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Saris of Tamil Nadu

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TAMILNADU SARIS

Tamil Nadu is one of Indias majorsari- weaving region.

Wide verity of cotton and silk sarisare available in Tamil Nadu.

Its handloom cooperatives, suchas Tamil Nadus co-op TEX

,India's oldest handloom weaversco-operative.

Most of the weavers belong toDevanga and Saliyar community.

This state contributes towards10% of total raw silk produced inIndia.

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Indias most precious tradition treasure.

Also know as Kancheeveram,

Kanchjeeveram. It gained popularity during period of raja

Krishna dev.

Traditionally Kanchipuram saris are wovenby Salgars community.

Style

Field is woven in silk with zari motifs andwide border and pallav is woven with zarithreads.

Fabric used-

The sari is made of heavy silk calledKanjivaram silk which is three ply andhighly twisted yarn and zari is used forborder pallav and for decoration of field.

Kanchipuram Saris

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Colors-

These saris are usually made in brilliant

reds, saffron, orange, emerald, henna

green, maroon, peacock blue and ochre

with bright contrasting borders.

Motifs-

For pallav-Typical kanchiveram motifs

are pallava temple, palaces and old

paintings.

For border- pyramidal temple borders,

other motifs are rodraksham,gopuram etc.

Kanchipuram Saris

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Technique used-

Korvai and Petni are the technique used for

joining parts of the sari. Korvai is the technique of interlocking weft

yarns where as addition of supplementarywarp yarns is known as petni .

Main centre of weaving are Kanchipurm,Chennai, Arni etc.

Sari in now days context-

Introduction of jacquard and computerized

punching card.

Embellishment with crystal.

Blending of yarn and introduction of pastelshad.

Kanchipuram Saris

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Another name of this sari is Templesari.

Traditional kornard sari use to be 7 to 9meters long.

Style-

The body of sari traditionally contains awoven pattern, usually checks(kattam)or strips(sarai), but larger and widerthan western Deccan saris.

It has wide border , woven in plaincolor with two narrow bandstrips,posotion with in 3 cm of eachborder width.

Kornard Sari

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End piece(tholai) contain either a saris of

widely spaced zari strips or supplementaryweft figuring .

Yarns -

Coarser cotton yarn in the field , border iswith zari and pallav also has zari work onit.

Motifs- Motifs are geometrical in nature, specially

various styles of triangular motifs called amokku ranging from simple triangles toserrated mounds.

Others are elephant, peacock, double

headed eagle etc.

Kornard Sari

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KORNARD SARI

Kornard Sari

Colors-

Traditional color for thesered,green,blue,yellow are the colors

.however colors have been introduced

for north Indian buyers.

Technique used-

In kornard sari ,the borders are

created with interlock technique , and

end piece is created using Porai or

interlock technique.

Main centre of weaving are Arni,

Salem, Chennai.

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Locally also known as Kendanghi.

These saris have a simple and ethniclook which can be worn for all

occasions.

Style-

Chettinad sari has check or strip

pattern all over the field and border

with comparatively plain pallav.

Yarns used-

Coarser cotton yarns are used to

weave these saris.

Chettinad saris

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Chettinad saris

Motifs-

There are checks or strips all overthe field and pallav is simple.

Colors-

Maroon and turmeric yellow arethe main color s in which

sari is woven.

Main characteristic

Illusion is

created with extensive use of color

and patterning with bold and strips.

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Technique-

whole sari is woven on pit loom, thereis no other extra technique is used in

making of sari.

Main centre of weaving-

Chettinad is the main centre of

weaving.

Chetinad saris in today context-

Today a few entrepreneurs haveundertaken to preserve traditional

designs, and have given new life to it

by mixing silk with cotton, giving the

Chettinad sari designer status

Chettinad saris

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Karuppur sari has origin in Koli

karuppur. Its uniqueness lies in combination of

hand painting(using vegetablecolor),block print and brocade weaving.

Style-

It has wide border attached to centralfield and pallav at each end.

Yarns- Zari and coarser cotton yarns are used

to produce fabric.

Karuppur Sari

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Karuppur Sari

Motifs-

Elongated trees on the pallav, stars onthe border and tilikam in field.

Colors-

Deeper tons of colors like red,

yellow blue or black which are obtain

from natural sources.

Technique used-

Three different techniques hand

painting block printing and brocade

weaving is used for producing fabric.

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Processes -

Motif has an uncoloured outline,which reflects the base fabriccolour.

Residual area is filled by either

two or three colours with the helpof blocks printing or kalamkaritechnique.

It has origin in Koli karuppur butnow produced mostly atvenkatgiri and Tanjavur region.

Karuppur sari

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Also known by names likeChungudi, Junnadi.

This saris are best known for its

inexpensive, hard weaving,medium weight which are printed

or resist dyed.

In 19 century these sari was madefor the Saurashtran community

those who are migrated from

Gujarat.

Sungudi saris

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Style-

Sari is printed contain narrowzari band woven in border withadyar end piece.

Fabric-

Made up off tough coarser yarnwhich gives opaque fabric thatwash well.

Motifs and colors-

These saris are embellished withMadurai resist prints mimickedthe motifs of bandhani saris ofGujarat.

Sungudi saris

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saris are made in geometrical pattern indifferent colors( traditionally red and

black).

Technique used-

resist dip dying technique is used to createbandhani print.

Resist dip dyeing technique-

In this technique to resist perticular area clothis placed between two woodwn blocks and

then dyed.

Main centre of weaving is Madurai.

These saris are popular throughout southern

India.

Sungudi saris

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SARISOF ANDHRA PRADESH

Saris of Andhra Pradesh haveamazing range.

They are design for the need ofeach section of society.

There was the time when nearlyevery village in Andhra was a

spinning and weaving hub making

saris.

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Silk sari tradition is somewhat recent

origin.

There common motifs are elephant, swan,dancing girl flower and parrot.

Colors are shads of black,red,blue andgreen.

Traditionally woven by Saliyar and

Devanga community.

Here saris are woven on pit loom with orwithout attachment of dobby or jacquard.

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PIT LOOM

LOOM WITH JACQARD

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KHANSOR SIDDIPAT SARIS

Mix of central Deccan,Orissian and Mugalstyle design.

Style Motifs are floral,leves,animals and even

women carrying water pots.

Fabric

Unbleached fine cotton is used asbackground.

Colors Colors this saris are available in off white as

a base color embellished with orange black,blue or green color yarns.

Motifs Used

In pallav dancing girls, flowers are used

where as in field and border booties arecommon.

Technique used

Supplementary yarns are used for creatingborder and end piece.

Main weaving centers are Siddipat,Jangaonand Chirala.

Fine unbleached muslin

Supplementary

warp

Supplementary weft

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VENKATAGIRISARIS

Style- The Venkatagiri sarees from AP

have graceful strains of gold allover.

Fabric used They are fine count saris

,available in cotton and silk havingzari border.

Colors Generally available in

brighter color like red, maroon,brick red etc.

Narrow zari border

Fine cotton count

Field isunembellished

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Motifs-as field is unembellished

Design- fine checks or strips arepresent in the body with narrow zari

border of width 1-2 inch. there is no specific motif.

These saris are woven specially forforeign market.

Majorly weaving centre is

Venkatagiri.

Venkatagiri saris

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POCHAMPALLIIKATSARIS

It has origin from the Chirala

village. Style-

The style in sari is similar to thepatola sari of the Gujarat.

Yarns used-

Fine cotton or silk yarns are usedin Pochampalli saris.

Motifs

Motifs used are geometrical

figurative derived from day to day

life like clock, airplane etc

Yarns are dyed beforeweaving

Yarns can be of silkand cotton

P h lli ik i

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Colors

Majorly very bright tone of red, black

and white are used.

Technique used

Double or single ikat is done in

pochampalli sari.

Main centre of weaving is Pochampalli

and Chirala.

Pochampalli ikat saris

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DHARAMAVARAMSILKSARI

The Dharmavaram saris from APare silk saris famous all over the

all world.

Style

These are light weight sari havingcontrasting borders and strips onpallav.

Fabric used

silk is used for weaving field andzari is for border and pallav..

Motifs-

Geometrical and temple motifs arecommonly used.

Golden zari border

Silk fabric

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DHARAMAVARAMSILKSARI

Colors used-

Commonly used colors are

red, black orange and green.

These saris are woven tocater local demand forVaranasi or Kanchipuramstyle in silk style in silksari.

Dharamavaram is themain weaving centre.

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NARAYANPETSARIS

Sari gets name from the

town Naraynpath.

These saris weretraditionally worn byBrahmin and other wealthy

women. Style-

sari have zari border andcontrasting border and field.

Fabric used-

This sari is woven both incotton and silk.

Field is plane

Supplementarywarpbands

Supplementary weftbands

Temple motifs

Woven in bothcotton and silk

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NARAYANPETSARIS

Motifs- This sari have borders with

traditional design like Danavati

temple border.

Colors used-

Commonly used colors are blue

black red etc.

It has resemblance with ikal sari ofKarnataka.

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GADHEWALSARIS

Sari traditionally known as Kootu

or Kutakomma saris.

Style-

Gadhewal sari have plain field and

border and pallau in silk.

Fabric used-

It is silk border-cotton field sari ofthe eastern central Deccan.Borderwas either tasser or mulberry.

Unbleached cotton

Silk

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Color used-

Yellow, parrot- green, pink and beige are

the colours used most often.

Motif used-

This sari usually contain temple motifs or

booti in their end piece.Gadhwal saris have impact of Banarasi

saris.

Technique used-

In gadhewal sari warps are join manuallywith help of three shuttle technique.

sari of same flavor is woven at Kotthaka.

Gadhewal saris

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REFERENCES

The sari

Indian saris

Indian traditional textile

Uncut cloth www.craftartisian.com
http://www.craftartisian.com/http://www.craftartisian.com/

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