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Wet process ing or dyeing is the important aspect for text i le industry. During this processing many parameters have to control for get t ing desirable qual i ty . One of the most important parameter in dyeing is wash fastness of the fabrics or the dyed mater ial . I f this parameter is not good then the qual i ty of the product and every other process related with the process ing whatever i t is pretreatment or af ter t reatment is waste out .

In This report we try to evaluate the wash fas tness of different fabrics incase of di fferent shade percentage

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Reactive dyes:

Reac t ive dyes f i r s t appeared commerc ia l ly i n 1956 , a f t e r the i r inven t ion in 1954 by Ra t tee and S tephens a t the Imper i a l Chemica l Indus t r i es Dyes tu f f s Div i s ion s i t e i n B lack ley , Manches te r , Uni ted Kingdom .

Reac t ive dyes a re used to dye ce l lu los ic f ib res . The dyes con ta in a r eac t ive g roup , e i t he r a ha lo he te rocyc le o r an ac t iva t ed doub le bond , t ha t , when app l ied t o a f ib re in an a lka l ine dye ba th , fo rms a chemica l bond wi th an hydroxy l g roup on the ce l lu los ic f ib re . Reac t ive dye ing i s now the mos t impor tan t method fo r the co lo ra t i on o f ce l lu los ic f ib res .

Reac t ive dyes can a l so be app l ied on wool and ny lon ; in t he l a t t e r c ase they a re app l i ed under weak ly ac id ic cond i t ions . Reac t ive dyes have a low u t i l i z a t i on degree compared to o ther types o f dyes tu f f , s ince the func t iona l g roup a l so bonds to wate r , c rea t ing hydro lys i s .

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Function of reactive Dyes

Dyestu f f s wi th on ly one func t iona l g roup somet imes have a low degree o f f ixa t i on . To overcome th i s dyes tu f f s con ta in ing two d i f fe ren t r eac t ive g roups ( i . e . one monoch loro t r i az in and one v iny l su l fone ) we re c rea ted .

Dyes tu f f s con ta in ing two g roups a re a l so known as b i func t iona l dyes tu f f s , though some s t i l l r e fe r s t o the o r ig ina l combina t ion . O ther types o f b i func t iona l dyes has been in t roduced . The f i r s t b i func t iona l dye made whe re more to le ran t to t empera tu re dev ia t i ons (be t t e r p rocess) . O the r b i func t iona l s a re c rea ted , some wi th fas tne ss (be t t e r qua l i ty ) o r on ly f i xa t ion degree (be t t e r env i ronment / economy) in mind .

Reac t ive dyes have good fas tness p roper t i es owing to the bond ing tha t occurs dur ing dye ing . Co t ton i s made o f ce l lu lose molecu le s which reac t wi th the dye .Dur ing reac t ive dye ing the H a tom in the ce l lo lose molecu le combines wi th t he c l a tom in the dye ing p rocess and reu l t s in a bond . Tr i func t iona l dyes tu f f s a l so ex i s t

╬► Reactive dyes are categorized by functional group[1].

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Functional group Fixation Temperature Included in Brands

Monochlorotriazine Haloheterocycle 80˚Basilen E & PCibacron EProcion H,HE

Monofluorochlorotriazine Haloheterocycle 40˚ Cibacron F & C

Dichlorotriazine Haloheterocycle 30˚ Basilen MProcion MX

Difluorochloropyrimidine Haloheterocycle 40˚ Levafix EADrimarene K & R

Dichloroquinoxaline Haloheterocycle 40˚ Levafix E

Trichloropyrimidine Haloheterocycle 80-98˚ Drimarene X & ZCibacron T

Vinyl sulfone activated double bond 40˚ Remazol

Vinyl amide activated double bond 40˚ Remazol

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In the below the wash fastness test with reactive dyes as dark, medium and light shade of different fabrics is below

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Colorfastness to wash

Shade types: Deep

Fabrication: Single Jersey

Name of color: Black Standard

Dyed Fabrics Before Washing Dyed fabrics After Washing

Multi-Fiber Fabric

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Results:SL Description of Test Test Results

1 Colorfastness to washing method followed:ISO 105 C06: 1994- Single Test A2 with 4 gm/liter “ ECE” detergent and 1 gm/liter sodium per borate solution- machine wash at 40º C.

GradeColor change in shade 4.5Staining in Acetate 4.5Cotton 4.5Polyamide 4.5Polyester 4.5Acrylic 4.5Wool 4.5

Remarks:Fastness Grade Shade change of

tested sampleFastness white sample

Staining of Adjacent

Grade-4.5 Slight loss in depth Good Very slight staining

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Shade types: Deep

Fabrication: Single Jersey

Name of color: Black Standard

Dyed Fabrics Before Washing Dyed fabrics After Washing

Multi-Fiber Fabric

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Colorfastness to water

Results:SL Description of Test Test Results

1 Colorfastness to washing method followed:ISO 105 C06: 1994- Single Test A2 with 4 gm/liter “ ECE” detergent and 1 gm/liter sodium per borate solution- machine wash at 40º C.

GradeColor change in shade 4.5Staining in Acetate 4.5Cotton 4.5Polyamide 4.5Polyester 4.5Acrylic 4.5Wool 4.5

Fastness Grade Shade change of tested sample

Fastness white sample

Staining of Adjacent

Grade-4 Slight loss in depth Good Very slight staining

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Colorfastness to Perspiration

Shade types: Deep

Fabrication: Single Jersey

Name of color: Black Standard

Dyed Fabrics Before Washing Dyed fabrics After Washing

Multi-Fiber Fabric

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ACID MEDIUM

Result :SL Description of Test Test Results

1 Colorfastness to washing method followed:ISO 105 C06: 1994- Single Test A2 with 4 gm/liter “ ECE” detergent and 1 gm/liter sodium per borate solution- machine wash at 40º C.

GradeColor change in shade 4.5Staining in Acetate 4.5Cotton 4.5Polyamide 4.5Polyester 4.5Acrylic 4.5Wool 4.5

Remarks:Fastness Grade Shade change of

tested sampleFastness white sample

Staining of Adjacent

Grade-4 Slight loss in depth Good Very slight staining

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ALKALINE MEDIUM

Shade types: Deep

Fabrication: Single Jersey

Name of color: Black Standard

Dyed Fabrics Before Washing Dyed fabrics After Washing

Multi-Fiber Fabric

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Results:SL Description of Test Test Results

1 Colorfastness to washing method followed:ISO 105 C06: 1994- Single Test A2 with 4 gm/liter “ ECE” detergent and 1 gm/liter sodium per borate solution- machine wash at 40º C.

GradeColor change in shade 4.5Staining in Acetate 4.5Cotton 4.5Polyamide 4.5Polyester 4.5Acrylic 4.5Wool 4.5

Remarks:

Fastness Grade Shade change of tested sample

Fastness white sample

Staining of Adjacent

Grade-4 Slight loss in depth Good Very slight staining

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COLORFASTNESS TO TORUBBINGMETHOD: SEN ISO 105*12

Shade types: Deep

Fabrication: Single Jersey

Name of color: Black Standard

DRY WET

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Grade= 4.5 Grade= 4.5

ICI PILLING TESTMETHOD: BSEN 12945-1

Shade types: Deep

Fabrication: Single Jersey

Name of color: Black Standard

DRY WET

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Grade= 4.5 Grade= 4.5

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ISOThe stability of color or its fastness is one of the most important

requirements of valuable customers. During use, a dyed material is exposed to a variety of agencies that can cause its color fade i.e. the color decay from deeper to paler shade. These changes occur because of decomposition of the dye molecules in the fibre or because of their removal into the external medium. The colored textiles show different resistance power to different agencies such as light, wash, rubbing, perspiration, water, bleach, acid, alkali etc. and the aspect of these agencies many colorfastness tests are using to determine the stability of color in textile.

Dyed and printed materials are affected by some agencies such as washing, light, water, dry cleaning, chlorine, perspiration and ironing. Color fastness is the resistance of the color to fade or bleed by these agencies.

Fastness test are described in detail in documents from professional organizations such as the society of dyers and colorists (SDC), British standards (BS), the American association of textile chemists and colorists (AATCC) and the American society for testing and materials (ASTM). Decides many countries have own national color fastness testing standards but unfortunately, conditions for a given test still vary considerably. Most European countries adopt the fastness standards of the international organization for standardization as their national standards. Hopefully, the continuing work of the ISO will lead to greater acceptance of such international standards.Color fastness is usually assessed separately with respect to:1. Change in the color of the specimen being tested that is color fading.2. Staining of undyed material which is in contact with the specimen during

the test that is bleeding of color.In order to give numerical assessment of each of these effects two sets of standard grey scales are used, one for color change and another for color staining

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AATCCColorfastness testing method

The Amer ican associa t ion of tex t i le chemis ts and color is ts (AATCC) is an associa t ion of the profess iona ls and research of tex t i le chemis t ry . This associa t ion has a lso developed many s tandards for te s t ing and qual i ty contro l in tex t i le and appare l indus t ry which a re used and fo l lowed as “ text i le b ib le” around the wor ld today. Amer ican socie ty for tes t ing mater ia l (ASTM) is another organiza t ion which tes ts the qual i ty leve l of d i f fe rent mater ia ls inc luding text i l e and appare ls .

AATCC colorfastness evaluation System

For eva lua t ion the co lo r fa s tness o f a co lo red t ex t i l e AATCC in t roduce two 9 -s t ep g rey sca l e one fo r eva lua t ion the change in shade and o ther fo r eva lua t ion the s ta in ing o f co lo r to the ad jacen t f abr ic .

╬► Gray Scale Rating for Color Change:

Grade-5: negligible or no change at shown in changing gray scale step 5.

Grade-4.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale sped 4-5.

Grade-4: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 4.

Grade-3.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 3-4.

Grade-3: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 3.

Grade-2.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 2-3.

Grade-2: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 2.

Grade-1.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 1-2.

Grade-1: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 1.

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╬► Relation between colorfastness grade (changing) to total color difference CILAB units (∆E):

Fastness grade CIELAB color difference toleranceValue (∆E) CIELAB (∆E)

5 0.0 +0.2 4-5 0.8 ±0.24 1.7 ±0.3 3-4 2.5 ±0.33 3.4 ±0.42-3 4.8 ±0.52 6.8 ±0.61-2 9.6 ±0.71 13.6 ±1.0

╬► Gray scale rating for staining:

Grade-5: negligible or no change at shown in changing gray scale step 5.Grade-4.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale sped 4-5.Grade-4: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 4.Grade-3.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 3-4.Grade-3: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 3.Grade-2.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 2-3.Grade-2: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 2.Grade-1.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 1-2.Grade-1: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 1.

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╬► Relation between colorfastness grade (staining) to total color difference CLELAB units (∆E):

Fastness grade CLELAB color difference Tolerance Value (∆E) CIELAB (∆E)

5 0.0 + 0.2 4-5 2.2 ± 0.34 4.3 ± 0.3 3-4 6.0 ± 0.43 8.5 ± 0.52-3 12.9 ± 0.72 16.9 ± 1.01-2 24.0 ± 1.51 34.1 ± 2.0

NOTE: staining can evaluate by AATCC chromatic transference scale also.

The dyed specimen, measur ing 10cm*4 cm as before i s sewn together wi th two pieces measur ing 5cm*4cm. One p iece i s of the same mater ia l as the spec imen.

If the first piece be the second piece must be

Cotton ViscoseLinen ViscoseViscose CottonCellulose acetate ViscosePolyamide Viscose or cottonPolyester Viscose or cottonAcrylic Viscose or cotton

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If the first piece be the second piece must be Cotton viscose Linen viscose Viscose cotton Cellulose acetate (triacetate only) viscose Polyamide viscose or cotton Polyester viscose or cotton Acrylic viscose or cotton

The r i ns ing d ry ing and a ssessment o f t he sample o f the sample a re ca r r i ed ou t in exac t ly t he same manner a s was the case wi th t e s t 1 to 3 .

Af t e r t r ea tment the compos i t e sap les s a re i n every ca se r i nsed twice in co ld d i s t i l l ed wate r and then fo r 10 minu te s i n co ld runn ing tap wa te r . Af te r squeez ing , t he s t i t ch ing i s r emoved on the two long s ides one shor t s ide , l e av ing the dyed spec imen and the undyed ma te r ia l s sewn toge ther on ly a long one shor t s ide . The p ieces a re opened ou t and d r i ed in a i r a t a t empera tu re no t above 60 º C .

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Color fastness:

Color fastness in normal sense refers to the resistance of color of a dyed or printed textile to various types of influences (e.g. water, light, rubbing etc.) to which they are normally exposed in textile manufacturing and in practical sense. So we can say color fastness is the resistance of the color to fade or bleed by some agencies like washing light water chlorine perspiration ironing etc.

The stability of color or its fastness is one of the most important requirements of valuable customers. During use, a dyed material is exposed to verity of agencies that can cause its color fade i.e. the decay from deeper to paler shade. These changes occur because of decomposition of the dye molecules in the or because of their removal into the external medium.

The colored textiles show different resistance power to different agencies such as light wash rubbing perspiration water bleach acid alkali etc, and the aspect of these agencies many color fastness tests are using to determine the stability of color in textile.

Color fastness is usually assessed separately with respect to-

• Change in color of the specimen being rested, which color is fading.

• Staining of undyed material which is in contact with specimen during, that is color bleeding.

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╬► Color fastness tests used in textiles:

The out standing important property of a dyed material is the fastness of its shade. A number of tests are necessary to cover all the important properties of any one shade.AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) has described 66 color fastness tests which are available n the manuals of S.D.C (Society of Dyers and Colorists) and I.S.O. According to the agencies tending to fade the color shade, color fastness considered in different types-

1. Color fastness to Light.

2. Color fastness to Wash.

3. Color fastness to Rubbing.

4. Color fastness to Water.

5. Color fastness to Perspiration.

6. Color fastness to Sea-water.

7. Color fastness to Acid.

8. Color fastness to Alkalis.

9. Color fastness to Bleaches.

10. Color fastness to Mercerizing.

11. Color fastness to Cross-dyeing.

12. Color fastness to Anti-shrinkage treatment.

13. Color fastness to Heat and so on.

But of the above, the first five are more important.

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╬► Factors affecting the color fastness properties:

» The molecular structure (e.g.) of a dye molecule. If the dye molecule is larger in size, it will be tightly entrapped inside the inter-polymer chain space of a fiber. Thus the fastness will be better.

» The manner in which the dye is bonded to the fiber or the physical form present.

» The amount of dye present in the fiber i.e. depth of shade. A deep shade will be less fast than a pale or light shade.

» The chemical nature of the fiber. For example, cellulosic fibers dyed with reactive or vat dyes will show good fastness properties. Protein fibers dyed with acid mordant and reactive dyes will achieve good fastness properties and so on. That is to say compatibility of dye with the fiber is very important.» The presence of other chemicals in the material.» The actual conditions prevailing during exposure.

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Grey scale:

Grey scale is an empirical scale containing a series of pairs of neutrally colored chips, showing increasing contrast within pairs. It is used visually to assess contrasts between the pairs of patterns. For example, in order to give numerical assessment of color changing and staining two sets of standard grey scales are used.

The ISO grey scales have two series of chips against which the change of color of a specimen and that of staining of adjacent uncolored specimen can visually assessed and rated on a 1-5 scale.

The gradation of grey tones in the scales are defined in N.B.S.(National Bureau of Standards) unites, one unit being defined as the smallest difference in depth which is of commercial significance.

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Picture: Grey Scale

The difference in depth in shade i.e. the differences in NBS units are spaced geometrically. Here is eh chart showing difference in color in N.B.S units and corresponding fastness rating-

Color difference in N.B.S units Fastness rating0 54 48 316 232 1

Two sets of standard grey scales are used to assess color fastness.

1. One for assessing change in color.2. Other for staining.

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1. Color change grey scale: These scales consist of five pairs of grey colored material numbered from 1 to 5. Number 5 has two identical greys, number 1 shows the greatest contrast of two greys, and 2, 3, and 4 have intermediate contrast. After appropriate treatment the specimen is compared with the original and treatment material and any loss in color is graded with reference to the grey scale. When there is no change in the color of a test specimen it would be classified as ‘5’; if there is a change it is then classified with the number of the scale that shows the same contrast as that between the treated and untreated specimens.

2. Degree of Staining Grey Scale:

A different set of grey scale is used for measuring staining. Fastness fating 5 shows by two identical white samples (that is no staining) and rating 1 shows a white and a grey sample. The other numbers show the geometrical steps of contrast between white and a series of greys. A piece of unstained, undyed cloth is compared with the treated one that has been in contact with the test specimen during the staining test and a numerical assessment of staining is given.Note: These grey scales also consist another four intermediate grades (1-2, 2-3, 3-4, and 4-5).

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Brief description of the normal fastness grades:

Fastness Grade Shade change of tested sample

Fastness white sample

Staining of Adjacent

Grade-5 No change Excellent No staining

Grade-4 Slight loss in depth Good Very slight staining

Grade-3 Appreciable loss Fair Moderate staining

Grade-2 Significant loss Poor Significant staining

Grade-1 Great loss in depth Very poor Deep staining

The de te rmina t ion o f f a s tness p roper t i es can now be based on the quan t i t a t i ve measurement o f co lo r change in shade and examina t ion based on compar i son o f t he degree o f con t ras t wi th a Grey Sca le can resu l t in va r i a t ions in a ssessment among d i f fe ren t obse rvers . [CIELAB or CMC co lo r d i f fe rence can de t e rmine the fas tness g rade f rom E va lues o f t he ISO co lo r imet r ic s t andard i za t ion o f the Grey Sca le fo r co lo r change and s t a in ing . ]

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╬► R elation between CIELAB color differences for fading and staining and the grey scale fastness grades:

CIELAB color difference Color Fastness Grade Color

CIELAB Difference for Fading for Staining

<0.40 5 <1.10

0.40-1.25 4-5 1.10-3.25

1.25-2.10 4 3.25-5.15

2.10-2.95 3-4 5.15-7.25

2.95-4.10 3 7.25-10.25

4.10-5.80 2-3 10.25-14.45

5.80-8.20 2 14.45-20.45

8.20-11.60 1-2 20.45-29.05

>11.60 1 >29.05

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Colorfastness to Washing (ISO System):

The resistance to the loss of color of any dyed or printed material to washing is referred to as its wash fastness. If dye molecules have not penetrated inside the inter polymer chain space of fiber or have not attached to the fiber with strong attractive force, poor wash fastness result.

Fastness to washing is one of the important dyeing properties to the consumers. There is a variety of testing procedure to some extant, these have arisen because:

1. Washing conditions vary from one country to another.2. The method depends upon the use of the material being

used.3. To evaluate repeated washing, accelerated test methods

are used.

╬► The degree of fading and staining of a dyeing for washing depends upon the following factors:

1. The temperature: this may range from 20 to as high as 950 C.2. The type and amount of detergent that is added to the washing bath. This

may or may not include alkalis, phosphate, silicate, optical brightener, chlorine or peroxide bleach. In many testing procedures a standard detergent formulation is required.

3. The extent of mechanical action which can be varied by changing the agitation speed in a washing machine or by adding steel ball to revolving the bath.

4. The washing liquor to goods ratio and the hardness of the washing water.5. The rinsing, drying or pressing methods used to restore the sample after the

test.

╬► Principle:

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A specimen of the textile in contact with specified adjacent fabric or fabrics is laundered, rinsed and dried. Specimens are laundered under appropriate conditions of temperature, alkalinity, bleaching and abrasive action such that the result is obtained in a conveniently short time. The abrasive action is accomplished by the use of a low liquor ratio and an appropriate number of steel balls. The change in color of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric are assessed by recommended Grey Scales.

╬► Apparatus and Materials:

→ Wash-wheel with a thermostatically controlled water bath and rotating speed of 40±2 rpm.

→Stainless steel container (capacity 55±50 ml).

→Stainless steel ball (diameter = 0.6cm, Wt. =1 gm)

→ SDC (Society of Dyers and Colorist) Multi-Fiber Fabric (DW: Acetate, Cotton, Nylon, Polyester Acrylic, Wool; for 400C, 500C and certain test at 600C.

TV: triacetate, Cotton, Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Viscose; for certain test at 600C

and all test at 700 C and 950C).

→Non-dyeable fabric (e.g. polypropylene).

→Thermometer (0-1000C).

→Sewing machine.

→ Dryer.

→ISO type Grey Scale for Changing.

→ ISO type Grey Scale for Staining.

→Color Matching Cabinet (Light Box).

╬► Reagents:

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→ECE Reference Detergent (without optical brightener) for all countries where per borates are used in laundering.

→Sodium carbonate/ sodium per borate tetra hydrate.

→ Distilled / De-ionized water (Grade-3).

→Sodium hypochlorite.

→Acetic acid.

╬► Test specimen a. if the textile to be tested is fabric: cut out a specimen of 10cm

x 4cm and make sure all colors are included(if necessary use additional specimens) in it. Sew it along all four edges with the same size of multi-fiber fabric. This is the composite test specimen.

b. If the textile to be tested is yarn or loose fiber: take a mass of yarn or fiber approximately equal to one-half of the combined mass of the adjace4nt fabrics, then place between a 10cm x 4cm piece of multi-fiber fabric and a piece of 10cm x 4cm non-dyeable fabric and sew them along all four sides. This is the composite test specimen.

For test Method 1, 2 &3

If the first piece be the second piece must be Cotton Wool wool cotton silk wool linen wool Viscose wool Cellulose Acetate viscose Polyamide viscose or cotton

Polyester wool or cottonAcrylic wool or cotton

For test Method 4 & 5

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If the first piece be the second piece must be Cotton viscose Linen viscose Viscose cotton Cellulose acetate(triacetate only) viscose Polyamide viscose or cotton Polyester viscose or cotton Acrylic viscose or cotton

╬► Test Procedure (commercial laundering):

I.S.O. Recommendation No. 1 (ISO 105 C01):

The composite specimen is treated in a wash wheel or an equivalent apparatus at 40º±2 º C for 30 minutes, using the ECE color fastness test detergent 77(ISO std. soap)5 gm/liter to give a liquor ratio of 50:1.

I.S.O. Recommendation No. 2 (ISO 105 C02):

The composite specimen is treated in a wash wheel or an equivalent apparatus for 45 minutes at 50º± 2 º C, using the ECE color fastness test detergent 77(ISO std. soap)5 gm/liter to give a liquor ratio of 50:1.

I.S.O. Recommendation No. 3 (ISO 105 C03):

The composite sample is then treated in a wash wheel or equivalent apparatus at 60º ±2 º C for 30 minutes using the ECE color fastness test detergent 77(ISO std. soap)5 gm/liter and 2 gm/liter Soda Ash to give a liquor ratio of 50:1.

I.S.O. Recommendation No. 4 (ISO 105 C04):

The composite sample is then treated in a wash wheel or equivalent apparatus at 95º ±2 º C for 30 minutes using the ECE color fastness test detergent 77(ISO std. soap) 5 gm/liter and 2 gm/liter Soda Ash with 10 steel ball to give a liquor ratio of 50:1.

L.S.O. Recommendation No. 5 S (ISO 105 C05):

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The composite sample is then treated in a wash wheel or equivalent

apparatus at 95º ±2 º C for 4 hours using the ECE color fastness test detergent 77(ISO std. soap) 5 gm/liter and 2 gm/liter Soda Ash with 10 steel ball to give a liquor ratio of 50:1.

Fig: Gyrowash Machine

Fig: Light Chamber of Light box

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╬► The reagents and material are taken in a wash wheel and the recipes are as bellow-

Test method Temp(0C) Time M:L Ratio Steel balls Reagents

ISO-1 400±20C 30 min 1:50 0 Only soap (5 gm/lit)

ISO-2 500±20C 30 min 1:50 0 Only soap (5 gm/lit)

ISO-3 600±20C 30 min 1:50 0 Soap (5 gm/lit) + Anhydrous Sodium carbonate (2gm/L)

ISO-4 950±20C 30 min 1:50 10 Soap (5 gm/lit) + Anhydrous Sodium carbonate (2gm/L)

ISO-5 950±20C 4 hours 1:50 10 Soap (5 gm/lit) + Anhydrous Sodium carbonate (2gm/L)

╬► Washing solution preparation:

After preparing the sample for washing it is impregnated in the following parameters:

High grade soap solution (containing-

Free alkali calculated as Na2CO3=0.3% 5gm/lit

Free alkali calculated as NaOH=0.1%)ORIn case of commercially available,

ISO Reference Detergent

╬► Test procedure (based on ISO 105 C06, domestic laundering):

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→ Dissolve 4g of detergent into 1 liter of water.→ For test where PH value is specified (Table-2), add approximately 1g of sodium carbonate per liter of solution and cooled down the temperature to 200C before measuring PH.

→ For tests where perborate is employed, prepare the washing solution containing perborate (according to Table-2) at the time of use by heating the liquor to maximum of 600C for not more than 30 minute.→ For tests where sodium hypochlorite is employed (D3S and D3M), add to the wash liquor sufficient amount of sodium hypochlorite to provide the required concentration of available chlorine.→ For all test, except those at 700C and above with sodium perborate (D2S and E2S), preheat wash liquor to the specified temperature and add to each container the specific volume of wash liquor together with the correct number of steel balls required. Check whether the temperature of wash liquor in the container is correct. If not adjust it by using water bath or put into the machine to run for a few minutes. Then add to each contains one composite specimen.

→ For tests D2S and E2S with sodium perborate, preheat wash liquor to 600C only and then raise the temperature during washing to 700C ±20C or the specified temperature within10 minutes. The wash time in table-2 commences when the specified temperature is reached.

→ For all tests, remove specimen at the end of the wash and rinse twice for 1 minute in two separate 100ml of water at 400C.→ If souring is required, treat each specimen in a 100ml of acetic acid (0.2 g/l) for 1 minute at 300C. Then rinse each specimen in 100ml portion of water at 300C.

→ Extract excess water from specimen with white tissue paper or by squeezing.→ Dry the specimen:

(a) Hang dry specimen in air at a temperature no exceeding 600C.

(b) For specimen with bad color fastness property, dry specimen and adjacent fabric separately and then lay flat on tissue paper in the open air below 600C to prevent bleeding.

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or

Colorfastness to Washing(Home and Commercial Laundering Accelerated)

(Test method: AATCC 61-1996, Partly equivalent to ISO 105-C06)

1. Purpose and Scope The color loss of dyed fabric or changes it's surface color for the action of

detergent solution and abrasion of five hand, home or commercial launderings, with or without chorine, are roughly approximated by one 45-minute test.

2. Principle Specimens are tested under appropriate conditions of temperature, detergent

solution, bleaching and abrasive action, result the changes of color and staining of color to undyed adjacent material occurred which are evaluated by reference standard scales.

3. Apparatus, Reagents and Materials 3.1 Launder Ometer, Wash wheel (Laundering machine, hold stainless

steel container: 500 ml for test no. 1A and 1200 ml for test no.2A, 3A, 4A & 5A).

3.2 Stainless steel balls.3.3 AATCC type Gray scales for color change and staining or AATCC

Chromatic Transference Scale for staining.3.4 Undyed Adjacent Fabrics.3.4.1 Multifiber fabric No:1: (Contains bands of acetate. cotton, nylon, silk,

viscose, rayon and wool) can be used for specimen containing silk or viscose.3.4.2 Multifiber No. 10 or 10A: (Contains bands of acetate. cotton, nylon, silk,

viscose, rayon and wool) can be used for test no. 1A, 2A.3.4.3 Bleached cotton test fabric, 32 ends/cm 32 picks/cm construction, 136 ± 10

g/m2, desized without fluorescent whitening agent, can be used for test No.3A,

3.4.4 Size: 5cm 5cm for Multifiber no. 1 and 10 and bleached cotton, 5cm 10cm for Multifiber no. 10A. Since the staining is not determined for tests 4A and 5A, adjacent fabric is not required.

3.5 Detergent:

43

3.5.1 AATCC 1993 Reference Standard Detergent WOB (without fluorescent whitening agent and without phosphat).

3.5.2 AATCC 1993 Reference Standard Detergent WOB (without fluorescent whitening agent).

3.6 Water, distilled or demonized.3.7 Sodium hypochlorite (NaOC1 bleach).

3.8 Sodium carbonate (Na2CO3).

4. Test Specimens 4.1 The sizes of test specimen: 10.0cm 5.0cm for Test no.1A and 15.0 cm

5.0 cm for Test no. 2A, 3A. 4A and 5A. 4.2 To determine the staining in Test no. 1A, and 2A, use Multifiber test fabric,

To determine the staining in Test no. 3A, use either Multifiber fabric or Bleached cotton test fabric. With respect to test no. 3A, the use of Multifiber is optional but the staining of acetate, nylon, polyester and acrylic is overlooked unless one of these fibres is present in the fabric being tested or known to be in the final garment. For test 3A, Multifiber test fabric with heat-sealed edges is recommended. Staining is not determined in test no. 4A and 5A.

4.3 If textile to be tested is fabric: 4.3.1 Zize: 10cm 5cm for 1A, 15cm 5cm for other tests (Test no. 2A, 3A, 4A

and 5A).4.3.2 If fabric has more than one color, make sure all colors are included in the

specimen. If the colors are widely separated, more than one specimen must be produced.

4.3.3 If fabric consists of dark and light colors, additional specimen containing both dark and light potions must be produced for assessing cross staining. In such case, no adjacent fabrics are needed.

4.3.4 Overlock four edges of specimen except for fine gauge knitted fabric.4.3.5 Attach by sewn or stapled a suitable undyed adjacent fabric as follows:

(a) Multifiber No 1 and 10: Sew to the test specimen alone one 5cm edge and in contact with the face of the specimen. The fibre

44

stripes should be parallel to the length of the test specimen with wool on the right.

(b) Bleached Cotton: Sew to the test specimen alone one 5cm edge

and in contact with the face of the specimen.(c) Multifiber 10A: Sew the 10cm 5cm rectangle Multifiber test

fabric to the test specimen alone on 10cm and in contact with face of the specimen. The fibre stripes should be parallel to the widthwise direction of the test specimen.

4.3.6 It is recommended for knitted fabrics that they should be sewn or stapled at all four edges to a similar sized piece of bleached cotton test fabric to avoid the risk of rolled edges and to give a uniform result over the entire surface area.

4.4 If textile to be tested is yarn:4.4.1 Wind two 120yds skeins of esch colored yarn. Fold the skein

uniformly to meet the required size (mentioned before). Sew or stapled crockmeter test cloth squares or bleached cotton test fabric. Attach a Multifiber test fabric (as in 4.3.5).

4.5 If textile to be tested is in pile fabric form:4.5.1 Cut the specimen with a lay direction as described in 4.14.5.2 Overlock four edges if necessary to prevent fraying.4.5.3 Attach the Multifber fabric to (refer to 4.3.5) the specimen with the

pile lay direction pointing away from the top of the specimen.

5. Test Procedure 5.1 Adjust the launder-ometer to maintain the designated water bath

temperature and prepare the wash liquor as described in the table. Preheat this solution to the prescribed temperature.

5.2 Secure the appropriate containers into the launder - ometer. 5.3 For all tests place the appropriate number of steel balls into the

container (see Table-1) and for tests 1A. 2A and 3A. Add the designated amount of detergent solution (see Table-1).

5.4 For test 4A, add 45 ml of detergent solution and 5ml of 0.15% available chlorine solution (see footnote).

5.6 Clamp on the covers and run the machine for at least 2mins to pre-heat the containers.

45

5.7 Stop the machine with a row of containers upright. Unclamp and remove the lid of one container. Place a well-crumpled specimen into the solution and replace the lid but do not clamp it. Repeat this procedure with the other containers in the row and them clamp the lids in the order of loading (this delay in clamping is to allow equalization of pressure).

5.8 Repeat 5.7 with the remaining rows of containers (while the lids are off randomly check the temp of the detergent solution and if found incorrect repeat the pre-heating without specimens in the containers).

5.9 When all containers are loaded, start the machine and run for 45 mins.

5.10 Stop the machine, remove the containers and empty the contents into separate beakers. Rinse each test specimen three times in distilled or demonized water at 40 ± 30 C for one min periods with occasional stirring or hand squeezing.

5.11 Extract excess water and dry the specimen in air at not more than 710C.

5.12 Condition the specimen at 65 ± 2% Rh and 21 ±10C for one hour before evaluating.

Table -1 (Test Conditions):

Test No.

Temperature Total liquol volume

(ml)

Percent detergent of total volume

Available chlorine of

total volume

No.of steel balls

Time(min)0C 0F

1A 40 105 200 0.37 None 10 452A 49 120 150 0.15 None 50 453A 71 160 50 0.15 None 100 454A 71 160 50 0.15 0.015% 100 455A 49 120 150 0.15 0.027% 50 45

6. Evaluation:6.1 Evaluate the color change in the specimen against the AATCC

Changing Gray Scale under standard lighting, D65 (Artificial Daylight).6.2 Evaluate the staining of color to adjacent fabric (when applicable)

against the AATCC Staining Gray Scale or AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale under standard lighting(D65, Artificial Daylight)

46

7. Test Report:7.1 Report the test number.7.2 Report the grade given given for each specimen on color change

and staining to the Multifber or bleached cotton fabrics, as applicable.

7.3 Report whether WOB or 124 detergent was used.7.4 State which scale (Gray scale for staining or AATCC chromatic

Transference) was used in evaluating staining.7.5 State which Multifiber fabric was used and if the cotton fabric was

employed to avoid knits curling. Note: Standardization of Stock Sodium Hypochlorite Solution.Pipette 1. oml of stock sodium hypochlorite solution into 250ml flask and dilute to 100ml with distilled water add 20ml of 0.6N H2SO4 and 6ml of 12% KI. Titrate with 0.1N sodium thiosulfate solution until the yellow colour of iodine is nearly destroyed. add 1ml of 1% starch solution and continue to titrate until the blue colour entirely disappear.

Calculation

% available chlorine ml Na2S2O3 0.1N 0.0355 1.0 ml Specific gravity of NaOC1 solution

47

FORMAT FOR REPORTINGTypical example:

Sl. # Description of Test Test Result1. Colorfastness To Washing

Method Followed : AATCC 61-1996Test 1A, 45 min. Mechanical wash at 400C With 0.37% AATCC WOB detergent solution with 10 steel balls

GradeColor Change in Shade 3 - 4Staining on Acetate 4

Cotton 4` Polyamide 4

Polyester 4Acrylic 4Wool 4

** Interoperation of Grade: 5---Excellence 4—Good3—Fair 2—poor1—Very poor.

** Range of Testing/Limit of Detection: 1to 5 Grade ** Accuracy (+/-)

48

49

Colorfastness to Light

Introduction:

Now ada ys t he c r i t e r ion o f l i gh t f a s t ne s s i s a m a jo r c once rn amongs t t he dye r s .The s t r i ngen t r e qu i r eme n t o f l i gh t f a s tne ss i s ge t t i ng more and more i mpor t a nce i n t he Eu rope an a s we l l a s i n t he A mer i can marke t . I t i s ve ry much e s s en t i a l t o unde r s t and the d i f f e r en t t e s t me t hods , g r a d ing and f ac to r s a f f ec t i ng l i gh t f a s tne ss .Ge ne ra l l y i t i s d i f f i cu l t t o a ch i e ve good g rade o f l i gh t f a s t ne ss i n l i gh t , me d ium, t r i cky s hades v i z . , khak i , o l i ve , g r ey , b row ns e t c . A p rope r combina t ion a lw ays he lp s t o a r r i ve a t t he cus tom er r equ i r e men t .

Ge ne ra l l y tw o me t hods o f t e s t i ng a r e w ide ly a ccep t ed by mos t o f t he c us t omer s . They a r e :Am er i c an Tes t M e t hod (AA TCC 16E ) o r Op t ion 3Br i t i sh T es t M e thod ( IS O 105 /BO 2)

╬► Some more points that af fec t the fas tness of a pr inted fabric:

The f a s t ne s s t o l i gh t o f a p r in t i s no t gove rned s o l e ly by the co lo r a n t . I t i s a l s o ve ry depende n t on the c o lo r an t conce n t r a t i on , t he t h i ckne ss o f t he l aye r a nd the b inde r ; o the r f ac t o r s s uch a s t he spe c t r a l compos i t i on o f t he i nc i den t l i gh t and the a tm osphe r i c humi d i ty a l s o p l ay a ro l e . Cons equen t ly , i t i s ve ry d i f f i cu l t t o exac t ly qua n t i fy f a s t ne ss t o l i gh t . T he va l ues a r e m ere ly g i ven a s a gu i de t o fo rmu l a to r s i n c a r ry ing ou t t he i r own t e s t s .

50

AMERICAN TEST METHOD (AATCC 16E): Thi s i s an a cce l e r a t ed t e s t m e thod fo r t e s t i ng o f l i gh t f a s tne ss . The re a r e d i f f e r en t op t ions i n t h i s m e thod w h ich a r e A , B , C , D , E , F , G , H , I , J . Thes e op t ions d i f f e r f r om each o t he r on the ba s i s o f l i gh t sou rc e , pane l t em pera tu r e and humi d i ty . G ene ra l l y AA TCC 16E me t hod i s w i de ly u s ed fo r t e s t i ng pu rpos e . I n t h i s me t hod a t e s t spec ime n i s expos ed unde r t he cond i t i on s pec i f i ed i n va r i ous t e s t me thods fo r 20hour s , 40 hou r s o r 60 hou r s and the f a c to r s a f f ec t i ng l i gh t f a s t ne ss .Ge ne ra l l y fo r ga rme n t s ec t o r t he a s s e s sm en t o f l i gh t f a s tne ss i s done a f t e r 20A FU w here a s i n t he ca s e o f f u rn i sh i ng f ab r i c s , c a r upho l s t e ry t he g r ad i ng i s a s s e s s ed a f t e r 40 -60 AF U .

Grading:

Gra d ing o f l i gh t f a s tne ss i n t h i s me thod i s g i ven on the ba s i s o f g r ey s ca l e wi th r a t i ng o f 1 -5 . O ne be i ng poo r and the f i ve be i ng the be s t .Ra t i ng 3 i s no rma l ly acc ep ta b l e fo r mos t o f t he r equ i r emen t s .

Blue wool reference standard

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BRITISH TEST METHOD ( ISO 105/BO2)

The l i gh t f a s t ne s s o f dyed f a b r i c i s e va lua t ed by expos ing t he f ab r i c sa mp le s t o xe non ARC. E ven though t he l i gh t s ou rces a r e sa me , o t he r cond i t i ons a r e d i f f e r en t .

Grading:

The f a s t ne s s t o l i gh t i s t e s t ed i n acco rda nce w i t h DIN 16525 . The de g ree o f f ad i ng i s a s se ss ed by com par i s on w i th t he b lue sc a l e fo r woo l (DIN EN IS O 105 -B01) . T he f a s tne s s e s t o l i gh t r a t i ngs a r e a s f o l l ow s :

Ra t i ng Prope r ty 1 ve ry poo r 2 poo r 3 m ode ra t e 4 f a i r l y good 5 good 6 ve ry good 7 exc e l l e n t 8 ou t s t a nd ingThe re i s no d i r ec t r e l a t i on be tw een the r a t i ngs o f bo t h t he above me t hods . A A TCC 16E (op t ion 3 ) me thod (20A FU ) i s a qu i ck me t hod , wh i l e IS O 105 /BO 2 me t hod t akes muc h longe r t ime whe re l i gh t f a s tne s s r a t i ngs a r e h igh .

** Blue wool reference standard Description

of the Light Fastness Grades :

Fastness Grade Degree of Fading Light Fastness

Grade-8 Grade- 7 Grade-6 Grade-5

None Verv. very slight Slight Moderate

Outstanding Excellent Very Good Good

Grade-4 Grade-3 Appreciable Significant Moderate Fair

Grade-2 Extensive PoorGrade- 1 Verv extensive Very Poor

Note- Light source may use-1) Day light 2) Xenon Arc B02 3) Mercury-tungsten fluorescent lamp (MBTF) etc

52

53

Colorfastness to Perspiration (Test Method: AATCC 15 - 1997; Similar to ISO 105-E04)

1. Pu rp os e an d S cop e Thi s t e s t me t hod i s i n t e nded fo r u se i n de t e rmi n ing the

f a s tne s s o f Co lo red t ex t i l e s o f f ab r i c s , ya rn s o r f i b r e s t o t he e f f ec t s o f human

P e r sp i r a t i on .

2. Pr i nc ip l e A t ex t i l e c o lo r ed s pec i men i n con tac t w i th m u l t i f i be r t e s t

f ab r i c i s we t ou t i n a r t i f i c i a l pe r s p i r a t i on s o lu t i on unde r a f i xed p r e s su re and Tem pera t u r e . A f t e r cond i t i on i ng the s pec i men i s eva l ua t ed fo r c o lo r cha nge and co l o r s t a in i ng .

3. Apparatus and Materials3.1 Perspiration Tester (Perspirometer or equivalent device with glass

or plastic plates). 3.2 Electrical oven, thermostatically controlled (Drying incubator).3.3 L-Histamine mono-hydrochloride monohydrate.3.4 Sodium chloride (NaC1).3.5 Di-sodium Hydrogen phosphate (Na2HPO4) 3.6 Lactic acid.3.7 AATCC Gray Scale for color change and staining.3.8 Multifiber fabric no.10.3.9 pH Meter.3.10 Electronic balance.3.11 White AATCC blotting paper.3.12 Multifiber test fabric.

54

4 . Reagent Take 1000 ml vo lumet r ic f l a sk and f i l l up ha l f - fu l l w i th

d i s t i l l ed wate r Dis so lve c lea r ly t he requ i red chemica l s and then add ex t ra wa te r t o make i t 1000 ml so lu t ion .

Acid perspiration solution Amount

Sodium Chloride (NaC1) 10 ± 0.01 gmLactic acid, USP (United States Pharmacopoeia) 85% 1 ± 0.01 gmDisodium hydrogen phosphate, anyhydrous (Na2HPO4) 1 ± 0.01 gm 1-Histidine monohydrochloride 0.25 ± 0.001 gm Distilled water 1000 mlpH value (use pH meter) 4.3 ± 0.2

Note: Don't be use the perspiration solution of more than three days old.

5 . Tes t Spec imenCut spec imens o f 6 6 ± 2cm f rom the sample and equa l

s i ze o f mul t i f ibe r t e s t f ab r ic , and sew toge the r these . I f the f ibe r s in t he dyed fabr i c , a re no t p resen t i n the mul t i f ibe r t e s t f ab r ic , inc lude a undyed o r ig ina l f ab r ic wi th the spec imen and mul t i f ibe r t e s t f ab r ic l i ke a sandwich a ssembly ; co lo red spec imen p lace be tween mul t i f ibe r t e s t f ab r i c and undyed o r ig ina l f ab r ic .

55

6. Test Procedure 6.1 P lace the t es t specimen in a pe t r i - d i sh . Add f reshly prepared

Perspi ra t ion so lu t ion to a depth of 1 .5 cm in one pet r i - d ish . 6.2 Keep i t for 30 minutes a t room tempera ture .6.3 Occas ional ly agi ta te and squeeze to ensure tha t the specimen is soaked complete ly .6.4 Af ter 30 minutes take out the specimens and squeeze those to remove the excess so lu t ion so tha t the weight of the sample wi th mul t i f ibe r should be 2 .25 ± 0 .05 t imes of i t ' s or ig inal weight . P lace i t be tween two plas t ic p la tes .6.5 Lock the specimen uni t conta in ing the specimen wi th a se t sc rew under a pressure of 4 .5 kg ( inc luding the top p la te) .6.6 Put the perspi ra t ion tes ter in to an oven a t 38 + 1 0 C for 6 hrs .6.7 Af te r 6 hours remove the perspi ra t ion tes te r f rom the oven and take out the spec imens wi th mul t i t iber fabr ic .6.8 Dry the tes t fabr ic and mul t i f ibe r fabr ic separa te ly on a wi re sc reen in an a tmosphere of 21 ± 1 0 C and Rh 65 ± 5%

7. Evaluation 7.1 Assess the changes in color and straining in the Multifber of each specimen with

Gray Scale.Gary scale for color change AATCC Evaluation procedure 1Gray Scale for assessing staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2

8. Test Report Numerical rating for color change and staining of multifiber be assessed.

56

FORMAT FOR REPORTINGTypical Example:

Sl. # Description of Test Test Result

1.Color Fastness to perspirationMethod Followed : AATCC 15: 1997

GradeColor Change in Shade 4Staining on Acetate 4 – 5

Cotton 4 – 5Polyamide 4 – 5Polyester 4 – 5Acrylic 4 – 5Wool 4 – 5

Interpretation of Grade: Gray Scale rating is based on scale 1 to 5, where 5 is good and 1 is bad.

Range of Testing /Limit of Detection: 1 of 5 Grade Accuracy (±) : 0.5 Grade

57

Perspiration Test Equipment

Perspiration Test Equipment

58

Colorfastness to Perspiration(Test Method: ISO 105 E04:1994,BS EN ISO 105 E04:1996)

1. Pr inc ip le The ga rment s which- -come in to con tac t w i th the body-where per sp i ra t ion i s heavy may suf fe r se r ious loca l d i sco lo ra t ion . Th is t e s t i s in tended to de t e rmine the res i s t ance o f co lo r o f dyed tex t i l e s t o the ac t ion o f ac id and a lka l i pe r sp i ra t ion .

2. Apparatus and Material21 Perspiration tester; Perspirometer or equivalent device.2.2 Oven, maintained at 37 ± 2°C, or equivalent device.2.3 Multifibre test fabric.2.4 Grey Scale for color changing.2.5 Grey Scale for color staining.2.6 Standard lighting chamber.2.7 Acid and alkaline solution.2 8Non-dyeable fabric (eg. Polypropylene).2.9 Glassier acrylic plates.

3 . Test Spec imen3.1 I f the text i l e to be t es t ed i s fabr ic :3 .1 .1 Cu t tw o ide n t i c a l 10cm x 4cm s pec imens . I f t he f ab r i c

sa mp le i s mu l t i - co l o r ed t ake a s many s pec i mens a s nece ss a ry t o e nsu re t ha t a l l c o lo r s wi l l be i n con t ac t w i t h eac h o f t he s ix f i b r e bands o f t he m u l t i f i b r e ad j acen t f ab r i c .

3 .1 .2 A t t ac h the m u l t i f i b r e ad j acen t f ab r i c o f equa l s i z e t o t he t e s t s pec imens by s ew ing a l ong one o f t he s ho r t e r s i de s wi th t he mu l t i f i b r e f ab r i c i n con ta c t w i t h f ace o f t he spe c im ens . Th i s i s t he c ompos i t e t e s t s pec i men .

3.2 If the textile to be tested is yarns or loose fibre:3.2 .1 Take two ident ica l masses of yarn or loose f ibre

approximate ly equal to one ha l f of the combined mass of the adjacent fabr ic .

3 .2 .2 P lace each spec imen be tween a 10cm x 4cm piece of mul t i f ibre fabr ic and a 10cm x 4cm piece of non-dyeable fabr ic and sew them a long a l l four s ides to form composi te tes t .

59

60

Colorfastness to Rubbing

Rubbing fastness:

Reac t ive dyes be ing w a t e r s o lub l e i t i s d i f f i cu l t t o ac h i eve t he sa me l eve l o f w e t r ubb ing r a t i ngs a s com pared to i n so l ub le dyes tu f f and a l s o d ry rubb ing . W i th wa te r so l ub l e dyes , a pa r t f r om the b l ee d ing o f t he dyes tu f f f r om the rubbed a r ea , f i ne l y d i s t r i bu t ed subs t r a t e pa r t i c l e s a l s o rub o f f on the su r f a ce o f c rock m e te r c lo th .The p rob l em i s i nc r ea s ing w i t h h ighe r de p th s and f ab r i c s l i ke t ow e l s , co rdu roy e t c . w i th rough s u r f ace . Whi l e eva lua t ing the r a t i ng i t i s nece ss a ry t o 9gno re s uch rub -o f f pa r t i c l e s appe a r ing on t he c rock m e te r c l o th a nd cons ide r on l y t he s t a i n ing o f t he dye on the rubbed c lo t h .

In s t rumen t u s ed fo r che ck ing i s t he s t a nda rd c rock m e te r . How eve r , t e s t i s qu i t e s ens i t i ve a nd fo r ge t t i ng c ons i s t en t r e s u l t , i t i s neces s a ry t o u s e s t anda rd c rock me t e r c lo th , ma i n t a i n un i fo rm p re ss u re fo r app l y ing rubb ing s t roke s and number o f s t r oke s . Be s i des , f o r w e t r ubb ing , % mo i s t u r e on the c rock -c lo th ha s t o be kep t t o un i fo rm l eve l . F o r ISO -105 x 12 t e s t me t hods , r ubb ing c lo t h t ha t ha s bee n w e t t ed w i t h w a te r ha s t o be s quee zed to c on ta i n i t s ow n we i gh t o f w a te r . Fo r A A TCC 116-1995 me t hods , w e t p i ck up i s t o be ma i n t a i ned be tw ee n 65 ± 5% by sque ez i ng the w e t c rock me t e r c l o th u s ing a A A TCC b lo t t i ng pape r . Any va r i a t i on in t he mo i s tu r e con t en t c an l ea d to dev ia t i on in t he r a t i ng . Wi th h igh a moun t o f m o i s tu r e i . e . . , we t p i ck up , r a t i ngs w i l l be l ow er . D eg ree o f s t a in ing i s v i sua l ly a s se ss ed u s ing G rey s ca l e fo r change o f co lou r w i t h g r ade o f 1 -5 whe re r a t i ng o f 5 s ign i f i e s neg l ig ib l e c hange and 1 max i mum change .

In o rde r t o ge t ma x imum ac h ievab l e w e t r ubb i ng r a t i ng , w i t h r eac t ive dye s , i t i s ab s o lu t e ly nec es sa ry t o r emove a l l un f ixed hyd ro lyze d dyes by p rope r soa p ing /w as h ing o f t he s amp le be fo re eva l ua t i ng the r a t i ngs . Ex t r a c t i on wi th py r id i ne can be done to chec k the r em ova l o f hyd ro l yzed dyes tu f f .

61

Effect of depth of shade/selection of Dyes:

F or r ea c t ive dyes wi th h i gh s o lub i l i t y and good w as h ing f a s tne s s p rope r t i e s , r a t i ng w i l l be r e l a t i ve ly h i ghe r . H ow eve r , i n deep s hades , eve n wi th dyes w i th good w as h ing f a s tne ss , a f a s tne s s r a t i ng o f 2 -3 on the g r ey s ca l e i s a c h i evab l e and i s cons ide re d s a t i s f a c to ry and a ccep t ab l e . The l i qu id i n t roduc ed wi th t he we t c rock i ng c lo t h r e s u l t s i n a l l c a se s i n de t e r i o r a t i on in rub f a s tne ss o f up to 2 po i n t s i n com par i s on to d ry rubb ing .

Effect of Mercerizing:

The c o lo r t r a ns f e r i s r e l a t i ve l y l e s s , f o r t he me rce r i z ed co t ton and the rubb ing f a s tne s s g r ade i s h i ghe r . D ue to cha nge in t he f i be r s t r uc tu r e on merc e r i z i ng , t he r e i s a 30% l e s s ex t e n t o f r emova l o f f i be r pa r t i c l e s , du r ing w e t r ubb ing and l e s s e r a moun t o f co lo r on t he f i b r e fo r t he s ame v i s ua l dep t h o f sha de .

Effect of finishing treatments:

Di f f e r en t t ypes o f f i n i sh i ng t r ea t men t v i z . s o f tne s s , po ly s i l oxa nes , Z r - c ompounds , f l uo roca rbon , ch i to s an and ce l lu lo s e enz ymes e t c . app l i ed t o dye s , f ab r i c s do no t s how improve men t s i n we t r ubb i ng r a t i ngs . W i th som e o f t he c ro s s l i nk i ng agen t s , r ubb i ng f a s tne s s g r a de i s l ow ered by 1 / 2 t o 1 un i t . I n one o f t he r e cen t s tudy i t i s c l a im ed tha t f o r r eac t ive dyed b l acks and Borde aux m a te r i a l s , w i th po l yac ry l a t e f i n i shes t he r e i s som e im provemen t i n t he we t r ubb ing f a s tne ss r a t i ng .

62

Colorfastness to Rubbing(Excep t p i l e f abr ic )

(Tes t Method : ISO 105x12 , 1993 ; bs en i so 105 x 12 , 1995)

Principle :

This t es t i s des igned to de t e rmine the degree o f co lo r which may be t r ans fe r red f rom the su r face o f a co lo r t ex t i l e t o a spec i f i c rubb ing t es t c lo th fo r rubb ing (d ry o r we t ) .

2. Equipment 2.1 Sui table Crock meter 2 .2 Cot ton Rubbing Cloth (desized , b leached, wi thout f in ish) .2 .3 Gray Scale for Sta in ing2.4 Stopwatch .2 .5 Standard L ight ing Chamber .

Test Specimen:

3 .1 I f the text i l e s to be te s ted i s fabr i c : Two p ieces no t l e s s than 14cm x 5cm are requ i red fo r d ry rubb ing and two fo r we t rubb ing . One spec imen o f each pa i r sha l l have the l ong d i rec t ion pa ra l l e l to t he warp yarns o r wa les and the o ther pa ra l l e l to the wef t ya rns o r courses .

3.2 If the text i l es to be tes ted are yarn or thread:

Kni t i t into Fabric to provide specimen at lea I 14cm x 5cm or form a layer of parallel strands by wrapping it lengthways on a cardboard rectangle of similar dimensions.

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4. Test Procedure:4.1 Dry rubbing tes t : 4.1 .1 Lock the t es t spec imen onto the base of the c rock meter so

tha t i t l ies f l a t and taut for tes t ing . The length or width d i rec t ion of the t es t spec imen should be para l le l to the d i rec t ion in which the rubbing is to be conducted .

4. 1 , 2 Using the sp i ra l spr ing c l ip , se t a 5cm x 5cm square of the whi te , co t ton rubbing tes t c lo th to the f inger (peg) of the crock meter . The weave of the tes t c lo th should be para l le l to the d i rec t ion of rubbing ( i .e . angula r def lec t ion should be avoided) .

4. 1 .3 Lower the covered f inger onto the tes t sample .4.1 .4Turn the hand c ranks and makes ten complete turns of the

crank, a t the ra te of one turn per second ( lOxlOs) . May use a s topwatch to ver i fy the ra te of hand cranking.

4. 1 .5 Remove the whi te rubbing tes t c lo th f rom the f inger and evaluate color t ransfe r us ing the gray sca le for s ta in ing under s t andard l ight ing , D65 (Ar t i f ic ia l Dayl ight) .

4. 1 .6 One tes t i s done to warp/ wales d i rec t ion and another for wef t ' course d i rec t ion .

Rubbing test machine

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4.2 Wet rubbing test: 4.2.1 Repeat procedure from 4.1.1 to 4.1.6 on another sample with the white

cotton test cloth wetted in distilled water. Ensure that the rubbing test cloth will be \\etted with water to 100% take up (i.e. 1 gms fabric is increased to 2.0 gms of fabric).

4.2.2 Air dries the cotton test cloth at the room temperature before evaluation.5. Compare she contrast between the untreated and treated white rubbing cloth with the staining Grey Scale and rate from 1 to 5 and changing in the tested specimen with changing Grey Scale. This visual assessment is done in a color matching cabinet under standard lighting, D65 (Artificial Daylight).

6. Test Report1. for dry rub test:

(I) One rating (1-5) for warp/ Wales direction.(II) Another (1-5) for weft/ Course direction. 2. for wet rub test:(I) One rating (1-5) for warp/ Wales direction.(II) Another (1-5) for weft/ Course direction.

FORMAT FOR REPORTING

FORMAT FOR REPORTING

Typical example :SI. # Description of Test Test Result

1. Colourfastness To RubbingMethod Followed: ISO 105 X 12 : 1993 '

Staining Lengthwise Widthwise " Avg. GradeDry 4 - 5 4 - 5 4 - 5Wet 4 4 4

Interpretation of Grade: (5) Excellent (4) Good (3) Fair (2) Poor (1) Very Poor.Range of Testing / Limit of Detection : 1 to 5 Grade Accuracy ( ± ) : 0.5 Grade

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Colorfastness to PillingPilling test method – I (Marks & Spencer)

╬► PURPOSE: To as sure the ass i s tance o f woven sh i r t i ng and shee t ing fabr ic s t o p i l l ing .

╬► Apparatus:

1 . Mar t inda le Abras ion mach ine2 . Fe l t (See no te 1 and 2 and equ ipment . / de fau l t Ref 13D)3 . Po lyes te r foam (See no t e 2 and equ ipment . /de fau l t 13E)4 . P i l l i s cope5 . Pho tograph ic s t andards .

╬► Test Specimens:Avoid fabr ic wi th in 50 mm of the se lvedge . Take a spec imen o f su f f i c ien t s i ze t o cu t four150mm squares and four c i rc le s 38mm d iamete r . Wash as desc r ibed in Me thod o f Tes t P16 (Wash ing p r io r to P i l l i ng Methods I & I I )

╬► Method:

1. P lace one t es t spec imen c i rc l e f ace down in the ba se o f each sample ho lder . Cover each spec imen wi th a c i rc le o f po lyes te r foam 38mm in d i ame te r ( see no t e 2 ) . P lace on top o f the foam the in te r io r me ta l spec imen suppor t and as semble the t op and base o f the spec imen .2. P lace a 150 mm c i rc l e / square o f f e l t on each o f the base p la t es ( see no te 1 ) .3. P lace one 150 mm square o f the washed fabr i c over each o f the squa res o f f e l t . Ensure the fabr ic has an even tens ion by us ing the t ens ion ing weigh t (p rov ided wi th the mach ine) . Secure t he fabr ic in pos i t i on wi th the re ta in ing f rame and remove the t ens ion ing we igh t .4. Secure four spec imen ho lders on the t op p la te us ing the meta l sp ind les so tha t the fabr i c f ace o f each o f the spec imen i s i n

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con tac t w i th the fabr i c on i t s r e spec t ive base p la t e . DO NOT USE ADDITIONAL WEIGHTS.5 . Run the mach ine fo ra. Men 's and boys sh i r t i ng ' s 100 Revo lu t ionsb . Shee t ing 400 Revo lu t ions

Pilling test machine

╬► Results:

Mount the four t es t s amples on ca rd aga ins t unwashed fabr ic and v iew on the P i l l i s cope compar ing aga ins t Marks & Spencer Pho tographs s t andard copy .Repor t t he average o f the four r esu l t s to the neares t ½ grade .

Notes:

1. Fe l t used in the t es t shou ld be o f mass per un i t a rea 576+/ - 50 g rams /met re2 and 3 + / - 0 .5m.m th ick . The fe l t shou ld be renewed a f te r every 100 hours o f t e s t o r i f i t ’ s found to be too much so i led . The fe l t shou ld be re t ens ioned fo r eve ry 5000 revo lu t ions dur ing the runn ing per iod .2. Use whi t e po lyes t e r foam comply ing wi th the fo l lowing spec i f i ca t i on as de te rmined by BS4443 fo r f l ex ib le Ce l lu la r foams : -Dens i ty 29 .31 kg /m2Inden ta t ion ha rdness 170-120NThickness 3+ / - 1 mm

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The foam shou ld be s to red in the da rk . A new foam p iece shou ld be used fo r each t es t .

Pilling test method – II (Marks & Spencer)

╬► PURPOSE: To eva lua t e the po t en t i a l o f f abr i c to p i l l .

╬► Apparatus:1. I .C . I . p i l l box ( speed 60 rpm + / - 2 rpm) wi th s tandard cork as spec i f i ed in BS5811: 1986 .2. Molded Po lyure thane p i l l i ng tubes .3. Spec imen mount ing j i g ( see Equ ipment L is t Ref 13O And no te 2 ) .4. Pho tograph ic s t andards , woven o r kn i t t ed as app l icab l e .5 . Marks & Spencer t empla te fo r spec imen p repara t i on .6. Lock o r cha in s t i t ch sewing mach ine .7 . Whi t e PVC t ape 19mm wide .8. P i l l i s cope .9. Sof t b rush .10. S tandard main t enance fabr ic .

╬► Test Specimen:F abr i c s fo r w as hab le ga rmen t s s hou ld be was hed a s de sc r i bed in Me thod o f Te s t P16 “ Was h ing P r io r t o P i l l i ng Me thods I and I I ” . I f app l i cab l e r ec o rd any change s t ha t ma y occu r du r i ng wa sh i ng , e g . f uzz i ng , ma t t i ng , s u r f ac e d i s tu rbanc e .Us ing t he t e mp la t e ma rk and cu t f ou r squa re s 125 m m x 125 mm. A s amp l e app rox i ma te ly 190 mm x 60 mm s hou ld be kep t f p r u se du r ing a s s e s sm en t . A vo id f ab r i c w i th i n 50 mm o f t he se lvedge . Mark t he l e ng th d i r e c t i on o f t he f ab r i c on the ba ck o f eac h squa re t o ens u re ac cu ra t e p r epa ra t i on and m oun t ing o f t he spe c im ens . Where a f ab r i c ha s no d i sc e rnab le f ace , t e s t bo th s i de .

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╬► METHOD:

1. P repare two l eng th and two wid th spec imens by fo ld ing in ha l f , ensur ing the face i s on the ins ide .2. Sew a seam para l l e l to t i e fo ld (12 mm f rom the du t edge) to fo rm a t ube wi th an open seam.3. Cu t 10 mm f rom one end to make the samples 115mm long .4. Turn the four spec imens face ou twards .5. Mount the four spec imens on to t he po lyure thane tubes . To avo id unnecessa ry hand l ing o f the spec imens a lways :a) Co l lapse the t ube on to the two p ronged j i g .b) Push the meta l s l e eve over t he tube .c) S l ide a spec imen wi th the seam opened ou t and f i xed on to t he s l eeve .d) Hold the spec imen gen t ly and remove the s leeve l eav ing the spec imen f i rmly mounted (no t loose o r t igh t ) on the tube wi th an equa l amount o f po lyure thane p ro t rud ing a t each end .e) Remove the t ube f rom the j ig .6 . To secure the spec imen to the tube app ly t o each end a PVC tape o f su f f i c ien t l eng th to wrap a round one and a ha l f t imes so tha t 6 mm of po lyure thane tube i s v i s ib le a t each end .7. C lean ou t the p i l l box wi th a so f t b rush .8. P lace the se t o f four t ubes on one p i l l ing box .9. Run the box fo r t he requ i red revo lu t ions as spec i f i ed un the appropr ia te pe r fo rmance s t andard .10. Af t e r t e s t ing , r emove the spec imens . Examine the i ns ide o f the box and record the p resence o f any loose p i l l s and fabr ic debr i s .11. Care fu l ly remove the PVC tape .12. Cu t a long the seam to remove the spec imen f rom the tubes .13. Tr im the un t es ted a reas covered by the t ape .

╬► ASSESSMENT:

1. Grad ing shou ld be ca r r i ed ou t in the dark room or cur t a ined o f a rea .2. Se lec t the appropr ia t e woven o r kn i t t ed pho tograph ic s t andards fo r use in t he p i l l i s cope .

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3. Grade each spec imen in tu rn by p l ac ing in the p i l l i s cope and compare the degree o f p i l l i ng aga ins t t he s tandard pho tographs . Record the g rade .4 . Mount the g raded spec imens by s t ap l ing on to s ize A4 ca rd . Mount the s t r i p o f un tes ted fabr ic ac ross t he ca rd be tween the two pa i r s o f spec imens .

Pilling Test Equipments-

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ICI-pilling test m/c

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Conclusion:

There is large difference between the theoretical knowledge and practical experiences. This is truer in case of the study of Textile Technology. Industrial project is an essential part for textile education because it minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge. This project increases our thought a lot about textile technology. It also helps us to know a lot about industrial testing, and industrial management and made us suitable for industrial life. Besides it gives us the first opportunity to work in industry. So we can say industrial project prepare us for the expected destiny of practical life.

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Reference:

ESSENTIAL WET TESTING IN TEXTILEBY-MOHAMMAD FORHAD HOSSAIN,

First Edition, 2005.Page: 7 to 29,63 to 75

Dyeing and chemical technology of textile fibers Wet processing technology IVEssential wet testing in textileTextile terms and Definitions

Internet: http://www.thesmarttime.com/testing/testing-

procedures-18.htm http://textiletesting.blogspot.com/2009/07/marks-

spencer-pilling-test-method-1.html http://www.roaches.co.uk/quality-control.html http://www.ibais.edu/thesis.html

M. M. Knitwear ltd

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