Page 2 of 2 ShopNotes No. 79 2004 August Home Publishing. All
rights reserved.
Tool Cart CaseA Sides (2) 181/2 x 35 - 3/4 Ply.B Edging 3/4 x
3/4 - 10 Lnr. Ft.C Top/Bottom (2) 18 x 261/2 - 3/4 Ply.D Rails (3)
3/4 x 21/4 - 26E Back (1) 26 x 281/4 - 3/4 Ply.F Support Blocks (2)
3/4 x 11/4 - 171/2G Caster Blocks (2) 11/2 x 31/2 - 171/2
Tool Cart Drawers & ShelfH Drawer Front/Back (2) 1/2 x 23/4
- 241/2I Drawer Sides (2) 1/2 x 23/4 - 17J Drawer Btms. (5) 161/2 x
241/2 - 1/4 Hdbd.K Drawer Front/Back (2) 1/2 x 33/4 - 241/2L Drawer
Sides (2) 1/2 x 33/4 - 17M Drawer Front/Back (2) 1/2 x 43/4 -
241/2N Drawer Sides (2) 1/2 x 43/4 - 17O Drawer Front/Back (2) 1/2
x 53/4 - 241/2P Drawer Sides (2) 1/2 x 53/4 - 17Q Drawer Front/Back
(2) 1/2 x 63/4 - 241/2R Drawer Sides (2) 1/2 x 63/4 - 17S False
Front (1) 3/4 x 3 - 253/4T False Front (1) 3/4 x 4 - 253/4U False
Front (1) 3/4 x 5 - 253/4
V False Front (1) 3/4 x 6 - 253/4W False Front (1) 3/4 x 7 -
253/4X Optional Shelf (1) 13 x 257/8 - 3/4 Ply.Y Optional Shelf
Edging 3/4 x 3/4 - 257/8
Tool Chest CaseA Sides (2) 131/2 x 63/4 - 3/4 Ply.B Divider (1)
123/4 x 53/8 - 3/4 Ply.C Top/Bottom (2) 121/4 x 243/4 - 3/4 Ply.D
Drawer Runners (8) 1/2 x 1/4 - 123/4E Edging 1/2 x 3/4 - 4 Lnr.
Ft.F Upper Front Rail (1) 3/4 x 1 - 241/4G Lower Front Rail (1) 3/4
x 13/8 - 241/4H Center Stile (1) 3/4 x 3/4 - 47/8I Upper Back Rail
(1) 3/4 x 1 - 241/4J Lower Back Rail (1) 1/2 x 13/8 - 241/4K Back
(1) 63/4 x 243/4 - 1/4 Hdbd.
Tool Chest DrawersL Drawer Fronts/Backs (8) 1/2 x 21/4 - 111/8M
Drawer Sides (8) 1/2 x 21/4 - 121/2N Drawer Bottoms (4) 111/8 x 12
- 1/4 Hdbd.O False Fronts (4) 3/4 x 211/32 - 115/8
Materials
If youve already made the jackplane featured on page 32 of
issueNo. 79, this block plane will be apiece of cake. The
construction isvery similar to the jack plane, onlysimpler. (Take a
look at theExploded View drawing below tosee what Im talking
about.)
Brass Body. Just like the jackplane, the first step in building
theblock plane is to make the brassbody of the plane. I started by
cut-ting blanks for the sides and sole ofthe plane from 1/8"-thick
brassstock. Figure 2 shows the dimen-sions for the blanks as well
asthe layout for the box joints. (Youcan also download full-size
pat-terns for the brass parts of theplane, as well as the knob
andhandle that are added later.)
The box joints are cut on thetable saw, using a jig and a
specialcarbide-tipped blade that isdesigned to cut non-ferrous
metals. Since the box joints on thisplane are the same size as
the boxjoints on the jack plane, you canuse the same jig to make
them.(Refer to page 16 in issue No. 79for more information on
makingand using the box joint jig.)
Once youve cut the box joints,
go ahead and cut the sides ofthe plane to shape on the bandsaw.
Then cut the sole in twopieces to create the mouth of theplane (see
Figure 2). Now youreready to solder the brass piecestogether. (You
can find detailedinstructions on how to do this in
brass-bodyBlock Plane
HHaarrddwwaarree (1) 1/8" x 2" Flat Brass Bar Stock (2' long)
(1) 1/4"-dia. Brass Rod (17/8" long) (1) Stainless Steel Knurled
Knob (1/4" threads) (1) 1/4"-dia. Threaded Rod (11/8" long) (1)
1/4" T-Nut (1) 11/2"-wide Plane Blade
EXPLODED VIEW1
Page 1 of 2 ShopNotes No. 79 2004 August Home Publishing. All
rights reserved.
Online Extras
the Working with Brass articleon page 37 of issue No. 79.)
Knob & Handle. Afterremoving any excess solder fromthe box
joints and cleaning up thebrass body, youre ready to makethe wood
parts of the plane thefront knob and the rear handle.Both of these
are made from gluedup blanks. You can cut the blanksto rough shape
based on the pat-terns provided. Then use rasps,files, and
sandpaper to finishshaping these pieces.
Brass Pin. The handle and knobwill get glued into the body of
theplane with epoxy. Before doing thishowever, I added the brass
crosspin for the lever cap (see Figure 1).
This pin is installed by turningthe plane on its side and
drilling a1/4"-dia. hole through both sides.Then after inserting
the pin, theends are peened over to rivet thepin in place. Finally,
file the endsflush with the sides of the plane.(This is covered in
depth in theWorking with Brass article.)
When it comes to gluing theknob and handle into the body ofthe
plane, no matter how neat youtry to be, youll probably wind upwith
a little bit of epoxy squeezeoutto clean up. You can scrape andsand
this off once its dry.
Theres one thing to mentionwhen it comes to adding thehandle.
The blade will rest on the
handle, so you want to make surethat the face of the handle is
flushwith the beveled edge of the throatopening in the sole of the
plane. Ifits not, a small file and some sand-paper can fix the
problem.
The last step to complete theplane is to add the blade and
levercap. For more on making the levercap, see the box below.
The lever cap is nothing morethan a hardwood wedge with aknob at
one end. The cap slipsunderneath the cross pin in thebody plane. By
tightening the
knob, the edge of the cap isforced down against the
blade,holding it in place.
The trick to making the levercap is to start with an
extra-long,squared-up blank and drill allthe holes first. Then you
cantaper the blank to create thewedge shape of the lever cap.
Start by drilling a counter-bored hole for the T-nut (seedrawing
at left). To create therounded groove in the front ofthe lever cap
for the brass crosspin, drill a hole through theedge of the
blank.
Using a band saw,stand the blank on edgeand cut the cap to
itswedge shape. Then cutthe curved profile at thetop of the blank
and sandit smooth. Finally, add theT-nut and knob.
MMaakkiinngg tthhee LLeevveerr CCaapp
FIGURE2
a.
Page 2 of 2 ShopNotes No. 79 2004 August Home Publishing. All
rights reserved.
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