LA LINEA CON ACIDO GLICOLICO "ATTIVATO"

Che normalizza il turnover cutaneo

Indicazioni: Nel trattamento pre e post peeling per prevenire e correggere le anomalie cutanee cronologiche, ormonali o fotoindotte (rughe sottili, age spots, acne, ecc.)

Modo d'uso: Si applica 2 volte al dì anche come completamento di altri trattamenti sia con cosmetici che farmaci.

~ La Ricerca Scientifica L/T..JY_/. nella Dermocosmesi

maVI MAVI SUD s.r.l. Aprilia (LT) - ltaly

SEBO-A FORTE® LA NUOVA SOLUZIONE PER L'ACNE

TRIETIL CITRATO E BENZOIL PEROSSIDO 2,5% IN UN NUOVO VEICOLO

• DIMOSTRATA ATTIVITA' ANTISEBORROICA

• DIMOSTRATA ATTIVITA' ANTIBATTERICA

• DIMOSTRATA ATTIVITA' COMEDOLITICA

• RIDOTTA ATTIVITA' ERITEMIGENA

• RIDOTTA A TTIVITA 1 FOTOPIGMENTANTE

Lm mav1 DERNATOK:cv

La ricerca scientifica nella dermocosmesi Per campioni medici e documentazione scientifica scrivere a: MAVI SUD s.r.l. - Viale dell'Industria, 1 - 04011 Aprilia (LT)

o j

DERMATOLOGIA COSMETOLOGICA A cura di P. Morganti e L. Muscardin Ed. International Ediemme

Indice 1° Volume

Sezione I Considerazioni Generali I Cenni storici 2 La bellezza della figura umana

Sezione II Fisiologia e Biologia della cute 3 Sviluppo della pelle 4 La struttura della cute 5 Biochimica e Fisiologia dell'epidermide 6 Biologia del tessuto connettivo 7 Sistema Vasco]are ed innervazione della cute

Sezione Ili La Cute come organo di assorbimento 8 Nozioni basilari sulla permeabilità e sull'assorbimento 9 Membrane e assorbimento 10 Metabolismo del1a cute e degli annessi cutanei

Sezione IV Chimica e Chimico-Fisica dei preparati topici 11 Materie prime e principi attivi di uso cosmetologico 12 Emulsioni ed emulsionanti 13 Tensioattivi di uso cosmetico 14 G1i antiossidanti e i fenomeni ossidativi dei grassi 15 Antimicrobici e preservanti cutanei 16 La profumazione dei cosmetici 17 Chimica e tossico)ogia dci coloranti 18 Prodotti cosmetici in aerosol

Indice 2° Volume

Sezione V Trattamenti dennocosmetici del viso e del corpo 19 Detersione, protezione e normalizzazione della pelle 20 La cosmesi per l'uomo 21 Cosmetici per bambini 22 Preparati per il bagno 23 Maschere e peeling 24 I Depilanti

Sezione VI La cute senile 25 Invecchiamento cutaneo 26 Il trattamento della cute senile

Sezione VII Cosmetici e Psiche 27 Aspetti psicosomatici e somatopsichici in

dermatologia cosmetologica

Sezione VIII I danni cutanei 28 Patologia cutanea da cosmetici su base immunologica 29 Danni da cosmetici

INFORMAZIONI PER L'ACQUISTO

Sezione IX Annessi cutanei e dermocosmesi 30 Ghiandole sudoripare e sebacee 31 Deodoranti e antisudore 32 Struttura e proprietà dei capelli 33 :Qetersione, protezione e normalizzazione dei capelli e del cuoio

capelluto 34 Cosmetici decorativi ad effetto duraturo 35 Le unghie 36 Prodotti decorativi ad effetto temporaneo superficiale

Indice 3° Volume

Sezione X Seborrea e dermocosmesi 37 Caratteristiche chimico-fisiche e funzioni fisiologiche del sebo 38 Produzione e modificazioni del sebo nel sano e nel seborroico 39 Influenza dei trattamenti cosmetologici sui lipidi di superfice del

viso e del capillizio 40 Attività ormonale e ghiandole sebacee 41 Il problema terapeutico dell'acne 42 Possibilità terapeutiche nella seborrea

Sezione XI Melanogenesi e dermocosmesi 43 Il sistema pigmentario 44 Filtri solari, pigmentanti diretti e depigmentanti

Sezione XIl Mucose orali e dermocosmesi 45 La salute della bocca e dei denti 46 Profilassi ed igiene dei denti e della bocca 47 Preparazioni cosmetiche per la cavità orale

Sezione XIII Prodotti speciali 48 Omeopatia e cosmetici 49 SolUZioni per lenti a contatto 50 Cosmetici ipoallergcnici 51 Cosmesi su basi naturali

Sezione XIV Trattamenti estetici correttivi 52 Interventi correttivi di chirurgia plastica 53 Lascrt.crapia 54 Crioterapia 55 Principi di mesoterapia 56 Ionoforesi 57 Interventi correttivi di "camouffiagc•

Sezione XV Controlli dennotossicologici 58 Valutazione delle materie prime e dei cosmetici finiti 59 Controlli tossicologici delle materie prime e dcl prodotto fi nito 60 Cosmetognosia. Funzionalità ed efficacia dci prodotti cosmetici

Sezione XVI Problemi normativi e di Marketing Gl Nozioni di marketing e di pubblicità 62 Grafica pubblicitaria: implicazioni psicologiche 63 Normative d.i legge sui cosmetici nei vari paesi del mondo 64 La responsabilità civile dei trattamenti cosmetici 65 Giudizio medico-legale del danno estetico

Il pagamento di Lit. 120.000 (Centoventimila) per l'acquisto del 1° volume di Dermatologia Cosmetologica può essere effettuato mediante assegni di conto corrente o per contanti indirizzandoli a:

INTERNATIONAL EDIBMME Via Innocenzo XJ, 41 - 00165 ROMA c/ c bancario n. 3184/ 51 Banca di Roma Ag. 1, Aprilia (LT)

O Prenoto fin da ora i volumi 2° e 3° Con la presente richiedo: Copie n ......................................... del Volume n. 1

O Invio in contrassegno O Accludo assegno n ......................................................................................................... ......................... (a pagamento quale anticipo di prenotazione)

TIMBRO E FIRMA

SpecificarecondizionidipagamentoefornireN" Codice Fiscale se è richiesta fattura.

• ileTERGENTE ACI[)() CON EFA

soomte

-

AMMONIO LATTATO "ATTIVATO" LA RISPOSTA DERMATOLOGICA ALLE IPERCHERATOSI

Ipercheratosi intrinseca Ipercheratosi estrinseca

Placche da ipercheratosi sia intrinseca che estrinseca, corticoterapia, invecch iamento e fotoinvecchiamento, fragilità cutanee post Radio e/o PUVA terapia, acne, peeling chimici.

[

Emulsione - Ammonio Lattato 14% H TU

Emulsione - Ammonio Lattato 8% kERAT )T~L HAMPUO Ammonio Lattato 7%

e $ ~ Oli i lineari e ramificati - Ammonio Lattato 5%

Muoo o u.s localmente 2 vo lte al dì .

, ,.. , . ,. · ~

I

I

•

MAVI IN GINECOLOGIA LA GIUSTA SOLUZIONE

~ mavt GYNECOLOGY

La ricerca scientifica nella dermocosmesi Per Campioni Medici e Documentazione Scientifica scrivere a:

MAVI SU D s.r.l. - Direzione Propaganda Medica Viale dell ' Industria, 1 - 04011 Aprilia (l T)

Cosmetic Dermatology

Series Editor: P. Morganti

Volume 2 Every day Problems in Dermatology: The Cosmetic Connection

Editors: P. Morganti, F.J.G. Ebling

'Every day Problems in Dermatology: The Cosmetic Connection is the second addition to the Cosmetic Dermatology Series

This book is comprised of 4 1 previously unpublished papers dealing with research in various fie lds of cosmetic dermatology. The main themes covered are: inter-relationship between drugs and cosmetic in the skin; the efficacy of, and the raction to, cosmetics; cosmetics in sports and work; cosmetics in relation to sexuality and pregnancy; and finally, the interconnection existing between cosmetics and diet. By so comprehensively covering the science of cosmetics, this text is indispen­sable to those involved in research and development for the cosmetics, toi letries and pharmaceutical industries. It will also be a great benefit to university and hospital pharmacists and health care pro­fessionals entrusted with any aspect of skin care.

CONTENTS (Main Chapters) Psycological aspects of every day cosmetic dermatology (E. Panconesi) Cosmetic, drugs and common skin disorder (W. Raab) Percutaneous absorption and lipids of the e lderly skin (J. Wepierre) Mechanism of solar erythema (E. Quencez, P. Agache) The skin plasticisation effect of a medium chain alpha-hydroxy acid and the use of potentiators (J.C. Hill , R.J. White, M.D. Barrat, E. Mignini)

Analytical problems of cosmetic evaluation resulting from EEC ltalian regulato1y procedures (L. Gagliardi, A. Amato) Kathon C.G.: ri sk of sensiti zation (A.C. De Groot) Methods for evaluating initant - e1ythematogenic activicy in:cosmetics (A. Se11oli, S. Giorgini, C. Maitinelli, M.C. Melli) Social problems related to perspiration: the cosmetic connection (C. Jacobson) Barriers creams (L.C. Parish) Evaluation of a new skin barrier providing water and solvent protection (P. Morganti , S.D. Randazzo) Cosmetology and sexuality in the history of gynaecology (G. Forleo, M. Fraticelli) Metabol ism of steroids in human skin (A. Lanzone, A.M. Fulghesu, F.P. Sellante, A. Caruso, S. Mancuso) The stucture and permeability of the oral mucosa (A. JruTet) Oral mucosa and dental care problems (E. Benagian) Vitamins and minerai nutrition in the sk in (B. Berra, S. Zoppi, S. Rapelli) Good manufacturing and quality contro! practices in the cosmetic industry (F. Pocchiari) Cosmetology and public health (L.Toti)

400 pages about - Hard-bound Price: U.S. $ 90.00 I in Italy L. 120.000

International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology

PRESIDENT

VICE-PRESIDENTS

SECRETARY-GENERAL

PROGRAM DIRECTOR

BOARO OF TRUSTEES

AC'/ISORY BOARO

Coleman Jacobson (USA)

Emiliano Panconesi (Italy) Rodolfo Paoletti (ltaly)

Pierfrancesco Morganti ( ltaly)

M. Brodie James (USA)

Pierre Agache (France) Fritz Kcmper (Gerrnany) Lawrencc Parish (USA) W.E. Parish (England) Wolfgang Raab (Austria) Salva1orc Randazzo (Jtaly) Hans Schaefer (France)

William Abramovitz (Venezuela) Mohamed Amer (Egypt) Rubcm Oavid Azulay (Brasil) I.A. Bernstein (USA) O. Binet (France) Otto Braun- Falco (Germany) Peter Fritsch (Austria) J. Morton Gillespie (Australia) Marwall Harahap (Indonesia) Yaino Hopsy-Havu (Finland) Stephanie Jablonska (Poland) A. Jarret (England) Jon Kabara (USA) F. Kardel Vegas (Venezuela) Ch.M. Lapiere (Belgium) Juhlin Lennart (Swedén) R.S. Lester (Canada) Howard Maibach (USA) Ronald Marks (Wales) Jose Mascaro (Spain) J.P. Ortonne (France) G.E. Pierard (Belgium) Jaime Rubin (Argentina) Wolfgang Rupilius (Gerrnany) Raul Vignale (Uruguay) Jacques Wepierre (France) Chu-Kwan Wong (Taiwan)

Trimestrale di Dermatologia Cosmetologica Quarterly Review of Cosmetic Dermatology

EDITOR

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

ASSISTANT EDITOR

SECRETA RY EDITOR

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOA RO

I'. MORGANTI PhD. SECRETARY GENERAL INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY ofCOSMETIC DERMATOLOGY Vi:i lnnoccnw Xl. 41 - 00165 Roma - (11oly> - Fax 06/63.80.839

S.D. R1\NDAZZO M.D. Profossor of DERMATOLOGY UNIVERSITY OFCATANIA Vi:i lacona. 7 -95124 Ca1ania (lrnly>- Fa< 095-7159894

M.B.JAMES M.D. PROGRAM DIRECTOR INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY ofCOSMETIC DERMATOLOGY JAMES CLINIC Suite 1076 Tanncry Lrne C.unden. M;iine 0-184) USA· Fax 001 ·407·9972 1 )7

H PASCOLI Via lnnoccruo Xl. 4 1 • 00165 Roma (lrnlyJ

P. AGACHE G. BELLOMONTE W.F. BERGFELD B.BERRA R. CAPUTO O. CARLESIMO D.CERIMELE E. CHIACCHIERINI J. COlTE M .A. DINA G. FABRIZI A. FIDANZA D. GRAFNETTER J.A. GRAHAM L. GAGLIARDI B. GUARNIERI A.J.JOUHAR F.H. KEMPER A .M. KLIGMAN N. LOPRIENO S. MADDIN G. PUGLISI C.L. MENEGHINI t L. MUSCARDIN N. ORENTREICH E. PANCONESI R. PAOLETTI W.E. PARISH L. PUGLISI W. RAAB G. RABBIOSI A. REBORA V. RIZZA G. SALVATORE A. SANNA P. SANTOIANNI H. SCHAEFER F. SERRI A. SERTOLI A.STAMMATI I. TADDEI H. TRONNIER V. VALKOYIC

MD. Prof. of Dcnnal. Ccntrc Hosp. Rcgional dc Bc'ançon (FJ CChcm. Prof. ofChcm .. Food Dcpart lsi. Sup. Sani1à - Roma ( I) MD. FACP Clc1cland Clinic Ohio (USA) DSc. Prof. of Biol. Chc m. Univ.' of Milano (I) MD. Prof. ;md Ch:1irman. Depan of Dcrmm. Un iv. of Mil:mo (I )

MD .. Prof. and Chairman Dcp:irt. of Dcrmal. Un iv. of Ro mc (I )

MD. Prof. ;md Chairman. Dcpart. of Dcrm<H. Catholic Univ. of Romc (I) • CChcm. Prof. ;ind Chainn::m. Depart. Tcchn. of Commcrcc Univ. o f Romc (I) DSc. Prof. ofCo<mct. !PIL Lyon (F> MD. Prof. :md Chaim1an. Dcpart. or Phatol. Ana1. C:Hholic. Univ. or Rome (I) MD. A).~. Prof. of Pacdria1ic Denna1ologiM. C:uholic Univcrsity of Romc (I) DSc, Prof. and Chairman. Dcpan. of Physiol. Univ. of Romc ( I )

PhD. ln"I. for Clinica! aod Exp. Medicine Prnguc (CS) B.Sc. PhD. Ocpt. Dcrmatology Univ. of Penn') lvania <USA) Ch;iirm:m. Dcpan. o f Phann. Chcm. ls1. Sup. Sanità Roma (I )

~ID. Prof. and Chairman. Depart. of Dcrmat. Unì\. of Mc~sina (I) M.B.MRSC Bco<011'fic ld (GB) MD. Prof. :.md Chairman. Dcpart. of Pharm~1col. :.md Tox. Uni v. Munster (0) MD. PhD. Prof. or Oermatol. Univ. of Pennsylvania Phil:.1dclphia (USA) DSc. Prof. of Gcnc1ic;1 Univ. of Pisa ( I) MD. ERCP Clin. Prof. Dcrmatol. Div. Dcn nat. Univ. BR. Columbia. Vancouvcr (C) CChcm. °'-:pan. of Ph:.mn01col. ;,md Tox. Univ. or Ca10111ia (I) MD. Prof. :ind Chairman. Dcpart. of Dcm1at. Univ. or Bari (I) MD. Emcritu~ Prof. of Dcnna1. Ccntrc Hosp. Rcgional 101 Rome ( i) ~ID. Clin. Prof. of Dcnnat. New York (USA) MD. Prof. and Chainnan. Dcpan. of Dcm1a1. Univ. of Fircnte ( I) MD. Prof. :md Chainnan. Depa.rt. of Pharmacol. :ind Tox. Unht. of Milano (I )

MA. PhD. BVSc. Hcad of Environml!nt<1I Safety Oh i-.ion. Unilcvcr Rcscarch Schan brook (GB) DSc. Prof. of Ph::irmacognosy Univ. of Milano (I )

MD. Prof. and Ch:iirman. Depart. of Derm:ll. Univ. or Wicn (A) MD. Prof. and Chairman. Dcpart. or Dcrmat. Un iv. of Pavi:i (I) MD. Prof. •md Chairm;m. Dcpart. of Dcrmat. Univ. of Genova (I ) Ph.D. Pro f. of Biol. Chcm. Univ. ofC:il:.ìnìa ( I) CChem. Dcpart. ofToxico l. ls1. Sup. Sanitl1 Ro ma (I) MD. Prof. and Chairnmn. Depart. of Microbio!. Ca1ho lic. Univ. of Roma {I) MD. Pror. and Chairman. Depàrt. of Dermat. Uni v. of Napoli (I ) MD. PhD. Prof. and Chairman. Dcpan. of Pharmacol. CIRO Sophia-Antipolis Valbonc (F) MD. E1ncri1us Pmr .. IXpart of I:knn;H. Ca1holi1.:. Univ. or Roma ( I) MD. A).soc. Prof. of Allergie and Occu~tional Dem1a1. Univ. of Firenze (I) DSC. Depan. of Toxicol. Js1. Sup. Sanità of Roma (I) B.Sc .. Prof. and Chaim1an. Depan. o f Pharmacol. Scicncc Univ. o f Siena (I) MD. Prof. and Chairman. Depart . of Dermatol. S1ad1ischcn Klinikcn of Dortmund (D) Ph.D. Pro!'. of Physk Rudcr Boskovic lnist. of Zagrcb (CRO)

GENERAL INFORMATION The JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY is an international journal devoted to publisch ing originai papers. reviews and other materiai which represent a useful contri bution to research on the skin and on cosme­tics. It is aimed at cosmetic chemists, dermatologists, microbiologists, pharmacists, experimental biologists, toxico­logists, plastic surgeons, and ali other scientists working on products which will come into contact wi th the skin and its appendages. The Journal is publisched quarterly in English. lt is distributed to cosmetic chemists, dermatologists, plastic surgeons, medicai and pharmaceutical schools, medicai libraries, selected hospitals and research institutions 1hrought the world, and by subscription to any other interested individuals or organizations. Statements and opinions expressed are pe rsona! to the respective contributors and are not necessari ly endorsed by the Editor(s), Advisers, Publishers of Distributors of this Journal.

COPYRIGHT Submitted materia i must be the originai work of the autor(s) and must not have been submitted for publication e lsewhere. By submitting a manuscript, the authors agree that the copyright fo r their articles is transferred to the publisher if and when the article is accepted fo r publication. None of the conteni of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in pan, translated, sto red in a retrieval system, or transmitted or distributed in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical , photocopy, recording or otherwise) without the prior written permission of the Publishers.

Sections of J ournal

The following sections will be features of the Journal:

Originai Laboratory Studies: descriptions of orig inai investigati ve laboratory research in cosmetics and rela­teci areas.

Special Reports: ltems of special interest to the readers, including reports on meetings, societies, legislation, etc.

Generai Articles: scientific articles of generai inte rest to our readers will be considered for publicati on. These articles should be concerned with newer developments in such relateci fields as dennatology, bio logy, tox ico­logy, etc.

Short Commu11icatio11s: the lenght should not exceed 5 typewri tten pages with not more than 3 fi gures included. Headings ("Materials", " Discussion", etc.) as well as Summaries are to be omitted. If accepted, these submission will appear in print in a very short time.

Letter to the Editor: comments on Journal artic les are invited as we ll as brief contributions on any aspects of cosmetic science. Letters may include figures, and/or references, but brevity is necessary.

Guest Editorials: concise, authoritati ve, substantiated commentary on specific topics of contemporary interest.

Book Reviews: book and monographs (domestic and foreign) will be reviewed depending on their interest and value to subscribers. Send materiai for review to the Editor, Dr. P. Morganti. No such materiai will be returned.

Address: ali papers should be submitted to: Dr. P . Morganti JNTERNATJONAL EDIEMME Via Innocenzo Xl, 41 00165 Rame - ltaly Tel. 0039/ 6/ 393.78.788 Fax. 0039/6/63.80.839

INFORMATION FOR AUTHORS

Papers must be submitted in English. Authors whose mother tongue is not English should arrange for their manuscripts to be written in proper English prior to submission.

Procedure of Submissio11 of Manuscripts: submit three copies of both the manuscript and ali illustrative materiai to the above address.

Organization of the Ma11uscript: investigati ve studies should be organized as follow: title, abstract page. introduction, materiai and methods, results, discussion, acknowledgments, references, legend for figures. tables. Ali pages should be numered consecutively starting with the abstract. The entire manuscript is to be typewritten, double-spaced, and with 3 cm margins. Trade names must be capitalized: the common name for compounds may be used if the formai chemical name as established by international convention is given after the first use. Any abbreviations other than those which are generally accepted must be defined. In the text, references to dual authors will use both surnames throu­ghout. For multiple authors, use the surnames of ali authors at the first reference and only the first author fol­lowed by "et al." thereafrer. Please mark in the margin of the manuscript the desi red position of the figures and tables. To allow faster publication only set of proofs will be furnisched to the author including the figures and tables in their final position.

Title page: list the title, name(s) and degree(s) of author(s), department(s) and institution(s) at which the work was done, city, state, and postai code. Any preliminary report or abstract of the work should be referred to as a footnote to the title.

Summary: each paper must be headed by an English language title of not over 70 characters (including spa­ces) suitable for use as a running head and must a lso be proceded by an English summary not exceeding 300 words typed double-spaced. The summary will include statements of the problem, method of study, results, and conclusions. Since thi s summary will be used by astracting journals, it must be self-explanatory a'nd should not inlcude abbreviations, footnotes, and references.

Foot11otes: should be listed consecutive ly at the bottom of the page on which they fall , designated by the fo l­lowing symbols in arder* , +,+,§, Il,**, etc.

Key Words: key words for computerised storage and retrieval of information should be incorporated in the summary.

References: the references have to be abbreviated as listed in the Index Medicus. The style of the references must conform to the examples given below: I) Robbins CR, Kellych ( 1970) Aminoacid compositi on of human hair. Text Res J 40:891 -896 2) Strehler BL (1977) Time, cells and aging 2nd edn. Academic Press, New York 3) Ebling FJ, Rook ( 1972) Cicl ic activity of the fo ll icle. In: Textbook of dermatology 11 , Blackwell, Oxford, p. 1567- 1573.

lllustratùms: figures should be numbered consecutively using Arabic numerals Tables should be numbered consecutively, using Roman numerals . Ali photographs should be black and white, glossy and unmounted. The number and size of illustration should be restricted to the minimum needed to clarify the text. Authors requi­ring extra space for illustrations will be charge accordingly. This is also the case for color illustrations. Ali figures, photographs, graphs, or diagrams should be submitted on separate sheets.

Animai Experiments: descriptions of animai experiments should include full detai ls of the types of animai used (inbred, etc.) and the conditions under which they were kept (standard diet, etc.)

Trade Names: ali common cosmetic ingredients should be referred to by their generic names, as indicated in the latest edition of CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, and the European Pharmacopeia. Ifa materials is not listed, then the trademarked name can be used, with the chemical composition given in footnotes.

INFORMAZIONI PER L'ABBONAMENTO L' abbonamento annuale comprende quattro numeri. È possibile ottenere abbonamenti a prezzo ridotto da parte dei ricercatori che lavorano presso Istituti che abbiano sottoscritto al meno un abbonamento a prezzo normale. L' Editore potrà fornire a richiesta notizie più dettagliate. Le sottoscrizioni di abbonamento possono essere effettuate mediante assegni postali , bancari , d i conto corrente o per contanti indirizzandoli a:

L'IVA è a carico dell'editore, non detraibile dall 'abbonato a norma art. 74 lett. C DPR 633/72

INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME - Via Innocenzo Xl, 41, 00165 ROMA c/ c bancario n. 3184/ 51 Banca di Roma Ag. 1 - Aprilia (LT)

SOTTOSCRIZIONI ANNUALI

Italia L. 100.000 - Altre Nazioni $ 70

Numero singolo L. 30.000

Numero arretrato L. 40.000

SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION Subscriptions are entered on a calendar years basis only and include four regular quarterly issues. Half- price subscriptions are available to research scientists whose institutions already subscribe at fu ll rate. Details on application from publisher. Payment must be made in U.S. dollars using bank draft , international postai money order only. Italian residents only may pay by persona( check:

INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME - Via Innocenzo Xl, 41, 00165 ROMA c/ c bancario n. 3184/ 51 Banca di Roma Ag. 1 - Aprilia (LT)

ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION RATE:

Italy, Lit. 100.000 - Other Countries, $ 70 Additional Air Mail postage rate: $ 15

Statements and opinions expressed in the articles and communications herein are those of the author(s) and not necessarily those of the Editor(s), or publisher. The Editor(s) and publisher, disclaim any responsability or liability for such materiai and do not guarantee, warrant, or endorse any product or service adverised in thi s publication nor do guarantee any claim made by the manufacture.r of such product or service

Quarterly Review of Cosmetological Dermatology

INFORMAZIONI PER L"ABBONAMENTO L'abbonamen10 annuale comprende quattro numeri. t possibì le ouencre abbonamenti a prezzo ridouo da pane dei ricerc•n ori che lavorano presso Istituti che abbiano sottoscrino almeno un abbonamento a prezzo normale. L'Editore potrà fornire a richiesta norizic più dettagliate. Le sonoscrizionì di abbonamcn10 possono essere effettuate mcdia111c Olsscgni pos1ali, b:inc~ari. di conto corrcn1c o per contanti indirizzandoli a: INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME ·Via Innocenzo Xl. 41 - 00165 Roma c/ c bancario n. 3184/ SI Banca di Roma Ag. I - Aprilia (LTI

ABBONAMENTO JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY

Italia L. 100.000 - Altre Nazioni S 70

lstru:io11i per /"abbonato: O desidero abbonarmi a quesw rivista per l'a11110 i11 corso O ri1111ovo a1110111atica111e111e il mio abbo11ame11to per gli w111i futuri (questa fo rma di abbo11a111e1110 può essere co1mmq11e disdeua i11 ogni111ome1110). O desidero ricevere le 11on11e editoria/i per eve11t11a/i collabomzio11i. (Scrivere i11 stampatello)

Nome~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Indirizzo

Città Nazione

CAP

~w ~ Quarterly Review of Cosmetological Dermatology SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION Subscript ions are cn1crcd on a calend ar ycar basis only and include four regular quarterly issucs. Half-price subscriptions are a\'ailable 10 rescarch sc icn1is1 whose ins1i1u1ions already subsribe at full rate. Dctails on applica1ioo from publisher. Paymcnt mu!'I be made in U.S. dollars u>:ing b:mk dr:1fl. in1cma1innal po>:lal moncy ordcr only. llalian rc!iiidcnlS only may pay by persona! check: c/ c bancario n. 3184/ SI Banca di Roma Ag. I · Aprilia (LT)

ORDER FORM JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY Am1ual subscription rote: ltaly, Lit. 100.000 • Other Countries S 70 Additional Air Mail postage ra te: Africa and Middle East S 12. North, Centrai and South America $ 14, Far East $ 15. Oceania$ 19.50

Please Check O I year s11bscriptio11 O Renew my subscripti011 owonuuirnlly in /11111re yeors (tltis comimwtion order is i11ste11detl /or subscriber S com·e11ie11ce 011/y ond my be canc:elletl 01 any rime). O Semi me li <:opy o/ hifomuuion for A 111/iors. O Please charge tltis orrler 10 my credir corti (Al/ order .s11bje110 crtdit approml). Dele1e as ncccssary:

O AMERICAN EXPRESS O DINERS CLUB - Card Number Expira1ion da1c ................... . (Piea.se Pri"1)

Narne Address

City ------------ Postal Code Country~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

STAMP

spett. Direzione "JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY" INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME Via Innocenzo Xl, 41 00165 ROMA (ITALY)

STAMP

spett. Direzione "JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY" INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME Via Innocenzo Xl, 41 00165 ROMA (ITALY)

Trimestrale di Dermatologia Cosmetologica Quarterly Review of Cosmetic Dermatology

Contents

Edito rial

5 1 What does Cosmetic Dermatology mean P. Morganti

Originai Laboratory Studies

55 Near-lnfrared Spectroscopy: a New Advance in Direct Measurement of Moisture in Skin M. Fresta, R. Pignatello and G. Puglisi

69 Looking good/feeling good: ethnography of cosmetic trace items found in refuse data L. M. Small

Special Reports

7 7 Il Seoul lnternational Dermatology Symposium Seoul, Korea May 11-14, 1995 L. C. Parish, M.D.

J. Appl Cosmetol 13. 51 -54 (July - September 1995)

WHAT DOES COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY MEAN P MORGANTI - Editor in chief

Key words: Cosmetic Dermatology; Medicai Cosmetology; Aesthetic Dermatology; Decora­tive Cosmetology; Cosmoceutical; Cosmetognosis.

Cosmetic dermatology has become such as imprecise term that I would like to redefine it. Much of the confusion seems to be associated with cosmetic pharmacology which concerns the biologica! ac­tivity of topically applied agents that are not considered to be drugs.

Terminology The medicai community in generai and dermatologists and cosmetic chemists in particular have been unable to determine the tasks that should be assigned to the field of cosmetology. The rapid spread of computer literacy and even the advent of the fibre optic network have not simplified the problem. Yvan Privat ( I) has suggested that such terminology as medicai and pharmaceutical co­smetology to distinguish between protective and decorative cosmetology. More recently, Maibach has argued that the title of his book Cosmetic Dermatology is paradoxical; dermatology - a science versus cosmetology - an art (2) Parish and Lask avoided the problem by choosing the title Aesthetic Dermatology for their text. (3)

During the I " International Congress of the International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (ISCD) in 1986, Luis Calvo (4) suggested the term cosmoceutical in order to define a cosmetic product con­taining active ingredients. At the same meeting, Kligman and Graham (5) explained the psychologi­cal and therapeutic benefits of a cosmetic make-over. They also promoted the concept of decorative cosmetology as being a medicai science and not merely an art

The term Is Cosmetic Dermatology really a paradox? I created the term in 1983. lt became a reality with the founding of the lnternational Society of Cosmetic Dermatology in 1985 (6 renumber) and the initia­tion of the international periodica! Journal of Applied Cosmetology, (5 renumber) as the officiai pu­blication of the ISCD (6,7). Actually, I had previously suggested the term at a meeting of the North American Clinica! Dermatology Society in Monterey, California (8). With the Journal being in its thirteenth year and the Society's 5th International Congress being held in Montecatini October 26-29, the term has become well-established.

Redefinition Directives from the European Community (EC) headquarters indicate that the role of cosmetics will differ from those of drugs (9, lO). Cosmetics have the primary function of keeping up a good appearance, changing the appearance, or correcting body odors. In addition, a cosmetic may clean, perfume, and protect. To quote the regula­tion concerning a cosmetic (I I):

That product which has a preventative action can therefore be considered cosmetic, because its acti­vity is not exclusively directed at prevention and is instead collateral or subsidiary. In fact, one can

51

What does Cosmet1c Dermatology mean

certainly accept that a cosmetic prepared with the purpose and characteristics adequate for the care of body hygiene is supportive in the prevention of disease. Should further doubt exist in the interpretation of the preventative actions performed by a cosmetic, the mechanism of action will be taken into consideration: this will be such as to make possible the unequivocal distinction between cosmetic and drug.

From what has been said, one can therefore gather that, as far as the preventative activity is concer­ned, the ambiguity between the two definitions is only apparent and not fundamental.

Recommendafion Pharmacology should no longer be used to explain the act ivity of a cosmetic; pharmacology really applies only to a drug (12). Cosmetology denotes the study of a discipline and not the activity of a cosmetically active principle. Let "cosmetognosis" be used to define the activity of a cosmetic with a new and unequivocal meaning, and keep cosmetic dermatology for its originai purpose, the cosme­tic aspects of the study of dermatology.

52

P. Morgonti

REFERENCES 1. Privat Y. (1991), Decorative cosmetology and remedial cosmetology or, for a new definition of

cosmetology, Nouvel/s Dermatol. 10, I 0-1 1 2. Baran R. and Maybach H.I. (1994), Cosmetic dermatology, Martin Dunitz Ed., UK, no. XII 3. Pa r ish L.C., Lask G. (1991): Aesthetic Dermatology, New York, McGraw-Hill, 1991: l 4. Calvo L. (1986), Treatment cosmetics and ageing, In: Cosmetic dermatology, Voi. 1, A new

look at old skin: A chal/enge to cosmetology (Morganti - Montagna Ed.), Intem. Ediemme, Roma, Italy, p. 261

5. Kligman A.M. and Graham J.A. (1986), The cosmetic make-over in elderly women. In: Co­smetic dermatology, Voi. I, A new look at old skin: A chal/enge to cosmetology (Morganti -Montagna Ed.), International Ediemme, Roma, Italy, p. 197

6. Morganti P. (1983), The Journal: an officiai bridge, J. Appl. Cosmetol., I ,7. 7. Maggiore N. (1985), International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology, Repert. 5340, no. 1304,

October 12 8. Morganti P. (1995), Cosmetic dermatology: an Italian reality, In print on: Cosmet. Toilet. Man.

Worldwide 9. Anonymous (1976), Counci l d irective 76/768/EEC of July 27, 1976, On the approximation of

the laws of the member states relating to cosmetic products O.J.E.C. n. L262/169, 27.09.1976 and following amendments

10. Anonymous (1993) Council directive 93/35/EEC of June 14, 1993, Amending for the six th tome Directive 76/768/EEC on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products O.J .E.C. n. LI 5 1/32, 23 .06.1993

11. Paglia i unga S. (1994), Cosmetic products in national and international legislation, In: (RTC ACTA) The skin as a dynamic barrier and thefunction on cosmetics - RTC Ed., Milan, Italy, p. 7

12. Morganti P. (1995), The cosmetic patch: a new frontier in cosmetic dermatology, In print on Soap Cosmetic Chemicals Specialties.

53

J. Appl. Cosmetol. 13. 55 - 68 (Ju/y- September 1995)

NEAR-INFRARED SPECTROSCOPY: A NEW ADVANCE IN DIRECT MEASUREMENT OF MOISTURE IN SKIN

MASSIMO FRESTA. ROSARIO PIGNATELLO AND GIOVANNI PUGLISI

Istituto di Chimica Farmaceutica e Tossicologica. Facoltà di Farmacia. Università di Catania, Viale A. Dorio n. 6, 95125 Catania (ltaly)

Received: June 28, 7 995

Key words: Near-infrared spectroscopy; Attenuated tota! reflectance; Skin hydration; Skin thickness, Dry skin characterization.

----------------- Synopsis In this review the potential application of near-infrared spectroscopy for the in vitro and in vivo cha­racterization of skin is presented. The near-infrared attenuated reflectance spectroscopy allows the determination of the overall skin water content as well as of the various components constituting the skin, i.e., stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis. This technique provides the possibility to di rectly determine the changes in the various types of water (free, bulk, and protein-bound water), which are present in the various skin layers. The assessment of the scattering effects in skin is also possible by means of near-infrared spectroscopy. This method achieves an objective, precise, sensitive, reprodu­cible, non-invasive tool for the examination of the effect of humidity on the different types of water. The in vivo evaluation of the biologica! effectiveness of various dermatologica! or cosmetic prepa­rations is now possible by near-infrared attenuated tota! reflectance measurements.

Riassunto In questo articolo si passano in rassegna le potenziali applicazioni in campo cosmetico della spettro­scopia nel vicino infrarosso per la caratterizzazione sia in vitro che in vivo della pelle. La spettro­scopia in riflettanza attenuata nel vicino infrarosso permette la determinazione sia del contenuto di acqua totale nella pelle che quello nei singoli componenti che costituiscono la pelle (lo strato cor­neo, l'epidermide ed il derma). Questa tecnica offre la possibilità di determinare direttamente i cam­biamenti che si hanno nei vari tipi di acqua (acqua libera, di sistema o legata a proteine), presenti nei vari strati della pelle. La spettroscopia nel vicino infrarosso permette inoltre la valutazione degli effetti di diffrazione della luce sulla pelle. La tecnica qui riportata rappresenta un metodo oggettivo, preciso, sensibile, riproducibile e non-invasivo per determinare in maniera d iretta gli effetti dell'umidità sui diversi tipi di acqua. É quindi possibile la determinazione in vivo dell'efficacia bio­logica di vari preparati dermatologici e/o cosmetici per mezzo di semplici misure di riflettanza nel vicino infrarosso.

55

Near-tnfrared Spectroscopy: a New Advance in Direct Measurement of Moisture in Skin

INTRODUCTION Skin dryness is one of the main problems in der­mato logy and cosmetology. Although there are numerous descriptions of dry skin, the causes of this phenomenon are stili poorly understood. It is worth noting that when the skin is characteri­zed as dry it is not necessarily lacking in moi­sture, rather it is often considered to present a rough, uneven surface that scatters light, leading to a dry and matte appearance ( 1-2). A number of components, besides the water content, play a fundamental rote in determining the physica l properties and structure of the stratum corneum. In particular, the lipid components of the skin are able to modify the light diffusion patterns, the reflection and transmission characteristics, and to influence the surface properties of the skin, providing smooth and rough feeling. The ex ternai layer of the skin is the stratum cor­neum, which has a thickness of 10-20 µm and is made up of partially dehydrated cells located in a lipid matrix. The particular architecture of the stratum corneum is responsible of the skin bar­rier function. Under this layer, there are the epi­dermis and the dermis, which present a thick­ness of 0.1 -0.2 mm and 2-4 mm, respectively. The skin water content increases as the layer deepens; namely, the most hydrated zone is the dermis. As reported by Obata and Tagami, skin softness and pliability are mainly controlled by the water content in the stratum corneum (3). The effect of humidity on the stratum corneum characteri­stics and, in particular, on the strength and num­ber of water-bind ing sites in the stratum cor­neum was extensively reported (for review see ref. 4). Normally, increasing relative humidity causes an increase in tissue hydration, the rate of which is greater at higher values of humid ity. It was demonstrated (5) by nuclear magnetic re­sonance and infrared spectroscopy that the con­tent and nature of water present in the stratum comeum was different as a function of the rela­tive humidi ty. Tight bonds between the water

56

molecules and the potar sites of the skin pro­teins were observed at a water content below 10%. Increasing the water content, in the range from 10% to 40%, less tightly bound water was detected, suggesting the formation of hydrogen­bonds with the protein-bound water. Beyond a water content of 50%, the water resembled the bulk liquid. A number of analytical techn iques are available to determine and characterize in vivo the state of the skin (6). Although the knowledge about the skin 's functional properties are always in­creasing (7), little is really known about its pre­cise nature, especially as concems lipid content, whose variations are only minor (8-9). The prin­cipal matter is whether or not dry skin is really dehydrated. In fact, the controversia! data are due to the unsui table noninvasive methods used for the description of skin conditions and for the determination of the effectiveness of various co­smetic preparations. These techniques are based on the measurements of physical parameters that are dependent on skin conditions, e.g. pre­sence of water, lipid content, other components. Furthermore, these physical parameters used in the determination of skin moisture are not stric­tly related to the differences in water content, thus they are not appropriate in this kind of in­vestigation.

Analytical method Tests normally used to determine the skin status are based on indirect measurement of hydrat ion and include high frequency electrical conducti­vity, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), bioche­mical measurements, and clinica! evaluations. Ali these are affected by low precision and not well -understood relationship to water content. Spectroscopic assays due to the absorption band of the hydroxyl moieties are directly related to the water content, fo llowing Lambert & Beer's Law. Thus, the absorbance (optical density) of a sample is proportional to both concentration of the absorbing species and the path length of the

sample through which the detection light beam goes. Infrared spectroscopy may be able to give preci­se information about the water content of the skin ( I 0), even if the water IR spectrum is wide and poorly defined. In the mid-infrared, in order to determine the water content of the skin in vivo the attenuated tota! reflectance (ATR) tech­nique was carried out. In particular, the ratio of the amide I to the amide II band of skin protein was used as a measure of water content by ex­ploiting the overlap of the water-bending mode with the amide I band (11 ), assuming (unproven assumption) that neither amide I nor amide II bands are affected by water content. The use of the 2 100 cm-' combination band of water has the advantage of being poorly influenced by the bands arising from skin and products (12) . However, ATR measurements have some draw­backs: (i) the requirement of skin occlusion may significantly affect the water content, (ii) the de­gree of contact between the skin and the reflec­tance element is not constant especially after the treatment of skin with a lotion or other product capable of affecting the skin 's refractive index, thus influencing the radiation penetration depth. Recently (2,13-14), the near-infrared reflectance (NIR) spectroscopy (1100-2500 nm) has been used to determine skin water content in vivo. NIR provides severa! advantages over mid-in­frared spectroscopy: (i) it presents higher sensi­tivity to hydrogen-bonding difference, since wa­ter bands are precise; (ii) possibility of discrimi­nating between the different types of water; (iii) the scattering effects can be used to evaluate changes in the character of the skin surface; (iv) non-occlusive measurements are catTied out.

M. Fresta. R. Pignatello and G.Puglisi

Experimental apparatus A pioneering paper on diffu se-reflection infrared spectroscopy appeared in 1965 (15) and since then has attracted great interest, conside­ring that this rapid noninvasive method can be eas ily used to obtain spectra of solid, opaque samples. It was largely used in the agro-alimen­tary field for in v itro analysis of water, lipids, protein, sugars, and their derivatives (15). Seve­ra! applications in cosmetology, e.g., the asses­sment of hydration and the effectiveness of moi­sturizing agents, involve in vivo measurements. The possibility of using NIR fo r this purpose was previously demonstrated (14). In particular, the coupling of a IO-foot optic fiber cable to the spectrometer made it possible to collect spectra on the skin of legs treated with moisturizer. The presence of optic fi bers in the NIR setup does not endanger obtaining suitabl e and reliable in vivo results. In fact, improved NIR resolution witho ut optic fi bers allowed us to distinguish between different types of water (2). Fundamen­tally, two types of apparatus are required: (i) an infrared sensor, (ii) a data analyzer. In order to make more precise and routine the NIR measurements, allowing the registration of spectra at any skin site, the optical elements of an integrating sphere of a near-infrared spec­trophotometer were totally modified (13). The apparatus cons isted of an integrating sphere spectrophotometer (Infra-Alyser 500) equipped with a PC AT microcomputer. An external in­tegrating sphere was added in order to collect a full energy spectrum and to optimize signal-to­noise ratio, without modifying the basic func­ti on. The connection between the internal and external integrating spheres was realized by two special optic fibers, that presented a very low attenuation coefficient ( <0.5 db/m) throu­ghout the investigated NIR spectrum (Fig. I) . It was reported that these modifications caused no wavelength shift or change of the absorp­tion spectra of test materiai, allowing precise and sensitive measurements in the range 900-2500 nm.

57

Neor-/nfrored Spectroscopy. o New Advonce in Direct Meosurement of Mo1sture in Skin

Internal integrating

sphere ,,.

•• '\:,..,_,..~·

Reference beam

' .. .. .. /"· . .

o:C1f)~(beffi ;

Sample beam f i External integrating

~ sphere

Figure 1

Infrared spectra of biologica! specimens (e.g., skin) frequently contain overlapping bands that are instrumentally unresolvable. Overlapping lR bands are a particula rly common problem in the

Movable mirror

[]

58

Figure 1 - Schemotizotion of the modificotion corried out by on lnfro-Alyser 500 spectrophotometer to obtoin in vivo meosurements of body skin sites. The apparotus is essentiolly an externol lntegrating sphere connected to the spectrophotometer by bundles of op tic fibers.

infrared spectra of condensed phase samples be­cause the widths of individuai absorption bands are usually greater than the separation be tween neighboring bands. The enhancement of instru­mental resolution poorly resolved overlapping bands. In th is case, mathematical methods are needed and, in particular, curve-fitting ( 16), de­rivative spectroscopy ( 17), Fourie r deconvolu­tion ( 18-22). Of these techniques, Fourier tran­sform provides the most valici information on band structure, especiall y when the individuai component bandwidths are si milar. With the correct choice of both the spectral and the de­convolution parameters, an optimum resolution increase occurs (for a review see ref. 23). Expe­rimentally, Fourie r transform infrared (FTIR) spectrometers measure inteiferograms by means of an optical dev ice known as an interferometer, which is based upon the Michelson interferome­ter (24-26), whose basic and schematic repre­sentation is shown in Fig. 2. Therefore, the ap­plication of FflR spectroscopy to skin investi-

I nfrared light source

Detector

Beam splitter

Fixed mirror

Figure 2

gation may be of great interest, considering the JR spectral complexities arising from the various contributions of the skin components, besides the presence of de1matological or cosmetic agents.

Data treatment In quantitative analysis of the skin water con­tent, the recorded spectra should be converted to apparent absorbance (log I /R), where R is re­fl ectance. When a wide investigation is requi­red, an average procedure on JR data over ali the subjects for each product at each time point is carried out, minimizing, in this manner, the effecr of individuai va riation by limiting rhe in­fluen ce of o utli ers . No rm a ll y, t he averaged spectra within a study should undergo a multi ­pl icative scatter correction (MSC) to adjust the changes in apparent absorpt ion due to scatte­ring. In thi s way MSC corrects each spectrum or average spectrum to an ideai spectrum (27-29). MSC assumes a constant scattering coeffic ient over the wavelength interval used and only mi­nor changes in concentration. The NIR wave­length interval normally used is 2500-11 00 11111.

In th is range, the scattering coeffic ient of the skin has been demonstrated to be fair ly constant (30-3 1 ), and the variation in spectral intensity is small. The concentration changes can be deter­mined from the MSC-corrected data; whereas the changes in scattering can be evaluated from the difference between the orig inai and MSC­corrected spectra. The resulting spectral in tensi­ties follow Beer 's Law and, hence, the skin wa-

Figure 2 - Essential components of a Miche/son interfero­meter. During an infrared scon, the interferometer carries out the following: (i) splits the light coming from the IR source into two beams (beam splitter), (ii) chonges the optica/ poth of one beam using mirror movements, (iii) creotes optico/ interference by recombining the two beams, (iv) passes the IR light through the sample far meosurement of o single beam spectrum. The ratio of the single-beam spectra with and without the somp/e in the light path yields a sample spectrum in percentage tronsmittance, further detoils are available in ref. 23.

Figure 3 - In vitro skin study. Near-infrared absorption spectra of dermis, epidermis and both (tota/ skin) (perso­na/ data).

M. Fresta, R. Pignatello and G .Puglisi

ter content is possible to be determined.

Water content in skin In vitro studies ( 13) bave demonstra ted that the absorbance of the dermis is greater than that of rhe total skin (Fig. 3), the difference, i.e . the spectrum of the epiderm is, showing the two characteristic wate r peaks (Fig. 4 ) . The inten­sity of the skin spectrum increases when the ep idermis i s remo ve d. Thi s be havio u r i s mainly due to the fo llowing factors: (i) the re ­moval of the last-hydra ted layer (stratum cor­neum); (ii ) an inc rease in the volume ana lyzed owing to an enhanced penetration of the infra­red light beams. l t was possible to determine hydration grade of the s tratum corneum by cor­re lating the difference in absorbance at 1936 nm and 1100 nm to the water content of the stratum corne um (the linear regressio n was 0.98). In fact, the difference in the absorbance at the waveleng ths increased with water con­tent, as dici the band near 1930 nm (for further details see reference 13).

2.2

2.0

1.8

1.6

., "

1.4

e I Total Skin I .. -e 1.2

o

"' .e <

1.0

0.8

0.6

0.4

0.2

o.o ..................... w..... .......... ~ .......... ~ ....... ~ .......... ~ ........... ~ .....................

1000 1200 1400 1600 1800 2000 2200 2400 2600

Wavelength (nm)

Figure 3

59

Near-lnfrared Spectroscopy. a New Advance in Direct Measurement of Moisture in Skm

2.00

1.75 A

1.50

1.25 CD

" e:

"' ~ 1.00 o "' .Q e(

0.75

0.50

0.25

0.00 .__._.._._.._._.._..__._.._.__. ............................ ~~.__._.__._.._._ ...... 11 00 1300 1500 1700 1900 2100 2300 2500

Wavelength (nm) Figure 4

figure 4 - In vivo absorbance near-infrared spectra (A) and their second derivative spectra (8) of water and skin in the water combination region (persona/ data in agreement with ref. 2).

Band assignments The apparent absorbance (log I /R) spectra of skin and water are shown in Fig. 4. Two distinct bands are present. One band is centered at 1450 nm and the other at 1920 nm, corresponding to the first overtone of the OH stre tch in water and

70

B

60

:; .!!. 50

~ ·;;; e: .! 40 ·= CD > ~ > ·e 30 CD .,, .,, e: o " 20 Water CD cn

10

o ~~~....._......._......._......_.~~~_._.._._.. ....... ......_.._.

1825 1850 1875 1900 1925 1950 1975

Wavelength (nm)

Figure 4b

the combination mode of the OH stretch and H20 bend in water, respectively. The skin spec­trum also presents two not well resolved bands near 1730 nm and 1750 nm probably due to li ­pids. The second derivatives were able to enhan­ce the features in the water combination region, as shown for both water and skin in Fig. 4. The second derivative spectrum of water showed the presence of a major band a t 1892 nm and weaker bands at l 906 and 1924 nm. As previou­s ly reported (2, 32), the different bands ar ise from the contribution of the different kind of

Summary of the assignment of the various bands observed in the second derivative of the skin NIR-spectra and aris ing from the contribution of the different types of water in combination with the skin .

........ ............... ~~~.~ .. ~~.Y.~~.~~.g~~ .. (~.~>. ......... ......... ....... ~~~.~r..~Y.P.~ .. ~~~!g~.~~~~ .................. .............................. . 1879 Free water 1890 B ulk water 1909 Protein-bound water 1927 Protein-bound water

60

of water. Generally, longer wavelengths indicate greater hydrogen bonding, corresponding to un­bonded (free) water and water with one or two hydrogen bonds, respectively (32). The same characteri stic three bands appear in the skin (different relative intensities), in addition to a stronger band at 1879 nm. The latter is probably due to poorly bonded water (free water) giving rise to the evaporation flu x across the stratum corneum (2) . The other bands seen in the se­cond derivative spectra of skin arose from the following types of water: (i) the 1890 nm band corresponds to the strongest band of liquid wa­ter and is referred to as bulk water, (ii) the 1909 nm and 1927 nm bands are mainly due to more tightly bound water, coming from the water­protein association. As concerns the tissue d i­stributi on of these various types of water, it was reported that the free and protein-bou nd water are expected to be found within the stratum cor­neum, whi le bulk water and a certain amount of protein-bound water are expected to be found in the epidermal layer just be low the stratum cor­neum. Table I summarizes the various contribu­tions arising from the different types of water.

lnfluence of humidity on skin water conteni As recently demonstrated by NIR-spectroscopy (2), the grade of relative humidi ty influenced the NIR spectra of the skin and, hence, the con­tent and the type of water present in the skin. Particularly, a shift towards higher wavelengths (stronger hydrogen bonding) of the bands near 1879 nm, l 909 nm, and 1927 11111 at values of relative humidity around 19%, compared to the spectrum obtained at 42% relative humidity was reported (2). At lower values of relative humi­dity, these bands become also less intense, no shift was detected for the band at 1890 nm (bulk water), but there was an enhancement of its in­tensity. These data show that the molecules of free and protein-bound water are somehow more tightly hydrogen-bonded.

M. Fresta, R. Pignatello and G.Puglisi

1200

1100

:i A .è 1000

.a-·u; e 900

$ .!: 800 CD > ~ 700 > ·;: ., -e 600 -e e o

500 " CD

"' 400

300 o 3 5 9 10

Absolute humidity (g/m3)

Figure 5

600

550

:i B

.è 500 .a-Cii e

~ 450

CD > 400 :g > ·;:

350 CD -e -e e

300 o " ., "' 250

200 o 2 3 4 6 7 B 9 10 11

Absolute humidity (g/m3) Figure Sb

Figure 5 - A - Correlation of the second derivative inten­sity ot the near-infrared band near 1879 nm (free water:•) and 1890 nm (bulk water: • ) with absolute hu­midity. B - Correlation of bound water os 1909 nm band (•) and 1927 nm band(• ) with abso/ute humidity (data from ref. 2).

The intensity of the band near 1879 nm increa­ses proportionally to humidity, showing an enhancement in the concentration of free water (Fig. 5). This trend is in agreement with the as­signment that this band is related to the water transported across the skin barrier (water flux

61

Near-/nfrared Spectroscopy: a New Advance in Direct Measurement of Moisture in Skin

through the straturn corneum). It is wonh noting that Potts (4) observed an increase in the stratum corneum thickness, as a function o f hydration . which provides a more substantial baiTier to the water loss. The increase in more tightly bound water ( 1909 nm and 1927 nm) as a function of humid ity is shown in Fig. 5. As proposed by Martin (2), these bands parallel the increase ob­served for free water (band at 1879 nm). sugge­sting that there may be free exchange between the two types of water. As shown in Fig. 5, the band intensity at 1890 nm (bulk water) decrea es with increasing humidity. The bulk water was de­fined as the water pool placed below the stratum corneum, which should be constant. The detected decrease may be due to a reduction of the infra­red beam penetration be low the s tratum corneum. This phenomenon could be ascribed, as observed by Potts (4), to the thickening of the stratum cor­neum caused by humidity. Thus, the longer resul­ting path length for N JR radiation though the stratum corneum reduces the penetration (shorter path length) into the deepest layers of epidermis. In thi s way, the stra tum corneum appears to plump out as hurnidity inc reases. However, the humidity-induced hydration does not cause a si­gnificant increase in the tota! path length of NIR­radiation into skin. There is no major change ap­parent in the net depth of radiation penetration or significane change in the re fractive index in this region with hydration (33-35). NIR reflectance represents a superfic ial rneasure­ment at 1879 nm since free water should be fra­med in the s tratum corneum. The presence of bulk water demonstrates the penetration into the epidermis of some portion of the reflected radia­tion. The radiation pathway through the epider­mis is likely to be sho11, otherwise the intensity of the bulk water band overwhelms the spectrum.

Evaluation of dry skin in vivo In order to assess the dryness of the skin , a cli­ni ca I approach is normall y used , a lth ough subjectivity of the assay frequen tly affects the

62

results and the possibi lity of data comparison. In particular, cl inica! scores. which evaluate the appearance of the skin. are routinely employed. The aspect of the skin was evaluated by a trai­ned expert on the basis of the following c rite­ria: l. "papyracé .. state of the skin ("cigarette pa­per" aspect) 2. roughness (tactile evaluation) 3. presence of squames 4. presence of scales ("snakeskin ., aspect) 5. irritation (subclinical inflammation: redness) According to the gravity of the phenomenon. each criterion was scored from O to 4: the use of ha lf points was allowed. The average of the five criteria represent the ove ra ll score b y means of which the individuai skin dryness is evaluated. NIR analys is a llowed not only the evaluation of the water content in skin but also the possibility of a more precise, sensit ive, reproduc ible (both in terms of inter- and intraday assay) and com­parable method to characterize, in an objective way, dry skin in vivo. In fact, as shown in Fig. 6, the absorbance va lues fe ll gradually and pro­portionally with the increase in the clinica! sco­re. This phenomenon was more evident for the bands near 1450 nm and 1930 nm than in the wavelength range 2000-2500 nm. Fig. 7 shows the very good corre lation between the overall cl inica! score and the decrease in the intensity of the NIR !'Pectra of the skin. Other techn i­ques, such as the electric conductance measure­ment, were able to correlate with the cl inica! score but only up to a overall score va lue of 2.5 (13, 36). These data show that dry skin is really dehydra­ted, confirmin g that the stratum corne um of very dry skin is almost two times less e lastic than that o f normai skin (7). In fact, the NIR absorption method , applicable in vivo to a li skin sites. strong ly correlated with the c linica! scores. and the obtained data can be d irectly correlated and in terpreted in te rms of water content. an achievement not possible with other

1.4

1.3

1.2

1.1

1 o il ; 0.9 .a o ~ 0.8

0.7

0.6

0.5

0.4

0.3

2.0

1.8

- 1.6 E e: o o

1.4

~

-;-<O .., 1.2

O> 1.0 ~ ..

u e 0 .8 .. .a o ., .a

0.6

<( 0.4

0.2

120-0 1400 1600 1600 200-0 220-0 2400 2600

Wavelength (nm) Figure 6

T 1

0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3 .0 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0

Global score Figure 7

Figure 6 - Near-infrared absorption spectra of skin pre­senting different dryness scores: from 1to4 (data from ref. 13).

Figure 7 - Correlation between the near-infrared absor­bance ( detected at 1936-1100 nm) and the globo I score (data from ref. 13).

meas urement method s. These observations form the basis for a more rationale investigation on the phenomena leading to abnormal keratini­zation and, hence, for the realization of more ef­fective moisturizing preparations (37-38).

M. Fresto, R. Pignotello ond G.Puglisi

Product app/ication: effectiveness evaluafion The NIR spectroscopy on slci n may also be ap­plied for determining in vivo the effectiveness of various moistu rizing formulations. After treatment of the skin with these kinds of pro­ducts, a significant increase in the NIR spectra absorbance throughout the wavelen gth range 1400-2200 nm (Fig. 8), coupled with a baseline offset enhancement, was observed (2). The re­duced scattering of the NIR radiation and a pro­bable increase in the water content of the stra­tum co rne um may mos t likely ex plain thi s event. A g loss ier appearance fo r treated sk in was observed under visible light by means of subjective analysis, showing a reduction of the

1.25

1.00

.. 0.75 u e

€ o 1l <( 0.50

1400 1600 180-0 2000 2200

Wavelength (nm)

Figure 8

Figure 8 - Near-infrared absorbance spectra before and after moisturizing product application (persona! data). The product was prepared according to re ference 2.

scatter phenomenon (2). In this case it is neces­sary to carry out spectra correction in order to extinguish absorbance increase due to scattering phenomena and to enhance the effects arising

63

Near-/nfrared Spectroscopy: a New Advance in Direct Measurement of Moisture in Skin

from the changes in water content (27-3 1 ). In this way, the determination of the effective wa­te r content change due to the application of co­smetic products is possible. Normally, the presence of a plasticizer in co­smetic formulations causes the follow ing ef­fects: (i) a reduction of the levels of free (band at 1879 nm) and prote in -bound wate r (bands near J 909 nm and 1927 nm), (i i) an increase of the amount of bulk water (band at 1890 nm). The decrease in free water was explained ( 13) in terms of increased flux through the skin surface, probably resulting in less water trapped within the stratum corneum, or of a reduction of the stratum corneum thickness. S imilar behaviour was shown by the prote in-bound wate r. On the other hand, the increase in 1890 nm band (bulk water) showed a most like ly enhancement of the penetration depth of the NIR radiation into the epidermis, as a consequence of the reduction in the stratum corneum th ickness. Therefore, the treatment of the skin w ith cosmetic products would cause an opposite effect on the stratum corneum thi ckness compared to the humidity. The stratum corneum thinning may be caused by the compact ing of the tissue or by removal o f the driest , o ute r portion of this Iayer. Thus , maintenance of moderate humidity values and application of moisturizing agents can both be beneficiai to skin through d ifferent mechanisms: increased s kin hydration (humidity) and skin smoothness (moisturizers).

Concluding remarks The validity of employing NlR spectroscopy for evaluating the skin conditions depends on both the depth from which the detected radiation is co­ming and the degree of change at this depth as a function of product application. In order to eva­luate moisturizing products, the NIR radiation penetration should be limited to the stratum cor­neum, as deeper penetration would result in a hi­gher apparent water content, owing to the greater degree of hydration of deeper layers of the skin.

64

Figure 9

Figure 9 - Schematization of the various phenomena which could occur as a consequence of rodiotion-skin interoction: o) specular reflectonce: b) diffuse reflec­tance: e) obsorption: d) multiple internal scattering.

The penetration level of the NIR rad iation is a function of various factors. After the interaction skin- radiation , diffe rent phenomenon may be observed (Fig. 9): (i) regular (specular or mi r­ror-like) reflection, (ii) absorption, (iii) internal scattering , (iv) diffuse reflectance. The contribu­tion of each phenomenon depends on the struc­ture, refractive index, absorptivity and scattering coefficient of the substrate. In particular, single scattering or multiple internal scattering are the main phenomena for radiation that do not pene­trate the stratum corneum. In fact, the stratified layers of fl attened cells, which constitu te the stratum corneum, provide severa! opportunities for inte rnal scattering (3 1 ). A parti al absorption of the NIR radiation into the deeper tissues may a lso be possible. lt was shown (33) that the part of the IR radiation that is not absorbed or scatte­red by the stratum corneum, is absorbed by the first layer of viable cells present in the epider­mis. In this case, the deeper penetration into tis­sue skin would not allow the return of the radia­tion to the surface and, hence, its detection and

determination. Changes in penetration depth of NIR radiation depend strongly on the refractive index and skin surface morphology(33-34, 39-40). In conclusion, NIR reflectance appears to show a potential as a method for evaluating funda­mental parameters to cosmetology, i.e., skin wa­ter content and smoothness. Fu11hermore, NIR may also offer a means for determining the thickness of the stratum corneum by the free water/bulk water intensities.

M. Fresta. R. Pignatello and G.Puglisi

65

Near-lnfrared Spectroscopy: a New Advance in Direct Measurement of Moisture in Skin

REFERENCES 1. A.M. Kligman (1978): Regression method for assess ing the effi cacy of moistu rizers. Cosmer

Toiletr 93: 27-35. 2. K.A. Martin (1993): Direct measurement of moisture in skin by NJR spectroscopy. J Soc Co­

smet Chem 44: 249-26 1. 3. M. Obata, H. Tagami (1990): A rapid in vitro test 10 assess skin moisturizers. J Soc Cosmer

Chem 41: 235-341. 4. R.O. Potts (1986): Stratum corneum hydratation: experimental techniques and interpretation

of results. J Soc Cosmet Chem 37: 9-33 and references cited therein. 5. J.R. Hansen, W. Yelin (1972): NMR and infrared spectroscopy srudies of stratum corneum

hydration. In Water Structure al the Water-Polymer !11te1faces, H.H.G. Jellinek (Ed.), Plenum Press, New York. pp. 19-28.

6. J.L. Leveque (1983): Physical methods for skin investigation. Int J Dermatol 22 : 368-375. 7. J.L. Leveque, G. Grove, J . de Riga i, P. Corcuff, A.M. Kligman, D. Saint Leger (1987):

Biophysical characterization of dry fac ial skin. J Soc Cosmer Chem 38: 171-177. 8. D. Saint Leger, A.M. F ra ncois, J.L. Leveque, T.J. Stoudemayer, A.M. Kligman, G. Grove

(1989): Stratum corneum lipids in skin xerosis. Dermatologica 178: 151-155. 9. A.W. Fu lmer, G.J. Kramer (1987): Stratum corneum abnormalities in surfactant-induced dry

scaly skin. J / 11vesr Dermato/ 82: 17 1-177. 10. M. Gloor, G. Hirch , U. Willebrand (1981): On the use of infrared spectroscopy for the in

vivo measurement of the water content of the horny layer after application of dermatologica! ointements. Arch Dermatol 271: 296-302

11. W. Gehring, M. Gehse, V. Zirnmerman, M. Gloor (1991): Effects of pH changes in a speci­fic detergent multicomponent emulsion on the water content of stratum corneum . .I Soc Co­smet Chem 42: 327-333.

12. R.O. Pots, D.B. Guzek, R.R. Harris, J.E. McKie (1985): A non-invasive, in vivo technique to quantitatively measure water concentration of the stratum corneum using attenuated tota! re­flectance infrared spectroscopy. Arch Dermatol Res 277: 489-495.

13. J. de Rigai, M.J. Losch, R. Bazin, C. Camus, C. Sturelle, V. Descarnps, J.L. Leveque (1993): Near-infrared spectroscopy: a new approach to the characterization of dry skin. J Soc Cosmet Chem 44: 197-209.

14. P.L. Walling, J.M. Dabney (1989): Moisture in skin by near-infrared reflectance spectro­scopy. J Soc Cosmer Chem 40: 151 -17 1.

15. Norris, J .R. Hart (1965): Direct spectrophotometric determ ination of moisture content in seeds. ln Proceeding of the 1963 /111emario11al Symposium on Humidity and Moisrure: Princi­ples and Methods of Measuring Moisture in Liquida and Solids, 4th ed., Reinhold, New York, pp. 19-25.

16. W.F. Maddams (1980): The scope and limitation of curve fitting. Appl Spectrosc 34: 245-267. 17. H.H. Mantsch, D.J. Moffatt, H.L. Casa! (1988): Fourier transform methods for spectral reso­

lution enhancement. J Mo! Struct 173: 285-298. 18. J .K. Kauppinen, D.J. Moffatt, H.H. Mantsch, D.G. Cameron (1981): Fourier transforms in

the computation of self-deconvoluted and first-order derivative spectra of overlapped band con­tours. Anal Chem 53: 1454-1457.

66

M. Fresta, R. Pignatello and G.Puglisi

19. P.R. Griffiths, G.L. Pariente (1986): Introduction to spectral deconvolution. Trends Ano/ Chem 5: 209-215.

20. H.H. Mantsch, H.L. Casal, R.N. Jones (1986): Resolution enhancement of infrared spectra of biologica) systems. In Specrroscopy of Biologica/ Systems, Advances in Spectroscopy, Voi. 13, R.J.H. Clark and R.E Hester (Eds.), Wiley & Sons, New York, pp. 1-46.

21. O.I. James, W.F. Maddams, P.B. Tooke (1987): The use of Fourier deconvolution in infrared spectroscopy. I. Studies with synthetic single-peak systems. Appl Spectrosc 41: 1362-1370.

22. J .K. Kauppinen, D.J . Moffatt, D.G. Cameron, H.H. Mantsch (1981): Noise in Fourier self­deconvolution. Appl Optics 20: 1866-1879.

23. R.J. Markovich, C. Pidgeon (1991): Introduction to Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and application in the pharmaceutical sciences. Pharm Res 8: 663-675.

24. P.R. Griffiths, J.A. de Haseth (1986): Fourier transform infrared spectrometry. In Chemical Analysis, voi 83, Wiley & Sons, Inc., New York.

25. A.A. Michelson (1892): Phi/os Mag 34: 28. 26. G. Horlick (1968): Introduction to Fourier transfo1111 spectroscopy. Appl Specrrosc 22: 617-626. 27. P. Geladi, D. MacDougall, H. Martens (1985): Linearization and scatter correction for near­

infrared reflectance spectra of meat. Appl Spectrosc 39: 49 1-500. 28. K.A. Martin (1992): Recent advances in near-infrared spectroscopy. App/ Spectrosc Rev 27:

325-383. 29. K.A. Osborne, T. Fearn (1986): Near lnfi'ared Spectroscopy in Food analysis. Longman

Scientific and Technology, New York, pp. 49-5 1. 30. J.D. Hardy, H.T. Hammel, D. Murgatroyd (1956): Spectral transmittance and reflectance of

excised human skin. J Appl Physiol 9: 257-264. 31. R.R. Anderson, J . Hu, J.A. Parrish: Optical radiation transfer in the human skin and applica­

tion in in vivo remittance spectroscopy. In Bioengineering and rhe skin, R. Marks, P.A. Payne (Eds.), MPT Press, Lancaster, England, l 981 , pp. 253-265.

32. W.A. Luck (1976) : Hydrogen bonds in liquid water. In The Hydrogen Bond, voi III, P. Shuster, G. Zundel and C. Sandorty (Eds.). Elsevier, Amsterdam, pp. 1369-1423.

33. R.J. Scheuplein (1964): A survey of some fundarnental aspects of the absorption and reflec­tion of light by tissue. J Soc Cosmer Chem 15: 1 l l-122.

34. J.L. Solan, K. Laden (1977): Factors affecting the penetration of light through stratum cor­neum. J Soc Cosmet Chem 28: 125-137.

35. P.T. Pugliese, A.J. Milligan (1981): Ellipsometric measurement of skin refractive index in vivo. In Bioengineering and rhe Skin, R. Marks and P.A. Payne (Eds.), MTP Press, Lancaster, England, pp. 291-302.

36. J.L. Leveque, J. de R igai (1983): Irnpedance methods for studying skin rnoisturization. J Soc Cosmer Chem 34: 4 I 9-428.

37. J .L. Leveque, M. Escoubez, L. Rasseneur (1987): Water-keratin interaction in human stra­turn corneum. Bioeng Skin 3: 227-242.

38. J.L. Leveque, L. Aubert (1987): Methodes dfetude du pouvroir hydratant des cosmetiques. J Med Estb 54: l 17-122.

39. A.J. Quattrone, K. Laden (1976): Physical techniques for assessing skin rnoisturization. J Soc Cosmet Chem 27: 607-623 .

40. T.M. Kajs, V. Garstein (1991): Review of the instrurnental assessment of skin: effects of clea­ning products. J Soc Cosmer Chem 42: 249-271.

67

J. Appl. Cosmeto/. 13, 69 - 76 (Ju/y - September 1995)

LOOKING GOOD/FEELING GOOD: ETHNOGRAPHY OF COSMETIC TRACE ITEMS FOUND IN REFUSE DATA LINDA MARIE SMALL

P.0. Box 31773

Tucson, Arizona 85751-1773 USA

Received: May 16, 7995

Key Words: Cosmetics; Refuse Data; Behavioral lnference: Social-Self lnstantiation.

Synopsis Cosmetic use by women forms a part of the instantiation of the social-self. Refuse studies have gai­ned momentum as more accurate indicators of behavior than data from informant recali or intimate self-revelation. Cosmetics as rare-item discards have behavioral inference value in studies designed to detail specific use indicators on a multi-nation scale for adaptation of applied techniques to fit current locai images of female. Comparative refuse data may aid design and marketing strategies as well. Women were interviewed from southwestern United States metropolitan areas. The Tucson Garbage Project supplied cosmetic item discard data from economie strata comparable to the women over a 15 year period for contrast with ethnographic recali data.

Riassunto L'uso che le donne fanno dei cosmetici fa parte del processo di adeguamento del Sè sociale ad un modello. Gli studi sui rifiuti si sono imposti come indicatori comportamentali più precisi rispetto ai dati forni ti dalla rievocazione informante e dalla r ivelazione del Sè intimo. I cosmetici, considerati come rifiuti di articoli di uso non comune, hanno capacità di deduzione comportamentale negli studi diretti ad ottenere un quadro dettagliato di indicatori d'uso specifici su scala multinazionale ai fini dell'adeguamento delle tecniche appl icate alle immagini co.12:enti della donna in un dato luogo. I dati comparativi sui rifiuti possono anche essere utili alla elaborazione delle strategie di progetta­zione e marketing. Lo studio prevedeva l'intervista di donne provenienti da aree metropolitane nel sud-ovest degli Stati Uniti. Nell 'arco di 15 anni il "Tucson Garbage Project" ha fornito dati sui rifiuti costituiti da cosme­tici provenienti da strati economici confrontabili con le donne intervistate, al fine di contrapporli ai dati etnografici ricavati dalla rievocazione.

69

Looking good/feeling good: ethnogrophy of cosmetic trace items found in refuse doto.

Refuse data was se lected as an indicator of co­smetic fashion and use-trends that image the US woman because it does not involve persona! re­cali of intimate informat ion that many Ameri­can women rnay be hesi tant to share because of its feminist association w ith vanity and id leness. Refu se research has been c ited as prov iding more accurate indicators of hum an beh av ior (Wallendorf & Wilson 1986) than interview or survey recali methods. Thi s s tudy cu lled discard cosmetics item re­mains from designated garbage collection areas over a tifteen-year period in the city of Tucson, Arizona. Compiling indiv iduai year collection data to formulate a use factor for comparison of representat ive socio-econom ic areas and log­g ing cosmetic discards per household suppon the conc lus ion that women have adj usted the ir physical appearence to conform to chang ing conceptions of female image and fem inine phy­sical appearance. Review of hiscorical print me­dia and ethnography provide furrher re inforce­ment of th is conclusion.

DATA SOURCES As students of this idiom of bodily expression, cosmetic consultants and consumers of cosmetic applica ti on instruc tion were chosen as e thno­graphic informants on cosmetic use in women 's everyday lives. Cosmetic item discards were se­lected as potential indicators of use, color-prefe­rence, and fashion surge trends for the study po­pu lation over an extended period of time. Ad­vertis ing and fashions trends licerature on these elements was a lso scanned.

METHOD Ethnography recorded women 's cosmetic prepa­ra ti on area types, products, tools and actual ap­pl ication processes. A makeup process que­stionna ire de terrnined the number of items by cosmetic category used in one cosmetics appli­cation session and the sequence of each wo-

70

man 's makeup routine. Women informants were ranked by ho useho ld income leve! in to low, middle, and high inco­me serata. Cosmetic items from like incarne ne ighborhoods were selected from project data fil es (Rathje 199 1) using the household as che basic uni t of inquiry from 1976- 199 1 for pos­s ible use-trend variations by socio-economie c lass, by year, and by cosmetic co lo r-fashion over this fifteen year time frame. lnformat ion obtained could then be compared by socioeco­nomic gro ups by first computing the tota! number of artifac t finds and dividing this figu­re by che number of household pick-ups that contai ned cosmetic di sca rds . Thi s tota ! was then d ivided by the tota! number of househo ld coll ections in that tract for a given year. For example, 8 cosmeti c items fo und in 7 of 44 household trash pick-ups in that tract during the year yie lded a consumption or '"use factor" of 0.026. A socioeconomic representat ive col­leccion-section was selected in low, middle, and hig h income ne ighborhoods for compari­son with ethnographi c data from s ubjects in like economi e leve ls (Table One). The e tlrno­graphic data, in turn, supplied recali cosmetic­use information for comparison wi th behavio­ra l inferences g lea ned from trace meas ures found in the refuse data (Wallendorf & Nelson 1986).

RESULTS The 12 e thnograph ic su bject fel I as follow s with in the three incarne gro ups of und e r $20,000 per year (4), $20 to $40,000 (3), and over $40,000 per year (5). Table One shows the " use-factor" calculated from cosmetic item di­scard in three refuse tract populations compara­ble with these three categories of househol inco­me. In some years no representative economie strata was available in the refuse data. This is indicateci by (---) for that leve! in that year. (table I)

L. M. Small

Table I DISCARD FACTORS BY SOCIO-ECONOMIC NEIGHBORHOODS

YEAR LOW 1976 0.026 ---- -1977 0.023 1978 0.008

~--

1979 0.049 1980 0.045 1981 0.066 1982 0.050 1983 0.050 1984 0.050 1985* 0.074 1986 0.042 1987 0.138 1988 -r- 0.066 1989 0.063 1990* -1 0.200 1991 r 0.010

INCOME LEVEL MIDDLE J

0.034 0.032 0.050 0.089 0.045 0.103 I 0.072 0.044 0.128 +-0.273 0.050 0.069

0.033 0.105

--1 -

HIGH 0.029 0.026 ~---

0.034 0.060 O. 125 0.222 0.143 0.100 0.000 0.227 0. 104

0.091

TABLE I. The column on the left reflects the year these data were collected. The three columns on the right reflect the discard rate of cosmetic items for that year in a representative collec tion tract for the income range designated at the top of the column. Discard (use or consumption) figures were calculated by taking the total number of items remaining after non-daily body decoration products and tools were eliminated and dividing it by the tota] number of household pickups that contained cosmetic items. This figure was then divided by the tota! number of pickups in that tract for the enti re year: i.e. Tract I 1 (low income), Year 76=8 items in 7 of 44 pickups for 0.026 (--) indicates no data were available for neighborhoods in that economie group for that year.

Two surges in discard rate of cosmetic items are noted. The year 1985 shows an increase in co­smetic item discard, particularly for the middle and upper income populati ons . A second co­smetic-item-find surge is noted in 1990, most notably in low and middle income populations. (tableII)

In the survey each woman listed the items she used in he r da il y makeup routine by product type such as eye color, lip color and hair care, often using more than one product in each cate­gory. The mean number of products used on the

hair was 1.75 and on the face was 14. The ran­ges for number of products used were 1-3 on the hair and 5-23 on the face. The median number of products used on the face was 13. Makeup appliances recorded included a 20-year-old retractable lipst ick brush, $ 15.00 small, sable brushes, lash curlers, eyebrow combs, a mirror that responded with a wolf-whistle when gazed into, mechanical penci ls, lighted mirrors, and a photography flood light. Often makeup was put on at ritual-l ike altars such as a handmade desk with special ized ligh­ti ng, a wire and glass frame vanity wi th mat-

71

Looking good/feelmg good ethnogrophy of cosmet1c trace Jfems found 1n refuse data.

Table Il SAMPLE OF SPECIFIC ITEM DISCARD SHOWING GROUP DISCARD PATTERN

YR I TR HHID NPP I ITEMS FLOZ

78 19 783893 94 78

I 19 785392 94 -

78 19 I 785393 94 78 19 785393 94

78 -t 19 785993 94 78 19 787492 94 78 19 78829 1 I 94 78 19 788292 ~ 94 78 19 788293 94 78 19 788293 94 78 ~ 19 788293 94 78 19 788293 94 ,_______ 78 19 788293 94 78 ->- m 8293 94

f-

78 19 788293 94 78 19 788293 94 78 19 I 788293 94

I

78 19 788293 94 ---+- --

78 I 19 788293 94 78 19 788293 94 78 19 788293 94 78 19 788293 94 78 19 788293 94 78 . - ,9 l 788293 94 18 I 19

- e-788294 94

78 19 788294 94 78 19 78889 1 94 78 19 I 788891 94 78 78 78 7 7 8 8

19 788891 94 19 I 788994 94 - >--19 789695 94 19 789995 I 94 19 790391 94

I 1.0 1 O.O l 2.3 -1 O.O 2 O.O 4 O.O l 32.0 I O.O I 2.0 I O.O l o.o -I O.O

e- -I O.O l I.O -I O.O i -I 8.0 l I.O I O.O I 0.5 l o.o i I o.o

~

I 0.4 I

l 1.0 j I I 0.5 I 1 6.0 l O.O j I o.o I O.O l 3.0 1 24.0 I 3.5 l o.o l I o.o

I TYPE -

sooz PRICE WA BRAND (A O.O 0.00 o Eaudetoi . Cologne DA

T

o.o 0.00 o Revson Blush D

I ~ o.o 6.50 o Norell Cologne o.o 0.00 o Elisabeth Brush 6.2 I 0.00 o Raindeso Suntancr j CD o.o t 0.00 o Pads T o.o I 1.49 o Listerin Mouthwash A

16.0 l.1 9 o Walgreen . Petrojel IDR o.o r 0.00 o Esteelau Creme D o.o 0.00 o Moondrop Lipstick DB o.o 0.00 o Esteelau Mascara DB -O.O 0.00 o Moondrop Lipstick J DB o.o 0.00 o Savant Cologne A o.o 0.00 o Redken Haircond

1 D ,_ -

0.3 0.00 o ~ Tussy Mascara ED -

O.O I 0.00 o Chantill Cologne ED o.o 0.29 o Rosemilk ~Icincrem~ D 0.5 0.00 4 Queenhel Beautycr D O.O 0.00 o Purfmagi Mascara

j~B o.o 0.00 o Cutex . Lipstick -~ - >--

o.o 0.00 o Li uenc _ Li.p~~ick -- --O.O 0.00 o Maxilash Mascara o.o 0.00 o Windsong_ Bathoil ED o.o I 0.00 o Puremagi Mascara D ro ,_ -O.O 0.00 Caron Babylotion ED o.o mm Revon Manicure A

f-

t~B 0.6 o Revlon Com act 4.0 4.00 o Helenaru Base

E

o.o 1.70 o Cl ari o I Hairdye ~ o.o 1.99 o Listerrni Mouthwash ED - -O.O 0.00 o Vaseline Creme D o.o 0.00 o Emeryboard A O.~ 0.00 o No re li Cologne EB

TABLE II. This table is a representative data set from the Tucson Garbage Project at the Univer­sity of Arizona in the year 1978 in tract 19. The designations are from left to right: year, tract, ID number of that specific pickup, number of pickups per year, number of items of that category, fluid ounces, solid ounces, price, waste, brand, type, and materiai conteni of item or its packa­ging. This table shows how many items were found per household pickup as each item found in a specific pickup has the same ID number in column three: see number 788293 as an example.

72

ching chair, and marbleized counter tops with triofold display mirrors and an intricate array of products and tools. New offering of health and beauty products numbering 1,614 were made to American con­s u mers in 199 1 alo ne (S tatistica! Abstract 1992). Faludi ( 199 1) asserts that at work is a reconstructio n of fema le gender identity in which women themse lves are taking an active part. Makeup application and dress, as female social-identity display (Wiessner 1984), enga­ges individuai women daily in the creation of a self-fas hioned soc ia! perso na (Goffm an 1959). Similarly, a brief s urvey o f literature on fa­shionable fema le images, makeup trends, and beauty product sales revealed changing con­ceptions of "Looking Good/Feelin Good" that correspond to the two surges in cosmetic di­scard for 1985 and 1990 note in the refuse data above (Table One) . To be chic in the seventi es was to portray ma­sc ulini zed concepti ons of competence upon fe male bod ies (Fai udi 1991 ). Wornen in the Uniteci States wore brig ht covering, mask-like make up (Facing Up 199 1, Goffman 1979). Women assumed masculine notions of compe­tence, reasoned judjement, and effici ency in the wearing o f pallid c lo thing hues in a sub­due dressing sty le. Popular feminity became a c haracteri zatio n of masculine dressing-for­succes sty le (Malloy 1977) . In contrast, stiletto heels, frill s, bows, cabba­ge roses , bel I ski rts, and the Vi c to ri an-gi rl look p itched nosta lg ia and high feminity as the attire for modem American women of the eighties (Fa ludi 1991 ). Thus, the exuberant make-up coplors of the seventies gave way to the pallor of the eigh­ties and then to the earth images and shades of the nineties (Ferry 199 1; Facing Up 199 1) . Cosmetics of th e nine ties fas hi on li terature enhance as "pre tty", as " looking/good/feeling good", the natural attributes of women.

L M Sma//

DISCUSSION Specialized appliance and products, as in most ritual acti vity (Douglas & Isherwood 1983), were used in daily makeup applications to in­stanciate the individuai woman within the desi­red socia! order/norms (Douglas 1966). It is the physicality of these artifacts themselves, rather than conceptualization , that aids the work of ri­tual actions (Bourdieu 1982; Connerton 1989; Miller 1987) providi ng magica] empowerrnent and projection of the culturally defined female image. Women used rnakeup to embody themselves as persons of cornpetence and status. "I feel bette r looking like I belong in the business world'', stateci one woman. A post-surgical patient was seeking to draw attention away from the asym­metry of her mouth so as to establish herself as competent in reference to her work. " I wear makeup and put others at ease ... I want a certain presence". Other women described the persona created th­rough makeup as a socia! strategy. " ... if you look good, the jobs are open to you". "Makeup makes one more confident" . Key issues of acceptance, esteem, and status form the core incenti ves in interpersonal inte­ract io n (A ro noff & Wi lson 1985; Goffman 1959). Makeup and other components of dress and ornamenta ti on (Brown 1990; Comaroff 1992) are means of projecting socia! identity as well as active tools in socia! strategies to gain des ired persona! o utcomes (Weissner 1984 ; Goffman 1967). Refuse research contribu tes to observations, ethnography, and survey sources of data. By se­lecting residential tracts comparable with the in­come levels, of informants it is possible to fol­low both data sources over time. I speculateci that use, color, and fashion trends could be cui­led from discard data and compared by income levels and that refuse trace data may previde more accurate descriptives than singular re lian­ce upon personal-recall surveys, narrative data,

73

Looking good/feeling good· ethnography of cosmetic trace items found in refuse data.

advertising copy. The research sample 's data does show the fre­quent appearance of a number of cosmetic items in one household collection. This group occurrence of discarded cosmetic items may indicate that women were following fashion trends by purchasing at one time the latest in colors of lipstick, rouge, mascara and founda­tion to ach ieve this new look. (See Table Two household collection 788293 with multiples of lipstick and mascara items). Also discernible from the refuse data is that cosmetics were found in the discards of ali so­cioeconomic groups in this metropolitan area over the fifteen year period. Consumption per household appears to have increased from the mid seventies through the early eighties, the period during which the most extensive data are available. Thereafter, us ing the more limi­ted data samples, a surge in consumption based on the rate of di scard per tract per year was shown in the years l 985 and 1990. Compara­bly, beginning in 1990, according to fashion li­terature and ethnography informants, a color and image shift in body decoration did occur. There were, however, factors that impacted the certitude of the descriptive value of thi s refuse data. Colors of cosmetic items were frequently not recorded. Thus, it could not be seen throu­gh the refu se data a lone if products fl owed from the dark, mask-like covering makeup of the sevent ies to the more natural products and colors of the nineties reported by my infor­mants and supported by print media sources. Because of changes in garbage collection con­tainers, routes, and coll ection method s, the same trac ts could no t be followed for each year. In the later years, fewer tracts were sam­pled and fewer samples were taken per tract, leading to possible decreased accuracy of di­scard rates per household due to the fewer number of collections available.

74

CONCLUSION

The generai finding in the refuse data of fre­quent multiple rare-item discard pattern lends standing and import to group replacement of cosmetics as reflective of cultural changes in co nception s of fe male identity while th e yearly "use-factors" support the timing of fa ­shi on trends reported in print media. Ethno­graphic data substantiated these broad inferen­ces made from the cosmetic refuse findin gs g i­ving this research data behav ioral and trend va lue despite the small number of cosmetics samples avail able. Refuse trace-item study carefully recording spe­cific data details has potential for cross-cultural research. This could be more simply studied by ethnic-economic neighborhood strata rather than by household, making refuse research s i­multaneously applicable in multi-nation studies.

L. M. Small

REFERENCES 1. Aronoff, J. and J. Wilson (1985): Personality in the Socia! Process. Hillsdale, New Jersey:

Erlbaum Associates. 2. Bourdieu, P. (1982): Outline of a Theory of Practice. Cambridge: Cambridge Univers ity

Press. 3. Brown, P. and M. Konner (1990): An Anthropological Perspective on Obesity in Human

Obesity. Annuals of the New York Academy of Sciences 499. 4. Comaroff, J.(1992): The Empire's Old Clothes: Refashioning the Colonia! Subject. Lecture.

Anthropo logy Building. University of Arizona. October 29. 5. Connerton, P. (1989): How Societies Remember. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. 6. Douglas, M. (1966): Purity and Danger: An Analysis of the Concepts of Pollution and Taboo.

New York: Routledge. 7. Douglas, M. and B. Isherwood (1982): in House Power: Swahili Space and Symbolic

Markers. by L. Donley in Symbolic And Structural Archaeology, I Hodder, Ed. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

8. Facing Up (1991): The World Cosmetics lndustry in Business. The Economist. July 13. 9. Faludi, S. (1991) Blacklash, The Undeclared War Against American Women. New York:

Crown Publishers, lnc. 10. Ferry, J. (1991): Europe Targets U.S. Market: Goodebodies: Another Version of Body Shop?

in DCI. September. 11. Goffman, E. (1959): The Presentation of Self In Everyday Life. Garden City, New York:

Doubleday & Co., lnc. 1967 Interactional Ritual: Essays on Face to face Behavior. Garden City, New York: Double day & Co., Inc. 1979 Gender Advertisements. New York: Harper & Row Publishers.

12. Malloy, J. (1977): The Woman 's Dress for Success Book. New York: Warner Books. 13. Miller, D. (1987): Materiai Culture and Mass Consumption. Basi! Blackwell, Inc. 14. Rathje, J. (1976-1991): The Tucson Garbage Project. Research Director. Tucson: University

of Arizona. 15. Statistica! Abstract of the United States (1992): Washington: Govemment Printing Office. 16. Wallendorf, M; and D. Nelson (1986): An Archaeological Examination of Ethnic Differences

in Body Care Rituals. Psychology and Marketing 3:273-289. 17. Wiessner, P. (1984): Reconsidering the Behavioral Basis for Style: A case Study Among the

Kalahari San. Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 3: 190-234.

75

J. Appl. Cosmetol. 13. 77 - 79 (July - September 1995)

Il SEOUL INTERNATIONAL DERMATOLOGY SYMPOSIUM Seoul, Korea

May 1 1 - 14, 1995 L. C. PARISH, M.D.,

Clinica/ Professor of Dermatology, Jefferson Medicai College of Thomas Jefferson University, Philadelphia. Pennsylvania

Over 400 hundred dermatologists from around the world convened at the Seoul Hilton Hote l for the II Seou l International Dermatology Sym­posium (SIDS). The highly successful meeting, jointly sponsored by the Departments of Derma­tology Yonsei University College of Medicine, Seoul , Korea and Jefferson Medicai College of Thomas Je ffe rson Un ivers ity, Philadelphia , Pennsylvani a, inc luded partic ipan ts from En­g land, France, Jta ly, Malta, S ingapore, and Ja­pan, as well from Korea and the United States.

Plenary Sessions Highlig hts o f the meeting included an opening address by Jouni Uitto , Chairman of Dermato­logy at Jefferson, who spoke on molecular ge­netics. He po inted o ut th at recent molecular c loning o f cDNA and genomic sequences en­cod in g of cuta neo us membrane s tructura l components have g iven a new understanding to the interaction and quanti ties fou nd in the baseme nt me mbran e. T hi s in formatio n has been utilized in the pre-natal di agnosis of epi­dermal bullosa and has afforded the Iuxury of appropriate gene ti c counsel ing.

Yoon-Kee Park, Chairman at Yonsei, discus­sed the circulat ing antibod ies to melanocytes found in viti ligo pa tients. These can be stu­died thro ug h indirect immunofluorescence, li ve cel i ELISA, and immunoblotting, the for­me r s howing pos iti ve immunofluorescence

and hi gh optical density o n the melanocytic surface . This points towards an immuno logie e tiol ogy of vit iligo with sera autoantibodies reacting with melanocytic s urface anti gens. Psora le n are highl y useful in treatment, but the q uest ion a rises as to the most effective type: 8-MOP, TMP, or 5-MOP.

Melasma, according to Young Kauh , Clin ica! Director at Jefferson, may respond be tter but at leas t as equally well to indi viduai applica­tion of tretino in O. I% and hydroquinone 3%, rather than as a combina tion preparation. The disease, o nce called chloasma, appears to be different in Korean women.

Epidermo lys is bull osa acqui sita may have a h igher in cidence in K oreans than bullou s pemphigoid. Chang Woo Lee of Hanyang Uni­versity, Korea found that there may be immu­nogenetic fac tors permitting the development of autoantibodi es against type VII col lagen. Sadao Imamura, Chairman of Dermatology at Kyoto Uni vers ity, Japan pointed out that the main an itgenic site is fou nd in the non-colla­genous do ma in of type VII collagen.

In the symposium on medicai education, Jo­seph Gon ella, Dean of Jefferson, noted that med icai education has changed sign ificant ly in the last decade due to the decrease in in-pa­tients and the need for securing out-patient fa­c i l ities fo r teaching. The American govern-

77

Il Seoul lnternotionol Oermotology S1mpos1um

ment is emphasizing primary care; th is has re­sulted in changes to the curriculum.

Clinica/ dermatology John Hawk of St. John 's Institute of Dermato­logy in London lectured o n the changing con­cepts, concerning polymo rphic light eruptio n, chronic actin ic dermatitis, ac tinic prurigo, hy­droa vacciniforme, and solar urticaria. Rather than be ing idiopathi c d iseases, they may ac­tually be immunomodulated . Thi s concept al­lows a more rational use of PUVA therapy and immunosuppressive drugs such as cyclospori ­ne and asothioprine.

lnfectious diseases also played an important pa re of the conference. Lawrence Parish, Di ­rector of the Jefferson Center for International Dermatology, presented an a tl as of less com­mon bacterial diseases. Cutaneous diphtheria, anthrax, and Ii ste riosis occur in various parts o f the world and the diagnosis can be easil y missed. Mindy Schu ster of the Divis ion of ln­fectious Diseases of th e Un iversity of Penn ­sylvani a, Philadelphia called attention to the " fl esh-eating bacte ria," the invasive Group A Streptococci. These g ram posit ive cocci can destroy large amounts o f tissue and even cause a toxic shock syndro me. Because erythema in­duratum of Bazin is part of the spectrum of di­seases caused by the tubercle bacillus, combi ­nation anti-tuberculous should be used , stateci Kwang-Hyun Cho of Seoul National Univer­sity. Microsporum canis, Trichophyton verru­cosum, and T. mentagrophytes are the zoophi­lic dermatophytes found in Ko rea, according to Jae Bock Jun of Kyunpook National Uni­versity, Korea. Parish noted that the macrolide clarithromycin is usefu l in the treatment not only of pyodermas but a lso of leprosy, atypi­cal mycobacterial diseases, and even rosacea, which is now thoug ht to be caused by Helico­bacter pylori.

78

Aesthetic dermato/ogy

In the sympos ium on cos meti cs, J ea n-Pau l Marty of Uni versity Paris Sud, France called atte ntion to the proble ms in the Euro pean Community where there are different safety and efficacy requ irements in vario us coun ­tries. He also po inted out that cosmetics or toi­letries when appli ed to the skin may diffuse through the barrie r, a lbeit small , and induce a biol ogica] e ffect tha t may be benefi c ia i or even tox ic. H yun g- Ok Kim , Ca th o l ic University Medicai Co llege, Korea, furthered thi s concept, sta t ing tha t so me cos me ti cs could be call ed topica! drugs, if appropria te claims are made and they are often marked at cos meceutical. Thi s occurs parti cularly with products for aging, wrinkles, and skin repair.

90% of the skin 's aging is due to sun damage, according to Pierfrancesco Morganti , II Uni­versity of Naples, Ita ly. The natural killer celi again st me lano ma target cell s is deacti vated by both UVA and UVB , so that sunscreens, ef­fective against bo th UVA and UVB , are in­creasingly impo rtant. Micron ized zinc ox ide and titanium diox ide may be cons idered the new safe sunscreen and betacarotene the more acti ve syste mic photoprotecti ve agent. Larry Millikan, Chairman o f Dermato logy at Tul ane Uni versity, New Orlean s reviewed the vari ous filler materiai avai lable, including both bovine coll agen and Fibre!.

Alpha-hydroxyacids have recently emerged as the exc iting agent of the l 990 's. Altho ug h known for over twenty years, they are now being used increasing ly in cosmetic prepara­tio ns and as peel s . They appear to augment epi dermal thickness and to increase derm a! g lycosaminoglycans, according to Eric Bern­stein of Jefferson. Their uses range from dimi­nishing acne scarring to reducing wrinkles.

A syrnposiurn on lasers concluded the con­gress. Bernstein discussed pulsed dye lasers and ultrapulsed C02 Jasers which can be used for treating hernangiornas, skin resurfacing, and even hair transplantation. Gary Lask of UCLA reported that tin ethyl et io purpurin (Snet2), a hernatoporphyrin derivative, can be used as a photosensitizer with a laser to treat a variety of rnalignancies, including the basai celi nevus syndrome.

Finale There was an excell ent socia! prograrn that in­cluded a performance of Korean folk dances. There was also opportunity to investigate the exciting cu ltura] and shopping act ivities of Seoul that now numbers over 12 million resi­dents. We look forward to III Seoul Internatio­nal Derrnatology Symposiurn , pl an ned for 1998.

reported by Lawrence Charles Parish, M.D., Clini ca! Professor of Dermatology, Jefferson Medicai College of Tho rnas Jefferson University, Phil adelphia, Pennsylvania

correspond to: 1819 J.F. Kennedy Boulevard Philadelphia, PA 19103 te! 215/563-8333 fax 215/563-3044

L.C. Par1sh

79

Chiuso in tipografia: September 15, 1995 Joumal of Applied Cosmetology published quarterly by INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME, Via Innocenzo XI, 4 I

00 I 65 Roma Italy. Direttore responsabile P. Morganti. Direzione, Redazione ed Amministrazione: Via Innocenzo

Xl. 41 - 00165 Roma ltaly. Stampa: Grafica Flaminia, Roma. Impaginazione: GRAFO Comunicazione Visiva,

Roma. Spedizione in abbonamento postale gruppo 50% Roma. Aut. del Trib. di Roma n. 3 173/83 del 8-7-83.

INTEGRATORE DI ACIDO GAMMA-UNOLENICO CON UN APPORTO DI 80 mg PER OGNI CAPSULA

EFAGEL INTEGRATORE DI

ACIDO GAMMA·LINOLENICO

Olio di borragine In capsule dn g 0.5

• ATTIVO CONTRO L'ECZEMA ATOPICO • ELETTIVO NELLE SINDROMI IMMUNO-ALLERGICHE

DELL'APPARATO CUTANEO • ATTIVO NELLE IPERCHERATOSI

Lw. man DEe.\V <XOOV

La ricerca scientifica nella dermocosmesi Per campioni medici e documentazione scientifica scrivere a: MAVI SUD s.r.l. - Viale dell'Industria, 1 - 04011 Aprilia (LT)

o E ~

~ HYPOALLERGENIC ~ mav1 COSMETIC PRODUCTS mav1