Talking Textiles - Yarn Construction and Specialist …fod.infobase.com/HTTP/41900/41995_guide .pdfTalking Textiles Yarn Construction and Specialist Yarns ISBN 9781907948107 4 ©Classroom

TEACHER’S NOTES

Talking Textiles

Yarn Construction and

Specialist Yarns ISBN 9781907948107

Duration: 20 minutes

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Talking Textiles

Yarn Construction and Specialist Yarns ISBN 9781907948107

2 ©Classroom Video Ltd www.ClassroomVideo.co.uk

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For Teachers

Brief Summary of Programme

This DVD focuses on different methods of yarn production and the variations which create special effects. Traditional hand methods are contrasted with fast industrial methods. This DVD is designed to give a general overview to KS4 students beginning GCSE Textiles or for revision at AS and A2 level Product Design Textiles.

DVD Timeline

00:00 Introduction 01:29 Introduction and definitions of Yarn 04:09 Yarn production 05:37 Spinning systems 09:14 Fancy yarns 15:02 Special effects 18:01 Conclusion 19:08 Credits 19:55 End

Related DVDs available from Classroom Video Ltd.

Materials for Design – Felt

Nylon – Fibre to Fabric

Wool – A Fabulous Fibre

From the Talking Textiles series: Natural Fibres

Environmental, Social and Economic Issues in Textiles

Please contact customer services on 0117 929 1924

or visit www.ClassroomVideo.co.uk to see our full range of Design and Technology titles.

Talking Textiles






Programme Overview

Every day we are surrounded by a variety of fibres and fabrics. Fibres fall into two categories - Natural and Man-Made. Yarns can be constructed from a variety of fibres according to the proposed end use. Natural and Man-Made fibres are being used widely in conjunction with smart materials and electronics to produce performance fabrics for specialist garments and constructional use. Natural fibres fall into three categories: 1. Animal or Protein fibre 2. Vegetable or Cellulose fibres 3. Mineral or Inorganic fibres. Natural fibres are usually obtained from shearing, clipping or shed hair from animals. The staple length will vary according to the breed of the animal. Silk is the only occasion when a natural fibre is found in filament form. Vegetable fibres are obtained from the seed, stem (or bast) and leaves of plants. Mineral or inorganic fibres are used in a variety of decorative and functional circumstances usually for specialist requirements. Currently they have strong connections with smart materials and electronics. Man-made fibres fall into two categories (not discussed in detail in this DVD): regenerated and synthetic.

Preparation of the fibres All fibres have varying staple length according to whether their source is from an animal or the seed, stem or leaf of the plant. The fibres need to undergo specific processes. The fibres will generally be carded, combed, washed, drawn and spun into fibre which can then be woven or knitted into fabric.

Spun Yarn The construction of a yarn will affect the resulting appearance of the fabric after it is woven or knitted.

Yarn Production Staple fibres have little strength unless they are twisted. A clockwise yarn is known as an ‘S’ twist. An anti-clockwise yarn is known as a ‘Z’ twist. If two or more yarns are twisted together this is called a ‘plied’ yarn. E.g.: 2ply 3ply 4ply yarn. The thickness or weight of the yarn can be measured in Denier or Tex. The higher the number, the thicker the yarn.

Spinning systems Historically, fibres were spun using a drop spindle. Later, a spinning wheel was used to create yarn in a quicker time. Following the industrial revolution, mechanisation led to large factories being set up with mechanised spinning systems (Ref. Arkwright Spinning Jenny and water frame. Samuel

Talking Textiles






Crompton, Mule) These still exist in modern form today although much of the production takes place overseas and not in UK. ‘Ring spinning is a method of spinning fibres, such as cotton, flax or wool, to make a yarn. The ring frame developed from the throstle frame, which in its turn was a descendant of Arkwright's water frame. Ring spinning is a continuous process, unlike mule spinning which uses an intermittent action. In ring spinning, the roving is first attenuated by using drawing rollers, then spun and wound around a rotating spindle which in its turn is contained within an independently rotating ring flyer. Traditionally ring frames could only be used for the coarser counts- but they could be attended by semi-skilled labour’ (Wikipedia)

‘Open end spinning is a technology for creating yarn without using a spindle. It was invented and developed in Czechoslovakia in Výzkumný ústav bavlnářský / Cotton Researching Institute in Ústí nad Orlicí in the year 1963. It is also known as break spinning or rotor spinning. The principal behind open end spinning is similar to that of a clothes dryer spinning full of sheets. If you could open the door and pull out a sheet, it would spin together as you pulled it out. Sliver from the card goes into the rotor, is spun around into yarn and comes out, wrapped up on a package, all ready to go to the next step. There is no roving stage or re-packaging on an auto-coner. This system is much faster than ring spinning with rotor speeds up to 140,000rpm , and less labour intensive. Several design of rotors are used by different manufacturers; designed for different fibres’ (Wikipedia)

Fancy Yarns Slub yarn

A slub yarn is achieved when a yarn is produced with thick and thin patches. The resulting fabric will have a textured surface comprising small lumps and bumps. Bouclė yarn

The Boucle yarn is created by altering the speed at which the two threads are plied together. One thread is given more over-spin and therefore becomes lively with loops along the length of the yarn. The resulting fabric has a loopy and fluffy texture. Chenille yarn

A chenille yarn can be made from a range of fibres having been first woven using a Leno weave. The Leno weave is cut to produce a fluffy yarn. (Chenille is the French word for caterpillar) this yarn can be woven or knitted to produce a variety of fabrics suitable for apparel or furnishing end uses.

Special Effects Man-made fibres and produced as monofilament yarns are smooth and shiny. It is often necessary to change the appearance of the filaments before the yarn is woven or knitted. All of these methods exploit the thermoplastic characteristics of man-made fibres where the filament is heated, reshaped and heat set.

The stuffer box method produces a yarn which has random crimp as the filament is stuffed into a heated box.

Knit de Knit method produces a yarn with a curved crimp as the yarn is knitted heated and unravelled.

Talking Textiles






Gear crimping produces a yarn with a regular, angular crimp as the yarn passes over a heated gear with regular shapes. Edge crimping produces a yarn which twists into a ringlet shape. The filament is stretched over a heated knife edge and it is allowed to twist in the same way as ribbon will twist when pulled over scissor blades. False twisting produces a yarn which is twisted along its length. The yarn is spun, heated and twisted. Air Jet Texturising produces a fluffy, open, messy yarn. Heated air jets are blown through the filaments tangling them together. This type of yarn will trap air effectively and be a good insulator.

Talking Textiles






Curriculum Links

National Curriculum KS3 Designing and making

Understanding that designing and making has aesthetic, environmental, technical, economic, ethical and social dimensions and impacts on the world. Exploring how products have been designed and made in the past, how they are currently designed and made, and how they may develop in the future Cultural understanding

Understanding how products evolve according to users’ and designers’ needs, beliefs, ethics and values and how they are influenced by local customs and traditions and available materials. Creativity

Making links between principles of good design, existing solutions and technological knowledge to develop innovative products and processes. Critical evaluation

Exploring the impact of ideas, design decisions and technological advances and how these provide opportunities for new design solutions.

Key Stage 4

AQA GCSE Design and Technology Textiles Technology • Properties and characteristics have a working knowledge of the basic composition, physical

and aesthetic characteristics of a range of different fibres to include: natural fibres (cotton and wool), regenerated fibres (viscose), synthetic fibres (polyester and elastomeric);

• have a working knowledge of combination, construction and use of textiles fibres and fabrics; • understand the need to combine fibres, to include polyester/cotton and combinations

including elastomerics; • investigate woven fabrics (plain weave, twill weave and satin weave), knitted fabrics and

one non-woven fabric. Through disassembly investigate how they are constructed. • know that modern microfibres can be used to construct woven, knitted, laminated and

micro-encapsulated ‘Smart’ fabrics; • be aware of technological advances in textilesmaterials and their use in a wide range of

industries; • assess and evaluate the working properties of fibres and fabrics and how they can impact on

fabric choices for products. • be aware of the use of manufacturers’ fabric specifications to select fabrics, and how

manufacturing techniques and processes can influence fabric choices.

Talking Textiles






AQA GCE Product Design Textiles Natural fibres

Plant/cellulose: cotton, linen, ramie Animal/protein: wool, silk, hair Manufactured fibres

Regenerated fibres: e.g. viscose, acetate, modal Synthetic (including microfibres): e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic, elastomerics,, PVC Commercial names of fibres and fabrics

Be aware of popular names of natural, man-made and synthetic fibres and fabrics, including Tactel, Lyocell, Tencel, Lycra, polar fleece and Trevira. Yarns - Carding, spinning

Understand that fibres need to be made into yarns to manufacture woven and knitted fabrics. The importance of twist. Yarn types

Knowledge of basic yarn types and how they influence the qualities of the fabrics made from them, e.g. staple and filament yarns, single and plied yarns, textured and bulked yarns, fancy yarns Blending and mixing of fibres

Staple fibre blends, core spun Fabric manufacture

Knowledge of the structure of the main construction methods and the differences between them. Understanding of the qualities given to the fabrics by the construction methods, including typical end-uses Woven

• Plain (Tabby) • Twill and satin weaves • Pile weaves, eg cut/loop pile • Special effects achieved with coloured yarns and • Blended fi bres, boucle and crepe fabrics

Knitted

• Weft knits, eg single and double jerseys, rib knit, hand and machine knits • Warp knits, including, tricot, velour

Non-wovens

• Production of felts and bonded fabrics

Talking Textiles






Edexcel GCSE Design and Technology Textiles Topic 1.1 Natural fibres

What students need to learn

Aesthetic, functional and structural composition, working characteristics and advantages/disadvantages of the following fibres in the design and production of textile yarns, fabrics and products: Animal

wool silk Vegetable

cotton linen. Topic 1.2 Natural polymers

What students need to learn

Aesthetic, functional and structural properties, working characteristics and advantages/disadvantages of the following natural polymers in the design and production of textile yarns, fabrics and products: Regenerated cellulosic

viscose acetate Tencel®

OCR GCSE Design and Technology Textiles Materials

The origin and structure of fibres • Natural fibres, including cotton, flax, wool and silk • Regenerated cellulose fibres such as viscose • Manufactured fibres, including polyester, polyamide, acrylic and elastane • ‘Smart’ and Modern fibres such as microfibres used for micro-encapsulation.

Performance characteristics of fibres • Abrasion resistance, strength, elasticity, absorbency, thermal conductivity, washability,

resistance to chemicals, acid and alkaline, bleach, flame resistance, moth and mildew resistance, thermoplasticity.

The conversion of fibres into yarn and fabric and the performance characteristic of those fabrics • Spinning • Weaving, including plain weave, twill, satin, jacquard, cut pile and looped fabrics • Knitting, including warp and weft knitting • Non-woven fabrics, including wool felts, needle felts and bonded webs.

Mixing and blending of fibres and yarns, laminating and coating fabrics to improve the performance characteristics of the fabric produced.

Documents

Talking Textiles - Yarn Construction and Specialist …fod.infobase.com/HTTP/41900/41995_guide .pdfTalking Textiles Yarn Construction and Specialist Yarns ISBN 9781907948107 4 ©Classroom