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Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2010 2010 TURNAROUND NEW DECADE NEW ATTITUDE! CLEAN YOUR CLOSET, FREE YOUR SOUL THE POWER OF PURPLE SPRING ESSENTIALS Rodes

Spring 2010 Rodes Fashion Forum

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Spring 2010 issue of the Rodes Fashion Forum Magazine

Citation preview

Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2010

2010 TURNAROUNDNEW DECADENEW ATTITUDE!

CLEAN YOURCLOSET, FREEYOUR SOUL

THE POWEROF PURPLE

SPRINGESSENTIALS

Rodes

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Yes, this has a lot to do with the weather, whether we are at work, play or attending a great Derbyevent. We all have our favorite clothes and accessories, but when the seasons change, we change withthem. Even the finest cashmere sweater doesn’t feel quite right when the temperatures begin to rise.Suddenly a linen shirt seems like the perfect idea.

Of course, it’s not always about the clothes. At Rodes we are always looking for new things thatinspire us, so we can share them with you. This season we will bring you Façonnable, a worldrenowned label, For Him and For Her. You will find more quality items at a wider array of price pointsthan ever before.

Yes, we have been listening to you. The themes we hear most inform us that you want quality, luxuri-ous merchandise with value for your money, and you want to help the community. Rodes is locallyowned and is synonymous with quality. Buying local is important to everyone, as it helps strengthenthe local economy, community and charities. Buying quality is an investment that adds real value to

our lives. Quality empowers. Quality looks and feelsgreat.

Which brings us back to the beginning: It’s all abouthow we feel. Whether it’s a beautiful sweater, a dinnerparty with friends, or something completely new anddifferent, we at Rodes want to make every experiencespecial. I’m sure you feel the same.

See you soon, Susan and Howard Vogt

“WHEN WE CHANGE WHATWE WEAR, IT CHANGESHOW WE FEEL.”

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Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633)1-800-866-3112www.rodes.com4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222

EDITOR-IN-CHIEFKaren Alberg GrossmanDESIGN DIRECTORHans GschliesserMANAGING EDITORJillian SpraguePROJECT MANAGERLisa MontemorraDESIGNERSCynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole VendittiCONCEPT DIRECTORSAndrew Mitchell, Russ MitchellMERCHANDISING DIRECTORBob MitchellDIRECTOR OF PRODUCTIONFran SalamonPRODUCTION MANAGERPeg EadieDIRECTOR OF PREPRESSHugh K. StantonBUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUPPUBLISHERStuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEOBritton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COOMac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Christine SullivanAPPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, COGarys NEWPORT BEACH, CAHubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MNKilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OHLarrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PAMalouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TXMario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WAMitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NYMitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CTOak Hall MEMPHIS, TNRodes LOUISVILLE, KYRubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LAStanley Korshak DALLAS, TXWilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 14 regional editions for

member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2010. Published by

Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 •

Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108,

212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers

accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts,

transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be

reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 13, Issue 1.

Printed In The U.S.A.

FEATURES 1 Welcome Letter 4 Rodes Happenings 36 Keep it or Trash it40 Change Your Look,

Change Your Life

FASHION17 Rodes Fashion32 Designer Outlook34 Fabulous Façonnable 38 Zegna: Well Suited 44 Spring Essentials 50 Purple Reigns

DEPARTMENTS 10 Ask Forum 58 Spirits: Marvelous Mezcals60 Sports Style: Walt Frazier64 World Scene66 Destinations: Cause Traveling 70 Lifestyle: Smokin’!72 End Page: Italian Flair

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Douglas Hannant Fashion Event

Douglas Hannant made a rare personal appearance at Rodes

For Her on August 26th. The famous designer featured his

Fall and Resort 2009 collections. Douglas was also at the 21c

Museum Hotel on August 25th to stage a fashion show for

the Speed Museum Ball kickoff meeting.

HAPPENINGS

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Gentlemen’s NightRodes For Him hosted a private “Gentlemen’s Night” on

October 22nd for Northwestern Mutual to benefit the

American Red Cross. Approximately 45 gentlemen

attended and enjoyed premium bourbon, bison and rare

stogies from Arturo Fuente. Arturo himself flew in for

the event and brought his “private stash” of cigars. Over

$5,400 was raised for the American Red Cross.

HAPPENINGS

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All-American Casual DayOn November 7th, Rodes For Him held its

semi-annual All-American Casual Day.

Sportswear brand representatives from all

across the U.S. visited with many of you and

enjoyed smokehouse barbecue and American

ale. Fun was had by all!

HAPPENINGS

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Rodes Seasonal Fashion EventsRodes For Him & For Her host and participate in many events both

inside and outside our store. Here is a look at some of our trunk

shows, benefits and fashion outings from last season.

HAPPENINGS

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Gilda’s NightThis year, we celebrate the fifth anniversary of the Gilda’s Night event, which was held at Rodes For Him & For Her on November

13th. In these five years, more than $600,000 has been raised in support of Gilda’s Club’s mission to create welcoming communities

of free support for anyone touched by cancer. This year’s event netted a record $200,000 for Gilda’s Club Louisville.

HAPPENINGS

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Q:The Wall Street Journal recentlyshowed a photo of Russian President

Dmitry Medvedev wearing jeans whilemeeting with President Obama. Is thisappropriate? What kind of jeans workbest in business situations?In many circles, dark denim worn with a sportcoat, tie anddress shoes is a perfectly acceptable business look for all butthe most formal occasions. Just make sure the jeans are slimbut not tight, and a perfect length (not dragging on the floor,not rolled up). Rips, tears, whiskering and very light washesaren’t usually acceptable for business (and often look justplain silly!). Don’t forget to invest in a really good leatherjeans belt that’s less formal than the ones you wear with suits.

One caveat, however: Unless you’re the president of a largecountry, don’t assume it’s okay to show up in jeans. If youdon’t know the dress code, it’s best to stick with a slim-cutsuit—always elegant, fashionable and respectful.

Q:I’m trying not to spend too muchmoney on clothing, but most of my

wardrobe is old or dated. What few thingscan I buy for spring to update my look?If you buy only one piece this season, make it a soft sportcoat.For 2010, sportcoats are slightly slimmer and less structured(some are totally unlined) with softer shoulders. Some stylesfeature technical details and inside pockets; others have knitinsets and can be worn casually or as an outerwear piece.Bottom line, a soft sportcoat takes you anywhere, and tiestogether the rest of your wardrobe.

Beyond that, you might want to buy a soft plaid shirt in palepurple or blue, a few new neckties (they’re a bit narrower thisseason and look great for business or partying), slim 5-pockettrousers (a departure from jeans) and new boat shoes. Nowyou’re good to go for spring 2010!

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To avoidlooking

sloppy, makesure yourjeans are

slim but nottight and notdragging on

the floor

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Q:My girlfriend is mortified when Iwear shorts out at night but I

don’t see what’s wrong with it. Whenand where should shorts be worn?What kinds of shorts are in style?Our fashion experts argued this one for hours and stillcouldn’t come to a consensus. Obviously, shorts areappropriate on weekends and for recreational activities(and there are so many great styles available this sea-son, from tailored fits to washed plaids, bold colors toreversibles) but traditionalists still recommend longpants at night. That said, a few fashion magazines (andfashion runways) were touting shorts for all occasions,even showing them with sportcoats for a dress-up look.But bottom line: If your girlfriend is mortified, lose theshorts for nighttime (or dump the girlfriend). As we allknow, it’s not worth the aggravation…

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Q:My wardrobe consists of suits for work, khakis

and golf shirts for weekends. Am I missing something?YES! Trade magazines used to call it “the thirdwardrobe” and it’s essentially that gray areabetween dressed up and “schlumpy.”

It’s really less complicated than it seems: Buy afew nice pairs of pants that are neither jeans norkhakis (we love linen, colored canvas, seersucker,subtle patterns), a few woven shirts and/or light-weight knits and one great sportcoat. Throw in anaccessory or two (a great scarf, a cool belt, funsocks) and you’ve made a minimal investment thatwill totally upgrade your image. Come into the storeand we’ll make it painless.

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Q:I’m spending so much money onpremium denim! What’s the best

way to care for these expensive jeans to make sure they last ?Denim should be cared for according to manufacturerdirections, of course. But since washing can be harmful,try to limit laundering unless the denim is extremelydirty. In fact, several designers’ “raw” denim comes withinstructions not to wash for at least six months sincewashing interferes with the process needed to “breakthem in.”

After the requisite six months, wash the denim insideout in cold water (alone the first time since dark denimtends to bleed). After the first wash, it’s generally safe towash them with like colors. Most women’s jeans can bewashed more frequently, as long as they’re turned insideout in cold water. A final tip: lay your jeans flat to dry, thebetter to maintain their original color and wash.

With designer denim care, as with many fine things inlife, less is more.

Q:I’m seeing women’s denim in various styles, from super-skinny

dark washes to low-rise faded flares.What’s the “it” jean this season?The “it” jean for spring 2010 is the skinny fit, in washesfrom faded blue and white to super dark. The skinny jeanis much easier to wear and more flattering (slimming)than you might think; what’s more, it transitions well fromday to evening.

When deciding which denim style to wear, considerboth your body type and what you’re putting on top. If it’sone of this season’s flowy blouses, then you need to weara narrow leg jean to complement it. With sexy sandals ortucked into a spring boot, your skinny jeans will make abold fashion statement.

On the other hand, bootcut or trouser jeans are bestworn with a great heel of some sort. This look works bestwith a fitted top that comes in at the waist; when pairedwith a tailored blazer, it even works well for the office.

Since jeans these days come in so many different rises,leg widths and washes, come into the store and we’ll helpyou sort out what works for you.

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BEAUTY. BALANCE. LUXURY.

WWW.ORLANDAOLSEN.COM

Orlanda Olsen crafts her pieces with quality and

wearability in mind, using only the finest materials.

Her equine collection is internationally recognized

and she has many new designs each season.

Come view Orlanda’s exciting new collection. . .

exclusively at Rodes For Her.

“I think my jewelry is a blend of

Edge and Elegance. The

difference between something

nice and something sensational

is in the details and using the

finest materials. I like to give

everyone something to buy and

create jewelry that evokes an

emotional response.”

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LOOK BOOKSpring & Derby

. . ..

“We hope you have as much fun wearing these clothes as we did

shooting them for the magazine!”

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Gerard Yosca Jewelry Stuart Weitzman Shoes

Ports 1961

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Armani Collezioni

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Andy Thê-Anh

Gerard Yosca Jewelry Santi Clutch Purse Stuart Weitzman Shoes

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Christine A. Moore Millinery

St. John Knits

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Linsay Moremen Wrap Rebecca Hook Jewelry Christine A. Moore Millinery

Philosophyby Alberta Ferretti

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ETRO

FOR HER: Ciner Jewelry FOR HIM: Ferragamo Shoes

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Ermenegildo Zegna& Kate Spade

FOR HER: Christine A. Moore Millinery FOR HIM: Ferragamo Shoes & Torino Belt

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FOR HER: Christine A. Moore Millinery & Tory Burch Accessories FOR HIM: Ferragamo Shoes & Torino Belt

Ermenegildo Zegna & Piazza Sempione

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Canali & Kate Spade

FOR HER: Christine A. Moore Millinery & Gerard Yosca Jewelry FOR HIM: Ferragamo Shoes & Torino Belt

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FOR HER: Sibilia Jewelry & Tory Burch Shoes FOR HIM: Ferragamo Shoes & Torino Belt

FAÇONNABLE &Nanette Lepore

Wolford

FAÇONNABLE

Robert Talbott

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Paper White Robert Graham

CJ byCookie Johnson

Diane von Furstenberg

Robert Graham &7 For All Mankind

FOR HER: DVF Accessories & Tory Burch Shoes FOR HIM: Martin Dingman Shoes & Torino Elite Belt

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Martin Dingman Shoes Torino Belt

Scott Barber & Agave Scott Barber

Nat Nast

Agave

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Ferragamo Shoes Torino Belt

Luciano Barbera

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Gravati Shoes

ISAIA

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Anna Zegna at

ZEGNAAn easy yet stylishly relaxedapproach is revealed with formaltwo or three piece tailoring. Thisincludes comfortably slim doublebreasted jackets and softtrousers, and essential shorterjackets also coupled withslimmer trousers. Linen, silk andwool, the three purest ofsummer’s natural fibers, will berediscovered as the core of areal gentleman’s wardrobe.

DESIGNEROUTLOOKElisabetta Canali at

CANALII am inspired by the lifestyle ofthe modern man, and his informalbut stylish pairing of trousers andjackets. The double breastedblazer is the undisputedprotagonist of spring 2010. Canalioffers it in traditional blue withart deco inspired accents ofgreen, sand and lilac, and motherof pearl or champagne brushedmetal buttons. For the moreromantic wearer, the Kei jacketcelebrates elegance and self-assurance, combining skillfullytailored construction with the softfit of a shirt; it embodieswearability and comfort.

Brunello Cucinelli at

CUCINELLI I always draw my inspiration fromthe streets. I often travel abroadduring the year, and I like toobserve every detail when I walkalong the streets of New York,Paris or Tokyo. I find it especiallyinteresting to see the way youngpeople dress; it is a true source ofinspiration. The must have itemthat a man needs during thesummer is the deconstructedblazer (pictured above). It isperfect for every occasion,whether a business dinner or afresh night out with friends.

Gianluca Isaia at

ISAIAThe spring 2010 collectionarticulates a sartorialretrospective of 1950s charm withthe grace and elegance of today’sHamptons lifestyle, and of course,the traditions and excellence ofNeapolitan tailoring. At a mere150 grams (5.29 ounces), ISAIA’sAqualight blazer is the star of thecollection, a wool/silk blend soseemingly weightless that it caneasily be compared to the cottonof a shirt. ISAIA’s summerseersucker cottons have foundnew life in wool and silkproductions. Must have colors arechromatic combinations: naturaland turquoise, navy and applegreen, gray and orange.

Inspiration andessentials from the2010 collections. By Jillian Sprague

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Clothes with joie de vivre. By Karen Alberg Grossman

FABULOUSFAÇONNABLE

It all began in the south of France, in a small tailor shop on Nice’s Ruede Paradis. In 1950, with the French Riviera as his backdrop, JeanGoldberg created a family business based on the principles of style,quality and craftsmanship. Jean’s son Albert worked beside him,learning the craft of a Master Tailor.

The Façonnable brand was born, its name derived from the Frenchverb “façonner” (a way of doing) and the English word “fashionable;”its reputation grew thanks to numerous actors in search of eveningwear during the Cannes Film Festival.

After visiting Brooks Brothers boutiques in New York during the1960s, Albert Goldberg invented his own visionof menswear, which led to the birth of a“SportChic” lifestyle, featuring fine fabrics in arich color palette inspired by the Mediterranean.The brand is renowned for superior craftsman-ship and an unwavering attention to detail.

In 2007, Façonnable was acquired by M1Group; its CEO Maher Mikati, an MBA with a

strong communications background, is now the acting brand manag-er. “I’ve personally been a Façonnable customer since the early ’90s,along with my father and uncle, who have always worn Façonnable. SoI’m very familiar with the brand, its heritage and its hallmarks ofmodern classicism, color and effortless style.”

According to Mikati, the three items a guy must have for spring2010: iconic shirts in exclusive patterns, colorful pants and very lightouterwear pieces. “In a sense, we’re not just in the business of makinggarments, we’re in the business of exporting a lifestyle, a way of life, ajoie de vivre that is unique to the French Riviera.”

“WHAT I’D LIKE OUR CUSTOMERS TO FEEL WHEN WEARING OUR PRODUCT ISTHAT THEY’VE BEEN TRANSPORTED TO THE FRENCH RIVIERA...”—MAHER MIKATI

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Clean your closet, free yoursoul… By Nick Ockert

In a quandry and frozenwith confusion by your

outdated closet?We’ve got some tips

on whether to

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KEEP IT OR TRASH IT

My closet was a puzzle of mismatched pieces, outdatedstyles and strange colors. I longed for a solution to thechaos, knowing that to simplify my closet would be tosimplify my life. After much research (and experimenta-tion), here are five foolproof criteria to follow:

1Wear. If it’s worn, frayed, faded, ripped or rippled(as some suits tend to be after too many dry clean-ings), throw it out!

2Replenish. Replace the classics you still love (theperfect charcoal suit and navy blazer, white andblue oxford shirts, great jeans and khakis) but

remember that styles evolve and today’s classics are notexactly the same as yesterday’s.

3Dormancy. If you haven’t worn it in two years, you’reprobably not ever going to, so donate your inactivepieces to those in need. If you’re holding onto clothes

that are outdated because you think these styles will comeback, trust me: they won’t. We offer a complimentary clos-et cleaning service, and we’d be happy to send one of ourtrained associates to your home to help you make thetough decisions.

4Fit. If you’ve gained or lost a little weight, a goodtailor might be able to help. But if you’ve changedmore than a size, even a great tailor may not be

enough. What’s more, expensive alterations might notbe worth it, especially when you can find so much terrif-ic new fashion in stores these days.

5Boredom. If your wardrobe is not exciting you, it’snot likely to excite anyone else, so add a few newpieces for a boost. To quote the writer Isaac

Bashevis Singer, “What a strange power there is inclothing!” And what a strange and liberating power inan organized closet!

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WELL SUITED

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Italian clothier Ermenegildo Zegna had a breakthroughthree years ago when it introduced the iJacket, a feather-weight garment featuring a built-in touch control panel onthe sleeve, allowing a man to interface with his iPod with-out ever removing it from his inside chest pocket. CalledSmart Clothing technology, it paved the way for last year’sSolar jacket, which has a built-in solar cell to help keepyour personal electronics perpetually charged. Now Zegnahas gone even further with the introduction of Elements,the first jacket to automatically regulate your body temper-ature in all weather situations.

If your only perception of Zegna (pronounced zane-ya) isas a suit maker, you might be surprised to know that thisfamily-owned company, celebrating its 100th anniversarythis year, has been on the cutting edge of fashion since itsinception in 1910.

From textiles to technology,Ermenegildo Zegna’s got menswearcovered. By William Kissel

A FABRIC MAKER, A CLOTHING LABEL, A SHOE AND LEATHER GOODS BRAND,AND A PHILANTHROPIC ENTITY KNOWN FOR ITS TIRELESS EFFORTS ON BEHALFOF THE ENVIRONMENT, THE CONNECTION BETWEEN ALL THINGS ZEGNA IS THECOMPANY’S PREOCCUPATION WITH CREATIVITY AND TECHNOLOGY.

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This season Zegna’s textile teamis particularly fond of “Crossover”fabrics made from divergent fibersources, such as a proprietary blendof cashmere and cotton used to cre-ate what the company calls Cashco.“These two fibers are normally usedfor different seasons, climates andlifestyles. But we brought themtogether to create a soft and silkyfabric that is both precious andsporty,” explains co-chief executiveGildo Zegna, a fourth generationclothier named for the company’sfounder. Other Crossover fabrics aremade from blends of silk, linen andwool to give a light and airy feelingto typically heavyweight Prince ofWales and other check patterns.Zegna says such cloths transcendseasons to greatly extend the life ofone’s wardrobe, and are the result of2,000 seasonal fabric experiments,only a handful of which ultimatelyend up in Zegna’s three signatureclothing lines: Ermenegildo Zegna,Zegna Sport and Z Zegna.

While fabric is Zegna’s history,suit making has become the family’sheritage. The generation currentlyrunning the business grew up, liketheir fathers and grandfathers, “eat-ing bread and jackets,” as oneItalian tailor described such an all-

consuming passion. Zegna first putits signature on tailored clothing inthe 1960s and a decade later becamea world leader in the field with theinvention of made-to-measure, ahalf-machine/half-handmade hybridstyle of custom suit making that istoday offered by nearly every cloth-ing brand in the world. At a timewhen designer brands like Gucci,Giorgio Armani and Yves SaintLaurent were offering the samehouse style to every man wearingtheir suits, Zegna’s idea to let menselect their own fabrics and details—in essence design their own suits—became a watershed moment forboth Zegna and, subsequently, theentire menswear industry.

eople think we aredeveloping all theseproducts to satisfyour own egos. Butit’s really out ofnecessity,” saysAnna Zegna, VP of

worldwide communications, notingthe importance of a global brandoffering a full range of products andpricepoints in order to satisfy a vari-ety of tastes and needs. Thatincludes everything from $200 jeansand $395 sneakers to $5,000 limitededition alligator shoes and $20,000

custom-made suits cut fromthe company’s own Vellus

Aureum, a wool so rare there isonly enough cloth to produce 20suits. “We are using more luxuriousmaterials and adding more handmake in our made-to-measure suitsthan we did in the past,” says Gildo.But that is not at the expense of thebroader luxury consumer and thecurrent economy that “demands wecreate more products that are moreaffordable,” he adds.

Despite so much diversifica-tion, Zegna still makes some ofthe finest suits and sportcoats inthe world. What’s more, becausethe company is vertically inte-grated (meaning it produces itsown fabrics and the finishedclothing made from them), pricesare relatively reasonable. “It’s notjust about good quality, but alsoinnovation in style and, above all,a great fit,” explains Gildo, notingthat Zegna’s goal has always beento offer a taste of Italian fashionwithout being too outspoken.“Any company capable of combin-ing all three is at the top,” he sayswith a pause before adding:“We’re not yet at the top, butwe’re certainly moving in thatdirection.”

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CHECK OUT ZEGNA’S SPRING COLLECTION OF ELEGANTLY-STYLED SPORTS-WEAR AND SUITS, MOST OFWHICH ARE REMARKABLYREMINISCENT OF THOSEWORN BY THE GATSBY GENERATION OF THE 1920S.

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CHANGE YOUR LOOKCHANGE YOUR LIFE

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Appearance matters, today more than ever.By Frank A. Schipani

In the past year or so, how well haveyou been doing in your businessdealings? In your personal life? Ifyour answer is “great” and you’reindependently wealthy and set forlife, then read no further. But ifyou’re not in a blissful financialstate and are still competing profes-sionally or romantically, read on.

A recent Harvard study found thatwhen someone meets you for thefirst time, their immediate sense ofwho you are is based 55 percent onyour appearance and demeanor, 38percent on your tone of voice andonly 7 percent on what you say.

Clearly, it’s critical to look goodand present ourselves in a way thatinvites interest, attention and confi-dence, not only to new acquaintanc-es but also to those we already knowand work with. New clothes provideaffirmation that we care about our-selves and value how people consid-er us. If you accept this premise,let’s examine how we can invest inourselves for maximum success.

Some of us are blessed with great

genes, e.g. a trim body and a strongheart. That said, most of us need todo some form of conditioning tostay healthy. (And without goodhealth, does it matter how good welook in clothes?) Before all else,commit yourself to regular exerciseand healthy eating.

Now, let’s start at the top: Is yourhair cut in a modern style and kepthealthy-looking with the right main-tenance? If you’re a guy and youdon’t know, ask your favorite ladyfor a reality check.

Are you treating your face with agood skin conditioner? The old daysof throwing on some alcohol-basedaftershave (a killer for skin, but whoknew?) are long gone. Keep yourface and hands well moisturized;they’re the ‘tools’ of communicationfor everything you do.

Okay, enough with the healthybody—let’s get to covering it!

Perception is everything: If yourclothing looks dated, people willassume your outlook, your attitude,your services are dated! Think of

If your appearance isordinary, people will thinkyour outlook is ordinary.

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new clothes as an investment inyourself and in your career.

ou shop in this store,ranked by MR Magazine(the leading men’s fashiontrade journal) as one ofthe best in the country(i.e. knowledgeable sellersand the highest quality

clothing one can buy). So why notask one of our highly-trained salesprofessionals for a complimentaryassessment of your closet? We guar-antee you’ll be glad you did.

Wear current suits. Althoughmen’s clothing trends evolve gradu-ally and suits are unlikely to go outof style from one year to the next,after a few years they do tend tolook dated. (And suits in 2010 areclearly trimmer and more fitted thanthey were a few years back!)

Wear distinctive shirts and ties.The difference between lookinggood and looking great is often notmuch more than adding some inter-esting colors and patterns to a clas-sic wardrobe. Try a pocket squarefor extra flair.

Try wearing fitted jeans with anavy blazer, brown suede shoes anda cool shirt. (Just make sure thejeans and jacket are close-fitting butcomfortable.) Or try the same lookwith a shirt and tie for a very mod-ern take on tailored. Keep your jack-et buttoned in order to look trim-mer. This look is forever smart andwill take you anywhere!

Buy a few cardigan sweaters inchocolate, camel, grey and black anduse them as blazers paired withdress pants or jeans. Add thosebrown suede slip-ons (you mightwant to invest in a black pair too).

Invest in a modern topcoat that’sshorter than those currently in yourcloset. As long as it covers your suit

jacket, it works with both dress andcasual wear.

Select a pair of ‘dress’ sneakers ina neutral shade of brown or tan tolook casual but not schlumpy. I’mnot talking running shoes, butrather ‘designer styles’ that manycompanies are now showing. Theseare a comfortable and stylish mustfor any modern man’s wardrobe.

And lastly, have some fun withaccessories, like a bold cashmerescarf, unique cuff links, a distinctivehat, colorful buttery-soft leathergloves and the like. Often, acces-sories are the best (and most afford-able) way to add personality to yourappearance and take your look fromordinary to exceptional.

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ADD BROWN SHOES TO YOUR FOOTWEARWARDROBE; THEY CAN BE WORN WITH ALL KINDSOF SUITS (DESPITE ARCHAIC THEORIES THATGRAY OR NAVY SUITS REQUIRE BLACK SHOES).

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“If you wearglasses, are they

of a modernstyle? Eyewear

is not just avisual aide, butalso a ‘picture

frame’ for youreyes, which are

the mirror ofyour soul.”

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Produced by SUSAN F. SIDORPhotography by DAMIAN SANDONE

KEYITEMSYOUNEED TO LOOKYOURBESTTHISSPRING

SPRING ESSENTIALS

DARK &DRESSY

SUIT

POWERJEANS

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FINE-GAUGECASHMERESWEATER

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WASHEDPLAIDSHORT

THE BOATSHOE

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WASHEDPLAID

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TECHNICALOUTERWEAR

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COMFYWEEKEND

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WASHEDCOTTONKNITS

MAASHAELJABE

KNIT BLAZER

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STANDOUTACCESSORIES

VINTAGEPREP

MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONESASSISTANT: TARA FERRIHAIR AND MAKEUP: ALBERTO MACHUCAELLIS MCCREADIE: MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENTJAMES MATHIEU: NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENTBENOIT: NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT

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PURPLE REIGNS

Update yourwardrobe withtouches ofpurple—rich,royal and everremarkable. Insuits, sweaters,shirts andaccessories,Spring 2010fashion ispopping withpurple.

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Produced by SUSAN F. SIDORPhotography by MICHAEL TAMMARO

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MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONESASSISTANT: TARA FERRIHAIR: LUKE BAKER FOR SEE MANAGEMENTMAKEUP: REGINA HARRIS FOR SEE MANAGEMENTMODEL: RACHAEL SCOTT FOR MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENTMODEL: ERIK ROCCA/FOR DNA MODEL MANAGEMENTJEWELRY BY ROBIN ROTENIER

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SombraMezcal, fromOaxaca, is afar cry fromthe worm-soaked hoochyou thoughtwas mezcalin college

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Tequila isn’t the only premium spirit South of the Border. By Robert Haynes-Peterson

It took 10 long years, but you knowyour tequilas. You even know whyPatron isn’t what it was a decadeago. But have you been payingattention to Mezcal, tequila’s her-mano? Mezcal—that harsh stuff withthe worm in it you got sick on incollege—has cleaned up good and isready for another look.

“Mezcal is where tequila was sev-eral years ago, in terms of accept-ance,” says Junior Merino, theMexican-born “Liquid Chef” and thebrains behind the delectable cock-tail menus at Manhattan’s Macondoand Rayuela restaurants.

In fact, tequila is a mezcal, albeitone restricted to a specific kind ofagave (the Blue Weber) and threespecific growing/distilling regions ofMexico. Mezcal, on the other hand,can use up to 25 or 30 varieties of the300 types of agave growing inMexico (impacting the nose and fla-vor profile), and originates in severalregions (though much mezcal hailsfrom the state of Oaxaca). “There’seven a mezcal, called raicilla, distilledin the tequila region,” says Merino.“Like the Super Tuscans, it’s a tequilastyle that doesn’t follow the rules setfor what can be called ‘tequila.’”

“I recommend mezcal to people

who like single malts, because it hasa similar smoky nature,” Merinocontinues. Most mezcal is still hand-crafted in small batches and cookedin underground ovens, adding asmoky, peaty complexity. Like tequi-las, they can be aged (though for themost part they aren’t). “We have oneof the few aged mezcals on the mar-ket,” says John Rexer, founder ofIlegal Mezcal. “The idea is to neverbury the flavor of the agave.”

Flavorful they are, cheap andharsh they don’t have to be.Premium and super-premium mez-cals are entering the U.S. market ata surprising clip. Sombra ($50), partof the Classic and Vintage ArtisanalSpirits portfolio, is an excellentplace to start: Smoky and filling onthe mouth, it’s rich like a single maltand crafted for sipping (as are mostmezcals). When you’re ready toexplore, hunt down Mijes Reposado($65), a distinctive spicy, peaty spiritwith iodine notes (that’s a goodthing). If you insist on having a bugat the bottom of your bottle,Scorpion Mezcal is a high-qualityproduct, boasting a remarkableGran Reserva 7-Year-Old ($200)with, you guessed it, a scorpion rest-ing at the bottom.

“PARA TODO MAL, MEZCAL Y PARA TODOBIEN TAMBIEN.” FOR EVERYTHING BAD,MEZCAL, AND FOR EVERYTHING GOOD, TOO.

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It was the winter of ’73 in Memphis and I was a housebound pre-pubescent basketball junkie. I nailed an off-balance jumper while falling into my closet and justthen, my mom’s egg-timer dinged to signify that I hadled my imaginary team (the Memphis Elvises) to astunning last second victory over the heavily favoredNew York Knicks in my personal Nerf BasketballAssociation Championship game.

So you can imagine my excitement when, decadeslater, I was approached about interviewing Hall ofFamer and New York Knick great Walt Frazier. Meetinghim was like my favorite basketball card coming to life.

He was noted for being one of the ‘big guards’ beforebig guards were en vogue. The 6’4” Frazier was the kindof player who could post you up all day, then knock down20 footers ’til he got bored—and with all those steals, hewas the best pickpocket in the Garden! Having made theAll-Defense Team seven times, playing ball against himcould be summed up in two words: not fun.

Something of a fashion plate from the get-go, Fraziergrew up in Atlanta in the ’50s and ’60s. At a young age,Walt’s mother instilled in him the importance of look-ing good. Coming of age in a challenging era—whenAfrican Americans were working to clear a lot of socie-tal hurdles—she let him know that he was special, andthat his image would be a symbol of himself, of hisfamily and his ethnicity.

A handsome, tall and substantially refined gentle-man, Frazier was blessed with a loving family thatencouraged not only strength of personal characterbut also an awareness of leadership—on and off thehardwood. Growing up in the South, contending withsegregation, Frazier represented more than just him-

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INSTILLED IN HIM THE IMPORTANCEOF LOOKING GOOD.

WALT FRAZIER

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A study in class and banking off the glass. By James Benton

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self: Mrs. Frazier taught him to bean ambassador for his race. “Mymom said it isn’t always about thequality [of what you wear], butabout carrying yourself with dignityand making the most of what youhave,” Frazier says.

thletic to the max, heexcelled at football,baseball and basketballat Howard High inAtlanta. Accepting ascholarship to SouthernIllinois University, hiscollege career was

capped off with the NITChampionship at the basketballMecca of the world: Madison SquareGarden. Little did he know at 18-years-old that he was saying hello tohis new home, a place where hewould embark on a journey that ele-vated him to icon status.

Therein lies the impetus for WaltFrazier to embrace and exude aclassy image. Fortunately, he had aninnate appreciation for sharp, dis-tinctive, fashionable clothing. “Ihear a different drummer. I had suchan eccentric dad; I remember as akid trying on my daddy's niceclothes, and that was the start.”

Nicknamed “Clyde” after the 1967film Bonnie and Clyde starringWarren Beatty (Frazier loved the hatworn by Beatty’s character), Frazierwas the resident clothes horse of theKnicks team. “I came to New Yorkwearing shirts with button downcollars and penny loafers, but backthen my teammates used to wearsuits and ties, like the Temptations.So early on there were some gooddressers. Dick Barnett was a gooddresser.” (One could even say thatFrazier and Barnett were the NBA’sbest dressed in addition to being itsbest backcourt.)

A First Team All-NBA selection

four times, Frazier broughtChampionships to the Garden in1970 and 1973. His on-court success-es were somewhat mirrored by hisexpanded fashion palette. “I migrat-ed to the fur coats, the Rolls Royce…I never liked custom made becauseit took two or three weeks—plus Ididn’t know about the fabrics.”

More of an actor than a reactor,Frazier went on the offensive bychecking out local tailors, learningabout fabrics and developing avision that would embody his tastes.“I found Mohan’s Custom Tailors at42nd and Vanderbilt. They ran adsfor taller guys in The Times. I wouldalso walk Delancey Street and findunique fabrics, and generally devel-op my own creations. I had my ownstyle: I liked pizzazz, nothing mun-dane, I like jazzy. I always likedgrays, blues, flannels and plaids. Istill have the same mink coats—myblack one and the white one. Thisyear I’m into cowboy boots—Lucchese boots are so comfortableonce you break them in, you don’twant to take them off!”

Like most things, men’s fashion’srelationship with the NBA has hadits ups and downs. In a recent arti-cle, Kenny Smith, an NBA analystfor TNT, chimed in with his NBAfashion leaders of previous eras:Wilt Chamberlain in the ’60s, WaltFrazier in the ’70s, Chuck Daley inthe ’80s, Pat Riley and Alan Iversonin the ’90s, and for the new millenni-um, Lebron James.

In 2005, the commissioner of theNBA laid down a stricter dress codethat basically outlawed the cultural-ly driven fashion trends of themoment. Frazier felt that “it waslong overdue—tall guys look good ina suit! In my day, our idols wereguys like the Four Tops. Until the2005 dress code took effect, the

idols were the rappers, lots of reallycasual looking guys.”

I would be remiss not to acknowl-edge the substantial contributionsWalt Frazier still makes to hisbeloved Knickerbockers. Serving asthe voice of the Knicks for the MSGNetwork, Frazier remains an astuteobserver of the team, which inrecent years has caused equal partspleasure and pain (at the moment,the Knicks’ record is very un-Frazier-like).

Perhaps the most important giftfrom Walt Frazier to us men is thisadvice: Comport yourself with dig-nity, and have the courage andimagination to present yourself asan individual. Define your own fash-ion—don’t let fashion define you.

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MODERN ENGLISHFew countries can put on a show like England, wherepageantry is a way of life. Naturally, uniforms are anintegral part of the spectacle. And uniforms did much toinspire Savile Row tailoring, designed to make a manlook classic and well-proportioned. Historically, wellturned-out gentlemen around the world have looked toSavile Row for the style and structure of their suits. Thisyear the legendary street is advocating natural shoul-ders, two-button jackets, double-breasted suits, flatfronttrousers and patterns such as checks and plaids. Menwho shop in America’s finest men’s stores can buySavile Row-inspired suits right here in the U.S.

ROYAL WELCOMEIf a stark, modern high-rise hotel isn't your cup of tea, try The Goring.Quintessentially English, gently unconventional, and right around thecorner from Buckingham Palace, the five-star Goring dates back to 1910and is still owned and run by the same family. The charismatic staff wearsbright blue or pink ties decorated with sheep and welcomes guests likeold friends. The decor is magnificently traditional, the amenities state ofthe art. There's even a historical connection with the States: During WorldWar I the hotel was headquarters for American officers stationed inLondon. A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, The Goring isn'tjust a place to sleep, it's a lovely part of the London experience.

MYSTERY TOURWhile Kensington Palace undergoes renovations this spring inpreparation for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee, the historic royalhome will become "The Enchanted Palace," a unique experi-ence combining fashion, live theatre and spectacle. Mysteriouscharacters will lead visitors on a journey through the palace tolearn its tales of love and hate, surprise and sadness, secretsand jealousy. In the magnificent state apartments, guests willencounter a series of installations featuring contemporaryfashion by both leading and up-and-coming designers,inspired by the palace’s Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection.

“The man who is tired of London is tired of life.”—Samuel JohnsonBy Donald Charles Richardson

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ANTIQUE FANCY A pleasant stroll down historic KensingtonChurch Street offers the chance to visit over60 antiques shops. Stop in at Rafferty &Walwyn Ltd. and discover a captivating col-lection of period English clocks from the17th to 19th centuries crafted in mahogany,walnut, ebony, tortoiseshell, ormolu, brass, ormarble. Ask the owners to let you chose oneof six different songs to play on the fancifulmusical bracket clock by Benjamin Barberwhen, on the hour, the windmill turns, loversdisappear behind a curtain and a drummerstrikes the time. Right down the street,there's Michael German Antiques Ltd.,where you'll find a striking collection of over1,000 canes. A standout from 1880 has a tor-toiseshell veneer shaft and an 18K gold han-dle inset with precious stones. Clocks andcanes make wonderful gifts or souvenirs and(traveler's tip) if you buy one over 100 yearsold, you don't have to pay duty.

HAIR APPARENTThe tradition of British barbering goes back over two centuries. Today, the latestexponent of the craft bows politely to the institution while making a clear cut intothe future. Murdock London Barbers and Gentleman's Grooming has three loca-tions in the trendiest and most fashionable parts of the city. They offer the classicshave with badger brush, moustache and beard trims, and beard re-shaping as wellas a conservative hair trim, manicure and shoe polishing. More than a staid Britishbarbershop, these artists can also modernize your look with a contemporary hair-cut. Make it your first stop to improve for all those vacation photographs.

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SCOTTISH LAIRFuture chief of the legendary Macdonald clan, Ranald Macdonald is also the captainof Boisdale of Belgravia, one of London's most memorable restaurants. You cansavor a simple meal at the bar or dine lavishly on Scottish salmon, the game of theday, or grass-fed Aberdeen beef. There's an impressive wine list that ranges fromVina del Alba Albarino by the glass for £5.75 to a 1999 Richebourg Gros Frere etSoeur for £290 a bottle, along with superb clarets and ports, a separate whiskey list,and a dessert menu featuring roast Victorian plums. The Boisdale Cigar Terrace onthe roof boasts cigars from all over the world (including 120 different sizes and vin-tages of Cuban cigars). To keep the aficionado comfortable, the lounge featurescushions, sofas and armchairs in the traditional Macdonald tartan and cashmereblankets in Boisdale livery brought over especially from Scotland.

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ervice trips have beentrendy for a few years,so by now most peo-ple know that a “vol-untour” offers theopportunity to giveback all over the

world. But with working Americanslogging more hours than ever in atough economy, all but the mostselfless among us are craving funwhen we finally get time off.

Luckily, it’s no longer necessary toforego a good time when voluntour-ing. A new wave of trips has met thedemand for service paired with theperfect amount of letting loose.Planeterra, a non-profit eco-tourismfirm, recently added new “indepen-dent tours” to its roster, allowing trav-elers to combine four or more days ofvolunteer work with adventure activi-ties, sightseeing and downtime. Saysdirector Richard G. Edwards, “Our pro-grams are designed with great care, sothat everyone genuinely benefits whilehaving fun learning about each other’scultures.”

Think of voluntourism as the

chance to go somewhere you would-n’t have gone otherwise, or tobecome more deeply immersed in aplace you’ve always dreamed of vis-iting. A senior-level business man-ager by day, Leslie Oman of Torontohad bigger dreams. “I made it a per-sonal goal to see all of the NewSeven Wonders of the World,” shesays, “and I thought it would begreat to combine my travels withvolunteering all over the world.”The first spot on Oman’s list wasMacchu Picchu, and after someresearch, she found an itinerary thatprovided the best of both worlds. “Iwas hoping to really learn about theculture when I visited. On mosttrips to Peru, you fly in, get on abus, and by day two you’re alreadyhiking the Inca Trail. Then youleave the next day. But on my trip,we worked for several days in an at-risk children’s center, then we wentto a village in the Sacred Valley andstayed with a “village Mama,” help-ing with the crops and meal prepa-ration. By the time I was hiking theInca Trail, I had a deep understand-

The mostrewardingexperiencein anydestinationis gettingto knowthe localpeople,learningfirsthandabout theirculture

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BECOME MORE DEEPLY IMMERSEDIN A PLACE YOU’VE ALWAYSDREAMED OF VISITING.

Voluntourism gets a much-needed dose of fun. By Jillian Sprague

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ing of the culture, history and strug-gles of the people of Peru.”

If you don’t have a specific desti-nation in mind, choose a voluntourthat lets you follow your passion.Animal lovers can travel withBiosphere Expeditions to monitorwolf and lynx populations in theTatra Mountains of Slovakia. Moreof a humanitarian? AsiaTranspacific Journeys will send youto Myanmar, where you’ll makeceramic water filters that providedrinking water to underdevelopedparts of rural Asia.

When you’ve had fun, exploredyour interests and done somethingto help those who really need it, you

can feel good about yourself andreturn to the daily grind withrenewed energy—and unforgettablememories.

For information on these andother itineraries, check out planeter-ra.org, biosphere-expeditions.organd asiatranspacific.com.

Head tobeautifulCosta Ricafor somefun in thesun as youcare fornesting seaturtles andtheir eggs

“BY THE TIME I WAS HIKING THE INCA TRAIL, I HAD A DEEP UNDERSTANDING OF THE CULTURE, HISTORY AND STRUGGLES OF THE PEOPLE OF PERU.”

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SMOKIN’!

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lthough cigar smoking is still a controversial andpolitically charged topic, cigar smokers are moreenthusiastic than ever about their passion. For thisreason, charity events disguised as “Gentlemen’s

Nights” have become hugely successful across the country.Upscale establishments that offer rare stogies from presti-gious makers along with premium bourbon, beer and bisonshare wonderful tales of camaraderie, storytelling andlaughter. Here, we chat with an important couple in thecigar industry: Arturo and Vienna Fuente. Arturo’s fatherstarted the Tampa Sweethearts Cigar Company in Tampa;his brother now continues it in the Dominican Republic.

How’s business?Arturo: Compared to what? Remember, Ybor City (Tampa)was once the cigar capital of the world, with 12,000 workersand 700 million cigars produced annually… The challengerecently has been local, state and federal regulation: bothno-smoking laws and the increased tobacco tax, which is G

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An old ritual, a new generation…By Karen Alberg Grossman

‘‘Cigar smoking isnot just a passion, it’sa celebration of life!”—Vienna Fuente

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now a dollar per cigar versus fivecents. That said, we’ve been busy.We were hit hard when the tax hap-pened in April but since then, it’scoming back little by little…Why do you think that is?Vienna: People anticipated the taxand began hoarding cigars but bynow, the stash is running out. Withthe recession, they might buy moreeconomically but they’re still buy-ing. Cigar smoking is not just a pas-sion, it’s a celebration of life! It’salso a status thing. And a socialthing. It’s a whole ritual that’sextremely satisfying. Sounds like you’re a cigar smoker…

ienna: I didn’t start until threeyears ago. I was with a friend ata club on a Friday night andpeople were sitting around out-side the restaurant, relaxingwith after-dinner drinks, coffeeand cigars. Cigar smoking isnot so much about smoking

(after all, you don’t inhale) and moreabout taking your time, being withfriends and family, really connectingand talking to each other. It’s aboutsharing and bonding and relaxing.I understand Arturo is retiring.Arturo: I’m semi-retired…Vienna: We’re realistic. There’s a 25-year age difference between us,we’ve been married just a year andwe want to travel and spend timetogether. My husband’s son ArturoJr. has been very involved in thebusiness so he’s the perfect personto take it to the next level. Otherfamily members (nephews, grand-children) are also contributing theirtalents. How much do you smoke?Arturo: I’m a social cigar smoker: afew times a month Vienna and Ishare a cigar.Do you enjoy Gentlemen’s Night events?Vienna: Tremendously. For me, it’s

about pride. I’m always amazed byhow people react to Arturo: every-one seems in awe of this wonderfulhumble man and his connection tothe cigar business. People want tolearn from him so we always makenew friends. In Louisville, we met somany great people; we can’t wait togo back for Derby!What makes a great cigar?Arturo: There are many factors toconsider, the first of which is one’spersonal taste. Then there’s thelength of the ash. There are twokinds of cigar fillers: long and short.My father always liked a short fillerthat was a blend of pieces from vari-ous other cigars. Then there’s thestrength to consider, and whetherthe cigar is full bodied, whether ithas a dark or light wrapper. (The

wrapper is what gives the flavor; Ipersonally like a mixture of darkand light.) Then there’s the body.Feel the cigar from top to bottom; ifthere’s a bump or an empty space,it’s no good. Then there’s the draw:it can’t be too tight or too loose.Bottom line, a great cigar is aboutpersonal taste, flavor, strength and aconsistent, smooth burn. Any other passions, besides cigars?Arturo: My primary passion is myfamily: I feel very lucky to havethem both in my business and in mylife. Beyond that, I really love niceclothes. Some of my favorites arefrom Burberry, Nat Nast, RobertGraham and Zegna. I have to admitthat after the Gentlemen’s Nightevent at Rodes, I stayed late at thestore for some major shopping!

“MY FATHER WOULD SMOKE TEN CIGARS ADAY WITH HIS COFFEE: HE HAD TO TEST ALLHIS BRANDS.”—ARTURO FUENTE

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Effortless dressing never looked so good.By Beth Bernstein

Before Paolo, I’d never met a guywhose suits, shirts and accessorieswere custom made. Since highschool, I had dated a certain type:creative and soulful with a some-what disheveled wardrobe to match.I finally realized these were not thekind of guys likely to commit tomuch beyond poetry readings.

Paolo seemed perfect in everyway. During our first dinner togeth-er, I noticed the small initials sewninto his suit jacket, the intricateenamel cuff links, the vintage watchand the beautiful eggplant silk tie. Iwas also falling in love with the sexyaccent, the dry wit and the confi-dence with which he ordered dinner.

Our next outing was casual—heshowed up wearing Levi’s 501s and aT-shirt. Like many Italian-born men,he was able to pull it off effortlessly.What is it about Italian culture thatallows men to care about fashionand grooming without stigma?

“When I turned 17, my father pre-sented me with a beautiful Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece,” Paolo oncetold me. “We lived in Milan andmany of the boys receive watches asgraduation gifts.” In contrast, myAmerican-born brothers received

down payments for their first cars.Today, they still think that dressingfor dinner means putting on a Gapsport shirt rather than a favoritefootball jersey.

As our relationship evolved, Ilearned of Paolo’s penchant for mix-ing colors, for knowing the differ-ence between cordovan and choco-late brown. He never got boredwhile I tried on clothes, making surethat the shoulders on a lambskinjacket fit me perfectly and that theleather was hand-stitched. For Paolo,it wasn’t about labels or impressingpeople. It was about personal styleand an inherent ability to dress witha certain nonchalance.

Ultimately, it was this noncha-lance that did us in. Although hecould easily commit to French cuffs,Paolo was no closer to making acommitment to me than the artistictypes of my past had been. He wasthe wrong man in the right clothes.

Still, I have hope. While Americanmen I meet these days rarely dressas well as Paolo, I’m noticing morecashmere and custom tailoring thanever before. And that cute guy whojust smiled at me? He’s wearing cufflinks with his 501s. I’m smiling back.

He was thewrong manin the rightclothes.

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September/October 2008$4.25

Louisville’s FinestHomes, Dining, Travel, Wine, Antiques & More

Louisville’s Finest Magazineslmag.net

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celebrating

Style and Performance

MARIANO RIVERA wears the new Kei Jacket

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