubbish. includi4 Ftery or leswhich nist ÀpFred in the sly 151h .entrrv.Fl@ens or sia mol Bliles ruc tuud in drisdlnu tw ddhs i.2.2 $iI one (rtse â*,rin non Seut @n, md rhe ,'lh.f a tulledvoo[{ ùLh ZsDun HrP }tn ûd SsPln ftn!:rd dyêd vi0r ndder-ând tuu cloùs n' ùbÙv

2-3 Trig IÆe, ÙDperThmes Sr.eet,EC4,1971(11-74)

'nrimeiii@l Mbrianr eqrcmc cxavded arTris r4e darcs ftom .1250 ro .14-10 (Milne &Nliliic 1932). hrge a*mblaees orân.rds oJthe1de ]3ù c.mw. ùle 14ih ccnhry and mid 151\cenNry s.r. fcsvcFd but the nmbÛ d G*

ï.ttiL\ ad ctdhins

liles Es r.lâriËlyFups des,strâbd G2 CIo ind C15.

(i) c2'fhe .trlicsi 1Irc FoûF or tuds .:me lrmrdunDins behind the C2 rselrneii (l nly rh. baseplaie ol rhis mtrfront remained, rhe srperhlb.c ((;3) haviûbeetr reôùil( abonr 20 yedslâbi..1290 133s. -lhe dare , 'r rli o oûsudion ol G2 isbr*d o, a pcùr1vbel]wn bk.n, a lwe rbprc*nted ehshere in tndor iù lroups or.1250 ro 1230. a mrn rnDulh ol â the Inade.r2s0 âi Rromholn Priory. Norfol{, md a re'{trir de io.hronologicl dati {,bbi.d iiom thenasÈplare. Trk Jrtu'r Finb ro . dare lder thm..1250 for the rubbish in this deposir. {, rl'at âdeposition dab in the v.ônd halrorthe u$ .qtruB €e'ns ccûin. ltxriles wre reovetd frolnM conab in the rdehe.t dudt Th.Y comprÂe bvo rcol le*iilcs, nmely â fine wr$.dr,bbv No 39?l ind a 2 2 ûi1l holh worn rmnZsoin !ûn, silk bRids (Nos 3e8-l0l) a silkmesh hatnct (No ilsj). and . silk cloL\, prcbâblvoJ s@ish or8in. {oveo in 1.3 Rflra.cd oc

(iD GroFurihcr rdlamari,' ôl thc lhnes etedrontqs reorc$nbd by.he G10 rfthre.r, wliidt isdâtd by dendrcchronoL,s'y bciwccn 13:tti ddl-330. Il Nis reDâlrcd oer ldt of i6 le.gn in. 1430 but L\e nnds aso.iaGd wilb {hj! rcpathave been sepmtn rrun ûc fci orL\e arklâGOne rexirle. À pi{c oI tâbby mm sitk cldn, ryaç

(iii) Gr-5'Ihe foreshôre in lronl ol ùc cl] |mhst daredby dsdn,.lvoûolos to 1351 1333 çâs mjnedNc' a side area Jûoos and pikri'i sÔmnnsdab L\e lordhore lxMcn .1330 ùd a1430The dùnp aboe dis breshor Nâs ris,ciabdtith a $onê riFr rvnl, Cls T.ftilcs were recmren Éd'n sdcnl deFsi6 annitr dmps bÈhiûd Lhc $one wll Ûese indtrde a trlnbcr ol{@llen cloths in bLby w6re, r wd .lot]] paelerned $ l1 â $dt fi.ed baûd in exrended r.bbyNo 4Û4, tuln.nb or a prijn lincn (No 403), asilL bbleleeù bnid (No 4o1), aM a rabbv'

i , - , s

'Æ

i r l.-

l,6tfix

1t

rdim ûr dbs tron shr.h êxdr* Dn'io;cr ù nre

1 6M1ksûeêt, EC2,1976 Otrt(76)Map I (site 5)A sûies ùI SæNom buildirc ws D.Mred. tq€thêr qdr à tæ nmb6ola$ccÈbd piE Ensin€ in d& troû thê r0rà b rhe bh12ùi eoù,6. .bM ùek % a sqænf otaÈ' soie buitdins5 t!'tin[ Mjtk sEær ir\effrRod@q & çhoÂetd 1973 231_.1, thofietd d,rbincomiûgj Te silÀ 6nftrlooD bêids rNo!107. 4$) {ere ÊMred ram a Dii drêd hv mil}ry ro ûe ldk tzrh csh4 , r(i oiees oidàinrinen rNo 4091 ûom a fÛ or: F,nerobe daled bvFbry ùd : ç, maùix b the seond halj or ù€l3L\ ftni4 or, liûle htcr Amtber ôià r orn,hùnên (No aB) ùd mc tui{p *;F or;,ool!roh,oi€ {En homkr*d Fn D asix{hedhj[ rNo 4r0) md ebhr n bbby w in.luùngM pirh *tEd8€q 0.!os {r,4],, wre romd r:6llof âdooèrinèdFdercbêded ioràebht4ù

or erb rsLh.oruD b, I teÀd buùÀ or tuæ Urbr\4 û37&$.Cql.

Cundnan Ca Par* sire, Ald("l@bw.EC2, 1965

ErùEdô6 û dF L"[àr or ' dùolshêd bu,ldfpbeù adermùbu4 ùd dr€ cu,tdhân mLftÉd h6 0f thê rcbbd out êâ( Er ., rhêRomm ldr Dêb.s, wh(h 's dated by mneR rotàe rir* hàu ol the r2rh 6rL6 . E ;æde;ed6-on rhe 6ù of rhe vàI I rcbb€r Eo(h to!€therûrh .hrrcd fràeneG ot a !r ot hu.kabaùIJotn rNo {l4l {lù.h É ,lnor.qhiitv iDs

Pûblic Clensing Dêpôt, Uppdîhmê.sùer. EC3 (D@s.t ), 1959

Du'nsobsenâdù or, sire on rhe elqt sid? oi rhênoulh of ihe \{âlbrook, ner the medie!2] s&etyard ud publi whûf of Dov,!âh, â chy n€rod. prcbibly oJ dre lde I rth or ûr] rzh enh! y, md one ù norê subsquer ûmb€. rer

ments $se reùirdcd l*riles wre reÙ'.rcdfrom rtu dificrenl deFsiG.,|he eârli.r {æ a Ioreshor. deùosh cha.rcrcrh.d bv a hilh pmporùonot mponrll ilurn rr pnbD lDln t na lri:g)l,Li tnsFh rôd!ô .htr I Ùrt th? lorP$orthad rêMined qM into the eanJ' $$ cqùurvThs I r-r'iF ricld.d;bh\ $û p. !Lorn ùuù n h om oÙ.Ll!rn {hnhi!D.ôbably goidrârr Oo a]' T|e se.oDd d.positv,. â rubbÈh d!ùD wirhù i ûDb{r revelnêntdated bJ'ic poGry r$.mblaF ro th. mi.tdle orthc 111h (!tury. A !ie.e of â lolf,rlcpaftrned< rÈ ddh 'rs r(dered I11i uDfonûdelv it hasnor ùecn pssiùI.1o .xâmine dris texdle

SEn lÆVuppcrThmes St€êt, noll9a1(swAa1)

A ï'all conbolled er.âvdion exro\''l â.lav rivcrbmk, tmù which a lml colldioi oi P.tury

.eit4 heanhs âsocirred viù dothwr*i"sbmbâbly tullin!), and a sequerce d r2th andl3tirdtùry rewhemenc ad fubbGh dmDs dtins up 10 0n $rn(ûbry \tre identitied drirE I Ætchiry briel

û) 'tlre latc l:ïtudtûry watcrÛ onts

'n'e û,o{ oroducrive dunÉ â( Slrr Inr lay intont oI r$etnent dared by pôfr.ry ro the ûiddleor ûe l3rh (d!ry. ^ ldrè series oJ coins and!*cnsws rêco\€red 6!m d$e dùDp€ shæingùd ùc wâie io !ùos drc middle l)an ofùesire vas r{hi,îed d â si1u1e pûiod ir ùi as asincle oæntion. Or coits sûgÂcd a deDositionir; bdwe,.1260 and U79 sin.. onlv larer isstrcs or the lo.! .fos .oin@ or H.nry lll {eÉIoutrd l'iLTirn s vmts include a nunberrhoûhi io hm been trcdÙced ro .on'nqnÔÉbthc €nba oI $e n,aivnlôD or $ nron.s i',1270 and a ùr bâdsc datiû ro 12è or 1âter Ircm âprio'a at'btrlouse (B'jr !Hc. p(s onn)Îênjles re.oÉrtd ton çithin this dump mmDrj* Jou rabby{rn silks \nh t{ist in ùe mD!dû ôtr1y, so silk bnlds, one Dhini (No 421)?nd oiê in â silver.bn!:âd.d hblelre3ve (r_o{20) lu!raôûlcoth' Foii ht\ht,l'"ill"ù!nnotr, l sor Nm rd 'su ,hr. srr.d Nil $iùûixed sDinnin(. anl a coase soathâL cloih (No

Tùtit . ùntt ctdhitt

r(' A silk roen h erin damask (l{o ,21) !6ale sûpp\dilr, .csered fiom one d ûcscd!mos. but sudr an .adv dale i)r tl,c pie.e mùnbe dorbtcd ând jr h poinbF rh.t the contar,whi.h fts islabd d thê top oI Lhe a q!.'c. rndlroduced ro other darall. rinds, w.s conbm!

ti) The eÙly rSth{erLlry mterlronlsh rhe ê{rm. soulhrr! .orncr ol the si@ lIeeFoùFdû s wc' c rccovered frcmeirhû si'I. orâ rimùer rrydnêf Those bel'ind II. , serfrent.DDear ro hle beei dis.arded al the verv fld dthe r41h ..ntury or belinniu oI the ltn cntqand me a$ôciabd njlh iiinb.rs d ed bv deùro.,ironololj b 1394 or l.ter Thok i', ndi'ù dr .ân hc diri.led inio ùof fû'n ihc 10reshore a drose lrom th. rddmcnl dunp aboe.re bma,lly dd.d by oiis b .1122 or liit l!!di.s @re rR..mreddmD. a wool .loih oâftmed $ùh a senes ôJlrÉil mfr hced blnds (No 422) I â silk hblef

Seal H@*, rotrl lJppdîhmes stret'EC4, 197' (SÈ74)Map 1 Gilê 9)]|e excddion of a l0.l îrrcw tenctr, trcvcrn,or. Lhd lù vide. reÉ sl I sqm.e of l}]land 13Lh{e.rud ijnb.. rt€rnenb llre llderlje{ rMhrenb whi.h wre dd, l bv dcûdro'cbronolos to 1133-1170 dd l1€ir-1192 hd beenrohbed b;]in bcinq reDl..ed, but â ihirn dmDrmhcni rd.i,,êd ùbd o{arerfmDt lll). A datêof u02 1215 ws ùbjncd lor ùe r,?Ilne or rr'elarer rimbcr u*d in ns con*uctior, md û. reÉtnen. dùùp behind ns di thmqsh bv a tim'herlind dÉh tom vhich â 'lde o11203 or lâbrwrs obbined Pt dr. rime ol lir dÀtrrv i\eoo(r4 A\mL4 Æ..onsidêrPd hbè muhbv l!1, rôr ùrF dn4\ii.c n!od?i - l'hûd\fiom a l.r!e nmberol de.ôrÀbdjugs ior{hich ?orducrior dd. ô11240 qs i@oued, bu( is hc.cis .o siden.e lor dre reuse oI aiv ôl thc ritbtrsempl!d rurtrËfinsLl:bnc. ' snow.on5ider Ir l ' a r r ' dùngo ihe l l o f r c l - } shv l l l i h r . È r {pieLe oJ silkcn cloth 0\o ,126) md pdt or a i'n'aerlooD sill bnid (No .127) {ere re.okred tom

EC3, r

H,æ}Wffiffiî"S*

ffiffiffi

ffii*ffi,ffi

$ffm#'"wiffiOrston H()R. W@t eux L@r

i.,,TrT,iTË Fs t nze tc'stt'

$ffiffitrffiffi*1ffi$r.ill$,Ë.riffi

ffiffi*f ffi.r.{;'ll*-*:"lffi"s

wffi,m,qmffoï"ffl5*'*' '"""t".'*n;i5"":'J,ti Âi,g$ii-H"iËpr:gd trf;

tnèdierl psiod this @uld ha€ b€o lii'rin ôe!ft.inct ofgoly Trinit Priory, Àd3!ê The ffÙsolltrc pii hm bd {taled by potterrio lhe *ondhalr of ùe lath dhry. Om âl pmdùæd 6' cndls oft{o !.ltemed silk dolhs (Nos 1f4,45S).hôdj Drobrbly wd in hlamic SDaid.

1

{d

",.{Hst5

ET-xqir.5

Ê',,.

Techniques used in textile production

The âllrljljmæ oladlile depsds uôn tne nwmierùts ed in ib ploducdon md iheMyrfi{itks made. fte mt côfrnd fibres represoedin rhiswhme {iU b€ di$trs€n ildiùdu[y sir.êtle tehiolôE] æp1ied b thm !tur:lly dêrèloûed spmtelr Præe*s âid tôdls wrqhoftr emdimes Farsleûed fiom oæ q,pe orfibre to @ther in lhe ftedidal Friod lhisadapt.abili9 is paniNlarv noriea6ie in ihe dfttôDmmr or hôlld ôlodrs *hich boiiftd wiouspro.lses fion o,€ cotun ind61rr'' indudins $êspimin wbeel (It@oui 1931, 7Fi Cho'ley1937, 376). rrom the lâh cmrry, srâtures andgùild re8llârions smrned 'my ææcb of rheitrdusliy and æ â r6ùlt nuch cù be lâned.bùut Dmdudion merhods Thee sllnsL no**i de noi ùûprehensile - ene dæuû4lshR ben d.slroyèd md Ifuy debns of tiis kindwre r*r wind d{m. Wnere iltormtion ônrextile pmdùdiôn È milable tm lrndon thisûll be usd io ill6b2L p.iirs in Fe6rene brhar æ$rded nr olher to}c, ihoush ir is trotinhded to inply rhât all rhè dlÆted leFiles

Woolwool MS fie chiel w Âbre used lor Ènils i!m€diehl Enshnd. Iikê aI mhrâi 6bres itsq!,iivw nûdùenl:i io the frnish.d tûbric andùe næe B ùsuu lne mst esxnsiÈ irem inihe nDliqg of a cloii. sheep rerê m[û ndbreeds mt $ bishly fttved âs rhq b€ffe inLrre 13th @t!ry. Therê {eÉ. ntrrthele$. regional mriadùs in Erylish wl resuûns nomdiferd.es in climrq pæûê îd hGbùdry mdtàisisrefleded in asi6 of @l.pricê s.hêdù16datiqs ian .1270 b 1499 (Mmo $73; Munror97!). Eæh næ.e yields a wieq or rqndes ormol a.mrdiDg io ùc Fd of rÀe sheep tmwhich it emæ: rhâr 6om L\e shotrldere is thè bD8nde,whereaswoolnomtheùrit hardbêljyG$nêÉlly ûNhle. written efts i@ly ifiar i!cftin nonashrieq whi.h we mjù sumlien

of @l neee 9s softd inb lhree sÊde. æ.d,mêdim nd loclc or clippi$s (Mllm 1973,L23). Fifty{ne sol kmdæ rêâsued by Mi.hâel Ryder sho*d that a{ide Ersc dneeæ tæ3

cloL\s ton mdie'dl,ndon (Mer 1931, 2!26, hblês 3, 4). FDewols includetrcwidiii the meiro Ense {N6 6and 13) ed â relârively hiq! ærcdbÆ (31)%) ofshortw@ls wre iddined Êom rie hte l{n*n.tury dê!ô6ir ât acn. orlrer fbre MlJtes byHarry M Àpplqlrd indi€E $at . fs clôds rdâ piea of fetwre mde ftom thewl ot double@*n shæp (D! 39, 7s; Hâny M appleyard losmIm). ThèÈ *Ûe a nore primitiE ç9è similarto efre oI ùe scodish highlmd ând isl dbfteds, vhich, 1ik€ *Id shæp, hâd â hâi.y oub.ûr æd m udercoar ot 6ne md (&rder 193113). Natlral brch ârd Fawok Rre also lsedro pat!)m doths, sodines temed {iù dyedtrôl dd sftrines riblry undyed Gæ P1 4),ând d'e pndiæ ofkeepins a fd côldued slRpin a od! nêiliûned by Heny Bét in 1641, usp.rh?ps âlreâdy Nêd (Rydd xlel.,{slHl). AIdserwol hding prosÉre is nædêd, hôw.@s, lo Eâin mûe debtud inômalion âb.ut ûebDes oftle{e used lor pârtioLr clôihd

A leqqthy sûies of!toc* has b be @riedoutbefole næ@tutomêd inb annÈh€d lottholclod! aùùE L\m re *illNils, wæhins, dyeins, blddins, combins, €Jdjis, b@inE, spi}niûs, winding, lÙpi.s. sizins, waùns, tuûins,

Tnese tried a(ordin iô thê w or sml rd[m oie redù to mL\e.l€dins b divisions

Much aenmcnt hæ mlied arcund the lenslhordapre or medi6"r @l and wherher there wa'y loi8wol suitâble fôr making mrbds (ê.s.B.ldd 1956r Rydd r$l 22, 24. ùn4€€r itspreisè ræhnicâlcizdd lneF À .o dùbr diatrusld @i ndins rcd prepeed by cofth.ins, sas pmdn@d L\rclshou! tùe medhBlp€riod. The prue* w cdried our sirft a pzn orwolonbs. Th* we m.med md dipæd iîioa pot ol Erêe consieiry ol hufti oliE oil ù

dimâl6! wlrich t.1Fd Io lubrietc Lhe wol mdDrMnt rbe Âbre5 6om h.Lômrns dm'sPd llreiM.ombs dlld b! hrld in 'hP hrds (Holf nri$6a, xql. b jn Enslæd ir es mr u*il toroie hêren comb t b. Jih.rl to m lDrisht @rGled a combing$rk. An approsiale a'nornl oiMnlÆsrÉî!.d (Ùrru{nrii thFcomh u,lÙe\-ord.onb $i. th.n orsJ 'hroqh Ùr. e,iud ir l,d d.âM ofi aI rhe long nbtuslcavi4iheshofr noils to be qcled s.pdûlv l1t {ootwssubsqtrmrly vofkcd back on to the {qid oû'Ùmd tlÈ prccsrep€ated ud a sualicicniqumbitms reâdy for spimins (Roù leos,7).lvoolcombinghad bæn pmcilsed 1ôr.etrùis in nanv IdLsol F-qlmd ùd fln ibn combs rc knoM tmRodxn Bibin ôl'lld 1970, ?5r M@ing 1972.333-t). Ry dr 1âte 6th .enùy, ùen lôrn hâdbccn modfied. md cotr'ls ro$d on rml kttrêdenGùd nFr.hÀelrsof IPêth bomdwirli'un àid *t at.'n !nsle r'o aharlh or{ood orhorn. I@menb ol sinilar{oolsnbs hfle bænlbud in lÙ md ulb.entury dePsib ii Tlrrrord, York ard bndon, iidicdjns ûât the r.sk€ç not at ùn dt .o ined to ruâl dÈùids{here ùc md cliP û'grmted

oonbed {ool {as usually plaed (drskd) onâ 'lisi,rfld sp!tr vih a spindle fittedunn a vhorlùat h. pcd to 4i!ht the inpld neni md to tuFr ln rhe ÉrioLl liïr11,0 lmr !ùdre. se elârhÊh,med fiom \ed and had a siollet i'r'kb hold Llre \chon in pla.e (Oy.193t,:2,3 );astindlê oJ Ùrj, rjÈ ftom : hE l4thaentu) dcpuil idrnndon FJhdle nnce ùan 2r4mm (n'riD È hiokei) md È made rfôDr oniFreus wodaia71. ad rc 27a!. lflhe ydn ws to be Ery,1rca srin.c. mighr work Hted s!4oniûs d'c spiÈdlê ii r ùnrtns {ch aa a Ft or @oden bowlHo{dêa mcdiml pùrta}als indicale rhat ii rusno reLmnonro lawo lnûbsp in fud i r rg .dwiq our tl'e woôl aid sj$iûr it ldii rhe spiFdle rôuch.d the souM. The dirddod ii shichthe edn ws siscd d@eûdcd ùpon wbèther lheqp;dlr û,q rôftd q'h lhê fishtor <r' h?n!ic.mbrd {dws !,u[\ Z'-i.1.1 n ti. m"djw:l period Gis l), buttfiâtused lor ùe *efrco'idbr seisbd md sfrer sps (Fq 2)

GeæÊlly, combêd w@l ws dy.{l beJore weinr. Inis {âblcd sull moùb or lml ro bedEd in â bit\-l, rhereby rquning les caoiblo;iby in equ'ldar indn p'c.eiFins k àl.omead i,\ât thc rcol6!d lor a leulh ur 1 0 4s \;1! .roo a L{rh{rbry d!ûosit sGre rl

luhiiq@ 6èd in kni, tntudia"

nol alwâys Mdy rhe eme tinl This enlivenedùe cloth s appemNe bur rhe eftud %s nor âsùed in rhe rater dddle as€s uhei unifôrmiûol colou. u. orêGred. lvGted ydn s6 aleue lor bnids and iùr t le€riês wkre snâIqud{irês olcoloured rms wm neded for ù!erdtrs. AmUrer reasn why m6bds ve.schÉp€r in ihe lâb mediel æriod us rhddrsdid ro! requi.e a mmpricared sries of fflishinÀpro.eses b enh ce rheir rdtue. calenddiosOot prcsils) oi lolishùa whiclr increâed ù;surlle shæn ol mr*ds, er ff æpbonwrind soûces su8se! rhar rh6 procs F@ inimprhcr 6-om ùp Itrh rentury (s,l2mân tej,233r. bu rhc hdidonal merhod ôf rubbq thcsurhce {ith . sliclcbn€ or lre*ed ds henisplrerê, *hich n âle a$oci.led ùr\ lincn, hâd

cloo's @ trd med yarn Ere ho.gûe nost pr*tÈio6 in thê Aûlo.Smn mdvikins *irsdoms and Lte fitresl pidês de tuuidin ilrèsftsolperei\othuh trkin Enstand,NoMy smdcn ,nd nêmùk Lcnelllrlen1969, 1sH0: Cro\6ot 1933. 457, ,160, 4631hgsLd 1932,33 94i rngsd t$3, L:l6r4iGcirerL$4.22-29 Hrd r$0. 102, Beode ls44q61936 357 60) Thê n sitjon did m (hèice oblmund the latê llrh dr rzth ent!rv vh$ hcrilvfinished oloûed cloths klNn as sld wri

woolhns u*i slorl slâDte wol md dre prepu6on. ùdho,l ut spitrms, lnd hnkhi4 ddIered fom ihr ot ffibd5 Btjore the lah ]3ln@nlury, woolthat*as too $hôn bbe comb€d vâssômêrines beahn vith â bn, 4 æhd {riD ot{ood widr â 3u1*ins Qdu oui 198r. 7Èa: L\evibFtion oirhis tæl a*d ùe ôbrês rô *rcteiilo a nutry ms suibbb nr sDiminq ad tornâliry 6lL Ho@i ùis oræes, ttri.h E6ale used hr 8laùJir ud obn, o0ty âp!à s tohee ben inhtlued iiro wsrch EmDe : I ntebdùrr czin ns, od 't Ms crdn]g €rher rhrbolins ù,t beome populr iD [bs]ând. ùrds,like wolcombs, Neie Nd in pâis îry *erewden boùds sered on oie side sin hathdintô vhicù lrN or mU imtr h@ls wère er.l,cks dimol rere spreâd aùs one cùd,vhichws held agaiiis ùe lÀigh od ùe olhd c?rd wsdIM thmlsh rhê ilbres *idr . stroliE froton(Baines F77,31. îis wâs ftoêabd sæà hftesbêtôre tÀe wd vâs reâdy tor spimirs.

Cônbins ad cddins endirc æh io hebÉn qried out in thê tuewrkshop - iû 1413,4!6 Stubbùd of Bury I Ednùnds b€quërhedto sbill chelqr+, a Èn of wlmbs. a.omhinsstoclç â wheel (,r, rd r pajr ol .ù-ds(Irms 1&50, 2-3) - ad ihh hay haE bænbe@use miy cbùs !Ûe m trom a mmb€nmrp ùd czrded wenr 'lne whæl nùrioned inthe vill Ms FKibly lor MdLu yûr inb hùks,b,Jk or bobbins bur ft.o'nd hàF bpên â ùinnnqwhæL Îe latte. dr€ sreal wheel ehich rÈ spin:slêr tuûed tudins up, ws mthr iûplmdtinlrodued irto EnÂlând âr abouilhe wè rine ælml calds dd *æ, at 6rst esreiâlb asgiftdwiù the !todùdion of wollen yetr lof Lte s€{tGee p 45). It speeded u! sliûins brt fie ydnks noi âs nne or âs M as rhd spun wnn â dtuD

\cool has a bndscy io lelt dd, mthêr n\ospoili,rg rhe tue of tàe cloth, ihis prcært wseplojbd to ad@use by tulliog wllen hbricsullermIjng iùtiÉ a ffrm bxlure md 6ôfr dÉÉ_1]È pmæs ditrsed s1i!nù toû me phæ ioanother bû ii involEi $alde ùê clùth in analkâ[ne demins e!d1 such as tuiels eâfor orslale huma! ùrine iô ielrrm sleæ md {tiit(Pâtersn Ù56, 21s).Atur rjnsid, n5ê doù Nxpoundêd hy had, uderioolorrir\Rxdcn hmûûs rchbd ùy @r !ÔÈ. r'uli.g had b€ncomon h the Rùnù Deriod, uhen il Es olrdâried oùt by bripling clonh h ldlr hrbs (Witd1970,32), hut itws Uûusuâi in nonhemEmæ in$ê fôloNing @itries shm p€flerned ctolhs{wen nom luNtrôls, ænhed wol wre .oFsidered lo b. nore desiEble. The bsquercxûnse âplds io ha€ sorqd no-ihmrds f.oml{y where the prc6 mây n*r hæ died oltFûlios nills ùe reordêd in cdbal ùd nù-1hernIht duing lhe *ond hâlfotthe ù.enhq(Malanim r$6, n7 $). mund Roùm in Normandy by 1c47 Gdmrd 1947, lso) md inlnsland by ùe hê lâh cùhny (c.ruew-ds.nI3s4, 139-90). fuljng nills rerè êsbdhnedclose to lindon d old Ford, sb,6ord,rvùdsmrth, ùfreld lnd the lrHù ot Ste@ry(ShâDe 1907, ktd@k H. txlq 37: NjcDomêll1973, s). but tullinc by hmd or foot 6 preferred ir.ftin c(llmoditei such s hâb, ædin !€rlain cloitrprodlciru EBons, Fniùlr!Flbders (6uMn lgla, a36)

!ùnins caued cloLSs b shrirk up to âbour a

thin ordrn origim! size ând ro .ombrad ùis irne!.nmè $ul to $retch â cloù Nhil. iiMs dryinson 3 i@den tcnGrlnùe lnc c10th was aûchedto rhe Drallel brs oI lhe tume bv noù hookssrâcd alory the s.htdg6 a! i'.Àsu.ed jntedsb eislfc the cored amour ol shriitæ, \irc.the \idih ora cloth, âtd later it ls'41', vÀ resldcd h sûtùte. In t3ih{cûtory rnndon, bnGrlancs ltre rrc'tFniJy in priEte oqddnp.Sir Rôbcn &nylùi, lor euntLP, lmed i renÈ.Fodd b the pùish ol st sùùÙ\.ânnlsifksûed in the rn0s (Cal $lls l 7s) b trt,i', ord..ro minbin quliry cotrbl md 1o premtm.lDndic*, $.li æ iie imdequde dtrl ôlclort. iic Drâoe6 md laio* $ilds vêreqmbd â æriiion iri 1432 ro'ôidding aûj'n eeBâ.b haË or tÈcp a bnier 6hrpe l3D, rdcrbook

Tô siE the d,)lh , sofr linish ir Na h@ or abeaÉ (æ.ch) ùd Mrked over (oftd) sithbæles (D,rsdmrlL,,,, sd in a won$ tuein order ro Ûi* a naD (C.r!ç$ilen l9s7.110).rh r n :p tu l l d Lê d r ! u ' n ! J àp r rù t? r i r

t*tils, lor cxmDle ton Lhe earlv 7in{cnnqihinhDndâtSutunHoo (cmx{mt1933,127 {).anà non ulh.ûtury deFsib atHaiùabtr, ÙrùcÉrnmy (H:tlr 19& 12! a, fisç 73,3,1 {7) Ho*ûe. in Lh. 1aiû medi.kl Friod, it ws usual 10ooDi itu'th à priroflà4. \h<ÀFrr I q.!Fmr ùe rloth ro , .Ftrl. r"Lldrd benth thÊe){iili double etrdd m.hl cli6 0iâÉft9 (Esm1979. Ir0). fte ptcess or misins i iâp md ctuÈp,ng r roùld beieldÊ1tr€n\ rinrs Lt onlv irthc rùol*,\ô \uflrci.n'\ hish qrdliD iôs,thsbnd such tèabndt O{unn 1e33, 3.1)

By the r3in ...tury a dislindion sâs nad. Éltr.û high quâry'obred .lô F L\at trredved in Llre pie.e (e s. n 2ts) dd chêaper clo0'smÉn tôm rrn dYed in dre hank such asmedls .id nF (e.g. Fls r. 3À rji Chorlev 1937,350). Ho\ær sômc rcol dyed belore weàvi4*s.lFd aâin in L\e piee (Mudô l9$ 53a).

HairTextil.s wre also produced iroln rnc h3in 0ldhêr 'ùi'n:ls. lho* idediiicd fioû medierzl dÈposiN in L,idon re gmt and â sp{is ôr rlsdlid, @sibly {eæcl or {oal

thniLs a"d L10 ri"t

âïed how hans .an b. spùn or fel6l, ùd l..hriques trre doised to côpe wiÙ' U'h t;oath.irlâ&s crimD ând. therefore, io produ.e a dùeadsurfô4rly sro s ôi {"ffns the }r n $^ dicd

;:lJ;q "he.e

tho "H combred "rû $ù'lb

qNc à shint .!tue Gêê p 7r) Tl. mninq ol;ni'ndlhrr wirlr {oo $s hôqftr forlildenin$he other bffdÈs or Lhe .lotl' indusrry, esl*ciâIv in lh. prcdu.don ol .halons in bndoî-l', .ftretr!ônrplimr!rlÈttÉnlhrdorlr{IreiÀi trrù. " c.omlrrfeitiry 'hi ùbvmixiû di. hzrr oJ.âde dd Dis! *ith Lhat ol wôol

Iinen

The earlie{ trtiles known *eft prodrccd tromrlmt libEs. Vary pl 5 J'i.ld suiuble fibres bilu (t'l, 6,bris',!,) ws Lhe princiral bastribft us.d in the lextile iùlustv oJ ûediaâlr:uroÉ. The 6bre is obbined nln ùe slênçhici hâs b b. Ddled ùefôre $e seeds re tuÙvrir Pûe$ins nJudrd edrinq kn'ùsi to tuithe *oody or ufLi ! *m\ rpm!Ût'qhtrnDoluled ri!.' s ad .arsed m u4Lc$ai detch

dtunc rhe $ems ro cmb.illle them, b€atis(breàiri ,h. ,l trd çd' Mth se 4 m:rFbnfiki,s (*utrhi"grwithJw id.n knile ùànd drrn boàrd ro I ( ilr. ribr\ bnm he b d rd.ombiru d'c.kliry)modr Fd eq ùd r i ir th< tuq fibes frsri".na (Ba' h rqrT lçr,1r AlÙrulsh tj' naL'-1,iiredonulM{orn} fbrc . r, L\fo'ghodnonheri EuoF nd ws senenùv spun 'id' az rud r Llsl Ùre b 'sn4sofli 4 rrom eÀ !vÀ'ioF n rrdôn helhhLhmll4irj! (Liq\ 5456. Tâb1e 9). lhc nabi.l colou ol lircn is bIrMand. drorcJo.e. nws olten bleâclrcd to {hibn itcnhêr beile or dlPr wdiû. ThÈ wâs a slow

;dJcd onsidù,bh ro in Lonotrhê\lorlr'Lii0êis l.om abou $t turhhs or Ùiq b.ror therh'lL tmûtr $betr shh k< àvJiJbh in Ùre141\.story (nùsk 1973,3'l) brt mos rc.lpcspmbàbb LrÉimd"d l|ron pd! llr licàl pl os Itmsalsoromon tù8re. ûtr stre d ùf,ei rvtubbins ùe \lvri wth J lre,Ed, hr iisph"ri',1qlass IJ (aûby 1952, 327t *. âlso p 3l)

îèù^iqa æd ia@Nb tndùiar

silk'fte ditrerenl slages ol silk nduâcture liksisdêmùded3k êd Iabou (sblêy1x)6,2l.r2l. Asa lid ftp the silt flûsl hrd to he fÊêd frômrhe ctroûn ûf lhe silkworû. 'IlË comns wreheated i! o LrcÉ bæin ol wrer b sofrên ihesricin (iâhràl tml; the l@s€n mds vnichnoabd ôn ùe sùr6c. coLld then be lnsæd mdthe w silk unEreIed (æêlêd) (ciddu 1s7e,13 16).Tw çTes ojftêlvÛe in a i! Ilaly ii thelSth entury, ùê lN ræl (eld4a ,4v) onryhich M rhrads @uld be @d€êd sihuthùùsh ud the hish reet @aiu '/ârl uhichmore il'o doubled làê outDûtùy dabling at lssliùû dre.ds t bè ieeled side hy side, {d it hconsiderêd rhâr similâr nacûin6 wre Éd inrhe medie€l peiod Aoo@r 1950, ærLI6). Thedmad ws 3i@ â wry slisht t*isr by trosjnso'e nlments md pasins ùlin t5rcqh n *letbetore vindids lhe thrad on to the ræ1. Thefinenes ofrhe rlùeâd dep€nded upon how nûry

nlzmn6 wr€ reeled loælhe., since ùe silkfiom a single co@n vÀ too ffneb be usd on j&oM. The âim Pâs rô pndm s loia ûooùlàreâd 6æ 6om nuq drc$ dd kDB but sluhsMerim6 irned and dris |5rsd Æ ûs€n 6rihe s€fr in ls.osUy àbrics (* F,,gs 6s, 67, 6a,70, 129), Itvæâs rasilktfi ailÀenble % haded(Fis 3) sincê ecoG re roo d€li.ne b b€ tuÈporkd sâ'ely. Some Bw silk es sised (LhM)ro forn a *or8€rwo ùftad, ,lhougù this prce$ hs si.Ùy 'meæsry, md ir erlâintDes ôJhea4' trbri6 dd forbnjds, hâimeb ùd[jng6 ull1m sjlk m ddbled dd redoubledG!trr 1966, 241-! Dâle 1923, 73). rvarer-p'reed tituirynills we inroduced 1o sDædu! Ur præê$ in Ibt dùins the 13$ cmrry(tû 1939, 995; *e p l2!) but rhe did notsp.ead inb mrthen tmoe uril tzbi an ! ûFsjlk had been ræled ôr ùlrM, ry remininsglo ws 6uly boiled oû, altholsh this ws nôrdeys donê in ùe Fr tra$ or in the e&b medi.er€l peiod Gæ pp 32. 35, l4l). ând ùe sil{ NAmshed in .reù çater dd dried (RooE 1950,2919i Roorer 1966 2121). At 1nis sbse lhe silk6 usâIr drd, o. bl€ched with sulphûr it it

ryest ?inq, às àlÆdy modored, plard z qbl pdin Edile prcdudion Nituhidves trre obllinedfion ddq lihmq insæb æd nolu$s but mlya rN ffi ùsed on a mmercial sâle dd noiol rhe had ro ùe imporred inlo lnslùd Merrhm,3, wllaq.ransh, sials€d 'n pùri.ulàr dys ùoad ûrhr /itdi, L), $hlh @ Àblue ùe ùd ms ùsed æ a b€se lor olt*côlùre,ms in!ôded in usks ift rrdon in dre 6rn oldri€d b,lls of pulp.d lem (Câtus$Tsù 19.44,36). fiiese balls h.d lo hê @lErised, noistercdmd lelt !o ferment ât ftnæmtu6 nd qceedins5aPC bebre the dye *a @dy lor use (Sâlâtu1c23, 209i Hury 1930. 2t?). r pbp€dy pÉpred. voâd balh cû bê siorêd fô. s€Dl y€rs*idrout deterioûtiû. ad it is not uusual lo 6ndbequesls of casks oI Mâd Adm de h Pole, âlrndon ftclîsfinonsei bequeatàèd fôr 6sksolit rô hÈ gdddÀushrer Kâùerine in 13s3 (calWilG ,1, 3). Supplies nâinly crè 6om PiciJdydurins the L2rh æd r?th cmtorici suppleftir.d

in thè lâb lllrh ûd llth.mtuies Dv intsns hmBFh,nr d,c r,v Combie\ (;crmdv, rimbnrvaid l@edo. (C!r!ç$ilen 1953i Chjlds 1973,liri+r Dufi s thèl+rh dd lsil !cnÙn.'Ùr

rh. otrkh ul l andies/\ B4nrll\ Gdlt thêMLh i'L \hrh nisr 0r rhc lc\rPJ dri|$; * "b* rcd$r l . l tu 123 aq l ) rh i 'Msdur ti ù. nLmes !lreÊ mùç dv!nou*s wre..ihLi5l'.d b{!ç ollh" riler'!0n.kr su 'n}

Madde; iRubir /,dm,, I-) ks dotl'er in'Donùt€!êBbledr.d'd 6F0!ùrnr i\+owb\ ùedreft\ lLs hom derin, i tftE\ FPeÀiÈnliLr and br the kl 'l d thÉ- dàdd' h6$:;r rho*n û itrm ù. ùmr or ilû lindonDyeÉ u irmr Llnli!€sùlJ 'n! rooLs iotÙreLaE\ ftld tl'edra 'l ànrordt'(s!!hJ\r!ni nr hdsb 1,.:oot.d ro the rLl&b.hk rhPd!! crn br hrd sne d. I looka t].c orJir'Écnt shâ0es rd lrcs ùiFd Nith a r.sldue-h(h m iiL'c, the\hen.dl umostiuoormàdddr lLàlc b*t reonld omd+t5itsmI ndÔndaùÀ 6om $r lLrh to ùr llrlr.{Iuireseirrnrd É9r 16€ 9). Tlrsc re not colmoi i'lù. deùsib whi.h *ds to o.lnn Lhat dvein! cùâry€d rrcm being ado'redc hndi.ÊJtto a

A môrc e\Fn\r r<d dlr $o ul bincd bomùe r*d ooDulûb reÊftd h rs Rftme\ uf

L\ sil roÙd shn E lr'Èmss tslomllii \kdiErrer' mrÙumre

dvc qas obbined bv coÙdiiig ine bdlics oJ ntn;e Gmrl.s dùn( Mav orJuùe shen {àeir eglswrêfcadrt b.hârdr.d,mdbvmâIi4a},drfron sisi( rlf cÆs ûrr vinesar avcrh{ker &\rbures 193r/9. 212, 2ltl6). It Ms beo Dækod'n Ledhû bas r' r srrrpmq'L This Llv does o0lùrærLohm bed'mp.de I iiioLncldd bdurrÉa t2th ftntu4 br rMoqh nhÀ bR imûffed on mol ràbrics oI the Romû p.iod its lseM! '/tubÀbh rerLlrrd Ln thc Mêrne ranriirN f tesd th t r i n ' ! NuMÔl !o ' l \ ' \ cdw iL \iûûè rc kioq rom n'.'i.,n tmp€ bÈNAi the 5th md nù ccntuies tj'owh i! F .otmusùdlon:ilk trsle' R{oftl\rtr! roi6 'eù

l:rh{rnùn tn^l:nd (Cr -wù\on 11'14 13) 'ir1c3.Ior e\d!I.,I p:FhI irr7lL\ 4.:urhuFFed ù BdnÀdrùuâ torJr.ing'lÙihins'ànIor inc kia\ ûse (Cl.R, 1211-1233. 216) Rrhaos

Lait6 ott! Ckthitc

rte i"Ûodudior ol kenn.s into E llrd car b.nk . l t i l - u$ l hd r \ ù l d \_ . "h r À . re '

@reLlt LlchJJ r i lnq urj i i 'G.uredÛ n

;,,n dæ6 (Setëj re?r, 1ji; 7r). 'Ire mii

qNres for rlk jmDotulior or ùe dve âpp6 1ohave btr spain .nd ronugil (ahilds 1973. 104-6). rlthoth eme ruy hm:lso coùe !om ÙôntrAfric md !,!dicrn FÉnce

Ir is bc.otirg dide l'd] dye @ryses dfth.eoloF.al leiulcs (h.t kermes surpLrtcdrthfl Duni. dkr oî {ool laùrics in northernEùsoi ar;id ùe l2ih ccûha Li.lren Dqicd re . r . nd 1 . . t b {b t r rù+ hx . l " . n i d ' n ' ir?,1 , i dD r,rmn4l{(Mn in nonhen, Iiu'.É be$Pcn ine rn rdl1th csùtrlcs flillor & 1val(o' 1933, 15i $hlton1936. 3u0: wJron 1939R, r_Û). includ''srhrêê chtron i{ills ton nin{snurv l,ndo.endrd 1s84, 53, nos 13, 20. 21, tig 6) B' .aF[ÀnuRem Ùk ! ' ù L l r . e ] t nP i r i r p4 r_p+Ju.nsl'\L'cns. hs.oI bren 'lr' lkLl bom Û.

tuù 14ù{? L4 d"pu\ir\ in rliin rn4 |*erN r.À$nrble io condtrd ! it Rs no lonser a\ôoDuld as nhad bed. wriftt soÛfes, nsdhcies indi.alc that Ùchêns weF i'npon d iitoFnllrtrd brd* ne n rlt | Ùr tô 15 r !.dÙ'È\r ; r o r r r I t h . | ! r rY l \ l d ' r . rGruFw \n ll]1a 3b (h'll, aiÂ, r0?, $d A l]endiiD zLOr. $lùlt l'! n o alê d!É\ Lle lincd if, im;bre tu mol reiiles ouGidc rral ùeæ rJlerihe llrh .cnha. L\en $c silk indeasd, alh"+ ii lblv dd. a5 sill br de$rited, the dvcshfiws deredid on threads retrDfd roû a patkn,.LlsLkrlorhrLlil':lÈ ùÉhd (p! ir1 l23)hdh ôr {lùrl d c re d! eLl rm'n : IrLe ùû

n r ê . r ù d r v n i ! . i l \ Ê l l o ! d l e $ À t t Ù

Lr?a.d, /!r,rr U *hnh !ùtr] I h d<d 0n isffo. bDnkLl oE $ur.l b si!È grPen or hf a I

ened }iù ma{ld.f to prodrce sha'les oJ oraue,tu1!ôlLl i{r ÀrÉndi^).1vrifrln releÉiesiu nàrr b\ (Cùu!\{i \ôn rq44, 3,ch'ld!lq7a loi)ll(l}sei iis cultivdion in Ê4li'd {âs DÔbâblv{trfi.h* iô meei llm. dcmd. for mâlses oiseeù, smdtn mm m hàei os.Jl Llrr)nsiE ddic d < 0 r t Æ i ' ê 4 l o m H : l l d a l l $ 1 5 q ;

(

Lowredgcolabufunedslee.

û) sixdrld M]l M'r\ tutoû ând !ff !trd! No 49.vdrh of bdd (im udi4 dd€d Èbbvj 3m(B) Nê.k opdj4or, c,rldmdàrd.hiqr,Fdê Moll6 dorh dFd rtd,is ktrh6, r@dtvnd 4€frrt No r0. rtu *ûrIdar @grns È

Bo|nm'dJdeFnld,4bùewdodr''

G4) wûoifl bbb]Wr do$ {in\, Dûn ors'tlchek5No275'H€ill'lll3mc) wd.d bhbjffi.to$ ùin: diid Edêra No

BorÀâe iiom r hr rd\{elbryd@st

(B) ciôdl pdthed ûu' fttrbddstrfttrin.rtndcdbbb'vù

drkbrmwol No 16 eishi

Ld'nioa 6.n il kàile ,ndÆtia^

I"oonschânses in cloth prdùcdon in the medimrperiod wre lot conlined to spimiûs ând nnish.irs. Na loons were inliodu.èd, *hich {eE$êd as trll æ oldei rùdiriônâl loôms, bd exadly qhm md how ihq cm8 to be acepredrmins mcdin. The cat6t tle of loomkrown lrom Eruland is làe erÈtrighred lMvhich, by the 101b.rhuy, had bæn in F L.er a minmim (wi1d 1970, 6!. Îe @p uspreparen by ùeejns a drniûs bordèr on a w[bând loom ânrl ertndins lhe ft leps romd

Eé4 UFighr r*ùên 10ûd !s idshr hæ

ombâbh hm bffi !-d âlthoqh d'h is mi dedd

2r

pess (I'lofmm 1964, ô3-70, 15@ 'lle$€ftbe

thc cloli b€m of ilre lùser loon lènsion ins visa.hj4ed by Vins cl.y oi slore ftitrh{. to FouFof ends, shi.h veft orêtul! spâed a@r bychajning a ord aûos the I(Ær€ngeorttu wp.Tneloonusplæ€datJflgle,€zin*avalJor*erjng so out a latu€l shed ms Iormed beRm ùe sù]) ùd lhe soden uprighb of thelôôt. The kÉr {ood io do hef mrt b€iinsûe refr upwds with a pi.beaier ol polishedbone and a ssrdôerler of wh.lebone, tud di6n. Difiêrdt $!€s oI ôlôrh could be mven onrhis toon butfoulsh€d silts{ith broken toængeperns wre crosery rinked wid, ir ardid rhelate 9ù æntury, the leddlebræket on the loôm.Dpem lo hre bed ûodiRed ùd â secondnôrôh * âddêd tô it which, @|inmb heshoM, {âbled Lhrshcd sills od lozeE€ pat@ns wid' a poinl repeat to be lroduced noreeâsily (IlâJîès 1975. l6Hi} tie Dokkêdal Dftùm). 1nis chaqse is indioted by the apæddcè oJ ltùeeshed l()zae bils in hisn stos gwes ât Bùka, Swdo (Ceijer 1933, 26), mdaho by the idsinetioi of dolblenot hedheddlelnckêls fiom exàvâliois in Ttundheid,

Ale appacndy in 6e in Ensl:nd dlrhs dreAnslc$xotr p€liod w6 liie uplisht tebeâmloom {hich was pnbably introduced ù1,0 Briùinby rhe Roûùs âlrhôush thde È nô dnd Ridence 10. it ovird 1970, 7q sæ p r). on 1nis thc

wooden bems, ùe warp beam â1ùe top ând Lheclotb beû below, dd the dôlà ws l'mn 6onthê bôhôm ùpNddi in ontu b ùe *rÊwighbd loom, so that rhe str.mrked seâl€n(r'g 4l In Drehison ûnes ând in ceûin counlriec inclùdins $riâ, ir ms 61l1mn ro wâp 3dmlar ù tobùlar clorh on t\È ç?€ of looD bylmDins ihe Hp mud ù sn tud: ihe cloL\odd nlen be oFened nd on.e it wâ5 rêmôv€dùom ûe l@û Q{ald l9&1, 167-75). thÈ rcsultsiin a shotur pide ùa il a raolvins .loL\ bemws us€d, fd which dido@ is lâ.kins(Hofblllm 1964, 333). Shoil lûon leuths myhde beer bliql, and if $ dorhs {nn the Iù€1h0f23.75n (26 yard9 ffrst menrioned in .or"l praclâmâriôns d ùe [in cmhny (lridbriy 193?,r0, could not @sily have ben w@ on i! It isdmicdi tojuds€ hd pidely tàis lom{as Ed in

t?e oi lmn ws zlso made liom mod but a iewcmponents from i! in.ludins p'iley b1æts,tseadles md àèddleloMs, have h€en idènthedtroû uôd sibs in northern md easLm EdoF(Xmjnskâ & NaI jL l!60, g3 l lhonr!6ôn 1963,146 7i Nybe.s 1934, 1417i Oye 1933, ?3 5). Theeùli6t of these com fi@ ll!\.ot!ry deposir.in Hâithab!, nonn OmanJ, ând Cdânsk,Poland.The netbod olbdinsin tlE reftdibredfiDm L\d ua:d on ùpisht b(lm rntud ot as6viDs swd4 pirt€aler or comb. a leed wnted t dF l(M bet'red tbe hdnes ùd lhedôù bêr *hich rhê wÉr puùèd towârds hiù.$lJ. Byurrins Lrre degre to *ftich ihe *rft sæb€ten, tenlre codd be dded b a clûur, ûd thismelhôd ot!fi.rning w (sd in the wavins ofûF in ihe late 131À md 14ù cmtuies (w p 54'nÉrædnad atudre.6rcdon,lor ùe Nep endsrele rhrcaded bet*@ melll ræth (d{E) lo ensue t\at tliey Ee Medly s0æed.

othêr tDês ôr horihlâl l@n rere âle

modier"l Ermp. sine bryible didoe is a6sir It h.s b€en srsgeed, howi thât cert2jrâ6]mmelri6l, doublændèd bonè t ôls, whi.hhtr bem 6ud d nny English sibq {erecnmd.iiic orjt (B.sr rc40.227).

A wdp could âle b€ tensioned hofiæntaly ona looû. ftere de nàry Mys oI dùins this butwiftn sidmæ sqsgesb thât it B â lôot pa-aied omteôâlmc€ fsdleloon Lrrat be@ûore widely dified jn Ktern Elope dlritgthe ûh cùlùry lflonimann 1964, 253-60; C.rueWlson 1369, li4-5). The hadl6 w.e [nled bypùÙcrs b shâfrs which could he mi*d md dèpresed to op€n sheds h i\e wrp (tig 5) 'fhis

ît hniq$ e d in ttti b I ndl.ikn

lnlm in medierel Empq includins the dmw1@m. d.Msk loom, rel€t l@m and low wr!hp6by lood. Thè dÈ*leû 6 m exheûelydmpld nÉôine æd ib-historiGl derdopmentroaiN obstre. lnden, {b dmugh {alrs$of a0ciot Lrdles hæ a .learû rdssiârdiîg of

ihe llm dr8€d. Its key cot)lDnmr w â slBtrm of côrds ôr fulrê bâm* vhi.h cdtôllêdthe Iining of individual s,rp ends sp€ed d.esu-ld inkels @o$ the Mp (Frs 6) ]{lLh depeson (the dwboy) pulins ælected oids andùotàd (rhe {eær) chansing lhe shed md

fisG D@loon $th combq board ùd pulE bors i! miqht h:ElookÊd ii n'ê l1ù .6ùry. rhedûtrloy is shoM pulling dlords n tne !dê,

d,minc the ft( ân elibofû parenr could berepeaied aùo\s ilr cloth (Kins 1931 9!i) Thcn(sdar size oI the pâlGm rer.d or mnv eÙLvhnilês slrovs ùallhc iiare h.rn.s vas ntÉitured ld n,any cdtùrics. \4odjridriotrs iFd ded rhr rddiùon of a.unlltf bmrd.nd pùIryboi to heb .dÛo1 L\e paftem m{hmFm(l,a*cr 1987, ?lj? 70) bul llHr is lifrlc ùlornÀlion rboû Lhem ù n.di.ml rdords (Monnls

îc klnç des.ihed $ tu mrc cbietly usedIor ftaùu bnÉd Nidrhs ol doth æd a r.lramrDr ôr Norkspæe {âs e$e iil ror thênBm'dmJLins.br !udd{ bikuplc$.p:!erhccournk r r ; i qn . \ rÊmeJ ' 4 l< ' û cou ldctsilv bc imtrovi$d. A sl'ddi'4 doice es Lhem.ii rcqùiremeù1. .oupLcd $irh a sâI blùLdtred b.d.r or siord {hich could b. mad. ronr*.;d .. b.n. m,1. Ior bm.adiDE Drobablv ? pin

A ÈL.k oJ bbl6 ordc fion rmod, dler orhide vb one ryÉ oJsheddins dsi.e. itr bv rouLi'u $. hblels toflan or bâcL:Wds d open'ns\q< !re:Ëd m rlE urp (l Ls 7) Irh rar lPt w\usunll aLotrt ls-dflm squù. M pi.ftrd qhroûr ioles. aldrowh h.qonrl râbleb wi(h {x

!*d The sâq qs1ltr6d.d througl, dre holevvl tcnsioned .nherhv nriiis it tom a Jix.d Doint.nd Sing il b th.;*ers ;dst, or by $rebhiry i( bcùcd tstlosE LÉ'{ 7 cdl4}u ,lr9\2.r?l l\lrur.rtiLlutrma[on, h l.ù ù\alrhe ùû-r ù'Ûodusrd {r.Ll d hJsl bJ thc l nh otrn llri\led rrthe Ne of a w qreâd.r Nhi.h helpe'l b kccorhe rhreadç deDh sDâ.ed while rlÉ râblcb vÛeMncd md ùe brâid woti (c.lliqqwod 1332

-I

îùiiqÆ a,n ikturilè bndudir"

lorm,l<ins tabby.{den ùbbons a rtiid heddleo. hcddreraùe as stribblc Gæ D r41). nretrâDc consÉred ol a sries ot pierced slâbthrouch which âlternal€ ends wero ihrêxded ctrâbùry a shcd and combnhsd 10 bê feabdwh6 rhe hme wâs mi*d or deÈéssd; it.ouùlciL\er be u*d on ib oM virh rhe wrD bnsionedas for llÙler luvins, or fired inb a ùùâll bùloùm suppôfred on rhe lâp Giq s) Àr euta erheddlende ttuû a l3r\ tr eûly tlrh{ento4deposit ir Bersd, Nonây, shM rhd€x1]-a (sÀol holes 6r the vdp rcrê som.ri'nes pjeftdthouÂh ùe cdge oI Iie Êam. at ù. (op md bortom io Nlsl wilh pâ(erniq (rte r$3. æ 30)

Piihârigidl'ê'rdÈmrmighlhâv.

Wool textiles

State ofpt€€ervation

rn *imi.irstuol exblesGôm waredosltd $lstu tlÉ\ iidmiÂt ûued bj hPdmpcmLliùô., or ore*fllbon hre to be bm< in m'nd -^npiio rexùre md danae b colod Orcrall

mdrins as ibrcs disinbgnG, pdiculârlv wid'$e Dra*lure oJ Dâ.ked l:ve^ of clôLh in thè ûcb;d .ondiiioN ol a lâEe deFsil- m,les ir dil'ficùh in nmy Gs.s t dd.rminê ùe orisin:ldegrcc ot tuÛins rd ,rrn shins Diserdtn mdbr

bbri.* Sndl fi6 dd come*, perlEps L'rro{nÈqr ns,lr q'Àlonns. @ sk\onêrdeaol, .loth s oficiùL :ppeûnÉ. bû in lau( pics

yhere â nised sûfæs is pre*nt onlv in pâtches,r i! harLt b rudc! iI thk L the renrinr or rtrul.loth Jùjshiis p ftÀ\6. tr hbr tuniig llril<subided ro {eâ or tu FPrsûe dmng DUnaIïi\ pafrc'irLr Jppù6 ro snlmç tho@h theshne on ùe oqa4,lc combd Molora 30 ,rsrdên smdims sho* ffi *hen rhc iibres

Dmqe û, olôr is do 'nore norieaÙle ̂ ll*d eiles de inclùed ro darken {iLrr ârt, bllDresffiion h damD. seal.d conditio.s Fodu.essftrê sldning in nost Gses complètslv obsu'nqùrLnonâl.olourD!.d, FishJsiôtbem!;;'bk;tury tr!]isrqùd'cd. bu' ii 1473,ranlm tstr by M c \{î,i'in! on nftnJ hômBC72 produre I kry simibr Éqd6 some me.Dndùdcd. to L\oæ foud bêlæ otr piees scI{bd br * Ior dyelesting (se Appcnd,ix)Ms ud!êLl c oth. o6 rpperiry ro lrc lGhthos trre orobrbly Ùrê {hLe or oX$hiF nrmu.h sûæps qnl. bd dùrg ùe dârkershadès. fiom ncr blæk to p€lê Pinkish br(mmmv. thollh 3le ofrulur,l *hib wol are sâveno dve rèadior. some stons reddisllbrôwNdvûd {iL\ M dêr{ere visihly trô dificre from,ihn.Ftrgrn.!€ù!c,cs'i' nll:1e' àsrfikiilreildroh lNo ltt |. ,B) ss idotjricd rrker;.i tgtr) 'he mô$ .\rnjF mcdkqldr6Lùf. I iccs {ltlld

Fam.e in âll câses bûl ore prmd âltn b benaddernyen. The tugitiÈ nilurê ofnmv Èsedble dyes, lcal<?ne ofdyeftoû one see to aorherdûft burhi in $e soil, od the ptui@ or usinsseËl difiereDt dyebâdrs for one piee ol clorhhâ@ ,ls codt[.ated ihe L"sulls The uiÉGalvbûwtr aDÉ:tr.e ol e Il@ of tl'e* [ 4nm15oe n,, i'lc" or rh! wietv oJ 'hê .ulôtE {hithi om mit{ de.mpriutr. nÉt hÀe beq' qud \presenr - enrxin, verûiliôn, crimson, lLoret,red, yclloq green, ffe ntrûey, ru$€! 8rev,Ése (drk b\'ê) ôr rh. lxonc dycing and'subtle blendiq oI colotra vhich tuce't studv5usF* ur e @or! , à hàture ut lislish! ori erNn\ ùr ilr. llrlr !f,tl uih cnIriêç (Brid

thelreâves ofth€ cloùs

Frm Table 1 ir !i[ be kn $ât â very high prùFrtm oi ùe texrLle\ is bbrr) @a MlsàDaLamm i rn:l @!uôr.ixdren #ôti 'nc]ûde onty rhe simplen ùrec\hûd md Jot hêd.oistucrions. variev is prdided by Lhe u* 0rdifereûL spiming, yùn $icknê$es, od coloûc6eds dsins bodr dved ând natuEi ltev 0r b'lMNool âmorÀ which æ che.ks rd nôtled patierns, md ân in'PresiÉ râwe d tusÉr*stipes liû sÉ.ial wcæ efdts sondines jÊ

Ihede oJù" llhmc dEposal of rhe Lldlais lonui{llly kry pre.is, îd ihe sienindce orthF ûurk ddiis nchùliisÙErrùJ bll intl'eùnutdifèreir b ndmA!1 nÙPseitlerlvi"Taùle 1, bsethd wiLh æorhû hishlv impoùn1dalina hdôr ihe variation in spiminll dtedions,md rheir âsciation rl ditrerent Friods *iù dirIofcnt rravec Similâr soinniûr itr {ârp md wt

z/2, S/S - tbmÆ up the L,.ttern d a !eâ@Iôr e@pL the diâlonals rd rûe'scs ol a siu,Ddtiùldly whm olnbi'td ùth â baJd{pù,wGted lhreâd. Mixed sDii.iq Z{I)ut wûp.çspun \k3 - qhere the libres dll lie in Lh. smedtr(ùon rhei wen.xiv6à rirmèr dorh, pù

Ihrêe-shed twils

Thèrhrèshed twil n[dê ân e vâ!æâmcc i.0r< Rom:n. ! !!Fd brnLri"s or r.,;;F md rheNerfô! |rcunacnrr L,rlr.ed, unfld ,n otth s wiF hÀ ofr4 bri dc{f bld À l isde{liù the wF*eighred 1oo'n oi thc Md;&rmeminLl G b. wtù, qd, wt,! I 'he eùty urodu.ùo.uf forr-hêd rwillr u\ .loscty i\*!r?d i( rhrnonh r,qdd 19ll1 H itmm r,lir4, r3;5.200_4)Bd lhe Rolms keF ako rrnitir {inr $e rrÈrar'rcbcm r, um. trioq in Lglptsi \r rèNs

rd thc JÀribuùoi oJ'hr(gheLirril m àe.once uder ûqù ocupdion, Ior .&Dte in[.slând in Anglrsmn enererjes, nav 6e duct n Romm lesacy (rltd 1970,6s 72: cmwaôr1933 rr0+2) 1]rcm dnued rh or ùe tubudmroom ir m8Jievzl rncLnd s $ge{ed bj re\enttudçJrwin.h€+rc,(eèner99Lr.z0qlr rnili sindeed usen b rhe prcsetrl day tor sp{ia[srn

lre pro,lrbon nr llrrt€hcd sins,n.(a{lrhmuÂhotr' mnhem LmF imm ùre lfth entory orwdi unlil by lne t3th cmtoiy rhis hadb{ome FhâDs th. nor Drelzlêni Fm rnflNlhbri!- Ine.v ii i! outoui!, nonh RsFrope hJ\ b{i rû | ùÈd b ihê \preôd,frheb.adra{)tud hdizonbl lôoû ûânj0sh &Nânlili r!ri0, 107). which ùidencc ind rês wsbecomins nore Nidely emrtoyen ftor thc u1hÈûtury oi*Jrds (Hoffllmr r9b4. 260. crtu\.wil\ôn tqb9, 165) ind ùùeê5hed Mins \ræmv4 lor doneslic omuDprion on tredtcroons in inndineiâ(rlollmm r9ô4,201). Rlt iusl as ùe rllershedùinduu wi\ rl.m:trhpd ju thc {{pscLsrrbd

brrd. | ù<:dreloum shtrh oDrn@d mortetredikb {horc in sen imbcr or srùr^ Msusl Fmn rhexth !.iruD rhe wlr bcp l!r0* 'G pûputri'y Tlk irdr n n rdoomhrdzùngnabgshtrh +Fùur d,ppildksùrduoffiorLHoB r inrx.e?{ Fn !r. ]1'seu,iÈ$r,r .Tdns sc( ro bè prn,lulcd lo.à[,. ;ret'ràùric\ lù/ r hirh M ûq, t6 rc !*d. rs is ù;pturicc in orher cidos.,.,. md. in .ndnion. rabriBrequning thr.. ù?ùdl*, which wr. $!âl e.o.ding ro old pûdice (Holl,!trm 1964,2rjtl),

ricularly sùitable Jo. misins a mp ùd for oitrerrormsof rin \hiu Thêr \!or5/s jrnMsii rhc

LUrùh bc rnûca\ed E of'h€ sp rn ngsàæLbù bùy!frhedjm wlt

"eviisorhnEhiigpreservpd trd dr ri!{ hâlfofrhe 14$ entNmd tne l{ê l,rfi cenrr Droeide imturbh elidÊnce ol the chansês in ptududioû âr â ùtrcjâtn4r ii rlre sbnLrrd'çùon of thê llorh Ddtr5hlliêsE d frcro!es p€nitubry cu,.d the rnilwears whi.h ùe, ùeretore. considered fiFl

L 1- l l

w,iliq indi.atiq rhd rh. three{hed dvill us

f t \ ' i . uc \ s rLq l i! t h {?nLun dce lb r EL i l l î ùcÈr lÈ r lro5ir (..lirÈ ï0) 'hr rmpudon i t idc of z lis 'Ll Lli{rdq! i. 33" ùri lh\tl.spre P{ ur'ieiu {he iuin do.k rillins dated b a lew d(:dcs1de. 1lr qumti(y is mdû 4n Eh.Nhde itrI.iÂon .lôihs vith (his {cæ h.ve at$ onLvbe{ rc.oded rro'n d.posi6 ddi4ùp b ri'c midd1e olù.141h cdru4, alhoush itaPpcds to havclndersone a limi(èd foi.l in ùe 16ii centtrvNh.n ii i\ associabd vith $ne lirhtkiÂht mionclolhs sith {oo1 bei4 .!trrbincd lirh oLherhbÉ sùch as sjlk. ̂ simil.r pidue oI ddincmetues frcm orhft to\ns and otrùics in noithw+lrtr ûê nobblvTh. Nctherlânds. where rheomDadiie nrcity oI rhe bindins ahcr .1325cont'$s lin\ ns iiequmcy it 13ù and edlv 1'11\ccnrùv deDosirs (vo s{]omis 1932, 162), rhou(hhÈ*c De,.ialised reæ $'cl' as oslo tbreeshcd $iÙs wrc sril1..3rl orthc texliles s aFonpd.led iovards ù. cnd or dre l51r' ..tury

ilo ronp.k lv mqLlths h Ûê .mNè'l frlondon J it r nor ri'!bL< iu \'imù L\'sLd [ , o f t he l ooms on s ] i I ' Û r , . \ hê t N iù \vere ùade. î,è us. or Fi.lorced *lvedrs is,ho@ù, â chreterisil. oI mmv or ùc r,ndoncloths (Ii$ 11, U, Tâùle 2), rhich susgsb thât$s mun hdo bccn sulj.iûdy rnte ù, r.qurc{rùaihcncd edsês ln su0wn sNldd tlPclolhùE srrn by d! Bock{en Drr, who esorcbÂbiv nnlcrcd in the 14th ÉnrurJ. includcsa;âdh m?dê rron a 2.1 r*i[ which È riooinù (23nin$ xide (No.k.ft 1935,.l7iNocken & REç.en 1939. 7,1), md i', Assisi î,e ânv, r ûdlemrn in 2 l sill woûi by st c|Ie (died 1253) hasaloomvidù.rs.ri.n (l)r /.iN) {Flurv l.'nbcrgrsP,8. 31,1. 43t. nô s7) Borl' *., thcretore, r.rÈrively idrow Ând $pâblc of beits $!ven Ùv ur

{rlorhs 'irh dris rwill bindin! a.c not all âli]{ethe majoriry ftI into b$ tvp.s cro(hs MrnrnD ômbcd tuol. {hi.j, is usuâllv 7.spm. nhlitle or no nnisni.s aid cloths $ith mixed qritnins, Nhen, rhc ,ÂDÛ wrp a sodh aM mndl Ùic sspun wn is sr\'ârd ofren 'Ûacn.Mrnv 'd iJr lâûer shN nss rhd My indidctu1 r aùd ih4 ale include clolhs Ddrcrncd {ilh.do; or iêtuc. A sniall mn,bcr oI othêr hvnk

Tatil5 att ctothi"s

a' c not so cleaû plæflj: ihry indtrde cloi]'s !iths:Dm varn i bôrh $ ièms d â mis.ellâicoùsn;'D ôr come cloths mrin\ kôDi thc lù r'{haentiiy deposit d Bc72 onrlllhe2l$ilsft)nr . n d u , l ' , a r p t u ' c p p . d ' i u ' , $ ! ! n È!i Ll.d rs 'hê r sht, lc lhÈ È d.tr lJnm rhcq i \ r l È I V d m \ / l l U n d 0 n J i h n g i l m m

bù(oni sùmens, nmy o1*hj.h wre nadctomlhisNFolo l (\{ ! igs l3l,151,163)

'l1lis ûour or.tollF js.Àsilv recosnieble Nilh jrr

hddomi l r rn ' i sh r l ) r uha r l ' ù ldcF ivi I ! $@, Jid ': htf \lm\ arf!ê fris $

, n i h r . , , o ! r . i d ! ' r i 7 - ' û i $ ! o l \ n n

rl'a ftsoôd quilrr ihn.srd Jrhoushno$.dr.dbrc"' {o c DroL',b\ u'udll}tur,ùrû orthe rivc smples ânrrsd fo. dy.s rou. sne 0o+tive Ésuhl one kern.s, rh. ihree odrers maddcr All rl i{ mnleds ar. simDle diâgonâl sius,wiil'otrt thr loreM rurrn< fnunil 0n brérlr | tum L! 'l i cDos tr of thl Lth Àn l rÀcmtdt.s (ns 1q Cro$Joor $3n. l1!5. no r45iI}itchdd 193,1. 5È7, .os 2s, 29). A J4 {oÉrdlthr.Èshed lrilh hæ ûird spinniis â lcatueil is ako ùideit in a smallnrinb.rol lhe eùlierthreeshed lozens ilills, in.ld iûs one naû Lâb1lrhr ury I.ndon {rritchârd 1934, fi;_7, t029). btrt in orher resp{c in.y are ituiistinsuish

xbh rron rrrôs. trkr, ftu, 7.iu lirr otr.Di<-.isNnunô,tr. u!r!{tmrrinohp.rL...fwilh i \nir,lr- r1Lq,r1trtr rr ntrù{É1kird ùitr1.1

red llrqr (\r 6. rftrr i\i ADDtcni pc':

$nrdg.s 1,r ri I L c\ \!ro jan zlpmy?,n oeblÈ l) dyo\r {L(ùt lLght m kxlir!ûrrfiL.\ Frf rl L[e ir.rd4]rh. us. ol oturrùû oneshfth nrîordni rray oj(L.,n .onk\eLlidees(rios: 3.fis|aùdl).Nhft iô hloodf Far r, N dr,f n(lre.\ercù:ed (Noirr,fi$rcùnLLl rdornDrtd!,i'rtrôr\riDrt.urrrdr i]ndles De!.nt.lrd drp.xi.r 0.5{qe,idrrldi.rirorll rldtnrif,ir r eed thes.ùL ùânr ôrr,ù rr!4ls!: !n1r onl! N ofa.trhi d, dr $dl oors onen daùraed sô rhr nre

Lrr kd \ro, ied dÏFhêd nflls l?om \ovsûody.r. q!rx,,,rlr tuùilrrrd r{ (htuNils drl}& {iù rrùee lhuùlcs {N:hlik 19ril 261). ari Lr{,I\ylLr.h yis nso N.d ùD dù.Èdrd r.r

.x.i1diti5 r cûosklInrjins!â&\rHik111j0.r!).ûnLmeDrioncdinl i r . t r un , ! ( \ n r r rL !9ù : rn l J 1$ù t riunb{ ùr lclle({es fi.onj dr.cnr..lrvilli $d'rkradi"goodro i'id,. 'hÈ Dra.ni Di{hlbr JouDd robf 'ù.4qKiL rrrL,r De!.m rhcdnLn.p rùr, itrrtrLor (nnms itr fi nti4s tr nNsroul liaLlrri\ j:qDiulonlf oirlôFrêdrrre.nÈ( rrilLs O,rc.lorlr hrs 1.Liùn,il +lndse(ir\ii 'neoIt\odrkù.ôl.trni qrk t\o :. f is

fft or .toLhs Mul

l l L r n u l l D a c o d L ù i o I \ û n . d n r N i t L Êde{Lbom lrdi{. ù! d, i^!ri if rlDdotr iri

dicac\ ùd Lhcy vde io longer .oùnon at ihFpcriod, ând a simnr Djdùrc or decline eiPrgesirrdre ouour ôrbbbies 'oEn trm {o6ed vùn(5{ p,!3). At tle sme dme e$ximcnE {ithnd birdùE for dôrl,s vlrH ton thÊ qDe dvrn iùmâf b ha€ o.ûred, indi.alria that I;hifr r;k dacc in rhis bmch of the itduûvwhi.h ms ablè tô dseloD ûs fabics to rnedchirilins dcndd and compdnion wiLh grcling

.Lv.'

dùrts|l.dNi|]sNoR^.rclnZ9uwm!Ûl

Clodlr st! mired spimitrgMostthreshed si[s çon l4drcntury de@sibin Lddù ârê M fiôn zspû wp Frn {d9s!û ldt ,ûn 08 l3). Thê sep @ is.msù ad fne ùd m probably ombed ù€tftspiinins The sæi yh usuàlt 16 L6 r{d rdbcu.e oIi6longr nod on rie reÆe or thedùtn has oftd ne.one wolly md û!n d,obstuingthe ùack of i\ê w. nnere the ftont$rr,c€ is,rs rarld rnùr be asumed rhir rhe.ldn ws tuIêd, br the desr& of bnishns th6ls* lldhs wrê sih js Eq diErc'nr b esli.matr. This di6olt is o@unded by dodûd.

No 7 s:4 ùd qfr âe (B) No3ffipbft LrNo

bry aidence indietins thar dôùs we oftênrèshm rdhlz) Jrins clê4ins

$m€ ôt lh* rloùs rom dÊ!05 E ddiq rorlre Jir* hùlIufLhe 14th entud àre DafÉrned wiinch{ks ând ùip€s Th* d be coloured (t,Ios7 !,Iig r{r or rexrured by usmp dùêâd5 ofd fffent Æighr, or pb, md by qryins L\e spn direriôn pânillàrlv in the *elt Nos 10 1r Fial5r TViIs uith sjmjlar Dzkrnmg hdè be;lound ii €JiPr toh deF;E, c*nokbomàrab loth+ntùrt deposir in win.besrer sd

hadtq deæsit in Durhd (C|{foot 1990.175. nô r03, pl qis, fu L]q crcubor 1979. ]79).It€ olou.m 'hêse ert oie&s Es arleaspârdy @rièd oui by usina difermr shâdes oinatuEl broM mol whreas in these l{dekmples fi on L!trdm the ùse ôfdFd fde appeais ro hee b€er nore usual. Threêshèd sjlls

Fû N. 14r: (.{) we h.c, {rr)

wiù oloured slripes in vrrp or vêft krê âlsdpreet al Ndl.tud NânùI1963, 26.!).'fhê lhick yds ed ld paft.n e{c6 re diï.Iermr from rhose {ryen into oilre! tirc€+hedsi s phich ofrcn haE 2 knûbùry {eh làir hasbe{ u*nly spun (!lsro, ând shich Ms deùEeolelyuedto mdue. wn, naftd innd sùrfacè Some of thêsê clorhs de lmn from nd€lg.q-blrM mol and none appcar to hft bêdtuIed, sugs€slins that ùey w6e â .heap tyTe of

A nunher olih.eshd &ills, *hich apper !)htu bér tuled, haE oloured seledles. I]iisleatùre G more sercrâlly â$ociaGd ùrh hbbywees O 43), but il w.s dùly nd reûided roone lyp€ olweaE ârd rhe hd that t5e clothswretulled nay be nore p€dinenr'tw dEn8€s âresimih sih À p,ir of red edse.ords on br(mcloths (Nos l7-I3,'fable 3 ând F€r7A). rne dirdh a lilht b11M doth {hich has Liree cords ofpâired ênds fôÙtud ty a narow *ip€ or endsthai ùe p€rdy in a ,lùker ùlourcd yarn (No 19,Table 3, Fiss r7B and 13). Sinste shude rurkinsis fouM on theæ ôlôths virh coloued slRngesùd lhèy RE prcsmably nonoclùome âpârtfôm ùe sehdge. À coloured selÉ{æ wssimilûly noGd on â tuIêd threêshed Mil honNd3trrc4 sheft it 16 a€ned rhdd,e.loL\ msâ lôrêisn iftpôi 0{âi1i11963, 264) od\er 2.1twills çiifi mixei spinoins frcm lrndûn have lMwefr yms *ith ,i.kndri.L elvedses (Nos 1315,20,23. 24. Table 3, FLcs rC ard D) which âl$où on silb gl]m nom 7-{pu ydr (!29).Indê Mple wiù a rcinturced edse, nbe seùndshlf]e eems only lo hdù beù ùsêd o@sioF2ny, pfth$s.anyia a diftrent{lour€n yûn,returiinsâtur rso ôr rhreê shoborL\c oL\erRfrro puÙ ùe h€ry,lor-lÙp otrter coils oi to eâ!.hottrêr ro nEke a sort oJlll* tubûlar edtre (No 27,Tablc 3 od lis L7E). A similar êfiêôr ms soæti@s rtudu&d in morc rcgùll slredses bytishtênins the ldnger ytft loops ro pun d,em Iftlwith ihe shorter relun oI tho thnd rhôv ôf ùeNill {.{. Nr 30, T.ble 3 ùd l.ig rD

No 1ræo ûf â shdiis edsÉ is p.e$Ncd on anyol lh* .loL5s, bui pù of a deo!ârivo friruewhi.h ùs ùsed b iinish m ed$ is preent ononcpice (No3l.lrtislringchsnâdebyDlyins3roup6 of three e s roxelber md th.n qins renoflhes smurs in r fiaef nnoL

fuh3sdd€4ùc€hcdMnsdùn*d

Cloths m non Sspu]€m md'Ûc remainins 2.1 Nills dô not fonn I cohereni€rour Slx @p16, all re@red trof 14lh*ûûry delosils, on bê dêkribêd as mêdimÊradêâbics fmn n m s{pun yrns (No 160, Fig 19).None hre been heojly tulled ând shorn and ûo

T*nly othe. eEnples de all coa* clothsvidr les rhr bn drreâds per cm in both wpod wtu The edlidt pieæ. lrcm â deposit ol làelate Dth .dtury ât BIG32, È woû from Sspuràm ôla sinilrqurity in bôù Nrp ædftn.The14th{ntory silrs i.cludc 1l ajdr nitd spiFûidg, sh Zspq and tm 9sp!n. A! least four areM lrm trol lhât hâ6 a natoÉl brM fldkmd mother pmrd ro be drd fiom nad&i OncZsrui @ple hÀs pâlred Lbreads in dE h€litDôsibly lrom â band runnins aùoss ùe dôù.Anotnei also Zspù dtrowhour, È .oled md6rikhed, æifÉêd for a b€lt, silh wæl lhËd (No1s6, $e p153).'Ine coæ snde, md in nûryrhebck of my rrÛins or finishins, susgst ddtheseclolàs rere dmesti.ally prcduæd. AlprcprialêIv, tÀè pd.bed o{l olsrFtuci6 ùd lmde olI C1Ie, which hâÉ ùttn oÉsûÉd as relicq

35

sÙe !Éde fion sils ol ihis 6rs sEdq the

"anr, grey ad ùroM {ool zspun dNugûout

(nlry.Lmbeis 1933,314-17. 435, nos 56 ûd 5?).

It 116 bs suctrsted thal by lhè 13tà cdtory!@tioÙy â[ prole$ion.[v.{wen wol âbristrre tuned, rhe oniv ê*plio6 beins nne wr*ds midy prcdued in tolFhed bindiæs(Crus$rlls.n 1960, 1&r20q Holih1m I9&,2ù). Thræ*hed Miùs, as swizls ol m r1ie.technique, p€rhaps reprc*nt 4 incrmedialesbse sole cerr.lnly ha€ b€en tuIed ând Drob*bly Lisled ând shôm. bùt on tury it is diûimlt iote[from dre s8ivinsÊaen.nb*hd dE orisiaa]sùrhce appeme wùld h:p been. rn lhe eseof ùo* wiù oloûed siiipes and checkq vhilêthe lùick*ItnL.e ismlt4 it sæms ùùkelythatrhe lrmt}æ subjedd b mytulins. Thethreadson d'e ûont ûe sæth, ûd @etr âIowins lorsrronser.ornrâsin ràe oridnâr obE, Eisins andp hld haE blmêd ùe Els Ùnes or onc€âhd the difie@t qurities of ùe ydns used in

Àpan lrôm its dê.orâtiE valuê, lne loog 1ie oJthe dùeads in dre dias.nzl ol a tuilt 3i6 qri*emth æd rhicknes, but*idr lhe $rod oltuuinc, ûd ùe demnd ùat .lolh shôuld hft dfinÈhed surÊce, rhe eh bulk ol n\e sillscased ro be m advmbaei rhe Ûidcninc resurt

ta rui $c tullng ! où+ t {lLi âdd wmùiù eLdi! n Ùre.implc{ \eileq rd ft pn"d(rini ol r"illbc(flr uii&r$rrv tm. con'$imiis f ûe D.@rn oI the soave srs nor b be$cn. ]]p sinplfi€ljon oJ tdhnolo!} md iÙealro ùdeni'p makds htr hêen 0oinbd oul âsLfoÉ ]tJ ii"s 'o Lhe d{rcà* ut rlF 2]si]l tr'hr riLh ro 15ù enùiA(Nâhlik l9Â'l 'J! 100) The Irdon mderhl isùnsÈbr {it\ rhis erdid, vhile prdidiry dtsd closer dàunc ror lhe DmlÈssional teidion ol

Foûr-shed twils

The hidory ol Joû3hed sill! is .lcre. 'I]'e

ùâsi. 2.2 diasrnrl $nL . bâlânce{l reee easilvrd.Dbd (o a\ hmd looû. {âs conrinnoudv prcdu,id in no.thèri EuroÉ non drc laie Irm aceo'\edds cor$ lljlls çith ssrru. thead. Dn,b*blv $md .n â tobtrl.r loom dunn! ih. lâ. atdDrcRomn Iron Aees i Dmmdk, .500 Bc-sm (I]au 1e30, 181-4), {ere conle'nrrmr.vwiih ralri.s !we. 6on 7-rNi larû in ÙtlErafcas ol S.andinlii. {hdc the didenc. ollooJn'Èishb â sdi'sbdden on Bril6 indictcrhaaùc uDriÀt wE\eislù{ loom ks .keâdyin Ne. otr ùis lodn, {ith a sintre rnnsdnetrrcins 1lÉ ndrâl shed rd thrèe rcd h.ddles,odsc b nedrun trjaht di@ml Mth PrGducêd fion Z,spun Fm rere ft)lloed i" ùcHilsdri 'ltûe .utùesRomin roviias by ii'd Ni[s {jù mixed (Z/s)\pjrmsariiqrctlot rôgs'oo'h I ciriiqbonè

Ds4. r2b [rùd jqio q6 ]!ir nr5 WJd 1q77.rl2O Il' 5 o ltrn P ror tur .lm iq t 0rrrmcd r{ilh Dersi{en in E@lmd ùôlghour theûostRonan Deriod (ctu*c@t 1$3, al3_23) md;a\ ril to be loûd moe lour3hcd tuiÙs ol ùerorh cènùry in Endisi Ms in ludins Glou€ster md Lnrlor (Hedses 1932, Itl3; Pribhard193,1. sa 5). Bltfiom ùe 7ih.cnÛry onûrds ûe.onbindion oa 7-{Diûûiig ând .ombed *ôÔlseems io oredonhab (Cro{t 1973. 103-51cro$ioot 19s1, 90r ctuwroot l$7, r?] 2) How'@i ûe Rry lrigh ptupodlon ol ni'tnlikdôbr.s in L\e excvded E dish nEbrial ùainlyfiodAilbsdon .etrrdcris, ne.ns dÉr il is nôlâlmw r;siblc to di$i.sûish how ùdv ôr thcse

?ùiks t'tt cldht"s

sills virh 7,spun yan are olwol axl hor manv

Four$lul Nil1s lroû 131\âd rthtdtrùrvlnDdon âre .I si'nple 2 2 dialutxl wems 'lture

are no skriu.bùd.rs amonc ùem, od Lherê nlirlc dùrbt thâr these Mlls kre bdil wÔg onrhe horindn bom, ûhdo dr nrr sbâhs. hunsi! trro Fns ofpulls *re set in notion bv folft.âdlcs. UnIlè 2 I siÛ\ ùere i$ liule ditrùenæbeMei 22 Nills arun ihc 131\ dd 14tl' ceÈiùies. r i', all d.posils rhey lbrn a stâll Ùuirairly onsisle propoiion oi lhc ioLn nmber 0l@{ihs (làble r). T.itilcs fiom olher luopemtiwùs shoç thc sde dûc, siih rhe rùll prcpo id or Jourshed l{j[s ô.tiûuinc, vhile 2 Isiùs 8llhlly dcapper dtrlg1P iinr plrce l,lbbby kaves (Kle[bùg 1e7e. 36-7; Ïdow 1e3?,]n. Thc esl EunDcâinigher pnDortioû o12.2 r*i[s h dre 1.1rfi and r5 'cntuies. Derhaps Énectiru a latr !ôanivtionand conrinkd r{ oJ thc wùreiahtd loolnaNâhlik 1e63, 2e.l) blt ùe rc.od is ii{:ô'nplcb,N sone sites whi.h hd. producd import2nt sdence hav, iô mah.id DuÙlished 6om laler rlrai

or Lhc eishf 2 2 hdls lmû dlposib i' bndondailne 6om thc Iâb 13th ro the early 15i\ cm'hlnes ,I but 13 are {oEn 6!m Zs i !àm (Fia

È

Fk20 !i.aû!di4nù sl qis rh! dùad ddrirv

r0) Nt\r lirlrn.ft (.rdlLr rhd.m rre dNsindrs\roALèds'lhe\oolis'nairlyJitr.iô n.diLnn

rÈtr srD{i,,g r0 rr,è iuortLt &[ r]Lnd ofih.\r.nî l,isu\qqt,bisd ri! us4a hrr.d

*rp âtd rldr !îns ôr roft6ri,'t ri ! lûlyr.rï,d,\ ru( Iq,lor \tFre Llris Lqie ol.oloI

rxs dy.d r.,l xilh lldd.r *rrirp n,e orlrer \aswbin q Nr,{! r.nrr t\or 3i. 159. Fis :L).lolh ùe looil qrdiû rlorhs rn,i. r !. . !s.. tôliJr lbhionâlte bRoird erm.nF ntrdê frcûrroxi $:r l nriur (fia\rr3,\. r6nr nr!\feoeal,rJD djfiùerl D e.es of 1[e vme *rmml tr,rrDusl, rrrer \re.i.if,kred noD dÈporis olditfo .nt dabs ri Bc2 rlr L.n.' ù\ , v d d' 'dn.rrrôinrhêptraiê..r osirAwdd::l$iLld \j, larqrrilf 1\o:1r2) \rÀ ùJid ror îdrhd

sÂlÈh bunôrp.l !trû.,qtr rr s 1i:) ùrdIr.rhÈiLoDrr tr$ir lofl oqrrrrmi,Lralri.asveLta:lheliiiis. lh n$ ô!iLL u$d Jof drs sxr Dr.Dr r, . so

\liile i,os trrrn4l :l? r{ills t.e bdrnr.dnHr\ rr .ldl,i o.'!\ ltù rô?) r:rom LG r h1}

dÏ.1di .ôi.piri,l rr,e.idr ot rhe \ùp in theii o of ri I r, : | {Fis\ 2t r.j). I ûetrd roF

qùtrirùoirhêr+rh.êùr{ (\r i9 [ir:j:]r llùs'rrL,i(lorh is (! dl,{\jk inùd Ltrlil rlr16Lhrmur in L.rrLor, po haDs ornr! io th. h.k ôJ

\ren tue rcrnds d rhr eDil 01rh.l.lth c.ntor.siJi.e the! .elrr 1ù rlr D,lk]ns ol M, rcdr \ith

dy.tr.ls (Iien'nL!! r98i. !r) lr is orùb.lilÈ {hd this

?.nil6 a,n Cbhins

Msual dmimton æd dye resb esblishedliûle âbolt d'e age or olous ùsed for ùesedorlB.T{elve smrles savc rôsiilve resulrs whent6bd dd the dye ideniiijed es ûadder vitlrLbræ ekpiions. In these a yeld ù blrfi drt.*hi.h côuld nothc idcntiffcd, Rs uscd rd in one0iece this d'€ rppe$ b hæe been bpnyed ær{ed (indisornt. presunably rcsullitrg i" a shâd.

Seledges on wÂbd 2.2 sils 6m r,ndon inthe l4ti ce'tury âre aI olsi'nole co.slr!.tion rdthq tre not st endheûed apdt non sùetjneshavin a edge cord oI pâ;ed û multitte ends(Tabk a). ̂ n cxccprion È a comc cloLh aom alâte 11th.eitury deposit v,trich hâs a pled edse.orn and al le.sl eight pairs ôr eids (Nô 166, r'Ls248), but as rhe re* oI this cloth is not Dr*rEdib mràl1chm.br (]moi be deremined. Theab*r.e or â s6i.s of strs ctrds whi.h b].srhè sLàin on the eùe ofa $ahed cloù, fêllêdboL'r ùe senenl læk o1ônishiris on clolhs or U'isnatorc md ln.likclihoon that Lhry k e lrrm tonrwer $dlhs Àso, by .oft$ ro L\rÉ{hedlçils and lo a iu'nDer ol l,ùbywven clotrs, .odiffercûdy mlourcd cnds re apFent mons

As EI âs lre€nins . selEd8e, orê ol ore*tsills has a finge oI lesely tlieed ends !'Jo rù,Fls 25). li ,so has a cord consisriry ol a rho* ollôrgply mft inrcâds, rnm abNc thc dd oriheweb, vith dre end of tl'e cod rln back into d'eftaE. This cord, raths Ù'ai formins rdi oi ùpatc' n, prcbâbly maks ihe cnd ol Lhe pieæ oJcloL\ and w thereiÏe cut o{ rd djs.ârded (d

llbr*d yrn was ale Nd in .oûbinâlion

de!ddpdd{&'

2{Jn!Ùûd4selds!ùd?'!lr '3Fù5

1 G ! ^ 0 { ! d  . q d ! d } ù ! n

ms rhe lr ol cloih ihâl Joln Pàslo' was relfrins b *hen, in sÈpember 1.165, he lrcre to hÈ

Wlliâù Pàstor bousht his Gpci or ryne {orsredshechisalûost[lesilke (pavis1971,140).

tr[h lou rd i{illi,r Datre.ied tân.ls on cto \slvetr {irh I obby ndtr {f.^t lhese rê dis

$'ùscrL hrrfi.\ wowr irm rortred {oot haFr!rysbeentrr Fislish sp.. âlirr 1]re deivdionor th. nxûr' arqo rh. tunh \ô,Tùtt ull:e. ôr$nrn4d (Àido !ùotr \h, LrrFdej is slref,Iy &qi{ ll,e erriê$ relert..c s rrr irùt d\rèerF th.i . i5 iD r2q0. B! rhc etrrt! tlrh c.nturyrhe nd. h&l .lrtadv tr..r 'r$Lerred rô ihê.roil, .lrruiqe honùne oÈle nnnhn, ,h\ aûdayieJr.n .a.r'..onlt.di! LheltoltsLrf larli.mcnrf rrrl 15 nF rori orAylsl]n. liiiGd n 1irl.nLrthcrq(. r jL,rùngrtirsr.ft ro r NLr ,/[neD lsakù. 1923. 2?1 S(or 1939. ?0'I1'ruql,o( rhe tJih rùd t5dr cùnu i(.5 rhe DrG

\o oÙ{ rh. worneds b.ins lrud'L 10 rionrj.hi) irorr uL rnd sraliiis. .nd .xoo,Ld r, ihecort r.nl th.oùsh rh. lofL ol Ydmôrh (crG

LqLnh qn irr!!. e iNrirbtch.rDcrthaùrulLed ddF, be.x$. r. lri .{1d 1âb0ur ùFÀ!r,f ro*r The! rrr,À qhred at hunt ïnt

r ûiedi{rl r,À.oftG thù,fe rori.uLny lùked \nh ho!!,lotd tùnjdi

(Nnon.neÉ for ù I'ant sLdtr.Ê h|d dr.$tuc or ù{ snùdins dd {lrilf e ieronrnrerler ot rhe dirgorat lik: $rrkl h*r dm*. h

lriqe ftêse iLenx {.n njade as Dilrl:roods lsltôtr I9È!.203) ctorhi.s\:s ù Èombue' bols md tlr..lâtrf (*ruê ôrrhe doihræ oarru, ùy ùstut ù. hos. bt.rofe l]rftdio.ki,,ss bccxD. t uÙbnl! ariit.bte rtdj.udLrd soALed hor h6 b.ù idq{ined nod ùrh

.rDân i & rn. enl oL thc r3rtj I cr14 *îrlèdrms r.kenxbroâr rorùedôrhiùorth. kri{hLlvqde.s ro C!ûu: rd e TeDoh^. rûd t;lrr .rr I r'hr 01tr l-r LrLn it. $fro10 , ) sh i l emFrAr iL , l t r rÆbou lh rbJ n ro ' k .n|uftm rd NoBi.h i1r !' mrr ltothjLLs ,nspre oi aremprd pfohibido, oû F lromds

Non-ùostcds wn whouy non Zspm

or il,e loLù.sh.( ùills nô\, D nom ZsDtri \rnt rh j h l i , , n " r ro rF r co l d i , , , i . r L .u , L lm nc i? r ! ! { rar. aro !y eb!]l)les oI .oa, Âfr I lodb Niù telslDi 10 n.iit! F m ir borh sr$.B FûLrlrd trilli R&n vhôtty ùo( Sspû !r.n a..

r.,r r, .xnv tSrhrenbry d,DosiL a hearityiirlled rnrirf r drjer â.orse doù ndletqiri

T$ills wid) hixe.l snmi'gh r . h È d s i [ . ! i f h m \ , ! j n n s ' o L o r h xtrlm dcpôsir! o rlr 11di trid lltrl! 15th ùdn.iesNone has ùore ihatr 20 q s or 1s pt.ts E cnr

fiet û<-es r.!?. tùm hrio. .drrd brûM orlre!$!oraf.,drLrty.ors.lfis2rt. th.\oot\fi.h usrrrrr in.Lud.r hdr tn. rd !),rsc

doùrriR.orrcd nû0 fte z{pui ,am hN Iidder 0!in. tr r shûls.0rh c!o 16s.Î'bte o irdt.{es$xr rliir yîn t\rrr x:rp Dinocnr st er ot trtrr!.,r1(ltor.d\rôl v{c soDeijD.s med to pniî ùe rlodEi

.obr.ed sùroes of ditr 1 ù! vidrhs (\o 45, riq?7Â1. côlo!. efeG &rt aho ùù,r,;rd qil!x' ns ol di!(ctrt ih {.rnresses IthÈEÈaddll

F:c26 ùâiæ doù sin nixed sPdiigEetii2'2sijl'Nôlt€'ion'lâb!nl}

etr6aid mnÉd $ini4 CA) Nô 6, (B) No

aùlnddto.h{k rhâL itcô'formed sjrh *hrÔrvreldarions âs !ù lensth àid çidth (Sâl,ho 1923

'Ihe odrerJou^hed Mills lilà mind spùùinsinclùde one rrom . nidl4ii cflrùrv deposit@n frod ombed wdl *iù I much $Itr spuweft No 443. T{ble 4, f-E 24ô. Trris sas a $Dc or.lôrh norc comon in earliêr enturies GæD 30. Tlùee otÀers are ùedim b coaÉtublicswhich *Ûe Droùably tu[en, û c alông slrit orahaviiy tullsd v@llo dyed lith madd€. fion m€rly Isihlohrr L!p. Eir cr bE +m A à ror'rumer ol rhe loollci fuiÙ*hd sere '0 b{o'nc6oulù 'n the lâkr rsth dd 16ih .€nÙ i6

ir hJ5 b€.n 'G!5hd Lhat the ( nrhs r" an,leerb. LiislnFEhed in medi6 àl res'Ltjons :su'itulled md @ or lon! lbplc mol !tre 22MiIs Mrb Hofrfrdn qudes desriprions d Ûeclôrh tron dftllmls daliÂs ro the Bù b 15d1@rhries lsm ihe nmislr toMs of Brlges rdHondsôoorê $at sqse$ a b,lmced lourshed

{hde a much @roer ddk bô{n zspm wltljm *À u\eU,lonesiLlê à 'ghter<oluuredbIrMçNnwefr (No4aa,F'e27B,t1cA) ltn|ro*iblerh,i ù€ tbrL btu{i ùr6d' or'@:Iv fùmedDrr or i sbnjns bodÛ sincê thev re not rè;âFâ 6,rtl'êrd,m lhc ùcbof therlod',buLdre;iee is (e J@entary to conlirm ùis inbF;ælaûon. No1 .U clodrs of rhis 8en?nl STe h@nixed soinniq Dd rhere is one piee from a lâre]4rh{ùrùry depôsit xhde the ,Tn is Z-$unrhtouhout. li hæ bæn sq$slèd li'ai rrv siûi-hr crdhs ewred lrom 13Lh nd 14tlr{eoûad@!E rl Kiiù-s L !T r I NMrsÙÈupoû I) f cmdLe vÀdml Lcrld lr)?7 j7{-7, wJLn1%3. 3l 21, : tB ol I où sh .h Mc rmduced inNoMv and lolæd (Hofimm 196,1, 195) 6 wllas in sDuin (Chill4s 73, 10,1). iire latur s!rce-"ina nç to cmnent m rhp ûidl.,lEadd'.irlw dooritK:rhrtwLen nLhenLLrdr.of thet5ih; ia lir3i6q1dn,r E 'sbd dotsthc.ldhs *htrh !ill b be msFded br Ùre hn8\

t,ill ir is desoibed as a wæ wirh a }Ùp and .wfr face mâde on a lmm wiL5 ror rê tes(Hoôlrm rgtu. 261-5). Ir is a po$ibitity ôdene ôflie 22 sillsftom l,ndon mây have heos@s, md ùis ârsuent È strogthensl by âind lioD r r&h{cntory Thâhes riFEnk deposil ol â lêaden aûlnase seal Jo. a ,Col.hesrDutlh ç, lhrh i\al'Fd LU: srll p{eorrrsorisin:i clnth (cÈùtr E!:n pûs otrù! Îj5 A J2.2MllsrFntom oig vde molwln o zsDuu!nr. Sspu re( ùJ 1b rhre:d. Ér h n boLLrsr.temsi it âlso lm . reinlorced *lrdaq 4nn!ide, wen ii râbby mæ {nerherthh sv was4Dical oflàosc made in ûthêr rMs md ii ê;n;rcotoriês È ù.ertain bui the 6e oI friftd $inniry cùld p@jde m npôtun p'dc h rB

Six-sh€d hrilsAsmâllbutEry nheijn€Fupnrt!rhnenûrytrcrdrsr.inàqir.\hedbinLlrnq(L't'tèsr Ttrryiicrrdê fra!ûef,E otup b fof !ldh. non rhedeposir ar BC72 daij.s to the ssond quâder ofure 1,115 cenb}y, od lnrce later cxdfrDles, Mfrom Lrro raG l4th.mr4 de6i ât Bc72 dme fi on. hb r4ih or emly rsrhrmiury nù oiastotrc lmdêmbe at MLriTd. All mfe srffi f onfne, zspun w^led ym, md are dedy skilted

bntrrandquùtrorùe!ùenNry: (qrDhotosDh, sde r1, (B) veâ€dimam

p@re$iorâl Drôdd. A eaù pide fion a astteâtvooAl ORijssl, in lhe lnw C.ùnries, dalinqiô lJbz ù: lrihcùljrr is the ôrty cunr@rùieffde oI luch à âb c so hr nolrd fiom ûec,niineit (vùs-c mis 1933, 35-6)

The !}!€ ol mol lsed n' the folr edlidMples triei In ône .lôù (No {a) n is a rryfine neeeblrÈ Nirhin ihc merino.4e, in $ro$ss Nos,16 md 491 it i5 in lhe line b mslirnnnse, {hile i. nle fturth 0,Jo ,t7) rhe wd hasben identined æ coning tm â dotrbltroftdshcep sincê k@ hairs âs *dl as line fibrês rêpresd Grarry l\4 Appleyafll oês om,. Brt aXlnè ,nms shi.e and lhe dias.ni Mte d ûeÆm is Ery didùr. Tllræ ofthe tnsrnenb tremprnsipd Nos4dr3 f-s23r. àtrhough rhêtrs,e i. rvo snàn tor û'p oEral deskn ot ûe .tôdrto br ddenrined wirh .erbinry, and dslr .dbeingdiferentshâdes olpint atrd rêddish btrn.

I:,nik: atu Ckthttq

aI kre apùtrsily Diadd.fnrd. No selveds6are omscrvtn. but frùû ùe @dcnft onhe lounlcloth. {hi.h is Ffterndt. llr \r'rm $iù s[ahtlvclo*HpÂ&d rl}cads md be ùe reri

FoturÊly t{o ÉLhcr lagd pÈes rùr 1rvived ôfdre beaùrilul tdiûr.cd rÀbri. t\o 19. r1s29. Pl xq) BoL\ shov deat or dre sme rell..hmn D.tterq ûe l@ymr dydl r.ddÈhlinkmd the wen Fssùly uûdycd. Acrc$ the .etue isa I'îd or similar chsons bût rvden lrom i reddishriùk{êfr !?msinilmo(h.mç 11'cbândis ed!Êd ù en.ndcd hbby vi{h the {efr passirymd.r md oÈr three .nds, hâr r$er iû â liahrou î l ê , s i rd h r l f i ' l h i l l r n t h "bù l (ùMh lwLlû m thc loumlh,i Ùe siÙ u@LFi orL\e reb Boù die ren tl plrplcyarnswe dFd rnh na{ld.i 1lrc maimt heistrrpr*flcd ol rhc cloù is oûly {51m, and i ispo$ibleth.ttheso64ûe sù'n.lro asidedcn iÈ bdl o, a nionochrcme Nin wæ oIdiaônal si[ r.rh{ than thd the wl'dlc làbri.{æ Paturned virh Q{d tli.v.ons

The |pÈùân.c ol si*shed ffi[stom deoosirsof the lalÉ r4rh cenbn is ved dif.rc.t lhe{ee È ùe stra, di4onal 3.3 bvill bri ùe.losely 6cûn $€lt (o.ly sllshdy æriciFied intho* fabric produced eânier iû iJ'c ccntuI]1hides ùe didoirl {âlc. giviû ihe rabrics ùe

look ofsâlæn nrher thû tui[. ex.êd ù4 ulftesleen, ùe MiIs ûe r*Aiblc. One piece aùp€æatfirsr!obe o nâEnenb ofdon5, one tDeæd oie .oær, joincd ærcs lhe middle No170, Fis 30). The mæ is, howei continuous,làe 'join' beins a sirsle lhto{ ôJ .2 d\reads inone shed, wid' the rminsoia sinilâr.ord m inrftFl rho4 fuine' àlong rhê loom lengih 0nmp side dre !êfr w, Lien *ly bêàkn up cMinsthe wp by a erio oJ5* on ihe otherlhe eft Gloo*r wiù a ftû 1o y:r! mdo ofon! 2t.It ensmobâble lh* L\È llfr cord es rhmm, Niih jrshil tu rwl'ly bæk imo the hindina lo notd ir6rm, 10 Mk $e dd ôI a 1enÂ$ of rlolh. nd,Llrerelbre. tàe uemly{@! æa wâs rhe beai}lins oI thê ldonrpirc (se âbft, p 33) oUrerLeenb or a *eftlæèd six6hed sT1 rror iher3srs d.pôsrt at ac72 ac coEed with tuFs ot{ [ sÙt$Lns ùd pmbàbry bnerlMof arnÊnic\,Ior71 Fqrso) nrDie!êfrcmMUfÀhofâ 6ihTa1tr quâli! vin5 â ùrft ro {ârp ùreâddmsit of,l.51 Th* ltirFepondear fibri.sae very sinild in app.aru@ 10 tç. lvrli Îâced2 2 lrills from z csbmpôÉ.r lâF udrcnruddeÈsitin t ndon L>e 037) venljrd 2?M[sdnrinucd to be produced inb tùe 16ltr cmù{hseâs si*shèd t{ils appùmrLy disaprreddûiÀ', the ezrly 15û .entury. The reâûsadon.lhêrefôre, ùd the sne efect cou ld b! obt lnedûLh ls efort in â loù.shed coNlrlction myperhap€ a(out for rhe limiled lilè ând disributon ofthe& si*shed mrsteds

Îtu unusuâl .hûmcter of ùe bindins, ad ùehriel p€riod ol ùen apptrmca, point lô rheshish qu.liry so sbds beiis proJu!"d m , spedalsen cflûc, pdra in Nortolk wh.re me wrded indusfyE con.eftâred (suron 1939,201).The wft{hMn Ddh has l€en .ofrrared bsinildbùds on l3rhcntuly HisranoMoresquesilk lâbics (Pribh3rd 193t, 30). md thc we]l.6cd chucler ol lhe lâtd six shcd tuilh s*msrler, n heê bd delencd ro imiilk ûe r* ,

Tabb) s€âr€slabby mare. as ib old nme linetr weâve,(/r,aôt,rùrg) impùes, næ dw]s bed clos?bdMrtrtn with nà. l],e bidjns hs @pu ùtur4'ires pmduæd fron ether Jdmàl or {Rûbtè

F'l33lwôGÈdbbby'No397,6on.labBù

fbres in tne Roûan Dêriôd, dd ib appared dec[ne in p0stRonm EmF @ bs ùnly dplâioed by rhê dûp mnditois in vhich Imvtsidilês hft b.en pre.c^en. SLldy or mir;âlird brile rmùin5 Éom ,{n Gsdon (êmêbricsôf d,c 6rh uLd 7'h cenù'c5d'ossa resxtrrd i sLnêrÈæ,srch asKor,an inûeMPDnrpodiôn ol bbby {eareq eme csrt'inù oftuol.Itisaopùe " howæi tom other m.lèiialdI ùe ftn b 10tà cmhri6, sd ftn tard in rhenorrh, ùât rhe êmphasis % sril m sills tor

A Jew hbby.wèn clodis lrom Llndon dnibnthe ruskd yârn ùd sûghdy opo.bxtued, bâlæced reâe qhich cha@kriÈ many ôJ ûe ôtrlier tabrics, Fnnd:dy ! fne rcded trom TL74datine io .12?0 (N0 397, Fe 3r). lese wôredlabrks, hNE( ceased io be Dredùed in Nquùtity. The Ery ditrereit aDD;dmce or mdrtâbby.r'lr€ clorhs from t4th.drq deNjrs -genemlt wolens witS tu6 of a nâD - shouldbc conne@d vnh ùe csblishndt of tullinsnills. ùd thc prcdudion of clorh *irh a finished

Ttu sl,ifr in out trr liôû Nills b ribbies È .èlc.ted very .ltr\' in l4th and lSui{entq htils lron lbdon. Tabby 0redomimr6 i. ùetdbles re.@red trcm â lâre 14rh or erly t5ll!ceni4 fil of â !ùderobc d Mut76 ând in æ

eâdy 15Lk 'hry r$4i,ot dmp ai lL7,1. ÎreÉrceûr.ge ofbbb! !e es ù ihe Bc72Fôup oriexdes nse\ rron ,l$l in the deposit ùI rhe rl,{sto gftin rne ht llth{.ntur dock,illi a Asrnilar tend is rre*riEutuÈ Lr cxmDle, bbùy dominâbs ùe lexrilehniis dri'E non dre 131h {o lôrli q'turics i' îrcNelhenand\ O'o'stirmis le3, 16, tu 3). the15dRcnh4 mderi.l rmn L\e nonh Cenmrlù{ùi or Lijbe.* md HTneln afidor 1982, 177)and rhose ltun latc m.diMl iieDosirs i. (lsloLhr, b.r! Dir.0;l0lr lth:\ bën puj FlvrLr mone r< mdiLql llih ilsulàtilns turFledish and r'' cn.h tsns .ll asp*6 of p|odùction *em to bê dcalt *irh: rhe wol. 1ù,1s. diù.nsions nt dre$iis ôrùc cloth, indced eFrJ1hiucrcpt L\c acturl ltaviig (Iloffrm 19m,2m. û,26) TIF bindiry s?s aprddllj' nôr.ônsidcrcdro be or $(.h inooûnce qhs lbè {e.E ir*rMs ro be ob{ured Tabby weaÉ. rhe \ind!5t.olsbucrion. was lh. .Lùick.d and casie$ torm|p.f and wvers ro ûod!.e. ,rd the sesd.1.e which resùlied Ms nkd for lârcr rinÀh

Broâd(lo(h wN.n, d}!d, i,[ed lè.sled andsho .d in Èndùd wsbythr llth.en(q ore dthe.omb\ mo$ imrduir.xpofb ibdim.nsi{N rc!trIâr.d bv {rtute and irs sbndrrds je,ously suarded (rridbu4 1932, 4l). A fonùiâr.tind mong.ioruûeùr\ ii-lnubue shms thâtdn. qualiry or broâdclolh $.s likê in i]'c 15$ cùlury (1{oltr1933,12È25) This do.@eii rcùdsrhe $le h L4ss or ror piccs olEnglish.loù. ârdstill ffi to the Érhnût trc $rp1s onhræ oI!hen. They re lover j" , l.bby bindi'a lithmiaed (z/s) spimiry, desdibèd ̂ teasled, onbolh sides The finishing, ho{*i eFaÀ iôi rohnr brn \try I'edl, rM on onc $mplc Fhdèih. Éhcd nao hrs di:'pDeùed rhe {em stxcrde..r b! setr b haÉ apFoximdely 12 13/11)ùFads Ér cd. o'Ê cffolq dcsc.ibed .s red,{as dy.d $ih nadder; the so oL\cn tosat (arj.h bordcaù .nlou 10 rhe {e) *rc dycd lithmirklerï slighi indiqo (xoad), dr dùkû ôneinleûsified by rhe addirion ol bruilrcod n'..lHsed appemnce orlàû inûliml cldh due to[ii\hi',s proc.r*s n sen hère at a rad, nd ûedr{ !'rio' of rhes. cloihs I sunl niiddlcqùally corelxi,ls rô many oJ the piè.es tÔn'

îûnfua",rclathirg

l,lilkriliry dcposib in l,ndon whi.h wemmùLdùed dlea$ â cÊnbiy eahei

Nlired sDinriG a\ tui!ôtrcd b.ir.c. gtus avcry Jirm cloth. Ffti.ularL! suitâble ror tullnsâid ntrishirs of the tsc72 labbies. I11 tll brisix) û llr lroùp ddjng to thc scond qudlÈr olthc l.uh cfltur!, âid 327 i" L\c ssùp oI ùe hG!û cenlq âre 2/s !Ir' Dâi'a..âu*d bvdMaiomiior :ltcr L\c clotbs wère disrdednûkes rhe dtread dens,ry in mo$ pie.es vrirne.Nseûeles, the dotlÈ cai Dc divnhd mqhlyiiio inr. F?dcs: tinc (l3/r3 threids er l(,nmind over), coaf* {mder 10/10 thFds pdl0m) ând mediun, bdm.tr rinc rd coùs..1mûû br cloths vith ûixed sriûning, all to'nL\e lab udRen(q depsn d 8C72, ar. oaà rir.ridr,4,10 a." mdirm smdc ad only ssry deoI a coæ s.de (Iig 32)L\cse cm be sem ro hâve r{eived snr d.Feol tulling of JinhhinF thowh mqv oI ùe orhûs

similar tei{nrd Ir i}.1ntrbusc samplcs rehkcn æ a Fide. mosl olthe hndon piê.esm'idhavê .ôme liom {hat .:n be acrepled i\ Èillishbn,ldcl,il's n'c dy6 p,cscnt on L\e bndoncloLhs rlso coneslD|dToulou$, wiih mdderused u.y rrcqrdiy. i.diÂotin lc$ ofrcn, æd bnzilwood to$ib!r'sùni*iig in ois etrple (No 51. *e u 2na)'fhe

eod niddl{.qùalirr, or ùc inubusc sæDhs n .c'1âin1y ihe Fde ro$ com'noily rsprcsoted ûong ihe txiiles nom ll(h{rrlurydeposir\ j lddônsade cloL\s lroû uF .s*nblage .ould .omeùto Lhe câGpry ofle'rlel isun€rhit Pn,bÀblyr)f siniltr consudion to thc lo\Fr sades olbro.ddoth, d,e q!âliq orscrlei alordwhichin erù mediflal ue!a: h.il norlriq to do witholou. ap@ùdy dèpdded upni i6 finishins,includiis dre nùmber ol rimes a nâp rvrs raised{irb leasles unl sh.ù.d. lour timcs bci4 th.dpc.bd deFee for these llxury fabrn:oloftnm 1361, 26t9). This rtuc$s lel ilir! . 1 ' ) l ] ' { nâ l l . x i b l . andcDhanccd ibd rap i r yquâlily.'lhe *DeNe of the fabric us dùe nor ioonly ùe skiued lâbour irNolved,Iû h rl'c ir,ncnsc qlmti$ or wo1 .ceded, and the suÈriorsnde reqlted ro vinxhd the lisous oI rhelredrnen (FjDdrei r9Âi. rr1) lrhasdebcc.suFscsbd that the u* ol $sdy lrtu lor dyei{ {as.nothft impodt inFenient in thr prodLcdoi or

B

h nuch !0 *!æt scâneb b be æ$gnÈablehere dùs L\e sx'ælcd trqrend ftere are.nærlhd*i d 1€st nine ûedim io ûæ €ndepi*6 or l!ôby{En clôth drd sith kermeswhich nos Ênse lrom dùk pulple ùd rêd robdshrpink (e.s.Nôs0, Pl2B) Thesix€smDtesor kmesirrd dodr rrom lhe taft r,t0rînh4de!æir &e aner tho thG nom the eater pâ;ror tne cstury. Thê odse$ is r nodièd clorhsih lrermesny€d tfireads in ùe ven ôory û,{o66) dd. theftIore. it@uld nolhm beên tullêd b$e ffe degree æ lhe !n!âlt.md.loths,

Asnduâl chânee in the prcdudion ofûèdimFade hbbv.tuH clodrs is @idrt Irom lnpLondù nenâ]. ln boûr l4$.dnry deNjts atBCZ ùere is a s.I nûbcr ol labbv wenpie6 wilh y$n ôf r sifrilâr spin rd ctu;r in rÀ€Mp ad w& Cable l), Iiempl6 nôn lheftond @ftr of ùe 14th &nhq æmprie iu,trhrte zlpun 4d rw çqpun kôLlms B, diê lâc14ù anmrr, drp pe(eûlâee otctorhs wn fromZspun ydn had ri&o srehrly rRsl ùJùrem'sàûæ nùliæable ;se h tios cloths vilh sspin,nins (20.3x), a rùd 'hi.h s6 to i'aeæ sjÈnifi dlt in scleediû.êûhri6'D'is add.ùincides siri â rechnolôEi.âl dèrelopmat, tuely æ i.aeæed ùse oJ Lhe seinûiûgvhe€1, rd adds to ourkno{ledÂe orthe @in whi.à rhe wheel me to b€ aepLd. 6uildreslâliotrs bid dM in ûE Frid hâI of thsl3ù æntuy in a nlmber oJ widêly disFedFatuDd tlrns, ircùdjns Aobea (lh1y) aidSpar (G€rMny), omitud drc use ûl làewrrd ody for spimingveftrù! (Mâhùi r$!"194, ft 13), dd it c& be intuftd nom oLters'fti includhc a Flmish *fteÛnr+',sùyûe conpoed ar3ôg, yhich r€Ê6 lo lne !n.4nnsdyàrn which%s qoduced d spituiryùheels by indperiened soin steru (Bâin* r97.94), rhâr this va,Le the E6enltule in noniernlmp€. It hæ alrqdyh€en !ôinkn otth,tdræms , Iong lndiriôn of ùsinc Sspun ym ld ùêwô, and Msqueûly the spiûnins whæl, shichhad m builtin design t ndency tô Mi{ yen in apârricùlar dnecdon, w ùsed to prcduæ yâm*ith a 9rvistlo onfom with drc requirmùs ofLhe cbû industry. Sspun yûn lhus brê êslablhhêd 5 Ùre ntrm,r pro,r(i uf the spinniuwh€êl trd one ùè rê6iii:ne 'ô {heekpun y?rûhÀd bm @tume simi]J yùn was als usêd 6rtàê erD. Thè eoùn in sstu vdn d this

Frs32 S.erdj@s shwinsûs ùÉddqsiri6 of obby.wlrq (Lorhs fith ft'ld 3Drrihs(A) aly ro mjd !ù Éoh4 b;sfd o $e.imda(B) Iù l.ld' ro âly fin ûhryba:ai m 3ta

lrùê Mrd (M!no 1933,3!+63). Reler4æs rôwdd oppcr ftm thê mft entuly oNards(Hofûlrm 1964, 265-3i Munrc 1933, 19 dd 273), blt it ffis ùd at first dr [qtish ctoli iÈdu#y had no wk É skilled dùgh rn erryod dre shêdins, ând rhe cloth @ *nr abdd,ofr€n æ tai æ lbly, b be lùished, By the lâfimiry, h(l@, all nas6 ol thê wt could beo')Iied eisildûily in Dngland. Ii is, perhâp6,

Tabb6$M@9oo\F|@Ûsd6D'd3phbc

É

È

Fi333 Saù di:3@ shtrùs rh. rhrud dùndo'bbb'do'n5Fo66r@s3Enrooye.bàsedd 104 MDles an brt M dê û@ deæsi6 otrh.IrL l,$h dæùlsrh dtuies

p€rio4 th.rdorê, reflêd modier slep L'zrdssreater mecbaidio in dr€ jndGt,y. Tlle chiefadhbsr oI drc spiuins vh*l 6 lo haeaærh€ sp.ed by vhich }nm hs pmdu@d, ftÉebthelpinc to mæt ùe dffids of reftre oI b*dlaæI*en lens ûo qui.ld} usd up tars.

whelsrun ym ms not as tue as $âr shich@uld b€ 3p$ sith â drcp spindle ùd it G notsûrDrisiûg, ihùelùq dr.t no wô[ên cloihwntd seu @ bdudrd hæ is ol a fine mde.Tlre mdjmM ndbêr ôl wùp md Ri ihrsdsper m is 16 rd l4 rospdlvely br no< mn€tiiod njne ro [ ûùeads pêr m (F''s 33). FunnermoÉ, th€ dyesMkmês hâê dôtbeen idotinedm my ollheDiæ* ofsspm wollen cloL\ re.lêdIor dyts in cônb.âi io bbby.M cloihs rithûixed spin0ins. out ot l9 Sslu hhrrwnclôds ffpred 1t ûnvtd b be dytd witn mâddd,oe *ilh a yelôvdye ard ûe reminins s€H

s€h€fu€s on doùs lmn in hùly dé, ûù Gwerceplions, .êi.Iôned Gàbl6 6, 7, Fies 3a, 35),firyhæaedaecordotoliêddl,5ictends Iôfren À series of râis ol mds befo.€ de single

$93{ Rei ofed srwdgA qlml bbùi8s 'iirrtud 3pir,ùs: (A) No 54, (B) Nû 16, (O No {1

fuk?wd43or@làbi€qtætfuss@

FiÉ35 RliiJô@d s€lRdg. on md hbby*ith

latt{horedylsthænhryse]ell

bs o( colourei sen€dg6 pre$ritn on cloihslroû lrdù nisd hop€s Lhal me cldifiGiiond ùis âr$ment could bè â(mpted bu! unlortsatcly, noy or the selRdges hæ be€n cut oûe .loÈV that lhe nùmber or ùloûed dds ùdthe châmtd ol the clolh is uncerlain. Funhs-mor€, the dif6oti6 of ascerbinjns rhê oiidral.olors æd dic pmr conôrion ol rhe èds6 hæ

Mo$.oloûed selvrdgs o'ne from bbbiesùù Z6pù *ù! and S€p$ ren ând mùy oftheseùæbeo hcrittulled (e.g. No 195, Pl5ô.The comûnest olou irr selvedgts is liqhtbffi (losibly oricinâny while. or in some cæs'€lld) @ pink, r€d or drk blrM Oob.bLv âlered) clotiF, Thes cloLhs ae ol mdim sâdebut the 6hads oI colour od lhe number oi cndsre wiable 'nùeê fme snde .lolhs troù a labl,tLhanûy depôsit ât BC72 ârê tints ol red orledrurple wû dûner oloued *|ftfur o.ds,nrblâckdd bnu, blt oosbly orig,.,ltdrtpùrpie.Tw ôIrh*ha€ six dark 6rds (Nrsfi.1a{) ad the oLlrer only threc 0{o 135). 'fte*

dds of the main veb hegin This ûrusementrestrltd in m edlt strons etuwh L hold re*brhoots shù Lhe dorft Ms sterôhed dùinafinishins. Some selveds6 include ends or a diJÊ.ent olor td làe rest of ùe .loth. lvhenroud m hdes td sibs in aftrn Eûbpe,ùloûfed e&nscs hæ bêen onsidered âs astn of cloths imported Jmn wæins cenbs i.rhe w. Adân Nahlik sulgeslèd 0rt lhe dif.tureni coloun ad Lrre nmbe6 of olouedthreâds nisht indi.âte rhe producer ùd urequality ôf the clorh (lJâhlik 1963, 249). The num

.lorhs wL d dl hM been Fofc$ionally ûado,md wiû sû.,i rbsildcrinsrieti/of nûnbeÉoIconls rd coloùrs ii is Derhâps more ràsonableb sme th.t làey indi.zte a pmdumr rnrel

Frinscs ârè presened ôn tu bbbylsm.loths, six wilh mixed spinniÂs sd o.e Ssplnrhmwhoui. usuâIy soups of ends we simp!plied iosclE. in srours ôl f(rui si\ ôr e,shr (e s.No 210. ris 3â{ md No 2n, l:u 374), but one.bth hâs êdds çhich trrè ùlied in pâiG md rhên

Fie37rri4êsolW]bbbiEviinnir€d spimi4: (! Nô 2!, (B) No 63. rhclight{olouredbadhftwttlnzsFnhr*d yam. (c) No 20r (À) sd (c) rona he rlrhientury de@sir, (B) firn,

Fi.ed ,sajtr âtrd ai{ên in ine opposih dire.lionto rorm more @minent bspls (Nô 62,Iis3riB).Tw .loths are pâftned Nith ùùds ol confteiry oros \Be. just âù@ ùe ringe (Nô 210,Fis 36,c, and No ô3, liis 3Ar) md ihis dconlioi

hoods. Ior exmpl?, aro depictcd i[ ùmy nmu

$riDt illninâtids wiù shouldû .æês .d€€dPididlôredbu sednlns6

The lrinsês ùe preffid æ ûonow spsnoie ÀDlla to læ kû diçrded sued Ablob ol àd pisnê^t idsùnëd bv vlRF MèlEs àsFrm'li.d clelen Gùians ûs ôlm) 's dsoûresent in the rnd of one doù wit\ a finseiNô 20! Fis 37c) bùt i! d6 nol .pror tÔ hftlo.ned p,rt of a pâinted defu!.

Col@ddræ€&ctrP.tteroin! oû wol bbbi6 E cgnnned to crrarsdd slriæs uI tvo disBnd llT6, ehpre srÔd.ff€.ii; s4 dd/r qeô rd a widdhriery ofweitbæd b€nds m!ûl@lins borh coloÛ sdw.E €Érts. ol rhe 6rsl i!€, l,v* from l4th'cmtury deposits dê sde ch(L Ihis brm orprtfl hE r lùns hisfl in ndbsn_LumpeMo*dlier':]l@lesÙeMmtdamrtioo rhàt (onrinues f,nh scorthh pÈid! but inEnplâld b! the 6dr ând 7ih caÛieq such park;s de ,lsô found on kbbY strn doths

Oneôeck€d.lothft madepositolrhe sNlddutu ol dre 14ù cotury G part of a bÛthded;l@. In this reaq the wr! ând I€fr de d'Ii@d in Fu!€ or red (nDdder) zd FhiE (,pDùenN udÉù ùrêdq;buad ùrelts outlinq ùê checie No64 Fa$À n !. Îe . ôih is wrn Ètràdbm d theoi.ae. ed hâs b@ft rutbed dd retFd in'sidê. irws Dmb.bb otrlv [sndv lull€d in ûr'iù btrêHt ùa Dàftm [om bMmins b]med It6nN, orisimly, E mbbricÛddidd

T he other clolhs with checled Dttlérns conetum â d4osiiolllê bb l4rh cdllry ThEv re inM colùÉ, Dtr { ând ntblaLli One Rih â res!lâr liæd cà(h 's a LûêR rcdld wên fromSsoûrùn 0!o 27s, FLs l3B, Fl3Al The o rdmturned wih lines rd th<rc, 5 â mdNm;dê Z{aun rcrsted (No 172 F,€ 33C, P 38)iiÀdde. ;E die onlv dresnJff dtEed oo êiheroI drese ttr cloth$ n * u*d in difrer€d cm'dFalios fd the two 6los of No t5, bû âPumrlv odv lor the black oI No 172, uhæ tlÈ;iil a;oea;ee @ be due k) leal,e€ dûingbunal; s.t nossed (ondiboÉ The bl,c[ 6u]dhâF bem Drcduæd bv lnê 6e oiz mntâni such

ClotJts Enened -inl mlôÉd bæds wrelho ptuduien in sinrple lrbby @ The âlie6t

reDr?lmÈd here, â rl.$ with nn@ âihâbnsbâids orftd and omnFsh.bllM vms (No 43oF,s 39J, oms flm ù arry BL\{shtrY 'lêPs4n h (ûse dd includ€B l@ ft,uns errcridrtidLrlv in the shltiry dlthe wei- Fm14drimh'n datrli6. there ûe cloùq wrh conms're ù& alo* h ûin!6 (qe p 49, No 210 Fe3€À ud No 63, F,s 3æ), md in posible allærdtterns Nôs 202, 2U_214). I0 Nô 20, mdder;æ @in idendned o! bo1n ùsht ùd ddk bM

ùrads ùe nùrù huc @d!ud rrvn uEroyems dmr btuh @ot Thi5 LfuiÉ ss hr.b'dùn m ene EnÂl <h hh1 lur Ntuteh!t$q rlinewt$n re44, 36, +71. bul ùsm:s 'ld.appqtr b hdF pr4{ELr rr br]ns ptæ(

6 | on qh a r.mq yeùd brd shôh dn.oo* 4Te or snple cornû etre\ L ûe u* oi wrmso wtr vrm 0f diïertd .otour: atrr ù;hù wtr, morù.d âpF&ncÉ. n lhisc;,!o

shzd€5 0l b6n Nobsr oildiorh!hlecGmsfs ùsrr brosn dnd pinÏ vûns u me orùéP^kûmes wÀ !*n bdyeûÊ ftfr)rm p''klru Dô, rnùe m mdr s. Jlkr.uq Fft\ ernsor pink ùd liehr Lf(M ùê ombrned-wilh arÂnr btum hF No 54. t-is J{Â pt 6A) Tneçomir r e pqhâps rffplês ot .he bbris dêanrd :\ or miyed mtouB kioM æ.medlss', !É âso !re.1cd (;btoFe L Nos D!r27, ai)

Êé39 c.loured heds on aruol ùbbv i.cludins

TabbylJrea!€s lvidxw€ft-fic€d bads

îre comones lom oI patbri,rs on l:bbyclodsfrôm t4ûEeûtory deposiF in l,ndôn is Urewftned bmd @nin *nded laùbvvith làe{ett !ârn passins ùnder ud {û tm ends TnissEs à dbbed àlpaMG forminEà tônLasrÙûthê Èr1ue of thc main we Mù3d tituingçjdr dre wr! yrn Z.spu dd the Neil S.punDr&ils, *ceDt Iù threê eddæ trom the lzhi4rh .dùry which de zsNn thowhûut ihemin É*a Nos 230. 306,3c6).In sdml &eÉttern *€to bâE $e smê slin !s lhe mzin !ÊI1bùt in sme. wIûê âtleasttrc Fftrn retu wrêÈmoldêd,one ormorEtuê\ M,mvbê7^pttrsd tr 6u:I! fner (Nos iL'b, 120, u, ll2, 23S-291. 297. 29*01 307, 300, 310,422) None oIùês doùs À ol a lne lFde *iù more &d 15Lhrèds Èr cm in Lrrê ùr! r man mft C€nerallv therc ùê betueen nin. md 1r ûds hd eighrand 12 picts percû.Tm clodrs lith a lowr n'Gbû ol ùks hæ a min wfl ota difierent colourio the qo lNos 125 nd ût, ûd ihe $eater

1àril6 o"d Cl1thitz

thicknes oJ 6he ft1t ydn, thich is the rsnùere nr the lN nùnber ofpicks, trdld hP em'.hâsised Lhe mtded efè.L The bùds *eEùeakn nor€ .loseù duing reavins Lhm ùenainwlrûdoncêallieMrp,whichres' edin

"\ nâiv âq 52 Dicks Dd cm. dnt is lÔÛ tines tj'ô

densih ol Lbe !€ft i]lrads in the smùd (No296), but a densit Etio oJ betwen 2t rd 3l ismôrê !ç!â1. the.e .d be litde doùbl Inat lhææ dre clorhs crled É!ts vlicn wre eren aimtres in nârdere, BcbÙt ûd nôihernFÊnæ as w1l s in Ensbd dùing ùe bte mjddl€,ges (e.s Bridbury 1932,63 9iChdev 1937iHardi@ 1$7. Al, md whi.h hâve beên Frured from Mralions inAnsGdan and DoÉdrecht in Îe Nelherlùds (VoN{]onis 1932,1s6). liibæk h Gerûn4v Gldow 19€0, 163-9, fis19.3), and No8orcd in Rùsiâ (Nahlik 1963, 25?4), æ ml 6 in l,ndoD md York (walton 1939Â

Altirêtier LheE âre 93 eMples oJ lh€crodrs tm London. Most Dresene oniv pft oloncbod,b a Ie* h3r M or *n Uùec baîdsrmininû and ùde h m doubi thrt tiev come[m clôlhs lnat mre slriled tlNûgho . Themee oJwialions stos d iictcNjng vituosivoi ihê d ol weaEre. who inlroduced sil'wôÉn !;ftms inb rhebands alonssidê extended(aùby. Wnere srkdses dê Prc*red tbry deall4 /edoûJ Les No 79, FLU 40{ No usFia al Pl ô8, dd Nu D2, F,s {2) æd thev ofren'rcludedreùd5orroùêrcul,trr(ep No277,I'l

$me cloths aDot to show sisns offullins b'nL\is ûdy refled the nâtuÉl woollinesofthe !arn.rthe Dieês ftre tul1ed ii is orobableural rhiswds€lq5I'ehte' ihd the rùlnent gi4n ro phin'lolouren bmadcblns sinc€ he,vy tuIiis murdhâF ôb$ur€n Lhc deliote lines in the b{diwhôre up lo nre coloûs trre soneûmes NdThê kmr r.ê chlrs€n tu shearù1s yen er'leG {hich ws â rhtd rhd ot +eùinE un.rripPdstl6 {Mûro 1e33, 37), lô!€ùer sirh thè wi-ddce ol ù ieou fo. sheùid a nvdoù invlich âll nF ury'{irh \nrâl shêâ6 (El6noncâruelvilson leftr dared 29 AuFst 197t, sns.sFs drd kdling mLl +e4 vqÊ o'rjinèd t0'hê ùbby lffn itrh(c Nén rhe vucrrdbmds so thal tne pâtlêrn us not hdmcd

Mon h,nd\ fe wlrm fioû wl or ftot w@land silk hut L\ere âre tu .,ldùs nom ùe crlicr

F,g.ro Tsbby.rlm wd cro.hs Dtued lnhbn& in sili rirsn dr No ts, 'ndudin! dd d(hrored Fh€dqq (Br No 30, bo'h 6!m À d$erd"iis b nre sùd qutu ofil1. r4ù entu.i.

deFxitâr Bc?zwherethe panern !Éhis,tw.Dlvùv€d ofsilk tlo 7b. llg Br. and No 79, Fis,t0AJ,ùd : Ù0tà 0J sinil4.ppeàtu hac â silk +ip€runmg 'n * hd:pMs io br $e dndion 0f the

wp (No 30 F's 404). On ùis rtoth 4d No 79,h()],@ ihr nù rhread h bôud in bbby ndrsrthm pasinÉær ddûddso dwadsda rimSix lo 12 tÀrc6 reft ed in ùes sitk bmdcpr6'lmbry reiectinc llle Eieabr esnse ol theF4 bur[he fts'ntws iftrràeles êrâdjF ândlÙkPd â ns deFture in dôlà dês in norù!ern Euop€ Thp silk bdds ,ppear io hàre bed*niy spæed io !rôdù@ a regùT alforer É!rern. a ftiâtion iddinèd ôr a ctorh re.ftr€dIrom a dêDosir dands t L5e ôrsl qua ef or L'rer4là æntry in ânftrdm alt.rnales b,nds ôrsilk çid' bùds olwol spac€d d inhels oJ 23,30m (VôÉConis 1932, 1s6), Othr cloL,rs*hi.h ombine silk and Mol in lhè sme 6sd

Cloths pannêd liL\ notuchrcrc bands ôlmor coûptrjs 23 *md6 Êoû ùe demsjtdâling to the sond quftr ot lhe l4lh dit8(tJos 31-100,125-121 dd onelior L5at ofûe bÈl4rh cdrÛr â1 Bc72 ({o 277, }1 5B).'Inessbands EnÂein siddrnom llmb:t5mm A ùiderhnd oI10nm d a cloth sbiæd a ûi6.m dairblækintn@, sbich @ rMrêd Êôm a dêrjt ol lhe firet hâï or dr 151h cnh[y ât TL74,@ nûr hÆ bm monctunme ôrioin v n]Io402r sm orùe namÆr bdd, are àfuÀ?d inp,i^ (e€ No 34 ànd a dorh of rht 6e; qiàoàiB oJ pirl hfds on : lighr brôn grcdd %É(Mred tu a r-3ih+nhry d@sit in Dordæch1(PtrUI1973, m 10?2, Smdnvons-c misF€re 61m). A tuidion ws tid @ nonG..hrone buds êiL5d sinsly o. in Dzire on â tbroed €1md e that soætitus dree cotouG ofrrn we ùsed j. ùes clothi one lor the wr,anolàs lù th€ nain kn Dd a ùird 6r nte Dirrêm Æfr (êg. No r2s, Frs 41, pt 6Bj holherddh h,s r mc{ned @nd llr$ trom tro àlbro:Ûnt kt r,ru. one nN â lishr brcq mzrchiû thê mloû.fùp t@ ud dre orher a oiikishÊd, ac6 which tunrwbùds oty€iow Nô

Clolhs liL\ bards of s! oloG ofhredsreûr sope tor !âiltmins Mosi of rhe 20 a|lwôr M4plês hft a bùd êdsen eiû â Jrwûrcq or.(ôMniighle (e€ Nô 107, P 7BJ,bui, ts hft m rlproÙjælj 6s qdth ofe&h côlor (es No Ir, Fe 42, ànd ]\lo Ut_ pl,ll) Te labri6 tre pahrned with p.is ofdmchnûe bands, each ola diferd.oloù N6lO3.û3). A similâr dtursi$ ol@lourisis renûored

Fa4lvoolcbinfmtrhbbbyfi0'ft+ùd

p#ied{iÛrfub$dsiJ'eihd.dbb|ry'No|,r'

F-442 Tàb|l' slm moldui} pâeded FiL\ àh€ndrtHinlfud€dbbbvmfu.o|ouÉNo11?'frtrnad@$tdadabùes€mdquaÉrofùê14ih orry 1vêli loops ddre ede ofùe clôrh Eh@û* dle s.lwdee ords hæ duFd. sere u

Tr\:til6 dndcknhing

in witted sou.eq môns three E'€d dolns ofDmdmond ql!!dec), brfeiled to the kinE's,urnâserJ&^1 n ]rir r xt29-30 for not (omplyins wtrJr *ùtory Ég .tions on Eidth, És âctôrh (oLoured ,tz, a e/ Fbroed wj0r Minb€nds ol blâ.k od {tic ùd $em ûd red. udæoûÉ piê.e wiù a crcud drtd oddy in sninûd patemed eilh twin bods oI red ùd white.dd ar€IMbæd (BuJ€ê 195ô 134).

occâsiônallv, instad orbêins Ùed, o.e of iie*tÈ is tuÙv{rlou€d tuôI. Ttr *mpl6he !€m iddtinêd hse. One is a ctoth {idi amoûled 6ound {herê lhe fan *di is blMwor Ntt25, n 6D. fte ôrhf, â cloth ùn\ n'oDah refls, on natuEl blrM @l md dFal]rer @ rd, hæ rwbmds spâæd ar ini.Fhls or 35'm Nô t5. fl 4B). Ano0g othù colôftd yrms lsed l.r ùe .lodrs, a drkpurplBhùlâLk F d $inctj€. Thê yàrn dltd ihisùt is otrd rhicler rhs d'ê dher @dn klÈle,s. Nos 299, 304, 305, 310, 3n) ard smetinèshas dec4ved nûe ùd làê o$er threads, posi-blv bæaue û ircn nû{tant ft3 Æd when Lrrewol ws drd (e.g. No u3, Pl9À dd No 309. Pl114). \{nm dyt te*ed nr! of lh* pnple dsDôEd 10 be drd 'iL5 bôlh maddered indisdin(Nos 236, 305, Pt 9B),,Ihoùsh olhere ʆn.gÈriE r6ulB (ê.s No 299), ed Êon rhis it ûry besusced rhat a Yd dltd ùù Lrrê ffe ttbùestufs o a dôù {h'ch is now sLjred a uniIod dârk brM dieimllyws r siûilâr shade oJorpl? 0\o 424 Èh b'f Yms àl$ àPæù 1ohlw bes esFô.Iy su*tpubLe b dê@y le.s. No2, Frs19.In deposils ollhe hb r&ft ænhry, clôth6 with

drose {in iust one or ts! colouG. B,nds M$lely in e;ftded tâbby ms€ in sidLrr frod22m lo 39m, {fier6s làûe *hich inclùde 2 zsill as Éll âs ertend€d bbby rdd tô bebrcadei29 531m Thê olours æ senenlly d.:nsed inconLEnins l,sht und dùk 0!6 or difiêaùslidns sith nù'wùfts tu*in! lhe edaes (e.sN6 237, 3S4, Pl 3A md B). the sp*ins of thebands diffen. Ode dûdr ha M simild bùds,eæh 23lm lide sæmted by 112'm ol minwve (No Uî, mother h6 M bmds ep,nbdbv gold olûain wtr (l.ro 29, dd â 0tird hasM bnds sch differsfly Fndrcd *FràlÉdby4m otman sæ 0\b 2aO,Thelatterpieæâl$indicates thatbmds wenôl âlwys idenucrl on a

]àe pannins È enhù@d sirÀ bdds ôf 2.2ts ù 1? clonls oos 296-3n, 422). Sùdi,rsrhe hNill ms m æ a h1æk in $e cdre of abtrd wheÉ by the snplê ApcdrsroriMsincbe dtr(bù or rh€ di4onals, à Et{hûd lwilvæ producêd (es. No æ3, Pl l0l!. On â lê{.lolÀs, where the t{ill de6 re smnhd frvd6 or ext nded bbhy, de diâs;is ûe réFÉd in e&h sebm (e.s. No 30€, fl r2B). tnaddiÙùf,, a resEr mishr rodue dtÈMiæthftâdsofeo difereni @lo!re forthê t*itvhichaffiru6red ràê diâ€lnils (ca. No æ9, A r0B).The insè> ol L're ûftd als ô,ten differed Lrlne t{ill, Zsp6 mr*d rm ks reouenL! Edre.s Nos r05. 309. Pls cB, rrAj ùd ;or;eh/sill (ec N.303 Pl12B,No3r, Onedor] hæspin pasernins in rhe wa4 Oo 300) ud perhâ06lhe M yms wre orisinâlly differùt otoù3

silk tlftad is .oùbined *iih rcot in bands in12 cloths. Fiw ollh* de Êon rle deposn ofilre*dnd qlart r ôf die 14lh c6l!ry âr Bc72 atdsem fofr rhâr ôlthe ble 141ù century. Thè td.ner hâE [:wr Daltern wfb ùd dre dhinq Fks emdd Tns, frm the êdrjer deoosL Éoclorhs ha@ nnow bd{is vitlr silk lines fokinsrhewol intheenae which isolâditrereit.do';io làe nâin wb OIc Da, r20. A wider bdd hasa .dt e of snk nankêd by ro* of Mot which itt re êdsFd widr silk Olo 130), ùd mnrherhÀ lour bùd! ol sl} :ltermriry qû rhreê ôf@l aNo 131).'Iie ,iin cbth hæ n,rru lin6 orsilk e&ins â btuu bmd wfth a linkjstbm*næntq aI tnesê ]rG mnbastje with $e @lour

Cb is vidl silk and wol bmds llom ràê trûdaosit hæ ûrræ tô frk pftm e€Jrs md usuâry in Lde 6eâs of 22 twil. tu *prion is âdak red cloL5 shich h6 a bùd {wen wholty inei{tended bbby (lro 2s,I. a r2a. The otnere iÈclude a clori *here rhe sift n\rqd is *Nn infoû blocks of 2.2 bill, divided by b€nds of ex-leided bbby, {ith lie didonâls irf ùe twil re€rsùs in erh silt blæk 0!o 303, pt uB).,qnoihs pi* hâs â Etr silk ùne tlmkei by

55

fjde! ân6 ôf 2'2 sii m ùiL'r a patr.m ftftoffne zsDu wuted (Nô 309. s IAJ. A thfddo$ wiù z brd 43Im qde, atso hàs a nrowline olsilt runniû tlftqh dre cobe sin\ deasôl 2,2 Nill on either side but heft dre ùilt isacentlatd by dr e olâlternate threds oIMorû6 dd u coffi!.turo w,ft edfts dr NjllINo 3I0, Pl ]rB). Aidner dori vith n€ DàbrnÆfts h,s lind ôf s t threÀd reslridd lo rhekryed€€ oflàè b€nd where it is bomd in *bndedirbby, ùd io each sidê of the ent e ràrôw {herejrisboundin?2ffÛNo3nr trisnotsrrprisinghd bæuced s€ nunber0l s@oL needed lorthe difleftdt oloûs tàùe ee o{ûsiônât niçblcs in L\3 rftrees oithê bæds.

Whne n @ pnbâbb be salèly âsllmd tharm{b4d, wt trom sdEd8r ro *lEdse, rhèreùe d!.lolhs Ehêre rher tun ôily,.hon djçtan(è into ùe clûth, lhe red beim unùnemedNosrI3, 29sj Numb€.29rh5,sri6;f rwsilk bbds sitr\ ràê silk rhleâd nodE d theb€.[ in b.tfttn. As the p'R is iN e s]nal ddddrioûLtd it is difrcult !o dtue *hâherÛre bànds trre

"lh, or dùn€d m aÂerqrds, tr

how Lhq qre used âs demdid.An ind;etiù ofihe cosl ol djdeidr qu,lilies ùI

râyed clôtùs m be Eained from dr€ mth ôf DûLhace ôf 0r€ Orët rvùdrobe. Fr Moh. in13321 Williu h âùchô boqht l2 nyêd clo$sfrom sino dê s*ânlùde, , Londo dEær vhows: romeruldtr'M ûd dryôr or the CiN mda lurrher 23% clorhs ftom a Genoese nddHLAnLûio Bæhe. The chap€* cloths *ith a ledcIôùld.ost36s each, thr€Ææn ùd red clûlàsp€û.rned witft shiie silk osl 70s. @h, ând rhemod sp€nsiE kre rhor srfi a rêd Founddltd in F,in rhilh cat 106a 3d. rêr clorh {PRa)t Lor /330/5 mêmbtre O; ûh itiference m Fnêd be à1Ùâiûed sin@ lie dôur of silk sFtrinto ùè cloths k wry small. Nô MDles oIrayed clorhs dyèd in @jn htu b€€n id;tinêdmons ûe Loldon tedilês bùt there æ nmvujtà etuuds drd Eious shâdês ôI red sjtirûdd€. (e.g. Nos 92, r0! 112, ]23. ?79, 236. 290.

Selected câtalosue ITâblry-l|]6 cloths pdêm€d*llh bmds

wm brcm (neeli!r),7-{pf.9 sù Ê mnieft brM (i@rit), 9sN, l0 licke F mIbem *€r' <ilk,sold6bllM //çPrY

ù d4ded bbby s@Ed br 9ûm ol niii

Fiq ùr

wêftddkbmn.s$0.rà14'hk8mBeB Ed: ù! solden bIMselwds:3 edce mrds mi*hiM z/sPlt :

rsirh ôIbùds:1hÉ bdds 1sm ljdê odfl', in hbby 3êPmtd bY43m ùd

rv4: dak b'1M. zspu, x ods ær.n

PbldrMp sift, pld*b'!M, z/splvwidnolfiF:tu 0rùry9

tàbùf'vt,@ do6s patiernêdsith stfr_fâæd brù iû aterd€d tabhy

Cloths {ith ote patr€rn ftii

wa rditbrû. z€r, 10 dds F cnÙeft lhhr bmM, s@, x tchp.r.mtum wn r.ndishr@k. ÈEtsdrh of bed: 3m t3 th'm)

wrgpùldshmft'z5s!gl0odsFdw.i!e!Ëshmtr.s.pui,9pkrdFàten *ft FIlNitb bmm, oæe td,

djffi) @drdbv30nmoli,i"wæ

$hD palô bnivn (ieFtu), zsDun. 116ds ar

weft palÈ brcm (æFji€l ssFn, e ttks p.t

wefi d4kblÙ,swÈrdcbFmIàidtrÆft4dd'sLejl,re'ss@.,0pick3pel

wci: leddùhùole s@ tiàJd $i$, ras

fidùorbaf,d:ifuoûpleÈ'gfu|ûre3m

w@:Fqishbllm'z@'l0mdsF'mÙefrFoishbrm.s@'r0licksp.r.mfumwftbr{ms$i',Dickerd

w{''lshLbnm'74d.9êndsFoù@ rthr bllM, slpun, tr ptbF.oFJlhwii riRhrblM, ss@.36 pie Fr

wldth orbmd: imnpld, Fqtr ùù 5mn

33 Dimssioi. Cù h r0{nn, w rtur (ii) h lzûnû,

Ùd: ddk bmM, /4@ sto mds F.nwefldfkblm.ssÛLr0DickÉrdFdrnwl! ddn bllM (m:ddcn. *@, s

hooFl&'*FmÈdbyamdm!m*

s Dimdsionà h Prhn, F ?ùDnva: ddkblN (Tsdit),7r@,0 dds F

wetu dùkbM (iqdE), s{ui. I dcksp.!

eô wÈ dÂ* bôM (mâdder). Sâ)un, r0

kh{!ftreddishplrpk'squw-'dlhofhnd:incmD|d.gsbldja10'h

wcnrcddishbMg@i']0-rr'ick5È@

s€rEde 3 FiÊ tends 0rùio1êÈ)

wârp. ùmsn (rDàddù) z,prn,r0a&F.nÛ.irnflfuoaddtr,'s!u,3,i.ksEd

93 Diô*i@'h rson,y?5mw@ btffi (!qdiE), zaû. l0 ends Ermwen bffi (rq?ûE), ssM n oicks B mPd6tr *rft.iir$4 S6ru 22 ùks a cn]irdùofbUd:inùr'lleb,rfuùs,c[m

9aDin6d@:h60m'*130'E

Prtu *.lt pinl&hpûpte s@Mdi\ of bdd tu t3 0]llm)

weir bffi, se@, e-10 !ir!s F.hrrftm qei: blbw,94@ 2ù Bk. rm

96 Dim63i6r (i) h 25m, y4nmi ûj) h tu, {

w@:medrùn-b@z4t.3ddsFcm

Pàhm wft bllM (tudder). ss@, à Ècr3

wùn ûrb4û inmoDte, gr4r rhan Irm

v4:bffi'z@411fldseroweÀbflm,ss@?piclcFo

wd.h orband: in.onpkÈ, searr!\r ùn

v6brMss@n'3'icksB.mAktr qti l brM, *@cæeirrsFq

57

rv@: drkùlon G@ùE). zspùi, r0 6dsF

wen &rk brM (oqniE), s5pu,3 pick @

Ibn m ftfr: liqhr brM, ssp4.z pÈks Frvidnolbând:iMmdde'g@.dm,m

,@ Dinolim: o h 90m. w r0tur (0 h 6oojn,

w,ry!'!M, zwn,3 qds Fm

B6 Eft ruæish bl@ sstu|26 Dict€

wdrh or&nd: bond.b. F6b, $a 23m

w3ryyellNsh+iM'l{m't06d,ærcmwcrr Èrôfishôlm str. r?Dj.knrcn

9Éd9.dF.Ùdzl'D|ytmÈEnFod'sw, ad dê Êd sd, ztu). @e cords/zpt odow), @ a'nsz/s'l{v (!:roreds!

fti@ dEdF cords ùêd m Brg odlù4dsspr ed i. @ps d €ùht

wdrh orh€ndr Mbalds rrm nide (one iÈ(@kt)*F*dr, rsmndl€ft

wdt dâk brackish.bM (n:dda), s.p@. 10

1vi,r!\ otbdd: 4(ùm 026 rhrcr:)

Cloths with Mo pattem we6

rlbry nawishirm (maddrt), zeu, sdds

wti: mdshidn (niddd), s@ 10 picks

Pâ@rn{cfs O reddisbrûDre smn.,n Frtrish.brcû lnesrbEr.

24!ôtsFcm

ÈbnslhiMrtdi|jsl>Flplê30ùffiy€llfiiùùiÛû

w@ pâle mwishh:ffi, z{N, l0-n qds

w€ft Fle nisisl}bûr, saù, 1È11ùks

Èen!iis: o nllo'.Ê!*rltr (it,ssun(ii) red, S<pù:apidsPÛ.t

fub :4d ' rm 'dN

we, led{lshMle, zN,10èt& perdveitleddjAhûfDlcséM'l0pd3FmPibn€ns cù È'ddiêh.ptrr., ssFi

c,t ù3h!rt$t,s:@20'hlcFrd

s.$dæ edcê (ôd d! .lds (2 rildl++rM6da ? blw .ndt, àd md ot3 bIrM 6dt

mdù ofteds reddishrùie hônd tsr'm (9{rhffi). Ùlbtb|rM bdd ldm, sl@bd by6mn (6rhm) ordÆ

Pb8dwie o 'êd,z3p60t dù*bltrm,z@

wi]] olbad: itudpktr,s.dùa 10mPàftm: ?|rùffidùkbllm

l0r tblN dtk btro

ra Dimdsimah l65m,v35m

weir ht,9@q çll !icl3 pd.tP:h*€h: 0 nd,s@u

(D b|tm,$si22pjckFd

sêiÆ&.: a âis @re z/sPt (dâik blM),

lel'il6 ordclnthi,e

116 Drm@iods (t h l0û@, w 135m; (ù h{ùm,

w.n:bl1m,Seq 10 tr pid'sÉrdIàtnftn5 O !ik,7xFn

tt b'Im,[Éùd(D,*N.90licksFm

edd:.24 rhrM bmm (?bnt.16 thN tink (?m).àrhNbI1Mom)

$/4: dakb'th, z-@, 11 qds @ mweft dâr* bIbm, seù, È8 Dde er mPthwis lj) rcddhh pÉtle. ss@n

0l oEe,sam

Iàbr sûrffiftddhhrqle

6Ùrmreddi3hpdplê

w4bnm,z3pû'?dds@owebmm's6'ù,[lebFcmPàemrtis O n4sem

(lD bllM,ssursêrÊdær 3.de! cûds otFned dds (m. dd

5s@ ùd tb. orher /a!-l) {hMdi}ofbddinsnrpl*,@hlL\]n46m

w@: br@ zspû. 10e'ds Fi.nweli bl@ sstr, r0-ll Dick P.rdftlhÉtu: o bflM,s.pri

(ii) r€d, S.Put424pnk,pff.n

Fbt,:bltrM'z€N,11ddAFrmwoltbllm'sru'11lieFidBdtrn*.ns O du*bllM,ssun

cD b@*@n$idù olbo* ntrûûde. neatr ùù 5m

\[b4:fukbiM'z.p!n'96dsFm

PâftMRft: Cù br4SSTûi) silM,ssN25!icl!Fo

vrd$ ofbud: inùnde, slrû ûH r0r'mR@:.13rà'mbffiom)

7rùlMdiNdGm)

,2 Dim.triôG h 66m, { 12 mwtr! blM (ûaddd, Txpq r0 ùds Érmweft bmm (niddd), s{M, t0 oi.ks E cEÈûnwtu: (t dâ* pu4li$+rlm tt3è

dE), @rsûn, stutt bûfGeEidÉ), finftù!ù (i),

ssb (p.ntv dêqtd)

sêrEd*.3 ds ciùds tM+ry dr; ûsht

È@nr 16 dn* pu4ridlb|tM (6fn).l1d'fls bûî (3nn)

16 $nm sidjsl'.ùm (hm)

w.i: bI1M, ssû6, l0 picksrmPiûnruns: c) sreybrM,s{m

G) cdæoi,s€Dù2ô!i.k9Ém

ï,idrh orbandr r+biffi bùd lûm. simmbhd ltu, ætsdd bysm (7 ù!@) or

r4 DiiÉsiGr n 2{m, ! 10tu. Bls oiw@ddkbII4zqq9ddsFroweiidakb!@séBD,l0oickst.nFaftm,.tu O btu.g@

(ii) ùiûh,s{ru17pùlc@m

rndd' orlàld: immde, el1e rhu zrm

xb4:iiùbfum'7xru'3.9hùtdweft ddj@ s{@n,7-€ Dicks ÈrdÈreroxtfu: û) d,kblm (ndrat pisfer),

tù ftd GuJds), çsnr4'idù orbênds ç6nn stud b 35nm or

1 ' 4 F l e b n m ' z . M l 2 m a g F ow€npdebrqs@'l0efGFroIàtutrrfu| (i) bri.hrbrM, S.pa

0t 4d,ssr

s.hedp 3 rcd €Js !ûe,77spty

wei|rcddis}5!ffi,s@1opùksFmra@mÈtts (i) b@s@

(i0 ofdqs@

s.l'trds.:5 €dg€ @rds s/zpv P 8nmlridrÀ olbânds !s b.n&on6m ad r3û4

boùinenpl4'*pd*dbyss'mdmjn

Aen (A) rrlrll1MbIffi2 ùlNNdà

(B) 3 thrMbI1M3trff ip@j.

21 û(mtt1m2Û,,.mpu4le

{.rr: mid.btrn (mddcr.z-s@, e 6dsF

{æ ddàrM (nadds), s{r,s-sri.re F

ràhwto: 0) fid b$h tnaddû), s@- (j, lurplè (frddd), s4u

widn ofbod: tuomDr.r. fsÈr$ù 3mÈthr3 ri]æûndùllM

,a0DinHsiÙsb1a0ÛaF2?ûnsk p: btrn (i@riud. z@ù, n eds Frmw€erM (qriE),%@, 10liclsFrmhb{tfs: (D bl1m,s$m

O rÀrpùshbla.k, sem

ridrh ôiù6ndr ûreê ha'dq r6omridq e@,atdby4smoifrah@

xi\ffipurolish+Iac}

wao|afubllm'zaadl0ddsr.m

tunwfts: rl) pinldsh{ê4 s6Fr(it lÈùrbt14S{@

vidih of b4d: i@nde, Âl1e rùd 7mtsûrn:7rûlffipin}ishred

5r rùrN lrghtbrm

Cloûs uith three pa$m ftns

w4, bllM (qât€),7- !rn, D dsF @, reft bffii (qrd€), s4@ ! pi.ks F@nrh*dl5: ô .Lûrlabbron, sad

00 r€ddish.@rPre, sam(iii) lighiblln,s@(d@d)

Mdrh ôIbâ!ds: h ù€nds 23mIide s@ndby tr2molnùsR

16Ûrr* eddÈhrualê (3ûs)? Ûffi lghtber (tu), FrrY

rô th'N rêddÈù pdrdâ @ùn

wa: r]Lt{ifi bltrm, zsFn, d&Frm\l€t Fll@3h blM ç@n,s!*arm

Ct red,s@ù0iù yenNtsh b'tm. s+Fn4 2 p * F m

wdth dù€!* n[onpleb, aeaÉrùù tuorB L\e bmd do* mt4hd ærus L\etul

2$!*Ffloùsh5l1M'bbbywm

3d1lmrnofrsù.blM'bbbyltr

te Dimm:img O h tu, { ldom; 0t h 3tu,

wêILbmMssru'9rbFm

l.aile\ordclÔ&i,'

Pàem*ds (i) r€d,s6pd(ii) btrn, sâpliciD ? Gû'rd)

@ DinflsioE h I& v 35mrraq ds* blim /-'@, 10-lr !t& I mwei]d'lhtrm'sl@mnp*F.mÊlhl€À oriqhrb@,s@

(ii)hjdb n sam(iii) Pink. Zem4344bFm

Fr@m:1d'lm li3htbonaiblNnid.btrM

7ùrmliqhtbmq

ldÙæriqh'ùrM

wa dd{ ftddjsh b'1M, zrû6,9 6ds F cmweft drkreddishtflM, s6@4 e !ùb F cnP:@nlrtu C)qims,Ssr6

rit dd* bItM, sspo(iitPâlebI1M s@!n

sehæd^e?.dsordsz/sFlY

30ftffiFbbffi4ûrrrmddkbl'm

]22 Diftmimàh90m,v3smwaq IsnrblM (mddE), kpû, ll mdsFr

we& ligùt brcM (naddd), s4a. {rickêrùù

Aehftfrs lj) dakhtrM,s.@trc, ndr4 *pu(O @rde,$@i22ùksrch

[àh: 4r]'rmtu*b(m

4rùrMdùkbtrm'26û@ p4k tbn)

â2 Dnoelsiùsh lo'nn''65;;\rh4.pinkBhàM ztu.sqdsær.n

P:emwk (ùwilb,ss@0, dtrkblr4 s@ncD j€ddrrhflrpk, s4mèr3Di.*stcm

wLdrh orband: s*r L\d rom ritr dddd

7 d'wsd{kblffi

I rhlm RldGrrrrdê

23t Dimsiore h 120m. r lsmÙhrp:dÙkù!tm'z*@ql0sdsÈ!cmw.eddiblrlw5.@'l0pitKÉoffi\6 (jJfd,srû

C'! lirinblue ssunû, @plish-bli.lç s@hs2!ôuFn

Atun:r6rhô rcd(5m)r ùrM tiqht blrM oml10i]'l@pÛplish]jâck

326nMlgàrbllm(rIM,16'hlIMFd(5mt

23,,Dimm$@:lr30m,w{5{mF4Â tiebtùt1m, z@. r0 cddsErdÙêftl3hIlrm'slM'9ffI\F.nlàhd O red rspun

G) plrDlsh bhck ssmco rkhtblIM, s€Dù

sehd!ê 3 €de. ûds zlpr Ghr bnMr.3od3 d pft ùprÈd mds (.!ch lord lesiûoidêÙshtbl1Mmdmàd'kb|!M

vidià ojbù&: tu bânds, 13-1&m ad hn{jdt'ùl}d'aerentFb!*Ed.dblamm 6 ùruq) olmain *R

ràlh:(41 3ù6vsli4hrbllM

rurwpurci*'r,.kst)ffiligh.b]rm Gm)

16 r\ms@n&hbù.k (5ùn)r0ùImriqhtbM (3mn,

(B) l0tlnsslchrb,om

10 ùrm tiqhr bôM25 Dinasim û) t43ûn, P t7m; c'n 35nn.

al3'mlhefu'im3æsdbhed1tdqwâD:dÙkblon'zgq9endscid

Pbbnwns ur bl@sejr(i) p.rlish blek, s@r(iji) Gd,seD

Mdù0lbùdsfufu2|mnn.dpkt|

uù@spFlishblack

26 Dimdlids: t) h lrhn. r liùnr (it hshn, w t?smr G) h 23m, w33m

w@:drkkm tûdds),2€@, r0endsEr

we ddk brM (naddd, ssq I pt.kEpq

hsrftns: 0 pûpùdùt,.k (nrddtr+irdrgorin),sam

ûi) tu6'i3hr'tm ûuddtr), ltnè

ljii) linrr (nâdds), ssùe9'ictsÉm

ràh: {dllæ@Dlslrblâck4?4 rh'm I'r8ish.brum 6m)

14 0rm@!ùshôl,ck 6i!l'

.à ù\M mâaish.bllM (srm)l inn$ rdishbl:ct

âz Dnlmsiù3: h l6tnm. Ù emw4 licbr blM. z{M 10 ends Fôwetr uhr bffi, s.En. r0 ocr- ir dÈ,hÉik _trreI'bim.s+rn

(jit ftd,s.N32-0{ pi.bÈ'cm

Pdbm: 8L\ffirishrbM

{Ûl1mrknrbu4!

4irffi|iqhiblMr

ren\ffi[e bffi

14û'Mlchil'ffi

sdtN{ghrbffi6 p t r J l l .!ùftli.hrblwrtùllMDrdee$Imli3hrb3]m

ÆDlntdsim:h210,aw20'mw@:fukbllm'z{a.lredsFro$hftdtrkblM'ss@'9picksp6.ûÈrh*rds: O Êd,s6pù

ût 6ghtbl@, S*Pm(lit dùkp{dè, $@,z!ùbFd

s.rÈdge 6.de€.ordsZ/sply 0ishr btrM),

Lnik:o"dct thitg

wêft blM (6rddù), ss@, l2 picÈ FrdPbhEis 0i) tukp@le, S€pr

0t r€ddi&\'b@ k@0Dbfim,z@

\fridth 'tb€!d ntrd4l*, sdrha 9?m

âlbfffuk@4le

1+L\trdJkÈ'plê

*r Diûosions h {0@ w l{5m rànt hi$ drr!4:dekbrcu'z.p!n'l0ddsÉnlvelt df} b]fr, S.rû, 1,1lictsFoÈhNrG oÛgnlb@s.ru

CtdùLbloM,s{rCi0pale bl@ zau

fidù olbaDd: incmpkq sêturn\m 201mPÀbo:16thrmrjehlbltm

2l}ffidnkbtrtr16 rhllmriqltbl1m

rôd'lmFleb..M

1$làMligh.blou

rfa njddiM (middfi€d dF), zsq !

w€ll nilbflr (uid6ûted dF), s@a u

Pàitnwe, cù dÂ* ounLsh br@ ssMti) lichbr@s@ûù reddisbbffiù swsô!i.ksFcm

ehi 3drffi dtt pùdi3h-ÙlM30jrc*[ghtbrcm

3? rxlæ r.ddbl|bllM (gdtr)6ùNlishibllM

3i) thmwr.ddnbb,an (gnn)3r.hffil3htbrom3ùllmdakrciùbtim

Clodrs ùith 6ù pattem *Êfts

B Di'Æim (D h!5m,w90@ Gt h7tu,' 3s@ Cd t 55@ w23m

va: da* brom (nêcdi€), z@, r0rr dds

wendrkb'1m tqâdR), s{u,9-10 pick3

':0']ffi|*hLùitrû$'nffidÙkolrole

a20 ûlres lùhrb..M

wendrkbffi's'9t.99i.ksFcmFàft mretu (i) liqhtbflm,s€F

0t pûdûr' uâcL s.pù0D iddblM, zepln

s.l€dse 5 edgê erd52Æp0, w 7 9mwidln ôibdd: ii.ûde, s.ùt\a23mInlÈb: e inroKl3htbllm

6ùlmp@lbh.blæk25 d'rmli3hrbn,m2 6Im pdDlisl'-bl,.t

2dÙ1MsDlhl}bbc*20+ d,lmrishrblom

wrF brcm (ûuddù), Zspu, 10 en& F d

P'rÉmlerB (i) ad (Duddct, ssn

tii) dÀk brM, ss@cv) !@re s{ru (deaFd)

]?|] j l@ddkbllm

w.ft ddk brM, s{Fn,3@ke F. cmF,ftrnrvefis: oblM,stu

(t bt,ck ss@ntit nd, sspuntl ilM,7_..pu, fiitr dF ti)c16picksel.fr

hGnr 4ù\$ brm (it..r{ùNsbffi 0)

2 ùrusblw' t)1'iNsb}.q cj)2ù@bJlqt)

.11!5rrmbff (i)1ùmbrou0t

w+mjd.brMzèur,cnd.Èr(nweil'm'db@'r9m.,lrksNlnPauùtrstili (i)b'rM,stu

tù purple,s@cii) rud,$!ù(iv) bffin,z.etr

sdrcdes 4r0 edre.uni wlomnrlidrh ol&nds tu bdds, (a) 33m aidc, G) ô

cmp|û.4@tdbv90nnofnu]lwawÈrÈm:(a slhnmben

.2ù@sbl'M0,

{!Ù1Mplqle

Tabùy.llru.lorùsrirhMtD ùd{doacont_asring @lom ed s6-6.€d 6ânits

r25 Dinssims (t b e5m,{3,1m; (iù h33m.w

rv@: rishr br(m t@dE), z{@ Èr0 sds

verr brâck (dnl piqfed, s@un. {sÉijc

Eh@m pti: yêldsir.bl1M (iêÊârE), fiie

serrdsê:2 €dF tuds d,l mdq 2 pâi6 of$ds

mdn dbdds: rqj6 of bds trb h $dê (5tuJ $p.r&d by ônn (1rbsx) ofi,inftm'3funâinlembdlgiheFjrsoi

r{eÈ ruddish.@Fte (tudde.). zry6 10 mds

Èktr vll ]4htgo.bl@ ss@;

j2z DheBions o h o5m, v rûrh; ô) tr{sm

wary|igù'b'Imz4û,9e0dsq.dren âretuÉ iifrs (t fehlblm, ss@

G)r.d,s6pùl0!i.ksûcn

hh rtl| y.netuh.blM, sw ?{-26 ricks

$-'drn ôfhând:3lfu ùs lm

?e3 Di,n4ims 0)h70iù,{som,udasnân6

w@ib@ishù|ad!7-fu'r9ddsFcnfteo?]êbnm,S{N'llpicksBmfthwns o piDtjshsrM (mÂddtr),

{]i) brow,ser(iD bffi,sh btÀk !!0n

Prûn,10ùI4b'lmish.brrkuùi4lishrbftM3M,piJ'ldshbrcm

1, rllnRlGh'blm

Tabriyffi cloths parrdncd rith silkùd Ml e€ft.âced bflds in dtend€d

clothsniln tso pàlidnwens

,a Di'.o,sions:0) h ç\ùa { &m: (i0 b $nn

Ndp: phÈ5h bI1M (inddol,75w sro

Nch Piùtrlsw' (nâddû) sql rGrr

Èk'*€trs: (i) brcq,sspùi0ù srk, pldq bioM. z/sort

rP Dinssions (i) h 17 {rsmmr (ii) b 160,

\kÈ rishr bI1M, Taruo sc^ds F.r'

Ètrùivdis (i) drk b.wr ssPmO mk. glldûlbloq z/sdy

ro DimdNiom: O h 230nn, v 20rni ô) I'

DrèmEILsi O ddkbrc{n srulii) s,lk &klcn bmw z/srrv

w4ldÙkbltM'7^pun

llten$I]lrs: (i) irrÙfM. ssom[t n*. rddù' bnq, z/çpr!

erRdae { Lds! @rns z/sply ldlik b&m) ,

Clolhs wilh thrcc pâtr€m w€Jts

i\ l4ddkbsq'7^o[ç10o'dsÈ'Ùù

dÈnk6 (D bmi4 7-rpu'(it !;kd, Ln,M (nxddc.).

@d{rrl'ù (D(iii) ilk sold.n bmh, z/sPrY

Æ4 Dimssbns (i) l' ssm. \! hû (ii) ù 4hn'.

iv4 ddk rcddhhruqù ('!ad'rcn z sD!i. nl

]v€t dÏk r.ddchJua!! hmddc.). sspu, 11

Iàfttr!wis: (:)lisl'rbrM sspùtt ui.k. ssFû(iii) silk sorden b6_r. z/sPrt

4ùdslighrblÆ

4lJÙN:lah'bll]s]

10 ùrc* liqhr bron

11b4:ddkbrM.zspû.r0{dsl{onftfuidakb.m,sstillFGFqtr

Eemy.ir odaktùM,s.Mti) nid-bfrn, 26@tii) rilr,rcldmùurm.z/sdv

Fàftri U(di4 wy debnmbd (NB band

tàbtry.st@ cloihs pattemêd virdwil-Acêd hûds ir €der|d€d r.bby dd 2.2lsill

Clôur with hrc pattdn welisIe qsrlè/ un' cdlrdsllinqsims:h6i)'m''fu

w:$:dakftJ,zqn'66d9Bcmw<trdùkred s5@. r3Di.rts icrmÈ l E n @ 6 ! ) b i t M ' ç 9 m

(ii) blâ.L, s{ru

Ètulr .30!htubm(5Im)16 ûr@ blæk (35m)

!2{flÙ1mbon ($m)

.eùmùùom(6smn)uhEblack(3nm)

.:l3d',@bI1M (5ûn)

Clofns vitb three Fattern we(s

i{4:mldblm'z{@'nsdsEd

Aemrds: udrk@dhLb]rm,ssù(ir')[Âhr b'lM, 7^0ncitruddish bloM.7Æuoe43 50dlksEcd

MdLbo'bdimûDleb'@E'i$lùmÈÈn:4ÉftdÛlMùshôrctr

4 ùw riqhi I'sn,2:l siÀ

3 rbfs rddishn@ 2 ? silr *irh@idJep.!h*tfi

1ùnstisilbM.2rrd[,

& rh!ft æ'tdisù bl@,22 &ilt.

Dnnm:imE (D h tr6ùn,,95mr (i h8sim:-ll0nh; liit h 6ûh, som; 0v) h 70mn. i,

w4' rr3ht bffi, z.@n, r-12 ods F m

\yêfr ushrb'M, srpu, 12 ùk3ûmPd.mfttu o)riqhr ùrM, s{!ji

ûi)puelê (naddd),ssu0ji)red (mddq),ssMj3lrickFm

Fàho:4rh1Nlighrb}lm

,0ùrmlicbrblM

4n!l@lisbrblM

3r d,ftrisùrbiom, , ? siu Pin @rd

lthlm]igt'tblon

20 ilùom rtht bnm

l nMtkhLblm

ê9 Ditudom: {, h 50@ w!s@ cD h 3e4

wa@brM,zfu'106dsær.trwèlt b@ 9{@ ùj.kêrnid,âfrih nn3

ràrhftrs t)ùuf t4'dk), s{h (Fnv

t p@le (tr@ûE), @tr$ r,(iiDtuk red,7ÂM

$ùt 7dj@on,l

4iS ùNslltflBb rêd md btû: :sin'gdùÂomr

r0.ûd3 Frm (az sszes.s e)

Pi@F si Oriehi b(m, s4ù(itftd,7,@orlishtblM, iiù ùs (i).

Iàb: 3 ùlffi liq{'.bmm ()6ùnHrigblb'1m (iD6â1tu red ad rsht brÛm (Ù,2 ?

6 ûnm riçhlùitrm CO3 ûrrm rishr btri O

ùtry re4 z{r. .10 qds F.h

Pr6)*è6: o pudlLh$h,line @,

ti) nidbfft,semtii) rcd,sem

ridù ôrù6nd: tumpkb, seùr!b tu

snn ddb,ft,22 $ilL siaoill

2m nid.bIM, 22 Mrl z di4oMr?m pùjÈhnl.m, r, '\in,

5m@4lish'bl@2,2sjn'zji4

vtrIdakEddish'bdMz!Û.9endsF

wû drk ddish brm. s$û,9 pk @.ntuxrfts, C)lthtbIM,sspù

Ctpùdi3l1 bh.ft, s:pn(itisùrrr@ ô.er rhd Cù,

vidrh orlddi in'mpltr, s*r $ù rtuÈeE: 3 ùrM lightblrm (i)

ôù\ffi@416h'bùùl rhro* rkhtbt1m (t6rD righibl1Mtjt,22si,

w4blM.z.!ù,9@dsperd

l,nik' and Cldhins

f!@wts: (i)biM. s{rutr(ii)Fde, ss@nûii)reddÊhàrM. 7- @

6 drrR bI1M (sDrt

!0 nlÆb.m(tu)

ôilrrr*brM (8mm)

,22 Dims:ios: ti r@ùil lrgd (D h r6m,{,105m; (iù ù 70m. a l{lrou

\\ke: dùr bra.kiùàl1M (naddd), zaq r0

vd: dtrLblacld!\'ùlrrru (râddû), sw,9

Fàtcrû{eh (1z!4fineyanCù s@n tnadder r iidicôdn)

\v]dlhÛlbÙds52mùd53ni*@tdÛ'

.16L\llEs€pu@'22sil|ril] '@inteFr dwfr (s,z s dûsoi l,

9{iI@*s9û@10 Lrrrr* ss@nFn.2/2 rù{

Clotùs Yith four pattern n€ils

waa:midùIM'z{aI0mdsFrcnwele nid bô@ ssru, l0-r pe Érdh@rens:obrM,S{r

ût Fpnsn-blr.k .ffi ytro.

G)nd,s$6(!, brm,7^@

s€nè4sei 5 eder er&z/sdt

nrnjr orhcndç vm ùd 3hû *Fdd ôvP:6r ô{l)l@b'tM (D

3lh'm psplisll.bl,.t

3ùlrM b@n t)3lhl@b|d

zr0ùlkblqljcr,2?Mn,

4rhl1mblw û)

1[rmbnM (i).roùImbllmn\l2leiu

3 l h l æ b l , c k ' . . .3ibfthtmô

3rffiôtâ.k6lc|mù]M

s,sDimadoEhs5m'wl!âm|ryg+Mh@'iE)zfb''ogdsF

]t. ' ' ldldbâ.dlnb'nd!lznnârd2m*ide!mnffipAe'*@bdb9eàÛdnJn

wd se_rlM (d.eijE), stu, e dcksFràhrcrb: opuçùsLàtærr Gûddft +ùldi

(jj)Ù3rtrblr4ssDljii)nid.blM,inê@ z{ur

ià@..,2 $lk sdrhbkk. bhbJ Re

3 ù\'1mrdhh.bJa.kr50)'h[3tuben3 ù16 qidô'@, ?' Mû!

3rhlfttjgùtùIW

36nMt&htbrom

1{ ùm lehr blwn3 tJ']@pjDLshblac!

l0lh@['hiùr(m

a9! ? ûrffirrelrhùtdi hbby 'ft

3,6D'nftid'hl|0m'!25dnwa:ùI.ftd'z{M9sdsffiÔùetukæd z@,qoick;lmtu@ obloe.bu

ûi,!4rnb bÈd! çmb.utbù4 ç6Ftr(r)blM, Zrsù

3 '!j@ b@ o. Ebbyhe r@ prrùsh bktr

clotùs with ôû pafieru \€tu irchdins èi&

-zDiD*ioihs$twlz'mBiBot

wdbiM'''u,ro.ndsFotu a6 r1)pu4[sh.bh.k 9aû,

(ltlehr bI1M, ztu(r)?:i& (duFo

** *-f*if* *-Èih 2ù)Æ@arsb+tcJ.

,m F422sù.Zdrh6r4m tisbi bl]m,2 ? bi]t,z.d@oDjl!hlk@dhhbh&9 b r 3 h i b i M b d É d ( c o l Û u

!}qr indisd'' 2? Ml!

rlml ti.hr bmq ftd,tid b@

.b*Esindi{imtl',jeill,

6 rhlrm purl5b-ùtxkûm [enr bmM ùd ] ft4 2 2 r!û,

*' *'* {B,'#rffi;ffi ,,iî#tr","qùp:reddj9hpEplèhdde|'Mllsd5

w.fr redd!5hr!,-pk (tuddù) stu. tr drànm'.f. oortish.Èhckssm

c,j)Ieddishbm, s.jMGtbrcM. s3ru(i)sitk,7_/srrv

",,-"',*,.fl#*-

,drosDu4li$blæk

3lhfussirk'22lvinzni4onal

2 ùnÉ !ûdish bla.klrdftssrddhh'Purple,ùffsFq,Èh.bùtk

3 ilTo$ dr( r/2 sil siaonir

3ffnÙq22$i[S'dj4onâl

,Ûn1mpu4lisb'bhck.bbbywn

vefr riqbrù.M, sspu. f pùks F m

lii)luDre,sld (pMly dë4ed)i ùù3hlbt{fimFm.ÀDun

dP liqhibltm, ? 2 $n!,2 di4omr

bnil6 ard C|ùthihs

Cloths virh live pattem ÈIts i.cludins silk

hûFoRrb Ol sbt brst. sspui0ùpurpLsfbLrk. sr* vm,

lj!)drkied TapuD(ilùghr brM. itur d'"' (i),

(vxik 7-lsDry.30t.ksFqi

26 ùrru's ljgl't bnn (i)7mn al'cant $ffi red dd liqht

ùsn tv). , , tnill' zni4oml

b']]u (ivl2, .vi[, eiæ.J?6 ùturs light brm (i)

3 nlsE liÂhtb@tr (t

wtr dârk brw' (qâd\t),7,sF ra àtds F cmwlt ddk bl]ru 6egIi€), stN. 1, ùilks Fr.r'turri{.j]s (i)righr biNr ssFr

(iirdrk bl1m, çsPtrD(o!û4lhhàr?ck, !lB! vdn

(1v)rd. *@n(v)sirk, z/sÊ!

c.r2ùrlmrio'bIlM(3m)a dr.os Puiiish blâck cnn)

.?4 thrm drk bffi (5m)6 rhr{m p@lish blâc* (rtu)

.r4ùûGliqlrtbtr,W (5nn)

., rhrM lùhl b'1M (6no)ô ùrN prpÙsb bblk Ctrt

4r4lhn,Gddkbon(tui){ rlmes pu.phh blâ.k (2nm)

. 12 L\trligùt btm (,nr)

I

III

,|

I

t! wool bbb''ltfu.lod' ûù â noûledperûpmducdbyu5iafudloGdpfrqi'Nu''nhÀàiein'otd*h€deen\M ôr dD iisi'i Hei3nr!5m(!) woor dod, drr a Edd€dFnemedndn 'tr adFi^ ord|Nid'$ngê

No%'lthsâreinftGds€rÈdæ3ùM

Borh ecion a dePsild,raro rhe :mnd

IL\) Rqi voor d.ù pÂncnrqj $idr

(B) rrlr rdh Èbmld srn ai

@r ii eoded hbby (r0 No

(B) No 3e4 \|,id$ olbhd ?nm

TapestryTap€slry is r hhniqæ whereby,rhee€fr,ftrdsre noi dr|1M comdêÊlyams ùe loom bur ùeinFodu{ed ro tu.sùdtspâBçithEioustnbdd mlous rs requned by ùe d6iF. Tne sù! hus mdeu hiddd in rhe 6r5h€d hbric(r.sdric* i924, !. Fou lditè hod ràe tdêl4lkmbry delosil ar BC72 b@ lhe rmins ,rJpânehs M itr this rw 0{os 312-3ti),3ll ârêtrn À!m molj the Ærp beins R.!y sr*edyùn. tu hê derem mroured rctrvffis. êi1hùz ,pun r s\0ù, rd doubte DesiiF the nq.meoErr *È d bee bpt*ies À iè{ addirjûnâlfeJûe\ (ù be obeftd, rLtudi4 ù\e ueê ofbur dûæolmro@d @s in rhê ûnest ot L'rsm(No 314), ad â côGiftnt use of unlinked stib

Itê u* of double JJrû 'n rrSe ftfi m , pLirdwr Pùp % ror un(ômd ilrnc bBÈisvæninFrmrh.nrmsh ed B@idia; romsduri4 L,re hre l4rh (dùfy By doubling rhê Æaym, h spsd *fti' uhkh â bFsùy hs wnolld be infted ofrên both shgtê ùd Fjredmye6 oaur on a piêe si(e thb ks a màcolmhàùins rfie tue ud db|lnq deùib ofthe rmposjuon, dch a! a o€Eon s haii lo bedepi.bd wiù sær sùbtlêry. Trl* (hturi+tic m6y ale hàE læû bàtures of bÉ*ies dodKed d E4lând in rhê L3rh md r4rh enb;<which ft, ft preenr, oly ltnoM tum dæudùb. Ordinan6 of tm gwnins bpcæslkns rn hin d.(ræd rùr onty g.od sol

69

hpesÈi6, æd in 1370 rhis m e\Lûdsd 1o âllioms.r trpesÈy Mlr rhe u dd'doat priqo llltrnÊN wd Æs not to be mikd vnh s.âikhmol r€onsiû 1931, 60 ad 7lJ h E êvid;t tlatbese rêsùi4ios M brd siroustv qnce h1374&rhdne Dù.hMmd w iouà sùfty orwMg , 6peùy c.sFr rsàI hanElns) virh ahd {ârp, m*:d 01à trol Rm, at her hN drmcn unê r bc ( 'qr ùd lxe o*r 6, tnerenft ôrd€red t hê bûnt âtdroush in ûùs e* itqs :sred t}'d lhe judefle4r shoutd iôi hreEcuLd (Riley1363,37rO.']}prsby

inhhjn€s wrê ts@tù m l,ndontnruwhoui ùe l4rh mtud. with tr:lthv .irbn, lrlloûns rhe leàd ir b, ùe rord;dwhrch ùdoild àu oppoturie! ror rh€ iafttr dFplry of Exies ri ù17 Fnqrd 11 @jd f30 bnrmâs de Hebenhrrh. : lrndon mitur, ior â@r hans'ns Ffryina ùe kiù ùd arts.wtuh Ms huns ii wâùniids Ha[ on iesli!"]ssuch ar chri@ and Eer rsbDtebn ra63.{{), ud whr tem U, Kinc of F rce, ns mmied .omuh rhe Cny s a Ferer ôf w inrJo'.6ê *æts trr€ hhsvjrh bpÉi?s d@i.r,09 baûe *dê! Cnotun 1973. 55r. AnôDq Ânmberof lap€*i6 Mêd by rsâbsla or Ftr;eeite of Ed*Ùd lL ù her de*i r rrçq wF ,t€nkù (bench (M' depi.riûs the Nàriuù ùdM 'fu,ryi4: of the hhrdy of thè]lffâlvûsê'Kjry r97,16j). B.F de ctde. à mituni ;nrrwddly cbûôm vtrlr , telF London:bæd%rdrcbe bd ho!*hold, ds h:d a nunbs ofbpe€ûy b€nks includins oe decûâbd widrlfie ms of Englmd whih co* 20s. ,n l2B{-5rcuseppi 1920,30) h h ior *cinêd where nor ùe t.p€fies we nDde thùe sê jndi;dms, ho!@, rhri taFsfy wvi@ rc atrêàdvL€n ed?bùshed in Loidor duiE $e Blrr.b:.ùry Richffd d. lerkju, Abbd olwetun6qho died in t?46,lejl w rzF[.ymini rhihftre d*ib€d in rûh. ùd l7rùanùs reords6 dEebk- 6r ùrsins in drs €bbq choirInobrsn rgu.r, 24-30;Biûki fmrhorus) one(ktâiû shoc€d sqe trom ùe ê oJ tuqild rheffier wnd nàd DM : 8reat p,h 01 theâbb€y aûd pho* shrim rfift us â Dtrê or D[srim€e, trd rhe oftr rhe tiG of ahri{ Thechoi@ ofsr EdMrd às , qlbred slsls thâr the(uù6 rere wên loolly. âlrhnuab drey colld

Fg.3T?Ftyeqwiùtrilr'}eds|ib

Irl'!4 trml EÉdr, No 312, [d r bi. 16c;M d.md Tne {@ is r\oM horLôiblv æft r h hw fr rDùrd bm bs vied, (À scal€ te

Ræùns imdy lhât lhde reE lâ!€ûYwæ v.rkjng in lÆdù durhs the r3rh rd14rù csûie€ (CôÉin r$3, 60) but db , nàxnumkr ot ù* aniss nÈy hft spèi€ij!:d innûurÀliF uees *nich @ùld bÆ dêMdcd a;sidm6le €md or 6m ùd shll to wTh€ tu bpicer E not applied oolyto wmsno poduæd tatEûies in ùe modern ens

StiD.i Dd Dlrit hbn6 wnich 6uld be painr€dd ùbroidied *ft âl$ ûong lh€i. pro{l.uclsial diês ldlils re.e Eesùnublv*frâ.€d ddnainh Ed rurd yd. Thc, tn addifDn todany msgtrdcdr trpsli6 fhich belùnsên bnbd6. Dule of Cloucst i d 8re lift or hisd,setr in Il97, çft êishr lie$ ol blacÏ trpbw Do{dæd ûdr white æ 1,ii, r@ /2 làritd, rùiffi Mitnùea,* ht'w M @ilh&*loh! Holc 1397, 239). hrisid doMents oI ùeble riù dd edv rlih cmùies snDl6iç rhedkâncûo tlre by rderinE tô lhFe diferêntsrcuos of bpiæi ldtsÆ SdEiDi,, tu Ntm

^bi,PJ fld lrti$iæ d, l,,ze ûs. (Weib€l

Bêquests ôIbp€fjes ùe induded ir n\e witkôIlnndoners duing û1è l4rh.rnha. wnfle orècis de$dptids ee GÉIy hcking, pids@ wilh bir& ûd minais æ lrl as ihNb@ins amori,l or pseudmmoizl deiæsslch âs tuuiÈljs we mmg thF owed inthe 1380s (Câl wills I. 249, 262, $. md rhem be æ6èd nd b hæ be€n pâùred clorhs,Tâ!ê6biês vin figùEltE oûposilions w rhoFse$ed by lhe mft âmièits Lhus in r?61$ilim BEn!MF, arùbei bequdhed rô hisen a dder Oâruins) depj.tjna Kû Rchâisd Iredù of1rcy (cal \r1lls rr, 40-4!. Mem,shilê â bprfy idendned æ b€ing â Londdprcduct trl d 14116'd{]m i' ùe vill of dre

71

Edl ol Arùndêl vùo died in 1392. ]liG bæsryh.d red mses ùd lie amôriâl teeinss of theâr ard hÀ s on â blueerund ûnomsi r93,

No notiG m he made out anôqg dre ævated liêB oJ r!!€stry, âllhowfi oullines ofûoti d€ prffid d sme 6-,€nent! al thepoint{here the olomchznsed (Frss ia-{6). Astsq@louÉ olFrmlld hæ bæn ned€d iorthe sinplerarmorial md bird pânehi it is Fob+dê ûai rhe smâI tr€neft d€iE tom hotbpeslli.s ofihb 6!ê. By mntnst t2 b r5 shadesof coloû appâ to fiæ bm $êd fôr Llre sd ôr.ô.oo.âL[Dse bpefies omisioned ùv t uis,Dr dlnjou jn 1376 and ûffrv€d today ir,cngt6, nonh.wslFruce (GndrÈl g2a, {. {3)-

Flg.rs vôol bpdy. No 313, nm à hè l4lh6bry-d@iL fte @ is sb{mhtrizôir.lly.

Selected câtalogue Il

rr2 Dimenids (i) ù r50m, v l5omû ci) h

weÊ wr. d:rrt brâckjsl1 bsh (nùrarpic.nn'Ù. z/4srLv, 4.nds Frm

rft lrwr, ftddish-bwn (nâdds), sspûnotwol mid.!rM, S€N

3r3 Dimosions: {!) h 170m v l50m; CD h105m. v la]Imr fi0 h 29m, w 4ftm

Fhrp: @1, nid blM,7-lsply,5 6d.p.rdwenw!rid+ffi (trddft),s@,

sL Din*ioos(Dh3tm,y5s@C'lhzu'nm,a 40'mi oiD h ?0f,m. '35nnr Cr) ,ùu,È99mr (!, h aùn,'s3nn

weswl,l'3n'b!nd.bn4 z .olt

weft oEdl,ftjdbdqzarG) wûL di}jsh bllm, z{uocio wor. dtrk pu4È, finq rh4 o. cD

0e) wl, Frdish.bM, $pu

wrp wol nidôtla z/soly, s mdsFrmw€ir (twor,nidn!1m,sau

(]t wo| lddbt"blrru, scPuGt wol @rdish btu@ sw

XnitingTm €tuù!6 ôI tnitêd trundts sæ loundwithin ûÈ late 14dEmb.y deposit d Bc72 ædtuùr n"3ndls wre remred tum l,lLhmtuy wlbrfrmt dep.sit! à1 FRE73 and BIG32.Th* ae mong L're dlie* Mplès oI wlknitinstuud ù noiihe.n EftDê dd de of 6n.sideEùL interest ed iûportrre.

One ilen O.Io 316, fl 13,c) MsisE orM smnFÀsrdl! wked lrôm red (n.ddûnyëd) teply yùn in æ effi scling.ditcù. Thde ft âÈprdinaieb 2 srit-I6 md ,l Ns pd tu thisbmêd â sfr ed iatle 6ùric sd, âIhowhslighqy nEfted iiftudle û bûiâl in tbe sil, itdoes tui âpped ùr bâk ben hê.rly tuIêd d !ohæ ùad a nap bruhed up onthe oft.surhce.Itcdld næeæfrôn âEùldlile a ùndhEiôr sls ftùer thân nm a piæe oI headw.*ftæ6 inglôLeêDor rhe nin bdme us!.Iin

The swd sûp or{Esnen6 No nD ae

I!a

lig46 w@r Læl'ie8 c$ No 314, @ No 315,fi_om âlaç rltlE.nory dépôniÎtu wr, & 3ùM

ârs mrked in 6loctine.slitch Êon a h{l)t, yannow slrined â Ery darlç âlnEt ùlack. hùê. nrekiiuins is asain ænly cdied out, bd is â lirUende conrpactùrh 3-.! ntcies ind4 sIW@m. one ['@dr hæ $e I@ins oi â.r{nedq! afi8 +1AJ, whiLn M tàF 6-â€neûts shdshapin€ by iiaeÀec dd dûea*e of sùElErFa 4781. Tne rûeæiu ùd dÊùesns de mtùned out in làE r@ld mannr6!,1jn modern kniuins pitrms, bui emshd hàDhrzrdlvnne dP!reæ r@. ,or iisbe reâda kB (orm.rêr.k2bs k2,k2 bg, k5,k2rô€,k3, k2 rof,k3.k2ros.k2 rând pmb,btyrure)l

F-'g4TFr4|mBorknini4'No

Ùû €tury t4) Grin d?e rdê14.18) dehr d shaDinÀ !€re I r

The kn,dirs does nol tmk ar ùoûh n hshen helviytuùed orLtu,hed bftr; n,o.fcoohi lu e mdy ôt rhe snivi4 tothrntudkn'ued ops Frh rhe slFoinr Mdq.e hN@, it È po$ible ro tâd làd dr€* jiâftdftrê orisim[v : dosèfin ns ep ôr. 56 tardenr!hd mons rder knincd irm!as rhê rr€q rDd

tuslbæicbrm of head@dns (Fis !3). csps oIsinilâr nm hæ t€a dc&tê{in oùer to-lhErDàn rMs, hr .trdènD,T il4lhrntuyd@sit in St Ddit Fmæ annmù lgel, 339, fn$ ddIma l5t])dturyde@sitin li'be.k Gt-n4v C.nhlow 1956, I,u, &! 2-.q. nris M dErypn lislrdmof hadMwhÈb seroroLft bêd ln !Êêlor$rcliæ@mgL\ê!€aMtsd wkiry æm6i9 b€rû€ b.iqe *lredinb â nuch ftorê hshid.bL form ol headwd

sl.clid€lbh s6 liL*is used lor ùe ùildlùired gârmenr. olvtich aç4nm1is preserved(No 4æ, FE 49). It is worked fim M Sslunwrsbd rzms whjcn âre Ery lishtlv plied, litn 5sdlches ûd 4 ffi p€. cm.'Inirv4jsht t1M orihis ileû miE inclu{iiG @r ôf d edÆ oddê shâpins, one d6æ in tw 13 ùd a tuF

L#i16 arÀCLùans

tne. dæsê in ôw 23 acmplGhed by kniljnafrc stncn6 togeihe. Row 6 h Laitt€d in,ydn ôId&ker cololr but bs 6ilêd tô delet rh. preedce ôf dlrsûlfs on eiths ofthe kn;tlinEydc, atldde ofthesè h{D }ûns mùshæbd d}td,hlrRtE, sinæ ùalrd6 ol th. frbres shm thrtneith.r is ndral srey or hroM {ol'Ite Io!rth LEm ol lniilim No ,133) is similirin quâliq rô No 316linlr ? sûtches ad 3 lm p€r

A nunbù ol dMtêrhtics âre @md to aIfdr of $ee klitl€d iMq llmelJ ùe tpe oryùn, whirh h Ù8ldy pÙêd rrm M s{p!n yErnaLLre G or ç(kinhiikh, 4d rh€ âbraa of [Ù.ing,lÀfieln€r they wrè knified in lhe mud d'rct be ddermined trd theh i:âsmsl:lrcondilion bu! tron dre aidme oI knjded soodsço Lndon dadns iù dre bb 151\ dd 16ù m.

Aparl i@ eps, other lnitted itens mrn innedie!"] Eqqlând wê slfts. Somè weE ifrlorr€d tnio Eiglod or lbliæ salèrs TheSoùthmplù Port B.ot ror 1,!59{0 indudês andry p6 x Delrê slo4sy ûrÀ11 ql. xd.'. 6rewpÈ (Ruddæk r95! ?'), brt the gl@es mrenot iewit Ibliæ sinæ soôds w o(.nplcked upby sdleys in dle t@Comlri* a Dr,lorEnslmd fulifrcoliy, slms çÛe môûsrheibm sielêd ôut in â sLtute oI14A @scdbùs

û47, z

lhê inrpo,{ of erlain forêkn $ods in der rôpr@t ompeddù wirh EnEtisJ}made wes(srrri8 ol ùe Rèln4 3 Ed.Iv c {r. tr lD besurmisd. i\ùd.rq rhjr llo€s $e. nke ;Dcbeia hidêd in lstheù Ensl,nd. KùrjnE % a ,kj[ rhd q;. !Æd on ùtoqhdm!fthbon ed ptrriel dTû'sÈ, rd ,Eon8ùs htr mt sô rÙ ba hc?d wirh )nv qeis(É*. rt E ptubàbt sisnin@r Lhâr rhr sùs4nd hdùg in EErn EmF @incdes wjrh rde.ùnê in rhe usê oI mdnnss ad mn6 mrle'n a onê medle LdDioue *ioM a hàhhindin!'. îG w ùe hethod sedlor â sk drinet! ùe rodr (hhry rNEred nrm Yodi nvJbni932, 5+:Wâtbn XrmA 341+r. bur tuLrfg indj.@s hr oûêr dre* eæsories made in t!58rrpe or netdle oiÙns @re @ omm mLnshd, 'n @ntsaç, hr Md€, ro 9rndDaur6ùtiês*t1ùe ifie cnn cdiinued 10 flou.ish inremote rurai 165 inro the 201h (ên@ (xordl,nd 196! 2fi, $ rIà By the 15ù dd r6lh æn.hri6 rhe d or kniuine h:d difrised wi,letv &dsoûedri4 ol $k â be diyernêd in rhe 4evntêd ffiples ùrrh€ ærjod IlE tnidine 6 wharm @urd k 5 à dmPÈic prcducr tor @riqlR ad qiq dlv liD siæ L âshion Tnêr_liet Èff kûuine p,[ern rÀ pubtished inN trd presmùry berùre rhd dâb ùemeû,odsnfqhrpiq qre oikd on qjxtn (Rur1937,239-.11). Chd36 ii shâpe w,jd dep4dupnn ùe rHù4 skins or eùe of drê knirt^Ihe eknples rrm xrhrnûry rndd ùe bob"enên@y io indid rhe 5l:1l ollhe skil n rhêmjddlc àe4. dre rop€lTonê d $itrh6 tlwn ioiorih Eurcoed loierq or rhe Ê@€i6 thenems rrhpftd by ùn. R.earùhr6t besun onûe raÈr e€l3têd knin€d irem Dv. hoffihelp b rh@ more Leht on rhr ùlÈr bhâs dthh Lê.hniq!ê

FeltTie mduhdrê or ÊtL rhàr is rhe nùnq rôcê'her d ônÉr qth moistue ùd hd ;drpn$ue 4d 6iaion, kr prdrce a $ti<l non-lwen tabric, h6 ber oadiæd tôi l@ æFhris 16 hlfi qind and hFftooiouârjd* n:drit suilâble for : pidê dse of dress aRffnsmd doûjng, includins hrts, bæls dæs dsherLhs, às trrÙ 6lor tumjshrsc, Fnitulàrtv

75

russ ùd ralhmÊiogs woot, md somé ùinalhiiE, such as sod, bêàErànd ÈbbiL &e L\e onhtibres rh4 6lL disfaLrit, 4d in Me rerid;or d'e s 4 includins cen!"t Asia teli6qujlt d 6 € mèÆ3 or srrdsrhruq iL Wlr€trûm4êd Llt ù b$ne brinle, breitq uûmôre e6ily làewren fabric, æd bMùs oa$irrh€ 6'ashùb $at smiæ tré ônen snillùêrby b:dequêLy rel dirs rh€ ,ne,ianæ rrormêrry bel,l in ftrydiv tifê.

So@ eishr irds olirlt wre ræMed tonl!ù{entq deposits âr 8C72. Thos Dieæs frôftrhe middlê ofthe mûry@ in côtoùiùd ond;ton blt ehæ kll souqh or*ftd thd h:Fbern idsriied 6 nàde lrôn sh€eps root qùibres oL medim b oæ rhict e*. sne m!ûrârbrcwq nd all Drcbàblv udved In dê en-pre. ùè ho fibrês Ære probàbtv oluckrd b,hând or sh.d Érher thr , tj@ed, ùd;hN s,0r ne.hri.rl ddase due b rhe tutrnukns proR* Inrry M AppLêyùd p€É omnr. Mo* orte remins re slri6, ene tusiblv ûn ôfins and diserded innuli0sobjæ6 ol'iù.Twm piG q,ro 133, Fq 50) dil hæ rdrins ofèrkd cui êdÉ6, çhlh lould hæ beù Dârtor ahr brim, oi 6 susseqcd às ù itrèmtnE tursiniLr pires ol rhe Bth rd l4rh enùis frdAsrlerdh, roostr lininss (vdsromÀ t982,

rn $e trqsnenE ôl dtlhot ,? t tom L\e tarexthrenûry deposit r BC 72 rh. ryr or @l ÀIÛe wied In À nûbbctr tidsùt4 oûcùr,Jm hrE ûe hd om6 hnn à doubleoæd<heç, {idr natùil e4-brom Êbr6 No 313FissD Fner rcol Êbrs in l,\rë oiRs ofsoÉfert qe dyêd red dd rdlov, 4d in de aç rh<dydfl tudder qe iddûlred æ û€nL sometràsnab ôl ddk red md yrùd fêL w toudas a Eroup but il i3 oærtdn vherfid rh4 *reorisinàtt mmbii€d io form à pàfter;d letrr nero de âr$ tu pie6 of a htt whnh ketude lior a omùimtid of wot ând ûr fibftsincludinE rhe lujr olsto€t or @sd wtrm incorponlins filr r hair lÀe propôdions haF r beÈretuÙy judftd, o ûd the 6oner ûùe etadhrcol Êbe hold rosdhêrdr sooù Âr (Brkeu1979, 10r.2). Tlrê resutt hde is êûetu, tne ntrhbrês sivins: odjeble shcen !o the reti

The felt lndusùy r rhe mèdievzl psiod hÀr<êtrd scmâtknbon,bul rhere is liflte doubrrhri hrr @ videty Ed If h,6 h.m àr t€* ùê

Frc50 ofcub ûJmol felr, No 133, fiom a depsit

Tdik.rdckthi,s

l3L\ cmûtry. Clild rclnlariôns ol the l{ù mdêdy 15th cenrùrl con.s.i.s the tuliry oI hâsby haNl in l,ûdon (liley 1363,402 5,553 9) sus.se* dBt sme hds trre mâde from fclt sinc Lbeû,.osss menriôned inrhe ùiliftes acctrEbl'desùibe those bdirionzly ueJ ii lehnaldnsln addirion. hâls deri!1ed i. many llHusdiùt iLllminadons, pânioLrly thop mrn by pir€riniùe in sqhs shich duld easily hde been pG

Fclt hab beoûe an iEm ôrbshionahlê drê$by thê niddle oI rhê l4th cènlùry li'ey wrctrêouenuy bôûahlir. thc qal household mdFnwrd lll, Ior *dple, is r.uded tô have hâdthree lelt hab tifrned wiu' gildcd butons ædsiù ti6 made 6r him (l,reto' 1930, 35). A lelrindust-!' nlst hm exidêd, theÉIoie. to supportùÈ dênând. Mâry ffil1ed beâE hals oi drelate 14th cntry such 6 ihc merchùts'Ilrundash bder hd' in Châuæls Itr Cu 'd-ùr41alÀ (crv1ry1975. 9,line 272) were probablynade lrd a conbindion oI wôl bd bèdef luras Ms ùê pÉ.ricè in nôre rcmr tim6.lelt hab*ere ii,p.tud Êom Sp.ii od Flanders (Childs1973.l,|1:RrddocLrg5!7D),b ùeyalso.pp€artd haÉ bæi lrdlcd loclly in l,ndon dd rhhis a subjed ihat {ould reDay turthcr rsemh.

6s 2).I

Goathair textiles

Utle aN'enliôn hâs bd Êim to lne ôle ofgoalsh the {mmy olnedi@l Englond. The er} ofdôhâsro€is La howr, bedmiry to rev€:l@idetrc liat is not êæily ôbiâinâhle 6m wiensoûæs Goalskin, hom as @rdwin, was sometimês ùsêd fd slrces mrn in Iadon dùiqg theIth io l3d' centuri6 (GrN & NÈêdâârd xlss.4,1: Prircbrd l9cr,22) md itlppeare aho to hâvebem m'mon 6r shoes nade on ùê Coitinent arrhe he p€riod ovanteinse 1934, 29, ns t5)wme ùer€ È, onsid@ble trishtof documnlÀy didqæ lo showthât ordùâjn }A ùnponedinio Enslând fmspain in rhel3dr sd eelv l4rhcstoriês (ChildsÉ7q m.{,136-7). lhe tsitjon isIs cltr6r L're llth ùd l2ûr @ntlriês ùd lôélsuppù6 ruy hâæ ofi*d n iniriâl

Uan *A modr€r inponat goal pioducl CôÈr*!dden: sb'm t]l,t vhile Boûike Ærurkjns h Gernâiy durin the 740s IÉ st a.loal of silk ûikd û15 g.at hair to Dùiel,BishoD ôf WùcÀe{û, Dd blmkeL nâde trdll!€dEi. to HEerberL Abùot oI Mônlftù.murllJrlfi {Budny 193,1, 39, 931. Evidenætom Lddon poinl8 rô thê usè oJ mme dilesmde lron smrhair betue{ rlÈ 1Ih {nd 17thcùtuiês md, âlhough this vohme h o.t coFcerned with rdlil6 tom the yàÉ 115{) b r{5o,d'ê othspieæs shN ùat diis fA lor a nw typeol prodlct nor ws it to be supeRded rûr man]oldies. uûlile g.abkin, ihe surply olàân didnot dèpod ôn dre slâlshFr oJ dirâls. Hai. isshed qa&nly ùy Êuls in the sorins, ùe coæhaiF ûf nhe oulêr M pmding the sùedding ofùê flne wôl ôI rhe udemd (Rder 1966, 293,îs 2). It ii therebre. po$iblc rô côIêct thê dI-rermt 'es of hair sepdârev, md acærdinglylnq need nôt be inhiEled when lDde inûùclolh, 'Ihi3 chmcbri{ic of soâlhajr apletrs bhæ bed âTbned in L\e makins d ùe .lorhsdesdibed here,4ll de w6 frm thicl< tup1yyen wbich À coftred .hielly of kap hans. tis miiceùle. hoffi, L5ât whm thesc clours desnde in dambic cmditions the hoire lDè theneâle 0âtbr6 md a nÀs of woùier fibfts oftm

rcsul6, *hich 6 ât frrst bê mi€b}ù lô. d Éry

Processing goaûâirîre neûois dpue$ins md sginnins!ftthâirMre not neæsily the we as L5o* used 6rsheeD's voôj,3incê ùê fibr6 ft mtalikein didr*de fortuion, æd goaiiaii whi.h læks crimp,does noi cùnstosen'âas e.sity as {oL No i'Iordiotr on lhh subjet âppea6 !o hâE hêù 1ôùdin English @ords oI rhe mediB:l period md eoie hâ6 b M ro êùtusàphic studis nT duesA study uderblen on nle spirning ofgoaràairrô. rhe nm,É.tùre of tents in $tia il tne 1960srftrled lhât lo ens!re it rêmains wârer.epele4the hair sas not wshed at âry sLse be6r€ w&insr injead rhe mw libr6 wre clemed by 0rùlonFd bealins or dre lloor oI a wr*shop (Haldr$l ur2l), lt hâs bed sustrsted by liadinaviù witere that hân ûâJ 6u,Iy hm hecn sprhio ydn ût\ a spinnirs hæh Biier ths wiù âdô! spindlc fitud uiù â whorl (Nordland l!61,12!-7; SchjolbeE 1934, 33). This hoôk Ms nÉdeeidrûùoù a sinsle pifre ofmod, bone or nelll,or rrom t{o oidês Lsbed bsdner to tum afts (Nordlmd 196l, fus 73 5). A tuhled sd ofhân }A ûched to the hook d ms vbich wsmnliDuously turned wjù de hùd ùhile iIÉoL\er hmd dr* ûul shds of le6ùre.

An âltêrnâriÉ netlrcd of spiming so.thâirNd bday by Bedouin sms ii $e Neâr Eâdômhines $e eof aspindleùù rouingrherâna8drst 0te thish while sêded. A larsih or h,jr isdaM o'rt nom a 'm, {hich is held in $e lethând, dd mled as:id $e !\ish vinh die righrhad as tiespindle is t{isted in a clôck{iædirætion sidr ils tip reslins on lhe !.omd. The spunlhrud is rhen smd ioud ûE sh,Jt orthe soiÈdle b€low rh€ *tron *trich is m.de fd Mctuspiecs of wd, althowh rhis method GslN, it is rell suiled to spiniins hân

rdhs 6tudoû3h6bb i€etun€drdbdd

s!ôd'dq

(qs'!@UÙ

\.BsFf$mf[tdgeFq\d].*!dsrs1

1rr de€re ol lvii gi6 to rhê yarn used inine soâL\âjr cloihsnom nedievd bndon {asnotsreat, and to stop d'ê yrntum u{inding æd asâ stdutheniru meGure lhe hdr w6 usl,Iyplicd Nith S b'jsG Dd d. This resdted in àlrlrly coa* Lrlead, .2-4Im in dimere. All thedoins ùsled here dc {@n rom pli3d }?ûs andlith one mÈplio. rhsy de 7-jlied lion sogrvisbd yârB (tible 3).The ereDtion is. rie!€(No ing) non a deposit which {tates to the lâhÉd ' . t h f y ' ] t i soneo lùe lde$mo4ùes,adEi! clolhs iûcluded herc md could, therelore, mdk â .broNlogr..l diference. Excetions in Beryen, NoMy. horeèi yielded 90e@ples or tlr rormd lpa md 7e dmrpls ofùe l.hr vhi.l, wre senc'zrly {wcn fiom iincr

ând bderprepâred yûri (Schjolbcrs 1934, 32J).this, it ws ?rsned, coL d rènd a ditreren e in

lie doùs liom lrndon re onsi*nt in havins a hbby bindinsod fie outorde 13 eFmplesFesm Ddt ofâ simple sèlvèdse CNos 43r. 433.436, 439, 1.15. lable 3, Fig 534) - a high pmp.tionn/agDlpoflcxti]esoneclodjdsohasa*ri* oI looFed cnds lûûi.s a frinse, 30'nD inlqih (lig t3B). rufiher didùe âùour the sizeolrhesclotlE ones foû â onDlêre loofrwidth,or a simild fabric, *hich \æ .coercd ton mearly l7lhsnniry deposit b?sldc ù. thâms atS.udrsdk. I is A()m Cl2*ir, wide {dnedy2m in l.neih (one ùd isin ùn1pleb). Lon

t

râlrdc$ weÉ wm in reldi@ly ndruw{iddE byone ÉGon o' a simple tâme ôr loom, *hich wâsDtobably psid@ed verricalr

Use ofgoalhah t€rtil€s-lrre side distribulion of bxrile of rhG rrùrcùshoû ionhem EumlE has eûerscd liôû

lerule d$mblæls te.ÈS.hrolbt s 19R4. Âc $dltui A$ $) Î$ 4;lrequedly prusrt ir wdû[.od dêljosils as thescexmples lron r3th md llrhremury rindondcmonsHe, rd thlre k r slruu Fs'b' '\, rldrrhe r orh Es u5eJ ,! r ruct@im lrærirl Iùhêrôùadi$, in a siùilâr My to (wse ednal{Hoffinûn l9ô4, 36,1-5, nl,t9).Îiis vas not, hower the o'ù rnf d,eLôth N!mem!\n-dcmdn rûe romd in: elTêlined Dit in l!tuloodding to die lâlc llrh or eely lâh .dû4

F'e53 conniir ddrr, No &r ton mid l!rh..+try L dotr (a) ddair of rdr dd srqdsr. rBl

(Pritchard 193,1,,17, s9), sherê they ry haEtulfilled . pùriculr tun.1io, vhich G as y.t ui.krM. Otbef clorhs oJ iis twc hæo heen reordcd Êom nve Fdês in lùd. swden. whichae dabd to the second hâI of ore lllh.êotw(Ijndslrùm 1976,234), whêre they ipFrb hd;beetr uÈd as oen or shtuuù, dd Lhù aresomêriûes prest in snÉs ddi4 fi om ur! llhto 14th cenrurics ir F,ûldd. îcse iiclude r burirl tson tlre CâthedËl sree!, winche{d, md mo$cr in a iône coffin at Sr ludmt Ch!!.h.Orôrd (Croffoot lgqr.176) 'ûis seems to renecr a bias bwids ûomiic sites sd hâs sivenri* b ùe su$srion ûù Lle cloth.oL'ld fiarebeù @d Jo. hairhirrs. lvÉpDins rhe dead inIri*hiG Ès nd mnnned to ûû {s rd clerics,John Alte Bûylle. a London reaEi lbr emdè,lilled in 1352 th.l his body should bc buried inthis wy (i.e. ir dlidb) (c:l ]{llls I. (jô4).

À dûth oI a similr reigh1 and {eâve Rd forwÉp!i4 a !or!.c bûêd at sr M4! Priùd,lïedord. !6 'Jenhhdas sdol Ethpdh,nsoàrhâir (cârter & Henshll 1057. 102 3). The Ideis or, v ùÉê ha ryle ,inildr ro sur:I.d rpelsool LoLlay rd incluùes niturilbrcrrotorêdnbres. Hence, mol û.y somcrincs lwe b*nsubstitutod lor *Mùrn md Dinb to ùorhe. rêgion,l ditrerence in oisin Io! sofre ol rhe

Linen textiles

Thè q!âiilty or lino toniles lEm mhaælogicaldeposits in London is disppoinrùgly sn ll hÈGE or s6êÉlly ûntavounhle lo.al sil @rditions A numbe. of chæed pie.es wrerewered lion â uth{ùtry depGit ar Aldd-ûùbury in $e cit (No 414),4d alhough lhefibres ha€ nt b&r Dositicly iddtfed 6 nd,dr hct that ùê ùrdds hft ûtæn€d theirtorm vheD burnt sugges Lhat thry mre a €serâble frbre and nol wol

"trich  b'shly conrbù$

iblê. oùer ftàlnmb (Nos {09 sd 413) wepreserRd *ithin l"r€6 oI æs d.lins t thescond hr]f or ihe 13th cmtn y md rhe ldê uùcslury ai MLK76, md ftese snps wre pmbèblr æd âs snilary loFls ùd lflârory papei6i.1iôÉ Io. which mors ând snippee of rcollencloth wre als. enployed (Greis l$r, 23D. An-othêr pise orlinen, wbich was recoÉrêd fôt anèârly lslh{ntuly wacrF@l r*hent dump atTI-74, È Ddlly co.ted in a bla.k subsl:nce, possibly pilclt, vhich ênabled the clôrh to suflire indop brial mnditions (No 403).

Ail but one oJthep clod's re simil in wm,terè ûid quâlity, hwins ùeen wn in a balmced tabby bindinl, Iron Zspû yarn (table I,rls 5,!). ftey may have bæn blêâched, but this

h q(m) wp/Ntr qd!/wù

has nd hæa confirm€d malrdcally md uFbleâched flæn .loth ws,Le ridêly u*d. rindoI thh medium srade must hâE h€en Ery common dd udfleâr, bedlino heâderiusùd âprôns wodd onen htu bæn mde tôû it

Sef-patterned lresi€s

Only thc ld sal burnr l!ænenls ofi6 r litUeirsishr inb the vide nùlse olef.p.nerned lindtabrics âvâilablê in ûêdierâl tnndôn Iôr G âsbblecldhs, naplins, tuÈ, Td pillM oêG.]ne doLh app€rs to be â type oJ hmkâbact lidrtrûp flMb on one hce {nd wennoals on lhe oùer(rns 56). a hbric which retuins ro tàis dâJ po!ûlar lor rMh bûÉ ol ib âbiliry ro ibsôrb moistue. No sinilI cloL'rs darins ro ih€ 12Lh centnyIÉF bed h.ed, ,]lnough jt À poss]ble ddDielts àre rrosftd in cutnonu lreâsuries for

FjÊ55vÛûdrft,hgiheiruderdjlhè,.M6Ê n, Rniùnt ûats4tu, MsBaÀ]! 1,is3)

Iles6cbtedh@tdahEkabækddh'

srratt€rred lins h6 a lds Elrop€i hisrorr.]ne tlftud or s Badrild (died .630) in cfielles,mrlhern Fnnce, has bdds ôll&.kô,ct bode.iis a min wh ofhbbyçirÀ alæp€i pile but ùistu cdsidêred io b€ a nu.h olds drtà (l:pft193t, 10r)-1, 6p 2r. rrmênk @sêned ÂmAnslcsxon buijûts inctùde h€ûingùone.Ioæru€ atrd m*ne sills, eme @bôly ieports! otheB perh:ps nade ùy lie se reaErewho D'oduen ilne ft)u shed rurs1èds (cmr6ot$4, {22, 124, 439-41 Cmsfôot lônndnins A).Dd, cloth in a hùo.onb mæ ws reffiedlrcm a l0th.drny dêposir in Ydk (wâtt n 1930,3t3,fu 6, pl )â./a). Simjlar ùd môrê elâbodêpâtbro5 h:r b€€n É(ùde'l frùm !rus on rhecomùe , p€niùhny 'n the re'ntory of ÙeAlmaûni in ùe.€nbai md $uttêrn RhinèlmdGilndt 1930, l5l-dl Hudi 19&, 207-û Adde.Jorlbsm 1936.35q BenderJ,rssff 1$7, 24; Bênde..torsensen 193q û{ âg 263), a rÈgon ûra1hâs romainêd fmdsiofib l gh q!âliB'

An indi€tiôn of thê Eiêty oI sefrernedeèæ pmdmd in Londd i! dre later niddlêaqÊs is Dreided by sùnd resdations *hich wrewitundoMin1456'so$èrerk,tædi*noude, snale kno{ês, theyn6 rn wrk,'elrylètte6 , dd idûæk hod6 with dre chap.ekn6 tre flong the i,Tê iLmjsed (ùNitt193J, ?06 7). Nap€ry æd trels of 'Ià.is *ukae ale speilied shNins lhât by rhê niddlê ôIdr r-5ô cûtûy ùe llne signifi€d quâliq 6textw Elher thd plæ ôl o.iqin. TlEe is littiedoùb! rh€r€1ore, thar iI lind ws nôre tult.êÉr*nbd i' lhe anhâæloÊiâl rercrd asreater numbêr of Dâtrêûêd clôrls wuld t€loûd lo incræse our utrdersi.ldins of ùis

IjûishingÀlrhoùeh exmples ol linfl cloths ee æ 66tunievzl deposib i! bndoq û impldùlas*ciabd *idr dr€ tnishtns ând laundrins ôi linenLlrat is rell reprMted is làe linm sooL'rei orslendèr, mâde noû sl$.

,lnis ws Nd ro LDpÀ1 a gt6 b lin€n, a pqe$ that *6 repeâtedzJ6 ùe hbri. ws wshed æ wll as when it msn4, fld lor Èr$ins sam. Thê bsk ôIlâu{ieFiirrlidd\Ès ndiGisniffai in rediell Etrslnd,6r cleâ4 detuly pressed, vhite linû w rÈFrded 6 a sLlrls symbol ûd ma4v hùshôûswre prepared 10 p.y lo. lhe snices of a hudrs whoE uealu Dâid âmâly. llâb€ûa sireolEdwrd Il, in exmdq employtd $! lMdress (l|1tùa) duins l3llrZ or vhm ùê, Jom,laudeEd tÈ quæn's Mpe-y dd the ôdF,Madda red nr ûe liren ofrhe Qud! ChaD.l(Blæ*lq & HeIfuh r94 93 9,103-9).

Silk textiles

oNn iiuing ùE nedt\al period .lrhough unsu.ccsstul alemp6 may ha\t been mâde 10 eshblsh

in Lhe rei$ of Edwd nr (Dale 1982 .{, 312) maynor ha€ bee. an Èoldei examDle. The couno

fron abroâd rM acofdirsly shirb in inbfEtional reulnns $..{. as imrdtrr is ( hd'$ ! j,,b* in determiniû Nhd {N âqiliblè.

Silk in Roman Britain andAnelo'Saxon England

nre .rlie$ e$mple oi â silt lâbû hos! 6am

hry s ùhÈn rhè coùty wâs dder Ronan n e.It is â *omeric rrill dmast lrom rhe raÉ oI ?

coph.gus embelished {ith Dio'ùs.c fis!res ùdp{ren shells. al Holboroqh. Ke o{ild l9ùt,2,16). îc cloth, dcsribcd by dæsicrl \ribF asùlrlatu or ,.co!trr orirs.hcckcr.d appcdance,nm*s âs ore ,i r edlje! ùGmil \ iù{s *!q,in mncm rùop.. A Nell knNn product of râin

(rD 30r). whi!.r' siNlaral ihal a Àù of ri.cloL\ !:s enrilllii 1o i tininû diily \â$ dNkeçoJ50daa;,,i\icelheelnieo|aweavelir dah silk (wild 1e61, 265). o.ly onc othcr silk.bù is knoM ton Ro'nan Brihii, a lLghsriglt,LmFùe red Die.e tron a 1lh{errury rir ar Col..li.shi a iosû which dr.n rrkcd closc toLordoi i" i,.rorùcêsèF Gxmrred) sil( i\cors eredlikelyt,l,aerôDic rom chi,r (wi1d 1e*1 ?0), Fsibry as thcres!lt orbales ôt dôdr being ùsêd À cutr.n.r' lrymeRt'ads rrun rhe Fr Ea{ F.vi'l(r(. ror rl,ispmdnc ws obhined 6om Aftl Stein\ eKrNrrions âtthe @ison toM olt ulmon$erou{eol

ol sik doù d.liru ro dF 2nd .e ûJ us roundinsùibed in Chinese chmadeA ù {e,shing708.75a Cro^) and po$csins a nluc or li18

noncba uDib (stcin 1921 37ir-1).The disintegrailon dd.ollâpse ol ùe lùmm

eene âaleded l,)l! diratr! ùdwdks or ùJ)pllad, altholqh cerûin ronnodities lron lùdsbordêring L\c Meditemnee rea.,ied $e petty

mirddringrheSrhindljlh.emri!!.Iideed,ùe moi elaborâlely innished ra\ts in re( rlre

Cortlneit hck silk fabrics, ules thê sùips orgokl broradin! rrùD !om,{isl,ead{ll"$es o,ndhar .omc fiom silk braids (Croxjoot & H.{kès1967. 5D Neitlisr dr. TÀp1ov brro{ buirl inuu*i!3hl6hn{ÙrrtsùiiHù]sljipbsiârin Sufo[(riù ù!n sDeûâtulâr rdains olrnateÉi, werû yieldd my lr@enrs oI silk clolh or

odr ol ân enbroider.v oi linên. tuùnd inside âmeul Élic box in r child s @ve d l\nl!,M (n.bry, Kcnr {croxJoot 1933, 112), is L\e hst ar.hæolodcd @ideme ftr L\e pr.s.n.c ofsilk in 7lnrenlury Eqla(L r Friod wri, d w.iinr nNr.csindi.ab a i'rllx oi si[{ doth.

on. rcen lor rhe increNed volme oI silkrab.i$ n.àhiùÂ Fr"gland ws ihc spr.ad orch islimily, vhnh bd o inDrovÈd .ormûicatioiswith Rome wtrre supplies oI silli dorh !e.e pleÈ

tdù,1,,rle, drar i" De(uadi"t lil{ii, Kns orNorthLnbrû (rillj-63:). b &ce/ the Chi{iao

(shenE"Price re55,113), rvhich it.:n be asured

Rich patons $ere ale inspned 10 donnt to drechùdr ùe cosrlje$ oJ rîndy soods AlNin oi

lulbmci.s inrenloven rh told lhd Os{ald.r.nc or Noinmbi? (ô33-ri41), D.esenled 1o rrr.hûn li.s hc hâd tomdd (DodFll 11j82, 12e).111e denùd lor cilk clod' {trs nor. howwer .orôned ro ecclsidlcal Èrnras aid br .636^ldhclm. a wc* $xon churchnun, derribed

',ed slees (Dod* [ 1932. r{5r (]v.trcm.k.,

Despire rhe* do.û@ery releren.e, rhenmbù ôf e y medi@.I silk bfles DresFedin Dûcland È vqry smaù 'his my be due in pafrro rhe pi âÊr ol the Mkinas. Normds &d pGiesbnl4atoÈ. 10 oùrbreaks oI tire, and 1ô rhèneltjns dom orEold Ur-"id Iôr bù1ùon The be*knoh âre ùose a$o.ided qih rnc reiics oI Icuthbd præed in Dùhm c.riiêd.rt, whichspa ihe 71h to.dy 12ri .emxris fld includenâg'nenls or at La$ l0 dife.ent fabrics, in dd|tion to mbroidûtès and bnids Theyùe to datclipple,ienF lb] un\ on.(bnêd oRe dàûi!tob(rôtu{nêbiee rentu4 ârurôKho uù^aEnred.loLh romd mùn! I lâre 7ih oredtv 3rh@ilury ner,Morkels h6d coniâi ins oiher.ontircnbl ic6i from Tare6.ll lhorpc, tj.colnshife (ctu\loot forrh.on ins B).

Ii vie{ oI Ùre sparse qrùliir ofsjlk dorhr orestud in EngraN ddtns ro rtr. 3ù Gntw. ir iscurious to find lhalDiecs oJN! silk dorhs on $êconrincnr haè ar rimë b4i ctaimed æ ̂ ,!lGS:xôn. Aoù are by hGiori.al hdirion ase.irirldwillt 3rh{enh!-y nig[sh nÈsioiarics. *nl ro.onrfr pâgân âreas ot nold'ern Drope onedoù. reputed ro h'c b6r uÉd lo wâ!ih. reli.sofst Llbwin (died .770) ard nG in Lh. M!$èumHel caiharijn{onvè , ure.rit depi.ls Lhe ffgure or a sq6t mn in ro$c's wiib inrùrned feetmd otrt tunèd hmds beeer t\! hâlf ssrio&dtreê. bat-lkcn with bl, tr$m ud rotde (Iic 17.v * f f | 935 ln rP rJdPmm$l r l L r ' l l i FeJdbmm otr a faded yeltoN ù h rornd is oridtedlo{ârds the senÆdsc in rhe ù.nner oJnry eùtvclôll$Qnng1331,96 ?),ândFrhaps*asprrotabordcr rcæaicd alois sIJoù sides ot rhe ctodr. riis a loo*lJ' wH 1.2 $pfr râ.gd .omFud sinsiûr a main v@ oJsilsle mds, æpt*here rheêids were o(Giônâll! eicred dotrble or den in

11'c o 'er clorh, pd ofile soùlled.er, orslHdiidis aod si Rcli'di\ lho were si$ers ùdabbeses supposedly .orsrnlcd by stwillibmrd àtrI s Bonibce resDe.lirch. rormsonc orthe re6ùes ot in. .hrch oJ I cdhoineai lt?asêik, IÈlsiun The cloth, ako &wô jn ar.lj !€fr hccd conrrlund ({i11, hâs âpâtrern mvcnin o[€ srei on . r.ndish prole mud .ompos.d ôf n)E ot cùc1s ii dre .enrc or rhi.h aklng is enthroned holdiis I s.epre or crcs, ind's âcompmjed by rbe insc.ipriôn.vq. in rmlin.s ofcapiuls oÈ 53itsùdny 1984, 75 €, fiÂ2, pr

::,

hFen. 3-i0m'. (rrurun Hd câdÉrirnsonrir.

L R!d.y & lwddle 1934, 72 ol nI; Bu.tnv &Tftddle 1935,367-70. Dls Ll Ll-Vlbt

Boû.roùs are ctudc 6rhrive Die.ls ofa sh.dard or desis dd cxecurion tù bcloç thal DGdLced in inp..iÀl Blanrine $lrkshops îcy

silured mâtry hmdreds or niles apd. l.he Lèl>wii dô'h. wi'h iE iik Jif r lJctje My JDDrc.iàbr, rwin, prc.ro[qcâuad b! lhe use oftusrrir dyes .td orienbl iisldive paturn. cârbe idenrified ùrh a Fotrp ôr rex{jtes clâsjfied âs

ffiI

Asia \as indeed the sotrr.e ol ùry silk .lorlisrc.ordcd 6om eanr- nediMl Eu.ope irrludiq

lorb oûe lrom dris (lioi (CrtrrcerTa)lorle3e4 311-2). md so {ooca.li.* Ffr.rr.d silk cloth presded lronl,idm (Prit.hdd 1e34. 71). By .onûær ùeD0sjlk will' jls l in' ii$rjpliÔ| {À Drobab|yp.odn.ed in Neslern Durope (Dudry & T{eddiê1935,370), bui ir is extemely unlikely ù( theeôrkshor *as sitûabd iD hdâ.d

Ë

aidai'ÎIl (shcphcrd 1e31, 107, 1lÈ20), rhenrk rdcri!( t) â villa. i.ar Rukhm vhich isi.sùibed on one of dre cloihs. T]iee {ere p*drc.d in workshols ù Slgdja (ûdlerlu,b.khbr). c.ftâr ^siâ. a rcmob spor dose to âpdh ol rhe Silk Road, {hkh thereby proùded ârcure oI cornNnl.a{i{n 'irh i}. kn c.tual

Il'e eslâblishmqr ot â bishopric in bndon6Tm D 004 mlld haft tuded Àins or dk tuntqhjnss b ùe cilyi chmhe\ nd n pârli|utùio s hul s C.lhedrâj. No rêfêrù$s io 'tu srlvMples haEbeen tn ed, but by the êdiy roi;Mtlry. wh€. thc tM s dûê oi@wtdion iodshinêd bact{b çitàin Lhe CiLy qtk. rherc is doù.menbry sidencê lof silken Èsrneds iû ihe riltot Tho'lrd, Bi+op i l,ndm ano{lleù r%2.152) Hêàp@drlr b{uhri whirê ud a !êtLNch?suble whd he uibd ràvi? 'n noiàrr; tbtyduiosrhe ni$ haltoltlc lorh .iohfy.,fter ù€are lràsneû ôf silk clor\. lieaé wr rê@red duriaq lhe esdi@ oI a loth.mtldbuildinsùd sequmæ ofpits ât Mijt sbæ! hrÀ;{est of ùe cny, in 1976, bd @Dprisê sit ihs(Prit hùd l9&.59 1j3). Ftu tre flâr rcæi oFsistins ôI a@ t bbr.mm cloths *irh 7_ sid.,.JurD !n ud ltn yrn lackins âny âppre.iaùtetuist a labùrvren nbbon ûrdc Ddilv trônFès. sirk and a 1.2lrftfacêd comFu;d Mjn*nh tne ends orbôth ûrè mir wD âid hinâùqwrD lacki.s in twi$tand vir5 !€ft lifeads of!ed-,vtub æd br!e.'Ihe prcducûon cdres lbr rh*clolhs orc nôr linitd iù ore coulry. The nr$$!, neilher of whi.h âorr€a b hee becn dyed,we Frtups w(M in slal uôd mrlshob*iihir ùe Byrùrine c@te. Thc ribbon. whùmuld als hm heen rchtirely chear iù prcducesinæ the yrn is noL hishly orocs*d. È difielrto asiF, ùut mar bar be€n }(mn sonewhêrêfther eas hecu* oI làe âbsùc or r{isr in ihewfp. Mêùwhile rhe pârbrned doù ro shicft d\eribb.n ws slit!.hed B pmbaùty ùe proiuctofamrkshoD in enbalÀsia thê orhd M sllk irêm\pr,.srcd ttum10th{e ûy l,ndon ârc ùd orapliêd rurd :nd bÉid vhich kro ùobabi mourârùed rocly tm inpodei rhrad flrc5e tu,dom sulvikh ltom t nd4i e@has'* rhe Lonsdhl]nes trr {hich silk omlditiês wr Êaqûendy hsponed ând rûeal lnât silk !A eilàblê in em<qurûlry n Fnsljsh toMs durjm ûeItL ,shry ou'er t,sns, nobbv Yurk md\rh.h6bi reiiroto. rhE inpRrnôn b ùahæ3âleyieldêdâsmâ numbrof Darerned dpl8in silk hbics lrom lolh- and ndrailû dFposls (\{âlbn rgasa, 360-6rr crowloot 1990, 4734). It is, howi only vhen the lofrbs ofprel{aso. rhc noùiljh? ae opened ùat Dduerned clolhsæer m erêâbr mmbtrs! in aaordâncê *irhmlenak pre*rud ii ùeasuries .nd shrin6.

35

Neii\6 souEe, therelæ, prdides a ftI rsrcse atiù orthe n$t olsùt5 in cieutârioû rdcrdlhq @mDlemênt êach olh6

More làm one qpe d todn % @lorcd foreejm dre eJ]y \ilt shrfr supptiêd b !triqtaùI.Tnt d,?$ loom, knM b h:F brm m use bv !hê3rd dtury0, N6dre aost co@1d ioi.i(sp a). ciosêly assciared wiL\ this loôn in the4r!.tudi&d period B $e kn-âc€n ofræud Nill p.publy Lrsn Js tr tr ntNhàploitcd thê lllfuUs quâljry or s' k ! atltrbæby ftâtins à smooh Etô*J srrhre ur toæ ùrn,Èb.fteerlje rffdes h# only one;ùcnd in propinion ro e.h àindi4 €nd By ûê tab3jn rd eâny $ir cenûries ihê usc of dùubte (orrEircd) min ends b{ùe a omon latue ofclolàs mukctured wilhin Byhtium, rie su.pêrb trarih ùd Ooan silk. vhich Ms æMtedro r]]e \hnne ol st cuthbtG po$jb[, tr ldneMdslân ii 931, or by rnm Ldnund d g4.t uDba ennryafte.itwnads, ùeirs jusjde ôrn;wffipr6 (Ilân4d xrs6. 57: Hiffins 1939. 336-7i GnueFlùlor r$94. 34! Grft.Tavtor1949C. is5, 162 1l Thi\ .h:nse ha; bR; ât.ùibuted to tie irhdu.rim of â ridû loon, dêElop€d io û.oduæ h€eier ùd mre luùimrmult.oloued .lûLhs (Muthssius 193{, l,to asnv silk be@c hæ Milâhle in tàÈ rest, od lothê e orttro nllen lor làe ur! i6bâd ofoilyonei which etubled dre rension on ttE main }ftand binding @p to bê âdj6bd s.!ftretr Âm.in ':r! oT paned cnds uas nor. hôwer lheplerogarirc of thê Byarine Mdd æd mbe incnb2l Aia âiso prcdùced trnsed oDourdtwills virft dris chmreri$ic lrom àl leâs tiie 3th.ùtnr (SheDherd 1$! n9 24. Sieninor ditrddces ii ùe lrtner in {hi.h rhe lb *sreared. t{isêd bd dyed, in addirion 6 srtidcqualti6, n@r1helos, help b dislineish rÀeDtodd or.olres in Àsia and Mêdibnnêrnlands, al$olsb $ndin6 no læal pcculiâriri6@ as yet be de&.bd ro hêle idenrify rhe {hereaboub orronuh.tùe Indei, widêtv disærcdwrkshops in Islric countriè frquellii camêundÈ rhr.onûo of , sinslê rukr @siry Frrsns robe opipd ùd à$imibred virhn a sr

cs cmon bm sire we Fometric ândfgured MjI dm6ki whN &auty dependeduoon{brlêpâurdefiê.6olodnsdnslishr4dduuù$5 nrheriha à brilliinr ùlêneof mto6

nrq,ljle rdt Ll.ed compoùd Nills, {erc a 1âteclâsicâl inh..itdc md it aFa.s both trrt'Iom i,, ihe san,e c.nûes, si,,ce ertaii snalEeoû'.ti. ralld.s d. ù,nfron n, Ùolh lyres olchn (aihneddiûr97s,153) ttdn $iu dmsksmd sn{-" Ioud rheir my 10 chioa, whefe dr.!$uc imirûd on 1001 100ns, but vhirc rhc wrrfaced co'npornd sil remaiied 0opllar in rhew!,llill dafr a*swturniured indimirishinenumb.re by Lhc 3th .cnhq md did not retun iosidesprcad hsû until $e rne rth ceitur]ehctr lIry wr. i'nponùd riù'n oir l:ar Fi{ a( lherime olrhÈ Prx Monsolici (*e p 99)

Àioil'd rn,dclolù.îo{rudionreFesenredtou eârly.nèdidâl silk hdcs in t almd is{he welûpatemed rabby, olvhich a dâlnati. prescncd amo.a thc f.rics of I cdr,be4 sas nàde(lilanaso 1956, 1.1+505i CnnserT.ylor D39Â303-10). The rw welrarerned lahbies ùsed inlbe drlnatic har Fomebic paftrns rornied byine parem wn beins boud by æry siilh {arDend (nmâFn 1e56, s0.r) Th. !!Ne j\ rech.iiolly le$ aaomDlished rhù drâryloom \wenclo(hs irtl us prcbrbly prcdù.ld on a hoûont,loom $hich had an cftr M.p rolrq a md côiftnins presel{bd etrds (ûery si{h end in rbisi',shtr.N),,{11 rries oirauenr sricks (Joqhe &'lnvenier r!73,32). silk wen-paturncd hbbics,like mmy dmsks, rended io be nono.tuon,ê Àlûi and mofc .ôn'prcx, qrp! ôf efrpâlicnredbbby is iicùded a'noislhe ftxtiles iad l,ndon

BytheUm.cnhancwl'Fsofmonochm'.c-nû{ wcr. ompôuid ssd?s kftMi rday ælmpN whi.h dohd Irom rtæG expcrimcnring !iù dif{enl bindi4s on ihe drsloom ,lithc urc pcriod ,s tlDcs ôf co,npornd iwilr ùfsr ro cir.ulab iD.hding a lnuD known as'in.ci i*ill\ rroù' ùe vry thar the parern a@eaA10 bè dlfrÉd on the surâce oJ thc doih.-nriseïecr *âs â..hised by heins M wfr ydN ol asijniraiô, âro,ûdsimil,4ldou.,hicùrhsrlheych.ited Dositior lroû ùe tue to tbe rftÆ sideof rhe clorh cau\en  bÊak 10 appear oudùi.s a

br been idenhriln fto,n mông lhe rs 10rh md]r0i{cnt!fy bitjlcs ûcn ded fron Enllish 0ùtex6 .lrho$h nûe0us exmdcs mùr inrombs, Leastries md inside boo!.wcs on theLnntj.cnt butancady.xmpl.ôf ,srrtrlived

i_1,!. of la'npas, which is @hiic.llji ard stlilic.Iy .l{Mly r.l.Gd lo i',ci*d ùills. hm ùe6re.oered non a silt in lrndon (No 459).

Anorher variery ol onpoud rùl prcdù.ed at

or pmtôiim.sk iiom rhe arremnce of rhe con!a$is le{uB of rhe Èreft ard rùe somd.$ese silks rere ale pmdûed in mono.hromc

ùÈnls oI ùe oI thesè lroto ù'nEk .,ldhs itrerddered Éom rhe romb oI Ed{rd rhe Confti$r (di.d 101j6) {hd it m opcred iû lvcsrminsÈrabbey ii 16€s dùring prerùâriois torthe.ôrôùiion ôrJx,n.s Ir (Dbdçe[ ]9s2, r6D. Thqde Dr*tud loii.y in the Vidona md AlbefrMu*m md alihowh $e Ê@rent re krysnal d,e parcrn cn b. rroNrrctcd (l is se)ilm si'nilar piteried doùs recNred Irm rhegra{s oI ùËry lllh- anl r21h{dùry cermmFbkbs including PoF Clcmc tl (dicd 10,17)(MûIerthri$cn*n $60, 6H, fiss 31s), Àrhbishop ̂ r.ôld I ol lii.r (dn{ llÂi) (K.ddri.k1925,.I2. t2. no 1023i$" .kds r$7. 65,69 4), mdPhitiD ol svâbia (died 1203) olùlte.chrisensmd ,r €72, fiss 1512 13). frcm thh di*ilrûjon it.m be i"iÈiied djt d\êse teÈiles sere orignrdldjplûnalic titrs. ard ir l'.s ùeei arsxed thâr l{iqldqrd Éretud his m a roronalion cin Êom rByârine empdtr in $r3 (ciseær 1s32, e0)

Sourtes of supply in the 12ih to14th centffies

ryzntjtr'n {as a rooMed cdte oi silk {eâviqci. d,.ea yrnslivrl Deriod but ib imponm.e asâ euR ol supply ro Eqlând diminishcd Mnberor ùc br of conùnimplê in 120,1. sivillgMy b in. prcdtr.Ls ôrIsr,,nic spaiù Act{ih ua!rerned çnh vh.t irrees to be a Fn or hq.{i(Flikê bnds, whi.h !âs rdovefed liom r dèposit i, r,ndon daûûs io.133È40, j5 rhrddrjipâftmêd hbri. calal@ed here If whi.h a lJy,niùr rigi,, ci,, ù^\ibly be rB'ed (No 139),âlhoqh a sorcc in sprin n o.d4s nofc

The Ilrh md l3rh ceniùies *erc ndken by aninûcrsins u$ of,ncbl L\roâir in sirk ..r, {hs olreiùis Nâs u$d rs r brocadins rhread ro emphæis.

ilii:ffiH{lijffiff.tiâ$iË'

ffi:ffi;!ffiHitr,ffi#ffiffi

lulose libn .ôr. È amory thosc pr.s.ned lNo1,!0); it c ptub.blv sDmish h oricin

Spâin r:s ilmoi €naidy 1l!, Énlû.riôtrsr'nr tu moil'cr SDc of ldt hced conDoùdbeill ioùd in â lar. l3dk nbri_v r,ndon deposit(No 3es). This is â ljshl{ll{.Iôil' ol a iyp.which ms popular in mnh e$ Dutupe .irolsholt the 131\.cntu4, sobâbly b{ause ilva\.omùLraliely cr,ea!. Thc âtr,o!ûr ofsilk lrd in thcsccloL\s Ms rcduced by en1lioylÂq â n.ii wp ofsiîsle âL\cr thm dotrble rhrea.t, vhile rl,e eittlod wè l! qil'ûtrcd b .Ncr rhre bindiq .ndsnthe. lnù ju$ $o FuitherDore. tic dyestuffsbnden io he 1ss ligbr liB{. lerlq^ I( uv rlrdy.bârh.ônbimd \rakc solutions ol dye or rhesilk yûn ws dipped fto then lor a shoner he

The quantily or silk t.rùli s r.tulii.a wsbrnEu.opc from c.niEl ASLL rppeùs ro IrE dimitrGhêd aner dF 10th c.nhn y, ptubably b{ruse oI

rEs. Sode dorhs fo'n wsr .ênh1 Asi: nddaring ro ûe 12$ md l3rlr erruries h^c, rlyr

sûies i. ûonheri !ûope O{ùlle.Chisten*n1933-4, l3É4: wjl(k{'s 1937, 7È7i$rd{dl1989, 175 .!,!). tinties in invenlories s{s$st rh.t

1ùita a"d Cttthi"E

a sma[ ftnib.f or patu' ncd ràbric rom the Iftidle El$ çlre ale to be seên i', Etrgldd, and âIe{texliles rhich kre Fi,rbly Fnlùrd in rofkshoos i. lrm hrrc b.cn idùtiircd mory lie.es

13ti3 (fiq 60) eRo Elrlsra). The c.!sdes,whi.h begm in rhe lâre lxh cemury and o!

Ynied rhe oloorùif tor silks toom mdydilGk souaes ro be l.iNDo,red 10 halaulrd sôni. Di.c.s cs b. .ônsido cd as thc spoilsofur ûthe.har ieùs of mm'eriat cntc{rise.SupDlies ol.lolhs lrom fLdher ed dô ûi q{i!rtô havc fcsumcd und ih. s..ond quaier oI thè13tl' ceitury wh.tr hde roùtts stethins lromrl,e iudirenNrL t, rhc 14llor s* s.fc ,cop.ûcd duing the roLtrs oI lhe NloÂqol .otrqùei (L.pcz 1952, ?:). A Chinese i$i[ dmâskfrÙù , dqn\ii b l.ndm datiq to ihc scÙndquder ol rhe rJd' .eù!ry h repre*Mriv. ofthÈ rensr:l oI ronrad No 133).

$'.ihm aid.û.c indiotcs thât cloths {oven inl'eii.eWe]v]]ltrbleinL.ndonbyd].middleo|the 13Ù, cedùry Oau rq69,5l7), 'hil. by rh.carl! 14th .cnhq bqlish relerd.Ès ro

kccbese cb is brqe incr6inslv ùmmonplace. PûMde, on làe deù in filff.)1$eQuæn Dowcei Lldy Mâ@et seond çire oIEdqrd I, Fees ofl/ahee dorh kre l:jd uûônhe. body, beciûni4 Mth rtru d Mdborù;trWilbhLe, ûd indæina tô si:ùhên. s*fl dr;lJtr. hr body ws @û@6' y et&êd ro r€* lnùp ( huch ol the FnùÉ lvima London (SllDtaonla16, 33?). O@sionrly pâtt 16 on ctoris a!bibuled 1o Lù@ re deribed in dûcùnênh À,trthese tud io ùe of a lâb. r,ltlrcdlùrr date. À0Eddy d @.]hmb h lvtuinsf abhalaken in 13€€ ti6b a ft madeÉon sriæd ctôù ;rFrd of Llu of eiou€ olù, &iil in$bêLl\it\ 'tiuûs1e6 (bôt"o o&i dê Lûa wt ..).^ 4ncu!,arnd di6t:hbit iMtu\ pivn tdùê abbE by Sinon Ljrghàm !hô nn i nodtine.wæArchb shoporCrErbuwandvhodrcdin 1376 (Iigg 1390. 203-9 229, 252 261)r a clorhràich resûbhq ihis desaiorion is mrn bv Srlohn in the Dnrcer rehbtc. Noflkh. rÉi.hms p,jnled ai a simjlar peiod in the taie t4rhentury (AMdêr & Bnski 1937, 5lfÈr7. nû7ll). ln addidon, a kshenr reinrd b i!, pâiêdRôÙ olr,|03 ed srH by Henry Iv ro rhe rhroel otNdinstùn, Fas rude ol clodr ol sotd of rjceùth aqgers of suld ùd mh,nlpls 6mirh 1307.r70), md : F{frent made tom r snitr'dzrdd. l'\âM tue,L d,? t.,ùûwL à. tu-wn^n8 &ods *Eed lrôm Pleshviasrle. E;ù in1397 d tlle do*û61of Îmæ ôt woodnock.Dulc ol G ouæqû O'nor & ç toh! Hooê tb972q6) Irê* de{npùun\ indi!àh rhe ;of Êolltirerd jn dorls prcdftd n r!ru. Fotrdrfi.ænlry .esu.rions, hôlffi, shM L\ar a codsj.demble fùE€ oI pl,in ûd pâhded sjlla wre@r orere a|9 0nns & xiq 1933, 66_70.

lceallày cirteG dLondôn âs Ett æ L\s cmMod nôblês bought lI:lim clork. lncs wietudc up into turn shins\ 4d dodrins dd ùÏeobûmdbipods, rle bbrirs tr/e h.ded downhm,mê æoeEûon ro moùE Ttu! r 1305.Edirh $ho wÀ ê l,ndon bre rùd widôv ô.Rôbert 1e Paûei &quealhed ro her ni{e a mafûes cofr (ùr.tiz) ôf silt pred dM ùr en.trê willr a clorh olvenice (û/ ûtÀ I rs ô.

It b nd mrir rhe uE t4 th entuB ù:t mfternedrlodF ol llilian ()l@ re hounFnd hn dcposib in Lddon, aln\olsh nâry orùe Dtzin silksftom làre i3ù 4,1 âly l4rà @nhd dems6whih mre on n used À tniûgs ma ie;m€

39

rrôh .enE* in lrajy aI eishr oârkrned ctodr s mrmpÀ ree rl*red ian a ldÉ lrh.rm'rvdepocjr n r,ndor wrê prcbabty Drcduced i;Ibly 0{os 33æ!a) trd rhsrcma;rhrsnqsmup khni.itù as k ts 5i]ùsbcal[, None;?be pabmr *em ro be ideûbcàt ro tho* re@rded bêIôre md lhe, add b the âdæ ol dadesnples An lblid ehe lDbabty ats àcctub,br rhe plain s'lk Ltolhq in sù wâE Nos345 344), dd the h€T{itÀ EIFE (Nos 3{9-3?).ùhhh æne 6!m dêoôsib of lhe sm€ lâb rù-céntuy d,ie, This is nearly loo yeæ alter siindd €lv€l æ 6d rmrded from Enst,id eirhprin witt6 dæunsts or in rlr iùrn ol r\e mûdmkiil lor Engliqh hb'o'dery. ùd I tren{.b6 0r the dillerdr milieu fon rhch rft e.Gdêdbnihselmat AyêltoFish{otmeddjndm6k 0.Jo 336), *hi.h muld dale rd the 15b,1mtry, Â aloiner dôù dDr .ù be clajmed 6ftaiiân. Ii ap!€ars the.eror., û-om ûe ardDætcE cui reord ihâl IâIm ùbiics ousted SDmishdoùs ir Ûr tu8 i+ mùkd by rie r4ù ænnn.rùhne thl3 mpre$Lùû d be rêiilôfted

"iihsràkr p.{isiôn ôm win n soreq rhê d;dence of lhe kies iiemslB otrm a n6hp€6peu€ ôn tre subjed æd brin$ the clortrs

In rÀe desùirtions ofnle silk ctortrs rhât folnplajn, tabblvMn cloûs de disdssrd bebrep€ftrned dotÀs od satn kæ de desibed

Tabby-sor/en clorfisPlâjn, bbby.M hbrics de ntre 6lmdhm p€tterned ônes m@ tÀe sjtk t xriles do-r.bd ftm t ndon.'fhêy æ muntered ùsitls in the Ciç fm ihe 10th enbn onozJnsùd,dêspit thêir smltjû ùI brdin( ihe !soEidmbu 'n q€ht due ro differtrss in in:@uit or ùe }!rn ùd L\e w ùât ir rc Drcce*\ed. ln conù_d b other cloihs desdihêi hoùs brùme a t ae nmber or bbbies rebjn oneof their hb slwd8r\ sussêsrins ihd û4 sænot alwF ws in *ide {jdlhs. ThÈ is b .ôfresle ær'f rûed by rêli( reils dtuc b rtu medjd p€riod prêftd in (d6i.sriat lbudùrims d dr clnûnent sm or vhich ùe hâderom cô@leE loomfidths rhùs rnn chûrcnlàedral md rhêÀnbey ol$n4ùrice in ssiftr

l.ùd re 1\o labby wren silks ônly 310m, (12t.Lns) aM 1uh]ù û5ninj(!.hûddiq 1978 rùs ?9.193) 'ltere is nserùcle$ \ ritctr cliden e for {ider hbic i" iibbvlmve Tdrebs produced itr Florcnft bdwer1352 md I r29. rô' dmrDle, werê requned ro bel /. bÉc.ir lidè (.1095m) wirh!,' rl'. sclEdges(Monrtrs 1933. 3ô). *hil. in h(. rhe maugr4lâdor\ or 1i170 sliLr(labd thâl brord rirdâs\hdid he n ler$ 2 bncia tid. (]]rrnm) Ki4

t,hrr $o{n sùlq re.ld!'rl r la, ilm Llne i u hP s { u f r l . JÙ t . dnd ' h? nLsP n trrbrn: !it';' t a.h s.ouD À .ho di$ussed

Tàbbies s1lm iom y.m lâd{ntg

Tta' . ae orb nru silk laùLi( s or Iin ûpe lroùftdievâldeN\iG itr thc City ol which one Nær{,!dcd liom a deFsit daÙry ro rl,c .dly 13th.eitur rid thr dl{,ltro 6om derusir\ or LhLr r l l h 4 i ! r y f t ! è r [Ê . r r i e ! !À$Ù\ r t ] ' 'saqr rnd \th y.ni of â similÂr {eLdt (.0 0:lnmin diam.ten Æd r$ r behmcd bindiu (:6/34rhreads |rr crl) vith . sLsht! optn rexttr. (\or2l;,FsôI.rtrppe$nol!,1,{v! b..ndved.

Tht lâler Diercs a, c ditr rcn( .nd hm nolicÈahly i,ôrc th.eaits i', ôm sy$em thatr rlLo orh..(h; .loth r wover lhtuùlhôut fion . si'niltryrn and hâs,lLl3: thftids per cm (No 140),whil. the olher so h?ve nDDnxln{.rv slcc as

1$L;k aad ctathi"!

nrîy th.erds in one sysem $ j,' ih. orhe., o{'il1o the use oI liner va.n as \t[ .s clo$r spacedrnred\ in om qstù. Nùmber 320 hâs 5?/24dycads oer .m md r"o 321 hâs 58 r;0/33 th readspef cn.]lre itrm.r n r shÙt silk Nin raD a.dtrft yrrs ol diÏÈrent colou6, thc mor. closlvstu ê lihr.ad,lr n! liarûculouFll (Fi{ 621rrrb t,,Lutr ù,tui!fte i\ \Libl. tù i - r. butic{s hiled ro idendly ù. ûcscnce ol 3!'v

shd silk fÀb.ics $hich .ôùbin{i !ùD lnl fffrof diderènr côlous lere ûd iN in the l1tr' .eotun mn llr tud dû mo$ silk ym \ns dvdlbeùr. it lzs !0m encouroed 1l'i5 ivD. or palEmm c RDoLln.llli. \.uqac+rd lhlr/drrdd lu^!ô ,hn. rfttrêlIa',gled. {as shot si& lâÏek O..hc[ l$?, r4l$ and rvbne (hn j\ plÀusible it is nore Fobab ernal rlr dôrli had a con0ô!trd w€lt s(rdùrc aslabr xrliân kring 'eB,ldiôtrs iDdicde (lçis &Kne 1tr33. 74) Vcdisil Daen'cd fâbi,s dni'hd. a m o md wefr olâ slish(ly dirucnr tint âtdit is.ot âl$"âys cenii" vhdhcr it qs bc.ause$ey ra'r rrôn r diferent di€ bd.ri or vhdh.' itsâs d.libeûte: in vieN oflhe hjrh dcgrcc 01 technical skjl prtrale ii ù. silk indu$r.v dre lâkr nlDre ljk.ly lvool Lbrics $tre also snncÛm.sro lenqùJ q lp s l l r " r ' r l i f f mh le r t { l tnp !n llÙeJloLoucd lLorh\ Gct P:l) H do: r ûic luhu' lialriren{d,{ quli$ of silkesla ial\ L\âl{hich has not bccn thro{n, g'ves r

Fle63silkdoÙr5rytr'otz$hEdqnyh

t7. rtun j rak r4'h{erq de@sr. r}q hrE bem

Gee riq ûa ld r deuit ofihe *@). s.ate t14 rùsr No 320, ûon â râb 14ndtury de@siL

much subdù elGd dd ràis led to lhê bm'chânsdble betns âDplied to shot tâtu ùd s.

Tabl's m nun Ztristeal Mrp ramùd qæû ym lftkbgapprEciabt€ rqidMô* of dre bbby.wn s rs incndcd hûê hmrlapyrn *hi.h G Zsisted and â kft@ ùarllck ev eDràrllte r*isr {F,6 $ ùd erThrre mtuur6!m htê r3Lhffntrydr@s ùd46rDm drenh4 d€@sils Al ùê tEhMiqhrr,bri6 u,uàlv uiLh s sfsh(v sërtr iumbe;ôfênds per m thu piclT, âid slrm he . no.e00en te*u e um otls. Tle wùF ytrn isefls,axy finêr lhù ùe *dr, ô(,@ ôI $s rq{ û!inb ii. Semlæn ollhese tedilês D.eft ûde oflàèir slEdg€s Clàhle t0). AII æ srslrhdedrilà at leæt one ed!ê oid. Nrs ro ù edge cod

s î

F{64 S.,fur diâsnm sho"6g ùe rbrud d6Ê v

reiFmviÙ'o[Ni{b*dm43Mnl.-

r1É65 sirk ddh !!v! tù ?-lsiicd w4 rm

tùn a lâc ù'h{qiury dcpcil iL\r do r, oob ùesrûbs ii rhe ÈrL. !ftlc u, aB) ddail or s\dge

È usuall! a na(,N widrh of Fa- .losd! spa.qlends. o.côioiallv \ith â ùr ,i erds in bês?rn(. No 4r?). S.merinês a selldg. has a w\ud.od or morc ofr.tr â slkne of.ords usd i)riioaflent (No!lr?3 323,raùlt r0.Fsrj5,nl{{ n,. h(d ^re mo.e conùôi on eldhs i ..:'nd ii dF lde l4rh c.tury j" r,ndon, trû. .lDr.sil,lfe nmber of Fkliles n bo nirl loDtoÉ lnat thh hâ! r,y \jriJrr.e elher ior $.daLe o, p1a.ê ôr m.nrûcù .. 11r (.ldh s tronr 1,ts13d' aùl r1lh{tnrù,1i In on dcposirs me.trserlhele$, di*iirkhable lrom drûsê ii ur inFDsrrrd dums die 10rh md uth .. ihtr e\ yhnhrHe fi.qfdrr ,, te inro heâddre$es ltr.sare noi rs fiie N rh. 1rr.r nrlli, qtt hbics ahav. I iùi)Rrd selvedses f.de 6on 3 s.ri$ d1x ed ènds, Nhi.h olt! nnnber aamd 10 ùLns(l4urrksius 1$2lr lr? ô r}it hÀd re,ç1. ijilrjl:

s i neen ,1 ,h . q rM ',iF ih{ Èmdiied dirûld h $(urrûLrn\ 'Inrc.

Drôvùl rr lak been d!êd \rirh thci',rcr dye kcnnês. rhree yith mÀlrl( r trrlnLinsonc vhth {n5 .ornliined wirli a lello\r d!T. xtrdM {ith ùridentjti.d d!.N"rÀ. one Dolsibly I tidn siyiry â bluish DuDlè dF and th. dlLer rred drr r:ighiF{ neatrive rsdrs, ùtrtÉ-c0 ôfrnesc âre n.iièd thc Fld.nnnrwo which in silkralrl i.s i\ dler indiGiir ofr vedctoih.rj.qii,nre dis.oloEnôn rhar ll$e {*û1es hNp unirgone in û soir, eùqh of th. ôrilinl ri ispr.s.mdi,F,uden4'derod'en.obuA lvoor the .lorhs dyrd {ith r.nres eDer 10 h$!l,û{ ùLle pùlish ùarve dhcr n â .lolershâdc of, ..1 ih. hù. of r1le ûnd pi.ce n Fss eâsyrodrcrn,i,,.bdn16probxblyârlrk{ljnl 1tc.roirN dsr wilh mâdder rlI shol \?rianoN tn.orour inlensiç mngiDs ft1fl knndojed (No 3]u.PrlA) Lo drk ùi,nsôi lnljk.prr.nùl\jl$dthÈ ln I ûr, \omc ot rhcs pt.in ctodF m), liôebeen pK. d!r.l {r{i! * Kin( 1933. i5)

\lo$..lodr of rhis ryÉfornd iû irrirjj !a-

ha\€ be.n usù]æ lirirls or frcincs ro {..11$I rrb lrrus rhe sirk hcing: rôi btrro,lnes(!os:r2 31,6{.67. iX 159. figr l3- 8). U?.lÙ ) i b rnone \ l aL { ! LÀo , 1 r , r I rE r d ! l ! saNoolq f ia i33r rà mt nk r:!o7! fhr3irdda nec! openiq (No 50. pt 28) ae â[ ot rhis 6Eas â.e rlo ri,,i,,gs colered h '1{\ of niLchiqoios 35, 136. FiL\ t5t 152) th. ùtou. or th.n.

srlk lâ.ingr ùd li.i.!s n ({sineûd! gor|etrcLro{d!re brlMmd iri!iioubinlird,j }ûedyed nro .uDrki n\Lt]l rieldcd i,À!di!e resrlrs cJos33,67) CorlemloD'1 ;NïDbr jes xnd{ardrobc ac.oûi\ ini.de did \m comnhr

enhrsilkfal.r.$'.hâsbnrônor rzi:r.b.rliih\er dyed I sirrilx' .ôtrr b Lh.t{ or dre gu.trrrr. hn'nes oir.otunrinr.,htr ni ôùûdr vu r i r , , J L . tuncÊ

i i s nÛon ,À ' uk i ,hn dù$lâl1D 1397 \r.s o.r or trl'(,1, ' inslN(h{hibta,rirji Nhirh\ksullÉiid :its.sdOilLon & stjohn Hots 1119?. 3011

làbbies srre lrod 7-rnisted y:ùt:id,r \i k labbG iioù Lde 11th{.ùu.r drDos{sr L.ndoi x,1 q,trû, lroirqnrh{isâtl/_jDrl

T1r.rrr htr\I hm5 ûii Li r.ù..tôrhrtrNorf oJ thc sitk yânL 4lpers.o hN b.o dlrr rrL ( rhis rcmrjN ro bc

L Ê ê n t r b L l l l t r ! . h û r r r t J t d ! t r [ i rL,erie! J3 a ô0 ods tonl i2 a,il 52 Di.h FrcD alrl 'oLd, Ù'e oDdù.$ ol rhc ktr lj i\ fd,ydthêrhrÈrdstobrn.ht)Frherinrs; SeltdgGdû.o ese'rd ôr slo Dirccs I Ldt, ir e rhda.lerÈcd b! a lrjer oI pân.d eids 2ô orirr tr a{idrb ôr ii Jrmr on om ddr .t 70 lars iù .ùixh { rllm otr rhê rlher \!lri.h ;i5 i,tddrL i i l r i r J r r r i | \ u j r r B h h r .

n,âI.!ùùanspafen irGùqunrijû!lhrnoncrarh ! lirks.{ùm\r, r,rlerrrenrsedn!âg{

nrt l nnLn in lhÈ trk P onl:i l]fi.:dth{.j!cli

d!tu! lor ùei try rr heel rils sinrr nr! sc.rp:

rntr',À (aso !t rir.r'r Ulr i! 1$) A rlilnùrLe ian sirtril. lirhll\ rilkd z rim yrn i:rsociatcd {ith a r .liquaq ôr di. viqrtr xrrry ir

ùiiûlentory01l31; (:thft ddingL9;8 3lr!11.no:94) llrn rhlh rhnh

\rorr trùn b\::us.I l ïneir obrnitr.d nom âlt.ieii,ioLlLM (àtd,,rrr) ronnon ir rhè

lcùje. leie rr)

lik! rhov disù:3i hù.. siflihr liclrii.isht\tiÈinbal{n.dkbb! biidinssha\rlr.ùd.nri

lridls.liù,.ddiisrl/3.r91 19/ r90 9L.io:lriilî?.??r)., rlr* Dflùleorelhnhprrser!.sns (onDLtte |(Dradth of tlilrnn' (ln Dt orln

lr@ r0r[ ùtri rtùrcnl4 depoits in DubliriH{.kdr rgd; LtL: oiLrh? r93s 1;6) bùr D.rt

Tabby-woven cloths withseli'pattemed bânds

l l r l . . . f r h | j  h . { N l J j i n n \ ] l L L i l ] b j t . d lri({i!d ! llii+rif >oa\rèar h.èdllnds l&riLlÈ iere\ r,rle rlree riù],. r {id." oi. llaùed

ùj!!u (li5 ôi lis. r2llp.obrblr h t been rtleted ar t optssl. .id

n\r!ùLhÈlorû.-fh!m n ier is &!tn J.oilrer nr! yâm \jLh â slighr zrrij ahil. thc

$mp shLs ir I oiê iteF rN, rrlr ûrrûrlyr rrtr{rr,,fn,r, o,rl* tr | rrror.nh4 ir rn!

n,r similrriq ol |bcr rdllc !rs.{i d d'.v

,';ai'

Selecled calaloguc 111

rirsLk 5Lû1tr r o! i {a $,hxî (t.

3Lrtrlss (i0n0) qi (i)

1Ù jFI\ Ndl (iù (jùoùpldd

i\iIL (i)silk. slsri z si. l iû pilks a! ûr( i)sil. nrahr z rÈnL. or*r dft (i).

r1 ùrù{s i1 nùin xh I irr dro\s 16 i n) Èd, n i,rùû$ldr (ij (ùùrqùrr

Tabby-mvm cloih with band inl.:l twill

sriÉd silk rlolhs beùk i',.c.\irsly NNIÎ ii

îÈy n.ted nom rrrôN pinstipls in âxerm!ingcolou s 1o vidcbï,d\ùk fln,lljlhâri'ialsrtrd kti. or Naskhi sùipt inco.po.dins ùe1.1dtr,"ad rM :r m,ry as six differcnr roLo,ùs ol silkyirr.1l,e luûr(r ',trh.n ril,, iG D.xtrt thatin sprin rnrc.r r hre nnmber {tre \rowi. rhechfÀtin kius issnd dec.ees Drol'ililrjrgll'sr

M.y 1951. 108) Uiry $rip.d ùat rials rdernick cloths $!ver i', fotrEorf(l rvlll. bù rl' h rpi...\ w.f. alsô Dro.luc.d and th.sc have lith!o!d d{erioûrn i ks src.PstuÙ)

One fr?gmen( of r rlri! \ilk .ldl, \jll ' riùs

ùtrrderD\iliilnidôd Themarvc*inahbbyrii,ntiu r,b ftre,r r) r d,Nhilcdrbmd 23mr deeD. È roûposed oiîhreeq?frn..d Nill s! $cs No\tr in }hite si1[ rlreâd(F{ij!r.Prr{B) T}o dh.r nrirt'\ aliù nab.ltriththr $iLlcdr(tred ones bnL thèn.hùâûer js !ircnrD oliq rù rhe deùy oI rhr qtlr rlre si"

boih ûese a e?s 11relikeliriN,lisih, rh(r r, f.*ov.tr ii mhl drmd o. a celulo* Îbi!, trollbly Jlax. h!. ù, trlt rnaùvc posibiliry is thd rhenodânlryd r),iy ihc rlYt 1d n'ây hâv. rmÈcncd n,. qrn and mrde il nore nÉ.epribl. rô

nelallj. or .,'lûn d n . Dr pmbxbl. orvins to irsruftpositio. riù {hile sill .rtrl rhis arsFstr!trir{ L\ê trsc ol lineû ùreâd, rhich xns rre

siùilÂr chns pils ed ii tre6lfipr oiirD iÈr1trdc::iacen stipes or hrÊ a seer rrnd sjùfrlii\ ( {iûtr vâ, tr..p.trtly p odu..d using an i.onmoldmL vhn h is iororiolrror.trùsing silk iibÈsb disinleFâc, ir i\ i,!se{e,l1l4 rl( dj"irayajï .ôuld ha\r b..i F ccn siLk

Iloria.râl baidr xover i!' 1 3 $ill $s e a Ie*rne or nrary ligl'N id'r \ilk fl{,il '! ii rh.l{tlr.cntury. althoLqh ie! in dhedr.l rlGur:es rsso.iabd {iL\ fehc rm be doselv d{{l

dud. pad or r r[qud! .oFr ir rhe abbey or srNlâuito. Swihndd t is ol alJmn {li(nl

blk Fle seen. whn!, red rùd !ello{, emndins ro â vidrn oI30Im or ? red rdti! g(Nùl(:iliùrl'lj,'s r$?li le5, Do rd)). In additon,.'nou thÈ ùedievaltuûishincs and veshentItum lhe À{trieùirhe, CdrÈ* i. I d6!,N. i" âNl,ibchiL,.ssilldmækLiû.d{ithaviolersiÙ{ljatened ùirh Nill brids in whire, pâlc ' d anl!r.à: trmther silk linin! ha\ i sq,e(e ollhitr

bluexnd.ed$dlbandsoiâsreenFomd (IlÀtrn6sky 1933. \,, 2i, 31 nos 73,123 fi! 2t) AtudFr.lolh, vhich \:s u{d iô .dg{, I irner:lÉll lrotr' rhis rhuch ûi Cdâ.sk hrs a grc.nhbby FnuM Datunrd siih wt'ire, @te b1F, redfld r,.[ov rraids 5jm yide mltn i'r I 3 v*Èchr*u, rwil (r\tunnoùsky 1933, v. 16. no D hg25). As Jor f@.n6 ffotrr i.wù ercavarions, âpi{e vas rc.overed i!ù â deFsir in txb..kp,ovciomly ,r{ed 10 ùe 15û rntory ûtdoNr$7 r94 fig ?). ln c*!npl. prcseftd in thelibry ol cmrcfbfy cathed.il is Étho ditfo .nûy .oloucd \iic," il hâs â broM, $ùne atrdfed band 23m lide in 1.3 mfr{hA n,i rslil of Iy,ll{,} L,l,by @ud (Robinen & tlrquh:trr t9ir1,131, no r0d). ̂ chdel.ri\ri. oI these ctoùsrlhnh m bê n,ore e.silv dG.c'ncd 6.0ù rrr.cxâtrur.s whi.h ha\t nor been buied ii dre soil.n {he subile shot ?ppcafù.. of rr,e naù \taveQfted by usiq a main wfr olâ sùghdr difiùcnr

'll'e in0od.nce of such srip.d sjlk rlorh

nuld tu{ be ovenooked. ûen drou{h only on.r:gmcnt hxs b..n r.ùl{,ed trom rhe r.ÎdôtrÊxcmtions, siice .lolhs of thÈ chrad.r ùyh,y a:le{r as â desiF somc irf dre disrindnrhorizonhl sbiFd voor dô is inût in searrabùdmcc in r4th.ertor! deposih in rh. cir)(smp52 $3) Sùirrd silk Lbris Mr. ôiipi usedas ldnas Ior sculrclothiN as $( ll ,a nnmenNin no.Lhen r,ùop. and Jor Jùnishi.F orricurarry bedhùsjiss 'nrs hdginss e. onqrde$ribed âs rùrn in inRntorics, Dfcnmàblr rrùni]anr n D( on ùe siù{ libres (Dilloi & sr johnHope 1897, 54). nr râJrfud rrofl' ldon ùùclore scnesastrvalurbleFintcrtollraisô,n,,,rrh.n 5t lql rabri$ ftrùa[r- lookcd likê

Selected câtalosue IV

\ilrt lr sirk.rrdllriEu\.rcr\ibhnù" :2

(it srk mtr! il ÈLil!. û, isibr! nin.

rà1!o: 1i ùnE (.1ûùr) vliirf

d dnsd ftdû Rù b ûc ni(r)

Weft-oaûer'ned tâbbyTwo r;@renb ora lishNeish( silk do$ worr jlmft @ndn.d rbrr! wre tomd b dre nI oI ac.spit d.ling ro the *cond harf df 1l,e 11lh ceF!i',\ ! I\kes Place Ine dôir .ppeâr s 10 havcone xrp x ûo mi! uÈ rinni.e ù. gfôlidrd ùc od,er ,e ldrh (rs 70,7r). nr, Lrrihor di. u ri 0oaN are ine$ âf md ir is mrenan{helhèr the picc. {âs r'ôv.r q, I d.iNtoom or oii oom {nn ,nulriplê pân4n tuds. ftc d.!.t,4rment or clotl's iirh rlLi\ ryle ol Neav. has blent?ccd tom l.re .I.$icrl anbqu itr/ rô rl

" n {lier:l

p.fio,r (nan4ân 1s56, ,rsi ej.torlrhê ri: liv..nierrgri),butflrn iidi(ilyotdi(ere typêsoflerrâftrned taùbies in the ftr.12ù.'d t3rlrc.ntùri.\ rù5 rcl been effinêd ir .dv depthikrÈ the smalL solc Ft n,, wl,idr ronsisb or âqrlre ctuss i,rfined *ith nnr bæDFs, has â rt:Fat oDb 20inn, it, widrh and heishr nE yùn ismt of, consislently high qualiry .rd {{qsionâllyilrre me shbs in rhl aroùid *!l simila' mfrpatumcd bbrri.s. jrnniiu dorhs bro.rded iisold Lhread lirh in$iptjois in ]\râbj(., Lave beendiribûled ro Mrl{shops ii Sp.in (Nockcrt &

Select€d catâlo!.ue V

F ç 7 Ù N c f r ' F e m È d , h ! r y N l $ ' . o i d j '

3.1 twill damask

T{o ôafrds or r Nill dmasL cloL\ paftmed'irii smâll, styÙsed reonies (Ês 7)A), werc rccdned nm $e derr,sit ât Bc72 daliqq r0 thes(ond qua.br of thc 14th .enrry. Thc dorn belos to a \t ordmask {hich s,lved in chiûa

dtrnq L're l3t\ ærbir, lreed bdù in hhniqueatd sqle lrom ils dàadGl miecedènts ooishe {:Tienùef 1932, 22!. Unlikc eû[er trrefndmaslq the$ $iù damasks are or mbâlm.edkÆ {ith a clo*ly st .@ lmdu.i1rg a slossvtrrp n6 ùd J ihn kêr mo e widèI \Ë.cd scfr{h t rha i f sàdu l l l ùo } r ' r ncùÉs$hae 'he {dpredonirates (Fig i',iB). ]Ïere is no apldetrlcousisenq ir tlre clorns as b {h.u'cr the sdrror dre s€n ares foi,n thc Eturni on $e r,ndoncloù 0r. wp hce ol rhe sill Joms Ù'è !rôù.d.

A1 leâ$ 16 ol rhæ .1,)ùs ârc knæ! lron

miihern [uroo. {),k . ;] .eddish Durlle ciÙ1 Dnrre.ned sih .roud rrells {nùlj,i;q in;orbli$. vâ, ode inro a dtrlùari. ior th. HôlvRomâi Empcror rnr is Fseftd ii dri\ i l ' l i i ? l h d r r d ' n e f \ r n à ! q r \T(Èrn! r er ,7 g lj :2q h^ Jl) nth! skre $ed Ior chnrblcs. alb. çoinls md rcliouary l)iqs r.hu.h.s rid.dhed.rh h Fnrt;d.S\redcn Pohnd. (ir,,oy. fte Ndherl.nds ardBelgim oiry M oth.r .xmlil\ u iLh Engljsh

msociariôish.@ been I sosnii.d one iomênvii sr jforn\ chtrf.h cdwfrlr, HliijredôNlùre. tr an ô4iyN nrrle ilm a butcol

!ur.d damrsk md is ed'broldêfcd i!' ,tAQdr?m, Niln hemktir \hields djliayi"( rl,,rm.,,r cli ,n âM lrybornc (chrishe 1938.16 ! jonghe & Tâ!!ri ier 1932. 216, 230, lâble 31.Th.sctumsenablert,edphny bb.li"k.d$th1\'jlliâù dc clL'ton. a boyhood .oùprlioi ôrljd\rddIlI. ]onaiedlL iradelal,orrein13:19 Î,e o1he4 j,ùqiortcd iDto thc ba.k or morph.y embtuiderèd h â sqle {hkh .d bciided b.1330to 1350 (ling 1963 16. rc r0r). i\alr n làded b,,rr ùlo!f, rd È prft.û.d \ithso'2s of iloNers, lrobâbly !€oiiês Borh pie.esdFreloÉ, p,alide .oroùora1ile evideù. rôr rli.Dreyr.. ol sû.h .loth iD [neland duins thè ar!

Èviderce lrom Cl'iu fd ih. pmductior or th..lodr in rhc 131\ .enhq .omès tom rhe tonb orHu.ng Sheng, â 17 rnld gi who died in 1213.She !a the dnùghr.r ôrthc slDc'aisr ofro, .igntâd. in Ouâùhou.ILiiâû (Ftrkiên) Provin.e, ândiie {iJe ola ninor nenbe. or{hc ;ipùjâl rrmilyB{.âûs. or hcr high shhs she \rs bûièd in l.!ùh slyle {:th a conipLt. wrùobe oI cloLies nndhoùsehold ilfls. Âù't rl. t mnnous Éficû orsilk goods Ncrc till damsl$ in.hdiig oie 1É.trned wiù psni.s md aother rirh brancl'es olplm r,los,n (Fujiàt sh.q riomsun 1s82, pls

The Fterns oJ rhe damasl{s virl, riihj(,bnds àùd lcaqs or di. oricnt cloud rro[s mdasotud nowÈ^ a folla!€ iiêquendy dÈposedin d À'mretical mamer orer a ljvjd ùrniînld r,xriLs pmdrcd in ljurcpe in the Ltè r]lh ûtr|edly l4rh .erturies lhe Fonies rpresented onine r.n ton lqrile hùe a. uù.âliilc M\- ourli'r oJ .u.llns leaves n Jorû of on'ân'ent ihrtDe6hbd lor mmy .enrùies in rhe Fù Flas(Rawr relJ. 8:l:i) aM $hich MS u{d âs deoEtion on {ide ntge ofaneraG, indùdrs ùehl$rk,læque$!ft md rDrcelair, r\ s,ll as tie!,L,tukl.rd aM \N.n Mics. '|he coloLtrs ùlthc orienlâl cloths ale display a difer.m pâletreÈom those produced ù lenen' Hifu! rrd rhrriiÈof dnk,b.quoGc,otrgeandFeenlerè{oh e .Lno$ as an inpoùnt ùnhence on $e ùL-ouing oI lexliles. puijculrlr rlio$ pmdûcd inlùlian .itics ftom the serond qudlèr ùf the ljth

clorh desis, Dy, nsE iidi.dd dr. Drcscncc or{M dle{ufir ôi rl'. iwill dânxk fioD l,ndo( aFd dlt rtrd r rtllow ore îF fêd dys k mâddcr

linna atd Ctaulrg

vhile t'c dri rrùr {lii.h tl,. rrllo{ dlc N6.nmctd mnuins unideûrified Àl th. yfl 3Fo.vs io hak ben dyed alike l1tr rrr l!ùdq'

fhere are ho\rdr4 sôr,. rnmplrs oi rhevdamsks \Ntr lr oD Ml atrl r, tr yam of conta$ins.olorG !hich throv ù dre 0aft.n inofc

îe !reseo(. ri srl' atr .xotic silk in lrth..rtu'a lindon is nor sùprhiig

'l.l'c.{abhsh

û,en ôfthp r oDr::ol dnDire in Air ùi odly l, {l i)rhe H{rr!!(,iùad. roubs lith thr l.ar lj.nduing the 13ù rÈin,î bùt rl$ inspned a voFefor ofienùl dÉs.orir..s as ihoM by ttu *otir buri.l robes ofcliÊrând! della s.rla. rhe oltnord oI rleûr(died L3re) (\'lqi! o teej) Irr i'npa.t ol remqd .o0hd xith the eis \r.s 16; imrked inEùgla althôlsh ir noressed Lhe Dolrlar in4i

orhry satiisl Lo roùa.v châriq in his bookn.Àn&sr,ndr Nlrelerirs dqD.i!l' b.sof( orNr b râM ànl .rolh or 'rarrqr (coodridÊe196ij.l$6 boolt):D.{hil.drtounmenthel.li',Cheâpside in l3Jl Fldw,l lll âtd l,h .ou'tic, ss.,t dr.s.d ir thc :Sle ol'lLturs .l 4d rMift!,litor Îotuffit 1 bîati lsz$ntt 1!28. t\2)A,,m dr ?ùÀ. I u,r'j,nolrii( cloth orxn ,{sirno.iÂitr, hrd b.cn boushr lù rhè Crett ll'rdtubeor se€61osrsions belo.e rhis ndr (lvllr sl0Êg ]1rl m2) ïnl ir h rFciti.d rlso in somelLtlr{cntury liils rd in\orories in.ludins ûe{iI ol !'|rl]d le ityilourde lr{I,x. r l.trdonùfuy, !l,o bdtraih.d a snall Nlts roltredNith clolh ol I ds ù l,is dtrtrghbis son Anbnine.in 13tl (Câl wills Il.63r) sjl|iJlrâtrlr', on tln soccsio's b thc otsDLng der È ol rhe 1,1th..rtur.v Tar* prir..s fding r the !e!c'! donjGioN or rrtr \'lors,l onlii'r rri .,wF to !ûoJÉto sxin suopofr in I bni rù drive the vrDelùkesoùt or Pâl.sÙe lnese Nlotrgol a',l,nssdl,islere rerenïd n rh jt,aihl, court by [dvrd I in13lxr md 1303. md br l]d{trrd n i'r 1307(Irorn$rin r91t 11L14t. clean! dH Ji tnnâùc'iissjtn\ In,!i.l.d aî oDFtunû tu siÙt .lothsIrom rhe Lr l]l! ù b,. ex.hatrc.d âs :dN alon!rirn porrclâin. \hid, is rl!, orûntrr.d b LnFlhhhotrs.hokhord,clJthctdq (\\Ihirebotrsê

1.2 9|

Sr[(tcd citi ôS r" \'I

1.2 ùeft'fâced compomd twi slh dn..1.2 wt r, fa( L (ro4ound nyills ù.h{ledin ùis $ud! Fi! IDorLù dùosirvli D! h Lhr1{rrr ùrfr!. Tro pdicfn.d û.res {rf. rc.rvertdtom â.l.Nriiuf 'rÉ seroirLquâlrr ôr|re r1lh renrùry rùd. DtlLin ribi ir iôf a ltqr^{of.133Èu00 An thr.e.torhs lirp I nuin q2.D.nrru]]Gd siLk rln ud tiri!î3) r,ùdtrcù$th{

Tht old.{nfiob.U!xpicc. oarcûc,t vjrhapair ôr I nr\ (l.Jo r39. fis 711 ajrtj- prt of drrêpei(isDesrnrd n,ôsir!ireourlineotab nl.rsnrrL! adoltorâ omm inp.otit.!irti iL\n, r

ror in'@ btside ir From this it m be d.d!c.dd,at oâi;s ôr facing Ùids, more inan eom inheiûht lee {ovcn in hôrianbl os âcmss ûecloth. Thc oncitd coloùs or dre silk v$ns hMiâded bur di. bird's Fûiry br4$ rehins a !ryeôr omk. and: Fe? rYc loe hid en'ntlê. iLe]; rd ro. a: .o lrr rnund

wFn rrun silk aod rl[1 rhreÀr N! !0,lion ! dê

Lanaa cktht s

ând bn ledhen ar. les dinincl bu| inc bnd iscledlv Dcrched itr a sitri',! posilion It G notkno; wheine.lhe bi|ds Rre en.losed wilhin ai me or romd.l. tor alL\oqh tl,e{ xtre.0'nnôn Lhcr vere noi univ.rul Gee lor êmltechxftÊlre l9ll.339. no Ar crmÂd & lÆ-seneei', 1987. 21È17, no Mld3)_

I"de bnd Ddefm Nerè @ru1I in dF 10in toeelv il(h ùniuies aûd thev o(ur iû mmv ditlerent bDes ot bindin!. trsmples bourd in ftl!turd lomeounLl iwil nlludêd lrs< urih. oteap[ illL. ;rh as thor !rt*rud m l]firêrdiredrâI. Alsbiâ, anl rlic shrcud orst Germai'i

r Àuere. f'ue (Kcndri.k 1$:5. 3 -9) {ii.h\o . D[ssi]nired i. Blari m ro. sifrs nr iheGcn.tri snpùo. ul his urr. fans ot I.(caarj,Lg bnds rHe ako .omor otr so i,h dorhs, ih. Lrl , 1 L\hrp êrl llii 7P

\ l û . .u . ] q , l ] \ b?arribrtd ir sdlt. trê ortlinat souR. rJ 1lrL.idor ù@rcnr È rlntt.rofc Lmccûir.

T|e oLher pfiùkd pic.. w,s orqnxllr trnorLluôûr ddh ot silver (No ll0. fll5]\) r,cm.brrrrie inrhi.h rln ldlerû *àr {oren u:!! {l r\ a onrinm$ *dl throùshôû irLe leb xDd

nrrll 4Ê+ ul br- t I\ d1 r i dP i i , t i 5 th r : r : r n \ . n? f tb r r i r uDr.r dc vi\inc ùndêr filnih.arior nu\sir otù,e surltLre or ih. rhn?d |r Xff nro$ rhat dr.n,ekl is jlve4.9ur! purc {irh.,2{ roDp.f:idn r \ r i , \ , f 3 t L t t r d d r r r r I . f l

r r ? r ! r . L ! L l n ! n f t t r( re u r,irh has disiûelrd{L in rtr. !,jl 1:1rÈ suÉsr ihat $..ôn 16 a.ellulôsê nDre p.obrbtyrrneD or hê,.D T\a oth.r Etrt n, vens kr. Gàlir rll. {.ro1r, one, pênr.!'s oici,rallJ oùlteioûred thc o.nd trùr. nrH{1ù. ôùtinrdrtr\ver É(ùn 11rÈ silk ya Ni tu rhe mrj,r\îr aùr r,i n'g $dp h exkeml! lir, db.ks ùv rppr.ciabr rr { oig 75)

orry â ùÉrr rmr oL ù pxfrù i ir Fesedtd,lroD rlii.h il .d, Le einutud drar rhe .cEr { 15Fcaiê.hù 5nmirh.i4hi{ breâdù rî.onsi\rs or lylÈed palnenès plr..l otr.,rtx^t rFolhercDcrosd wirlL r ciraùlârrânrstroDr \rhi.hsD,our ùêfoir leûd.il: ̂ \({d p1âd md} nmÂ. 13rrr1LlHeisDô. denrro.r\ dirod o.i t u ! , c c r m d . $ i n i h È d ! . s

N ! , r !+ . rLù . t j u r t ' . t ô . L . i n r ! r . 41

âbbniùnennd{h.nel,{{solpradrcrjri robl

uft or sirv.r !,ggens rhd ir È DIjk.Ly rô lj N(bnr*ovûrbelordr.r2Ll'oî(!v.âldrôllri rltrli(r ,'. nùrniq Fnites mr rnr a raLa bixsjdotlx of sirkJ .fe rerorn.d in ùu.h o Li.r ivenrofiês. ii.ludin! r rr{ à,ùir.drs Nbi.h,1.oâr\ sifc oI rlodr ôr sjtvrr q,w.tr i, r\hrj.SDrin that k . ûNnled ro t,opp Cregory j!(3r7-31,1) (ntr\ry5-f.3) ivrrjl.,r jd1[r$drtrscasir!in,rqr,stltrlhrcadiste$oncnm.dnrqln\trtr told rhrrad sih.rr,jF\ i Spâin Die.d Lhatrh{e NN no s.rtri,re shodq. orrl,c nrerât dcspitc I sù.alqr lirrrraninc or'a&n 11]l;7.2 7),

.nd \una ! {,e rcl dependpû on mclrcd bLrll i on1 \ 'mDÉm$tho t r i Lv { r%s .o tÛnJhonaùrs le\riles r'ôFi ii the rcd I mte\ om aBrzaûtitrcetrh Ir {. bù n âp1Fr6 romctirr.s10 have bêei usèd br ]\nb k 4t^ in ûc tzdlc.Dtur-,od rLso in !.{h esûb[nr.d ],^j,rr.eù.s in lù1y !h.n {r{Lards of p.odudo;€n{ ronsidcÉbl! lÏcr.lllrrr1. ros t2.1,1.13.19 2i 19.3{) Tlre lld sùoù pdrrn oith. ddhshols hLmir iiJl!.n. t1 is remùÀ.en( otrùco decoLtion...i\d n ri.r âfil oeLxtwrklam rhc oârâ.r {n Abd âiÈnmri t ir MadjidaL Zânn. soûhem spxin. yhi(.1, \ns buir ii 9lljaf.l wA irnuemed by Syri.n modck atilli{.Ijcr19ô pl Tr; sni ûi 19i6. !o 136) Siinilar s!-lÈcd

of nûla0ior\ ù, ron.hmDiê s.frites and .11r,pdrû ned !i[{s {o!.r b BJ,arLiùm âs $elt .s inrn o(.eù Èind'errh.trri.ùLyl2rhcq{uieslel.r.arkc1913 r.()s r(,r,19,1.197.199:SheDhcrdr9;1. 75),bûnreorianrDtq!lo,stntd;d otrFor N ù{ I Gerùld*i"s fÈ.lutu ov.rân dfù'dei.èpoinhroantslanj.$o'lshoDorddinstr rl'e r2rh or ernj' r3lh rcnbri!\ i';l l;tubâblv

'th. ihird 1? {frra..d lDDoLmd hilt h ù

mrfit'ied s!'p ôr dolh ihat xDfia( h haltb!Èi urd À a lmler (No 336. rt 7û) llr.i,ooLh sûn eotrhectoth. rn\,,1roInhâvir!al,igh d,D\ilyoI$tft ihr.ad\.hemtth \j'ntt;Ditrreri.ls \rr. oq,rlar as Fomd hbf .s Jor emloidq iD Eilland udil t|r mn! I xh entur),

Sclccted câtâlosue VII

$ii: (i) silk. io ri5ibtr ù$riiJ silk. oo ûibh $*r. Ân{ Ù'4 Oûi) sirEr dÊ, ss sed n0d a <tr! d a

Tdtit. ttd ctrthixP

.46 DlncnsioE (L) h rhml { rirhni (i) 1' noi !65m sl ro û) âid rGd orkDl

1.3 $reft-faced @mpoûnd tivilt

One delicar. silk tirsue is {ovetr itr a disiinc(nt 1 3comFmd ril (llô 393 Fis ?t) wklcsprcedsiûglc min mD , tds atu the .lour is lishlwejsht t ritr' c rhile the $n vÀ rm@'r tdnthe wèn yrl in \'rh a Di'rf rs to mke tsliehdy nufy. rir snall pie&s or L\e dorh haveb..n sritch.d ro*rhft ûth silk rhnd whidr nsirÊle nL\er ihm djed (s. pl52) to Jorn {hatùqn , l J imd ' .Fh rhÊa ' I l ! r cp \ " i u rdDou"h . l l r r o ra i i s l ùÀ .n ! l . r l l . l cdq rndws iinished lirh 1!o bbLb that {ere siver qurrer ûtrrs ^.ros one oI Lhe fivc silk smD nns ahoiz.nùl baid boud i. raùbr which us.s â D.fbm wen ola ddkù onngcbrovi hle (Fs ?78).l.ilrc ihc pâ.rcololred çefl nsed tû il'. r.* olrhe clolh, dre omnsÈli,*i yarn Flt â ne$tivcrsulr $l$ i.dcd i)r dyes. A p..ultu Iedùre olùc bmd G thâl the bbby Neave j\ bound b! L\ethreâds oiihe mah {rr rs $tl1as by rhose orthebiNli',s rtrp (fiq 73). Apan Fon the bând lliid'mry be D.û oJâ sling boirlcr di. doth dæs nolapFrto Ùe dl.rn.d but Ihis nai' siniply Fn{(dr. small size ol rhe frâsnenrs.

I ighMish doÙÈ N!.tr in a simild 1.3 Mfr6Éd oûùind sill, have been r$ordflt rroi

rions on ùe c.nlindr (l.]|rcE l9?7, nos 15, 2l;

Lârc r3d,{edq deosili i.{) pi.cs dùe ddh

.ùr. irù rl, (B) dûil .l rabbrrrcEi hd {deFlÊ761îÈlknedr.,!d|i,(i

It

lhin.ddiDs 19i3, nùs 31. 156a, l56b 219-r'lirV.kas193L,?s7 3.û!s3.a,Ïtr7.11{181,nos4.15; Ceuhrïa d ar 1983, tros 17 13) {hilc inEiislxnd thùe is . *al bas mde lron | (ldl' ôrrhis 9!e, $hich is âMrlrd rô â l.to ddins tobetrrefl n! aM 1168, prcseRld i" xÈsûinier^bbry lùlAM 245t) aI $e clorl's hu Î|]Ji'o*inislv t3 ro Ij m ! q ! p.f.m md 1310 lijl, ùliq onls D.' .m. nnd t.ûy have a zrliqondro the v.le of the sill s on (lre t!ùt. rromInrdon The rol,\tr! ùscd rô' t6.m de D.le red,!!t!oN {hib md bn'e ard lmny âpper ro hittded li rddition rhe exrqi. .xcmbd inbndor \!D!s inâi xril bands xtre sotr'tuesi lrodu.cd in | .ùnt6dng bniding rs $ell i\ ir

It hA ben rB,ed rllr dôrlx or ùis tyJÈ ${.F'durd i', soain (:ihtrÈddi',s l97s 2ti5) a(lthat ths shde si', â'ilies silh a djrrii.rje. rrtor .loû câlled ldDm ,ù d,ra in ftiiiÈ! docùroi\ (r).s.sL.rs.i,r $3e,2I, n] l0) i,r,r"rs . .ltrsi.al llin len itr {' .âr or .on. dÉing the nqli,lal Fiod it *Js.ùrliêd to lishboncs. :nd thè relemt ol rlie lorl {âs ddr r I l l d L u f ' l i - J r ' l r r l r c rn rh ! P0 rtrn.,l Fn l \nk rK ,! 1.6* r')) \ ' "?nstudy oI doÙ^ ri arGb suseis rhât I sl} ciâlro ôftli:Dloom orc {iùout shâls u\trliittheir Drodrdjo! rd i( aD.*\ rhâi À similI loonMy tj e ùilr..d ther 13 Nilh âs \ell(r)lxrosicEda/ 1ur9.220 21.ln ro)

Clôdr ol risLr i\ rronlùl h rngLmd Iroi' d'ehn qudnl ôrtlr lrlh.errirJ Gilben Foliol.Rishop oI Loùlon (died ll33) !i( rsô oi.ccs.rdâ ned virlr rrifrtns ro sirhul's cdhednl iô bei,"-d i"b ^h"ds 6p*,* s-F-" ris?.49t, ard it rcnaDed i'L tr! d.od ro.lntiÈJuril l3?0 {vonms 1$r9 29! ]l'e p.:I oI [sloouh, iS in Dlgland hovekr qltrrÀ i, [xv.bper in ùe *o qùrtrr or thc L3th reitulalKiD! r!63. 21) rid dehils Di iÀ !sÈ Àrd &n ùlbc glimpsed iion cod,oll\ t/rh!'Iniôd ln!dorhs boLqhl rrur r'drD dc tsmins lor 26s sdsJt uscd to m&e .id Pmbcùish vaioùs r'(menls in.lùdiq ? dù!n,h. an,ic., nole.ùmirles ofi\ aîd o, phrtys. ând ahô ror Û'ebô'n.r oJa hd 1ortumrd,l'fince of$%les ii r2,!i(CLR, 12 1!1251, l?3). Ar )rlh pi... oJ thc clol hbowhr notr' ih. eDc ldmr dè D.!iÀ â L.ndon.lraFr {ho olh sll)plicd silk Lexliler a,d !.s.nenbtôlleùylILcon l{s.shilcarmspe.inednunll|r,fdôùspmha*dto Gerdd le tsas il1250.oiuaNs lcLR,Ul-r2tr. r$,!,236).1i*dcs lrom EJrdin' ând :iotÈh exo\t'ois sho{1lùlrlr!{ordothofarhtaspfeadbeyo rNdcir.lls A dnvsri4 Drrh ilrmM Nrv in {h!medisd u{ dil1li at ddc.sgde ard r..ôt'td.l!fi'E buildins wo.k in 1932 is mde rroo a .lôrlioI disla Ftcmed rilh swnr, Jl.r.d. Ln md lriDlelo\trql ùjl.s on a lâlli.ÈDate d sromdoràrd Pùkins 1910.161, tig 49), r iltr.fi4feùi of moLher ddli wiù pân: 01 .ddo*.dbn,L oi r loTo,gepdÈûed lroùM \ùe irxLat Kirk Close, turdr (M hesius l9s?, 11i; 7l no29 rlo*ly w,{t I 3 ltn tuccd &mp.md Nins

the dn ostrl ol rh. k(ered I lkl lru.hùrhe

ihnrl qrmG. ol rhe l3rh rnrù4 iidi.des tharrh's hbri.s {.f. rôr :5 hMr\reriq as Dan}

Sclccted câtâlosle \4li

3s !{neosiDs {t h r0.ùù N ieur (t L rsnr }6i'o tiit h1t0nm $r:0ùùùriY)l'1fDn

nei: ( ) iûd (ii) sirk. ù rririt lÈù. eLdiû

(iit 5iù. no riibr. ùisr otuir! Lo{n!É!ù5: \!n (d. i ) r't (iii) k!a't\

Iâmpâs ç€âvesI1 i\ uûrû1ù vlkre h the \'liddle or ri.ar Ean

triqùe had .êùi,,ry {!r,.d ii anl lorkshoJ b!rrtr. r , ro L ùiua. Nr hishty âcrompljshedcloths â$ociaicd dh thc myaL {orkslioDs or rh.tsLlvids iû rnn (e3? 1055) .m b. dr{r by dreniDq]iLaiôN (sl,.Dhù.I 19:i1 5]j: (;'rhe rlj6rl.26) Iî È ùobable dr.Î tlF dorh .onstrction lzsrrom rlre {d i cnded lor ùe \eâviq ol silkrmc ii $btlv dplôit ddrluslcqûlirJ orilrfibre rI cotrrtr$iit rr'. oûen wilh th.l oI rhe!nN(r

'r'hj5 !a5 a.r,i{td l,y l,rir4lg rtie nLinvrp to thc surhc. ofth. clollr. i,rsbÀd on.di,rÂir con.sred ûrhil ilf DaFritrr trs {as dre È.rii.. qùri {ffr rh d ù,nrxuNr re]lr\. ûr ri! i tu.duciu r sro,ù rcn.Ihi.h inte aced ùth thc

or {eri f,.ed cotr,pôrnd sirh aid nvill drnsttsi,' 6dF dùrl En{r, .crL,b silk \taviry .eÈ

iiiil rd ruDâ!trlleû tbks itr dre rllh .etrluô GualLrin omdfùù \l,ii.rv)ry r-etlo\].reen d,nofe ûdy pu.!Le. one prclc ctortr hasrroe. d io M ,r!ql w rh I slkulish pupl., ii,n tarrô die hnèd lirian ourpl. oradkuirj !,ssn.jrs ? Strian sourc for ihat È(i.nlr. enmpl.(s.h nNldiù 1973, r3r turJ3].Eylheendofùe11t1, .êù!ry . more olortul aæ. ôr lâr{!rt.ldl's\N bdns $où in *?$eri IùoDè. pincipalLv siciry aM spâ ù drr(4rrLl'real \]as in!ôdtr.êd to hirhlishl ddails or dr. oâr.,rs.rJf ' j( LLld!rlreheâdsmdreerorbndr:id be.sls.,nslerd or bcins add.d Àr ùrbn, lrcry | ler the.lorhvâs$ôFn \lo.o.koûehb.i$ nornhcr!\Â, .urjNqr (, bc rrud(ed. esÉ.ially ôr

Itutr! rombinârions of$?rês could liè usd iorlrDpxs crori ^ ru) or Dù{rhtuft siltr clorhsdring to arondd the ltÈ nth .cnru,r hxv. a 1ùrir( ;, tr I 2 $iLl oi â labb! Fourd {e s l!tr| r9iirr?9:i(hmedditrg1973,nos1r 1r{.ri3) o ûel.ljermDles Nerc ofrên rôer rih I llossy rtfrrxcd Fibn' bonlr h ir$r- m a ùbdh s?rl}râ.ed ûhbr lrûLùd. I strlc vhiclr is sôn.rj'n.sniled tliNlei âle' Nhd âpp.rn rô hfle teerrh.nrdinzrr:rin r.n fôr di (rdrL (xiu t9rj0.12 45) IlorûFr !!en \rnhin rhis or iicuLrr ûD.ôrl.ùD,s,i uide qriely ol ditre'dÎ{îithc ordoLh &uld bc prodl.cd d.o.ùliù qû rlrrhirkie$es oI ùc difrlrfi çrD ùd \ex !ûnsdr.lfoDonidi oi,ùj,,, ùrs r, biftting ends dddFir spa.int. Àr pFynt no .rDpr.r or ih. dôrri4r,crr 10 be pfesemdL4lmd bui ,qr.atr ôùâsioù[! ùe edincdÉ on witer re.ods ftns . {hirc silk. clotlr F.tr nr d {irl' lnd< ml rees iD 'lMdet (aÂ!?,rtto ltart ùbrabnù otuEtu aritta d n,tùitr6nJ d'iara,rr6) eæ mrde i,tô . .hiinbl! 10'

Bi\tiq, Lr tlrior u0iilr31/5). .rd \N .Jrprendy $i1l itr usc n.rrly ùô

,nlrniory .oDir.d ir 1215 (sr*n^! siq\of

Lù!4ilyof uv isâlsoâleâtrneofth..rrh{lype oI doth in a laD,pas ùt^r .i.aetr ,l rnùlLlDnon c\o 1ss. Frg:7e-!1) r'hÀ*6rt.oe.edin riD. bn.r.d rrd!ùrrr5 râD, irr 1iI ot ? €spùdrtd Ùr' i6 .srù.ired poter to th. sc.ord liâr,i 1rr rnh enrq- fte pn \:s sirùded ii nrepFdnds or Hôrr'lri,,irr Priofy (ruù{r{l i| n0r1).om of rhê richÈl e.de\ir{iùL loudÂtions n

\\?

Wfl'RB3

B;s4

ÈË

kd,\tr

\\:e1'

wFip 7e (ô !'d (!) crod' pdrûcd \irh inr.rûiq

'oi'adaosili4d{iqioreKû'rhd6'ùe

lnndoù and. tron the fiie 'tu]lrr of the cloth,ùere cm belilledoubr rhd rlie r*lile hd toFDicù bccn u*d Jor a vctuut. Indccd, it is bc

buried i,,ve5lnenL\ nàd. rrod sl'nilrrdô0x Dtùe dde olprodu.lion olûre lrndon tedle.an beDrrowed doM 1o (he lale tu o. Drh ænlury

n'c kaf is il m$ud tDc oflampas, hÀing3 p.rern ii â sùùiàcen trbby on a wfr hced 1 2l$illsomd (Fis 3lA). I is jd a mtr'sersiùle

rioD (c) mrk rhe ened dùe cJs@r

dotrble wâP dd Lbc rftrs lâæ hB ùe apnedârè ol an ûràllerncd I 2 L{iÙ, n.iin.r dicmin wp or L\e Ftern ùdt beiag visible Cig8ln). In order b pmdu.! ihis elled rwo Fomdw{s ôr ideiiLâl !.lorr md $ickncs {crc uscdThe û.in ur!, {hich G .omposed of p6tcdends, comes to ùe surfâce on rlre jtuii or0te dùlhlbrming a p?fic.n in outlinc. $e pafrern rtllbound by the main wp :ie cnerses on uresurr{e âlorytl'e li'rè diihe Dâtcn' bri ir is so rinc

:tl

H9GT

thar ir È bx' fry !Èilt.1 x1 r1 utrr(r nr€iindionTlle.lolh:!{rrnisromFsdorinrcs.crin(

ù.rer, endr oûe $ ,uûdiq an .i:rhtpoified

nuJi. lctun. {rri.h cri bê rê&r lirher 's//r., o.ùafuk 0i5i"s) rif r,'&ù tre oGr poinls ùtthe sh od tht rùuinins spac.s r. irJlndNiLh lyrrsed pL o, trmcnr (fis 7s) Th! sub.q drll. |Èren,ii{ di tr. io m lcxlite hA

beer dirJri.inred b! ùs lo.tr iùd shin.d Àjl

c

peamncc, bur iirn,ùùlèly ils $perb $o.kmDd,io.âr bc q{nedâlcd lroù odref crôihs oi linirir

DiJrkishshir.mtrùreof $GÈnn eot\ilrllcsitrRcrguil.fri(o{r\orNhidr?rep'esrnrdindrclùnrtse\rèrbe Àluseun or s.hlôss ah,trldhbu!. Benin Gfrsirs r9r3, r. fis t:j.t.) orhe.

prescm.l i" h Colcsinrn . santr \lx! ia. lr lâNNdr' (Nlaldotrâdo 19i3. pl52), Q!dlirbnli.

I

ù

rig 31 Deùid!.Morddh\oi5e û\) ûùtr.

I.rcr tuxoùy. ùe chtrrch or sr srvniD!,l!l.sd(hl. rhe bre' r$! boù mÈi u ilh I reyparo i on r.rimm gnNùr (Pn5B: NlûhesilLsrofrh.onii"s) rhe Abbe! ol sl t o!, fonqN. .t 'trir rtn | (\-o s3/N/,133 Amâ \rtrdr.çilr DeÊrùrm). rjambcq adrr.d,ar. (;(rùùry. }here0re darrndir in \dri.h RÈho0 ofo ll tdicd 111]1;)nzs buii.d {i\ ùidf ror rhe ..lorh (\lùllerchrisLrs.n1960.Fls1111 1r),B'.riicnr,sr lwr'creAahbishop Bùz.lis/Aleh.ù!l (tid lirJir)

rqs inle' 'td wctri',s r ve$ùÈnl nud.- fioD a0,e exLnùne r Bmbêrs

(Nocken & |{nd\rll l*l; rri. aM i,, Ars{scdhrhal. F,nn.e. {hde ûc nmrd rf IiishopI-Lqer (dl.d 11r1r) À r.lhr {.rorr, 1/ rlris ryJr(shephed 196? 309È9 ir l3: shcphc'n r$7J..0).\$ù 'rrf DdleirN rre no' idend.âr b dratotr d'e.lùlh 6om lnrdoD, ih. ùrirs rtrrir ror.if ed roseûnùhrM ù'lorhrnrtuhùdÉnimrdi,,a âù niJ o. n4ftrnt elentnis Tlr.+ rL{rod D.[erns, ombin.d $iirr rlr u! r,rKrliftsrcrs. enabre dr. .lôrrr to be dribured to an

strbd. Dûèmins d.$n $ oudir. b.ldir r, a

ehool o|inci*d rryills ù$y ôr shich apæd t 'hee beû pnrducsd in Sdiâ. 1000 (Mùlerahristen*n, l9rj0. 5H1) ]àl,Tel{es hdiâûng fnm aneighrFùted slar oD be $en. 6r {]]mDle, it tl'eyellN irciscd sil Nd lbrlhe buial cna$ble drSlBem.rd(dicd 5a)atxânlèt,Cerrmy(lrseiq 1913, L fig sgb) and in rhe clorh ton r..donîc lcftdng, Dùnculdly dÉr in a band runtring.mss thc sle* of olto lll d,lmati., beârs .clo* re*nblflæ b tiat on the sâiled'lioFtudel silL lion lhe ronrb o19 Bêrnânl C.lvô,Bhhop of\'lch, Câhlôni{ (dicd 12,13), as {en.s l.thatôn ihe imidion B&hd.1d silkrmm EUF deosa in Soria 0rovince, SD:in (Sùe0henl 19s7,pls ,!8, ,1C). loth orr'e* cloLhs RÉ aLno$ @rhirly prduced in Islmic Spâin wr'ne it wasndêrihe flie ofùeAlnmeids in thennt h,IoJ

Thc oidmLÈ slg8es, Llre.elore, thal llrcclorh lomd ai Dukes Plæo ms ùc pmduct oI âleadi',g workshop ope.rtins h S0ain in ùe rl|hdd edLt 12$ centuies All exm G ro ascciabd wiù nchly endoMd calesia{iol .{ùsand flie i'fcren.e ru$ Ùe that the cbùs ftrelrifls tro'n ri.h benelâctoro. Tlt doior ùtrld pe.

Gn (rhÈ nDslq m,ii .nds to o0c bùdi( qO, Cq)no , (B) dsbjl of{or scal.5:r

haDs hee been the kins or qûeen in rhe câs ofHolyTririly Friôry, vtu.h mi.@ned .lo* rovaLomNtions rhroushoùt ihe Îrsl hala ôr ûre l2L\ænba ùd LÉorKn! \tcphcnsthiJdrcn qêreb!nçLlirtl!.hnhrHolaefr1971 l) TonandL\e dde of L\e sn dom itrU&a ii may be assmed rhd rho .loû, ns pr*nled t L\e prioryaîcr thc lire 01Ù, vl]ich d6toyêd rlÉ .l'urchand mon ofrhe.ûvnruil Ùuildings, as w[ ænuch ofthe re$ ofihe cis (Hoù4 le7l, 3).

strnivins sæ.iûeis oi silk clolh in l.nÉs{êm no;dre fiisi haÏ ôf rnc 13rh c.nt4 indi.are rhâr rh bb6y on hbby biiditrg *âs populârthmwhouL nâny gtnemlions Epnples sithtrnsùsh âsciatiois iûdudc â ch.sÛle rdd,lôadc rrom mo( d,e buial rbes of H!Ùcrl$/âltei ArùbÈhoD of clttcrbùry, sho dicd inu05. B.lh nâierials ùc a monæhone yeû&Énered sirh ros ofmedâlions enclo\its Dâlnorbids. rd *ere f(trricny enlivcrcd virh â brccàdin! ùcâd ol silt Ib.t has since knishenrMdtèsius 19324. 3l 2). As wiUr thc cloih Êomr,ndon dessiùed ,lwe , h1mi. Sp.in w prob{bly rhc $un oI rh* fm tertils.lhese silkenûbri.s aDârt 12ù md l3llNntû.y cloths ùlânÉs weâÉ are $arcc Êon tediel trnslâd,bùt d,is Ë prcbrbLy an ac.idenr oI sriql nihcrùan a ù!e reildion or rg lrriod. Evidm.! lromthe Grrlrneit shos ûd ùe hbby on kbby1mpæ coûslruûo. onrinùèd ro b. potûlr inEuope ù1o the lllh enbry. 'nre iinrcnce orsilks rrom lmn and lbe F.r I:i. ho{*i 'i

dtrs,Àd the otrtDut .a lrnls wtrns virh aÂnD'rd boudin*dptc.dsjn or q(in, md bythecid d r. [rlr cenrùrydre Dtuducrioi triherabby otr r.bby iampas 4r,er s ro ha@ .e.sd

'lh!r rr. pi(les oi rh!$ ctorhs Nov.n in

lmpâs \nh â ubb! @d.' r u, I lâbby sroundfrom rn,,lo, a[ ot $ùich .onc ftom tan, ùd].eùry dcposiis (N 05 337-33e) ïry de !rûh{rr thÉÊ ùain ends to ôtr. bi inc end aMhr ! i i r \ f ( . r ,mdnq , l \ t o r rb , E .nd \pef!n rhesôdm ryrqriFhIê\iryt? nrioi\ excepr o..rsiomlly nl'.n oinakes hâvpocùr.d b q(e.ing iic wrD â.d thc ù.1\ ûepair.d 0rB 82). ̂ lx'".r nrir Ned ror rpou.h haspâr, d ,nan ends, 'hi.h q!ùtd aprer (o hav.ued mor. .ô'tr(tr' 10 jL'dge by rhe numb$ orexmphs n'l de pr.s.'!t d loday (e* lierzell9li1, ios.12-70). btri $h smdc mâv bc ', \te,iing.llr rug. or o,rù emploled o; rhe r.ndon(Il'rlrs \*s [Diited. only on. DrFrn qtft b.irsused ro conrrd! wilh a darkercolourcd Fotrid o;€rh of tlF rta cc pic..r lra.es oi.olô!rin! arcDncred on ùe cbrh ù*d ro' â Jjûdr; rhe pd

or pùpre lround. ̂ r.r.ùi nl'd! or L\ê rea,]}riotrs nlerniry silk \Énin! j,r t.uan. ryh rùeiÊ dra!î !p i,, 13r-6 and 1331 h6 id.itiJi.drexdles oi rhe rJJÈ trscd rof ù Frch as ?,,,dâdr 3" 2 ri tk d'. (Kns & xiq $$.!. 69) Îeorher Mo clolhs {r. Dmbal,l! rlso Ei.ri,Às ol.,,kh,r,Ior ùe rsnn in.ludcd À n.!c or dillèrenrEighriârdLidesotc1od, T}r; hb.tsre eencnllJ' relètrrd ro as tar,mr o' tmô.â'

\Fiidy compir.d in r3Rc of ks)êi6 in \ir$nirÈrd Abbly. for exmpl.. iù(.l es rhrædarnradcs ôrlhjre râm.a panenEd lnh aninhlsr-"[DiiaùnoruI]oN.f {r,,n ..dbùr,rsdDh &t ),f.a jh  d ha,t i h61 @ * $n. 2 1)

I hc Ftcnr o, rhe l,ndon.loths dè l.s casyro ddermiie rhan thcn icchtricât dhu.brisii.s-l m d re {rips hm been.ut acrors rlx widrh ordre.loth il. rln il,nd. whi.h *as.ut L'sihwi*, has been nir.hed insid. or I Tlie ndrowsipic.c shô!\ Fn o1a ilùfaretis {ithin â .in darbmê surtoud.d br- srùll lenves âid flo$rn(lic 32). fte lolded pie.ê rlso âpJIa^ 10 have ?sûu:c.j. parcD oI lo1i4e 0;i! s:) ^ tnr.@ruf ÛrêrTêmmth.. ôrt ùk spre+nrd Fissl

Figa4 1aJ Poull' dud. iiom ' sirk hnDr sNei

ddl,is5l[Mhdt ndLr (D lJ.omùudôndd,!

i"aviiri a r\yorcighlFLDlcd sb( edsd Nùh asiid oi inalL sqrr.s \rilr,iD lr,e heyâsons r.sF,1yr oilrowê iiFrùi.eii \rh b.Nh ù, bnd,i qn âtrrr j,, n\sse i,r atLe' nâie h.xrgois vcni.

Der,loler{ktir devi.e\, ok oI Lozen$s trM nre ùlher or \brd

morif cndos.d rih:û the $a' È i r.ôDlrr n .](d.dylnNDo rrts 'adlring in dtree diÉdions

'lure smâu dant Drnèris ol rhc d!. lliii nrjr^,..an dn lj,! dlerns \liù LalPs I'i .nirnatsn4' ..ross rh. crotr' {h.ri 0!e !.hla' hbrfared \ere irJrr.mêd Ly chincs Do.l.t\iiiàrdlr rlriÈî. 136) lr'e t.dared cni4rlpt ofthc$ p,nenedLbri'srr.D.. bd qr'\sîtr iri l,Dp\ binling riù â ûbby 1lr.tu on I iabbyrroodrndmrd.idoa.lù!,r,re j<inrbroid.nd$dh ùe afms oi Rran.he ot Nau ' . (131!r3t3)(cha,ùanf I|r. rs!!ii0 fâ1ke 1913 ti. n! 381;Kùs & Kns 1938. (j9.76, iii r) iNdre\ jndi.

hlrr l3riri ûl r3e0 orifr\ret 1e76 i 13.) iptrilJd ditrt ieitl! .oincides r ilh di. .lar. or 'l,e1!o r r(lm lircft ntLhoqh by dF rrri0s mnn!rftces rlnrd aù .xd! hav lturn ,r ,id.iarhioned

11'e saDc lâi.]Jrh{ûiû rlçosit i'r t.M!, iyi.krùl f, idri!À or ji!e tunD{irl!?tr sjlk .lorlÈ{iù D.nerns boud i. hrrby o , i {rrt(i $iLlF{D(. ore n â irip .û norr I stLlrds.

l$si ôtr. rirgneû hrs rrtts orsrirdring ni)ù,!rrir il rD! l,rt beù usod b.iÔF il \.s dis.ùded oio 3111.1rr. Fr.mrr I ll)r]\ ùi gener

xDD'oxiriitr rj l5 p;ed nrin ends io Ls siill!bindii'sr!l!!!.rmmd rsd âgof .r irllr$iLlT1,e lam is Zt\iied lof dF nùi'r rnrp whilc rlDror drc bindi4 tra'? n i rli\Led otâsiomuyminak.s .ri be obsÈ^ed in drc .ùii,,a ,i LrnÉi,L s,is vi(lr one. Lirc, of fôlr eids somclines occu. jng i xr.xd ôrj$r r& (fi! 33ts) bLrdeft1r û.sê ùro^ \lorld not hxv. dù tdr'oi 'ln toul| 4Demnce ol rh..lôrhs llrèse

I oths do.ment.d in od'er .olllclions nrôv tra

ril, ù[iiù:ûilllshndrdsin dr.silk Môjrs Dù^try'NienidlyÙ'rrplicdtlth

lhc dodx ar. itrr.,,tri,I{ n! iri|â]l! prrnùhfr! as noF of rhè È[eDs aDD.xi s b li Nl

rrf.r r.ù,nrl,i betore OriqnJdF nnillste oln'e nû$g tr4Dr.Dh. h.wt v r orly onr oI lh-.Dr[crr:ùn brtu[vr..oi{.ucrd t]iis oài.,f .{hi.lr h }q1D j,L rello! or trnft om hdedpitrkish l]Ûrrt! lromd,Jro\t rs *iLrr I t..r!11 ûi \ârklri or Dsèriio Ànbi.rè@ms pa, dv uftd..r u, ciirrr \ e c\o 310.Fig$).1hch.isrirôiîherèDedGtnrDmaM ill.{i.rth.30on, nLn mâkes iixn eftfeûety.r

o,ore remdkâbrc is dF snal rrta of t]r. Éfr.riiD'.rrrionturll raryeelmseorûrÊsrôûid.TnècloL\ {:s d!ù\ Élabdy ch.q, aùl rl,i\ iqnes:ior srired lrom rhe par.ni À rei.Jo.red b! th.lype or dvc$lif trs..I ff rln. n,ri,, rn p hon. otrhe oLl,er yrN hr\r teed dye 1.*.d) !h .li ha\b( | id, dir ql r\ a I dren DL@1e lrrirei sorrcesiùnlè ùd thn wukl h bLo, orch:l. theDn,k 4ven ro a s.nùs ôfi.rreûs inddins,tddl"rda," r. a R r( rr,u yhi|h â'r md\€ iorlr shôrps ofrhÈ Ilediremncan tltR.ri(rrs!!.rjl)!rr I .ckqrd loptrlâr irt in sitk ôeiry inlllLl! riom th. .ârly l,rrh ..dury rrtrû,gh Lhe erreliriyorafror.ùi.eriÈr.hmt!hoxpFr. llr.i,ri..rû,d r( orme'dâtly :n r tu@tln!b ùe Llunr lk)k 1lrlirj,2r:l :l) L,iiillly onhilri,ûD.{r r viyid puple ri( bur exposu c b tiahi! rRd irs .orôû i, rad, lery r4idly aM ir w\,lr,e, .rd I oli.ù .or'bined lith ôdrû d\\. n,lrl.d.r anri jlo tor r]ddc (rôôrer 19ô6. t: t3).Ilpr,À.rro$du noorh.' dlei,,rru?\del<"led

sùds ofp+Lllo Æùic chmd.i s Y.n auÈurâ r D io r i ro i rL i rnhb ' i $du i ' r s rhe l . l r h rcnr!4 li h \fi.r .iDr Iq r . r tK | ' ' ! r d rù r \ . \ LL , \ r o ' 4 i ! n 0 i LÉnofth.Ddtûri!{ or ln,nic rcftiles dre le1Lersarrrtrûsûiinbmds orxsprioaan\{delog.t. or,nLrtsnrh âs â ù.e ùlik ÈLtn.rc orlrtd\ ohmg. iDsbâd ôr rorDn,! ro11s (sc.Fr$ 60 dd i9) \o rr.tiân èxmotcs aDDùr r,l,f::socixtrd wirrL rrnlm bindius nht.ri hæ arâbby lro'nd rqlr or .rtr u drr d er id rhm'lr o dle oJ dr. lldi ..ùtry. rhhoL !h |r. (ïidrno for darn,r j! rj,Dndi cee. for p!tr,nDtÈ.\id$rù 19r1r 7. r91 ir)ù r!ùrlD orJùr. Drany rlorh \!iù tcft.r..t1..olls h,m vcry liv.ly odirls s[i.h ftr.altrI dho'à ol.nriulr,r idntrn..s ahi,c\e.ltcian âtr,r sû{cn N trtr1âr {?n Dropernon. extunple. r'hi.h --s r,â.lf iDh r fLNùbL tof

t \Jrieûkifth. cdrFr ton.dcd lilJtl). lrÀ a

pântberlirh. monke! .h.ined L i6bæk leqrnstom rhe edge olâ vtull *hib bnds ny rMds il,

which is pushed by a 'noikey or dsârf iû â hatrhile mdhs tr'orkq ileaks {ie ear of lhe elèphant ùhich G holding a teather in i6 mouth(Mmosl(y 19J1, I, m 12, ils 16, rr Santagelors6a, 30, fis 13). Dcspirc Lhc clâbomb paftrn orthh .lorh,ls symetriol Lyout or â 0oi'n repeatharnes r*mbles rhal of ùê lnndon clôrh, alihoush Lhc chasubl. hbric has M dificr.nt rom

ftbric, nr in lalsuûd Mu*um (@ !ùe Balli.coast), Gerllny, has tu {musofpseudoÆrbi.letreing, one inbd{ined win a nonley holdiogldoÂmd'eotj'erjdûsiûcdgilhaji.mbcst$ith a bnd perched on i6 runp Oalke 1913,II, fig433i Ro@r 1950, 2927). This Éttem has ifiisht reFat nrhe. tiù a point reFat mddemnùes dr. enornous .âpa.i9 irr vrieryjdprêyàiledind'elhljîsjlkçeditrgjndùdJy

B

I

(4) No 309, aidd' olbed t@

't

i l û i f f r l k l l t hândp ] r l y l 5 rh . r f u r i es l hnncDrrrrasc..r bj- a r!o! nùd! or sitk dcsip irIbl' tr(hn oe.iod. oæ hcdr.n df!i(r.r iorqïù, e. sieed x turù3d ii ù:l îo runY Is, l \., kdrf ôr aoùr qcN 6 i,, cetua \iLh Ileâ$ 60 mN deigûs r rer b. nlo v.r s (ivôùis

].lre DLherr. oD cloilF tr.iltN| ù, Ll,c L.ffre e]mprcs jùd d's.ribPd ir thèi. m unt ofprr.rni,,({xl. ronriDlry r}q halr 1aryd rêp!trE O{è lDns. .rm{ sbir slio}\ d, t !i Ittr{edl,i trù trcd sid.s?] s pù.rFd ùdcr I hd\nh kmdrd ri(-nirg!.rrr r o$irh tr{trdplDie (No sn fis rrri). simila.f.aiki s ân ryrj.,Jor'rDys[imsiù]pxrcnspfôdu.ed i ll.lyinrh.$cond hx[ôrrh 1]rh(iùo {!t matr!oIthese clodF r?F vovûi ir . lirnh Lrmoæ bindii{}irl,rvrÈùrd2.1r$il1sûuDd (.s rrssr:

,cnorhef dôdr rof itrnrtd. . rirnsLb oficur.dioçs a \rir.s \in,of!r4s rnd ù..dcerôr

),

B

mcmde.ng tilobc lems on a bdcd .ed or purple sromd (No 3,!2, Frs $) rllc dispoùrion orth r.ys eiâùles U'e pàiierû lo bc .dryrdl wiil'th.t ôn . châsuble Iron rhe Mùidkhhe,Gddsk, md on srlû lr@enb in rhe Vidoria

rioiâhnus!ù Nlrdb,Àrg, a.d Dtuiches Terdlmusum. rùefeld OlmnNky 1931. l. no 4ô,firqs ri3,61{ilckens $$ 22, no 2e ria7i r.rrr193,I.323 5,m1()l) ftispaturn.onskborÀliotrwi0ri pecocklàil.hi.hjdsabird j'rir\cLeiaprn of \iç, or hutr s lre, G aturhed to theùon by a .ard md six li.t châjn md on one wins

illg b..lnftds a1lhe Iion hwerins âbove (l.-rs 39)A vaiÂdon ol rhis parrern, âlso rcm on â bârFFound oJ tilob. lcmi has x simila. lion clasÈ

11€90silkÙ1o|]r,No!3Êoma

lon*necùed ùid with . smalle.bnd dos dhmd(Èrm 1927, 69, no 55; Weibel 19s2, r35. no 1931let?êl 193,1, 3?6-7, no 101). llese cioths lu,uimtly pturned ùlh slded membnie ûlèthreàd r€ :ûibdêd o Jn tlûid qorkshop prcbàbly bud in Iûo dd @mLine ùomd rhesdond ud thnd quadds oJ ôe 14rh cdury.'Ine nylidic sinntriqJ ofthe I4 on Diece sw.sesl. it us ale produced ùêrq or ât dy r* ûepattem m be hced to rhe hmd ofa desls.q olthê smê ehoôL thê âbsnce or nêbl dyead inrhe l,ndon clodr indictes dEr il hs not one ôtrhemrc dp€nsiFEdeties of àar?s,f'a (ltiry&Kng 1933, 6S.70) hlt it âoDe* ûat u16 âdesknws a spcciâl commision, slmilarxllerN1Èê adâpbd to ditrcrat gFdes ol cloih dnerth4 beins ex.lusiw k) one t!ê.

A bunh exmDle - moLher offdl preseG oiry thê enhr Ddion of ib patten (No343, Frg 90). Aptæt motif is ûdkcd by h,b dnerynn idenricâlspiky ùriines sutgesinsilÉit@

An inBlory of 6bmb in weslninslêrAbbey, which ws blen in ]3Pn od ùerê6revery close in date lo wI{ ùe tûbrie {erc ihroM

outasrubbishintleE stwaterÈâtr,3hô*dErcloths silh 6n.ifL Fturns E e not m unusualsisht in the nêhFlis in the lâ* quær or ihe14$ cùtory. Clolhs olsold p*1efled wiih lionschâined b bolshs (&ai,a rèu /i .l mrs ae@ errdit), soldn cûnês shding onbtu.ùesvhich ihe birds hold in ifieirbeaks vili,oùêr æinâls srzing mderts {bar1t6a!ri,s.lù tbdjo danths nn6 i, tusttit rtbanbû datiit tA'iis sub dnwibw ise iha),p?i'soi deIornêd bnds in qGdr:ns16 inbrspeRd Nin(jlrMs æd golden fish (trd,ii lrjbôlô6 Ànisinîa qunn sllis @i. .! tiribb ûfti. ittér.dÀ), nyiu Ialcons vith lifilê liôns iillinc in bèr'eûthû lkk ti6* drnnb8 d tonis kûibcvd?rtôa irbrttul, md solden sl q lied bylheir lecks to reês, 6landins in linb bôah (îig'Bdarntk calnits it ttuiel;: an a/h68 dl

[ad'aLatr!]li{uturdcù5i'i (,\) tûi, (!) -lcNIn!'{o.cDùb*nbr!cd(co'rs"cbâdl,

/4dra). mju{ a Lw ô.dms li$d jtr p itrrù

Î,e dû.rcrer ol rhe selredge shoss that it {oo

wviigenÛsItÈâppni,rlel}'10rmvjdeand *i6 io 2.1 l*jll sirr , 7:iiâsoml (No 3!,1,Fig 91).lh. silk ends âre r{ned .nd .onsisl ol.pâle colôurcd yrn perhaps oriqinrly Fllôv orwhlt . ,rd d'. dgc G .cinfo.cd {ith tu plicdcords oI â .elluloci. nbrenmber ol edge .o s iç si$ifi.â nofei{iac.cguldiors sFcilicd rhc usc ofu siryle linen.ortiin lmpaÈmven silks in l3c,liin l3sz $is r*scha.rd roândimumort*ôliÉtrcôdsodil'hconrinucd to bt a requnemenl inb ùe *.ordhalf ot thê lsdr .cnbir (À{omb 133s, 3e0).This does ûo! 'ncâi ùâi ih. sbense considcrcnhere Ms d i{m . norennne .loûr wi i"13s2 or sonerime larer bur ir G â DosiÙiliry. Orhersclvcdgls reordcd on lampasllmn silk clothsdâri['r L the ]41\ ùd etrly lsth mntuics trsuâIyhne èilhèr t@ or 0Îec liùeù cofds rollol"d lrysilk cndsolâ differentcoloûto the tuin Neb (e s.]]eEa re4 nôs 32, 93, 10o lj Momas 1939. 40)ùul a lcw âlkilk $lrds6 ako oau' (ljdcl1934, no 90). It is rot Do$ible to re.onsud iheprsise rhmcrer ot rhè reavè froù 0'e selv.dJre.dùoush ir.s b. dcdued that the &toud *âvètr2s wrÈtaced 2 1 Nill as the ninding ol ùe slEdle and ol nre lYùtrM vcâvc ôD lblian la'npas

Selecled catâlogue I

r'5e Dinqsio6: nhe .'@sû, rar{ o h snm,v 135nrur (ii) b û5mm, \ 4hmi 1iL) hu5nm. N rh4 (i) ù snid,, { snù,. sù

boui' lhàbb]'olr1,rùd'ai4od

l:4ÉlMjoG'omDairofiÉitro'dstocad'

Mâitrwrq silk stois /. eis Fned 2iJFirs

Plncm qtft silk no \isibre $isi. much iinû

i

q{snrd.urrù ùÈr!dj

4 b a Din rohd i,, 6! f.r sùû.d dù| ! , t . ! l r u i n i j [ { l M o D ] l l s '

l : c ra r rmi

(,roui \ri: st]( ûdd pùk. tu lcùh nlisrr!i.lqi:sksr{hfl}'|LnùH'l]fuj!.o0d

s'!e rà.F,Èr'r' rlb eduù;tuui Pirdo

!!:4d(û!luczFisdri!qi5

hrqo fttr nrk, ÙLnk{ dLd, g.oùd v.n no

Ùjidnq!.q]:sjlk.nmo(7ù]j.Fj]ad

Pr(nÈd(: 1ù cq'lirtrous,:ilk. m lis bre

1ttit6 aùa ctrthixE

iiJ htduùtd silk .olisitc

sM(qe,DLâûribic(?rùen)r!, ./-/$L!.EL

Satin

SdiÈ&\o silks l'rn qrkâ. ù Lnlû, {lQôsirsoI tlt lare rllh rtrtûir 'ûc cloth us. hoùderintoduc.d ùLo Eilltrid no lakr rnd the !?{quaner ol lhe l3rlr e'lury 'rh. frdi.n datcdexdqie kiô{tr 6.r ihÈ routy n . bhe $tinwhi.h \r.s usd lof I sd ol embn) ertrl {s!men6nradcl,'rl,oi 12i0ând1291ol{hichonltÀ cut doM rhi!,tle kioxi as rhe Clme.hastrblc, is prsend (Ch i I1033.m{,1Kne

lly thè l.tÊ ]ldi orq,- grme.ls i,rdudiitdoùb1e6, rui.s. hrN\ i\ a nôDcs.utfromllir v.n rashionxbL. x &s xlso us.d ror irnishinss. lnchdins . Nhons ri d l,edhusi!!\ âsNellNtor!idl(5iidsÀncG,\.cordiur0{ti!t n rc.ords the olou6 hvotrr.d in [ngland 6tl,h pùiod {tre Nhile. blâù. l,l'î. flL ,ralt mdseH, Il kklir,or. thc clolh r{s IrÈqleiÙ cnlirened wirh ei,broidcry exedred i s,lll orsi1ve.s1t thÉi(j. or F*,Iû.d {ith sinu motilsin aold loJ làintd dèrùrâ.ion $?s $nebres.prlied trs tr.h.aper nlLen'arir Tlr k m 'loublc

:mpleinl39r .lêisht.llsordonbleredsd;,wd$pplied 6r nre ûJi.À . or. doublcft md rh!dc.v.s or a Éliok 0r'.vlie !393, 160) rilo'eùnerlrcesindi. ùâr ùis wa\ !,i i !i'l(i.loth bùta rl,i.kef nùl hfâvi.r om xovcn b! td .ahêrthm wftn (lùoler le66 2r?iKing & l<ing rq33,

Iui,li û d.s.riptilt dehils of rhe silk râbfic cmnow be dd.d by retsrtnce ro ore ûùr ' eiùtcsoI urt'{eduy qtitr ! {or.ed û om lrndor .cilàrc tùmûd rlins (1il3 92), {oven I om s"aq]rûrwiù a $rois z brisr md \ttu lro l(rjq aryap!rtciaùle r*i$ rry xrc rz.etued. lhe ratiôor wrp to Nel ùreads Étrsi,s ram I 5 I (o r2:r

ThG densiE h lô\ar rlm is .tr$oh4 io{âiliy\

rrkur. or voie oi n\ê qrins !:s {irh.edrined}?d rrnûa xDal.st,DoÈpùkvrrj r ùnû:no! rrLoqsl}{hire flEds.6'rL tridr rlrnhconsnb ùf â !rie\ or Bned ends (iDr.rjirydtriL\ atr o..âsionrLsjnsl! q orgmûDsotôrorJi! ois) similrroth.(oithcnrairleb (U16All]1e pink rarI v!\ dltd indF rhrerd nirh Dxt.def trnih drè yr. fo' ill. sehtdec $old harb..' lcrarflt sepraÈly in coùror rilh pa.reûredcroùsof rheÈrjod. nrÀcotorcd {rii ;sa so dNùn.tive tur ns usc or pined ends I rparrenor ..ira(1erisli ot hervier conrtsmd {e4e

ùd or irs srd,is bord.. (Nô 3{ô. Fig 93) thisbordo ms fol{led invÀdr io lorm a h.m aM \ns.def.rore.h de.6onr!i1$:llRrr:ç!\ed*rrd.ûiDlc[es rne driny us or ilk, ût jc nrjsand moth.r û tnr,ir{ olsrin (NIo 315 Fia1533)

)crecren cat;togur À

315 Dinmsi.N (ùh rrnù.{L6fu;0) h r$no.

sdns bordf I ron (hcomoÈle)

3r7 Dhnljooi o h dln]i g *oru (ii)

. ' ' i , $ . t i i . ] ! .

34 Dife6 ùF (ù b r5n n,\ L!nù4 ij L5hhl srhù !ùd pGfs Qr! a' br ûe ftE€5

\r'raE: *d qr . ilq(henon or 3. sdiûamr{l[p: sjù. tuk (ikdds), *rcry zsnl 4

eni sil[ pùk (oaid.r). do isibh r{jtr 30

Sâtin dama'skDma\ks bolid in vii' \tr. â lât' d@lÔp'nenr

s n h ù r \ q P ! i r r ! Ê

olanld.Onamrins nrl! frfrd ir r bcq r.t!

L ! . 1 , 0 ! . d r Ù l t { nF$DL Sodn n lthl blJr i i i * ' i "n . rnLma rÈ ' tbæni ùdÊ r 'm 'r.u.Dce or ihe r.sddene Ôr !!'Er n ri'

$?ie or Monsir ù] L t t l . b | ù t r l b ! | t | I e | ] ] d 4 | n F 4 | r d | ]r l d h s D r o d L ù i n r l l . \ ? id rûn 'l im*l\ bnd'. {rP p t I roni rie

s..ard hau ordre r{ù .èntrq oDr?rdsn a okr

ù D o $ i b ? , , l n m s x i . ld L a L À ù , ( ' s à ? r m d u ' | d r t | r n Ô r Û "

l b r l L ! c n h 4 d . 3 r . Ù m c n u r s m L Ê L i r ) nd.rc \0k * tlr ù! tr tr|

OirL,\ rrl.:22)À ù,tu" .hF d À -tj" d nÀr . frF!

lJoû sÆn Lik ld'dÙnu l t r c m J ? . | o m d e d b J \ \ ' t ù b ! 4 | i l qU{c nù nr HHe 'h' Âh$r "r

'' d.rnti , m d - k b m . ù _ r m n J i(tL( -r4fl L i. qdêi in. ! ù ù $ ; t J \ t h r k i i c b m r \ 4 r d ' $ r r ' K !

r i L . i n ù ' | t r i u a l ' a ' i l l È ' r ' { F t r n ' i r ' l!.n ht.sdr ]ri \nli i çhlnt\I rid ttrê

hLliûon ot lf ftd Ùm r I h !r ù rirtu

u.[tu ur- \ ! bÈsr fins{ È 1 , ' l l t ù s h . t ' ! s t P P Û ! \ b r t u \ L É

r l d t r c $ ! u l d i L I r r i o L ! ô i t r n k r q Ù À r ' n

noLÀndl J4.looRFd in \ilkrhm\Ts &s;LN tl'r ,LLfru.Lor, uf"*!sJ(h s ùe rMm m h# lmn np{r 4 n

r^!à. nuir $-s rb\ 'ruriu ùÈ r4h cnrurv(lroo$r 1950 2917 18) Iouo$i'{ mprÔlemeds

û G r l d r r l ' h r u ^ ' I i l l s t r h I i u ! ' l l r r u u l

ijr? tr[r !r n (Pf n I n4 qq',. tp. | | z ûr

s( or çFlE i $4 )r i rt inq! tr ' {n

! t r J ! \ 4 1 ' l ! L F l r t l lf h r . L L L ô ù l o n n t t h È . i r f m a \ h " G ' r r ) r ,

m d s l i ! r ' l r i ! ! l ' 4 s Ê 1 f r c f u u m ê m l l l

str LFbcJllr ilt r i c !o ld Llir h ri a h' rn

"; rirn . ù,r. bd

I p l - l r ' h r r d - b l r Ô ' : l

s h o L l d b t r i " h L P r B m ' r f l ' h ' r i t u r n Ù t r

o t ù . i n d ù i J u l

ounuÛr\ xd ndr 'r; J ru r l r a . . ' f t . 1 ' r ' ! { r ' n rÙ ' r 'À

;.i .,e,t h --'; f t . . h . s r

"1 r ' r i , me l i n ' r " ' d t r r , ù iû l

\ h i l h ! { ' m r ù P r L Ù . i

tLùdbl?r ii ùr ihtrtorr J .i 'rhr ro L\.

kmbrÀ |1'3 /rs !r.$r iort | :i{rn!ldf | ] l ! F Èqu\: l î j nf ! . b[ '14 n qf làÎ

lbia, utA. ndldmqFi cn+ rNru ms rù'

,I.u,.Éks m n lE d'!' l n,li i sù{ùq I b

û E ] q t r t 4 ù | h J L l ! { I l r û s r p s 0 d sr,i,r,'\h crlhr ! , ' l \ fi_vn LÊr ' *mpFs

I1r| reràùkl\ trtros {il l,ôr hP! dr Æ'itrP

6 ! l , l L ! { o € n n i ! q u n U \ [ [ n A d . ! i | r!om'l hbl(\ n!li n o "

a " q ' 1 1 " t . o . - t u ' " h ) ' * '

a

ItIIt

./

I {ùtrf(rio! oi Fnen. (c) d.,, i d hd ot\(4e. selo s r (D)

dadask bsme so common thrculhutr tjuropcn'c si oqtn in sufu\ ôT

i dndamr . r \b fu r i . nbP t r .ed rq ! f -.h.ly fi_om \ril1et sôNes Suli.e it b tu hcrethr :t rhc end ol rhê l4rh cntn rhe cloth wsu$'âllr ôn!_ wrn in roFl.irles Xichdd Il, ror.umDle hâd a doùbler ol blâ.k dmask ùd alnrs rohe ,i sr&i d:ft\k 'ndJe r'r' hÀ J Irifr.c dcuut Ln 139! (Biillù 111r. r4!r10). $hil. hÈ mcle. îDmâq Dukc ofClorceste4oned as{,{n md coat (cloke) orbbck dmæk arrli. iim ol his dis@e in 1397 {)illdû & st JohnHùÈ l3s?, 30a). Ihes. rc.ords nd on! iidicabùe hish sbius placed on damaskjn ùe 13903, bùiâlso hinL it a maue lor dark *,nbrc colors Bv.onMi, so rurtrler had sarin dt.sk becme bv1lÈ 1460s that Ëdwdd Iv loôad i1s {ear by dy

latiL\ û"ti ctdhi"E

es4uire or Âen11emm od.r dr dcsce oJ ki8hr(ùù cenih cxccpriont Gbtuts or ùe Real'r, 3Ed.lv c.t). ân er@ot $ar va\ d',âny isnorcdin L\e fr.e ol potrfil mafkct rorces.

Select€d catalog!€ Xl

I

wI

w

Mixed cloths

\or all nrdi4d rrtilù $r' oitde elcty ftô'notu ryÈ.o nbre \àfiôur.ombinatioDs ofrh. ji!eprncipal firrr.i $!o . silk. tlÀ, he,no .nd .orLon drbr.d. ridr r s.ôriiir(tdoùsbb.oir.J.d r) 1r'e consmier u'ùndûarrlr!ùr a!.\!hrebee.pcs.krr r'hesoitro.diriôicDÀ li,{ in r,ndotr ùtrt indccd rtr! ù( ti,rùed Lohrltsilk!.1û!utriorhers*ith iDL'nihbrcNùll

HaE silkreli€1s!el!û È pmdRrl l,! rrring dr crh wla dc.I senes or rods so ùd x Loôfid rt(,. qnirh a$or. N, r,e dn'dL' r .r ihe .lolh n . ùtr rlabove rhe lonndrtion.t rl{ Fouid rl.m (Ti(95). Ih rFâûùrt a..orned b dr rjr( lnb rhe.roth ib ruxû ri rcxrre x Dâv bê len mctrt irrhe irnn ol loops o. F rly .ù l.n /ô cui ro atr&r I'elshl (sohd cùr pilÈ), o..ur rô dirrlrs{heLshb (pir. dL) lBùnhâm 1elj0. 103)vo ed ldvdi {here onLv or I ôr ilr lite s tiJredoltr mdi \Fre ?lso madê rùt rLbn s virti

lariotrsùù,r,irdionsotpilêsurhâstrDcutvùidtrlDir. and vùidrd .Èdi I lt. ar lirs ont), pltrii. sold( ù !i e !tl*r aFr610 han b..tr ùr{rr?c{ùedin lat rrh ( , ûùry Eùrop.rj !i[i leavii{ cùjrÈs, .hielty i. urLv and soai,L Tùe eanie* .eter.rù t, iN usc i" Frshnd rzs i'r r2i3 rhen\ r i n ? h . I r u \ r i t u. . \ d ô P r n ! r v r ù ! l d l / i t " t { f t l n Jcodof i0Ô\. (Lysons1311 30s).Il!th.nji.rdt(.d

(ur rnd ffii.ious ch0thman j5 Hulei xshnTs a .owfler n*de 6oD rNel (;iùsDoi1920.3Lir$. ft À Dôsiblt llLerelo'e.rhartrrfirn!.1r1 w.\Ned intrrsliidlo.turii.hiq\i,rt,eldiii ror cLodrii ritrihj\prùpos rhê ctorh djdr,{ .equù. iô be shrpcd, so drar ùre oI rhe erÉn*î ûùirirr tr?s r%{êd soon aJicBztrlihosêver rshrciri mâitl frur velver b.s:i ro bÈ

Diled in 1195 !aq\ûrnls in \ ràrt\ a:rir,l',1indudes tr .hNublc of bt!. R.lvq (spdroN siinpsotr133i.52l ir.). \'hi.l, ùu{ hm b..n mr d

nyrheed) 14di.lntrLry vctvcr sa\ r,longe' â1rc connnûliry rlrhotrgh ir rêdr.ined do.isiv.Modled lddi rnl { rvt rs ù{rer ned {iL\ ûirlsaùl{.h--kssome ôr{hi.hinclud..l trrlil rltr;d.LèaLn ro arù Î .( &ù1, dd diG ddtlopm.nt

a..or s Olonnâs 1936 65: Ilomas 19119.2s7 3)Dapile th. outpui ot rrer\irylr, .onplex D.rrro{r vel[6 llij !tl!a6 cùln d I steablenLrkct in rlrrnrdùy bndoi ùIù! of ih.nrH r probibt! half r lk I h1À. \.li.h ù!âN rh{dlL} r,al r Neii ol liiFi or hdrp côr.,{t1l bêN{hrh.silkpil, u,d \rere ro.stqrq{l! chupc'b n*nùr.nrè md buy. hm Nï{les ot so|nlcut rù wrrr ' <-orfed f.om ih. 1rr. r{'ljrri!!a deoosit ai Rc?2 *f ltlro thisryp. rr.hhArbb ù 4au'd {irh ù' e! Dair .rd\ h enrh oileend md tlnt !j(.ksroeâdrIod Ttie in!z':DhâtrisÉd sillt th| s lk or rll. rjle \"d is wirhoûs $ {(l (}F linù *di is z rvir.d rlr uei(tstri!.loscr $aùl ;, {rre tr"rp dDi ii rhc N.jl.one rroih. ror èMmpLc. hrs rj rÉj! erds oer ctrr

f

!ia96saipdha[{i]keùeÇNo3''hnÂht

r 2,! Dicks É. m aNo 3,19, Pl l6E), wliilc mother hÀ d6 nuin erù rd.[ and only 19 picksB m No 351, F ig e6). Alùrher.hmcrerÈri. isdi. hcisht ol dre Dile vhi.h is &r'n ôn Lhc pie&rhat k ihe be$ D;$d.d (No 3a9. ver@s ukdas the srôu.d hb.ic Jor lrnglish embroideri.s i.thc 1.uh .entuo haÉ 3 i'on.r ùlc t\m this.Ilôùsehold rcl)unis, horlfti indicab dEt velvelrttrihhiûs and !.rmds riih a lors pil. çcrcmon( L\ose Duchaed lof thc rryrl.0ur6 oIf ,a; ùl Rullndr in the late l38trs md Ilens(Nlomrs 1986. 70) rd rhey wn: [obablv bshionable in E4laid âi this period .s wÙ

'ni. rou. pi(es ol \€ivd bom ùe llidor .*cMlioN aÈÉr ro have bc.i otrcub vhi.h n€r.drn ùsd ù) nrk. Douches nnd ùinni,s, Âxl ilRs only {hen drey xtr mrn llÈrlbarc rhdthn.. wrc diswded. f$ô r.dz4lâr l)Èces\tre n'ad. into small b4s finished !iù ùblduolrn edles (Nos 31e and 3s0) aîd it È thisdsing whirh l,âs b..n rcsFnsible for prekn"ii! rh. bas sin e the cûnose ôbr" v.Ii hasmrnLlr dhùreriled leaving thc rclret in r very\eÂLrNd dât llrc othd Diecês $ûe cul ù1onr.oN lri|s (\:0s 35r I 352) l)Y. bsbdio!.d ihar llre silk lrD uscd Jor the m,n wrpoi or cloth qs dyed

"jth a lichen pn@le. For!

Tutilê a".t ctdhiaq

abLy orchn Cro 3s1). I1 is ml kdùsr lncthcr thèDile $?s dvd riih a simila dyeluf of {lr.iher â;rcr.lilhtns dlt rns ùscd lnehrrerj\Nhapsthe norê prcbâble \iu r.c.,t ..*d.h i odves on nqù El bniles is slrowiirl L\âi chenrerdycs mre olen used ror the drea,ls in a.loÛ L\al

"Fre .on.laled llv,ùbA l93lJ 105).

linen and wool union clorhs

Mixed cloths or wo1 and ver.hblc iibrc âre lesswI tno{n rrm mcdiùâl D.slùd âhhoqhvdiotrs 'âm.d doihs hm heen i,!a' 'bd as betonÈi i! b drjs clAs. Chicl amons these âre nrckin;i. *hi.h m.c suDDosedlv made wilh I lj,! tor .oton wâm md â wefi nnn rmD .ithc. soodqlaliû mol or !ôôl .hppis ldom as llocksaP{rtk 11151 l. :31 2) some ol (he\e labri.sEre sùi!€d: 16 ells o1Ïfler' ?d/nrt boq'tlit rÔrthe ho$ehold ol Rorc de Clarê in 1235 {li m!2s.2d. Fr e[ (Ctrikppi 1920. ,12) ll1c bc(ùq!âliry ûebine trD{ havc bccn Qrn aid hrdveari.s sinc Quftn Istrbêllâ. *ne ol Edwin ll.nad n r\otk trcT\ it lrnù .nta,1,1e linqt)(Blâcldq & HennaN.n 1971, 143 9), rd noryùtr,Âoods bequedhed tô Richarn de Prt'{otr b!+rêr coffrù in 1341/2 wr. tÎdcvn covsrebtcâl $i[5 ],45:l) lne* irens.où1d haF Ùeq'madc fom conDld.loomNidrhs it.l trr. prcbâblv ofrcn used i'icnliâiscrbly A .lorkr rd

Itis loiûale dÉ( ihe re',aits olthrcc pi{es ollnlxed ilol aùl ?lincn. co@risi{ so dilleFntolrs or cloth. re pres.ned mou rlr $ôûp oJFiilês Fom Lhe hn.BC?).]h.r, arc volrt h a bbby bindins {nlhalt one sv$en ol $read\ onii4. h! or rheDiefts (llos 353. 35,1, fie 971\) ha\F a vcry ell9srm $o!l.n rùn (oidcndy ine wei). {hi.hrtlains rhe shape oI llk mâ!. $ith rh. cle.r imprsior ofrh missine Fno threads, indnûrurhat Lho Ftre Dtudu.ed in a brlmce,l k âvc $'ilha siflilar pmponion or 'dr to {r1t thFnds (È10ihreads ler .D in the NdD and 3 9 ùrends t(.m it the leld Thc soft rexû,(' .f rlrcs. doths{oûld haÉ mdl. 0r.m suilâble lor russ or

'lhe orhû pi(e (No ]s5) ako aoFaA 1o ho?had a varD ûâd. fmm ceÙulo* fibfe pleseBdlh rhc fo, m olbritle. bl:rken{l 1l'(!ds .m$ins

rrr\rt,ùù by.o{rtrl1o No\ n53 md 35r, ûeltrlyr Ds am zspun and cloth is $cfrn..d widiâ frio or r:rp ro \rcfr rrù.ads rmgiis from I I ror:45 (J dr{rs s I c,, ;i 1rr uD a u-13thtuads F cm in th! {efr) (rig s7ts). l1r s !'.fr:

.ohry dep6ir5 {a) b'roed vs\r N o 354, (B)

Iaced hhic is pâhdned widr horizôtrbr ùrids ùt,.d ànl r-.Ir". rh. r-(ùùw yld beirs \tishltr-fiier h di.freLer t he characte. ol thn pic.. str*gst that il roo. could hle been uscd À r rus

Narrow wares

n,êinritrhdueolbtuidsyasnn iqdâ .nuif tr!,li,lii niô1,. l)omih ougùt Næ.onsido rbLe. nnd turkshoos ftre .slrlislfd Mderdr paùonqe olrne coun ûnl chufr, \r,{c t Ll}oi( riir..s ir.orpo':tiDs conly melal thÉrd.ould be .oturi$ioned I lndon had probâbly bè.ome $e mân centre oIll'e irn^]ry i ja.slùnlby rhc lar. 12th o, 13th cennLry,Ior h4Ê quûrùier ol silft add n'êtn thread ùtr nnponed bmftl ùe denr{1s ,'r .t'ltroidù.^. Dary or{hom rcndcd in the Ci$. Bnidntrklu wsclo*ly Àsôciatd $Lh dnbtuidery bul develoDedirdeperde"lly rnlmaiDcd chrily the prtsi\t oI urrÉi. $ho mtodJ' nâde dre goûds bùL lrequdLly hnlle,l !!rdjes dr silk ihf.Àd, d.xlinc dtc.tly lith 6rtismerchmt {D.le 1932/1 32? 9)

tsrâids Irm d,e l,rdoD c\.Âri,n\ râll iniôroùr ÂmuDr cd.ao, i{d by hov rhey rtre h.iie

abl!Îrcve( rir!êrloop.d plâited md hbbyImn. The fi.i (hre ',clhql\ e'â1,1. bodi tldând tubula bmids to be prcd(ed aud. ùeisÉpre*ied hêfe silk drread Ns preleredsinre iG sear Daù41 {r.rAin a''d .lasti.iq madcit ûc nms adaprable but Norsled !ùi .nd li"eiftrea]sÔUs.dAs3funne'nÉngtheni.gJnea'sùe the sjlk rlnc lN $ully pli.d âD.l thcnùsd doubLe or in rups ol rhreÈi iùuF of rires.d'esê prmes.s lonniry pân oI Lhe roûne lrslsurderl,ùer br lillwûm.n ând th.i' apo'ûn.cs.\lekl thÉd !.s more ipûritalr !*d lrut it $?srcofpoLted as a supplenerlâry !r11c', !L,ri i,'

bothIrI.n.lvsisi di.atestlDttlism.blissiller\ùih a very mino. nnbunl ol .oDer tû sil.l.dsilrù ôr rilv.f.d corFr rlloy) Iû one inemce0\ô 4:0) dre stip ol pfeciols nebl $?s {aùdrcmd a .ore ol siLk, or 1l'e oll'cr (xo 3s6) !rôb*bl! rô!nd À cû c ot liDcn (hr.ad ihich has tullèdh dre dve^ide .nvitrnnieni wheÉ I lâr- bù'ed'nre

nreLrl nav hrr beq, {{ii, {l A lilr.r l€ftô asub{'ab or aDLml $t (menbnne) b( rhh Gu'..n,in Àioùcr rabler Noven braid cJo 41Ù

grDrrlk on\ one !_pê ol nbre is lsed throqh

tblet'wor,'€n bmids

fte lerhnique oI hl,lel \eoj,Ls vas palird irI.:nslaM d 1.x$ rs hr bâck d thè Itun AseQIûFh.ll l9t0 1s0) àrd dr recovef! ol â bonelablel pieRrd wilh [orr h.l.s rtuin À d.posit irliDdoD dati.sto the serond hdionhe lsic.ntù4lD (Mùsêùm or r,ndon, Oelanmenl oI tld,ù

steet.lLt\83â..ro931)sh@:nDtd'csk msalready kno{n nry eany i,, (he cjr!5lii\i.4.$bôl and lir.r thr.ad E.e u:ed 6r bnids ineârly Anglcsao' rrghd, bû patem b'!câdi4roum be.ried ui wirh ôrliû 6brsihâiipo$ibly hom horshils. \rs ide ined otr çoolbtrMs rrôD dr. sBts ol chieftàns ât F-lelir a(iso*rno j,, sc{ NùNÀy t).dckam 1924/s 2?:M?gnus DJa.300) ûnl nay llossibly ha\€ beetused lor sinil{ decodion or biiid\ ierd i"edly sÉFs p(lIps or thc tth cenhry dSnâpe. SdJ.t[! (Cû1.loo. roûhcon'itrs c) lklalin ùeJomr olnd cul d.iF lna,ld roil. !a' u\.d bb'r.Àd. pàd.rns otr {ool bnids ât'l:Lplo! Bùtu{(ctu\Jùor r9$. {?5 6. iis 336) md ror d--orà[oron Mmen's hanbnjt j,' 61ha.dûry li.ntishF:!.s (c ronfoot ê HaNkes 19rj7) 'l]t lrùtr1h iiinp.ned sjlk thrutrd toù Lhe middle oI rhe Trlrceù'ry led 10 \in lùler $ovJi l, mi.ls b..ô'ninshighly d.snrbh in tiûglmd

'Lhis dÈleloDn'ent

rheld urd. Jlal {riri\ orÂol.l, ôi sihr, mN b.i.gspnrlr sÉtd roùd â.ore of silk or nd, o'niorc .xc.priotully, romd a core of hoAetjl rian(YeR(l"r& tuùl.ll. 31 7;).

lne an ol ùbler \e.{iu aûiiûl tr hLgh lft1olæcomplÈhftni in Enelm.t orer rlie (oûse or

bnids r{n to thÈ .nbûiderêd $ol. andnLnide rhic[ kre .ornLjssiored l] Qkq,

qFlÙ ùs{trd b dr srùin. or si cmrbdr.lroùâùty b! rirs/frrÉr\ùD, Ærilaqi,trqÀu'in girJ (tsanirombe 195rj. r3). Lnese braids in.lude piê.es p,hfned {iû brds, hons ddaldrrna !,.rxs (.n,wrùn r$1r, :7 f,1i: Gù{iror

1956.,13ir $). lhjdj xppêm ro hN beer s,ovqrro rr<-on .tred d.sigtr\ rarhù rh.n ji..ty jm.,rùqn d h i \P.kf rc'irtuu r95h rit,

iiôDr'nlon (n lllll. *t morclouoNti(eI d .u r r i r t r ûn r t r ud r ! . r { t r i t \ \ t Jq ,r t so , r i e+ r . | \ 4 i I L+Lmn6 . l , û rh . ,

! . ! r l n i l , i . . k i m-d , i r , , s N n r mu , ibe i i ( , t ch i | ' h . À i5h

'r\s or ûê 'nèûl dr. dl. the Br! oJ iib, È Nd,ihc.orôuA rhe rrn {s dy.d.lheroDdenrofûre Danern xDd Le \idnr ol ù. b'âid riMs;fisro'D or rtavLrt rrt ind,y reyal lidies s.ùr rohâlt puBu{rns a ptr{iûe Ll.r o. tdi.d tjl1) adâùc!Èr ot H.rry II, js 'tptrÈri to har mâde a{ôh trl,rch is ùrer{olQ } di hemnr q,h h iLll 'd.m \p:h.i I he. m. r 4. . q i,Ao\rrr,rr , { , . : I r h r n r + f td i r rh r r i r , r r ! d .:m ts, tu. cii rILr tl' i3l. Tl. ridùo.was.onlind byrrerdeserdrnr.Ft(lrf r.?çtl., who nrrild rd{anl i ùd s!*hi solal, inleùng duriu her lis illn.s D rlr âtrru,ii oil2e0 (Pa^ons 1e77. r2). Nôbrslonn onrhrdmyariy tri rleâdis bnnh bd rhe oûin{ of th.serNûcmb sa\ recligibte comDùqt qilh rh, dNn\ rnl komcn *hose [Le[hood .r.Fndtd

A sill th'râd rrem {i4 mr! haq.been a ûbters q b rd sJ rl i .ft,1 6i L Lh? llon d iro th - rn 1 budu j \ t I s ! . ù l r l r l hdù1q31 . i j . p l t \ L . ' r t r c ê r t j r+ i , r l t ug t r r rr N . i i i i r r pc i r hoh ' 4 ' ! h j ! r . t r \ , i j r i . Lh r L b . i q L È n b n i d h r ; b . f . l f r e d d , L r l it ù b ê i ê u n d h : l n r h - 1 3 r r r È n t u . ù n ! t r {

, . , \ ? t h r c d \ r . t r vL i r i i . n r É p r n ? m ô r A r e n r q

- i f ê o t r h r t ' r ! i , , . !

c. iu th! r4d . ol Lherrrad ai dris po trr. I D.acù.e rhû son dtmesnraN borh idps ùe io b. yer A si, l[ brÀtdbro..ded \nh crosis ii sibù{ilr rlread,n Irud oJ srler nlk. vis ùsed ro edq. atr { btuidrr.d sirk meslr hùn.t ll,irh $?! *c.mr.

I ll - cdûBL ahcsNidoirlntrvum \trkmbcd lHr,û Llr Èr 1 , 2 u 3 0 I t F t 4 \ ' h r i d u n L n j t*i1rd û1. vnre pupose dthoqh rc sùr.h holesa.e apptrient arorq dl'e edse h. [rr D Lnble.

ron 1lk ù trrienkfthrGdrsk rc riinilarl! broùd.d d ùeRâlsrilh

lrdui.l lrôe (\raùo! s[r 1933. \. l; io:$ ft,Rq) n êvr f.t- d! |

r , . r - h ! d lL r L rntunes !lr.r rh stuûùl \tâ! $a l.ii !rih.

^! s sinar Ltuid I.ùilered r.ù | tai.1]rr.

- r , ù L^ rh ! ! r t r \Àm r m , r r b i , , r

F a d . . h I ' h l d t r v n , d . u . r ! h ?g'ordMa\!cx..piar rrreedseirh.,.rlrbrG.rûng ùy.d i etunE md orty nross b.ieflv on

b ù . ! i . r h 4 ! d !

hdê ùa'it '!rtr<d 'u'e.$ir8lrkl Lhey \re.c a ùr\rbsic frb;e D.njji

rll the hbleb {erè rhreadèd rnroq$ Iod holes

metl thread sin& è..h eletent À romNsed ol â:rredef nmber ol stmds doùbled æd ttuad

li.ed slaves ûrher rhù hding . ritht ùd awoq s e md, i'Éread or being rDplied ro aÈ

There are roû pntr'ples ûôn l4th.eitury delosils ir lrynrq, âd rlo frotr, delosi(s iialing ro

A rabteL\den bnr nÉd i, slyting ùe h?ir iswnio r plaibd hriroic.c (No142, !ig 99). llr

rrere oriqina[! dâched to n d inbmk lnc

beanb md ornmenrs ol pr{ious mdl ro besiitied, dner ùân riveled on io sitk (NMon1e80, 36). JMllcd hxnbands or rilds can bc sc.nii mùri l{th.eitrry dê|)idiois or rashjoiableldies In the lllos lilec \rere lonr !i{h venicdpla[sh.]dinpla.cbcsidcbothchccks,anditws

lirbler{den girdles &uld be hiqh\ deco*tive âs {tl1as vefy sûaq md ilenble. À{my e1âb

Brore. in.hdi s rh. sù..Ued sMnl beh ol rh eI.LlnG Don Femândo de la G a (lied U75)

work (côùez r\{oroo 1946.22. io f4. !h 135.13ô Clllin 1956 ùlli Finledin l!,71. 331-2 no 6lfiF 36l!,1. ̂ nothc' sconcticÀlly'at ncd si.dle Âariished *.ih fitiiÊs i" silver aid siher gilt,wl,ich È rcw h tlf Ndira|lr!*rtr, ofDeD.mark. n somctimcs cbimcd to halr bclong.d toEfir or Ponctriâ (dird 115e) vho bc.atu lins

mrk in thc late uth cenba (lùgerlin 1971 3ri?,no 126 iÈ,109). A beli I om the irer:] arhidÈ

Ë

bq

orry r@sùi (a) \o !3, û! No r1, (a) \o 4j

rù 6? j ù i ' f r r i - uùà .n ! r r \ r ! t r rÈn'xD\ r0rrcnnort,rùibededu.pd hÎn,N

Ld' L\ ùr: [, u( u.I'rh ùl labl..r'orln nrrf lcdhrx ftr, ; sôrornnon in m d eql EtrroJÉ r\ l, . tronj rh!

ion,b .f srrho n (dird *r9) j,r l.ol.do ûth.d âlde Èhri.lr {ilh ùidelokftl casr[s. rhe* . ù f cJ \ i t ? LÀ t ! .i v r0 r i r uhq . f u t l d r ' lr. ,i lu d, li...nl.L L,i,Èz Àton4 teb û140j amÉr.ro 193! 37)

Thrc. orrlLe silt bbkr$îrr Lftid: lroin t4ihd rs .ond in rô l , t l , . F bpÊn i d q r tAd

b l2,mrkuld haÉ been opm|'ùÈ tor elh{

moio.rirurt cto 450 lia '0ûp, dd rtie dh.;\ r r . r 4 . r t u u rvu .ô r01 i i r ! r û ! ne

'rlnh rntrd rô | (No,151, tiiÉ 1û]|)Lrled snlles q.n trrde fmh ffaii

r - l r bu l LoôLcL^ l t ru rr d d : r û n q ô A

Ùj'eposrip.'scir'd'iLhnsblrkl. i(1,{lbùnô r r r "u i r enJ r \ n , t r . L rh ,hnsu rnuÈ lLs i iNù i 7 r r1 ) Ào r tÈ rho t r r . L , rndpo'?r! lme 1,ldEentury rlllosir .oûbin.s soFsÈd rhr.ads ùùh a saù mord d \i[< drarledh p'adf! | n'ûr Èren (No l!1. rrjq r02r.

{1. iÙù â Lb l,rh+dury eFsj', 9d; L L

Fkro3 slk ùbld lqq gidl! \hi!h \s pn-

dâ6nglolLc619l'a[olihcrfthentqSù]c5l

Figlo4sikbbÈll],EgidtrNo44,.fut',dc

sidsnondo ràndolto Mrlâtesb (died Ë6€) inRnrini,Ilaly O\il l97l Flury-Ilmùeq 1933,15ç7, 471 iigs 957 1;l, no 2,1) md mothcr supposedly

Etrbd . orll 'c.oâiiolt;f.d: (I,i it.rlh 1e71,3t-3, no r74) borh ol {hi.h âre Dârernèd witl'bands oJ.ut pile k1É and gold loops on a t,bl+

nanisdres Natioialmuseum, Nlrenb{g, simùlares sti. damask (}ils in 19?1. 1lÈ21. io

only the mr$edyrn apÉaA to hm bes drrd,a r.d wefr conh$iry {nn ùe ned black hue of

rhe edgls .nd in rhe .edhl stipe where the silkmds were ùEÂded throqh fou. holes md

Tw lâùld.!ùe! gidles lrun l50raulury dÈtssi6 in r,ndon. one pre*md Nithù a .opp..aÛoy $rp end ro *hnh ii ws orjginrly ivebdlNo 423. FiE 10n) md tle ôrier beântrg In es olthree riÈt holes, !tub.bly .lso lrùr â slmD ùd(No,10,t, Fs 10,1), rde, a ôæge in slyle,lor ùey

paneri iis Ï'G châite is also @i detrt iion' vh! âlsoures, Ircm {hidr ir cin Ùe \ær thar r$menbcs to wr eider girdl.s above L\c Mtomlwisdine in sùbdued nonoctuomc mlous whÈh

ten soù.es rèiiJor.e this i@re$ion, espêd.nrrhe galure ol A@â81 rFsed in 1.163 du iq ther . i gno fEdwrd l v 'wh ich ' t l .N to toncswmuhr like ro vehq or to s.dn bnnched (Sdlures oI (he Reahn.3 Fid IV c.5). By analysiq rhebElds it .an b. *cn Lhat \ercE krc rblc ro

(.l led$ or \tiuU6is {ln'. ltlvel .rd sriùdmnskjmt as h erlid rentuies they hd simu.1âred smnb. ]lis d*lopmenr is iûusbared flenbelG.ùy tree ùble!ruEn !irdles from rhe CoÈlinenr one a endh tum L\c tomb or Frin.c

Iiero5 trulir bbL!".ri brid5. ($ sirk, No

rhê bÉefl, aÎdle. ùrakitrg !ùfe $ris o F

L b i , r . i i r t u h i q ù . ,

nlL u,l Lfu ir brl I r u) ii.ruLri s, . , . i . . " , . , , ,

f i . l , d \ i ' i r r l f ! lh r r d [ t L ! t s t h i . l ! 1 h {L.ouse dF cdee\ tf ihc Iintr.r \{c lili.lt tolrr Th.s L ôu.h mJd, iùtr!i tr,irr I ' i '

h n i h d u i L t r l 0 ihh jrtr.:drd rhnilh M hotcs GiÉ 8,Lnt AdiasiiN l( athcr oou.h in llk ( ollc.lions oitheNlNrm;lrnùdôn (Il()l.ac. m?0?32) bY(trtæ( ws inis!,,d \ith iù$ No LÔurhoredyeâded rl,l.F ând this .dgirr aho hèlped ro

' l lrc.e ar xlsr na.n 1uhtrlâr Lrtdtrcoh ids ol \rl'i.h live arP silk ul ht uoôbdban r{Ùi{cnlun deposiL.b lnnd,n (Tâble I)l r r d ù Ê r t u m n h l d \ i i d r r l r f r r , '. l r r r . p , + ,1 l r r c rh ' l r t ' ' d F tu t \

b f ' i l r u rn r t s ù ir ' ? 5 ! r o h + ^ ! d f t u i b r l l \ l i h i 'Ddltrn.d rirh ahenirjr's g.onts or ddk rrdi a r t ro iû t , l 1 , " , s Nor rq F iqxrÂr t rd

l ù : B r l h s i l t u b u L f r à d . L r f ' ' ! r " i r lto lii tr1chole Lrbl.6 \ùi.h $tre 1ltr.ad.d i'r anid.li|,Ll di'ttiot i!iv.] hâll fuûE loj trîr(|rh.r.hù*âseonh.xrh nre{ûr:FrlLridsb \ ( o , b r , . , r ! ! t r ! b - . È L d r i , l I:mallff nb-rit uu l. . , n . , t r , ê r h n n i c l r l r t f \ i ' i l d h r r r t r r h

itrc r râ1 ro I ti otish.hder dll(rl I Àr$$ 12e Ih ; \ a , , f l , n h , e . r kL L u ( d b \ u . n { . l r t l r t . ô r i q f , l i r t u ? n i- 0 . . C *

" l l ' r Ù r - , . : 1 { n i i l

l h .e ûh L l t r r r i d . \Ê ru pù i r s i n r \ ê r. q h . i i l , t L ! i d ! l n i i

r:ri,,r m.dê 60r u( such silkên brairl "1'

cI .ro'efd ItunL ih. late ]1th{eùry do.k i.ill àtnLT L \ " , ' l r . f u r0 r * . ' \ ô l l cL , l l q iT ! lA

m l rbq p lbH) , l l

hold in plr. a n orvsiI(tuins rood i6 op€nins. A sinilâr edgnrs soduced {irh tw lùlcb isFesenen or . rrrgm.nbry silk Fuch û.deiiom a loos.lv lffù welihed con4oùd l{illând here â 4 6mr widrh ol clôrl, {is ltsrly toldcdinyrds 10 pnrnh â 6.mcr cdsc (!ig 7')

sg106Ro4mEbdnÂdaÙbu]qbb|.+vom

wefr: silk, nidùon (nqaù!!), /-/spl!. ), 23

tqF: e iù. hol! ùblL6, lrtiiâblJ s ând z

bbl(6sruù!di ntuni. rh. Tme

r.r2 D mûsio6 0) r 150nn v 1riûn, (i) rsrn!10nn (i) is*qbaphcdbii4Èe arir

Selected catâlo$e XII:

rz Dd.rsiûN I 3r3mo (lD 3 tr4rutrs). v imIincn'mitl3mnlsptks)wdg s lk mô.bmw (ilrdiû z/sdy

1i4: jrk coLù) bnN (rÉùù,r/spL!nur Jk qi d4hnu z/!,1r.lri pilks Dû. n

r F ! ù D û D ! u 5 l / ù ] N l o \ i i . ù { ù e

tigs lagui & Pi ir.h{d 1e{. !q ru)

ri4 sirr 61. brorl7/!i!

r, r ioF,: (LLi) r tuùn. \' s.nrr (t hr\ di i l lL

l I 4 l s L k r [ ù ù h r ' ! { ! Z / ! p r ] 'l i ! k I Dknh h,{! z,/tr! t ' '(rI)

gtr i iouldYgitDl/ 'ùjù!IafedR'

'Ni !qark). z/s

( | ur o, ulb side) K a lDûrrÉly gnt )

q*l!!tgj{)nfu/LÙislorci(ri '

\ i lq' i5ll i J,rkgddqùÈ^ li.g !. i //çrrf

Pi. n \dr sins tu tNn d u tuL r (:r t!tr

drqdmmr! /. rn5 i,Ê{d\ lro {.b

ua![(!g N rrù'i is1 rû nD

\10 () ù'nql.,ld k b olr rlspl!

ÉibedgÈrhnlrne.rhkùn"ilLsilkiùic

dùqrroD hù\ui!{rsi!q' / luGh

\'4:sjrr.ûLds[holn([pù!)'Zlsr,l)ftn jik rcddnh hnn! trFda) l/splt,ri

draded d!e' ! qùtùN ihn beds

rntÀigirq]qùùùlus'/.1Ûl5iorfdds

ûs mi 1LF4' & Prirdù' d r99r 6g3r)

Iingerloop braids

Bnids ude by ûe nBdoop merhod \Ere rl$

examples live bed r*o@red Jtun lrndon deposi6 olûe lare l2rh 10 eany Ëù (rilurie\ fl,blei2) l w orihcs {c' c uscd to edge knoftd meshh.irneÈ Nos 399 aid 115, Iigs 9 121), md rolhera\âpurrslri"s(Nô$e.Fis31^) oth.^could hm been usd lorlâ!ènins clorhins Gee Li1ô1) ]Lc techniqùes requned threads 10 belooFd ùr o...rd iû oi.l.r i. slip ôrr drc ti4 !s.!ùile d the opposite dd the tkemh were âtbchedioâtuedpoinl Amirimtrrnotlhreel,!p\vâs.s.ntial \ithanscnDmbùolloopsbei4dùed or the fiiteG or one hand ad usually modd nmber on rhedher Àr.nlir's b rl'. tr'âr!ncr in ûich thc loops Rrt mmipul@.L eilher rflat ôr r tubtr1âr bÉid could be mde (Fs 10iSÉise. 1931, 12È42) Irôr i'or. iiâû s.i.r loopsÀ ssond peÉon ms ftqùed sin eir*.sù'lprù.ii.âl to us dre ihmbs io.hooking rhe loops lrom

le4tth de nèeded dr. heb of ù assitut tobmspod the shed 10 (he oDosire s 1)I 1l'elÔÔ$I.]iÀnplc'omllndmshoqlhûitqsrctùNu.l ro hrve at least $r peopl. {orklns dee$er ând as nrary r\ lhiee $u'ld lidrlldne.sâry ib' a 2llloop b.:id rtcmÉd 6om thel.re ùth{eûûry dôck iilill at Bc7? (Fq l03c).l.i s or I0 or non luôt,s 'nâd. by tNo lf,ool.hxd thc advaDtqe Ihd rhêy rould be divided i oso bils alons pd oI their lsgth (Fs l03B),vl'lfh {l,ld r, ili.t v.ratilit} as ptrn. stinsstsRids mlde û1h le*r loops $mennes hadplaibd bils (e.g. No 365) and n is probable (hal

menlary !'ouch No 393) h aiother estr'plêÀ f la t , r l l oopbm . t00nn i ' , l eq ] l , , , i ( l L i 5

rr.scNd .onDlcb. wiqhs a mere 0 3r tiql03A) It can. thereirfr. bt dhnnred ùat â1 leasl3J i,ch bnid\.u'l,l l,c ù*,le rrun û..m.. ôlnlk (m oLmce Éprt*nlins thê usu.l nè.sûÈ bywhi.h silk L\Éâd Ms sold) By conts( rhe

tbkr2}r4n@pM&@defto$qP|yli l

D

G

G-,.,

";,,

-:ê

.

}..;. ' . -

dalûbqrùcd,\o1ù. (B) dr

No 370, (c) b.did oad! iron ,0

lexn llo^ (D?Le 1123 32) Voi oI lhe inserloop

dYoe axft rûn on. ùin$n{orored r:gn rd (Nor i l s ) . i l l r edosnh{ lA , ' r bn ,Mrno dyeshùls hae been !ondvel! idenrii,ed. Hos.oef, ùeâds oI No h€s Joniry âlrernaring

rlich hrs No looF ordùk broM silk aid tlyeeloops ol a pder lokletrùturî ô:o uB) FiueFlôop brids using silk thr.ads of thrcc and ibrrdifûert .010!6 re knoMi ftô'n cathêdrul ûe]su.ie\.{here rr,evoiû, in, drrsrj,{.ll)reri.quary bqi and threads ol amther color Erc

Plaited brdidsPlailing {as andhc. mci.ûi and \id.sorcad

in then dinensions nnd eldicit. md th4 $Heeqdl qui.k b ptudka As Nirn iiqerloop

Lheû,.hho,ah in some re!,ors tod.y bobbinsare ried (o erch elemenl 10 imDron rhe tensionxM .llthm of inb.la.ing (Hald 1e80, ?1(É2).Sq!ùe bnids n'adê lion' .ight eleùeù rê tleo,on (dùûr rraile,l Lfink ftoo ,,edinrnndon, r!here rhey o.crr in deFsib of rh. rir!\aM 1,rdr .entuies (rable 13, riic roe), rd a bnid

ccntury d.posit (\o 4r, lig110 ).^thaione

silL brid rpFa.: t, hnr brrr reL| ranrdr Éds or ùtrr rhân om.ûlor (Nû l;il rnl rsv(rôÉ)du.i,L(.,r.{r I i (i,iarûr).Lrn difr,,or.olous helÈd rlk ùrtrls Lo bÈ nûriûLhaLir

r l f t âd (No . ' 71 r .F i ! l l 0E ) .F rL . l c fu d i .D {1 .û[ of h!. 6IGDLy fltr.ads vh.h \ouk] û1m

Tabby worFn braidssLlk ribbons in rtrblrv *t3vù 3ppùi $ Liqalish

xi$iir 1u!i i d'lh) lrù il,.r di û,.xDo.ùùril rhe l.rÈ 1.11t' &ùry. \rrrêr n'er mê seiê.?Ll! i!Êtr lrom rtrldv ru D rnL kJr wr ('ftLlile1 { ) . l h . . a r l ù i b b o t r s x ! . m l $ o ! . r i . n p l L c dthro$ silk iJFterd !r.se Gr.lesDm.d) silk\ns rotrtrrotr :ùnl Ùr vaqr mi/in rtfr yrrs.rfr Di.s lr3ii ss s lhsindur.stutthc

f r L ' | ' a o 6 r { m '

Firll ràbb.lGi.ibboN:

I:eniL^ and Ckthits

dd hæ $itch lioles fld hces ol ssj,'s dlcadalory each sidè (Nôs 331 335); so otheis ùesilbhcd io L\e wi$ oDdillls ofbubmd s1es6(No 216.Ii81{-4,No219)!md rorl'er 1o U'c.dÂcol a learher È,u.h (No 333, fis [t0). Indeed, tlretrs. of thÈ bEid as a bi.dins in the lâre uin csrlury app.rs to ffik rhe begi 'j"gôlashifr&ny

GartersB) ine Kond qErer orùe 111h .dtory Âd^hid baôDc a strllicicntly conspioous itetr' ormle dre$ ro be sadrGcd in cond4orary ârl. Aiedr r{ù{en(ury e'nbrôidcrcd o@hrry sho{smc or chisfs ll4qennù6 Etriis a crtr(chrÂrie 1913, no 72i Kry l9d3 33. no 53) andmmy trmpl$ r. dcpictl iû ihe z!rf,,\dl,a .132t35 (rt 112). shordy âneNrds8aftn b{me enshrined in poDllâf imdnationby ltu .reâriôn ôr drc Ordcr ol the Gdler, sonetime behveen 1347 and 13!9 (Ni.olæ 1&16, 124-30) I! calier p€riods didondly mrnrl or.rosssaders. $.h Às ihos. d.pided in rhe Bayeux]àFsby. vere popular since rhey enabled læseleg cmrnlqs 10 be held nir y i" plrc. Narrcsleùqtls ol .lod! NUaUy betveù 75m and

.:'rribbons har diferent plæes ororisin, rhe tr[eroÈs p€rhaps oning lrom s.all vorkshops sihded i'i ilc lflln or ccûfti Asû lhe lârer oiesbcing lo.âIy produced in r,ldon nrm inponedùreâd. As ùn olher lrl)e! or brud, sonhd Fûus e'neii'nes ùs.d ir$cad ol silk ùd oreuovenrom siryle Zs!u, rcAbd yrn $hich waslôùrd in alâie 11(h{en(ùry depsi! h, like mostorthe sjlk ribbôns or simila date ûÈfr.ed (No33i. F,E ù1C). No ùlou eIIe6 re viiÙlesh..eas sin'ilar \il* ribbo's eithcd b F$ûptrLs shos ihât mmy r€re mde silh nùlii{ol

Some ol the riblDùs ç.fc Lsed to bind dtcdÂcs ho kqq.hs de Jolded doM ùe æ.lft

L\isli,re.Then FpLJaily in the 14th cmhq,lileLhd in dre eater canlinEim period, coincidedwiù â sholledrs of Den s t!trics. Otuo slit in ùeIrod ùp L qist heisht 0{efron r$0, 4), rh*eùsed rhe leg to be displârd more @minendyth4 it had bo for sne @nÛfi.s.

It is lil<ù th.t wner ale wre Elners whichreminêd cdæaled bênearh thêir tullldrÊlhtoni6. lbe exc iion of Lhc bmb ol a Me.dii'€im princs, po$idy ape arrecmde,who €s buried .565 70 in li'e dne'lral of IDmis, lruæ, ræâled rhâr she Næ lâid outffiins lind hôs *ûen bdN boù heessirh bdner crcssdrinÂsaroished siil silErbuctles ûd shnp ods (Frârcel.nord & neury

1mlm çide æd sqer:Iy !l]m Êon wr*d!ûn in tous]red broten dltmn Mil1, ùm bænidernlici as gmG6 and ùe kîown tom moynorih Euopû sdlerenb indudins lûn{d-hry bndon (hitchad 193.{, 63-9, pl ûrD). îêyapped to hâE been wr in long sdips md o'd.ur in t\, t Dtuvide a û.t lli$ pair sone olthe*, hoM, may haÉ ben usêd âs les bân.d,s6 nLhcr rfim æ Eftn, æd their ùdL\ Hbe con!2$ed sjlh the nrnwrsftn, 13Im ro23mh *ide. fom l4lh{entuly Lodon D6pitethe obvioùs inrersl blm in lhe coloù md.ut oIho$ in the uth md l-3ù æntiei *ùiô is appârst llom mousaipt illuminâdonq litûe isklrlM rbout whât teis, if ùy, rere srn âr

"- ,a ar, li"a, nu-**" ,rr,n""u,

'lb e pu poseudr erb6 fec@ered tron .hn rh{.trùtr} dqr\iii. rrDdor enrbte us 1o,lèr.iriir itrtr. Dr{i*ly hor'lh{ xtr madc airliis Jkrio A lory urp {N ser up on a nartô{band looD ltc bcd pr.s.N.d ôr dr. L oned.r h:r ?s crds rrÉiged in . s.rud.e olraur tur {nr\. rs rrl[* emk, lltree red ends (\o388. fig n3).lodrù orth. blr.k cMs s.n.drc' .d ûtuùsh ûc hcddlês or n,e boû in Dairs\ hjd, n n,rcd j,, i nniaer sâner wilh x mo'îclJli. nl $Ihen ùrning .onncnc.d dr. w.ftÈsed bnrkrrds md loNfds arôr! one sel!rds..butotrûr.odr.rsid. of in.wnexhdedroud r rôd ôr.ord l.yo lhe \Eb so thxi arri's ft\ ùeded After the Jù11 lensth or thegnnù rzs lÈmn. th. pi€c arFa6 b hâ4 ùeenLft on ùc loo'n ând lhe {eh !ùn, which rcnij,r''l dhdul r, rl,e la{ !i.d. Nxs darncd roù!l Iro in the wp dn..non or di. cxbtrddlools Lo the lidrn desi'cd fnf dF salloD. 'Inesam. r.4in of ùud *d\ ùwd i,r rlÉ nexl sGllor by rye6ritchiIrll ok alge ol th. conDlct.d\rallor I rhetr repeaùq rhe p,!..rs lÏeviouslvdcsc.ibcd (Fia 115) n. si.rih tri,i ltqrl' oI rhe$trllops €ry iot orly noù sder to gtrr bûal!, h rhe vme Die.e, shoNiry ùar itmsdoNby q. \ùthout ounijng th. iltr.âirs l'lr]qr rhesdb vrs ùorn die $6lsht klveùe muld usuârlr hâ{ ri{ lraeql d rl,e rop and rhe d{oErivê

1ibil6 o^d cttrhiry

vâIops below C.loû efe.6 xhirh arc p' c$Dto. ,l ùræ smlers rse ùeaied by sroùp1n!rorether a scrics ot ditrcr.nr.ôlùrcd erds (orom nûros sipes which trortd hm run ho.i7.ihny n^nd rhe leg Neither ùe tuing ôrnnishins edge is presrcd on thcs. l.ndod sarlers ând so ii È nor knoM shêrher they hid eLLbo,atc ii i.a.s. rris in.u,od of!(kiu gr rers NâsItrborious ùrd rine onsmiry Gns.qu.nry. itrffre rolmon in rârer centuries ro ,n.ke rMgahcrs at on.. by wâlins a lids loompi<^.e{hhh sæ .ur in hill lencrhvisc and ù.n

rota[gftB{crcpufp.e,nid(a ]nrirrsoIclorh wfe sorednes r{yded as sdB.firnpl4 rrm the lde l4rh cmrùry in.lude lùie.e ol smib (No 3:t6, Fia ?6) m.l ù,*iblysme knoGd flved$s fr@' wold ûbriGnc cs.nrjar quÂrily Lr?l 0rese pi{es is ûatilcy

Selected catalosue Y\IIi

:43 DirèNioùs: r.rûùr v rb (hdud q al

wiD (' wd. rd ( nâddû), spd(ii) wrr. h,.k l iaddû), z!u! ! t?

n!h: {qi. d (nlLddd, rsÈu ,0 21 piûs pq

(i, Qd bb!( s sDû'

Je, Ditulsio\ rsnn w r'ûù (ùdldiDs sithps

( iJ !!or. [Ld!k,7_ nNi. x] râùs pù !n

HairnetsHli.d\ }e.e âisô mi(l! in r.r.lô, aro,n in

Q)âle r$2/,1, 331) fnrermrpl.s ôr ho&d m.sh hâirù\ halr bæi recsrr.d 6.û, er.r\?dons ir dr cily: on. froù arâre 1llhrentury d.jmsir rq! Irom deÈsils

ùd a snxn 6.apn{{ from rhe lâie t4rh ce.tu,rTnl or l mi.mr \- if Ùr, L "nr h.,u€se.FtL: I q\?lkdtl\ rld atlle Limr oril,uônLiù'Ilis

..!ords liih vi!!d *idenc shit ii shoslr,aL hân .h rih I small knôd.d Desh declincdin lmjrnmiry duins dre ]4rL .enûry Às r.'nxteha6Llleschria.d r, @e moFof dre h.E al0,ouh neh ôiiei.ontinrcd to bc wD ove ,hrback of rlù Lead tsy cond$. rh.tr haim.À

' t r f t r p4 rn r h .i h 4 h È ! \ Û ! ! t u É h . d 3 l r ' u r I l 4 i EÉa. to hav. ùrsilcd oi a 'uh larlei sturnj.fmesh iô ùhi.h j$tls ..tr1,1 oore easù! be

ri\mrimtion oa il,e lou hâtnêts, \lhich a..

Il;"

ncn6TFi.âllqDdlebeddr4sj]trludlicâhâj.mr.L?G.30 (âlrc a ûdd!ry oirjaruie b;Dsr..

rnùrydeGi' a'rdea!.1L.os dhdl.dnenr (A .oiDrê pÈ.e, {âre 11 lR) dcdr. sùrc

c

Tç

{nd!'ally similLi providcs æ in.ticdj{r 'i rn.meùod by {bi.h rhey vd. pmdu..d (fis D7) Àseies of l{DDs srs made lioù â lighdy pled dou'blc ilr.ad Rovs or knoded mesli *re rh.r c.caÈd {ith rhe âid oll rdtu*.ctiDAneedle lhich,ro judle t n Mmdes tresered Fom 1,11h. ad

i:\oi

trlly ol .oprer a[oy Tfie* neê dles, {hir h nry inlefgù Irom lornm ro lr7m, lere nÉdÊ fmn

d,n the silk rhre.d .o l be wù,1 on ro theled e \try easiLy Ois l]3). Sheer bend kno6

rin.n.s ofihe ùrêd \ffyirt ftôùi ô,e hanûer 10âtrôil,èroi$ng-uD.rio er Lo e'$e an sensize oi mesh. a urll nusuing $trk, pcûaps a

ii..iôd.y j,,Dcl,!âr{;,sLyldi (s,clurry193011) On the lsth century hânnet tiner thrrd $s

il

Flgl21silkm6hharedNola5'ududiadcbl dadDst)ùesloiquerqorrr,cr4Ll'(,1u! l{)qù {r oic!!, {Jr I 1. (B) dûil sd.3!

!{d r.tr r|l lnn 15 nN Dl Lhe m.sh û (hi.hr,. rl'e nmbo or kmh n:s i nrtar{l u .*ird Lrtr .irùnrrcno (fjl 1r9i À:i'nila' f.}lufc C 4ri.ù ur i rr{nr4 e\ùlared Èon illth{.ù!r} derntri1 i.An,i.irn OiDlau .I$1i9. rlir) ri Ll'i! nsgds dlr ir Mr . rri Lr.oiù1on pn|h.c lh. nôn rù\tde hnirDer\]io}s Lhxrr qâi mde ii dre round and tlntrlrù.{r{rs:l'.{r rlifk \risb} B1sitsani olfôlr rltrlrds LhnLsh th.loi(lûF.{ me ûd(Fig l:1).1nc dpposib eid {i1h !hoû.r LooFr?!

bnid oi rh! trro bndon r[irtr.c çr trt thnrrFtrr \ûrse ed â tirsên@r Lrûi hrs b.cnI rrhcd r iirr scrr\ lirl!wiD!Ll' ead ltiis120)Hoqdtr â kiônd Deih hrimû lion rrr. lidrdsr3rlkl dqrrntF i o tcsp *ùi.ri is D e

Nn, embd s h?s I trtrûoy lrÈen sili hbht çovùirrra.r bfô.r.I {irrL.n^*riJisillt'.silr trêrd.iit l,Pd ilurd thr edg. (HDF l1rlrl llÈr ûl:l)&r) nr n.slL Lrlhishdrnerin rùcDitre|g iseùrùelÙshed xnh a chequ..cd pâtû i ( n)ssesdx' n.d ir sfe,qr Dd lhiLe silk u xDFa,r il,drrttr..,r,{ r nDtc b![ed silk ùeshhtrn'etr\ùcsomcritrlcs trs.d ar trn rûrnlar uL frrDiu.hmùÉ

'lr,n n o,r o I rkiry hù!!$ $:s ti\ Dod 'eùFr r ron r ! t dùq . i " t r { j r ' i r i o r re rn llenod AGc,mm paifiiit ddld.u!0 sirorF awDrxtr {ak d rrj ù qtr sr i ro! rjlm {hLdr a rrs ter{ored ûv!:: r97l ul. hs t) Slr çrks drl,cDelrilhanredle rl,ùishrhaùl bùtuh{thanbqiinirg{irhrnli\of roq^rnt\orkiqjrdrrô!trdrhererni.rtsesin\ ih.xdlnr\

Selecled câtâlogLre XIV

l i[goLdÙ]Ùruutr!]orvl,!)silktvi(q

fl]ç!tte{ÈdùùàÙddiÙlrZ]spL\iÈ

lrei sLk r/srLr preFidm b.ôs

l\

Sewing techniques and tailoring

Creful ormindion ol rhe iexiils lre$flcdI om medidal r,ndon reEâh a much !ae.Èrraire ol ùidence fôr sc{ing le.htiqls ùæ Èimediatcly obvious. Furthernore, a rdt imbcror dre r4th.enbJr Éqrc.Ls .d bc assiatedrùn iGms or.lôthinF vith a cerbin deFee ot.ôrridcû.e. YeL the vêry hd rhd rliâ ôreffheLn-iù nâjûil' ol rhe* reriilcs rcprestt diudedsùûx ltun mn clothins s4erâl or mnv v.rso1d at Lhe rine ordepositioù, nB]tcs such d exêrGc ot idùdlior,oi hardo,6 od ucedain,and ii G ro bc hoDed rhat mor lishl ùill bc shcdon the ideidtr.âtion 01{,nc of dr. sdits 6 adned resJi ôrihis publi.{ioi

rôr thr pre+^t.omÈ!!p !nn's Bi lcnc.uhê dmM lrom rlt 6r Filc co@\ or mdtddorlriiscrâmed in S.andiMùâ,Irotr' l! ont, ich remis or 16ih{enttrv .lôùing frnqdeils.and tom more rrcni Eropem exGvârions Arthe oinc' c ol the $le is ùe ôùe drây olsLnivllg nrdi$al embôid.ry. mo{ esD€ciauJ'ûesotrp dtibubd b Éislish 'nrufacrùe (r,raia,uJ,i,r!n), nlch ol {hich it b.limd to hâ€be *orked in the .ity or lnndon (Xi.s 19€3, 5)-n'ev pnbmidcries denonMte ihe hisli lè!.1 ôrstitchins skilh {hi|h exieed !id. ry sid. { n theEiloriu needs j', À iujor on,trb.ion llke medi

(nnren0.riry iluniùijôns md *trlDtreshrve beer ùmh u*d in the $trdv or med'{ird:cs (Cùinsron & CminAor 1952i E€ns$52: nenld l$t aor 19s0! :ior r$6), bù(jh-\. ô.ùj e€ r eFÉl,sed imFe$ii ôr.lothn{drhetrm. Ùro fft\Fvidcth"dd Lilqor mnhdion aûd swiu hhniqrcs whiLh FFliNlârlvi cres us h drc Iâb 20ù cerruo srchimryès can .etuinly helr, t, gùi.lc us b daliissior rhe rexrile5 cxcact d in Loidon. siden.ewhi.h i' tun is.otrobonted by rlF dâÛûg nid.'cê or æsociared anetuds liom the sde $bsrotrDlcd wiL\ dendræhrciolosy (ûÈri'sdâting).

le$ b:/ drss histori.ns, $itr one or $o er.i'tions (Ctddtrrd 1927i EvaN r9s2: Nston 1930).

Lndem!$ûry oImùr in the itrn' or litcntueor.htunicles tuds b bc iudsed lith caûion,Iu[(hdilh thry ae ol Do{ertul imas a dehilsn h .oiblns m elemsn ,f rd or inbDreÈdhct. Bur hN do s. tôday ide iry ihese clemùtsor jtrds. Lhe biis of a chrcnidei !tubibly À vcry.ônsmtiE chuch',ai. vchcmcndy dbckflasome vhi'n ôr trshion whi.h he niÂhl himselrsenturly .(lopt L\mqh lmiliariry aM the de

re.ords reldine ro the ',a*ina orFrmenc .r thedne mon or {iii.h ccnte trÈr the Greai Wdôb" ot th" Lml'.h roJn hu!\.hii lr!ar.

! ôua r co rL l ' l ' r u lDsns o t Jo r l t s . i l l ' "liùeù. itrs, th.eads br.ids, liinges, et lffmdrâpèc, merc.n æd silùrcûu in lindon,làesubsequen( tcah.nt ol eûe of thê NooÙfldodE md linaû! rhe di*iburion of rhe5. Âoods10 the roel bnoA and lnnôlfen vho tude tl'eclolhin( u,d srch oth.r l*rile iteNs 3s btd ?ndmom hqinsi hof* ftppeA adlrùûsûng seaiaM tlæs rd baDc* ror ih. ki4r and hh turnlyu riimds (slailmil1973 9d ad 1939).I'rrôrm:bui Jbout ! prn.- d',1 m a. or màÈnrl\{lù!h ù<w d( {,Ls ! Mde tr lÊ urêtuÙt ù'sô.iabd {iL\ stiving t:ales like ùon: cFav.ted in r.ndon md Q' h.lp to .nend ourkno{ledse irtrl trîdcBtudiû of {hat re no{snâI bm! st.ps orcloLh.

odr.r Grd lvaùùt. a..ounb deùil the eF!fl\è\ .lâitr,cd by the 1âilo6 md âmoùeB itrrddiiion.l reqlisibs ed laÙou. m$s lllc laherdc pardo,hny lalùabl.lir. the i.Iornatior ùalrhe,a.ù prnde about L\ê tine laken !, ùrâk.cnain cdmûs, the nurbe. ,'r s' k pcople involFd md, or ftn,ocGsiors, the ùruarnmesol in. worldorce 'lhus {e m *e {hal ted ândvoner ofren $lrted doûlskl. cach oL\ei rheNomen Heivitr lom. q4qes (abour hd, thmtlicir mle coûerptrb h is cler rnât thc.lotliis or the ich i'KflFtrr.d n'any r.linemena aùd sûbd.1i6 ollinish $1rich 'night not berou in ùè.lothins oI ûe 1es amk r'{!.Éùeles, rhe i.Jonniûd' ihat sc on sther abour

5tu1rrq bnùiaÆ a,t tathùt!

r r . m l i J ! h n s

&rû'n gâ' mrl\ iû ihê r1ù cùnur!:

lhese f..ods alb.ir Iq xn ê\{rem.tv sedrhva rud lr oI jtffim}Ô;

{rri.h isrrh.r dnecd! r.rn.nito r!,eds ùtdr.rùlded rs\(iles o' rlrri(n iltmi..le su.li ir G.s us. o, ( o{. \lXere uprooridrc. {hcnrotu r.r

n c + i i a m r d h È f l ' ! È r u . ! { j q

i n r r r i , t u r d r r rh i ,câ ù{F.s dlFml\ trùde or rh. iFnedrrrsertrd vÎf. nm'. 't(si $trdr ùI ih.Dj n,t\nid.ir..Ihirh is ùriatrô Ltre hiio4,ol drrl--.loDfunt or nnj,r! md iailoriE nitG. ha!r rt {L 10 bc d?nookd .r ,irsctrfpd in ih. ù!

n i rn !ù f . r t unn

Sewing threadsrrs hr ar È |lro{, rhc s.ç a! thr.ùl in q.ki,l

n t , ! n I L \ , . ; n tu r i r \ ! r r ! \ . r t ? î , " . È i L d ù L d t L n r . , ,l m d , i , m \ r , . r r . , i , u , J n i i L i r u l P . { Lrdræoloeior è\muriô^. lt?És d dii]l rgcuM!. Î rf,fies ro'h lj(;N2 md na72 ù

Ilndotr ûost\ or d udernnined v.ld,rbtehbr.L,rieFdrobe Jt4rh.s.ocûrnrsê:;sNrh!rÉ. {dl} whcre onê rùht.xor( ro frrdrj,i! in..hi,{ {e q No 22r.Ii! 16,1A nd ts N,,24rj. Ha r70 a No 2{9,I is t32A). Elss{rre

. t r h ,a \ iF . rL , àn ! t i , i . u f t o t c . G + N o r . h . F q r 5 2 ) n d , , 1pfôoùrtnôr rtrebotubtêroa$unrrluLinnjo{

r,p cr ur \hi,Lrolie efô!r6 0f ill. lllh renrurr rLo\ rtitrr ljûetr dn fad uas N.d e\hsiv.nbrltqr ôsv,Lshopsn{,ptyi'rsrherouii{jlirddr,ins r oùrr [{ite iLcnx Natu,zt\ lj,Lenthr .iij \rf nsd r.tr soli 4 tiDeû ddjûjs rdsù.h oùcr doûr,(ic ireDD is tonr\ 'r,teridhÊda?lkins ir q2s nho Nrt lor qùiltiûs b.d.ô!,a!b and rLdfess$ sr!. mril)G linen ùibnridÊ,r of thc 13ih ïrl tlrh rên{ury snrs irj..nr{y (s.h!41e & xtirllt.FchrÈÈ,Èen lxj3fl, 301;7, û^ 112 l{l 141i, 15!7 lris) risril4rraùt (!rhnr.rd;,L 19i3. / 9. nôs r0i!10ir) lrù r'lielh.r dr n Lech i 4r ,l:yed a silT iriùDl.oh n l:Jj(lînlis lei c.ndtr ne tùolrrelLd sùppljed io dr. (;ed \firdtobc ir rrr1330s.\rberleùr2; ùd?std DertbrMumcnoto,,lr i.dir.,,ùlhi.knc$es.bûxtioi, rqf.iJ d rolor^ tn!dnfâll merjrlj{b.nrtu.Lrndotr ù ftA of toù qoni

"ho likp ihe

rrsfe is liH. dùrnnenh4 evid.fù. orcoroùseirq ùtreâd iû nrd lailEfgtând Iùw uNrn,.ononqzs.daiûl!DDùnc.ljrdrecrirr ùrtrfH{'ùr. ind 12! G{txs {ùljns irjrrjiDs

aarnmb. md Ior {ifing b.d nnÛA*s nnil.ô!.fleb (Nirol?slri6.33 1,3?,t!r.53): itco$:{l lil.d D.' lb ir thc lir3os P[ed.ùtoi dyptrdrîs GÈd lor thê {i.ks olrddles (Ly\oDs rsr2. ia:Blxrkley & H.rDd\$ 10i1. 91j) causiry rheq$lLry or u rili(iaL lishriit to iinpnr consde.abl! ffztuui l9$r. Lr)2-3)ll:irkoln r..ôurt , -"ords Lhe !trr.h6e or 6lb ôfcoton rhlÈrd ai l2d pd 1b lrom Alire sDice.(rlto t10L/102/13).r ihof c som.dcDc.1lùL ii ss trs.d in mnkin( .lo1hÈs lor Rjcl,trd ll

Silk rhfrdws trsn exk.snt! iù rrra.wirtx on(nrùdiordtiqaldothi.sinthcnnddleâg.s a pklire {hi.h h llkely rô haÈ been Iolloxîd by ùe ârisrocra r {'d rid' ù rhâft fan'jljt.s lr ili'1ûall! tln only sè\riu ntread to lims8i!èd rhê durp. mâerobic coûdi1io's lih on s \rderrnit !ir.s vo$oithcstkthreadsan rçô rl!, crch elcme teiig 7-Mhrtd ândtheispli.d L\replionsn'rhùil((jrdij,'!daFurlL rrun â lâr. lilth{cnhLr derÉsir ..d ah.mrd edllÈ oi {htrt çâs p'!bâbl} n ltil wheresirulelhÉltr]\oraosillk(rt us.d (\ol1r8 fiq

Silk nyêâd is tr*dIo, seu'sa hq15u'ûn;suNivirq riisDois ôr {ov. , Jk. ltu corNedth'.rd n bund on \ot l.16 rid 327. r'her Mriipcês ol tine silk lnl,bv re j{,iD{ tl by li, tr' oleni'dLi',( (Fis 1:!^). r1!ùy hdè the ser". msmort rùr.enFd {irh â ,}m join rhen tri(h vi$dnikries.Arlrisn iarJy.l.gdrl(.ofrîn.d,aNior I may bc n l.tr reD.ir ]id probâbly.oûEtumâlùingolr$rn'e .El\t{1,,n tr)_nne ùn,1ir rhnid is lsd ro, h.nmiry or edre{hipping the Èxt.nel.v rire silk Èns (i\os 33?-3lll, Iiss rj7. 6S, 121i). sjll rlLn!'l i\ Àkô un'd roril k qnl nj nq complere bu(onholes aid E?leGtiirsrlr ls 112 I16,t63).Iorseûtri'sD,rrdLic riu(ors 1Il$ !{1.113.]JJ. Xi2) i)rdlcoraNelorldit hins (1.i6 lit,, r1:) trM irr dero'rÙltbrakh,ndcdeestrulieddnedi!o't'lh.da.sol nc*, . anl Nr.s (Fiss ;^ u,]-C.135. l4ll. Û.

silk th eâd ùtr' als, Le lorûl ù! d ùFr $ff]

nlso lor bûoihôles hdrs. ând sems. Tlt FeFndr Ne orL)n niL.hirg rnons t6. L.ndon

u.urlly trscd fo' the rri,r serG. *h.nas th.n'ore c!{r\i!. silk rln.rd Nh prob.b\ rescmd Ior iisiblè ârd dP.ottu. stithLry llis

ldilâtntt:t hr1s

evide'ce helr^ i) t elâi" 'rLr.r..s to thc delusc oflincû md si[{ thrÈad oi !ùious strnncnlsin dr. Grc?t rvâ rbeiKord\tr1'hhhaflr.trd irj(rlr ù, iiùî'.i rr ithc fro lD ririr3. for in$ d..r yl 01 fi\t g/re* of grtd cloih vas rrÈsenled to a]keo Pr,ilir{r i)rh, I l:a{.r.Iôdriigih. Dakins or whi.h h r.quned llb ol linonthrêtrd rnd 3ozs oI silk thr ed. oo a Nnd bFtr br\is sill rhr.âd {rs onsid.mbly more.xpoxivcthmlitundtreid ll1êt;rcârrvâ rcber..ounriolrhel3l0sslrovll'arli,n trc{1ofi.trr^rl( ss rh ln Fr lb 12d. pcroz,10. e*ù0r,,{hereG silk thrprd .ost in rhe region or lis. illl0s.Ér1b I]resill Lrïd'a,ûnnllyourbFcdi. n cls Dcr.rs or ll.lid r.rchtrnu ùd vrsaLril,lrl. itr â $de rile 01ol,ù' \\rl,ii . Lla.k,

Éatedly rÈ.ined ùldF{ $îtr|d hâlr n*(d'cdth dlts oI the cliil's od ',tr1 D 5jlk5. alrhôuehor .r.asio r it is posrbI thrl ront.liit .ûlorE

Vre (;fr lld'hnr. a..ouDb nc.d b be exr nincd 1o cldJt rhf i{ùl.v or soods lile silkrlr.ads Ar Èesed oDly r lilrl(. \ Ltoùù âbôûI !ùl,r silk$m,.r bdorc thr nnddk oI rh! lrth(€1uiy, .lthoùgh .xtcnsiueseârrh has rtudù.ad aqmnliri d int,n.niù raadi"s dr.i,adiviti.s lxt r in thc l+th Dii i. rhe r5ù .êtrr!4(Dale l9rl2 { Lâce! 11ilr7). lre! !K illlai ir

b rids. liiqqes. h!*lr trtrd oth.r sn?il slk eoods.ùûo1rlne?d \b !'u!,l k, !\ rdrnriin

ihc riidlur rs.s  pmctirc ol con:ide uê trtriqd! .id oie {h'rh âppeâr ro h e bcetr m,rnxtonNoolrkiliiDalodi id l.r.lôr,an(lxlrinYô.k. dmDs th! l01h ùd rrlh rê lfier (I'f'tcl,rd 19st. 5s 9: \rr:Lltnr rlillqÀ. 103) rl'o! is

Nry r,niior lr wôlkl sdr ùd by Lhis ùne lireraDd si1l, rhiei(ls F'hl,lr Édu.i,'ar..l at

lr.sneû n,pf. c be 1i[le dotrbr. lùrtv f,r1L( rhe nse oI qil n ri'{ rhr.tul ùri $ili halrlr..i \ùl.nr.ad ù thl lo\ù dAses oI 5ociea{iM n is ùÈ lpr ol l1ned thd q?s Ned o, rhlrrll'rdtrry riiin's I'm, Hùjolsfs, Gre.nland, \'hich \rm .lùniùt.oùnui9 losrdditrl

o,nr li$ .Mnù,lcs or ù.ol thtuâd $ed lùrsil.hill! D,ùDo*s srnnr froni L.ndon lor LlùslaLrr medie!1] Fri, I.ltr(. *f i$u. i, d {iih

sl ui,ts b.tr|n6 otd taihniljl

rtrbby+o\dr .lorhs. indtrdins one rnrid, i cdtrtrql sirh {.i ri..d bxnds (No 28,).ltÈ akoinsened rlrouh dr. selv.dte oi a sill l\o 153)dd Lo iirrh â nGnedrry n,llorrwill(ldh {Nol5ri) lh. oll could hn. brn mcd rs r beh b(êqrilll- intry htrF lreù â ti.fo'{â$ening a dorli o,

Nlu ùrtlLds dd iL is JF$ible rhd dre rh@d\?s ùnârlled lron Llk nÉre.iâ]. ll'ooL rlrendri nlt ftqn vdÉr.d yà r (ht r knoqi as ft6rLrhrtd) orcrÈ o.ly o...sioù.lly ir tlie Cfetrrll:ùdtube âr.omLs wher irseems ro hôt beeLus.d solcly tu' .Dibroidc'r mohrs (NLcohs l!6.

Sewing tcchniqucs

l]rc o, isiml constuction or doth ire in md heDtruopc liom dinà] skjns no dotrbr brcushr âboul

rhnn {ere sr.duâlly ûùdified lonFe {irh clodrMltn from ruot, tinen, md. er ktLy. sir]lerrûiil.s. l h. r.p.'bnc or stitchcs trscd to join âD d

icJ Dn,ce$ ,i ï,dyi"! a li.lirt njrdij,Ls.scmiûg, hcmri.s rnd other hnÈhing lerh

con{n'diond i{ills in ùÈdidil.rd eùlJ" ùode, n Eùope. In the lollsring rlmcnlâry v{iu

h.rd.d È.hùl.iai il G ve4 llkely sôrp {it.hi"l{ns râriei orl bvlerlr,aùred se\rec. rrrl irr,smt bc.n Do$ibl. to idcnti$ thn hcdai.S.

FjoËrirx it,,jrjir iLh,'iqù. rrd sas !,âirùâr!exGnded in ùs me on \ovÈn 1èxlilès 10 .!,b.ù!su.h pmcricâl rennemcnt as henriry ldher

{ion ùi bdd!. bni& ôr fri"ses stir.hiit rlirame ro be ukd or n\ owo ro fieâre de(nrnt

a)æÀlirdxr8 or rlhippiry rru edses LoÊerher is rcomon k.hnique lor joiiiq r$ pi<"es oL nk

ltur \rheù the rie.es tre olFied ort, rid bêiiÊerommirâl oI Dh"io$ n,arer ial h n nnsl eisili

rnn be slrked silh thHD rld irr u,rr rrf rvo, .quisitc .ds.s r .oDht such r mdhod ofroin

edses a.c seiedges or vhere they dè boù

ù'oru rhe iridor rexilês ô.cr ir Nos 326 and3:i (Fq 12dA). T\o Dieres ol rrediùr'\tish{

gen',Àr with r hfiy côa6ê NÈpl:/ silk dlead.dors llt *lvedse otore ûece irrr folded.dsc of th. oth.c th! stirchi.c tr .otrsiienrly

n ' $ j ù g ' h s a i d i \ p l â y i } . ù . l t ' Ù d . l j i | Ânnène$ onhÉ.d ùd smllnè$ of$ir.h whi.h isappruFùre ro such a silk ând {hirh is de'roo

whât purlose these nigù'ed6 *fledr tl'ey {ftêFrlur\ r linin! olaaanN .,lrerly c(r(l{lIrom sonr .arljcr Ge. rre joi. epears n01 ro

is .n ùb1io6 qry oljoiiiu edtes ol r puFe orbq lor in{rk this is ânorher lossible i erDr.hrior

'lli. d n.dioD or thc stithing, .o trpicdwth $hd seeùs to bê a ;bftiis kmt ar dF l.Èh l side, susens d,d il\r$eriell oi norrisht to 1.fr, or lith thc &rk hcld in the bn hand.

ruL lrom leil 1o rish1. or lordiis the body.Anorhef roining lerhniqne Nhirh Jnry dene

I' oDi l.dh.r {.rkiia h drt or ,rrdrr., .decs.isai,' nrher le$ sathrtraola m $ôpr biilcsbe.N* li rftvirs 'ftn i\ a ,r o,r rh.n. rtutoldiry ol onc or boih edges rill briry sedae duih to thc join as in n'Fândjell seHns. Io.eunple. A s:ll rù! of lrarrtu îtum thc l?1ellrh ..rtr4/ {\os 2:lli and 2ilÈ2,12) dnpLaydnièn€ ol ov.napr.d *trtr\ rlthotrgh rll ù.iithing ùed\. p.cnntitr o.$'ilr litui,hav. loi si'rc disppcacd (fis 125). Itu pdF of sritchirg rrrês .oupltd NiL\ L\c diiibtr

thc scm thd xns med \Iilh ù.! Èx.eùior allLhese bzsmenb apper to be rhe rer Nolrhei)d nriiod ôr hôs.. rh.rc Jht {anN }.tr1d bcûos .onJonâùle: the doulrle sdthitrg e.htriqùcMUldenablerheserDt)ies{11,!{(df |i çi!.. or fta..xpo icnc.d insidc r shor or bool l1

i

seuiryhrhki|]4.d|.1fui10,,18

|f'!^|i|' IiÙ. hl! llh eltuE dc!o:i|r' 1c)ùu{6Fsha!( i m! [& b4^ nn$cd iLLlI

oie tirçnrit 1\ô 212)'jLh narch Dof. .r.qiy ùtrt4Dirr:. sê,ms 01 È9mrdotstrôrroDedro b.fi oD hôn..rd nlybe

âlrhough al ort$Dt ir Èimpô$iblÈ 10 hzri qhar rhis n, shl have beêi

]i{l{ Lhcno{ùdirloùlrormof {an isrl'r1\r'heF a Linc or {in rrir! nrs prxllcr girh rhÈ rr!.;tr edscs to be joincd. and I hxs r, be ,r\Lmed

$!!ld *em ljieD nd dr. li.i ud dampnes ofrhe h(mn Joi crcabd .o0dirions Nhùc tuf r.rshrinkâgc ol ù. .l{{1, look d?kr rh| rtrs edlesdo'rs die seâùs nox halr an ud,,ldin( aÈÊia.d,.e rhi..à has sussend iDiûlti.c' or ov.rsèsrc to crri.f r.s.m.rP6 b( in tâd ir Gsinpry ùat d,e soliru rhrtad rcmaimd ji rtâ.e{hird dù nrromding rtueads ôr rhe clothshÉrk the usualsrrlaD or rlkse se?ms È 17trri whik ûe srir.hês tre abotrl 3.m lo4 aMplac.d ai:r lntr' ldery s. The slirching hoÈsmd a$cined derressions i' thc dôin shos lluLâ tunlx D.ql'r hem sûrch ms rsd .long bothûw èdFs. f.rayi,a ms rtiu\ ninimised; ijnFrmore ûe clorh {o!td halr becD tull..t b.foreb.iu o'âd,,r(rurd inLo grùe$. . Èoces{hi.h.ho reduced Fayirr nr rHi Ne otâseirn oI this kind on L\e lior se.rions ot hos. is.rli.m.d by n4in.irs ,J hos oi l6dr+tus,oriein irud i,r dre cio eÙler ûn ..ni4 1l,;*irhiit ôi s,re or ùese larcr h-agnenr is slitLiitld ind. ilrhough onc cda. i\ ùsudly lolded rosive sûenÉn on L\e finer Mlled cldh qhiclr sùFccd.d bbby sd{r clolh hose. eseùblly rhê

ùd by rhe ddd1. 4cs too rl,is ws Lhe mo{trs neùod lorioinitrg te\riles Alrhough a ftdrber 0l sems ôr rliis ki $Rive aDio.s rhel,.don te*iles, thè lnchiru thr.ads hân âLToncompldcl! llis@!eâ' ed, leaing *tfdejincdsrirchiis holes liom this dkt, Dre n is tusibleiô rr,w rhd in Lhc m,jorin ùl rases aaiù r'e,,,nrsiâr, fts usnr i)r hot.liry ûc so edsesbaetnù (lir 116!Ù. ]n. siæ or ù njrdr vdesso'n.{hd. $ is 10 be expsb4 bur n È usuxly

Fia 126 sars j! ûrl Û l^) iuù'iieiil.b a'drR) bdlr ntul, L) s(dù oÈùcd n?r md r.iÂfor.(r

r.labd to d,. Jincnc$ aDd tl*ibiLi! oI rhe cloù;sli(hlengrhsof2lnnnhavebeenÉ&'ned23nnùej,'lùîÉl l)(lxil..lDitm{ot,ic.nmi"}tion or thc hol's rnd impre$ions bn b) ùè loisdi.hcs &ùld vtry Rll produce no'e exacr irloFrurjod abort tli. ssiry mcthods u{d.

A li.e or tumiiÊsdthes liÀ long lrsr d,.n!'al Jne(lrod othli,lj 'slmft t w,nsi,s rlnrxMhor . *n t i t rmmyNnDleso lsLn iY ing

rhos employed in sh.più sarmenc io fi. dose\to rhe hmli fom. or i" iiirri,is fru.iâli)jd\(â.nhorcs. ror .kmprc),zrr$1d $!!ld have been no'î âpproEùreaFis r2ôR) nln is rù.."âi" ùid.N. ol backsitched semÈ nmùnrs the lrndon re{ile lrrrDrcn{s,burrisDo$ibleLhmrhesèm\oabibù1

rher.oùiit rrrt dlfirt usê Addêd st.ngrl'wsgi\tnbrrtrf yuD\iruq{lLrhra,of artwôr ,unMFditch.s on erch side oI the semr.Nûrkcd drtuqh borh sean alloldre od ourerL!,r pddl.l çiih md closto thc san' (about 23Im).]]is held dF rtr'n allôwic6 ùidên'êatl'I|1r (Fis tl]ric). a l{hDiqr }hni' is llg, rou(l ir

Beùtrse rhe .ùr e,lges or vMû ral,rit 5 ùnrÙyiiay quib quic y as the rtsLlt ol liirioi, â duirber of stibhirs rcrhnjqùes nlve been d$tloDed

melhods oI overse\ri"t whet rridiôî is iot .o'lsidemble, or morc omliùldv. âl rl,r qls !fiI'fsann.,sinslc o.doubl.iolds ùms) oInnG.i.l Nhi.h lredy sr.rgihù drc cdse lrlrereNlod ry exlord ft! d$ 5 {n iivùirbl} sùfiaihcncd in somc ey, (rnrinly âr sùùèîr eùÈs it lslikely n\at in pa$.entuies ri* dtges sufrired

dred rtmy rùol hbrns less likely b iiryThe didence olLl'e lenjles îrer,lrrdo, $8

a.*s rhat on a Ldlù doth a siaL. hm xns

'ury 11Ln (ul,l h lrri {itn (\o\ ?35.231liq u7li, held wilh â nmniu$!r.h Clos 219?13 244 Fq D7B) ortoÈrirched aer', rhei!r,rs .(lig127c).nlcrintmcthodotrccaprotection io â ô{ edge rid is apprôprift b L\c hem ol

.de. morc mprblc oI ûkiry sonè stu$ .nd ir isind rnem $e prelercd

A sLeew lr@renlnotr' the dqr\j1d!;,F rlthc sc.oid qtrdrorthe l4th Énhq d lC/,hrs ,l 5im foldcd ba.t, held by b?.Lsûchiry ins i l k i h l2Ùnr fu ' ' | h . . . 1Â . ] f u ' î h . r s îIr@renG Nirh èdses ù!ârÈd in dris rny mr be$speded10h r &me lron sleses ?< wll No\

'v0gftr"j4u:ùldL|iLtrilE

n. - l rlÈ{* 11r

3r.rsl) lhcsxtri.nkrlLd drd har t,lnj tr$dû j ] l r h 0 d l e s o t l r 6 c ' ù ! . l D D l e : o l l ]rûn5or r ' . , , scorbù :nr iF : (Nu\1 ; .2 i1n ,ù .oore lik.lr ro b. r'nr,I o:e rha toD xdr d[irÉ, t iL r p n.!r,lrhjln atr itùln &qr{e Lo!... q c i v r r | a I 1 . h r l h j / i d t t r o r . lL " \ i h d . , l t i I t h , r n , ! n ô r i , -

{ildii4hr rr. rhùrt(\o23). rs Lûirrl

.ri'h .,roù rd L,&ds rrôii ., eîlv lrri{.trr"fdPpùi s.'r 0 h$r lr{n lr.fu $idr n,;rrrrifurie(i.ltr.i Lltre (Nor3r)). h:r! otLq! r'.nrlrrnh ro!êrhtrrorr rù,n.riie Drrrnr n,È sid...l$ qns rolded ba.k È{rnm xr.Lnidrd5 ]j'nir inft nrll.rdge 1ùt.ù.r.dgeqblho fôrrrri bârkrôidrpdr or?;ûn,sLrtLi;ûùrrxrsehenrnoq.,rerndrhnir.tr.d:_ri";,

r r.r îe only nro evDlrlt j r/dotrbt. rrèmsrtrê lold i'n0on.lttrlor dreoùr., ,irlrsn

rll *ool lrrsi,enN otr. ! tl ojliû rn tuD n ;

L . L r r ê t i n m r l ù l , l LtnD.0d rûrlhdnd.!ihliqf nid.abrhN$r.lins. lh frond trùl $ns.L.irtrtr tugcf'rqnr fr)r,bxbl!ioD rrr.h.ùùr manrk. i

- h h i r r L r r L l ! l r o v lr \ u r r i L r ) | l I h l L r L L h o r ' ,nnri. iLi s h ê k lb y tr. tu. i, s slirdrê\ iL xbor,fr'inrrir, crnxirnr/ h rhÈ Nr.(rrdoùbll

&iLkd (.rdlL rd jr is FsiN,. td ernf r[d {]ri:tras rhe cda. r,r a Lnilm! sarnrtrr n!lLr,rloft

x(NL rlr. ùr.d!e oJ sjtl,tl)rf n sô i!,.hnortrikêtrbia!.,od Lor,àyripidtf.Djarrnhre. r , l f d i l l i r h ! n n . . , m ô L L h r l [

rhr.&l (l.rgr rjlj. rrr tjs]

Anoùer lom of hqn ùnid,la'1y suitcd (o linesilks È thc .oled heû Ïlis is le$.orspi.uotrsd,aû the dotrble hem b demnlsnun.rkillandmr{'ltl d' n.rirr' âs it .anmt casLly be DiûFd iiobce belbrè *wii8 Thê lefr hrd '.11s rhe ravedge md hol.ts rl'À i| pla(.wl,ilsi ii h *itchcd b!rli. 'iaht hand. lnc te.hnique G lsd elcly onthe nie ttrsparcnt silk kils ol ÙÉ lare r{rhr.tr(q (ù"o\ 331, 33a, f_iss 61 129) xhere jl h.sprdcd mo{ efi.ieû âs xlll rs unobbusive. ]ïerollins md siiding - lùl {ljatoial h.m{Ûtchii! shicli vrps ikf tuoud thè tull isespc.ially fiieiy eae.trtcd, ùe tul1 beins le$ thâilmnr deqr u sirn aoDroxin,atcly 16 $.hÈspc. cm lne* heûs ùe clerly the Nork or Inigl'lr exÉie.ced r n,ill,d mrk.r and orbûna'r ro hav. b..i slfth.d rilh rhe ùderirl hcins.{âr tom dF sft4today il is Jnore usul rdthe mderial b lc h(td rh. othcr \ry romd.

Bindings and Êicings

lherea\id.of dorbl.hem$.sati"trpproÈiat tinÈhing lor ù edse. and pdi.uhny {h.rso'nc addilionâl irer!4li {rs .cquned, stt[ ofn rial .ould b. rpplied as rtr.lnss or bi.dùs\

È{r2e (a) RdÈi ù0 0r) ro

Àu strnivine facjo$ {Yl bindings de or a {ineh i j \ i k i n ' h ? j f i s l r g r à n ! t i h - t l f , \ ib $ n o \ r i u r n ù h l r , i u s c d r o r I i .

1l,rc. *dDkt of boMd edge\ str!i!., alltom lab l1th{ciùry .lcposi6. One 's . shonls!1l' orsilk .ibbon on rhe slishdy curd edB'otx fl@ent of rhn vnh eidir snail bunonhol!sli$ (:'lo 219) Th. tun.bon oI this rie.e r pu,,iq ltmaybelh.lokf edeeolaburùrdhoôd,rieÀaps a child s hood, f\ ih. bùttorholcs a.e ermll (3"n): o' it nq be rhe wi$ of a sleekcxiended ro .ors tr. bâct ol rhe hï 11'. fiLbon r$ held l,! slaùing hcm shthins ù bôrhskhs, bù mly one $ith c ndv pÉrntd avsnd .nnple (iro n6. Iis r,L1) È al ct erki'ùr rro dr lom. c{qe oJ. tBhdy brtonedslcoe whi.h e{êMcd over Fn ol the hïnl. sin'il:r io those pon.iyd i', mry cnicies and noiù,nùibl bmscs datins b the *cond hau of ther4rh .eiba (e.e. f-q r57).'rh ditd .n'Dlc isân umllrlrrl .v.nlv bldcd lenfih of silk ribbon155mr lots Clo 336). wlùrh has â n,c( N\ion orsàli Éshny{irïd sithiDs holes âloru ê,.hr dgc ând nq $dl h.\€ beei ùscd as a bindi',1 in'\i di rq:) dl'housh tul l-l rihLon.orûrÀ[peef<at{ \, b bmd thÈ.d!ê\nr n!.he\,ii.cludiq esrdes mdc tom leallH (Fjr 130)

Fc13, Ûeldine orr wl sh;d;ih a oal:wsilkàdiiNo50,3rMfromin r.g*,aonrdè

IVd lrastlgb ol c&d edEjruÊ vhicù wptubâ6ly r<k d ùrnhole edss iiÙ djn ùènsbEnêd âc@ (No ?3, F's l3l, md No 50, Ë'gr32, PlzB); ûÉy enê ftm the deæsit !j BC72dâdns 10 lùe sond quarLr of ùe 11ù ænnfy.In bdn insbne r 3Im ft,1d of the.d€d ho}len êdg! hâÊ b€en lned inwld dd ffiredùdr a 5mfrside st ip ol silt held ftrly in pl"æby!r! rmôf rinylrmiqg{rith* whi.à slishûyDûchft lhe !@r. outer $i@. The l()wedg€ olffih 6cing is âddirionalyûeld h p1æbysml slnbdhtrritch6, aD@inuleÙ3-1m

Èirddi4bdresendqurneloru'e14$e'!ry'

âlar Althowh in fad di æ a smi{ii.le, thetemid oI lhè slilchi'g on No 50 *m tô hen d€itftûrùâlûoslcompletecircleethatitw, nisleadingly, Esdbls â oflplerê n.ck

Fæin$ aËach.d 10 @ {ællfl edgB .15û ecu A cloùiûg lrasnot 0ro s?), p€.haDs ûêslbulierpdion ôIâ sledels ffilùniq h5t$!!Àrlel edges {itn incomplele retuins olhcin€somposêd olùm stip€ oflne silkAsinslê tufriq È 6rnly hemêd or @rs{lched lo the ùwedg€ olcloifi md belN lnis â n* oltny rming

Êat33 F4ê viil d&h.ing md hbld'GtrbddÛkeddi€dyonlod'eFftd$ing!ÈbbreiÀ Nd Â4;frtri 3 d@sii dnimb rhe snd

r42, PI ll

iir,es hold! rbe rrciDs lL r(t4r.s rdtlilioml. r ! r t s f , r ! ' h . ! s r Ln ' I I ! . ! rP

$ r (1 !o rh i sk i r . l . r l r ^ r .u , , t s r : r i r hmro {

- r h , P . r ' I . ' ô r t 1 r J r r ê r n r i i !f u r , '

r r i r i q i n , . i , \ -

r'e btrhorhoLc..r!c,,fi slelac ô,ri fNi û1 r,n1| Prr) di!.rdê( in ttr n(qd qùï rù or rhir rn rcen tû r ! l l , r t nd r { i e r { th r r ' ù } r s i ,i r.rhcbunùnhol.s Ji'r \t,ortv2 Lnrrùrnrrreds.ôarrn nestôpp'in!an(t niDu.o\!r.tji,kr o! d asj! Lc rni b! &r rnl iD ol'lrLse

r ihrê,. rLhcr bdù,thte iriF r slùL\irh ixbhq^etr edses. otu .of jlÈtr i trû1\o6i. fi{r35) âù,t,er [3gd]ê(r;n nirdL Lt.m . i l l ' 1 " n J ' ! o ! . l i ] ] . L ] L d ! L , r ! ? d

h d i r f r , - i r , ,

(No 159. Ii{ 1ri3) Ollre..ri lres drrrunùnbot.s la(r {rh I ffmn n

{ \nhsill. Lr\o ! ftr irrRdlorholê\\er. nûiùttf b:.k.d h r;cir!

ro sjlt ovfiJl nÉLrlrh.rins. xid I qtrire 3 trûirD.' ôJ'i!rc.srrj 5j!tu\DGsie lcs \05 ri3.2ri.2rA ?30 ?2r :rll;:17t.ti3 Fies ldr t70). hjûesr.ntr ife Drsii! ùcirg. tik rt,rsimlafhrb*!r si1.hù( !ô ltlnoi æntrinry drù

".;pùl,ir\ bokrhn (. coftotr rab.id îje ra.i.s!q,ill! .{tiil uclL bnffd rhe bùrorl,1ic d lh.rur, .dsp ro p.. d. nrÙxh ûn is ioû]l

. . p . n tq . . r f r r .L -n i . -Ù È f . l r cô i t ? { , \ , ; ,b.Jùn 1rrù rrDnùnhol.s r\ vrh rlF iê.L i

rensrh l,f rlLe imùàl!e. b.irrtj,nlniL.h|d i,ro

è

rfF '

rltÉ5 Butu\o]e etue n'rhh€d ûû3 hblerrmo si[< b:jd M*ed niù (]r bbleE No 670hù sidéd. from a depNit dâtja b L\è satrd

sdtv trhniq"6 ard totta.as

dati4bt[c$.oidquderofthcl4'heDfu]}isvë ùisin:xy liiish.r viji a àbrd soM dRa b

ody ù sdrcb hoks orrli d pre*ftn. t{) conprdê !iæ de 3:4. rB) dd (c) dedrs.s&te ? r

b Ùic lal( r4h .duryi (n) t! . ddc fals dÙrc

Fâstering m€thodsTlr.r,j{.r o4r,qr {,f hne is rnoq the rem.ninls oI $trmenb is ihât ol butons md burlonholes, ?lthoqh laciq ms âIno$ ceûùly

utr'ê ]re hrer ws a n'etl'od or coisidenblè ânrlrily, urrrmGty deriven nom ùe B ot skin

Fjgl4o4abaûretrwofcalàerimB.Âucha'p.cnut$drvdck'413?G75,stMary.schuch'

la.la*hilêL!êslê*sÙ€bunonêd10abmùeelbN (coimy Lib4, coûùdld Irsùhre da4æprcd[d by FmÈsio0 ol c?non M x lddgq)

Ell39Djqesho}ùghoyùeeF]dswæ

only on. .xmpl. ôf crlct hol.s ror la.i"s irpreseNd tunoru the rpiilp irds lror lnndon.Il,is G a {rip orjik larrby.lllsr sitk (No 329, Fq133) fom r d.posit of the lab 1,11\ c.ntury Îcnowf t cùmbrvsb ipÀ136 'm longmd lT

edses, ro one oI Nbi.h n lil .lla.hed a loldedleulh ol simila silk A conpmion sû ip ol silk

held in drce bji ruming silrchês ôn three eùesard br lvo l{I,ily !!ù{ l!tu5 or nnchjrs e&1ddiru thê tu[ le41h olrhe slriJ] 'lle qeld stiphæ six sî1et sdll inrac( senly placed ?2Imaod'.1ù.yÙc{ojkcdin@plys]]klhr€d.thc@'slithing or each hole beiis achi$rd by rro.oqiele cjcrils I'I buir'hole{ilch (Ft I39)Aner the ompletion oI ea.h eyelet the s.Nia

W

(B) n,h oârw. bbby wen silt

5,ùiaek,hli4hAardhiloàlg

F,grlr Debih or sr.de. No ù (ùo$ sids)

llrcad vi\ diricd trD th. back orthc xork to rhcncrt ryeb( hole. Asûficiendr'lois s.Ni'g L\reâdseems {o have b*r ui{l n, IDDL1. i[ sii ni.

vivins eyell,Ls ni. .Jclc6 show no sign oJ kir,nor indeed does rhe stip ibêtr âpper ro h*ebcen used or t{ered ûler redsi{,t. ttrr hccs orâ troôllù rabric rcmain tuud one elelet. I]]is

cont.mpo.a i[uùiûatioi s ônr depict lâciqvêry clcdy. S.me lomÙ efûsies 5ho* ih us.

srui's xthn4u6 atu taton^E

help æhiae the clo* tit bshid.ble io the niddlê oflh- r4dr.cnùry 0 { 140) SnùlÀ b.i"crolld bè DlÀ-"d n the \ide *:G rd rhis a in!;habd as sarys ine mjddle o1ùe 12rh cdrtr y inrhe wrchcsr PslÈr (wormld 19?3. pl 2t), +ihotrsh perhâps as a ridicrne of a hirly ns 6shion. wrisi ts{sings Mrq ol .dr6ê, also ofrenlaed. In rddirion, slip c@e^ oJ rich sillis lerèLled m. pillos aid .ùsliôis enablins theû r.

be quicldy rd easilv rerNd. An rlternarip *lutioû my he found in rhe prâcric. ofhordins nheneblshaûIsoJbft nsn,rcueh.relct\ùy ùêânsor a lae ât rhe hact Ge p. r72)

Tvo orhe. esnples oI radnss ryiù eydebhne been r€coded nnû ûediMt d.posib inltûslmdi otrc t on r pir ôll daiir,q to the la$ de€de of lhè 13th cntury at Souuimolon(c4wfoot 1e75, 335, m T2, tu 2n) ând lhe other

=

hbl.horn edsins on sreæ No e ftôû sder.

lturralllhGrLurydeù\ilhKognoouuo,Hull(tràlton fodhcoming) ln both of th.se the silk.lodr È siniltr to diar or $c r,ndon piece bur jn

ing {hd the êyelet \de @rkèd in linen. ln viNolùeN esp' exd uv ollacine ir is nolsùDrisiry

ddÈrs '!!d1one il [.tl1nd. .s 'ell .s oi theCon{inenr during rhe llth md l1lh cflûies(chNll.r li King 1eô0, 23i ̂ L.rDdcr & tsinski

rq$, ron &s 5r-3: cejte. rq61. 46, m 33. d 4e:19È9?, no irir) Here r

snrons @Der to hnve been inhù.èd inL

nonh Eumpca clothing dùi$ rhe f6t hrr orrhe 13th cenlùry 011ne 1973, 233. 273). rheorhey $ere vôn' d'ôr. ror onan'cntthrn ror pn|b..al pù.Fs6 'ftere seer s io oiher sood cxpldaljon for Lle My butunssi(lually nui{i({l in.liul,, ii{r aû q.cll.nt vehicle lor exhBsance, âs rI e prehrcd lâstening ar the . {k PeFnaF ûe chiel i',nû'.. *rs Lhc Àdopuon orbfton iineniç lor the wrist oDeii"gs orsbmsin plæe of dajly sriichiry or dr orÉri,,$ or drla.in3. By rh' €Ù y.an or Lhc 1{th .cnhq bûbns veE bêing r*d in incfeasing nmbeN as afishion reâtue. On the whole, rl'e erce*$ ôfthisrashjôù àr. mtoidcntamoqrhe rmrins oll4th

oJ a slede d'ro {il. Fils ]ar, 1a2, Pl 1), \.ith ib$.1r smâll clolh butt ns ùd butonholes. is aconsemdE 6rm olthe iEhioû lar ro.e Ùu!u'sare used up rl. optninathæ is fi.tly necesery.but thry do nor re.ch up b d'..lbow in L,re nnief demonshred by cddqryora.y .nid.s and

Stuits tuhn qn$ a ad to tta. \s

Ilmùsdiptiùbinnio6 (ee Fjc 1,!0). îD dhe.f?snenls of slff ed8ps ûom the sùê dem,irôr.43Èa0 preft à baer imber oabuÈ10nhô16,16 m de (No 34, Fts t3?) ùd 2s on theother (No 67, F( r35), *hjk tns s,r çr. deme bun ns by il,is dale tu be judsed lromo$er rd€nûE lNo 33, I's 143A) A buroÉdcdsins non the lare r,iùr cqro, ho@r oriÉinâIy hÀd 6 mJnr :s,16 llolh butrG n x sherholoriy 3l5m (No 2$, ris ra{).

wnns! oloue, ùey srêd the DncticA Durpos ôt ho dmg Nù edr+s rosèrheL rhe elin.ùàlt deoratih uûe oI bunons m ihê r4rhenbny h oideni in 0rc aDDucb to rhe orslruction oJthe edsesio bejoined in rhÈwy,ftee{æ to ùhich lhê hutons tàdselps rê âr-

F-,Ê14 Edse of Flrqt No 216. Mrh d rea*46doÛr bùibiq ftm Lrb L4r\{4ù4 Lotrdoi (À he

bched È n6elr a single fôld of.loth dd thesblks of ihe bûtuns are aûched nrûù\r ro thisrotd (Fi!s r4l 14,1. I47) one e&e, h;@r io

{hi.h very sftL[ butons ùc stiichcd has â si,,ghtotd onty 3Im $ide md hcre â sirk t.ing w.su*d only r?ccs of whhh tu* reû'ù (No 395,Flcl(3B) Oi i\e bùd.nnole side ol thc opcûinÂil'e edse or lbe clolh vas bn nw md, o!.e â silkt.ias had been applied ro rhc rûdcfnh, â ul,letwoÉn silk hraid ms {orted difedry .loû!l rhemw cdF, ajviry it â n.d bù bdery visibF nnish{hi.h $!uld oily ùe arpre.iiled by rhe ma' c. or

lcc146snd|hfuoho]ëwlktdjJ'silkd'fud

No 290 (bDrh side9 roû r dê@sir ùdq b ràe lar

leik: and clrtrirs

lhe 8ùtunt æd rhosc in cros.Fxjniry ro himor he. i.Iigs 135, 136, 1,!2, 163).

HoLs ind'.fonnof sriGd.igh(dglestod\êopcning dge

"€re .ur lor L\c butorhol.s ,,1,2

di.y xr ft rcrkd; ilÈ u$âl iodalro cùrtlF hùtes4rl rhey hdc b... {ork.d wii]l b onholesûches rner is no vkible $ iden.e ot r cirtrit orruninr*itch.s rôdd 0F hote 10 hoh ùc Mlâ'€rs togdhèr ud to scngihcD ilr wln{ibleoi sliG. îe uû*nbl_v bftônholes eminedhere a.c âr vorkcd ih a sltuu r{Gpl} {zti$ed, Splied) silk rhrè.d in butonholeiith{Fis 115) n'e d nedion in {hich iic silrhi',s wâs

oeletely der lodây 1k cai leel reNonablycftjn rhd th. more r.frr u,ifo'n rpproach tos*ing fthniqle. t uthr rd paskd or by m.ùsôl switrs snele books md. lârerl:/, prided È(books did not di$ in th. inkldl ies Somedirxriry mây bt $e rcsulr or hnhândednes jnrhe mrkc, s but it Day t qualrx be didenr tor âle$ sophi$ictrted s.ge in rhe solution ol d,.ski s ôf uiloÀ altr] semiresses somê of nreÙltodholes apFù to hrr bmi *o.kql h Iclo.kwisefishion, *hil$ itr orlF^ the dnecùor olihc srfthing is der!- adi{r€kwise. îe ssingthrcad rE caried ur rhe back or thc mfk rrôn,brrodhore lo bu(onhote Gft Fiss L16 1,16) mcvidinE simple, bû cLeùLy cr€rv. |nnedlon 1o

stûi,rt thrian5 and ttitaùE

0,e Rr e4qes niere G m didence of spc.ialtchniqu.si.rrqrsÙ'er rhe{e e{ pdof .heholes (ire loinG ât each od ôr thc n i) Ly .rose.dlial silchiry or by ùe addirior oI. plain o.rlorked thrcad baf ai ôm dr hdl, ends oI rÀe sliisùrh t{hniques {ere.en.inly in us b! Lhc 16diccûrur! *hq, d,e {.ess onen plâced o. bufronholes L) p.dded and tish.Jihnis lanJorrbledolhing mde su.h fei,rforcetuni imp.dirc(sc irnold 19i95.:r3 Jia13) hseensu[k 1ydD.such $Éir ws pln.ed trFn bftorhôI.\ ù, nrn

lne size or thc btriôtrhdle\ qries .onsider3bly. nrosc on kleûffable \dst oæ'iDÂs ôrsrco.s r. 7 r0o4 whiti orher as targe as ùl,!tr'û Nos 2r.272) ac pc'hâps rrur llt lenlqrse or r srmenr ]re bûoihole s[b lisbningthe hoodundù ,c.1,i,, clo21d Fiel70) der1'1m'long lr'e dèrrn ol the butorhohnn{.hiqc ûsuilry ûi sed abour I l.5rm nie nn.hes

pKked closly toce$er ro ronn . sotid bmd xs nno.malroday.lrifevDd{irches&utdbeusdon qùire loosely wùÉn doths, No 220lor.sr\,le*hre tlr b(onholes re only È7rn lorlg û,iqr.16), but presumabry strfii..d i). rltn prpose, inconbination *idi the 6re siI{ trci.es. on l4.r

nndres Gn appcâa bêii8

T1'is G on\ $e lnnd dchreold..l sne inwtu.h clor\ buroDs of À ]1rh{edtrfl daie havebeen loudr the other sirês tur H.rjôlrri.s,(i,eirùd (N.rru t124, fig 65), atrd \ie!*qrdijk, AnErertid, fte \dh.nands Ot,!$Cotr'isr932. lr4), Nhere ihey inchdê bunons y\tr ro thc

clothEfysnnibÎo No 64.The doth bLrtonsfmnrr,ndor fal i,r, a (ûrbe. ot soups rfr! a.Èsimply circles oI rr[Ju11.d cloth Daririded roaonwl.odenkddomes fte],çdèptubrblysârhered by one ol sR.ml rùm;,s{n.hes clorri 0re oftide edce dd rthd! s.lhered ùp ùnd..ncâdi (l.it r1?) The whole {m dren rreûgihêned by .on.enric riDss or sÙnher {rbbedyenielly rhrotrgh ,1dri.lliesses. 11 is posrbl.that at rhis n4. turdnr n,lj{lj1! nay hm benachiftd by ar addidoùatnrliry or sh.inkins J]'Gc.rs for soin, bu(ons (e s ûose on sle4e No61) rre inmen$ly compd. llrs. p,nic,i r bu!rD\ re 9mm 'n dineter ùd trre âû.hed b thcIolded diqoDxr sr.R. ôJiori,,s by a ?-3Im sblk

r.ôn, sjde bntuns toud ûi dF tde Llh<eÈ

20qtr nnd 35mn in diatr'eter Nos 2?5 223, 274,l.ic l{3) U',like rhe erlier, sâIêr exùndesihe* forh fla(ish butois md hak tu ùlirionâlnife ng inside rhcm The rarglsl oi rhe Foup(No 2?3, r'ig 1{.sR) iÈ) ù,1 hæ been used in dre

rigr4 Ùutom too  deroi' drdns b ùe ùkurh and+ (a) No 2r5 (R) No ,23 (eaù ûûrr

sme {ry I1 hâs ro sigi ôl $âb $itchi'rs bomfrani ro bâck, ând the sdhci, {l ( ldh t 1lù l,afk isioi .ôtrsolidftd as on the other burons. 16 llâfness âid .he çry th. upper sùtrce md edces âre

dÈc, Frhaps n.de irorn Mod or hori, lik. laturbutons ?ltermtntb il my \iqù ha{ lnn

Pre.isely hos cloth $?s MnipulâGd io nnkerhe sn,'[e( or lhe L,ùr" i\ ùr âli.{.in.. cl.rlncre È no posibiùly ol(oneri.liru the mdfti,lin ttùtc L\c sme Nây s ms done Ior ùe lfsr't'qics. bd..rblnly r û..dlc and silk thrtadoncemoreplayedtrvjûlrolcinlomirymdalrachiJisllrn.rj i ninn.s pi.R d tôih thc lrurron nd rhe lolded edsè, rhe silk dtreml eftidi"8beMpcn the fold ol ùe doth md linliiry one b(r,i t âiorl'cr (Fig 1,!.3,\). lncsc bùfrons æmosly 54m in dirùeter (3-,lnnn or Nô 393.rs 143ts) md are placed d ir[en,'l\ or çsnùi,

h.F beei ùê {ork oi a tughly skjled pe.en.nEy $ùld al!, ha{: airù.d lâirly noidù 6omthe eflec6 oJveâr.nd tè.r Nowoù er thererôfe$at the* edges wre remoFd and dj{Fld

Nlet l bunois ùadê fiom riq pùùer, htunzemd bn\\ haw i!, lûn n.o{r..I rion' l3ih

atrl l4hî'!ry dcposib iD r.ndon (lird !tÈiichdd D9! b!t, bJ'côrft$ to cbrn burors.none no{ renLù dkl,e(l r, dy ih' ôrdoLhng'llih is p.'lraps bc.aGc they lerè.nâ.r'.d in adifferetrt Mr ind.yd, shmts d rlre bftk or rtu

moved liom rrmet to !ûne* by r\e simpleexptdienr oI selling Lhe l,nrq, nùù rlùotrÂh â!o.k(rl t yt k i hol. and paising a lare do\û ,eba.k oI th! elelets aM dÏôush the shmk, â r{rr.niqùe sdl atrerei ir \trvivi"r .ldhi4 ôr th.16th ..ftry and by .arÙer visud è! eNe Indeed thÈ trny hak ben ùe pùpose oI rhe silkeyeleb (Fls r3s) orl {orkl .xLnritr {hy th.ysho! no ste$.lneJ non &isiôi L]kc bro(hesbeJore ùem, burors ir' the rarl' (,h,',\ l,.dri.

rhe Duke of Oneais had â set ol25 gold btr(o'\eâch qilh n dia'Dùl lnùrù d b:/ rôur pcarls(shniland 1930, 2l) r.d ù dtubr rr'esê {êre db.h.dtohisclolhingb!Ll'i\nerhùl 1l! rn{ôrbùiôB wôfl by th. tumalc rc.p.r ron ljdelll! lonb (Iri! l5?) and bt ll5lhm oI Harlleld€ig 173) wre DtulùL\ ltl!, nù( d ii rlik rxy.

Decoi?tive feât'res

Tetiles onei had pâftrns rc€n ùto rhem bû ir? ler iÈhce\ rlrn.de iidl.ârotrs or dcorxiivcb.hnLqùcs rpplied dler Edins as rtrt ôf L\c

sinslè .Dpddr dide'.. Jor saLhcring irud alone end ol x dam:Bd slrjr) or ùl,brM!.tr .loth{\o 72) Mod or rh! ùersins sqgsesb rhe rossibill!' or a brcâd bând ol Eslâr shll{ù!dh.r!, !.h âr Nas latc' odrcllcd by suJtcesliLhing Gmocki"g) Tliis f:emm( hse$rNirh seved o$er imll .elared rra!'n.ic. souldxppcar to h^r om. ûom â arhed ol sonekind, Nrhars d,e neck edse oI a.?pt or doâ]{ Ardher similm rierc or sdn.f.d cloth rus rccmRd fom a 151h{drui} deposit in oslo$heF dre.,lolh is a ?.r Ni[ an.l rhe s$]n's rhn*d$oôl (Kifllb.qle7e $ 103, Jis 7). Andher snDol clour tron lrndon has stitchins ed ioldiuevideme which \uald rd { iû&s o' idgcs(No 233, ! ig 149)i these rrq.in my be decû,rivcmrs oJ conbllnu tulne$. The* Frl'ers d.

rl

._:=_--

s?ui,e tuhttqu6 o4d tditr.ls

Frglre rhe eârhdêd ed3e or.3ùnù! No u 3.û h@ r4ùdra rddotr srre

recorded on pi{es oJ clorhins lrom ScandiDeja- Oslo, Beaetr âid Trdhein in NoMv0<jer&rs 1e79, 93, ro{i rjclberg 1982. 143-,t. î!3a; EerÊli 1933, 2221) md &'nla lrdose. S{e

d?n (Nô.kfl l!34, r9r 4), rhcre ihê, trle indr( Irm rhe !ùr b rhe l4rh cnûn€s ft*iatupleds,T 236rn widê, *ûr sdhhed od rheùdg side ol ùe srment siû wll rùnnins$ibhes whi.h hêld ûe plêab Derlrtr.rtly in

A qêriês olpmlrerftorfmuu sûkhe! jn\il{ 0rrëd ôn , Ery 6ne so n.n d^th ôlo r7LFis150):l.o nrsdrùden( or de! dlron ôraoGlruc!ûnâl b.iniqùeshich.motforrhe nrcrent b. explâincd. Thê 6qnùt, lioû a deposndarinsro d,e lîle t4rh cshry, js nôw in mùcrha,

JEheshs l }ùdNo |? | ' 6 f i âepo ï |dàd4

. d@n very smâl piees wiù lôrs hililg cûdsol silk ùrèrdi im r{m oJ sithiqs with ûtjngknob srive oi one tsqnent 21,1m x kN!*iLh loose ends son. 40'm loa 11lG nv hdeb.cn dcmrâiive sliLhi'rg oJ a darnins qpe Anexdde fiom rhe se.ord qudtr ôriiic l,fth cFrury siÈs a .Larcr imûe$ion oJ rhe decontivce{ed oJ ihis typê or srir.hing i.l,Io 3i. rig 151)

ek a Noolfl 2.1 l{iI is lincd {iLh a piece oI silkr,bby md th.y de held to!€ther ann Bs oJ

rmins stitches whicn lom a tiâns'ld pribrnA lqnenl o if slk (No 13ri, Fe 152) now

1,10Im x 135m, is plndred by a muliitude orsdrchins holes alrhoùlh iôl â si4lc stibh reùâi',s i',bcL llis mry h.ve bæi a dêcontik

vnn iilchiis ii silk or 1inc. threrd in a ddnitt$ibh formiry a linear geoneticâl desien. The$itcni,rs nÉy ùfle *Rd the prrti.s. or holdinglayers or 'naieri:i bgethei as in 'tuiltnlg, but the

{

{

lrh..ftq Loldon: (a) ud (B) Nô 36 (ûe rhe Eri ûe ù shouin( ) wiih ib wp horLond) !err

L

D r , l : , i 1 , r l . i r : i r , !

l l ' L

- f . ! r , , . L 1 i r n t l l

nir.hins holcs md rhe! .rrÈr. to havê bêenheûnned in pli.e.0ûe irip lft r dDn q'd illo

dhpraF cvid.ûre ol ftmyshrhes. ldh.rn for lioldins â ù.ù!4 div.lileorumerl ir rrft. T{, nrt,! or v.lv.i (Nô :r51fis 16) rko rppcr ro han bèèd $irched to trn

pcnsive embroi&rJ or tlie middh ascs $?s d'eprdoaârive oI lhe cl,uRl, ï n,yil .in i.. ii il('r.itr dri l.s snlrnt .itizr.s oJ l,ndon loùdrays to eilivên dr.n odre.vi* plâin rcollendorhirs Edli r (liir,bc ol dih book hav. dcD,onsrxtcd the d!.oûlire etre.rs vl'lch .otrld bêitrùdùrd into &oller clolhs oo lrr ltDt'nr4f,s .h.cks and mo(led effed - .nn {hi.hdid ùt ie.esri\' add crcrbiblly io the price.ConkniqLd,lsù ld b. mânipdatcd to prcduo r tudher decodliv! efed .rd d'is, courled*irh a litle ol rhe lorldnd'in! di{$sql il{rye,sÀ âl'nost.cnrinl! the onlr d.contiDn thd ûo$leode {ore silk.ords dd bÉids could â1so halr

j.\rlL.d brcorhes ârd s les ror tl'o+ whô.ôûld :fod surh luûies ,Ilre nedieql Grri es

derordivÈ {{hnnres indkabd in ûr. a.courb oJûe tuyal hor\el'old {s\^rilr{l 1930: sâùilâr.l

Cônstruction,I]re.e is nirl Frùch re.urarior rbotrl1r,e $ry in\tich dothLnc connndion dmlopcd dùins th.middle 4es l!ld! trtll+sahljshed rrireA on

vislal so!rc.s, hô? highlithÈd a Èilôriis reloh{ion iD {he de.â(re r}'riÈro, nwonirs rùeir

irisirg srrorixl efts.s G:vd 1963i Byd!rele) lr is highly û'liktlJ' iliâii È.lirl dh,r.rook der ir qtrr, a;hon dn.. bul nrlFr rhdexLenrar Dre$ue\ l,e\Fd b !,ed trD r pro.e${hich hrd b.en dolloping lor a .o.sidrrblc

shr!,'s of ù'êdiemlgrinpm is to be touid inDejrl,tr yilnrûtr rii.dry !nne\, r'owe!e4 at.lhoush the r-iden.e lrom both is b! no mcms

neslir::ible lte moi , eliable si,le(r rr m, ,lj

$ùviliu lmmpiu drms.hrs. Dany oI trhrhhaÊ beer exravai, d ;, lln. s(dnliùviâr .ourbi.s dùine the hi r00 y!ùs (Ndrlùd 19211Ihld 1930i ltiqg 1933! H{q l!r34r :,Jocken r135iR" r03?) l l'.s. arc supplc'ncntcd by doth'DeIror the roûrb; or rûlên, mbles and .hurhmer,Ior esmDle dre Fû\rnF Hquy rll ',d HotryIv,ryl l'lrllioorsNrbiaxtsplyùrdhedftl Gdnoj' (rvli,uerchrisri$ d,r re7:), rne !àslilimrqalr^',ilj d rln âb&r.rs saivadoraMhhr th. coNt.1 ùl Lis Iluels6. borh ii rhe pfôv

L{r,1!170:.rnn tu 11}33) aM cârgmd. d.llx:i.1. in \etuiâ. Jhl] (vi8aliaro r$3) nFevidence rôich llÉse gmmerls crr proljile h6.v.r to b. .xplorcd tulb or collrtcd wh ilst info.nurioi âbou. a nûmbêr ôl n.ent iinds is onlr jusr

ddirion. so Iir.s is knoNn rhde h.s beei ûôsudy in rôich rhe nmeme Droyidfll L,y elfrizbd .lorhi.g has rnn com@cd {ith thai or

TIF lder non û'ablx iltr nÎÈ.kalù pd,rnase.iated lirh chdes dc lrlois (liêd 136.1)(rms 1s52, 30. lù rvi \snon 1930, 106 pl3e)haf siDirâù mi bæn tuùy $udi.d for rh. inro.mliorrhey. orovidetrbôltappror.hêsrom'lstucrion or s$ri',s n,crr,ds, rnl ili\ ll*(.lx rhJthh !.uld add g.eatLy to où leq limited

L.ndon is lirushr wirh p.oble'ns md urcûûiiùes. Gnân ilems o Foes erneEe virh li(rledifii.trlS. but thcrc ùc quib a numbcr or ind'ud!,r pÈæs {hkh for rh rinc b.i'rn d.! âoude

be |ell nr pub[r.rio. .r .l.ler d.le Nheû â sreaterqmli(r- oI .omDrdne mderiaL has eJneEed k,

neùods ol slqiing clothiry i', the eùlylnsoùisi.xtcd ir modù.

hrms bû nstnheless efeclnt to rh! .otrempo'â4 e}t nh i n is hr rhaL there q2s atr

n,m body, troo rh 1;n, ,i rltr Nr(a, rrqùsiat L.æ1, slorÙ Froduced indcdn!! inleûrjveùse ol sôâi lere esendrly g?ometicâl sl'are\.

lorrr pd oLn runi ro dd (o thè r'lLt$ d thèhdn (|ie lul ln$ ûe'!.rd b.tu \bt of

llselhe.È i rhe sùne Tl]G app.oach ro djridi r y r kdnd ! o rddh uA \d l , l { dq t , l i r r r r

rhe ofrrs ol .irLes or qni{n É .onld b. e.ononnra[! delloled eLsern,e.e on rlie srne rloak

n'Lhg lerlnri$re., led ilself tl rhis !i{rù 5jû rrnâI., ù..cs coul.l carly bc join.d bgûhrr

dicLes (c,ùses. lor ini.r.È. or *d Lats) or dnF md qjnied as Jeroralive bunG. In hd mod oI

lorrheuseridreus,"or.lôrhhùiêdidrldôd,inllLliev re disanLed rùc ùu( laryerderes ttr!lml. Frm.n6) ûich ro c i0m1vd in thr tu

ù th! \r'hot th!* 6,FknL< lrom srnknLsp'avde .lues 'âner rnan complere { eme lor

n.diôrl ltr,rloi ny rh,À l4rh .eitury tr tr!tr'bêrolrrlhod\ ol.trllir! â srl{,irs.ldl,iD! e!irb.l o lrm in rhc pFccs of bûDc d6rtopcd

a,!$ kttr$) !{5 h (qni,ùr j, ' râsli idnbl.irc$ Ior {rLe æn!tri$ û .o'n.. Drii.lhny i'ru e, qtr mLs[nLs, nlu]L nrnrel! be.ù'e ù!silÈ|d ii som.ronnsoriûionrlcostunr.,\numbÛùithêl.trdotr'4jne$trcrcbtcdtoL\is

utd bl $ed d th. sides 01 the heels oI hos (ohclp slÉpt dr .rorh romd |ttr rûd ûrq 163). A

riors rllo nflive anoilj dF llrdor textllesr,4errirrar|[scdior\ n,av rtn rre ideûiied

ofr,our! ois r70)sorts sened ro prolide Iuùness.1 thè h!û btrlnot ùe Naisr 'lnesÉ .eqnncd buLky sems

lje r4dles,ry liqD\ii .r Rc72 (No\ 22+23r)sqse$ !'ch o o.isi lor rhenLllrs .nd problb1r come ilaù rùni's or suÉnmis

A Foùp oI rexrile rtm nsfromrlrelde lllh{ei-ruif .l.Nrir ai Rc7:r (iio :33) Â.trcialy di.Itrfget Die.et rron' dF a$onbl4.. s.pn' to b.

mân's dre$ (l',s 15t rh{ crn bc ronpred$ith .ofpleF ndi@l srin $ .raded 'ncfterlui (Fgr:64 Nonud r92r) ni.s.s.$di0eirn hnds dcmoDstd. thd rhe shuing oI

173

t

:

I

Stuiry tàiiq@ tîd Laibnns

gmdi.Nô233,somâ|'blllh

ûÉ156 (& làbrndaMllu soukgd ùtr{oniniis the sre-..sl nlm Henors.: crolmdlânôr r N'fhod) Îe mÙn pic.ê hdc â eorc

addidor ùeæ is a *acs ol sidc gofts. (B)Req$hllju's|'di4l'oYsuchad'esojght

complex than !i.1ori,l sorccs hre $ flr suss.sbd f rcm â omûiry vêry dishr frur rhesreat neni.!z1conùbarior\, d'e$ iùîhs $ûcm?de or ur io ciaht shap.d sdiôns, wi.h emesms on lhe shilhr snjn of dre fabn. md tl,eA on a pdirl biæ 'Ila j'lar4iosition ol biâs ddqûisht ftigcs{ould give nn ele$ntm@ncnr toihe smdt in {e4 {hi.h G 4idenl etr ii in.nLrrer come till .kins Rmcni cxcmlions in

strdo sem likcly to esâblish that d'À Jorm ol.onsh.don ws ljown in S{dleo i" rl'. *condquale. of rùe 13il' ..nrury at l.a( (Md8ar@Nmkcit pe.s.om) f is dism!-., srix N?i!ing consêmrion, iùd! anl É!on. q'ga.sb ûat

stu ht ht]ù i trtÆ un d tdah rE

I cùalLdiù, .I i rdjt\d rldhiqùnsbudioi

'r,L rtDfûN or rh. L.trdùr d.eJr r! ol ahnl rL.rhbb!,nn.rr qNrdr,ri!eLee:url! dDxlnkL tistrfp Thor sh .or\ I d k b'î{d dn y

!.r ..riLijrÉ\ rrlsl rrlk s1th \rld ud DnrlbNr ? i e " 1 h e ' v i ! n r L c d r r i r f . î r d r H r r i , N o f! ro \lirL lrneL âll i ,ùi,r,ldè \onr halr i ld,cdions of i |lr, orl,r{jL.r,iudûns !lo*rdsG linl! .èr n5 oJ 1lr. nxiF il)irirL( 'lÉrroL \. omr- apr.nûr. lr:ù,'s brotten Nry or

n$ l1'rm ydê) erhrLdolD d,c si.s nây bcn'.lt ' j,u \ | \elnrr' fulnâll' on. mjlht h.\t.xr,.nÈd 10 hDrLr b o .r rî' arro\{rfe. b in

rô. ! nrL Nr '.!!stmsr.ir!, r rt.iL n o rrrr!ûdorhooditrrlris mrr hre [èetr r mdhod or..otroùi \i,ao]Lrdr' of ûùr ûiiring pn.s ftôùi the roDs oJ![rLpnnrF s!ùtrll !] \rnn;Lf trd.tidroLr ser 1o\d rrdi.F lrtre! or ùrJ s.rotr.m.Frft roroD., r,ru sL eds. dir s..trE rôctrflP ir ù,!ive, inooih t .h rln LiF rrirodÉ 0,e onl! ûtr. rô ilnN ai! i li!-dion or

or \iD!tL, lrFi(t gdh.msâLotrsrh.!iDft f $dsr)dqc ti!11!) ^rJri(,rr.ak I rhLrH qpd scdm 'Il Dù<bl, blil l 'L |: a:Lit An'i]{ x.ù.551) | |DFe or ooÙ.hdri.lidlù r b.t rrilerielLh I rLdrilthxr ùtr b.

r \teDe. ituD ih. rôùh ot

Th! lonse! srJririr! r$ û rlr :knt Fmlmxsur.s ôrr(ùin (oilûr{L rr! ùLhds 6sirnnxnd;:]0nr') Th!o.igLinl.utinlr jatra, ii d,,rrhN FklsÈdiifi.trlhâ{.û]i,r.o\r trhhmoncdgcxhron di n.did,r4,ri,o Llkrabr ic[r ody otrc rntrie r]d*H dotsih. srDr 4]où rô ri aruLs rrr rik oax r*ùi rhr.ad: ii :I

dov lJ'e lengrh oi rhr P.lge rdhùr ùtrr inr iDhNn?ùd aÈ

p l ù : . h t o . u r \ o n r d l r c s k , t F m h a p o c r s r l[s? beer dI Lhi, rùngrltrf fônn i)undin odrùexralrt d i,..L,rrr lrn\\ î{ triÉ1Ly bsùdârëd vidi ûirisllr!orr: ir dr. skirr rô si{.turdiri0J i rLDr; I 11É beD Th. s.rnti.r!i.rdr.sses rt nu rr lnLùtrr : \i i.r .e,no. btr(FibJrr rcprsùI dr.h onie. shfpiig rrdatio x. nii\i 1.1b herrr trori.*bL i! ftrlitrnpri'ri.s( oIlhe lirr0s {h.r.Lôrrriq rd Dr I rrll!uDH,liqln Lob. trnklêd dosèl! ro r}r rorm

risr57 Joxn dc Liro( !!rpûi&o,hek,nhd

ônl! Lorly.,!droual, rôiù.fl irjt: unl br.\ksold,e Lde lrrb rnturl ifrliLÈdty shoq $onrtrrmingdos.ll Ji,,j,{lrksse\ rfie lr7l,dF .lô

nol indtrde delails oI sems to indniG mcdy

$€4thâia.hangeiidtEsiecesgr'v'achailewl'id, js exeqtijidl j,, 0êe lrqmed\ Inn

A sinele laqe pire tom â direreni grmeni(No7r I.k15s) is i" r coâNc. dark fcd bbbywid,

{nnr !ef( a }6 oriatraly dyed virh nr(kler'ftis incorpombs pù ofthc ncck md rmholc of

ûl a[ {m' xrd hm'idd d!e\ ]ir. b(n cù

.he$ ùe oI approxinu{ely slllsrj0lm (32

..:\

31ir!) ïF.(.rlir,nor ùÊ b.s oI thè na k l1e Dre*nt dêrrh ol{he trmhole is rolm The shqiing oI this bodi.e

shôs tl'e tuniliar shtrpp of a *ni ri@d trneit

rmioations and romb etuies (|js 15e)

!?ry lsv êsrdes ol heûs hd! bèd loddamong$ rhe t@err rd ir is 1ike1y ihai lirhxtll tull.d md..ials siql. or dotrbl. Jold hcDisrere not.s uùul or clorhins.s they.re rod.yOie lr@ent itutr' the hem oI a Frmenr ùr in acum (No J4 fis 1ri0t has r doublc rold of apprd

I'j\isiùlJi!I,}ô|n..1j,],'*jllfigiiàllydyd]virh mdde. $l|$ . nâleriâlreuld be imlined rolrây md iherelore {ould reqùne ùe ptuie.iion olâstcng|].ndld.rcdg.

croarr, rt,e hsnorwl,id\ F,ùaùry r,uchju(rrFoùd, rculd be subjed to a trir momt ol$rr

Ivideicelorrhe.!tolsleeFsisnâi ly.oùnnedro â sle* s{rion rero\rred rrcm a deFsi( ollhescond qu à1.. of thc 1.1th ccntury (r'is lri H r)

r

1{r,alduL- delsr ede 13 (tsùr 1 1lsdÂhtcutrNo6]''onidcposldniub{|(*tu^d quft! d rhe lrh æirry (:.c Figs !L !2io. derds d sÙrhùs do sie12

ÈBo.op

B[)g

ç

æ-=

FE2ÈnofabufuædFmd'No

*dshr L4) rine dtut'& *âre r? (detnrl), (B) phorô€iph, E .rê 3.1

I

Stutts brh"itr@ ad taibtus

Ir.L or, ùedirm reilht bLt em Nkned4m crouF o rd dd slxb lhrëJ\ 6rmmqcnT{q $i(h ùc oùtincLl in, thfLl cotor is;p. rur. rhehs e(+ ofthc q@E u m ihe

ffi :fi .1[ J15f :# j"'J,,]:ffiî*j,n: wjtli b s,f tur1n6s io thc leF Jn. bû Àoùy 4rm or ûe toqerlt€e suM!6 ii6 n.po$Dk b @j{' Ltrp shâpt ôr rie Dkr lee

H#t'ti.;ïi,1,.îix J:"Ëî:ïil"*:'Im' rê h â gùdût or à dodd ærh-r rc Dutujhdc eds€ i5 ref{y ft wfth r ûè

rj5rui:,1,i'i"i:tr i:.:iï{iî,i:.tî;.",iiffi:i"iJif *i:g 1i"ï"1,; R1ilil,iT.;tfi ",il*iii,ï:"Ji: a:.::ucK. ùd pre\'mb|l.odtinud !p ùc ùma5me erm :r |w.ê, ùd rhc I urh butrons rctu

fi:l: 1i.'ii"ir":,]"1iif,l:;fi Lïf,.;i,ir.rydsùLh i0l6cù be!s rmn^dMthc

lliii,fl'ff "5;; -' '''

"''n "* "' n"*

".ii#5f i,T'ffi i"1."i;;î,*6, ï'i,9ii: ilîilii:',8ili$]ïSlfl ,];sl,iiùmi ùe FrhiF Êom ùre ù" ùnÈ hiP ireo.ùo ?ve rtu inif,s rhn onhqB wiln ûelooFn doh d ûesù,nen,.lnrburcnnolEcLls.rs nêrt n6 a nmN sitk tâ.ins æ re À-a

''3i,îiiîTîf,ffii,ï:,fr i:Jf ?" iiimry or rim ù drum dMs

Ite ci\mL,sred,te:toiûdcnero.rhe uvdDas ( rùs m ûe mjd,Ie :s6 ùd rhe elidenemù ûê bdm brùlÉ Fnd" ù stu LJIG

;tih:tr,"i,;l,liiiiltr" ffi tii,i:1o me i 5qn'atu r È ù emi4enuv sû;elbnwy ù solr hq ltodr iumd rhe hmu rorm r;{e I B àhevma Jc8û, trd novjic dEÈ The

0r sn tùe{. Grlâif,jv ,|{,or\tus ff :Me

$$ï,f{1f,ffi*ii{"ffirdôi ofùe qmrihernrthc biÀ conrenermpr@r€r Md , e shnviq t@o,n s-i*. ,";

;1ff:àf s.i$#Ë';Tl}i-,#: ;t ;,*iwtÔIÙfu€probablymtêlÙrthcmwrusàl@r htr.br bod*riraru quslde. $ s)hh|lo

* "ï:t"fl ilïJ:'":'i ilf,H iXfl Ji"JïËfl iil"#ï,11,i:r.:ffi ïîî,f,i"l*:tr;:f,i*i,i:'Ti,:ti ï t."Jfi"lT "*,ior,tu, r,nd if, ùê mddL æs. r h,; bê-

L L - .

îùik a Ct1thias

susse$ed Llat biæ{û( leseâr cme inro u\e ùyrlre urh or 12ili ..ntury sir.c manu$ript illuminalions show diagonally stiped legRâr lirriis c1ok1r- io ùe conlour oI lhe les

f_ôr m.n Lhc hosc usurly *hnded to the ur;per rhish aid ws aû.hed by l:.es 1o a brechcloul, the !idle vhi.l, slôû.d tl,rcugh thc rop ofmd .s linen uderbree.hes. The* ii tlm wrctucked insidc Lhe hos Nldtrsnip( ilumiùlioD sIr{knrrr' rd.ar j$t such armngcmcnb (!ig165). dd cde6 âre en'etines repreFnbdholding hose in p1a.! below rhe kn* (Fiss 112.160. r]x, l.s .ov.fings or wom6 did not nornaly *tdd e higl' u thê lps. probâbly usuallyfeâ.ùiry orJy ro belo$ lhe koee a''l hâvii| b b.l'èld j', tilr.c by !:tun. Îrry rerc pEslfrblyshâped *.11y like nei s hose. bn ûùoû ùepointed upper edse. n is llkely lh.l mer tôo,{nn.tna vorc shoft. sock like ho* Indeed

vridio.s shûed byri. {xcs'l1]cre are mmy fi-Àsûentrry û{es or ho*fion l l1hrnbïy deposiN in rhê Ciry. sonie dù.readily ideùifiâbl. ùm oth.^. it is lilely thatthere qs no ûilorn aNroæh ro constùdiondd this âdds b $e difictrldes oI idè ijli'Ê il].orisi,s or snalLr 6@.nb tsâsicrlt a stip oItue b s clorh es ntted mrnd ttu Ès n on ùighio anlie. Pd ol (his slrjp 'njsht.ôtrij.u. d.r theinsbp and/ordoM the sides oIùe ùLles, ând besuDdemented by addiiionâl s{rions io beL)shaDe ùe fld clolh ni'.d di. rooi. ̂A'otrp ormllprc*md sedions oI hose lrom rhe lâre l4thldtury deposit ai BC72 is of mêdim Eishr kbl)y@n cl,,lh dy.d wiLh DEddcr (No 235, Fiss167À 163A).'ftey ùe p.n'ars rmmnb or â pânof sùofr so.Flike ho*.]r'e t{o largrr picces

\

-1:-rl']'

:rl-l

t l

f !

- ;

fl

;\.*\

â

A. :

\! i l! h.t ntqn6d1 d trttarnE

cdsc of d,. ho{. â s igr(-rord ho.rorlât hemGh has been bùlil.hed Nith ba.L$itch.ri

dr ! lh rres this hem is 230nnn, à srdl triêJ!tremeût qhich sqg.sb dDt diis liôR rÈ! LalebelonÂcd to a sli'n pêcotr. !.nlaDs i yolq g

nro$ thal iie sedion.olerdq rhe lront ol the toot Ms atuh.d d rlrcenrE md had âddiùoDal piê.es at d,e sides. TlÈco,srrdiorrl.l.r.ir\(u(ai,,ed irll'esertulrq'neùts de l)N.l md help b idcnrib rd snarl.flieres The back sem of dre hosê {À jôired by

rhar rhe sêâm r[o*ai.e or !â.h pier es hcld iDoltu. br rr,x rDDirs{nd$, hrken bo ûc

consolidaling â sem dôês nor aruear ro hdè

irdge non rhe e! ênce olthe bndon I.nil.s ji

rLrkÊd rlo hÀ bof, I trrlo ûncr ri.r !d r1qsul

)

Ë

133

Fd167 lA rd 6ûLDi*5 orhÆ tsomlâL !È6b4 d.NiE (a) No 23a (B) No â6. rO ùdCD) No23Z (É) Nt23escler3

les 6iddt id the wsred 22 l{iu 6_d vhidr

vnsæ in rh€ me 16tbænh!y ùÉ ttteshirids is ')ud b nê lirùraly ùibrh, cleqty0l i m rlæ b olinùe mooùry (m ùeiFteD, wltrfltêd b, bimsulF €ddÊ beItr ûê ilfu ,nd *,trh à eL uÀdoedt G'@169), rhe Ey fasrnmbry didæ or thê I41henù4 ho* tom tlndm ffi rô lndi€b th.lL\is co+ùdiônâl r€tugmt had mi Éi bsddiBed. Sose 14ih*ntuy 6'a8'Mb dmm'#ie tlE &ltjnudion of vEdssh.!€d æclio${È rhe ânlle€ dd heel (€!. Nc A6 ed 2t7,Êrs 16?8 ud c), vbild otnæ, rêsnbÛns Erv

dÉ, hdv*r, alpea on ùe sm or fte dftsâsided fiûl aud Mâ4ûetâ h uppcaiacqlhedÉl swdd (Geij* d

"r |q35, Dl 23a),

v$ich is Y@ousb sibed b dÉ \!ù d 15lhcentny, i! rtis intucè the mdrodliek6 lonesLn strs b li.14 snknti*ntuixùqf. d-@r.d Êm cite cil+ €artiû ùlÉÈtûfiùd 6yd mpùbrished, dnibit tne sm béàlièt olùê bæk w, ,ifioq! rhe stthiis holâ de

\- -l

rtc$s-. d

lc,x9â-4q

'i,

,44

S tu ikg tatnaa 6 and tailùns

F--"-=<__-=_z/ B

bsid bnsuès, a!ç.rto hæ cdMd t]]e inspDd nbnt of the fo.t (e.s NG 237 dd 44, Frs167D ùd E) r& rlr€dy dissd (s p153) lhe*æ Fd on tlË trrt e.lims - ærlt!ê Màlods eæh N €dse ôd àcrnft r sEons sootn6nish - âl)@ to b. @lir b Lhb me dùdùsltl]j€.q. Itd ftre pDb€bly FtÉl vù]}rid! d ûis rift. dd orâl d dûori@l sedicldnd tn 'gialion rftn hô* nl8lMls n ybeealâined æ str@gdHiiE d i6 dd he.ls (Ê'c163). ûênrs!æs to ùemew md.êDlæed.Æl Llre ho* 6-à!ffi15 s br 'trsd*d 6'omtlth€ù rflton de Mde 6_on talbr clod,nlhûùo w6iedloûshedtf illThelarhr1yp€

of clodr ofhE nùch llæ e|elicity ard sEùgihmd hâd h€@m th€ pr&nêd natèrjal t/ hos

'I!e lrte 14drcûry de!ôdt ât BC72 yi€lded addrsed nlt àlnost complete hodd Olû 216, F'sYO, Iw in si! ri@s. It È ôl mdm wighrlabhy{l}mdôrh ÊLjnedaddrllm6h.bld\trhÈh h.s rct bM leâtêd ir dves. Th€ MLrged LâllenF ùe had seclidq èæh LLrnæinsnâd â IârlE ffu€r€hap€d ts@ torn æâyfoD thetoot€dge. ftiseùesùom m didmê6r â hd ard e â 6ttD includi{ lh. h.m reyhft bêdcu!i*q;û sai$€tuÛobethewlirft the l*r nek edse. lxhâ i nê*hâsbè6a.ni@d '1 this êdæ by the insrlion or Fo lri.âruulû æcrim Gùsts) â! eæh .'de, nwàlyheld rhê êm ThG 6m ôf slf$lion istmMftû 8en]æEied hoods ddine lothè

J

uih centq moe nol.bl.v ùo froû' cfêêtrlrM,nû{ in the Naùoml ùl|*NL or Dsnù*k..oFrha.n (Nrnund

Thenu! i e.eni'Lgilrtr drih. hoôd h drsqu..cc ofbûhonhoLes ùd4 rhe.hii n'e rêùaiN or nin. bltonholes are p.escFed rl-

inlr de nù\ nnssins. *l'ilê die *.r.h.d otraidedge ol rhe bututrholes F$m,nny nn,lbdfiom tosion on the btrhon s.lkr du.i't rear'ftÈ

!?c ol clo*lt liriry hood is tliral or the

Ndi0( ilhûii[iùrs dd {ùlptu,l fisuFs (FigLiL).Irksrcrnrrnin]!LyvoDH'd .uùi.u.d

tE2

Eé172 Frnolhoodrih &ipits Nor4Emhelindb4 Lddù: (a) Iqut ù.6n:nqpi@ii.ldes pd orùe h€cker4 sdè rx (E)

h q in Èrying gùi*s ûdl çr[ irio ùe 161ùæntûy. thù€ ft tu edv siûilâr hô.ds hèèded silh brttoN âmDg the '€miN of 14llÈædiycroriingn'onScrdi@ia, bûtpfrotthe

tu 'ttrrêd tm r dèlosit daliDs !o 41400 inDord€lû th€ Neduiads (sùù? voÈCdis m m). ftis nood, *'ftich 6 3h.ibrv ûâdê trm. bble.M cloûù oridmnytad ât l€lt 17 bùtloG dd. Iikê t5è hord û_oml'do, hæ a slit 6r â gù.sêl let inlo dE lftredlÊ âilhe snÈ orlhe nek ùel@ rhe eæ.

In lndo4lhæ æ als i_asnol: ormthêrbutt@ed lmod nûde fid a LbùyffiD cloù ofr€niM wigll 0'ro %4. tr6 6ubulhùhdls

êû,"1

saù18 htt,ti$16 ûtd hran'E

, r , , r ru t t - : ! : : t r j l l . -

i , , . l i * t ; e L r a r - r r i o n

a:.))

ift'ï+iil,ffiirqfuii$$#

*[* l*n+irfi[,*ù."}d*ùr-l;l'ffi-;ui*ililr;;rt)if:illi:iii: #$ï;ri

*"

i

:/

iîLl:1"1.:H1l-îf ':1Ï:".1;,Ï:,":'*.ii'" l i , . iHT tl, ' . , ,- '*., " *, -"

ù . , l , l i r l r û r

:îilT ljr;,**,:l;Ïr'l;*l lijry'LHl+l *'* i:

. 132135 @t n( utdt Èrhù,

centtries. oûly a ir vhuâl $ù.!s.ecord thetrchniqF in {he lSth siury, vh.i ii Nas uscd bdc.o'at n,c h.N oi knuhb' râbârds ôr ii!+cirN runks Ii kems (o h e blossrled i' tl'.larr cqiury. ùding irto usc Jo. all edFs oIÉ.rment and, !Fnr!.j\, lFadr.r, as \Ell æ foro'lmentrl hoNe ùqryrs nr'v pùdantomÀin s wcr knNn rs d:qgês. Dèrorârioi of L\hkind. m eftæcrt md mseft'l ishion wlljclrdemonsraled the r.ict or.otrsDicuo's .onsmp

oi. su.h dar No 70, fiq 177) Iron rhe deDosir datiit b d'c se.and qùder oI lhe llrh ren.rùry is oI i lell [,ll(i liaht bmrî rabby a r;mmloq oak 1ed \nh . .uived upre. edge srsge*

. " " . - .

. . : ,. " ; "

orner Gxtile Lasùri j,' rli. sân'.Iâb l4th{cfttury dcposii at lrc72 se6s ro hNe had L\js e*perieice It À hoptd rhd orher excailims tÈyyield si'nilar Dar.rial which !il1clari! the p,trNse ând orisiial rorn ofi]'is item

Dâgg€ssin.. mcdiMl clolh v.s ond well tulled indeeddelibenbly heâvny Ju[ed 10 exd e (j". on

iq or bindù{ Thus lrN up Lhe pmcdce oi .u!ring doih iJio srqFs as orrr'ncihl cdacs oraDDliotioDs ûe l4th.dturl dæosi6 at Ec?2.0ardculJy d* ol ûe 1âre 11ù .ent,ry. liiftyielde{l a ùnb.r ol iûtcrc$iq clndes ol rhissinple rd de.oôrive techniqùê {hi.h {:s ro beelabomred consnlerably i! ihe il'n! qtr.edirÂ

ie..:q-4

hFadoscDa.nhl inûenùsbr+'niùrle çhoMm ihr vLnùx11! rortsDoru! knl, rfr4 ,,rF l!a,d lll! so( rriLlLam or Hrdrdd 1l is l7s). noriû York rliNFr Th. daqsr rofts rlom â sotrp

rrL! ongLDatirg tro rhee.rrxniû{Th. N'rl lom oI dqF h ùl r rllr!ëitrry

irip or nLÈritLllirli rêsrrlI dhsùtrtrlnih do{reâ.h:nle Tr\a lr qr {,. rrL a,1,0o\jl ur L.

r[m \r,1. Cio:i. iria ii$) ]luhaFr nrslmLld! sLirs q).onùarely 10nn d..p. .ûroinûrbd ."âln:]n xr ide,rnL ln l5-lrhrl

I

thcse re shoM h maN{ript illumiidions. pariLuldly haing dom liom rl'e edse\ ot sr'onihqido. ùrrs of liom aboE L\. clbow on shotighl sleles. lhe) rle appca Ltoùr{h pmbablynrher L{er rhm rhisd$ùsir, as d.ùdlv. dditions to honc rappinrs A jûrher lroup ofdagsês toù L\e lâie in ren(q are narrcrcruid *c.ofNrdcd vi(h .cnft!v.nicâl s.âmsoros 2,Iea5r, rl! ,. Ûese presrnEbly dcGonshie the {onorical ùs oI oldei .e(rcl.d

An i(d in this late ]1th{etrtùry âs*mblge olrexdles which, ii (he ilÈ{'( rf any d'or. lik.ly

e ra@(trcl'tud ',ùadù.*ed€ ttrpuscltrùj.!|lcgc' cin'br]dF Nls 61, rt)

'fhq nay v.[ h$. bccn cû iiom m old FnsLGrcups ol stjrch holes otr eâ.h saip sùase{ ùalommrenrs, proùâùly 'ud. f.ôi' i'cr,l, F r ônc.tuch.d b them Gee lin $0).

The m,ln outc!- nrm ùnrempnry comneÈraloA resddj',s dr.s {cris to hâv. com. in thcmiddte decdes ol dre lalli .enûry, p€rhaps æL\c frshiomble *ce$e\ or rl,e .ich rtr.kl do{irl,frrsh di. social $ale, mntodly thrtaEniqq tobe.one lbiqritors Daqses wre renânly a dÈlincrive ugn ic*.lôih buide cr.rscasilycrcabd Êon d old sdùeit trid hû.ê d atu,ctirc md albinable fNhiû, lower i!' 1l( \!:ial

D.ses ton' d'e lât l,(lRntu) deposir ârBC72 re, ryilh ok ex.q)rjôù. .ôislr d.d in ù.

rhe eaiiû l4rhrennry

mednm eilhr iâbby. appafcndy drd {iLh{oad, {ere Ùearèd lron 6nnm sidê *ips.utoiùe shighr ol rhe Fah (No 2{R. F,s l3l) 'nx i:trc l4cr $th slib rTIm dæp at inhnrls oI50.55nn. Slii.h lôLs susse$ Lte po$ibtry olmelal o'É',eiivLndlgh rliis h trôr so c.'bin asin L\e ealie. emDlès. Oûnûrmùl strirs like

i i

i l

/

it'

Seùi"s tuù'"iqa dd tailarins

l À N o 2 5 , o h d o m D h { d e 1 1 ù e d d q d e

ê*olanâtion is curmrLv hterprebd as ùêiqs d'r€rd s n dassei is ôlâ ffne lutled rich b'lmdo$ O{o 252. FiÊ133A). It nN r*ûblesaheadIê$ bird æd ould hæ .one 6d â 3tip oICe{6 like No 2,13. Ir 6 àlde in h:vins :hod J[oI '6 êda6 *rlloFd or pinlêd prsunàblysnipp€d rirh shûs or s.isds. wielher thÈreùesft m idle doodling o m ulrddJ disâded sEp or È the ôn\ didoæ ror Lhe ûô*elabonlt dæmdw dæeq b nN diffelt to &

ss. the piee wuld æûùlY hæ fluûsed atttnctjrelv in a breze. Aroûer i'4ûent 0Io 253.F,slAB), now6rfron.ompleb, looks âs Lholsilii nay als be , disdded !êndat l€f dug$liom a !-mnlor lenile ac{jNry. It app€ds tohaE sore edles ineniiooâly ot inlo salopsdd tû h@ r dry sætion oltoL'rer leafâtta.hedThis d4æ ffis to be pdlidi{tv aldD ro dÉdt le.f.ljle ede6 dêDi.Fd ôn sâlûls in hm}Kipr ilûinàbN ùd monmdbl €ffiEd

ù

-\I']I.]NI)IX

The dyes

LL rlia |roressorM cl\Ihilinsolth. Ii rirNiLl !iIi Èiol trr.lfill I \e .h lor dFs iû i !n lscl.t{l srùple or t rtLhs iôùi nai:.'frr I \k:dr' f^L rine thal nôdeû le.hniqLLri of rlt-!.

lninrd tdilpr $riirh rc g.tr.'inr nrolrrd6on' {.r inlirololiralsiLes nF \dr or {hctrrÈtol krm rzs ofg .d siai Jjtrr! I .*bli!hrs rr,d smdl xù)ùn of (!! cm br dd.d..l Isuch rin(h, ù.û iloDlh rlre oiginar.olôùr lù5fided3ndbpe, lrnnpd b! i[. r]r oli oa{riNanrhrùir.ldirs. h:11 t5drrh.13rèrlitesin diÈorliûinrry dud! Di!{11 k) (uk n dek.ùbl.

ofa ra,{ù srr or rlrd: Mtr1d b. lnnrr\rtrileo@r drÈ trexl lilr raF rLnrn r .,oDtrr \re' !

r.{( bv Lhe tsriorrprr ùnt{li:indudd uDpl$ scrsr..l ar ii lrrrdhe.Lhnb.ùus.rrrè!Éùin.d vlslblÈ rolo li 11rn?. lioqly,r lr$ri,n.M\alrirnrjLeforrlrlofkrùt !uDl!:\..rsed {o York .i. dr'îrrlùr Qtrnn ùû df.m !ses. usingrlt È.hniqnesd.,rloDù|)" P",ftsôr$il'irirs ÎLùrksïrdu.rôhiùro.pnridirtdÈûilsorhÈsyrbûi.Io, Jrsi!.rocN làrlôrrorhisadâpbrionôrîh.ls iolmcdro.lr til tii,Lo, rrHi). dnr h \nrk alhâeologicrt Tn,n ror ùlprdiiior ùl hboniox râr lirl \

ny ihe end or rnc {trdr'. i, r9rr. I rolat of 351ftdi(?LsanDl.\ râD, irr(or sire! lld bêê.*uimd trr.r (r! mntysÈ had b.ùmi rnn,ty.nirri{,!r r!rr otunepdonhei'nÈlicdi0n of

Method of er.traction ândidentification

T],.p,!rd!f proilreexlrdioD oi.rr-.\ |i$l)esld.{rirrd ir lr{.il eLsë}h.fe (T.ylor 1983:[':l(or 1!n98 r98.1r]0) r. ri l .,r lniLl rDpLd Lr,elerlircisr.aiêdi,,r!tuncsohDti'rôr111

Lû.rn l d!ès Nhirh û? ]r..tr {rrlqtdiedlr-r,ilr'Jihe (e.g \$d,j,rdiÂoù lthù Dumlt)nÉsûnphsrh.ùrnlr'rl I u rd plus:l.oholr,ùtrk {rii.h\ritLremolldrc{h.lrlL.rtbeetraDoli d rFrr|t ibrehâsb(tr 0rtedd vdr lrFhLùo.danitna.Ldù ktnr. L,uit\oûdatrd!\î oI Lhr ldl$ d!e! tu! 01ths sor r)

nc $o rir[id Nrds ni . nùrnrr Ffi'ld .trdddtbp.d aùd ù{ cianird {irh rin rniolarY/rrn r,re lredtuphôrô'rpÈr 1nn Dadri,rdrùsncrsmrhof huq lirlr' È$iurhouÂhrh.vnDrei!âbsôrrrP.l d ditlertni\x!d.r(rhi rÉ:Fcrortdirrry !4hs Dr{ d'd be compft.dùrh Lhoy oJ kmM dJ(\tr,r\ 'f[is oneûFryi,le.mimncdiaÈ eùiô.ùionorih..txs,'r

ro, tunriù i omntioion ri' ililtld&nr

r {' rÈ usd i" crl ôr}ù,r4,h! Srqnes ôrdF,rye er-âd rc sroned on b lninr:r-., clinlmaio$ aLr,! rr&\ lllen rhe plâi. ii qF led inx smr rnoun( or sorv.trr irr$r!q{ liLtùeepalo,! r|t plâre. rakjns Drdr ot lhe dy. {irh irsi.c diff(.tri lD\nrerLs tr-rltl d dif.èi!sDeods the.hromdogmm. of( r,ùù, {{ unlùvtlDd, rill shoN spos d erling inrn2h:ons {hr prxt rrir ! !!G i iùLe Lhe coNti.@n5 or rhe d}?r for .x.nptr. alLzari'r Ànl 0ccuin. ilr inj! (ûuonrnls ot d)-êF ù.dder?,1,I?i,d,'d{L ma!b.i.lÙLiJ |l ;! lhislay

Resultsar dln-ribûr.I rôrâl Lr35r vnDl$ ftpr.sê i.slirns tdr 3ll i'edilvrl iexnl.s nd I iql rordr. [{ôn (]9! ioDles) kf. fûd 8!;tji ihcr.mrid{ ftr' smaLlgrôrp. rrù, aUS73,Slt71.]i.ii. DL:K77 fRr73, IryDl]l. S\1^S1 aùlIAVUI3. \ron.ur. fûr deDo{s dared ro theL.l Lh rdur). rllho\qh ih.i . àf. lnrJl nmb.is

fron dre urh. l3rh nn.t l;rh cedtrrit\ 'r,. t x

rile\ v'\t, {l d. indi.abd in thc roncordân.! Aù pl.tc ù{ oJ rhe .êsrlb is $ofed in ùe IlLrsêùm or lnndor ù(l,i{. atrl .ôri.s n'a! bc,iiijù.d or qritcn applicdiod to tr'e .cr.hn€

OI rhe 3sr eriù s, 220 (l;ii!i) svc positnr .esdb lne dre proved ro b. 'nâdde'r kermes.mad/indiso. li.,ien rqile. ï,d { .ùÂ. ol r,.llo$ ;rlLnliq {.ld a tnbtilt identin..don olbzilrco.t. ind i $nal1 nmber oi dlts, mâinlyJ'êllo{s or browns

!y iù the moi lalmon dye !6 nad,lertrôich wi\ !n a'i i" {5$ or thc $3rH0 Fo(pæd û?% ofthe l.1e 14dEênto4 sroùp lrom ECzn,ere $se no 12ù. o. r3rh+duo .rrmpl.s of{rr dy., bri it 'cp'Nnted :igr oI rhe llth tontd l5th.ènrrry sDrphs nlm ùe olher siles.r\]t[in va\ Fevd j,' all in. nÉddc' smDlcscxani0 cd by chreûd{râDhy This indi.ates ùardre dys {âs ,moi ceiâirly LùD rlr' .ôôLs ordyc nùdd.r,tu6,n rtd,r,, L..dher thùi rlrenabr lild m.ddû R ,,4n', r . or my ol $erfirish bedstaw d!ts. rll ,i llii.h liM' b.cr{D}' io Iack my dct(ùble dtdid flâr'10r1933

vadder is a ersijl( dJ.. usuâlly urd ir. amfm bricL.cd. dùo,uh it cai also pmduccDeach yellow,violei,bremn raD Ir i5r!,ùvdro L,oon dld .olorN such as gne.s and blues,md .m gûe r soldeù ton. b the yclos or$rld.lnsd.n .ases (five lrom 8C72. o, ( Irqn R\1)31 aMo( tffm srrwil) t6. dF hd bèer .odÙi'Fdxnh bhè tu !h€ pûp1. or bla.k! in ùr€ sillistom BCT2 ir hrl b{ r .ôin imd $th a rdlN,and ii â Nool cloth etu m.ddeHlyed L\rcâds ind,e selredse had been ædyed !jrl, yellt$, iôloflî d' .ràia. or bFM s.hrdge st'pe ii a

It r probâble thar 1lÉ riar. R iddd,, alrhoqh nôi rdiv. io thG comty. h beeû iitcduced beJore dF Norma .onque$ a.d wasbeiry cdrn?red h rlit ^.Âlûsdotr Friod (rràlron 1989 100). r1'tLtu.hiers, trade ôr d}tn in'nadder {de residenl al lvin.hene. ii n{r(Bi,ldl(.1976.13È32) md theF de rè.ords olmaddd bliu sro{n in dr Bcve e.v reâ in l33l(Hebdirrh 1946. lLIs). whil.l.Fslation or dr..ùly 1,1ù ccntury lorbâde the expoiî of df dye(!HD. 51È7) By ùe $û cmrùry. tuldjlioùl

suDoli.s lrrc beins b.ouht h tôù dr r.{Cluiti.s, {hù e mande Fo$n'! wA r} l,(nt'.arÈ.irljrj (S rær.' 11141 11110) Both the rlrkiad York iesc shoùêd that dr. proporùons oI Ll'ebvo najor.l.€ .onu{{ù5,,Jra, h and NDriD.rii.dù'sid.nbly6omsm e !, s.i'rle. Nhi.h!rof.$or llhirnq (ook b indi.aF | rtuc of

althoush th| po$ibilir)that thc mrthod ol dyeirs ùa.v ax.r tht i?iio is

Kenk\ 'inh.' ' d dr!. rzs ddctd in lèn oldic b.tcr quliN Nool rtrbrics toù Bc72 ând ind}.c ol dre t3rh. nl rlrlL{ drr r.bby {.v.n\iù, rrun s\llvrt and cus73 Kermès G dern?dÈom rhe kennês shilld louse ,(.,,6 ,"',;rrl(Plrrh.) Tq a Nl.di'.trri.an itrs.t lhich{:s imoodcd inlo this .ùun!-y ùider n\. nme olsai', IGfmcs vas *pensive bû nN{ h ûr..1 rofthe rich qlrl.r {hich ir sm. It xas âN:!s r$Gciabd sith ûnk and lias b.d loùd in snere(lesianicnl l,ùial\,'rrh t'.disxl Eriod 0!îl

A thtd fêd dla {hth 4h1 be erFdql ti d'r1I* Foe or itrdiml t.iil.s È bruilvood, obbincd from the hetrs.od oJ ùes oI rheCzd&ri, &nily.'n,is dyf a ons rô hâ!. bc.nimpù1erl i'iô r:u'oo. i.m at leÀl the l.re l?th.cnhq ûrtuiÈllo l9?3 13È31,137), bn( there Nonly one renklire {'jriùri âmonsthcdilcssâmpr.d ii.D r.ndon (No t1). Ir c also rrc 'rorhft *caBted ttaùLs. allhoLqh il his l,(n .tr.onnre.ed j! larl{ ùnlr.rr h tcxlilcs srivùgabor sroud (HùI! de Cs:f & RocL'Js l9t632,31) itmây be rhd LlÉdle{lqu\{nsir dt

A puplê dye derived Èom h.hens was lound nlasi1lmd?hâlf sllkill,iGrfrmlat ]4th{nhryllMotr (Nos ii.l0.5l) Thh dye hÀ pnrcuslybeei identiiicd in a sm l Nmrrf 'i lf,-Nonnriæd medievaLLexliles. sr.'ily ri$,ôd qualiçOrrlôr ?È $îton Leril lt). ûe dn n.! be ôLùined nor tr nùmb.f ordllerenr lihens, soft orrvhich can rie loûnlr:ûslmd and s.othnd. Su.h L.hens aDrer ûr thr13di{êtrrù4 Ôa/d,4ù.a 'l li/trt46 unl.rrh,"!inp'rr.ôrk(sfitkc1852,7,1 80,31i1.ândisla.mN lere inDôned fom Non:r in the l11h.enlq il{ok 1966. 2:2)rroin .Nl..tr Nlcdiremneu [.heN. trob3blyslFcies or ,RarÙd 5d 1,.dtuÆ begar t' ntded ?s r ll{trein'. inonopôl! uDdcr thc nmre

ororchi1rd.d1300{Kok1966.2s2 3).Therlor.*il.s tum Rc?2,on.îrËbry lryed nea.Lheifpltrce ofriâillâdure rrt nod hkclv to,.0'.{riex \rrer of the norenLlne or.hil

indiaobn. ùc bruc .orôn derikd trom \aadaM indisd oic rvo lDnrs re rs yer indistiiÊlhh.ble). \.s rue rmons th. D,.dio.alI!rdon l*riLes.l{ ocoù s in onry 16 entrrdes. t.ssthan 5$ oith. roàl rùinb., mxri\!,&nrcntvm.ntioied i'r tide doctrmenb of th. Frlo.llJFy rnlo) (lrd n mishr be exp{rcd i,r tr rtrrgernurbe. of t frlcs rrr .xoramriû ùEy rt rrûNeak dycinss rih {ôtrd hde âid de dillicdr rod.bd :rr.r rd*irtr, r,ûirr Ptunkds. poprlârlight blle .lorhs. mrch paL.. thxD u uc a nlLlÉs (Srl7mân l9?3 210) har pefh,È re

Y.nN md bro*i dyes ârÈ even ùtrc difiicuttiô Ji,rl r, ,lnr,aq,rogirat srmptes. as rllr r.naskÈd by su'ining tom Ih..a'diDiarir jûwl'idr thq have ben buied Tn..s ôr a lello\dy. vo c JouM in 1r saûrrr.s. tr, nùD Ec72 rnlone no,n sxa9l a retd ely ne{ iechniquc,I'i(l'Pnsnrc InN chtumâros4hy (HpL.).s.s âprled by thc l]risrol tcam ro s. ôf ih !r'lros rrom Bc72 (r c r liriis rù; .orn) md

id.itiii.d, I!Èolir 0h,s k.emDlercl rnd qtrù.iriiir No2r0 nllt{colùaloneinNo251 Ltrrlolinhlhemuconsiitucntof{.l.l.fmn'J?Âr'&J{,]dL (dùoùsh lùrcori| is ,rso fouid .ombined Niths.nÀbi,, i,, dy, ints frun dyeis seenyeed, L:s,:!, rrddn L ); L.empierol and qucritin sragf.i1r,c D.esence ol an âddiùonâldyc in No 2r0. ffilhadbc.nFsibrctoaoDrydn ni\iriltFdù,iqueor Hpr ro â grcaÈr ft,nber ol qmples, m:nymô'r !-.llo* nlr {ll hre been.terecred mdidêtrdôed Ar my i.re, the prcscni !.rk rirnuM ùiar yello{ dyes refe r ùsc and, oi oc.}sion. ombin.d wiih kù,r/;dj!o rq sfrn (one

dcJinirc .vrilit.) or wiih Q(rder lor ora4e, sold

Tw dyes $e.e ye11oN on .arætioi bur behôtd i. a simirù mùmri) inu, N, whirh sçgeis rhâr ii,r wfe browi o. blft* s h.D appti.db0n Jil'f 1],erarùndre bdki nu6troak gdls arc notorioûn! diilicûli i, \!mdennn nat'r:lly o(urins ûùiis a.quir4l dùi.cbu' ial. and ih. du$tr ided iiei mav well norrcprc*r hÈ he nmrbcr of bmq n/rrra.k k xijle\ NaNDlly p(ùenrd ftol (b.own/grey/blrk)Izs ako nôb.I. ovdx{ryirh nrdde' in

\1l, tr ri on lexlites a.e diùdcd a..odiit rù Îbrt, rhc silks shm a nishrry lririrq(in,se or dyes nom d'c mol rabri.s Rêds aFrFii.oDnof .rrryxow\a{rrqtesrebeGffrpf.s.nFd tln ir the ùlol tniL.s. 1lrr. lasnw, rsr{crnmbùolm'deniifieddy6iû rherilks.rcrlcdiisthcnDrof..irli.ori!j,,

In inn4. drc dlc ii dF rexriles shN aR4te\ and blues dr

prcscnr i" rndl n,mbers:nd rlso ycllo{s ddbn)wds ï lossibly bla.kr.iûs rh! 37!i in {hi.rr no dr-. }a\ rlde.red. 11 ÈDoss,ble, ol côùfê. that drese qrrt orieinau!

w{d or ok oirhe }t[o{ dycs, or êvei Nirh !ord.Rehnrmcnb to ,. amlyliar srnem re sriltbeing d{cloped and iÎ is lo$ible thar in th. tutur.iln ùulle^ olnegdive rcsdb x bê!i,, toÙe reduced Mcandril. th. $irr has already'LenoninGd ind rh. ri.h. {ann ronÈs ol nuddcrm.c Don{ ri. no{ nn,rârcototr' s }on in

Concordance

' lhÀ chaptr lirb âI dr ùo,lnf.d i&ms dG.!rad r this l,q,r mdù rhe sir,"s il $hi.h rrtvutr'ri.Mbd dtrl æfu|di.c 10 d,ie aM ribfe/

rvhere ar i(t' .onsist 0l mofr bxn o( k *lil,, rh. sN dalosuc nud)er js xsigntd 10er.l, côtrioonerl

'n us É'1 or a b NoNd sar mcn(q hi.h i\.li il.D r $ooll.n cloû !o!.n i,r 2 I fiillliDcd riLh . I :l si[ aDd rarll rlons the butonhôlls \irh a {ri ôr bbby ro'et sill È lin,,lr.n ù cc imÈ\ ùnlc' ùe satrr rùr,lr.. (No159) r'ith m Ale.isk 'ria..d r.n io ir et.h nme

î,e e!*âr.d dliles he been râ1n t'rù.dând sor.d by sit . sû rhd ur n, LlT.c itcm! ofi',irrndion â;t rt'rui cd b iddtri8 a pierc: thrJh d, (8172. CUSt3. erc. alqL h thc sitehedi g), dre rr.l,ii,rai.dr .,,&i ,r,ù.r tLnsquart brd k.b) md die dd6,, ,/,nkr ('iânoltu btuckes: 3 .o.linùotrs ! . u.n.r ot lui'brts uiotrewirrjit.â.h sitr.

a" /Liiibi,r Dnnbêr is lised fo. ih. i.xtilcsfionr I]CT) ttre p et\ T slFiitics t trHnLcane aror r d.lrsit ddins ro ù. s-"ond qùdnror tlrc l.uh .eitury, fB ris,ili( s ihat r textLcim nom r dqlsir ttth latr l4Ùi .41tr'r., \hi elenil(s with ihe prefix ixx re (ni4Fmrrlith'|!. the x indicdj'L( thai drv $ere .ôrsntd d 1l{ lr irÀh i\l$eûirdr.sc nsDrre6 d.us..l in th| MOLS trrùive calahgù

T|ê Roma, trr(oâls Dlâccd imreditrtclv bètuelll ù.1[co14nal.ôrtcxi numr,q urr.' srccode aUS73 ' epresed 1l( ir.n.h nmbèr ôJ thcùnGxL Îil,l.. ris atrd I'l .Pfercnces ùe i)râlrl.s/illÈt.dodsnrùisl,ookrRmEn meûltullo{ins ù* retun n..s idcnliti6 diP Solededcn!lo4. iD !ùich . Iull desiorior d dn $tmcD be Jùurd li,É11y. \rlkn ,1)_. b{itrg h.s r. keipLla thi\i\j i! abd d the dnl oi rhe ÉLeqù

Ba)ndd s casd€ (8c72)tJock ùonsr uclio.. s..o rd qur.cr Uth

\B:\o!l-la3ltllhâ\.thcNh.Èolùsi.rlùnGxr

ttttrttdihj 2 t Lailk tz.ttn ynj <Fijr: rp!5 lib12

5 < 3 l i j i ' , 9 ' s ! ' / l d } T A s l l b L ! 2 r . q

||nd 6tltâ: 2 t tritt: arnal ,)i)ùnq)

r! : '7!! 1aÈ aiù l!i .rs6/r+, raFi.li :!rrs rals llrL! 3. Fi81iÀls ]rrlrL r.{! IÀÙlr 3r! < È.i5l1ûù ]r\tr1 Tarts i. ligs

. . 5 j i ' / l j 6 ! r ! $ 1 ] | 1 c Ja i1n7!!f, r r? 1rri.32 . 1 3 : j / ] 0 l l A i h b c ] d r t s i i,3 <11:3/13: ra61Ù hbtsr

,t .rs/û îÆm rnbll3 Fig

,s <sr,/4 r^si Txbl.3

r <a*1$: 1?0. d]! c{cd2 <a211LL> 1{3. riq 116

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t\tt!tnjta: 2 2 ttilk tTaltn !dn1)

] 9 r 1 ! ù ] / 1 > T r \ 9 ' r n d e r l e : )

4 {0/d: ns.

llLt'l Lait: 2 2ntitt: tt iuds|nttn:t)

tttûtteita 2 2 ttit: ls.jlr Jtnt)

ttùattùiLa: i 3 tuitts lz :ùû )ah,

tubd fti16: 3 3 tûilt tùth lntund bdntl tz srtn

r9 .rtto/i> ârd.3656/i0; Tni?. Tibrc

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60 rrsril]:ri rd35i T,Lr,Lô

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s ]iril2r: rÆs. I ((tq.d

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l?? <3656/10D TA%7, t drrtscdr:3 <k4lâ T,c259,n9d L drEdd[4 sr7/!7> ',01r79, r,

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126 41âlrs 1-'3s. I, dFtrd.1n zÆ6/&> .ilclo tm 4656/!/10ù T42.1t L dÉ1e*dl29 35r?/trÈa0d4656/$ TA24X Iru 4s11/xz- 14242, \r31 <35rl125 T424, r.

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'6? .342V1D TA?,Frsr36, dltÈd.

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Êgn .u ,dFb td '13e <49o9/b @, ng74 vn, dye

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leik: a"d Clthirg

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lkntuMæfrs.n olbn tsa6s '1â !00 'Tab le12 'Fa l21 'ra6 45rÈ î{{03, lable 12r,t7 <{09r/b TA10r, Tablelr1,13 <{091/b rÀÆ, }blê r2l,le <{0e3/&> -ra{84 rrblè r2.

1to <4@Vô 1{!06,'iàbleÉ, dFbded.6 <a003/D î44m, TabÈ 13.rs2 <1063/2è TÀ,1038. T:blel3, drt

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r51 I33! <re07r lrru, tur

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!/.nlbnild 2.ltuiur (bt d4nniislr57 1150t aonnm> '13167, 'râbrê3.É nsol <310r/l7> T3165, râbro3

.1s9 11501<3?3.1/È cnFsla, drd.d.

VbôLttdil* 2.I teilts (S.ta,Nft)160 IDI <r330/rô T!16& F819.

Wd taliks 22 û.nls O4at ran)'r5e ll50l aaalL TE8, Fs2r,t6û161 l?el 4L ,11133.s, t$l d7a> rtsrs7, !_a2ï dF

i; jn . rj5i: rP,s

rltit x!;t\: 2 2 nùu\ ûrù.d :taùnÈ)i'n td .r01$/r> 1x6r riN.l$i lri,l .-r3rl!,

hrt t rit.: 3 t \tilk tz:to vnt )riù .riil. .:!e/5s

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lt rltùtt : tubbi.: t7n\r yh )

r i l l r i t . r d r ! TD | r \ rÈn (i r L ; r l i r . r T L b . f L -ri tsl

l i n ) . L r ! Ù , , r j j r j r . r . dli:l -Ljii- 1Bl]1 rrLÈi. ôe

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s l ! ( 1 / iF R i L ! j ! r \l i i r . . r r , rN r i n i i , .

L : i r . r i r / t ! rN r r ( . ! ! . r rq iL:i'1 i,!i s iil fir:n!i r l < r1+ . rû l r rLqud \ ! r ! { rj i . r !>dû rn . : i i a , r r : r n ll] .?iùr/r0. rû, d\e Èn.dl$ . l|rm- ûL oe rnii]

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l r : : r ! TL r . F j \ rÉ r ; i . d r

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,i,il

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rÀ nill :!40/|, rLri riltrriI:e ?!i .174!/1: ù:! rjD.ôN! lir .F,/i. rrr: ùbr.b

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f, {\l .ar!rs,!6: rBz?i. hùci

rn lir <!0ili/3! rB1j2. rlLct r L t l r i û ! , 1 i : TL r3B r i r . d

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r$ L r r j r r / l b : r3 j ! s . t r ù f6ut i l iî1r31, ù!0. Ta1,L6

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Û6 lrll ir!o,lri.. rBr:j rdirâ

206

2{3 lr5{l .r,101/44> T3,U3,244 Irfii .3641141> tu2Â.2{5 Lrrot 4231/lD 1871.?46 t55l <1&5/D TB3e,Fle170.?,!7 I5t <@5/111> ',rB7s.24 l33l 4!0/b T320, ù-s13r. dF

?4e 11501 <4011/e ma !'€1324.dF

2u l1sl <adr/r$> æ22. fig

51 lssl ?37ç rR!s, risl8zc.252 l55l <rffi/rb r€2.1, Farla{2s3 I39t <{099/?4> 1Bæ, !igr83R2s l79l <l!30/6 Ts52, d,€Èeéd

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l33l <r!07/r/D lBr0, Pr8,{ r.

lasl 4e{D.r5> 1B21û I, dyêÈÈ'r

r33l <r0e3/6 182f4 L ôr

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lal <!s07lD 'IBt92, nlrÀ Iusl <3100/$ TB1e6, nllB, Ll33t <3eoe.r.|> æ?14 dr@d?d.

,56 tlrl r0tr/s m260,,56 t79t d5r9/& rÈ1q,,si usot <{0!/"è nn,à$ tr50l 3bn/D r3r$,?r€ lltol 4r34ls 13254.,ro t&i <36'r/sè 13253%1 tsrt <2e4elr6' m252.262 t$t .re02lû' rB2sl.263 t$l .qrzlfi- lBr$,2ô1 1331 <4033ÆE @53,?6s 1?91 <?slg/E 18263,?66 {1501 .a0ri/u' ,1851,

n6 l?el <174e/1> T1tq.

3D Fsol <3{01/l$ Bre, fig

3r3 U50l 46{r/2ù ',IBr3r.Fq4t û31,1 lr50l <4n/6È TBr3za !13

3$ Irsl 4011/6è

316 t1s0l 434/b 1Ds63. Frl3,\ dyê

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re lel <,!099/6> TB55?, ,r,riê8.

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ln I'iol 41,tr,!

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lrsl :$rÈ hbÈ ù. Fts r30lr50l <{16 ûss. r'.}r. r4ts/11 a3!> î5e. 'r blc !sot <4012> 1!5ô?. 1àbk 11. fis

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w,l bniks 22 ttill ("tital s,i,ni'rÙ

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Nam MÉîryûlaa, bnidjas 12134 <r35>. lrb! r, rjs r?0.ff lzrel <2115> ràue 12, ri.10a4,

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ttl hnik : rottia t*ttn rûnt

t."rr tutrib t.U, l7':nnn Jan)+13 !251 ilù. llr ee

l2tlr{.ntùrY fill ôf robber r.n.h

Public Cl@sing D€Polktc 12th âùd edly lllth{entury'nrmcs

LLlc 13rh{en1ùr 'atcftont (leÙrcDl

nhat LnilA 2 I llitk bnidd :lnù,u)

wrlbntâ 2 2 lr'itk tz:lnn vâ )

116 ez6rl aiL r,Ù|l s

lLi 4t:l .r! mtrr irîti.dLrt Lnr:l .fu. r:sl !r' drerstdrr! ilrnil rùr

11r Lro i rtjÉ

rr n3n <Ls5

E,f ly 151h{e.lrtr-ai }zterlrorL rd.lne

vhtttttit!: tahbrli 1tu41Imd hafti2, Lnis <!*>. L dFGn.d

t:rn! LaE: rùld Lu'.r bnid{r Lrosil .ar:. Fstor il

r2: Ll 4!!! 1!ric 13

[any l3th{antùt wûrtonL I BerncôL

Siltt !ùt6: Lttt! (Fd tathrr! ù où ltltnidbtt

rd lL67l <2L Iiq6r. dr(t$.d

Ndnû @afuq6b.t bn l4r l{51 <50s, thbk 12

Na Fteshl{latf(FRE78)140kdt!ry Mterfront @trn€nt dûp

ulod uda ùht lûiwd @k'.i,g),l2l 120011 a, ràbleû

,:, Ecô1j 4È, nû4e, dy.ed

Bfinrs{.iè(Blcaa :brel2thanturywàffiontl@finol

Iha& â 2 tùlia 648yn)

Èarv Aù@turr mffiont ræbndt

fibnLtdikt ttû)t lniûd &in/i4)a30 l4cdol <ds. Fa3e.

!31 l58eel 4æD, ',ftbÈ8.

{33 l3s34l 4{31: llblà*434 l{0101 é37ô, ràbbe

Md-I}ù€hlrywtet&ont rætndt

tkol @ilx 2.1tuill (^i'd $innirg

135 U6631 æâ ebL&aô llel{l a055>, 1àble3.

lrte l3lh€tuy%terlrmtr6ttmdl

{? I3@1 ala$, 1àbbe

Tqtila ôkd C|ùins

Brir$€stewt hingÙrid(BwB83)t2ie l4thcntury !€tertDnt rô*tndr

lr6rtràil4 22 teil (z.O&t tM)

luûlbnit^ ùbt! (s+t r98)

139 133{l <190>, Tàble&

sih wnâ bbbt (yn locti,g in ôa ottæiabtâ

lhtuM: hrtl+Mbûtl

B69l aso>, F(1ûa xI, dF@d

Cûlrm Edæ (c!Ë73)WaErfront ra€tnst dmÀ nrst h.lf141b

rlbo! @il^ 2.lrulk (nibnrliwin9{a xvl?l <rur1 ngG

P l ù l h e o ù G l d r € e d

llbdL tdiikt 22rulls (nian sriai,C)1,!3 )(vn4 <z5> Tdi.{,Êq2aa" drr

4{ xrl3l <$3$. F1s2?qE!À

rttl wi!4* tibbt A4tun pn)

1.!s xMtl r2$, rôle&Fle534.rô xvl?l <??$. ràdêa

447 rlrl <s35', T.bk io, dFr6d4 Ù116l -116 ftbbrq ÙèEd

I,rùof

NdtuwtùldMbaldt449 ILIzJ <109.. F'9100c. )fl.150 flllol <5e,1à F,gr00& )sL drÈ

6r Inl l <e, Tsbb n.

thw wfus.tL6t htui.1s152 rlr2l <îû2/3>, 1*sae.153 (r2l <rzb, rahrer?.{s (r2l <s, î81ireD.

155 rlt2) <Èelb. .|aùrer3! dFeû{r!56 III?I <m2lb. ]!ble tÀr'Æ7 lll2l <m2là lbblo 13.

D!û.. Plæ (Dl](74lil ofæsspit, send harl4û qtury

,r53 149{1 40€>, Fç70,71- Y drr

@ Iel 43r fise7g 31, rJq dr

211

Glossary

Fdr mor d.hiled deniidom see CIFITA

À s..ondary Nrp th.l bitds Nefi llods

Àr âddiùonnl vri i'irodu..d iûto r !tu!td *rave an{t limired () then,a whcr. it È rtquned by ùc pdG

A(y rdD or hvill in vhiù the dirdion ol rrre ,lj4dial lin.s isRkÉld opf arouF oI licks (w ft .hdmn), ù oû grûps orods

^ iised tetile ûth one laD aNl oi. w1.fr i. qhich the pan{n islormed by â (nrrôi or lrirding q$eûs

]h. sûlle$ fttr,bcr oI wr e(ls ({îo dcùupuo or the uâlsrtrulbe. or rnks or Ès.s tucfr detù,,0ûr.) Lhâi loms ore slq, i'

11r o'de. in {hi.h wrp ends are 1l'r.rlùl dn.ùsh (he heddles or

làbbr in whi.h the sPfr pi.ks pass u'

 roorh thread .oi,posed ol a lmellâ (,rb Fld.d ftmbtue)$ôûid arcud a ùre or{rinù Drtcriâl (or Èxatr'ple, silk or hnen

A loop rhrcqh shich r !rr, .trd h paskd so rh.t n My be raÈed orlortrel t, ôD.n thc shed 10 ldmit $

A selrpaterned wle \irr, . ribby sround â.d snall âIrÆr motl\in orÀd ûss fofm.d bv rqo floats on one Iace aùl w i Jloats oû the

A ÎBtred {ar i', rhi.h a p.nern, .onpoi"d ot trll Jlùa bôr.d bvrbiDdioq!dD, h add.d to âFound !

'I hc principâl or oil.v $trpina 6riLe

Unil $ryo$rl or ôic or moi. moriliconstihtes the !ûteri 0fa rexÙ1e

]len, auxih.y n, rlr mrin xtfr, pâ$ed fioù *lveds û, a lnda. tot rficlr th. soLùd or to form a paren'

s/s,zn

À single passaÂc ol â scfi ùr.ad, or F

A *lvedte *here M. sl'trftlcs ol trrh

'nreâd prod!.ed by ùivjtrdiis thê bâvrs (Ni'i Jilm'.ntt ol sr ôl

See lell L.ed coù'Dolnd $1]l

A {eee basd on a uùi ol iive or mofe ends, Æd  number of pn*!{ual ri, or | oulijd' oi dr. .unbùorcrorunddiouo.more.dj..entpi.ksa dnderôroverd,eie{ô n c fu b in di ry F o i n l s r e s e r d er r wo or m o r e e so! n(e$nt

usiE mannû to sirc r smooù

1lr. lù(irrdi',al .ds. orâ t.xtl. clos.d b! mfr loops

A gmup oihcddLs lird side by side n order Lhâr they nn'y belDtd ()n|r,, rt rhe \a inne

Lhe pâsqe oi eâch qdr {hread'lli. l.te, s s md I ùc uscd to dcnot. r yrnl dnedion ol lwis.'lteeitrl {rôks or L\e le@r mth.s dro di'tcrion in whirh ûe ûisbd

ÎE !ai,' hastr si'nilaf dirstiotr ôlM

sid. Nithout m.iabon

\rnavc bxscd on â uit ors! cnds md lw ri.ks in {hi.h è..h q

^ ryJr or Nimènrp ltæiDA in rhi.h thc sh.ds nre iormed byribl.ts ri'h holes n\roqh {hi.h drr wap eids âÉ ùreaded. llthekbleNuerirl.d eirher j,'!nu5orsirsly.d'.dsr'.cr.atedlof

l\kM}irl!oft,w4,a,dr{ft qriFÈLd ôrrln.adsolditLre.olouF rach oJ q hich is in{e$uên onl! *ith $n Da4 oftlF vtrp

'l1r silk thr.ads that rcstr1t Êom thc I{isliûs ol reeled hlamenc

A weak basei or r uril ol three {r !Di.ks, h lhicl cxch cnd par*s mr or ùdd rtu or nors djtuenl

r mùe. ,I|e bindin{ poins

À ftrp pile {ere in *hich ùr pilc È uodùced by x pilc Nârp thar I

us

îènilâ.rdcllrins

the sidê da icdile mltrich tiewppre{tonitu

Thê ù:ânsrers ltr6ds ota lèxlile: lùe thâi&e pæd thmûe! the

îhê sldê ûlâ texlile on wiich 0E wft pleddni!É

AwÊratterned wafth mlplmentâry wns in &b ornorêsiês, 6!.ny of diËerorolors, ùd â rajn lÙp rd ahiûdinssap.Itmûs! lhe acdd ol lhÈ min qâr! ends, ollyoæedttrrr@dspFrsmûËhe, ùle Lliê ôlhû ôr dhæ àrè kelt io theræreè. ûe ènds ofûÉ ùhdingwÙp bind rhe'é il pass, ddthe srud ùd ùe patLm me frrmd sintrlhmLsly. The mri.êsurâæ isftrêd by *rt tlôù Lhât hide the Min wrD sds

Ateidile in vbich â p6tkm h ionred, or ùe smrd ûihe4 hy rhê

Àyd nBde frm crJded È'jl nbrs

À m@rh ùiead s!!r tm wol Âùrs whicn fiæ bq lâd paràI€l

'fte Jân ts Zrslsled in one s}tEn, Nâlly ûe wrp, ud $si$ed

in ùe.ôù.IlË tr.n ûiÈd lpnnins is $me!@s Gd i. dre k

Thê frr6t leËer is lhe direclion oft\istoltJte yùn od dre sond

_ , 1

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fuùùd4dbr.['ùn.de1non2s|||À

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\dr,rri{sùim. /raùi nrae'6t'id I itDûrr\1.{;D(.d) 8tiùù, 6nr6!Éd.vaF5

ùùfr|di6l!Mn."d.dùIM9|(hM|dx

cn Lss. r njd'rd n kbdl u.,rÈ30rJ

h/or ,irr.t't 6nnl nrdùqùs, J!rr.

!:HD. Rihsr[ n GdJ. rdiù JrÀil,ai Âe,4( //

fti j iar nædds drhÈ*$ ,4 (tds) rÈj!I&tr! i, )t2J t)ttur@6 dùrn6 artù6 1]lir

E]$s J. res? rÆ r i7./id{/rBr. ox]liJ

2r1

rr\ '?. Ài, ilM .Er |{+iùF i.â r@je^{ \]br! .

tr\rL.{\ I F r!ri6'i1r rjF(i \itk ir Bdi{omL(

r,ei4rrrsrifdvùrn.rnv.ao,.r ^i.hriù i! ! J. re5d sraa r, rlrior 7.d/,4 fùi l

crùr I t- 1e33 LtÀa nr: Di. 1iniflù. na

\n ùa t1.{u^t/t tlak./ûh )jln

- Liie / ,!i.4 / rei. !4 shsdo &

hsd6CJrbaRir|diuu'aafuùt'hn|\.riordtù airq dor{. rr4{{i itr Lrprr.rhe

(b] )1Èr . l !,i trhoÀ c6efu Ù 'rd ]h r'JtE dlr'k @û tw&r .4ht.iâ: ,r J.r,r tutair

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\ihmN r. r!31 l\rrb's nun likj.g rr*, rr

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odlljddLskhæ.s(srdJhJ!r3ttnr.n . al n\t. nn oldtr.-./ *t 1Ètr+aâ

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,JAd reersr \ù adiq sdùrr l{rcrpl'

xiù r1iri.s,nro,. 16. {r !Hôrictt B,rBi Sna Fro 4i.,v^*o/dr,', 7.

s' \ûLi HJ, te8,

tt$rNide.19:|.s'a4l'trs@/A4ùd'rg2'

K 1!rre' ({Ln. :{idù$drm, sd'â :itr

o+hcxshi! h Pt ùr{ J!4!r{r & T s Gdn,

Jir.jÈùr l lqflF &

{4{/rtrr,rra( i@,Ând,r ccrrir,rÀ ;0. i;

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t h e o d q d ù e c r l c . i { , , U l @ , , 3 l l B

trtstd,1n IÈn Ura ûùkau lra@ rn44ù

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Knives and ScabbardsJ.cowcr[ rr d! NxERcaam, \- G]rtr|lïrsKriecs ildt ;rJ rô hadicvRl mrn aor I rvhole rang€ ôf qns, fiôn ihc don$rictu Â! vnû Focirl .onrcxr. l'olged â.d l:iêd rirh g(û sLill, somdims virÀdabomrcll dc.omrd scrbbùds, tniv* G of inûinsi. fascinârion, besides bci'isindic or of rhe popultr rti*n os.s of lhe rime. thn book .trt,lôBnB,dn.u$es xùd ilusmtÊs dKr 6vc hundred knnts, $rbbrÀ, shc$ rùd s.ilsorsdxiing tôù tle did nvclih ro rhe mid fifkenrh tùmri.s hd làùid in thc Ciry.f Lôndon, partiolarl) do.g rhe wârerf$nr situs, *hdc ùolscd irms ca' bca.anftlydrred brdendrc.hôidloAl md.ôiD 6rds.lt is a li'ndrmcnr work ofretèrence aor medier'âl rtdarG ùd m:tunrl culrurc.

Shoes and Pattens

Until r.enù1 very litdÊ sù l<noNn about ùedievd shôs. clinpscs innânùsdit t i11u*ntio.s ând on lirneiùy monùmcis, wirll thc occ*rn,rh'cncc br a .orienponry {ritei, w* J1 rhâr rhc .ostomc hntoriar hrd xs.vidence, .or lest becise lertl,ù rcnJs b pcnst aÊo prolonged .ôntrd siihâa rnd eery rew xdurl cxrmrlcs sùnivcd. In '.ccnt lem, hsvma neùt 2,000shos, ùrùy torntlci. rnd ii nlaFtcrtcct .ondirion, hxve been d*.ô\Êcd

ùe$vcJ di rlt nôrtl, bank of thc Tn]mcs, md m nôw hôùsêd in ilc l\'lusumo f I- dnJôn 1 h; collcdon, âI froù rvel-dried ârhacologi.al .onrexs, tils nliisutr git in knùylcdgc, nâkilg it !ôsibt ro .tr.t prccisll, the progres of sb.r&shion bcNee. the Nelfih ùd fifrcntb cennries.

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