StitchesStitches

DefinitionDefinition

One unit of conformation One unit of conformation resulting from one or more resulting from one or more strands or loops of thread strands or loops of thread intralooping, interlooping intralooping, interlooping or passing into or through or passing into or through the material.the material.

  Stitch ClasStitch Classesses

100 Class100 Class Single-Thread Single-Thread Chain Stitch Chain Stitch

200 Class Hand Stitch200 Class Hand Stitch 300 Class Lock Stitch 300 Class Lock Stitch 400 Class Chain Stitch 400 Class Chain Stitch 500 Class Overedge Stitch 500 Class Overedge Stitch 600 Class Flat Stitch600 Class Flat Stitch

Single Thread Chains stitches Using One Needle Thread and One Blind Looper

101 Class Stitch

This class of stitch (100) is formed by the This class of stitch (100) is formed by the intralooping of a needle thread supply intralooping of a needle thread supply through or around the fabric. The loop of through or around the fabric. The loop of one needle thread is passed through the one needle thread is passed through the material from the needle side and material from the needle side and intralooped on the other side.intralooped on the other side.

Single thread chain stitch is often used in Single thread chain stitch is often used in temporary applications, as it is easy to temporary applications, as it is easy to remove. This is because each successive remove. This is because each successive loop is dependent upon the previous loop loop is dependent upon the previous loop for security.for security.

ApplicationsApplications

It is ideal for temporary It is ideal for temporary basting.basting.

Attaching buttons or press-Attaching buttons or press-studs.studs.

Blind stitching edges.Blind stitching edges. Spot tacking (cuffs and socks Spot tacking (cuffs and socks

etc) and for securing product etc) and for securing product labels to garments and socks.labels to garments and socks.

205 Class Stitch205 Class Stitch

Class 200 – Hand StitchClass 200 – Hand Stitch

Hand stitches are characterized by a Hand stitches are characterized by a single thread which is passed single thread which is passed through the material as a single line through the material as a single line of thread and the stitch is secured by of thread and the stitch is secured by the single line of thread the single line of thread

300 Class Lock Stitch300 Class Lock Stitch

301 lockstitch301 lockstitch

301 lockstitch301 lockstitch Lockstitch is the most widely used Lockstitch is the most widely used

stitch formation. These stitches are stitch formation. These stitches are extremely secureextremely secure, as a break in one , as a break in one stitch will not cause the seam to stitch will not cause the seam to unravel completely although it will unravel completely although it will compromise the overall seam compromise the overall seam performance performance

Lockstitch 301 is often referred to as Lockstitch 301 is often referred to as ‘double lockstitch'. It is formed by ‘double lockstitch'. It is formed by interlacing a needle thread with a interlacing a needle thread with a bobbin thread underneath the bobbin thread underneath the material being sewn.material being sewn.

AdvantagesAdvantages Neat appearanceNeat appearance It is reversible (as the seam has the same It is reversible (as the seam has the same

appearance on both sides) appearance on both sides) It is strong (when the tension is correct It is strong (when the tension is correct

and the load is equal on both threads)and the load is equal on both threads) It is secure (the seam does not unravel or It is secure (the seam does not unravel or

runback easily if the threads are cut or runback easily if the threads are cut or damaged).damaged).

Disadvantages:Disadvantages: The main disadvantage of using this The main disadvantage of using this

stitch is the production stoppages stitch is the production stoppages required to change the bobbins.required to change the bobbins.

Applications:Applications: Lockstitch 301 is used on products where Lockstitch 301 is used on products where

the same appearance is required on both the same appearance is required on both sides of the seam as it is possible to sides of the seam as it is possible to match threads to different fabric ply match threads to different fabric ply colours. colours.

This is the only stitch to reliably sew a 90-This is the only stitch to reliably sew a 90-degree angle when pivoting the fabric at degree angle when pivoting the fabric at the needle point. the needle point.

This is important for topstitching collars This is important for topstitching collars and cuffs etc. and cuffs etc.

400 Class Chain Stitch400 Class Chain Stitch

Class 401: Chain stitch

Chain stitch 401 is often referred Chain stitch 401 is often referred to as ‘double lock chain stitch‘ to as ‘double lock chain stitch‘ because each needle thread loop because each needle thread loop is interconnected with two loops is interconnected with two loops of the same, single under thread.of the same, single under thread.

This stitch type is formed by inter This stitch type is formed by inter looping the needle thread supply looping the needle thread supply with a separate looper thread with a separate looper thread supply on the underside of the supply on the underside of the fabric.fabric.

AdvantagesAdvantages The large cones of thread that The large cones of thread that

continuously supply the chain continuously supply the chain stitch machine make it perfect for stitch machine make it perfect for continuous, long seaming continuous, long seaming applications. applications.

Another advantage is its strength Another advantage is its strength and extensibility. and extensibility.

It also It also reduces seam puckerreduces seam pucker as as the stitch is set underneath the the stitch is set underneath the fabric rather then between the fabric rather then between the fabric layers.fabric layers.

DisadvantagesDisadvantages The seams canThe seams can unravel unravel or or

runback runback easily easily if the threads if the threads are cut or one of them is are cut or one of them is damaged. The seam can also damaged. The seam can also runback from the finished end. runback from the finished end.

To reduce this problem the To reduce this problem the seam should be seam should be over-sewn or over-sewn or bar-tackedbar-tacked

ApplicationsApplications

sew leg seams on jeanssew leg seams on jeans

It also has good strength and It also has good strength and increased extension and recovery increased extension and recovery properties, making it suitable for properties, making it suitable for sewing side seams on men's and sewing side seams on men's and women's' wearwomen's' wear

500 Class Overedge Stitch500 Class Overedge Stitch

Class 500: Over edge Chain stitch

This class of chain stitch is formed by This class of chain stitch is formed by interlooping the needle thread supply interlooping the needle thread supply with one or more looper threads with one or more looper threads supplied on the side and underside of supplied on the side and underside of the fabric. the fabric.

This stitch type is often referred to as This stitch type is often referred to as ‘overlocking' and, as the name implies, ‘overlocking' and, as the name implies, it is formed when at least one or more it is formed when at least one or more threads are passed around the fabric threads are passed around the fabric edge. edge.

This type of chain stitch is the most This type of chain stitch is the most widely used stitch formation for widely used stitch formation for neatening continuous seaming neatening continuous seaming applications.applications.

AdvantagesAdvantages To prevent fraying when one or more To prevent fraying when one or more

threads.threads. highly extensible and strong highly extensible and strong

Disadvantages

To seam grinning (the threads are exposed when the To seam grinning (the threads are exposed when the seam is pulled at right angles to the line of sewing)seam is pulled at right angles to the line of sewing)

Bulky finish due to the complexity of the seam Bulky finish due to the complexity of the seam construction construction

Application of 504 over edge Application of 504 over edge chain stitchchain stitch

knitted garment industry knitted garment industry for seaming for seaming

sew knitwear, lingerie, sew knitwear, lingerie, underwear, sportswearunderwear, sportswear

Class 600: Covering chain stitch

Covering chain stitch utilizes between Covering chain stitch utilizes between two and four needle threads but two and four needle threads but predominantly one looper thread and predominantly one looper thread and one cover thread. The cover thread one cover thread. The cover thread lies on the top surface of the stitch lies on the top surface of the stitch line and is secured by the needle line and is secured by the needle threads.threads.

The looper threads interloop with all The looper threads interloop with all of the needle threads on the of the needle threads on the underside of the stitch line. underside of the stitch line.

ApplicationsApplications

This stitch type is used to This stitch type is used to reduce seam impression on reduce seam impression on the wearer's skin or on outer the wearer's skin or on outer garments. garments.

It is used in underwear, It is used in underwear, foundation wear and fashion foundation wear and fashion sportswear.sportswear.

Stitches and Seam Stitches and Seam defectsdefects

Improper Stitch Balance - 301 Improper Stitch Balance - 301 LockstitchLockstitch

DESCRIPTION: DESCRIPTION: Where loops are seen Where loops are seen either on the either on the bottomside or topside bottomside or topside of the seam. This is of the seam. This is particularly evident particularly evident with different colored with different colored needle and bobbin needle and bobbin threads. Also, where threads. Also, where the stitch is too loose. the stitch is too loose.

SOLUTIONSSOLUTIONS1)1) Use a Use a quality threadquality thread with with consistent consistent

frictional characteristicsfrictional characteristics. .

2)2) Properly balance the stitch so that Properly balance the stitch so that the needle and bobbin threads the needle and bobbin threads meet in the middle of the seam. meet in the middle of the seam. Always start by checking the Always start by checking the bobbin thread tension to make sure bobbin thread tension to make sure it is set correctly, so that the it is set correctly, so that the minimum thread tension is required minimum thread tension is required to get a balanced stitch. to get a balanced stitch.

Improper Stitch Balance - 401 Improper Stitch Balance - 401 ChainstitchChainstitch

DESCRIPTION: DESCRIPTION: Where the loops on Where the loops on the bottom-side of the bottom-side of the seam are the seam are inconsistent and inconsistent and do not appear do not appear uniform. uniform.

SOLUTIONSSOLUTIONS

1)1) Use a quality thread with consistent Use a quality thread with consistent frictional characteristics;frictional characteristics;

2)2) Properly balance the stitch so that Properly balance the stitch so that when the looper thread is when the looper thread is unraveled, the needle loop lays unraveled, the needle loop lays over half way to the next needle over half way to the next needle loop on the underside of the seam. loop on the underside of the seam.

Improper Stitch Balance - 504 Improper Stitch Balance - 504 Overedge StitchOveredge Stitch

DESCRIPTION:DESCRIPTION: Where the needle Where the needle loop is not pulled loop is not pulled up to the underside up to the underside of the seam and the of the seam and the "purl" is not on the "purl" is not on the edge of the seam. edge of the seam.

SOLUTIONSSOLUTIONS

1)1) Use a quality thread with consistent Use a quality thread with consistent frictional characteristics; frictional characteristics;

2)2) Properly balance the stitch so that Properly balance the stitch so that when the looper thread is when the looper thread is unraveled, the needle loop lays unraveled, the needle loop lays over half way to the next needle over half way to the next needle loop on the underside of the seam. loop on the underside of the seam.

Needle Cutting on KnitsNeedle Cutting on Knits

DESCRIPTION:DESCRIPTION: Where needle holes Where needle holes appear along the appear along the stitchline that will stitchline that will eventually turn into a eventually turn into a "run". Generally "run". Generally caused by the needle caused by the needle damaging the fabric damaging the fabric as it is penetrating as it is penetrating the seam. the seam.

MINIMIZING NEEDLE CUTTING MINIMIZING NEEDLE CUTTING ON KNITS:ON KNITS:

1.1. Make sure the proper thread size Make sure the proper thread size and needle type and size are being and needle type and size are being used for the fabric (See Reducing used for the fabric (See Reducing Needle Cutting.); Needle Cutting.);

2.2. Make sure the fabric has been Make sure the fabric has been properly stored to prevent drying properly stored to prevent drying out and has been finished properly;out and has been finished properly;

Open Seam - Seam Failure - Open Seam - Seam Failure - FabricFabric

DESCRIPTION:DESCRIPTION: Where the stitch Where the stitch line is still intact line is still intact but the yarns in but the yarns in the fabric have the fabric have ruptured. ruptured.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES - MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES - FABRIC:FABRIC:

1)1) Reinforce stress points with Reinforce stress points with Bartacks. Make sure the bartacks Bartacks. Make sure the bartacks are the proper length and width for are the proper length and width for the application; the application;

2)2) Check to make sure the patterns Check to make sure the patterns have been designed for proper fit;have been designed for proper fit;

3)3) Make sure the ideal seam Make sure the ideal seam construction is being usedconstruction is being used

Open Seam - Seam Failure - Open Seam - Seam Failure - StitchStitch

DESCRIPTION:  DESCRIPTION:  Where Where the threads in the seam the threads in the seam have ruptured leaving a have ruptured leaving a hole in the stitchline. hole in the stitchline. Caused by Caused by

1) Improper stitch for 1) Improper stitch for application; application;

2) Inadequate thread 2) Inadequate thread strength for seam; strength for seam;

3) Not enough stitches per 3) Not enough stitches per inch.inch.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURESMINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES

STITCH:STITCH: 1)1) Use a better quality sewing thread. This may Use a better quality sewing thread. This may

include going to a higher performance thread include going to a higher performance thread designed to give greater seam performance.  designed to give greater seam performance.  (See the Thread Selection Guide.);(See the Thread Selection Guide.);

2)2) Use the proper size thread for the application;Use the proper size thread for the application;3)3) For knit fabrics, check for "Stitch Cracking". For knit fabrics, check for "Stitch Cracking".

Stitch Cracking can be caused by any of the Stitch Cracking can be caused by any of the following: not enough stitches per inch; following: not enough stitches per inch; improper seam width or needle spacing for improper seam width or needle spacing for application; improper stitch balance; and application; improper stitch balance; and improper thread selection.improper thread selection.

Puckered Seams - Knits & Puckered Seams - Knits & Stretch WovensStretch Wovens

DESCRIPTION: DESCRIPTION: Where the seam Where the seam does not lay flat does not lay flat after stitching. after stitching.

SOLUTIONS:SOLUTIONS:

1)1) If sewing machines are equipped with If sewing machines are equipped with differential feed, set them properly for differential feed, set them properly for the fabric; the fabric;

2)2) Use minimum presser foot pressure Use minimum presser foot pressure during sewing; during sewing;

3)3) Observe operator for correct handling Observe operator for correct handling techniques. Too much stretching of the techniques. Too much stretching of the fabric by the sewing operator will cause fabric by the sewing operator will cause this problem. (See Sewing Stretch Knits.) this problem. (See Sewing Stretch Knits.)

Ragged/Inconsistent Edge - Ragged/Inconsistent Edge - Overedge or Safetystitch SeamsOveredge or Safetystitch Seams

DESCRIPTION:DESCRIPTION: Where the edge of Where the edge of the seam is either the seam is either extremely "ragged" extremely "ragged" or "rolls" inside the or "rolls" inside the stitch. stitch.

SOLUTIONSSOLUTIONS::

1)1) Make sure the sewing machine Make sure the sewing machine knives are sharpened and changed knives are sharpened and changed often; often;

2)2) The knives should be adjusted The knives should be adjusted properly in relationship to the "stitch properly in relationship to the "stitch tongue" on the needle plate to tongue" on the needle plate to obtain the proper seam width. obtain the proper seam width.

Excessive Seam GrinExcessive Seam Grin DESCRIPTION:DESCRIPTION: Where Where

the stitch balance is not the stitch balance is not properly adjusted (stitch properly adjusted (stitch too loose) and you can too loose) and you can see the seam opening up. see the seam opening up. To check for Seam Grin, To check for Seam Grin, apply normal seam stress apply normal seam stress across the seam and then across the seam and then remove the stress. If the remove the stress. If the seam remains opened, seam remains opened, then the seam has too then the seam has too much "grin through".much "grin through".

SOLUTIONS:SOLUTIONS:

To correct, readjust the sewing To correct, readjust the sewing machine thread tensions so that the machine thread tensions so that the proper stitch balance is achieved. proper stitch balance is achieved. Too much tension will cause other Too much tension will cause other problems including seam failures problems including seam failures ("Stitch Cracking"), excessive thread ("Stitch Cracking"), excessive thread breakage, and skipped stitches. breakage, and skipped stitches.

Seam Failure - Seam SlippageSeam Failure - Seam Slippage

DESCRIPTION:DESCRIPTION: Where Where the yarns in the fabric the yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam from pull out of the seam from the edge. This often the edge. This often occurs on fabrics occurs on fabrics constructed of constructed of continuous filament continuous filament yarns that are very yarns that are very smooth and have a slick smooth and have a slick surface. Also caused by surface. Also caused by loosely constructed loosely constructed fabrics. fabrics.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES - MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES - SEAM SLIPPAGE:SEAM SLIPPAGE:

1)1) Consider changing the seam Consider changing the seam construction to a French construction to a French seam construction; seam construction;

2)2) Increase the seam widthIncrease the seam width3)3) Optimize the stitches per Optimize the stitches per

inch;inch;

Seam QualitySeam Quality

Seam quality is measured by all Seam quality is measured by all the the stitching quality the the stitching quality measurements plus the measurements plus the measurements of other measurements of other parameters parameters seam size, seam seam size, seam slippage strength and the seam slippage strength and the seam strength (Tensile and abrasive)strength (Tensile and abrasive)

Seam sizeSeam size

Seam depth : Thickness and Seam depth : Thickness and Thickness compressibilityThickness compressibility

Seam length : Linear length per Seam length : Linear length per degree of curvaturedegree of curvature

Seam width : Seam allowance, stitch Seam width : Seam allowance, stitch seam width, full seam width, seam seam width, full seam width, seam heading and seam let-out.heading and seam let-out.