24 Travel Digest, February 2008

samoa

outstanding accommodation, day spas and excellent views of the crystal clear waters along the reef. The Sinalei Reef Resort is set in 33 acres of lush tropical gardens and offers 27 fales with a range of water sports to choose from.

Samoa’s newest beachfront resort, Seabreeze Resort, has a point of difference in that it is the only mid range air-conditioned accommodation on the beach in Upolu Island. We stop here for lunch with Australian-born owners Chris and Wendy Booth and enjoy a delicious Waloo (fresh fish) meal, smothered in a gourmet chili garlic sauce out on the gorgeous 50-seat restaurant deck overlooking the reef. All ocean view queen rooms and reef family rooms overlook the private beach.

Taufua Beach Fales along the way are the perfect place to stay if you are sticking to a tight budget. Their prices are very reasonable and include both breakfast and dinner and the fales are literally right on the beach, perfect for swimming, snorkeling and diving! There’s a distinct, friendly backpacker-style atmosphere in the common area, full of the chatter of travellers around the world telling their own stories. Some good company, a van and a mattress are all you really need to have a good time here.

Our next stop is Piula Cave pool, a crystal clear freshwater pool that follows deep into a cave and out through the other side of the rocky outcrop. A quick dip in here is all I need to freshen myself up, although I’m a bit hesitant to make the dive through to the other side of the cave.

My accommodation for the night is Aggie Grey’s Hotel and Bungalows, a place rich in history and tradition, which was started in 1933 by the late Aggie Grey, as a resting spot for American troops in the Pacific. My room is a deluxe garden bungalow which very roomy.

The hotel has a large swimming pool and all the facilities one would expect from a five-star property.

The next morning we catch a one hour 15 minute ferry ride to Savaii Island, the larger main island of Samoa. The island is home to an active volcano, which last erupted in 1911. The Saleaula lava fields, caused by eruptions in the early 20th century, are extensive and run for miles along the coastline.

Our next stop is by far my favourite activity to do in Samoa - swimming with the turtles at Satoalepai Wetlands. There are about 20 turtles raised here in a fresh-water pool. The local village look after them and at about $4 per entry, this is definitely great value. You can bring your own snorkelling gear and gracefully float amongst this great creatures who are more than friendly and don’t seem to mind the extra

attention. The attraction has been set up to raise awareness of these supreme creatures and help safeguard their future in Samoa.

At Savaii at Le Lagoto Beach Resort (Samoan for sunsets and pronounced La-no-to) I enjoy one night’s stay. Located on a white sandy, secluded beach, this boutique resort offers five beachfront fales, five Oceanside fales and a beachhouse apartment. This resort is obviously popular with every room fully booked out, much to the disappointment of my tour guide who has made other arrangements at the beach fales further down the coast. It’s the low season in January so I’m sure their high season (March - April) will be very fruitful. A small infinity pool is located on the beach and the kids seem to love playing here. My beachfront fale is conveniently located beside this pool and is not too far from the bar either!

The best way to make your way around Sinalei Reef Resort and Spa

Robert Louis Stevenson Museum