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Rover 820, 825 & 827 1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

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Page 1: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)
Page 2: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Rover 820, 825 & 827Service and Repair ManualJ. S. MeadModels coveredRover 820, 825, 827 and Sterling models with 4-cylinder and V6 petrol engines,including special/limited editions1994 cc, 2494 cc & 2675 cc Does not cover 8-valve carburettor (petrol) engine or Diesel-engined models

(1380-304-11AA3)

© Haynes Publishing 1997

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmittedin any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, includingphotocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system,without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 273 8

British Library Cataloguing in Publication DataA catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,Somerset BA22 7JJ

Haynes PublishingSparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska ABBox 1504, 751 45 Uppsala, Sweden

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRST1 2 3

Page 3: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Contents

LIVING WITH YOUR ROVERIntroduction Page 0•4

Safety First! Page 0•5

General dimensions and weights Page 0•6

Roadside RepairsJacking, towing and wheel changing Page 0•7

Jump starting Page 0•9

Identifying leaks Page 0•10

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system – precaution Page 0•10

Conversion Factors Page 0•11

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

Routine maintenance and servicingRoutine maintenance Page 1•1

Servicing Specifications Page 1•2

Lubricants, fluids and capacities Page 1•3

Maintenance schedule Page 1•4

Maintenance procedures Page 1•8

Weekly checks Page 1•8

Every 6000 or six months Page 1•11

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months Page 1•13

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years Page 1•23

Every 48 000 miles Page 1•26

Every 60 000 miles or 5 years Page 1•26

Page 4: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

REPAIRS & OVERHAULEngine and Associated Systems4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures Page 2A•1

V6 engine – in-car engine repair procedures Page 2B•1

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures Page 2C•1

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1

Fuel and exhaust systems – Single-point injection engines Page 4A•1

Fuel and exhaust systems – Lucas multi-point injection engines Page 4B•1

Fuel and exhaust systems – MEMS multi-point injection engines Page 4C•1

Fuel and exhaust systems – Honda PGM-Fi injection engines Page 4D•1

Fuel and exhaust systems – Emissions control systems Page 4E•1

Engine electrical systems Page 5•1

TransmissionClutch Page 6•1

Manual transmission Page 7A•1

Automatic transmission Page 7B•1

Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes Braking system Page 9•1

Suspension and SteeringSuspension and steering systems Page 10•1

Body Equipment Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1

Body electrical systems Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•19

REFERENCEMOT Test Checks Page REF•1

General Repair Procedures Page REF•5

Tools and Working Facilities Page REF•6

Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Numbers Page REF•9

Fault Finding Page REF•10

Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF•18

Index Page REF•23

Contents

Page 5: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Designed in conjunction with the HondaMotor Company of Japan, the Rover 800series was launched in the UK in July 1986 asa replacement for the ageing Rover SD1.Initially available in four-door Saloon guise, aFastback version was added to the range inmid-1988. Minor styling revisions wereapplied to various models in the interveningyears, culminating in a major facelift to allmodels for the 1992 model year. This saw theintroduction of the “second generation” Rover800 series with significant styling andengineering revisions, together with thelaunch of the Coupe model later in the sameyear.

Three different engines are used in theRover models covered by this manual. 820 models are powered by a 2.0 litre, 4-cylinder, sixteen valve engine with single-point or multi-point fuel injection. The earlyversion of this power unit is based on theproven O-series engine used previously in theMontego and earlier Austin Rover vehicles,but with an all new cylinder head and valvetrain. For the 1992 model year the T-seriesversion was announced which shared many ofthe O-series components but with significantrevisions in many areas. Both these engines

are available in normally aspirated orturbocharged versions.

825, 827 and Sterling models are poweredby a 2.5 or 2.7 litre V6 twenty four valveengine with programmed fuel injection. Bothversions of this engine are virtually identicalapart from an increase in cylinder borediameter to provide the larger capacity of the2.7 litre unit.

On all models, the engine is mountedtransversely at the front of the car and drivesthe front wheels through a five-speed manual,or four speed automatic transmission.

Suspension is independent at the front bydouble wishbones and coil springs, and at therear by transverse links and coil springs.Power-assisted steering is standard on allmodels.

A comprehensive range of electrical andinterior features are offered as standardequipment, including electric front windows,central locking and stereo radio cassetteplayer. Anti-lock braking, air conditioning,headlight wash, electric rear windows, driverand passenger airbags and many otherfeatures and accessories are also available asoptional or standard equipment according tomodel.

AcknowledgementsThanks are due to Champion Spark Plug,

who supplied the illustrations showing sparkplug conditions. Thanks are also due toSykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided someof the workshop tools, and to all those peopleat Sparkford who helped in the production ofthis manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy ofinformation given in this manual, butvehicle manufacturers make alterationsand design changes during the productionrun of a particular vehicle of which they donot inform us. No liability can be acceptedby the authors or publishers for loss,damage or injury caused by any errors in,or omissions from, the information given.

Project vehiclesThe main project vehicle used in the

preparation of this manual, and appearing inmany of the photographic sequences was a1986 Rover 820 Se Saloon. Additional workwas carried out and photographed on a 1988Rover 820 Si Fastback and a 1992 RoverSterling.

0•4 Introduction

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Introduction to the Rover 800 Series

Rover 820i Saloon Rover 800 Coupe

Page 6: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Safety First! 0•5

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Working on your car can be dangerous.This page shows just some of the potentialrisks and hazards, with the aim of creating asafety-conscious attitude.

General hazardsScalding• Don’t remove the radiator or expansiontank cap while the engine is hot.• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid orpower steering fluid may also be dangerouslyhot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning• Beware of burns from the exhaust systemand from any part of the engine. Brake discsand drums can also be extremely hotimmediately after use.

Crushing• When working under or neara raised vehicle,alwayssupplement thejack with axlestands, or usedrive-onramps.Neverventureunder a car whichis only supported by a jack.• Take care if loosening or tightening high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.Initial loosening and final tightening shouldbe done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour isexplosive. • Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights(including pilot lights) anywhere near avehicle being worked on. Also beware ofcreating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’twork on the fuel system with the vehicle overan inspection pit.• Another cause of fire is an electricaloverload or short-circuit. Take care whenrepairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a typesuitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock • Ignition HTvoltage can bedangerous,especially topeople with heartproblems or apacemaker. Don’twork on or near theignition system withthe engine running orthe ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Makesure that any mains-operated equipment iscorrectly earthed. Mains power points shouldbe protected by a residual current device(RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes arepoisonous; they oftencontain carbonmonoxide, which israpidly fatal if inhaled.Never run theengine in aconfined spacesuch as a garagewith the doors shut.• Fuel vapour is alsopoisonous, as are the vapours from somecleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances• Avoid skin contact with battery acid andwith any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especiallyantifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Dieselfuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such asubstance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,seek medical advice.• Prolonged contact with used engine oil cancause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use abarrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags inyour pocket.• Air conditioning refrigerant forms apoisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame(including a cigarette). It can also cause skinburns on contact.

Asbestos• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaledor swallowed. Asbestos may be found ingaskets and in brake and clutch linings.When dealing with such components it issafest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazardsHydrofluoric acid• This extremely corrosive acid is formedwhen certain types of synthetic rubber, foundin some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, areexposed to temperatures above 4000C. Therubber changes into a charred or stickysubstance containing the acid. Once formed,the acid remains dangerous for years. If itgets onto the skin, it may be necessary toamputate the limb concerned.• When dealing with a vehicle which hassuffered a fire, or with components salvagedfrom such a vehicle, wear protective glovesand discard them after use.

The battery• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, whichattacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take carewhen topping-up or carrying the battery.• The hydrogen gas given off by the batteryis highly explosive. Never cause a spark orallow a naked light nearby. Be careful whenconnecting and disconnecting batterychargers or jump leads.

Air bags• Air bags can cause injury if they go offaccidentally. Take care when removing thesteering wheel and/or facia. Special storageinstructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at veryhigh pressure. Take care when working onthe fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands,face or any other part of the bodyto injector spray; the fuel can

penetrate the skin with potentially fatalresults.

Remember...DO• Do use eye protection when using powertools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream toprotect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodicallythat all is well when working alone on thevehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair wellout of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, beforeworking on the vehicle – especially theelectrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jackingequipment has a safe working load ratingadequate for the job.

A few tipsDON’T• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy componentwhich may be beyond your capability – getassistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or takeunverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slipand cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying aroundwhere someone can trip over them. Mopup oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in ornear a vehicle being worked on.

Page 7: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

0•6 General dimensions and weights

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

DimensionsOverall length:

Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4694.0 mm1992 model year onwards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4882.0 mm

Overall width - including mirrors:Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1946.0 mm1992 model year onwards:

Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1965.0 mmCoupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1900.0 mm

Overall height (unladen):Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1398.0 mm1992 model year onwards:

Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1363.0 mmCoupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400.0 mm

Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2760.0 mmFront track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1490.0 mmRear track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1450.0 mmGround clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145.0 mm

WeightsKerb weight*:

820 Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1305 to 1405 kg820 Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1335 to 1435 kg820 Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1420 kg825 and Sterling Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1360 to 1400 kg827 and Sterling Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400 to 1470 kg827 and Sterling Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1410 to 1510 kg827 Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1450 kg

Maximum roof rack load:Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 kgCoupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 kg

Maximum towing weight:820 models with manual transmission:

Braked trailer (all models except Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1550 kgBraked trailer (Turbo models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1025 kgUnbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg

820 models with automatic transmission:Braked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1025 kgUnbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg

825, 827 and Sterling models:Braked trailer** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1550 kgUnbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg

Maximum towing hitch downward load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 kg*Depending on model and specification - refer to Rover dealer for exact recommendations.**On automatic transmission models, an auxiliary fluid cooler must be fitted if the towing weight is to exceed 1000 kg.

Page 8: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Roadside Repairs 0•7

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

JackingThe jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit

should only be used for changing theroadwheels - see “Wheel changing” later inthis Section. When carrying out any other kindof work, raise the vehicle using a hydraulic (or“trolley”) jack, and always supplement thejack with axle stands positioned under thevehicle jacking points (see illustration).

When using a hydraulic jack or axle stands,always position the jack head or axle stand

head under one of the relevant jacking points.To raise the front of the vehicle, position the

jack head under the front towing eye which iswelded to the longitudinal support memberrunning under the engine. Do not position thejack under the longitudinal member itself, orunder the sump or any of the steering orsuspension components.

To raise the rear of the vehicle, position thejack head under the rear towing eye which iswelded to the reinforcement panel under thespare wheel carrier.

If the side of the vehicle is to be raised,position the jack head under the reinforcedareas at the front or rear of the side sills.

The jack supplied with the vehicle alsolocates in the reinforced areas of the side sills.Ensure that the jack head is correctly engagedbefore attempting to raise the vehicle.

Never work under, around or near a raisedvehicle unless it is adequately supported in atleast two places.

Jacking points and axle stand locations

1 Front towing eye - used for raising the front of the car2 Reinforced sill area - used for raising the side of the car, or

supporting on axle stands3 Front chassis member - used for supporting the car on axle

stands4 Rear chassis member - used for supporting the car on axle stands

5 Reinforced sill area - used for raising the side of the car, orsupporting on axle stands

6 Rear towing eye - used for raising the rear of the car7 Square tubular chassis sections - Not suitable for jacking or

supporting8 Suspension components - Not suitable for jacking or supporting

Page 9: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

0•8 Roadside Repairs

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

TowingTowing eyes are fitted to the front and rear

of the vehicle for attachment of a tow rope.The front towing eye is situated under thecentre of the front bumper and the rear towingeye is located under the centre of the rearbumper behind a detachable trim plate.

Always turn the ignition key to position II toensure that the steering is unlocked and thatthe various switches (indicators and lights) arefunctional. It should also be noted that thebrake servo and power-assisted steering willnot be operating with the engine switched offand therefore an allowance will need to bemade for reduced braking efficiency andincreased steering effort.

Before being towed, release the handbrakeand place the gear lever in neutral. Do not towat a speed greater than 30 mph. On noaccount may the car be towed with the frontwheels on the ground if the transmission isfaulty, if the transmission oil or fluid is low or ifthe towing distance is greater than 30 miles.

Wheel changingTo change a roadwheel, first remove the

spare wheel and jack which are located underthe luggage compartment floor (seeillustration). Firmly apply the handbrake andengage first gear on manual transmissionmodels or PARK on automatic transmissionmodels. Place chocks at the front and rear ofthe wheel diagonally opposite the one to bechanged.

Remove the wheel trim and slacken thewheel nuts with the tools provided in the toolkit. Position the jack head in the reinforcedjacking point, at the base of the sill nearest tothe wheel to be changed. Raise the jack to justtake the weight of the car. If the tyre is flat,position the base of the jack so that it is flat onthe ground. If the tyre is not flat, position thejack so that the base elbow is resting on theground and the base is just clear (seeillustration). Raise the vehicle until the wheelis just clear of the ground, then remove thewheel nuts and the wheel. Fit the spare wheeland screw on the wheel nuts. Lower the jackuntil the tyre is just touching the ground, andtighten the wheel nuts moderately tight. Nowlower the jack fully and tighten the wheel nutssecurely in a diagonal sequence. Refit thewheel trim, then remove the jack and stow ittogether with the wheel and tools in theluggage compartment. Remember to checkthe tightness of the wheel nuts using a torquewrench at the earliest opportunity.

Spare wheel and tool locations

1 Tool kit2 Floor panel

3 Spare wheel clamp4 Spare wheel

Using the vehicle tool kit jack

1 Jack base positioned flat on the ground (deflated tyre)2 Jack positioned with base elbow on the ground, and base just clear (inflated tyre)

Page 10: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Roadside Repairs 0•9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

When jump-starting a car using abooster battery, observe the followingprecautions:

4 Before connecting the boosterbattery, make sure that the ignition isswitched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment(lights, heater, wipers, etc) isswitched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery isthe same voltage as the dischargedone in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-startedfrom the battery in another vehicle,the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCHeach other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is inneutral (or PARK, in the case ofautomatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you outof trouble, but you must correctwhatever made the battery goflat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

1 The battery has been drained byrepeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

2 The charging system is not workingproperly (alternator drivebelt slack

or broken, alternator wiring fault oralternator itself faulty).

3 The battery itself is at fault(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead tothe positive (+) terminal of the flatbattery

Connect the other end of the red lead tothe positive (+) terminal of the boosterbattery.

Connect one end of the black jump leadto the negative (-) terminal of thebooster battery

Connect the other end of the blackjump lead to a bolt or bracket on theengine block, well away from thebattery, on the vehicle to be started.

1 2 3

4

Make sure that the jump leads will notcome into contact with the fan, drive-belts or other moving parts of theengine.

5

Start the engine using the boosterbattery, then with the engine running atidle speed, disconnect the jump leads inthe reverse order of connection.

6

Jump startingJump starting

Page 11: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

0•10 Roadside Repairs

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, orobvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needsinvestigating. It can sometimes be difficult todecide where the leak is coming from,especially if the engine bay is very dirtyalready. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blownrearwards by the passage of air under the car,giving a false impression of where theproblem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oilsand fluids are poisonous. Washthem off skin, and change out ofcontaminated clothing, withoutdelay.

Identifying leaksThe smell of a fluid leakingfrom the car may provide aclue to what’s leaking. Somefluids are distinctively

coloured. It may help to clean the carcarefully and to park it over some cleanpaper overnight as an aid to locating thesource of the leak.Remember that some leaks may onlyoccur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystallinedeposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at theinboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almostcertainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipeconnectors on the steering rack.

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precautionThe radio/cassette unit fitted as standard

equipment by Rover is equipped with a built-in security code, to deter thieves. If the powersource to the unit is cut, the anti-theft systemwill activate. Even if the power source isimmediately reconnected, the radio/cassetteunit will not function until the correct security

code has been entered. Therefore, if you donot know the correct security code for the radio/cassette unit do notdisconnect either of the battery terminals, orremove the radio/cassette unit from thevehicle.

To enter the correct security code, follow

the instructions provided with theradio/cassette player handbook.

If an incorrect code is entered, the unit willbecome locked, and cannot be operated.

If this happens, or if the security code is lostor forgotten, seek the advice of your Roverdealer.

Page 12: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Conversion Factors 0•11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Length (distance)Inches (in) x 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) x 0.0394 = Inches (in)Feet (ft) x 0.305 = Metres (m) x 3.281 = Feet (ft)Miles x 1.609 = Kilometres (km) x 0.621 = Miles

Volume (capacity)Cubic inches (cu in; in3) x 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) x 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in3)Imperial pints (Imp pt) x 0.568 = Litres (l) x 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt)Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.137 = Litres (l) x 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)US quarts (US qt) x 0.946 = Litres (l) x 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 4.546 = Litres (l) x 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) x 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)US gallons (US gal) x 3.785 = Litres (l) x 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)Ounces (oz) x 28.35 = Grams (g) x 0.035 = Ounces (oz)Pounds (lb) x 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) x 2.205 = Pounds (lb)

ForceOunces-force (ozf; oz) x 0.278 = Newtons (N) x 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz)Pounds-force (lbf; lb) x 4.448 = Newtons (N) x 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf; lb)Newtons (N) x 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) x 9.81 = Newtons (N)

PressurePounds-force per square inch x 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square x 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)Pounds-force per square inch x 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)Pounds-force per square inch x 0.069 = Bars x 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)Pounds-force per square inch x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square x 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)

centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2)Millibar (mbar) x 100 = Pascals (Pa) x 0.01 = Millibar (mbar)Millibar (mbar) x 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)

(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)Millibar (mbar) x 0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 1.333 = Millibar (mbar)Millibar (mbar) x 0.401 = Inches of water (inH2O) x 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 0.535 = Inches of water (inH2O) x 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)Inches of water (inH2O) x 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch x 27.68 = Inches of water (inH2O)

(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)

Torque (moment of force)Pounds-force inches x 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches(lbf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (lbf in; lb in)Pounds-force inches x 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) x 8.85 = Pounds-force inches(lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in)Pounds-force inches x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 12 = Pounds-force inches(lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in)Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres x 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)

(kgf m; kg m)Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) x 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)Newton metres (Nm) x 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres x 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)

(kgf m; kg m)

PowerHorsepower (hp) x 745.7 = Watts (W) x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) x 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*Miles per gallon (mpg) x 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) x 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)

TemperatureDegrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56

* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km), where mpg x l/100 km = 282

Page 13: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1

EngineDirection of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)Oil filter:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion B101V6 engines:

paper type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X119cannister type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion E102

Cooling systemCoolant protection at 33% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -19ºC (-2ºF)Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -36ºC (-33ºF)

Coolant protection at 50% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -36ºC (-33ºF)Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -48ºC (-54ºF)

Fuel systemAir filter element:

“M” series 4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W114“T” series 4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not availableV6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W601

Fuel filter:4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L208V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L207

Chapter 1Routine maintenance and servicing

Accelerator cable and linkage check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Braking system hydraulic fluid seal check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . 40Clutch operation and hydraulic hose condition check . . . . . . . . . . . 25Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Door, boot, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . 27Driveshaft rubber gaiter and CV joint check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Emissions control equipment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41Engine base idle speed and CO content check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Manual transmission oil renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Roadwheel nut tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Routine maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Steering, suspension and roadwheel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Timing belt condition and tension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . 8Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer system and wiper

blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

1•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

Page 14: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Ignition systemFiring order:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-4-2-5-3-6 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end on rear bank)

Spark plugs:Type: *

4-cylinder normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC4-cylinder turbocharged engines up to 1992 model year . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC4-cylinder turbocharged engines 1992 model year onwards . . . . . Champion RC9YCCV6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC4

Electrode gap: *4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mmV6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Spark plug (HT) leads:Type:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05 boxed setV6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion boxed set not available

Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations

Braking systemFront brake pad thickness (including backing but excluding shims):

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.4 mmMinimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2 mm

Rear brake pad thickness (including backing):New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.5 mmMinimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.2 mm

TyresTyre pressures (cold): Front Rear

195/70 VR 14 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 psi) 1.8 bar (26 psi)195/65 VR 15 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (28 psi) 2.0 bar (28 psi)205/55 VR or ZR 16 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)205/60 VR 15 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (28 psi) 2.0 bar (28 psi)215/45 ZR 17 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 bar (34 psi) 1.9 bar (28 psi)115/70 R 15 (space saver spare tyre) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 bar (60 psi) 4.1 bar (60 psi)

Note: For sustained high speeds above 100 mph (160 km/h), increased pressures are necessary. Consult the driver’s handbook supplied with the vehicle.

Wiper bladesWindscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-5103Tailgate/rear window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-5103

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftPower steering pump bolts:

4-cylinder engines - rear-mounted pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 184-cylinder engines - front-mounted pump:

Early version (4 mounting bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Later version (5 mounting bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

V6 engines:Mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 29Adjusting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Power steering pump drivebelt tensioner wheel retaining nut (4-cylinder engines - rear mounted pump) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Alternator pivot and mounting bolts (4-cylinder engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Alternator adjustment bracket bolts (4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Alternator side pivot bolt (V6 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Alternator lower mounting nut (V6 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 17Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Manual transmission filler/level and drain plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Automatic transmission drain plugs:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Spark plugs:4-cylinder engines up to 1991 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 134-cylinder engines from 1991 onward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

1•2 Specifications

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Page 15: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Lubricants and fluidsComponent or system Lubricant type/specification1 Engine Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better,

viscosity range 5W/50 to 10W/40

2 Cooling system Soft water, and antifreeze (ethylene glycol-based, suitablefor use in mixed-metal cooling systems)

3 Manual transmission Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better,viscosity 10W/40

4 Automatic transmission Dexron IID type ATF

5 Power steering fluid reservoir Dexron IID type ATF

6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 116 DOT 4

General greasing Multipurpose lithium based grease

CapacitiesEngine oil (including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litresCooling system:

4-cylinder engines:“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 litres“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres

V6 engines:2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 litres2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.6 litres

Manual transmission (drain and refill) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 litresAutomatic transmission (drain and refill):

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litresV6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 litres

Power steering reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 litresFuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 litres

Lubricants, fluids and capacities 1•3

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Page 16: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Rover 800 Series maintenance schedule

1•4 Maintenance and servicing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

The manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule forthese vehicles is as described below - note that the schedule startsfrom the vehicle’s date of registration. These are the minimummaintenance intervals recommended by the factory for vehiclesdriven daily, but subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to keepyour car in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform someof these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenanceenhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your car,we encourage you to do so. If your usage is not “normal”, shorterintervals are also recommended - the most important examples of

these are noted in the schedule. These shorter intervals applyparticularly if you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or trailer, sitwith the engine idling or drive at low speeds for extended periods (ie,in heavy traffic), or drive for short distances (less than four miles) inbelow-freezing temperatures.

Although the manufacturer’s intervals have been extended to onemain service at 12 000 mile (12 monthly) intervals for 1994 modelsonward, the earlier schedule which also includes a lubrication serviceat 6000 mile (6 monthly) intervals, is the schedule shown in thisChapter.

Weekly checksmm Check the engine oil level, and top-up if necessary

(Section 3).mm Check the brake fluid level, and top-up if necessary

(Section 3). If repeated topping-up is required, check thesystem for leaks or damage at the earliest possibleopportunity (Section 24).

mm Check the windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer fluidlevel, and top-up if necessary (Section 3).

mm Check the tyre pressures, including the spare (Section 4).mm Visually check the tyres for excessive tread wear, or

damage (Section 4).mm Check the operation of all (exterior and interior) lights and

the horn, wipers and windscreen/tailgate washer system(Sections 6 and 13).

mm Renew any blown bulbs (Chapter 12), and clean thelenses of all exterior lights.

mm Check the coolant level, and top-up if necessary (Sec-tion 3).

mm Check the battery electrolyte level, where applicable(Section 3).

mm Check the power steering fluid level, and top-up ifnecessary (Section 5).

mm Check the aim of the windscreen/tailgate/headlightwasher jets, correcting them if required (Section 6).

mm Check the condition of the wiper blades, renewing them ifworn or no longer effective (Section 6).

mm Visually check all reservoirs, hoses and pipes for leakage(Section 8).

mm Check the operation of the air conditioning system (whereapplicable) (Section 18).

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months, whichever occurs firstmm Check the cooling system (Section 9).mm Check the operation of the accelerator cable and linkage

(Section 10).mm Renew the spark plugs (models without emission control

equipment) (Section 11).mm Renew the air cleaner filter element (models without

emission control equipment) (Section 12).mm Check the electrical system (Section 13).mm Check the battery (Section 14).mm Check the seat belts (Section 15).mm Check the auxiliary drivebelt(s) (Section 16).mm Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring

(Section 17).mm Check the condition of all air conditioning system

components (where applicable) (Section 18).mm Check the engine idle speed and mixture (where

applicable) (Section 19).mm Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 20).mm Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Sec-

tion 21).mm Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Sec-

tion 22).mm Check the exhaust system (Section 23).mm Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Sec-

tion 24).mm Check the clutch operation and hydraulic hose condition

(Section 25).mm Check the brake system (Section 26).mm Check the doors and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges

and locks (Section 27).mm Check the condition of the bodywork and all exterior trim

(Section 28).mm Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 29).mm Road test (Section 30).mm Check the level of the automatic transmission fluid after

road test (Section 31).

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs firstmm Change the engine oil and filter (Section 7).mm Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition

(Section 8).

Page 17: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Maintenance and servicing 1•5

1 Vehicle identification plate2 Screen washer reservoir filler3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler5 Front shock absorber top

mounting6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler7 Brake master cylinder8 Vacuum servo unit9 Fuel filter10 Power steering pump drivebelt

(early models)11 Distributor cap12 Ignition coil13 Brake pressure reducing valve14 Fuse and relay box15 Battery negative terminal16 Battery positive terminal17 Ignition/fuel ECU18 Air cleaner assembly19 Radiator cooling fan20 Air cleaner intake trunking21 Engine oil dipstick22 Alternator23 Thermostat housing24 Engine oil filler cap

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years, whichever occurs firstmm Renew the spark plugs (models with emission control

equipment) (Section 11).mm Renew the air cleaner filter element (models with emission

control equipment) (Section 12).mm Check the condition and tension of the timing belt

(Section 32).mm Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (Section 33).mm Renew the fuel filter (Section 34).mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 35).mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 36).mm Renew the manual transmission oil (Section 37).mm Renew the coolant (Section 38).

Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km)mm Renew the timing belt (Section 39).

Every 60 000 miles (100 000 km) or 5 years, whichever occurs firstmm Renew the braking system rubber seals (recommendation

only) (Section 40).mm Check the operation of the emission control equipment

(Section 41).

Engine compartment component locations - 4-cylinder engine models with single-point fuel injection

Page 18: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

1•6 Maintenance and servicing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Vehicle identification plate2 Screen washer reservoir filler3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler5 Front shock absorber top

mounting6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler7 Brake master cylinder8 Vacuum servo unit9 Fuel filter10 Ignition system ECU11 Ignition coil12 Brake pressure reducing valve13 Fuse and relay box14 Battery negative terminal15 Battery positive terminal16 Air cleaner assembly17 Radiator cooling fan18 Air cleaner intake trunking19 Engine oil dipstick20 Airflow meter21 Throttle housing22 Plenum chamber23 Engine oil filler cap24 Alternator25 Power steering pump (later

models)

Engine compartment component locations - 4-cylinder engine models with multi-point fuel injection

1 Engine oil dipstick2 Screen washer reservoir filler3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler5 Alternator6 Power steering pump7 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler8 Fuel filter9 Control box10 Ignition coil11 Throttle body12 ABS modulator13 Fuse and relay box14 Battery negative terminal15 Battery positive terminal16 Air cleaner assembly17 Engine oil filler cap

Engine compartment component locations - V6 engine models

Page 19: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Maintenance and servicing 1•7

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Engine undertray2 Front towing eye3 Longitudinal support member4 Clutch slave cylinder5 Reversing light switch6 Front tie-bar7 Transmission drain plug8 Inner constant velocity joint9 Transmission filler plug10 Front anti-roll bar11 Gearchange rod12 Steady rod13 Fuel pipes14 Exhaust section flange joint15 Power steering gear16 Steering track rod17 Front lower suspension arm18 Brake caliper19 Oil filter20 Driveshaft damper21 Engine oil drain plug

Underside view at front end showing component locations on 4-cylinder engine models

1 Exhaust intermediate section2 Fuel tank3 Exhaust rear heat shield4 Handbrake cable5 Fuel pipes6 Trailing link7 Fuel filler neck connection8 Transverse link9 Fuel tank retaining straps10 Rear anti-roll bar11 Rear silencer12 Brake caliper

Underside view at rear end

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3 Fluid level checks 1General1 Fluids are an essential part of thelubrication, cooling, braking and othersystems. Because these fluids graduallybecome depleted and/or contaminated duringnormal operation of the vehicle, they must beperiodically replenished. See “Lubricants,fluids and capacities” at the beginning of thisChapter before adding fluid to any of thefollowing components. Note: The vehiclemust be on level ground before fluid levels canbe checked.

Engine oil2 The engine oil level is checked with adipstick located at the front of the engine inthe centre, or on the right-hand side (seeillustration). The dipstick extends through ametal tube, from which it protrudes down intothe sump at the bottom of the engine.3 The oil level should be checked before thevehicle is driven, or about 5 minutes after theengine has been switched off. If the level ischecked immediately after driving the vehicle,some of the oil will remain in the engine uppercomponents, producing an inaccuratereading.4 Pull the dipstick from the tube, and wipe allthe oil from the end with a clean rag or papertowel; note the dipstick’s maximum andminimum levels, indicated by holes on thedipstick (see illustration). Insert the cleandipstick all the way back into its metal tube,

and pull it out again. Observe the oil on theend of the dipstick; its level should bebetween these two holes.5 Do not allow the level to drop below theminimum level notch, or oil starvation maycause engine damage. Conversely, overfilling

the engine (adding oil above the maximumlevel notch) may cause oil-fouled spark plugs,oil leaks or oil seal failures.6 The oil filler cap is screwed into the right-hand front end of the valve cover; unscrew itto add oil (see illustrations). When topping-

Maintenance procedures

1•8 Maintenance and servicing

3.6b . . . and on V6 engines3.6a Topping up the engine oil on 4-cylinder engines . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the homemechanic maintain the Rover 800 Seriesmodels for peak performance, economy,safety and long life.

Contained in this Chapter is a mastermaintenance schedule, followed by Sectionsdealing specifically with each item on theschedule. Visual checks, adjustments,component replacement and other helpfulitems are included. Refer to theaccompanying illustrations of the enginecompartment and the underside of the vehiclefor the location of various components.

Servicing your Rover in accordance withthe mileage/time maintenance schedule andthe following Sections will provide it with a

planned maintenance programme, whichshould result in a long and reliable service life.This is a comprehensive plan, so maintainingsome items but not others at the specifiedservice intervals will not produce the sameresults.

As you service your car, you will discoverthat many of the procedures can - and should -be grouped together, because of the nature ofthe particular procedure you’re performing, orbecause of the close proximity to one anotherof two otherwise-unrelated components.

For example, if the vehicle is raised for anyreason, you should inspect the exhaust,suspension, steering and fuel systems whileyou’re under the vehicle. When you’rechecking the tyres, it makes good sense tocheck the brakes and wheel bearings,especially if the roadwheels have alreadybeen removed.

Finally, let’s suppose you have to borrow or

hire a torque wrench. Even if you only need totighten the spark plugs, you might as wellcheck the torque of as many critical fastenersas time allows.

2 Routine maintenance

The first step of this maintenanceprogramme is to prepare yourself before theactual work begins. Read through all theSections which are relevant to the proceduresyou’re planning to carry out, then make a listof, and gather together, all the parts and toolsyou will need to do the job. If it looks as if youmight run into problems during a particularsegment of some procedure, seek advicefrom your local parts man or dealer servicedepartment.

Weekly checks

3.4 Note the dipstick’s maximum andminimum levels, indicated by holes on the

dipstick

3.2 Engine oil dipstick location (arrowed)on V6 engines

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up, use only the correct grade and type of oil,as given in the “Lubricants, fluids andcapacities” Section of this Chapter; use afunnel if necessary to prevent spills. Afteradding the oil, refit the filler cap hand-tight.Start the engine, and allow it to idle while theoil is redistributed around the engine - whileyou are waiting, look carefully for any oil leaks,particularly around the oil filter or drain plug.Stop the engine; check the oil level again,after the oil has had enough time to drain fromthe upper block and cylinder head galleries.7 Checking the oil level is an importantpreventive maintenance step. A continually-dropping oil level indicates oil leakage throughdamaged seals and from loose connections,or oil consumption past worn piston rings orvalve guides. If the oil looks milky in colour, orhas water droplets in it, the cylinder headgasket may be blown - the engine’scompression pressure should be checkedimmediately (see Chapter 2). The condition ofthe oil should also be checked. Each time youcheck the oil level, slide your thumb and indexfinger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil.If you see small dirt or metal particles clingingto the dipstick, the oil should be changed.

CoolantWarning: DO NOT attempt toremove the expansion tank fillercap, or to disturb any part of thecooling system, while it or the

engine is hot, as there is a very great riskof scalding.8 All vehicles covered by this manual areequipped with a sealed, pressurised coolingsystem. A translucent plastic expansion tank,located on the right-hand side of the enginecompartment, is connected by a hose to thethermostat housing or radiator top hose. Asthe coolant heats up during engine operation,surplus coolant passes through theconnecting hose into the expansion tank. Asthe engine cools, the coolant is automaticallydrawn back into the cooling system’s maincomponents, to maintain the correct level.9 While the coolant level must be checkedregularly, remember that it will vary with thetemperature of the engine. When the engine iscold, the level should be up to the pipe outleton the side of the tank, but once the enginehas warmed up, the level may rise to abovethis level.10 For an accurate check of the coolant level,the engine must be cold and the level must beup to the pipe outlet. If it is below this level, thecoolant must be topped-up as follows.11 First prepare a sufficient quantity ofcoolant mixture, using clean, soft water andantifreeze of the recommended type, in thespecified mixture ratio. If only a small amountof coolant is required to bring the system upto the proper level, plain water can be used,but repeatedly doing this will dilute theantifreeze/water solution in the system,reducing the protection it should provideagainst freezing and corrosion. To maintain

the specified antifreeze/water ratio, it isessential to top-up the coolant level with thecorrect mixture, as described here. Use onlyethylene/glycol type antifreeze, and do notuse supplementary inhibitors or additives.

Warning: Never remove theexpansion tank filler cap whenthe engine is running, or hasjust been switched off, as the

cooling system will be hot, and theconsequent escaping steam and scaldingcoolant could cause serious injury.12 If topping-up is necessary, wait until thesystem has cooled completely (or at least 10minutes after switching off the engine, if lack oftime means it is absolutely necessary to top-upwhile the engine may still be warm). Wrap athick cloth around the expansion tank filler cap,and unscrew it one full turn. If any hissing isheard as steam escapes, wait until the hissingceases, indicating that pressure is released,then slowly unscrew the filler cap until it can beremoved. If more hissing sounds are heard,wait until they have stopped before unscrewingthe filler cap completely. At all times, keep yourface, hands and other exposed skin well awayfrom the filler opening.13 When the filler cap has been removed,add coolant to bring the level up to the outletpipe level (see illustration). Refit the cap,tightening it securely.14 With this type of cooling system, theaddition of coolant should only be necessaryat very infrequent intervals. If topping-up isregularly required, or if the coolant level dropswithin a short time after replenishment, theremay be a leak in the system.15 Inspect the radiator, hoses, expansiontank filler cap, radiator drain plug and waterpump. If no leak is evident, have the filler capand the entire system pressure-tested by yourdealer or garage; this will usually show up asmall leak not otherwise visible.

Windscreen/tailgate andheadlight washer fluid16 Fluid for the windscreen/tailgate/headlightwasher system is stored in a plastic reservoir,the filler neck of which is located at the right-hand front corner of the engine compartment.17 To check the fluid level, release the capand observe the level in the reservoir bylooking down the filler neck. In milder

climates, plain water can be used to top-upthe reservoir, but the reservoir should be keptno more than two-thirds full, to allow forexpansion should the water freeze. In colderclimates, the use of a specially-formulatedwindscreen washer fluid, available at yourdealer or any car accessory shop, will helplower the freezing point of the fluid. Do notuse regular (engine) antifreeze - it will damagethe vehicle’s paintwork.

Battery electrolyte18 On models not equipped with a sealedbattery (see Section 9), check the electrolytelevel of all six battery cells. The level must beapproximately 10 mm above the plates; thismay be shown by maximum and minimumlevel lines marked on the battery’s casing. Ifthe level is low, use a coin to release thefiller/vent cap, and add distilled water. Installand retighten the cap. Caution: Overfilling the cells may causeelectrolyte to spill over during periods ofheavy charging, causing corrosion ordamage. Refer to the warning at thebeginning of Section 9.

Brake fluid19 The brake fluid reservoir is located on thetop of the brake master cylinder, attached tothe front of the vacuum servo unit. The “MAX”and “MIN” marks are indicated on the side ofthe translucent reservoir, and the fluid levelshould be maintained between these marks atall times.20 The brake fluid inside the reservoir isreadily visible. With the vehicle on levelground, the level should be on or just belowthe “MAX” mark.21 Progressive wear of the brake pad liningscauses the level of the brake fluid to graduallyfall; however, when the brake pads arerenewed, the original level of the fluid isrestored. It is not therefore necessary to top-up the level to compensate for this minimaldrop, but the level must never be allowed tofall below the minimum mark.22 If topping-up is necessary, first wipe thearea around the filler cap with a clean rag beforeremoving the cap - do not invert the cap afterremoval. When adding fluid, pour it carefullyinto the reservoir, to avoid spilling it onsurrounding painted surfaces (see illustration).

Weekly Checks 1•9

3.22 Topping up the brake master cylinderreservoir

3.13 Topping up the cooling system

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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Be sure to use only the specified hydraulic fluid(see “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at thestart of this Chapter) since mixing differenttypes of fluid can cause damage to the system.

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluidcan harm your eyes and damagepainted surfaces, so useextreme caution when handling

and pouring it. Wash off spills immediatelywith plenty of water. Do not use fluid thathas been standing open for some time, asit absorbs moisture from the air. Excessmoisture can cause corrosion and adangerous loss of braking effectiveness.23 When adding fluid, it is a good idea toinspect the reservoir for contamination. Thesystem should be drained and refilled ifdeposits, dirt particles or contamination areseen in the fluid.24 After filling the reservoir to the correctlevel, make sure that the cap is refitted

securely, to avoid leaks and the entry offoreign matter.25 If the reservoir requires repeatedreplenishing to maintain the correct level, thisis an indication of an hydraulic leaksomewhere in the system, which should beinvestigated immediately.

Power steering fluid26 See Section 5 of this Chapter.

4 Tyre and tyre pressurechecks 1

1 Periodic inspection of the tyres may spareyou from the inconvenience of being strandedwith a flat tyre. It can also provide you withvital information regarding possible problemsin the steering and suspension systemsbefore major damage occurs.2 The current tyres are equipped with treadwear indicator (TWI) bands, which will appearwhen the tread depth reaches approximately1.6 mm. Most tyres have a mark around thetyre at regular intervals to indicate the locationof the tread wear indicators, the mark beingTWI, an arrow, or the tyre manufacturer’ssymbol. Tread wear can also be monitoredwith a simple inexpensive device known as atread depth indicator gauge (see illustration).3 Ensure that tyre pressures are checkedregularly and maintained correctly (see theSpecifications at the beginning of this Chapterfor pressures). Checking should be carried outwith the tyres cold, and not immediately after

the vehicle has been in use. If the pressuresare checked with the tyres hot, an apparently-high reading will be obtained, owing to heatexpansion. Under no circumstances should anattempt be made to reduce the pressures tothe quoted cold reading in this instance, oreffective under-inflation will result. Mostgarage forecourts have a pressure line whichcombines a gauge to check and adjust thetyre pressures, but they may vary in accuracy,due to general misuse and abuse. It thereforepays to carry a good-quality tyre pressuregauge in the vehicle, to make the checksrequired and ensure pressure accuracy.4 Note any abnormal tread wear (seeillustration). Tread pattern irregularities suchas feathering, flat spots, and more wear onone side than the other, are indications offront wheel alignment and/or balanceproblems. If any of these conditions arenoted, they should be rectified as soon aspossible.5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of thetyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing,and the tread will not sit correctly on the roadsurface. This will cause a consequent loss ofadhesion and excessive wear, as well as thedanger of sudden tyre failure due to heatbuild-up.6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of thecentre part of the tyre tread, coupled withreduced adhesion, harder ride, and thedanger of damage occurring in the tyrecasing.7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in theform of cuts or bulges, especially in thesidewalls. Remove any nails or stones

1•10 Weekly Checks

4.2 Checking the tyre tread depth with adepth gauge

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)Under-inflation will cause overheating of thetyre, because the tyre will flex too much, andthe tread will not sit correctly on the roadsurface. This will cause a loss of grip andexcessive wear, not to mention the danger ofsudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.Check and adjust pressuresIncorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)Repair or renew suspension partsHard corneringReduce speed!

Centre Wear

OverinflationOver-inflation will cause rapid wear of thecentre part of the tyre tread, coupled withreduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger ofshock damage occurring in the tyre casing.Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’styres to the higher pressures specified formaximum load or sustained high speed, don’tforget to reduce the pressures to normalafterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result ofwheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers andgarages can check and adjust the wheelalignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.Incorrect camber or castorRepair or renew suspension partsMalfunctioning suspensionRepair or renew suspension partsUnbalanced wheelBalance tyresIncorrect toe settingAdjust front wheel alignmentNote: The feathered edge of the tread whichtypifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

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embedded in the tread, before they penetratethe tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nailreveals that the tyre has been punctured, refitthe nail, so that its point of penetration ismarked. Then immediately change the wheel,and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Donot drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in anydoubt as to the possible consequences of anydamage found, consult your local tyre dealerfor advice.8 General tyre wear is influenced to a largedegree by driving style - harsh braking andacceleration, or fast cornering, will all producemore rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyresmay result in more even wear; however, it isworth bearing in mind that if this is completelyeffective, the added expense is incurred ofreplacing simultaneously a complete set oftyres, which may prove financially restrictivefor many owners.9 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result ofwheel misalignment. The front wheels shouldalways be correctly aligned according to thesettings specified by the vehiclemanufacturer.10 Don’t forget to check the spare tyre forcondition and pressure.11 Legal restrictions apply to many aspectsof tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK thisinformation is contained in the Motor VehicleConstruction and Use Regulations. It issuggested that a copy of these regulations isobtained from your local police, if in doubt asto current legal requirements with regard totyre type and condition, minimum tread depth,etc.

5 Power steering fluid levelcheck 1

1 The power steering fluid reservoir is locatedon the right-hand side of the enginecompartment next to the cooling systemexpansion tank.2 For the fluid level check on 4-cylindermodels, the power steering system must becold; on V6 models, it may be either hot orcold.

3 Use a clean rag to wipe the filler cap andthe surrounding area, to prevent foreignmatter from entering the system. Unscrewand remove the filler cap.4 Check that the fluid level is up to the “MAX”mark on the dipstick. On V6 engine models,there is a scale on both sides of the dipstick,one for hot checking and one for coldchecking.5 Top-up the level to the “MAX” mark, usingthe grade of fluid specified at the beginning ofthis Chapter (see illustration). Be careful notto introduce dirt into the system, and do notoverfill. The need for frequent topping-upindicates a leak, which should beinvestigated.6 Refit the filler cap.

6 Windscreen/tailgate andheadlight washer systemand wiper blade check

11 The windscreen and tailgate wiper andblade assembly should be inspected at thespecified intervals for damage, loosecomponents, and cracked or worn bladeelements.2 Road film can build up on the wiper bladesand affect their efficiency, so they should bewashed regularly with a mild detergent solution.3 The action of the wiping mechanism canloosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they

should be checked and tightened, asnecessary, at the same time as the wiperblades are checked.4 If the wiper blade elements are cracked,worn or warped, or no longer cleanadequately, they should be replaced with newones.5 Switch on the ignition, and the windscreenwipers, then park the wipers vertically on thewindscreen while they are still running. Lift thewiper arm and blade away from the glass.6 To remove the wiper blade, depress thecatch on the blade attachment, then withdrawthe blade assembly off the arm (seeillustration).7 The tailgate wiper blade is removed in thesame way, but it is not necessary to park it inthe centre of the glass prior to removal.8 If the metal part of the wiper blade is ingood condition, it may be possible to renewthe rubber insert separately. The insert can beobtained from a car accessory shop and,according to type, it may need to be cut to thecorrect length before sliding into the clips.9 Refit the wiper blade assembly using areversal of the removal procedure, makingsure that it fully engages with the spring clip.10 Check that the washer jets direct the fluidonto the upper part of thewindscreen/tailgate, and if necessary adjustthe small sphere on the jet with a pin. Notethat the headlight washer jets are of the fixedtype and cannot be adjusted.

Weekly Checks 1•11

6.6 Remove the windscreen wiper bladeby depressing the catch on the blade, thenwithdraw the blade assembly off the arm

5.5 Topping up the power steering fluidreservoir

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first

7 Engine oil and filter change 11 Make sure that you have all the necessarytools before you begin this procedure. You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up anyspills. 2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and toprotect yourself from possible skin irritantsand other harmful contaminants in usedengine oils, it is advisable to wear gloveswhen carrying out this work.3 Access to the underside of the vehicle isgreatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted ona hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported byaxle stands.

Warning: Do not work under avehicle which is supported onlyby an hydraulic or scissor-typejack, or by bricks, blocks ofwood, etc.

4 If this is your first oil change, get under thevehicle and familiarise yourself with theposition of the engine oil drain plug location inthe sump. The engine and exhaustcomponents will be warm during the actualwork, so try to anticipate any potentialproblems while the engine and accessoriesare cool.5 The oil should preferably be changed when

Frequent oil changes are thebest preventivemaintenance the homemechanic can give the

engine, because ageing oil becomesdiluted and contaminated, which leadsto premature engine wear.

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the engine is still at normal operatingtemperature, just after a run; warm oil andsludge will flow out more easily. Park thevehicle on firm, level ground, apply thehandbrake, then select 1st or reverse gear(manual transmission) or the “P” position(automatics). Open the bonnet and removethe engine oil filler cap from the valve cover,then remove the oil level dipstick.6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support itsecurely on axle stands. Remove the frontright-hand roadwheel, then remove the plasticpanel under the wheelarch to provideadditional access to the oil filter.

Warning: To avoid personalinjury, never get beneath thevehicle when it is supported byonly by a jack. The jack provided

with your vehicle is designed solely forraising the vehicle to remove and refit theroadwheels. Always use axle stands tosupport the vehicle when it becomesnecessary to place your body underneaththe vehicle.

7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaustcomponents, place the drain pan under thedrain plug, and unscrew the plug. If possible,try to keep the plug pressed into the sumpwhile unscrewing it by hand the last couple ofturns. As the plug releases from the threads,move it away sharply, so the stream of oilissuing from the sump runs into the pan, notup your sleeve! Allow the oil to drain into thedrain pan, and check the condition of theplug’s sealing washer; renew it if worn ordamaged.8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,noting that it may be necessary to repositionthe pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle. Whenthe oil has completely drained, wipe clean thedrain plug and its threads in the sump andrefit the plug, tightening it securely.9 On all engines except the 2.5 litre V6, the oilfilter renewal procedure is relatively simple;proceed as follows. Reposition the drain panunder the oil filter then, using a filter removaltool, unscrew the oil filter from the housing; beprepared for some oil spillage (seeillustration). Check the old filter to make surethat the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to theengine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw

the filter, taking care to spill as little oil aspossible.10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean thecylinder block around the filter mounting. Ifthere are no specific instructions suppliedwith it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply alight coating of clean engine oil to the filter’ssealing ring. Screw the filter into position onthe engine until it seats, then tighten it througha further half- to three-quarters of a turn only.Tighten the filter by hand only - do not use anytools.11 On 2.5 litre V6 engines the filter is acartridge contained within the filter housing.12 Reposition the drain pan under the filterassembly and first, drain the filter byunscrewing the drain plug on the side of thehousing (see illustration). Refit the plug whenthe filter has drained. Now undo the threeretaining nuts and withdraw the baseplatefrom the filter assembly. As you do this beprepared for oil spillage and catch the filtercartridge and its components, which will fallout and probably land in the oil as thebaseplate is removed. Retrieve the filter lowerspring and the sealing ring on the baseplate.13 Clean the baseplate thoroughly and wipearound the inside of the filter housing using aclean lint-free rag.14 Locate the new sealing ring in thebaseplate, then fit the spring to the locatinglugs in the baseplate. Locate the filter in thehousing, and refit the baseplate. Screw on thethree nuts and tighten them securely.15 Remove the old oil and all tools fromunder the vehicle, refit the access panel androadwheel, then lower the vehicle to theground.16 Refill the engine with oil, using the correctgrade and type of oil, as given in the“Lubricants, fluids and capacities” Section ofthis Chapter. Pour in half the specifiedquantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes forthe oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oila small quantity at a time, until the level is up

to the lower notch on the dipstick. Addingapproximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre will raise thelevel to the dipstick’s upper notch.17 Start the engine. The oil pressure warninglight will take a few seconds to go out whilethe new filter fills with oil; do not race theengine while the light is on. Run the engine fora few minutes, while checking for leaksaround the oil filter seal and the drain plug.18 Switch off the engine, and wait a fewminutes for the oil to settle in the sump oncemore. With the new oil circulated and the filternow completely full, recheck the level on thedipstick, adding more oil as necessary.19 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, withreference to “General repair procedures” inthe Reference Section of this manual.

8 Underbonnet check for fluidleaks and hose condition 2

Caution: Renewal of air conditioning hosesmust be left to a dealer servicedepartment or air conditioning specialistwho has the equipment to depressurisethe system safely. Never remove airconditioning components or hoses untilthe system has been depressurised.

General1 High temperatures in the enginecompartment can cause the deterioration ofthe rubber and plastic hoses used for engine,accessory and emission systems operation.Periodic inspection should be made forcracks, loose clamps, material hardening andleaks.2 Carefully check the large top and bottomradiator hoses, along with the other smaller-diameter cooling system hoses and metalpipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipeswhich run from the engine to the bulkhead.Inspect each hose along its entire length,replacing any that is cracked, swollen orshows signs of deterioration. Cracks maybecome more apparent if the hose issqueezed.3 Make sure that all hose connections aretight. A leak in the cooling system will usuallyshow up as white- or rust-coloured depositson the areas adjoining the leak; if the springclamps that are used to secure the hoses inthis system appear to be slackening, theyshould be renewed to prevent the possibilityof leaks.4 Some other hoses are secured to theirfittings with clamps. Where clamps are used,check that they haven’t lost their tension,allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren’tused, make sure the hose has not expandedand/or hardened where it slips over the fitting,allowing it to leak.5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drainplugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs ofleakage of oil, transmission and/or brakehydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering

1•12 Every 6000 miles

7.12 Oil filter cartridge components on 2.5 litre V6 engines

1 Engine oil drain plug2 Oil filter housing drain plug3 Baseplate retaining nuts4 Baseplate5 Oil filter cartridge6 Spring locating lugs7 Spring8 Sealing ring

7.9 Using a filter removal tool, unscrewthe oil filter from the housing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in thesame place, close inspection of the groundunderneath it will soon show any leaks; ignorethe puddle of water which will be left if the airconditioning system is in use. As soon as aleak is detected, its source must be tracedand rectified. Where oil has been leaking forsome time, it is usually necessary to use asteam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, toclean away the accumulated dirt, so that theexact source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,especially those in the emissions system, tobe numbered or colour-coded, or to beidentified by coloured stripes moulded intothem. Various systems require hoses withdifferent wall thicknesses, collapse resistanceand temperature resistance. When renewinghoses, be sure the new ones are made of thesame material.7 Often the only effective way to check ahose is to remove it completely from thevehicle. If more than one hose is removed, besure to label the hoses and fittings to ensurecorrect installation.8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure toinclude any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, andcheck the hose where it fits over the fitting

for distortion, which could cause leakage.9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inchinside diameter) can be used as astethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Holdone end of the hose to your ear, and probearound vacuum hoses and fittings, listeningfor the “hissing” sound characteristic of avacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with thevacuum hose stethoscope, bevery careful not to come intocontact with moving engine

components such as the auxiliarydrivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hosesWarning: There are certainprecautions which must betaken when inspecting orservicing fuel system

components. Work in a well-ventilatedarea, and do not allow open flames(cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) orbare light bulbs near the work area. Mopup any spills immediately, and do not storefuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration andchafing. Check especially for cracks in areaswhere the hose bends, and also just beforefittings, such as where a hose attaches to thefuel filter.

11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified bythe word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on thehose, should be used for fuel line renewal.Never, under any circumstances, useunreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubingor water hose for fuel lines.12 Spring-type clamps are commonly usedon fuel lines. These clamps often lose theirtension over a period of time, and can be“sprung” during removal. Replace all spring-type clamps with screw clamps whenever ahose is replaced.

Metal lines13 Sections of metal piping are often usedfor fuel line between the fuel filter and theengine. Check carefully to be sure the pipinghas not been bent or crimped, and that crackshave not started in the line.14 If a section of metal fuel line must berenewed, only seamless steel piping shouldbe used, since copper and aluminium pipingdon’t have the strength necessary towithstand normal engine vibration.15 Check the metal brake lines where theyenter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulicunit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loosefittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage callsfor an immediate and thorough inspection ofthe brake system.

Every 12 000 miles 1•13

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months, whichever occurs first

9 Cooling system check 11 The engine should be cold for the coolingsystem checks, so perform the followingprocedure before driving the vehicle, or after ithas been shut off for at least three hours.2 Remove the expansion tank filler cap(Section 3), and clean it thoroughly inside andout with a rag. Clean the filler neck on theexpansion tank. The presence of rust orcorrosion in the filler neck indicates that thecoolant should be changed. The coolantinside the expansion tank should be relativelyclean and transparent. If it is rust-coloured,drain and flush the system, and refill with afresh coolant mixture.3 Carefully check the radiator hoses andheater hoses as described in Section 8.4 Inspect all other cooling systemcomponents (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leakin the cooling system will usually show up aswhite- or rust-coloured deposits on the areaadjoining the leak. Where any problems of thisnature are found on system components,renew the component or gasket withreference to Chapter 3.5 Clean the front of the radiator with a softbrush to remove all insects, leaves, etc,embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not

to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingerson them.

10 Accelerator cable andlinkage check andlubrication 1

1 From within the engine compartment checkthe condition of the accelerator cableensuring that it isn’t kinked or trapped behindany other components or fittings. Make surethat all clips and cable ties are in place andthat the cable properly supported. Wherecruise control is fitted, check the cruisecontrol operating cable in the same way.2 Operate the throttle by means of theaccelerator pedal and make sure that theaction is smooth without notchiness orevidence of binding.3 Finally, lubricate the throttle linkage and theaccelerator pedal pivot with a few drops oflight oil.

11 Spark plug renewal 1Note: Spark plug renewal at this serviceinterval is only necessary on certain engineswithout emission control equipment. On all

other engines the recommended interval forspark plug renewal is every 24 000 miles or 2 years. Consult the spark plug manufactureror a Rover dealer for their advice concerningrenewal intervals.

Spark plug check and renewal1 It is vital for the correct running, fullperformance and proper economy of theengine that the spark plugs perform withmaximum efficiency. The most importantfactor in ensuring this, is that the plugs fittedare appropriate for the engine. The suitabletype is given in the Specifications Section atthe beginning of this Chapter, or in thevehicle’s Owner’s Handbook. If this type isused and the engine is in good condition, thespark plugs should not need attentionbetween scheduled renewal intervals. Sparkplug cleaning is rarely necessary, and shouldnot be attempted unless specialisedequipment is available, as damage can easilybe caused to the firing ends.2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires aspark plug socket, with an extension whichcan be turned by a ratchet handle or similar.This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, toprotect the porcelain insulator of the sparkplug, and to hold the plug while you insert itinto the spark plug hole. You will also need awire-type feeler gauge, to check and adjustthe spark plug electrode gap, and a torque

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wrench to tighten the new plugs to thespecified torque (see illustration).3 To remove the spark plugs, first open thebonnet; the plugs are easily reached at thetop of the engine or on the front and rearfacing sides. Note how the spark plug (HT)leads are routed and secured by clips, and onsome engines, how they’re positioned alongthe channel in the cylinder head cover. Toprevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug(HT) leads, it is a good idea to work on onespark plug at a time.4 If the marks on the original-equipmentspark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, markthe leads 1 to 4 (or 1 to 6), to correspond tothe cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is atthe timing belt end of the engine on 4-cylinderengines, and at the timing belt end of theengine on the rear bank under the brakemaster cylinder on V6 engines).5 On 4-cylinder engines, undo the boltssecuring the spark plug cover to the centre ofthe cylinder head, noting the accelerator cablesupport bracket on early engines. Lift off thecover and again, on early engines, release theHT lead grommet from the end of the cover.6 On all engines, pull the leads from the plugsby gripping the rubber boot, not the lead,otherwise the lead connection may befractured.7 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that thesocket is kept in alignment with each plug - ifthe socket is forcibly moved to either side, theporcelain top of the plug may be broken off. Ifany undue difficulty is encountered whenunscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully

check the cylinder head threads and taperedsealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessivecorrosion or damage; if any of theseconditions is found, seek the advice of adealer as to the best method of repair.8 As each plug is removed, examine it asfollows - this will give a good indication of thecondition of the engine. If the insulator nose ofthe spark plug is clean and white, with nodeposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture.9 If the tip and insulator nose are coveredwith hard black-looking deposits, then this isindicative that the mixture is too rich. Shouldthe plug be black and oily, then it is likely thatthe engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixturebeing too rich.10 If the insulator nose is covered with lighttan to greyish-brown deposits, then themixture is correct, and it is likely that theengine is in good condition.11 If you are renewing the spark plugs,purchase the new plugs, then check each ofthem first for faults such as cracked insulatorsor damaged threads. Note also that,whenever the spark plugs are renewed as aroutine service operation, the spark plug (HT)leads should be checked as described below.12 The spark plug electrode gap is ofconsiderable importance as, if it is too large ortoo small, the size of the spark and its efficiencywill be seriously impaired. The gap should beset to the value given in the SpecificationsSection of this Chapter. New plugs will notnecessarily be set to the correct gap, so theyshould always be checked before fitting.13 Special spark plug electrode gapadjusting tools are available from most motoraccessory shops.14 To set the electrode gap, measure the gapwith a feeler gauge or adjusting tool, and thenbend open, or closed, the outer plug electrodeuntil the correct gap is achieved (seeillustrations). The centre electrode shouldnever be bent, as this may crack the insulationand cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If theouter electrode is not exactly over the centreelectrode, bend it gently to align them.15 Before fitting the spark plugs, check thatthe threaded connectorsleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, andthat the plug exterior surfaces and threads are

clean. Brown staining on the porcelain,immediately above the metal body, is quitenormal, and does not necessarily indicate aleak between the body and insulator.16 On installing the spark plugs, first checkthat the cylinder head thread and sealingsurface are as clean as possible; use a cleanrag wrapped around a paintbrush to wipeclean the sealing surface. Apply a smear ofcopper-based grease or anti-seize compoundto the threads of each plug, and screw themin by hand where possible.

17 When each spark plug is started correctlyon its threads, screw it down until it just seatslightly, then tighten it to the specified torquewrench setting.18 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads intheir correct order, using a twisting motion onthe boot until it is firmly seated. On 4-cylinderengines, refit the spark cover.

Spark plug (HT) lead anddistributor cap check19 The spark plug (HT) leads should beinspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up

1•14 Every 12 000 miles

11.14c . . . then use the end of the specialtool to adjust the gap

11.14b . . . or adjusting tool . . .11.14a Measure the spark plug gap with afeeler gauge . . .

11.2 Tools required for spark plugremoval, gap adjustment and refitting

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Take extra care to enter the plugthreads correctly, as the cylinder headis of aluminium alloy - it’s often difficultto insert spark plugs into their holeswithout cross-threading them. To avoidthis possibility, fit a short piece of hoseover the end of the spark plug. Theflexible hose acts as a universal joint,to help align the plug with the plughole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the sparkplug, preventing thread damage.

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the firing order, which is essential for properengine operation. Gain access to the leadsand disconnect them as described above forthe spark plug check and renewal.20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, whichwill look like a white crusty powder. Clean thisoff as much as possible; if it is excessive, or ifcleaning leaves the metal connector too badlycorroded to be fit for further use, the leadmust be renewed. Push the lead and bootback onto the end of the spark plug. The bootshould fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if itdoesn’t, remove the lead and use plierscarefully to crimp the metal connector insidethe boot until the fit is snug.21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire lengthof the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease.Once the lead is clean, check for burns,cracks and other damage. Do not bend thelead sharply, because the conductor mightbreak.22 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT)leads, ensuring that each is securely fastenedat the distributor cap and spark plug when thecheck is complete. If any sign of arcing,severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks orother damage is noticed, obtain new sparkplug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. Ifnew spark plug leads are to be fitted, removeand refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-upsin the firing order.23 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove thedistributor cap then thoroughly clean it insideand out with a dry lint-free rag.24 Examine the HT lead segments inside thecap. If they appear badly burned or pittedrenew the cap. Also check the carbon brushin the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is freeto move and stands proud of its holder. Makesure that there are no sign of cracks or black“tracking” lines running down the inside of thecap, which will also mean renewal if evident.Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5 oncompletion.

12 Air cleaner element renewal 11 The air cleaner filter element is located inthe air cleaner assembly mounted on the left-

hand side of the engine compartment. Undothe retaining screws and/or release the clips,and lift the air cleaner cover, disconnectingthe vacuum hose where fitted. Lift the elementout of the housing, together with its supportframe on V6 engines, and wipe out thehousing (see illustrations). Check that noforeign matter is visible, either in the air intakeor in the housing.2 If carrying out a routine service, the elementmust be renewed regardless of its apparentcondition. If you are checking the element forany other reason, inspect its lower surface; ifit is oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it isonly moderately dusty, it can be re-used byblowing it clean from the upper to the lowersurface with compressed air.

Warning: Wear eye protectionwhen using compressed air!Because it is a pleated-papertype filter, it cannot be washed

or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleanedsatisfactorily with compressed air, discardand renew it. Caution: Never drive the vehicle with theair cleaner filter element removed.Excessive engine wear could result, andbackfiring could even cause a fire underthe bonnet.3 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the element and coverare securely seated, so that unfiltered aircannot enter the engine.

13 Electrical system check 11 Check the operation of all external lightsand indicators (front and rear).2 Check for satisfactory operation of theinstrument panel, its illumination and warninglights, the switches and their function lights.3 Check the horn(s) for satisfactory operation.4 Check all other electrical equipment forsatisfactory operation.5 Check all electrical wiring in the enginecompartment for correct routing, and for any signs of physical or heat-damage orchafing.

14 Battery check, maintenanceand charging 2

Warning: Certain precautionsmust be followed whenchecking and servicing thebattery. Hydrogen gas, which is

highly flammable, is always present in thebattery cells, so keep lighted tobacco andall other open flames and sparks awayfrom the battery. The electrolyte inside thebattery is actually dilute sulphuric acid,which will cause injury if splashed on yourskin or in your eyes. It will also ruin clothesand painted surfaces. When disconnectingthe battery, always detach the negative(earth) lead first and connect it last!

Note: Before disconnecting the battery, referto Section 1 of Chapter 5.

General1 A routine preventive maintenanceprogramme for the battery in your vehicle isthe only way to ensure quick and reliablestarts. Before performing any batterymaintenance, make sure that you have theproper equipment necessary to work safelyaround the battery.2 There are also several precautions thatshould be taken whenever batterymaintenance is performed. Before servicingthe battery, always turn the engine and allaccessories off, and disconnect the lead fromthe negative terminal of the battery - seeChapter 5, Section 1.3 The battery produces hydrogen gas, whichis both flammable and explosive. Never createa spark, smoke, or light a match around thebattery. Always charge the battery in a well-ventilated area.4 Electrolyte contains poisonous andcorrosive sulphuric acid. Do not allow it to getin your eyes, on your skin, or on your clothes.Never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasseswhen working near the battery. Keep childrenaway from the battery.5 Note the external condition of the battery. Ifthe positive terminal and lead clamp on yourvehicle’s battery is equipped with a plastic

Every 12 000 miles 1•15

12.1c Lift the element out of the housing,together with its support frame on V6 engines

12.1b . . . and element on 4-cylinderengines with single-point fuel injection

12.1a Removing the air cleaner cover . . .

1

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cover or rubber protector, make sure that it’snot torn or damaged. It should completelycover the terminal. Look for any corroded orloose connections, cracks in the case orcover, or loose hold-down clamps. Check theentire length of each lead for cracks andfrayed conductors.6 If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffydeposits is evident, particularly around theterminals, the battery should be removed forcleaning as described in Chapter 5, Section 2.7 Clean the lead clamps thoroughly, using asoft wire brush or a terminal cleaner, with asolution of warm water and baking soda.Wash the terminals and the top of the batterycase with the same solution, but make surethat the solution doesn’t get into the battery.When cleaning the leads, terminals andbattery top, wear safety goggles and rubbergloves, to prevent any solution from coming incontact with your eyes or hands. Wear oldclothes too - even when diluted, acidsplashed onto clothes will burn holes in them.Wash all cleaned areas with plain water.8 Make sure that the battery tray is in goodcondition and the hold-down clamp nuts aretight. If the battery is removed from the tray,make sure no parts remain in the bottom ofthe tray when the battery is refitted. Whenrefitting the hold-down clamp nuts, do notovertighten them.9 Information on jump starting can be foundat the front of this manual. For more detailedbattery checking procedures, refer to theHaynes “Automobile Electrical and ElectronicSystems Manual”.

Cleaning10 Corrosion on the hold-down components,battery case and surrounding areas can beremoved with a solution of water and bakingsoda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas withplain water.11 Any metal parts of the vehicle damagedby corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted.

ChargingWarning: When batteries arebeing charged, hydrogen gas,which is very explosive andflammable, is produced. Do not

smoke, or allow open flames, near acharging or a recently-charged battery.Wear eye protection when near the batteryduring charging. Also, make sure thecharger is unplugged before connecting ordisconnecting the battery from the charger.12 Slow-rate charging is the best way torestore a battery that’s discharged to thepoint where it will not start the engine. It’s alsoa good way to maintain the battery charge in avehicle that’s only driven a few miles betweenstarts. Maintaining the battery charge isparticularly important in winter, when thebattery must work harder to start the engine,and electrical accessories that drain thebattery are in greater use.

13 It’s best to use a one- or two-amp batterycharger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger).They are the safest, and put the least strain onthe battery. They are also the least expensive.For a faster charge, you can use a higher-amperage charger, but don’t use one ratedmore than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of thebattery (ie no more than 5 amps, typically).Rapid boost charges that claim to restore thepower of the battery in one to two hours arehardest on the battery, and can damagebatteries not in good condition. This type ofcharging should only be used in emergencysituations.14 The average time necessary to charge abattery should be listed in the instructions thatcome with the charger. As a general rule, atrickle charger will charge a battery in 12 to 16 hours.

15 Seat belt check 11 Check the seat belts for satisfactoryoperation and condition. Inspect the webbingfor fraying and cuts. Check that they retractsmoothly and without binding into their reels.2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts aretight, and if necessary tighten them to thespecified torque wrench setting (see Chap-ter 11).

16 Auxiliary drivebelts checkand renewal 2

General1 The number and type of auxiliary drivebeltsdepends on the engine, year of manufacture,and whether or not the vehicle is equippedwith air conditioning. The belt will be either aV-belt or a flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”)type. All the drivebelts are located on theright-hand end of the engine and are drivenfrom the crankshaft pulley. Early “M” series 4-cylinder engines have an additionaldrivebelt for the power steering pump, whichis driven from a pulley on the camshaft.

2 The good condition and proper tension ofthe auxiliary drivebelts is critical to theoperation of the engine. Because of theircomposition and the high stresses to whichthey are subjected, drivebelts stretch anddeteriorate as they get older. They must,therefore, be regularly inspected.

Check3 With the engine switched off, open andsupport the bonnet, then locate the auxiliarydrivebelts fitted to your car (Be very careful,and wear protective gloves to minimise therisk of burning your hands on hotcomponents, if the engine has recently beenrunning). For improved access, jack up thefront of the vehicle, support it securely on axlestands, remove the roadwheel, then removethe cover from inside the wheelarch.4 Using an inspection light or a small electrictorch, and rotating the engine when necessarywith a spanner applied to the crankshaftpulley bolt, check the whole length of thedrivebelt for cracks, separation of the rubber,and torn or worn ribs. Also check for frayingand glazing, which gives the drivebelt a shinyappearance. Both sides of the drivebeltshould be inspected, and you will have totwist the drivebelt to check the underside.Use your fingers to feel the drivebelt whereyou can’t see it. If you are in any doubt as tothe condition of the drivebelt, renew it.

Drivebelt tension - 4-cylinderengines

Alternator drivebelt (early “M” seriesengines)5 Check that it is just possible to twist thebelt by hand through 90º at a point midwaybetween the two pulleys. If adjustment isnecessary, proceed as follows.6 Slacken the two alternator adjustmentbracket bolts and the alternator pivot bolt andnut (see illustrations).7 Lever the alternator away from the engineuntil the drivebelt is moderately tight. Thealternator must only be levered with care atthe drive end bracket. Hold the alternator inthis position and tighten the adjustmentbracket bolts and pivot nut and bolt.

1•16 Every 12 000 miles

16.6b . . . and pivot bolt retaining nut onearly “M” series 4-cylinder engines

16.6a Alternator adjustment bracket bolts(arrowed) . . .

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Power steering pump drivebelt (early“M” series engines)8 Refer to Chapter 4, Part A or B, and removethe air cleaner components as necessary, foraccess.9 Undo the retaining screw and remove thecover over the camshaft pulley (see illustration).10 Undo the bolts securing the coolantbypass pipe to the cylinder head and to themain coolant pipe, and move the bypass pipeaside as necessary for access.11 To check and adjust the belt tensionaccurately it will be necessary to obtain asocket to fit the power steering pump pulleyretaining nut, a socket bar of at least 12 inchesin length, and a spring balance capable ofrecording a minimum of 25 lbs. Make a paintmark or similar on the socket bar, 12 inches upfrom the centre of the square drive end.12 Slacken the centre retaining nut on thebelt tensioner wheel, then turn the tensionadjuster bolt clockwise until the belt is slack.Retighten the tensioner wheel retaining nut to5.0 Nm.13 Fit the socket and bar to the pump pulleyretaining nut, and position it so that the socketbar is vertical.14 Attach the spring balance to the socketbar at the point marked 12 inches up from thesquare drive end.15 Turn the adjuster bolt anti-clockwise untilit takes a pull of 25 lbs to make the pumppulley slip. This procedure is shown (seeillustration 16.9), but using the Rover specialtool. The socket and bar are a substitute forthis tool.16 Remove the socket, bar and springbalance, then turn the crankshaft until thecamshaft pulley has turned through 180º.17 Check the belt tension again, and re-adjust if necessary.18 Now turn the tension adjuster bolt anti-clockwise two complete turns.19 Tighten the tensioner wheel retaining nutfully to the specified torque.20 Refit the coolant pipe retaining bolts, andthe cover over the camshaft pulley.21 Refit the air cleaner components.

Alternator/power steering pump/airconditioning compressor drivebelt(later “M” series engines)22 Accurate tensioning of the drivebelt oncars with this arrangement can only beachieved with the Rover belt tensioning tool,and ideally this operation should be carriedout by a Rover dealer. However, if a new belthas been fitted, or if the existing tension isextremely slack, a rough approximation as atemporary measure can be achieved using thefollowing procedure.23 To adjust the belt tension, slacken the idlerpulley retaining nut, then turn the adjuster boltclockwise to increase the tension or anti-clockwise to decrease it, until it is just possibleto twist the belt by hand through 90º at a pointmidway between the crankshaft and powersteering pump pulleys (see illustration).

Every 12 000 miles 1•17

16.23 Drivebelt adjustment on later “M” series 4-cylinder engines1 Drivebelt 2 Checking gauge - Rover

special tool3 Idler pulley retaining nut4 Adjuster bolt

16.9 Power steering pump drivebelt adjustment on early “M” series 4-cylinder engines

1 Camshaft pulley coverretaining screw

2 Camshaft pulley cover3 Coolant pipe retaining bolt

4 Coolant pipe5 Drivebelt6 Belt tensioner wheel centre

retaining nut

7 Tension adjuster bolt8 Rover special tool for

checking tension9 Spring balance

1

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24 When the tension is correct, tighten theidler pulley retaining nut to the specifiedtorque and lower the car to the ground.

Alternator/power steering pump/airconditioning compressor drivebelt(“T” series engines)25 “T” series engines are fitted with anautomatic drivebelt tensioner incorporating awear indicator to show when the belt hasstretched too far for the tensioner to maintaincorrect adjustment (see illustration).26 To check the tension, observe the wearindicator and make sure that the pointer hasnot reached the right-hand end of the slot. If ithasn’t, all is well, and no further action isnecessary; if it has, renew the belt.

Drivebelt tension - V6 enginesAlternator drivebelt27 Undo the three bolts and one nut securingthe power steering pump and alternator pulley

covers to the top of the engine. Move thepipes and cables clear and lift off the covers(see illustration).28 The belt tension is correct when it is justpossible to deflect the belt by 18 to 22 mm atthe mid-point of its run, under moderate fingerpressure. If adjustment is required, proceedas follows.29 Slacken the alternator side pivot bolt andlower mounting nut, then turn the adjustingbolt on the side of the unit as necessary toachieve the correct tension (seeillustrations).30 Tighten the pivot and mounting nuts andbolts and refit the covers to the top of theengine.

Power steering pump drivebelt31 Undo the three bolts and one nut securingthe power steering pump and alternator pulleycovers to the top of the engine. Move thepipes and cables clear and lift off the covers.

32 The belt tension is correct when it is justpossible to deflect the belt by 18 to 22 mm atthe mid-point of its run, under moderate fingerpressure. If adjustment is required, proceedas follows.33 Slacken the pump adjusting nut andmounting bolt, then engage the end of a 1/2 inch square drive socket bar in the hole atthe rear of the large lug on top of the pump(see illustrations). Using the bar, move thepump as necessary, until the belt tension iscorrect, then tighten the adjusting andmounting nut and bolt.

Air conditioning compressor drivebelt34 The belt tension is correct when it is justpossible to deflect the belt by 7 to 9 mm at apoint mid-way between the crankshaft pulleyand the tensioner jockey wheel, under

1•18 Every 12 000 miles

16.33b . . . then engage the end of asocket bar in the lug on top of the pump to

adjust the belt

16.29a . . . slacken the alternator sidepivot bolt (arrowed) . . .

16.33a Slacken the V6 engine powersteering pump adjusting nut . . .

16.29b . . . and lower mounting nut(arrowed), then turn the adjusting bolt to

achieve the correct tension

16.27 On V6 engines, remove the pulleycovers over the top of the engine . . .

16.25 Drivebelt adjustment details on “T” series engines

1 Wheelarch cover retainingbolts

2 Wheelarch cover3 Tensioner wear indicator

4 Releasing the tensioner forbelt renewal

5 Drivebelt

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moderate finger pressure. If adjustment isrequired, proceed as follows.35 Slacken the bolt in the centre of thetensioner jockey wheel, then turn theadjusting bolt, behind the adjuster, to obtainthe correct belt tension (see illustration).When the adjustment is correct, tighten thejockey wheel bolt.

Renewal - 4-cylinder engines36 Open the bonnet, jack up the front of thevehicle (where applicable) and support itsecurely on an axle stands, remove theroadwheel, then remove the cover from insidethe wheelarch.37 The routing of the drivebelt around thepulleys is dependant on the drivebelt type andwhether or not air conditioning is fitted. Beforeremoving the drivebelt, it’s a good idea tosketch the belt run around the pulleys; this willsave a lot of frustration when it comes torefitting.38 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted,mark it, or note the maker’s markings on itsflat surface, so that it can be installed in thesame way.39 To renew the drivebelt, slacken the belttension fully as described above according totype, noting that where an automatictensioner is fitted, it is only necessary to turnthe tensioner centre bolt clockwise, using aspanner, to release the belt tension. Slip thebelt off the pulleys then fit the new beltensuring that it is routed correctly. With thebelt in position, adjust the tension aspreviously described, or simply release thetensioner bolt.40 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaftpulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through atleast two full turns clockwise to settle thedrivebelt on the pulleys, then check that thedrivebelt is properly installed.41 Refit the cover and roadwheel, then lowerthe vehicle to the ground.

Renewal - V6 engines42 Open the bonnet, jack up the front of thevehicle (where applicable) and support itsecurely on an axle stands, remove theroadwheel, then remove the cover from insidethe wheelarch.

43 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted,mark it, or note the maker’s markings on itsflat surface, so that it can be installed thesame way.44 Depending on which drivebelt is to berenewed, it will probably be necessary toremove one (or both) of the other drivebeltsfirst, to gain access. Note also, that if thepower steering pump drivebelt is to berenewed, it will be necessary to support theengine under the sump on a jack (withinterposed block of wood) and undo the twobolts on the right-hand engine mounting, toallow the belt to pass through.45 To renew the drivebelt, slacken the belttension fully as described above according totype. Slip the belt off the pulleys then fit thenew belt. With the belt in position, refit theengine mounting bolts (where applicable) andadjust the tension as previously described.46 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaftpulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through atleast two full turns clockwise to settle thedrivebelt on the pulleys, then check that thedrivebelt is properly installed.47 Refit the cover and roadwheel, then lowerthe vehicle to the ground.

17 Engine compartment wiringcheck 2

1 With the vehicle parked on level ground,apply the handbrake firmly and open thebonnet. Using an inspection light or a smallelectric torch, check all visible wiring withinand beneath the engine compartment.2 What you are looking for is wiring that isobviously damaged by chafing against sharpedges, or against moving suspension/transmission components and/or the auxiliarydrivebelts, by being trapped or crushedbetween carelessly-refitted components, ormelted by being forced into contact with thehot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. Inalmost all cases, damage of this sort iscaused in the first instance by incorrectrouting on reassembly after previous work hasbeen carried out.3 Depending on the extent of the problem,damaged wiring may sometimes be repairedby rejoining the break or splicing-in a newlength of wire, using solder to ensure a goodconnection, and remaking the insulation withadhesive insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing,as appropriate. If the damage is extensive,given the implications for the vehicle’s futurereliability, the best long-term answer may wellbe to renew that entire section of the loom,however expensive this may appear.4 When the actual damage has beenrepaired, ensure that the wiring loom is re-routed correctly, so that it is clear of othercomponents, and not stretched or kinked, andis secured out of harm’s way using the plasticclips, guides and ties provided.5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring

that they are clean, securely fastened, andthat each is locked by its plastic tabs or wireclip, as appropriate. If any connector showsexternal signs of corrosion (accumulations ofwhite or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”),or if any is thought to be dirty, it must beunplugged and cleaned using electricalcontact cleaner. If the connector pins areseverely corroded, the connector must berenewed; note that this may mean the renewalof that entire section of the loom - see yourlocal Rover dealer for details.6 If the cleaner completely removes thecorrosion to leave the connector in asatisfactory condition, it would be wise topack the connector with a material which willexclude dirt and moisture, preventing thecorrosion from occurring again.7 Check the condition of the batteryconnections - remake the connections orrenew the leads if a fault is found. Use thesame techniques to ensure that all earthpoints in the engine compartment providegood electrical contact through clean, metal-to-metal joints, and that all are securelyfastened.8 Refer to Section 11 for details of spark plug(HT) lead checks.

18 Air conditioning systemcheck 1

Warning: The air conditioningsystem is under high pressure. Donot loosen any fittings or removeany components until after the

system has been discharged. Air conditioningrefrigerant must be properly discharged intoan approved type of container, at a dealerservice department or an automotive airconditioning repair facility capable ofhandling the refrigerant safely. Always weareye protection when disconnecting airconditioning system fittings.1 The following maintenance checks shouldbe performed on a regular basis, to ensurethat the air conditioner continues to operate atpeak efficiency:(a) Check the auxiliary drivebelt. If it’s worn

or deteriorated, renew it (see Section 16).(b) Check the system hoses. Look for cracks,

bubbles, hard spots and deterioration.Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oilbubbles and seepage. If there’s anyevidence of wear, damage or leaks, renewthe hose(s).

(c) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,insects and other debris. Use a “fincomb” or compressed air to clean thecondenser.

Warning: Wear eye protectionwhen using compressed air!

(d) Check that the drain tube from the frontof the evaporator is clear - note that it isnormal to have clear fluid (water) dripping

Every 12 000 miles 1•19

16.35 Air conditioning compressordrivebelt tensioner jockey wheel bolt (A),

and adjusting bolt (B) on V6 engines

1

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from this while the system is in operation,to the extent that quite a large puddle canbe left under the vehicle when it is parked.

2 It’s a good idea to operate the system forabout 30 minutes at least once a month,particularly during the winter. Long term non-use can cause hardening, and subsequentfailure, of the seals.3 Because of the complexity of the airconditioning system and the specialequipment necessary to service it, in-depthfault diagnosis and repairs are not included inthis manual. For more complete informationon the air conditioning system, refer to theHaynes “Automotive Heating and AirConditioning Manual”.4 The most common cause of poor cooling issimply a low system refrigerant charge. If anoticeable drop in cool air output occurs, thefollowing quick check will help you determineif the refrigerant level is low.5 Warm the engine up to normal operatingtemperature.6 Place the air conditioning temperatureselector at the coldest setting, and put theblower at the highest setting. Open the doors- to make sure the air conditioning systemdoesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools thepassenger compartment.7 With the compressor engaged - the clutchwill make an audible click, and the centre ofthe clutch will rotate - feel the inlet and outletpipes at the compressor. One side should becold, and one hot. If there’s no perceptibledifference between the two pipes, there’ssomething wrong with the compressor or thesystem. It might be a low charge - it might besomething else. Take the vehicle to a dealerservice department or an automotive airconditioning specialist.

19 Engine base idle speed andCO content check 4

Refer to the appropriate Parts of Chapter 4.

20 Manual transmission oil levelcheck 1

1 The manual transmission does not have adipstick. To check the oil level, raise thevehicle and support it securely on axle stands,making sure that the vehicle is level. On theleft-hand side of the transmission casing, tothe rear of the constant velocity joint, you willsee the filler/level plug. Wipe around the plugwith a rag, then unscrew and remove it. If thelevel is correct, the oil should be up to thelower edge of the hole.2 If the transmission needs more lubricant (ifthe oil level is not up to the hole), use asyringe, or a plastic bottle and tube, to addmore (see illustration). Stop filling thetransmission when the lubricant begins to run

out of the hole. Make sure that you refer to“Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at thebeginning of this Chapter for the correct gradeof lubricant to use, according to transmissiontype.3 Refit the filler/level plug, and tighten it to thespecified torque wrench setting. Drive thevehicle a short distance, then check for leaks.4 A need for regular topping-up can only bedue to a leak, which should be found andrectified without delay.

21 Steering, suspension androadwheel check 1

Front suspension and steeringcheck1 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front ofthe vehicle and support it on axle stands.2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers andthe steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing ordeterioration. Any wear of these componentswill cause loss of lubricant, together with dirtand water entry, resulting in rapid deteriorationof the balljoints or steering gear.3 Check the power-assisted steering fluidhoses for chafing or deterioration, and thepipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Alsocheck for signs of fluid leakage underpressure from the steering gear rubbergaiters, which would indicate failed fluid sealswithin the steering gear.4 Check for signs of fluid leakage around theshock absorber body, or from the rubber bootaround the piston rod (where fitted). Shouldany fluid be noticed, the shock absorber isdefective internally, and renewal is necessary.5 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it. Veryslight free play may be felt, but if themovement is appreciable, further investigationis necessary to determine the source.Continue rocking the wheel while an assistantdepresses the footbrake. If the movement isnow eliminated or significantly reduced, it islikely that the hub bearings are at fault. If thefree play is still evident with the footbrakedepressed, then there is wear in thesuspension joints or mountings.

6 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it asbefore. Any movement felt now may again becaused by wear in the hub bearings or thesteering track rod balljoints. If the outer trackrod end balljoint is worn, the visual movementwill be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, itcan be felt by placing a hand over the rack-and-pinion rubber gaiter, and gripping thetrack rod. If the wheel is now rocked,movement will be felt at the inner joint if wearhas taken place.7 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, checkfor wear in the suspension mounting bushesby levering between the relevant suspensioncomponent and its attachment point. Somemovement is to be expected as the mountingsare made of rubber, but excessive wearshould be obvious. Also check the conditionof any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,cracks or contamination of the rubber.8 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,have an assistant turn the steering wheelback-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn eachway. There should be very little, if any, lostmovement between the steering wheel androadwheels. If this is not the case, closelyobserve the joints and mountings previouslydescribed, but in addition, check the steeringcolumn universal joints for wear, and alsocheck the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.9 The efficiency of the shock absorber maybe checked by bouncing the car at each frontcorner. Generally speaking, the body willreturn to its normal position and stop afterbeing depressed. If it rises and returns on arebound, the shock absorber is probablysuspect. Examine also the shock absorberupper and lower mountings for any signs ofwear.

Rear suspension check10 Chock the front wheels, then raise the rearof the vehicle and support it on axle stands.11 Check the rear hub bearings for wear,using the method described for the front hubbearings (paragraph 4).12 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar,check for wear in the suspension mountingbushes by levering between the relevantsuspension component and its attachmentpoint. Some movement is to be expected asthe mountings are made of rubber, butexcessive wear should be obvious. Check thecondition of the shock absorbers asdescribed previously.

Roadwheel check and balancing13 Periodically remove the roadwheels, andclean any dirt or mud from the inside andoutside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims forsigns of rusting, corrosion or other damage.Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by“kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly, steelwheels may become dented or buckled.Renewal of the wheel is very often the onlycourse of remedial action possible.14 The balance of each wheel and tyre

1•20 Every 12 000 miles

20.2 Topping up the manual transmissionoil

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assembly should be maintained, not only toavoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoidwear in the steering and suspensioncomponents. Wheel imbalance is normallysignified by vibration through the vehicle’sbodyshell, although in many cases it isparticularly noticeable through the steeringwheel. Conversely, it should be noted thatwear or damage in suspension or steeringcomponents may cause excessive tyre wear.Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damagedwheels and wheel bearing wear/maladjustment also fall into this category.Balancing will not usually cure vibrationcaused by such wear.15 Wheel balancing may be carried out withthe wheel either on or off the vehicle. Ifbalanced on the vehicle, ensure that thewheel-to-hub relationship is marked in someway prior to subsequent wheel removal, sothat it may be refitted in its original position.

22 Driveshaft rubber gaiter andCV joint check 1

1 The driveshaft rubber gaiters are veryimportant, because they prevent dirt, waterand foreign material from entering anddamaging the constant velocity (CV) joints.External contamination can cause the gaitermaterial to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s agood idea to wash the gaiters with soap andwater occasionally.2 With the vehicle raised and securelysupported on axle stands, turn the steeringonto full-lock, then slowly rotate each frontwheel in turn. Inspect the condition of theouter constant velocity (CV) joint rubbergaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out thefolds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, ordeterioration of the rubber, which may allowthe escape of grease, and lead to the ingressof water and grit into the joint. Also check thesecurity and condition of the retaining clips.Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. Ifany damage or deterioration is found, thegaiters should be renewed as described inChapter 8.3 At the same time, check the generalcondition of the outer CV joints themselves,

by first holding the driveshaft and attemptingto rotate the wheels. Repeat this check on theinner joints, by holding the inner joint yokeand attempting to rotate the driveshaft.4 Any appreciable movement in the CV jointindicates wear in the joint, wear in thedriveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaftretaining nut.

23 Exhaust system check 11 With the engine cold (at least three hoursafter the vehicle has been driven), check thecomplete exhaust system, from its startingpoint at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, whereunrestricted access is available; if a hoist isnot available, raise and support the vehicle onaxle stands.2 Check the pipes and connections forevidence of leaks, severe corrosion, ordamage. Make sure that all brackets andrubber mountings are in good condition, andtight; if any of the mountings are to berenewed, ensure that the replacements are ofthe correct type (see illustration). Leakage atany of the joints or in other parts of the systemwill usually show up as a black sooty stain inthe vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealantsshould not be used on any part of the exhaustsystem upstream of the catalytic converter -even if the sealant does not contain additivesharmful to the converter, pieces of it maybreak off and foul the element, causing localoverheating.3 At the same time, inspect the underside ofthe body for holes, corrosion, open seams,etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enterthe passenger compartment. Seal all bodyopenings with silicone or body putty.4 Rattles and other noises can often betraced to the exhaust system, especially therubber mountings. Try to move the system,silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If anycomponents can touch the body orsuspension parts, secure the exhaust systemwith new mountings.

24 Underbody and fuel/brakeline check 1

1 With the vehicle raised and supported onaxle stands or over an inspection pit,thoroughly inspect the underbody andwheelarches for signs of damage andcorrosion. In particular, examine the bottom ofthe side sills, and any concealed areas wheremud can collect. Where corrosion and rust isevident, press and tap firmly on the panel witha screwdriver, and check for any seriouscorrosion which would necessitate repairs. Ifthe panel is not seriously corroded, cleanaway the rust, and apply a new coating of

underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for moredetails of body repairs.2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coatedlower body panels for stone damage andgeneral condition.3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on theunderbody for damage, rust, corrosion andleakage. Also make sure that they arecorrectly supported in their clips. Whereapplicable, check the PVC coating on thelines for damage.

25 Clutch operation andhydraulic hose conditioncheck 1

1 Check the clutch pedal moves smoothlyand easily through its travel, and that theclutch functions correctly, with no trace of slipor drag.2 Remove the closing panels under the faciafor access to the pedal and apply a few dropsof light oil to the pedal pivot. Refit the panel.3 From within the engine compartment checkthe condition of the fluid lines and hoses asdescribed in Section 8. Now have a lookunder the front of the car at the clutch slavecylinder. Check for signs of fluid leaks aroundthe rubber boot and check the security of thelinkage. Apply a few drops of oil to thepushrod clevis pin and linkage.

26 Brake check 2Note: For detailed photographs of the brakesystem, refer to Chapter 9.1 The work described in this Section shouldbe carried out at the specified intervals, orwhenever a defect is suspected in the brakingsystem. Any of the following symptoms couldindicate a potential brake system defect:(a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the

brake pedal is depressed.(b) The brakes make scraping or dragging

noises when applied.(c) Brake pedal travel is excessive.(d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-

up.2 A thorough inspection should be made toconfirm the thickness of the pad linings, asfollows.3 Jack up the front or rear of the vehicle inturn, and support it on axle stands.4 For better access to the brake calipers,remove the wheels.5 Look through the inspection window in thecaliper, and check that the thickness of thefriction lining material on each of the pads isnot less than the recommended minimumthickness given in the Specifications. Note:Bear in mind that the lining material is normallybonded to a metal backing plate.6 If it is difficult to determine the exactthickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all

Every 12 000 miles 1•21

23.2 Typical exhaust system rubbermountings and brackets

1

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concerned about the condition of the pads,then remove them from the calipers for furtherinspection (refer to Chapter 9).7 Check the remaining brake caliper(s) in thesame way.8 If any one of the brake pads has worn downto, or below, the specified limit, all four padsat that end of the car must be renewed as aset (ie all the front pads or all the rear pads).9 Measure the thickness of the discs with amicrometer, if available, to make sure thatthey still have service life remaining. If anydisc is thinner than the specified minimumthickness, renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In anycase, check the general condition of thediscs. Look for excessive scoring anddiscolouration caused by overheating. If theseconditions exist, remove the relevant disc andhave it resurfaced or renewed (refer toChapter 9).10 Before refitting the wheels, check allbrake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). Inparticular, check the flexible hoses in thevicinity of the calipers, where they aresubjected to most movement. Bend thembetween the fingers (but do not actually bendthem double, or the casing may be damaged)and check that this does not revealpreviously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits. Oncompletion, apply the handbrake and checkthat the rear wheels are locked. Thehandbrake does not normally require periodicadjustment but if its travel seems excessive,refer to Chapter 9.

27 Door, boot, tailgate andbonnet check andlubrication

11 Check that the doors, bonnet andtailgate/boot lid close securely. Check thatthe bonnet safety catch operates correctly.Check the operation of the door check straps.2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,the striker plates and the bonnet catchsparingly with a little oil or grease.

28 Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check 1

1 The best time to carry out this check is afterthe car has been washed so that any surfaceblemish or scratch will be clearly evident andnot hidden by a film of dirt.2 Starting at one front corner check thepaintwork all around the car, looking for minorscratches or more serious dents. Check allthe trim and make sure that it is securelyattached over its entire length.3 Check the security of all door locks, doormirrors, badges, bumpers radiator grille andwheel trim. Anything found loose, or in needof further attention should be done withreference to the relevant Chapters of thismanual.

4 Rectify any problems noticed with thepaintwork or body panels as described inChapter 11.

29 Roadwheel nut tightnesscheck 1

1 Apply the handbrake and remove the wheeltrim.2 Slacken each wheel nut in turn then, using atorque wrench, tighten it to the specifiedtorque wrench setting. If any of the wheel nutsappear corroded, or are tight to unscrew, jackup and securely support the car at the front orrear as applicable, and remove the relevantwheel. Clean the threads of the wheel studsand apply a high-melting point copper basedgrease to each stud. It’s a good idea to dothis to all the studs at each wheel; if one wascorroded, they’re probably all the same.3 If the nuts were removed, check the torquesetting again after lowering the car, then refitthe wheel trim.

30 Road test 1Check the operation andperformance of the brakingsystem1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull toone side when braking, and that the wheelsdo not lock prematurely when braking hard.2 Check that there is no vibration through thesteering when braking.3 Check that the handbrake operatescorrectly, without excessive movement of thelever, and that it holds the vehicle stationaryon a slope.4 With the engine switched off, test theoperation of the brake servo unit as follows.Depress the footbrake four or five times toexhaust the vacuum, then start the engine. Asthe engine starts, there should be a noticeable“give” in the brake pedal as vacuum buildsup. Allow the engine to run for at least twominutes, and then switch it off. If the brakepedal is now depressed again, it should bepossible to detect a hiss from the servo as thepedal is depressed. After about four or fiveapplications, no further hissing should beheard, and the pedal should feel considerablyharder.

Steering and suspension5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,suspension, handling or road “feel”.6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there areno unusual vibrations or noises.7 Check that the steering feels positive, withno excessive sloppiness or roughness, andcheck for any suspension noises whencornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain8 Check the performance of the engine,transmission and driveshafts.9 Check that the engine starts correctly, bothwhen cold and when hot.10 Listen for any unusual noises from theengine and transmission.11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothlywhen idling, and that there is no hesitationwhen accelerating.12 On manual transmission models, checkthat all gears can be engaged smoothlywithout noise, and that the gear lever action isnot abnormally vague or “notchy”.13 On automatic transmission models, makesure that the drive seems smooth withoutjerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check thatall the gear positions can be selected with thevehicle at rest. If any problems are found, theyshould be referred to a Rover dealer.14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound fromthe front of the vehicle as the vehicle is drivenslowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.Carry out this check in both directions. If aclicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in adriveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint.

Clutch15 Check that the clutch pedal movessmoothly and easily through its full travel, andthat the clutch itself functions correctly, withno trace of slip or drag. If the movement isuneven or stiff in places, check the systemcomponents with reference to Chapter 6.

Instruments and electricalequipment16 Check the operation of all instrumentsand electrical equipment.17 Make sure that all instruments readcorrectly, and switch on all electricalequipment in turn, to check that it functionsproperly.

31 Automatic transmission fluidlevel check 1

1 The level of the automatic transmission fluidshould be carefully maintained. Low fluid levelcan lead to slipping or loss of drive, whileoverfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid andtransmission damage.2 The transmission fluid level should only bechecked when the transmission is hot (at itsnormal operating temperature). If the vehiclehas just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles ina cold climate), and the fluid temperature is160 to 175ºF, the transmission is hot.

4-cylinder engine models3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply thehandbrake, and start the engine. While theengine is idling, depress the brake pedal andmove the selector lever to the “P” (PARK)position.4 Remove the dipstick from its tube located

1•22 Every 12 000 miles

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at the front left-hand side of the engine. Notethe condition and colour of the fluid on thedipstick.5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a cleanrag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until thecap seats.6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note thefluid level. The level should be between the“MIN” and “MAX” marks, on the side of thedipstick marked “HOT” (see illustration). Ifthe level is on the “MIN” mark, stop theengine, and add the specified automatictransmission fluid through the dipstick tube,using a clean funnel if necessary. It isimportant not to introduce dirt into thetransmission when topping-up.7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keepchecking the level as previously describeduntil it is correct. The difference between the“MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick isapproximately 0.3 litre.

V6 engine models8 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply thehandbrake, and start the engine. While theengine is idling, depress the brake pedal andmove the selector lever to the “P” (PARK)position.9 Switch off the engine and wait one minute.10 Remove the dipstick from its tube whichis located at the rear left-hand side of theengine. The dipstick is mounted low down, ontop of the transmission casing and access isnot very good (see illustration). Note thecondition and colour of the fluid on thedipstick.11 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with aclean rag, and re-insert it into the filler tubeuntil the cap seats.12 Pull the dipstick out again, and note thefluid level. The level should be within theshaded sector on the blade. If the level isbelow or very near to the bottom of theshaded sector, add the specified automatic

transmission fluid through the dipstick tube,using a clean funnel (see illustration). It isimportant not to introduce dirt into thetransmission when topping-up.13 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keepchecking the level as previously describeduntil it is correct. The difference between theupper and lower part of the shaded sector isapproximately 0.9 litre.

All models14 The need for regular topping-up of thetransmission fluid indicates a leak, whichshould be found and rectified without delay.15 The condition of the fluid should also bechecked along with the level. If the fluid at theend of the dipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown colour, or if it has a burned smell, thefluid should be changed. If you are in doubtabout the condition of the fluid, purchasesome new fluid, and compare the two forcolour and smell.

Every 24 000 miles 1•23

31.12 Add the specified automatictransmission fluid through the dipstick

tube, using a clean funnel

31.10 Automatic transmission fluid leveldipstick (1), Lower (2) and upper (3) shaded

sector and dipstick tube (4)

31.6 Automatic transmission fluid leveldipstick (1) and level markings on

4-cylinder engine models

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years, whichever occurs first

32 Timing belt condition andtension check 4

1 The manufacturers have increased theservice interval for checking the timing beltcondition and tension on certain engines, dueto the introduction of automatic tensionersand improvements in timing belt constructionand manufacture. However, the conse-quences of timing belt failure can be veryexpensive in terms of possible engine damageand it is still worthwhile to check the belt atthe shorter intervals given in this schedule.The procedures vary considerably accordingto engine type and model year, and referenceshould be made to the appropriate Part ofChapter 2 for full information.

33 Positive CrankcaseVentilation (PCV) systemcheck 1

1 The function of the crankcase ventilationsystem is to reduce the emission of unburnedhydrocarbons from the crankcase, and tominimise the formation of oil sludge. Byensuring that a depression is created in thecrankcase under most operating conditions,particularly at idle, and by positively inducingfresh air into the system, the oil vapours and“blow-by” gases collected in the crankcaseare drawn from the crankcase, through the aircleaner or oil separator, into the inlet tract, tobe burned by the engine during normalcombustion.2 On four cylinder engines, the main

components of the system are an oilseparator, diverter valve and associatedhoses. Checking of the system consists of asimple visual check of the component hosesand their connections.3 On V6 engines the crankcase ventilationsystem main components are a PCV valve,located in the breathing chamber of the frontcamshaft cover, and the hoses that connectto the internal channels in the inlet manifold.As with 4-cylinder engines, checking is limitedto merely a visual hose condition check.Accurate checking of the PCV valve should beentrusted to a dealer.4 Check that all components of the systemare securely fastened, correctly routed (withno kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and insound condition; renew any worn or damagedcomponents.

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5 If oil leakage is noted, disconnect thevarious hoses and pipes, and check that allare clear and unblocked. Remove the aircleaner assembly cover, and check that thehose is clear and undamaged. Always ensurethat the air cleaner filter element is clean asthis is a vital part of the system. If it is not duefor renewal but appears dirty, it may bepossible to clean it as described in Sec-tion 12.

34 Fuel filter renewal 1Warning: Petrol is extremelyflammable, so extra precautionsmust be taken when working onany part of the fuel system. Do

not smoke, or allow open flames or barelight bulbs, near the work area. Also, do notwork in a garage if a natural gas-typeappliance with a pilot light is present. Whileperforming any work on the fuel system,wear safety glasses, and have a suitable(Class B) fire extinguisher on hand. If youspill any fuel on your skin, rinse it offimmediately with soap and water.1 On all engines, a fuel filter is provided in thefuel pump outlet line and is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartmentbulkhead. The filter performs a vital role inkeeping dirt and other foreign matter out ofthe fuel system, and so must be renewed atregular intervals, or whenever you havereason to suspect that it may be clogged.2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).3 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filteroutlet union banjo bolt, then slowly unscrewthe bolt itself or, on later models, the smallbleed screw in the centre of the bolt, to relievethe system pressure (see illustrations). If ableed screw was fitted, tighten it once thepressure has been released.4 On 4-cylinder engines, unscrew the filterinlet and outlet union banjo bolts, and recoverthe four copper washers. On V6 engines,unscrew the inlet union nut and withdraw thepipe from the filter head (see illustration).

Now unscrew the outlet union banjo bolt andrecover the two copper washers.5 Undo the filter bracket retaining nuts orbolts, and remove the filter (see illustration).6 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, but use new copper washers on thebanjo unions.

35 Automatic transmission fluidrenewal 1

1 The automatic transmission fluid should bechanged when the transmission is warm afterthe vehicle has been driven for two or threemiles.2 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit,on vehicle ramps, or jack it up, but make surethat it is level.3 Place a large container beneath thetransmission and thoroughly clean the areaaround the drain plug(s). On 4-cylinder enginemodels, undo the two socket-headed drainplugs - one on the side of the sump pan, andone on the transmission casing (seeillustration). On V6 engine models undo thesingle drain plug on the end of thetransmission casing at the front. Allow thefluid to drain into the container.

Warning: Take care to avoidscalding - the transmission fluidwill be very hot. Remove thedipstick to speed up thedraining operation.

4 When all the fluid has drained (this may takequite some time) clean the drain plug(s) thenrefit, together with new seals and tightensecurely.5 Lower the vehicle to the ground and applythe handbrake securely.6 Place a funnel in the dipstick tube and fillthe transmission with the specified type offluid. Only add about half the specifiedamount before checking the level on thedipstick.7 On 4-cylinder engine models, slowly addmore fluid until the level just shows on thedipstick. Now start the engine with theselector lever in “P” and check the fluid levelon the dipstick immediately (don’t wait for theengine to warm up). Add fluid as necessaryuntil the level is up to the “MAX” mark on the“COLD” side of the blade then refit thedipstick. Recheck the level as described inSection 31, with the engine fully warmed-up,at the earliest opportunity.8 On V6 engine models, slowly add more fluiduntil the level is within the shaded sector onthe dipstick blade. Refit the dipstick, drive thecar until it is fully warmed-up, then recheckthe level as described in Section 31.

1•24 Every 24 000 miles

35.3 Automatic transmission fluid drainplug locations on 4-cylinder engine models

1 Sump pan drain plug2 Transmission casing drain plug3 Sealing washers

34.5 Undo the filter bracket retaining nutsor bolts, and remove the filter

34.4 On V6 engines, unscrew the inletunion nut and withdraw the pipe from the

filter head

34.3b Unscrewing the banjo union bolt onV6 engines

34.3a Fuel filter outlet union banjo bolt(arrowed) on 4-cylinder engines

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36 Brake fluid renewal 3The procedure is similar to that for the

bleeding of the hydraulic system as describedin Chapter 9, except that the brake fluidreservoir should be emptied by syphoning,and allowance should be made for the oldfluid to be removed from the circuit whenbleeding a section of the circuit.

37 Manual transmission oilrenewal 1

1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely onaxle stands making sure that it is level.2 Place a container beneath the drain plug,which is located below the driveshaft innerconstant velocity joint on the same side as thefiller plug (see illustration). Undo the plugusing a square key, and allow the oil to drain.If a key is not available, the 3/8 inch squaredrive end of a socket bar will suffice.3 Refit the plug after draining, using a newsealing washer if necessary, then refill withfresh oil as described in Section 20.

38 Coolant renewal 1Warning: Do not allow antifreezeto come in contact with yourskin or painted surfaces of thevehicle. Flush contaminated

areas immediately with plenty of water.Don’t store new coolant, or leave oldcoolant lying around, where it’s accessibleto children or pets - they’re attracted by itssweet smell. Ingestion of even a smallamount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe upgarage-floor and drip-pan spillsimmediately. Keep antifreeze containerscovered, and repair cooling system leaksas soon as they’re noticed.

Warning: Never remove theexpansion tank filler cap whenthe engine is running, or hasjust been switched off, as the

cooling system will be hot, and theconsequent escaping steam and scaldingcoolant could cause serious injury.

Coolant draining

Warning: Wait until the engine iscold before starting thisprocedure.

1 To drain the system, first remove theexpansion tank filler cap (see Section 3).Move the heater temperature control lever tothe fully hot position.2 If additional working clearance is required,

raise the front of the vehicle and support itsecurely on axle stands.3 Undo the retaining bolts and remove theundertray from beneath the radiator.4 Place a container beneath the left-handside of the radiator. Slacken the hose clip andcarefully ease the bottom hose off the radiatoroutlet. Allow the coolant to drain into thecontainer.5 Additionally, on V6 engines, slacken thetwo cylinder block drain plugs, on the frontand rear sides of the engine, and drain thecylinder block (see illustration). Use twocontainers for this operation, or open the drainplugs one at a time.

System flushing6 With time, the cooling system maygradually lose its efficiency, as the radiatorcore becomes choked with rust, scaledeposits from the water, and other sediment.To minimise this, as well as using only good-quality antifreeze and clean soft water, thesystem should be flushed as followswhenever any part of it is disturbed, and/orwhen the coolant is renewed.7 With the coolant drained, refit the bottomhose and where applicable tighten the drainplugs, then refill the system with fresh water.Refit the expansion tank filler cap, start theengine and warm it up to normal operatingtemperature, then stop it and (after allowing itto cool down completely) drain the systemagain. Repeat as necessary until only cleanwater can be seen to emerge, then refill finallywith the specified coolant mixture.8 If only clean, soft water and good-qualityantifreeze has been used, and the coolant hasbeen renewed at the specified intervals, theabove procedure will be sufficient to keepclean the system for a considerable length oftime. If, however, the system has beenneglected, a more thorough operation will berequired, as follows.9 First drain the coolant, then disconnect theradiator top and bottom hoses. Insert agarden hose into the top hose, and allowwater to circulate through the radiator until itruns clean from the bottom outlet.10 To flush the engine, insert the gardenhose into the thermostat water outlet, andallow water to circulate until it runs clear from

the bottom hose. If, after a reasonable period,the water still does not run clear, the radiatorshould be flushed with a good proprietarycleaning agent.11 In severe cases of contamination,reverse-flushing of the radiator may benecessary. To do this, remove the radiator(Chapter 3), invert it, and insert the gardenhose into the bottom outlet. Continue flushinguntil clear water runs from the top hose outlet.A similar procedure can be used to flush theheater matrix.12 The use of chemical cleaners should benecessary only as a last resort. Normally,regular renewal of the coolant will preventexcessive contamination of the system.

Coolant filling13 With the cooling system drained andflushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unionsare correctly secured, and that the radiatordrain plug is securely tightened. Refit theradiator undershield if it was removed foraccess, and lower the vehicle to the ground.14 Prepare a sufficient quantity of thespecified coolant mixture allow for a surplus,so as to have a reserve supply for topping-up.15 Slacken the cooling system bleed screwwhich, on early 4-cylinder engines, is locatedon the hose connecting the main coolant pipeto the water pump at the rear of the engineand, on V6 engines, just below the throttlebody (see illustrations). Later (1992 onward)4-cylinder engines don’t have a bleed screw.16 Slowly fill the system through the

Every 24 000 miles 1•25

38.15a Cooling system bleed screwlocation (arrowed) on early 4-cylinder

engines . . .

38.5 V6 engine cylinder block drain plug(arrowed)

37.2 Manual transmission oil drain pluglocation (arrowed)

1

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expansion tank until coolant, free from airbubbles, flows from the bleed screw. Tightenthe bleed screw and continue filling until thecoolant level reaches the expansion tank“MAX” level line.17 Start the engine, run it for approximatelytwo minutes, then switch off.18 Slowly unscrew the pressure cap onecomplete turn, wait until all the pressureescapes, then remove the cap. Check that thecoolant just covers the pipe outlet on theseam of the tank, top up if necessary, thenrefit the cap.

19 After refilling, always check carefully allcomponents of the system (but especially anyunions disturbed during draining and flushing)for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze hasa searching action, which will rapidly exposeany weak points in the system.20 Note: If, after draining and refilling thesystem, symptoms of overheating are foundwhich did not occur previously, then the faultis almost certainly due to trapped air at somepoint in the system, causing an air-lock andrestricting the flow of coolant; usually, the airis trapped because the system was refilled tooquickly. In some cases, air-locks can bereleased by tapping or squeezing the varioushoses. If the problem persists, stop the engineand allow it to cool down completely, beforeunscrewing the expansion tank filler cap ordisconnecting hoses to bleed out the trappedair.

Antifreeze mixture21 The cooling system should be filled with awater/ethylene glycol-based antifreezesolution, of a strength which will preventfreezing down to at least -25ºC, or lower if thelocal climate requires it. Antifreeze alsoprotects against corrosion, and increases thecoolant boiling point.22 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling

system should be completely drained,preferably flushed, and all hoses checked forcondition and security. As noted earlier, freshantifreeze will rapidly find any weaknesses inthe system.23 After filling with antifreeze, a label shouldbe attached to the expansion tank, stating thetype and concentration of antifreeze used,and the date installed. Any subsequenttopping-up should be made with the sametype and concentration of antifreeze.24 The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-waterwhich you should use depends on the relativeweather conditions. On all V6 engines, and 4-cylinder engines equipped with airconditioning, the mixture should containapproximately 50% antifreeze. On 4-cylinderengines without air conditioning, approxi-mately a 33% antifreeze mixture isrecommended. Antifreeze concentrationsgreater than 55% for V6 engines or 60% for 4-cylinder engines are not recommended asthe efficiency of the cooling system may beimpaired. Consult the mixture ratio chart onthe antifreeze container before addingcoolant. Hydrometers are available at mostautomotive accessory shops to test thecoolant. Use antifreeze which meets thevehicle manufacturer’s specifications.

1•26 Every 24 000 miles

38.15b . . . and on V6 engines (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 48 000 miles

39 Timing belt renewal 41 As mentioned in Section 32, the

manufacturers have increased the serviceinterval for checking the timing belt conditionand tension on certain engines, and also therenewal interval. On certain engines therenewal interval is every 48 000 miles but,according to the manufacturer’s, the timing

belt on 1990 model year onward V6 enginesshould last for 96 000 miles. Prudent owners may wish to reduce this intervalconsiderably.2 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, or Part B asapplicable for renewal procedures

40 Braking system hydraulicfluid seal check and renewal 3

Refer to the relevant overhaul procedures inChapter 9, for the brake calipers and mastercylinder.

41 Emissions controlequipment check 5

1 Details of the emissions control systemcomponents are given in Chapter 4 Part E,and checking procedures for the positive

crankcase ventilation system is given inSection 33 of this Chapter.2 Checking and testing of the other emissionscontrol systems should be entrusted to aRover dealer.

Every 60 000 miles or 5 years, whichever occurs first

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

2AGeneralEngine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double-overhead camshaftsEngine codes:

“M” series engines:Normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . M16 (20 HD)Turbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . M16 (20 M4G)

“T” series engines:Normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . T16 (20 T4)Turbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . T16 (20 T4) Turbo

Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1994 ccBore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.45 mmStroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89.0 mmCompression ratio:

Normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0:1Turbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)Timing belt tensioner spring free length (“T” series engines) . . . . . . . . . 57.5 to 58.5 mm

Cylinder headMaximum gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm

Camshafts and hydraulic tappetsCamshaft bearing running clearance:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.094 mmUsed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm maximum

Camshaft endfloat (“T” series engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.06 to 0.25 mm

LubricationEngine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1Oil pressure:

Idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 barRunning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.8 bar

Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Camshaft covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Cylinder head, rocker gear and valve assemblies -

cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2CEngine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2CEngine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2CEngine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 18

Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 17General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Timing belt (“M” series) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . 7Timing belt (“T” series) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . 8Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 3

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

Chapter 2 Part A: 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

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Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftCamshaft cover bolts:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48Camshaft housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Timing belt tensioner bolt:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Timing belt idler pulley bolt (“M” series engines):Up to 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 181989 onwards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 36

Cylinder head bolts (“M” series engines):Up to 1989:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 60º, or to 108 Nm (80 lbf ft) whichever comes first

1989 onwards:Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Cylinder head bolts (“T” series engines):With MSPS stamped on bolt head:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

With KX stamped on bolt head:Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Exhaust manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Crankshaft pulley centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63Crankshaft pulley-to-sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Oil pump housing bolts (“M” series engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4Oil pump housing bolts (“T” series engines):

M6 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Oil pump cover plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Sump bolts:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6“T” series engines:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Flywheel bolts:“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

Torque converter driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81Transmission adaptor plate bolts:

“M” series engines:Bolts below crankshaft centre-line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Bolts above crankshaft centre-line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Rear oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Main bearing cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81Crankpin (big-end) bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41Front engine mounting to transmission bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59Front engine mounting bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30Rear engine mounting bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30Right-hand engine mounting through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Right-hand engine mounting to engine bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44Right-hand engine mounting bracket to engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Engine rear tie-bar to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 55Engine rear tie-bar mounting bracket bolts:

M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33M12 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Engine rear tie-bar through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63Longitudinal support member to underbody . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Engine snubber bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

2A•2 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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1 General information

How to use this Chapter1 This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repairprocedures possible while the engine is stillinstalled in the car, and includes only theSpecifications relevant to those procedures.Similar information concerning the V6 engineswill be found in Part B of this Chapter. Sincethese procedures are based on theassumption that the engine is installed in thecar, if the engine has been removed andmounted on a stand, some of the preliminarydismantling steps outlined will not apply.2 Information concerning engine/trans-mission removal and refitting, and engineoverhaul, can be found in Part C of thisChapter, which also includes the Specifi-cations relevant to those procedures.

Engine description

“M” series engine3 The M16 engine fitted to Rover 820 modelsis a water-cooled, four-cylinder, double-overhead camshaft, four-stroke petrol engine,of 1994 cc capacity. The engine was fitted toRover 820 models from 1986 untilapproximately October 1991.4 The combined crankcase and cylinderblock is of cast iron construction, and housesthe pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft.The solid skirt cast aluminium alloy pistonshave two compression rings and an oil controlring, and are retained on the connecting rodsby fully floating gudgeon pins. To reducefrictional drag and piston slap, the gudgeonpin is offset to the thrust side of the piston.The forged steel connecting rods are attachedto the crankshaft by renewable shell type big-end bearings. The crankshaft is carried in fivemain bearings, also of the renewable shelltype. Crankshaft endfloat is controlled bythrust washers which are located on eitherside of the centre main bearing.5 The twin overhead camshafts are located inthe cylinder head, and each is retained inposition by a housing bolted to the cylinderhead upper face. The camshafts aresupported by five bearing journals machineddirectly into the head and housings. Drive tothe camshafts is by an internally-toothedrubber timing belt, from a sprocket on thefront end of the crankshaft. An idler pulley andadjustable tensioner pulley are fitted toeliminate backlash and prevent slackness ofthe belt. The distributor rotor arm is attachedto the rear of the exhaust camshaft, and onearly models, the power steering pump isbelt-driven from a sprocket attached to therear of the inlet camshaft. On later models, thepower steering is located at the front of theengine, and is belt-driven from a sprocket onthe crankshaft.

6 The M16 engine utilizes four valves percylinder, mounted at an inclined angle, andrunning in guides which are pressed into thecylinder head. The valves are of smalldiameter, to improve breathing efficiency andreduce valve mass. Each valve is opened by ahydraulic tappet, acted upon directly by thelobe of the camshaft, and closed by a singlevalve spring.7 Blow-by gases from the crankcase arevented by a positive crankcase ventilationsystem back into the intake air stream forcombustion. The system incorporates an oilseparator, to return oil droplets to the sump,and a diverter valve, which channels thevapour to inlets on either side of the throttlevalve, depending on manifold depression.8 The pressed-steel sump is attached to theunderside of the crankcase, and acts as areservoir for the engine oil. The oil pumpdraws oil through a strainer attached to thepick-up pipe and submerged in the oil. Thepump passes the oil along a short passageand into the full-flow filter, which is screwedonto the pump housing. The freshly filtered oilflows from the filter and enters the maincylinder block oil gallery, which feeds thecrankshaft main bearings. Oil passes from themain bearings, through drillings in thecrankshaft to the big-end bearings.9 As the crankshaft rotates, oil is squirtedfrom a hole in each connecting rod, to splashthe thrust side of the pistons and cylinderbores.10 A drilling from the main oil gallery feedsthe cylinder head gallery, via a restrictorlocated just below the top face of the cylinderblock. The cylinder head contains an oilgallery on each side, with drillings to lubricateeach camshaft journal and hydraulic tappetbore. The oil then drains back into the sumpvia large drillings in the cylinder head andcylinder block.11 On turbocharged engines, a take-off pipefrom the main oil gallery feeds theturbocharger shaft bearings and then returnsto the sump via an oil return pipe.12 A pressure relief valve is incorporated inthe oil pump housing, to maintain the oilpressure within specified limits.

“T” series engine13 The T16 engine fitted to later Rover 820and Vitesse models is a development of the“M” series unit and is similar in most areas.The engine was fitted to Rover 820 modelsfrom approximately October 1991 and iscurrently still in production.14 The main differences between the twounits is in the following areas.15 The timing belt only drives the twocamshafts; the water pump now being situatedexternally on the engine, behind the powersteering pump, and driven (in conjunction withthe power steering pump) by the auxiliary drivebelt. The timing belt incorporates an automatictensioner to maintain correct timing belttension for virtually the life of the belt.

16 The semi-floating pistons are retained onthe connecting rods by interference fitgudgeon pins.17 The engine mountings have been revisedto improve vibration resistance and powerunit stability.18 Other detail modifications have beenincorporated, mainly in the area of ancillarycomponent attachments, and these will becovered in greater detail where procedures inthis Chapter are likely to be affected.

2 Repair operations possiblewith the engine in the vehicle

The following operations can be carried outwithout having to remove the engine from thecar:(a) Compression pressure - testing.(b) Removal and refitting of the timing belt.(c) Removal and refitting of the camshaft and

tappets.(d) Removal and refitting of the cylinder

head.(e) Removal and refitting of the sump.(f) Removal and refitting of the big-end

bearings.*(g) Removal and refitting of the piston and

connecting rod assemblies.*(h) Removal and refitting of the oil pump.(i) Removal and refitting of the engine

mountings.(j) Removal and refitting of the flywheel or

driveplate (after first removing thetransmission).

* In extreme cases caused by a lack ofnecessary equipment, repair or renewal ofpiston rings, pistons, connecting rods andbig-end bearings is possible with the engine inthe vehicle. However, this practice is notrecommended, because of the cleaning andpreparation work that must be done to thecomponents involved, and because of theamount of preliminary dismantling workrequired - these operations are thereforecovered in Part C of this Chapter.

3 Compression test -description and interpretation 2

1 When engine performance is down, or ifmisfiring occurs which cannot be attributed tothe ignition or fuel systems, a compressiontest can provide diagnostic clues as to theengine’s condition. If the test is performedregularly, it can give warning of trouble beforeany other symptoms become apparent.2 The engine must be fully warmed-up tonormal operating temperature, the oil levelmust be correct, the battery must be fullycharged, and the spark plugs must beremoved. The aid of an assistant will also berequired.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•3

2A

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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3 Disable the ignition system bydisconnecting the LT wiring connectors fromthe ignition coil. Refer to Chapter 5 for furtherinformation.4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1cylinder spark plug hole - the type of testerwhich screws into the plug thread is to bepreferred.5 Arrange for an assistant to hold theaccelerator pedal fully depressed to the floorwhile at the same time cranking the engineover several times on the starter motor.Observe the compression gauge reading. Thecompression will build up fairly quickly in ahealthy engine. Low compression on the firststroke, followed by gradually increasingpressure on successive strokes indicatesworn piston rings. A low compression on thefirst stroke which does not rise on successivestrokes, indicates leaking valves or a blownhead gasket (a cracked cylinder head couldalso be the cause). Deposits on the undersideof the valve heads can also cause lowcompression. Record the highest gaugereading obtained, then repeat the procedurefor the remaining cylinders.6 Due to the variety of testers available, andthe fluctuation in starter motor speed whencranking the engine, different readings areoften obtained when carrying out thecompression test. However, the mostimportant factor is that the compressionpressures are uniform in all cylinders, and thatis what this test is mainly concerned with.7 Add some engine oil (about three squirts

from a plunger type oil can) to each cylinderthrough the spark plug holes and repeat thetest.8 If the compression increases after the oil isadded it is indicative that the piston rings aredefinitely worn. If the compression does notincrease significantly, the leakage is occurringat the valves or the head gasket. Leakagepast the valves may be caused by burnedvalve seats and/or faces or warped, crackedor bent valves.9 If two adjacent cylinders have equally lowcompressions, it is most likely that the headgasket has blown between them. Theappearance of coolant in the combustionchambers or crankcase would verify thiscondition.10 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lowerthan the other, and the engine has a roughidle, a worn lobe on the camshaft could be thecause.11 On completion of the checks, refit thespark plugs and reconnect the LT wiring atthe ignition coil.

4 Camshaft covers - removal and refitting 1

“M” series enginesRemoval1 Detach the breather hose from the rear ofthe inlet camshaft cover.2 On cars with multi-point fuel injection,release the plastic covers then undo the twobolts securing the plenum chamber supportbrackets to the plenum chamber.3 Undo the two bolts and lift off the sparkplug cover from the centre of the cylinderhead. Note that the spark plug HT leadgrommet engages with the end of the cover,and on certain models, an accelerator cablesupport bracket is also retained by the right-hand cover bolt.4 Undo the ten bolts securing each camshaftcover to its respective camshaft housing, andlift off the two covers (see illustrations).5 Withdraw the baffle plates, taking care notto damage the sealing edges on both sides ofthe plates (see illustration).

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renew thebaffle plates if their sealing edges aredamaged. Tighten the bolts to the specifiedtorque.

“T” series engines

Removal7 Detach the breather hoses from the sideand rear of the inlet camshaft cover.8 Undo the two bolts securing the plenumchamber support brackets to the plenumchamber.9 Undo the four screws and lift off the sparkplug cover between the two camshaft covers.10 Working from the centre outwardsslacken then remove the ten bolts (inletcamshaft cover), or 12 bolts (exhaustcamshaft cover) and lift off the two covers.11 Withdraw the baffle plates, taking care notto damage the sealing edges on both sides ofthe plates.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renewthe baffle plates if their sealing edges aredamaged. Tighten the cover bolts to thespecified torque in the sequence shown (seeillustration).

5 Inlet manifold - removal and refitting 1

Warning: Petrol is extremelyflammable, so take extraprecautions when disconnectingany part of the fuel system.

Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames orbare light bulbs in or near the work area.Don’t work in a garage where a naturalgas appliance (such as a clothes dryer orwater heater) is installed. If you spill petrolon your skin, rinse it off immediately. Havea fire extinguisher rated for petrol fireshandy, and know how to use it.

2A•4 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

4.12 Camshaft cover tightening sequencefor “T” series engines

4.5 Remove the baffle plates over thecamshafts

4.4b . . . and remove the covers

4.4a Undo the camshaft cover retainingbolts . . .

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Single-point fuel injectionengines

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Refer to Chapter 4A, and remove the aircleaner air box.3 Relieve the fuel system pressure asdescribed in Chapter 4A, Section 5.4 Release the hose clips and disconnect thetwo fuel hoses from the fuel pipes (seeillustration).5 Refer to Chapter 4A, Section 12, andremove the throttle body.6 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the coolingsystem.7 Undo the brake servo banjo hose union atthe manifold, and recover the two copperwashers (see illustration).8 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect thecoolant hose from the right-hand end of themanifold (see illustration).9 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the left-hand end of the manifold, after noting theirrespective positions for reassembly.10 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect theremaining coolant hose from the manifold.11 Undo the bolt securing the manifold to thesupport bracket under the coolant hoseoutlet.12 Undo the bolt securing the upper end ofthe stay bar to the manifold.13 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front ofthe car and support it on axle stands.

14 Undo the manifold stay bar lowerretaining bolt and remove the stay (seeillustration).15 Release the clip and disconnect thebreather hose from the oil separator (seeillustration).16 Disconnect the breather hose from thelower end of the oil separator at the cylinderblock, and at the sump outlet.17 Disconnect the lead at the oil pressureswitch and disconnect the pressuretransducer lead at the wiring connector.18 Unscrew the pipe union nut at the oilpressure switch adaptor.19 Unscrew the bolt securing the oil pressureswitch adaptor and oil separator to thecylinder block and remove the adaptor and oilseparator.20 Disconnect the wiring plug at the knocksensor on the cylinder block, and the twoleads at the manifold heater temperaturesensor under the manifold (see illustration).Move the wiring harness clear of the manifold.21 Slacken the nine nuts and bolts securingthe manifold to the cylinder head.22 Remove all the bolts followed by the twonuts, then withdraw the manifold off the studsand remove it from the engine. Recover themanifold gasket.23 Clean the manifold and cylinder headmating faces, and obtain a new gasket if thesealing lips of the original are damaged.

Refitting24 Refitting is a reversal of removal; tighten

the manifold nuts and bolts in the sequenceshown, to the specified torque (seeillustration).

Multi-point fuel injectionengines

Removal25 Remove the fuel injectors and fuel rail asdescribed in Section 12 of either Chapter 4B,for “M” series, or Chapter 4C for “T” series.26 Release the clip and disconnect thebreather hose from the oil separator.27 Disconnect the breather hose from thelower end of the oil separator and the sumpoutlet.28 Disconnect the wires at the oil pressureswitch, oil pressure transducer and knocksensor.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•5

5.8 Disconnect the coolant hose from theright-hand end of the manifold

5.7 Undo the brake servo banjo hoseunion at the manifold

5.4 Release the hose clips and disconnectthe two hoses from the fuel pipes

5.24 Inlet manifold nut and bolt tighteningsequence

5.14 Undo the manifold stay bar lowerretaining bolt (arrowed)

5.20 Disconnect the leads at the manifoldheater temperature sensor

5.15 Disconnect the breather hose (A)from the oil separator (B)

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29 Slacken the nine nuts and bolts securingthe manifold to the cylinder head.30 Remove all the bolts, followed by the twonuts, then withdraw the manifold off the studsand remove it from the engine. Recover themanifold gasket.31 Clean the manifold and cylinder headmating faces, and obtain a new gasket if thesealing lips of the original are damaged.

Refitting32 Refitting is a reversal of removal; tightenthe manifold nuts and bolts in the sequenceshown, to the specified torque (seeillustration 5.24).

6 Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting 1

Note: Never work on or near a hot exhaustsystem and in particular, the catalyticconverter (where fitted).

Single-point fuel injectionengines

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Refer to Chapter 4A, Section 2, and removethe necessary air cleaner components to

provide access to the front and side of theengine.3 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.4 Remove the dipstick from the dipstick tube.5 Remove the distributor cap and place it toone side.6 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front ofthe car and support it on axle stands.7 Undo the four bolts securing the exhaustfront pipe flange to the manifold. Separate theflange and recover the gasket.8 Undo the bolts on both sides securing thetwo halves of the manifold stove together, andremove the outer half (see illustrations).9 Undo the bolt securing the heater bypasspipe to the cylinder head and to the maincoolant pipe support bracket (seeillustrations).10 Slacken the clip securing the bypass pipeconnecting hose to the thermostat housing.11 Undo the five nuts and bolts securing themanifold to the cylinder head, noting that theupper nut also secures the bypass pipebracket (see illustration).12 Release the connecting hose from thethermostat housing, and withdraw the bypasspipe from the manifold stud.13 Remove the manifold from the cylinderhead, followed by the inner half of the stoveand the manifold gasket.14 Clean the manifold and cylinder headmating faces, and obtain a new gasket if theoriginal is damaged.

Refitting15 Refitting is a reversal of removal; tightenthe manifold nuts and bolts starting with theupper two, then the lower centre, then the twoouter, to the specified torque. Make sure thatthe inner half of the stove is in position beforefitting the manifold.

Multi-point fuel injectionengines

Normally-aspirated engines16 Refer to the procedures described abovefor single-point fuel injection engines, butignore the instructions to remove the manifoldstove, which is not fitted to models with multi-point fuel injection.

Turbocharged engines17 Refer to Chapter 4B or 4C as applicableand remove the turbocharger.18 Refer to the procedures described abovefor single-point fuel injection engines, butignore the instructions to remove the manifoldstove, which is not fitted to models with multi-point fuel injection.

7 Timing belt (“M” series) -removal, refitting andadjustment 4

Note: Accurate adjustment of the timing beltentails the use of a tension checking gaugewhich is a Rover special tool. An approximatesetting can be achieved using the methoddescribed in this Section, but the tensionshould be checked by a Rover dealer oncompletion.Note: On early “M” series engines thecrankshaft pulley and timing belt sprocket area one-piece assembly secured by a singlecentre bolt. On later “M” series engines (with afront mounted power steering pump), thepulley and sprocket are two separatecomponents secured by the centre retainingbolt and four additional bolts. As thisdifference significantly affects the timing beltprocedures, identify the type being worked onbefore proceeding.

2A•6 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

6.11 Undo the manifold nuts and bolts,noting that the upper nut also secures the

bypass pipe bracket

6.9b . . . and to the main coolant pipebracket (arrowed)

6.9a Undo the bolt securing the bypasspipe to the cylinder head (arrowed) . . .

6.8b . . . and remove the stove outer half6.8a Undo the bolts securing the twohalves of the manifold stove . . .

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Early “M” series engines

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Slacken the right-hand front wheel nuts,jack up the front of the car and support it onaxle stands. Remove the roadwheel.3 Undo the three bolts and remove theaccess panel under the wheelarch.4 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the auxiliarydrivebelt.5 Position a jack and interposed block ofwood under the sump, and just take theweight of the engine.6 Undo the bolts securing the power steeringpipe support brackets, and move the pipes

slightly to gain access to the right-handengine mounting (see illustration).7 Undo the engine mounting through-bolt,and recover the special nut. Note that theforked end of the nut plate locates over a studon the body bracket (see illustration).8 Undo the two bolts securing the enginemounting to its mounting bracket, and removethe mounting.9 Raise the engine slightly, then undo thethree bolts and lift off the timing belt uppercover (see illustration).10 Undo the four bolts and remove the timingbelt lower cover (see illustration).11 Using a socket or spanner on thecrankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft in ananti-clockwise direction until the timing

notches on the camshaft sprockets are facingeach other and aligned horizontally (seeillustrations). The notch on the crankshaftpulley should also be aligned with the edge ofthe metal bracket which forms the timing beltbottom cover (see illustration). In thisposition, the crankshaft is at 90º BTDC, withNo 1 piston on its compression stroke.12 If required, the crankshaft can be locked inthis position, by inserting a dowel rod or drillthrough the hole in the transmission adaptorplate, near to the lower edge of the cylinderblock on the front-facing side of the engine (seeillustration). The dowel or drill will then engagewith a corresponding hole in the flywheel.13 Undo the three bolts and remove thetiming belt bottom cover (see illustration).

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•7

7.9 Timing belt upper cover retaining bolts(arrowed)

7.7 Undo the engine right-hand mountingthrough-bolt

7.6 Undo the bolts securing the powersteering pipe support brackets (arrowed)

7.13 Removing the timing belt bottomcover

7.12 Lock the crankshaft by inserting adowel rod or drill (1) through the hole in

the transmission adaptor plate

7.11c Crankshaft pulley timing notch(arrowed) aligned with timing belt bottom

cover

7.11b . . . then check their horizontalalignment with a straight edge

7.11a Turn the crankshaft to align thesprocket timing marks (arrowed) . . .

7.10 Timing belt lower cover retainingbolts (arrowed)

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14 Using an Allen key, undo the timing belttensioner retaining bolt, and remove thetensioner (see illustration).15 Slip the belt off the sprockets, andremove it from the engine.16 If the timing belt is to be re-used, mark itsrunning direction with an arrow in chalk, andstore it on its edge while it is off the engine.17 Check the belt for any sign of cracks orsplits, particularly around the roots of theteeth. Renew the belt if wear is obvious, ifthere are signs of oil contamination, or if thebelt has exceeded its service interval (seeChapter 1). Also renew the sprockets if theyshow any signs of wear or chipping of theteeth.18 Check the tensioner and sprockets asdescribed in Section 9.19 Before refitting, check that the crankshaftis still at the 90º BTDC position, and that thetiming marks on the two sprockets are stillaligned.

Refitting and adjustment20 Engage the timing belt with the teeth ofthe crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the beltvertically upright on its straight, right-handrun. Keep it taut, and engage it over theexhaust camshaft sprocket, then the inletcamshaft sprocket.21 Check that none of the sprockets havemoved, then feed the belt around the idlerpulley and engage it with the teeth of thewater pump sprocket.22 Fit the timing belt tensioner and securewith the retaining bolt, tightened finger-tightonly at this stage.23 Engage an Allen key with the hexagonaladjusting hole in the tensioner, and turn thetensioner body until there is moderate tensionon the belt (see illustration). Hold thetensioner in this position, and tighten theretaining bolt.24 Remove the locking pin (if used) from thetransmission adaptor plate, and turn thecrankshaft one complete turn clockwise,followed by one complete turn anti-clockwise,and re-align the timing marks.25 Check that it is just possible to deflect thebelt, using moderate hand pressure, by 19.0 mm at a point midway between thecrankshaft and exhaust camshaft sprockets.

Re-adjust the tension if necessary byslackening the tensioner retaining bolt, andrepositioning the tensioner body with the Allenkey. Recheck the tension again after turningthe crankshaft one turn clockwise, then oneturn anti-clockwise. It must be emphasisedthat this is only an approximate setting, andthe tension should be checked by a dealer,using the Rover tension gauge, at the earliestopportunity.26 Refit the timing belt bottom cover, turn thecrankshaft to align the pulley timing mark withthe edge of the bottom cover, and make afinal check that the camshaft sprocket timingmarks are still aligned.27 Refit the timing belt upper and lowercovers.28 Refit the engine mounting to its bracket,lower the engine and secure the mounting tothe body with the through-bolt and specialnut.29 Refer to Chapter 1 and refit the auxiliarydrivebelt.30 Refit the power steering pipe supportbrackets, the wheelarch access panel, andthe roadwheel.31 Lower the car to the ground, tighten thewheel nuts fully, and reconnect the battery.

Later “M” series engines

Removal32 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to9 above.33 Undo the four bolts and remove the timingbelt centre cover.34 Using a socket or spanner on thecrankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft in an anti-clockwise direction until the notches on thecamshaft sprockets are facing each other andaligned horizontally. Insert a dowel rod or drillthrough the hole in the transmission adaptorplate, near to the lower edge of the cylinderblock on the front-facing side of the engine(see illustration 7.12). The dowel or drill willthen engage with a corresponding hole in theflywheel. If the dowel won’t engage, turn thecrankshaft through 180º and try again. With thedowel rod engaged and the camshaft notchesaligned, the crankshaft is at 90º BTDC, with No 1 piston on its compression stroke.Temporarily remove the dowel rod.

35 Refer to Chapter 5, and remove the startermotor.36 Using a socket and long handle, slackenthe crankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt.Lock the flywheel ring gear, through thestarter motor aperture, using a largescrewdriver or similar tool to prevent thecrankshaft rotating as the pulley bolt isundone. This operation will probably havemoved the timing marks on the camshafts outof alignment, so re-align them, and fit thecrankshaft dowel rod as described previously.37 Remove the centre retaining bolt from thecrankshaft pulley, then unscrew the fouradditional pulley bolts and remove the pulley.38 Undo the bolts and remove the timing beltbottom cover.39 Using an Allen key, undo the timing belttensioner retaining bolt, and remove the ten-sioner.40 Slip the belt off the sprockets, andremove it from the engine.41 Check the timing belt, sprockets andtensioner as described in paragraphs 16 to18.42 Before refitting, check that the crankshaftis still at the 90º BTDC position, and that thetiming marks on the two sprockets are stillaligned.

Refitting and adjustment43 Engage the timing belt with the teeth ofthe crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the beltvertically upright on its straight, right-handrun. Keep it taut, and engage it over theexhaust camshaft sprocket, then the inletcamshaft sprocket.44 Check that none of the sprockets havemoved, then feed the belt around the idlerpulley and engage it with the teeth of thewater pump sprocket.45 Fit the timing belt tensioner and securewith the retaining bolt, tightened finger-tightonly at this stage.46 Refit the timing belt bottom cover.47 Remove the dowel rod from thecrankshaft.48 Refit the crankshaft pulley and securewith the centre bolt and four additional bolts,tightened to the specified torque. Hold thecrankshaft using the same procedure as forremoval to tighten the centre bolt.49 Engage an Allen key with the hexagonaladjusting hole in the tensioner, and turn thetensioner body until there is moderate tensionon the belt. Hold the tensioner in this position,and tighten the retaining bolt.50 Turn the crankshaft one complete turnclockwise, followed by one complete turnanti-clockwise, and re-align the timing marks.51 Check that it is just possible to deflect thebelt, using moderate hand pressure, by 19.0 mm at a point midway between thecrankshaft and exhaust camshaft sprockets.Re-adjust the tension if necessary byslackening the tensioner retaining bolt, andrepositioning the tensioner body with the Allenkey. Recheck the tension again after turning

2A•8 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

7.23 Tensioner hexagonal adjusting hole(arrowed)

7.14 Removing the timing belt tensioner

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the crankshaft one turn clockwise, then oneturn anti-clockwise. It must be emphasisedthat this is only an approximate setting, andthe tension should be checked by a dealer,using the Rover tension gauge, at the earliestopportunity.52 The remainder of refitting is a reversal ofremoval.

8 Timing belt (“T” series) -removal, refitting andadjustment

4Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Slacken the right-hand front wheel nuts,jack up the front of the car and support it onaxle stands. Remove the roadwheel.3 Undo the three bolts and remove theaccess panel under the wheelarch.4 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the auxiliarydrivebelt.5 Position a jack and interposed block ofwood under the sump, and just take theweight of the engine.6 Undo the bolts securing the power steeringpipe support brackets, and move the pipesslightly to gain access to the right-handengine mounting.7 Undo the engine mounting through-bolt,and recover the special nut. Note that theforked end of the nut plate locates over a studon the body bracket.8 Undo the two bolts securing the enginemounting to its mounting bracket, and removethe mounting.9 Raise the engine slightly, then undo the fivebolts and lift off the timing belt upper cover(see illustration).10 Undo the remaining five bolts and removethe timing belt centre cover.11 Using a socket or spanner on thecrankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft in ananti-clockwise direction until the timingnotches on the camshaft sprockets are facingeach other and aligned horizontally. Insert adowel rod or drill through the hole in thetransmission adaptor plate, near to the loweredge of the cylinder block on the front-facingside of the engine (see illustration 7.12). Thedowel or drill will then engage with acorresponding hole in the flywheel. If thedowel won’t engage, turn the crankshaftthrough 180º and try again.12 With the dowel rod engaged and thecamshaft notches aligned, the crankshaft is at90º BTDC, with No 1 piston on itscompression stroke. Temporarily remove thedowel rod.13 Refer to Chapter 5, and remove the startermotor.14 Using a socket and long handle, slackenthe crankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt.Lock the flywheel ring gear, through thestarter motor aperture, using a large

screwdriver or similar tool to prevent thecrankshaft rotating as the pulley bolt isundone. This operation will probably havemoved the timing marks on the camshafts outof alignment, so re-align them, and fit thecrankshaft dowel rod as described previously.15 Remove the centre retaining bolt from thecrankshaft pulley, then unscrew the fouradditional pulley bolts and remove the pulley.16 Undo the three bolts and remove thetiming belt bottom cover.17 Slacken the timing belt tensioner centrebolt, move the tensioner away from the belt asfar as it will go, then re-tighten the tensionerbolt.18 Slip the belt off the sprockets, andremove it from the engine.19 If the timing belt is to be re-used, mark itsrunning direction with an arrow in chalk, andstore it on its edge while it is off the engine.20 Check the tensioner and sprockets asdescribed in Section 9.

Refitting and adjustment21 Before refitting the belt, check that thecrankshaft is still at the 90º BTDC position(dowel rod engaged) and that the timingmarks on the two sprockets are still aligned.

22 Engage the timing belt with the teeth ofthe crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the beltvertically upright on its straight, right-handrun. Keep it taut, and engage it over theexhaust camshaft sprocket, then the inletcamshaft sprocket.23 Check that none of the sprockets havemoved, then feed the belt around thetensioner.24 Refit the timing belt bottom cover.25 Remove the dowel rod from thecrankshaft.26 Refit the crankshaft pulley and securewith the centre bolt and four additional bolts,tightened to the specified torque. Hold thecrankshaft using the same procedure as forremoval to tighten the centre bolt.27 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retainingbolt slightly and allow the tensioner toautomatically tension the belt.28 Using a torque wrench applied to the inletcamshaft sprocket retaining bolt, apply a loadof 40 Nm, in an anti-clockwise direction, totake up all the slack in the timing belt. Holdthis load, and tighten the tensioner retainingbolt to the specified torque.29 The remainder of refitting is a reversal ofremoval.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•9

8.9 Timing belt components as fitted to “T” series engines

1 Upper cover bolt2 Upper cover3 Camshaft sprocket bolt4 Washer5 Timing belt6 Inlet camshaft sprocket7 Exhaust camshaft sprocket8 Backplate bolt

9 Upper backplate10 Lower backplate11 Spring sleeve12 Anchorage bolt13 Tensioner spring14 Timing belt tensioner15 Tensioner bolt

16 Crankshaft sprocket17 Bottom cover18 Bottom cover bolt19 Centre cover20 Crankshaft pulley21 Pulley-to-sprocket bolts22 Pulley centre bolt

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9 Timing belt tensioner andsprockets - removal,inspection and refitting

4Tensioner

Removal1 Remove the timing belt as described inSections 7, or 8, according to engine type.2 On the “M” series engine, the tensioner willhave been removed together with the timingbelt; proceed to paragraph 6.3 On the “T” series engine, slacken thetensioner retaining bolt and allow thetensioner to move fully under the action of thespring.4 Unhook the tensioner spring from theanchorage stud.5 Remove the tensioner retaining bolt, lift offthe tensioner and remove the spring.

Inspection6 Spin the tensioner, and ensure that there isno roughness or harshness in the bearing.Also check that the endfloat is not excessiveand there is no sign of free play. Check thesurface of the tensioner for any signs ofroughness, nicks or scoring which maydamage the timing belt. Renew the tensionerif worn.7 On “T” series engines, measure the freelength of the tensioner spring. If the freelength is greater than that specified, renew thespring.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Camshaft sprockets

Removal9 Remove the timing belt as described inSections 7, or 8, according to engine type.10 Undo the retaining bolt securing eachsprocket to its respective camshaft. Toprevent the sprockets turning as the bolts areundone, either insert a large screwdriverthrough one of the sprocket holes and engageit with one of the backplate bolts behind, ormake up a holding tool from scrap metal,

which is of a scissor shape, with a bolts ateach end to engage with the holes in thesprocket.11 Withdraw the two sprockets from thecamshafts, noting that they are not identical,and should be marked INLET (or IN) andEXHAUST on their front faces to avoidconfusion. If no marks are visible, make yourown to identify each sprocket (seeillustration).

Inspection12 Check the condition of the sprockets,inspecting carefully for any wear grooves,pitting or scoring around the teeth, or anywear ridges which might cause damage to thetiming belt. Make sure that the dowels are notworn and are not a loose fit in the camshaft orsprocket holes.

Refitting13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat the sprockets are fitted to their correctcamshafts and tighten the retaining bolt to thespecified torque.

Crankshaft sprocket

Removal14 Remove the timing belt as described inSections 7, or 8, according to engine type.15 Slide the sprocket off the front of thecrankshaft (“T” series engines).

Inspection16 Check the condition of the sprocket,inspecting carefully for any wear grooves,pitting or scoring around the teeth, or anywear ridges which might cause damage to thetiming belt. Examine the Woodruff key and itsgroove and make sure it is a tight fit.

Refitting17 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

10 Camshaft oil seals - renewal 4

Note: The use of an oil seal extractor whichscrews into the seal inside circumference is

preferable for this operation. These areavailable at most accessory shops and canoften be hired from tool hire outlets. In theabsence of this type of tool, an alternative (butless satisfactory) method of removal isdescribed in the following procedure.

Front oil seals1 Remove the camshaft sprockets asdescribed in the previous Section.2 On early “M” series engines undo theretaining bolt using an Allen key, and removethe timing belt idler pulley. Recover the spacerbehind the pulley (see illustration).3 Undo the bolts and remove the backplatefrom the cylinder head (see illustration).4 The oil seals are now accessible forremoval. Punch or drill two small holesopposite each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each hole andpull on the screws with pliers to extract theseal.5 Check that the housing is clean beforefitting the new seal. Lubricate the lips of theseal and the running faces of the camshaftwith clean engine oil, then carefully locate theseal over the camshaft and drive it squarelyinto position using a tube or a socket. Takegreat care not to turn over the lips of the sealas it is being fitted. An alternative method offitting is to draw it squarely into position usingthe sprocket bolt and a distance piece.6 With the seal fully inserted in its housing,refit the components removed for access thenrefit the camshaft sprockets as described inthe previous Section.

Rear oil seals

Exhaust camshaft oil seal7 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 andremove the air cleaner assembly and intaketrunking components as necessary foraccess.8 Undo the two retaining bolts, withdraw thedistributor cap, and place it to one side.9 Undo the retaining Allen screw, and removethe distributor rotor arm.10 Undo the two screws and remove the

2A•10 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

10.3 Undo the bolts (arrowed) and removethe backplate

10.2 Remove the timing belt idler pulleyand recover the spacer (arrowed)

9.11 The camshaft sprockets are markedINLET (or IN) and EXHAUST on their front

faces (arrowed)

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distributor adaptor plate from the cylinderhead (see illustration).11 Punch or drill two small holes oppositeeach other in the seal. Screw a self-tappingscrew into each, and pull on the screws withpliers to extract the seal.12 Clean the seal location in the cylinderhead; polish off any burrs or raised edges,which may have caused the seal to fail in thefirst place.13 Lubricate the lips of the new seal withclean engine oil and carefully locate the sealover the camshaft and into the cylinder head.14 Using a tubular drift which bears on thehard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal fullyinto the head until it contact the inner land.15 With the seal fully inserted in its housing,refit the components removed for access thenrefit the camshaft sprockets as described inthe previous Section.

Inlet camshaft oil seal16 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 andremove the air cleaner assembly and intaketrunking components as necessary foraccess.17 On cars with multi-point fuel injection,undo the throttle housing retaining nuts,withdraw the housing from the studs andmove it aside. Undo the two bolts and removethe blanking plate or camshaft sensor(turbocharged engines) from the cylinder head(see illustration).18 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted powersteering pump, remove the auxiliary drivebelt

as described in Chapter 1, remove thecamshaft pulley, then withdraw the spacerbehind the pulley. Undo the two nuts and twobolts, and remove the power steering pulleybackplate.19 The seal can now be removed and refittedas described in paragraphs 11 to 15 above.

11 Camshafts and hydraulictappets - removal, inspectionand refitting

4Removal1 Remove the timing belt as described in theSections 7 or 8, according to engine type.2 Remove the camshaft sprockets asdescribed in Section 9.3 On early “M” series engines, undo the boltsecuring the timing belt idler pulley to thecylinder head using an Allen key (seeillustration). Withdraw the pulley, noting thatthere is a spacing washer fitted between thepulley and cylinder head backplate.4 Undo the four bolts and remove thecylinder head backplate.5 Undo the two retaining bolts, withdraw thedistributor cap, and place it to one side.6 Undo the retaining Allen screw, and removethe distributor rotor arm.7 Undo the two screws and remove thedistributor adaptor plate from the cylinderhead.8 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted power

steering pump driven off the inlet camshaft,remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described inChapter 1, remove the camshaft pulley thenwithdraw the spacer behind the pulley. Undothe two nuts and two bolts, and remove thepower steering pulley backplate.9 On cars fitted with a front-mounted powersteering pump, undo the two bolts andremove the blanking plate or camshaft sensor(turbocharged engines) from the cylinderhead.10 Remove the camshaft covers asdescribed in Section 4.11 Slacken the ten bolts securing eachcamshaft housing to the cylinder head, thenremove all the bolts except two on eachhousing at diagonally opposite corners. Makesure that the heads of the bolts left in positionare at least 5.0 mm (0.2 in) clear of thehousing face. Note that two types of retainingbolts are used to secure the camshafthousings. The three bolts on the inner edge ofeach housing nearest to the spark plugs areplain bolts, while all the rest are patch bolts.Patch bolts are of the micro-encapsulatedtype, having their threads fitted with alocking/sealing compound. Obtain new plainand patch bolts prior to reassembly.12 Using a plastic or hide mallet, carefully tapup each housing to release it from the locatingdowels. When the housings are free, removethe remaining bolts and lift off the twohousings (see illustration).13 Carefully lift out the camshafts, andremove the oil seals at each end. Identify eachcamshaft, inlet or exhaust, with a label afterremoval.14 Have a box ready with sixteen internalcompartments, marked Inlet 1 to 8, andExhaust 1 to 8, or mark a sheet of card in asimilar way.15 Lift out each tappet in turn, and place itupside down in its respective position in thebox or on the card (see illustration). If thetappets are difficult to remove by hand, usethe rubber sucker end of a valve grinding toolto lift them out.16 Prior to reassembly, obtain new camshaftoil seals, a complete set of camshaft housingretaining bolts, and a tube of Loctite seal-ant 574.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•11

11.3 Undo the timing belt idler pulley bolt

10.17 Undo the two bolts (arrowed) andremove the blanking plate

10.10 Undo the two screws (arrowed) andremove the distributor adaptor plate

11.15 Lift out the tappets and keep themin order

11.12 Removing the exhaust camshafthousing

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Inspection17 Clean and inspect the variouscomponents removed for signs of excessivewear.18 Examine the camshaft bearing journalsand lobes for damage or wear. If evident, anew camshaft must be fitted or one that hasbeen renovated by a company specialising inexchange components.19 The camshaft bearing bore diameters inthe cylinder head should be measured andchecked against the tolerances specified. Agauge will be required for this but if notavailable, check for excessive movementbetween the camshaft journals and thebearings. Alternatively, the Plastigagemethod, described in Part C of this Chapter,for main and big-end bearing runningclearance checks, can be used. If thebearings are found to be unacceptably worn,either a new camshaft or a new cylinder headis required as the bearings are machineddirectly in the head.20 It is seldom that the hydraulic tappets arebadly worn in the cylinder head bores butagain, if the tappets are scored, or the boresare found to be worn beyond an acceptablelevel, either the tappet(s) or the completecylinder head must be renewed.21 If the contact surface of the cam lobesshow signs of depression or grooving, notethat they cannot be renovated by grinding asthe hardened surface will be removed and theoverall length of the tappet(s) will be reduced.The self-adjustment point of the tappet will beexceeded as a result, so that the valveadjustment will be affected and they will thenbe noisy in operation. Therefore, renewal of the camshaft is the only remedy in thiscase.

Refitting22 Remove all traces of sealant from thecamshaft housing retaining bolt holes in the

cylinder head, using an M8 x 1.25 mm tap.Alternatively, use one of the old bolts with twofile grooves cut into its threads. Also ensurethat there is no oil remaining at the bottom ofthe bolt holes.23 Thoroughly lubricate the tappet bores inthe cylinder head, and refit the tappets in theiroriginal positions.24 Lubricate the camshaft journals andlobes, then place the camshafts in position.Temporarily place the sprockets over theends of the camshafts, and position thecamshafts in the cylinder head so that thesprocket timing marks are horizontal andtowards each other.25 Lubricate the sealing lips of the new oilseals, carefully ease them over the camshaftjournals, and position them against theshoulder in the cylinder head (see illustration).26 Apply a thin bead of Loctite sealant 574 tothe camshaft housing-to-cylinder head matingface, then place both housings in position onthe cylinder head (see illustration).27 Fit new housing retaining bolts (3 plainbolts and 7 patch bolts for each housing) andtighten them in the order shown (seeillustration). Note the locations of the twotypes of bolt.

28 The remainder of refitting is a reversal ofremoval. When the engine is finally started, beprepared for a considerable rattle from thetappets until they completely fill with oil. Thismay take a few minutes, and will be morepronounced if any of the tappets have beenrenewed.

12 Cylinder head - removal and refitting 4

Warning: Petrol is extremelyflammable, so take extraprecautions when disconnectingany part of the fuel system.

Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames orbare light bulbs in or near the work area.Don’t work in a garage where a naturalgas appliance (such as a clothes dryer orwater heater) is installed. If you spill petrolon your skin, rinse it off immediately. Havea fire extinguisher rated for petrol fireshandy, and know how to use it.

Single-point fuel injectionenginesRemoval1 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.2 Remove the air cleaner, air box and intaketrunking as described in Chapter 4A.3 Remove the timing belt as described inSection 7 or 8, according to engine type.4 Remove the camshaft covers as describedin Section 4.5 Undo the nuts and separate the exhaustfront pipe from the manifold flange. Recoverthe gasket.6 Slacken the clips and disconnect theradiator top hose, and the expansion tankhose at the thermostat housing.7 Disconnect the wiring multiplug at thecoolant temperature sensor.8 Undo the brake servo vacuum hose banjounion bolt on the right-hand side of the inletmanifold, and recover the two copperwashers.9 Slacken the clip and disconnect the heaterhose at the inlet manifold, behind the brakeservo vacuum hose.

2A•12 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

11.26 Apply sealant to the camshafthousing mating face

11.25 Fitting the camshaft oil seals

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

11.27 Camshaft housing retaining bolt identification and tightening sequence

A Patch bolt locations B Plain bolt locations

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10 Undo the bolt securing the stay bar to theinlet manifold, below the heater hose.11 Slacken the clips and disconnect theheater bypass hose at the thermostathousing.12 Slacken the clip and disconnect theheater hose at the other end of the bypasspipe.13 Undo the bolts securing the bypass pipeto the exhaust manifold, cylinder head andmain coolant pipe, release the clips securingthe wiring harness, and remove the bypasspipe from the engine (see illustration).14 Slacken the clip and disconnect thecoolant hose at the left-hand end of the inletmanifold.15 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from theinlet manifold, adjacent to the coolant hose.Mark the location of each hose as it isdisconnected.16 Undo the bolt securing the supportbracket to the inlet manifold, below thevacuum hoses.17 At the rear of the engine below the inletmanifold, release the wire clip and detach thebreather hose from the top of the oilseparator. Also detach the hose from thecrankcase ventilation system diverter valve(see illustration).18 Disconnect the two wires to the inletmanifold heater temperature sensor, on theunderside of the manifold, and the single leadto the manifold heater at the wiring connector.19 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts,and unscrew the lower locknut off the outer

cable end. Open the throttle at the throttlecam, slip the cable end out of the cam slot,and remove the cable from the supportbracket. Release the cable from the camshaftcover support bracket, and place it clear ofthe engine.20 On automatic transmission models,disconnect the kickdown cable, using thesame procedure as for the accelerator cable.21 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs at theidle speed stepper motor, the fuel injector,and the throttle potentiometer. Move thewiring harness clear of the cylinder head.22 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filteroutlet union banjo bolt on the left-hand side ofthe filter, then slowly unscrew the bolt torelease the fuel system pressure. Remove thebolt and recover the two copper washers afterthe pressure has been released. Tape over thefilter orifice and banjo union to prevent fuelloss and dirt ingress.23 Disconnect the fuel return hose at thepipe below the fuel filter.24 Remove the dipstick from the dipsticktube.25 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted powersteering pump, extract the circlip from the endof the power steering pump drivebelt tensionadjuster bolt. Slide the adjuster rearwards,and undo all the accessible bolts securing theadjuster bracket to the cylinder head. Nowmove the adjuster the other way, and undothe remaining bolts, then remove the adjusterassembly complete.26 Progressively slacken all the cylinder head

retaining bolts, in the reverse sequence to thatshown (see illustration 12.32c). Remove thebolts when all have been slackened.27 With the help of an assistant, lift thecylinder head, complete with manifolds, offthe engine. If the head is stuck, it can becarefully levered up using a large screwdriverbetween the cylinder block and the protrudingcylinder head flanges. Do not insert thescrewdriver under the head-to-block matingface. Place the head on blocks on the benchto protect the valves.28 Remove the cylinder head gasket from theblock.29 Prior to refitting, ensure that the cylinderblock and head mating faces are thoroughlyclean and dry, with all traces of old gasketremoved. Clean the threads of the retainingbolts, and remove any oil, water and threadsealer from the bolt holes.

Refitting30 Locate a new gasket over the dowels onthe cylinder block (see illustration).31 Check that the crankshaft is stillpositioned at the 90º BTDC position, and thatthe timing marks on the camshaft sprocketsare aligned.32 Lower the cylinder head assembly ontothe gasket, and refit the retaining bolts.Working in the sequence shown, tighten theretaining bolts in stages, to the specifiedtorque and angle settings given in the Specifi-cations (see illustrations).33 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•13

12.30 Locate a new cylinder head gasketover the dowels

12.17 Detach the hose from the divertervalve (arrowed)

12.13 Release the wiring harness clipsfrom the bypass pipe

12.32b . . . then angle-tighten the bolts tothe specified angular setting

12.32a Tighten the cylinder head bolts tothe specified torque . . .

2A

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

12.32c Cylinder head bolt tighteningsequence

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removal but refer to the relevant Sections and Chapters for adjustment details asnecessary.

Multi-point fuel injectionengines

Removal34 Carry out the operations described inParagraphs 1 to 8.35 On turbocharged engines remove theexhaust manifold as described in the relevantpart of Chapter 4.36 Slacken the clip and disconnect theheater hose at the other end of the bypasspipe.37 Undo the bolts securing the bypass pipeto the exhaust manifold, cylinder head andmain coolant pipe, and remove the bypasspipe.38 Slacken the clips and disconnect the twocoolant hoses from the underside of thethrottle housing.39 At the rear of the engine, disconnect thewiring multiplugs and leads at the crankshaftsensor, knock sensor, oil pressure switch andoil pressure transducer.40 Disconnect the main engine wiring loommultiplug(s) on the right-hand side valance asnecessary, to enable part of the loom to beremoved with the cylinder head.41 Check that all the wiring likely to impederemoval of the cylinder head and its ancillarieshas been disconnected, and the harnessmoved clear. It may be necessary todisconnect additional wiring, depending onoptions or additional equipment fitted.42 Disconnect the breather hoses from theoil separator.43 Open the throttle fully by hand, and slipthe accelerator inner cable end out of the sloton the throttle lever.44 Slacken the outer cable locknuts, andunscrew the outer locknut, nearest to thecable end, fully. Remove the washer andrubber bush, then withdraw the cable from thesupport bracket.45 On automatic transmission models,disconnect the kickdown cable, using thesame procedure as for the accelerator cable.46 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filteroutlet union banjo bolt on the left-hand side ofthe filter, then slowly unscrew the bleed screwin the centre of the bolt to release the fuelsystem pressure. Tighten the bleed screwwhen the pressure has been released. Undothe outlet union banjo bolt, and recover thetwo copper washers. Tape over the filterorifice, and banjo union to prevent fuel lossand dirt entry.47 Unscrew the union nut and disconnect thefuel return hose at the fuel pressure regulator,on the left-hand side of the inlet manifold.48 Remove the dipstick from the dipsticktube.49 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted powersteering pump, extract the circlip from the endof the power steering pump drivebelt tension

adjuster bolt. Slide the adjuster rearwards,and undo all the accessible bolts securing theadjuster bracket to the cylinder head. Nowmove the adjuster the other way, and undothe remaining bolts, then remove the adjusterassembly complete.50 Progressively slacken all the cylinder headretaining bolts, in the reverse sequence to thatshown (see illustration 12.32c). Remove thebolts when all have been slackened.51 With the help of an assistant, lift thecylinder head, complete with manifolds, offthe engine. If the head is stuck, it can becarefully levered up using a large screwdriverbetween the cylinder block and the protrudingcylinder head flanges. Do not insert thescrewdriver under the head-to-block matingface. Place the head on blocks on the benchto protect the valves.52 Remove the cylinder head gasket from theblock.53 Prior to refitting, ensure that the cylinderblock and head mating faces are thoroughlyclean and dry, with all traces of old gasketremoved. Clean the threads of the retainingbolts, and remove any oil, water and threadsealer from the bolt holes.

Refitting54 Locate a new gasket over the dowels onthe cylinder block.55 Check that the crankshaft is stillpositioned at the 90º BTDC position, and thatthe timing marks on the camshaft sprocketsare aligned.56 Lower the cylinder head assembly ontothe gasket, and refit the retaining bolts.Working in the sequence shown, tighten theretaining bolts in stages, to the specifiedtorque and angle settings given in the Specifi-cations (see illustration 12.32c).57 The remainder of refitting is a reversal ofremoval but refer to the relevant Sections and Chapters for adjustment details asnecessary.

13 Sump - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front ofthe car and support it on axle stands.3 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter1.4 Remove the exhaust front section withreference to the appropriate Part of Chap-ter 4.5 Undo the bolts securing the longitudinalsupport member to the underbody beneath the engine, and remove the member.6 Disconnect the crankcase breather

hose from the pipe stub on the side of thesump.7 Where applicable, release the turbochargeroil return hose from the sump.8 Slacken, then remove, the sump retainingbolts, noting that the corner bolt on the drainplug side at the flywheel end is longer than therest, and has a flat washer and elongatedwasher in addition to the normal springwasher (see illustration).9 Withdraw the sump from the crankcase,tapping it from side to side with a hide orplastic mallet if it is stuck. Recover the sumpgasket.10 If the oil pick-up tube and strainer are tobe removed, undo the two bolts securing thetube flange to the crankcase, and the singlebolt securing the support bracket to the mainbearing cap (see illustration).11 Slide the support bracket from under thecrankcase breather oil return pipe, andremove the pick-up pipe and tube from thecrankcase. Recover the O-ring from the pick-up pipe flange.12 Clean the sump thoroughly, and removeall traces of old gasket and sealant from themating faces of the sump and crankcase.13 If removed, clean the pick-up pipe, andthe filter gauze in the strainer.

Refitting14 Place a new O-ring seal on the pick-uppipe flange, fit the pipe and strainer assembly,and secure with the retaining bolts,

2A•14 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

13.8 Sump special retaining bolt location

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

13.10 Undo the two pick-up pipe-to-crankcase bolts

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tightened to the specified torque (seeillustration).15 Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the jointbetween Nos 1 and 5 main bearing caps andthe edge of the crankcase (see illustration).Apply gasket sealant to the sump andcrankcase mating faces, then place a newgasket in position.16 Refit the sump, and tighten the retainingbolts progressively, and in sequence, to thespecified torque (see illustration).17 Refit the crankcase breather hose andturbocharger oil return hose.18 Refit the exhaust front section asdescribed in Chapter 4.19 Refit the longitudinal support member.20 Lower the car to the ground, reconnectthe battery and fill the engine with oil asdescribed in Chapter 1.

14 Oil pump - removal and refitting 4

Removal1 Remove the timing belt as described inSection 7 or 8 according to engine type. On“T” series engines also remove the timing belttensioner as described in Section 9.2 Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filteras described in Chapter 1.3 On early “M” series engines, remove thestarter motor as described in Chapter 5. Using

a socket and long handle, slacken thecrankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt. Lockthe flywheel ring gear, through the startermotor aperture, using a large screwdriver orsimilar tool to prevent the crankshaft rotatingas the pulley bolt is undone. Remove the boltand withdraw the pulley.4 On later “M” series engines and all “T”series engines, withdraw the sprocket fromthe crankshaft.5 Remove the Woodruff key from the slot inthe crankshaft.6 Unscrew the oil pipe unions on the side ofthe filter housing, then undo the bolt securingthe oil pipe retaining clip and timing beltbackplate to the crankcase (see illustration).Where fitted unscrew the oil cooler feed andreturn pipe unions from the pump housing.7 Undo the retaining bolts and remove thetiming belt lower backplate.8 Undo the housing retaining bolts, andwithdraw the assembly from the crankshaftand crankcase (see illustration). Recover thegasket.

Refitting9 Ensure that the pump housing andcrankcase mating faces are thoroughly clean,with all traces of old gasket and sealerremoved.10 Apply a bead of RTV sealant to thevertical joint between the main bearing capand the crankcase, and smear jointingcompound to both faces of a new gasket.Place the gasket in position on the crankcase.

11 Lubricate the lip of the oil seal, then locatethe pump housing in place.12 Fit the retaining bolts, and tighten them tothe specified torque.13 Refit the timing belt lower backplate.14 Reconnect the oil pipe and whereapplicable, the oil cooler unions, and refit thepipe support clip retaining bolt.15 Place the Woodruff key in its crankshaftgroove, then refit the crankshaft pulley,retaining bolt and washer.16 Refit the crankshaft sprocket on later “M”series engines and all “T” series engines.17 On early “M” series engines, refit thecrankshaft pulley and tighten the retaining boltto the specified torque. Prevent the crankshaftrotating using the same method as used forremoval when tightening the bolt. Refit thestarter motor as described in Chapter 5.18 Refit the timing belt as described inSection 7 or 8 as applicable.19 Fit a new oil filter, and fill the engine withoil as described in Chapter 1.

15 Oil pump - dismantling,inspection and reassembly 3

Dismantling1 With the pump housing removed from theengine, undo the four Torx retaining bolts onthe housing rear face, and lift off the pumpcover (see illustration).

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•15

13.16 Sump retaining bolt tighteningsequence

13.15 Apply sealant to the main bearingcap joints

13.14 Fit a new O-ring to the pick-up pipeflange

15.1 Oil pump cover retaining bolts(arrowed)

14.8 Oil pump housing retaining bolts(arrowed)

14.6 Undo the bolt securing the oil piperetaining clip and timing belt backplate

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H28968

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2 To remove the pressure relief valvecomponents, extract the split pin andwithdraw the plug cap, spring and relief valveplunger (see illustration).3 Using a screwdriver, prise out thecrankshaft front oil seal from the oil pumphousing.

Inspection4 Inspect the condition of the inner and outerrotors for visual signs of scoring or wearridges. Note that the pump internal parts arenot available separately, and if there is anysign of wear, a complete new oil pump andhousing assembly must be obtained.5 Check the plunger for scoring or wearridges, and renew if necessary. Also renewthe plug cap O-ring if it shows signs ofdeterioration.

Reassembly6 Liberally lubricate the pump rotors to primethe pump, then refit the pump cover andsecure with the four Torx bolts.7 Lubricate the relief valve components withengine oil, then refit the plunger, spring andplug cap. Secure the cap with a new split pin.8 Place a new oil seal in position, andcarefully tap it home with the aid of a mallet,block of wood and the old oil seal.

16 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal 4

Front oil seal1 Remove the timing belt as described inSection 7 or 8, according to engine type.2 On early “M” series engines, remove thestarter motor as described in Chapter 5. Usinga socket and long handle, slacken thecrankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt. Lockthe flywheel ring gear, through the startermotor aperture, using a large screwdriver orsimilar tool to prevent the crankshaft rotatingas the pulley bolt is undone. Remove the boltand withdraw the pulley.3 On later “M” series engines and all “T”series engines, withdraw the sprocket fromthe crankshaft.

4 Remove the Woodruff key from the slot inthe crankshaft.5 Punch or drill two small holes oppositeeach other in the seal. Screw a self-tappingscrew into each, and pull on the screws withpliers to extract the seal.6 Clean the seal housing, and polish off anyburrs or raised edges, which may havecaused the seal to fail in the first place.7 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with cleanengine oil and carefully locate the seal overthe crankshaft and into the housing.8 Using a tubular drift which bears on thehard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal intothe housing until it is flush with the housingface.9 Refit the Woodruff key to the crankshaft.10 On later “M” series engines and all “T”series engines, refit the sprocket to thecrankshaft.11 On early “M” series engines, refit thecrankshaft pulley and tighten the retaining boltto the specified torque. Prevent the crankshaftrotating using the same method as used forremoval when tightening the bolt. Refit thestarter motor as described in Chapter 5.12 Refit the timing belt as described inSection 7 or 8 as applicable.

Rear oil seal13 Remove the flywheel/driveplate asdescribed in Section 17.

“M” series engines14 Punch or drill two small holes oppositeeach other in the seal. Screw a self-tappingscrew into each, and pull on the screws withpliers to extract the seal.15 Clean the seal housing, and polish off anyburrs or raised edges, which may havecaused the seal to fail in the first place.16 Lubricate the lips of the new seal withclean engine oil and carefully locate the sealon the end of the crankshaft.17 Using a tubular drift which bears on thehard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal intothe housing until it is flush with the housingface.18 Clean off any surplus oil then refit theflywheel/driveplate as described in Sec-tion 17.

“T” series engines19 Drain the engine oil as described inChapter 1.20 Slacken all the sump securing bolts in aprogressive sequence, but do not slacken thethree at the timing belt end.21 Completely remove the two bolts at theother end, securing the sump to the oil sealcarrier.22 Undo the five bolts and carefully removethe oil seal carrier from the cylinder blockdowels and crankshaft. Take great care not todamage the sump gasket as the carrier isremoved.23 Note that the oil seal carrier and the oilseal itself, are supplied as an assembly; theseal is not available separately.

24 Before refitting, inspect the sump gasket;if it was damaged in any way during removal itmust be renewed.25 Clean the end of the crankshaft, andpolish off any burrs or raised edges, whichmay have caused the seal to fail in the firstplace.26 Lubricate the lips of the new seal withclean engine oil and carefully locate the sealon the end of the crankshaft.27 Push the oil seal carrier into position overthe locating dowels and refit the retainingbolts. Progressively tighten the carrier bolts tothe specified torque, starting with the two atthe bottom, then the two in the centre, andfinally the one at the top.28 Tighten the sump bolts to the specifiedtorque, in the correct sequence (see Sec-tion 13).29 Refit the flywheel/driveplate as describedin Section 17. Refill the engine with oil oncompletion of refitting, and check for leaksaround the sump flange when the engine isrun.

17 Flywheel/driveplate -removal, inspection andrefitting

3Removal1 With the engine removed from the car andseparated from the transmission, or with thetransmission removed as described inChapter 7, remove the clutch assembly(manual transmission) as described in Chapter6.2 Where fitted, knock back the tabs of thelocking plate, using a screwdriver or smallchisel, and undo the six flywheel/driveplateretaining bolts. Note that the retaining boltsare of the encapsulated type, incorporating alocking compound in their threads, and newbolts must be obtained for reassembly.

3 Lift off the locking plate, then withdraw theflywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. Onautomatic transmission models, recover thespacer from the end of the crankshaft.

Inspection4 Inspect the starter ring gear on the flywheelor driveplate for wear or broken teeth. Ifevident, the ring gear should be renewed. Onautomatic transmission models, the ring gearis bolted to the driveplate, and renewal isstraightforward. On manual transmissionmodels however, the ring gear is a shrink fiton the flywheel, and renewal entails drilling

2A•16 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

15.2 Oil pressure relief valve components

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

To prevent the flywheelturning, lock the ring gearteeth using a small strip ofangle iron engaged in the

teeth and against the adaptor platedowel.

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the old ring then splitting it with a chisel. Thenew ring must then be heated so that itexpands slightly, and allowed to cool when inposition on the flywheel. As it cools, itcontracts to a smaller diameter than theflywheel so as to provide a tight interferencefit. The temperatures involved in this operationare critical to avoid damaging the ring gear,and the work should be carried out by a Roverdealer or motor engineering works.5 The clutch friction surface on the flywheelshould be checked for grooving or cracks, thelatter being caused by overheating. If theseconditions are evident, renewal of the flywheelis necessary.6 On manual and automatic transmissionmodels, check the condition of the reluctorring teeth. If any are bent, broken. or in anyway damaged, renew the ring, which is boltedto the flywheel or driveplate.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tightenthe new bolts to the specified torque, then bend over the tabs of a new lockingplate.

18 Engine/transmissionmountings - inspection and renewal

1Inspection1 The engine/transmission mountings seldomrequire attention, but broken or deterioratedmountings should be renewed immediately, orthe added strain placed on the drivelinecomponents may cause damage or wear (seeillustration).2 During the check, the engine/transmissionunit must be raised slightly, to remove itsweight from the mountings.3 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support itsecurely on axle stands. Position a jack underthe sump, with a large block of wood betweenthe jack head and the sump, then carefullyraise the engine/transmission just enough totake the weight off the mountings.4 Check the mountings to see if the rubber iscracked, hardened or separated from themetal components. Sometimes the rubber willsplit right down the centre.5 Check for relative movement between eachmounting’s brackets and the engine/transmission or body (use a large screwdriveror lever to attempt to move the mountings). Ifmovement is noted, lower the engine andcheck-tighten the mounting fasteners.

Renewal

Front mounting6 Remove the battery as described inChapter 5, then undo the retaining bolts andremove the battery tray.7 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in the relevant part of Chapter 4.

8 Undo the nut securing the mounting to theengine mounting bracket, and the two boltssecuring the mounting to the front chassismember.9 Using a jack and interposed block of wood,raise the engine slightly until the mountingstud can be withdrawn from the bracket, thenremove the mounting from the car.10 Renew the mounting if it shows any signof damage, contamination or separation of therubber-to-metal bond.11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butensure that the small peg on the mounting topface engages with the hole in the bracket, andtighten the bolts and nut to the specifiedtorque (Chapter 2, Part C).

Rear mounting12 Remove the air cleaner assembly and airintake trunking as described in the relevantpart of Chapter 4.13 Jack up the front of the car and support iton axle stands.14 Undo the bolts and remove thelongitudinal support member from beneaththe engine.15 Support the engine and transmission

assembly on a jack with interposed block ofwood.16 Undo and remove all the nuts and boltssecuring the mounting to its mounting bracketand chassis member, and the mountingbracket to the engine.17 Withdraw the mounting bracket frombelow, followed by the mounting. If there is aspacer located between the mounting andmounting bracket, retain this for refitting withthe existing mounting, but discard it if themounting is being renewed.18 Renew the mounting if it shows any signof damage, contamination or separation of therubber-to-metal bond.19 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butensure that the small peg on the mounting topface engages with the hole in the bracket, andtighten the bolts and nut to the specifiedtorque (Chapter 2, Part C).

Right-hand mounting20 Position a jack and interposed block ofwood under the sump, and just take theweight of the engine.21 Undo the bolts securing the powersteering pipe support brackets, and move the

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•17

18.1 Engine mounting components (manual transmission shown - automatictransmission similar)

2A

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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pipes slightly to gain access to the right-handmounting.22 Undo the mounting through-bolt, andrecover the special nut. Note that the forkedend of the nut plate locates over a stud on thebody bracket.23 Undo the two bolts and remove themounting and snubber plates from thebracket on the engine.24 Renew the mounting if it shows any signof damage, contamination or separation of therubber-to-metal bond.25 Refitting is a reversal of removal, buttighten the bolts to the specified torque(Chapter 2, Part C). Ensure that the mountingis correctly orientated when fitting, with itscentral casting web facing upwards.

Rear tie-bar26 On cars equipped with single-point fuelinjection, remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Chapter 4A.27 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1, then disconnect the heater hosesand coolant hoses in the vicinity of the tie-baras necessary to provide access.28 Undo the two through-bolts securing thetie-bar to its mounting brackets. Note that atthe larger end of the tie-bar, the through-bolt

is retained by a forked nut which engagesover a peg on the engine bracket.29 Using a screwdriver if necessary, prise thetie-bar from its brackets and remove it fromthe car.30 Renew the tie-bar if it shows any sign ofdamage, contamination or separation fromthe rubber-to-metal bond.31 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butensure that the tie-bar is positioned with theword TOP, on the larger end of the bar,uppermost. Tighten the through-bolts to thespecified torque (Chapter 2, Part C), then refitthe air cleaner as described in Chapter 4A.Refill the cooling system as described inChapter 1 on completion.

Snubber32 Jack up the front of the car and support iton axle stands.33 Undo the retaining bolts and remove thelongitudinal support member from under theengine.34 Undo the nuts and remove the backingplate and snubber from the longitudinalsupport member.35 If required, undo the nuts and bolts andremove the snubber bracket from thetransmission adaptor plate.36 Renew the snubber if it shows any sign of

damage, contamination or separation of therubber-to-metal bond. Check also for signs ofwear on the snubber bracket, and renew ifnecessary.37 Refitting is a reversal of removal.Centralise the snubber in its bracket beforetightening the bolts and nuts to the specifiedtorque (Chapter 2, Part C).

Lower tie-bar38 Jack up the front of the car and support iton axle stands.39 Undo the two through-bolts securing thetie-bar to its mounting brackets. Note that atthe larger end of the tie-bar, the through-boltis retained by a forked nut which engagesover a peg on the mounting bracket.40 Using a screwdriver if necessary, prise thetie-bar from its brackets and remove it fromthe car.41 Renew the tie-bar if it shows any signs ofdamage, contamination or separation of therubber-to-metal bond.42 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, but ensure that the tie-bar ispositioned with the letters BTM, on the largerend of the bar, facing downwards, and tightenthe through-bolts to the specified torque(Chapter 2, Part C).

2A•18 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

2B

GeneralEngine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . V6, single overhead camshaft per bankEngine code:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C25A2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C27A

Capacity:2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2496 cc2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2675 cc

Bore:2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 mm2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.0 mm

Stroke (all engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.0 mmCompression ratio:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.6:12.7 litre engines:

Non-catalyst equipped engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4:1Catalyst equipped engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-4-2-5-3-6 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end on rear bank)Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)Radial clearance on rocker shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 mm maximum

Cylinder headMaximum gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 mm

Camshafts and hydraulic tappetsCamshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.15 mmCamshaft bearing running clearance:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.045 to 0.081 mmUsed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm maximum

Hydraulic tappet seating stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 mm maximum

Chapter 2 Part B: V6 engine – in-car engine repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Camshaft and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting 15Camshaft covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Cylinder head, rocker gear and valve assemblies - cleaning and

inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2CCylinder head side covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2CEngine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2CEngine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 21

Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Exhaust valve rocker clearances - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 22General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Oil cooler and filter head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . 4Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 3

2B•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

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LubricationEngine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftCylinder head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50Cylinder head side cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Timing belt cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Timing belt backplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Timing belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 32Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24Camshaft carrier bolts:

4 bolts at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 92 bolts at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 21

Oil gallery bolts:8 bolts at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 212 bolts at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Crankshaft pulley centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 85Driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 55Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 78Filter head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Main bearing caps:

Bolts 1 to 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30Bolts 9 to 16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50Bolts 17 to 24 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Big-end bearing caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Oil cooler centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Oil pump housing bolts:

M6 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Oil pick-up pipe bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Sump nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Rocker arm guide plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Inlet manifold retaining nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Exhaust manifold retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Front engine mounting to transmission bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59Front engine mounting bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30Rear engine mounting bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30Right-hand engine mounting through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Right-hand engine mounting to engine bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44Right-hand engine mounting bracket to engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Engine rear tie-bar to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 55Engine rear tie-bar mounting bracket bolts:

M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33M12 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Engine rear tie-bar through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63Longitudinal support member to underbody . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Engine snubber bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

2B•2 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 General information

How to use this Chapter1 This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repairprocedures possible while the engine is stillinstalled in the car, and includes only theSpecifications relevant to those procedures.Since these procedures are based on theassumption that the engine is installed in thecar, if the engine has been removed andmounted on a stand, some of the preliminarydismantling steps outlined will not apply.2 Information concerning engine / trans-

mission removal and refitting, and engineoverhaul, can be found in Part C of thisChapter, which also includes theSpecifications relevant to those procedures.

Engine description3 The V6 engine fitted to Rover 825, 827 andSterling models is a water-cooled, six-cylinder, four-stroke petrol engine, of singleoverhead camshaft configuration per bank,and 2494 cc (2.5 litre) or 2675 cc (2.7 litre)capacity. The larger capacity being achievedby an increase in cylinder bore diameter. The2.5 litre engine was fitted to Rover 825 modelsfrom 1986 until 1988, to be replaced by the2.7 litre engine which is currently still inproduction.

4 The combined crankcase and cylinderblock is of die-cast aluminium alloyconstruction, and houses the pistons,connecting rods and crankshaft. The solidskirt cast aluminium alloy pistons have twocompression rings and an oil control ring, andare retained on the connecting rods by semi-floating gudgeon pins which are aninterference fit in the connecting rods. Theforged steel connecting rods are attached tothe crankshaft by renewable shell type big-end bearings. The crankshaft is carried in fourmain bearings, also of the renewable shelltype. Crankshaft endfloat is controlled bythrust washers which are located on eitherside of No 3 main bearing.5 A single overhead camshaft is located in

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each cylinder head, and is retained in positionby a housing bolted to the cylinder headupper face. The camshafts are supported bybearing journals machined directly into thehead and housings. Drive to the camshafts isby an internally-toothed composite rubbertiming belt, from a sprocket on the front endof the crankshaft. The belt also drives thewater pump pulley, and an automatictensioner is fitted to eliminate backlash andprevent slackness of the belt.6 The camshafts operate slippers which pivoton hydraulic tappets, one for each valve. Theinlet valves are operated directly from thecamshaft slippers, whereas the exhaustvalves are operated indirectly from thecamshaft slippers by pushrods and adjustablerocker arms (see illustration).7 The engine utilizes four valves per cylinder,mounted at an inclined angle, and running inguides which are pressed into the cylinderhead. The valves are of small diameter, toimprove breathing efficiency and reduce valvemass.8 The distributor is attached to the rear of thefront facing cylinder head and is driven off therear of the camshaft. The power steeringpump and alternator are mounted on top ofthe engine and driven by separate drivebeltsfrom the crankshaft pulley.9 Blow-by gases from the crankcase arevented by a positive crankcase ventilationsystem back into the intake air stream forcombustion.10 The pressed-steel sump is attached to theunderside of the crankcase, and acts as areservoir for the engine oil. The oil pump

draws oil through a strainer attached to thepick-up pipe and submerged in the oil. Thepump passes the oil along a passage and intothe full-flow filter and oil cooler assembly,mounted on the front of the engine. Thefiltered oil flows from the filter and enters themain cylinder block oil gallery, which feedsthe crankshaft main bearings. Oil passes fromthe main bearings, through drillings in thecrankshaft to the big-end bearings.11 A drilling from the main oil gallery feedsthe cylinder head gallery, where the oil isdirected to the camshaft bearings, cams andcam slippers, and to the hydraulic tappets,rocker arm pivots and rocker arm shafts. Theoil then drains back into the sump via largedrillings in the cylinder head and cylinderblock.12 A pressure relief valve is incorporated inthe oil pump, to maintain the oil pressurewithin specified limits.13 Apart from minor developmentdifferences, both the 2.5 and 2.7 litre versionsof the engine are mechanically identical.

2 Repair operations possiblewith the engine in the vehicle

The following operations can be carried outwithout having to remove the engine from thecar:(a) Compression pressure - testing.(b) Removal and refitting of the timing belt.(c) Removal and refitting of the camshaft and

tappets.(d) Removal and refitting of the cylinder

head.(e) Removal and refitting of the sump.(f) Removal and refitting of the big-end

bearings.*(g) Removal and refitting of the piston and

connecting rod assemblies.*(h) Removal and refitting of the oil pump.(i) Removal and refitting of the engine

mountings.(j) Removal and refitting of the flywheel or

driveplate (after first removing thetransmission).

* In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessaryequipment, repair or renewal of piston rings,pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings ispossible with the engine in the vehicle. However,this practice is not recommended, because ofthe cleaning and preparation work that must bedone to the components involved, and becauseof the amount of preliminary dismantling workrequired - these operations are thereforecovered in Part C of this Chapter.

Precautionary noteDue to the layout of the V6 engine, and the

very limited space available in the enginecompartment, access to most components isextremely limited. Although it is physicallypossible to carry out the operations describedabove with the engine in the car, the space

restrictions, the number of components thatneed to be removed for access, and thecomplications involved when working on anengine of this complexity, may presentunforseen difficulties.

Read through all the relevant proceduresand familiarize yourself with what’s involvedbefore proceeding; in many instances, it mayactually be easier to remove the engine fromthe car, and carry out the repair with the uniton the bench. Strictly speaking, much of thework described in this Chapter is not for thefaint-hearted, and should really only beundertaken by the more experienced DIYowner.

3 Compression test -description and interpretation

Refer to Part A, Section 3.

4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) fornumber 1 piston - locating 2

General1 Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest pointthat each piston reaches as the crankshaftrotates. While each piston reaches TDC bothat the top of the compression stroke andagain at the top of the exhaust stroke, for thepurpose of timing the engine, TDC refers tothe piston position (usually No 1 piston) at thetop of its compression stroke.2 It is useful for several servicing proceduresto be able to position the engine at TDC.3 No 1 piston and cylinder are at the right-hand (timing belt) end of the engine (right- andleft-hand are always as seen from the driver’sseat), on the rear bank (ie under the brakemaster cylinder). The crankshaft rotatesclockwise when viewed from the right-handside of the vehicle.

Locating TDC4 Remove the small plastic plug from theviewing hole on the front of each timing beltupper cover (see illustration).

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures 2B•3

1 Camshaft2 Hydraulic tappet3 Inlet valves4 Inlet valve slippers5 Exhaust valves6 Exhaust valve

slippers

7 Pushrods8 Rocker arms9 Tappet body

10 Plunger11 Check ball12 Return spring

1.6 General arrangement of the V6 enginevalve gear

4.4 Remove the plastic plug from theviewing hole on each timing belt upper

cover

2B

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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5 Remove the access cover under the right-hand wheelarch.6 Using a socket and bar on the crankshaftpulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft pulley, in thenormal direction of rotation, until a series ofvery small notches on the pulley inner rimcome into view. The first three notches are theignition timing marks and can be ignored. Thenext notch (usually coloured white) representsTop Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston oncompression, and this is the one we’re after(see illustration).7 Continue turning the crankshaft until theTDC notch is aligned with the pointer on thetiming belt cover, just above the pulley. It’sbest to look down at this from the enginecompartment to get the angle right.8 Now look through the viewing hole on thefront timing belt cover. A paint mark on thecamshaft sprocket rim should be aligned withthe notch at the top of the viewing window(see illustration). If it isn’t, turn the crankshaftthrough one complete revolution and realignthe timing marks as before. The mark on thecamshaft sprocket should now be correctlyaligned. The mark on the rear camshaftsprocket should also be visible through theother window.9 When all the marks are aligned, the engineis at TDC for No 1 cylinder on compression,and is correctly positioned for any work thatrequires the timing belt to be disturbed.10 Refit the plugs to the viewing windows oncompletion.

5 Camshaft covers - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Release the spark plug HT leads from theirclips on the camshaft covers and move theleads to one side.2 Release the clips and disconnect thebreather hoses from the camshaft covers.3 Disconnect the oil temperature switchwiring multiplug from the rear camshaft cover.4 Undo the two bolts and detach the pipesupport brackets from the rear cover.

5 Undo the two bolts securing each camshaftcover to the cylinder head and lift off thecovers (see illustration). Collect the washersunder the bolt heads, and remove the covergaskets.6 Inspect the cover gasket and the seals onthe retaining bolts and renew any that aredamaged.7 Clean the cover and mating faces carefullythen, if necessary, fit a new gasket to thecover, ensuring that it locates in the covergrooves.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

6 Cylinder head side covers -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 If the rear cover is being removed, jack upthe front of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Access to the rear cover is marginallybetter from below.2 Move the adjacent components clear asmuch as possible and undo the side coverretaining bolts. Note the oxygen sensor wiringsupport bracket attachments on one of thelower bolts and the engine earth lead on theupper front cover bolt (see illustration).

3 Withdraw the side covers from the cylinderhead being prepared for some oil spillage.4 Inspect the condition of the cover gasketand renew it if necessary.5 Clean the cover and mating faces carefullythen, if necessary, fit a new gasket to thecover, ensuring that it locates in the covergrooves.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat the arrow, and the word UP are at the topwhen refitting each cover (see illustration).

7 Exhaust valve rockerclearances - adjustment 3

Note: This is not a routine maintenanceoperation and will only be necessary if thecylinder head, camshafts or any componentsof the valve train have been disturbed orrenewed.1 Remove the camshaft covers and thecylinder head side covers as described inSections 5 and 6 respectively.2 Set the engine to TDC for No 1 cylinder oncompression, as described in Section 4.3 Slacken the rocker arm adjusting screwlocknuts for No 1 cylinder exhaust valves onthe rear cylinder head.4 Tighten the adjusting screw until it justcontacts the valve, then tighten it a further

2B•4 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

6.6 Ensure that the arrow, and the wordUP are at the top when refitting the side

covers

6.2 Engine earth lead (arrowed) on theupper front side cover bolt

5.5 Lifting off the front camshaft cover4.8 Paint mark on the camshaft sprocketrim aligned with the notch at on the

viewing window

4.6 Ignition timing notches (A) and TDCnotch (B) on the crankshaft pulley

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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one and a half turns. Tighten the locknutsecurely (see illustration).5 Repeat paragraphs 3 and 4 for No 2cylinder exhaust valves on the rear cylinderhead, and No 4 cylinder exhaust valves on thefront cylinder head.6 Rotate the crankshaft through onecomplete revolution and realign the timingmarks.7 Repeat paragraphs 3 and 4 for No 5 and No 6 cylinder exhaust valves on the frontcylinder head, and No 3 cylinder exhaustvalves on the rear cylinder head.8 Refit the cylinder head side covers andcamshaft covers on completion.

8 Inlet manifold - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.2 Disconnect the spark plug HT leads fromthe spark plugs and cable clips and move theleads clear of the engine. Ensure each lead islabelled to identify its respective spark plug.3 Refer to Chapter 4, Part D and remove thefollowing components:(a) Air cleaner and air intake components

(Section 2).(b) Throttle body (Section 12).(c) Electronic idle control valve (Section 12).(c) Fast idle valve (Section 12).(d) Front and rear fuel rail and injectors

(Section 12).4 Refer to Chapter 4, Part E and remove theair suction valve pipe.5 Check that all the vacuum hoses at the pipecluster are numbered with correspondingnumbers on their respective pip stubs. Markany as necessary, then disconnect all thehoses from the pipe cluster stubs.6 Check that all pipes, hoses and cables havebeen disconnected; undo the eight nuts andbolts securing the manifold to the cylinderhead.7 Lift the manifold up and off the engine andrecover the two gaskets.

Refitting8 Ensure that the manifold and cylindermating faces are clean then place themanifold on the cylinder head using newgaskets. Secure the manifold with the eightnuts and bolts.9 Refer to the relevant Parts of Chapter 4 andrefit the previously removed components.10 Reconnect the spark plug leads, then refillthe cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

9 Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting 1

Note: Never work on or near a hot exhaustsystem and in particular, the catalyticconverter (where fitted).

Removal1 If the front manifold is being removed, referto Chapter 3 and remove the radiator.2 Jack up the front of the vehicle and supportit on axle stands.3 On the front manifold, undo the two nutsand lift off the small heat shield and the airsuction pipe flange. Recover the gasket.4 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiringharness connectors and release the wiringfrom the support brackets.5 Undo the bolts from the main manifoldheatshields and remove the heatshields.6 Undo the flange nuts and lower the exhaustfront pipe from the manifold studs. Recoverthe gaskets.7 Undo the seven nuts securing eachmanifold to its respective cylinder head, andremove the manifold(s).8 Clean the mating faces of all componentsand obtain new gaskets prior to refitting.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refit theradiator as described in Chapter 3 oncompletion.

10 Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelts for thealternator, power steering and if fitted, the airconditioning compressor as described inChapter 1.2 Remove the starter motor as described inChapter 5.3 Jack up the front of the car and support iton axle stands.4 Remove the access panel under the right-hand wheelarch.5 Using a socket and long handle, undo thecrankshaft pulley retaining bolt. Lock theflywheel ring gear, through the starter motor

aperture, using a large screwdriver or tool toprevent the crankshaft rotating as the pulleybolt is undone. Remove the bolt and washer(see illustration).6 Withdraw the pulley from the crankshaft.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the pulley retaining bolt to thespecified torque. Refit the starter motor asdescribed in Chapter 5, and the drivebelts as described in Chapter 1.

11 Timing belt covers - removal and refitting 4

Upper covers

Removal1 If the covers are being removed for anyprocedure that will entail disturbing the timingbelt, set the engine at TDC with No 1 cylinderon compression, as described in Section 4,before proceeding.2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelts for thealternator, power steering and if fitted, the airconditioning compressor as described inChapter 1.3 Undo the three bolts securing the rearupper cover to the cylinder head (seeillustration).4 Release the wiring harness support clips,

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures 2B•5

7.4 Exhaust valve rocker clearanceadjustment

11.3 Timing belt rear upper cover retainingbolts (arrowed)

10.5 Remove the bolt and washer andwithdraw the crankshaft pulley

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and move the harness clear, then withdrawthe rear cover from the engine.5 Undo the four bolts securing the front coverto the cylinder head (see illustration).6 Undo the dipstick tube bolt and remove thefront cover from the engine.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensurethat the lip on the cover lower edge engagesbehind the lower cover (see illustration). Refitthe drivebelts as described in Chapter 1.

Lower cover

Removal8 Remove the upper covers as describedpreviously.9 Remove the crankshaft pulley as describedin Section 10.

10 Undo the eight bolts securing the lowercover to the engine (see illustration).11 Release the rubber grommet from theprotruding head of the timing belt tensionerretaining bolt (see illustration).12 Undo the two bolts from the airconditioner compressor bracket and removethe drivebelt tensioner from the compressorbracket.13 Withdraw the lower cover from the engine.

Refitting14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

12 Timing belt - removal, refittingand adjustment 4

Note: Access may be improved if the coolantis drained and the expansion tank is removed(see Chapter 1).

Removal1 Remove the timing belt upper and lowercovers, as described in Section 11. Note thatit will be necessary to support the engine, andremove the bolts from the right-hand enginemounting, to allow auxilliary drivebelt removal(see Chapter 1).2 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retainingbolt and move the tensioner, against thepressure of the spring, to the fully releasedposition. Tighten the bolt to hold the tensionerin this position.

3 Remove the belt guide from the crankshaftsprocket noting that it is fitted with its concaveside facing outwards (see illustration).4 Sketch the timing belt arrangement aroundthe sprockets, water pump pulley andtensioner, as a guide when refitting (seeillustration).5 Ease the belt off the camshaft sprockets,then the water pump pulley and tensioner andfinally, the crankshaft sprocket (seeillustration). Remove the belt from the engine.6 If the timing belt is to be re-used, mark itsrunning direction with an arrow in chalk, andstore it on its edge while it is off the engine.7 Check the belt for any sign of cracks orsplits, particularly around the roots of the teeth.Renew the belt if wear is obvious, if there aresigns of oil contamination, or if the belt hasexceeded its service interval (see Chapter 1).Also renew the sprockets if they show anysigns of wear or chipping of the teeth.8 Check the tensioner and sprockets asdescribed in Section 13.9 Before refitting the belt, check that theengine is still at TDC with No 1 cylinder oncompression (Section 4) as it will probablyhave moved when the crankshaft pulley wasremoved. Use a screwdriver engaged with theflywheel teeth to move the crankshaft asnecessary, and move the camshafts bymeans of their sprockets. With the coversremoved, it is possible to see the mark ornotch on the ends of the camshaft sprockets,which should be aligned with thecorresponding line in the backplate (see

2B•6 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

12.5 Ease the belt off the camshaftsprockets

12.4 Timing belt arrangement around thesprockets, pulley and tensioner

12.3 Remove the belt guide from thecrankshaft sprocket

11.11 Release the rubber grommet fromthe protruding head of the timing belt

tensioner retaining bolt

11.10 Timing belt lower cover retainingbolts (arrowed)

11.7 Ensure that the lip on the upper coverlower edge engages behind the lower

cover

11.5 Timing belt front upper coverretaining bolts (arrowed)

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illustrations). Similarly, there is a notch on thefront of the crankshaft sprocket which shouldalign with an arrow cast into the oil pumphousing (see illustration).

Refitting and adjustment10 Feed the timing belt around thesprockets, starting with the crankshaftsprocket, then, keeping it taught, feed it overthe front camshaft sprocket, water pumppulley, rear camshaft sprocket, and tensionerpulley.11 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retainingbolt, allow the tensioner to automaticallytension the belt, then re-tighten the bolt.12 Refit the belt guide to the crankshaftsprocket noting that it is fitted with itsconcave side facing outwards.13 Check that the timing marks are stillaligned with the engine at TDC, then refit thetiming belt covers and crankshaft pulley.14 Turn the engine over by means of thecrankshaft pulley bolt to settle the belt on thesprockets. Return the crankshaft to TDC forNo 1 cylinder on compression.15 Now turn the crankshaft further byapproximately nine teeth on the camshaftsprocket until an additional notch (usuallycoloured blue) is aligned with the pointer onthe lower cover.16 Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolt,then retighten it once more.17 Turn the crankshaft further to return it tothe TDC position for No 1 cylinder on

compression, and check that all the timingmarks, on the pulley and camshaft sprocketsare aligned as previously described. If theyare all is well. If not, the belt is probably atooth out and should be repositioned aspreviously described.18 Refit the plugs to the upper covers, thenrefit the auxiliary drivebelts as described inChapter 1.

13 Timing belt tensioner andsprockets - removal,inspection and refitting 4

Tensioner

Removal1 Remove the timing belt as described inSection 12.2 Unhook the tensioner spring from theanchorage stud.3 Remove the tensioner retaining bolt, lift offthe tensioner and remove the spring (seeillustration).

Inspection4 Spin the tensioner, and ensure that there isno roughness or harshness in the bearing.Also check that the endfloat is not excessiveand there is no sign of free play. Check thesurface of the tensioner for any signs ofroughness, nicks or scoring which may

damage the timing belt. Renew the tensionerif worn.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensurethat the lower tensioner arm engages over thelug in the casing (see illustration).

Camshaft sprockets

Removal6 Remove the timing belt as described inSection 12.7 Undo the three retaining bolts securingeach sprocket to its respective camshaft. Toprevent the sprockets turning as the bolts areundone, either insert a large screwdriverthrough one of the sprocket holes and engageit with one of the backplate bolts behind, ormake up a holding tool from scrap metal,which is of a scissor shape, with a bolts ateach end to engage with the holes in thesprocket (see illustration).8 Withdraw the two sprockets from thecamshafts, noting their orientation; thesprocket with the flanged edge is fitted to thefront camshaft, and the sprocket with thespokes is fitted to the rear camshaft.

Inspection9 Check the condition of the sprockets,inspecting carefully for any wear grooves,pitting or scoring around the teeth, or anywear ridges which might cause damage to thetiming belt. Make sure that the dowels are not

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures 2B•7

12.9c Notch on the front of the crankshaftsprocket aligned with the arrow cast into

the oil pump housing

12.9b Rear camshaft sprocket timingnotch, aligned with the corresponding line

in the backplate

12.9a Front camshaft sprocket timingmark, aligned with the corresponding line

in the backplate

13.7 Use a tool like this to hold thecamshaft sprocket as the bolts are

undone

13.5 Ensure that the lower tensioner armengages over the lug in the casing when

refitting

13.3 Remove the tensioner retaining bolt,lift off the tensioner and remove the spring

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worn and are not a loose fit in the camshaft orsprocket holes.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat the sprockets are fitted to their correctcamshafts and tighten the retaining bolts tothe specified torque.

Crankshaft sprocket

Removal11 Remove the timing belt as described inSection 12.12 Slide the sprocket off the front of thecrankshaft followed by the timing belt guidebehind.

Inspection13 Check the condition of the sprocket,inspecting carefully for any wear grooves,pitting or scoring around the teeth, or anywear ridges which might cause damage to thetiming belt. Examine the Woodruff key and itsgroove and make sure it is a tight fit.

Refitting14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

14 Camshaft oil seals - renewal 4

Note: The use of an oil seal extractor whichscrews into the seal inside circumference ispreferable for this operation. These areavailable at most accessory shops and canoften be hired from tool hire outlets. In theabsence of this type of tool, an alternative (butless satisfactory) method of removal isdescribed in the following procedure.1 Remove the camshaft sprockets asdescribed in the previous Section.2 Undo the retaining bolts and remove thebackplate from the front or rear cylinder headas required (see illustration).3 The oil seals are now accessible forremoval. Punch or drill two small holesopposite each other in the oil seal. Screw aself-tapping screw into each hole and pull onthe screws with pliers to extract the seal.4 Check that the housing is clean before

fitting the new seal. Lubricate the lips of theseal and the running faces of the camshaftwith clean engine oil, then carefully locate theseal over the camshaft and drive it squarelyinto position using a tube or a socket. Takecare not to turn over the lips of the seal as it isbeing fitted. Another method of fitting is todraw it squarely into position using thesprocket bolt and a distance piece.5 With the seal fully inserted in its housing,refit the backplate, then refit the camshaftsprocket as described in the previousSection.

15 Camshaft and hydraulictappets - removal, inspectionand refitting

4Removal1 Remove the air cleaner assembly and airintake trunking as described in Chapter 4,Part D.2 Remove the camshaft covers as describedin Section 5.3 Remove the cylinder head side covers asdescribed in Section 6.4 Remove the camshaft sprocket(s) asdescribed in Section 13.5 If working on the front camshaft, removethe distributor as described in Chapter 5.6 If working on the rear camshaft, remove thepower steering pump as described in Chapter10.7 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the

backplate from the front or rear cylinder headas required.8 Undo the ten bolts securing the oil galleryto the camshaft carrier noting the locations ofthe two short bolts (see illustration).9 Lift off the oil gallery and recover the smallO-ring seal in the camshaft carrier (seeillustration).10 If working on the front camshaft, undo thetwo small camshaft carrier retaining bolts ateach end.11 Lift the camshaft carriers off the cylinderhead (see illustration).12 Carefully lift out the camshafts, marking orlabelling them FRONT or REAR as applicable(see illustration).13 Withdraw the oil seal off the front of thecamshaft.14 If working on the rear camshaft, removethe end plug from the cylinder head.15 Obtain a compartmented box, and mark itinlet and exhaust for each cylinder (ie 1 INLET,1 EXHAUST, 2 INLET, 2 EXHAUST etc).16 Lift out the slippers, tappets andpushrods for each cylinder, in turn, and placethe components in their respectivecompartments in the box (see illustration).

Inspection17 Clean and inspect the variouscomponents removed, for signs of excessivewear.18 Examine the camshaft bearing journalsand lobes for damage or obvious wear. Ifevident, a new camshaft must be fitted, or onethat has been renovated by a company

2B•8 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

15.12 Carefully lift out the camshafts15.11 Lift the camshaft carrier off thecylinder head

15.9 Recover the small O-ring seal in thecamshaft carrier

15.8 Undo the ten bolts securing the oilgallery to the camshaft carrier

14.2 Front cylinder head backplateretaining bolts (arrowed)

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specialising in exchange components. If thecamshaft appears sound, measure the journaldiameters using a micrometer (seeillustration).19 The camshaft bearing bore diameters inthe cylinder head should be measured andchecked against the tolerances specified. Agauge will be required for this but if notavailable, check for excessive movementbetween the camshaft journals and thebearings. Alternatively, the Plastigagemethod, described in Part C of this Chapter,for main and big-end bearing runningclearance checks, can be used. If thebearings are found to be unacceptably worn,either a new camshaft or a new cylinder headis the only answer as the bearings aremachined directly in the head.20 It is seldom that the hydraulic tappets arebadly worn in the cylinder head bores butagain, if the tappets are scored, or the boresare found to be worn beyond an acceptablelevel, either the tappet(s) or the completecylinder head must be renewed. If any of thetappets have been noisy in operation, or theirinternal condition is suspect, perform a tappetseating stroke check as described below.21 If the contact surface of the cam lobesshow signs of depression or grooving, notethat they cannot be renovated by grinding asthe hardened surface will be removed and theoverall length of the tappet(s) will be reduced.The self-adjustment point of the tappet will beexceeded as a result, so that the valveadjustment will be affected and they will then

be noisy in operation. Therefore, renewal ofthe camshaft is the only remedy in this case.22 Check the rocker arms for signs ofscoring on their contact faces and for anyvisible signs of wear on the pushrods. Renewany that are noticeably worn or damaged.

Tappet seating stroke check23 Carry out this check if any of the tappetshave been noisy in operation, or their internalcondition is suspect.24 Using a small drill bit that will just fitthrough the hole in the end of the tappet,immerse the tappet in a small container ofclean engine oil so that the tappet issubmerged. Insert the drill bit through the holein the tappet ball end and push the valveinside the tappet in and out several times,using a slow pumping action, to remove all airfrom the tappet (see illustrations).25 Remove the tappet from the containerand place it on the bench with the ball enduppermost.26 Mount a dial gauge and test stand overthe tappet with the dial gauge probe incontact with the tappet ball end. Zero thegauge.27 Push the ball end down quickly by handand note the reading on the dial gauge. This isthe tappet seating stroke and, if it is outsidethe maximum figure given in theSpecifications, renew the tappet.28 After checking, the tappet must bedrained of oil so as to be fitted dry onreassembly.

Caution: On reassembly, do not fit a tappetthat is full of oil from the seating strokecheck, otherwise there is a possibility ofthe valves being held open on initialcranking.29 Turn the tappet upside down and, usingthe small drill bit, depress the internal valve todrain the oil from the tappet (see illustration).30 Repeat the above procedure on any othersuspect tappets.

Refitting31 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points:(a) Fill the tappet bores to oil path level

before fitting the tappets and do notrotate them once in position (seeillustration).

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures 2B•9

15.18 Measure the camshaft journaldiameters using a micrometer

15.16b . . . and hydraulic tappets15.16a Lift out the rocker arms . . .

15.31a Fill the tappet bores with oil beforefitting the tappets

15.24a Using a small drill bit that will just fitthrough the hole in the end of the tappet . . .

15.29 Depress the internal tappet valve todrain the oil prior to installation

15.24b . . . immerse the tappet in oil andpush the valve inside in and out to remove

all the air

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(b) Prime the tappet oil feeds in the cylinderhead with oil (see illustration).

(c) Apply RTV sealant to the ends of thecamshaft carrier before refitting (seeillustration).

(d) Use new gaskets on all joints and tightenthe retaining nuts and bolts to thespecified torque where given. Tighten theoil gallery bolts in the sequence shown(see illustration).

(e) Refit all components removed for accessas described in the relevant Sections andChapters of this manual.

16 Cylinder head - removal and refitting 4

Removal1 Remove the inlet manifold as described inSection 8.2 Remove the camshaft and hydraulictappets on the side concerned as described inSection 15.3 Undo the flange bolts and remove theexhaust front pipes from the exhaustmanifolds. Recover the flange gaskets.4 Undo the bolts securing the coolantconnecting pipe. Disconnect the temperaturesensor wiring multiplug, move the wiringharness aside and remove the connectingpipe. Recover the sealing O-rings from the pipe.5 If removing the front cylinder head,

disconnect the camshaft sensor wiringmultiplug (where fitted).6 If not already removed, remove the pushrods from their locations and place them in amarked box to indicate their respectivecylinders.7 Progressively slacken the cylinder headretaining bolts a third of a turn at a time, in thesequence shown until all are slack, thenremove the bolts (see illustration).8 Lift the cylinder head off the locatingdowels and remove it from the engine. If thehead is stuck, it can be carefully levered upusing a large screwdriver between thecylinder block and the protruding cylinderhead flanges. Do not insert the screwdriverunder the head-to-block mating face. Placethe head on blocks on the bench to protectthe valves.9 Remove the cylinder head gasket from theblock.10 Prior to refitting, ensure that the cylinderblock and head mating faces are thoroughlyclean and dry, with all traces of old gasketremoved. Clean the threads of the retainingbolts, and remove any oil, water and threadsealer from the bolt holes.

Refitting11 Locate a new gasket over the dowels onthe cylinder block.12 Lower the cylinder head assembly onto thegasket, and refit the retaining bolts. Working inthe sequence shown, tighten the retaining boltsto the specified torque (see illustration 16.7).Note that the cylinder head bolt slackening andtightening sequence are the same.13 The remainder of refitting is a reversal ofremoval but refer to the relevant Sections andChapters of this manual for adjustmentdetails.

17 Sump - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front ofthe car and support it on axle stands.3 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1.4 Remove the exhaust front pipe withreference to Chapter 4, Part D.5 Undo the bolts securing the longitudinalsupport member to the underbody beneaththe engine, and remove the member.6 Undo the six nuts and sixteen boltssecuring the sump to the crankcase.7 Withdraw the sump from the crankcase,tapping it from side to side with a hide orplastic mallet if it is stuck. Recover the sumpgasket.8 If the oil pick-up tube and strainer are to beremoved, undo the two bolts securing thestrainer bracket to the crankcase, and the twobolts securing the pick-up tube flange to theoil pump.9 Remove the pick-up pipe and tube from thecrankcase. Recover the O-ring from the pick-up pipe flange. Remove the baffle plate fromthe cylinder block.10 Clean the sump, and the mating faces ofboth the sump and crankcase thoroughly.11 If removed, clean the pick-up pipe, andthe filter gauze in the strainer.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use anew sump gasket and O-ring seal on the pick-up pipe flange and tighten the sump retainingnuts and bolts progressively to the specifiedtorque. Fill the engine with oil as described inChapter 1 on completion.

18 Oil cooler and filter head -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.

2B•10 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

16.7 Cylinder head bolt slackening andtightening sequence

15.31d Oil gallery retaining bolt tighteningsequence

15.31c Apply RTV sealant to the ends ofthe camshaft carrier (shown shaded)

before refitting

15.31b Prime the tappet oil feeds in thecylinder head with oil

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2 Jack up the front of the car and support iton axle stands.3 Remove the right-hand front road wheeland the access panel under the wheelarch.4 Place a jack with interposed block of woodunder the sump and just take the weight ofthe engine.5 Undo the two right-hand engine mountingretaining bolts.6 Lower the jack slightly to provide access tothe oil cooler and filter head assembly fromunder the wheelarch.7 Undo the three bolts securing the assemblyto the front of the engine.8 Withdraw the assembly from the engine,and disconnect the oil pressure switch wiringand the two coolant hoses (see illustration).9 Recover the double O-ring seal from thefilter housing outlets on the engine (seeillustration).10 With the assembly on the bench, undo thecentre bolt from the oil cooler and remove thecooler from the filter head. Recover the O-rings.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butlubricate the O-rings prior to fitting. Fill thecooling system and top-up the engine oil asdescribed in Chapter 1, on completion.

19 Oil pump - removal and refitting 4

Removal1 Drain the engine oil as described in Chap-ter 1.2 Remove the timing belt as described inSection 12.3 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and thetiming belt tensioner as described in Section13.4 Remove the timing belt inner guide from thefront of the crankshaft.5 Unscrew the timing belt tensioner springanchorage stud from the oil pump housing.6 Remove the oil cooler and filter head asdescribed in Section 18.

7 Support the engine from above using acrane and chains or sturdy slings attached tosuitable anchorage points on the engine.8 Remove the jack from under the sump(from the previous operation) then remove thesump and oil pick-up strainer as described inSection 17.9 Undo the retaining bolt and remove thedipstick tube. Recover the O-ring.10 Undo the two bolts from the oil feed tubeand remove the tube. Recover the O-rings.11 Undo the nine oil pump housing retainingbolts, noting the locations of the two longerbolts (see illustration).12 Release the pump housing from thedowels and remove it from the engine.13 Clean off all traces of sealant on the pumphousing and cylinder block mating faces priorto reassembly.

Refitting14 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Apply abead of RTV sealant to the housing matingface, inside the line of bolt holes and tightenthe retaining bolts to the specified torque. Usenew O-rings on all components.

20 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal 4

Front oil seal1 Remove the timing belt as described inSection 12.2 Withdraw the sprocket from the crankshafttogether with the timing belt guide plate.3 Remove the Woodruff key from the slot inthe crankshaft.4 Note the fitted depth of the oil seal inrelation to the front of the housing as an aid torefitting.5 Punch or drill two small holes oppositeeach other in the seal. Screw a self tappingscrew into each, and pull on the screws withpliers to extract the seal.6 Clean the seal location in the pumphousing, and clean off any burrs or raisededges, which may have caused the seal tofail.

7 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with cleanengine oil and carefully locate the seal overthe crankshaft and into the housing.8 Using a tubular drift which bears on thehard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal intothe housing to the previously noted depth.9 Refit the Woodruff key to the crankshaft.10 Refit the timing belt guide plate andsprocket to the crankshaft.11 Refit the timing belt as described inSection 12.

Rear oil seal12 Remove the flywheel/driveplate asdescribed in Section 22.13 Punch or drill two small holes oppositeeach other in the seal. Screw a self tappingscrew into each, and pull on the screws withpliers to extract the seal.14 Clean the seal housing, and polish off anyburrs or raised edges, which may havecaused the seal to fail in the first place.15 Lubricate the lips of the new seal withclean engine oil and carefully locate the sealon the end of the crankshaft.16 Using a large tubular drift bearing on thehard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal intothe housing until it is flush with the housingface.17 Clean off any surplus oil then refit theflywheel/driveplate as described in Sec-tion 22.

21 Engine/transmissionmountings - inspection andrenewal

Refer to Part A, Section 18.

22 Flywheel/driveplate -removal, inspection andrefitting 3

Removal1 With the engine removed from the car andseparated from the transmission, or with the

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures 2B•11

19.11 Oil pump housing location on thefront of the engine

18.9 Recover the double O-ring seal fromthe filter housing outlets

18.8 Removing the oil cooler and filterhead assembly

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transmission removed as described inChapter 7, remove the clutch assembly(manual transmission) as described in Chap-ter 6.2 Undo the eight flywheel/driveplate retainingbolts. To prevent the flywheel turning, lock thering gear teeth using a small strip of angle ironengaged in the teeth and against, or screwedinto, a transmission-to-engine retaining boltinserted into a vacant bolt hole.

3 Lift off the washer plate (automatictransmission), then withdraw the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft.

Inspection4 Inspect the starter ring gear on the flywheelor driveplate for wear or broken teeth. Ifevident, the ring gear should be renewed. Thisis a specialist operation and should beentrusted to a Rover dealer.

5 The clutch friction surface on the flywheelshould be checked for grooving or cracks, thelatter being caused by overheating. If theseconditions are evident, renewal of the flywheelis necessary.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, tighteningthe bolts to the specified torque in a diagonaland progressive sequence.

2B•12 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

2C

4-cylinder engines

Cylinder headValve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45ºValve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.0 mm

Valves Inlet ExhaustValve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.09 to 7.10 mm 7.07 to 7.09 mmValve head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.7 to 31.9 mm 29.2 to 29.4 mmValve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.06 mm 0.06 to 0.07 mmValve spring free length:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.0 mm“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.2 mm

Pistons and piston ringsPiston-to-cylinder bore clearance:

“M” series engines:Top of skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 to 0.10 mmBottom of skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.05 mm

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.01 to 0.03 mmPiston ring end gap - installed:

“M” series engines:Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mmOil control ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.50 mm

“T” series engines:Top compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.35 mm2nd compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mmOil control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Piston ring-to-groove clearance:Top compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.06 to 0.09 mm2nd compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.07 mm

Chapter 2 Part C: Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

Crankshaft - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check . . 21Crankshaft (4-cylinder engine) - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Crankshaft (V6 engine) - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Cylinder head (4-cylinder engine) - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Cylinder head and rocker gear (V6 engine) - dismantling . . . . . . . . . 8Cylinder head, rocker gear and valve assemblies - cleaning

and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Engine - initial start-up after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Engine removal - methods and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Engine/transmission (4-cylinder engine) - removal, separation

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Engine/transmission (V6 engine) - removal, separation and refitting 5General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Main and big-end bearings - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Piston/connecting rod assemblies - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Piston/connecting rod assemblies - refitting and big-end bearing

running clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Piston/connecting rod assemblies (4-cylinder engine) - removal . . . 11Piston/connecting rod assemblies (V6 engine) - removal . . . . . . . . . 12Piston rings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

2C•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

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Cylinder blockCylinder bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.456 to 84.469 mmMaximum cylinder bore taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mmMaximum cylinder bore ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15Maximum gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm

Crankshaft and bearingsMain bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.005 to 54.026 mmMain bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 to 0.070 mmCrankpin (big-end) bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.648 to 47.661 mmCrankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.08 mmCrankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 to 0.20 mmNote: Refer to Part A of this Chapter for torque wrench settings.

V6 engines

Cylinder headValve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45ºValve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm maximum

Valves Inlet ExhaustValve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.58 to 6.59 mm 6.55 to 6.58 mmValve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.16 mm maximum 0.22 mm maximum

Cylinder blockCylinder bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.00 to 87.02 mmMaximum cylinder bore taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mmMaximum cylinder bore ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mmMaximum gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm

Pistons and piston ringsPiston-to-cylinder bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 mmPiston ring end gap:

Top compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.35 mm maximum2nd compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50 mm maximumOil control ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.70 mm maximum

Piston ring-to-groove clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No information available

Crankshaft and bearingsMain bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.24 to 0.048 mmMain bearing journal taper and ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 mm maximumCrankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . 0.026 to 0.050 mmCrankpin (big-end) bearing journal taper and ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 mm maximumCrankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 to 0.30 mmNote: Refer to Part B of this Chapter for torque wrench settings.

2C•2 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 General information

How to use this ChapterThis Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to

engine/transmission removal and refitting, tothose repair procedures requiring the removalof the engine/transmission from the vehicle,and to the overhaul of engine components. Itincludes only the Specifications relevant tothose procedures. Refer to Parts A and B foradditional Specifications, if required.

General informationThe information ranges from advice

concerning preparation for an overhaul andthe purchase of replacement parts, to detailedstep-by-step procedures covering removal

and installation of internal engine componentsand the inspection of parts.

The following Sections have been writtenbased on the assumption that the engine hasbeen removed from the vehicle. Forinformation concerning in-vehicle enginerepair, as well as removal and installation ofthe external components necessary for theoverhaul, see Parts A and B of this Chapterand Section 6 of this Part.

When overhauling the engine, it is essentialto establish first exactly what replacementparts are available. On some of the enginescovered in this Chapter, components such asthe piston rings are not available separatelyfrom the piston/connecting rod assemblies;pistons, gudgeon pins and valve guides mayalso not be available separately as may someunder- or oversized components. In somecases, depending on the extent of enginewear, it would appear that the easiest and

most economically-sensible course of actionis to replace a worn or damaged engine withan exchange unit.

2 Engine overhaul - general information

It’s not always easy to determine when, orif, an engine should be completelyoverhauled, as a number of factors must beconsidered.

High mileage is not necessarily anindication that an overhaul is needed, whilelow mileage doesn’t preclude the need for anoverhaul. Frequency of servicing is probablythe most important consideration. An enginethat’s had regular and frequent oil and filterchanges, as well as other requiredmaintenance, will most likely give many

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thousands of miles of reliable service.Conversely, a neglected engine may requirean overhaul very early in its life.

Excessive oil consumption is an indicationthat piston rings, valve seals and/or valveguides are in need of attention. Make surethat oil leaks aren’t responsible beforedeciding that the rings and/or guides areworn. Perform a cylinder compression checkto determine the extent of the work required.

Loss of power, rough running, knocking ormetallic engine noises, excessive valve trainnoise and high fuel consumption rates mayalso point to the need for an overhaul,especially if they’re all present at the sametime. If a full service doesn’t remedy thesituation, major mechanical work is the onlysolution.

An engine overhaul involves restoring allinternal parts to the specification of a newengine. Note: Always check first whatreplacement parts are available beforeplanning any overhaul operation; refer toSection 1 of this Part. Rover dealers, or agood engine reconditioning specialist/automotive parts supplier may be able tosuggest alternatives which will enable you toovercome the lack of replacement parts.

During an overhaul, it is usual to renew thepiston rings, and to rebore and/or hone thecylinder bores; where the rebore is done by anautomotive machine shop, new oversizepistons and rings will also be installed - allthese operations, of course, assume theavailability of replacement parts. The mainand big-end bearings are generally renewedand, if necessary, the crankshaft may bereground to restore the journals. Generally,the valves are serviced as well, since they’reusually in less-than-perfect condition at thispoint. While the engine is being overhauled,other components, such as the starter andalternator, can be renewed as well, or rebuilt,if the parts can be found. The end resultshould be an as-new engine that will givemany trouble-free miles. Note: Critical coolingsystem components such as the hoses,drivebelt, thermostat and water pump MUSTbe replaced with new parts when an engine isoverhauled. The radiator should be checkedcarefully, to ensure that it isn’t clogged orleaking (see Chapter 3). Also, as a general rule,the oil pump should be renewed when anengine is rebuilt.

Before beginning the engine overhaul, readthrough the entire procedure to familiariseyourself with the scope and requirements ofthe job. Overhauling an engine isn’t difficult,but it is time-consuming. Plan on the vehiclebeing off the road for a minimum of twoweeks, especially if parts must be taken to anautomotive machine shop for repair orreconditioning. Check on availability of parts,and make sure that any necessary specialtools and equipment are obtained in advance.Most work can be done with typical handtools, although a number of precisionmeasuring tools are required, for inspecting

parts to determine if they must be replaced.Often, an automotive machine shop willhandle the inspection of parts, and will offeradvice concerning reconditioning andreplacement. Note: Always wait until theengine has been completely dismantled, andall components, especially the cylinderblock/crankcase, have been inspected, beforedeciding what service and repair operationsmust be performed by an automotive machineshop. Since the block’s condition will be themajor factor to consider when determiningwhether to overhaul the original engine or buya rebuilt one, never purchase parts or havemachine work done on other componentsuntil the cylinder block/crankcase has beenthoroughly inspected. As a general rule, timeis the primary cost of an overhaul, so itdoesn’t pay to install worn or sub-standardparts.

As a final note, to ensure maximum life andminimum trouble from a rebuilt engine,everything must be assembled with care, in aspotlessly-clean environment.

3 Engine removal - methods and precautions

If you’ve decided that an engine must beremoved for overhaul or major repair work,several preliminary steps should be taken.

Locating a suitable place to work isextremely important. Adequate work space,along with storage space for the vehicle, willbe needed. If a workshop or garage isn’tavailable, at the very least, a flat, level, cleanwork surface made of concrete or asphalt isrequired.

Cleaning the engine compartment andengine/transmission before beginning theremoval procedure will help keep tools cleanand organised.

An engine hoist or A-frame will benecessary. Make sure the equipment is ratedin excess of the combined weight of theengine and transmission. Safety is of primaryimportance, considering the potential hazardsinvolved in removing the engine/transmissionfrom the vehicle.

If this is the first time you have removed anengine, a helper should ideally be available.Advice and aid from someone moreexperienced would also be helpful. There aremany instances when one person cannotsimultaneously perform all of the operationsrequired when removing theengine/transmission from the vehicle.

Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrangefor, or obtain, all of the tools and equipmentyou’ll need prior to beginning the job. Some ofthe equipment necessary to performengine/transmission removal and installationsafely and with relative ease, and which mayhave to be hired or borrowed, includes (inaddition to the engine hoist) a heavy-duty

trolley jack, a strong pair of axle stands, somewooden blocks, and an engine dolly (a low,wheeled platform capable of taking the weightof the engine/transmission, so that it can bemoved easily when on the ground). Acomplete set of spanners and sockets (asdescribed in the front of this manual) willobviously be needed, together with plenty ofrags and cleaning solvent for mopping-upspilled oil, coolant and fuel. If the hoist is to behired, make sure that you arrange for it inadvance, and perform all of the operationspossible without it beforehand. This will saveyou money and time.

Plan for the vehicle to be out of use forquite a while. A machine shop will be requiredto perform some of the work which the do-it-yourselfer can’t accomplish without specialequipment. These establishments often havea busy schedule, so it would be a good ideato consult them before removing the engine,to accurately estimate the amount of timerequired to rebuild or repair components thatmay need work.

Always be extremely careful when removingand installing the engine/transmission.Serious injury can result from carelessactions. By planning ahead and taking yourtime, the job (although a major task) can beaccomplished successfully.

4 Engine/transmission (4-cylinder engine) - removal,separation and refitting

3Note: The engine can be removed from thecar only as a complete unit with thetransmission; the two are then separated foroverhaul. The engine/transmission areremoved upwards and out from the top ofengine compartment.

Removal1 Extract the retaining clips and release thesupport struts from the bonnet. Tie the bonnetback in the fully-open position.2 Drain the cooling system, the engine oil,and the transmission oil or fluid as describedin Chapter 1.3 Remove the complete air cleaner and intaketrunking assembly, as described in therelevant Part of Chapter 4.4 Remove the battery as described inChapter 5, then undo the three bolts andremove the battery tray.5 Undo the three bolts and remove the aircleaner support bracket, located below thebattery tray.6 On cars with single-point fuel injection,undo the three ignition/fuel ECU mountingbracket bolts, and move the ECU and bracketaside.7 Slacken the clips and remove the radiatortop hose, then disconnect the expansion tankhose at the thermostat housing. On single-point injection models, disconnect the twoheater outlet hoses at the inlet manifold.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•3

2C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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8 Disconnect the remaining vacuum hose atthe inlet manifold.9 Undo the bolt securing the engine rear tie-bar support bracket to the inlet manifold (seeillustration).10 Undo the two through-bolts securing theengine rear tie-bar to the engine and bodybrackets, and recover the special forked nut(see illustration). Note that the forked end ofthe nut engages with a bracket projection toprevent the nut turning.11 Withdraw the rear tie-bar from itsbrackets, noting that it is stamped with theword TOP on the upper face of the larger end,which must be refitted accordingly.12 Slacken the clips and disconnect theradiator bottom hose at the radiator and main

coolant pipe, the bottom hose take-off at theexpansion tank pipe, the two heater hoses atthe heater matrix, and the heater outlet hoseat the inlet manifold or throttle housing (seeillustrations). On automatic transmissionmodels, disconnect the two coolant hoses atthe transmission oil cooler.13 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filteroutlet banjo union bolt on the left-hand side ofthe filter, then slowly unscrew the bleed screwin the centre of the bolt, or the bolt itself asapplicable, to relieve the fuel system pressure.When the pressure is released, remove thebolt and recover the two copper washers.Tighten the bleed screw where fitted.14 Release the clip and disconnect the fuelreturn hose from the pipe below the fuel filter.

Plug or tape over the disconnected fuel hosesand unions.15 Disconnect the accelerator cable at thethrottle end, as described in the relevant Partof Chapter 4.16 Undo the brake servo vacuum hose banjounion bolt at the inlet manifold, and recoverthe two copper washers.17 On cars with single-point fuel injection,disconnect the wiring multiplug from theignition/fuel ECU, and remove the relay fromits holder behind the ECU location (seeillustration).18 Separate the engine wiring harness fromthe main wiring harness by disconnecting thelarge round wiring multiplug located behindthe battery. Additionally, on cars with single-point fuel injection, disconnect the adjacentlarge flat multiplug, and on cars with multi-point fuel injection, the multiplugs at the rearright-hand side of the engine compartment(see illustrations).19 Disconnect the two sensing leads at thebattery clamps, noting their locations, andalso the main positive lead to the startermotor at the battery clamp.20 Remove the cover from the fuse and relaybox on the left-hand side of the enginecompartment, then lift off the cover over thefusible links.21 Lift out the engine harness cable retainingclip, undo the cable retaining screw, andremove the cable from the fuse and relay box(see illustrations).

2C•4 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

4.18c Disconnect the appropriate multi-plugs at the rear of the engine compartment

4.18b . . . and the adjacent flat multiplug4.18a Disconnect the large round wiringmultiplug (arrowed) . . .

4.17 Remove the relay behind theignition/fuel ECU

4.12b . . . and the heater hoses at theheater matrix (arrowed)

4.12a Disconnect the radiator hose(arrowed) at the main coolant pipe . . .

4.10 Remove the tie-bar through-bolt (A)and recover the forked nut (B)

4.9 Undo the bolt (arrowed) securing theengine rear tie-bar support bracket to the

inlet manifold

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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22 Disconnect the HT and LT leads at theignition coil.23 Disconnect the single cable at the startersolenoid.24 Undo the bolt and disconnect the earthlead on the side of the transmission, then slideup the rubber boot and disconnect thereversing light switch wires (see illustration).25 On automatic transmission models,extract the spring clip and withdraw the steeland rubber washers securing the selectorcable end to the transmission selector lever.Undo the outer cable retaining nut at theabutment bracket, release the inner and outercables, and recover the inner cable spacer.26 Disconnect the speedometer transducercable at the wiring multiplug.27 Check that all electrical connectionsbetween the engine and the car main wiringharness have been disconnected and movedclear. The engine wiring harness stays in situ,and is removed with the engine assembly.28 Slacken the hose clips and disconnect thetwo power steering hoses at the fluid reservoir(see illustration). Plug the hoses and theoutlets immediately to reduce fluid loss.29 Undo the two power steering pipe supportbracket bolts, and release the pipes from thebrackets (see illustration).30 On cars with a rear-mounted powersteering pump, slacken the clip and disconnectthe power steering fluid return hose from thepipe, then remove the pipe and hose assemblyclear of the engine (see illustration).

31 Jack up the front of the car and support iton axle stands.32 Refer to Chapter 4 if necessary, andseparate the exhaust front section at themanifold or turbocharger, and at theintermediate pipe flange joints. Remove theexhaust front section from the car.33 On manual transmission models, extractthe spring clip and withdraw the clevis pinsecuring the clutch slave cylinder pushrod tothe release arm. Undo the two slave cylinderretaining bolts and move the cylinder aside.34 On manual transmission models, undo thebolt in the centre of the transmission steadyrod. Remove the dished washer, slide off thesteady rod and remove the inner flat washer.Remove the spring clip to expose the

gearchange rod-to-gearchange shaft retainingroll pin. Using a parallel pin punch, tap out theroll pin and slide the gearchange rodrearwards off the shaft.35 Undo the eight bolts and remove thelongitudinal support member from beneaththe engine (see illustration).36 On cars with a front-mounted powersteering pump, undo the pipe union andremove the fluid pipe from the rear of thepump. Plug the unions to prevent fluid loss.37 Undo the nut securing the right-handsteering knuckle balljoint to the lowersuspension arm, then release the balljointfrom the arm using a universal balljointseparator tool or two-legged puller.38 Pull the steering knuckle outwards, then

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•5

4.21c . . . and remove the cable from thefuse and relay box

4.21b . . . undo the cable retaining screw . . .

4.21a Lift out the engine harness cableretaining clip . . .

4.30 Disconnect the power steering fluidreturn hose (arrowed)

4.24 Disconnect the transmission earthlead (A) and the reversing light switch

wires (B)

4.29 Undo the power steering pipesupport bracket bolts

4.28 Disconnect the two power steeringhoses at the fluid reservoir

2C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4.35 Undo the bolts and remove thelongitudinal support member (arrowed)

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using a flat bar or large screwdriver, leverbetween the driveshaft inner constant velocityjoint and the differential housing to release thejoint.39 Move the driveshaft clear, then repeatthese operations on the left-hand driveshaft.40 Attach a hoist to the engine using ropeslings, or chains attached to brackets securedto the cylinder head. Adjust the ropes orchains so that the engine will hang atapproximately 30º to the horizontal, with thetiming belt end uppermost, when it is liftedout.41 On automatic transmission models, undothe mounting bracket bolts and remove theengine lower tie-bar from under the front ofthe car, complete with mounting brackets.42 Undo the right-hand engine mountingthrough-bolt, and recover the special nut.Note that the forked end of the nut platelocates over a stud on the body bracket.43 Undo the two bolts securing the enginemounting to its mounting bracket, and removethe mounting (see illustration).44 Undo the two bolts securing the aircleaner trunking support bracket to the frontchassis member, and remove the bracket(see illustration).45 Undo the nut securing the front enginemounting to its transmission bracket (seeillustration).46 Undo the nut securing the rear enginemounting to its transmission bracket.47 Raise the engine slightly, then on carswith a rear-mounted power steering pump,

undo the power steering pipe union nut at therear of the pump, and remove the pipe. Plugthe unions to prevent loss of fluid.48 Make a final check that everythingconnecting the engine and transmission to thecar has been disconnected and moved wellclear.49 Carefully lift the power unit upwards,whilst moving and twisting it slightly to clearthe various projections (see illustration).When the unit has been raised sufficiently,draw the hoist forwards to bring the engineunit over the front body panel, then lower it tothe floor.

Separation - manualtransmission models50 With the engine/transmission removedfrom the car, undo the starter motor retainingbolts, and remove the unit from the clutchhousing.51 Undo the three bolts and remove theengine snubber bracket from the transmissionadaptor plate beneath the engine sump.52 Undo the two bolts securing the frontengine mounting bracket to the transmission,and remove the bracket.53 Undo the bolts securing the rear enginemounting bracket to the transmission, notingthe location of the crankshaft sensor bracket.Move the sensor aside and remove thebracket.54 Undo all the remaining bolts securing thetransmission to the engine.55 With the transmission well supported,release the locating dowels and draw the unitsquarely away from the engine.

Separation - automatictransmission models56 With the engine/transmission removedfrom the car, undo the starter motor retainingbolts and remove the unit from the converterhousing.57 Refer to Chapter 7, Part B and release thekickdown cable from the engine.58 Turn the crankshaft as necessary, using asocket or spanner on the crankshaft pulleybolt, until one of the torque converter retainingbolts becomes accessible through the startermotor aperture. Undo the bolt, turn the

crankshaft and remove the remaining twobolts in the same way.59 Undo the two bolts securing the frontengine mounting bracket to the transmission,and remove the bracket.60 Undo the bolts securing the rear enginemounting bracket to the transmission, notingthe location of the crankshaft sensor bracket.Move the sensor aside and remove thebracket.61 Undo the remaining bolts securing thetransmission to the engine.62 With the transmission well supported,release the locating dowels and draw the unitsquarely away from the engine. Ensure thatthe torque converter stays in place on thetransmission.

Attachment - all models63 Attachment is the straightforward reversalof the separation sequence, but whereapplicable, tighten all nuts and bolts to thespecified torque (Chapter 2, Part A). Onmanual transmission models, smear thegearbox mainshaft and release bearing facewith molybdenum disulphide grease beforeattachment.

Refitting64 Refitting is a straightforward reversal ofremoval, bearing in mind the following points:(a) Refit all the engine mounting bolts

loosely, then tighten them so as not toplace any under strain. Ensure that theright-hand mounting bolt is positionedcentrally within the elongated slot in thebody bracket.

(b) Refill the cooling system as described inChapter 1.

(c) Refill the transmission as described inChapter 1.

(d) Fill the engine with oil as described inChapter 1.

(e) Refill and bleed the power steeringsystem as described in Chapter 10.

(f) Adjust the accelerator cable as describedin the relevant Part of Chapter 4, andwhere applicable, the automatictransmission kickdown cable as describedin Chapter 7 Part B.

2C•6 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

4.49 Removing the engine andtransmission from the car

4.45 Undo the nut securing the frontengine mounting

4.44 Undo the bolts (arrowed) and removethe air cleaner trunking support bracket

4.43 Remove the right-hand enginemounting

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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5 Engine/transmission (V6 engine) - removal,separation and refitting

3Note: The engine can be removed from thecar only as a complete unit with thetransmission; the two are then separated foroverhaul. The engine/transmission areremoved upwards and out from the top ofengine compartment.

Removal1 Extract the retaining clips and release thesupport struts from the bonnet. Tie the bonnetback in the fully-open position.2 Drain the cooling system, the engine oil,and the transmission oil or fluid as describedin Chapter 1.3 Remove the complete air cleaner and intaketrunking assembly, as described in Chapter 4Part D.4 Remove the battery as described inChapter 5, then undo the three bolts andremove the battery tray.5 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the radiator.6 Disconnect the accelerator cable at thethrottle end (Chapter 4 Part D). Release thecable from its support clips and move it clear.7 Disconnect the HT lead at the ignition coil.8 Undo the two through-bolts securing theengine rear tie-bar to the engine and bodybrackets, and recover the special forked nut.Note that the forked end of the nut engageswith a bracket projection to prevent the nutturning. Withdraw the tie-bar from itsbrackets.9 Undo the brake servo vacuum hose banjounion bolt at the inlet manifold, and recoverthe two copper washers.10 Slacken the clips and disconnect thecoolant hoses at the thermostat housing (seeillustration). Disconnect the two heater hosesfrom their connections on the side of theengine. Disconnect any remaining coolanthoses from the engine and move them clear.11 Undo the bolt and disconnect the earthlead on the front engine side cover.12 Disconnect the multiplugs and release theharness from the clips on and around thedipstick tube.

13 Remove the cover from the fuse and relaybox on the left-hand side of the enginecompartment, then lift off the cover over thefusible links.14 Lift out the engine harness cable retainingclip, undo the cable retaining screw, andremove the cable from the fuse and relay box(see illustrations).15 Disconnect the two engine wiring harnesswiring multiplugs located in a bracket belowthe battery tray.16 Disconnect the battery lead at the startermotor.17 Disconnect the engine earth lead on thetransmission casing.18 Check that all the vacuum hoses at thepipe cluster are numbered with correspondingnumbers on their respective pipe stubs. Markany as necessary, then disconnect all thehoses from the pipe cluster stubs.19 Disconnect the cruise control vacuumhose and release the hose from the engineclips.20 Check that all remaining vacuum hoseslikely to impede removal of the engine havebeen removed.21 Disconnect the hose at the charcoalcanister (where fitted).22 Disconnect the hose at the diverter valve(where fitted).23 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filteroutlet banjo union bolt on the left-hand side ofthe filter, then slowly unscrew the bleed screwin the centre of the bolt, to relieve the fuel

system pressure. When the pressure isreleased, remove the bolt and recover the twocopper washers. Tighten the bleed screwwhere fitted.24 Release the clip and disconnect the fuelreturn hose from the pipe below the fuel filter(see illustration). Plug or tape over thedisconnected fuel hoses and unions.25 Separate the engine wiring harness fromthe main wiring harness by disconnecting thethree large round wiring multiplugs located atthe rear right-hand side of the enginecompartment (see illustration). Release theharness from the support bracket and move itclear.26 Wipe clean the area around the pipe andhose unions on the top of the power steeringpump. Place absorbent rags around theunions.27 Undo the two bolts securing the highpressure pipe connector, lift off the connectorand recover the O-ring.28 Slacken the hose clip, then disconnect thereturn hose from the pump. Plug or tape overthe disconnected unions to prevent dirt entry.29 Release the hoses from the supportbrackets and move them clear.30 On cars equipped with air conditioning,remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described inChapter 1, then remove the compressor fromthe engine as described in Chapter 3. Don’tdisconnect any of the refrigerant pipes, justrelease the mountings. Move the compressorto one side.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•7

5.14b . . . undo the screw, and remove thecable from the fuse and relay box

5.14a Lift out the engine harness cableretaining clip . . .

5.10 Slacken the clips and disconnect thecoolant hoses at the thermostat housing

5.25 Disconnect the three wiringmultiplugs at the rear of the engine

compartment

5.24 Disconnect the fuel return hose fromthe pipe below the fuel filter

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31 Undo the three expansion tank retainingbolts and move the expansion tank to oneside.32 Jack up the front of the car and support iton axle stands. Remove the front roadwheels.33 Undo the bolts and remove the accesspanel under the right-hand wheelarch and theundertray from beneath the wheelarch.34 Undo the flange bolts and separate theexhaust front pipes from the manifolds.Collect the gaskets.35 Remove the engine oil cooler and filterhead assembly as described in Part B,Section 18.36 Undo the retaining bolt and remove thespeedometer transducer assembly from therear of the transmission. Move the assemblyclear.37 Undo and remove the nut from the rearengine mounting.38 Undo the nut securing the right-handsteering knuckle balljoint to the lowersuspension arm, then release the balljointfrom the arm using a universal balljointseparator tool or two-legged puller.39 Pull the steering knuckle outwards, thenusing a flat bar or large screwdriver, leverbetween the driveshaft and intermediatebearing assembly to release the joint.40 Move the driveshaft clear, then repeatthese operations on the left-hand driveshaft,but release it from the differential housing.41 Attach a hoist using chains attached tothe engine and transmission lifting eyes. Raisethe hoist to just take the weight of the engine.42 Undo the eight bolts and remove thelongitudinal support member from beneaththe engine.43 On manual transmission models, undo thetwo slave cylinder retaining bolts, collect thepushrod and move the cylinder aside.44 On manual transmission models, undo thebolt in the centre of the transmission steadyrod. Remove the dished washer, slide off thesteady rod and remove the inner flat washer.Remove the spring clip to expose thegearchange rod-to-gearchange shaft retainingroll pin. Using a parallel pin punch, tap out theroll pin and slide the gearchange rodrearwards off the shaft.45 On automatic transmission models, referto Chapter 7, Part B and disconnect theselector cable at the transmission end.46 Undo the front engine mounting retainingnut, then undo the three bolts and remove themounting bracket from the engine.47 Undo the right-hand engine mountingthrough-bolt, and recover the special nut.Note that the forked end of the nut platelocates over a stud on the body bracket.48 Undo the two bolts securing the right-hand engine mounting to the engine, andremove the mounting.49 Check that all electrical connectionsbetween the engine and the car main wiringharness have been disconnected and movedclear. The engine wiring harness stays in situ,and is removed with the engine assembly.

50 Make a final check that everythingconnecting the engine and transmission to thecar has been disconnected and moved wellclear.51 Support the engine on a jack withinterposed block of wood positioned underthe sump. take the weight of theengine/transmission on the jack so that thehoist can be lowered slightly. Reposition thelifting chains so that the engine will adoptapproximately a 30º angle to the horizontal asit is lifted out, with the timing belt enduppermost.52 Carefully lift the power unit upwards,whilst moving and twisting it slightly to clearthe various projections (see illustration).When the unit has been raised sufficiently,draw the hoist forwards to bring the assemblyover the front body panel, then lower it to thefloor.

Separation - manualtransmission models53 With the engine/transmission removedfrom the car, undo the starter motor retainingbolts, and remove the unit from the clutchhousing.54 Undo the bolts and remove the enginesnubber bracket from the transmissionadaptor plate beneath the engine sump.55 Undo the bolts securing the rear enginemounting bracket to the transmission, andremove the bracket.56 Undo all the remaining bolts securing thetransmission to the engine.57 With the transmission well supported,release the locating dowels and draw the unitsquarely away from the engine.

Separation - automatictransmission models58 With the engine/transmission removedfrom the car, undo the starter motor retainingbolts and remove the unit from the converterhousing.59 Refer to Chapter 7, Part B and release thekickdown cable from the engine.60 Turn the crankshaft as necessary, using asocket or spanner on the crankshaft pulleybolt, until one of the torque converter retainingbolts becomes accessible through theopening on the lower face of the torque

converter housing. Undo the bolt, then turnthe crankshaft and remove the remainingbolts in the same way.61 Undo the bolts securing the rear enginemounting bracket to the transmission, andremove the bracket.62 Undo the remaining bolts securing thetransmission to the engine.63 With the transmission well supported,release the locating dowels and draw the unitsquarely away from the engine. Ensure thatthe torque converter stays in place on thetransmission.

Attachment - all models64 Attachment is the straightforward reversalof the separation sequence, but whereapplicable, tighten all nuts and bolts to thespecified torque (Chapter 2, Part A). Onmanual transmission models, smear thegearbox mainshaft and release bearing facewith molybdenum disulphide grease beforeattachment.

Refitting65 Refitting is a straightforward reversal ofremoval, bearing in mind the following points:(a) Refit all the engine mounting bolts

loosely, then tighten them so as not toplace any under strain. Ensure that theright-hand mounting bolt is positionedcentrally within the elongated slot in thebody bracket.

(b) Refill the cooling system as described inChapter 1.

(c) Refill the transmission as described inChapter 1.

(d) Fill the engine with oil as described inChapter 1.

(e) Refill and bleed the power steeringsystem as described in Chapter 10.

(f) Adjust the accelerator cable as describedin Chapter 4, Part D and whereapplicable, the automatic transmissionkickdown cable as described in Chapter 7Part B.

6 Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence

1 The engine dismantling and reassemblytasks are made easier if the engine ismounted on a portable engine stand whichcan be hired.2 If a stand is not available, it is possible todismantle the engine with it supported on astrong workbench or on the floor. Be carefulnot to tip or drop the engine when workingwithout a stand.3 If a reconditioned engine is to be fitted, allexternal components of the original enginemust be removed in order to transfer them tothe replacement unit (as they will if you aredoing a complete engine rebuild). Thesecomponents include the following, accordingto engine type.

2C•8 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

5.52 Removing the engine andtransmission from the car

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(a) Alternator and mounting brackets.(b) Power steering pump and air conditioning

compressor.(c) Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs.(d) Thermostat and housing.(e) Fuel injection system components.(f) Inlet and exhaust manifolds and

turbocharger.(g) Oil filter and housing.(h) Engine mountings.(i) Flywheel/driveplate.(j) Water pump.(k) All associated pipes, hoses and brackets.Note: When removing the externalcomponents from the engine, pay closeattention to details that may be helpful orimportant during refitting. Note the fittingpositions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts andother small items.4 If you are obtaining a short motor (whichconsists of the engine cylinder block,crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods allassembled), the cylinder head(s), sump, oilpump and timing belt will have to be removedalso.5 If a complete overhaul is planned, theengine can be dismantled and the internalcomponents removed in the following order.(a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.(b) Timing belt, tensioner and sprockets.(c) Cylinder head(s).(d) Flywheel/driveplate.(e) Sump.(f) Oil pump.

(g) Pistons (with connecting rods).(h) Crankshaft.6 Before starting the dismantling andoverhaul procedures, make sure that you haveall of the correct tools for the jobs to tackled.Refer to the introductory pages at the start ofthis manual for further information.

7 Cylinder head (4-cylinderengine) - dismantling 4

Note: New and reconditioned cylinder headsare often available from the manufacturers,and from engine overhaul specialists. Due tothe fact that some specialist tools are requiredfor the dismantling and inspectionprocedures, and new components may not bereadily available, it may be more practical andeconomical for the home mechanic topurchase a reconditioned head, rather than todismantle, inspect and recondition the originalhead.1 With the cylinder head on the bench,remove the camshafts and tappets,thermostat housing, inlet and exhaustmanifolds, and the spark plugs, referring tothe applicable Sections and Chapters of thismanual as necessary.2 To remove the valves, compress eachspring in turn with a universal valve springcompressor, until the two retaining collets canbe removed (see illustration).

3 Release the compressor, and lift off thespring top cup, valve spring, oil seal, valvespring seat and the valve (see illustrations).4 It is essential that the valves are kept intheir correct order, unless they are so badlyworn or burnt that they are to be renewed. Ifthey are going to be refitted, place them intheir correct sequence, along with thecamshaft tappets removed previously. Alsokeep the valve springs, cups, seats andcollets in the same order.

8 Cylinder head and rockergear (V6 engine) - dismantling 4

Note: Refer to the introductory noteconcerning reconditioned cylinder heads atthe beginning of Section 7.1 With the cylinder head on the bench,remove the camshafts and tappets, theexhaust manifold, and the spark plugs,referring to the applicable Sections andChapters of this manual as necessary.2 If working on the front cylinder head, undothe two bolts and remove the crank/anglesensor (where fitted) (see illustration).3 Unscrew the two blanking plugs from thecylinder head and collect the sealing washers.4 Screw a cylinder head bolt into the nowexposed transmission end of the rocker shaftand pull the shaft out of the cylinder head.5 As the shaft is removed, collect the rocker

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•9

7.3b . . . valve spring . . .7.3a Release the compressor, and lift offthe spring top cup . . .

7.2 Compress the valve springs with auniversal valve spring compressor

7.3e . . . and the valve7.3d . . . spring seat . . .7.3c . . . oil seal . . .

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arm spacer springs and the rocker arms, andplace them in their appropriate compartmentsof the marked box that has all the hydraulictappets and slippers removed previously.Alternatively use labelled plastic bags.6 Undo the eight bolts securing the guideplates and lift the guide plates off theirlocating dowels.7 To remove the valves, compress eachspring in turn with a universal valve springcompressor, until the two retaining collets canbe removed.8 Release the compressor, and lift off thespring top cup, valve spring(s), oil seal, valvespring seat and the valve.9 It is essential that the valves are kept intheir correct order, unless they are so badlyworn or burnt that they are to be renewed. Ifthey are going to be refitted, place them in

their correct sequence, along with the tappetsand other parts removed previously. Alsokeep the valve springs, cups, seats andcollets in the same order.

9 Cylinder head, rocker gearand valve assemblies -cleaning and inspection

4Note: Always check first what replacementparts are available before planning anyoverhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a goodengine reconditioning specialist/automotiveparts supplier, may be able to suggestalternatives which will enable you to overcomethe lack of replacement parts.1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head andvalve components, followed by a detailed

inspection, will enable you to decide howmuch valve service work must be carried outduring the engine overhaul. Note: If theengine has been severely overheated, it is bestto assume that the cylinder head is warped,and to check carefully for signs of this.

Cleaning2 Scrape away all traces of old gasketmaterial and sealing compound from thecylinder head.3 Scrape away the carbon from thecombustion chambers and ports, then washthe cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin orsolvent.4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits thatmay have formed on the valves, then use apower-operated wire brush to removedeposits from the valve heads and stems.

InspectionNote: Be sure to perform all the followinginspection procedures before concluding thatthe services of a machine shop or engineoverhaul specialist are required. Make a list ofall items that require attention.

Cylinder head5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,evidence of coolant leakage, and damage. Ifcracks are found, a new cylinder head shouldbe obtained.6 Use a straight edge and feeler blade tocheck that the head gasket surface is notdistorted. If it is, it may be possible to re-surface it.7 Examine the valve seats in each of thecombustion chambers. If they are severelypitted, cracked or burned, then they will needto be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaulspecialist. If they are only slightly pitted, thiscan be removed by grinding-in the valveheads and seats with fine valve-grindingcompound, as described below.8 If the valve guides are worn, indicated by aside-to-side motion of the valve, new guidesmust be fitted. Measure the diameter of theexisting valve stems (see below) and the boreof the guides, then calculate the clearance,and compare the result with the specifiedvalue; if the clearance is excessive, renew thevalves or guides as necessary.9 The renewal of valve guides is best carriedout by an engine overhaul specialist.10 If the valve seats are to be re-cut, thismust be done only after the guides have beenrenewed.

Valves11 Examine the head of each valve forpitting, burning, cracks and general wear, andcheck the valve stem for scoring and wearridges. Rotate the valve, and check for anyobvious indication that it is bent. Look for pitsand excessive wear on the tip of each valvestem. Renew any valve that shows any suchsigns of wear or damage.12 If the valve appears satisfactory at thisstage, measure the valve stem diameter at

2C•10 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

8.2 V6 engine cylinder head and rocker gear components

1 Exhaust manifold heatshield bolt

2 Exhaust manifold heatshield

3 Manifold nut4 Exhaust manifold5 Gasket6 Crank/angle sensor bolts7 Crank/angle sensor8 Blanking plug and seal

9 Bolt for rocker shaftremoval

10 Rocker shaft11 Spacer springs12 Rocker arm13 Guide plate bolts14 Guide plates16 Collets18 Spring top cups19 Valve springs20 Valves

22 Oil seal23 Spring seats24 Blanking plugs25 Oil restrictor26 O-ring27 Oil plug28 O-ring29 Blanking plugs30 Spring31 Relief valve

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several points, using a micrometer (seeillustration). Any significant difference in thereadings obtained indicates wear of the valvestem. Should any of these conditions beapparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.13 If the valves are in satisfactory condition,they should be ground (lapped) into theirrespective seats, to ensure a smooth gas-tightseal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if it hasbeen re-cut, fine grinding compound onlyshould be used to produce the required finish.Coarse valve-grinding compound should not beused unless a seat is badly burned or deeplypitted; if this is the case, the cylinder head andvalves should be inspected by an expert, todecide whether seat re-cutting, or even therenewal of the valve or seat insert, is required.14 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.Place the cylinder head upside-down on abench, with a block of wood at each end togive clearance for the valve stems.15 Smear a trace of (the appropriate gradeof) valve-grinding compound on the seat face,and press a suction grinding tool onto thevalve head. With a semi-rotary action, grindthe valve head to its seat, lifting the valveoccasionally to redistribute the grindingcompound.

16 If coarse grinding compound is beingused, work only until a dull, matt even surfaceis produced on both the valve seat and thevalve, then wipe off the used compound, andrepeat the process with fine compound. Whena smooth unbroken ring of light grey mattfinish is produced on both the valve and seat,the grinding operation is complete. Do notgrind in the valves any further than absolutelynecessary, or the seat will be prematurelysunk into the cylinder head.17 When all the valves have been ground-in,carefully wash off all traces of grindingcompound, using paraffin or solvent, beforereassembly of the cylinder head.

Valve components and rocker gear18 Examine the valve springs for signs ofdamage and discolouration, and also measure

their free length by comparing each of theexisting springs with a new component.19 Stand each spring on a flat surface, andcheck it for squareness. If any of the springsare damaged, distorted, or have lost theirtension, obtain a complete set of new springs.20 Check the spring upper seats and colletsfor obvious wear and cracks. Anyquestionable parts should be renewed, asextensive damage will occur if they fail duringengine operation. Any damaged orexcessively-worn parts must be renewed; thevalve spring lower seat/stem oil seals must berenewed as a matter of course whenever theyare disturbed.21 Check the rocker shaft on V6 engines forstraightness and for any obvious sign ofscoring where the rockers contact. Similarlycheck the rocker bore and the fit of the rockeron the shaft. Renew any suspect parts.

10 Cylinder head - reassembly 4

1 Before reassembling the cylinder head, firstensure that it is perfectly clean and no tracesof grinding paste are left in the head or on thevalves and guides. Use compressed air, ifavailable, to blow out all the oil holes andpassages.2 Commence reassembly of the cylinderhead by lubricating the valve stems andguides with clean engine oil.3 With the valves and valve seats prepared,and with the valves in their correct order,commence reassembly, starting with the firstvalve of No 1 cylinder as follows.4 Place the valve spring seat in position, thenfit a new oil seal over the valve guide, pushingit fully into position.5 Lubricate the valve stem with engine oil,then insert the valve into its guide.6 Fit the valve spring(s), and place the topcup over the spring and valve.7 Using the compressor tool, compress thevalve spring until the two collets can be slidinto position. Release the compressorcarefully, in order not to displace the collets.8 Refit the remaining valves in the same way.When they are all fitted, tap the end of each

valve stem with a plastic mallet to settle thecomponents.

11 Piston/connecting rodassemblies (4-cylinderengine) - removal

3Note: Always check first what replacementparts are available before planning anyoverhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a goodengine reconditioning specialist/automotiveparts supplier, may be able to suggestalternatives which will enable you to overcomethe lack of replacement parts.1 Remove the cylinder head, the sump, andthe oil pick-up pipe as described in Part A ofthis Chapter.2 Turn the crankshaft by means of the pulleybolt, until No 1 and No 4 pistons are at thebottom of their stroke.3 Using a knife or scraper, clean the carbonridge from the top of the cylinder bore, tofacilitate removal of the piston.4 Mark the No 1 cylinder connecting rod andcap on their sides, using a centre-punch andhammer, to indicate the cylinder the assemblyis fitted to, and also the fitted relationship of thecap to the rod. Note: Any markings that mayappear on the rod and cap are often cylinderbore size codes and not necessarily theposition of the assembly in the engine. Alwaysmake your own marks to avoid confusion.5 Undo the big-end cap nuts on No 1connecting rod, then remove the cap,complete with the lower bearing shell (seeillustration). If the cap is difficult to remove,tap it from side to side with a plastic mallet.6 Push the piston/connecting rod upwardswith the aid of the wooden handle of ahammer or similar tool, then withdraw theassembly from the top of the cylinder bore(see illustration).7 Refit the bearing cap and shell to theconnecting rod after removal.8 Repeat paragraphs 3 to 7 for No 4connecting rod.9 Turn the crankshaft back through half aturn, until No 2 and No 3 pistons are at thebottom of their stroke.10 Repeat paragraphs 3 to 7 for No 2 and No 3 connecting rods.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•11

11.6 Removing the piston and connectingrod assembly

11.5 Removing the connecting rod capand big-end bearing shell

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9.12 Measuring the valve stem diameter

A light spring placed underthe valve head will greatlyease the grinding operation.

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12 Piston/connecting rodassemblies (V6 engine) -removal

3The procedure is the same as described in

the previous Section for 4-cylinder engines,but turn the crankshaft as necessary untileach pair of pistons are at the bottom of theirstroke and their connecting rod caps areaccessible. On later engines it will benecessary to remove the oil baffle retainingbolts and remove the baffle for access to thecrankshaft components.

13 Crankshaft (4-cylinderengine) - removal 3

Note: The crankshaft can be removed onlyafter the engine has been removed from thevehicle. It is assumed that the transmission,flywheel/driveplate, adaptor plate, timing belt,cylinder head, sump, oil pump pick-up/strainer, oil pump, and piston/connectingrod assemblies, have already been removed.1 Before the crankshaft is removed, checkthe endfloat. Mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator,or dial gauge) with the stem in line with thecrankshaft and just touching the crankshaft.2 Push the crankshaft fully away from thegauge, and zero it. Next, lever the crankshafttowards the gauge as far as possible, andcheck the reading obtained. The distance that

the crankshaft moved is its endfloat; if it isgreater than specified, check the crankshaftthrust surfaces for wear. If no wear is evident,new thrustwashers should correct theendfloat.3 Feeler gauges can be used if no dial gaugeis available. Lever or push the crankshaft allthe way towards the right-hand end of theengine. Slip feeler gauges between thecrankshaft and the main bearing incorporatingthe thrustwashers to determine the clearance(see illustration).4 Withdraw the crankcase breather tubeelbow from the outside of the cylinder block(see illustration).5 From within the crankcase, remove thecrankcase breather extension tube (seeillustration). To do this, move the tube fromside to side to release the sealing compound,then tap it out using a dowel rod insertedthrough the elbow aperture.6 Note that the main bearing caps have theirnumbers cast on the face of each cap, and inaddition, Nos 2, 3 and 4 have arrowsindicating their fitted direction (seeillustration).7 Undo the main bearing cap retaining bolts,one turn at a time, then when all are slack,remove the bolts.8 Lift away each main bearing cap and thebottom half of each bearing shell, taking careto keep the bearing shell with the right cap. Ifthe caps are tight, tap them on their sides witha plastic mallet to release them from thelocating dowels.

9 When removing the centre main bearingcap, note the bottom semi-circular halves ofthe thrustwashers, one located on each sideof the cap. Lay them, with the centre bearingcap, along the correct side.10 Lift out the crankshaft, followed by thebearing shell upper halves and thethrustwashers. Keep the bearing shells andthrustwashers with their correct caps.

14 Crankshaft (V6 engine) -removal 3

Note: The crankshaft can be removed onlyafter the engine has been removed from thevehicle. It is assumed that the transmission,flywheel/driveplate, rear oil seal carrier, timingbelt, cylinder head, sump, oil pump pick-up/strainer, oil pump, and piston/connectingrod assemblies, have already been removed.1 Before removing the crankshaft, check theendfloat as described in the previous Section.2 Where fitted, undo the bolts and removethe oil baffle from the bottom of thecrankcase. Undo the eight oil gallery retainingbolts and lift the oil gallery off the mainbearing caps. Collect the four O-rings fromthe base of the gallery (see illustration).3 Using a hammer and centre punch, markthe main bearing caps, 1 to 4 and make amark to indicate their fitted direction in thecrankcase.4 Undo the main bearing cap retaining bolts,two on the bottom and two on the side, oneturn at a time; when all are slack, remove thebolts.5 Screw in two oil gallery bolts into each mainbearing cap and pull up on the bolts towithdraw the caps from their locations (seeillustration). Lift away each main bearing capand the bottom half of each bearing shell,taking care to keep the bearing shell with theright cap. Remove the oil gallery bolts afterremoving the caps.6 Lift out the crankshaft, followed by thebearing shell upper halves and the twothrustwashers from the No 4 journal location.Keep the bearing shells and thrustwasherswith their correct caps.

15 Cylinder block/crankcase -cleaning and inspection 3

Note: Always check first what replacementparts are available before planning anyoverhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a goodengine reconditioning specialist/automotiveparts supplier may be able to suggestalternatives which will enable you to overcomethe lack of replacement parts.

Cleaning1 Prior to cleaning, remove all externalcomponents and senders, and any galleryplugs or caps that may be fitted.

2C•12 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

13.6 Main bearing cap identificationnumber and direction arrow

13.5 Remove the crankcase breather tubeextension tube

13.4 Withdraw the crankcase breathertube elbow

13.3 Checking crankshaft endfloat usingfeeler gauges

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2 If any of the castings are extremely dirty, allshould be steam-cleaned.3 After the castings are returned from steam-cleaning, clean all oil holes and oil galleriesone more time. Flush all internal passageswith warm water until the water runs clear,then dry thoroughly, and apply a light film ofoil to all machined surfaces, to preventrusting. If you have access to compressed air,use it to speed the drying process, and toblow out all the oil holes and galleries.

Warning: Wear eye protectionwhen using compressed air!

4 If the castings are not very dirty, you can doan adequate cleaning job with hot soapywater (as hot as you can stand!) and a stiffbrush. Take plenty of time, and do a thoroughjob. Regardless of the cleaning method used,be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries verythoroughly, and to dry all componentscompletely; protect the machined surfaces asdescribed above, to prevent rusting.5 All threaded holes must be clean and dry,

to ensure accurate torque readings duringreassembly; now is also a good time to cleanand check the threads of all principal bolts.6 When all inspection and repair proceduresare complete (see below) and the block isready for reassembly, refit the main bearingcaps, and tighten the bolts finger-tight.7 If the engine is not going to be reassembledright away, cover it with a large plastic bag tokeep it clean; protect the machined surfacesas described above, to prevent rusting.

Inspection8 Visually check the castings for cracks andcorrosion. Look for stripped threads in thethreaded holes. If there has been any historyof internal coolant leakage, it may beworthwhile having an engine overhaulspecialist check the cylinder block/crankcasefor cracks with special equipment. If defectsare found, have them repaired, if possible, orrenew the assembly.9 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing andscoring.10 Noting that the cylinder bores must be

measured with all the crankshaft main bearingcaps bolted in place (without the crankshaftand bearing shells), to the specified torquewrench settings, measure the diameter ofeach cylinder at the top (just under the ridgearea), centre and bottom of the cylinder bore,parallel to the crankshaft axis. Next, measureeach cylinder’s diameter at the same threelocations across the crankshaft axis. Note themeasurements obtained.11 Measure the piston diameter at right-angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just above thebottom of the skirt; again, note the results.12 If it is wished to obtain the piston-to-boreclearance, measure the bore and piston skirt asdescribed above, and subtract the skirtdiameter from the bore measurement. If theprecision measuring tools shown are notavailable, the condition of the pistons andbores can be assessed, though not quite asaccurately, by using feeler gauges as follows.Select a feeler gauge of thickness equal to thespecified piston-to-bore clearance, and slip itinto the cylinder along with the matchingpiston. The piston must be positioned exactlyas it normally would be. The feeler gauge mustbe between the piston and cylinder on one ofthe thrust faces (at right-angles to the gudgeonpin bore). The piston should slip through thecylinder (with the feeler gauge in place) withmoderate pressure; if it falls through or slidesthrough easily, the clearance is excessive, anda new piston will be required. If the pistonbinds at the lower end of the cylinder, and isloose toward the top, the cylinder is tapered. Iftight spots are encountered as the piston/feelergauge is rotated in the cylinder, the cylinder isout-of-round (oval).13 Repeat these procedures for theremaining pistons and cylinder bores.14 Compare the results with theSpecifications at the beginning of thisChapter; if any measurement is beyond thedimensions specified for that class, or if anybore measurement is significantly differentfrom the others (indicating that the bore istapered or oval), the piston or bore isexcessively-worn.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•13

14.5 Using oil gallery bolts to withdraw themain bearing caps

14.2 Main bearing, oil gallery and related components on V6 engines

1 Oil baffle retaining bolt2 Oil baffle3 Pick-up/strainer retaining

bolt4 Oil pump pick-up/strainer

5 O-ring6 Main bearing/oil gallery bolt7 Main bearing/oil gallery bolt8 Pipe elbow bolt9 Oil pipe elbow

10 O-ring11 Oil gallery12 O-ring13 Main bearing shell

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15 If any of the cylinder bores are badlyscuffed or scored, or if they are excessively-worn, out-of-round or tapered, the usualcourse of action would be to have the cylinderblock/crankcase rebored, and to fit new,oversized, pistons on reassembly. See adealer or engine reconditioning specialist foradvice.16 If the bores are in reasonably goodcondition and not excessively-worn, then itmay only be necessary to renew the pistonrings.17 If this is the case, the bores should behoned, to allow the new rings to bed incorrectly and provide the best possible seal.Honing is an operation that will be carried outfor you by an engine reconditioning specialist.18 After all machining operations arecompleted, the entire block/crankcase mustbe washed very thoroughly with warm soapywater to remove all traces of abrasive gritproduced during the machining operations.When the cylinder block/crankcase iscompletely clean, rinse it thoroughly and dryit, then lightly oil all exposed machinedsurfaces, to prevent rusting.19 The cylinder block/crankcase should nowbe completely clean and dry, with allcomponents checked for wear or damage,and repaired or overhauled as necessary.Refit as many ancillary components aspossible, for safekeeping. If reassembly is notto start immediately, cover the block with alarge plastic bag to keep it clean, and protectthe machined surfaces as described above toprevent rusting.

16 Piston/connecting rodassemblies - inspection 4

Note: Always check first what replacementparts are available before planning anyoverhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a goodengine reconditioning specialist/automotiveparts supplier may be able to suggestalternatives which will enable you to overcomethe lack of replacement parts.1 Before the inspection process can becarried out, the piston/connecting rodassemblies must be cleaned, and the originalpiston rings removed from the pistons. Therings should have smooth, polished workingsurfaces, with no dull or carbon-coatedsections (showing that the ring is not sealingcorrectly against the bore wall, so allowingcombustion gases to blow by) and no tracesof wear on their top and bottom surfaces. Theend gaps should be clear of carbon, but notpolished (indicating a too-small end gap), andall the rings (including the elements of the oilcontrol ring) should be free to rotate in theirgrooves, but without excessive up-and-downmovement. If the rings appear to be in goodcondition, they are probably fit for further use;check the end gaps (in an unworn part of thebore). If any of the rings appears to be worn or

damaged, or has an end gap significantlydifferent from the specified value, the usualcourse of action is to renew all of them as aset. Note: While it is usual always to renewpiston rings when an engine is overhauled,this of course assumes that rings are availableseparately - if not, it follows that great caremust be taken not to break or damage any ofthe rings during the following procedures, andto ensure that each ring is marked on removalso that it is refitted only the original way up,and only to the same groove.2 Using a piston ring installation tool,carefully remove the rings from the pistons. Ifsuch a tool is not available, the rings can beremoved by hand, expanding them over thetop of the pistons. The use of two or three oldfeeler blades will be helpful in preventing therings dropping into empty grooves. Be carefulnot to nick or gouge the pistons in theprocess, and mark or label each ring as it isremoved, so that its original top surface canbe identified on reassembly, and that it can bereturned to its original groove.3 Scrape all traces of carbon from the top ofthe piston. A hand-held wire brush or a pieceof fine emery cloth can be used, once themajority of the deposits have been scrapedaway. Do not, under any circumstances, use awire brush mounted in a drill motor to removedeposits from the pistons - the piston materialis soft, and may be eroded away by the wirebrush.4 Use a piston ring groove-cleaning tool toremove carbon deposits from the ringgrooves. If a tool isn’t available, butreplacement rings have been found, a piecebroken off the old ring will do the job. Be verycareful to remove only the carbon deposits -don’t remove any metal, and do not nick orscratch the sides of the ring grooves. Protectyour fingers - piston rings are sharp!5 Once the deposits have been removed,clean the piston/rod assemblies with solvent,and dry them with compressed air (ifavailable). Make sure the oil return holes in theback sides of the ring grooves, and the oilhole in the lower end of each rod, are clear.6 If the pistons and cylinder walls aren’tdamaged or worn excessively, and if thecylinder block/crankcase is not rebored, newpistons won’t be necessary. Normal pistonwear appears as even vertical wear on thepiston thrust surfaces, and slight looseness ofthe top ring in its groove.7 Carefully inspect each piston for cracksaround the skirt, at the pin bosses, and at thering lands (between the ring grooves).8 Look for scoring and scuffing on the thrustfaces of the skirt, holes in the piston crown,and burned areas at the edge of the crown. Ifthe skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine mayhave been suffering from overheating and/orabnormal combustion, which causedexcessively-high operating temperatures. Thecooling and lubrication systems should bechecked thoroughly. A hole in the pistoncrown is an indication that abnormal

combustion (pre-ignition) was occurring.Burned areas at the edge of the piston crownare usually evidence of spark knock(detonation). If any of the above problemsexist, the causes must be corrected, or thedamage will occur again. The causes mayinclude intake air leaks, incorrect fuel/airmixture or incorrect ignition timing.9 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of smallpits, indicates that coolant is leaking into thecombustion chamber and/or the crankcase.Again, the cause must be corrected, or theproblem may persist in the rebuilt engine.10 Check the piston-to-rod clearance bytwisting the piston and rod in oppositedirections. Any noticeable play indicatesexcessive wear, which must be corrected. On4-cylinder “T”-series engines and V6 engines,the piston/connecting rod assemblies shouldbe taken to a Rover dealer or enginereconditioning specialist to have the pistons,gudgeon pins and rods checked, and newcomponents fitted as required.11 On these engines, don’t attempt toseparate the pistons from the connecting rods(even if non-genuine replacements are foundelsewhere). This is a task for a Rover dealer orsimilar engine reconditioning specialist, due tothe special heating equipment, press,mandrels and supports required to do the job.If the piston/connecting rod assemblies dorequire this sort of work, have the connectingrods checked for bend and twist, since onlysuch engine repair specialists will have thefacilities for this purpose.12 On 4-cylinder “M” series engines, thegudgeon pins are retained by circlips and thepistons and connecting rods can beseparated.13 To remove the pistons from theconnecting rods, extract the two gudgeon pinretaining circlips, using a small screwdriver,then push out the gudgeon pin (seeillustration). If the pin is tight, warm thepiston in hot water, which will expand thepiston slightly, enabling the gudgeon pin to bepushed out. As each piston is removed, markit on the inside with a punch, indicating itscylinder number.14 Check the connecting rods for cracks andother damage. Also on 4-cylinder engines,check that the oilway in the base of the

2C•14 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

16.13 Using a small screwdriver to extractthe gudgeon pin circlip

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connecting rod is clear by probing with a pieceof wire. Temporarily remove the big-end bearingcaps and the old bearing shells, wipe clean therod and cap bearing recesses, and inspect themfor nicks, gouges and scratches. After checkingthe rods, replace the old shells, slip the caps intoplace, and tighten the bolts finger-tight.15 To refit the pistons to their connectingrods on “M” series engines, start with No 1and insert the connecting rod into the piston,so that the offset at the gudgeon pin end ofthe rod is towards the side of the pistonmarked FRONT on its top face (seeillustrations). Insert the gudgeon pin, and refitthe retaining circlips. Ensure that the circlipsfully enter their grooves.16 Assemble the No 3 piston and connectingrod in the same way.17 Assemble the No 2 and No 4 pistons andconnecting rods in the same way, but with theoffset at the gudgeon pin end of the rod awayfrom the side of the piston marked FRONT.

17 Crankshaft - inspection 3Note: Always check first what replacementparts are available before planning anyoverhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a goodengine reconditioning specialist/automotiveparts supplier, may be able to suggestalternatives which will enable you to overcomethe lack of replacement parts.1 Clean the crankshaft, and dry it withcompressed air if available.

Warning: Wear eye protectionwhen using compressed air! Besure to clean the oil holes with apipe cleaner or similar probe.

2 Check the main and crankpin (big-end)bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring,pitting and cracking.3 Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oilholes with a stone, file or scraper.4 Using a micrometer, measure the diameterof the main bearing and crankpin (big-end)journals, and compare the results with theSpecifications at the beginning of this Chapter(see illustration).

5 By measuring the diameter at a number ofpoints around each journal’s circumference,you will be able to determine whether or notthe journal is out-of-round. Take themeasurement at each end of the journal, nearthe webs, to determine if the journal istapered.6 If the crankshaft journals are damaged,tapered, out-of-round, or worn beyond thelimits specified in this Chapter, the crankshaftmust be taken to an engine overhaulspecialist, who will regrind it, and who cansupply the necessary undersize bearingshells.7 Check the oil seal journals at each end ofthe crankshaft for wear and damage. If eitherseal has worn an excessive groove in itsjournal, consult an engine overhaul specialist,who will be able to advise whether a repair ispossible, or whether a new crankshaft isnecessary.

18 Main and big-end bearings -inspection 4

Note: Always check first what replacementparts are available before planning anyoverhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a goodengine reconditioning specialist/automotive

parts supplier, may be able to suggestalternatives which will enable you to overcomethe lack of replacement parts.1 Even though the main and big-end bearingshells should be renewed during the engineoverhaul, the old shells should be retained forclose examination, as they may revealvaluable information about the condition ofthe engine (see illustration).2 Bearing failure occurs because of lack oflubrication, the presence of dirt or otherforeign particles, overloading the engine, andcorrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearingfailure, it must be corrected before the engineis reassembled, to prevent it from happeningagain.3 When examining the bearing shells, removethem from the cylinder block/crankcase andmain bearing caps, and from the connectingrods and the big-end bearing caps, then laythem out on a clean surface in the samegeneral position as their location in theengine. This will enable you to match anybearing problems with the correspondingcrankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell’sbearing surface with your fingers whilechecking it, or the delicate surface may bescratched.4 Dirt or other foreign matter gets into theengine in a variety of ways. It may be left inthe engine during assembly, or it may pass

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•15

17.4 Measuring the main bearing journaldiameters

16.15b The pistons are marked FRONT ontheir top face (arrowed) on “M” series

4-cylinder engines

16.15a Connecting rod offset and oil squirthole relationship on “M” series 4-cylinder

engines

18.1 Typical bearing failures

A Scratched by dirt; dirt embedded in bearingmaterial

B Lack of oil; overlay wiped outC Improper seating: bright (polished) sections

D Tapered journal; overlay gone from entiresurface

E Radius rideF Fatigue failure: craters or pockets

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through filters or the crankcase ventilationsystem. It may get into the oil, and from thereinto the bearings. Metal chips from machiningoperations and normal engine wear are oftenpresent. Abrasives are sometimes left inengine components after reconditioning,especially when parts are not thoroughlycleaned using the proper cleaning methods.Whatever the source, these foreign objectsoften end up embedded in the soft bearingmaterial, and are easily recognized. Largeparticles will not embed in the material, andwill score or gouge the shell and journal. Thebest prevention for this cause of bearingfailure is to clean all parts thoroughly, and tokeep everything spotlessly-clean duringengine assembly. Frequent and regular engineoil and filter changes are also recommended.5 Lack of lubrication (or lubricationbreakdown) has a number of inter-relatedcauses. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),overloading (which squeezes the oil from thebearing face) and oil leakage (from excessivebearing clearances, worn oil pump or highengine speeds) all contribute to lubricationbreakdown. Blocked oil passages, whichusually are the result of misaligned oil holes ina bearing shell, will also starve a bearing of oil,and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is thecause of bearing failure, the bearing materialis wiped or extruded from the shell’s steelbacking. Temperatures may increase to thepoint where the steel backing turns blue fromoverheating.6 Driving habits can have a definite effect onbearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation(labouring the engine) puts very high loads onbearings, which tends to squeeze out the oilfilm. These loads cause the shells to flex,which produces fine cracks in the bearingface (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearingmaterial will loosen in pieces, and tear awayfrom the steel backing. Short-distance drivingleads to corrosion of bearings, becauseinsufficient engine heat is produced to driveoff condensed water and corrosive gases.These products collect in the engine oil,forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carriedto the engine bearings, the acid attacks andcorrodes the bearing material.7 Incorrect shell refitting during engineassembly will lead to bearing failure as well.Tight-fitting shells leave insufficient bearing

running clearance, and will result in oilstarvation. Dirt or foreign particles trappedbehind a bearing shell result in high spots onthe bearing, which lead to failure. Do nottouch any shell’s bearing surface with yourfingers during reassembly; there is a risk ofscratching the delicate surface, or ofdepositing particles of dirt on it.

19 Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence

1 Before reassembly begins ensure that allnew parts have been obtained and that allnecessary tools are available. Read throughthe entire procedure to familiarise yourselfwith the work involved, and to ensure that allitems necessary for reassembly of the engineare at hand. In addition to all normal tools andmaterials, jointing and thread lockingcompound will be needed in some areasduring engine reassembly. In all other cases,provided the relevant mating surfaces areclean and flat, new gaskets will be sufficient toensure joints are oil-tight. Do not use any kindof silicone-based sealant on any part of thefuel system or inlet manifold, and never useexhaust sealants upstream of the catalyticconverter.2 In order to save time and avoid problems,engine reassembly can be carried out in thefollowing order (as applicable).(a) Crankshaft and main bearings.(b) Engine adaptor plate or rear oil seal

carrier.(c) Pistons and connecting rods.(d) Oil pump.(e) Sump.(f) Flywheel/driveplate.(g) Cylinder head(s).(h) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets.(i) Timing sprockets, tensioners and belt.(j) Engine external components.3 Ensure that everything is clean prior toreassembly. As mentioned previously, dirt andmetal particles can quickly destroy bearingsand result in major engine damage. Use cleanengine oil to lubricate during reassembly.

20 Piston rings - refitting 31 Before installing new piston rings, checkthe end gaps. Lay out each piston set with apiston/connecting rod assembly, and keepthem together as a matched set from now on.2 Insert the top compression ring into the firstcylinder, and square it up with the cylinderwalls by pushing it in with the top of thepiston. The ring should be near the bottom ofthe cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel.3 To measure the end gap, slip feeler gaugesbetween the ends of the ring, until a gaugeequal to the gap width is found (seeillustration). The feeler gauge should slide

between the ring ends with a slight amount ofdrag. Compare the measurement to the valuegiven in the Specifications Section of thisChapter; if the gap is larger or smaller thanspecified, double-check to make sure youhave the correct rings before proceeding. Ifyou are assessing the condition of used rings,have the cylinder bores checked andmeasured by a Rover dealer or similar enginereconditioning specialist, so that you can besure of exactly which component is worn, andseek advice as to the best course of action totake.4 If the end gap is still too small, it must beopened up by careful filing of the ring endsusing a fine file. If it is too large, this is not asserious, unless the specified limit is exceeded,in which case very careful checking isrequired of the dimensions of all components,as well as of the new parts.5 Repeat the procedure for each ring that willbe installed in the first cylinder, and for eachring in the remaining cylinders. Remember tokeep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.6 Refit the piston rings as follows. Where theoriginal rings are being refitted, use the marksor notes made on removal, to ensure thateach ring is refitted to its original groove andthe same way up. New rings generally havetheir top surfaces identified by markings(often an indication of size, such as “STD”, orthe word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted withsuch markings uppermost. Note: Alwaysfollow the instructions printed on the ringpackage or box - different manufacturers mayrequire different approaches. Do not mix upthe top and second compression rings, asthey usually have different cross-sections.7 The oil control ring (lowest one on thepiston) is usually installed first. It is composedof three separate elements. Slip thespacer/expander into the groove. If an anti-rotation tang is used, make sure it is insertedinto the drilled hole in the ring groove. Next,install the lower side rail. Don’t use a pistonring installation tool on the oil ring side rails,as they may be damaged. Instead, place oneend of the side rail into the groove betweenthe spacer/expander and the ring land, hold itfirmly in place, and slide a finger around thepiston while pushing the rail into the groove.Next, install the upper side rail in the samemanner.8 After the three oil ring components havebeen installed, check that both the upper andlower side rails can be turned smoothly in thering groove.9 The second compression (middle) ring isinstalled next, followed by the topcompression ring - ensure their marks areuppermost, and be careful not to confusethem. Don’t expand either ring any more thannecessary to slide it over the top of the piston.10 When all the rings are in place set the ringgaps as follows:4-cylinder “M” series engines - set the

compression ring gaps at 90º to eachother, and away from the thrust side of

2C•16 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

20.3 Measuring piston ring end gap

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the piston. Position the gaps of the two oilcontrol rails and the expander at 90º toeach other.

4-cylinder “T” series engines - set thecompression ring gaps at 120º to eachother and away from the inlet valve cut-out side of the piston. Position the gapsof the two oil control rails at 120º to eachother and the gap of the expander at 120ºto the rail gaps. On turbocharged engines,position the oil control rail gap and springgap at 30º on opposite sides of thegudgeon pin axis.

V6 engines - set the compression ring gaps at90º to each other and the oil controlexpander gap at 90º to the top ring gap.Position the oil control rail gaps at 15ºeither side of the expander gap.

21 Crankshaft - refitting andmain bearing runningclearance check

41 It is assumed at this point that the cylinderblock/crankcase and crankshaft have beencleaned, inspected and repaired orreconditioned as necessary. Position theengine upside-down.2 Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and liftout the caps. Lay the caps out in the properorder, to ensure correct installation.3 If they’re still in place, remove the oldbearing shells from the block and the mainbearing caps. Wipe the bearing recesses ofthe block and caps with a clean, lint-freecloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!

Main bearing running clearancecheck4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats inthe crankcase and clean the backs of thebearing shells. Insert the respective uppershells (dry) into position in the crankcase andthe lower shells into their respective caps. Onthe V6 engines, the shells with the oil grovesare fitted to the crankcase, and the plainshells are fitted to the caps. Where the oldmain bearings are being refitted, ensure thatthey are located in their original positions.Make sure the tab on each bearing shell fits

into the notch in the block or cap (seeillustration). Caution: Don’t hammer the shells intoplace, and don’t nick or gouge the bearingfaces. No lubrication should be used atthis time.5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers intoposition in the crankcase so that their oilgrooves are facing outwards (away from thecentral web) (see illustration).6 Clean the bearing surfaces of the shells inthe block, and the crankshaft main bearingjournals with a clean, lint-free cloth. Check orclean the oil holes in the crankshaft, as anydirt here can go only one way - straightthrough the new bearings.7 Once you’re certain the crankshaft is clean,carefully lay it in position in the main bearings.Trim several pieces of the appropriate-sizePlastigage (they must be slightly shorter thanthe width of the main bearings), and place onepiece on each crankshaft main bearingjournal, parallel with the crankshaft centre-line(see illustration).8 Clean the bearing surfaces of the capshells, and install the caps in their respectivepositions (don’t mix them up) with the arrowspointing to the timing belt end of the engine orpositioned according to the marks madeduring removal. Don’t disturb the Plastigage.9 Working on one cap at a time, from thecentre main bearing outwards (and ensuringthat each cap is tightened down squarely andevenly onto the block), tighten the main

bearing cap bolts to the specified torquewrench setting (Chapter 2, Part A). Don’trotate the crankshaft at any time during thisoperation!10 Remove the bolts, and carefully lift off themain bearing caps (on V6 engines, use the oilgallery bolts as before). Keep them in order.Don’t disturb the Plastigage or rotate thecrankshaft.11 Compare the width of the crushedPlastigage on each journal with the scaleprinted on the Plastigage envelope to obtainthe main bearing running clearance (seeillustration). Check the Specifications tomake sure that the clearance is correct.12 If the clearance is not as specified, seekthe advice of a Rover dealer or similar enginereconditioning specialist - if the crankshaftjournals are in good condition, it may bepossible simply to renew the shells to achievethe correct clearance. If this is not possible,the crankshaft must be reground by aspecialist who can supply the necessaryundersized shells. First though, make surethat no dirt or oil was between the bearingshells and the caps or block when theclearance was measured. If the Plastigage isnoticeably wider at one end than the other,the journal may be tapered.13 Carefully scrape all traces of thePlastigage material off the main bearingjournals and the bearing surfaces. Be verycareful not to scratch the bearing - use yourfingernail or the edge of a credit card.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•17

21.7 Plastigage in place on a crankshaftmain bearing journal

21.5 Fitting the crankshaft thrustwashers21.4 Fitting the main bearing shell upperhalves

21.14 Thoroughly lubricate the crankshaftjournals

21.11 Measuring the width of thedeformed Plastigage using the scale on

the card provided

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Final refitting14 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of theengine. Clean the bearing surfaces of theshells in the block, then apply a thin, uniformlayer of clean molybdenum disulphide-basedgrease, engine assembly lubricant, or cleanengine oil to each surface (see illustration).Coat the thrustwasher surfaces as well.15 Lubricate the crankshaft oil seal journalswith molybdenum disulphide-based grease,engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil.16 Make sure the crankshaft journals areclean, then lay the crankshaft back in place inthe block (see illustration). Clean the bearingsurfaces of the shells in the caps, thenlubricate them. Install the caps in theirrespective positions, with the arrows pointingto the timing belt end of the engine or thepreviously made marks positioned correctly.When fitting the centre main bearing cap on4-cylinder engines, ensure that thethrustwashers, generously lubricated, arefitted with their oil grooves facing outwards,and the locating tab of each is engaged withthe slot in the main bearing cap (seeillustration). Apply RTV sealant into thevertical grooves on the edges of Nos 1 and 5main bearing caps, then fit these caps to theirlocations.17 On 4-cylinder engines, working on onecap at a time, from the centre main bearingoutwards (and ensuring that each cap istightened down squarely and evenly onto theblock), tighten the main bearing cap bolts to

the specified torque wrench setting (Chap-ter 2, Part A).18 On V6 engines, tighten the bolts to thespecified torque (Chapter 2, Part A) in thesequence shown (see illustration).19 Rotate the crankshaft a number of timesby hand, to check for any obvious binding.20 Check the crankshaft endfloat. It shouldbe correct if the crankshaft thrust faces aren’tworn or damaged.21 On 4-cylinder engines, apply sealer to thecrankcase breather tube extension, then fitthe tube to its location. Apply sealant to thebreather tube elbow, and fit the elbow,ensuring that it is tapped down until theshoulder contacts the crankcase.22 On V6 engines, refit the oil gallery, usenew O-ring seals and secure with the boltstightened to the specified torque (Chapter 2,Part A).23 Refit the engine oil seal carrier, or adaptorplate and install a new seal (see Part A or B ofthis Chapter according to engine type).

22 Piston/connecting rodassemblies - refitting and big-endbearing running clearance check

41 Before refitting the piston/connecting rodassemblies, the cylinder bores must beperfectly clean, the top edge of each cylindermust be chamfered, and the crankshaft mustbe in place.2 Remove the big-end bearing cap from No 1cylinder connecting rod (refer to the marksnoted or made on removal). Remove theoriginal bearing shells, and wipe the bearing

recesses of the connecting rod and cap with aclean, lint-free cloth. They must be keptspotlessly-clean!

Big-end bearing runningclearance check3 Clean the back of the new upper bearingshell, fit it to the connecting rod, then fit theother shell of the bearing set to the big-endbearing cap. Make sure the tab on each shellfits into the notch in the rod or cap recess. Caution: Don’t hammer the shells intoplace, and don’t nick or gouge the bearingface. Don’t lubricate the bearing at thistime.4 It’s critically important that all matingsurfaces of the bearing components areperfectly clean and oil-free when they’reassembled.5 Position the piston ring gaps as describedin Section 16, lubricate the piston and ringswith clean engine oil, and attach a piston ringcompressor to the piston. Leave the skirtprotruding about a quarter-inch, to guide thepiston into the cylinder bore. The rings mustbe compressed until they’re flush with thepiston.6 Rotate the crankshaft until No 1 crankpin(big-end) journal is at Bottom Dead Centre,and apply a coat of engine oil to the cylinderwalls.7 Arrange the No 1 piston/connecting rodassembly so that the word FRONT or thearrow on the piston crown points to the timingbelt end of the engine. Gently insert theassembly into the No 1 cylinder bore, and restthe bottom edge of the ring compressor onthe engine block.

2C•18 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

21.18 Main bearing cap retaining bolt tightening sequence on V6 engines

21.16b Fitting the crankshaft thrustwasherlower halves to the centre bearing cap on

4-cylinder engines

21.16a Crankshaft installation

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8 Tap the top edge of the ring compressor tomake sure it’s contacting the block around itsentire circumference.9 Gently tap on the top of the piston with theend of a wooden hammer handle (seeillustration), while guiding the connectingrod’s big-end onto the crankpin. The pistonrings may try to pop out of the ringcompressor just before entering the cylinderbore, so keep some pressure on the ringcompressor. Work slowly, and if anyresistance is felt as the piston enters thecylinder, stop immediately. Find out what’sbinding, and fix it before proceeding. Do not,for any reason, force the piston into thecylinder - you might break a ring and/or thepiston.10 To check the big-end bearing runningclearance, cut a piece of the appropriate-sizePlastigage slightly shorter than the width ofthe connecting rod bearing, and lay it in placeon the No 1 crankpin (big-end) journal, parallelwith the crankshaft centre-line.11 Clean the connecting rod-to-cap matingsurfaces, and refit the big-end bearing cap.Tighten the cap bolts to the specified torque(Chapter 2, Part A). Don’t rotate thecrankshaft at any time during this operation!12 Unscrew the bolts and detach the cap,being very careful not to disturb the Plastigage.13 Compare the width of the crushedPlastigage to the scale printed on thePlastigage envelope, to obtain the runningclearance. Compare it to the Specifications,to make sure the clearance is correct.

14 If the clearance is not as specified, seekthe advice of a Rover dealer or similar enginereconditioning specialist - if the crankshaftjournals are in good condition, it may bepossible simply to renew the shells to achievethe correct clearance. If this is not possible,the crankshaft must be reground by aspecialist, who can also supply the necessaryundersized shells. First though, make surethat no dirt or oil was trapped between thebearing shells and the connecting rod or capwhen the clearance was measured. Also,recheck the crankpin diameter. If thePlastigage was wider at one end than theother, the crankpin journal may be tapered.15 Carefully scrape all traces of thePlastigage material off the journal and thebearing surface. Be very careful not to scratchthe bearing - use your fingernail or the edge ofa credit card.

Final piston/connecting rodrefitting16 Make sure the bearing surfaces areperfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer ofclean molybdenum disulphide-based grease,engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil,to both of them. You’ll have to push the pistoninto the cylinder to expose the bearing surfaceof the shell in the connecting rod.17 Slide the connecting rod back into placeon the crankpin (big-end) journal, refit the big-end bearing cap, and then tighten the bolts asdescribed above.18 Repeat the entire procedure for theremaining piston/connecting rod assemblies.19 The important points to remember are:(a) Keep the backs of the bearing shells and

the recesses of the connecting rods andcaps perfectly clean when assemblingthem.

(b) Make sure you have the correctpiston/rod assembly for each cylinder.

(c) The arrow on the piston crown or theword FRONT must face the timing beltend of the engine.

(d) Lubricate the cylinder bores with cleanengine oil.

(e) Lubricate the bearing surfaces whenrefitting the big-end bearing caps after therunning clearance has been checked.

20 After all the piston/connecting rod

assemblies have been properly installed,rotate the crankshaft a number of times byhand, to check for any obvious binding.21 Continue with the engine reassembly inthe sequence given in Section 19.

23 Engine - initial start-up after overhaul 1

1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle,double-check the engine oil and coolantlevels. Make a final check that everything hasbeen reconnected, and that there are no toolsor rags left in the engine compartment.2 Refit the spark plugs, and connect all thespark plug (HT) leads (Chapter 1). Switch onthe ignition and listen for the fuel pump; it willrun for a little longer than usual, due to thelack of pressure in the system.3 Start the engine, noting that this also maytake a little longer than usual, due to the fuelsystem components being empty.4 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,coolant and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed ifthere are some odd smells and smoke fromparts getting hot and burning off oil deposits.If the hydraulic tappets have been disturbed,some valve gear noise may be heard at first;this should disappear as the oil circulates fullyaround the engine, and normal pressure isrestored in the tappets.5 Keep the engine idling until hot water is feltcirculating through the top hose, check that itidles reasonably smoothly and at the usualspeed, then switch it off.6 After a few minutes, recheck the oil andcoolant levels, and top-up as necessary(Chapter 1).7 If they were tightened as described, there isno need to re-tighten the cylinder head boltsonce the engine has first run after reassembly.8 If new components such as pistons, ringsor crankshaft bearings have been fitted, theengine must be run-in for the first 500 miles(800 km). Do not operate the engine at full-throttle, or allow it to labour in any gear during this period. It is recommended that theoil and filter be changed at the end of thisperiod.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•19

2C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

22.9 Refitting the piston and connectingrod assemblies, with the aid of a ring

compressor

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

3

CoolantMixture type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1Cooling system capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Expansion tank capSystem pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 bar

Thermostat4-cylinder engines:

Starts-to-open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76º to 80ºCFully-open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88ºC

V6 engines:Fully-open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78ºC

Air conditioning systemRefrigerant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R12 or R134a

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftWater outlet elbow to thermostat housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Thermostat housing to cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Water pump:

to cylinder block (“M” series engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18housing cover bolts (“T” series engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5to engine plate (V6 engines):

M6x22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16M6x25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Engine mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Timing belt tensioner plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Intercooler to radiator bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Air conditioning condenser pipe unions:

M17 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13M22 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Air conditioning condenser pipe union bolts (From VIN 152206) . . . . . . 10 7Air conditioning compressor pipe unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Air conditioning compressor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Air conditioning compressor pipe bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Air conditioning receiver/dryer pipe unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Air conditioning evaporator pipe unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Chapter 3Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Air conditioning system - general information and precautions . . . . 13Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Air conditioning system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . 14Antifreeze - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Cooling system electrical switches and sensors - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Cooling system checks (coolant leaks, hose condition) .See Chapter 1Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) . .See Chapter 1Electric cooling fan assembly - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . 5General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Heater/air conditioning controls - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 12Heater/ventilation components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11Radiator (4-cylinder engines) - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 7Radiator (V6 engines) - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . 8Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Water pump (4-cylinder engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 9Water pump (V6 engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

3•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

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1 General information

Engine cooling systemThe cooling system is of the pressurized,

pump-assisted thermosyphon type. Thesystem consists of the radiator, water pump,thermostat, electric cooling fan, expansiontank and associated hoses (see illustrations).On “M” series 4-cylinder engines, and V6engines, the impeller type water pump ismounted on the right-hand end of the engine,and is driven by the timing belt. On “T” series4-cylinder engines, the water pump ismounted behind, and driven by, the powersteering pump, which itself is driven by theauxiliary drive belt.

The system functions as follows. Coldcoolant in the bottom of the radiator left-handtank passes, via hoses and pipes, to the waterpump, where it is pumped around the cylinderblock and head passages. After cooling thecylinder bores, combustion surfaces and valveseats, the coolant reaches the underside of thethermostat, which is initially closed, and isdiverted through a bypass hose to the heatermatrix. On 4-cylinder engines, after passingthrough the heater, the coolant travels throughthe water jacket of the inlet manifold or throttlehousing, and to the turbocharger, or to theautomatic transmission fluid cooler whereapplicable, before returning to the water pumpinlet hose. On V6 engines, after passingthrough the heater, the coolant circulatesthrough the engine oil cooler, fuel system fastidle valve, idle control valve, throttle body andinlet manifold and to the automatictransmission fluid cooler, where applicable,before returning to the water pump.

When the engine is cold, the thermostatremains closed, and the coolant onlycirculates as described. When the coolantreaches a predetermined temperature, thethermostat opens, and the coolant passesthrough the top hose to the radiator right-hand tank. As the coolant circulates aroundthe radiator, it is cooled by the inrush of airwhen the car is in forward motion. Airflow issupplemented by the action of the electriccooling fan(s) when necessary. Upon reachingthe left-hand side of the radiator, the coolantis now cooled and the cycle is repeated.

When the engine is at normal operatingtemperature, the coolant expands, and someof it is displaced into the expansion tank. Thiscoolant collects in the tank, and is returned tothe radiator when the system cools.

The electric cooling fan mounted on theradiator is controlled by a thermostatic switch,located in the radiator right-hand side tank. Ata predetermined coolant temperature, theswitch contacts close, thus actuating the fan.On models equipped with air conditioning,additional fans are fitted for cooling of the airconditioning system condenser.

3•2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

1.1a Cooling system layout and flow diagram - 4-cylinder engines

1.1b Cooling system layout - V6 engines

Dark arrows indicate hotcoolant flowLight arrows indicate coldcoolant flow1 Water pump2 Radiator3 Bottom hose

4 Thermostat housing5 Bypass (heater) hose6 Heater hose7 Throttle housing8 Automatic transmission

fluid cooler9 Thermostat open

10 Coolant flow through tophose

11 Cooling fan thermostaticswitch

12 Expansion tank13 Pressure cap

1 Radiator2 Cooling fan thermostatic

switch3 Radiator cooling fan4 Coolant low level switch5 Pressure cap6 Expansion tank

7 Water pump8 Heater hoses9 Water pump inlet pipe

10 Thermostat housing11 Bottom hose12 Top hose13 Oil cooler

14 Oil cooler return pipe15 Bleed screw16 Air conditioning condenser

fan thermostatic switch17 Air conditioning condenser

fan

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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Warning: DO NOT attempt toremove the expansion tank fillercap, or to disturb any part of thecooling system, while it or the

engine is hot, as there is a very great riskof scalding. If the expansion tank filler capmust be removed before the engine andradiator have fully cooled down (eventhough this is not recommended) thepressure in the cooling system must firstbe released. Cover the cap with a thicklayer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowlyunscrew the filler cap until a hissing soundcan be heard. When the hissing hasstopped, showing that pressure isreleased, slowly unscrew the filler capfurther until it can be removed; if morehissing sounds are heard, wait until theyhave stopped before unscrewing the capcompletely. At all times, keep well awayfrom the filler opening.

Warning: If the engine is hot, theelectric cooling fan(s) may startrotating even if the engine is notrunning, so be careful to keep

hands, hair and loose clothing well clearwhen working in the engine compartment.

Heating systemThe heating system consists of a blower fan

and heater matrix (radiator) located in theheater unit, with hoses connecting the heatermatrix to the engine cooling system. Hotengine coolant is circulated through theheater matrix. When the heater temperaturecontrol on the facia is operated, a flap dooropens to expose the heater box to thepassenger compartment. When the blowercontrol is operated, the blower fan forces airthrough the unit according to the settingselected.

Air conditioning systemSee Section 14.

2 Antifreeze - general information

Warning: Do not allow antifreezeto come in contact with yourskin, or with the paintedsurfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off

spills immediately with plenty of water.Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Neverleave antifreeze lying around in an opencontainer, or in puddles on the floor;children and pets are attracted by itssweet smell, and may drink it. Check withlocal authorities about disposing of usedantifreeze - many have collection centreswhich will see that antifreeze is disposedof safely.

The cooling system should be filled with awater/ethylene glycol-based antifreezesolution, of a strength which will preventfreezing down to -25ºC, or lower if the local

climate requires it. Antifreeze also providesprotection against corrosion, and increasesthe coolant boiling point.

The cooling system should be maintainedaccording to the schedule described inChapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not toRover’s specification, old or contaminatedcoolant mixtures are likely to cause damage,and encourage the formation of corrosion andscale in the system. Use distilled water withthe antifreeze, if available - if not, be sure touse only soft water. Clean rainwater issuitable.

Before adding antifreeze, check all hosesand hose connections, because antifreezetends to leak through very small openings.Engines don’t normally consume coolant, so ifthe level goes down, find the cause andcorrect it.

The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-waterwhich you should use depends on the relativeweather conditions. On all V6 engines, and 4-cylinder engines equipped with airconditioning, the mixture should containapproximately 50% antifreeze. On 4-cylinderengines without air conditioning, approxi-mately a 33% antifreeze mixture isrecommended. Antifreeze concentrationsgreater than 55% for V6 engines or 60% for 4-cylinder engines are not recommended asthe efficiency of the cooling system may beimpaired. Consult the mixture ratio chart onthe antifreeze container before addingcoolant. Hydrometers are available at mostautomotive accessory shops to test thecoolant. Use antifreeze which meets thevehicle manufacturer’s specifications.

3 Cooling system hoses -disconnection and renewal 1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before starting work.1 If the checks described in Chapter 1 reveal a faulty hose, it must be renewed asfollows.2 First drain the cooling system (see Chap-ter 1); if the antifreeze is not due for renewal,the drained coolant may be re-used, if it iscollected in a clean container.3 To disconnect any hose, use a pair of pliersto release the spring clamps (or a screwdriverto slacken screw-type clamps), then movethem along the hose clear of the union.Carefully work the hose off its stubs. Thehoses can be removed with relative easewhen new - on an older car, they may havestuck.4 If a hose proves stubborn, try to release itby rotating it on its unions before attemptingto work it off. Gently prise the end of the hosewith a blunt instrument (such as a flat-bladedscrewdriver), but do not apply too much force,and take care not to damage the pipe stubs or hoses. Note in particular that the

radiator hose unions are fragile; do not useexcessive force when attempting to removethe hoses.

5 When refitting a hose, first slide the clampsonto the hose, then work the hose onto itsunions. If the hose is stiff, use soap (orwashing-up liquid) as a lubricant, or soften itby soaking it in boiling water, but take care toprevent scalding.6 Work each hose end fully onto its union,then check that the hose is settled correctlyand is properly routed. Slide each clip alongthe hose until it is behind the union flared end,before tightening it securely.7 Refill the system with coolant (see Chap-ter 1).8 Check carefully for leaks as soon aspossible after disturbing any part of thecooling system.

4 Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting 1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before starting work.

4-cylinder engines

Removal1 Partially drain the cooling system(approximately 2.5 litres), using the proceduredescribed in Chapter 1.2 Slacken the clips and detach the radiatortop hose and expansion tank hose from thewater outlet elbow on the thermostat housing(see illustration).3 Undo the two bolts and remove the water

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•3

4.2 Detach the radiator top hose andexpansion tank hose from the water outlet

elbow

3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

If all else fails, cut thecoolant hose with a sharpknife, then slit it so that itcan be peeled off in two

pieces. While expensive, this ispreferable to buying a new radiator.Check first, however, that a new hoseis readily available.

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outlet elbow (see illustrations). Remove thegasket.4 Withdraw the thermostat from its seat in thehousing (see illustration).5 To remove the housing, disconnect thecoolant temperature sensor wiringmultiplug(s). A single sensor is fitted to earlyengines; two are fitted to later engines.6 Slacken the retaining clips, and disconnectthe heater pipe connecting hose from the sideof the housing.7 Undo the two bolts, and remove thethermostat housing and gasket from thecylinder head (see illustration).

Testing8 Before assuming the thermostat is to blamefor a cooling system problem, check thecoolant level, where applicable the auxiliarydrivebelt tension and condition (see Chap-ter 1) and temperature gauge operation.9 If the engine seems to be taking a long timeto warm up (based on heater output ortemperature gauge operation), the thermostatis probably stuck open. Renew thethermostat.10 If the engine runs hot, use your hand tocheck the temperature of the radiator tophose. If the hose isn’t hot, but the engine is,the thermostat is probably stuck closed,preventing the coolant inside the engine fromescaping to the radiator - renew thethermostat. Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle without athermostat. The lack of a thermostat willslow warm-up time. The engine

management system’s ECU will then stayin warm-up mode for longer thannecessary, causing emissions and fueleconomy to suffer.11 If the radiator top hose is hot, it meansthat the coolant is flowing and the thermostatis open. Consult the “Fault diagnosis” sectionat the front of this manual to assist in tracingpossible cooling system faults.12 If the thermostat remains in the openposition at room temperature, it is faulty, andmust be renewed as a matter of course.13 To test it fully, suspend the (closed)thermostat on a length of string in a containerof cold water, with a thermometer beside it;ensure that neither touches the side or bottomof the container.14 Heat the water, and check thetemperature at which the thermostat begins toopen, or is fully open. Compare this value withthe figures given in the Specifications, thenremove the thermostat and allow it to cooldown; check that it closes fully.15 If the thermostat does not open and closeas described, if it sticks in either position, or ifit does not open at the specified temperature,it must be renewed.

Refitting16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points:(a) Position the unit with its support legs

across the heater outlet pipe.(b) Clean away all traces of old gasket from

the mating faces, and use a new gasket,lightly smeared with jointing compound.

(c) Tighten the water outlet elbow retainingbolts to the specified torque.

(d) Top up the cooling system with referenceto Chapter 1.

V6 engines

Removal17 Refer to Chapter 4, Part D, and removethe air cleaner components as necessary foraccess to the thermostat housing.18 Partially drain the cooling system(approximately 2.5 litres), using the proceduredescribed in Chapter 1.19 Undo the bolt securing the hose supportbracket to the thermostat housing and movethe hoses aside (see illustration).20 Slacken the clip and detach the radiatorhose from the thermostat housing.

3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

4.19 Thermostat and housing components on V6 engines4.7 Removing the thermostat housing

4.4 Withdraw the thermostat from thehousing

4.3b . . . and remove the water outletelbow

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4.3a Undo the two retaining bolts . . .

1 Bottom hose clip2 Bottom hose3 Hose support

bracket bolt4 Thermostat

housing bolt5 Thermostat

housing6 Thermostat

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21 Undo the three bolts and remove thethermostat housing and gasket.22 Withdraw the thermostat from its seat inthe housing.

Testing23 Refer to the procedures described abovefor 4-cylinder engines.

Refitting24 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat the housing mating surfaces are cleanand use a new gasket.

5 Electric cooling fanassembly - testing, removaland refitting 5

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before starting work.Note: On cars equipped with air conditioning,a second cooling fan for the condenser ismounted alongside the main cooling fan forthe radiator The following procedures areapplicable to both types of installation.

Testing1 The cooling fans are controlled by complexcircuitry and their operation is dependant on anumber of factors. Single or twin fans may befitted, with variable speed operation.Numerous sensors used in conjunction withthe engine management system and, where

fitted, the air conditioning system determinetheir operating temperature and at whatspeed they will run.2 If it is suspected that the cooling fan(s) arenot operating when high engine temperaturewould normally require them to do so, checkthe relevant fuses and relays (see Chapter 12)and ensure that all wiring connections areclean and soundly made.3 Further testing can really only be carried outsuccessfully using Rover test equipment andshould therefore be entrusted to a dealer.

Removal4 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, removethe radiator grille as described in Chapter 11,Section 19.5 On turbocharged and V6 engines, removethe engine undertray.6 Undo the two bolts each side securing thecentre platform to the body side members(see illustration).7 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securingthe bonnet safety catch to the centre platform(see illustration).8 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn itover, and cut off the cable ties securing thebonnet release cable to the platformunderside (see illustration). Remove theplatform from the car.9 Disconnect the cooling fan multiplug at thewiring connector (see illustration).10 Undo the three retaining nuts (four onturbocharged engines), then carefully lift out

the cooling fan assembly (see illustrations).Note that the cooling fan, motor and cowl area balanced assembly, and should not bedismantled. Should renewal be necessary, allthree components are supplied as anassembled unit.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

6 Cooling system electricalswitches and sensors -removal and refitting 1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before starting work.

Cooling fan thermostatic switchNote: On cars equipped with air conditioning,a second thermostatic switch for thecondenser fan is mounted in the radiator sidetank, below the main thermostatic switch forthe radiator cooling fan. The followingprocedures are applicable to both types ofinstallation.

Removal1 Partially drain the cooling system(approximately 2.5 litres), as described inChapter 12 Disconnect the two wires, remove theswitch retaining ring, which is a bayonet

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•5

5.8 Cut off the cable ties securing thebonnet release cable

5.7 Remove the bonnet safety catch fromthe centre platform

5.6 Centre platform retaining bolts - right-hand side (arrowed)

5.10b Removing the cooling fan assembly5.10a Cooling fan upper retaining nut(arrowed)

5.9 Disconnect the cooling fan multiplugat the wiring connector

3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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fitting, and withdraw the switch and seal fromthe radiator (see illustration).

Refitting3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but renewthe seal if the old one has deteriorated. Topup the cooling system as described inChapter 1.

Coolant temperature sensors

Removal4 The coolant temperature sensors containan element, the resistance of which alters

according to coolant temperature. The unitscontrol the operation of the temperaturegauge, and are also used by the fuel andignition system control units to determineengine temperature. Depending on the enginemanagement system fitted, either a singlesensor performs both functions, or a separatesensor is used for each.5 On 4-cylinder engines either a singlesensor, or two sensors are located on thethermostat housing. On V6 engines a singlesensor is located in a coolant passage on topof the engine, just below the distributor.6 Partially drain the cooling system(approximately 2.5 litres) as described inChapter 1.7 Disconnect the wiring multiplug, thenunscrew the relevant sensor from its location(see illustrations).

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refillthe cooling system as described in Chap-ter 1.

7 Radiator (4-cylinder engines)- removal, inspection andrefitting

1Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before starting work.

Radiator - normally aspiratedengines

Removal1 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1. Leave the bottom radiator hosedisconnected.2 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnectthe radiator top hose.3 Disconnect the cooling fan motormultiplug(s) at the wiring connector(s).4 Disconnect the wires at the thermostaticswitch(s) just below the top hose outlet.5 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, removethe radiator grille as described in Chapter 11,Section 19.6 Undo the two bolts each side securing thecentre platform to the body side members(see illustration 5.6).

7 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securingthe bonnet safety catch to the centre platform(see illustration 5.7).8 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn itover, and cut off the cable ties securing thebonnet release cable to the platformunderside. Remove the platform from the car.9 Lift the radiator upwards, and carefullyremove it from the car.10 With the radiator removed, it can beinspected for leaks and damage. If it needsrepair, have a radiator specialist or dealerservice department perform the work, asspecial techniques are required. Clear thematrix of flies and small leaves with a softbrush, or by hosing.11 Reverse-flush the radiator, as describedin Chapter 1. Renew the top and bottomhoses and clips if they are damaged or havedeteriorated.

Refitting12 Refitting the radiator is a reversal ofremoval, but ensure that the lower mountinglugs engage in the rubber grommets, and thecentre platform grommets locate over theradiator upper lugs (see illustrations). Re-secure the bonnet release cable to the centreplatform, using new cable ties. Oncompletion, fill the cooling system asdescribed in Chapter 1.

3•6 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

7.12b . . . and the centre platformgrommets (arrowed) locate over the

radiator upper lugs

7.12a Ensure that the radiator lower lugs(arrowed) engage with the rubber

grommets . . .

6.7b Coolant temperature sensor location on V6 engines

1 Wiring multiplug 2 Temperature sensor

6.7a Disconnecting the coolanttemperature sensor multiplug on the

4-cylinder engine

2 Top hose retaining clip

4 Wiring connectors

10 Switch retainingring

11 Switch12 Seal

6.2 Cooling fan thermostatic switchcomponents

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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Radiator and intercooler -turbocharged engines

Removal13 Remove the right-hand headlight lens unitas described in Chapter 12, Section 7.14 Remove the air cleaner components, asnecessary for access to the radiator, asdescribed in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.15 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1. Leave the bottom radiator hosedisconnected.16 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnectthe radiator top hose.17 Disconnect the cooling fan motormultiplug(s) at the wiring connector(s).18 Disconnect the wires at the thermostaticswitch(s) just below the top hose outlet.19 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, removethe radiator grille as described in Chapter 11,Section 19.20 Undo the two bolts each side securing thecentre platform to the body side members.21 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securingthe bonnet safety catch to the centreplatform.22 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn itover, and cut off the cable ties securing thebonnet release cable to the platformunderside. Remove the platform from the car.23 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect thecoolant outlet hose at the turbocharger.24 Slacken the retaining clip and remove theair intake hose from the turbocharger.25 Slacken the two clips and remove the airintake and outlet hoses from the intercooler.26 Lift the radiator and intercooler upwards,and carefully remove the assembly from the car.27 If required, remove the upper and lowermounting bolts and nuts and separate theintercooler from the radiator.28 With the radiator removed, it can beinspected for leaks and damage. If it needsrepair, have a radiator specialist or dealerservice department perform the work, as specialtechniques are required. Clear the matrix of fliesand small leaves with a soft brush, or by hosing.29 Reverse-flush the radiator, as describedin Chapter 1. Renew the top and bottomhoses and clips if they are damaged or havedeteriorated.

Refitting30 Refitting the radiator and intercooler is areversal of removal, but ensure that the lowermounting lugs engage in the rubbergrommets, and the centre platform grommetslocate over the radiator upper lugs. Re-securethe bonnet release cable to the centreplatform, using new cable ties. Oncompletion, fill the cooling system asdescribed in Chapter 1.

8 Radiator (V6 engines) -removal, inspection andrefitting 1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before starting work.

Removal1 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1. Leave the bottom radiator hosedisconnected.2 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, removethe radiator grille as described in Chapter 11,Section 19.3 Undo the two bolts each side securing thecentre platform to the body side members(see illustration 5.6).4 On vehicles with air conditioning, undo thetwo nuts securing the condenser to the frontof the centre platform (see illustration).5 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securingthe bonnet safety catch to the centre platform(see illustration 5.7).6 On vehicles equipped with air conditioning,cut off the cable ties or undo the screws andrelease the support straps, securing thevarious hoses to the centre platform and tothe fan cowl (see illustration).7 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn itover, and cut off the cable ties securing thebonnet release cable to the platformunderside. Remove the platform from the car.8 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnectthe radiator top hose.9 Disconnect the cooling fan motormultiplug(s) at the wiring connector(s).10 Disconnect the wires at the thermostaticswitch(s) just below the top hose outlet.

11 Where applicable, unscrew the union nutsand disconnect the automatic transmission oilcooler pipes from the radiator. Cover thedisconnected pipes and fit blanking plugs tothe radiator ports.12 Lift the radiator upwards, and carefullyremove it from the car.13 With the radiator removed, it can beinspected for leaks and damage. If it needsrepair, have a radiator specialist or dealerservice department perform the work, asspecial techniques are required. Clear thematrix of flies and small leaves with a softbrush, or by hosing.14 Reverse-flush the radiator, as describedin Chapter 1. Renew the top and bottomhoses and clips if they are damaged or havedeteriorated.

Refitting15 Refitting the radiator is a reversal ofremoval, but ensure that the lower mountinglugs engage in the rubber grommets, and thecentre platform grommets locate over theradiator upper lugs (see illustrations 7.12a and7.12b). Re-secure the bonnet release cableand hoses to the centre platform, using newcable ties. On completion, fill the coolingsystem as described in Chapter 1. On modelswith automatic transmission, top up thetransmission fluid as described in Chapter 1.

9 Water pump (4-cylinderengines) - removal and refitting

4Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before starting work.

“M” Series enginesRemoval1 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.2 Remove the timing belt as described inChapter 2, Part A.3 Undo the three remaining bolts securing thelower backplate to the engine, noting that onsome engines, one bolt also retains a breatherhose clip, and one retains an oil pipe clip.Remove the lower backplate (see illustration).

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•7

8.6 Undo the screw and release the hosesupport strap from the fan cowl

8.4 Condenser-to-centre platformretaining nuts (arrowed) on the right-hand

side

9.3 Removing the lower backplate fromthe engine (early metal version shown,

later plastic version similar)

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4 If not already done, undo the centreretaining bolt and remove the timing belttensioner.5 Slacken the clip and detach the water inlethose from the rear of the pump.6 Undo the bolt securing the support strut tothe rear of the pump housing (seeillustration).7 Undo the four bolts securing the right-handengine mounting bracket to the water pump,then remove the bracket (see illustration).8 Undo the remaining two bolts securing thewater pump to the cylinder block (seeillustration).9 Have a container handy to catch anyremaining coolant, then withdraw the pumpfrom the block. If necessary, carefully tap thepump body with a soft-faced mallet to free it.10 With the pump removed, scrape away alltraces of RTV sealant from the pump andcylinder block mating faces, ensuring thatboth are completely clean and dry.11 If the pump is to be renewed, undo thethree bolts or Torx type socket-headedscrews, as applicable, and remove the timingbelt tensioner mounting plate so that it can betransferred to the new pump. Note, however,that it will be necessary to obtain new bolts orscrews, prior to refitting. These are of themicro-encapsulated type incorporatinglocking compound in their threads;consequently, they can only be used once.

Refitting12 If removed, locate the timing belttensioner mounting plate in position, and fit

the three bolts or screws tightened to thespecified torque.Do not attempt to retighten any of the screwsor bolts after the locking compound has set(approximately two minutes), otherwise thelocking properties will be destroyed, and thescrews may loosen in service.13 Apply a thin, continuous bead of RTVsealant to the cylinder block mating face, andlocate the water pump in position (seeillustration).14 Apply thread sealer to the two pumpretaining bolts, and fit them finger-tight at thisstage.15 Apply thread sealer to the four enginemounting bracket-to-pump bolts, fit thebracket and tighten the bolts to the specifiedtorque. Now tighten the two pump bolts fittedpreviously.16 Refit the bolt securing the support strut tothe rear of the pump housing.17 Reconnect the inlet water hose.18 Refit the lower backplate to the engine,and secure with the three bolts.19 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, and refit thetiming belt.20 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt and refill thecooling system as described in Chapter 1.

“T” Series engines

Removal21 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.22 Slacken the clip and detach the waterinlet hose from the rear of the pump cover(see illustration).23 Undo the five bolts and remove the pumpcover from the housing.24 Withdraw the pump assembly from thehousing and, where fitted, collect and discardthe three sealing rings. The sealing rings areused on factory assembly, but Loctite sealeris used instead, when the pump is refitted orrenewed in service.25 Thoroughly clean the sealing ring grooves, removing all traces of any oldsealant (if the pump has been removedpreviously).

Refitting26 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butapply Loctite 405 to the sealing ring grooves,and tighten the retaining bolts to the specifiedtorque. Refill the cooling system as describedin Chapter 1 on completion.

3•8 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

9.22 Water pump components on the “T” series engine1 Hose clip2 Water inlet hose3 Pump cover retaining bolts

4 Water pump cover5 Water pump

6 Sealing rings7 Inner sealing ring9.13 Apply RTV sealant to the cylinder

block mating face

9.8 Undo the remaining two bolts securingthe water pump to the cylinder block

9.7 Undo the four bolts securing the right-hand engine mounting bracket to the

water pump

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

9.6 Undo the bolt (arrowed) securing thesupport strut to the housing

H27493

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10 Water pump (V6 engines) -removal and refitting 4

Note: Due to the layout of the V6 engine andthe limited space available in the enginecompartment, access to most components isextremely limited and may present unforseendifficulties. Read through all the relevantprocedures and familiarize yourself withwhat’s involved before proceeding.Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before starting work.

Removal1 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.2 Remove the timing belt and timing belttensioner as described in Chapter 2, Part B.3 Undo the nine bolts securing the waterpump to the engine front plate, noting thattwo are of a different length than the rest (seeillustration).4 Withdraw the water pump and recover thelarge sealing O-ring.5 Thoroughly clean the mating faces, locatingdowels and O-ring recesses.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use anew sealing O-ring, and tighten the retainingbolts to the specified torque. Refit the timingbelt and tensioner as described in Chapter 2,

Part B, and refill the cooling system asdescribed in Chapter 1.

11 Heater/ventilationcomponents - removal and refitting

1Heater blower motor andhousing assemblyRemoval1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the trim panel under the facia onthe passenger’s side.

3 Open the glovebox, undo the two screwssecuring the glovebox bar, and remove theglovebox.4 Disconnect the air duct from the side of theunit, and recover the seals (see illustration).5 Release the screw cap and undo the faciaretaining bolt at the extreme end, adjacent tothe door aperture.6 Disconnect the blower motor wiringmultiplug (see illustration).7 Disconnect the vacuum hose at thesolenoid (see illustration).8 Undo the two upper bolts and one lowernut securing the heater housing assembly inposition, and remove the unit from under thefacia (see illustrations).

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•9

11.4 Exploded view of the heater blower motor housing assembly

10.3 Water pump retaining bolts (arrowed)on V6 engines

11.8a Undo the two upper bolts (arrowed) . . .

11.7 Solenoid vacuum hose (arrowed)11.6 Blower motor wiring multiplug

3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Fan2 Relay3 Air box4 Vacuum actuator5 Vacuum solenoid6 Seal7 Harness8 Gasket9 Air flap10 Air duct11 Control assembly12 Distribution cable13 Temperature cable

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Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Heater blower motor

Removal10 Remove the blower motor and housingassembly from the car as describedpreviously.11 Extract the clips securing the two halvesof the housing assembly, and lift off the upperhalf.12 Remove the separator plate.

13 Undo the nut and remove the fan from themotor.14 Disconnect the cooling hose and wiringmultiplug from the side of the motor.15 Undo the motor retaining nuts, withdrawthe motor and collect the gasket.

Refitting16 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Heater matrix

Removal17 Remove the facia as described in Chap-ter 11.18 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.19 From within the engine compartment,disconnect the heater hoses at the matrix pipestubs.20 Remove the duct between the heaterblower motor assembly and the matrixhousing. Collect the two seals.21 Extract the retaining stud from the driver’sside footwell duct and remove the duct (seeillustration).22 Extract the two studs securing the rearcompartment duct to the matrix casing, andslide the duct rearwards.

23 Remove the two retaining clips at thebase of the matrix housing.24 Undo the two upper retaining bolts andremove the matrix housing from the car (seeillustration).25 Remove the seal from the top of thehousing.26 Undo the screw and remove the left-handduct.27 Release the clips around the upper faceaperture, and remove the face panel.28 Release the clips securing the two halvesof the matrix housing, and separate thehousing.29 Remove the matrix.

Refitting30 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Heater vacuum servoRemoval31 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).32 Remove the trim panel under the facia onthe passenger’s side.33 Open the glovebox, undo the two screwssecuring the glovebox bar, and remove theglovebox.34 Disconnect the air duct from the side ofthe heater blower assembly, and recover thetwo seals.35 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the servounit.36 Extract the retaining spire clip, andrelease the servo arm from the heater lever.37 Undo the two screws and remove theservo from the heater assembly.

Refitting38 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Heater solenoid valveRemoval39 Proceed as described in paragraphs 31 to34 above.40 Disconnect the vacuum hose at thesolenoid valve.41 Disconnect the solenoid wiring multiplug.42 Undo the retaining screw and remove thesolenoid from the car.

Refitting43 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

3•10 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

11.24 Matrix housing upper retaining bolts(arrowed)

11.21 Exploded view of the matrix and housing assembly

1 Housing assembly2 Clip3 Blend lever

4 Distribution lever5 Heater matrix6 Duct

7 Duct8 Duct9 Duct joint

11.8b . . . and lower nut (arrowed)

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12 Heater/air conditioningcontrols - removal and refitting

1Heater control unit and cables

Removal1 Remove the cowl around the instrumentpanel as described in Chapter 12, Section 9.2 Remove the trim panel under the facia onthe driver’s side.3 Extract the outer cable retaining clips, andslip the cable ends off the heater levers.4 Withdraw the control unit and cables fromthe facia.5 Release the two inner and outer cablesfrom the control unit.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Whenconnecting the heater cables, adjust theposition of the outer cables in their retainingclips so as to give full travel of the heaterlevers, consistent with full travel of the controllevers.

Air conditioning control unit7 Refer to “Instrument cowl switch units” inChapter 12, Section 4.

13 Air conditioning system -general information andprecautions

General informationThe air conditioning system consists of a

condenser mounted in front of the radiator, anevaporator mounted adjacent to the heatermatrix, a compressor mounted on the engine,a receiver/dryer, and the plumbing connectingall of the above components (seeillustration).

A blower fan forces the warmer air of thepassenger compartment through theevaporator core (rather like a radiator inreverse), transferring the heat from the air tothe refrigerant. The liquid refrigerant boils offinto low-pressure vapour, taking the heat withit when it leaves the evaporator.

Two versions of the system are used, thechange point being on models from VIN 152206 onwards. Both versions arevirtually identical in component layout apartfrom minor differences in the condenser pipeconnections. The main difference, however isthat the later version uses the moreenvironmentally friendly R134a refrigerantwhereas the early version uses the ozone-depleting R12.

PrecautionsWarning: The air conditioningsystem is under high pressure.Do not loosen any fittings orremove any components until

after the system has been discharged. Airconditioning refrigerant should be properlydischarged into an approved type ofcontainer, at a dealer service departmentor an automotive air conditioning repairfacility capable of handling the refrigerantsafely. Always wear eye protection whendisconnecting air conditioning systemfittings.

When an air conditioning system is fitted, itis necessary to observe the following specialprecautions whenever dealing with any part ofthe system, its associated components, andany items which necessitate disconnection ofthe system:(a) While the refrigerant used on later models

- R134a - is less damaging to theenvironment than the previously-usedR12, both are very dangerous substances.They must not be allowed into contactwith the skin or eyes, or there is a risk offrostbite. They must also not be

discharged in an enclosed space as thereis a risk of suffocation. The refrigerant isheavier than air, and so must never bedischarged over a pit.

(b) The refrigerant must not be allowed tocome in contact with a naked flame,otherwise a poisonous gas will be created- under certain circumstances, this canform an explosive mixture with air. Forsimilar reasons, smoking in the presenceof refrigerant is highly dangerous,particularly if the vapour is inhaledthrough a lighted cigarette.

(c) Never discharge the system to theatmosphere - R134a is not an ozone-depleting ChloroFluoroCarbon (CFC) as isR12, but is instead a hydrofluorocarbon,which causes environmental damage bycontributing to the “greenhouse effect” ifreleased into the atmosphere.

(d) R134a refrigerant must not be mixed withR12; the system uses different seals and

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•11

13.1 Air conditioning system layout (V6 engine installation shown - 4-cylinder engineinstallation similar)

1 Compressor2 Condenser3 Cooling fans (behind

radiator)4 Receiver/drier5 Evaporator

6 Thermostatic expansionvalve

7 Thermistor8 Heater distribution and

blend unit

9 Blower unit10 High and low pressure

servicing connections11 High pressure switch12 Dual pressure switch

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has different fittings requiring differenttools, so that there is no chance of thetwo types of refrigerant becoming mixedaccidentally.

(e) If for any reason the system must bedisconnected, entrust this task to yourRover dealer or a refrigeration engineer.

(f) It is essential that the system beprofessionally discharged prior to usingany form of heat - welding, soldering,brazing, etc - in the vicinity of the system,before having the vehicle oven-dried at atemperature exceeding 70ºC afterrepainting, and before disconnecting anypart of the system.

14 Air conditioning systemcomponents - removal and refitting

1Warning: Refer to theprecautions given in theprevious Section beforeproceeding.

CondenserRemoval1 Have the refrigerant discharged at a dealerservice department or an automotive airconditioning repair facility.2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(see Chapter 5, Section 1).

3 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, removethe radiator grille as described in Chapter 11,Section 19.4 Undo the two bolts each side securing thecentre platform to the body side members.5 Undo the two nuts securing the condenserto the front of the centre platform (seeillustration).6 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securingthe bonnet safety catch to the centreplatform.7 Cut off the cable ties securing the varioushoses to the centre platform.8 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn itover, and cut off the cable ties securing thebonnet release cable to the platformunderside. Remove the platform from the car.9 On early models, using two spanners, one tounscrew the union nut and a second tocounterhold the relevant pipe, unscrew the pipeunions on the front of the condenser. Wherefitted, recover the O-rings from the pipe unions.Plug or cover the open pipes and condenserports. On later models, undo the two pipe unionretaining bolts and release the pipes. Recoverthe O-rings from the pipe connector ends.10 Undo the bolts from the pipe supportbrackets and move the disconnected pipesaside.11 Lift the condenser upwards, and carefullyremove it from the car.

Refitting12 Refitting the condenser is a reversal of

removal, but ensure that the lower mountinglugs engage in the rubber grommets, and thecentre platform grommets locate over theradiator upper lugs. Re-secure the bonnetrelease cable and hoses to the centreplatform, using new cable ties. Have thesystem evacuated, charged and leak-testedby the specialist who discharged it.

Compressor - 4-cylinder engines

Removal13 Have the refrigerant discharged at adealer service department or an automotiveair conditioning repair facility.14 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).15 Raise the front of the vehicle and securelysupport it on axle stands.16 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (seeChapter 1).17 Remove the alternator as described inChapter 5.18 Undo the bolts securing the alternatorsupport bracket to the compressor and movethe support bracket aside.19 Disconnect the compressor clutch wiringat the in-line connector.20 Unscrew the two pipe unions at the rear ofthe compressor and plug or cover thedisconnected pipes and compressor ports.Where fitted, recover the O-rings from thepipe unions.21 Undo the bolt securing the pipe bracket tothe flange on the underside of thecompressor.22 Undo the upper and lower compressormounting nuts and bolts and remove the unitupwards off the engine.

Refitting23 Refitting the compressor is a reversal ofremoval. Tighten the unions and mountings tothe specified torque. Have the systemevacuated, charged and leak-tested by thespecialist who discharged it.

Compressor - V6 engines

Removal24 Have the refrigerant discharged at adealer service department or an automotiveair conditioning repair facility.25 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).26 Raise the front of the vehicle and securelysupport it on axle stands.27 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (seeChapter 1).28 Disconnect the compressor clutch wiringat the in-line connector (see illustration).29 Undo the four compressor mounting boltsand withdraw the compressor from themounting bracket.30 Undo the two bolts and release the pipemounting flanges from the compressor.Recover the O-rings from the pipe unions andplug or cover the disconnected pipes andcompressor ports.

3•12 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

14.5 Air conditioning condenser mounting and attachment details (early version shown)1 Condenser-to-centre

platform retaining nuts2 Centre platform3 Pipe union nut

4 Pipe union nut5 Pipe union nut6 Bracket

7 Condenser8 Lower mounting lug rubber

grommets

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31 Working under the car, place a jack andblock of wood under the engine to support it,then unscrew the eight bolts that secure theengine longitudinal support member byapproximately 15 mm - it should not benecessary to remove the bolts. Have anassistant lever the support member down togive increased clearance, which will allow thecompressor to be removed from the car.

Refitting32 Refitting the compressor is a reversal ofremoval. Tighten the unions and all mountingsto the specified torque. Have the systemevacuated, charged and leak-tested by thespecialist who discharged it.

Receiver/dryer

Removal33 Have the refrigerant discharged at adealer service department or an automotiveair conditioning repair facility.34 Unscrew the two pipe unions on top ofthe receiver/dryer and plug or cover thedisconnected pipes and receiver/dryer ports(see illustration). Recover the O-rings fromthe pipe unions.35 Undo the three mounting bolts, move theadjacent components clear and remove theunit from the car.

Refitting36 Refitting the receiver/dryer is a reversal ofremoval. Tighten the unions and mountings tothe specified torque. Have the systemevacuated, charged and leak-tested by thespecialist who discharged it.

Electric cooling fan assembly37 Refer to Section 5.

Blower motor

Removal38 Remove the trim panel under the facia onthe passenger’s side.39 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from themotor socket.40 Detach the hose from the motor andmotor housing.41 Undo the three bolts and remove themotor from the blower housing.

Refitting42 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Evaporator

Removal43 Have the refrigerant discharged at adealer service department or an automotiveair conditioning repair facility.44 Undo the five screws and remove theglovebox from the facia.45 Remove the radio/cassette player and theclock as described in Chapter 12.46 Undo the retaining screws and removethe glovebox bar.47 From within the engine compartmentunscrew the two pipe unions using twospanners, one to unscrew the union nut and asecond to counterhold the relevant pipe.Recover the O-rings from the pipe unions. Plugor cover the disconnected pipes immediately.48 Disconnect the thermistor wiring multiplugon the front face of the evaporator.49 Undo the evaporator mounting nuts andbolts, noting the location of any cable supportbrackets and clips.50 Disconnect the wiring at the connectormultiplugs as the unit is withdrawn andremove the evaporator from the car.

Refitting51 Refitting the evaporator is a reversal ofremoval. Tighten the unions and mountings tothe specified torque. Have the systemevacuated, charged and leak-tested by thespecialist who discharged it.

Blower housing

Removal52 Remove the evaporator as describedpreviously.53 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs, undo themounting bolts and remove the unit from the car.

Refitting54 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•13

14.28 Air conditioning compressor mountings and attachments on V6 engines

1 Tensioner pulley locknut2 Tensioner adjuster bolt3 Drivebelt

4 Wiring connector5 Compressor mounting bolts6 Compressor

7 Pipe mounting flange bolts8 Mounting bracket bolts9 Tensioner bracket bolt

14.34 Air conditioning receiver/dryer pipe unions (1) and mounting bolts (2)

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4A

GeneralSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Indirect single-point injection with microprocessor controlECU-controlled idle speed:

Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 700 to 800 rpmAutomatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 650 to 750 rpm

Base idle speed:Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 625 to 675 rpmAutomatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575 to 625 rpm

Idle mixture CO content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 to 3.0%Throttle potentiometer voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 to 335 mVThrottle lever lost motion gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 0.9 mmFuel octane rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 RON leaded or 95 RON unleaded

Fuel PumpType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nippon Denso, electricOutput pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 barRegulated pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 barDelivery rate (at 1.2 bar and 12 volts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 litres/hourVoltage at pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 to 10.0 volts

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftInlet air temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5Fuel filter banjo union bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Throttle body to manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Fuel pump banjo union bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Fuel tank drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Fuel tank strap locknuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13Inlet manifold heater bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Exhaust front pipe to manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Exhaust section flange nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Exhaust heat shield retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Chapter 4 Part A: Fuel and exhaust systems –Single-point injection engines

Accelerator cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 3Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Accelerator cable and linkage check and lubrication . . .See Chapter 1Air cleaner assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2AExhaust system - general information and component renewal . . . . 13Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Fuel injection system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Fuel injection system - testing and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Fuel injection system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 12Fuel pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Fuel system - depressurisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Fuel tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2AUnderbody fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1Unleaded petrol - general information and usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

4A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

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1 General information andprecautions

The fuel system used on Rover 820e andSe models consists of a centrally-mountedfuel tank, electric fuel pump and single-pointfuel injection (SPi) system, together with itsrelated electrical and mechanicalcomponents. A more detailed description ofthe SPi system is contained in Section 10.

The exhaust system consists of a front,intermediate and rear section, suspendedfrom the underbody on rubber mountings, andbolted to a cast iron manifold at the front. Aball-and-socket universal joint is incorporatedin the front section, to allow for engine andexhaust system movement.

PrecautionsWarning: Many of theprocedures in this Chapterrequire the removal of fuel linesand connections, which may

result in some fuel spillage. Petrol isextremely flammable, so take extraprecautions when you work on any part ofthe fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allowopen flames or bare light bulbs, near thework area. Don’t work in a garage where anatural gas-type appliance (such as awater heater or clothes dryer) with a pilotlight is present. If you spill any fuel on yourskin, rinse it off immediately with soap andwater. When you perform any kind of work

on the fuel system, wear safety glasses,and have a Class B type fire extinguisheron hand. Before carrying out any operationon the fuel system, refer also to theprecautions given in “Safety first!” at thebeginning of this manual, and follow themimplicitly. Petrol is a highly-dangerous andvolatile liquid, and the precautionsnecessary when handling it cannot beoverstressed.

Reference must also be made to Chapter 5,Section 1 for precautionary notes concerningthe ignition system and battery disconnection,and to any further safety-related textcontained within the appropriate Section,before working on the vehicle.

Certain adjustment points in the fuel systemare protected by tamperproof caps, plugs orseals. In some territories, it is an offence todrive a vehicle with broken or missingtamperproof seals. Before disturbing atamperproof seal, first check that no local ornational laws will be broken by doing so, andfit a new tamperproof seal after adjustment iscomplete, where required by law. Do notbreak tamperproof seals on any vehicle whilstit is still under warranty.

When working on fuel system components,scrupulous cleanliness must be observed andcare must be taken not to introduce anyforeign matter into the fuel lines orcomponents. The throttle body in particular isa delicate instrument and care must be takennot to disturb any components unnecessarily.Before attempting work on the throttle body,

ensure that the relevant spares are available;it should be noted that a complete throttlebody strip down is unlikely to cure a faultwhich is not immediately obvious, withoutintroducing new problems. If persistentproblems occur, it is recommended that theservices of a Rover dealer or fuel injectionspecialist is sought.

2 Air cleaner assembly -removal and refitting 1

Note: Air cleaner element renewal isdescribed in Chapter 1.

Removal1 Slacken the hose clip securing the intaketrunking to the air cleaner body, and releasethe HT cable from the support clip.2 Undo the five upper bolts securing the airbox to the injector housing and supportbracket.3 Lift up the air box, and disconnect thewiring multiplug at the air temperature sensor,and the vacuum hose at the fuel trap (seeillustrations).4 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the inletmanifold connection, and from the vacuummotor on the air cleaner (see illustrations).Remove the air box and intake trunkingassembly.5 Undo the bolts securing the air cleanerbody and the forward air trunking assembly totheir support brackets (see illustrations). Lift

4A•2 Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point injection engines

2.5b . . . right-hand retaining bolt . . .2.5a Undo the air cleaner body left-handretaining bolt (arrowed) . . .

2.4b . . . and at the vacuum motor

2.4a Disconnect the vacuum hose at theinlet manifold . . .

2.3b . . . and disconnect the airtemperature sensor multiplug

2.3a Lift up the air box . . .

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the body and trunking, disconnect the hot airintake tube, and release the trunking from theconnecting duct at the front of the car.Remove the air cleaner body and trunking.6 If the cold air side intake is to be removed,refer to Chapter 5, and remove the battery.7 Undo the bolt securing the side intake tothe body, and remove the intake and duct(see illustration).

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensurethat all the ducts and trunking are fullyengaged before tightening the variousretaining bolts.

3 Accelerator cable - removal,refitting and adjustment 4

Removal1 Refer to Section 2 and remove the aircleaner air box.2 Unscrew the accelerator cable locknutnearest to the cable end, pull the outer cableupwards, and slide the inner cable out of theslot in the support bracket (see illustration).3 Release the inner cable end from the slot inthe throttle cam (see illustration).4 From inside the car, release the turnbucklesand lift out the trim panel over the clutch,brake and accelerator pedals.

5 Prise the retaining clip from the top of theaccelerator pedal, and disconnect the innercable.6 Release the cable from the enginecompartment bulkhead and from the supportclips, and withdraw the complete cable fromthe car.

Refitting and adjustment7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust thecable initially by means of the outer cablelocknuts, to give a small amount of free playwith the throttle closed. On completion, checkthe base idle speed as described in Sec-tion 11.

4 Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 From inside the car, release the turnbucklesand lift out the trim panel over the clutch,brake and accelerator pedals.2 Prise the retaining clip from the top of theaccelerator pedal, and disconnect the innercable from the pedal arm.3 Undo the bolts securing the pedal bracketto the bulkhead, and withdraw the bracketand pedal assembly (see illustration).4 Disconnect the switch wiring and removethe bracket and pedal.

5 If the accelerator pedal switch is to beremoved, prise off the retaining C-clip andremove the switch and washer.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

5 Fuel system -depressurisation 1

Warning: Refer to theprecautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

1 The fuel system referred to in this Chapter isdefined as the fuel tank and tank-mounted fuelpump/fuel gauge sender unit, the fuel filter, thethrottle body, and the metal pipes and flexiblehoses of the fuel lines between thesecomponents. Most of these contain fuel whichwill be under pressure while the engine isrunning and/or while the ignition is switched on.2 The pressure will remain for some time afterthe ignition has been switched off, and mustbe relieved before any of these componentsare disturbed for servicing or repair work.3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).4 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filteroutlet union banjo bolt, then slowly unscrewthe bolt to release the pressure (seeillustration).

Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point injection engines 4A•3

3.2 Undo the accelerator cable locknut . . .2.7 Side intake to body retaining bolt(arrowed)

2.5c . . . and the air cleaner trunking tosupport bracket bolt (arrowed)

5.4 Place absorbent rags around the fuelfilter outlet union banjo bolt (arrowed),

then slowly unscrew the bolt to release thesystem pressure

4.3 Accelerator pedal bracket retainingbolts (arrowed)

3.3 . . . and release the cable end(arrowed) from the throttle cam

4A

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5 Once the system pressure has beencompletely relieved, tighten the banjo bolt anddispose of the rags safely.

6 Fuel pump - removal and refitting 1

Warning: Refer to theprecautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Release the fuel system pressure asdescribed in Section 5.3 Remove the floor carpet from the luggagecompartment.4 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the rearseats.5 Release the eight studs and remove theseat squab backing from the body.6 Release the two studs and remove theluggage compartment backboard from thebody.7 Remove the cover board over the sparewheel, and remove the tool kit.8 Undo the four screws and lift off the pumpaccess panel (see illustrations). Move thepanel to one side.9 Disconnect the pump wiring multiplug, thenunscrew the fuel hose banjo union bolt andrecover the copper washers (see illustration).

10 Slacken the clip and disconnect the fuelreturn hose.11 Undo the pump retaining nuts, andwithdraw the pump from the tank. Removethe seal from the pump flange.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butrenew the flange seal if it shows any sign ofdeterioration.

7 Fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting 1

Warning: Refer to theprecautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

Removal1 Follow the procedure given in Section 6,paragraphs 1 to 8 inclusive, with theexception of paragraph 2.2 Disconnect the two leads at the sender unit.3 Engage a screwdriver, flat bar or other toolwith the lugs of the locking ring, and turn thering anti-clockwise to release it.4 Withdraw the locking ring, seal and senderunit.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but renewthe seal if it shows any sign of deterioration.

8 Fuel tank - removal,inspection and refitting 1

Warning: Refer to theprecautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

Removal1 Follow the procedure given in Section 6,paragraphs 1 to 8 inclusive.2 Disconnect the fuel pump wiring multiplug,and the two leads at the fuel gauge sender unit.3 Remove the fuel tank filler cap.4 With sealed containers handy, undo thedrain plug at the base of the tank, and drainthe fuel into the containers. Recover the drainplug sealing washer. When all the fuel hasdrained, refit the plug, using a new sealingwasher if necessary.5 Chock the front wheels, remove the rearwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the rear of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the left-hand rear roadwheel.6 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnectthe filler hose from the filler neck. Move thehose aside.7 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnectthe five breather hoses from the breatherpipes.8 Refer to Section 13 and remove the exhaustsystem rear and intermediate sections,together with the rear heat shield.9 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect thefuel return hose from the pipe on the side of thetank. Plug the disconnected pipe and hose.10 Undo the union connector and disconnectthe fuel feed hose from the pipe. Plug thedisconnected pipe and hose.11 Support the tank on a jack withinterposed block of wood.12 Slacken the two tank retaining straplocknuts, release the hook bolts from thebody slots, and move the straps clear (seeillustration).13 Lower the tank and remove it from underthe car.14 If the tank is contaminated with sediment orwater, remove the sender unit as described inSection 7, and swill the tank out with clean fuel. Ifthe tank is damaged, or leaks, it should berepaired by a specialist, or renewed. Do notunder any circumstances solder or weld the tank.

Refitting15 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

9 Unleaded petrol - generalinformation and usage

Note: The information given in this Chapter iscorrect at the time of writing, and applies onlyto petrols currently available in the UK. Ifupdated information is thought to be required,check with a Rover dealer. If travelling abroad,

4A•4 Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point injection engines

8.12 Fuel tank retaining strap and locknut6.9 Fuel pump wiring multiplug connec-tion (A) and fuel hose banjo union (B)

6.8b . . . and lift off the fuel pump accesspanel

6.8a Undo the four screws (arrowed) . . .

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consult one of the motoring organisations (or asimilar authority) for advice on the petrolsavailable and their suitability for your vehicle.1 The fuel recommended by Rover is given inthe Specifications at the beginning of thisChapter, followed by the equivalent petrolcurrently on sale in the UK.2 RON and MON are different testingstandards.; RON stands for Research OctaneNumber (also written as RM), while MONstands for Motor Octane Number (also writtenas MN).3 All non-catalyst equipped 4-cylinder enginemodels covered by this manual are designedto run on leaded or unleaded petrols withoutmodification. Only unleaded petrol may beused in those models fitted with a catalyticconverter.

10 Fuel injection system -general information

The single-point fuel injection (SPi) systemis a microprocessor-controlled fuelmanagement system, designed to overcomethe limitations associated with conventionalcarburettor induction (see illustration). This isachieved by continuously monitoring theengine using various sensors, whose data isinput to the fuel system Electronic ControlUnit (ECU). Based on this information, theECU program and memory then determine theexact amount of fuel necessary, which isinjected into the throttle body by a singleinjector, for all actual and anticipated drivingconditions.

The main components of the system andtheir individual operation is as follows.

Fuel/ignition ECU: The fuel ECU is amicroprocessor which controls the injectoropening time, and therefore the amount of fuelsupplied. Contained in the ECU memory is aprogram from which a pulse is derived, thelength of which determines the fuel injectoropening duration. Information received fromthe various engine sensors will cause the ECUto alter the fuel requirements, by changing thepulse length. Airflow measurement is basedon the speed/density method, in which theinlet air temperature and inlet manifoldpressure are measured under the assumptionthat the engine is a calibrated vacuum pump,with its characteristics stored in the ECUmemory. The air/fuel ratio requirements for allengine speeds and loads are also stored inthe ECU. This information on the engine’sbasic fuel requirements is constantlyamended, according to the informationreceived from the various sensors. In additionto this, the engine idle speed is also controlledby the ECU, which uses a stepper motor toopen or close the throttle as required. Twoseparate programs control the ECU functions.One program operates under cruiseconditions, and the other at idle. The idleprogram can be altered completely using

electronic test equipment, or partially by usingthe procedures described in Section 11. Anychanges to this program do not affect thecruise program, which cannot be accessed.Whenever the battery is disconnected, theidle program is lost, and the ECU reverts backto a set of nominal parameters until theinformation is reintroduced into the memory.This can only be done using themanufacturer’s test equipment, but theperformance of the engine at idle is onlymarginally affected in this condition. As wellas control of the fuel injection system, theECU is also used to control the ignition timing.

Fuel injector: The single fuel injector is asolenoid-operated ball valve, containing a finegauze filter and a nozzle with six spray holesfor complete fuel atomization. When a pulse isreceived from the ECU, the injector spraysfuel into the air stream through the throttlebody.

Throttle potentiometer: The potentiometeris a variable resistor, attached to the throttleshaft on the throttle body. The unit is suppliedwith a constant input voltage, and as theresistance of the potentiometer varies withthrottle shaft movement, the output voltage isproportionally affected. This allows the ECU

to determine throttle valve position, and rateof change.

Idle speed stepper motor: This is a smallelectric motor, having four control windings toenable it to rotate in either direction. Under asignal from the ECU, the stepper motor willrotate in whichever direction is necessary, toopen or close the throttle by means ofpushrod acting directly against the base idlespeed adjusting screw.

Inlet air temperature sensor: Located inthe airflow through the air cleaner air box, thesensor is a thermistor (resistive device whoseresistance quickly decreases withtemperature increase).

Coolant temperature sensor: Thisresistive device is screwed into the thermostathousing, where its element is in direct contactwith the engine coolant. Changes in coolanttemperature are detected by the ECU as achange in the sensor resistance.

Ambient air temperature sensor: Thesensor is located behind the left-handheadlight, and responds to changes inambient temperature with a correspondingchange in resistance.

Manifold heater: A manifold heater, toimprove atomization of the fuel/air mixture

Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point injection engines 4A•5

10.1 Main components of the single-point fuel injection system4A

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1 Ambient airtemperature sensor

2 Accelerator pedalswitch

3 Inlet airtemperature sensor

4 Throttle body andidle speed steppermotor

5 Fuel injector andfuel pressureregulator

6 Throttlepotentiometer

7 Main fuel systemrelay

8 Fuel pump relay9 Oil pressure relay10 Coolant

temperature sensor11 Manifold heater

temperature sensor12 Manifold heater13 Crankshaft sensor14 Knock sensor15 Inertia switch16 Oil pressure switch17 Fuel pump18 Distributor cap and rotor

arm19 Ignition coil20 Diagnostic plug connector21 Fuel/ignition ECU22 Idle solenoid (models with

air conditioning)

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during warm-up conditions, is fitted to theunderside of the inlet manifold. The heater isof the positive temperature coefficient (PTC)type, in which the current consumption of theheating element is high while it heats up, butis greatly reduced at operating temperature.The unit is controlled by a temperaturesensor, screwed into the coolant jacket of theinlet manifold. When coolant temperaturereaches 50ºC, the sensor switches themanifold heater off. To avoid a heavy drain onthe battery, current for the heater is suppliedvia the oil pressure switch relay, andconsequently only switches on after theengine has started.

Fuel pressure regulator: The fuel pressureregulator is attached to the throttle body, andmaintains fuel pressure at a constant 1.0 bar.When the pressure exceeds this value, theregulator returns excess fuel to the tank viathe fuel return line.

Inertia switch: An inertia switch is fitted inthe ignition switch feed to the fuel pump relay,and is situated inside the car behind the left-hand side of the radio cassette player. In theevent of sudden impact, the switch trips out,thus switching off the fuel pump relay. Theswitch can be reset by pressing down thereset button on the switch body.

Relays: The main fuel system relay isenergised when the ignition is switched on,and supplies current to the ignition coil andthe fuel system ECU. The relay remainsenergised for approximately five seconds afterthe ignition is switched off, to enable thestepper motor to cycle to the correct positionfor engine starting. The fuel pump relay isenergised when the oil pressure relay is de-energised by the low oil pressure switch.When the engine is cranking, the fuel pump isfed from the starter solenoid via the de-energised fuel pump relay.

Fuel pump: The fuel pump is a self-primingcentrifugal unit, located in the fuel tank, andtotally submerged in the fuel. Fuel is suppliedunder pressure from the pump, through anon-return valve and in-line filter, to the fuelpressure regulator, and then to the fuelinjector. The high capacity output of the pumpis reduced by a resistive wire in the harnesswhich reduces the supply voltage.

Accelerator pedal switch: When the

accelerator pedal is at rest, the pedal switch isclosed, and a signal is sent to the ECUindicating that the engine is idling. On receiptof this information, the ECU selects the idleprogram from its memory, and automatic idlespeed control via the stepper motor isimplemented.

11 Fuel injection system -testing and adjustment 4

Testing1 If a fault appears in the fuel injectionsystem, first ensure that all the system wiringconnectors are securely connected and freeof corrosion. Then ensure that the fault is notdue to poor maintenance; ie, check that theair cleaner filter element is clean, the sparkplugs are in good condition and correctlygapped, the cylinder compression pressuresare correct, and that the engine breatherhoses are clear and undamaged, referring tothe relevant Sections of this Chapter, and toChapters 1 and 2 for further information.2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause ofthe problem, the vehicle should be taken to asuitably equipped Rover dealer for testing onRover dedicated test equipment. Thisequipment will locate the fault quickly andsimply, alleviating the need to test all thesystem components individually, which is atime-consuming operation that carries anelement of risk of damaging the ECU.

AdjustmentEngine tuning procedure3 Before making any changes to the settingsof the fuel injection system, ensure that thespark plug gaps are correctly set, the aircleaner element is clean, there are no leaks inthe exhaust system, and the ignition system isoperating correctly. Ensure that all breatherand vacuum hoses are connected, and thatnone are perished or kinked.4 Temperature effects, and engine andtransmission oil drag, can adversely influencethe base idle speed setting, and it is importantthat the following warm-up procedure isadopted before attempting any adjustments.

5 Drive the car on the road for approximatelytwo to four miles, dependent on summer orwinter conditions, in a normal manner, withoutexcessive load, engine speed or road speed.6 Return the car to the working area, switchoff and connect a tachometer, following theequipment manufacturer’s instructions.7 Start the engine again, and run it at 2000 rpm for ten seconds to stabilise themixture. The adjustment procedure describedin the following paragraphs can nowcommence. If during the procedure thecooling fan operates, or if adjustment is notcompleted within two minutes, accelerate theengine to 2000 rpm again, by means of thethrottle linkage (not the accelerator pedal) andhold this speed for a further ten seconds.Repeat this every two minutes until theadjustments are completed.

Base idle speed and mixtureadjustment8 The function of the fuel injection system issuch that the base idle speed and idle mixturesettings are controlled by the ECU, and ofthese two, only the base idle speed can beadjusted without the use of themanufacturer’s test equipment. Should pooridle quality be experienced, the base idlespeed should be checked, and if necessaryadjusted, using the following procedure. Theidle mixture setting will not normally requireattention unless the battery is disconnected,in which case the settings in the ECU memorywill be lost. If the battery is disconnected forany reason, the ECU can be recalibratedusing the procedure described in para-graphs 21 to 28 as a temporary measure.9 Refer to the engine tuning procedure abovebefore starting.10 Switch off the engine, and ensure alsothat all electrical circuits are switched offthroughout the procedure.11 Undo the five bolts and lift off the aircleaner box. Place the air box alongside theengine, without disconnecting any of thehoses or ducts.12 Operate the throttle by hand, and checkthat it opens fully and returns to rest againstthe stepper motor pushrod.13 Start the engine and using the throttlelinkage, not the accelerator pedal, increasethe engine speed to 1200 rpm, and hold it atthis speed. Check that the stepper motorpushrod has retracted fully, then disconnectthe stepper motor multiplug (the round plugon the side of the throttle body below theaccelerator cable).14 Release the throttle and allow the engineto stabilise at idle speed.15 Check the engine base idle speed on thetachometer, and compare the reading with thefigure given in the Specifications. Ifadjustment is required, slacken the adjustingscrew locknut and turn the adjusting screw asnecessary to obtain the correct setting (seeillustrations). Tighten the locknut when thespeed is correct.

4A•6 Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point injection engines

11.15b . . . and turn the adjusting screw(arrowed) to obtain the correct setting

11.15a Slacken the base idle speedadjusting screw locknut . . .

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16 Check the lost motion gap by inserting afeeler gauge of the specified size between theforked end of the throttle lever and the peg onthe linkage. If the gap requires adjustment,slacken the accelerator cable locknuts andreposition the outer cable until the correctsetting is achieved (see illustrations). Tightenthe locknuts when the gap is correct.17 Reconnect the stepper motor multiplug.18 Switch off the ignition, wait three secondsand switch the ignition on once more. After afurther three seconds, switch off the ignitionagain. The stepper motor will now be in thecorrect position for the next engine start.19 On cars equipped with automatictransmission, refer to Chapter 7, Part B andcheck the kickdown cable adjustment.20 Refit the air cleaner air box anddisconnect the tachometer on completion.

Electronic control unit calibration21 As previously stated, whenever thebattery is disconnected, the idle mixturesetting stored in the ECU memory will be lost.On reconnection of the battery, the followingprocedure may be used to recalibrate the unittemporarily, until such time as the car can betaken to a dealer for accurate setting on Roverdedicated test equipment.22 Run the engine with all electrical circuitsswitched off, until the engine cooling fanoperates then stops.23 Switch off the engine immediately thecooling fan stops.24 Switch the ignition on to position two ofthe key.

25 Depress the accelerator pedal through atleast half its travel, then release it, five times.26 Wait until the high engine temperaturewarning light starts to flash.27 As soon as the high engine temperaturewarning light stops flashing, start the enginewithout depressing the accelerator pedal,and allow it to idle. If the accelerator pedal isdepressed, or if an electrical unit is switchedon, the calibration will cease. (This alsoapplies to the interior lights operated by thedoor pillar switches, so keep the doorsclosed).28 Wait for two to three minutes until thewarning light flashes again, indicating thatcalibration is complete.

12 Fuel injection systemcomponents - removal and refitting

3Note: Refer to the precautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

Thermac switchRemoval1 Refer to Section 2 and remove the aircleaner air box.2 Disconnect the two vacuum hoses at thethermac switch on the base of the air box (seeillustration).3 Remove the air box intake trunking foraccess to the switch.4 Carefully prise off the switch retaining clip,and remove the switch from inside the air box.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butposition the unit so that the large diameterpipe is towards the air temperature sensor.Connect the vacuum hose from the manifoldto the pipe with the small diameter hole, andthe vacuum hose from the air cleaner vacuummotor to the pipe with the large diameter hole.

Inlet air temperature sensorRemoval6 Refer to Section 2 and remove the aircleaner air box.7 Unscrew the sensor from the adaptor onthe base of the air box. If the adaptorunscrews with the sensor, unscrew theadaptor and refit it to the air box.

Refitting8 Refit the sensor to the adaptor, and refit theair box.

Throttle potentiometerRemoval9 Refer to Section 2 and remove the aircleaner air box.10 Disconnect the multiplug from the side ofthe potentiometer body.11 Using a dab of paint, mark the position ofthe throttle potentiometer in relation to themounting adaptor.12 Undo the two screws, remove thepotentiometer, and lift off the adaptor (seeillustration).

Refitting13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure thatthe potentiometer lever engages to the right ofthe throttle lever, and align the previously-mademark before tightening the retaining screws.Have the potentiometer position adjustedaccurately by a Rover dealer on completion.

Injector housingRemoval14 Relieve the fuel system pressure asdescribed in Section 5.15 Refer to Section 2 and remove the aircleaner air box.16 Using pliers, release the two fuel hoseretaining clips at the injector housing, anddisconnect the two hoses (see illustration).Plug the hoses after removal.

Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point injection engines 4A•7

12.2 Thermac switch vacuum hoses(arrowed)

11.16b . . . and adjust the lost motion gapat the accelerator cable

11.16a Insert a feeler gauge between thethrottle lever and peg . . .

12.16 Release the two fuel hose retainingclips at the injector housing, and

disconnect the two hoses12.12 Throttle potentiometer retaining

screws (A) and adaptor (B)

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17 Disconnect the injector wiring multiplug.18 Undo the four screws securing theinjector housing to the throttle body, and liftoff the housing (see illustration). The housingmay be initially tight, due to the two locatingdowels. Recover the gasket from the throttlebody.19 This is the limit of dismantling that can beundertaken on the injector housing assembly.Should it be necessary to renew the fuelinjector or fuel pressure regulator, a completeinjector housing assembly must be obtained.20 Clean the mating faces of the injectorhousing and throttle body, and remove all theold locking compound from the threads of theretaining screws. Obtain a new gasket if theoriginal shows any signs of deterioration.

Refitting21 Place the gasket in position on the throttlebody, and locate the injector housing over thegasket.22 Apply a thread-locking compound to thefour retaining screws, then fit and tighten thescrews securely.23 Reconnect the injector wiring multiplug.24 Reconnect the two fuel hoses, then locatethe retaining clips 3.0 mm from the hose ends.25 Refit the air cleaner air box, then adjustthe engine base idle speed as described inChapter 1.

Stepper motor unit

Removal26 Remove the injector housing as previouslydescribed.27 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from theside of the stepper motor.28 Undo the four outermost screws thatsecure the stepper motor to the throttle body(see illustration). Do not remove the twoscrews near the centre of the unit.29 Lift off the accelerator cable supportbracket, with cable still attached, and place itto one side.30 Carefully lift off the stepper motor unitand, where fitted, recover the gasket (seeillustration). Note that the gasket was onlyfitted to early models, and if present, discardit, and do not fit another on reassembly.

31 Clean the components with a clean cloth,and remove all the old locking compoundfrom the threads of the retaining screws.Refitting32 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use athread-locking compound on the retainingscrew threads.

Throttle bodyRemoval33 Remove the injector housing as previouslydescribed.34 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs to thestepper motor and throttle potentiometer.35 Disconnect the two breather hoses on theside of the throttle body (see illustration).36 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts,open the throttle fully and slip the cable endout of the throttle cam. Unscrew the lowercable locknut fully, and remove theaccelerator cable from the support bracket.37 On automatic transmission models,disconnect the kickdown cable, using thesame procedure as for the accelerator cable.38 Undo the four nuts securing the throttlebody to the manifold.39 Lift off the throttle body, and recover themanifold spacer, with gaskets.40 Clean the mating faces on the manifoldand throttle body, and renew the gaskets onthe spacer if they show any sign ofdeterioration. If the gaskets are beingrenewed, attach them to the spacer usingnon-drying jointing compound.

Refitting41 Place the spacer with gaskets over themanifold studs, then place the throttle body inposition. Secure the throttle body with thefour nuts tightened securely.42 Reconnect the breather hoses and thewiring multiplugs.43 Refit the accelerator cable and adjust it,by means of the locknuts, to give a smallamount of free play in the throttle-closedposition.44 On automatic transmission models, refitand adjust the kickdown cable as described inChapter 7, Part B.45 Refit the injector housing as describedpreviously.

Electronic control unit (ECU)Removal46 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).47 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from theECU, which is located on the left-hand side ofthe engine compartment behind the battery.To do this, press the retaining tab upwards,release the bottom of the multiplug, thendisengage the top lug (see illustration).48 Disconnect the vacuum supply hose.49 Undo the two retaining screws, disengagethe locating lug and remove the unit from itsmounting bracket.

Refitting50 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

4A•8 Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point injection engines

12.47 Disconnect the ECU wiringmultiplug

12.35 Breather hose attachments at thethrottle body

12.30 . . . and lift off the stepper motor12.28 Undo the four stepper motorretaining screws (arrowed) . . .

12.18 Injector housing retaining screws(arrowed)

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Resonator unit

Removal51 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front ofthe car and support it on axle stands.52 Undo the two screws and one boltsecuring the access panel to the underside ofthe front wheelarch on the left-hand side.53 Disengage the access panel from the frontspoiler, and remove it from under the car.54 Undo the two bolts and withdraw theresonator from under the front wheelarch.55 Remove the spacers and rubbermountings from the resonator.

Refitting56 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Inertia switch

Removal57 From inside the car, remove the stud fromthe centre console side cover on the left-handside, and remove the cover.58 Undo the two screws securing the inertiaswitch to the mounting plate, disconnect thewiring multiplug and remove the switch.59 Check the operation of the switch bystriking the forward-facing side hard againstthe palm of your hand. The setting buttonshould trip out when this is done. If not, renewthe switch.

Refitting60 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Pressthe button down to reset the switch afterinstallation.

Manifold heater

Removal61 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).62 Refer to Section 2 and remove the aircleaner air box.63 Relieve the fuel system pressure asdescribed in Section 5.64 Release the clips and disconnect the twofuel hoses at the injector housing.65 Disconnect the manifold heater wiringconnector.66 Undo the two bolts securing the fuel pipeclips and the heater to the manifold, andmove the pipes aside.67 Undo the remaining heater retaining bolt.68 Open the throttle fully, and remove theheater by pushing down with a longscrewdriver through the throttle aperture.69 Remove the O-ring and gasket from theheater.70 Clean the mating faces of the heater andmanifold, and renew the gasket and O-ring ifthey show any sign of deterioration.

Refitting71 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

13 Exhaust system - generalinformation and componentrenewal

1Warning: Inspection and repairof exhaust system componentsshould be done only afterenough time has elapsed after

driving the vehicle to allow the systemcomponents to cool completely. Also,when working under the vehicle, makesure it is securely supported on axlestands.

General information1 The exhaust system consists of a front,intermediate and rear section, suspendedfrom the underbody on rubber mountings, andbolted to a cast iron manifold at the front. Aball-and-socket universal joint is incorporatedin the front section, to allow for engine

and exhaust system movement (seeillustration).2 The exhaust system should be examinedfor leaks, damage and security at regularintervals (see Chapter 1). To do this, apply thehandbrake, and allow the engine to idle in awell-ventilated area. Lie down on each side ofthe car in turn, and check the full length of thesystem for leaks, while an assistanttemporarily places a wad of cloth over the endof the tailpipe. If a leak is evident, stop theengine and use a proprietary repair kit to sealit. If the leak is excessive, or damage isevident, renew the section. Check the rubbermountings for deterioration, and renew them ifnecessary.

Component renewalRemoval3 To renew the system components, raise thevehicle by means of axle stands or ramps toprovide adequate working clearanceunderneath.

Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point injection engines 4A•9

13.1 Exhaust system components

4A

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Front pipe2 Flange gasket3 Locknut4 Intermediate

section5 Flange gasket6 Locknut7 Rear section8 Rubber

mountings9 Mounting bracket

10 Rubber mounting11 Tensioning spring

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4 To remove the rear section, undo the threenuts securing the rear section to theintermediate section at the flange joint, andseparate the joint. Recover the flange gasket.Disengage the rubber mountings at the sideand rear, and remove the section from underthe car.5 To remove the intermediate section, undothe nuts securing the intermediate section tothe front and rear sections at the flange joints

and separate the joints. Recover the flangegaskets. Disengage the side rubbermountings and remove the section from underthe car.6 To remove the front section, undo the nutssecuring the front section to the manifold andintermediate section, separate the flangejoints and remove the section from under thecar. Recover the flange gaskets.7 If necessary, the front and rear heat shields

can be removed after removing the relevantexhaust section, then undoing the heat shieldretaining bolts.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but usenew gaskets if the originals show any sign ofdeterioration. Tighten the flange retaining nutsto the specified torque.

4A•10 Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point injection engines

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4BGeneralSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Indirect multi-point injection with microprocessor controlECU-controlled idle speed:

Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 to 950 rpmAutomatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 to 900 rpm

Base idle speed:Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 725 to 775 rpmAutomatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 675 to 725 rpm

Idle mixture CO content:Non-catalyst equipped engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5%Catalyst equipped engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25%

Throttle potentiometer voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 to 335 mVFuel octane rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 RON leaded or 95 RON unleaded

Fuel PumpType:

Normally-aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nippon Denso, electricTurbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AC electric

Output pressure:Normally-aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 barTurbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5 bar

Regulated pressure range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 to 2.3 barDelivery rate (at 3.0 bars and 12 volts):

Normally-aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 litres/hourTurbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 litres/hour

TurbochargerType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Garret T25Wastegate opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.34 to 0.36 bar

Chapter 4 Part B: Fuel and exhaust systems –Lucas multi-point injection engines

Accelerator cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 3Accelerator cable and linkage check and lubrication . . .See Chapter 1Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Air cleaner assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Catalytic converter - general information and

precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 4EExhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2AExhaust system - general information and component renewal . . . . 16Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Fuel injection system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Fuel injection system - testing and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Fuel injection system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 12Fuel pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Fuel system - depressurisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Fuel tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2AOxygen sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 4ETurbocharger - description and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Turbocharger - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Turbocharger - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Underbody fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1Unleaded petrol - general information and usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

4B•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

Page 112: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

1 General information andprecautions

The fuel system used on earlier Rover 820i,Si, SLi and Turbo models consists of acentrally-mounted fuel tank, electric fuelpump and indirect multi-point fuel injection(MPi) system, together with its relatedelectrical and mechanical components. Amore detailed description of the MPi system iscontained in Section 10.

The exhaust system consists of a front,intermediate and rear section, suspendedfrom the underbody on rubber mountings, andbolted to a cast iron manifold at the front. Aball-and-socket universal joint is incorporatedin the front section, to allow for engine andexhaust system movement.

PrecautionsWarning: Many of theprocedures in this Chapterrequire the removal of fuel linesand connections, which may

result in some fuel spillage. Petrol isextremely flammable, so take extraprecautions when you work on any part ofthe fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allowopen flames or bare light bulbs, near thework area. Don’t work in a garage where anatural gas-type appliance (such as awater heater or clothes dryer) with a pilotlight is present. If you spill any fuel on yourskin, rinse it off immediately with soap andwater. When you perform any kind of workon the fuel system, wear safety glasses,and have a Class B type fire extinguisheron hand. Before carrying out any operationon the fuel system, refer also to theprecautions given in “Safety first!” at thebeginning of this manual, and follow themimplicitly. Petrol is a highly-dangerous andvolatile liquid, and the precautionsnecessary when handling it cannot beoverstressed.

Reference must also be made to Chapter 5,Section 1 for precautionary notes concerningthe ignition system and battery disconnection,and to any further safety-related textcontained within the appropriate Section,before working on the vehicle.

Certain adjustment points in the fuel systemare protected by tamperproof caps, plugs or

seals. In some territories, it is an offence todrive a vehicle with broken or missingtamperproof seals. Before disturbing atamperproof seal, first check that no local ornational laws will be broken by doing so, andfit a new tamperproof seal after adjustment iscomplete, where required by law. Do notbreak tamperproof seals on any vehicle whilstit is still under warranty.

When working on fuel system components,scrupulous cleanliness must be observed andcare must be taken not to introduce anyforeign matter into the fuel lines orcomponents.

2 Air cleaner assembly -removal and refitting 1

Note: Air cleaner element renewal isdescribed in Chapter 1.

Removal

Normally-aspirated engines1 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect theair trunking at the throttle housing (seeillustration).2 Disconnect the airflow meter wiringconnector, and release the cable from thesupport clip.3 Undo the two air cleaner body and airflowmeter support bracket bolts, and the twobolts securing the forward air trunking to itssupport bracket (see illustration).4 Withdraw the air cleaner body, completewith airflow meter and forward air trunking,

release the trunking from the connecting ductat the front of the car, and remove theassembly from the engine compartment.5 If the cold air side intake is to be removed,refer to Chapter 5 and remove the battery.6 Undo the bolt securing the side intake tothe body, and remove the intake and duct.

Turbocharged engines7 Remove the battery as described inChapter 5, then undo the bolts and lift out thebattery tray.8 Undo the wastegate control solenoid valveretaining screw and move the valve aside.9 Disconnect the airflow meter wiringmultiplug.10 Undo the three mounting bracketretaining bolts.11 Release the two clips securing the heatshield to the heater pipe and remove the heatshield.12 Slacken the clip securing the air intakehose to the turbocharger and release thehose. Remove the breather hose from theintake hose.13 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from thewastegate control solenoid valve.14 Release the air cleaner assembly from theintake duct and carefully lift out the aircleaner, airflow meter and mounting bracket.15 The remaining intake ducts can now beremoved as required.

Refitting16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butensure that all the ducts and trunking are fullyengaged before tightening the variousretaining bolts.

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftFuel filter banjo union bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Brake servo hose banjo union bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Fuel pump banjo union bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Fuel tank drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Fuel tank strap locknuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13Exhaust front pipe to manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Exhaust section flange nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Exhaust heat shield retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

4B•2 Fuel and exhaust systems - Lucas multi-point injection engines

2.3 Forward air trunking to supportbracket bolt

2.1 Disconnect the air trunking at thethrottle housing

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3 Accelerator cable - removal,refitting and adjustment 4

Removal1 Open the throttle fully by hand, and slip theinner cable end out of the slot on the throttlelever (see illustration).2 Slacken the outer cable locknuts, and fullyunscrew the outer locknut, nearest to thecable end.3 Remove the washer and rubber bush, thenwithdraw the cable from the support bracket.4 From inside the car, release the turnbucklesand lift out the trim panel over the clutch,brake and accelerator pedals.5 Prise the retaining clip from the top of theaccelerator pedal, and disconnect the innercable.6 Release the cable from the enginecompartment bulkhead, and from the supportclips, and withdraw the complete cable fromthe car.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust thecable initially by means of the outer cablelocknuts, to give a small amount of free playwith the throttle closed. On completion, checkthe engine base idle speed as described inSection 11.

4 Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting

Refer to Part A, Section 4.

5 Fuel system -depressurisation 1

Warning: Refer to theprecautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

1 The fuel system referred to in this Chapteris defined as the fuel tank and tank-mounted

fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit, the fuelfilter, the fuel pressure regulator, the fuelinjectors, and the metal pipes and flexiblehoses of the fuel lines between thesecomponents. Most of these contain fuel whichwill be under pressure while the engine isrunning and/or while the ignition is switchedon.2 The pressure will remain for some time afterthe ignition has been switched off, and mustbe relieved before any of these componentsare disturbed for servicing or repair work.3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).4 Place absorbent rags around the bleedscrew in the centre of the fuel filter outletunion banjo bolt, then slowly unscrew thebleed screw to relieve the system pressure.5 Once the pressure has been completelyrelieved, tighten the bleed screw and disposeof the rags safely.

6 Fuel pump - removal and refitting

Refer to Part A, Section 6.

7 Fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting

Refer to Part A, Section 7.

8 Fuel tank - removal,inspection and refitting

Refer to Part A, Section 8.

9 Unleaded petrol - generalinformation and usage

Refer to Part A, Section 9.

10 Fuel injection system -general information

The multi-point fuel injection (MPi) systemis a microprocessor-controlled fuelmanagement system, designed to overcomethe limitations associated with conventionalcarburettor induction. This is achieved bycontinuously monitoring the engine usingvarious sensors, whose data is input to thefuel system Electronic Control Unit (ECU).Based on this information, the ECU programand memory then determine the exact amountof fuel necessary, which is then injecteddirectly into the inlet manifold, for all actualand anticipated driving conditions.

The main components of the system andtheir individual operation are as follows (seeillustration).

Fuel and exhaust systems - Lucas multi-point injection engines 4B•3

3.1 Accelerator cable end fittingattachment at the throttle lever (A), and

outer cable locknuts (B)

4B

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

10.2 Main components of the multi-point fuel injection system

1 Flywheel reluctorring

2 Crankshaft sensor3 Inertia switch4 Fuel pump relay5 Fuel ECU6 Fuel pump7 Fuel system main

relay8 Fuel pressure

regulator9 Fuel injector

10 Fuel rail11 Fuel temperature

switch12 Idle speed stepper

motor13 Throttle housing14 Throttle

potentiometer15 Airflow meter16 Speedometer

transducer17 Coolant temperature

sensor

Page 114: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Fuel ECU: The fuel ECU is amicroprocessor, which controls the entireoperation of the fuel system. Contained in theECU memory is a program which controls thefuel supply to the injectors, and their openingduration. The program enters sub-routines toalter these parameters, according to inputsfrom the other components of the system. Inaddition to this, the engine idle speed is alsocontrolled by the ECU, which uses a steppermotor to open or close an air valve as required.

Fuel injectors: Each fuel injector consistsof a solenoid-operated needle valve, whichopens under commands from the fuel ECU.Fuel from the fuel rail is then delivered throughthe injector nozzle into the inlet manifold.

Coolant temperature sensor: Thisresistive device is screwed into the thermostathousing, where its element is in direct contactwith the engine coolant. Changes in coolanttemperature are detected by the ECU as achange in sensor resistance.

Airflow meter: This contains two resistiveelements mounted in the intake air stream,one of which is heated by a current passingthrough it. Air passing over the heated wirealters its resistance by cooling it, while thetemperature of the air is sensed by the otherwire. An electronic module within the airflowmeter monitors the reaction of the elements tothe airflow, and provides a proportional signalto the ECU.

Throttle potentiometer: The potentiometeris a variable resistor, attached to the throttleshaft in the throttle housing. The unit issupplied with a constant input voltage, and asthe resistance of the potentiometer varies withthrottle shaft movement, the output voltage isproportionally affected. This allows the fuelECU to determine throttle valve position, andrate of change.

Idle speed stepper motor: This is a smallelectric motor, having two control windings toenable it to rotate in either direction. Under asignal from the fuel ECU, the stepper motorwill rotate in whichever direction is necessary,to open or close the air valve in the throttlehousing. This allows air to bypass the throttlevalve and maintain a stabilised idling speed.

Fuel pump: The fuel pump is a self-primingcentrifugal unit, located in the fuel tank, andtotally submerged in the fuel. Fuel is suppliedunder pressure from the pump, through an in-line filter, to the fuel rail and fuel pressureregulator.

Fuel pressure regulator: The regulator is avacuum-operated mechanical device, whichensures that the pressure differential betweenfuel in the fuel rail and fuel in the inlet manifoldis maintained at a constant value. As manifolddepression increases, the regulated fuelpressure is reduced in direct proportion.When fuel pressure in the fuel rail exceeds theregulator setting, the regulator opens to allowfuel to return via the return line to the tank.

Relays: The main relay is energised whenthe ignition is switched on, and provides thefuel ECU supply voltage. The fuel relay is

energised by the fuel ECU for a short periodafter the ignition is initially switched on, andthen continuously when the engine is running.

Fuel temperature switch: The fueltemperature switch contacts remain openduring normal engine operation, and onlycloses when the temperature of the fuel in thefuel rail exceeds a preset value. When thecontacts close, a signal is sent to the fuelECU, overriding the coolant thermistor signal.The ECU then alters the opening duration ofthe injectors accordingly, to minimise theeffects of fuel vaporisation.

Inertia switch: The switch is amechanically-controlled accelerator,connected in the electrical circuit between theignition switch and the fuel ECU and fuelrelay. Under violent deceleration or impact,the switch trips out, and cuts off the supplyvoltage. Depressing a button on the switchbody resets the switch.

11 Fuel injection system -testing and adjustment 4

Testing1 If a fault appears in the fuel injectionsystem, first ensure that all the system wiringconnectors are securely connected and freeof corrosion. Then ensure that the fault is notdue to poor maintenance; ie, check that theair cleaner filter element is clean, the sparkplugs are in good condition and correctlygapped, the cylinder compression pressuresare correct, and that the engine breatherhoses are clear and undamaged, referring tothe relevant Sections of this Chapter, and toChapters 1 and 2 for further information.2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause ofthe problem, the vehicle should be taken to asuitably equipped Rover dealer for testing onRover dedicated test equipment. Thisequipment will locate the fault quickly andsimply, alleviating the need to test all thesystem components individually, which is atime-consuming operation that carries anelement of risk of damaging the ECU.

Adjustment

Engine tuning procedure3 Before making any changes to the settingsof the fuel injection system, ensure that thespark plug gaps are correctly set, the aircleaner element is clean, there are no leaks inthe exhaust system, and the ignition system isoperating correctly. Ensure that all breatherand vacuum hoses are connected, and thatnone are perished or kinked.4 Check that there is at least 5.0 mm of freeplay in the accelerator cable, and that thethrottle lever rests against its stop in thereleased condition. Adjust the cable asdescribed in Section 3 if necessary.5 Temperature effects, and engine andtransmission oil drag, can adversely influence

the idle speed and mixture settings, and it isimportant that the following warm-up procedureis adopted before attempting any adjustments.6 Drive the car on the road for approximatelytwo to four miles, dependent on summer orwinter conditions, in a normal manner, withoutexcessive load, engine speed or road speed.7 Return the car to the working area, andwithout switching off the engine, connect anexhaust gas analyser (CO meter) in accordancewith the equipment manufacturer’sinstructions. The analyser should be warmedup, correctly calibrated and ready forimmediate use. Commence the adjustmentprocedure described below immediately.8 If, during the adjustment procedure, thecooling fan operates, or if adjustment is notcompleted within two minutes, accelerate theengine to 2000 rpm, and hold this speed forten seconds. Repeat this every two minutesuntil the adjustments are completed.

Base idle speed and mixtureadjustmentNote: On models equipped with a catalyticconverter, all adjustments should be entrusted toa Rover dealer. Any maladjustment of the systemsettings could have an adverse effect on theoperation of the emission control equipment.9 The fuel injection system is such that theengine idle speed and mixture settings arecontrolled by the fuel ECU. Unless a newcomponent has been fitted, the idle speed ormixture screws have been tampered with, orthe idle quality is unsatisfactory, noadjustment should be necessary. If, however,the settings are to be altered, an accurateexhaust gas analyser (CO meter), tachometer,and voltmeter will be required.10 Refer to the engine tuning procedureinformation contained above before starting.11 Switch off all electrical accessories, andensure that they remain switched offthroughout the adjustment procedure.12 With the engine idling and the exhaust gasanalyser connected, take a reading of theexhaust gas CO content. If this is not as givenin the Specifications, hook out the tamperproofplug over the idle mixture adjustment screw,and turn the screw clockwise to enrich themixture, or anti-clockwise to weaken it asnecessary (see illustration).

4B•4 Fuel and exhaust systems - Lucas multi-point injection engines

11.12 Idle mixture adjustment screwtamperproof plug (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Page 115: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

13 With the CO content correctly adjusted,switch off the engine and connect atachometer according to the manufacturer’sinstructions.14 Before adjusting the base idle speed, thestepper motor must be cycled to its fully-extended position, using the followingprocedure:(a) Switch on the ignition.(b) Disconnect the stepper motor wiring

multiplug on the top of the throttlehousing (see illustration).

(c) Switch off the ignition, wait five seconds,and reconnect the stepper motormultiplug.

(d) Switch on the ignition, wait five seconds,and disconnect the stepper motormultiplug again.

(e) Switch off the ignition, wait five seconds,and reconnect the stepper motormultiplug.

(f) Switch on the ignition, wait five seconds,and disconnect the stepper motormultiplug once more. The stepper motoris now fully extended.

15 Start the engine, and allow it to idle untilnormal operating temperature is againreached.16 Check the reading on the tachometer, andcompare this with the base idle speed figuregiven in the Specifications.17 If adjustment is necessary, hook out thetamperproof plug over the idle speedadjusting screw, and turn the adjusting screwas necessary to achieve the correct setting(see illustration).18 Increase the engine speed to 2000 rpmfor ten seconds, then return it to idle.19 Recheck the exhaust CO content, asdescribed earlier in this Section.20 Switch off the ignition, and pull back thedust cover over the throttle potentiometerwiring multiplug.21 Insert the probes from the voltmeter intothe back of the multiplug so that the voltmeterblack lead is connected to the pink/blackwire, and the red lead is connected to the lightgreen/pink wire.22 Select millivolts on the voltmeter, thenswitch on the ignition.23 Check that the reading on the voltmeter

scale is now equal to the throttle potentiometervoltage, as given in the Specifications. If this isnot the case, slacken the two retaining screws,and slowly move the potentiometer body untilthe correct reading is obtained (seeillustration). Tighten the screws securely.24 Open and close the throttle several times,then with it closed, check the voltmeterreading once more. Repeat the adjustment ifthe reading is now outside the specifiedtolerance.25 With the adjustments complete, switch offthe engine and disconnect the test instruments.

12 Fuel injection systemcomponents - removal and refitting

3Note: Refer to the precautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

Airflow meter - normally-aspirated enginesRemoval1 Slacken the hose clip and detach the airtrunking from the airflow meter (seeillustration).2 Release the airflow meter wiring harness

from its retaining clip, and disconnect thewiring multiplug.3 Undo the two bolts securing the unit to itsmounting bracket, withdraw the unit from theair cleaner body, and recover the seal.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Airflow meter - turbochargedengines

Removal5 Remove the air cleaner and airflow meterassembly as described in Section 2.6 Slacken the clip and disconnect theturbocharger intake hose from the airflowmeter.7 Undo the four bolts and three nuts andseparate the airflow meter from the air cleanerand bracket assembly.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Idle speed stepper motorRemoval9 Slide back the rubber dust cover (wherefitted), and disconnect the stepper motorwiring multiplug.

Fuel and exhaust systems - Lucas multi-point injection engines 4B•5

11.23 Throttle potentiometer retainingscrews (arrowed)

11.17 Base idle speed adjusting screwtamperproof plug (arrowed)

11.14 Disconnect the stepper motor wiringmultiplug

12.1 Airflow meter attachments

1 Air trunking2 Wiring harness retaining

clip

3 Wiring multiplug4 Retaining bolts

5 Airflow meter6 Seal location

4B

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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10 Using a 32 mm spanner, unscrew thestepper motor from the throttle housing.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Throttle potentiometer

Removal12 Disconnect the throttle potentiometerwiring harness multiplug.13 Using a dab of paint, mark the position ofthe potentiometer in relation to the throttlehousing, so that if the original unit is refitted,its position can be restored.14 Undo the two screws, remove the unitfrom the throttle housing, and recover thegasket (see illustration 11.23).

Refitting15 Refit the potentiometer and gasket, alignthe previously-made mark, then tighten thetwo retaining screws. If a new unit is beingfitted, position it centrally within itsadjustment range.16 Adjust the base idle speed and mixturesettings as described in Section 11.

Throttle housing

Removal17 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.

18 Slacken the hose clip and detach the airintake trunking from the throttle housing (seeillustration).19 Disconnect the throttle potentiometer andstepper motor wiring multiplugs.20 Disconnect the air valve hose from the topof the housing, and the breather hose frombelow.21 Slacken the clips and disconnect the twocoolant hoses from the housing.22 Open the throttle fully by hand, and slipthe accelerator inner cable end out of the sloton the throttle lever.23 Slacken the outer cable locknuts, andunscrew the outer locknut, nearest to thecable end, fully.24 Remove the washer and rubber bush,then withdraw the accelerator cable from thesupport bracket.25 On automatic transmission models,disconnect the kickdown cable using thesame procedure as for the accelerator cable.26 Undo the four retaining nuts and removethe throttle housing from its mounting.27 If further dismantling is required, thestepper motor and throttle potentiometer canbe removed, as described earlier in thisSection.

Refitting28 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refill thecooling system as described in Chapter 1and, on automatic transmission models,

adjust the kickdown cable as described inChapter 7, Part B. Adjust the base idle speedand mixture settings as described in Sec-tion 11 on completion.

Fuel temperature switch

Removal29 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).30 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from thetemperature switch, located in the centre ofthe fuel rail behind the plenum chamber (seeillustration).31 Unscrew the switch and remove it fromthe fuel rail.

Refitting32 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Plenum chamber

Removal33 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).34 Slacken the hose clip and detach the air intake trunking from the throttlehousing.35 Undo the four nuts securing the throttlehousing to the plenumchamber, ease the housing off the studs, andmove it slightly to one side.36 Disconnect the two vacuum hoses at thethrottle housing end of the plenum chamber(see illustration).37 At the other end of the plenum chamber,unscrew the brake servo vacuum hose banjounion bolt, disconnect the vacuum hoseadjacent to the banjo union, and undo the fuelpressure regulator mounting bracket bolt (seeillustration). Recover the two copper washersfrom the banjo union, and note that the hoselocates between two locating pegs in its fittedposition.38 Remove the fuel temperature switch asdescribed previously.39 Undo the two bolts securing the plenumchamber mounting brackets to the camshaftcover (see illustration).40 Undo the six bolts securing the rear of the

4B•6 Fuel and exhaust systems - Lucas multi-point injection engines

12.39 Plenum chamber mounting bracketto camshaft cover bolt (arrowed)

12.37 Brake servo vacuum hose banjounion (A), additional vacuum hose (B), andfuel pressure regulator mounting bracket

bolt (C)

12.36 Vacuum hose connections at thethrottle housing end of the plenum

chamber

12.30 Fuel temperature switch wiringmultiplug

12.18 Air intake trunking retaining clip (A),air valve hose (B), and throttle housing

upper retaining nuts (C)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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plenum chamber to the inlet manifold (seeillustration).41 Lift the plenum chamber off the manifold,and recover the four locating sleeves and O-ring seals.42 Clean the manifold and plenum chambermating faces, and renew the O-ring seals ifthey show any sign of deterioration.

Refitting43 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Fit thelocating sleeves to the manifold before the O-ring seals, and tighten all nuts and boltssecurely.

Fuel pressure regulator

Removal44 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).45 Relieve the fuel system pressure asdescribed in Section 5.46 Detach the breather hose from thecamshaft cover, and move the hose aside(see illustration).47 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the topof the regulator (see illustration).48 Unscrew the fuel return hose union fromthe base of the regulator.49 Undo the regulator bracket retainingbolts, and withdraw the regulator from the fuelrail.

Refitting50 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fuel injectors

Removal51 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).52 Relieve the fuel system pressure asdescribed in Section 5.53 Remove the plenum chamber and fueltemperature switch as described previously.54 Detach the breather hose from thecamshaft cover, and move the hose aside.55 Disconnect the fuel pressure regulatorvacuum hose.56 Undo the fuel pressure regulatormounting bracket bolts.57 Undo the union nut, and disconnect thefuel supply hose from the fuel rail.

58 Undo the union nut, and disconnect thefuel return hose from the fuel pressureregulator.59 Disconnect the multiplugs from each ofthe four injectors (see illustration).60 Undo the two bolts securing the fuel rail tothe inlet manifold.61 Ease the four injectors out of their inletmanifold locations, and lift up the injector andfuel rail assembly. Recover the O-ring sealfrom each injector outlet.62 Extract the retaining clips, and remove theinjectors from the fuel rail. Recover the O-ringseal from each injector inlet.

Refitting63 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butrenew the injector inlet and outlet O-rings.

Electronic control unit (ECU)

Removal64 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).65 Slide the driver’s seat fully forwards.66 From under the driver’s seat, undo thetwo screws and lift off the ECU cover.

67 Undo the bolt securing the rear of themounting bracket to the floor (seeillustration).68 Slide the driver’s seat fully rearwards, andundo the two bolts securing the front of themounting bracket to the floor.69 Withdraw the ECU and mounting bracketassembly from under the seat.70 Depress the multiplug retaining tab, andpull the plug straight from the socket.71 Remove the ECU from the car.

Refitting72 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Resonator unitRefer to Part A, Section 12.

Inertia switchRefer to Part A, Section 12.

13 Turbocharger - descriptionand precautions

Description1 On turbocharged engines, the turbochargerincreases engine efficiency by raising thepressure in the inlet manifold aboveatmospheric pressure. Instead of the airsimply being sucked into the cylinders, it isforced in.2 Energy for the operation of theturbocharger comes from the exhaust gas.

Fuel and exhaust systems - Lucas multi-point injection engines 4B•7

12.47 Fuel pressure regulator vacuumhose (A) and mounting bracket bolts (B)

12.46 Detach the breather hose from thecamshaft cover

12.40 Plenum chamber to inlet manifoldretaining bolt locations

12.67 ECU mounting bracket retaining bolt(arrowed)

12.59 Fuel injector and fuel rail details

1 Injector multiplug2 Fuel rail retaining bolt3 Fuel injector location on inlet manifold4 Injector outlet O-ring seal5 Injector to fuel rail retaining clip6 Injector body7 Injector inlet O-ring seal

4B

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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The gas flows through a specially-shapedhousing (the turbine housing) and in so doing,spins the turbine wheel. The turbine wheel isattached to a shaft, at the end of which isanother vaned wheel known as thecompressor wheel. The compressor wheelspins in its own housing, and compresses theinlet air on the way to the inlet manifold.3 Boost pressure (the pressure in the inletmanifold) is limited by a wastegate, whichdiverts the exhaust gas away from the turbinewheel in response to a pressure-sensitiveactuator.4 The turbo shaft is pressure-lubricated by anoil feed pipe from the main oil gallery. Theshaft “floats” on a cushion of oil. A drain pipereturns the oil to the sump.

Precautions5 The turbocharger operates at extremelyhigh speeds and temperatures. Certainprecautions must be observed, to avoidpremature failure of the turbo, or injury to theoperator.6 Do not operate the turbo with any of itsparts exposed, or with any of its hosesremoved. Foreign objects falling onto therotating vanes could cause excessivedamage, and (if ejected) personal injury.7 Do not race the engine immediately afterstart-up, especially if it is cold. Give the oil afew seconds to circulate.8 Always allow the engine to return to idlespeed before switching it off - do not blip thethrottle and switch off, as this will leave theturbo spinning without lubrication.9 Allow the engine to idle for several minutesbefore switching off after a high-speed run.10 Observe the recommended intervals foroil and filter changing, and use a reputable oilof the specified quality. Neglect of oilchanging, or use of inferior oil, can causecarbon formation on the turbo shaft, leadingto subsequent failure.

14 Turbocharger - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.3 Remove the air cleaner complete withairflow meter assembly as described inSection 2.4 Undo the bolts and remove the heat shieldbehind the alternator.5 Slacken the two clips and remove the oilreturn hose at the base of the turbocharger.6 Slacken the two hose clips and remove airthe outlet hose from the turbocharger.7 Disconnect the vacuum hose at thewastegate solenoid valve.8 Disconnect the oil feed pipe unions at theturbocharger.9 Disconnect the coolant feed and returnhoses at the turbocharger and engine pipeoutlets.10 Remove the engine oil dipstick andrelease the dipstick tube from its upperattachments.11 Release the hose clips and supportbrackets and remove the coolant pipe overthe top of the exhaust manifold.12 Disconnect the wiring multiplug connectorabove the alternator and release the cableharness from its clips.13 Disconnect the wastegate controlsolenoid wiring.14 Undo the three nuts and separate theexhaust downpipe from the turbochargeroutlet flange.15 Undo the exhaust manifold retaining nutsand withdraw the manifold complete with

turbocharger assembly off the studs. Recoverthe manifold gasket.16 Undo the nuts securing the turbochargerto the exhaust manifold and remove theturbocharger. Recover the flange gasket .17 Thoroughly clean all the joint mating facesprior to refitting.

Refitting18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but usenew gaskets at all the flange joints. Refill thecooling system and top-up the engine oil asdescribed in Chapter 1 on completion.

15 Turbocharger - examination and renovation 2

1 With the turbocharger removed, inspect thehousing for cracks or other visible damage.2 Spin the turbine or the compressor wheel,to verify that the shaft is intact and to feel forexcessive shake or roughness. Some play isnormal, since in use, the shaft is “floating” ona film of oil. Check that the wheel vanes areundamaged.3 If the exhaust or induction passages are oil-contaminated, the turbo shaft oil seals haveprobably failed.4 No DIY repair of the turbo is possible. Anew unit may be available on an exchangebasis.

16 Exhaust system - generalinformation and componentrenewal

Refer to Part A, Section 13 and, on vehiclesequipped with a catalytic converter, to Part E,Section 3.

4B•8 Fuel and exhaust systems - Lucas multi-point injection engines

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4C

GeneralSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Modular Engine Management System (MEMS) with indirect multi-point

injectionECU-controlled idle speed:

Normally-aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 825 to 925 rpmPre-1994 turbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 825 to 925 rpm1994-on turbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 775 to 875 rpm

Fuel octane rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded only

Fuel PumpType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AC electricOutput pressure:

Normally-aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 barTurbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.3 bar

Regulated pressure range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8 to 3.2 barDelivery rate (at 3.0 bar and 12 volts):

Normally-aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 litres/hourTurbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 litres/hour

TurbochargerType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Garret T25Wastegate opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.43 bar

Chapter 4 Part C: Fuel and exhaust systems –MEMS multi-point injection engines

Accelerator cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 3Accelerator cable and linkage check and lubrication . . .See Chapter 1Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Air cleaner assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Catalytic converter - general information and

precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 4EExhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2AExhaust system - general information and component renewal . . . . 17Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Fuel injection system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Fuel injection system - testing and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Fuel injection system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 12Fuel pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Fuel system - depressurisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Fuel tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2AIntercooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Oxygen sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 4ETurbocharger - description and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Turbocharger - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Turbocharger - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Underbody fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1Unleaded petrol - general information and usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

4C•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

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Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftFuel filter banjo union bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28Fuel pressure regulator retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Brake servo hose banjo union bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Plenum chamber to inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Fuel rail to inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Fuel pump banjo union bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Fuel tank drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Fuel tank strap locknuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Fuel temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Turbocharger to exhaust manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Turbocharger exhaust elbow bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Turbocharger to exhaust front pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Exhaust front pipe to manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Exhaust section flange nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Exhaust heat shield retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

4C•2 Fuel and exhaust systems - MEMS multi-point injection engines

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 General information andprecautions

The fuel system used on later Rover 820i,Si, SLi and Vitesse models consists of acentrally-mounted fuel tank, electric fuelpump and indirect multi-point fuel injection,as part of the Modular Engine ManagementSystem (MEMS). A more detailed descriptionof the system is contained in Section 10.

The exhaust system consists of a front,intermediate and rear section, suspended fromthe underbody on rubber mountings, andbolted to a cast iron manifold at the front. Acatalytic converter is fitted between the frontand intermediate sections and a flexible joint isalso incorporated in the front section, to allowfor engine and exhaust system movement.

PrecautionsWarning: Many of theprocedures in this Chapterrequire the removal of fuel linesand connections, which may

result in some fuel spillage. Petrol isextremely flammable, so take extraprecautions when you work on any part ofthe fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allowopen flames or bare light bulbs, near thework area. Don’t work in a garage where anatural gas-type appliance (such as awater heater or clothes dryer) with a pilotlight is present. If you spill any fuel on yourskin, rinse it off immediately with soap andwater. When you perform any kind of workon the fuel system, wear safety glasses,and have a Class B type fire extinguisheron hand. Before carrying out any operationon the fuel system, refer also to theprecautions given in “Safety first!” at thebeginning of this manual, and follow themimplicitly. Petrol is a highly-dangerous andvolatile liquid, and the precautionsnecessary when handling it cannot beoverstressed.

Reference must also be made to Chapter 5,Section 1 for precautionary notes concerningthe ignition system and battery disconnection,

and to any further safety-related textcontained within the appropriate Section,before working on the vehicle.

Certain adjustment points in the fuel systemare protected by tamperproof caps, plugs orseals. In some territories, it is an offence todrive a vehicle with broken or missingtamperproof seals. Before disturbing atamperproof seal, first check that no local ornational laws will be broken by doing so, andfit a new tamperproof seal after adjustment iscomplete, where required by law. Do notbreak tamperproof seals on any vehicle whilstit is still under warranty.

When working on fuel system components,scrupulous cleanliness must be observed andcare must be taken not to introduce anyforeign matter into the fuel lines orcomponents.

2 Air cleaner assembly -removal and refitting 1

Note: Air cleaner element renewal isdescribed in Chapter 1.

Removal

Normally-aspirated engines1 Remove the battery as described inChapter 5.2 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect theair intake hose between the throttle housingand air cleaner at the air cleaner end.3 Undo the two bolts securing the air cleanerassembly to the mounting bracket.4 Disengage the peg at the base of the aircleaner, release the unit from the intake ductsand remove it from the engine compartment.5 The remaining intake ducts can now beremoved as required.

Turbocharged engines6 Slacken the clip and release the air intakehose on the side of the air cleaner body.7 Slacken the clip and release the boostcontrol solenoid valve hose from itsconnection next to the air intake hose.8 Undo the two bolts on the side of the air

cleaner body and remove the unit from theengine compartment.9 The remaining intake ducts can now beremoved as required.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butensure that all the ducts and trunking are fullyengaged before tightening the variousretaining bolts.

3 Accelerator cable - removal,refitting and adjustment 2

Removal1 Open the throttle fully by hand, and slip theinner cable end out of the slot on the throttlelever.2 Unclip the square nut and release the cablefrom the support bracket.3 Release the cable from the support clip inthe engine compartment.4 From inside the car, release the turnbucklesand lift out the trim panel over the clutch,brake and accelerator pedals.5 Prise the retaining clip from the top of theaccelerator pedal, and disconnect the innercable.6 Release the cable from the enginecompartment bulkhead by turning the retainerthrough 90º and withdraw the cable from thecar.

Refitting and adjustment

Models up to VIN 1522067 Refit the cable at the pedal end using areversal of removal.8 At the throttle housing end, screw thesquare adjusting nut fully onto the threadedportion of the outer cable.9 Connect the inner cable to the throttle lever,and locate the outer cable in the slot in thesupport bracket.10 Hold the throttle closed then pull the outercable away from the throttle lever until allslack and lost motion are taken up.

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11 Keeping the cable in this position, screwthe square nut along the threaded portion ofthe outer cable until it just touches thesupport bracket.12 Without moving the square nut, clip it intoits slot in the support bracket.

Models from VIN 15220613 Switch the ignition on, wait five secondsthen switch it off again. This will move thestepper motor to the adjustment position.14 Refit the cable at the pedal end using areversal of removal.15 At the throttle housing end, screw thesquare adjusting nut fully onto the threadedportion of the outer cable.16 Connect the inner cable to the throttlelever, and locate the outer cable in the slot inthe support bracket.17 Hold the throttle lever closed and checkthat the throttle position screw is in contactwith the stepper motor pin.18 Pull the outer cable away from the throttlelever until all slack and lost motion are takenup.19 Keeping the cable in this position, screwthe square nut along the threaded portion ofthe outer cable until it just touches thesupport bracket.20 Without moving the square nut, clip it intoits slot in the support bracket.

4 Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting

Refer to Part A, Section 4, but note that theaccelerator pedal switch is only fitted tocertain models.

5 Fuel system -depressurisation

Note: Refer to the precautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

Refer to Part B, Section 5.

6 Fuel pump - removal and refitting

Note: Refer to the precautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

Refer to Part A, Section 6.

7 Fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting

Note: Refer to the precautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

Refer to Part A, Section 7.

8 Fuel tank - removal,inspection and refitting

Note: Refer to the precautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

Refer to Part A, Section 8.

9 Unleaded petrol - generalinformation and usage

Refer to Part A, Section 9.

10 Fuel injection system -general information

The Modular Engine Management System(MEMS) is used on later models equippedwith the “T” series 4-cylinder engine. Itcontrols a multi-point fuel injection system, anemissions control system and a programmedignition system as a total engine managementpackage (see illustration).

One Electronic Control Unit (ECU) controls

all the fuelling, emission and ignitionrequirements of the engine. The ECUincorporates short circuit protection and canalso store information on certain intermittentfaults for interrogation by computerised testequipment.

the ECU utilises a speed/density method ofairflow measurement to calculate fuel delivery.This method, using the engine as a pre-calibrated vacuum pump, with itscharacteristics stored in the ECU, measuresthe air inlet temperature and inlet manifoldpressure, allowing the correct amount of fuelper air density/speed to be injected.

Should certain elements of the system fail,the ECU can implement a back-up facility,allowing the system to operate at a reducedlevel of performance until the fault can berectified.

A diagnostic socket allows tuning or faultdiagnosis to be carried out on test equipmentwithout disconnecting the ECU wiringharness.

On early versions of the system, anaccelerator pedal switch triggers the ECUbetween the main fuelling map when theswitch is open (accelerator pedal depressed)and idle speed control when the switch isclosed (pedal released). The pedal switch also

Fuel and exhaust systems - MEMS multi-point injection engines 4C•3

10.1 Main components of the MEMS multi-point fuel injection system

4C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Crankshaft sensor2 Inertia switch3 Fuel pump4 Purge control valve5 ECU6 Relay module7 Charcoal canister8 Ignition coil9 Diagnostic connector10 Fuel pressure regulator11 Fuel injectors12 Fuel temperature sensor13 Intake air temperature

sensor14 Knock sensor15 Throttle potentiometer16 Stepper motor17 Coolant temperature

sensor18 Oxygen sensor19 Distributor cap20 Accelerator pedal switch21 Purge control valve22 Charcoal canister

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controls an over-run fuel cut-off function. Onlater versions of the system, the manifoldabsolute pressure sensor is used to performthe functions of the pedal switch.

The ECU, in determining optimum ignitiontiming, receives information from thecrankshaft sensor (engine speed andcrankshaft position), manifold absolutepressure sensor (engine load), knock sensor(detonation), coolant temperature sensor(engine temperature) and where fitted, fromthe accelerator pedal switch (pedal position),to determine main fuelling or idle speedcontrol.

It can be seen that the system is similar tothe earlier fuel injection system described inPart B of this Chapter, the main differencesbeing the method of determining airflow (thereis no airflow meter) and the combining of thefuel and ignition ECUs into one unit.

11 Fuel injection system -testing and adjustment 5

Testing1 If a fault appears in the fuel injectionsystem, first ensure that all the system wiringconnectors are securely connected and freeof corrosion. Then ensure that the fault is notdue to poor maintenance; ie, check that theair cleaner filter element is clean, the sparkplugs are in good condition and correctlygapped, the cylinder compression pressuresare correct, and that the engine breatherhoses are clear and undamaged, referring tothe relevant Sections of this Chapter, and toChapters 1 and 2 for further information.2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause ofthe problem, the vehicle should be taken to asuitably equipped Rover dealer for testing onRover dedicated test equipment. Thisequipment will locate the fault quickly andsimply, alleviating the need to test all the

system components individually, which is atime-consuming operation that carries anelement of risk of damaging the ECU.

Adjustment3 As all the fuelling and ignition requirementsare performed entirely by the electroniccontrol unit, no adjustments to the system arepossible. Any irregularities in idling speedstability or engine performance may indicate afault in the system and should be referred to adealer for diagnosis and rectification.

12 Fuel injection systemcomponents - removal and refitting

3Note: Refer to the precautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

Intake air temperature sensor

Removal1 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from thetemperature sensor located on the inletmanifold.2 Unscrew the sensor and remove it from themanifold.

Refitting3 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Throttle housing

Removal4 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs from thestepper motor and throttle potentiometer (seeillustration).5 Slacken the clip and detach the air intakehose from the throttle housing.6 Disconnect the accelerator cable from thethrottle lever and support bracket asdescribed in Section 3.7 On automatic transmission models,disconnect the kick-down cable from thethrottle lever and support bracket referring toChapter 7, Part B if necessary.

8 Release the clips and disconnect thebreather hoses.9 Unscrew the four nuts securing the throttlehousing to the inlet manifold and remove thethrottle housing.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cableas described in Section 3, and on automatictransmission models, the kick-down cable asdescribed in Chapter 7, Part B.

Throttle potentiometerNote: If the potentiometer is being renewed, itwill be necessary to have the new unitadjusted by a Rover dealer on completion.

Removal11 Remove the throttle housing as describedpreviously.12 Using a dab of paint, mark the position ofthe potentiometer in relation to the throttlehousing, so that if the original unit is refitted,its position can be restored.13 Undo the two screws, remove the unitfrom the throttle housing, and recover thegasket.

Refitting14 Refit the potentiometer and gasket, alignthe previously-made mark, then tighten thetwo retaining screws.15 If a new unit is being fitted, position itcentrally within its adjustment range.16 Refit the throttle housing as describedpreviously.17 Have the potentiometer adjusted by aRover dealer if a new unit was fitted.

Accelerator pedal switch18 Refer to Part A, Section 4.

Fuel temperature sensor

Removal19 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from thetemperature sensor located on the fuel rail.20 Unscrew the sensor, remove it from thefuel rail and recover the sealing washer.

Refitting21 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use anew sealing washer.

Fuel pressure regulator

Removal22 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).23 Relieve the fuel system pressure asdescribed in Part B, Section 5.24 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the topof the regulator (see illustration).25 Release the clip and disconnect the fuelreturn hose from the base of the regulator.26 Undo the regulator bracket retainingbolts, withdraw the regulator from the fuel railand recover the O-ring seal. Plug the fuel railwhile the regulator is removed.

4C•4 Fuel and exhaust systems - MEMS multi-point injection engines

12.4 Stepper motor and throttle potentiometer details

1 Intake hose clip2 Intake hose3 Stepper motor multiplug

4 Potentiometer multiplug5 Breather hose6 Throttle cable bracket

7 Cam lever8 Kick-down cable cam lever9 Throttle housing nuts

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Refitting27 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use anew O-ring seal.

Plenum chamber

Removal28 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).29 Slacken the hose clip and detach the airintake trunking from the throttle housing.30 Undo the four nuts securing the throttlehousing to the plenum chamber, ease thehousing off the studs, and move it slightly toone side.31 Disconnect the vacuum hoses at eachend of the plenum chamber.

32 Disconnect the purge control valve hosefrom the plenum chamber (see illustration).33 Unscrew the brake servo vacuum hosebanjo union bolt and recover the two copperwashers from the banjo union.34 Detach the engine breather hose from theplenum chamber.35 Disconnect the fuel temperature sensorwiring multiplug.38 Undo the two bolts securing the plenumchamber mounting brackets to the camshaftcover.39 Undo the six bolts securing the rear of theplenum chamber to the inlet manifold.40 Lift the plenum chamber off the manifold,and recover the gasket.41 Clean the manifold and plenum chambermating faces and obtain a new gasket.

Refitting42 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use anew gasket and tighten the nuts and bolts tothe specified torque.

Fuel injectors and fuel railRemoval43 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).44 Relieve the fuel system pressure asdescribed in Part B, Section 5.45 Remove the plenum chamber asdescribed previously.46 Undo the four bolts and disconnect thefuel feed hose flange bracket from the side ofthe fuel rail. Plug the hose and fuel rail afterdisconnection.47 Disconnect the multiplugs from each ofthe four injectors and move the injector wiringharness aside.48 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the topof the fuel pressure regulator.49 Release the clip and disconnect the fuelreturn hose from the base of the regulator.

50 Undo the regulator bracket retainingbolts, withdraw the regulator from the fuel railand recover the O-ring seal. Plug the fuel railwhile the regulator is removed.51 Undo the three bolts securing the fuel railto the inlet manifold.52 Ease the four injectors out of their inletmanifold locations, and lift up the injector andfuel rail assembly. Recover the O-ring sealfrom each injector outlet.53 Extract the retaining clips, and remove theinjectors from the fuel rail. Recover the O-ringseal from each injector inlet.

Refitting54 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butrenew the injector inlet and outlet O-rings.

Electronic control unit and relaymoduleRemoval55 Lift the charcoal canister out of itsmounting bracket and move it to one side.56 Release the relay module from the bracketon the front of the ECU.57 Disconnect the two wiring multiplugs andthe vacuum hose, then undo the three boltsand remove the ECU from the mountingbracket.

Refitting58 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Inertia switchRemoval59 Disconnect the wiring multiplug, undo thetwo screws and remove the switch from theengine compartment bulkhead.

Refitting60 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Boost control solenoid(Turbocharged engines)Removal61 Refer to Chapter 5, and remove thebattery.62 Slacken the clip and release the air intakehose on the side of the air cleaner body.63 Slacken the clip and release the boostcontrol solenoid valve hose from itsconnection next to the air intake hose on theair cleaner.64 Undo the two bolts on the side of the aircleaner body and remove the unit from theengine compartment.65 Release the clips and disconnect thethree hoses from the boost control solenoid.66 Disconnect the wiring multiplug, undo theretaining bolt and remove the solenoid fromthe battery tray.

Refitting67 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Camshaft sensor (Turbochargedengines)Removal68 Disconnect the sensor wiring harness atthe connector.

Fuel and exhaust systems - MEMS multi-point injection engines 4C•5

12.24 Fuel pressure regulator attachments

2 Vacuum hose3 Fuel return hose clip4 Fuel return hose5 Regulator bracket retaining bolts6 Regulator bracket7 Fuel pressure regulator

12.32 Plenum chamber attachment details

4C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

3 Brake servo banjo bolt4 Brake servo vacuum

pipe5 Fuel temperature sensor

multiplug6 Vacuum hoses7 Purge control valve hose8 Breather hose

10 Mounting bracket bolts11 Mounting brackets12 Plenum chamber to inlet

manifold bolts13 Plenum chamber

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69 Undo the retaining bolt and remove thesensor from the housing on the end of thecylinder head.

Refitting70 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

13 Turbocharger - descriptionand precautions

Refer to Part B, Section 13.

14 Turbocharger - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.3 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Section 2.4 Undo the two nuts and remove the oil return hose elbow from the side of thesump.5 Undo the three nuts and separate theexhaust downpipe from the turbochargeroutlet flange. Recover the flange gasket.6 Undo the two bolts securing the coolant

pipe over the top of the exhaust manifold.7 Release the oxygen sensor multiplug fromthe thermostat housing, disconnect themultiplug and remove the harness from theclip on the top hose.8 Slacken the hose clip and remove thecoolant pipe from the hose on the side of thethermostat housing.9 Slacken the hose clip and remove the airintake hose from the turbocharger.10 Slacken the two hose clips and remove airthe outlet hose from the turbocharger andintercooler.11 Disconnect the oil feed pipe union at theturbocharger.12 Disconnect the vacuum hose at thewastegate solenoid valve.13 Disconnect the coolant feed and returnhoses at the turbocharger.14 Release the clip on the turbochargervacuum hose and remove the hose from theturbocharger.15 On models without air conditioning, undothe nuts and remove the alternator heatshield.16 Undo the exhaust manifold retaining nutsand bolts and withdraw the manifoldcomplete with turbocharger assembly off thestuds. Recover the manifold gasket.17 Undo the nuts securing the turbochargerto the exhaust manifold and remove theturbocharger. Recover the flange gasket .18 Thoroughly clean all the joint mating facesprior to refitting.

Refitting19 Refitting is a reversal of removal bearingin mind the following points:(a) Use new gaskets at all the flange joints

and new nuts at the turbocharger tomanifold connection.

(b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque.

(c) Refill the cooling system and top up theengine oil as described in Chapter 1.

15 Turbocharger - examination and renovation

Refer to Part B, Section 15.

16 Intercooler - removal and refitting

The intercooler is removed as an assemblywith the cooling system radiator. Refer toChapter 3, Section 7 for details.

17 Exhaust system - generalinformation and componentrenewal

Refer to Part A, Section 13 for exhaustsystem details and to Part E, Section 3, forinformation on the catalytic converter.

4C•6 Fuel and exhaust systems - MEMS multi-point injection engines

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4D

GeneralSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Programmed fuel injection system with sequential injectionIdle speed:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 720 to 820 rpm2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 670 to 770 rpm

Idle mixture CO contentModels without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.75%Models with catalytic converter * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1%

* Non-adjustable - controlled by ECUFuel octane rating **:

Models without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 RON leaded or 95 RON unleadedModels with catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded only

** See text - Section 9

Fuel PumpType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nippon Denso, electricOutput pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 barRegulated pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 barDelivery rate (at 12 volts in 10 seconds) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 cc

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftElectronic idle control valve retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Fast idle valve retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Fuel filter banjo union bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28Fuel pump banjo union bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Fuel rail banjo union bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Throttle body retaining nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Fuel tank drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Fuel tank strap locknuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Exhaust front pipes to manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26Exhaust section flange nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26

Chapter 4 Part D: Fuel and exhaust systems –Honda PGM-Fi injection engines

Accelerator cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 3Accelerator cable and linkage check and lubrication . . .See Chapter 1Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Air cleaner assembly and intake components - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Catalytic converter - general information and

precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 4ECruise control system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Cruise control system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . 14Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2AExhaust system - general information and component renewal . . . . 15Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Fuel injection system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Fuel injection system - testing and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Fuel injection system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 12Fuel pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Fuel system - depressurisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Fuel tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2AOxygen sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 4EUnderbody fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1Unleaded petrol - general information and usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

4D•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

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1 General information andprecautions

The fuel system used on V6 engine Rovermodels consists of a centrally-mounted fueltank, electric fuel pump and Honda PGM-Fiprogrammed fuel injection system A moredetailed description of the system iscontained in Section 10.

The exhaust system consists of a front,intermediate and rear section, suspendedfrom the underbody on rubber mountings, andbolted to two cast iron manifolds at the front.A catalytic converter is fitted between thefront and intermediate sections on latermodels and a flexible joint is also incorporatedin the front section, to allow for engine andexhaust system movement.

PrecautionsWarning: Many of theprocedures in this Chapterrequire the removal of fuel linesand connections, which may

result in some fuel spillage. Petrol isextremely flammable, so take extraprecautions when you work on any part ofthe fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allowopen flames or bare light bulbs, near thework area. Don’t work in a garage where anatural gas-type appliance (such as awater heater or clothes dryer) with a pilotlight is present. If you spill any fuel on yourskin, rinse it off immediately with soap andwater. When you perform any kind of workon the fuel system, wear safety glasses,and have a Class B type fire extinguisheron hand. Before carrying out any operationon the fuel system, refer also to theprecautions given in “Safety first!” at thebeginning of this manual, and follow themimplicitly. Petrol is a highly-dangerous andvolatile liquid, and the precautionsnecessary when handling it cannot beoverstressed.

Reference must also be made to Chapter 5,Section 1 for precautionary notes concerningthe ignition system and battery disconnection,and to any further safety-related text

contained within the appropriate Section,before working on the vehicle.

Certain adjustment points in the fuel systemare protected by tamperproof caps, plugs orseals. In some territories, it is an offence todrive a vehicle with broken or missingtamperproof seals. Before disturbing atamperproof seal, first check that no local ornational laws will be broken by doing so, andfit a new tamperproof seal after adjustment iscomplete, where required by law. Do notbreak tamperproof seals on any vehicle whilstit is still under warranty.

When working on fuel system components,scrupulous cleanliness must be observed andcare must be taken not to introduce anyforeign matter into the fuel lines orcomponents.

2 Air cleaner assembly andintake components - removal and refitting

1Note: Air cleaner element renewal isdescribed in Chapter 1.Note: Due to the limited space available,access to the air intake trunking and aircleaner assembly can be improved if thebattery is removed first. If this is to be done,refer to Chapter 5, Section 1, for precautionsconcerning battery disconnection.

Air intake trunkingRemoval1 Release the coil HT cable from the clip on

top of the upper intake trunking (seeillustration).2 Undo the breather pipe support bracketbolt and remove the breather pipe from theside of the upper intake trunking (seeillustration).3 Slacken the clip securing the uppertrunking to the throttle body and the clipsecuring the lower intake trunking to the aircleaner assembly.4 Release the trunking from the throttle bodyand air cleaner; slacken the centre clip,securing the upper and lower trunking partstogether.5 Separate the upper trunking from the lowertrunking and manipulate both parts out of theengine compartment.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Air cleaner assembly

Removal7 Remove the air intake trunking as describedpreviously.8 Release the clip securing the resonatorvacuum hose to the front of the air cleanerassembly and undo the wiring harnesssupport clip bolt at the rear (seeillustrations).9 Slacken the air duct retaining clip.10 Undo the two bolts securing the aircleaner assembly to the battery tray (seeillustrations).

4D•2 Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines

2.10a Undo the rear bolt arrowed . . .2.8b . . . and undo the wiring harnesssupport clip bolt (arrowed) at the rear

2.8a Release the clip securing theresonator vacuum hose to the front of the

air cleaner assembly . . .

2.2 Remove the breather pipe from theside of the upper intake trunking

2.1 Release the coil HT cable from the clipon top of the upper intake trunking

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11 Release the air cleaner assembly from theair duct, disengage the locating pegs and liftthe assembly out of the engine compartment.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Air duct

Removal13 Remove the battery as described inChapter 5.14 Remove the air intake trunking and the aircleaner assembly as described previously.15 Undo the three bolts and lift out thebattery tray.16 Undo the air duct upper retaining bolt,release the duct from the resonator andmanipulate the assembly from its location.

Refitting17 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

3 Accelerator cable - removal,refitting and adjustment 2

Removal1 Open the throttle fully by hand, and slip theinner cable end out of the slot on the throttlelever (see illustration).2 Slacken the outer cable locknuts, thenwithdraw the outer cable from the supportbracket (see illustration).

3 From inside the car, release the turnbucklesand lift out the trim panel over the clutch,brake and accelerator pedals.4 Prise the retaining clip from the top of theaccelerator pedal, and disconnect the innercable.5 Release the cable from the enginecompartment bulkhead, and the support clips;withdraw the cable from the car (seeillustration).

Refitting and adjustment6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust thecable by means of the outer cable locknuts, togive a small amount of free play with thethrottle closed. The adjustment is correctwhen there is approximately 10 to 12 mm ofdeflection on the inner cable.7 Check that the throttle butterfly opens fullywith the accelerator pedal depressed to the floor, and closes completely whenreleased.

4 Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting

Refer to Part A, Section 4, but note that theaccelerator pedal switch is only fitted tocertain models. On models equipped withcruise control, release the cruise control cablefrom the pedal in the same way as theaccelerator cable.

5 Fuel system -depressurisation 1

Note: Refer to the precautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.1 The fuel system referred to in this Chapteris defined as the fuel tank and tank-mountedfuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit, the fuelfilter, the fuel pressure regulator, the fuelinjectors, and the metal pipes and flexiblehoses of the fuel lines between thesecomponents. Most of these contain fuel whichwill be under pressure while the engine isrunning and/or while the ignition is switchedon.2 The pressure will remain for some time afterthe ignition has been switched off, and mustbe relieved before any of these componentsare disturbed for servicing or repair work.3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).4 Place absorbent rags around the bleedscrew in the centre of fuel filter outlet unionbanjo bolt, then slowly unscrew the bleedscrew to release the system pressure (seeillustration).5 Once the pressure has been completelyrelieved, tighten the bleed screw and disposeof the rags safely.

6 Fuel pump - removal and refitting

Refer to Part A, Section 6.

7 Fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting

Refer to Part A, Section 7.

Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines 4D•3

3.2 Slacken the outer cable locknuts, thenwithdraw the outer cable from the support

bracket

3.1 Slip the accelerator inner cable endout of the slot on the throttle lever

2.10b . . . and front bolt, securing the aircleaner assembly to the battery tray

5.4 Releasing the fuel system pressure atthe bleed screw on the banjo union

3.5 Release the cable from the supportclips

4D

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8 Fuel tank - removal,inspection and refitting

Refer to Part A, Section 8.

9 Unleaded petrol - generalinformation and usage

Note: The information given in this Chapter iscorrect at the time of writing, and applies onlyto petrols currently available in the UK. Ifupdated information is thought to be required,check with a Rover dealer. If travelling abroad,consult one of the motoring organisations (or asimilar authority) for advice on the petrolsavailable and their suitability for your vehicle.1 The recommended fuel is given in theSpecifications at the beginning of thisChapter, followed by the equivalent petrol onsale in the UK.2 RON and MON are different testingstandards; RON stands for Research OctaneNumber (also written as RM), while MONstands for Motor Octane Number (also writtenas MN).3 All non-catalyst equipped V6 enginemodels covered by this manual are designedto run on leaded or unleaded petrols.Depending on the petrol used, the ignitiontiming will have to be adjusted accordingly.Details of this procedure are covered inChapter 5, Section 10. Only unleaded petrolmay be used in those models fitted with acatalytic converter.

10 Fuel injection system -general information

The Honda PGM-Fi programmed fuelinjection system is used on all V6 enginemodels covered by this manual. There aredetail differences between the system usedon the 2.5 litre engines and that used on 2.7 litre models, but these are of a minornature and mainly reflect the system’sdevelopment over the years. The system is acomplex and highly sophisticated total enginemanagement package, controlling the fuelinjection, the fuel and exhaust emissions, andthe ignition system, from one electroniccontrol unit (ECU) (see illustration).

The tank-mounted fuel pump supplies fuelunder pressure to the fuel rails; the pressurebeing controlled by the fuel pressureregulator. Fuel from the fuel rails is supplied tothe fuel injectors which are then operated bythe ECU according to a number of operatingparameters.

The ECU contains memories for the basicfuel injector opening times for various enginespeed and load conditions. Numeroussensors on and around the engine are used to

4D•4 Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines

10.1 Main components of the PGM-Fi programmed fuel injection system

Note: Components and locations may differ slightly between models

1 Ignition timing sensor2 Manifold absolute pressure

sensor3 Constant vacuum control

valve4 Air suction control solenoid

valve5 EGR control solenoid valve6 Throttle dashpot air filter7 Air reservoir8 Pressure regulator control

cut-off solenoid valve9 Bypass control solenoid

valve A

10 Bypass control solenoidvalve B

11 Main system ECU12 Cooling fan timer module13 Injector resistor pack14 Air conditioning clutch

relay15 Main system relay16 Oil temperature sensor17 Inertia switch18 Transmission shift position

switch19 Absolute pressure sensor20 Crank/cylinder sensor21 Fuel injectors

22 Fuel pump23 Power steering switch24 Oxygen sensor25 EGR valve lift sensor26 TDC sensor27 Intake air temperature

sensor28 Electronic idle control valve29 Throttle angle sensor30 Coolant temperature

sensor31 Speedometer transducer32 Resonator control valve

solenoid33 ECU link connector

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modify these basic values to “fine-tune” theinjector opening times to suit preciseoperating conditions. Information oncrankshaft speed and position, coolanttemperature, intake air temperature, ambientair temperature, manifold pressure,atmospheric pressure and vehicle speed issupplied to the ECU by the sensors, to enableinitial injection time to be established.Additional sensors are used, according tomodel and equipment levels, to supplyinformation on exhaust emissions, airconditioning system operation, automatictransmission shift position, etc.

Engine idle speed is also controlled by theECU in conjunction with an electronic idlecontrol valve. This valve changes the amountof air bypassing into the inlet manifold inresponse to sensor information processed bythe ECU. This results in a stabilized idle speedirrespective of additional loads imposed onthe engine from such sources as thealternator, power steering pump, automatictransmission, air conditioning compressor, orother external factors such as temperatureand altitude. Additionally, a temperatureconscious fast idle control bypass valve isused to increase the amount of air bypassinginto the inlet manifold during warm-upconditions.

Should certain elements of the system fail,the ECU can implement a back-up facility,allowing the system to operate at reducedperformance until the fault can be rectified.

A self-diagnosis function is also providedwhereby any faults detected by the ECU arestored in its memory and displayed as codesby a flashing red LED whenever the ignition isswitched on. A second LED is also providedto indicate whether the initial (manually set)idle speed adjustment is correct. Both theseLED’s are located on the front of the ECU andcan be seen by looking under the front of thedriver’s seat.

11 Fuel injection system -testing and adjustment 4

Testing1 If a fault appears in the fuel injection system(indicated by the red LED on the ECU flashinga series of codes), first ensure that all thesystem wiring connectors are securelyconnected and free of corrosion. Then ensurethat the fault is not due to poor maintenance;ie, check that the air cleaner filter element isclean, the spark plugs are in good conditionand correctly gapped, the cylindercompression pressures are correct, and thatthe engine breather hoses are clear andundamaged, referring to the relevant Partsand Sections of this Chapter, and to Chap-ters 1 and 2 for further information.2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause of

the problem, the vehicle should be taken to asuitably equipped Rover dealer for the faultcodes to be interpreted and the fault isolated.This will alleviate the need to test all thesystem components individually, which is atime-consuming operation that carries anelement of risk of damaging the ECU.

Adjustment

Engine tuning procedure3 The fuel injection system is such that oncethe initial engine idle speed and mixturesettings have been set, they are thencontrolled by the system’s ECU for alloperating conditions. Although the settingsshould be checked at the recommendedservice intervals, it is unlikely that anyadjustment will be needed unless a newcomponent has been fitted. Note also that theidle mixture setting can only be adjusted onearly models that are not equipped with acatalytic converter.4 Before making any changes to the settingsof the fuel injection system, ensure that thespark plug gaps are correctly set, the aircleaner element is clean, there are no leaks inthe exhaust system, and the ignition system isoperating correctly. Ensure that all breatherand vacuum hoses are connected, and thatnone are perished or kinked.5 Check that there is the correct amount offree play in the accelerator cable, and that thethrottle lever rests against its stop in thereleased condition. Adjust the cable asdescribed in Section 3 if necessary.6 Temperature effects, and engine andtransmission oil drag, can influence the idlespeed and mixture settings, and it is importantthat the following warm-up procedure isadopted before attempting any adjustments.7 Drive the car on the road for approximatelytwo to four miles, dependent on summer orwinter conditions, in a normal manner, withoutexcessive load, engine speed or road speed.8 Return the car to the working area, ensurethat the steering is in the straight aheadposition then switch the engine off andconnect a tachometer to the engine inaccordance with the equipment

manufacturer’s instructions. If the mixturesetting is being checked, connect an exhaustgas analyser (CO meter) in accordance withthe equipment manufacturer’s instructionsalso. The analyser should be warmed up,correctly calibrated and ready for immediateuse. Commence the adjustment proceduredescribed below immediately.

Idle speed adjustment9 With the engine idling, check the yellowLED display on the fuel system ECU, bylooking under the front of the driver’s seat.The LED is visible through the window on theECU case (see illustration). If the LED is notilluminated, the idle speed is correct and no adjustment is required. If the LED is illuminated or blinking, adjustment isrequired.10 Switch off all electrical accessories, andensure that they remain switched offthroughout the adjustment procedure.11 If the LED is illuminated constantly (notblinking), turn the adjustment screw on theidle valve anti-clockwise to correct thesetting. If the LED is blinking, turn theadjustment screw clockwise (seeillustration). Always turn the adjustmentscrew in 90º increments, and wait thirtyseconds for the idle speed to stabilise.Check the idling speed on the tachometerand compare it with the figures given in theSpecifications. Repeat the adjustment untilthe setting is correct.

Idle mixture adjustment12 As mentioned earlier, the idle mixture canonly be adjusted on models without a catalyticconverter.13 According to model, the idle mixtureadjuster will be located in one of three places:2.5 litre models - In the control box on the

engine compartment bulkhead (seeillustration).

2.7 litre models - In the control box on theengine compartment bulkhead, or on thefuse and relay box in the facia on thedriver’s side, or in front of the fuel systemECU under the driver’s seat (seeillustrations).

Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines 4D•5

11.11 Idle speed adjustment screw(arrowed) on the idle valve. (On 2.5 litreengines the screw is on the side of the

valve)

11.9 The ECU viewing window where thered and yellow LEDs can be seen (driver’s

seat removed for clarity)

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14 Locate the adjuster and hook out thetamperproof cap over the adjusting screw, iffitted.15 Refer to the engine tuning procedureinformation contained above before starting.16 Switch off all electrical accessories, andensure that they remain switched offthroughout the adjustment procedure.17 If, during the adjustment procedure, thecooling fan operates, or if adjustment is notcompleted within two minutes, accelerate theengine to 2000 rpm, and hold this speed forten seconds. Repeat this every two minutesuntil the adjustments are completed.18 With the engine idling and the exhaust gasanalyser connected, take a reading of theexhaust gas CO content. If this is not as givenin the Specifications, turn the screw clockwiseto enrich the mixture, or anti-clockwise toweaken it as necessary.19 On completion, disconnect the exhaustgas analyser and check the idle speed settingas described above.

12 Fuel injection systemcomponents - removal and refitting

3Note: Refer to the precautions contained inSection 1 before proceeding.

Atmospheric pressure sensorRemoval1 Open the fusebox cover under the facia onthe driver’s side.2 Undo the retaining screw and withdraw thesensor from the mounting bracket.3 Disconnect the wiring multiplug andremove the sensor.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

ResonatorRemoval5 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front ofthe car and support it on axle stands.6 Undo the two screws and one bolt securing

the access panel to the underside of the frontwheelarch on the left-hand side.7 Undo the four remaining screws, disengagethe access panel from the front spoiler, andremove it from under the car.8 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from thecontrol solenoid.9 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the T-piececonnector.10 Undo the two bolts and withdraw theresonator assembly from under the frontwheelarch.11 Remove the spacers and rubbermountings from the resonator.

12 With the unit removed, the controlsolenoid and valve control diaphragm,together with the pipes and hoses, can beremoved as required.

Refitting13 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Throttle bodyRemoval14 Partially drain the cooling system asdescribed in Chapter 1, to below the level ofthe throttle body.15 Open the throttle fully by hand, and slipthe accelerator inner cable end out of the sloton the throttle lever (see illustration).

4D•6 Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines

12.15 Throttle body components and attachment details1 Outer accelerator cable2 Inner accelerator

connection3 Kick-down cable4 Kickdown cable support

bracket screws5 Throttle angle sensor

wiring multiplug6 Breather pipe retaining bolt

7 Breather pipe upperconnection

8 Breather pipe lowerconnection

9 Intake trunking clip10 Intake trunking11 Throttle diaphragm vacuum

hose

12 Support strap rear bolt13 Support strap front bolt14 Support strap15 Lower air hose16 Throttle body retaining nuts17 Throttle body18 Rubber insulator retaining

bolts19 Rubber insulator

11.13c Idle mixture adjuster screw (1)under the driver’s seat on later 2.7 litre

non-catalyst engines

11.13b Idle mixture adjuster location onearly 2.7 litre non-catalyst engines

1 Remove fusebox cover for access2 Hook out tamperproof cap3 Turn adjuster as required

11.13a This is actually the ignition timingsensor/adjuster (arrowed) in the controlbox on 2.7 litre engines, but on 2.5 litre

models, this is where you will find the idlemixture adjuster

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16 Slacken the outer cable locknuts, thenwithdraw the outer cable from the supportbracket.17 On automatic transmission models,release the kickdown cable inner cable endfrom the throttle lever.18 Undo the two screws securing thekickdown cable support bracket to the throttlebody and move the bracket and cable to oneside.19 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from thethrottle angle sensor (see illustration).20 Release the coil HT cable from the clip ontop of the air intake trunking.21 Undo the breather pipe support bracketbolt and remove the breather pipe from theside of the intake trunking.22 Slacken the clip and release the trunkingfrom the throttle body.23 Disconnect the vacuum hose from thethrottle diaphragm.24 Undo the two bolts and remove thesupport strap from the top of the throttlebody.25 Release the clip and disconnect the lowerair hose from the underside of the throttlebody.26 Undo the four nuts, move the air intaketrunking aside, and withdraw the throttle bodyfrom the studs of the rubber insulator.27 If required, the rubber insulator can beremoved from the inlet manifold after undoingthe four retaining bolts.

Refitting28 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust theaccelerator cable as described in Section 3,and refill the cooling system (Chapter 1).

Electronic idle control valve

Removal29 Partially drain the cooling system asdescribed in Chapter 1, to below the level ofthe idle control valve.30 Undo the bolts securing the vacuum pipeand crankcase ventilation pipe supportbrackets (see illustration).31 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from theidle control valve (see illustration).

32 Release the clips and disconnect the twocoolant hoses from the idle control valve.33 Undo the two bolts and remove the idlecontrol valve from the inlet manifold. Recoverthe sealing O-ring from the base of the valve.

Refitting34 Refitting is a reversal of removal but use anew O-ring seal. Refill the cooling system(Chapter 1), and adjust the idle speed (Sec-tion 11).

Dashpot diaphragm assembly

Removal35 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the topof the diaphragm (see illustration).36 Undo the two screws securing thediaphragm bracket to the throttle body.37 Disconnect the operating rod from thethrottle lever and remove the diaphragmassembly.

Refitting38 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fast idle valve

Removal39 Partially drain the cooling system asdescribed in Chapter 1, to below the level ofthe fast idle valve.40 Release the clips and disconnect the twocoolant hoses from the fast idle valve (seeillustration).41 Undo the three bolts and remove the

valve from the inlet manifold. Recover the twoO-ring seals.

Refitting42 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butrenew the O-ring seals and refill the coolingsystem, as described in Chapter, 1 oncompletion.

Front fuel rail and injectors

Removal43 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).44 Relieve the fuel system pressure asdescribed in Section 5.45 Disconnect the spark plug HT leads fromthe three rear spark plugs, and identify theleads for correct reconnection.46 Release the HT leads from the supportclips and from the top of the inlet manifoldcover and move the leads clear (seeillustration).47 Undo the bolt securing the fuel pipe clip atthe corner of the inlet manifold cover.48 Release the clips and disconnect thebreather hose from the inlet manifold coverand camshaft cover.49 Open the throttle fully by hand, and slipthe accelerator inner cable end out of the sloton the throttle lever.50 Slacken the outer cable locknuts;withdraw the outer cable from the supportbracket. Release the cable from the clips andmove it clear.

Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines 4D•7

12.31 Disconnect the wiring multiplugfrom the idle control valve

12.30 Undo the bolts securing the vacuumpipe and crankcase ventilation pipe

support brackets

12.19 Throttle angle sensor wiringmultiplug location

12.40 Fast idle valve coolant hose (A) andmounting bolts (B)

12.35 Dashpot diaphragm vacuum hose (A) and retaining screws (B)

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51 Disconnect the cruise control vacuumhose at the T-piece connector, release thehose from the support clips and move it clear.52 Undo the two banjo union bolts securingthe fuel pipes to the front fuel rail. Release thepipes and collect the copper washers. Coverthe open unions after disconnection thenmove the pipes away.53 Undo the bolts securing the two harnessbrackets at the front of the fuel rail and movethe brackets aside.54 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs from thethree fuel injectors (see illustration).55 Undo the two fuel rail retaining nuts andlift the fuel rail off the injectors.56 Withdraw the injectors from their locationsand collect the O-ring and cushion ring at thetop, and the insulator and sealing ring at thebottom from each injector.57 Collect the two spacers from the inletmanifold.

Refitting58 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butrenew the O-rings, cushion rings, insulatorsand sealing rings on each injector, and usenew washers on the fuel pipe banjo unions.

Tighten the banjo union bolts to the specifiedtorque.59 Reconnect and adjust the acceleratorcable as described in Section 3.

Rear fuel rail and injectors

Removal60 Carry out the operations described inparagraphs 43 to 47 above.

61 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the topof the fuel pressure regulator.62 Release the clip and disconnect the fuelreturn hose from the fuel pressure regulator.Plug the hose and regulator union.63 Undo the banjo union bolt securing thefuel pipe to the rear fuel rail. Release the pipeand collect the copper washers. Cover theopen union after disconnection then move thepipe away.64 Undo the bolts securing the two harnessbrackets at the rear of the fuel rail and movethe brackets aside.65 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs from thethree fuel injectors.66 Undo the two fuel rail retaining nuts andlift the fuel rail off the injectors.67 Withdraw the injectors from their locationsand collect the O-ring and cushion ring at thetop, and the insulator and sealing ring at thebottom from each injector.68 Collect the two spacers from the inletmanifold.69 If required the fuel pressure regulator canbe removed from the fuel rail after removingthe two retaining bolts. Collect the O-ring sealbetween regulator and fuel rail.

Refitting70 Refitting is a reversal of removal; renewthe O-rings, cushion rings, insulators andsealing rings on each injector, and use newwashers on the fuel pipe banjo unions.Tighten the banjo union bolts to the specifiedtorque. Renew the regulator O-ring if theregulator was removed.

Fuel pressure regulator

Removal71 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).72 Relieve the fuel system pressure asdescribed in Section 5.73 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the topof the fuel pressure regulator (seeillustration).74 Release the clip and disconnect the fuelreturn hose from the fuel pressure regulator.Plug the hose and pressure regulator union.75 Undo the two bolts and remove the regulator. Collect the O-ring seal betweenregulator and fuel rail.

4D•8 Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines

12.73 Fuel pressure regulator vacuumhose (A) and retaining bolts (B)

12.54 Disconnect the injector wiringmultiplugs

12.46 Fuel rails and injector components and attachments

1 Fuel filter banjo bolt bleedscrew

2 HT lead support clips3 Fuel pipe clip retaining bolt4 Breather hose5 Accelerator cable6 Fuel pipe banjo union bolts7 Fuel pipes8 Banjo union sealing washer

locations

9 Fuel pressure regulatorvacuum hose

10 Fuel return hose11 Fuel pipe banjo union bolt12 Fuel pipe13 Banjo union sealing washer

locations14 Harness bracket retaining

bolts15 Fuel injector multiplugs16 Fuel rail retaining nuts

17 Fuel rail18 Fuel injector19 O-ring20 Cushion ring21 Insulator22 Sealing ring23 Manifold spacers24 Fuel pressure regulator

retaining bolts25 Fuel pressure regulator26 O-ring

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Refitting76 Refitting is a reversal of removal but use anew sealing O-ring.

Electronic control unit

Removal77 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).78 Remove the driver’s seat as described inChapter 11.79 Undo the four bolts securing the ECU tothe floor. Lift off the ECU cover and collect thespacers between the ECU flange and thefloor.80 Disconnect the ECU wiring multiplugs(see illustration).81 Where fitted, undo the two bolts andremove the cooling fan timer module from the ECU base (see illustration). Remove theECU.

Refitting82 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Inertia switch

Removal83 On early models the switch is locatedbehind the centre console inside the car.84 Remove the stud from the centre consoleside cover on the left-hand side, and removethe cover.85 Undo the two screws securing the inertiaswitch to the mounting plate, disconnect thewiring multiplug and remove the switch.86 Check the operation of the switch bystriking the forward-facing side hard againstthe palm of your hand. The setting buttonshould trip out when this is done. If not, renewthe switch.87 On later models, disconnect the wiringmultiplug, undo the two screws and removethe switch from the engine compartmentbulkhead (see illustration).

Refitting88 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Pressthe button down to reset the switch afterinstallation.

Main control box89 In addition to the sensors, valves and

solenoids described previously in this Section,a number of additional units are located in themain control box mounted on the enginecompartment bulkhead. These devices areused by the ECU for control of the fuel,ignition and emissions control systems. Manyof the sensors utilise manifold vacuum fortheir operation and are connected by meansof a series of numbered vacuum hoses andpipes to various locations on, and around, theengine. Three wiring multiplugs connect thesensors electrically to the main harness.90 The layout, and number of sensors fitted,varies considerably according to engine,model year, emission equipment level, andvehicle accessories or options. Each of thesensors can be renewed separately, buttesting, either individually, or as part of theirrespective system, must be entrusted to adealer with dedicated test equipment.

Removal91 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).92 Slacken the two bolts securing the controlbox to the bulkhead.93 Undo the three screws and lift off thecontrol box upper cover (see illustration).94 Note the connections, then release thewiring multiplugs from the mounting bracketson the front of the control box and disconnectthem.95 Remove the control box lower cover fromthe valve plate assembly.96 Check that each of the vacuum hoses and

its corresponding pipe on the pipe block isnumbered. If not, label each hose and pipe.97 Some of the sensors are accessible at thisstage and if they are to be renewedindividually, disconnect the vacuum hose,undo the screws and remove the relevant unit.If the complete control box is being removed,proceed as follows.98 Pull the vacuum hoses off the pipe stubs(see illustration).99 Undo the bolts securing the valve platemounting brackets and remove the assemblyfrom the bulkhead.100 Any sensors not previously accessiblecan now be removed from the valve plate.

Refitting101 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butensure that the labelled vacuum hoses areconnected to the correct pipe stub.

13 Cruise control system -general information

A cruise control system is available asstandard or optional equipment on certain V6 engine models. The system uses electro-mechanical devices to accurately maintain thevehicle road speed without the use of theaccelerator pedal.

The system is controlled by an electroniccontrol unit (ECU) which responds to inputsfrom the master and set/resume switches, the

Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines 4D•9

12.87 Inertia switch location on the enginecompartment bulkhead

12.81 Where fitted, undo the two bolts andremove the cooling fan timer module

12.80 Disconnect the ECU wiringmultiplugs

12.98 Pull the vacuum hoses off the pipestubs

12.93 Undo the three screws and lift offthe control box upper cover

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vehicle speed sensor, the clutch and brakepedal switches and the shift control switch onthe transmission. When the system isengaged, the ECU sends signals to the cruisecontrol actuator which regulates theaccelerator pedal position by means of astepper motor and connecting cable. Oncethe driver has initiated the system, the roadspeed will be constantly monitored andmaintained by the cruise control actuator.

The system can be disengaged at any timeeither by use of the control switches or bydepressing the brake (and where applicablethe clutch) pedals, or moving the automatictransmission gear selector to neutral. TheECU memory stores the previously set roadspeed which can be re-engaged by use of theresume switch.

14 Cruise control systemcomponents - removal and refitting

3Cruise control actuator

Removal1 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from theactuator stepper motor (see illustration).2 Disconnect the vacuum and vent hosesfrom the actuator.3 Slacken the locknuts on the operating cableat the support bracket on the actuator.4 Release the rubber boot and disconnect theinner cable from the actuator rod.5 Undo the two mounting bolts securing theactuator bracket to the body; remove theactuator and bracket from the enginecompartment.6 If necessary, the mounting brackets andsolenoid valves can now be removed from theactuator.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjustthe operating cable as described in thefollowing sub-Section on completion.

Operating cable

Removal8 Slacken the outer cable locknuts at thesupport bracket on the cruise controlactuator.9 Release the rubber boot and disconnect theinner cable from the actuator rod.10 From inside the car, release theturnbuckles and lift out the trim panel over theclutch, brake and accelerator pedals.11 Disconnect the inner cable from theaccelerator pedal.12 Release the cable from the engine

compartment bulkhead, and the support clips,and withdraw the cable from the car.

Refitting and adjustment13 Refit the cable using a reversal of removalthen adjust it as follows.14 First check that the accelerator cable iscorrectly adjusted as described in Section 3.15 Start the engine and allow it to idle.16 Release the rubber boot at the actuatorrod.17 Push the actuator rod in, and measure themovement until the engine speed just beginsto rise.18 Adjust the position of the outer cable, bymeans of the locknuts, so that there is 9.5 to12.5 mm of actuator rod movement before theengine speed increases off idle.19 Tighten the locknuts and refit the rubberboot on completion.

Cruise control switches

Main facia switch20 The procedure for removal and refitting ofthe main switch is described in Chapter 12,Section 4.

Set/resume switch21 Refer to Chapter 10, Section 18 andremove the steering wheel pad or the airbagmodule as applicable.22 Disconnect the switch wiring multiplugand the two Lucar connectors at the steeringwheel.23 On early models, release the switch unitfrom the steering wheel pad. On later models,undo the two switch retaining screws and thesingle mounting bracket-to-steering wheelretaining bolt.24 Remove the mounting bracket andwithdraw the switch from the steering wheel.25 Refit the switch using a reversal ofremoval then refit the steering wheel pad orairbag module as described in Chapter 10.

Clutch and brake switches26 To remove the clutch switch, release theturnbuckles and lift out the trim panel over theclutch, brake and accelerator pedals.27 Disconnect the switch wiring multiplug.28 Slacken the locknut and unscrew theswitch from the pedal bracket.29 Refit the switch by screwing it in until theplunger is fully depressed, then tighten thelocknut.30 Reconnect the multiplug and refit trimpanels.31 The brake switch is combined with thestop-light switch and reference should bemade to Chapter 9, Section 21.

Electronic control unit

Removal32 Release the turnbuckles and lift out thetrim panel over the clutch, brake andaccelerator pedals.33 Disconnect the ECU multiplug, undo theretaining bolt and withdraw the ECU from itslocation on the door pillar bracket.

Refitting34 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

15 Exhaust system - generalinformation and componentrenewal

With the exception of the twin downpipes,the exhaust system is the same as used on 4-cylinder engines. Refer to Part A, Section 13for exhaust system details, and to Part E,Section 3, for information on the catalyticconverter.

4D•10 Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines

14.1 Cruise control actuator attachmentdetails

1 Stepper motor wiring multiplug2 Vent hose3 Vacuum hose4 Outer operating cable locknuts5 Rubber boot6 Inner operating cable7 Actuator bracket mounting bolts8 Actuator9 Actuator to bracket mounting nuts

10 Bracket components11 Bushes and sleeves

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4E

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftOxygen sensor:

4-cylinder engines with sensor in front pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 154-cylinder engines with sensor in manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Air suction valve pipe nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Air suction valve pipe bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9EGR valve nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Chapter 4 Part E: Fuel and exhaust systems –Emissions control systems

Catalytic converter - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . 3General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Emissions control systems - testing and component renewal . . . . . 2Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system check and filter

cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1

4E•1

Specifications

Contents

1 General information

1 To minimise pollution of the atmospherefrom incompletely-burned and evaporatinggases, and to maintain good driveability andfuel economy, a number of emissions controlsystems are used on later vehicles covered bythis manual. They include the following:(a) The engine management system

(comprising both fuel and ignition sub-systems) itself.

(b) Crankcase emissions control.(c) Evaporative emissions control system.(d) Exhaust emissions control (air injection

system, exhaust gas recirculation system,catalytic converter).

2 Before assuming an emission controlsystem is malfunctioning, check the fuel andignition systems carefully (see the earlier Partsof this Chapter, and Chapter 5). The diagnosisof most emission control devices requiresspecialised tools, equipment and training. Ifchecking and servicing become too difficult,or if a procedure is beyond the scope of yourskills, consult your Rover dealer or otherspecialist. Note: The most frequent cause ofemissions problems is simply a loose orbroken electrical connector or vacuum hose,so always check the electrical connectors andvacuum hoses first.

3 Pay close attention to any specialprecautions outlined in this Chapter. It shouldbe noted that the illustrations of the varioussystems may not exactly match the systeminstalled on your vehicle, due to changesmade by the manufacturer during productionor from year-to-year.

Crankcase emissions control4 To reduce the emissions of unburnedhydrocarbons from the crankcase into theatmosphere, a Positive Crankcase Ventilation(PCV) system is used whereby the engine issealed and the blow-by gasses and oil vapourare drawn from inside the crankcase, throughan oil separator, into the inlet tract to beburned by the engine during normalcombustion.5 Under conditions of high manifolddepression (idling, deceleration) the gasseswill be sucked positively out of the crankcase.Under conditions of low manifold depression(acceleration, full-throttle running) the gassesare forced out of the crankcase by the(relatively) higher crankcase pressure; if theengine is worn, the raised crankcase pressure(due to increased blow-by) will cause some ofthe flow to return under all manifoldconditions.

Evaporative emissions control6 To minimise the escape into theatmosphere of unburned hydrocarbons, anevaporative emissions control system is fitted

to models equipped with a catalytic converter.The fuel tank filler cap and vents are sealedand a charcoal canister is mounted in theengine compartment to collect the petrolvapours generated in the tank when the car isparked. It stores them until they can becleared from the canister via the purge valveinto the inlet tract, to be burned by the engineduring normal combustion.7 To ensure that the engine runs correctlywhen it is cold and/or idling, and to protectthe catalytic converter from the effects of anover-rich mixture, the purge valve is notallowed to open until the engine has warmed-up, and is under load; the valve is thenopened to allow the stored vapour to passinto the inlet tract.8 On 4-cylinder engines the vacuum supplyto operate the purge valve is regulated by apurge control valve solenoid which itself isunder the control of the ECU. The solenoid ismounted either separately within the enginecompartment or, on later models, directly ontop of the charcoal canister.9 On V6 engines the vacuum supply to thepurge valve is regulated by the constantvacuum control valve (under ECU control) andby a thermostatic valve which is opened orclosed depending on coolant temperature.

Exhaust emissions control10 To minimise the amount of pollutantswhich escape into the atmosphere, somemodels are fitted with a catalytic converter in

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

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the exhaust system. On all models where acatalytic converter is fitted, the system is ofthe closed-loop type, in which an oxygensensor in the exhaust system provides the fuelinjection/ignition system ECU with constantfeedback on the oxygen content of theexhaust gasses. This enables the ECU toadjust the mixture by altering injector openingtime, to provide the best possible conditionsfor the converter to operate.11 The oxygen sensor has a built-in heatingelement, controlled by the ECU to quicklybring the sensor’s tip to an efficient operatingtemperature. The sensor’s tip is sensitive tooxygen, and sends the ECU a varying voltagedepending on the amount of oxygen in theexhaust gasses; if the intake air/fuel mixture istoo rich, the exhaust gasses are low inoxygen, so the sensor sends a voltage signalproportional to the oxygen detected, thevoltage altering as the mixture weakens andthe amount of oxygen in the exhaust gassesrises. Peak conversion efficiency of all majorpollutants occurs if the intake air/fuel mixtureis maintained at the chemically-correct ratiofor complete combustion of petrol - 14.7 parts(by weight) of air to 1 part of fuel (the“stoichiometric” ratio). The sensor outputvoltage alters in a large step at this point, theECU using the signal change as a referencepoint, and correcting the intake air/fuelmixture accordingly, by altering the fuelinjector opening time.12 To further improve emissionsperformance, later V6 engines are fitted withan air injection system and an exhaust gasrecirculation (EGR) system. The air injectionsystem operates by introducing fresh air fromthe air cleaner into the exhaust manifold underthe control of the fuel/ignition ECU, and an airsuction valve. The EGR system recirculates aproportion of the exhaust gasses through theEGR valve and back into the combustionchambers via the inlet manifold. Operation of

the system is controlled by the fuel/ignitionECU which opens and closes the EGR valveaccording to operating conditions.

2 Emissions control systems -testing and componentrenewal

5Crankcase emissions control1 The checking and testing procedures forthe PCV system are contained in Chapter 1.

Evaporative emissions control

Testing2 If the system is thought to be faulty,disconnect the hoses from the charcoalcanister and purge valve, and check that theyare clear by blowing through them. If thepurge control valve, purge control valvesolenoid or charcoal canister are thought tobe faulty, they must be renewed. Testing ofthe control side of the system should beentrusted to a dealer with the dedicated testequipment necessary to interrogate thesystem quickly and accurately.

Charcoal canister - renewal3 If the purge control valve solenoid islocated on top of the canister, disconnect it’swiring multiplug.4 Release the clips and disconnect the hosesfrom the top of the canister. Note theirlocations for correct refitting, and pull thehoses straight off the pipe stubs, otherwisethe stubs may break off inside the hose (seeillustration).5 Where fitted, release the securing strap andlift the canister from its location. On earlymodels, disconnect the additional hose at thebase of the canister.

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuringthat the hoses are correctly fitted.

Purge control valve solenoid (early 4-cylinder engines) - renewal7 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from thesolenoid (see illustration).8 Release the clip and disconnect thevacuum hose from the solenoid. Pull the hosestraight off the pipe stub otherwise the stubmay break off inside the hose.9 Extract the circlip from the purge hose atthe base of the solenoid and pull off the hose.Recover the O-ring from the pipe stub,ensuring that it doesn’t remain in the hose.10 Slide the solenoid from its bracket andremove it from the car.11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use anew O-ring on the purge hose stub.

Purge control valve solenoid (later 4-cylinder engines) - renewal12 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from thesolenoid.13 Release the clip and disconnect thevacuum hose from the solenoid. Pull the hosestraight off the pipe stub otherwise the stubmay break off inside the hose.14 Compress the retaining tags andwithdraw the solenoid from the charcoalcanister. Recover the O-ring from the base ofthe solenoid.15 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use anew sealing O-ring.

Thermostatic valve (V6 engines) -renewal16 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.17 Refer to Part D, Section 12, and removethe fast idle valve.18 Disconnect the two vacuum hoses at the

4E•2 Fuel and exhaust systems - Emissions control systems

2.7 Purge control valve solenoid attachments on early 4-cylinder engines1 Wiring multiplug2 Vacuum hose

3 Purge hose circlip4 Purge hose

5 O-ring

2.4 Charcoal canister attachments on V6 engines

1 Vacuum hose 3 Canister2 Vapour hoses 4 Air inlet hose

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thermostatic valve and release the upper hosefrom its support clip (see illustration).19 Unscrew the thermostatic valve from thecoolant passage and remove it from theengine.20 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butapply a thread sealant to the valve threadsprior to refitting.

Constant vacuum control valve (V6 engines) - renewal21 The constant vacuum control valve islocated in the control box mounted on theengine compartment bulkhead. Furtherinformation on the control box and itscomponents can be found in Part D, Section 12.

Exhaust emissions controlTesting22 Many of the exhaust emissions controlcomponents are an integral part of the enginemanagement system, and testing can only beaccurately carried out using Rover testequipment. On V6 engines, any system faultswill be stored in the ECU self-diagnosismemory and displayed as a series of flashingfault codes on the LED display. These can bequickly interpreted by a dealer to isolate thelocation of the fault and save time-consumingindividual component testing.23 If a component is known to be faulty, or iffault diagnosis has been carried out by adealer, it can then be renewed as follows.

Oxygen sensor (4-cylinder engines) -renewalNote: The oxygen sensor is delicate, and willnot work if it is dropped or knocked, if itspower supply is disrupted, or if any cleaningmaterials are used on it.24 On models with Lucas multi-point fuelinjection, the sensor is located on top of theexhaust downpipe, under the car.25 Disconnect the sensor wiring harnessmultiplug at the connector in the enginecompartment. Release the harness from theengine compartment cable ties and note theharness routing.26 Jack up the front of the car and securelysupport it on axle stands.27 Release the wiring harness from theunderbody cable ties.

28 Unscrew the sensor from the exhaust pipeand collect the sealing washer.29 Refitting is a reversal of removal using anew sealing washer. Prior to installing thesensor, apply a smear of high temperaturegrease to the sensor threads. Ensure that thesensor is securely tightened and make surethat the wiring is routed correctly with nodanger of it contacting either the exhaustsystem or engine.30 On models with MEMS multi-point fuelinjection, the sensor is located in the exhaustmanifold.31 Release the wiring harness from itssupport bracket on the thermostat housingand disconnect the harness multiplug.32 Unscrew the sensor from the exhaustmanifold and collect the sealing washer.33 Refitting is a reversal of removal using anew sealing washer. Prior to installing thesensor, apply a smear of high temperaturegrease to the sensor threads and ensure thatthe sensor is securely tightened.

Front oxygen sensor (V6 engines) -renewal34 Refer to the note at the beginning ofparagraph 24 before proceeding.35 Refer to Chapter 3, and remove theradiator.36 Undo the three bolts securing the heatshield to the exhaust manifold.37 Disconnect the sensor lead at the wiringconnector and release the lead from thesupport bracket clips (see illustration).

38 Remove the heat shield and unscrew thesensor from the manifold.39 Refitting is a reversal of removal using anew sealing washer. Prior to installing thesensor, apply a smear of high temperaturegrease to the sensor threads and ensure thatthe sensor is securely tightened. Refit theradiator as described in Chapter 3.

Rear oxygen sensor (V6 engines) -renewal40 Refer to the note at the beginning ofparagraph 24 before proceeding.41 Jack up the front of the car and securelysupport it on axle stands.42 From under the car, disconnect thesensor lead at the wiring connector andunscrew the sensor from the manifold (seeillustration).43 Refitting is a reversal of removal using anew sealing washer. Prior to installing thesensor, apply a smear of high temperaturegrease to the sensor threads and ensure thatthe sensor is securely tightened.

Air suction valve (V6 engines) -renewal44 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).45 Release the clip and disconnect the brakeservo vacuum hose from the inlet manifold(see illustration).46 Undo the bolt securing the pipe bracket atthe rear of the air suction valve.47 Disconnect the air suction valve vacuumhose (see illustration).

Fuel and exhaust systems - Emissions control systems 4E•3

2.42 Rear oxygen sensor location in theexhaust manifold

2.37 Release the oxygen sensor lead fromthe support bracket clips (arrowed)

2.47 Disconnect the air suction valvevacuum hose (arrowed)

2.45 Disconnect the brake servo vacuumhose (arrowed) from the inlet manifold

4E

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

2.18 Disconnect the two vacuum hoses atthe thermostatic valve (arrowed)

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48 Undo the two air suction pipe retainingbolts49 Undo the two bolts securing the fuel piperetaining clips adjacent to the air suctionvalve.50 Relieve the fuel system pressure asdescribed in Part D, Section 5.51 Undo the two banjo union bolts securingthe fuel pipes to the front fuel rail. Release thepipes and collect the copper washers. Coverthe open unions after disconnection thenmove the pipes away.52 Undo the vacuum pipe cluster supportbracket bolt and move the pipes slightly foraccess to the air suction valve.53 Undo the three bolts and withdraw the airsuction valve from the manifold. Recover thegasket.54 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Cleanthe mating faces prior to refitting and use anew gasket.

Air suction valve pipe (V6 engines) -renewal55 Remove the throttle body and theelectronic idle control valve as described inPart D, Section 12.56 Undo the two nuts from the suction valvepipe front flange and release the heat shield(see illustration).57 Undo the two bolts at the suction valvepipe rear flange (see illustration).58 Disconnect the lead from the thermaltransmitter and release the lead from its clip.59 Release the air suction pipe flanges andremove the pipe from the engine. Recover thetwo flange gaskets.60 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Cleanthe valve flange and manifold mating facesprior to refitting and use a new gasket.

EGR valve and filter (V6 engines) -renewal61 Remove the air intake trunking and aircleaner assembly as described in Part D,Section 2.

62 Disconnect the EGR valve multiplug andrelease the multiplug from its bracket.63 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the valve.64 Undo the two nuts and remove the EGRvalve from the filter housing (see illustration).Recover the flange gasket.65 Undo the two filter housing retaining boltsand remove the housing from the cylinderhead. Recover the flange gasket and removethe filter from the housing.66 Clean the valve core and body usingcompressed air and a small screwdriver. Takecare not to actuate the valve while holding it.67 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Fit a newfilter during reassembly and use new gasketsat the mating faces.

3 Catalytic converter - generalinformation and precautions

1 The catalytic converter is a reliable andsimple device, which needs no maintenancein itself, but there are some facts of which anowner should be aware if the converter is tofunction properly for its full service life.(a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a vehicle

equipped with a catalytic converter - thelead will coat the precious metals,reducing their converting efficiency, andwill eventually destroy the converter.

(b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systemswell-maintained in accordance with themanufacturer’s schedule (see Chapter 1).

(c) If the engine develops a misfire, do notdrive the vehicle at all (or at least as littleas possible) until the fault is cured.

(d) DO NOT push- or tow-start the vehicle -this will soak the catalytic converter inunburned fuel, causing it to overheatwhen the engine does start.

(e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at highengine speeds, ie do not “blip” thethrottle immediately before switching off.

(f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -these may contain substances harmful tothe catalytic converter.

(g) DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if theengine burns oil to the extent of leaving avisible trail of blue smoke.

(h) Remember that the catalytic converteroperates at very high temperatures. DONOT, therefore, park the vehicle in dryundergrowth, over long grass or piles ofdead leaves, after a long run.

(i) Remember that the catalytic converter isFRAGILE. Do not strike it with toolsduring servicing work.

(j) In some cases, a sulphurous smell (likethat of rotten eggs) may be noticed fromthe exhaust. This is common to manycatalytic converter-equipped vehicles.Once the vehicle has covered a fewthousand miles, the problem shoulddisappear - in the meantime, try changingthe brand of petrol used.

(k) The catalytic converter used on a well-maintained and well-driven vehicle shouldlast for between 50 000 and 100 000 miles. If the converter is nolonger effective, it must be renewed.

2 The catalytic converter is located betweenthe exhaust system front and intermediatesections and is removed and refitted in thesame way as the other sections. Alwaysrenew the converter flange seals when theunit is disturbed in any way, and ensure thatall retaining nuts are securely tightened. Referto the relevant earlier Parts of this Chapter, fordetails of exhaust system removal andrefitting.

4E•4 Fuel and exhaust systems - Emissions control systems

1 Valve retainingnuts

2 EGR valve3 Gasket

4 Filter housing bolts5 Filter housing6 Gasket7 Filter

2.64 EGR valve and filter components

2.57 Undo the two bolts (arrowed) at thesuction valve pipe rear flange

2.56 Undo the two nuts from the suctionvalve pipe front flange and release the heat

shield

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

5

BatteryType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lead-acid, maintenance-freeRating - Cold cranking/Reserve capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480 A/90 RC, 570 A/110 RC, 520 A/120 RC

Ignition coil4-cylinder engines:

Primary resistance at 20ºC (68ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.71 to 0.81 ohmsCurrent consumption - engine idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.75 amps

V6 engines:Primary/secondary resistance at 20ºC (68ºF) - see text:

Between terminals C and D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.35 to 0.42 ohmsBetween terminals B and D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 to 2.3 kohmsBetween terminals A and HT terminal (manual transmission) . . . . . 9.0 to 13.5 kohmsBetween terminals A and HT terminal (automatic transmission) . . 14.0 to 21.6 kohms

Ignition timing2.5 litre engines (at idle speed, vacuum connected)*:

Manual transmission:Unleaded fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9º ± 2ºLeaded fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13º ± 2º

Automatic transmission:Unleaded fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7º ± 2ºLeaded fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11º ± 2º

2.7 litre engines (at idle speed)*:Unleaded fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11º ± 2ºLeaded fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15º ± 2º

* Note: The ignition timing is only adjustable on the non-catalyst equipped V6 engines shown. On all other engines, ignition timing is controlled bythe fuel or ignition ECU and is not adjustable.

Firing order4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at crankshaft pulley end)V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-4-2-5-3-6 (No 1 cylinder at crankshaft pulley end of rear cylinder

head)

Chapter 5Engine electrical systems

Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Alternator brushes and voltage regulator - inspection and renewal . 18Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Charging system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . 15Charging system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Crank/cylinder sensor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Crankshaft sensor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Distributor (V6 engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Distributor cap and rotor arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Electronic control unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

General information, precautions and battery disconnection . . . . . . 1Igniter (V6 engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Ignition coil - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Ignition system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . 3Ignition system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Ignition timing - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Ignition timing sensor/adjuster (V6 engines) - removal and refitting . 9Knock sensor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Spark plug renewal and HT lead check . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Starter motor - brush renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Starting system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . 19Starting system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

5•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

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AlternatorType:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas/Magneti-Marelli A127, A133 or A1271V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nippondenso CGK 46

Brush length (nominal):New . .20.0 mmMinimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm

Starter motorType:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas/Magneti-Marelli M78R or M79V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nippondenso DR 5U1

Minimum brush length (nominal): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft4-cylinder engines:

Ignition coil bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18Knock sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Crankshaft sensor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4Alternator pivot and mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Alternator adjustment bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Starter motor bolts:

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

V6 engines:Alternator side pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Alternator lower mounting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18Starter motor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

5•2 Engine electrical systems

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 General information,precautions and batterydisconnection

General informationThe engine electrical systems include all

ignition, charging and starting components.Because of their engine-related functions,these components are discussed separatelyfrom body electrical devices such as thelights, the instruments, etc (which areincluded in Chapter 12).

PrecautionsAlways observe the following precautions

when working on the electrical system:(a) Be extremely careful when servicing

engine electrical components. They areeasily damaged if checked, connected orhandled improperly.

(b) Never leave the ignition switched on forlong periods of time when the engine isnot running.

(c) Don’t disconnect the battery leads whilethe engine is running.

(d) Maintain correct polarity when connectinga battery lead from another vehicle duringjump starting - see the “Jump starting”section at the front of this manual.

(e) Always disconnect the negative lead first,and reconnect it last, or the battery maybe shorted by the tool being used toloosen the lead clamps.

It’s also a good idea to review the safety-related information regarding the engineelectrical systems located in the “Safety first!”section at the front of this manual, before

beginning any operation included in thisChapter.

Battery disconnectionSeveral systems fitted to many of the cars

covered by this manual require battery powerto be available at all times, either to ensuretheir continued operation or to maintaincontrol unit memories (such as those used tocontrol the seat and mirror positions, theoperation of the electric windows and sunroof, and the retention of the radio/cassetteand CD player security codes). Additionally,on engines with single-point fuel injection, theidle mixture settings stored in the fuel systemECU will also be lost when the battery isdisconnected. Whenever the battery is to bedisconnected therefore, first note thefollowing, to ensure that there are nounforeseen consequences of this action:(a) First, on any vehicle with central locking, it

is a wise precaution to remove the keyfrom the ignition, and to keep it with you,so that it does not get locked in if thecentral locking should engageaccidentally when the battery isreconnected!

(b) If the battery is disconnected while thealarm system is armed or activated, thealarm will remain in the same state whenthe battery is reconnected.

(c) As mentioned above, on cars equippedwith single-point fuel injection, the idlemixture settings stored in the memory ofthe fuel system electronic control unit willbe lost whenever the battery isdisconnected. When the battery isreconnected, the control unit will adopt aset of nominal parameters which will allow

the engine to run, but the mixture settingwill be outside the manufacturer’sspecification. Should the engineperformance be unsatisfactory, thecontrol unit can be calibrated as atemporary measure using the proceduredescribed in Chapter 4, Part A, Sec-tion 11, until such time as, the setting canbe accurately adjusted by a dealer.

(d) Recalibration procedures for the seat andmirror position memory, the electric sunroof and window memories, and the “lazylocking” memories on models soequipped are provided in Chapter 11,Section 1.

(e) If a Rover original equipmentradio/cassette player or CD player isfitted, and the unit and/or the battery isdisconnected, the unit will not functionagain on reconnection until the correctsecurity code is entered. Details of thisprocedure, which varies according to theunit and model year, are given in theRover “In-car entertainment” bookletsupplied with the vehicle when new.Ensure you have the correct code beforeyou disconnect the battery. For obvioussecurity reasons, the procedure is notgiven in this manual. If you do not havethe code or details of the correctprocedure, but can supply proof ofownership and a legitimate reason forwanting this information, the vehicle’sselling dealer may be able to help.

Devices known as “memory-savers” (or“code-savers”) can be used to avoid some ofthe above problems. Precise details varyaccording to the device used. Typically, it isplugged into the cigarette lighter, and is

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connected by its own wires to a spare battery;the vehicle’s own battery is thendisconnected from the electrical system,leaving the “memory-saver” to pass sufficientcurrent to maintain audio unit security codesand ECU memory values, and also to runpermanently-live circuits such as the clock, allthe while isolating the battery in the event of ashort-circuit occurring while work is carriedout. Before using any of these devices, seekthe advice of a Rover dealer as to theirsuitability for use on your car.

Warning: Some of these devicesallow a considerable amount ofcurrent to pass, which can meanthat many of the vehicle’s

systems are still operational when themain battery is disconnected. If a“memory-saver” is used, ensure that thecircuit concerned is actually “dead” beforecarrying out any work on it!

2 Battery - removal and refitting 1

Note: Refer to the previous Section beforeproceeding and also the relevant Sections ofChapter 1.

Removal1 The “sealed for life” battery is located onthe left-hand side of the engine compartment.2 Slacken the negative (-) terminal clamp boltand lift the terminal off the battery post.3 Lift the plastic cover from the positive (+)terminal, slacken the clamp bolt and lift theterminal off the battery post (see illustration).4 Undo the retaining bolt and remove thebattery clamp plate (see illustration).5 Lift the battery from the tray keeping itupright and taking care not to touch anyclothing. Be careful - it’s heavy.6 If required, the battery tray can be removedafter undoing the three retaining bolts.7 Clean the battery terminal posts, clampsand the battery casing. If the battery tray isrusted as a result of battery acid spilling ontoit, clean it thoroughly and re-paint withreference to Chapter 1.8 If you are renewing the battery, make surethat you get one that’s identical, with thesame dimensions, amperage rating, coldcranking rating, etc. Dispose of the old batteryin a responsible fashion. Most local authoritieshave facilities for the collection and disposalof such items - batteries contain sulphuricacid and lead, and should not be simplythrown out with the household rubbish!

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Smear thebattery terminals with a petroleum-based jellyprior to reconnecting. Always connect thepositive terminal clamp first and the negativeterminal clamp last.

3 Ignition system - generalinformation and precautions

General information

4-cylinder enginesAll 4-cylinder engine models covered by

this manual are equipped with a programmedelectronic ignition system, which utilizescomputer technology and electro-magneticcircuitry to simulate the main functions of aconventional ignition distributor.

A reluctor ring on the periphery of theengine flywheel, and a crankshaft sensorwhose inductive head runs between thereluctor ring teeth, replace the operation ofthe contact breaker points in a conventionalsystem. The reluctor ring utilizes 34 teethspaced at 10º intervals, with two spaces, 180ºapart, corresponding to TDC for Nos 1 and 4pistons, and Nos 2 and 3 pistons respectively.As the crankshaft rotates, the reluctor ringteeth pass over the crankshaft sensor, whichtransmits a pulse to the ignition or ignition/fuelelectronic control unit (ECU) every time atooth passes over it. The ECU recognises theabsence of a pulse every 180º, andconsequently establishes the TDC position.Each subsequent pulse then represents 10º ofcrankshaft rotation. This, and the time intervalbetween pulses, allows the ECU to accuratelydetermine crankshaft position and speed.

A small bore pipe connecting the inletmanifold to a pressure transducer within theECU supplies the unit with information onengine load. From this constantly-changingdata, the ECU selects a particular advancefrom a range of ignition characteristics storedin its memory. The basic setting can be furtheradvanced or retarded, according toinformation sent to the ECU from the coolanttemperature sensor, knock sensor and oncertain models, from the throttle pedal switch.

With the firing point established, the ECUtriggers the ignition coil, which delivers HTvoltage to the spark plugs in the conventionalmanner. The cycle is then repeated manytimes a second for each cylinder in turn.

In addition to the above operations, manyof the ignition system components have asecond function in the control and operationof the fuel injection system. Further details willbe found in the appropriate Part of Chapter 4.

V6 enginesOn all V6 engines a breakerless electronic

ignition system is used which comprises thedistributor, an igniter unit and the ignition coil.The distributor is mounted on the left-handend of the front cylinder head and is drivendirectly by the front camshaft. The ignitionsystem forms part of the engine managementpackage controlled by the fuel systemelectronic control unit (ECU).

The distributor contains a reluctor mountedon the distributor shaft, and a stator and pick-up coil mounted on the baseplate. On 2.5 litreengines the ignitor unit is attached to the sideof the distributor body, whereas on 2.7 litreengines it is mounted separately at the rearleft-hand side of the engine compartment.

When the ignition is switched on, but theengine is stationary, the transistors in theigniter unit prevent current flowing through theignition system primary (LT) circuit. As thecrankshaft rotates, the reluctor movesthrough the magnetic field created by thestator. When the reluctor teeth are inalignment with the stator projections, a smallAC voltage is created and sensed by the pick-up coil. The igniter uses this voltage to switchthe transistors in the unit and completes theignition system primary (LT) circuit.

As the reluctor teeth move out of alignmentwith the stator projections, the AC voltagechanges and the transistors in the igniter areswitched again to interrupt the primary (LT)circuit. This causes a high voltage to beinduced in the coil secondary (HT) windingswhich then travels down the HT lead to thedistributor and onto the relevant spark plug.

On 2.5 litre engines ignition advance iscontrolled by both centrifugal and vacuumoperated systems. Centrifugal advance iscontrolled by engine speed whereas vacuumadvance is controlled by the ignition controlsystem. This system uses solenoid valves andsensors to apply vacuum to one of the twodistributor vacuum diaphragms dependant onengine operating parameters. Sensors

Engine electrical systems 5•3

2.4 Removing the battery clamp retainingbolt

2.3 Lift off the plastic cover for access tothe battery positive terminal

5

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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monitor manifold pressure, coolanttemperature, intake air temperature,atmospheric pressure and engine speed andpass signals to the fuel system ECU.According to the signals received, the ECUcontrols the operation of the solenoid valvesto provide the appropriate vacuum necessaryto create the required ignition advance.

On 2.7 litre engines ignition advance iscontrolled entirely by the fuel system ECU. Aswith the 2.5 litre engines, sensors monitorengine parameters and send signals to theECU accordingly. From the informationreceived, the required ignition advance isdetermined by the ECU for all engine operatingconditions. In addition to the sensorsdescribed for 2.5 litre engines, 2.7 litre modelsalso utilise a crank/cylinder sensor, mountedjust behind the front camshaft sprocket, todetect the TDC position for No 1 cylinder andto determine engine speed and piston position.An additional TDC sensor, mounted in thedistributor, is used to provide a fixed ignitiontiming setting during engine cranking and as aback-up unit should the crank/cylinder sensorfail, or produce erroneous signals.

In addition to the above operations, manyof the ignition system components have asecond function in the control and operationof the fuel injection system. Further details willbe found in the appropriate Part of Chapter 4.

PrecautionsWhen working on the ignition system, take

the following precautions:(a) Do not keep the ignition switched on for

more than 10 seconds if the engine willnot start.

(b) If a separate tachometer is ever requiredfor servicing work, consult a dealerservice department before buying atachometer for use with this vehicle -some tachometers may be incompatiblewith these types of ignition systems - andalways connect it in accordance with theequipment manufacturer’s instructions.

(c) Never connect the ignition coil terminalsto earth. This could result in damage tothe coil and/or the ECU or igniter unit.

(d) Do not disconnect the battery when theengine is running.

(e) Refer to the warning at the beginning ofthe next Section concerning HT voltage.

4 Ignition system - testing 2Warning: Voltages produced byan electronic ignition system areconsiderably higher than thoseproduced by conventional ignition

systems. Extreme care must be taken whenworking on the system if the ignition isswitched on. Persons with surgically-implanted cardiac pacemaker devicesshould keep well clear of the ignition circuits,components and test equipment.

General1 The components of the electronic ignitionsystem are normally very reliable; most faultsare far more likely to be due to loose or dirtyconnections, or to “tracking” of HT voltagedue to dirt, dampness or damaged insulation,than to the failure of any of the system’scomponents. Always check all wiringthoroughly before condemning an electricalcomponent, and work methodically toeliminate all other possibilities before decidingthat a particular component is faulty.2 The old practice of checking for a spark byholding the live end of an HT lead a shortdistance away from the engine is notrecommended; not only is there a high risk ofa powerful electric shock, but the HT coil,ECU or igniter unit may be damaged.Similarly, never try to “diagnose” misfires bypulling off one HT lead at a time.

Engine will not start3 If the engine either will not turn over at all,or only turns very slowly, check the batteryand starter motor. Connect a voltmeter acrossthe battery terminals (meter positive probe tobattery positive terminal) then note the voltagereading obtained while turning the engine overon the starter for (no more than) ten seconds.If the reading obtained is less thanapproximately 9.5 volts, first check thebattery, starter motor and charging system asdescribed in the relevant Sections of thisChapter.4 If the engine turns over at normal speed butwill not start, check the HT circuit byconnecting a timing light (following itsmanufacturer’s instructions) and turning theengine over on the starter motor; if the lightflashes, voltage is reaching the spark plugs,so these should be checked first. If the lightdoes not flash, check the HT leadsthemselves, followed by the distributor cap,carbon brush and rotor arm, using theinformation given in Chapter 1.5 If there is a spark, check the fuel system forfaults, referring to the relevant part of Chap-ter 4 for further information.6 If there is still no spark, check the conditionof fuse 15 (early models) or fuse 19 (latermodels) in the passenger compartmentfusebox. If the fuse is sound, check thevoltage at the ignition coil “+” terminal (lightgreen wire on V6 engines and early 4-cylinderengines, brown/pink wire on later 4-cylinderengines); it should be the same as the batteryvoltage (ie, at least 11.7 volts). If the voltage atthe coil is more than 1 volt less than that atthe battery, check the condition of all thecircuit wiring, referring to the wiring diagramsat the end of this manual.7 If the feed to the coil is sound, check thecoil’s primary and secondary windingresistance as described later in Section 7. Iffaulty, a new coil should be fitted. However,check carefully the condition of the LTconnections themselves before doing so, to

ensure that the fault is not due to dirty orpoorly-fastened connectors.8 If the coil is in good condition, the fault isprobably within the crankshaft sensor or thefuel or ignition ECU on 4-cylinder engines, orwithin the pick-up coil, igniter, or fuel ECU onV6 engines. Testing of these componentsshould be entrusted to a Rover dealer.

Engine misfires9 An irregular misfire suggests either a looseconnection or intermittent fault on the primarycircuit, or an HT fault on the coil side of therotor arm.10 With the ignition switched off, checkcarefully through the system, ensuring that allconnections are clean and securely fastened.If the equipment is available, check the LTcircuit as described above.11 Check that the ignition coil, the distributorcap and the HT leads are clean and dry.Check the leads themselves and the sparkplugs (by substitution if necessary), thencheck the distributor cap, carbon brush androtor arm as described in Chapter 1.12 Regular misfiring is almost certainly due toa fault in the distributor cap, HT leads or sparkplugs. Use a timing light (paragraph 4 above)to check whether HT voltage is present at allleads.13 If HT voltage is not present on anyparticular lead, the fault will be in that lead, orin the distributor cap. If HT is present on allleads, the fault will be in the spark plugs;check and renew them if there is any doubtabout their condition.14 If no HT is present, check the ignition coil;its secondary windings may be breakingdown under load.

5 Distributor cap and rotorarm - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Using an open-ended spanner, undo thetwo retaining screws and lift off the distributorcap from the cylinder head or distributor asapplicable (see illustration). On V6 engines,recover the large O-ring seal from the base of

5•4 Engine electrical systems

5.1 Undo the two retaining screws and liftoff the distributor cap

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the cap. Clean and check the cap asdescribed in Chapter 1.2 If the cap is to be renewed, record theposition of the HT leads in relation to the cap,then pull them off. Transfer the leads to a newcap, refitting them in the same position.3 To remove the rotor arm, withdraw theplastic shield (where fitted), then undo theretaining grub screw using an Allen key (seeillustrations). Withdraw the rotor arm from the end of the camshaft or distributorshaft.

Refitting4 Refitting the rotor arm, shield anddistributor cap is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat all traces of thread locking compound areremoved from the rotor arm retaining grubscrew and its threaded hole, then apply freshthread locking compound, such as Loctite 222 or equivalent prior to refitting.Failure to remove all traces of old compoundfirst, may cause seizure of the grub screw,making subsequent removal impossible.

6 Distributor (V6 engines) -removal and refitting 3

2.5 litre engines

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Section 1 before doing this).2 Using an open-ended spanner, undo thetwo retaining screws and lift off the distributorcap. Recover the large O-ring seal from thebase of the cap.3 Release the wiring multiplug and, whereapplicable, the EGR valve vacuum hose fromthe distributor support clips.4 Mark the position of the vacuum hoseconnections at the distributor vacuum unitand disconnect the hoses.5 Disconnect the distributor multiplug fromthe ignition coil and the lead from the radiocondenser then release the wiring from thecable clips.

6 Prise off the plastic cap from the boltsecuring the distributor to the cylinder head.7 Using a small punch or fine file, mark theposition of the distributor base relative to thecylinder head.8 Undo the distributor retaining bolt andwithdraw the unit from the cylinder head.Recover the O-ring at the base of thedistributor body.

Refitting9 With the distributor located on the cylinderhead, turn the rotor arm until the offset drivedog positively engages with the slot in the endof the camshaft, then push the distributorbody fully home. Once in place, align thedistributor body with the mark made onremoval. The remainder of refitting is areversal of removal. After installation, adjustthe ignition timing as described in Section 10.

2.7 litre engines

Removal10 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Section 1 before doing this).11 Using an open-ended spanner, undo thetwo retaining screws and lift off the distributorcap. Recover the large O-ring seal from thebase of the cap.12 Release the wiring multiplug and the EGRvalve vacuum hoses from the distributorsupport clips.13 Disconnect the distributor multiplug fromthe connector on the side of the distributor.

14 Undo the support clip bolt and release theharness from the side of the distributor body(see illustration).15 Undo the distributor retaining bolt andwithdraw the unit from the cylinder head (seeillustrations). Recover the O-ring at the baseof the distributor body.

Refitting16 With the distributor located on thecylinder head, turn the rotor arm until theoffset drive dog positively engages with theslot in the end of the camshaft, then push thedistributor body fully home. The remainder ofrefitting is a reversal of removal.

7 Ignition coil - testing, removal and refitting 2

Testing1 The ignition coil is mounted on the left-handside of the engine compartment, on thesuspension strut tower.2 Testing of the coil is carried out using anohmmeter, or multi-meter set to its resistancefunction, to check the primary and secondarycoil windings for continuity. Ensure that theignition is switched off before carrying out thefollowing checks.3 On 4-cylinder engines disconnect the LTand HT wiring at the coil, and connect anohmmeter across the positive and negative LT

Engine electrical systems 5•5

5.3b . . . then undo the rotor arm grubscrew

5.3a Where fitted, withdraw the plasticshield . . .

6.15b . . . and withdraw the unit from thecylinder head

6.15a Undo the distributor retaining bolt . . .

6.14 Undo the bolt (arrowed) and releasethe wiring harness from the side of the

distributor body

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terminals (see illustration). The primarywinding resistance should be as given in theSpecifications at the beginning of thisChapter. If the resistance is not as specified,the coil should be renewed.4 On V6 engines, disconnect the wiringmultiplug(s) and the distributor HT lead at thecoil and connect an ohmmeter across themultiplug terminals as follows (seeillustration).Between terminals C and D.Between terminals B and D.Between terminal A and the HT terminal.The resistances should be as given in theSpecifications at the beginning of thisChapter. If the resistance is not as specified,the coil should be renewed.5 If the coil is thought to be faulty, have yourfindings confirmed by a Rover dealer beforerenewing the coil.

Removal6 To remove the coil, disconnect the LT leadsor multiplugs at the coil terminals, and the HTlead at the centre terminal.7 Undo the mounting bracket retaining bolt(s)and remove the coil.

8 On 4-cylinder engines, note the position ofthe positive and negative terminals in relationto the mounting bracket, then slacken themounting bracket screw and slide out the coil.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

8 Igniter (V6 engines) - removal and refitting 3

2.5 litre engines

Removal1 Remove the distributor as described inSection 6.2 Undo the two igniter cover securing screwson the side of the distributor body (seeillustration).3 Move the wiring aside and lift off the cover.4 Carefully withdraw the igniter from itsconnection on the side of the distributor.

Refitting5 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of theigniter and distributor and apply a siliconegrease to the distributor mating face.

6 Locate the igniter in position then refit thecover and the wiring clip.7 Refit the distributor as described in Sec-tion 6, then adjust the ignition timing asdescribed in Section 10.

2.7 litre engines

Removal8 The igniter is located on the left-hand sideof the engine compartment, behind thefusebox (see illustration).9 Ensure that the ignition is switched off thendisconnect the igniter wiring multiplug.10 Undo the two retaining screws andwithdraw the igniter from its mountingbracket.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

9 Ignition timingsensor/adjuster (V6 engines)- removal and refitting 3

General1 The ignition timing sensor/adjuster is onlyfitted to 2.7 litre engines and is located in thecontrol box mounted on the enginecompartment bulkhead. On non-catalystequipped engines, the ignition timing adjusteris used to alter the ignition timing to allow theengine to run on leaded or unleaded fuel. Oncatalyst equipped engines the ignition timingis not adjustable and the ignition timingsensor is used in a monitoring capacity by thefuel system ECU.

Removal2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Section 1 before doing this).3 Slacken the two bolts securing the controlbox to the bulkhead.

5•6 Engine electrical systems

8.8 Igniter multiplug (A) and retainingscrews (B) on 2.7 litre engines

8.2 Igniter component details on 2.5 litreengines

1 Retaining screws 3 Igniter2 Igniter cover

7.4 Ignition coil connections and terminal identification on V6 engines

Left-hand illustration - manual transmission Right-hand illustration - automatic transmission

7.3 Ignition coil connections andattachments on 4-cylinder engines

1 LT negative lead2 LT positive lead3 HT lead4 Mounting bracket retaining bolt5 Coil-to-bracket retaining screw

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4 Undo the three screws and lift off thecontrol box upper cover.5 Release the wiring multiplugs from themounting brackets on the front of the controlbox and disconnect them (see illustration).Note their connections for refitting.6 Remove the control box lower cover fromthe valve plate assembly.7 Undo the two screws securing the ignitiontiming adjuster to the valve plate andwithdraw the adjuster from its location.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. On non-catalyst equipped engines, adjust the ignitiontiming as described in Section 10 oncompletion.

10 Ignition timing - adjustment 3General1 The ignition timing is only adjustable onnon-catalyst equipped V6 engines; on allother engines, ignition timing is controlledentirely by the fuel or ignition system ECU.2 All the following adjustments require theuse of a stroboscopic timing light.Additionally, if the adjustment is being carriedout on 2.5 litre engines to allow the use ofunleaded fuel, the timing light will need to beof the adjustable type which allows the unit tobe pre-set to the actual ignition timing value.This is necessary because the timing marksprovided on the crankshaft pulley are onlyapplicable to leaded fuel adjustment.However, by using an adjustable timing light,the TDC mark on the pulley can be usedinstead.

2.5 litre engines

Adjustment for use with leaded fuel3 Remove the access cover under the right-hand wheelarch.4 Using a socket and bar on the crankshaftpulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft pulley, in thenormal direction of rotation, until the timingmarks are visible. Note that the timing marks

are four very small notches on the pulley innerrim and are easily missed. The first notch(usually coloured white) represents Top DeadCentre (TDC) for No 1 piston on compression.The next three notches are the actual timingmarks. The centre notch of the threerepresents 13º BTDC (manual transmission) or11º BTDC (automatic transmission). Theremaining two notches represent a timingtolerance of ± 2º (see illustration).5 Once the marks have been located, it is agood idea to highlight them, and the pointeron the timing belt cover, with a dab of quick-drying white paint to make them easilyrecognisable when using the timing light (seeillustration).6 Start the engine and allow it to warm up tonormal operating temperature. Check that theidling speed is correct and, if necessary,adjust it as described in Chapter 1.7 Switch the engine off and connect thetiming light to No 1 cylinder plug lead asdescribed in the timing light manufacturer’sinstructions. No 1 cylinder is on the rearmostcylinder at the crankshaft pulley end (beneaththe brake master cylinder).8 Start the engine again and allow it to idle.Point the timing light at the timing marks. Thepointer on the timing belt cover should bealigned with the appropriate notch on thecrankshaft pulley.9 If adjustment is required, prise off theplastic cap from the bolt securing thedistributor to the cylinder head, and slackenthe bolt slightly. Rotate the distributor bodyclockwise to advance the timing, or anti-clockwise to retard it, until the pointer andpulley notch are aligned. Tighten thedistributor securing bolt, recheck that themarks are still aligned, then refit the plasticcap.10 Switch off the engine and disconnect thetiming light. Refit the access cover under thewheelarch.

Adjustment for use with unleaded fuel11 As mentioned at the beginning of thisSection, an adjustable timing light will berequired for this operation.

12 Refer to paragraphs 3, 4 and 5 above andhighlight the TDC notch on the pulley and thepointer on the timing belt cover. Note that theother three timing marks are not used in thefollowing procedure and can be ignored.13 Start the engine and allow it to warm up tonormal operating temperature. Check that theidling speed is correct and, if necessary,adjust it as described in Chapter 1.14 Switch the engine off and connect thetiming light to No 1 cylinder plug lead asdescribed in the timing light manufacturer’sinstructions. No 1 cylinder is on the rearmostcylinder at the crankshaft pulley end (beneaththe brake master cylinder).15 Refer to the Specifications at thebeginning of this Chapter for the correctignition timing setting. Set the timing light tothis figure in accordance with the timing lightmanufacturer’s instructions.16 Start the engine again and allow it to idle.Point the timing light at the timing marks. Thepointer on the timing belt cover should bealigned with the TDC notch on the crankshaftpulley.17 If adjustment is required, prise off theplastic cap from the bolt securing thedistributor to the cylinder head and slackenthe bolt slightly. Rotate the distributor bodyclockwise to advance the timing, or anti-clockwise to retard it, until the pointer andpulley notch are aligned. Tighten thedistributor securing bolt, recheck that themarks are still aligned, then refit the plasticcap.18 Switch off the engine and disconnect thetiming light. Refit the access cover under thewheelarch.

2.7 litre engines19 Remove the access cover under the right-hand wheelarch.20 Using a socket and bar on the crankshaftpulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft pulley, in thenormal direction of rotation, until the timingmarks are visible. Note that the timing marksare four very small notches on the pulley innerrim and are easily missed. The first notch(usually coloured white) represents Top DeadCentre (TDC) for No 1 piston on compression.The next three notches are the actual timing

Engine electrical systems 5•7

10.5 Highlight the pointer on the timingcover (arrowed) and the relevant pulley

notch with white paint

10.4 Timing mark identification on thecrankshaft pulley

A TDC notchB Ignition timing setting notchC ± 2º tolerance notches

9.5 Wiring multiplug connections on thefront of the control box

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marks. The centre notch of the three (usuallycoloured red) represents 15º BTDC. Theremaining two notches represent a timingtolerance of ± 2º (see illustration 10.4).21 If the engine is being adjusted to run onunleaded fuel, it will be necessary to make anadditional notch on the pulley (the existingnotches are only applicable when adjustingfor use with leaded fuel). To do this, measurethe distance from notch C to notch B andmake an additional notch E, that distancefrom C (see illustration). Use a small file tomake the new notch.22 Once the marks have been located, it is agood idea to highlight them, and the pointeron the timing belt cover, with a dab of quick-drying white paint to make them easilyrecognisable when using the timing light.23 Start the engine and allow it to warm up tonormal operating temperature. Check that theidling speed is correct and, if necessary,adjust it as described in Chapter 1.

24 Switch the engine off and connect thetiming light to No 1 cylinder plug lead asdescribed in the timing light manufacturer’sinstructions. No 1 cylinder is on the rearmostcylinder at the crankshaft pulley end (beneaththe brake master cylinder).25 Start the engine again and allow it to idle.Point the timing light at the timing marks. Thepointer on the timing belt cover should bealigned with the appropriate notch on thecrankshaft pulley.26 If adjustment is required, slacken the twoscrews securing the control box to the enginecompartment bulkhead. Undo the threescrews and lift off the control box upper cover(see illustration).27 Engage a small screwdriver with theadjustment slot in the ignition timing adjusterand turn the adjuster clockwise to advancethe timing or anti-clockwise to retard it (seeillustration).28 Make a final check of the setting, thenswitch off the engine and disconnect thetiming light. Refit the control box cover andthe access cover under the wheelarch.

11 Electronic control unit -removal and refitting 1

Note: The following procedure is applicable to4-cylinder engines with multi-point fuelinjection which use a separate ECU for theignition system. For all other engines theignition system is controlled by the fuel systemECU and reference should be made to the

procedures contained in the relevant Parts ofChapter 4.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Section 1 before doing this).2 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from theECU (located on the left-hand side of theengine compartment), either behind thebattery or on the bulkhead (see illustration).To do this, press the retaining tab upwards,release the bottom of the multiplug, thendisengage the top lug.3 Disconnect the vacuum supply hose.4 Undo the retaining screw, slide the unit outof its mounting bracket to disengage theretaining lug, and remove the ECU.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

12 Knock sensor - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 The knock sensor (4-cylinder engines only)is located in the centre of the rear-facing sideof the cylinder block, beneath the inletmanifold.2 Jack up the front of the car and support iton stands.3 Disconnect the wiring multiplug, thenunscrew the sensor from its location (seeillustrations).

5•8 Engine electrical systems

12.3a Disconnect the knock sensormultiplug (arrowed) . . .

11.2 Ignition ECU location on the enginecompartment bulkhead

10.27 Turn the ignition timing adjuster toadvance or retard the timing

10.26 Undo the three screws and lift offthe control box upper cover

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10.21 Ignition timing adjustment on 2.7 litre engines

1 Timing light2 Timing cover pointer and TDC notchA Pulley TDC notchB 15º BTDC notchC 13º BTDC notchD 17º BTDC notchE New notch position (11º BTDC) for

unleaded fuel setting

12.3b . . . then unscrew the sensor

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Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensurethat the sensor and cylinder block matingfaces are clean.

13 Crankshaft sensor - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 The crankshaft sensor, fitted to 4-cylinderengines is attached to the transmissionadaptor plate on the rear facing side of theengine.2 Jack up the front of the car and support iton stands.3 Disconnect the multiplug from thecrankshaft sensor wiring socket (seeillustration).4 Undo the retaining screw and remove thewiring socket from its mounting bracket.5 Undo the two bolts securing the crankshaftsensor to the adaptor plate, and withdraw thesensor, complete with spacer and wiringsocket.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensurethat the sensor and cylinder block matingfaces are clean.

14 Crank/cylinder sensor -removal and refitting 4

Removal1 The crank/cylinder sensor is located behindthe timing belt sprocket on the front facingcylinder head of V6 engines.2 Remove the timing belt and the frontcamshaft sprocket as described in Chapter 2,Part B.3 Undo the four bolts and remove the timingbelt backplate from the front cylinder head(see illustration).4 Disconnect the crank/cylinder sensor wiring

multiplug and undo the cable clip retainingbolt. Slip the sensor wiring harness grommetout of the slot in the cylinder head (seeillustration).5 Undo the two bolts and withdraw thesensor from its location.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refer toChapter 2, Part B for timing belt refitting andadjustment procedures.

15 Charging system - generalinformation and precautions

General informationThe charging system includes the

alternator, an internal voltage regulator, a no-charge (or “ignition”) warning light, thebattery, and the wiring between all thecomponents. The charging system supplieselectrical power for the ignition system, thelights, and all the cars accessories. Thealternator is driven by the alternator (auxiliary)drivebelt from the crankshaft pulley.

The purpose of the voltage regulator is tolimit the alternator’s voltage to a preset value.This prevents power surges, circuit overloads,etc., during peak voltage output.

The charging system doesn’t ordinarilyrequire periodic maintenance. However, the

drivebelt, battery and the wires andconnections should be inspected at theintervals outlined in Chapter 1.

The instrument panel warning light shouldcome on when the ignition key is turned topositions “II” or “III”, then should go offimmediately the engine starts. If it remains on, orif it comes on while the engine is running, thereis a malfunction in the charging system (seeSection 16). If the light does not come on whenthe ignition key is turned, and the bulb is sound(see Chapter 12), there is a fault in the alternator.

PrecautionsBe very careful when making electrical

circuit connections to a vehicle equipped withan alternator, and note the following:(a) When reconnecting wires to the alternator

from the battery, be sure to note the polarity.(b) Before using arc-welding equipment to

repair any part of the vehicle, disconnectthe wires from the alternator and thebattery terminals.

(c) Never start the engine with a batterycharger connected.

(d) Always disconnect both battery leadsbefore using a battery charger.

(e) The alternator is driven by an drivebeltwhich could cause serious injury if yourhand, hair or clothes become entangled init with the engine running.

(f) Because the alternator is connecteddirectly to the battery, it could arc orcause a fire if overloaded or shorted-out.

(g) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator, andsecure it with rubber bands, before steam-cleaning or pressure-washing the engine.

(h) Never disconnect the alternator terminalswhile the engine is running.

16 Charging system - testing 21 If a malfunction occurs in the chargingcircuit, don’t automatically assume that thealternator is causing the problem. First checkthe following items:

Engine electrical systems 5•9

13.3 Crankshaft sensor attachments

14.4 Crank/cylinder sensor attachments

A Cable clip retaining boltB Wiring harness grommetC Sensor retaining bolts

14.3 Remove the timing belt backplatefrom the front cylinder head

5

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1 Wiring multiplug2 Wiring socket

retaining screw3 Sensor retaining

bolts4 Crankshaft sensor5 Spacer

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(a) Check the tension and condition of thealternator (auxiliary) drivebelt - renew it if itis worn or deteriorated (see Chapter 1).

(b) Ensure the alternator mounting bolts andnuts are tight.

(c) Inspect the alternator wiring harness andthe electrical connections at thealternator; they must be in goodcondition, and tight.

(d) Check the relevant fuses in the fusebox(see Chapter 12). If any are blown,determine the cause, repair the circuitand renew the fuse (the vehicle won’tstart and/or the accessories won’t work ifthe fuse is blown).

(e) Start the engine and check the alternatorfor abnormal noises - for example, ashrieking or squealing sound may indicatea badly worn bearing or brush.

(f) Make sure that the battery is fully-charged- one bad cell in a battery can causeovercharging by the alternator.

2 Using a voltmeter, check the batteryvoltage with the engine off. It should be inexcess of 12 volts.3 Start the engine and check the batteryvoltage again. Increase engine speed until thevoltmeter reading remains steady; it shouldnow be approximately 13.5 to 14.5 volts.4 Switch on as many electrical accessories (egthe headlights, heated rear window and heaterblower) as possible, and check that thealternator maintains the regulated voltage ataround 13 to 14 volts. The voltage may dropand then come back up; it may also be

necessary to increase engine speed slightly,even if the charging system is working properly.5 If the voltage reading is greater than thestated charging voltage, renew the voltageregulator (see Section 18).6 If the voltmeter reading is less than thatstated, the fault may be due to worn brushes,weak brush springs, a faulty voltage regulator,a faulty diode, a severed phase winding, orworn or damaged slip rings. The brushes andslip rings may be checked (see Section 18),but if the fault persists, the alternator shouldbe renewed or taken to an auto-electrician fortesting and repair.

17 Alternator - removal and refitting 1

4-cylinder engines

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Section 1 before doing this).2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as describedin Chapter 1.3 Undo the two nuts and remove thealternator rear cover.4 Disconnect the electrical leads at the rear ofthe alternator noting their locations forreconnection (see illustration).5 On cars with a rear-mounted powersteering pump, remove the previously-slackened pivot bolt and adjustment arm bolt,

then withdraw the alternator from the engine.6 On cars with a front-mounted powersteering pump, undo the alternator upper andlower mounting bolts, and remove the unit.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refit andadjust the drivebelt (Chapter 1), beforetightening the adjustment and mounting bolts.

V6 engines

Removal8 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Section 1 before doing this).9 Undo the three bolts and one nut securingthe power steering pump and alternator pulleycovers to the top of the engine. Move thepipes and cables clear and lift off the covers.10 Slacken the alternator side pivot bolt andlower mounting nut, then turn the adjustingbolt anti-clockwise to release the tension onthe drivebelt (see illustrations).11 Slip the drivebelt off the alternator pulley.12 Pull back the rubber cap and unscrew themain terminal nut, then remove the washers andlead from the terminal stud (see illustration).13 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from therear of the alternator and release the wiringharness from the support bracket.14 Remove the alternator mounting bolts/nuts and the adjusting bolt then remove theunit.

Refitting15 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjustthe drivebelt as described in Chapter 1,before tightening the mounting bolts/nuts.

18 Alternator brushes andvoltage regulator - inspectionand renewal

31 Remove the alternator as described inSection 17 then proceed as described belowthe relevant sub-heading.

A127 alternator - 4-cylinderengines2 Undo the three small screws securing theregulator and brushbox assembly to the rearof the alternator (see illustration).

5•10 Engine electrical systems

18.2 Undo the regulator and brushboxretaining screws

17.12 Pull back the rubber cap andunscrew the main terminal nut

17.10b . . . and adjusting bolt (arrowed)17.10a V6 engine alternator side pivot bolt(arrowed) . . .

17.4 Typical alternator wiring connections(arrowed) on 4-cylinder engines

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3 Tip the assembly upwards at the edge, andwithdraw it from its location. Disconnect thewiring terminal and remove the regulator andbrushbox from the alternator (see illustrations).4 Measure the brush length and renew thebrushbox and regulator assembly if thebrushes are worn below the figure given in theSpecifications (see illustration).5 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-moistened cloth, then check for signs ofscoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,the slip rings should be attended to by anautomobile electrician.6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

A133 alternator - 4-cylinderengines7 Disconnect the lead then undo the bolt andremove the suppression capacitor from thealternator rear cover.8 Undo the two retaining screws and removethe rear cover from the alternator.9 Disconnect the regulator leads, undo theretaining screws and remove the regulatorfrom the brush box.10 Undo the retaining screws and extract thebrushes from the brush box.11 Undo the retaining screws and withdrawthe brush box from the slip ring end bracket.12 Measure the brush length and renew thebrushes if worn below the figure given in theSpecifications.13 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-moistened cloth, then check for signs ofscoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,the slip rings should be attended to by anautomobile electrician.14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

A1271 alternator - 4-cylinderengines15 The A1271 alternator fitted to later modelsis only serviced as a complete assembly. Noparts are available separately and repairs tothe unit are not possible.

CGK 46 alternator - V6 engines16 Undo the nut, remove the washer and slipoff the insulator from the alternator main feedterminal. Note the position of the insulator slotfor refitting.

17 Undo the three end cover retaining nutsand remove the cover.18 Undo the two brush holder retainingscrews and withdraw the brush holdercomplete with brushes.19 Undo the four regulator retaining screwsand withdraw the regulator from the rectifierassembly. Note the screw lengths and theirlocations for refitting.20 Withdraw the brushes from the brushholder and measure their lengths. Renew thebrushes if worn below the figure given in theSpecifications.21 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-moistened cloth, then check for signs ofscoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,the slip rings should be attended to by anautomobile electrician.22 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

19 Starting system - generalinformation and precautions

General informationThe starting system consists of the battery,

the starter motor, the starter solenoid, and thewires connecting them. The solenoid ismounted directly on the starter motor.

When the ignition key is turned to position“III”, the starter solenoid is actuated throughthe starter control circuit. The solenoid thenconnects the battery to the starter. Thebattery supplies the electrical energy to thestarter motor, which does the actual work ofcranking the engine.

The starter motor on a vehicle equippedwith automatic transmission can be operatedonly when the selector lever is in Park orNeutral (“P” or “N”).

PrecautionsAlways observe the following precautions

when working on the starting system:(a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor

can overheat it, and cause seriousdamage. Never operate the starter motorfor more than 15 seconds at a timewithout pausing to allow it to cool for at

least two minutes. Excessive starteroperation will also risk unburned fuelcollecting in the catalytic converter’selement, causing it to overheat when theengine does start (see Chapter 4, Part E).

(b) Always detach the lead from the negativeterminal of the battery before working onthe starting system (see Section 1).

20 Starting system - testing 21 If the starter motor does not turn at all whenthe switch is operated, make sure that, onautomatic transmission models, the selectorlever is in Park or Neutral (“P” or “N”).2 Make sure that the battery is fully-charged,and that all leads, both at the battery and startersolenoid terminals, are clean and secure.3 Check the condition of the relevant fuseand fusible link, referring to Chapter 12 andthe wiring diagrams at the end of this manualfor further information.4 If the starter motor spins but the engine isnot cranking, the overrunning clutch or (whenapplicable) the reduction gears in the startermotor may be slipping, in which case thestarter motor must be overhauled or renewed.(Other possibilities are that the starter motormounting bolts are very loose, or that teethare missing from the flywheel ring gear.)5 If, when the switch is actuated, the startermotor does not operate at all but the solenoidclicks, then the problem lies with either thebattery, the main solenoid contacts, or thestarter motor itself (or the engine is seized).6 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard toclick when the switch is actuated, the batteryis faulty, there is a fault in the circuit, or thesolenoid itself is defective.7 The solenoid contacts can be checked byconnecting a voltmeter or test light betweenthe battery positive feed connection on thestarter side of the solenoid, and earth. Whenthe ignition switch is turned to the “start”position, there should be a reading or lightedbulb, as applicable. If there is no reading orlighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and shouldbe renewed.

Engine electrical systems 5•11

18.4 Checking alternator brush length18.3b . . . and disconnect the wiring18.3a Withdraw the regulator andbrushbox . . .

5

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8 If the starter motor still does not operate,remove it (see Section 21). The brushes andcommutator may be checked (Section 22), butif the fault persists, the motor should berenewed, or taken to an auto-electrician fortesting and repair.9 If the starter motor cranks the engine at anabnormally-slow speed, first make sure thatthe battery is charged, and that all terminalconnections are tight. If the engine is partiallyseized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, itwill crank slowly.10 If the engine is known to be OK, and withthe correct viscosity oil, but the crankingspeed is still slow, the solenoid contacts areburned, the motor is faulty, or there is a poorinternal connection.

21 Starter motor - removal and refitting 1

4-cylinder enginesNote: On some models, the starter motor ispositioned under the inlet manifold, andaccess is severely limited. No furtherinformation was available at the time of writing.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.(Refer to Section 1 before doing this).

2 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 andremove the air cleaner air intake trunking asnecessary to gain access to the starter motor.3 Disconnect the main feed cable and theLucar spade connector at the solenoid.4 Support the weight of the engine/transmission with a jack, then unscrew andremove the starter motor retaining bolts.Withdraw the starter motor from thetransmission (see illustration).

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tightenthe retaining bolts to the specified torque.

V6 engines

Removal6 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Section 1 before doing this).7 Undo the nut and remove the washer andmain feed cable from the solenoid terminalstud.8 Disconnect the smaller Lucar connectorfrom the other solenoid terminal.9 Apply the handbrake, prise off the left-handfront wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts.Jack up the front of the car and support it onaxle stands. Remove the front roadwheel.10 Undo the three retaining bolts and removethe access panel from under the front wing.11 Unscrew and remove the two starter motorretaining bolts and withdraw the starter motorfrom the transmission (see illustrations).

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

22 Starter motor - brush renewal 3

M78R starter motor - 4-cylinderengines1 Remove the starter motor from the car asdescribed in Section 21.2 Undo the nut and detach the feed wire fromthe solenoid terminal stud.3 Undo the two nuts and two screws thenwithdraw the commutator end bracket fromthe yoke (see illustration).4 Release the rubber grommet from the sideof the yoke and withdraw the brush holderassembly complete with brushes (seeillustration).5 Remove the brush springs from the brushholder.6 Unclip the earth brushes from the brushholder.7 Remove the insulator plate and withdrawthe remaining brushes complete with theirconnector lead.8 Clean and inspect the brush assemblies. Ifthe brushes have worn beyond (or down to)the specified minimum length they must berenewed as a set.

5•12 Engine electrical systems

22.10 Using pointed-nose pliers tocompress the brushes

22.4 Release the rubber grommet(arrowed) and remove the brush holder

22.3 Withdraw the commutator endbracket

21.11b Removing the starter motor on V6 engines

21.11a V6 engine starter motor lowerretaining bolt (arrowed)

21.4 Removing the starter motor on 4-cylinder engines

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9 Prior to refitting the brushes, check thecondition of the commutator face on whichthey run. Wipe the commutator with a solvent-moistened cloth. If the commutator is dirty, itmay be cleaned with fine glass paper, thenwiped with the cloth.10 Fit the new brushes using a reversal of theremoval procedure. When refitting the brushholder assembly, carefully compress thebrushes one at a time using pointed-nosepliers, tip the holder slightly and ease thebrushes over the commutator (seeillustration).

M79 starter motor - 4-cylinder engines11 Undo the two retaining screws andremove the end cap and seal.12 Wipe free the grease from the end of thearmature shaft then prise free and remove theC-clip from the shaft groove. Remove thespacer(s).

13 Unscrew the retaining nut and detach theconnecting link from the solenoid.14 Undo the two retaining screws andwithdraw the solenoid yoke from the drive endhousing. Lift it upwards and disengage thesolenoid armature from the actuation lever inthe end housing.15 Unscrew and remove the two through-bolts then remove the commutator endhousing from the yoke and armature unit.16 Detach the brush housing insulator andwithdraw the brushes from the housing.17 If the brushes have worn down to orbeyond the minimum length specified, theymust be renewed as a set. To renew them, cuttheir leads mid-point and make a securesoldered joint when connecting the newbrushes.18 Prior to refitting the brushes, check thecondition of the commutator face on whichthey run. Wipe the commutator with a solvent-moistened cloth. If the commutator is dirty, itmay be cleaned with fine glass paper, thenwiped with the cloth.

19 Fit the new brushes and reassemble thestarter motor unit using a reversal of theremoval procedure. Make sure that thebrushes move freely in their holders. Whenfitting the armature unit to the yoke, engagethe actuating arm in the drive end housingtogether with the plastic bracket (locates inthe notch in the yoke face) and rubber block.Ensure that the drive end housing is correctlyaligned before fully tightening the retainingscrews.

DR 5U1 starter motor - V6 engines20 Brushes are not separately available forthis starter motor and, should renewal benecessary, a complete brush holder and yokeassembly must be obtained. As this is likely tobe prohibitively expensive, a better alternativemay be to obtain a complete reconditionedstarter motor, or seek the advice of anautomobile electrician.

Engine electrical systems 5•13

5

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

9

GeneralSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diagonally-split, dual-circuit hydraulic with pressure-reducing valve in

rear hydraulic circuit and cable operated handbrake. Anti-lock brakingsystem (ABS) available as standard or optional equipment on latermodels.

Front brakesType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ventilated disc with single-piston sliding calipersDisc diameter:

4-cylinder engine models without turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262.0 mm4-cylinder turbo engine models and V6 engine models . . . . . . . . . . . 285.0 mm

Disc thickness:New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21.0 mmMinimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.0 mm

Maximum thickness variation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mmMaximum disc run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.040 mmBrake pad thickness (including backing but excluding shims):

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.4 mmMinimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2 mm

ABS wheel speed sensor-to-reluctor ring clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 1.02 mm

Rear brakesType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solid disc with single-sliding calipersDisc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260.0 mmDisc thickness:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mmMinimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm

Maximum thickness variation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mmMaximum disc run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.040 mmBrake pad thickness (including backing):

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.5 mmMinimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.2 mm

ABS wheel speed sensor-to-reluctor ring clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.055 to 1.11 mm

Chapter 9 Braking system

Anti-lock braking system - component removal and refitting . . . . . . 25Anti-lock braking system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Brake fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Front brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Front brake caliper - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Front brake caliper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Front brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Handbrake - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Handbrake cable (front) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Handbrake cable (rear) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Handbrake lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Hydraulic pipes and hoses - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . 15Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Master cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Master cylinder (ABS models) - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Master cylinder (non-ABS models) - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Pressure-reducing valve - general information,

removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Rear brake caliper - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Rear brake caliper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Rear brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Rear brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Stop-light switch - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1Vacuum servo unit - general information and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Vacuum servo unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

9•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

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HandbrakeHandbrake linkage lever-to-stop pin clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 2.0 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftCaliper guide pin bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 24Front caliper carrier bracket to steering knuckle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 55Rear caliper carrier bracket to hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Caliper bleed screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Brake hose banjo union bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26Brake pipe union nuts:

M10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11M12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Brake disc retaining screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Handbrake linkage cover to rear caliper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Handbrake lever to floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Handbrake front cable guide plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Handbrake rear cable support clip bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Master cylinder to servo unit nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Servo unit to bulkhead nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Brake pedal pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Pressure reducing valve mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Hydraulic modulator mounting nuts (ABS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Wheel speed sensor to sensor bracket bolt (ABS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Wheel speed sensor bracket bolts (ABS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Wheel speed sensor wiring clips and bracket bolts (ABS) . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Copy valve mounting bracket bolts (ABS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

9•2 Braking system

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 General information

The braking system is of the servo-assisted, dual-circuit hydraulic type,incorporating disc brakes at the front andrear. A diagonally-split dual circuit hydraulicsystem is employed, in which each circuitoperates one front and one diagonallyopposite rear brake from a tandem mastercylinder. Under normal conditions, bothcircuits operate in unison; however, in theevent of hydraulic failure in one circuit, fullbraking force will still be available at twowheels. A pressure-reducing valve isincorporated in the rear brake hydrauliccircuit. This valve regulates the hydraulicpressure applied to each rear brake, andreduces the possibility of the rear wheelslocking under heavy braking.

Self-adjusting single-piston sliding typecalipers are used in conjunction withventilated and solid discs at the front and rearrespectively. A cable-operated handbrakeprovides an independent mechanical meansof rear brake application.

An anti-lock braking system (ABS) isavailable on some models and features manyof the components in common with theconventional braking system. Further detailson the ABS can be found later in this Chapter.Note: When servicing any part of the system,work carefully and methodically; also observescrupulous cleanliness when overhauling anypart of the hydraulic system. Always renew

components (in axle sets, where applicable) ifin any doubt about their condition, and useonly genuine Rover or Unipart replacementparts, or at least those of known good quality.Note the warnings given in “Safety First” at thebeginning of this manual and at relevant pointsin this Chapter concerning the dangers ofasbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.

2 Hydraulic system - bleeding 3Warning: Hydraulic fluid ispoisonous; wash offimmediately and thoroughly inthe case of skin contact, and

seek immediate medical advice if any fluidis swallowed or gets into the eyes. Certaintypes of hydraulic fluid are inflammable,and may ignite when allowed into contactwith hot components; when servicing anyhydraulic system, it is safest to assumethat the fluid IS inflammable, and to takeprecautions against the risk of fire asthough it is petrol that is being handled.Finally, it is hygroscopic (it absorbsmoisture from the air). The more moistureis absorbed by the fluid, the lower itsboiling point becomes, leading to adangerous loss of braking under hard use.Old fluid may be contaminated and unfitfor further use. When topping-up orrenewing the fluid, always use therecommended type, and ensure that itcomes from a freshly-opened sealedcontainer.

General1 The correct functioning of the brakehydraulic system is only possible afterremoving all air from the components andcircuit; this is achieved by bleeding thesystem.2 During the bleeding procedure, add onlyclean, fresh hydraulic fluid of the specifiedtype; never re-use fluid that has already beenbled from the system. Ensure that sufficientfluid is available before starting work.3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluidbeing used in the system, the brake lines andcomponents must be completely flushed withuncontaminated fluid and new seals fitted tothe components.4 If brake fluid has been lost from the mastercylinder due to a leak in the system, ensurethat the cause is traced and rectified beforeproceeding further.5 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch offthe ignition and select first gear (manualtransmission) or Park (automatic transmission)then chock the wheels and release thehandbrake.6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,unions tight, and bleed screws closed.Remove the dust caps and clean any dirt fromaround the bleed screws.

Hydraulic fluid is aneffective paint stripper, andwill attack plastics; if any isspilt, it should be washed off

immediately, using copious quantitiesof clean water.

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7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap,and top up the reservoir to the “MAX” levelline. Do not invert the cap or hydraulic fluidmay short out the cap contacts causing thewarning light on the instrument panel to flash.Refit the cap loosely, and remember tomaintain the fluid level at least above the“MIN” level line throughout the procedure,otherwise there is a risk of further air enteringthe system.8 There are a number of one-man, do-it-yourself, brake bleeding kits currentlyavailable from motor accessory shops. It isrecommended that one of these kits is usedwherever possible, as they greatly simplify thebleeding operation, and also reduce the riskof expelled air and fluid being drawn back intothe system. If such a kit is not available, thebasic (two-man) method must be used, whichis described in detail below.9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle asdescribed previously, and follow the kitmanufacturer’s instructions, as the proceduremay vary slightly according to the type beingused; generally, they are as outlined below inthe relevant sub-section.10 Whichever method is used, the correctsequence must be followed (paragraphs 11 to15) to ensure the removal of all air from thesystem.

Bleeding sequence11 If the hydraulic system has only beenpartially disconnected and suitableprecautions were taken to minimise fluid loss,it should only be necessary to bleed that partof the system (ie the primary or secondarycircuit).12 If the complete system is to be bled, thenit should be done in the following sequence:

Non-ABS models(a) Left-hand front wheel.(b) Right-hand rear wheel.(c) Right-hand front wheel.(d) Left-hand rear wheel.

ABS-models13 Two types of ABS system may be fitted tomodels covered by this manual. Althoughgenerally similar in operation, the bleedingsequence is different for each, and it isnecessary to identify the system beingworked on before proceeding.14 The easiest way to distinguish betweenthe two types is to locate the hydraulicmodulator unit in the engine compartmentand note the arrangement of the hydraulicpipe connections. On the early type modulatorthere are six pipe connections; four on theupper face and two on the front face. On thelater modulator there are also six pipeconnections but all are on the front face of theunit.15 Having identified the unit fitted, thebleeding sequence is as follows:

Early type modulator(a) Left-hand front wheel.(b) Right-hand rear wheel.(c) Right-hand front wheel.(d) Left-hand rear wheel.Later type modulator(a) Left-hand front wheel.(b) Right-hand front wheel.(c) Left-hand rear wheel.(d) Right-hand rear wheel.

Bleeding - basic (two-man)method16 Collect a clean glass jar and a length ofplastic or rubber tubing, which is a tight fitover the bleed screw, and a ring spanner to fitthe screws. The help of an assistant will alsobe required.17 If not already done, remove the dust capfrom the bleed screw of the first wheel to bebled and fit a spanner and tube to the screw.18 Immerse the other end of the bleed tubein the jar, which should contain enough fluidto cover the end of the tube.19 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoirfluid level is maintained at least above the“MIN” level line throughout the procedure.20 Open the bleed screw about half a turn,and have your assistant depress the brakepedal with a smooth steady stroke down tothe floor, and then hold it there. When the flowof fluid through the tube stops, tighten thebleed screw and have your assistant releasethe pedal slowly.21 Repeat this operation (paragraph 20) untilclean brake fluid, free from air bubbles, canbe seen flowing from the end of the tube.22 When no more air bubbles appear, tightenthe bleed screw, remove the bleed tube andrefit the dust cap. Repeat these procedureson the remaining bleed screws in sequenceuntil all air is removed from the system andthe brake pedal feels firm again.

Bleeding - using a one-wayvalve kit23 As their name implies, these kits consistof a length of tubing with a one-way valvefitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid beingdrawn back into the system; some kitsincorporate a translucent container, whichcan be positioned so that the air bubbles canbe more easily seen flowing from the end ofthe tube.24 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,which is then opened. The user returns to thedriver’s seat, depresses the brake pedal witha smooth steady stroke, and slowly releasesit; this is repeated until the expelled fluid isclear of air bubbles.25 Note that these kits simplify work somuch that it is easy to forget the mastercylinder fluid level; ensure that this ismaintained at least above the “MIN” level lineat all times.

Bleeding - using a pressure-bleeding kit26 These kits are usually operated by thereserve of pressurised air contained in thespare tyre. However, note that it will benecessary to reduce the pressure to a lowerlevel than normal; refer to the instructionssupplied with the kit.27 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filledcontainer to the master cylinder reservoir,bleeding is carried out by opening each bleedscrew in turn (in the specified sequence) andallowing fluid to run out, rather like turning ona tap, until no air bubbles can be seen in theexpelled fluid.28 This method has the advantage that thelarge reservoir of fluid provides an additionalsafeguard against air being drawn into thesystem during bleeding.29 Pressure bleeding is particularly effectivewhen bleeding “difficult” systems, or whenbleeding the complete system at the time ofroutine fluid renewal.

All methods30 When bleeding is completed, check andtop up the fluid level in the master cylinderreservoir.31 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If itfeels at all spongy, air must still be present inthe system, and further bleeding is indicated.Failure to bleed satisfactorily after areasonable repetition of the bleedingoperations may be due to worn mastercylinder seals.32 Discard brake fluid which has been bledfrom the system; it will not be fit for re-use.

3 Front brake pads - renewal 2

Warning: Disc brake pads mustbe renewed on both frontwheels at the same time - neverrenew the pads on only one

wheel as uneven braking may result. Dustcreated by wear of the pads may containasbestos, which is a health hazard. Neverblow it out with compressed air and do notinhale any of it. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Usebrake cleaner or methylated spirit only. DONOT allow any brake fluid, oil or grease tocontact the brake pads or disc. Also referto the warning at the start of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.Note: New caliper lower guide pin bolts will berequired for refitting.1 Apply the handbrake, remove the frontwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the front of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the front roadwheels.2 Where fitted, disconnect the pad wearwarning light wiring plug (left-hand caliperonly) and using a spanner, unscrew the lower

Braking system 9•3

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guide pin bolt while holding the guide pin witha second spanner (see illustrations).3 Pivot the caliper body upwards and tie itup, using a length of string, under thewheelarch (see illustration).4 Lift out the two brake pads together withtheir shims then, where fitted, remove theupper and lower anti-rattle shims from thecaliper carrier bracket (see illustrations). Ifthe pads are to be re-used, identify them sothat they can be refitted in their originalpositions.5 Remove the heat shield from the caliperpiston (see illustration).6 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper,piston, disc, and pads, but do not inhale it, asit is injurious to health.7 Rotate the disc by hand, and scrape awayany rust and scale. Carefully inspect the entiresurface of the disc, and if there are any signsof cracks, deep scoring or severe abrasions,the disc must be renewed.8 Inspect the caliper for fluid leaks around thepiston, signs of corrosion, or other damage.Check the guide pin rubber boots forcondition, and the pins themselves for freemovement in the carrier bracket. Renew anysuspect parts as necessary, with reference toSection 5.9 If new pads are to be fitted, it will benecessary to push the caliper piston back intoits bore to accommodate the new, thickerpads. To do this first remove the dust cap,then fit a tube over the end of the bleed

9•4 Braking system

3.5 Remove the heat shield from thecaliper piston

3.4c . . . and lower anti-rattle shim3.4b Remove the upper anti-rattle shim . . .

3.4a Lift out the brake pads together withtheir shims

3.3 Pivot the caliper body upwards

3.2b Unscrew the caliper lower guide pinbolt

3.2a Front brake pad renewal

1 Pad wear warning lightwiring plug (where fitted)

2 Lower guide pin bolt3 Caliper body

4 Brake pads5 Pad shims6 Anti-rattle shim (where

fitted)

7 Piston heat shield8 Bleed screw9 Using a G-clamp to retract

the caliper piston

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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screw. Submerge the free end of the tube in ajar containing a small quantity of brake fluid.10 Open the bleed screw approximately halfa turn, then push the piston back into its bore,as far as it will go, using a G-clamp, or piecesof wood, as levers. When the piston has fullyretracted, close the bleed screw, remove thetube and refit the dust cap.11 To refit the pads, first place the anti-rattleshims (where fitted) in position in the carrierbracket and fit the heat shield to the piston.12 Place the shims against the backs of thepads, then fit the pads to the carrier bracket. Ifworking on the left-hand caliper, the pad withthe warning light lead must be fitted nearestto the centre of the car.13 Swing the caliper down over the pads andsecure it with a new guide pin bolt. Tightenthe bolt to the specified torque.14 Reconnect the warning light wiring plug(where applicable).15 Repeat the above procedure on theopposite front brake caliper.16 Refit the roadwheels and lower the car tothe ground.17 Tighten the roadwheel nuts to thespecified torque and refit the wheel trims.18 Depress the brake pedal several times tobring the pistons into contact with the padsthen check, and if necessary top up, the fluidin the master cylinder reservoir.

4 Front brake caliper - removal and refitting 3

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, andto the warning at the beginning of Section 3concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.Note: New caliper guide pin bolts and brakehose copper washers will be required forrefitting.

Removal1 Apply the handbrake, remove the frontwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the front of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the front roadwheel.

2 If working on the left-hand caliper,disconnect the pad wear warning light wiringplug (where fitted) and release the wiringharness from the support clip.3 Using a brake hose clamp, or self-lockingwrench with protected jaws, clamp the flexiblebrake hose. This will minimise fluid loss duringsubsequent operations.4 Wipe clean the area around the brake hoseconnection at the caliper then unscrew thebrake hose banjo union bolt at the caliperbody, and recover the two copper washers.Tape over the hose union and caliper orifice toprevent dirt ingress.5 Using a spanner, unscrew the lower guidepin bolt while holding the guide pin with asecond spanner.6 Unscrew the upper guide pin bolt in thesame way, then lift away the caliper, leavingthe brake pads and carrier bracket in place.7 If the carrier bracket is to be removed, undothe two bolts securing it to the steeringknuckle, and remove the bracket completewith brake pads (see illustration). The padscan be removed, if required, with reference toSection 3.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat new guide pin bolts are fitted and tightenall fastenings to the specified torque. Use newcopper washers on the brake hose banjounion, and bleed the hydraulic system asdescribed in Section 2.

5 Front brake caliper - overhaul 4

1 Remove the caliper from the car asdescribed in the previous Section.2 With the caliper on the bench wipe away alltraces of dust and dirt, but do not inhale it, asit is injurious to health.

3 Remove the heat shield from the caliperpiston (see illustration).4 Using low air pressure, such as from a tyrefoot pump, eject the piston by holding thepump hose against the caliper fluid inlet port.5 Remove the dust cover from the piston.6 Using a blunt instrument such as a knittingneedle, carefully extract the piston seal fromthe caliper bore.7 Clean all the parts in methylated spirit, orclean brake fluid, and dry with a lint-free cloth.Inspect the piston and caliper bore for signsof damage, scuffing or corrosion, and if theseconditions are evident, renew the caliperassembly complete. Renew the guide pins inthe carrier bracket if they are bent ordamaged, or if their rubber boots are split orperished.8 If the components are in a satisfactorycondition, a repair kit consisting of new sealsand dust cover should be obtained.9 Thoroughly lubricate the caliper bore,piston, piston seal and dust cover with cleanbrake fluid, and carefully fit the seal to thecaliper bore.10 Position the dust cover over the innermostend of the piston, so that the caliper boresealing lip protrudes beyond the base of thepiston. Using a blunt instrument, if necessary,engage the sealing lip of the dust cover withthe groove in the caliper. Now push the pistoninto the caliper bore until the other sealing lipof the dust cover can be engaged with thegroove in the piston. Having done this, pushthe piston fully into its bore. Ease the pistonout again slightly, and make sure that the dustcover lip is correctly seating in the pistongroove.11 Remove the guide pins from the carrierbracket, if not already done, and smear themwith high-melting-point brake grease. Fit newrubber boots to the guide pins if necessary,and refit them to the carrier bracket.12 The caliper can now be refitted asdescribed in the previous Section.

Braking system 9•5

5.3 Front brake caliper components

4.7 Carrier bracket-to-steering knuckleretaining bolts (arrowed)

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Guide pin rubberboot

2 Caliper body3 Guide pin bolt4 Guide pin5 Piston heat shield6 Piston7 Dust cover8 Piston seal9 Bleed screw

10 Clip

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6 Front brake disc - inspection,removal and refitting 2

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 3concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Inspection1 Apply the handbrake, remove the frontwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the front of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the front roadwheel.

2 Undo the two bolts securing the brakecaliper carrier bracket to the steering knuckle.3 Withdraw the carrier bracket, complete withcaliper and brake pads, from the disc andsteering knuckle. Tie the caliper assemblyfrom a convenient place under the wheelarchto avoid straining the brake hose.4 Rotate the disc and examine it for deepscoring or grooving on both sides. Lightscoring is normal, but if excessive the discmust be renewed.5 Using a micrometer, measure the discthickness at four places around the disc atabout 10.0 mm in from the outer edge (seeillustration). Compare the thickness with thefigures given in the Specifications.6 If a dial test indicator is available, check the

disc run-out by mounting the indicator with itsprobe positioned about 6.0 mm in from theouter edge of the disc. Rotate the disc slowly,noting the reading on the indicator. Comparethis with the figures given in the Specifications.7 If the disc thickness, or thickness variation,is outside the figures given in theSpecifications, the disc must be renewed. Ifthe disc run-out is excessive, remove the disc,turn it through 180º, refit it and check the run-out once more. If still excessive, renewal ofthe disc is necessary.

Removal8 Remove the brake caliper and carrierbracket as described in paragraphs 1 to 3.9 Undo the two retaining screws andwithdraw the disc from the hub flange (seeillustrations). If it is tight, tap it lightly frombehind using a hide or plastic mallet.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat the mating face of the disc and hubflange are thoroughly clean, and tighten allretaining bolts to the specified torque.

7 Rear brake pads - renewal 2Warning: Disc brake pads mustbe renewed on both rear wheelsat the same time - never renewthe pads on only one wheel as

uneven braking may result. Dust createdby wear of the pads may contain asbestos,which is a health hazard. Never blow it out

9•6 Braking system

7.2a Rear brake pad renewal1 Pad wear warning light wiring plug (where

fitted)2 Guide pin bolt3 Caliper body

4 Brake pad5 Anti-rattle shim (where fitted)6 Bleed screw7 Piston

6.9b . . . and withdraw the disc from thehub flange

6.9a Undo the two retaining screws(arrowed) . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Micrometer2 Specified disc thickness3 Dial test indicator

6.5 Checking front brake disc thickness and run-out

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with compressed air and do not inhale anyof it. DO NOT use petroleum-basedsolvents to clean brake parts. Use brakecleaner or methylated spirit only. DO NOTallow any brake fluid, oil or grease tocontact the brake pads or disc. Also referto the warning at the start of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.Note: New caliper guide pin bolts will berequired for refitting.1 Chock the front wheels, remove the wheeltrim and slacken the rear wheel nuts. Jack upthe rear of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the rear roadwheels andensure that the handbrake is released.2 On early models, undo the three handbrakelinkage cover securing bolts and remove thecover from the caliper (see illustrations).3 Where fitted, disconnect the pad wearwarning light wiring plug (left-hand caliper).4 Using a spanner, unscrew the upper andlower guide pin bolts (see illustration).5 Withdraw the caliper and handbrake linkageassembly from the brake pads and carrierbracket.6 Lift out the two brake pads, then, wherefitted, remove the upper and lower anti-rattleshims from the caliper carrier bracket (seeillustrations). If the pads are to be re-used,identify them so that they can be refitted intheir original positions.7 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper,piston, disc, and pads, but do not inhale it, asit is injurious to health.

8 Rotate the disc by hand, and scrape awayany rust and scale. Carefully inspect the entiresurface of the disc, and if there are any signsof cracks, deep scoring or severe abrasions,the disc must be renewed.9 Inspect the caliper for fluid leaks around thepiston, signs of corrosion, or other damage.Check the guide pin rubber boots forcondition, and the pins themselves for freemovement in the carrier bracket. Renew anysuspect parts as necessary, with reference toSection 9.10 If new pads are to be fitted, it will benecessary to screw the caliper piston into itsbore to accommodate the new, thicker pads.Remove the dust cap and fit a tube over theend of the bleed screw. Submerge the freeend of the tube in a jar containing a smallquantity of brake fluid.11 Open the bleed screw approximately halfa turn, then screw the piston back fully into itsbore by turning it clockwise with a pair ofangled circlip pliers or other similar tool (seeillustration). If necessary, turn the piston upto 1/4 turn anti-clockwise so that one of the cutouts will align with the projection onthe inboard pad. Now close the bleed screw, remove the tube and refit theprotective cap.12 To refit the pads, first place the anti-rattleshims (where fitted) in position in the carrierbracket.13 Fit the pads to the carrier bracket, notingthat the pad with the warning light lead (left-

hand caliper only) must be fitted nearest tothe centre of the car.14 Place the caliper over the pads, andsecure with new guide pin bolts, tightened tothe specified torque.15 Refit the warning light wiring plug (whereapplicable) and the handbrake linkage cover.16 Depress the brake pedal several times toautomatically adjust the brake pads and thehandbrake linkage. Do not apply thehandbrake until the rear pads have self-adjusted otherwise incorrect brake operationwill result.17 Repeat the above procedure on theopposite rear brake unit.18 Check, and if necessary top up, the fluidin the master cylinder reservoir then refit theroadwheels and lower the car to the ground.Tighten the roadwheel nuts to the specifiedtorque and refit the wheel trim.

8 Rear brake caliper - removal and refitting 3

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, andto the warning at the beginning of Section 7concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.Note: New caliper guide pin bolts and brakehose copper washers will be required forrefitting.

Braking system 9•7

7.6a Lift out the two brake pads . . .7.4 Rear caliper upper and lower guide pinbolt locations (arrowed)

7.2b Undo the three handbrake linkagecover retaining bolts (arrowed)

7.11 Using angled circlip pliers to screwthe piston back into the caliper. Note the

position of the cut-outs

7.6c . . . and lower anti-rattle shim7.6b . . . followed by the upper anti-rattleshim . . .

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Removal1 Chock the front wheels, remove the wheeltrim and slacken the rear wheel nuts. Jack upthe rear of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the rear roadwheel andensure that the handbrake is released.2 Undo the three bolts securing thehandbrake linkage cover, and remove thecover from the side of the caliper.3 On the left-hand caliper, disconnect thepad wear warning light wiring plug (wherefitted) and release the wiring from the supportclip.4 Undo the two bolts and remove the fronthalf of the handbrake linkage cover.5 Extract the retaining clip and withdraw theclevis pin from the end of the handbrake cable(see illustration).6 Prise off the handbrake cable retaining clipand withdraw the cable from the mountingbracket.7 To minimise fluid loss, clamp the flexiblehose using a brake hose clamp, or self-locking wrench with protected jaws.8 Wipe clean the area around the brake hoseconnection at the caliper then unscrew thebrake hose banjo union bolt at the caliperbody, and recover the two copper washers.Tape over the hose union and caliper orifice toprevent dirt ingress.9 Using a spanner, unscrew the upper andlower guide pin bolts.10 Withdraw the caliper and handbrakelinkage assembly from the brake pads andcarrier bracket, and remove it from the car.11 If the carrier bracket is to be removed,undo the two bolts securing it to the hubcarrier, and remove the bracket complete withbrake pads. The pads can be removed, ifrequired, with reference to Section 7.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, buttighten all bolts to the specified torque. Usenew copper washers on the brake hose banjounion, and bleed the hydraulic system asdescribed in Section 2. Do not apply thehandbrake until the rear brakes have beenbled otherwise incorrect brake operation willresult.

9 Rear brake caliper - overhaul 4

1 Remove the caliper from the car asdescribed in the previous Section.2 With the caliper on the bench wipe away alltraces of dust and dirt, but do not inhale it, asit is injurious to health.3 Undo the two bolts and remove thehandbrake linkage bracket assembly from thecaliper.4 Using a pair of angled circlip pliers or othersimilar tool, turn the piston anti-clockwise tounscrew it from the caliper.5 Remove the dust cover from the piston(see illustration).6 Using a blunt instrument such as a knittingneedle, carefully extract the piston seal fromthe caliper bore.7 Clean all the parts in methylated spirit, orclean brake fluid, and dry with a lint-free cloth.Inspect the piston and caliper bore for signsof damage, scuffing or corrosion, and if theseconditions are evident, renew the caliperassembly complete. Renew the guide pins inthe carrier bracket if they are bent ordamaged, or if their rubber boots are split orperished.8 If the components are in a satisfactorycondition, a repair kit consisting of new sealsand dust cover should be obtained.9 Thoroughly lubricate the caliper bore,piston, piston seal and dust cover with cleanbrake fluid, and carefully fit the seal to thecaliper bore.10 Position the dust cover over the innermostend of the piston, so that the caliper boresealing lip protrudes beyond the base of thepiston. Using a blunt instrument, if necessary,engage the sealing lip of the dust cover withthe groove in the caliper. Screw the pistoninto the caliper bore until the other sealing lipof the dust cover can be engaged with thegroove in the piston. With the piston screwedin all the way, make sure that the dust cover is

correctly located in the piston and calipergrooves.11 Remove the guide pins from the carrierbracket, if not already done, and smear themwith high-melting-point brake grease. Fit newrubber boots to the guide pins and refit themto the carrier bracket. Ensure that the guidepin with the rubber insert is fitted in therearmost position.12 Attach the handbrake linkage bracketassembly to the caliper and secure with thetwo bolts.13 The caliper can now be refitted to the caras described in the previous Section.

10 Rear brake disc - inspection,removal and refitting 2

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 7concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Inspection1 Chock the front wheels, remove the wheeltrim and slacken the rear wheel nuts. Jack upthe rear of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the rear roadwheel andensure that the handbrake is released.2 Undo the two bolts securing the brakecaliper carrier bracket to the rear hub carrier(see illustration).

9•8 Braking system

10.2 Carrier bracket-to-rear hub carrierretaining bolts (arrowed)

9.5 Rear brake caliper components

8.5 Handbrake cable clevis pin (A) andcable retaining clip (B)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Piston2 Dust cover3 Piston seal4 Bleed screw5 Guide pin rubber boot6 Guide pin

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3 Undo the retaining bolt and release theflexible brake hose support clip from thesuspension strut (see illustration).4 Withdraw the carrier bracket, complete withcaliper and brake pads, from the disc and hubcarrier. Tie the caliper assembly from aconvenient place under the wheelarch toavoid straining the brake hose (seeillustration).5 The inspection procedures are the same asfor the front brake disc, and reference shouldbe made to Section 6, paragraphs 4 to 7inclusive.

Removal6 Remove the brake caliper and carrierbracket as described in paragraphs 1 to 4.7 Undo the two retaining screws andwithdraw the disc from the hub flange (seeillustrations). If it is tight, tap it lightly frombehind using a hide or plastic mallet.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat the mating face of the disc and hubflange are thoroughly clean, and tighten allretaining bolts to the specified torque.

11 Master cylinder - removal and refitting 3

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal1 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from thefluid level warning indicator in the reservoirfiller cap, then remove the filler cap from thereservoir. Note that the filler cap must not beinverted. The reservoir should now beemptied by syphoning or drawing out the fluidwith a pipette.2 Place rags beneath the master cylinder toabsorb any remaining brake fluid when thepipe unions are undone. If any brake fluid isspilled on the car paintwork, wash it offimmediately with copious amounts of coldwater.

3 On manual transmission models, detachthe clutch fluid supply hose from the side ofthe reservoir.4 Unscrew the two brake pipe union nuts,and carefully withdraw the pipes from themaster cylinder (see illustration). Tape overthe pipe ends to prevent dirt ingress.5 Undo the two nuts, remove the washers,and withdraw the master cylinder from theservo unit. Recover the O-ring seal betweenmaster cylinder and servo.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renew themaster cylinder-to-servo O-ring seal, andtighten all retaining nuts to the specifiedtorque. Bleed the brakes as described inSection 2. On manual transmission models,bleed the clutch hydraulic system asdescribed in Chapter 6.

12 Master cylinder (non-ABSmodels) - overhaul 4

Note: Two different types of master cylinderhave been fitted to non-ABS equipped Rovermodels covered by this manual (seeillustrations). The following procedures aremainly applicable to the early unit fitted untilapproximately October 1991. The later unit issimilar, but at the time of writing no specific

overhaul information was available from themanufacturer.1 Remove the master cylinder from the car asdescribed in the previous Section. Drain anyfluid remaining in the reservoir, and prepare aclean, uncluttered working surface ready fordismantling.2 Hold the cylinder body firmly, and push thereservoir sideways to release it from its seals.Lift the reservoir off, and remove the two sealsfrom the fluid inlet ports.3 Push the primary piston down the cylinderbore slightly, and hold it there. Locate thestop-pin in the secondary inlet port, andwithdraw the pin using pointed-nose pliers.4 With the piston held down, extract thecirclip, using circlip pliers, from the cylinderbore end, and remove the washer behind thecirclip.5 Using a small blunt screwdriver, hook outthe O-ring seal from the groove in the cylinderbore.6 Remove the primary piston.7 Lubricate the cylinder bore with cleanhydraulic fluid to aid removal of the secondarypiston.8 Tap the cylinder body on a block of woodto release the secondary piston, thenwithdraw the piston from the cylinder bore.9 Remove the secondary piston spring, sealretainer, rear seal, washer and front seal.10 Remove the seal housing, seal andwasher from the primary piston. Do notdismantle the primary piston further, as seals

Braking system 9•9

10.7a Undo the two retaining screws . . .10.4 Tie up the caliper assembly to avoidstraining the brake hose

10.3 Release the rear flexible brake hosesupport clip from the suspension strut

11.4 Unscrew the two brake pipe unions(arrowed) at the master cylinder

10.7b . . . and withdraw the rear disc fromthe hub flange

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9•10 Braking system

12.0a Exploded view of the early type master cylinder - non-ABS models

1 Reservoir2 Stop-pin3 Reservoir seals4 Cylinder body5 Piston retaining circlip6 Washer7 O-ring seal8 Primary piston seal housing9 Primary piston seal

10 Primary piston washer11 Primary piston assembly12 Secondary piston front seal13 Secondary piston14 Secondary piston washer15 Secondary piston rear seal16 Secondary piston seal retainer17 Secondary piston spring18 O-ring

12.0b Exploded view of the later type master cylinder - non-ABS models

1 Reservoir filler cap2 Reservoir3 Reservoir secondary

circuit seal4 Reservoir primary circuit

seal5 Cylinder body6 Secondary piston spring7 Secondary piston seal

retainer

8 Secondary piston rearseal

9 Secondary piston10 Secondary piston front

seal11 Primary piston assembly12 O-ring seal13 Vacuum seal packing ring14 Vacuum seal15 Transfer housing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Reservoir2 Stop-pin3 Reservoir seals4 Cylinder body5 Piston retaining circlip6 Washer7 O-ring seal8 Primary piston seal housing

9 Primary piston seal10 Primary piston washer11 Primary piston

assembly12 Secondary piston assembly13 Secondary piston spring14 O-ring

13.0a Exploded view of the early type mastercylinder - ABS models

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are not available separately. If the mastercylinder is in a serviceable condition, and is tobe re-used, a new primary piston assembly isincluded in the repair kit.11 With the master cylinder dismantled,clean all the components in methylated spirit,or clean hydraulic fluid, and dry with a lint-freecloth.12 Carefully examine the cylinder bore andsecondary piston for signs of wear, scoring orcorrosion, and if evident, renew the completemaster cylinder assembly.13 If the components are in a satisfactorycondition, obtain a repair kit consisting of newseals, springs and primary piston assembly.14 Lubricate the cylinder bore, pistons andseals thoroughly in clean hydraulic fluid, andassemble them wet.15 Using your fingers only, fit the front seal tothe secondary piston, followed by the washer,rear seal, seal retainer and spring.16 Fit the washer, seal housing and seal tothe primary piston.17 Insert the secondary piston into thecylinder bore, using a circular rocking motionto avoid turning over the lips of the seals.18 Fit the primary piston in the same way.19 Fit a new O-ring seal to the groove in thecylinder bore, then refit the washer and circlip.20 Push the primary piston down the bore,and refit the stop-pin to the secondary inletport.21 Fit two new seals to the reservoir fluidinlet ports, then push the reservoir firmly intoplace.22 Fit a new seal to the reservoir filler cap,then refit the master cylinder to the car asdescribed in Section 11.

13 Master cylinder (ABSmodels) - overhaul 4

Note: Two different types of master cylinderhave been fitted to ABS equipped Rovermodels covered by this manual (seeillustrations). The following procedures aremainly applicable to the early unit fitted untilapproximately October 1991. The later unit issimilar, but at the time of writing no specificoverhaul information was available from themanufacturer.1 Remove the master cylinder from the car asdescribed in Section 11. Drain any fluidremaining in the reservoir, and prepare aclean, uncluttered working surface ready fordismantling.2 Hold the cylinder body firmly, and push thereservoir sideways to release it from its seals.Lift the reservoir off, and remove the two sealsfrom the fluid inlet ports.3 Push the primary piston down the cylinderbore slightly, and hold it there. Locate thestop-pin in the secondary inlet port, andwithdraw the pin using pointed-nose pliers.4 With the piston held down, extract thecirclip, using circlip pliers, from the cylinderbore end, and remove the washer behind thecirclip.5 Using a small blunt screwdriver, hook outthe O-ring seal from the groove in the cylinderbore.6 Remove the primary piston.7 Lubricate the cylinder bore with cleanhydraulic fluid to aid removal of the secondarypiston.

Braking system 9•11

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

13.0b Exploded view of the later type master cylinder - ABS models

1 Reservoir filler cap2 Reservoir3 Stop-pin4 Reservoir secondary

circuit seal5 Reservoir primary

circuit seal6 Cylinder body7 Stop-pin retaining

screw8 Secondary piston

spring9 Secondary piston

assembly10 Primary piston spring11 Primary piston

assembly12 O-ring seal13 Spacing washer14 Circlip15 Vacuum seal packing

ring16 Vacuum seal17 Transfer housing

8 Tap the cylinder body on a block of woodto release the secondary piston, thenwithdraw the piston from the cylinder bore.9 Remove the seal housing, seal and washerfrom the primary piston. Do not dismantleeither of the pistons further as seals are notavailable separately. If the master cylinder isin a serviceable condition, and is to be re-used, a repair kit including new primary andsecondary piston assemblies will be required.10 With the master cylinder dismantled,clean all the components in methylated spirit,or clean hydraulic fluid, and dry with a lint-freecloth.11 Carefully examine the cylinder bore forsigns of wear, scoring or corrosion, and ifevident, renew the complete master cylinderassembly.12 If the components are in a satisfactorycondition, obtain a repair kit and two newpiston assemblies.13 Lubricate the cylinder bore, pistons andseals thoroughly in clean hydraulic fluid, andassemble them wet.14 Fit the washer, seal housing and seal tothe primary piston.15 Insert the secondary piston into thecylinder bore, using a circular rocking motionto avoid turning over the lips of the seals.Align the slot in the piston with the stop-pin hole in the cylinder secondary inletport.16 Fit the primary piston in the same way.17 Fit a new O-ring seal to the groove in thecylinder bore, then refit the washer and circlip.18 Push the primary piston down the bore,and refit the stop-pin to the secondary inletport.19 Fit two new seals to the reservoir fluidinlet ports, then push the reservoir firmly intoplace.20 Fit a new seal to the reservoir filler cap,then refit the master cylinder to the car asdescribed in Section 11.

14 Pressure-reducing valve -general information, removaland refitting

3Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

General information1 The pressure-reducing valve is mounted onthe left-hand side of the engine compartmentbehind the battery.2 The purposes of the valve is to distributebrake fluid to the front and rear brakes (rearbrakes only on cars fitted with ABS), and tolimit the fluid pressure supplied to the rearbrakes under heavy braking.3 The operation of the valve may be suspectif one or both rear wheels continually lockunder heavy braking. It is essential, however,

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before condemning the valve to ensure thatthe brake assemblies themselves, or adverseroad conditions, are not causing thiscondition. In the event of a valve internalfailure, brake fluid will be seen seeping fromthe vent plug on the front of the valve which iscovered by a plastic strap. Repair or overhaulof the valve is not possible, and the unit mustbe renewed as a complete assembly if faulty.

Removal4 Remove the master cylinder reservoir fillercap, place a piece of polythene over the fillerneck, and seal it tightly with an elastic band.This will minimise hydraulic fluid loss duringsubsequent operations.5 Place rags beneath the valve to collect anyhydraulic fluid that may escape when the pipeunions are undone. If any hydraulic fluid isspilled on the car paintwork, wash it offimmediately with copious amounts of coldwater.6 Identify the locations of each of the brakepipe unions, unscrew the union nuts andcarefully withdraw the pipes clear of the valve(see illustration). Tape over the pipe endsand valve orifices to prevent dirt ingress.7 Undo the two bolts securing the valvemounting bracket to the inner wing, andremove the valve assembly.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleed thehydraulic system as described in Section 2 oncompletion.

15 Hydraulic pipes and hoses -inspection, removal andrefitting

3Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Inspection1 Jack up the front, then the rear of the car inturn, and securely support it on axle stands sothat the pipes and hoses under thewheelarches and on the suspensionassemblies can be inspected.2 First check for signs of leakage at the pipeunions. Examine the flexible hoses for signs ofcracking, chafing or deterioration of therubber.3 The brake pipes must be examinedcarefully and methodically. They must becleaned off and checked for signs of dents,corrosion or other damage. Corrosion shouldbe scraped off and, if the depth of pitting issignificant, the pipes renewed. The pipes arehowever protected by a plastic sleeve, andany corrosion that does occur is likely to benear the pipe unions where the sleeveprotection ends.4 Renew any defective brake pipes and/orhoses.

Removal5 If any section of pipe or hose is to beremoved, first unscrew the master cylinderreservoir filler cap and place a piece ofpolythene over the filler neck. Secure thepolythene with an elastic band, ensuring thatan airtight seal is obtained. This will minimisehydraulic fluid loss when the pipe or hose isremoved.6 As the front-to-rear brake pipes run insidethe car, it will be necessary to determine theroute of the pipe, then remove any interior trimpanels as necessary for access (see Chapter11). Once this is done, the union nuts at eachend can be unscrewed, the pipe and unionpulled out, and the pipe removed from the caror underbody clips as applicable. Where theunion nuts are exposed, unprotected from thefull force of the weather, they can sometimes

be quite tight. As only an open-ended spannercan be used, burring of the flats on the nuts isnot uncommon when attempting to undothem. For this reason, a self-locking wrench isoften the only way to separate a stubbornunion.7 To remove a flexible hose, wipe the unionsand brackets free of dirt and undo the unionnut at the brake pipe end.8 Next extract the hose retaining clip, and liftthe end of the hose out of its bracket (seeillustration).9 If a front hose is being removed, undo thetwo bolts securing the hose support bracketto the steering knuckle (see illustration). Atthe rear, a single bolt secures the supportbracket to the shock absorber strut.10 Undo the banjo bolt securing the hose tothe brake caliper, recover the two copperwashers, one on each side of the union, andremove the hose (see illustration). Use newcopper washers when refitting.11 Brake pipes can be obtained individually,or in sets, from Rover dealers or largeraccessory shops, cut to length and with theend flares and union nuts in place. The pipe isthen bent to shape, using the old pipe as aguide, and is ready for fitting to the car.

Refitting12 Refitting the pipes and hoses is a reversalof removal. Make sure that the hoses are notkinked when in position, and will not chafeany suspension or steering component withsuspension movement. Ensure also that thebrake pipes are securely supported in theirclips. After refitting, remove the polythenefrom the reservoir and bleed the hydraulicsystem as described in Section 2.

16 Brake pedal - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 From inside the car, release the turnbucklesand lift out the trim panel over the clutch,brake and accelerator pedals.

9•12 Braking system

15.10 Front brake hose-to-caliper banjounion bolt (arrowed)

15.9 Front brake hose support bracket onthe steering knuckle

15.8 Flexible brake hose rigid pipe unionnut (A) and hose retaining clip (B)

14.6 Pressure-reducing valve mountingsand pipe attachments

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2 Disconnect the return spring from the brakepedal and pedal bracket (see illustration).3 Extract the retaining spring clip andwithdraw the clevis pin securing the brakeservo pushrod to the pedal.4 Undo the nut, remove the washer andwithdraw the brake pedal pivot bolt from thepedal bracket. Remove the pedal from thecar.5 Prise out the two pedal bushes andwithdraw the spacer tube.6 Check the condition of the components,and renew as necessary.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

17 Handbrake - adjustment 21 Due to the self-adjusting action of the rearbrakes, adjustment of the handbrake shouldnormally only be necessary after removal andrefitting of any of the handbrake components.

2 To check the adjustment, chock the frontwheels, remove the rear wheel trim andslacken the roadwheel nuts. Jack up the rearof the car and support it on axle stands.Remove both rear roadwheels and release thehandbrake.3 On early models, undo the three bolts eachside securing the handbrake linkage covers tothe rear brake calipers, and remove thecovers.4 Check the clearance between thehandbrake linkage lever and the stop-pin onboth calipers (see illustration). If theclearance on either side is outside thetolerance given in the Specifications, adjustthe handbrake using the following procedure.If the clearance is satisfactory, proceed toparagraph 9.5 On later models it will be necessary toremove the centre console, as described inChapter 11, for access to the handbrakeadjuster. On early models it is only necessaryto remove the handbrake lever trim cover asfollows. From inside the car, carefully priseout the coin holders or switch panels on eachside of the centre console, then raise the lidon the cassette holder at the rear of theconsole.6 Using a screwdriver as a lever, carefullyprise up the rear of the handbrake lever trimcover, and remove the cover from the lever(see illustrations).7 Turn the handbrake adjuster on the side ofthe handbrake lever to increase or decreasethe previously-measured clearance, as

Braking system 9•13

17.6a Prise up the rear of the handbrakelever trim cover . . .

17.6b . . . and remove the cover from thelever17.4 Handbrake adjustment details

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Handbrake linkage cover retainingbolts

2 Handbrake linkage cover3 Handbrake linkage lever-to-stop-pin

clearance measuring point4 Using a lever to prise up the

handbrake lever trim cover (where applicable)

5 Handbrake lever trim cover6 Handbrake adjuster7 Handbrake lever

16.2 Brake pedal mounting details

1 Return spring2 Clevis pin spring clip3 Clevis pin

4 Pedal pivot bolt5 Brake pedal6 Spacer tube

7 Pedal bushes8 Pedal pad9 Stop-light switch

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necessary (see illustration). Turning theadjuster clockwise will decrease theclearance, and turning it anti-clockwise willincrease it.8 Operate the handbrake two or three times,and recheck the clearance once more. Make afinal adjustment if required, then refit the trimcover to the lever, or refit the centre console,as applicable.9 Refit the linkage covers to the brakecalipers, refit the roadwheels and lower thecar to the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts andrefit the wheel trim.

18 Handbrake lever - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the centreconsole.2 Chock the front wheels, remove the rearwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the rear of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the rear roadwheels andrelease the handbrake.3 From inside the car, unscrew thehandbrake adjuster on the side of the lever,and remove the adjuster and spacing washerfrom the front cable (see illustration).4 Detach the front cable from the handbrakelever.

5 Disconnect the wiring plug from thewarning light switch on the other side of thelever (see illustration).6 Undo the four bolts securing the leverassembly to the floor (see illustration).7 Lift up the lever assembly, release the cableand gaiter, and recover the lever-to-floorgasket. Remove the lever assembly from thecar.8 If required, the warning light switch can beremoved after undoing the two screws.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust thehandbrake as described in Section 17 beforelowering the car to the ground.

19 Handbrake cable (front) -removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the centreconsole.2 Chock the front wheels, remove the rearwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the rear of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the rear roadwheels andrelease the handbrake.3 Undo the bolts securing the exhaustsystem front heat shield to the underbody.Release the exhaust system front rubber

mountings, and remove the heat shield bytwisting it around the exhaust system (seeillustration).4 Extract the spring clip and withdraw theclevis pin securing the front handbrake cableto the compensator (see illustration).5 Undo the two bolts securing the front cableguide plate to the underbody (seeillustration).6 From inside the car, undo the four boltssecuring the handbrake lever assembly to thefloor.7 Disconnect the wiring plug from thewarning light switch on the side of thehandbrake lever, then remove the leverassembly, complete with front cable, from thecar. Recover the lever-to-floor gasket.8 Unscrew the handbrake adjuster on the

9•14 Braking system

19.5 Undo the front cable guide plateretaining bolts (arrowed)

18.6 Undo the four handbrake leverretaining bolts (arrowed)

19.4 Extract the cable retaining spring clipand clevis pin (arrowed)

19.3 Removing the front heat shield fromthe exhaust system

18.5 Disconnect the warning light switchwiring plug (arrowed)

18.3 Unscrew the handbrake adjuster onthe side of the lever

17.7 Handbrake adjuster location(arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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side of the lever, and remove the adjuster andspacing washer from the front cable.9 Release the front cable and gaiter from thehandbrake lever assembly, then remove thecable from the gaiter.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjustthe handbrake as described in Section 17before lowering the car to the ground.

20 Handbrake cable (rear) -removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, remove the rearwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the rear of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the rear roadwheels andrelease the handbrake.2 Release the exhaust system rubbermountings, lower the system at the rear, andsupport it on blocks to avoid straining thefront flexible joint.3 Undo the retaining bolts and remove thefront and rear exhaust system heat shields(see illustration).4 On early models, undo the three bolts andremove the handbrake linkage cover from thebrake caliper.5 Extract the spring clip and withdraw the

clevis pin securing the handbrake cable to thelinkage lever on the caliper (see illus-tration 8.5).6 Withdraw the spring clip securing the cableto the abutment bracket, and remove thecable from the caliper.7 Undo the bolts and release the cablesupport clips on the suspension arm, chassismember and underbody (see illustrations).8 Disconnect the return spring, extract thespring clip and withdraw the clevis pinsecuring the front handbrake cable to thecompensator (see illustration).9 Turn the rear cable end through 90º, andrelease it from the slot in the compensator.10 Withdraw the cable from the abutmentbracket, and remove it from under the car.Remove the support clips from the cable.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjustthe handbrake as described in Section 17before lowering the car to the ground.

21 Stop-light switch - removal,refitting and adjustment 1

Removal1 From inside the car, release the turnbucklesand lift out the trim panel over the clutch,brake and accelerator pedals.

2 Disconnect the switch wiring multiplug,then slacken the locknut and unscrew theswitch from the brake pedal bracket (seeillustration).

Refitting and adjustment3 Refit the switch to the brake pedal bracketthen adjust its position as follows.4 Temporarily reconnect the wiring multiplugso that the switch terminals connected to thegreen/purple, and purple or purple/pink wirescan be noted.5 Remove the multiplug once more andconnect an ohmmeter across the switchgreen/purple terminal, and purple orpurple/pink terminal.6 Turn the switch anti-clockwise until theohmmeter reads zero. Now turn the switchclockwise until the ohmmeter reads infinity.On cars equipped with cruise control, turnthe switch clockwise one further turn. Oncars without cruise control, turn the switchclockwise a further half a turn. Hold theswitch in this position and tighten thelocknut.7 Disconnect the ohmmeter and reconnectthe switch wiring multiplug. Ensure that themultiplug is correctly connected otherwise thestop lights will illuminate whenever the ignitionis switched on.8 Refit the trim panel over the pedals.

Braking system 9•15

20.7b . . . and rear underbody20.7a Cable support on the chassismember . . .

20.3 Removing the rear heat shield fromthe exhaust system

21.2 Stop-light switch wiring multiplug (A)and locknut (B)

20.8 Handbrake cable return spring (A)and retaining clevis pin (B)

20.7c Front cable support retaining bolts(arrowed)

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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22 Vacuum servo unit - generalinformation and testing 1

General information1 A vacuum servo unit is located between thebrake pedal and master cylinder, to provideassistance to the driver when the brake pedalis depressed. This reduces the effort requiredby the driver to operate the brakes under allbraking conditions.2 The unit operates by vacuum obtained fromthe inlet manifold, and consists basically of adiaphragm, control valve and non-returnvalve.3 With the brake pedal released, vacuum ischannelled to both sides of the diaphragm,but when the pedal is depressed, one side isopened to atmosphere. The resultant unequalpressures are harnessed to assist indepressing the master cylinder pistons.4 Normally, the servo unit is very reliable, butif the unit becomes faulty it must be renewedcomplete, as repair is not possible. In theevent of failure, the hydraulic system is in noway affected, except that higher pedalpressures will be necessary.

Testing5 To test the servo unit, depress the brakepedal several times with the engine switchedoff, to destroy the vacuum.6 Apply moderate pressure to the brakepedal, then start the engine. The pedal shouldmove down slightly as the vacuum is restored,if the servo is operating correctly.7 Now switch off the engine and wait fiveminutes. Vacuum should still be available forat least one assisted operation of the pedal.

23 Vacuum servo unit - removaland refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the master cylinder as described inSection 11.2 From inside the car, release the turnbucklesand lift out the trim panel over the clutch,brake and accelerator pedals.3 Extract the retaining clip and withdraw theclevis pin securing the servo pushrod to thebrake pedal.4 From within the engine compartment,remove the vacuum hose elbow from the front

face of the servo by prising it out of itsgrommet.5 Unscrew the four retaining nuts inside thecar, and withdraw the servo unit from theengine compartment bulkhead.6 With the servo removed, the air filter can berenewed if necessary. Withdraw the dustcover over the air filter and pushrod. Hook outthe washer and old filter, and cut the filter toallow removal over the pushrod fork. Similarlycut the new filter, place it in position in thehousing, and refit the washer and dust cover.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a newgasket on the servo-to-bulkhead mating face,and tighten the retaining nuts to the specifiedtorque. Refit the master cylinder as describedin Section 11.

24 Anti-lock braking system -general information

Later Rover 800 series models are availablewith an anti-lock braking system (ABS) asstandard equipment or an optional extra. Thesystem is used in conjunction with the normalbraking system to provide greater stability,improved steering control and shorterstopping distances under all brakingconditions. Two different ABS systems havebeen used, the later type introduced for the1992 model year, operates in basically thesame way as the early system butincorporates modifications to the hydraulicmodulator and electronic control unit. A briefdescription of the operation of both systemsis as follows (see illustration). Each wheel isprovided with a wheel speed sensor, whichmonitors the wheel rotational speed. Thesensor consists of a magnetic core and coil,and is mounted at a predetermined distancefrom a toothed reluctor ring. The reluctor ringsfor the front wheels are pressed onto thedriveshaft outer constant velocity joints, andthose for the rear wheels are pressed onto therear hubs. When each hub turns, the magneticfield of the sensor is altered as the reluctorring teeth pass the sensor head, thus inducingan alternating voltage, the frequency of whichvaries according to wheel speed.

Signals from the wheel speed sensors aresent to an electronic control unit, which canaccurately determine whether a wheel isaccelerating or decelerating in relation to areference speed. Information from theelectronic control unit is sent to the hydraulicmodulator which, on the early system,contains four solenoids each operating oneinlet and one exhaust valve for each brake. Onthe later system, the modulator contains onesolenoid for each front brake, plus onesolenoid and a copy valve for the rear brakes.On both systems the solenoids all workindependently of each other in three distinctphases:

9•16 Braking system

24.1 Anti-lock braking system main components (pre-1992 model year version shown,later version similar)

1 Vacuum servo unit2 Master cylinder3 Hydraulic modulator4 Modulator control relay -

solenoid valve operation

5 Modulator control relay -return pump operation

6 Electronic control unit7 Over-voltage protection

relay

8 Front wheel speed sensorreluctor ring

9 Front wheel speed sensor10 ABS warning light

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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Pressure build-up phase: The solenoid inletvalves are open, and hydraulic pressure fromthe master cylinder is applied directly to thebrake calipers.

Constant pressure phase: The solenoid inletand exhaust valves are closed, and hydraulicpressure at the calipers is maintained at aconstant level, even though master cylinderpressure may increase.

Pressure reduction phase: The solenoidinlet valve is closed to prevent furtherhydraulic pressure reaching the caliper and, inaddition, the exhaust valve is open, to reduceexisting pressure and release the brake. Fluidis returned to the master cylinder in this phasevia the return pump in the hydraulicmodulator.

The braking cycle for one wheel is thereforeas follows, and will be the same for all fourwheels, although independently.

Wheel rotational speed is measured by thewheel speed sensors, the information isprocessed by the electronic control unit. Bycomparing the signals received from eachwheel, the control unit can determine areference speed, and detect any variationfrom this speed, which would indicate alocking brake. Should a lock-up condition bedetected, the control unit initiates theconstant pressure phase, and no furtherincrease in hydraulic pressure is applied to theaffected brake. If the lock-up condition is stilldetected, the pressure reduction phase isinitiated to allow the wheel to turn. The controlunit returns to the constant pressure phaseuntil the wheel rotational speed exceeds apredetermined value, then the cycle repeatswith the control unit re-initiating the pressurebuild-up phase. This control cycle iscontinuously and rapidly repeated, until thebrake pedal is released or the car comes to astop.

Additional circuitry within the electroniccontrol unit monitors the functioning of thesystem, and informs the driver of any faultcondition by means of a warning light. Shoulda fault occur, the system switches off allowingnormal braking, without ABS, to continue.

25 Anti-lock braking system -component removal andrefitting

3ABS main relays1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Undo the screw and lift off the plastic coverover the hydraulic modulator.3 Remove the relays by pulling them out oftheir location. The relay nearest the hydraulicpipe connection end of the modulator controlsthe solenoid valve operation, and the relayfurthest away from the hydraulic pipeconnections controls the return pumpoperation.4 Refitting is the reversal of removal.

Over-voltage protection relay5 An over-voltage protection relay is onlyused on the early systems.6 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).7 Working in the luggage compartment,release the turnbuckle and lift off the coverover the electronic control unit.8 Withdraw the relay from its socket which islocated below the ECU on Saloon models,and to the side of the ECU, behind the trimpanel on Fastback models.9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Electronic control unit

Early system10 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).11 Working in the luggage compartment onthe left-hand side, release the turnbuckle andlift off the control unit cover.12 Disconnect the wiring multiplug bydepressing the spring tab at the cable end, liftthe plug up at the cable end, then disengagethe tab at the other end.13 Undo the retaining bolts and remove theunit from its location.14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butensure that the wiring multiplug engagessecurely with an audible click from the springtab.

Later system15 On the system fitted to later models, theECU is attached to the hydraulic modulator.16 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).17 Undo the screw and lift off the plasticcover over the hydraulic modulator.18 Release the metal clip securing the mainwiring harness to the ECU then disconnectthe three wiring multiplugs.

19 Undo the six Torx screws and withdrawthe ECU from the top of the hydraulicmodulator.20 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Hydraulic modulatorNote: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Early system21 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).22 Undo the screw and lift off the plasticcover over the hydraulic modulator. Unscrewthe cable clamp and disconnect themodulator wiring multiplug. Undo the earthterminal nut and disconnect the earth leadfrom the modulator (see illustration).23 Remove the master cylinder reservoir fillercap, and place a piece of polythene over thefiller neck. Seal the polythene with an elasticband, ensuring that an airtight seal isobtained. This will minimise brake fluid lossduring subsequent operations. Place ragsbeneath the modulator as an addedprecaution against fluid spillage.24 If no identification labels are present onthe modulator brake pipe unions, identifyeach pipe and its location as an aid torefitting. The modulator ports should bestamped on the modulator body with a two-letter code as follows:VR Right-hand frontVL Left-hand frontHR Right-hand rearHL Left-hand rear25 Unscrew each brake pipe union at themodulator, withdraw the pipe, andimmediately plug the pipe end and orifice.Release the pipe support bracket from theside of the modulator, and carefully ease thepipes clear.

Braking system 9•17

25.22 ABS hydraulic modulator attachments (early version shown)

1 Cover retaining screw2 Modulator relay cover3 Cable clamp screws

4 Cable clamp5 Multiplug6 Brake pipe unions

7 Mounting nuts8 Modulator9 Mounting rubbers

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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26 Slacken the modulator mounting nuts andremove the unit from its location. Do notattempt to dismantle the modulator, as it is asealed unit, and no repairs are possible.27 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleedthe hydraulic system as described in Sec-tion 2 on completion.

Later system28 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).29 Remove the electronic control unit fromthe modulator as described previously.30 Undo the earth terminal nut anddisconnect the earth lead from the modulator.31 Remove the master cylinder reservoir fillercap, and place a piece of polythene over thefiller neck. Seal the polythene with an elasticband, ensuring that an airtight seal isobtained. This will minimise brake fluid lossduring subsequent operations. Place ragsbeneath the modulator as an addedprecaution against fluid spillage.32 If no identification labels are present onthe modulator brake pipe unions, identifyeach pipe and its location as an aid torefitting. The modulator ports should bestamped on the modulator body with a two-letter code as follows:RF Right-hand frontLF Left-hand frontRR Right-hand rearLR Left-hand rear

33 Unscrew each brake pipe union at themodulator, withdraw the pipe, andimmediately plug the pipe end and orifice.34 Slacken the three modulator mountingnuts and remove the unit from its location. Donot attempt to dismantle the modulator, as itis a sealed unit, and no repairs are possible.35 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleedthe hydraulic system as described in Sec-tion 2 on completion.

Front wheel speed sensor36 Apply the handbrake, remove the frontwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the front of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the front roadwheel.37 Undo the bolts securing the cable harnesssupport brackets to the steering knuckle andinner wheelarch panel (see illustration).38 From within the engine compartment,release the wiring connector from its holder,and separate the connector. Release thewheelarch grommet and pull the wiringthrough to the wheelarch.39 Undo the bolt securing the sensor to thesensor bracket on the steering knuckle, andcarefully prise the sensor out of the bracket.40 Release the sensor wiring from thesupport bracket, and remove the unit from thecar.41 Undo the two bolts and remove thesensor bracket from the steering knuckle.42 Prior to refitting, clean the sensor, sensor

bracket and the mounting area on the steeringknuckle, removing all traces of dirt and grit.43 Refitting is a reversal of removal.Lubricate the sensor and sensor bracket withRocol J166 or Molykote FB180, and ensurethat the bracket bosses face the hub whenfitting. Tighten all bolts to the specifiedtorque, and check the sensor-to-reluctor ringclearance, which should be as given in theSpecifications.

Rear wheel speed sensor44 Chock the front wheels, remove the rearwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the rear of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the rear roadwheel.45 Working in the luggage compartment onthe left-hand side, release the turnbuckle andlift off the cover over the electronic controlunit (early systems only) (see illustration).46 Remove the left-hand side inner trimpanel.47 Disconnect the wheel speed sensor wiringat the cable connector.48 Undo the two screws and remove theplastic liner on the front face of the rearwheelarch.49 Release the grommets in the luggagecompartment floor and inner wheelarch, thenpull the wiring through to the wheelarch.50 Undo the two bolts and remove the cablecover and guide from the chassis member.51 Release the cable ties and retaining clips

9•18 Braking system

25.37 Front wheel speed sensor attachments

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Cable harness support bracketbolt on steering knuckle

2 Cable harness support bracketand bolt on inner wheelarchpanel

3 Wiring connector4 Wheelarch grommet5 Sensor-to-sensor bracket

retaining bolt6 Sensor7 Harness support bracket8 Sensor bracket-to-steering

knuckle retaining bolt9 Sensor bracket

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Braking system 9•19

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Electronic control unit cover2 Left-hand side trim panel3 Cable connector4 Rear wheelarch plastic liner5 Luggage compartment floor grommet6 Sensor wiring

7 Inner wheelarch grommet8 Cover bolts9 Cable cover and guide10 Cable retaining clip11 Cable tie12 Support bracket bolt

13 Cable harness support bracket onsuspension arm

14 Handbrake linkage cover bolts15 Handbrake linkage cover16 Sensor-to-bracket retaining bolt17 Wheel speed sensor

securing the sensor wiring to the chassismember.52 Undo the three bolts securing the cableharness support bracket to the rearsuspension arm.53 Undo the three bolts and remove thehandbrake linkage cover from the brakecaliper.54 Undo the bolt securing the sensor to thesensor bracket on the hub carrier, andcarefully prise the sensor out of the bracket.55 Manipulate the sensor and wiring out fromunder the wheelarch, and remove it from car.56 Prior to refitting, clean the sensor, sensor

bracket and the mounting area on the hubcarrier, removing all traces of dirt and grit.57 Refitting is a reversal of removal.Lubricate the sensor and sensor bracket withRocol J166 or Molykote FB180, and tighten allbolts to the specified torque. Check thesensor-to-reluctor ring clearance, whichshould be as given in the Specifications.

Wheel speed sensor reluctorrings58 The reluctor rings for the front and rearwheel speed sensors are an integral part ofthe driveshaft outer constant velocity joints

(front) and rear wheel hub flanges (rear), andcannot be renewed separately.59 If a reluctor ring is damaged, or in any wayunserviceable, a new driveshaft outerconstant velocity joint or rear hub flange mustbe obtained as applicable. Removal andrefitting procedures are covered in Chapters 8and 10 respectively.

ABS copy valve60 Removal and refitting procedures for thecopy valve fitted to the later type ABS systemare the same as those for the pressure-reducing valve used on the standard brakingsystem. Refer to Section 14 for details.

25.45 ABS rear wheel speed sensor attachments

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

10

Front suspensionType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent, by unequal length upper and lower suspension arms,

with coil springs, telescopic shock absorbers and anti-roll barHub bearing endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm

Rear suspensionType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent, by transverse and training links, with coil springs,

telescopic shock absorbers and anti-roll bar. Self-levelling suspensionoptional on certain models

Hub bearing endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm

SteeringType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Power-assisted rack and pinionTurns lock-to-lock:

4-cylinder engine models without turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.124-cylinder turbo engine models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.97V6 engine models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.36

Front and rear wheel alignmentFront wheel toe setting:

Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Parallel ± 0º 8’1992 model year onward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Parallel ± 0º 15’

Rear wheel toe setting:Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 10’ ± 0º 4’ toe-in1992 model year onward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 22’ ± 0º 15’ toe-in

RoadwheelsType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed steel or light alloyWheel size:

4-cylinder engine models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6J x 14, 6J x 15, 6J x 16 or 7J x 17 (3.5J x 15 space saver sparewheel)

V6 engine models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6J x 15 or 6J x 16 (3.5J x 15 space saver spare wheel)

Chapter 10Suspension and steering systems

Ancillary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Front hub bearing - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Front lower suspension arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Front shock absorber and coil spring assembly - dismantling

and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Front shock absorber and coil spring assembly - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Front steering knuckle assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 2Front tie-bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Front upper suspension arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Power steering gear - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Power steering fluid cooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Rear anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Rear coil spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Rear hub bearing - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Rear hub carrier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Rear shock absorber - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Rotary coupler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Steering column - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Steering column lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Steering gear rubber gaiter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Steering knuckle balljoint - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Steering, suspension and roadwheel check . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Steering track rod - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Trailing link - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Transverse link - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Tyre condition and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information . . . . . . . 28

10•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

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TyresTyre size:

4-cylinder engine models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/70 VR 14, 195/65 VR 15, 205/55 VR 16 or 215/45 ZR 17 (115/70 R 15 space saver)

V6 engine models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65 VR 15, 205/60 VR 15 or 205/55 VR 16 (115/70 R 15 spacesaver)

Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Front suspensionAnti-roll bar connecting link bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Anti-roll bar mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Driveshaft retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415 306Upper suspension arm balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Strut forked member to lower arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 66Strut forked member clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44Shock absorber top mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Shock absorber spindle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Upper suspension arm mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59Upper suspension arm pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 66Lower suspension arm inner mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Tie-bar front mounting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 66Tie-bar to lower suspension arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 125Longitudinal support member bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Rear suspensionAnti-roll bar connecting link nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Anti-roll bar mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Hub carrier to trailing link bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52Hub carrier to transverse link bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52Shock absorber to hub carrier clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52Shock absorber upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Shock absorber spindle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 38Hub flange retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 181Transverse link inner mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Trailing link front mounting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Trailing link adjustment plate retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52Trailing link adjustment plate eccentric bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52SteeringSteering wheel nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Air bag module to steering wheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Steering column upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 10Steering column lower mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Column universal joint clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Steering track rod balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 32Steering track rod locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Steering rack hydraulic unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15Steering gear mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Steering gear lower cover plate bolts (V6 engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Steering knuckle balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74Power steering pump retaining bolts:

4-cylinder engine - rear-mounted pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 184-cylinder engine - front-mounted pump:

Early version (4 mounting bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Later version (5 mounting bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

V6 engine:Mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 29Adjusting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Power steering pump pulley nut/bolt:4-cylinder engine - rear-mounted pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 614-cylinder engine - front-mounted pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18V6 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 24

Power steering pump drivebelt tensioner wheel retaining nut (4-cylinder engine - rear mounted pump) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Power steering pump high pressure pipe connector bolts (V6 engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8

RoadwheelsRoadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

10•2 Suspension and steering systems

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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1 General information

The independent front suspension is byunequal length upper and lower suspensionarms, and utilizes coil springs and telescopicshock absorbers (see illustration). Each springand shock absorber assembly is attached to thebody turret at its upper end by a rubber-cushioned mounting, and to the lowersuspension arm by a forged, forked-shapedmember. Fore and aft location of eachsuspension assembly is by a tie-bar, and an anti-roll bar is used to minimise body roll. The frontsteering knuckles, which carry the hub bearings,brake calipers and the hub/disc assemblies,pivot on balljoints - one incorporated in the uppersuspension arm, and one secured to the lowerpart of the steering knuckle itself.

The independent rear suspension is bytransverse and trailing links with coil springs,telescopic shock absorbers, and an anti-rollbar (see illustration). The shock absorbers areattached to the body at their upper ends byrubber-cushioned mountings, and clamped tothe hub carriers at their lower ends. Laterallocation of each suspension assembly isprovided by the transverse link, which alsoprovides the lower location of the coil spring.Fore and aft location of each suspensionassembly is controlled by the trailing link,which is attached to the hub carrier by meansof a bracket incorporating an eccentricmounting bolt for rear wheel toe adjustment.

Self-levelling rear suspension, which reactsto vehicle loading and automatically maintainsthe normal trim heights, is available on certainmodels. The self-levelling units are sealeddampers fitted in place of the normal rearshock absorbers. A pump in the damperoperates under the action of the suspensionto raise the rear of the car until normal trimheight is regained. On an undulating road, thisprocess will be carried out within one mile.When the additional load is removed, thesuspension remains at the correct level.

Power-assisted rack and pinion steeringgear is standard equipment on all models.Movement of the steering wheel is transmittedto the steering gear by a steering columnshaft containing two universal joints (seeillustration). These allow for provision of arake-adjustable column assembly, and alsoallow the necessary upward deflection of thecolumn, for driver safety, in the event of frontend impact. The front wheels are connectedto the steering gear by track rods, eachhaving an inner and outer balljoint. On early 4-cylinder engine models, hydraulic fluidpressure for the power assistance is providedby a pump, mounted on the left-hand end ofthe engine and belt-driven from a pulley onthe inlet camshaft. On later 4-cylinder, and allV6 engine models, the pump is mounted atthe timing belt end of the engine and is belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley.

Suspension and steering systems 10•3

1.2 Rear suspension assembly

1 Coil spring 3 Trailing link2 Shock absorber 4 Anti-roll bar

1.1 Front suspension assembly

1 Upper suspension arm 4 Tie-bar2 Lower suspension arm 5 Coil spring3 Shock absorber 6 Anti-roll bar

1.4 Exploded view of the steering column components

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Column upper shroud2 Wiring harness3 Steering wheel pad4 Steering wheel5 Steering wheel nut6 Multifunction switches7 Shear bolts8 Lock saddle9 Column shaft10 Universal joint11 Clamp bolt12 Column

lock/ignition switch

13 Column lower shroud

14 Wiring harness

Page 174: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

2 Front steering knuckleassembly - removal and refitting

3Note: A new driveshaft retaining nut will berequired for refitting.

Removal1 While the car is standing on its wheels.firmly apply the handbrake and put thetransmission in gear (PARK on automaticmodels).2 Remove the wheel trim, and using a smallpunch, knock up the staking that secures thedriveshaft retaining nut to the groove in theconstant velocity joint stub shaft (see

illustration). Note that a new retaining nut willbe needed for reassembly.3 Using a socket, sturdy T-bar and longextension tube for leverage, slacken theretaining nut half a turn. Note that theretaining nut is tightened to a very high torquesetting, and considerable effort will berequired to slacken it.4 Slacken the wheel nuts, jack up the front ofthe car and support it on stands. Remove theroadwheel and put the transmission in neutral.5 Remove the driveshaft retaining nut.6 Undo the two bolts securing the brakecaliper carrier bracket to the steering knuckle,and the two bolts securing the brake hosebracket to the knuckle (see illustration).7 Withdraw the caliper and carrier bracketassembly, complete with brake pads, off thedisc, and tie it up using string or wire from aconvenient place under the wheelarch. Takecare to avoid straining the brake hose.8 Undo the two retaining screws and removethe disc from the hub flange (see illustration).9 On cars with ABS brakes, remove the frontwheel speed sensor and wiring harness fromthe steering knuckle, as described in Chap-ter 9.10 Extract the split pin and unscrew the nutsecuring the steering track rod balljoint to thesteering knuckle arm (see illustration).Release the balljoint from the arm using auniversal balljoint separator tool.11 Undo the nut securing the steeringknuckle balljoint to the lower suspension arm.

Release the balljoint from the arm using aseparator tool or two-legged puller (seeillustration).12 Undo the nut securing the uppersuspension arm balljoint to the steeringknuckle, and release the balljoint using thesame procedure as for the lower balljoint (seeillustration).13 Disengage the balljoint shanks, thenwithdraw the steering knuckle from thedriveshaft (see illustration). If necessary, tapthe end of the driveshaft with a copper orplastic mallet to release it from the hubsplines. Remove the steering knuckleassembly from the car.

Refitting14 Refitting the steering knuckle is a reversalof removal, bearing in mind the followingpoints:(a) Tighten all retaining nuts and bolts to the

specified torque and use a new split pinto secure the steering track rod balljointnut.

(b) Use a new driveshaft retaining nut but donot attempt to tighten this nut fully untilthe weight of the car is on the roadwheels(see illustration). Peen the nut into thedriveshaft groove using a small punchafter tightening. If a torque wrenchcapable of recording the high figurerequired for tightening is not available, it isrecommended that the old nut is fitted,tightened as securely as possible, then

10•4 Suspension and steering systems

2.13 Withdrawing the steering knucklefrom the driveshaft

2.12 Undo the upper suspension armballjoint nut (arrowed)

2.11 Using a two-legged puller to releasethe steering knuckle balljoint

2.10 Extract the track rod balljoint nut splitpin (arrowed)

2.8 Brake disc retaining screws (arrowed)2.6 Brake caliper carrier bracket securingbolts (arrowed)

2.2 Knock up the staking (arrowed)securing the driveshaft retaining nut

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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peened into place. Take the car directly toa suitably-equipped garage, and havethem fit and tighten the new nut for you.

(c) On cars equipped with ABS brakes, refitthe wheel speed sensor as described inChapter 9.

3 Front hub bearing - renewal 3

1 Remove the steering knuckle from the caras described in the previous Section.2 Support the steering knuckle on blocks withthe hub flange facing downwards. Using ahammer and socket, or tube, in contact withthe inner edge of the hub flange, drive theflange out of the hub bearing (seeillustration). Alternatively, if a press isavailable, support the steering knuckle on thepress bed and press the hub flange out (seeillustration).3 As the hub flange is withdrawn, one of thebearing inner races will come away with it,and must now be removed. To do this,engage the legs of a two-legged puller underthe inner race and draw it off. It may be easierto do this if a horseshoe-shaped strip of metalis placed under the inner race, to give thepuller legs greater purchase (see illustration).4 With the hub flange removed, undo the fourscrews and remove the disc shield.5 Using circlip pliers, extract the bearingretaining circlip from the steering knuckle.

6 Support the steering knuckle face-down onblocks, or on the press bed as before, andwith the tube or mandrel in contact with theedge of the outer bearing, drive or press thebearing out (see illustration).7 Fit the new bearing in the same way,ensuring that it is pressed fully home to theshoulder in the steering knuckle (seeillustration). Keep the bearing square as it isfitted, otherwise it will jam and continuedpressure could cause the outer race to crack.If the bearing does jam, tap or press it out,remove any burrs in the bore of the steeringknuckle and try again.8 Secure the bearing with the circlip, thenrefit the disc shield.9 Support the bearing inner race on a socket

or tube, and drive or press the hub flange intoplace (see illustration).10 The steering knuckle can now be refittedto the car as described in the previousSection.

4 Steering knuckle balljoint -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the steering knuckle from the caras described in Section 2.2 Extract the balljoint retaining circlip andremove the dust cover (see illustration).

Suspension and steering systems 10•5

3.2b . . . or preferably support the steeringknuckle on a press bed and press the hub

flange out using a mandrel

3.2a Remove the hub flange using asocket or tube in contact with its outer

edge (arrowed) . . .

2.14 Tighten the new driveshaft retainingnut fully only when the weight of the car is

on the roadwheels

4.2 Balljoint retaining circlip (arrowed)3.9 Fitting the hub flange to the newbearing

3.6 Removing the hub bearing from thesteering knuckle

3.3 Using a puller and horseshoe-shapedstrip of metal to draw off the bearing inner

race from the hub flange

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

3.7 Fitting the new hub bearing to thesteering knuckle

Page 176: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

3 Support the steering knuckle in a wide-opening vice or on a press bed, and usingtubes as mandrels and distance pieces, pressthe balljoint out of the knuckle. Themanufacturer’s special tools being used forthis purpose are shown, to give an idea of thearrangement, but lengths of tubular steel workequally well (see illustration).

Refitting4 Using the same basic procedure as forremoval, fit the new balljoint until its shouldercontacts the steering knuckle flange.5 Fit the new dust cover and secure theassembly with the circlip.6 Refit the steering knuckle to the car asdescribed in Section 2.

5 Front shock absorber andcoil spring assembly -removal and refitting

3Removal1 Apply the handbrake, prise off the frontwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the front of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the front roadwheel.2 Place a jack beneath the lower suspensionarm and raise the arm slightly.3 Undo the nut and remove the through-boltsecuring the forked member to the lowersuspension arm.4 Undo the nut and remove the clamp boltsecuring the forked member to the shockabsorber.5 Slowly lower the jack, and remove theforked member from the shock absorber andlower suspension arm (see illustration). Itmay be necessary to tap the member downusing a copper or plastic mallet to release itfrom the shock absorber.6 Have an assistant hold the assembly, frombelow, then undo the three nuts securing theshock absorber top mounting to the bodyturret in the engine compartment (seeillustration).7 Remove the shock absorber and springassembly from under the wheelarch.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten allnuts and bolts to the specified torque, but do

not fully tighten the forked member-to-lowerarm bolt and nut until the weight of the car ison the roadwheels.

6 Front shock absorber andcoil spring assembly -dismantling and reassembly

4Warning: Before attempting todismantle the shock absorberand coil spring assembly, a toolto hold the spring in

compression must be obtained. Adjustablecoil spring compressors are readilyavailable, and are recommended for thisoperation. Any attempt at dismantlingwithout such a tool is likely to result indamage or personal injury.

Dismantling1 Remove the shock absorber and coil springassembly as described in the previousSection.2 Position the spring compressors on eitherside of the spring, and compress the springevenly until there is no tension on the springseat or upper mounting (see illustration).3 Hold the unthreaded end of the shockabsorber spindle with a self-locking wrench orsimilar tool, and unscrew the upper mountingretaining nut (see illustration).4 Withdraw the washer under the nut,followed by the upper bush, the uppermounting plate and the spring seat.5 To remove the threaded collar on the shockabsorber spindle, it will be necessary to makeup a tool which will engage in the slots on thecollar, enabling it to be unscrewed. A tool can

10•6 Suspension and steering systems

6.3 Remove the retaining nut (arrowed)from the shock absorber spindle

5.6 Shock absorber top mountingretaining nuts (arrowed)

5.5 Removing the front suspension forkedmember

4.3 Rover special tool for steering knuckleballjoint removal

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

6.2 Coil spring and shock absorberassembly, showing spring compressor tool

in position6.5 Shock absorber threaded collar home-

made removal tool

Page 177: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

be made out of a large nut, with one endsuitably shaped by cutting or filing so that twoprojections are left, which will engage with thecollar slots (see illustration).6 Engage the home-made tool with thethreaded collar slots, then screw two 10 mmnuts onto the threaded end of the spindle, andlock them together. Hold these locknuts toprevent the spindle turning, and unscrew thethreaded collar.7 Remove the locknuts, home-made tool andcollar, then withdraw the lower bush andwasher.8 Lift off the spring, then remove the bump-stop and shock absorber dust cover.9 Examine the shock absorber for signs offluid leakage. Check the spindle for signs ofwear or pitting along its entire length, andcheck the shock absorber body for signs ofdamage or corrosion. Test the operation ofthe shock absorber, while holding it in anupright position, by moving the spindlethrough a full stroke, and then through shortstrokes of 50 to 100 mm. In both cases, theresistance felt should be smooth andcontinuous. If the resistance is jerky oruneven, or if there is any visible sign of wear,damage or fluid leakage, renewal isnecessary.10 If any doubt exists about the condition ofthe coil spring, remove the springcompressors and check the spring fordistortion or damage. The spring free lengthcan only be assessed by comparing it with anew item, and this should be done if the

spring is suspect. Renew the spring ifnecessary, ideally in pairs (both sides).11 Check the condition of the spring seatand upper mounting components, and renewany parts which are suspect.

Reassembly12 Begin reassembly by refitting the shockabsorber dust cover and bump-stop.13 Refit the spring compressors, if previouslyremoved, and place the spring in position onthe shock absorber.14 Refit the washer, lower bush and threadedcollar. Tighten the collar using the sameprocedure as for removal.15 Refit the spring seat, upper mountingplate, upper bush and washer. Secure theupper mounting assembly with the retainingnut, tightened to the specified torque.16 Remove the spring compressors, and refitthe spring and shock absorber to the car asdescribed in Section 5.

7 Front upper suspension arm- removal and refitting 3

Note: The upper suspension arm incorporatesthe steering knuckle upper support balljoint as a riveted integral assembly. If wearof the balljoint necessitates renewal, acomplete upper suspension arm must beobtained.

Removal1 Apply the handbrake, prise off the frontwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the front of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the front roadwheel.2 Undo the nut securing the uppersuspension arm balljoint to the steeringknuckle (see illustrations). Release theballjoint using a separator tool or two-leggedpuller.3 From within the engine compartment, undothe two nuts securing the suspension armmounting bracket to the inner wing valance.For access to the rearmost nut, it may benecessary to move the wiring harnessconnectors aside, or if working on the left-hand suspension arm, to undo the bolts andmove the wiper motor bracket slightly.4 Withdraw the upper suspension armassembly from under the wheelarch.5 With the arm on the bench, undo the nutand withdraw the pivot bolt then remove thearm from its mounting bracket.6 Check the condition of the balljoint dustcover, and check the balljoint for excess freeplay. Also check the condition of the pivotbushes and the arm itself. The bushes can berenewed by drifting them out then pressing innew ones. If the balljoint, balljoint dust coveror the suspension arm show signs of damageor wear, a complete new assembly must beobtained. Examine the pivot bolt for signs ofwear ridges, and check the mounting bracketfor elongation of the pivot bolt holes. Renewany components as necessary.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tightenall nuts and bolts to the specified torque.

8 Front lower suspension arm- removal and refitting 4

Removal1 Apply the handbrake, prise off the frontwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the front of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the front roadwheel.

Suspension and steering systems 10•7

7.2b Undo the nut securing the upper armballjoint to the steering knuckle (arrowed)

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

7.2a Upper suspension arm attachment details

1 Balljoint-to-steering knuckle retaining nut2 Releasing the balljoint with a separator tool3 Mounting bracket retaining nuts

4 Mounting bracket5 Pivot bolt6 Upper suspension arm

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2 Undo the nut securing the steering knuckleballjoint to the lower suspension arm (seeillustration). Release the balljoint using aseparator tool or two-legged puller.3 Undo the nut and remove the through-boltsecuring the shock absorber forked memberto the arm.4 Undo the bolt securing the anti-roll barconnecting link to the arm.5 Undo the two bolts securing the tie-bar tothe arm.6 Undo the nut and remove the suspensionarm inner mounting bolt (see illustration).7 Withdraw the suspension arm from its innermounting location, and remove it from underthe wheelarch.8 Check the condition of the two suspensionarm bushes, and renew these if worn ordamaged. To do this, a press will be required,

together with mandrels and distance tubes. Ifthis equipment is not available, have this workdone by a Rover dealer or suitably-equippedgarage.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tightenall nuts and bolts to the specified torque. Donot fully tighten the inner mounting bolt or theforked member retaining bolt until the weightof the car is on its roadwheels.

9 Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Apply the handbrake, prise off the frontwheel trims and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the front of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the front roadwheels.2 Undo the single bolt each side securing theanti-roll bar connecting links to the lowersuspension arms (see illustration).

3 Undo the two bolts each side securing theanti-roll bar mounting brackets to the chassismembers, and remove the bar from under thecar (see illustration).4 If required, the connecting links can beremoved after undoing the retaining nut andbolt on each side.5 Check the condition of the connecting linkbushes and the anti-roll bar mounting bushes,and renew any that show signs of deterioration.The connecting link bushes come completewith new connecting links, and the mountingbushes are slit along their length to allowremoval and refitting over the bar.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten themounting and connecting link bushes to thespecified torque only with the weight of the caron its roadwheels.

10 Front tie-bar - removal and refitting 4

Note: On some models, it may be found thatthe tie-bar-to-lower suspension arm boltscannot be withdrawn because of the proximityof the driveshaft. In this case, it will benecessary to release the lower suspensionarm balljoint and disconnect the arm from theshock absorber, as described in Section 8.

Removal1 Apply the handbrake, prise off the frontwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the front of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the front roadwheel.2 Undo the five bolts and remove the undertrayfor access to the tie-bar front mounting.3 Undo the front mounting nut and removethe tie-bar washer and outer mounting bush(see illustration).

10•8 Suspension and steering systems

10.3 Front tie-bar attachment details9.3 Anti-roll bar mounting bracket bolts

(arrowed)

9.2 Anti-roll bar connecting link bolt(arrowed)

8.6 Lower suspension arm inner mountingbolt (arrowed)

8.2 Undo the nut securing the steeringknuckle balljoint to the lower suspension

arm

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Front mountingnut

2 Washer3 Outer mounting

bush4 Tie-bar-to-lower

suspension armbolts

5 Tie-bar6 Inner mounting

bush7 Washer8 Spacer

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4 Undo the two bolts securing the tie-bar tothe lower suspension arm, and remove thebar from under the car.5 Withdraw the spacer, inner mounting bushand washer.6 Renew the mounting bushes if they showany sign of deformation or swelling of therubber.

Refitting7 Fit the washer, inner bush and spacer, thenlocate the tie-bar in position.8 Secure the tie-bar to the lower suspensionarm, with the two bolts tightened to thespecified torque.9 Fit the outer bush and washer, followed bythe retaining nut, but do not tighten the nutfully until the weight of the car is on itsroadwheels.10 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the car tothe ground.11 Tighten the roadwheel nuts and the tie-bar front mounting nut to the specified torquethen refit the wheel trim.12 Refit the undertray.

11 Rear hub carrier - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, prise off the rearwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the rear of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the rear roadwheel andrelease the handbrake.

2 Refer to Chapter 9 if necessary, and undothe two bolts securing the brake calipercarrier bracket to the hub carrier.3 Undo the retaining bolt and release theflexible brake hose support bracket from theshock absorber strut.4 Withdraw the carrier bracket, complete withcaliper and brake pads, from the disc and hubcarrier. Tie the caliper assembly from aconvenient place under the wheelarch toavoid straining the brake hose.5 On cars equipped with ABS, withdraw therear wheel speed sensor and wiring harnessfrom the hub carrier, as described in Chapter 9.6 Undo the two screws and remove the brakedisc from the hub flange (see illustrations).7 Undo the nut and release the anti-roll barconnecting link from the suspension lowertransverse link (see illustration).8 Place a jack beneath the transverse link,and raise the link slightly.9 Undo the nut and remove the through-boltand washers securing the hub carrier to thetrailing link.10 Undo the nut and remove the boltsecuring the hub carrier to the transverse link.11 Undo the nut and clamp bolt securing theshock absorber strut to the hub carrier.12 Lower the jack slightly, and release thehub carrier from the shock absorber strut. Ifthe strut is tight, spread the slot in the hubcarrier with a screwdriver, and tap the carrierdown with a copper or plastic mallet.

13 Withdraw the hub carrier from thetransverse and trailing links, and remove itfrom the car.

Refitting14 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tightenall nuts and bolts to the specified torque, butdo not fully tighten the transverse and trailinglink retaining nuts until the weight of the car ison the roadwheels.

12 Rear hub bearing - renewal 3Note: A new hub flange retaining nut will berequired for reassembly.1 Remove the rear hub from the car asdescribed in the previous Section.2 Prise off the cover over the hub flangeretaining nut at the rear of the hub carrier,then secure the hub flange in a vice (seeillustration).3 Using a small punch or screwdriver, tap upthe staking, then unscrew the hub flangeretaining nut.4 Support the hub carrier in a vice, and tapthe hub flange out of the bearing (seeillustration).

Suspension and steering systems 10•9

11.6b . . . and remove the brake disc11.6a Undo the two screws (arrowed) . . .

12.4 Removing the hub flange from thebearing

12.2 Cover (1) and hub flange retaining nut (2) at the rear of the hub carrier

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

11.7 Rear hub carrier attachment details

1 Anti-roll bar connecting link nut2 Anti-roll bar connecting link3 Hub carrier-to-trailing link through bolt4 Hub carrier-to-transverse link retaining bolt5 Shock absorber clamp bolt

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5 Undo the four screws and remove the discshield.6 Extract the bearing retaining circlip, thensupport the hub carrier face-down on blocksor on a press bed. Using a tube or mandrel incontact with the edge of the outer bearing,drive or press the bearing out (seeillustrations).7 Fit the new bearing in the same way,ensuring that it is pressed fully home to theshoulder in the hub carrier. Keep the bearingsquare as it is fitted, otherwise it will jam, andcontinued pressure could cause the outerrace to crack. If the bearing does jam, tap orpress it out, remove any burrs in the bore ofthe carrier and try again.8 Secure the bearing with the circlip, thenrefit the disc shield.9 Tap the hub flange into the bearing and fit a

new retaining nut. Tighten the nut to thespecified torque, and secure by staking thenut flange into the groove in the hub. Tap onthe nut cover.10 Refit the hub carrier to the car asdescribed in the previous Section.

13 Rear shock absorber -removal and refitting 3

Note: The following procedures are applicableequally to cars with standard suspension orself-levelling damper units.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, prise off the rearwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack

10•10 Suspension and steering systems

12.6b . . . then remove the bearing fromthe hub using a mandrel

12.6a Extract the rear hub bearingretaining circlip (1) . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Connecting link retaining nut2 Anti-roll bar connecting link3 Trailing link retaining through

bolt4 Transverse link retaining bolt5 Shock absorber clamp bolt6 Upper mounting retaining nut7 Shock absorber8 Shock absorber spindle nut9 Upper mounting10 Bump-stop11 Dust cover

up the rear of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the rear roadwheel.2 Undo the retaining bolt and release theflexible brake hose support bracket from theshock absorber strut.3 Undo the nut and release the anti-roll barconnecting link from the suspension lowertransverse link (see illustration).4 Place a jack below the transverse link, andraise the link slightly.5 Undo the nut and remove the through-boltand washers securing the hub carrier to thetrailing link.6 Undo the nut and remove the bolt securingthe hub carrier to the transverse link.7 Undo the nut and clamp bolt securing theshock absorber strut to the hub carrier.8 Lower the jack slightly, and release the hubcarrier from the shock absorber strut. If thestrut is tight, spread the slot in the hub carrierwith a screwdriver, and tap the carrier downwith a copper or plastic mallet.9 From inside the luggage compartment,remove the trim as necessary to gain accessto the shock absorber upper mounting.10 Undo the three nuts securing the uppermounting to the body, and remove the shockabsorber from under the wheelarch.11 If the upper mounting is to be removed,undo the shock absorber spindle nut andwithdraw the upper mounting, followed by thebump-stop and dust cover.12 Examine the shock absorber for signs offluid leakage. Check the spindle for signs ofwear or pitting along its entire length, andcheck the shock absorber body for signs ofdamage or corrosion. Test the operation ofthe shock absorber, while holding it in anupright position, by moving the spindlethrough a full stroke, and then through shortstrokes of 50 to 100 mm. In both cases, theresistance felt should be smooth andcontinuous. If the resistance is jerky oruneven, or if there is any visible sign of wear,damage or fluid leakage, renewal isnecessary. Also check the condition of theupper mounting, bump-stop and dust cover,and renew any components as necessary.

Refitting13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tightenall nuts and bolts to the specified torque, butdo not fully tighten the transverse and trailinglink retaining nuts until the weight of the car ison the roadwheels.

14 Rear coil spring - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Refer to Section 13 and carry out theoperations described in paragraphs 1 to 6inclusive, with the exception of paragraph 2.2 Ease the hub carrier away from the trailinglink, and move the trailing link end clear asmuch as possible.13.3 Rear shock absorber attachment details

Page 181: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

3 Lower the jack slowly and carefully torelease the tension on the coil spring.4 When all the tension is released, withdrawthe spring from its location, and recover theupper and lower spring seats. Note the fittedposition of the lower seat in the transverse linkas it is removed.5 Examine the spring carefully for signs ofdistortion or damage. The spring free lengthcan only be assessed by comparing it with anew item, and this should be done if thespring is suspect. Renew the spring ifnecessary, ideally in pairs (both sides). Alsocheck the condition of the upper and lowerspring seats, and renew any components asnecessary.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensurethat the tang on the lower spring seatengages with the slot in the transverse link.Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque, but do not fully tighten the transverseand trailing link retaining nuts until the weightof the car is on the roadwheels.

15 Transverse link - removal and refitting 4

Removal1 Remove the rear coil spring as described inthe previous Section.2 Undo the nut and remove the transverselink inner mounting bolt (see illustration).3 Ease the link away from its inner location,and remove it from under the car.4 If the transverse link inner mounting bushrequires renewal, a hydraulic press andmandrels will be needed to replace the bush.If this equipment is not available, have thework carried out by a Rover dealer or suitably-equipped garage. A similar procedure mustbe used for renewal of the outer bush, whichis located in the hub carrier, after removal ofthis component from the car (see Section 11).

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not

fully tighten the inner mounting nut until theweight of the car is on the roadwheels.

16 Trailing link - removal and refitting 4

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, prise off the rearwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the rear of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the rear roadwheel2 Undo the trailing link front mounting nutand remove the outer washer and bush (seeillustration).3 Undo the nut and remove the through-boltand washers securing the trailing link to thehub carrier.4 Ease the link away from the hub carrier,withdraw the front mounting from its locationand remove the link from under the car.5 Withdraw the front mounting inner bushand washer, and the two rear mountingbushes.6 If the adjustment plate is to be removed,first mark the position of the forward eccentricbolt in relation to the plate, so that anapproximate rear wheel toe setting can beobtained on reassembly. Undo the nuts,remove the retaining bolt and eccentric bolt,then withdraw the adjustment plate from thetrailing link.7 Examine all the mounting bushes for

damage, deformation or swelling of therubber, and check the remaining componentsfor damage or distortion. Renew any parts asnecessary.

Refitting8 Refit the adjustment plate to the link, andsecure with the retaining and adjustment boltsand nuts. Before fully tightening the nuts, setthe eccentric adjustment bolt in the positionmarked before removal.9 The remainder of the refitting procedure is areversal of removal. Do not fully tighten thetrailing link-to-hub carrier through-bolt untilthe weight of the car is on the roadwheels.10 On completion, have the rear wheelalignment checked and if necessary adjusted(see Section 28).

17 Rear anti-roll bar - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Apply the handbrake, prise off the rearwheel trims and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the rear of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the rear roadwheels.2 Undo the single nut each side securing theanti-roll bar connecting links to the rearsuspension transverse links.3 Undo the two bolts each side securing theanti-roll bar mounting brackets to the chassis

Suspension and steering systems 10•11

16.2 Trailing link components and attachments

15.2 Transverse link inner mounting bolt(arrowed)

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Front mounting nut2 Outer washer3 Outer bush4 Trailing link through-bolt5 Washer6 Bush7 Trailing link8 Inner bush9 Inner washer

10 Adjustmentplate retaining bolt

11 Eccentric bolt12 Eccentric washer13 Adjustment plate

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members, and remove the bar from under thecar (see illustration).4 If required, the connecting links can beremoved after undoing the retaining nut oneach side.5 Check the condition of the connecting linkbushes and the anti-roll bar mounting bushes,and renew any that show signs ofdeterioration. The mounting bushes are slitalong their length to allow removal andrefitting over the bar.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tightenthe mounting and connecting link bushes tothe specified torque only with the weight ofthe car on its roadwheels.

18 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 3

Models without airbagsupplementary restraint system

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Set the front wheels in the straight-aheadposition.3 On early models, carefully prise off the

steering wheel pad, disconnect the two hornswitch leads and remove the pad (seeillustrations).4 On later models, undo the two screws atthe rear of the steering wheel and lift off thesteering wheel pad.5 On models equipped with cruise control,disconnect the cruise control switch multiplugfrom the rotary coupler wiring harness.6 With an assistant holding the wheel, undoand remove the centre retaining nut using asocket and bar (see illustration).7 Mark the steering wheel and column shaftin relation to each other, and withdraw thewheel from the shaft splines.

Refitting8 Before refitting, check that the wheels arestill in the straight-ahead position and, whereapplicable, turn the direction indicatorcancelling bush so that the slot is pointingupwards (see illustration).9 Engage the steering wheel over the shaftsplines, ensuring that the previously-mademarks are aligned, and make sure that the lugon the wheel boss engages with the slot in thedirection indicator cancelling bush (seeillustration).10 On models equipped with cruise control,ensure that the rotary coupler lugs engagewith the steering wheel slots.11 Refit the retaining nut and tighten it to thespecified torque while your assistant holds thewheel.

12 Reconnect the horn switch wires (earlymodels) and refit the steering wheel pad.13 Reconnect the battery.

Models with airbagsupplementary restraint system

Warning: Handle the airbag unitwith extreme care as aprecaution against personalinjury, and always hold it with

the cover facing away from the body. If indoubt concerning any proposed workinvolving the airbag unit or its controlcircuitry, consult a Rover dealer or otherqualified specialist.

Removal14 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead first, followed by the positive lead (referto Chapter 5, Section 1).

Warning: Before proceeding,wait a minimum of 20 minutes,as a precaution againstaccidental firing of the airbag

unit. This period ensures that any storedenergy in the back-up capacitor isdissipated.

15 Release the four turnbuckles and lift offthe fusebox cover below the steering column.16 Disconnect the airbag wiring multiplugfrom the steering column wiring harness at thebase of the column.17 Using a Torx type socket bit, unscrew the

10•12 Suspension and steering systems

18.9 Ensure that the lug on the steeringwheel boss (A) engages the cancelling

bush slots (B)

18.8 Position the direction indicatorcancelling bush with the slot pointing

upwards

18.6 Undo the steering wheel retaining nut

18.3b . . . and disconnect the two hornswitch leads

18.3a Prise off the steering wheel pad . . .17.3 Anti-roll bar right-hand side mountingbracket

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Page 183: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

two airbag module retaining screws from therear of the steering wheel (see illustration).18 Lift the airbag module off the steeringwheel, disconnect the multiplug from the rearof the module and remove the module fromthe vehicle.

Warning: Position the airbagunit in a safe place, with themechanism facing downwardsas a precaution againstaccidental operation.

Warning: Do not attempt toopen or repair the airbag unit, orapply any electrical current to it.Do not use any airbag which is

visibly damaged or which has beentampered with.19 Set the front wheels in the straight-aheadposition.20 On models equipped with cruise control,disconnect the cruise control switch multiplugfrom the rotary coupler wiring harness andrelease the harness from the steering wheelclip.21 With an assistant holding the wheel, undoand remove the centre retaining nut using asocket and bar.22 Mark the steering wheel and column shaftin relation to each other, and withdraw thewheel from the shaft splines.23 On models with cruise control, feed thewiring harness through the hole in the steeringwheel as it is withdrawn.

Refitting24 Check that the front wheels are still in thestraight-ahead position, then engage thesteering wheel over the shaft splines, while atthe same time feeding the wiring harnessthrough the hole in the wheel. Ensure that thepreviously-made marks are aligned, and thatthe rotary coupler lugs engage with thesteering wheel slots.25 Refit the retaining nut and tighten it to the

specified torque while your assistant holds thewheel.27 Reconnect the cruise control wiring(where applicable).28 Reconnect the wiring multiplug to the rearof the airbag module with the harness pointingdownward.29 Locate the airbag module on the steeringwheel and secure with the two retainingscrews.30 Reconnect the airbag wiring multiplug tothe steering column wiring harness and refitthe fusebox cover.31 Reconnect the battery.

19 Rotary coupler - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 A rotary coupler is fitted between thesteering wheel and steering columnmultifunction switch on vehicles equippedwith an airbag supplementary restraint systemand/or cruise control.2 Remove the steering wheel as described inSection 18.3 From inside the car, release the turnbucklesand lift out the trim panels over the clutch,brake and accelerator pedals.4 Release the rake lock on the side of thesteering column, and move the column to itslowest position.5 Undo the single upper screw and the threelower screws, and remove the upper andlower steering column shrouds.6 Disconnect the rotary coupler multiplugfrom the steering column wiring harness (seeillustration). On models equipped with anairbag, release the airbag wiring harnessconnector from the steering column bracket

and remove the harness cable ties from thecolumn.7 Ensure that the front roadwheels are in thestraight-ahead position then release the twoplastic clips and withdraw the coupler fromthe steering column multifunction switch.Note: The rotary coupler must not be turnedwhilst it is removed. To prevent rotation of thetwo coupler halves, place a piece of adhesivetape around the moulding as shown (seeillustration). Store the coupler in a plastic bagafter removal as an added precaution againstrotation or damage.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal bearing inmind the following points:(a) If a new rotary coupler is being fitted it will

be supplied with sealing tape around themoulding to prevent rotation of thecoupler halves. Do not use the coupler ifthe sealing tape is broken.

(b) If the original rotary coupler is beingrefitted, remove the previously appliedadhesive tape before positioning the uniton the steering column.

(c) Use new cable ties to secure the wiringharness to the steering column.

(d) Refit the steering wheel as described inSection 18.

20 Steering column lock -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the steering wheel as described inSection 18.2 From inside the car, release the turnbucklesand lift out the trim panels over the clutch,brake and accelerator pedals.3 Release the rake lock on the side of the

Suspension and steering systems 10•13

19.7 After removal, secure the two halvesof the rotary coupler to prevent rotation,

using adhesive tape applied to position (A)

19.6 Rotary coupler connections onmodels with airbag supplementary

restraint system and/or cruise control

10 Rotary coupler multiplug11 Plastic retaining clips12 Rotary coupler

18.17 Unscrew the two retaining screws (5) securing the airbag (6) to the

steering wheel

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Page 184: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

steering column, and move the column to itslowest position (see illustration).4 Undo the single upper screw and the threelower screws, and remove the upper andlower steering column shrouds.5 Undo the two nuts and remove the washersfrom the steering column upper mounting.6 Undo the two bolts and remove themounting strap from the column lowermounting. Lower the column slightly, andsupport it in this position.7 Disconnect the two ignition switch wiringmultiplugs from the fusebox.8 Centre-punch the steering column lock

shear-bolts, then drill off the bolt heads.9 Remove the lock saddle, then withdraw thelock from the column.10 With the lock removed, unscrew theshear-bolt studs with a self-locking wrench ora pair of grips on the protruding bolt ends.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, buttighten all the mounting bolts and nuts to thespecified torque. Use new shear-bolts tosecure the lock, and tighten them until theheads shear off, but check the operation ofthe lock before doing this.

21 Steering column - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the steering wheel and, wherefitted, the rotary coupler as described inSections 18 and 19 respectively.3 From inside the car, release the turnbucklesand lift out the trim panels over the clutch,brake and accelerator pedals (seeillustrations).4 Release the rake lock on the side of thesteering column, and move the column to itslowest position.5 Undo the single upper screw and the threelower screws, and remove the upper andlower steering column shrouds.6 At the base of the steering column, releasethe two retaining clips and slide the cover upover the column shaft universal joint (seeillustration).7 Move the carpets aside to gain access tothe floor-mounted cover plate.8 Prise out the retaining studs to release thecover plate and gasket from the floor.9 Undo the clamp bolt securing the universaljoint to the steering gear pinion.10 Undo the two nuts and remove thewashers from the steering column uppermounting (see illustration).11 Undo the two bolts and remove themounting strap from the column lowermounting (see illustration). Lower the columnslightly, and support it in this position.12 Release the flasher unit from its bracketabove the fusebox.13 Disconnect the two ignition switch wiringmultiplugs from the fusebox and, whereapplicable, the additional multiplugs at thebase of the column. Release the multiplugsand wiring from the column brackets asnecessary.14 Lift the column assembly upwards todisengage the universal joint from the steeringgear pinion, then remove the column from thecar.15 If the universal joint is to be removed,mark the joint in relation to the column shaft.Undo the clamp bolt and slide the joint off theshaft.

Refitting16 Before refitting the column, set the roadwheels to the straight-ahead position.17 Refit the universal joint to the columnshaft (if previously removed), ensuring that themarks made during removal are aligned.18 Engage the universal joint with thesteering gear pinion, and push it fully home.19 Reconnect the wiring multiplugs and refitthe flasher unit.

10•14 Suspension and steering systems

21.3b . . . and lower trim panel over thepedals

21.3a Remove the upper trim panel . . .

20.3 Steering column lock attachments

1 Steering column rake lock2 Upper shroud retaining screw3 Lower shroud retaining screws4 Column upper mounting nut and washer5 Column lower mounting bolts

6 Ignition switch wiring multiplug7 Additional switch lead8 Shear bolt9 Lock saddle

10 Steering column lock

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Page 185: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

20 Refit the column mountings, and tightenthe nuts and bolts to the specified torque.21 Tighten the universal joint clamp bolt.22 Refit the cover plate and gasket, followedby the universal joint cover.23 Refit the steering column shrouds and thetrim panels.24 Refit the rotary coupler (where applicable)and steering wheel as described in Sections19 and 18, then reconnect the battery.

22 Steering track rod - removal and refitting 4

Removal1 Apply the handbrake, remove the frontwheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the front of the car and support it on axle

stands. Remove the front roadwheel.2 Slacken the track rod retaining locknut by aquarter of a turn (see illustration).3 Extract the split pin, then unscrew the nutsecuring the track rod balljoint to the steeringknuckle arm (see illustration).4 Using a universal balljoint separator tool,release the tapered ball-pin from the arm (seeillustration).5 Engage a spanner over the flats on theinner track rod that protrudes from the rubbergaiter, then unscrew the steering track rodand outer balljoint assembly.

Refitting6 Fit the new track rod by screwing it on tothe inner track rod until it contacts thelocknut.

Suspension and steering systems 10•15

21.10 Steering column upper mounting nut(arrowed)

21.11 Steering column lower mountingbolt (arrowed)

22.4 Using a universal balljoint separatortool to release the track rod balljoint

22.3 Extract the split pin and remove thetrack rod retaining nut (arrowed)

22.2 Steering track rod retaining locknut(arrowed)

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

21.6 Steering column attachments and components

1 Universal jointcover retainingclip

2 Universal jointcover

3 Cover plateretaining studs

4 Cover plate5 Gasket6 Universal joint

clamp bolt7 Column upper

mounting nuts8 Column lower

mounting bolts9 Flasher unit10 Main wiring

multiplug11 Main relay

harnessmultiplug

12 Universal jointclamp bolt

13 Universal joint

Page 186: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

7 Insert the balljoint into the steering knucklearm and refit the retaining nut. Tighten the nutto the specified torque, then tighten it further,slightly, to align the next split pin hole. Securethe nut with a new split pin.8 Tighten the track rod retaining locknutsecurely, refit the roadwheel and lower the carto the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts and refitthe wheel trim.9 Check the front wheel alignment asdescribed in Section 28.

23 Steering gear rubber gaiter -renewal 4

Removal1 Remove the steering track rod as describedin the previous Section.2 Count and record the number of exposedthreads from the end of the inner track rod to thelocknut, then unscrew and remove the locknut.3 Release the rubber gaiter retaining clips,remove the transfer tube (V6 engine models)and withdraw the gaiter from the steering gearand inner track rod.

Refitting4 Slide the new gaiter into position andsecure it with new retaining clips. Whereapplicable, refit the transfer tube.5 Refit the locknut to the inner track rod, andposition it so that the same number of threadsare exposed as counted on removal.6 Refit the steering track rod as described inthe previous Section.

24 Steering gear - removal and refitting 4

4-cylinder engine models

Removal1 From inside the car, release the tworetaining clips and slide up the cover over theuniversal joint at the base of the steeringcolumn (see illustration 21.6).

2 Move the carpets aside to gain access tothe floor-mounted cover plate.3 Prise out the retaining studs to release thecover plate and gasket from the floor.4 Undo the clamp bolt securing the universaljoint to the steering gear pinion.5 Apply the handbrake, remove the frontwheel trims and slacken the wheel nuts. Jackup the front of the car and support it on axlestands. Remove the front roadwheels.6 Remove the exhaust front pipes asdescribed in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.7 Extract the split pins, then unscrew the nutssecuring each track rod balljoint to thesteering knuckle arm.8 Using a universal balljoint separator tool,release the balljoint tapered ball-pins from thearms.9 Position a suitable container beneath thepinion end of the steering gear.10 Wipe clean the area around the fluid pipeunions, then unscrew the two rearward-facingunion nuts on the pinion housing (seeillustration). Allow the power steering fluid todrain into the container.11 Remove the two O-ring seals from thedisconnected pipes, then plug or tape overthe pipe ends and orifices.12 Undo the two bolts each side securing thesteering gear to the chassis members, andremove the mounting brackets (seeillustrations).13 Lower the steering gear to release thepinion from the column universal joint, thenmanipulate the assembly sideways and outthrough the wheelarch.14 Check the condition of the rubbermountings, and renew them if there is anysign of deterioration or swelling of the rubber.

Refitting15 Refitting the steering gear is a reversal ofremoval, bearing in mind the following points:(a) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the

specified torque.(b) Use new O-ring seals on the pipe unions,

and new split pins on the balljointretaining nuts.

(c) Fill the system with fresh fluid, and bleed thesteering gear as described in Section 25.

(d) If necessary, reposition the steering wheel

so that the spokes are horizontal when thesteering gear is in the straight-aheadposition (see Section 18).

V6 engine modelsRemoval16 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to8 above.17 Undo the bolts securing the longitudinalsupport member to the underbody beneaththe engine and remove the member.18 Engage a spanner over the flats on theleft-hand inner track rod that protrudes fromthe rubber gaiter, then unscrew the steeringtrack rod and outer balljoint assembly.Remove the right-hand steering track rod inthe same way.19 Undo the four bolts and remove the coverplate from below the pinion end of thesteering gear.20 Position a suitable container beneath thesteering gear fluid pipes.21 Wipe clean the area around the fluid pipeunions, then unscrew the four union nuts onthe pinion housing. Allow the power steeringfluid to drain into the container.22 Plug or tape over the disconnected pipeends and orifices to prevent dirt entry.23 Undo the two bolts each side securing thesteering gear to the chassis members, andremove the mounting brackets.24 Lower the steering gear to release thepinion from the column universal joint, thenmanipulate the assembly sideways and outthrough the wheelarch.25 Check the condition of the rubbermountings, and renew them if there is anysign of deterioration or swelling of the rubber.Refitting26 Refitting the steering gear is a reversal ofremoval, bearing in mind the following points:(a) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the

specified torque.(b) Use new split pins on the balljoint

retaining nuts.(c) Fill the system with fresh fluid, and bleed the

steering gear as described in Section 25.(d) If necessary, reposition the steering wheel

so that the spokes are horizontal when thesteering gear is in the straight-aheadposition (see Section 18).

10•16 Suspension and steering systems

24.12b . . . and left-hand mounting bracketbolts (arrowed)

24.12a Steering gear right-hand mountingbracket bolts (arrowed) . . .

24.10 Unscrew the two fluid pipe unionnuts (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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25 Power steering gear -bleeding 1

1 Remove the filler cap on the power steeringfluid reservoir, and fill the reservoir with thespecified fluid until the level is up to the MAXmark on the cap dipstick.2 Disconnect the HT lead from the centre ofthe ignition coil.3 Crank the engine on the starter motor forfive seconds to prime the power steeringpump.4 Top up the reservoir, then crank the engineagain for a further five seconds.5 Turn the steering onto full right-hand lock,and crank the engine for five seconds.6 Turn the steering onto full left-hand lock,top up the reservoir, and reconnect the HTlead to the coil.7 Start the engine and run it forapproximately two minutes. During this time,turn the steering wheel one turn each way.8 With the engine stopped, check thecondition of the power steering fluid. If it isaerated, leave it until clear. Once the fluid isclear, top up the reservoir, start the engineagain and run it for a further two minutes.During this time, turn the steering wheel oneturn each way as before.

9 Stop the engine, make a final check of thefluid level and top up if necessary, then refitthe filler cap.

26 Power steering pump -removal and refitting 1

4-cylinder engine models withrear-mounted, camshaft-drivenpump

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.3 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 andremove the air cleaner assembly.4 Slacken the hose clips and disconnect theheater bypass hose from the thermostathousing, and the radiator bottom hose fromthe main coolant pipe below the distributor.5 Undo the bolts securing the heater pipe andcoolant pipe to their support brackets, andmove the pipe and hose assembly away fromthe vicinity of the power steering pump as faras possible.6 Undo the retaining screw and remove thecover over the camshaft pulley.7 Slacken the centre retaining nut on thedrivebelt tensioner wheel, then turn thetension adjuster clockwise until the bolt isslack (see illustration).8 Using a socket and bar, unscrew and

remove the power steering pump pulleyretaining nut (see illustration). To prevent thepulley turning as the nut is undone, engage alarge screwdriver with one of the slots on thepulley, rest the screwdriver over the socket,and apply clockwise leverage to thescrewdriver.9 Withdraw the pulley and drivebelt from thepump (see illustration). Use two screwdriversto lever off the pulley if it is tight.10 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front ofthe car and support it on axle stands.11 Undo the bolts securing the longitudinalsupport member to the underbody beneaththe engine and remove the member.12 Position a suitable container beneath theengine, below the power steering pump.13 Wipe clean the area around the pipe andhose unions at the rear of the pump.14 Unscrew the union nut and slacken the hoseclip, then disconnect the high pressure pipe andreturn hose from the pump (see illustration).Allow the power steering fluid to drain into thecontainer. Plug or tape over the disconnectedunions when the fluid has drained.15 Undo the four power steering pumpretaining bolts, and remove the pump fromunder the car (see illustration).

Refitting16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points:(a) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the

specified torque.(b) Refit and tension the drivebelt as

described in Chapter 1.(c) Bleed the power steering gear as

described in Section 25.(d) Refill the cooling system and refit the air

cleaner as described in Chapters 1 and 4respectively.

4-cylinder engine models withfront-mounted, crankshaft-driven pump

Removal17 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt asdescribed in Chapter 1.18 On later models, refer to Chapter 5 andremove the alternator if access to the pumpmounting bolts is limited.

Suspension and steering systems 10•17

26.9 Withdraw the pulley and drivebeltfrom the pump

26.8 Unscrew the pump pulley retainingnut

26.7 Slacken the tensioner wheel retainingnut

26.15 Undo the four pump retaining bolts

26.14 Fluid pipe connections at the rear-mounted power steering pump

1 High pressure pipe union2 Return hose clip3 Return hose4 Power steering pump

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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19 On models with air conditioning, removethe heat shield (where fitted) from the rear ofthe pump.20 Position a suitable container beneath theengine, below the power steering pump.

21 Wipe clean the area around the pipe andhose unions at the rear of the pump.22 Unscrew the union nut and slacken thehose clip, then disconnect the high pressurepipe and return hose from the pump (seeillustration). Allow the power steering fluid todrain into the container. Plug or tape over thedisconnected unions when the fluid hasdrained.23 Undo the three bolts and remove thepower steering pump pulley.24 Undo the four bolts (early version) or fivebolts (later version) securing the pump to itsmounting bracket. Slide the pump out of thebracket, and remove it from under the car.

Refitting25 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points:(a) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the

specified torque.

(b) Refit and tension the drivebelt asdescribed in Chapter 1.

(c) Bleed the power steering gear asdescribed in Section 25.

V6 engine models

Removal26 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).27 Undo the three bolts or nuts securing thepower steering pump and alternator pulleycovers to the top of the engine. Move thepipes and cables clear and lift off the covers(see illustrations).28 Wipe clean the area around the pipe andhose unions on the top of the pump.29 Place absorbent rags around the powersteering pump and be prepared for fluidspillage.30 Undo the two bolts securing the highpressure pipe connector, lift off the connectorand recover the O-ring (see illustration).31 Slacken the hose clip, then disconnect thereturn hose from the pump. Plug or tape overthe disconnected unions to prevent dirt entry.32 Slacken the pump adjusting nut andmounting bolt, push the pump down and slipthe drivebelt off the pump pulley (seeillustrations).33 Remove the mounting bolt and adjustingnut and lift the pump off the engine.

10•18 Suspension and steering systems

26.30 High pressure pipe connector (A)and return hose connection (B) at the

power steering pump26.27d . . . and lift off the two covers26.27c . . . and cover clips . . .

26.27b . . . release the pipes and cablesfrom the support brackets . . .

26.27a Undo the three nuts/bolts(arrowed) securing the pulley covers to the

top of the engine . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 High pressurepipe

2 Return hose clip3 Return hose4 Pulley retaining

bolts

5 Drivebelt6 Pulley7 Pump retaining

bolts8 Power steering

pump

26.22 Power steering pump attachments on 4-cylinder engine models with frontmounted pump (early version shown, later version similar)

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Refitting34 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points:(a) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the

specified torque.(b) Use a new O-ring on the high pressure

pipe connector.(c) Refit and tension the drivebelt as

described in Chapter 1.(c) Bleed the power steering gear as

described in Section 25.

27 Power steering fluid cooler -removal and refitting 1

4-cylinder engine models

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the front bumper as described inChapter 11.3 Position a suitable container beneath theengine, below the power steering fluidreservoir and place absorbent rags under thereservoir.4 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect thefluid cooler hose at the reservoir. Plug thedisconnected unions quickly to minimise fluidspillage.5 Locate the remaining hose-to-pipeconnectors and release the hose clips ordisconnect the pipe connectors as applicable.6 Undo the two fluid cooler retaining nuts andremove the cooler.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleed thepower steering gear as described in Sec-tion 25 on completion.

V6 engine models

Removal8 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).9 Remove the side lights and the right-handheadlight as described in Chapter 12. On early

models, remove the radiator grille asdescribed in Chapter 11.10 Position a suitable container beneath thefront of the car, below the fluid cooler unions.11 Slacken the hose clips and disconnect thefour fluid cooler hose connections, two ateach end of the cooler. Plug the disconnectedunions quickly to minimise fluid spillage.12 Undo the two fluid cooler retaining nutsand remove the cooler.

Refitting13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleedthe power steering gear as described inSection 25 on completion.

28 Wheel alignment andsteering angles - generalinformation

41 Accurate front wheel alignment is essentialto provide positive steering and preventexcessive tyre wear. Before considering thesteering/suspension geometry, check that thetyres are correctly inflated, that the frontwheels are not buckled, and that the steeringlinkage and suspension joints are in goodorder, without slackness or wear.2 Wheel alignment consists of four factors(see illustration):

Camber is the angle at which the frontwheels are set from the vertical when viewedfrom the front of the vehicle. “Positivecamber” is the amount (in degrees) that thewheels are tilted outward at the top from thevertical.

Castor is the angle between the steeringaxis and a vertical line when viewed from eachside of the car. “Positive castor” is when thesteering axis is inclined rearward at the top.

Steering axis inclination is the angle (whenviewed from the front of the vehicle) betweenthe vertical and an imaginary line drawnthrough the steering knuckle upper and lowerballjoints.

Toe setting is the amount by which thedistance between the front inside edges of theroadwheels (measured at hub height) differsfrom the diametrically opposite distancemeasured between the rear inside edges ofthe front roadwheels.

3 With the exception of the front and rear toesetting, all other suspension and steeringangles are set during manufacture and noadjustment is possible. It can be assumed,therefore, that unless the vehicle has sufferedaccident damage all the preset angles will becorrect. Should there be some doubt abouttheir accuracy it will be necessary to seek thehelp of a Rover dealer, as special gauges areneeded to accurately check the suspensionand steering angles.4 The front and rear toe settings areadjustable, and two methods are available tothe home mechanic for doing this. Onemethod is to use a gauge to measure thedistance between the front and rear inside

Suspension and steering systems 10•19

28.2 Wheel alignment and steering anglemeasurements

26.32b . . . and mounting bolt (arrowed)26.32a Power steering pump adjusting nut(arrowed) . . .

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

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edges of the roadwheels. The other method isto use a scuff plate, in which the roadwheel isrolled across a movable plate which recordsany deviation, or scuff, of the tyre relative tothe straight-ahead position, as it movesacross the plate. Relatively inexpensiveequipment of both types is available fromaccessory outlets to enable these checks, andsubsequent adjustments, to be carried out athome.

Toe setting - checking andadjusting

Front wheel toe setting5 With the car on level ground and thesteering in the straight-ahead position,bounce the front and rear to settle thesuspension, then push the car backwardsthen forwards. Follow the equipmentmanufacturer’s instructions according to theequipment being used, and check the toesetting.6 If adjustment is required, slacken thesteering track rod locknuts on both sides, andrelease the rubber gaiter retaining clips (seeillustration).7 Using a spanner engaged with the flat onthe inner track rod, turn both track rods, byequal amounts clockwise to increase the toe-in, or anti-clockwise to increase the toe-out.Push the car forwards, then recheck thesetting. If a gauge is being used, take threereadings, at 120º intervals around the wheel,

pushing the car forward a little each time. Usethe mean average of the three readings as thesetting.8 Repeat this procedure until the setting is asspecified, then tighten the track rod locknutsand refit the gaiter clips. Ensure that thegaiters are not twisted.

Rear wheel toe setting9 With the car on level ground and thesteering in the straight-ahead position,bounce the front and rear to settle thesuspension, then push the car backwardsthen forwards. Follow the equipmentmanufacturer’s instructions according to theequipment being used, and check the toesetting.10 If adjustment is required, slacken theadjustment plate-to-trailing link retaining bolt

locknut, and the eccentric bolt locknut oneach side (see illustration).11 Turn both eccentric bolts, by equalamounts in whichever direction is necessary,then tighten the locknuts and recheck the toesetting.12 If a gauge is being used, take threereadings, at 120º intervals around the wheel,pushing the car forward a little each time. Usethe mean average of the three readings as thesetting.13 Repeat this procedure until the setting isas specified, then fully tighten the retainingbolt and eccentric bolt locknuts to thespecified torque.

10•20 Suspension and steering systems

28.6 Steering track rod locknut (A) andgaiter clip (B)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

28.10 Rear wheel toe setting adjustmentpoints

1 Adjustment plate retaining bolt locknut2 Eccentric bolt locknut3 Eccentric bolt

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

11Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftBonnet hinge bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Boot lid hinge bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Door hinge-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Door hinge-to-door bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Front seat retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 23Seat belt retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 23Bumper retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings

Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Bonnet lock and release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 7Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Boot lid private lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Boot lid/tailgate and fuel filler flap release control - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Boot lid/tailgate lock solenoid - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 18Boot lid/tailgate release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 12Boot lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47Door, boot, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication . .See Chapter 1Facia - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48Front door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Front door cassette assembly (Coupe models) - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Front door exterior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Front door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Front door interior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Front door lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Front door mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31Front door private lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Front door window cable and drum assembly (Coupe models) -

removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Front door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27Front door window lift motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Front seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Fuel filler flap release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Rear door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33Rear door exterior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Rear door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Rear door interior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Rear door lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35Rear door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37Rear door window lift manual regulator - removal and refitting . . . . 39Rear door window lift motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Rear quarter light glass (Coupe models) - removal and refitting . . . 40Rear seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43Rear seat squab release lever and cable - removal and refitting . . . 44Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Sunroof - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46Tailgate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Tailgate lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Tailgate private lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Tailgate support strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Windscreen, rear window and tailgate glass - removal and refitting 20

11•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

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1 General information

1 The bodyshell and underframe is of all-steelwelded construction, and is of computer-originated design. The assembly and weldingof the main body unit is completed entirely bycomputer-controlled robots, and the finishedunit is checked for dimensional accuracyusing computer and laser technology. Inaccordance with current practice, thebodyshell incorporates computer-calculatedimpact crumple zones at the front and rear,with a centre safety cell passengercompartment. During manufacture the body isdip-primed, fully sealed and undercoated,then painted with multi-layered base and topcoats.

Interior equipment electroniccontrol unit recalibration2 Many of the vehicles covered by thismanual are equipped with sophisticatedinterior electrical systems utilising electroniccontrol units (ECU’s) for their operation.Whenever the battery is disconnected andreconnected, some of these systems will notwork properly until a recalibration procedureis carried out to restore the values lost fromthe ECU memories. The systems affected andthe recalibration procedure is as follows.

Windows and sun roof3 Operation of the windows and sun roof willbe accompanied by a repetitive warning“bleep” and the “one-touch” function and“back-off” function will not operate.4 To restore correct operation, fully open thedriver’s door window, in one continuousoperation, using the controls on the driver’sdoor. When the window is open fully, hold theswitch in the “on” position until the warningbleep stops sounding.5 Now shut the window, in one continuousoperation, and holding the switch in the “on”position as before, until the warning bleepstops.6 Repeat the above operations on all theother windows.7 Fully open and then shut the sun roof,holding the switch in the “on” position at theend of each movement, until the warningbleep stops.8 Full operation of the electric windows andsun roof should now be restored. If not, repeatthe recalibration sequence.

Lazy locking9 The lazy locking function will not operateand instead, a warning “bleep” will sound. Fulloperation will be restored by carrying out theprocedures for the window and sun roofmemories, as described above.

Seat and mirror positions10 All the preset positions contained in theseat and mirror position memories will be lost.

Re-enter and save new positions using thesame procedure as for the original positions.

Radio cassette and CD player11 The words “CODE” or “ROVER-C” willappear on the digital display and the set willnot operate. Re-enter the security code asdescribed in the Rover in-car entertainmentbooklet.

2 Maintenance - bodywork and underframe 1

The general condition of a vehicle’sbodywork is the one thing that significantlyaffects its value. Maintenance is easy, butneeds to be regular. Neglect, particularly afterminor damage, can lead quickly to furtherdeterioration and costly repair bills. It isimportant also to keep watch on those parts ofthe vehicle not immediately visible, for instancethe underside, inside all the wheel arches, andthe lower part of the engine compartment.

The basic maintenance routine for thebodywork is washing - preferably with a lot ofwater, from a hose. This will remove all theloose solids which may have stuck to thevehicle. It is important to flush these off insuch a way as to prevent grit from scratchingthe finish. The wheel arches and underframeneed washing in the same way, to remove anyaccumulated mud, which will retain moistureand tend to encourage rust. Paradoxicallyenough, the best time to clean the underframeand wheel arches is in wet weather, when themud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wetweather, the underframe is usually cleaned oflarge accumulations automatically, and this isa good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coating, it is agood idea to have the whole of theunderframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,engine compartment included, so that athorough inspection can be carried out to seewhat minor repairs and renovations arenecessary. Steam-cleaning is available atmany garages, and is necessary for theremoval of the accumulation of oily grime,which sometimes is allowed to become thickin certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities arenot available, there are some excellent greasesolvents available which can be brush-applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.Note that these methods should not be usedon vehicles with wax-based underbodyprotective coating, or the coating will beremoved. Such vehicles should be inspectedannually, preferably just prior to Winter, whenthe underbody should be washed down, andany damage to the wax coating repaired.Ideally, a completely fresh coat should beapplied. It would also be worth consideringthe use of such wax-based protection forinjection into door panels, sills, box sections,etc, as an additional safeguard against rust

damage, where such protection is notprovided by the vehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with achamois leather to give an unspotted clearfinish. A coat of clear protective wax polish willgive added protection against chemicalpollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen hasdulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polishercombination to restore the brilliance of theshine. This requires a little effort, but suchdulling is usually caused because regularwashing has been neglected. Care needs to betaken with metallic paintwork, as special non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoiddamage to the finish. Always check that thedoor and ventilator opening drain holes andpipes are completely clear, so that water canbe drained out. Brightwork should be treated inthe same way as paintwork. Windscreens andwindows can be kept clear of the smeary filmwhich often appears, by the use of proprietaryglass cleaner. Never use any form of wax orother body or chromium polish on glass.

3 Maintenance - upholstery and carpets 1

Mats and carpets should be brushed orvacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free ofgrit. If they are badly stained, remove themfrom the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging, andmake quite sure they are dry before refitting.Seats and interior trim panels can be keptclean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they dobecome stained (which can be more apparenton light-coloured upholstery), use a little liquiddetergent and a soft nail brush to scour thegrime out of the grain of the material. Do notforget to keep the headlining clean in the sameway as the upholstery. When using liquidcleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-wet thesurfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp couldget into the seams and padded interior,causing stains, offensive odours or even rot.

4 Minor body damage - repair 3

Note: For more detailed information aboutbodywork repair, Haynes Publishing producea book by Lindsay Porter called “The CarBodywork Repair Manual”. This incorporatesinformation on such aspects as rust treatment,painting and glass-fibre repairs, as well asdetails on more ambitious repairs involvingwelding and panel beating.

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

If the inside of the vehiclegets wet accidentally, it isworthwhile taking sometrouble to dry it out properly,

particularly where carpets are involved.Do not leave oil or electric heatersinside the vehicle for this purpose.

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Repairs of minor scratches inbodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and doesnot penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area ofthe scratch with a paintwork renovator, or avery fine cutting paste, to remove loose paintfrom the scratch, and to clear the surroundingbodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area withclean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using afine paint brush; continue to apply fine layersof paint until the surface of the paint in thescratch is level with the surroundingpaintwork. Allow the new paint at least twoweeks to harden, then blend it into thesurrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratcharea with a paintwork renovator or a very finecutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated rightthrough to the metal of the bodywork, causingthe metal to rust, a different repair techniqueis required. Remove any loose rust from thebottom of the scratch with a penknife, thenapply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent theformation of rust in the future. Using a rubberor nylon applicator, fill the scratch withbodystopper paste. If required, this paste canbe mixed with cellulose thinners to provide avery thin paste which is ideal for filling narrowscratches. Before the stopper-paste in thescratch hardens, wrap a piece of smoothcotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip thefinger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweepit across the surface of the stopper-paste inthe scratch; this will ensure that the surface ofthe stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. Thescratch can now be painted over as describedearlier in this Section.

Repairs of dents in bodyworkWhen deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is topull the dent out, until the affected bodyworkalmost attains its original shape. There is littlepoint in trying to restore the original shapecompletely, as the metal in the damaged areawill have stretched on impact, and cannot bereshaped fully to its original contour. It isbetter to bring the level of the dent up to apoint which is about 3 mm below the level ofthe surrounding bodywork. In cases where thedent is very shallow anyway, it is not worthtrying to pull it out at all. If the underside of thedent is accessible, it can be hammered outgently from behind, using a mallet with awooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,hold a suitable block of wood firmly againstthe outside of the panel, to absorb the impactfrom the hammer blows and thus prevent alarge area of the bodywork from being“belled-out”.

Should the dent be in a section of thebodywork which has a double skin, or someother factor making it inaccessible frombehind, a different technique is called for. Drillseveral small holes through the metal inside

the area - particularly in the deeper section.Then screw long self-tapping screws into theholes, just sufficiently for them to gain a goodpurchase in the metal. Now the dent can bepulled out by pulling on the protruding headsof the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removalof the paint from the damaged area, and froman inch or so of the surrounding “sound”bodywork. This is accomplished most easilyby using a wire brush or abrasive pad on apower drill, although it can be done just aseffectively by hand, using sheets of abrasivepaper. To complete the preparation for filling,score the surface of the bare metal with ascrewdriver or the tang of a file, oralternatively, drill small holes in the affectedarea. This will provide a really good “key” forthe filler paste.

To complete the repair, see the Section onfilling and respraying.

Repairs of rust holes or gashesin bodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area,and from an inch or so of the surrounding“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or awire brush on a power drill. If these are notavailable, a few sheets of abrasive paper willdo the job most effectively. With the paintremoved, you will be able to judge the severityof the corrosion, and therefore decidewhether to renew the whole panel (if this ispossible) or to repair the affected area. Newbody panels are not as expensive as mostpeople think, and it is often quicker and moresatisfactory to fit a new panel than to attemptto repair large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area,except those which will act as a guide to theoriginal shape of the damaged bodywork (egheadlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or ahacksaw blade, remove all loose metal andany other metal badly affected by corrosion.Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, inorder to create a slight depression for the fillerpaste.

Wire-brush the affected area to remove thepowdery rust from the surface of theremaining metal. Paint the affected area withrust-inhibiting paint, if the back of the rustedarea is accessible, treat this also.

Before filling can take place, it will benecessary to block the hole in some way. Thiscan be achieved by the use of aluminium orplastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibrematting, is probably the best material to usefor a large hole. Cut a piece to theapproximate size and shape of the hole to befilled, then position it in the hole so that itsedges are below the level of the surroundingbodywork. It can be retained in position byseveral blobs of filler paste around itsperiphery.

Aluminium tape should be used for small orvery narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trimit to the approximate size and shape required,

then pull off the backing paper (if used) andstick the tape over the hole; it can beoverlapped if the thickness of one piece isinsufficient. Burnish down the edges of thetape with the handle of a screwdriver orsimilar, to ensure that the tape is securelyattached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs - filling andrespraying

Before using this Section, see the Sectionson dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gashrepairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, butgenerally speaking, those proprietary kitswhich contain a tin of filler paste and a tube ofresin hardener are best for this type of repair.A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator willbe found invaluable for imparting a smoothand well-contoured finish to the surface of thefiller.

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of cardor board - measure the hardener carefully(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or tooslowly. Using the applicator, apply the fillerpaste to the prepared area; draw theapplicator across the surface of the filler toachieve the correct contour and to level thesurface. As soon as a contour thatapproximates to the correct one is achieved,stop working the paste - if you carry on toolong, the paste will become sticky and beginto “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue toadd thin layers of filler paste at 20-minuteintervals, until the level of the filler is justproud of the surrounding bodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, the excesscan be removed using a metal plane or file.From then on, progressively-finer grades ofabrasive paper should be used, starting with a40-grade production paper, and finishing witha 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrapthe abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,or wooden block - otherwise the surface ofthe filler will not be completely flat. During thesmoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-dry paper should be periodically rinsed inwater. This will ensure that a very smoothfinish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage, the “dent” should besurrounded by a ring of bare metal, which inturn should be encircled by the finely“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.Rinse the repair area with clean water, until allof the dust produced by the rubbing-downoperation has gone.

Spray the whole area with a light coat ofprimer - this will show up any imperfections inthe surface of the filler. Repair theseimperfections with fresh filler paste orbodystopper, and once more smooth thesurface with abrasive paper. Repeat thisspray-and-repair procedure until you aresatisfied that the surface of the filler, and thefeathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.Clean the repair area with clean water, andallow to dry fully.

Bodywork and fittings 11•3

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The repair area is now ready for finalspraying. Paint spraying must be carried outin a warm, dry, windless and dust-freeatmosphere. This condition can be createdartificially if you have access to a large indoorworking area, but if you are forced to work inthe open, you will have to pick your day verycarefully. If you are working indoors, dousingthe floor in the work area with water will helpto settle the dust which would otherwise be inthe atmosphere. If the repair area is confinedto one body panel, mask off the surroundingpanels; this will help to minimise the effects ofa slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodyworkfittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)will also need to be masked off. Use genuinemasking tape, and several thicknesses ofnewspaper, for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate theaerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area(an old tin, or similar) until the technique ismastered. Cover the repair area with a thickcoat of primer; the thickness should be builtup using several thin layers of paint, ratherthan one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of the primeruntil it is really smooth. While doing this, thework area should be thoroughly doused withwater, and the wet-and-dry paper periodicallyrinsed in water. Allow to dry before sprayingon more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up thethickness by using several thin layers of paint.Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,and then, using a side-to-side motion, workuntil the whole repair area and about 2 inchesof the surrounding original paintwork iscovered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks toharden, then, using a paintwork renovator, ora very fine cutting paste, blend the edges ofthe paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,apply wax polish.

Plastic componentsWith the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (egbumpers. spoilers, and in some cases majorbody panels), rectification of more seriousdamage to such items has become a matterof either entrusting repair work to a specialistin this field, or renewing completecomponents. Repair of such damage by theDIY owner is not really feasible, owing to thecost of the equipment and materials requiredfor effecting such repairs. The basic techniqueinvolves making a groove along the line of thecrack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in apower drill. The damaged part is then weldedback together, using a hot-air gun to heat upand fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.Any excess plastic is then removed, and thearea rubbed down to a smooth finish. It isimportant that a filler rod of the correct plasticis used, as body components can be made ofa variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIYowner using a two-part epoxy filler repairmaterial. Once mixed in equal proportions,this is used in similar fashion to the bodyworkfiller used on metal panels. The filler is usuallycured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready forsanding and painting.

If the owner is renewing a completecomponent himself, or if he has repaired itwith epoxy filler, he will be left with theproblem of finding a suitable paint for finishingwhich is compatible with the type of plasticused. At one time, the use of a universal paintwas not possible, owing to the complex rangeof plastics encountered in body componentapplications. Standard paints, generallyspeaking, will not bond to plastic or rubbersatisfactorily. However, it is now possible toobtain a plastic body parts finishing kit whichconsists of a pre-primer treatment, a primerand coloured top coat. Full instructions arenormally supplied with a kit, but basically, themethod of use is to first apply the pre-primerto the component concerned, and allow it todry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer isapplied, and left to dry for about an hourbefore finally applying the special-coloured

top coat. The result is a correctly-colouredcomponent, where the paint will flex with theplastic or rubber, a property that standardpaint does not normally possess.

5 Major body damage - repair 5

Where serious damage has occurred, or largeareas need renewal due to neglect, it meansthat complete new panels will need welding in;this is best left to professionals. If the damage isdue to impact, it will also be necessary to checkcompletely the alignment of the bodyshell; thiscan only be carried out accurately by a Roverdealer using special jigs. If the body is leftmisaligned, it is primarily dangerous as the carwill not handle properly and secondly, unevenstresses will be imposed on the steering,suspension and possibly transmission, causingabnormal wear or complete failure, particularlyto items such as the tyres.

6 Bonnet - removal, refitting andadjustment

1Removal1 Open the bonnet and remove the sound-deadening material on the left-hand side byreleasing the clip retainers (see illustration).2 Undo the two screws securing theillumination light to the bonnet, feed the lampand wiring down behind the sound-deadeningmaterial and retrieve it from the bottom of thebonnet (see illustration). Place the light andwiring to one side.3 Disconnect the windscreen washer fluidfeed hose at the two-way connector (seeillustration).4 Place some rags beneath the bonnetcorners, by the hinges.5 Mark the position of the hinges by drawingaround them with a soft pencil, then loosenthe retaining bolts.6 Engage the help of an assistant to supportthe bonnet.

11•4 Bodywork and fittings

6.3 Disconnect the windscreen washerfluid feed hose (arrowed)

6.2 Remove the under-bonnet illuminationlight

6.1 Remove the sound-deadening materialby releasing the clip retainers

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

If bodystopper is used, it canbe mixed with cellulosethinners to form a really thinpaste which is ideal forfilling small holes.

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7 Using a small screwdriver, prise out theclips securing the support struts to the pegson the bonnet (see illustration). Release bothstruts from their pegs.8 Undo the retaining bolts and carefully liftaway the bonnet.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal; adjust thebonnet on the hinges to its original position,then check the alignment as follows.

Adjustment10 Close the bonnet and check the alignmentwith the adjacent body panels. The bonnetcan be moved forward and backward byadjusting its position at each hinge. If thebonnet is too low with respect to the adjacentwing, fit small shims between the hinge andbonnet.11 Check the bonnet closure and ease ofopening. If the striker pins do not engagesmoothly with the lock plates, slacken thestriker plate retaining bolts and reposition theplates. If necessary, slacken the locknut andadjust the striker pin height by turning theslotted end with a screwdriver.

7 Bonnet lock and releasecable - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 From inside the car, undo the bolts andwithdraw the release lever from the right-handside of the footwell.2 Disengage the cables from the lever.3 Working in the engine compartment, undothe bolts securing the relevant bonnet lock tothe front body panel.4 Withdraw the lock from under the bodypanel and disengage the release cable.5 Release the cable from the retaining clipsand ties in the engine compartment, and fromthe bulkhead grommet.6 Feed the cable through into the engine compartment and remove it from thecar.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust thebonnet lock as described in Section 6, ifnecessary.

8 Boot lid - removal, refittingand adjustment 1

Removal1 Open the boot lid and remove the plasticcover over the lock.2 Release the retaining clip and disconnectthe link rod from the lock lever.3 Disconnect the wiring at the connectoradjacent to the lock.4 Undo the two bolts and withdraw the lockfrom the boot lid.5 Withdraw the lock release cable outersheath from the lock bracket, and disconnectthe inner cable from the lock lever.6 Withdraw the grommet from the cable entrypoint above the boot lid hinge, and release thecable from the hinge cable clips and ties.Withdraw the release cable and wiring.7 With an assistant supporting the boot lid,undo the four hinge bolts and lift the boot lidaway.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Engagethe centre groove of the lock release cablesheath into the lock bracket slot initially, butuse an alternative groove if the release leveraction is unsatisfactory.

Adjustment9 With the boot lid closed, check therelationship of the lid with the adjacent panels.If necessary, the boot can be repositioned byaltering the position of the hinges at theirbody attachment. To do this, remove the rearseats as described in Section 43, and removethe parcel shelf. Slacken the hinge nuts andreposition the hinges as required. Tighten thenuts, then close the boot lid and check theoperation of the lock. If necessary, slackenthe striker plate bolts, reposition the strikerplate and tighten the bolts (see illustration).10 Refit the parcel shelf and rear seats oncompletion.

9 Boot lock - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 On later models, remove the bootlid/tailgate lock solenoid as described inSection 18.2 Remove the plastic cover over the lock (seeillustration).3 Where applicable, release the retaining clipand disconnect the link rod from the lock lever.4 Disconnect the wiring at the connectoradjacent to the lock.5 Undo the two bolts and withdraw the lockfrom the boot lid.6 Withdraw the lock release cable outersheath from the lock bracket, disconnect theinner cable from the lock lever, and removethe lock.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Engagethe centre groove of the lock release cablesheath into the lock bracket slot initially, butuse an alternative groove if the release leveraction is unsatisfactory.

10 Boot lid private lock -removal and refitting 1

Pre-1992 model yearRemoval1 Remove the number plate from the boot lid.2 From inside the boot lid, undo the screws

Bodywork and fittings 11•5

6.7 Prise out the support strut retainingclips

9.2 Boot lock attachments - early modelsshown, later models similar

1 Plastic cover2 Link rod retaining

clip3 Link rod4 Wiring connector

5 Lock retainingbolts

6 Release cableouter sheath

7 Inner cable8 Boot lock

8.9 Boot lid striker plate retaining bolts(arrowed)

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and remove the centre lens and reflectorassembly (see illustration).3 Extract the retaining circlip from the privatelock lever, and withdraw the link rod.4 Drill out the three retaining rivets, andremove the private lock from the boot lid (seeillustration).

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

1992 model year onwards

Removal6 Remove the boot lock as described inSection 9.7 Disconnect the private lock wiringmultiplug.8 Extract the retaining clip and withdraw theprivate lock from the boot lid.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

11 Boot lid/tailgate and fuelfiller flap release control -removal and refitting

1Removal1 Withdraw the knobs from the release leversinside the car (see illustration).2 Undo the two screws securing the releasecontrol cover - one on the side face, and oneunder a flap at the rear (see illustration).3 Withdraw the cover retaining stud on the

inner face, then lift the cover off the releasecontrol (see illustrations).4 Undo the screws securing the front silltread plate, lift off the tread plate, and pullback the carpet around the release control.5 Undo the three screws and withdraw therelease control.6 Disconnect the inner cable end(s) and outercable sheath(s) and, if applicable, the wiringconnectors. Remove the control from the car.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Note thaton models with twin cables, the boot/tailgaterelease cable with the single groove in theouter cable sheath is fitted to the upperlocation, and the fuel filler flap release with thethree grooves in the outer cable sheath isfitted to the lower location. Engage the centregroove with the bracket when fitting the fillerflap cable, and check the release operation. Ifunsatisfactory, use an alternate groove.

12 Boot lid/tailgate releasecable - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Remove the boot lid/tailgate and fuel fillerflap release control as described in Sec-tion 11.2 Undo the screws securing the rear sill treadplate, lift off the tread plate and move asidethe carpet around the sill.

3 Remove the rear seat as described inSection 42.4 On Saloon models, open the boot lid andremove the plastic cover over the lock. OnFastback models, open the tailgate, releasethe screw studs and remove the tailgate innertrim panel.5 Release the retaining clip and disconnectthe link rod from the lock lever.6 Disconnect the wiring at the connectoradjacent to the lock.7 Undo the two bolts and withdraw the lockfrom the boot lid/tailgate.8 Withdraw the lock release cable outersheath from the lock bracket, and disconnectthe inner cable from the lock lever.9 Withdraw the grommet from the cable entrypoint and release the cable from the cableclips and ties.10 Withdraw the release cable from the bootlid/tailgate.11 Tie a drawstring to the release control endof the cable, and pull the cable into theluggage compartment. Untie the drawstringand remove the release cable from the car.

Refitting12 Tie the drawstring to the new cable, andpull it through into the car interior.13 Refit the cable to the release lever andlock, then reassemble the components usinga reversal of removal. When refitting the cableto the lock, engage the centre groove of thecable sheath into the lock bracket slot initially,but use an alternative groove if the releaselever action is unsatisfactory.

11•6 Bodywork and fittings

11.3b . . . for access to the release controlassembly

11.3a Withdraw the cover . . .11.2 Undo the release lever control coverretaining screws

11.1 Withdraw the boot lid/tailgate andfuel filler flap release lever knobs

10.4 Boot lid private lock retaining rivets10.2 Undo the centre lens and reflectorretaining screw

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13 Fuel filler flap release cable -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Open the fuel filler flap, then remove theboot lid/tailgate and fuel filler flap releasecontrol, as described in Section 11.2 Undo the screws securing the rear sill treadplate, lift off the tread plate and move asidethe carpet around the sill.3 Remove the rear seat as described inSection 43.4 Extract the retaining clip securing the cableend at the filler flap end, and push the cablethrough into the luggage compartment.5 Release the cable from the retaining clips,and pull it into the car interior.

6 Where fitted, undo the screws and removethe cover strip over the cable beneath the rearseat location.7 Release the cable from any further clips andties, and remove it from the car.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, withreference to Section 11 when refitting thecable to the release control.

14 Tailgate - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Open the tailgate and release the parcelshelf support strings.2 From inside the car, remove the headlinerrear finisher for access to the tailgate hingeretaining nuts.3 Disconnect the screen washer hose, andthe tailgate wiring harness connectors.4 Support the tailgate with the help of anassistant, or using a prop.5 Extract the wire spring retainer securingeach support strut to its tailgate ball-stud, andrelease the struts.6 Undo the tailgate hinge retaining nuts andremove the tailgate from the car.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, inconjunction with the following adjustmentprocedure.

8 With the tailgate closed, check therelationship of the tailgate with the adjacentpanels. If necessary, it can be repositioned byaltering the position of the hinges at theirbody attachment. Slacken the hinge nuts, andreposition the hinges are required. Tighten thenuts, then close the tailgate and check theoperation of the lock. If necessary, slackenthe striker plate bolts, reposition the strikerplate and tighten the bolts.

15 Tailgate support strut -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Open the tailgate and support it with thehelp of an assistant, or using a prop.2 Extract the wire spring retainer securing theupper end of the support strut to its ball-stud,and release the strut (see illustrations).3 Release the strut lower end clip, ease thestrut from its stud and remove it from the car(see illustration).4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

16 Tailgate lock -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Open the tailgate, release the screw studsand remove the tailgate inner trim panel (seeillustration).2 On later models, remove the bootlid/tailgate lock solenoid as described inSection 18.3 Remove the plastic cover from the lock(see illustration).4 Where applicable, release the retaining clipand remove the link rod from the lock lever.5 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs at theharness connectors, or the two wires at thelock as applicable.6 Undo the two lock retaining bolts andwithdraw the lock from the tailgate (seeillustration).7 Where applicable, withdraw the lock

Bodywork and fittings 11•7

15.3 Release the strut lower end from itsstud

15.2b . . . and release the strut from thestud

15.2a Extract the support strut wire springretainer . . .

16.6 Undo the two lock retaining bolts(arrowed)

16.3 Remove the plastic cover from thelock

16.1 Release the screw studs and removethe tailgate inner trim panel

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release cable outer sheath from the lockbracket and disconnect the inner cable fromthe lock lever

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

17 Tailgate private lock -removal and refitting 1

Pre-1992 model year

Removal1 Open the tailgate, release the screw studsand remove the tailgate inner trim panel.2 Remove the number plate from the tailgate.3 From inside the tailgate, undo the screwsand remove the centre lens and reflectorassembly.4 Extract the retaining circlip from the privatelock lever, and withdraw the lever from thelock (see illustration).5 Drill out the three retaining rivets andremove the private lock from the tailgate.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

1992 model year onwards

Removal7 Remove the tailgate lock as described inSection 16.

8 Disconnect the private lock wiringmultiplug.9 Extract the retaining clip and withdraw theprivate lock from the tailgate (seeillustration).

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

18 Boot lid/tailgate locksolenoid - removal and refitting

1Removal1 Open the boot lid/tailgate, release thescrew studs and remove the inner trim panel.2 On early models, remove the number platefrom the tailgate then undo the screws andremove the centre lens and reflectorassembly.3 Disconnect the solenoid wiring multiplug.4 Undo the two screws and remove thesolenoid.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

19 Radiator grille - removal and refitting 1

Pre-1992 model year

Removal1 Undo the four grille upper retaining screws(see illustration).2 Release the two lower retaining clips andwithdraw the grille from the car (seeillustration).

Refitting3 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

1992 model year onwards

Removal4 Carefully prise out the Rover motif from thecentre of the grille (see illustration).

11•8 Bodywork and fittings

19.4 Radiator grille attachments on later models19.2 . . . and release the two lower

retaining clips

19.1 On early models, undo the radiatorgrille upper retaining screws (arrowed) . . .

17.9 Private lock component attachmentson later models

17.4 Private lock lever retaining circlip(arrowed) on early models

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Rover motif2 Retaining bolts3 Radiator grille4 Rubber surround

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5 Open the bonnet and undo the seven boltssecuring the grille panel.6 Remove the grille from the bonnet andrecover the rubber surround.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

20 Windscreen, rear windowand tailgate glass - removal and refitting

5The primary window glass on the Rover 800

Series is flush-glazed, and secured to thebody shell by direct bonding. Due to thismethod of retention, special tools andequipment are required for removal andrefitting, and this task is definitely beyond the

scope of the home mechanic. If it is necessaryto have windscreen, rear window or tailgatewindow glass removed, this job should be leftto a suitably-equipped specialist.

21 Front door inner trim panel -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Insert a small screwdriver into the slot atthe rear of the interior locking button, andprise apart the outer moulded half of thelocking button. Lift off the outer half, thenremove the inner half from the locking rod(see illustrations).

2 On early models, carefully prise out thefinisher trim from the inner handle, disconnectthe tweeter speaker leads and remove thefinisher (see illustrations).3 On later models, prise out the door innerhandle centre finisher trim, and undo the twoscrews securing the trim surround to the door.Pull the door handle outwards, andmanipulate the trim surround off the handleand door panel (see illustrations).Disconnect the tweeter speaker leads fromthe rear of the trim surround, and remove thesurround.4 Prise out the blanking plate or interior lightfrom the trim panel, and where applicable,disconnect the wiring and remove the light.5 Undo the screw at the top of the door pullbelow the interior handle (see illustration).

Bodywork and fittings 11•9

21.1c . . . followed by the inner half21.1b . . . and lift out the outer half . . .21.1a Prise apart the interior lock button . . .

21.5 Undo the screw at the top of the doorpull

21.3c Manipulate the surround off thehandle

21.3b . . . and undo the trim surroundscrews

21.3a On later models, prise out the innerhandle centre finisher trim . . .

21.2b . . . and disconnect the tweeterspeaker leads

21.2a On early models, prise out the innerhandle finisher trim . . .

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6 Ease back the padded trim at the bottom ofthe panel, or lift off the plastic cap, to exposethe retaining screw, then undo the screw (seeillustrations).7 Pull out the blanking plug on the rear side ofthe panel, and undo the recessed screwbehind (see illustrations).8 Undo the screw at the upper front corner ofthe panel (see illustration).9 Undo the screw at each end of the storagebin (see illustrations).10 Working through the blanking plate orinterior light aperture, undo the screw in therecess (see illustration).11 Where fitted, undo the screw from the

bottom of the door pull finger grip, andremove the finger grip from the panel.12 If the panel incorporates a moulded door pull, prise out the blanking plug andundo the recessed screw behind (seeillustrations).13 Where applicable, release the rubber bootover the door mirror adjustment stalk, releasethe stalk retaining clips and push the stalkthrough to the inside of the panel (seeillustrations).14 Using a flat tool or your fingers, releasethe eight studs securing the panel to the doorby prising the panel out, or sharply pulling itout, in the vicinity of each stud. Lift the panel

11•10 Bodywork and fittings

21.12b . . . and undo the recessed screwbehind

21.12a If the panel has a moulded doorpull, prise out the blanking plug . . .

21.10 Undo the screw behind the blankingplate or interior light

21.9b . . . and rear screw21.9a Undo the storage bin front screw . . .21.8 Undo the screw at the front corner

21.7b . . . and undo the recessed rear sidescrew

21.7a Pull out the blanking plug . . .21.6b . . . or behind the plastic cap21.6a Undo the bottom screw behind thepadded trim . . .

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upwards and withdraw it from the door (seeillustration).15 Disconnect the switch panel wiringmultiplug from the rear of the panel andremove the panel.

Refitting16 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

22 Front door - removal, refittingand adjustment 1

Removal1 Remove the front door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 21.2 Release the masking tape and carefully

peel back the polythene condensation barrierfor access to the internal wiring multiplugs.3 Identify the multiplugs for refitting, thendisconnect them from the door components.Withdraw the wiring harness from the door.4 Using a drift, tap out the door check strapretaining roll pin (see illustration).5 With the help of an assistant, support thedoor on a padded jack, undo the four hingeretaining bolts and withdraw the door from thecar.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Adjustment7 Check the fit of the door against thesurrounding panels, and if necessary slackenthe hinge bolts and reposition the door.8 When the door fit is correct, check theoperation of the lock, and if necessary slacken

the striker plate screws and reposition thestriker plate (see illustration). Tighten all thebolts and screws securely on completion.

23 Front door lock - removal and refitting 1

Saloon and Fastback models

Removal1 Remove the front door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 21.2 Release the masking tape and carefullypeel back the polythene condensation barrieras necessary for access to the door lock area.3 Carefully prise out the door lock link rodand control rod from their attachments at theprivate lock lever and exterior handle leverrespectively (see illustration).

Bodywork and fittings 11•11

21.14 Withdraw the panel from the door21.13b . . . release the stalk retaining clipsand push the stalk through the panel

21.13a Release the rubber boot over themanual door mirror adjustment stalk . . .

23.3 Front door lock attachments - Saloon and Fastback models shown, Coupe similar22.8 Door striker plate retaining screws

(arrowed)

22.4 Tap out the door check strapretaining roll pin (arrowed)

11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Link rod clip2 Link rod3 Trunnion4 Lock retaining

screws5 Lock6 Control rod7 Link rod8 Wiring

multiplug9 Central locking

motor

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4 Undo the three screws securing the lockassembly to the door.5 Lower the lock assembly, and release theinterior handle control rod and locking buttonrod from the lock levers.6 Disconnect the central locking motor wiringmultiplug, and manipulate the lock assemblyfrom the door.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Coupe models

Removal8 Remove the front door cassette assemblyas described in Section 29.9 Carefully prise out the door lock link rodand control rod from their attachments at theprivate lock lever and exterior handle leverrespectively.10 Undo the screw securing the interior lockbutton control rod bellcrank.11 Withdraw the bellcrank from the door, anddisconnect the door lock control rod.12 Release the cable tie from the centrallocking motor wiring harness and disconnectthe harness multiplug.13 Undo the three screws securing the lockassembly to the door.14 Withdraw the lock assembly, anddisconnect the interior handle control cablefrom the lock. Release the cable from the lockshield and remove the lock assembly.

Refitting15 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

24 Front door private lock -removal and refitting 1

Saloon and Fastback models

Removal1 Remove the front door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 21.2 Release the masking tape and carefullypeel back the polythene condensation barrieras necessary for access to the door lock area.3 Extract the circlip from the end of the lockbarrel, and remove the washer, plate andoperating lever (see illustration).4 Where applicable, release the wiringharness retaining clip and disconnect theharness multiplug.5 Extract the private lock retaining wire clip,and withdraw the lock from the outside of thedoor.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Coupe models

Removal7 Remove the front door cassette assemblyas described in Section 29.

8 Carefully prise out the door lock link rodfrom the private lock lever.9 Release the wiring harness from the clip atthe bottom of the door, then disconnect themultiplug at the harness connector.10 Extract the private lock retaining clip andremove the lock from the door handle.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

25 Front door exterior handle -removal and refitting 1

Saloon and Fastback models

Removal1 Remove the front door private lock asdescribed in Section 24.2 Carefully prise out the door lock control rodfrom the exterior handle lever.3 Undo the two retaining bolts and removethe handle from the outside of the door (seeillustration).

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Coupe models

Removal5 Remove the front door cassette assemblyas described in Section 29.

6 Extract the private lock retaining clip andremove the lock from the door handle.7 Carefully prise out the door lock control rodfrom the exterior handle lever.8 Remove the blanking plug on the inside ofthe door for access to the outer retaining bolt.9 Undo the two retaining bolts and removethe handle from outside of the door. Collectthe two rubber washers as the handle isremoved.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

26 Front door interior handle -removal and refitting 1

Pre-1992 model yearRemoval1 Remove the front door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 21.2 Remove the foam pad from the handle (seeillustration).3 Where applicable, undo the screwssecuring the handle to the door panel.4 Lift the locking tab at the front of the handlebody, slide the handle rearwards andwithdraw it from the door (see illustration).5 Disconnect the operating rod and removethe handle.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

11•12 Bodywork and fittings

26.4 Withdraw the handle from the door26.2 Remove the foam pad from theinterior handle

25.3 Front door exterior handle retainingbolts (arrowed)

24.3 Lock barrel operating lever retainingcirclip (A) and private lock retaining wire

clip (B)

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1992 model year onwards

Removal7 Remove the front door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 21.8 Undo the four screws securing the handleto the door panel.9 Slide the handle forward and withdraw itfrom the door.10 Disconnect the disconnect the interiorhandle control rod or cable and remove thehandle.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

27 Front door window glass -removal and refitting 5

Saloon and Fastback models

Removal1 Remove the front door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 21.2 Using a screwdriver and protective rag,carefully prise up the waist seal from theupper edge of the door panel to release theretaining clips (see illustrations).3 Remove the front door main speaker,referring to Chapter 12 if necessary.4 Where fitted, undo the three screws and

remove the trim panel support bracket.5 Release the masking tape securing thewiring loom and loom connectors to the doorpanel.6 Release the wiring loom retaining clips andease the loom away from the door (seeillustrations).7 Undo the three screws securing the relaymounting plate, then move the plate andrelays aside (see illustration).8 Carefully peel back the condensationbarrier, and pull it downwards to provideaccess inside the door.9 Lower the window until the two glass-to-lifting member retaining bolts are accessiblethrough one of the door apertures.10 Undo the two bolts securing the doorglass to the lifting member, and lift the glassup and out of the door (see illustration).

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat the condensation barrier is refittedsecurely over the entire door panel face, andposition the waist seal retaining clips in thewaist seal before refitting the seal to the door(see illustration).

Coupe models

Removal12 Open the window half way, then removethe front door cassette assembly asdescribed in Section 29.

13 With the cassette assembly on the benchwith the glass side upwards, undo the Torxscrews and remove the two glass clampingplates (see illustration).14 Remove the clamping plate plastic shims.15 Carefully lift the window glass off thelifting plates and remove the plastic shims. Ifthe plastic shims have metal spacersattached, ensure that the plastic shims andmetal spacers remain together with theirrespective clamping plates.

Refitting16 Refit the door glass to the cassetteassembly using a reversal of removal.17 With the help of an assistant, lift up thecassette assembly and hold it in a verticalposition. Using a slave battery, fused switch

Bodywork and fittings 11•13

27.6a Release the wiring loom retainingclips . . .

27.6b . . . and ease the loom away fromthe door

27.2b . . . and release the retaining clips27.2a Prise up the door panel waist seal . . .

27.11 Position the waist seal retainingclips in the waist seal before refitting the

seal to the door

27.10 Lift the glass up and out of the door27.7 Undo the three screws and move therelay plate and relays aside

11

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and wiring, connect the window lift motor to the battery and close the windowfully.18 With the window closed, check that thefront edge of the glass and the cheater panelare flush, forming a smooth curve (seeillustration 27.13). If this is not the case, it willbe necessary to obtain additional metalspacers and position these behind the top orbottom of the front lifting plate shims asnecessary, on a trial and error basis.19 Once the initial adjustment is correct, refitthe cassette assembly as described inSection 29.

28 Front door window lift motor- removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Remove the front door window glass asdescribed in Section 27.2 Disconnect the motor wiring multiplug.3 Undo the two lower bolts and one upper bolt securing the lifting channel to thedoor.4 Undo the three motor-to-door securingnuts, and manipulate the motor and liftingchannel through the lower aperture (seeillustrations).

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

29 Front door cassetteassembly (Coupe models) -removal and refitting

5Note: Once the door cassette assembly isdisturbed, it will be necessary to carry out anelaborate adjustment procedure after refitting,to ensure that a leak, noise and draught freeseal is obtained when the window glass isclosed. This adjustment entails the use ofRover special tools and gauges and can onlybe successfully carried out by a suitablyequipped dealer.

Removal1 Remove the door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 21.2 Remove the door mirror as described inSection 31.

3 Remove the door speaker, referring toChapter 12 if necessary.4 Undo the three screws and remove theinner trim panel attachment bracket.5 Carefully prise out the clips securing thewiring multiplugs to the door.6 Release the two clips and remove theplastic condensation barrier.7 Undo the three screws and release theinterior handle from the door.8 Release the window lift motor wiringmultiplug from the door clip and disconnect it.9 Undo the three nuts and release thewindow lift motor studs from the door.10 Undo the two bolts securing the loweredge of the cassette assembly to the door.11 At the top, undo the three bolts at thefront, and two at the rear securing thecassette assembly to the door.12 With the help of an assistant, carefully liftthe cassette assembly out of the door. Takecare not to lift or support the cassetteassembly using the cheater panel in front ofthe window glass as this may cause the panelto move out of alignment.

Refitting13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but havethe cassette assembly and door glassaccurately adjusted by a Rover dealer oncompletion.

30 Front door window cable anddrum assembly (Coupemodels) - removal and refitting

2Removal1 Remove the door window glass asdescribed in Section 27.2 At the bottom front corner of the cassetteassembly, note the fitted position of the outercable retainer in the support bracket. Turn theretainer through 90º to release it from thebracket.3 Bend the guide tabs away from the lowerfront pulley and slip the cable off the pulley.4 Release the lifting plate from the frontrunner.5 Release the cable from the front upperpulley.

11•14 Bodywork and fittings

28.4b . . . and remove the motor from thedoor

28.4a Undo the three window lift motorretaining nuts (arrowed) . . .

27.13 Front door glass attachment details on Coupe models

1 Clamping plate retainingscrews

2 Clamping plates3 Clamping plate plastic

shims

4 Door glass5 Lifting plate plastic

shims6 Lifting plate plastic shim

metal spacers (where fitted)

Inset shows correct andincorrect door glass-to-cheater panel adjustment

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6 At the top rear corner of the cassetteassembly, note the fitted position of the outercable retainer in the support bracket. Turn theretainer through 90º to release it from thebracket.7 Bend the guide tab away from the lowerrear pulley and slip the cable off both rearpulleys.8 Release the outer cable from the clip.9 Detach the cable ends from the glass rearlifting plate.10 Mark the position of the cable exit pointson the cable drum cover plate, then undo thescrews and lift off the plate.11 Taking care not to allow the cable tobecome detached from the drum, lift the cableand drum assembly out of the cassetteassembly.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal bearingin mind the following points.(a) Lubricate the pulleys with Molykote PG65

prior to refitting.(b) Refit the outer cable retainers to the same

positions in the support brackets as notedduring removal.

(c) Ensure that the diagonal cable run ispositioned over the outer cable and motorassembly, between the inner cable andthe window glass.

31 Front door mirror - removal and refitting 1

Manually controlled mirrorRemoval1 Remove the front door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 21.2 Carefully prise off the triangular trim panelfrom the upper corner of the door.3 Undo the three mirror retaining screws,release the cables from their retaining strapinside the door, and remove the mirror andcables from the door.Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Electrically controlled mirror

Removal5 Remove the front door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 21.6 Carefully prise off the triangular trim panelfrom the upper corner of the door (seeillustration).7 Peel back the condensation barrier asnecessary to gain access to the mirror wiringmultiplugs, then disconnect them.8 Undo the three mirror retaining screws andwithdraw the mirror from the door.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

32 Rear door inner trim panel -removal and refitting 1

Note: Many of the attachment points andcomponent fittings are similar to those of thefront door inner trim panel. Refer to Sec-tion 21 for useful photographic details.

Models with electricallyoperated rear windows

Removal1 Insert a small screwdriver or similar tool intothe slot at the rear of the interior lockingbutton, and prise apart the outer moulded halfof the locking button. Lift off the outer half,then remove the inner half from the lockingrod.2 Prise out the door inner handle centrefinisher trim, and undo the two screwssecuring the trim surround to the door.3 Pull the door handle outwards, andmanipulate the trim surround off the handleand door panel.4 Carefully prise out the blanking plate orinterior light from the bottom of the panel. Ifapplicable, disconnect the wiring and removethe light.5 Lift off the plastic caps and undo the twoscrews around the lower rear portion of thepanel.6 Working through the blanking plate orinterior light aperture, undo the screw in therecess.7 Undo the screw at the top of the door pullbelow the interior handle.8 Using a flat tool or your fingers, release thestuds securing the panel to the door byprising the panel out, or sharply pulling it out,in the vicinity of each stud. Lift the panelupwards and withdraw it from the door.9 Disconnect the wiring multiplug at the rearof the window lift switch and remove thepanel.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Models with manually operatedrear windows

Removal11 Insert a small screwdriver into the slot atthe rear of the interior locking button, andprise apart the outer moulded half of thelocking button. Lift off the outer half, thenremove the inner half from the locking rod.12 Prise out the door inner handle centrefinisher trim, and undo the two screwssecuring the trim surround to the door.13 Pull the door handle outwards, andmanipulate the trim surround off the handleand door panel.14 Push in the escutcheon behind thewindow regulator handle, extract the handleretaining clip and withdraw the handle fromthe spindle.15 Undo the screw from the bottom of thedoor pull finger grip, and remove the fingergrip from the panel.16 Lift off the plastic caps and undo the twoscrews around the lower rear portion of thepanel.17 Using a flat tool or your fingers, releasethe studs securing the panel to the door byprising the panel out, or sharply pulling it out,in the vicinity of each stud. Lift the panelupwards and withdraw it from the door.

Refitting18 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Locatethe regulator handle retaining clip in thehandle groove before fitting the handle to thedoor.

33 Rear door - removal, refittingand adjustment

The procedure for the rear door is virtuallyidentical to that for the front door, andreference should be made to Section 22.

34 Rear door exterior handle -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Remove the rear door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 32.2 Release the masking tape and carefullypeel back the polythene condensation barrieras necessary for access to the door lock area.3 Remove the access plug from the rear ofthe door.4 Undo the screw securing the interior lockbutton control rod bellcrank.5 Withdraw the bellcrank from the door, anddisconnect the door lock control rod.6 Undo the bolt securing the rear glasschannel to the door, and remove the glasschannel.7 Undo the three screws securing the doorlock to the rear face of the door.

Bodywork and fittings 11•15

1 Trim panel2 Retaining screws

3 Mirror4 Wiring multiplugs

31.6 Electrically controlled front doormirror attachments

11

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8 Release the door lock control rod from theplastic guide on the inner face of the door.9 Move the door lock aside, and undo thebolts securing the exterior handle to the door.10 Withdraw the exterior handle, release thecollar and remove the control rod from theexterior handle lever.11 Remove the exterior handle from the door.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

35 Rear door lock - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Remove the rear door exterior handle asdescribed in Section 34.2 Release the door inner handle control rodfrom its plastic guide on the inner face of thedoor (see illustration).3 Carefully prise out the two control rodsfrom their respective levers on the door lock.4 Disconnect the central locking motor wiringmultiplug, and manipulate the lock assemblyfrom the door.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

36 Rear door interior handle -removal and refitting

The procedure for the rear door is virtuallyidentical to that for the front door, andreference should be made to Section 26.

37 Rear door window glass -removal and refitting

The procedure for the rear door is virtuallyidentical to that for the front door, andreference should be made to Section 27.

38 Rear door window lift motor- removal and refitting

The procedure for the rear door is virtuallyidentical to that for the front door, andreference should be made to Section 28.

39 Rear door window liftmanual regulator - removal and refitting

The procedure is virtually identical to thatfor the front door with electric lift motor,except that the regulator is secured to the

door with two bolts, and there are no wiringmultiplugs to disconnect. The completeprocedure is covered in Section 28.

40 Rear quarter light glass(Coupe models) - removal and refitting

1Removal1 Remove the rear seat cushion and squab asdescribed in Section 43.2 Carefully ease the door weatherstrip awayfrom the door pillar in the vicinity of the lowertrim panel.3 Lift off the plastic caps and undo the lowertrim panel retaining screw at the upper frontedge of the panel. Repeat this procedure withthe remaining three screws, two at the bottomand one at the upper rear of the panel.4 Using a flat tool or your fingers, release thesix studs securing the lower trim panel to thebody by prising the panel out, or sharplypulling it out, in the vicinity of each stud. Liftaway the panel.5 Prise off the cap and undo the seat beltupper anchorage bolt.6 Undo the three lower screws securing theupper trim panel to the body.7 Using the same procedure as for the lowertrim panel, release the ten panel retainingstuds and remove the panel from the car.8 Undo the eight nuts securing the quarterlight glass in position and carefully ease theglass from the body aperture.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but cleanthe aperture and the glass thoroughly prior torefitting.

41 Bumpers - removal and refitting 1

Front bumper

Removal1 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove theheadlight lens units, and where fitted, theheadlight washer jets.2 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, removethe radiator grille as described in Section 19.3 Undo the bolt and two screws securing theaccess panels below the front of eachwheelarch. Remove both panels (seeillustration).4 Where fitted, disconnect the wiringmultiplugs from the driving lights.5 Where fitted, undo the retaining screw andmove the ambient air temperature sensor toone side.6 Undo the two nuts securing the bumpermoulding to the frame at the front. Withdrawthe washers and clamp plates.7 Release the wheelarch liners from the

11•16 Bodywork and fittings

35.2 Rear door lock attachments1 Control rod and guide2 Control rod attachments3 Wiring multiplug

4 Lock retaining screws5 Door lock

6 Central locking motorretaining screws

7 Central locking motor

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bumper moulding, and release the mouldingfrom the side retaining clips.8 Withdraw the moulding from the bumper.9 Where fitted, release the washer pipe clipsand studs, and disconnect the wiringmultiplug.10 On later models, prise out the two radiatorbaffle retaining studs.11 Undo the bolt securing the dim-dipresistor bracket (where fitted).12 Undo the two bolts securing the centresupport member to the bumper.13 Undo the two end bolts securing thebumper to the frame and remove the bumper.

Refitting14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Rear bumper

Removal15 Remove the trim from the rear of theluggage compartment.16 Undo the screws and remove the twowheelarch liners (see illustration).17 Withdraw the grommets from the rear faceof the luggage compartment, and undo the twobumper moulding retaining nuts and washers.18 Release the moulding from the sideretaining clips, and withdraw the mouldingfrom the bumper.19 Where fitted, remove the plastic coverover the rear towing eye.20 Withdraw the grommets, and undo thetwo bolts each side securing the bumper tothe frame.21 Remove the bumper from the car.

Refitting22 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

42 Front seats - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Where a lumbar support switch panel isfitted to the side of the seat, carefully prise upthe front of the switch panel, disconnect thewiring connectors and remove the panel.2 On early models, prise off the trim caps, andundo the two screws securing the trim panelbelow the seat base. Remove the trim panel.3 Undo the bolt securing the seat belt at thebase of the seat.4 Undo the four bolts securing the seatrunners.5 Undo the bolt securing the seat belt stalk,and remove the stalk.6 Disconnect the seat control multiplugs andrelease the wiring harness from the cable ties.7 Withdraw the seat from the car.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat all wiring harnesses are secured withcable ties well clear of the seat controlcomponents and runners.

Bodywork and fittings 11•17

41.3 Front bumper components - early models shown, later models similar

1 Access panel retaining bolt2 Access panel retaining

screws3 Access panel4 Bumper moulding clamp

5 Bumper moulding sideclips

6 Bumper moulding7 Stud8 Wiring multiplug

9 Centre support memberbolts

10 Bumper retaining bolts11 Bumper mounting

11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

41.16 Rear bumper components - earlymodels shown, later models similar

1 Wheelarch liner screws2 Wheelarch liner3 Bumper moulding

nuts and grommets4 Bumper moulding

retaining bolts5 Bumper moulding

retaining clips6 Bumper moulding7 Towing eye cover8 Bumper mounting

nuts and grommets9 Bumper mounting

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43 Rear seats - removal and refitting 1

Saloon modelsRemoval - bench type seat (pre-1992model year)1 Push the seat base rearwards, and at thesame time lift it up to release the tworetainers. Remove the seat base from the car.2 Undo the four bolts at the base of the seatsquab.3 Release the two seat belts from theretainers.4 Slide the squab downwards and forwardsto release the rear locating pegs, then removethe squab from the car.

Removal - bench type seat (1992model year onwards)5 Push the seat base rearwards, and at thesame time lift it up to release the tworetainers. Remove the seat base from the car.6 Undo the bolt at the base of each sidecushion extension, lift the cushion extensionsupwards to release the rear wire retainers, andremove the side cushions.7 Operate the release levers and tip the twoseat squabs forward.8 Undo the two bolts securing the hingebrackets at the ends of each squab.9 Release the seat belt stalks and remove thesquabs from the car.

Removal - individual type seat10 Lift up the seat base to disengage thefloor clips and remove the base.11 Undo the four nuts securing the seat panto the floor. Slide the pan sideways todisengage the squab guides and remove thepan.12 Slide the seat squab downwards andforwards to disengage the rear upperretainers and remove the squab from the car.

Refitting - all seat types13 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fastback models14 Refer to the above procedure for thebench type seat (1992 model year onwards).

Coupe modelsRemoval15 Push the seat base rearwards, and at thesame time lift it up to release the tworetainers. Remove the seat base from the car.16 From inside the luggage compartment,undo the three seat squab upper retainingbolts.17 Undo the four lower retaining bolts at thebase of the squab.18 Release the seat belt buckles from theirlocation pockets and remove the seat squabfrom the car.

Refitting19 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

44 Rear seat squab releaselever and cable - removal and refitting

1Removal1 Remove the luggage compartment lightfrom the release lever surround.2 Undo the screw in the light aperture, movethe release lever surround forwards andoutwards, then disengage the two rearlocating lugs (see illustrations).3 Extract the outer cable retaining clip at therear of the lever surround (see illustration).4 Disengage the inner cable from the releaselever, and remove the lever and surroundassembly.5 Extract the outer cable retaining clip at thesquab locking mechanism (see illustration).6 Disengage the inner cable from the lever,and remove the cable from the car.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

45 Seat belts - removal and refitting 1

Front seat belts - Saloon andFastback modelsRemoval1 Remove the front seat as described inSection 42.

2 Remove the trim cap over the topanchorage, undo the retaining bolt andrecover the spacer and fibre washer.3 Ease the weatherstrip away from both sidesof the centre door pillar.4 Carefully prise off the upper trim from thecentre door pillar.5 Undo the two screws, nearest the centredoor pillar, from the front and rear carpetretainer plates.6 Lift the ends of the carpet retainer platesand carefully prise off the lower trim from thecentre door pillar.7 Undo the retaining screw from the seat beltguide and remove the guide.8 Undo the bolt at the seat belt anchorage.9 Undo the bolt at the base of the inertia reel,and remove the seat belt components.10 Undo the bolt securing the seat belt stalkto the seat, and remove the stalk.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Front seat belts - Coupe models

Removal12 Remove the front seat as described inSection 42.13 Remove the trim cap over the topanchorage, undo the retaining bolt andrecover the spacer and fibre washer.14 Carefully ease the door weatherstrip awayfrom the door pillar in the vicinity of the lowertrim panel.15 Lift off the plastic caps and undo thelower trim panel retaining screw at the upper

11•18 Bodywork and fittings

44.5 . . . and the clip at the lockingmechanism (arrowed)

44.3 Extract the outer cable retaining clip(arrowed) at the lever surround . . .

44.2b . . . and disengage the locating lugs44.2a Undo the release lever surroundretaining screw . . .

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front edge of the panel. Repeat this procedurewith the remaining three screws, two at thebottom and one at the upper rear of the panel.16 Using a flat tool or your fingers, releasethe six studs securing the lower trim panel tothe body by prising the panel out, or sharplypulling it out, in the vicinity of each stud. Liftaway the panel.17 Lift off the plastic caps and undo the twobolts securing the seat belt lower anchoragebar to the body. Release the bar and slide outthe seat belt.18 Release the seat belt from the guide in thedoor pillar.19 Undo the bolts at the base of the inertiareel, and remove the seat belt components.20 Undo the bolt securing the seat belt stalkto the seat, and remove the stalk.

Refitting21 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Rear seat belts

Removal22 Remove the rear seat base and squab asdescribed in Section 43.23 Undo the bolts at the seat belt loweranchorages.24 Remove the belt guide from the rearparcel shelf.25 Remove the trim cap over the topanchorage (early models), undo the retainingbolt and recover the spacer and fibre washer.26 From within the luggage compartment,undo the bolt at the base of the inertia reel,

and remove the seat belt assembly from theluggage compartment. On later Saloonmodels it will be necessary to remove the rearparcel shelf for access to the inertia reel.27 Undo the retaining bolts and remove theindividual static belts as required.

Refitting28 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

46 Sunroof - general information

A mechanically or electrically operated steelsunroof is available as standard or optionalequipment according to model.

The sunroof is maintenance-free, but anyadjustment or removal and refitting of thecomponent parts should be entrusted to adealer, due to the complexity of the unit andthe need to remove much of the interior trimand headlining to gain access. The latteroperation is involved, and requires care andspecialist knowledge to avoid damage.

47 Centre console -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 On manual transmission models, unscrewthe gear lever knob and remove the gear leverboot.

2 On automatic transmission models, undothe retaining screw and lift off the selectorlever. Carefully prise up the selector leverquadrant, disconnect the wiring multiplugsand remove the quadrant.3 Prise up the coin trays or switch panels oneach side of the handbrake lever (seeillustration). Remove the coin trays, ordisconnect the multiplugs and remove theswitch panels.4 Insert a screwdriver under the rear end ofthe cover trim over the handbrake lever. Priseup the cover rear end, then withdraw thecover from the handbrake lever (seeillustration).5 Lift back the edges of the carpet under thecoin holder or switch panel locations, andundo the two console retaining bolts underthe carpet (see illustration).6 Remove the rear ashtray, followed by theashtray insert (where fitted). Disconnect theashtray wiring multiplugs and remove theashtray (see illustration).7 Undo the two screws securing the rear ofthe console, in the ashtray aperture (seeillustration).8 Where applicable, prise off the plastic capsand undo the two screws at the extremeforward sides of the console, beneath thefacia.9 On models with a high console, open thecassette holder lid, and undo the two screwsat the base of the cassette racks (seeillustration).10 Where a switch panel or removable cover

Bodywork and fittings 11•19

47.5 Console left-hand retaining bolt(arrowed)

47.4 Prise up the handbrake lever covertrim

47.3 Prise up the coin trays

47.9 Undo the two screws at the base ofthe cassette rack

47.7 . . . and undo the two rear screws47.6 Remove the rear ashtray and insert . . .

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plate is fitted just forward of the handbrakelever, release the panel or cover plate,disconnect the wiring multiplugs (whereapplicable) and manipulate the panel or coverplate over the handbrake lever.11 Apply the handbrake as hard as possible,then lift the rear of the console over thehandbrake lever (see illustrations). Slide theforward end of the console out from under thefacia and remove the console from the car. Onsome models, there is barely sufficientclearance to allow the console to clear thehandbrake under normal conditions, and if itproves impossible to do this, refer to Chapter9 and slacken the handbrake adjuster to allowthe lever to be pulled up further.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust

the handbrake as described in Chapter 9, ifthe adjuster position was disturbed.

48 Facia - removal and refitting 4

Pre-1992 model yearRemoval1 Remove the instrument panel and the radiocassette player as described in Chapter 12.2 Release the turnbuckles and remove thetrim panel under the facia on the driver’s side.Remove the additional panel over the clutch,brake and accelerator pedals (seeillustration).3 Release the heater outer cable retaining

clips on the lower right-hand side of theheater, and slip the inner cable ends off thelever studs (see illustration).4 Pull off the control knobs on the heatercontrol switches (see illustration).5 Undo the two nuts and two bolts securingthe steering column clamp and mountingbracket under the facia. Remove the clampand lower the column.6 Release the retaining button and withdrawthe triangular-shaped trim panels at the baseof the lower facia (see illustration).7 Undo the retaining screw now exposed oneach side, securing the lower facia sidebraces to the support bracket (seeillustration).8 Using a screwdriver, release the radiomounting plate side retainers and remove themounting plate (see illustrations).

11•20 Bodywork and fittings

48.8b . . . and remove the mounting plate48.8a Release the radio mounting plateretainers (arrowed) . . .

48.7 Undo the side brace retaining screws(arrowed)

48.6 Withdraw the trim panel at the baseof the lower facia

48.4 Pull off the heater knobs48.3 Release the heater cables at theheater (arrowed)

48.2 Remove the trim panel under thefacia

47.11b . . . and lift the console over thehandbrake lever

47.11a Apply the handbrake fully . . .

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9 Undo the two screws at the base of theoddments tray below the clock (seeillustration).10 Withdraw the clock and oddments trayhousing from the lower facia, and disconnectthe clock wiring multiplug.11 Undo the two upper screws securing thelower facia, and withdraw the lower facia fromits location (see illustrations).12 Disconnect the wiring multiplug at the rearand remove the lower facia from the car.13 Undo the screw at each end of the cross-brace under the facia on the driver’s side (seeillustration).14 Undo the bolt at each lower end of thefacia (see illustration).15 Undo the two bolts on the front supportplate at the base of the facia (seeillustration).

16 Lift up the cover plate on the facia top, atthe centre below the windscreen, and undothe bolt below the plate (see illustration).17 Prise out the trim caps at each side of thefacia, adjacent to the door apertures andundo the bolt behind (see illustrations).18 With the help of an assistant, lift the faciafrom its location and withdraw it slightlyforward.19 Disconnect the wiring multiplug at theinertia switch, and at the fusebox, anddisconnect the two main loom multiplugs.20 With all the wiring disconnected, removethe facia from the car.

Refitting21 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Whenconnecting the heater cables, adjust theposition of the outer cables in their retaining

clips so as to give full travel of the heaterlevers, consistent with full travel of the controllevers.

1992 model year onwards

Warning: On vehicles fitted witha passenger’s side air bag, seekthe advice of a Rover dealerconcerning safety implicationsbefore proceeding.

Removal22 Where fitted, have the passenger side air-bag module removed by a Rover dealer, orseek his advise concerning the feasibility ofthe following operations before proceeding.23 Remove the steering wheel and steeringcolumn as described in Chapter 10.24 Remove the instrument panel, the radio

Bodywork and fittings 11•21

48.11b . . . and remove the lower facia48.11a Undo the lower facia upper screws . . .

48.9 Undo the screws in the oddmentstray

48.17b . . . and undo the bolts in the doorapertures

48.17a Prise out the trim caps . . .48.16 Lift up the centre cover plate andundo the bolt below the plate

48.15 Undo the front support plate bolts(arrowed)

48.14 Undo the bolt at the facia lower end48.13 Undo the cross-brace screws

11

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cassette player and the clock as described inChapter 12.25 Release the two turnbuckles and removethe lower trim panel under the facia on thepassenger’s side.26 Undo the two, or four bolts, as applicablebelow the glovebox and remove the gloveboxfrom the facia.27 Pull off the weatherstrip from the frontbody pillars around the facia and footwell.28 Undo the two screws each side and singleretaining stud on the left-hand side, andremove the two footwell trim panels.29 Remove the radio cassette playermounting housing.30 Remove the fusebox cover under the faciaon the driver’s side if not already done.31 From within the clock aperture, undo theashtray securing screw, disconnect the wiringconnectors and remove the ashtray.32 Release the retaining button and withdraw

the triangular-shaped trim panels at the baseof the lower facia.33 Undo the four upper screws and two innerscrews securing the lower facia to the upperfacia. Remove the lower facia.34 Prise out the trim caps at each side of thefacia, adjacent to the door apertures andundo the bolt behind.35 Undo the two bolts on the front supportplate at the base of the facia.36 Lift up the cover plate or light sensorpanel on the facia top, at the centre below thewindscreen, and undo the bolt behind.37 Undo the two bolts securing the faciamounting brackets to the body.38 Where fitted, undo the additional securingbolt behind the glovebox aperture.39 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs at thefusebox, noting their locations.40 Disconnect the two main wiring harnessmultiplugs.

41 Where fitted, disconnect the two airconditioning wiring harness multiplugs.42 Detach the relay from the facia rail abovethe pedals on the driver’s side.43 Disconnect any remaining wiringmultiplugs, noting their locations.44 Where applicable, release the heater outercable retaining clips on the lower right-handside of the heater, and slip the inner cableends off the lever studs.45 With all the wiring disconnected, removethe facia from the car.

Refitting46 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Whenconnecting the heater cables, adjust theposition of the outer cables in their retainingclips so as to give full travel of the heaterlevers, consistent with full travel of the controllevers.

11•22 Bodywork and fittings

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1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

12

Bulbs WattageHeadlight dipped beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60/55Headlight main beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55Sidelights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Direction indicators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Side repeater lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Front fog light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55Stop/tail lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21/5Reversing lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Rear fog light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Number plate light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Engine compartment light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Interior courtesy lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 or 10Map reading and courtesy light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Footwell and glovebox lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 or 5Vanity mirror light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Luggage compartment light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Instrument panel illumination and warning lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2Ignition warning light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Switch illumination bulbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.36Heater control illumination bulbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.36 and 1.2

Chapter 12 Body electrical system

Airbag supplementary restraint system - general information . . . . . 26Aerial amplifier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Anti-theft system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Anti-theft system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 25Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 5Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Central control unit - description, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 11Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Compact disc player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Exterior light units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Fuses and relays - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Headlight beam alignment - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . 8Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 10Power amplifier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Radio/cassette player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Tailgate wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 17Trip computer - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer system and

wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer system components -

removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . 16Wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

12•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

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1 General information andprecautions

General informationThe electrical system is of 12-volt negative

earth type. Power for the lights and allelectrical accessories is supplied by alead/acid battery which is charged by thealternator.

This Chapter covers repair and serviceprocedures for the various electricalcomponents and systems not associated withthe engine. Information on the battery, ignitionsystem, alternator, and starter motor can befound in Chapter 5.

PrecautionsWarning: Before carrying outany work on the electricalsystem, read through theprecautions given in “Safety

first!” at the beginning of this manual andin Chapter 5.

Caution: Prior to working on anycomponent in the electrical system, thebattery negative lead should first bedisconnected, to prevent the possibility ofelectrical short-circuits and/or fires.Disconnection of the battery will, however,erase the audio unit anti-theft securitycode and also erase the memories of manyof the electrical system electronic controlunits. Refer to Chapter 5, Section 1 foradditional information on the effects ofbattery disconnection.

2 Electrical fault finding -general information 2

Note: Refer to the precautions given in“Safety first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapterbefore starting work. The following tests relateto testing of the main electrical circuits, andshould not be used to test delicate electroniccircuits (such as engine management systems,anti-lock braking systems, etc), particularlywhere an electronic control module is used.Also refer to the precautions given in Chap-ter 5, Section 1.

General1 A typical electrical circuit consists of anelectrical component, any switches, relays,motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakersrelated to that component, and the wiring andconnectors which link the component to boththe battery and the chassis. To help topinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,wiring diagrams are included at the end of thismanual.2 Before attempting to diagnose an electricalfault, first study the appropriate wiring diagram,to obtain a complete understanding of the

components included in the particular circuitconcerned. The possible sources of a fault canbe narrowed down by noting if othercomponents related to the circuit are operatingproperly. If several components or circuits failat one time, the problem is likely to be relatedto a shared fuse or earth connection.3 Electrical problems usually stem fromsimple causes, such as loose or corrodedconnections, a faulty earth connection, ablown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faultyrelay. Visually inspect the condition of allfuses, wires and connections in a problemcircuit before testing the components. Usethe wiring diagrams to determine whichterminal connections will need to be checkedin order to pinpoint the trouble-spot.4 The basic tools required for electrical fault-finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can alsobe used for certain tests); an ohmmeter (tomeasure resistance and check for continuity);a battery and set of test leads; and a jumperwire, preferably with a circuit breaker or fuseincorporated, which can be used to bypasssuspect wires or electrical components.Before attempting to locate a problem withtest instruments, use the wiring diagram todetermine where to make the connections.5 To find the source of an intermittent wiringfault (usually due to a poor or dirtyconnection, or damaged wiring insulation), a“wiggle” test can be performed on the wiring.This involves wiggling the wiring by hand tosee if the fault occurs as the wiring is moved.It should be possible to narrow down thesource of the fault to a particular section ofwiring. This method of testing can be used inconjunction with any of the tests described inthe following sub-Sections.6 Apart from problems due to poorconnections, two basic types of fault canoccur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, orshort-circuit.7 Open-circuit faults are caused by a breaksomewhere in the circuit, which preventscurrent from flowing. An open-circuit fault willprevent a component from working.8 Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”somewhere in the circuit, which allows thecurrent flowing in the circuit to “escape” alongan alternative route, usually to earth. Short-circuit faults are normally caused by abreakdown in wiring insulation, which allows afeed wire to touch either another wire, or anearthed component such as the bodyshell. Ashort-circuit fault will normally cause therelevant circuit fuse to blow.

Finding an open-circuit9 To check for an open-circuit, connect onelead of a circuit tester or the negative lead of avoltmeter either to the battery negativeterminal or to a known good earth.10 Connect the other lead to a connector inthe circuit being tested, preferably nearest tothe battery or fuse. At this point, batteryvoltage should be present, unless the lead

from the battery or the fuse itself is faulty(bearing in mind that some circuits are liveonly when the ignition switch is moved to aparticular position).11 Switch on the circuit, then connect thetester lead to the connector nearest the circuitswitch on the component side.12 If voltage is present (indicated either bythe tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,as applicable), this means that the section ofthe circuit between the relevant connectorand the switch is problem-free.13 Continue to check the remainder of thecircuit in the same fashion.14 When a point is reached at which novoltage is present, the problem must liebetween that point and the previous test pointwith voltage. Most problems can be traced toa broken, corroded or loose connection.

Finding a short-circuit15 To check for a short-circuit, firstdisconnect the load(s) from the circuit (loadsare the components which draw current froma circuit, such as bulbs, motors, heatingelements, etc).16 Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit,and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to thefuse connections.17 Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind thatsome circuits are live only when the ignitionswitch is moved to a particular position.18 If voltage is present (indicated either bythe test bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,as applicable), this means that there is ashort-circuit.19 If no voltage is present during this test,but the fuse still blows with the load(s)reconnected, this indicates an internal fault inthe load(s).

Finding an earth fault20 The battery negative terminal is connectedto “earth” - the metal of the engine/transmission unit and the vehicle body - andmany systems are wired so that they onlyreceive a positive feed, the current returning viathe metal of the car body. This means that thecomponent mounting and the body form partof that circuit. Loose or corroded mountingscan therefore cause a range of electrical faults,ranging from total failure of a circuit, to apuzzling partial failure. In particular, lights mayshine dimly (especially when another circuitsharing the same earth point is in operation),motors (eg wiper motors or the radiator coolingfan motor) may run slowly, and the operation ofone circuit may have an apparently-unrelatedeffect on another. Note that on many vehicles,earth straps are used between certaincomponents, such as the engine/transmissionand the body, usually where there is no metal-to-metal contact between components, due toflexible rubber mountings, etc.21 To check whether a component isproperly earthed, disconnect the battery (referto Chapter 5, Section 1) and connect one leadof an ohmmeter to a known good earth point.Connect the other lead to the wire or earth

12•2 Body electrical system

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connection being tested. The resistancereading should be zero; if not, check theconnection as follows.22 If an earth connection is thought to be faulty,dismantle the connection, and clean both thebodyshell and the wire terminal (or thecomponent earth connection mating surface)back to bare metal. Be careful to remove alltraces of dirt and corrosion, then use a knife totrim away any paint, so that a clean metal-to-metal joint is made. On reassembly, tighten thejoint fasteners securely; if a wire terminal is beingrefitted, use serrated washers between theterminal and the bodyshell, to ensure a cleanand secure connection. When the connection isremade, prevent the onset of corrosion in thefuture by applying a coat of petroleum jelly orsilicone-based grease, or by spraying on (atregular intervals) a proprietary ignition sealer.

3 Fuses and relays - general information 1

Note: It is important to note that the ignitionswitch and the appropriate electrical circuit mustalways be switched off before any of the fuses (orrelays) are removed and renewed. In the event ofthe fuse/relay unit having to be removed. Whendisconnecting the battery, reference should bemade to Chapter 5, Section 1.

General1 Two or three fuseboxes are used on Rover800 models. One is located inside the car

under the facia on the driver’s side with anauxiliary fusebox alongside it, another islocated on the left-hand side of the enginecompartment and, on later models, a third islocated in the luggage compartment on theleft-hand side. The main vehicle system relaysare located on a relay panel behind the interiorfusebox, and also in the engine compartmentfuse and relay box. Additional relays arelocated in various locations according tomodel and equipment fitted.

Interior fusebox2 To gain access to the fuses, release theturnbuckles at the base of the trim panelbeneath the steering column, and lift away thepanel. The fuse locations, current rating andcircuits protected are shown on a labelattached to the inside of the panel. Each fuseis also colour-coded, and has its ratingstamped on it (see illustrations).3 To remove a fuse from its location, withdrawthe removal tool from the fusebox, push thetool over the fuse to be removed and pull outthe fuse (see illustrations). Refit the fuse bypressing it firmly into position. Spare fuses arelocated in a vertical row on the right-hand sideof the fusebox, or in marked vacant spaces.4 Always renew the fuse with one of anidentical rating. Never renew a fuse more thanonce without finding the source of the trouble.5 To gain access to the relays behind thefusebox, undo the two fusebox retainingbolts, one at each end, and ease the unitaway from its location. For greater access,mark the various wiring multiplugs to avoid

confusion when refitting, then disconnectthem and remove the fusebox completely.6 The relays can be removed by simplypulling them from their respective locations. Ifa system controlled by a relay becomesinoperative, and the relay is suspect, operatethe system and if the relay is functioning itshould be possible to hear it click as it isenergised. If this is the case, the fault lies withthe components of the system. If the relay isnot being energised, then the relay is eithernot receiving a main supply voltage, aswitching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty.

Engine compartment fuse andrelay box7 The engine compartment fuse and relaybox contains additional fuses, some vehiclesystem relays, and the main wiring loomfusible links.8 To gain access, press the upper edge of theretaining catch on the fuse and relay boxcover, lift the cover at the front and disengagethe rear tags (see illustration). A symbolidentifying the function of each fuse is markedon the cover.9 The fuses and relays can be renewed in thesame way as for the interior fuseboxdescribed previously. The fuse removal tool,together with the spare fuses, is located at thefront of the box. On certain models, additionalfuses and relays are located on the outsideedge of the box, with the fuses under aprotective cover. Lift off the cover to reneweach individual fuse (see illustration).

Body electrical system 12•3

3.3a Use the fuse removal tool (arrowed) . . .

3.2b . . . noting the fuse identification onthe rear of the panel

3.2a Lift away the trim panel for access tothe fusebox . . .

3.9 Additional fuse located under a coveron the outside of the fuse and relay box

3.8 Removing the engine compartmentfuse and relay box cover

3.3b . . . to withdraw the fuses from theirlocations

12

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10 To gain access to the wiring loom fusiblelinks, lift off the protective cover on the right-hand side of the fuse and relay box (see illustration). A blown fusible linkindicates a serious wiring or system fault,which must be diagnosed before renewing thelink.

Luggage compartment fusebox11 On later models an additional fusebox islocated in the luggage compartment eitherbehind the left-hand rear light cluster orbehind the left-hand side interior trim panel(see illustration).12 To gain access to the rear fusebox, eitherremove the protective cover at the rear of thelight cluster, or release the trim panel on theside of the luggage compartment. Fuse

renewal is the same as described previouslyfor the other fuseboxes.

4 Switches - removal and refitting 1

Note: Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead before removing any switch andreconnect the lead after refitting the switch(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).

Ignition switch/steering columnlock1 The ignition switch is an integral part of thesteering column lock, and reference should bemade to Chapter 10.

Steering column switches

Pre-1992 model year2 Remove the steering wheel as described inChapter 10.3 Undo the three lower screws and the singleupper screw, and remove the upper and lowersteering column shrouds (see illustrations).4 Release the fibre optic lead from thebulbholder by carefully prising up the plastictag (see illustration).5 Depress the retainers at the top and bottomof the switch, then pull the switch out of thesteering column boss (see illustrations).6 Disconnect the wiring multiplug andremove the switch from the car.7 The switch on the other side of the columnis removed in the same way.8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

1992 model year onwards9 Remove the steering wheel as described inChapter 10.10 Undo the three lower screws, and removethe upper and lower steering column shrouds(see illustration).11 Release the turnbuckles and lower thefusebox cover at the base of the steeringcolumn.12 On models without cruise control orairbag supplementary restraint system,remove the slip ring from the centre of theswitch assembly.13 On models with cruise control, and/or

12•4 Body electrical system

4.5b . . . and remove the switch4.5a Depress the top and bottom switchretainers . . .

4.4 Release the fibre optic lead from thebulbholder

4.3c . . . then lift off the steering columnshrouds

4.3b . . . and single upper screw . . .

4.3a Undo the three lower screws . . .3.11 Luggage compartment fusebox(arrowed) located behind the left-hand side

interior trim panel

3.10 Lift off the protective cover foraccess to the fusible links

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airbag supplementary restraint system,remove the rotary coupler as described inChapter 10.14 Slacken the retaining screw in the frontcentre of the switch assembly.15 Disconnect the four wiring multiplugs atthe rear, then withdraw the switch assemblyfrom the steering column.16 Undo the two screws securing theindividual switch to the main assembly.17 Disconnect the wiring multiplug at the rearand withdraw the switch from the mainassembly. Use a thin flat blade to release theswitch from its location as it is withdrawn.18 The switch on the other side of thecolumn is removed in the same way.19 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refer toChapter 10 when refitting the rotary couplerand steering wheel.

Centre console switches20 Carefully prise up the coin holder orswitch panel as applicable from the side ofthe centre console.

21 If individual switches are fitted, disconnectthe wiring multiplug, depress the lugs on theside of the switch and withdraw the switch fromthe coin holder panel (see illustration).22 If a multi-switch pack is fitted, disconnectthe wiring multiplug and remove the switchpanel complete.23 Refitting is a reversal of removal.Door switches24 Remove the front or rear door inner trimpanel as described in Chapter 11.

25 Release the switch pack assemblies fromthe rear of the trim panel and withdraw them.Note that the individual switches in the switchpacks cannot be removed separately. If any arefaulty, or if renewal of a switch is necessary, thecomplete switch pack must be obtained.26 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Courtesy light door pillarswitches27 Undo the retaining screw and withdraw theswitch from the door pillar (see illustration).28 Disconnect the wiring and remove theswitch. Tie the wiring to the door striker platewhile the switch is removed to prevent thewires dropping into the pillar.29 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Instrument cowl switch units30 Carefully prise out the rear of the coverplate at the extreme left-hand side of the cowland push the plate forward to release the frontclips (see illustration). Undo the screwbehind the plate, now exposed.

Body electrical system 12•5

4.21 Centre console switch removal

4.10 Steering column switch details on later models

4.30 Exploded view of the instrument cowl switch units4.27 Courtesy light door pillar switch

location

12

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

2 Shroud retaining screwsand lower shroud

3 Switch assembly centreretaining screw

4 Wiring multiplugs5 Switch assembly6 Individual switch retaining

screws7 Wiring multiplug8 Column switch

1 Cover plate2 Retaining screw3 Heater control knobs4 Retaining screw locations5 Switch panel multiplugs and

bulbholders6 Heater/air conditioning

control multiplugs and bulbholders

7 Vent panel retaining screws

8 Vent panel9 Switch unit

retaining screws10 Switch unit11 Heater/air conditioning

control unit retaining screws12 Heater/air conditioning

control unit

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31 Pull off the knobs on the heater controls.32 Undo the three screws securing the cowlto the facia above the instrument panel.33 Undo the two screws below the ventpanel on the driver’s side and the two screwsbelow the heater/air conditioning controlpanel.34 Release the clips at the top, at each end,ease the cowl away from the facia slightly,and disconnect the switch panel and heatercontrol/air conditioning wiring multiplugs.35 Remove the cowl from the car.36 Undo the four screws and remove thedriver’s vent panel.37 Undo the three screws and remove theswitch unit.38 Undo the four screws and remove theheater and air conditioning control unit.39 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Lower facia switches40 Refer to Section 12 for removal of theswitches on the clock console.

5 Bulbs (exterior lights) -renewal 1

Note: Ensure that all exterior lights areswitched off before disconnecting the wiringconnectors to any exterior light bulbs.

Headlight dipped beam bulbNote: On 1992 model year onwards vehicles,

remove the headlight lens unit first, asdescribed in Section 7, for access to the bulb.1 From within the engine compartment,disconnect the wiring multiplug at the rear ofthe headlight bulb, then pull off the rubbercover (see illustration).2 Release the wire retaining clip andwithdraw the bulb from its location in theheadlight lens unit (see illustration). Takecare not to touch the bulb glass with yourfingers; if touched. clean the bulb withmethylated spirit.3 Fit the bulb, ensuring that the lugs in thebulb engage with the slots in the lens unit.4 Refit the retaining clip, rubber cover andwiring plug. Ensure that the tab marked TOPon the cover is uppermost.

Sidelight bulbNote: On 1992 model year onwards vehicles,remove the headlight lens unit first, asdescribed in Section 7, for access to the bulb.5 From within the engine compartment,disconnect the wiring multiplug at the rear ofthe headlight bulb, then pull off the rubbercover.6 Withdraw the sidelight bulbholder from theheadlight lens unit and remove the bulb fromthe holder (see illustration).7 Fit a new bulb to the holder and fit theholder to the lens unit.8 Refit the rubber cover and headlight wiringplug. Ensure that the tab marked TOP on thecover is uppermost.

Headlight main beam bulbNote: On 1992 model year onwards vehicles,remove the headlight lens unit first, asdescribed in Section 7, for access to the bulb.9 Withdraw the plastic cover, release the wireclip and withdraw the bulb from the headlightlens unit (see illustration). Take care not totouch the bulb glass with your fingers; iftouched, clean the bulb with methylated spirit.10 Disconnect the wiring connectors andremove the bulb.11 Connect the wiring to the new bulb andplace the bulb in the light unit, ensuring thatthe flange cut-out locates in the housingridge.12 Refit the wire clip and the plastic cover.

Front direction indicator bulb13 From within the engine compartment,unhook the retaining spring and withdraw thelens unit and seal from the wing (seeillustration).14 Press and turn the bulbholder anti-clockwise to remove it from the lens unit;remove the bulb from the holder in the sameway (see illustration).15 Refit the bulb and holder, locate the lensunit in position and secure with the retainingspring.

Direction indicator side repeaterbulb16 Press the light unit to the right, free theleft-hand retainer and withdraw the unit fromthe front wing.

12•6 Body electrical system

5.14 Withdraw the lens assembly andremove the bulbholder

5.13 Unhook the direction indicator lensretaining spring

5.9 Withdraw the main beam bulb from theheadlight unit

5.6 Withdraw the sidelight bulbholder fromthe headlight unit

5.2 Release the wire clip and withdraw thebulb from the headlight unit

5.1 Disconnect the headlight dipped beambulb multiplug

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17 Turn the bulbholder anti-clockwise toremove it from the light unit, then remove thepush-fit bulb from the holder.18 Fit a new bulb, refit the bulbholder, andpush the light unit into position in the wing.

Front fog light bulb19 Undo the two upper screws and removethe light unit surround.20 Disconnect the wiring multiplug andremove the light unit from the front bumperassembly21 Release the rubber cover at the base ofthe light unit and disconnect the wiring at theconnector.22 Release the retaining spring clip andwithdraw the bulb and holder.23 Fit a new bulb then refit the components.

Rear light cluster bulbs

Rear wing light cluster24 From within the luggage compartment,release the trim covering (where fitted) foraccess to the light cluster.25 On early models, press the retainer on theaccess panel and remove the panel (seeillustration).26 Lift the top retainer on the bulb panel,press the two bottom retainers and withdrawthe panel (see illustration). On the later typebulb panel, press the top and bottomretainers together and remove the panel (seeillustration).27 Remove the bulbs as required by

depressing and turning anti-clockwise (seeillustration).28 Fit the new bulb(s), push the bulb panelinto position and refit the access panel and/ortrim panel.

Boot lid/tailgate light cluster29 On Saloon and Coupe models, unscrewthe plastic fasteners to release the boot lidtrim lining. On Fastback models, remove theplastic cover.30 Squeeze the plastic lever and withdrawthe bulbholder.31 Remove the bulbs as required bydepressing and turning anti-clockwise.32 Fit the new bulb(s), push the bulbholderinto position and refit the lining or cover.

Number plate light bulb

Saloon models - pre-1992 model year33 Open the boot lid, turn the bulbholderanti-clockwise and withdraw the bulb andholder (see illustration).34 Remove the push-fit bulb from the holder.35 Fit the new bulb and refit the bulbholder.

Fastback models - pre-1992 modelyear36 Open the tailgate, release the plasticretaining screws and remove the inner trim.37 Turn the bulbholder anti-clockwise andwithdraw the bulb and holder (seeillustration).

38 Remove the push-fit bulb from the holder.39 Fit the new bulb and refit the bulbholderand trim.

All models - 1992 model year onwards40 Undo the two screws and withdraw thenumber plate light unit from its location (seeillustration).41 Squeeze the two plastic tags together andrelease the bulbholder from the light unit (seeillustration).42 Remove the festoon bulb from the holder.43 Fit the new bulb and refit the bulbholderand light unit.

Engine compartment light bulb44 Open the bonnet, undo the two retainingscrews and remove the light lens.

Body electrical system 12•7

5.26b On the alternative bulb panel, pressthe top and bottom retainers together and

remove the panel

5.27 Rear light cluster bulb renewal

5.26a Lift the top retainer on the bulbpanel, press the two bottom retainers and

withdraw the panel

5.25 Press the retainer on the accesspanel and remove the panel

5.40 On later models, undo the number platelight unit retaining screws (arrowed) . . .

5.37 Number plate light bulbholder onearly Fastback models

5.33 Number plate light bulbholder onearly Saloon

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45 Push and turn the bulb anti-clockwise toremove it from the holder.46 Fit the new bulb, lens and retainingscrews.

6 Bulbs (interior lights) -renewal 1

Interior courtesy light1 Carefully prise the lens from the light bodyusing a thin blade (see illustration).2 Remove the festoon-type bulb from thecontacts.3 Fit the new bulb and push the lens intoplace.

Map reading and courtesy light4 To renew the courtesy light bulb, carefullyprise the light lens from its housing using asmall screwdriver.5 Remove the festoon-type bulb from thecontacts.6 Fit the new bulb and push the lens into place.7 To renew the map reading light bulb, removethe courtesy light lens as just described, andundo the two light unit retaining screws.8 Withdraw the light unit and remove thepush-fit or bayonet-fit bulb.9 Fit the new bulb and refit the light unit.

Vanity mirror light10 Move the light switch to the downposition.11 Carefully prise off the mirror surround fromthe light unit taking care that the mirror doesnot drop out as the surround is removed.12 Lift the mirror out and remove the festoonbulb(s) from the holder(s).13 Fit the new bulb(s), locate the mirror inposition and refit the surround. Ensure thatthe switch mechanism is aligned as thesurround is fitted.

Footwell and glovebox lights14 From within the glovebox or under thefootwell as applicable, carefully prise the lightfrom its location using a small screwdriver.15 Release the festoon-type bulb from itscontacts.16 Fit the new bulb and push the light backinto position.

Luggage compartment light17 Using a small screwdriver, carefully prisethe right-hand end of the light from its locationunder the rear parcel shelf on Saloon models,or on the rear side panels on Fastback models.18 Withdraw the light unit, turn the bulb anti-clockwise and remove it from the light unit.19 Fit the new bulb and push the light backinto position.

Instrument panel illuminationand warning lights20 Refer to Section 10.

Switch illuminationFacia switches and heater/airconditioner control switches21 Remove the instrument cowl as describedin Section 9.22 With the wiring multiplugs disconnected,remove the relevant bulb, which is a push-fitin the multiplug holder.23 Fit a new bulb, then refit the instrumentcowl as described in Section 9.

Hazard warning switch24 Lift off the switch lens on the steeringcolumn upper shroud, and remove the push-fit bulb.25 Fit a new bulb, and press the lens into place.

Steering column switches (earlymodels)26 Undo the three lower screws and thesingle upper screw, and remove the upperand lower steering column shrouds.27 Withdraw the bulbholder from the rear of

the fibre optic diffuser unit then remove thebulb from the holder (see illustration).28 Fit a new bulb, push the bulbholder intoplace and refit the steering column shrouds.

7 Exterior light units - removal and refitting 1

Note: Ensure that all exterior lights areswitched off before disconnecting the wiringconnectors to any exterior light bulbs.

Headlight lens unit1 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, removethe radiator grille as described in Chapter 11.2 Remove the front direction indicator lightassembly as described in Section 5.3 Disconnect the wiring multiplug at the rearof the headlight dipped beam bulb, andseparate the main beam wiring at theconnector (see illustration).4 Undo the two bolts securing the headlightlens unit to the front body panel. On latermodels, undo the additional screw on the sideof the unit accessible through the directionindicator light aperture.5 Release the unit from the lower lugs andremove it from the car (see illustration).6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Rear light cluster assembly

Rear wing light cluster7 Remove the bulb panel from the light unitas described in Section 5.

12•8 Body electrical system

7.5 Release the lens unit from the lowerlugs

7.3 Separate the headlight main beamwiring at the connector

6.27 Withdraw the bulbholder from thefibre optic diffuser unit

6.1 Prise off the courtesy light lens5.41 . . . squeeze the two plastic tags

together and release the bulbholder fromthe light unit

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8 Undo the four nuts securing the light clusterto the rear wing, and withdraw the unit fromthe car (see illustrations).9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Boot lid/tailgate light cluster10 Remove the bulbholder from the light unitas described in Section 5.11 Undo the nuts securing the light cluster tothe boot lid/tailgate and withdraw the unitfrom the car.12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Number plate light unit

Pre-1992 model year13 On Fastback models, remove the trimpanel on the inside of the tailgate.14 Undo the six retaining screws and removethe rear lens reflector and number plateassembly (see illustration).15 Undo the two screws securing eachnumber plate light unit and withdraw theunit(s) (see illustration).16 Turn the bulbholder anti-clockwise toremove the bulb, then remove the light unitfrom the car.,17 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

1992 model year onwards18 Refer to Section 5.

8 Headlight beam alignment -checking and adjustment 3

1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beamis only possible using optical beam setting equipment and this work shouldtherefore be carried out by a Rover dealer or service station with the necessaryfacilities.

2 Temporary adjustment can be made when the headlight unit has been removed and refitted, or to compensate fornormal adjustment whenever a heavy load is being carried. Turn the adjustmentscrews at the rear of the headlight unit to make the adjustment (see illustration).

3 Before making any adjustments to theheadlight settings, it is important that the tyrepressures are correct and that the vehicle isstanding on level ground. Bounce the front ofthe vehicle a few times to settle thesuspension. Ideally somebody of normal sizeshould sit in the driver’s seat during theadjustment and the vehicle should have a fulltank of fuel.

4 Whenever temporary adjustments aremade, the settings must be reset as soon as possible once the vehicle is in normaluse.

9 Instrument panel - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Undo the three lower screws and the singleupper screw, or three lower screws only onlater models, and remove the upper and lowersteering column shrouds.3 Carefully prise out the rear of the coverplate at the extreme left-hand side of the cowland push the plate forward to release the frontclips. Undo the screw behind the plate, nowexposed (see illustrations).

Body electrical system 12•9

7.14 Remove the rear lens reflector andnumber plate assembly

7.8b Removing the rear light clusterassembly

7.8a Rear light cluster side retaining nuts(arrowed)

9.3b . . . and undo the screw behind9.3a Prise out the instrument cowl coverplate . . .

8.2 Headlight beam horizontal adjustmentscrew (1) and vertical adjustment screw (2)

7.15 Undo the two screws securing eachnumber plate light unit

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4 Pull off the knobs on the heater controls.5 Undo the three screws securing the cowl tothe facia above the instrument panel (seeillustration).

6 Undo the two screws below the vent panelon the driver’s side and the two screws belowthe heater/air conditioning control panel (seeillustration).

7 Release the clips at the top, at each end,ease the cowl away from the facia slightly,and disconnect the switch panel and heatercontrol/air conditioning wiring multiplugs.8 Remove the cowl from the car.9 Lower the steering column as far as it willgo by means of the rake adjuster.10 Undo the two screws at each end of theinstrument panel (see illustration).11 Ease the panel away from the facia, thendisconnect the wiring multiplugs and the earthlead Lucar connector from the rear of thepanel.12 Remove the instrument panel from thecar.

Refitting13 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

10 Instrument panelcomponents - removal and refitting

1Early models1 Remove the instrument panel from the caras described in Section 9.

Panel illumination and warning lightbulbs2 The bulbholders are secured to the rear ofthe instrument panel by a bayonet fitting, andare removed by turning the holders anti-clockwise (see illustrations). Note that the

12•10 Body electrical system

10.2b Instrument panel warning light bulbrenewal

10.2a Exploded view of the instrument panel fitted to early models

1 Panel front illuminationbulbs

2 Low oil pressure warninglight bulb

3 Ignition warning light bulb4 High engine temperature

warning light bulb5 Low fuel warning light bulb6 Panel rear illumination bulb7 R/H direction indicator

warning light bulb8 Spare bulb9 Brake warning light bulb

10 Spare bulb11 ABS warning light bulb12 Spare bulb13 Spare bulb14 Spare bulb15 Sidelight warning light

bulb16 Main beam warning light

bulb17 Trailer direction indicator

warning light bulb18 L/H direction indicator

warning light bulb

19 Secondary printed circuit20 Main printed circuit21 ECU cover22 ECU23 Instrument panel body24 Front illumination prism25 Gauge illumination prism26 Side housing27 Warning light colour strips28 Faceplate29 Earth strap30 Screw31 Cowl and faceplate

9.10 Instrument panel right-hand sideretaining screws

9.6 . . . and the two screws each side atthe bottom

9.5 Undo the three cowl screws (arrowed)above the instrument panel . . .

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illumination and warning light bulbs arerenewed complete with their holders.3 If a faulty bulb is not accessible, undo thefive screws securing the ECU to the rear ofthe panel, and carefully lift the ECU upwards(see illustration). Take care not to strain theribbon connectors. The remaining bulbs arenow accessible.4 Refit the bulbholders by turning clockwiseto lock. Where applicable, lay the ECU inposition and secure with the five screws.

Instrument panel window andfaceplate5 Carefully release the eight clips, four at thetop and four at the bottom, securing thewindow to the instrument panel body (seeillustration).6 Withdraw the window and remove thefaceplate.7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Electronic control unit (ECU)8 Disconnect the two ribbon connectormultiplugs and the centre wiring multiplugfrom the top of the ECU.9 Undo the five screws and withdraw theECU from the rear of the instrument panel.10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Secondary printed circuit11 Remove the ECU as described previously.12 Undo the two voltmeter retaining nuts.13 Remove the bulbholders as applicable.14 Undo the five printed circuit retainingscrews.15 Release the five retaining studs.16 Ease the printed circuit off the twolocating pins, and remove it from the rear ofthe panel.17 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Main printed circuit18 Remove the instrument panel window andfaceplate, the ECU and the secondary printedcircuit as described previously19 Withdraw the warning light colour stripsfrom the front of the panel.20 Pull off the trip reset button.21 Disconnect the ribbon connector from thetachometer by carefully levering off the metalretainer with a small screwdriver. Remove themetal retainer from the ribbon.22 Remove the bulbholders.

23 Undo the nuts from the gauge studs.24 Release the two printed circuit retainingstuds.25 Ease the printed circuit off the locatingpins, and remove it from the rear of the panel.26 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Speedometer27 Remove the instrument panel window andfaceplate, and the ECU as describedpreviously.

28 Undo the three speedometer retainingscrews, release the wiring harness andremove the speedometer from the instrumentpanel.29 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Tachometer30 Remove the instrument panel window andfaceplate, and the ECU as described previously.31 Undo the two tachometer retainingscrews.32 Disconnect the ribbon connector from thetachometer by carefully levering off the metalretainer with a small screwdriver. Remove themetal retainer from the ribbon.33 Remove the tachometer from theinstrument panel.34 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Voltmeter, oil pressure, coolanttemperature and fuel gauges35 Remove the instrument panel window andfaceplate, and the ECU as describedpreviously.36 Undo the two retaining nuts and removethe relevant gauge as applicable.

Body electrical system 12•11

10.5 Instrument panel window upperretaining clips (arrowed)

10.3 Instrument panel ECU retainingscrews (arrowed)

10.39 Exploded view of the instrument panel fitted to later models

12

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Panel rear illumination bulbs2 Fuel system check warning light

bulb (where fitted)3 Ignition warning light bulb4 Cruise control warning light bulb

(where fitted)5 Direction indicator warning light

bulb6 Main beam warning light bulb7 Trailer direction indicator

warning light bulb8 Low oil pressure warning

light bulb9 Sidelight warning light

bulb10 Hazard warning light

bulb11 Brake warning light bulb12 Low fuel warning light bulb13 Transmission S4 switch warning

light bulb (where fitted)14 Catalyst overheat warning light

bulb (where fitted)15 ABS warning light bulb (where

fitted)16 Printed circuit17 Circuit board18 Circuit board cover19 Instrument panel housing20 Tachometer21 Temperature gauge22 Speedometer23 Fuel gauge24 Illumination bulb circuit board25 Panel illumination covers26 Faceplate27 Cowl and window28 Panel front illumination bulbs29 Trip reset button

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37 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Later models38 Remove the instrument panel from the caras described in Section 9.

Panel illumination and warning lightbulbs39 The bulbholders are secured to the frontrear of the instrument panel by a bayonetfitting, and are removed by turning the holdersanti-clockwise (see illustration). Note that theillumination and warning light bulbs arerenewed complete with their holders.40 If a faulty bulb is not accessible, undo thethree screws securing the circuit board and itscover to the rear of the panel. Remove thecover and carefully lift the circuit boardupwards. Take care not to strain the ribbonconnectors. The remaining bulbs are nowaccessible.41 Refit the bulbholders by turning clockwiseto lock. Where applicable, lay the circuit boardin position and secure with the cover andretaining screws.

Instrument panel window andfaceplate42 Carefully release the eight clips, four atthe top and four at the bottom, securing thewindow to the instrument panel body.43 Undo the four screws, two at each end ofthe instrument panel.44 Withdraw the window and release theadditional bulbholder at the rear.45 Pull off the trip reset button and removethe faceplate.46 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Circuit board47 Disconnect the ribbon connectormultiplug from the circuit board.48 Undo the three screws and withdraw thecover and circuit board from the rear of theinstrument panel.49 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Tachometer50 Remove the instrument panel window andfaceplate, and the circuit board as describedpreviously.51 Undo the three tachometer retainingscrews and withdraw the tachometer from theinstrument panel.52 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Speedometer53 Remove the instrument panel window andfaceplate, and the circuit board as describedpreviously.54 Undo the four small screws, and threelarge screws at the rear of the speedometerand withdraw it from the instrument panel.55 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Coolant temperature and fuel gauges56 Remove the instrument panel window andfaceplate and, if the temperature gauge isbeing removed, the circuit board, asdescribed previously.

57 Undo the three gauge retaining screwsand remove the relevant gauge from theinstrument panel.58 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Printed circuit59 Remove all the components from theinstrument panel as described previously.60 Release the printed circuit from the thirtyretaining pins and remove it carefully from theinstrument panel.61 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

11 Central control unit -description, removal andrefitting

1Description1 Later models are equipped with a centralcontrol unit (CCU) located under the faciabehind the fusebox (see illustration). Thefunction of the unit is to replace the variouscontrol units located behind the relay toweron earlier models, and to reduce thecomplexity of the wiring harness previouslyrequired.2 The CCU incorporates a diagnostic featurefor connection to a Rover dedicated testappliance.

Removal3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).4 Detach the access panel or fusebox coverbelow the steering column.5 Undo the retaining nut then withdraw theunit from the mounting pin.6 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs at the rearof the unit and remove the unit from the car.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

12 Clock - removal and refitting 1

Digital clock - early models

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Undo the two screws at the base of theoddment tray opening.3 Withdraw the oddment tray and disconnectthe clock wiring multiplug.4 Remove the oddment tray. Undo the twoclock retaining screws and remove the clock.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Digital clock - later models

Removal6 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).7 Carefully prise the clock assembly from thelower facia. The unit is retained by mouldedclips which compress as the unit iswithdrawn.8 Disconnect the multiplug and remove theclock from the lower facia.9 To renew the illumination bulb, turn thebulbholder anti-clockwise to remove.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Analogue clock

Removal11 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).12 Carefully prise the clock assembly fromthe lower facia. The unit is retained bymoulded clips on each side which compressas the unit is withdrawn.

12•12 Body electrical system

11.1 Central control unit attachments and connections

1 Unit retaining nut2 Central control unit (front

face)

3 Wiring multiplugs4 Central control unit

(underside)

5 Multifunction unit bracketscrews

6 Multifunction unit7 Audible signal unit

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13 Disconnect the wiring connector from therear of the illumination bulb. If the bulb is to berenewed, simply pull it from its location and fita new bulb.14 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs from theclock and side switches.15 Undo the four nuts and remove the woodfinishers from the panel. Carefully ease thefinishers from the panel which are secured bydouble sided tape.16 Release the clips and withdraw the clockand switches from the panel.

Refitting17 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

13 Trip computer - removal and refitting 1

Trip computer and vehicle map -early modelsRemoval1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 In order to release the trip computerretaining clips, two U-shaped rods (of the typeused for radio/cassette player removal) mustbe inserted into the special holes on each sideof the unit. If possible, it is preferable to obtainpurpose made rods from an audio specialistas these have cut-outs which snap firmly intothe clips so that the unit can be pulled out.3 Insert the special rods into the holes in theside of the unit until they engage the internalretaining clip lugs.4 Withdraw the unit from the lower faciasufficiently to gain access to the wiring at therear.5 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs andremove the complete assembly from the car.6 Release the eight retaining clips andremove the front panel.7 Extract the two metal clips at the top, andone at the bottom and separate the vehiclemap from the trip computer.8 Undo the retaining screw on the side ofeach unit and remove the locating plates.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Trip computer - later models

Removal10 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).11 Carefully prise the trip computer assemblyfrom the lower facia. The unit is retained bymoulded clips which should compress as theunit is withdrawn.12 Disconnect the multiplug and remove theunit from the lower facia.13 To renew the illumination bulbs, turn thebulbholders anti-clockwise to remove.

Refitting14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

14 Horn - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 From under the left-hand wheelarch, undothe two screws and one bolt securing theaccess panel and remove the panel.3 Disconnect the electrical leads, undo theretaining nut and remove the horn(s) from themounting bracket.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

15 Wiper arms - removal and refitting 1

Windscreen wiper arms

Removal1 Open the bonnet, lift the wiper arm slightlyand retain it in the raised position by insertinga pop-rivet, small drill bit or similar itemthrough the hole in the side of the arm (seeillustration).2 Unscrew the arm-to-spindle retaining nutand withdraw the arm from the spindle.3 If required, remove the blade from the arm(see Chapter 1) and pull out the rivet or drillbit. Relieve the spring tension of the arm asthe rivet or bit is withdrawn.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjustthe wiper arm park setting as follows duringthe refitting sequence.5 Switch on the ignition. Turn the wiperswitch on and off, so that the motor operatesthen stops in the park position. Switch off theignition.6 On early models, position the wiper arms so

that they are resting on the top of the stop-pegs on the windscreen finisher.7 On later models position the wiper arms sothat their top edge is 15 mm below the upperedge of the windscreen finisher.8 Engage the end of the arms with theirrespective spindles, and refit the retaining nut.9 Refit the wiper blades, remove the rivet ordrill bit, and position the arms in the normalpark position.10 Operate the washers to wet the screen,then operate the wipers.11 Switch the wipers off, and check that theypark with the blades in the position describedin paragraph 6 or 7, as applicable.

Tailgate wiper arm (Fastbackmodels)

Removal12 Lift off the cover over the wiper armspindle.13 Unscrew the wiper arm-to-spindleretaining nut and withdraw the arm from theblade.

Refitting14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butposition the arm along the bottom of thescreen with the motor in the park position.

16 Windscreen wiper motor andlinkage - removal and refitting 2

Wiper motor

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the wiper arms as described inSection 15.3 Carefully prise up the screw caps over thewindscreen finisher retaining screws at thebase of the windscreen (see illustration).4 Undo the screws on the finisher front face

Body electrical system 12•13

16.3 Prise up the windscreen finisherscrew caps

15.1 Insert a pop-rivet through the hole inthe wiper arm

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and on the extreme edges, then remove thefinisher from the car (see illustrations).5 Using pointed-nose pliers, release therubber sealing strip retaining clips (seeillustrations). Be prepared for some of theseclips to break during removal.6 Lift off the centre grille and the left-handplenum moulding (see illustrations).7 Working through the left-hand plenumchamber aperture, undo the retaining nut andremove the wiper linkage rotary link from themotor spindle (see illustration).8 Disconnect the wiper motor wiringmultiplug (see illustration).9 Undo the three bolts and remove the wipermotor and mounting bracket from the car (seeillustration).

10 Withdraw the seal from the motor spindle,then remove the seal from the mounting plate.11 Undo the three bolts and remove themotor from the mounting plate.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Wiper linkage

Removal13 Remove the wiper motor as previouslydescribed.14 Disconnect the primary link arm from thecentre spindle assembly by pushing down torelease the ball-and-socket joint. Remove theprimary link.

15 Undo the four bolts securing the centrespindle assembly, and the three boltssecuring the right-hand spindle assembly, tothe scuttle (see illustrations).16 Feed the right-hand spindle assemblythrough the scuttle aperture, and draw out thelinkage from the centre spindle opening.Remove the complete linkage assembly fromthe car.17 Further dismantling is not possible, and ifany of the parts are worn, a complete linkageassembly must be obtained.

Refitting18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuringcorrect orientation of the linkage components.

12•14 Body electrical system

16.9 Undo the motor mounting bracketretaining nuts (arrowed)

16.8 Disconnect the motor wiringmultiplug

16.7 Undo the nut securing the linkagerotary link to the motor spindle

16.6b . . . and the left-hand side plenummoulding

16.6a Lift off the centre grille . . .16.5b . . . and withdraw the sealing strip

16.5a Release the rubber sealing stripretaining clips . . .

16.4b . . . and at the extreme edges

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

16.4a Undo the screws on the finisherfront face . . .

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17 Tailgate wiper motor andlinkage - removal and refitting

1Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the wiper arm as described inSection 15.3 Release the plastic clip screws and removethe trim panel from inside the tailgate.4 Undo the large retaining nut from the wipermotor spindle.5 Disconnect the wiper motor multiplug, andrelease the wiring from its cable clip (seeillustration).6 Undo the two bolts securing the motormounting plate to the tailgate, then withdrawthe motor and mounting plate.7 Undo the three bolts and remove the motorfrom the mounting plate.8 Withdraw the seal, spacer and washercomponents from the motor spindle.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

18 Windscreen/tailgate/headlightwasher system components -removal and refitting

1Washer reservoir and pumpsRemoval1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Undo the screw securing the washerreservoir filler neck to the inner wing valance.3 Withdraw the filler neck from the reservoir,and disconnect the breather hose.4 From under the wheelarch, undo the twoscrews and one bolt securing the accesspanel, and remove the panel.5 Undo the three reservoir retaining bolts andlower the unit slightly.6 Disconnect the fluid hoses and wiringmultiplugs and remove the reservoir,complete with pumps, from under thewheelarch.

7 Remove the pumps as required from thereservoir by pulling them out of their locations.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Headlight washer jetRemoval9 Prise off the cover plate on the washer jet toexpose the two retaining screws.10 Undo the two screws and withdraw the jetfrom the front bumper.11 Release the water hose clip, disconnectthe hose and remove the jet.Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

19 Radio/cassette player -removal and refitting 1

Note: The following procedure applies to theinterior mounted radio/cassette, orradio/cassette/CD players. For proceduresapplicable to the luggage compartmentlocated CD player, refer to Section 20.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 In order to release the radio retaining clips,two U-shaped rods must be inserted into thespecial holes on each side of the radio (seeillustration). If possible, it is preferable toobtain purpose made rods from an audio

specialist as these have cut-outs which snapfirmly into the clips so that the radio can bepulled out. Note that on later models, it will benecessary to remove the two side bezels first,to allow access to the holes for insertion ofthe U-shaped removal tools.3 Insert the removal tools into each pair ofholes at the edge of the unit, and push thetools fully home to engage the radio retainingclips.4 Move the tools outward to depress theretaining clips, and withdraw the radio fromthe lower facia sufficiently to gain access tothe wiring at the rear (see illustration).5 Note the location of the speaker wiring byrecording the cable colours and theirpositions, then disconnect the speaker leads,aerial lead and wiring multiplug(s). Removethe unit from the car.6 Disengage the removal tools from theretaining clips on the side of the radio, andremove the tools.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

20 Compact disc player -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 From within the luggage compartment,

Body electrical system 12•15

17.5 Tailgate wiper motor multiplug (A)and mounting plate retaining bolts (B)

16.15b . . . and right-hand spindleassembly

16.15a Wiper linkage centre spindleassembly . . .

19.4 Withdraw the radio, using the tools torelease the retaining clips

19.2 Insert the radio removal tools into theholes on the edges of the unit

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disconnect the wiring multiplug from the sideof the unit.3 Undo the four nuts and remove the unitfrom its location.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

21 Speakers - removal and refitting 1

Rear speaker - Saloon andCoupe modelsRemoval1 From inside the luggage compartment,disconnect the two leads and undo the fourretaining nuts (see illustration).

2 Withdraw the speaker upwards into the car,and remove it from the rear parcel shelf (seeillustration).

Refitting3 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Rear speaker - Fastback models

Removal4 Undo the three screws securing the trimpanel to the parcel tray support and removethe trim panel (see illustration).5 Remove the speaker grille.6 Undo the six speaker retaining screws, liftthe speaker from its location and disconnectthe wiring connectors (see illustration).7 Remove the speaker from the car.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Front main speaker and filterRemoval9 Remove the front door inner trim panel asdescribed in Chapter 11.10 Undo the four screws securing thespeaker to the door (see illustration).11 Withdraw the speaker, disconnect theleads and remove the speaker from the door(see illustration).12 To remove the filter, cut off the tapesecuring it to the wiring harness adjacent tothe main speaker location.13 Disconnect the leads at each end andremove the filter.

Refitting14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Tweeter

Removal15 Refer to Chapter 11, Section 21 andremove the escutcheon around the door innerrelease handle.16 Rotate the tweeter clockwise to release itfrom the escutcheon, then disconnect theleads and remove the tweeter (seeillustration).

Refitting17 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

22 Aerial amplifier - removal and refitting 1

Saloon and Coupe models

RemovalNote: The aerial amplifier is located below therear parcel shelf on pre-1992 models, andabove it on later models.1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 On later models, remove the rear speakers(Section 21), fold the seat squabs forward andremove the parcel tray and insulation pad.3 From inside the luggage or passengercompartment, as applicable, disconnect the

12•16 Body electrical system

21.16 Disconnect the wiring and removethe tweeter

21.11 Withdraw the speaker anddisconnect the wiring

21.10 Undo the main door speakerretaining screws

21.6 Undo the six screws and remove thespeaker assembly

21.4 Remove the trim panel over the rearspeaker on Fastback models

21.2 Removing the rear speaker from theparcel shelf

21.1 Rear speaker retaining nuts (arrowed)on Saloon and Coupe models

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Page 229: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

two leads at the amplifier unit (seeillustration).4 Disconnect the two amplifier leads at theconnections to the rear screen demistingelement.5 Disconnect the aerial co-axial lead at theamplifier.6 Undo the two screws and remove theamplifier from under the parcel shelf.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fastback models

Removal8 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).9 Remove the trim panel from inside thetailgate.10 Disconnect the leads at the amplifier unitlocated behind the stiffener panel in thetailgate.11 Disconnect the leads at the connector tothe rear screen demisting element.12 Disconnect the aerial co-axial lead at theamplifier.13 Undo the two bolts and remove theamplifier from the tailgate (see illustration).Note that one bolt also secures the wiringearth cable.

Refitting14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

23 Power amplifier - removal and refitting 1

Facia-mounted amplifier - earlymodels

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Release the turnbuckles and remove thetrim panel over the fusebox, beneath thesteering column.3 Remove the radio cassette player asdescribed in Section 19.4 Disconnect the four multiplugs connecting

the speaker leads from the power amplifier tothe wiring harness. Record the colour codesof each lead to ensure correct connection onreassembly.5 Release the retaining stud and remove thesmall centre console trim panel from thefootwell on the driver’s side.6 Working through the trim panel aperture,disconnect the power amplifier wiringmultiplug.7 Undo the nut and two screws securing thepower amplifier mounting bracket under thefacia.8 Withdraw the amplifier, release the wiringharness, and remove the unit from under thefacia.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Luggage compartment-mountedamplifier - later models

Removal10 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).11 Remove the trim panel from the right-hand side of the luggage compartment.12 Disconnect the rear speaker leads at thespeakers or at the wiring connectors, andpass the disconnected leads through to theamplifier.13 Disconnect the two multiplugs and theDIN socket connector at the amplifier.14 Undo the two amplifier mounting bracketscrews, and remove the unit from the luggagecompartment.

Refitting15 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

24 Anti-theft system - general information

Later models are fitted with an anti-theftsystem as an additional security measure. Thesystem is armed automatically whenever thevehicle is locked (by key or infra-red handset);the system cannot be armed by pressing theinternal door lock buttons.

In the event of the vehicle being brokeninto, the alarm will be activated. It will alsosound if the ignition key is inserted into theignition switch whilst the alarm is armed, andadditionally, when the system is being armedand a door is not fully closed. Note that thebonnet must also be fully closed to enable thesystem to be armed.

On later models, an additional ultrasonicspace protection feature is incorporated intothe system. This uses two sensors mountedat the top of the left-hand door pillars todetect movement inside the vehicle (such asentry being gained through a broken window).In the event of such movement beingdetected, the alarm will be activated. Thisfeature can be disabled if required (forexample, if the car is to be briefly locked withanimals inside).

The anti-theft alarm system is controlled bythe ignition/starter circuit, the door courtesylight switches, the boot/tailgate light switchesand the central control unit (CCU).

25 Anti-theft systemcomponents - removal and refitting 1

Note: The following procedures apply tothose components dedicated to the anti-theftalarm system. Removal and refittingprocedures for the central control unit (CCU)and the door/boot/tailgate light switches willbe found in Sections 11 and 4 respectively. Atthe time of writing no information wasavailable relating to the ultrasonic spacedetection sensor.

Alarm siren

Removal1 Remove the wiper arms as described inSection 15.3 Carefully prise up the screw caps over thewindscreen finisher retaining screws at thebase of the windscreen (see illustrationoverleaf).4 Undo the screws on the finisher front faceand on the extreme edges, then remove thefinisher from the car.5 Using pointed-nose pliers, release therubber sealing strip retaining clips. Beprepared for some of these clips to breakduring removal.6 Lift off the centre grille and the right-handplenum moulding.7 Release the wiring harness from thesupport bracket and disconnect the wiringmultiplug.8 Undo the two retaining screws and removethe siren from the plenum chamber.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust thewiper arm park position as described inSection 15, when refitting the arms.

Body electrical system 12•17

22.13 Aerial amplifier unit retaining bolts(arrowed) on Fastback models

22.3 Aerial amplifier unit located under therear parcel shelf on early Saloon models

12

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Page 230: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Warning: Procedures for removal and refitting of the driver’s side airbag moduleand rotary coupler are given in Chapter 10, Sections 18 and 19 respectively. Thoseprocedures are provided solely to allow removal and refitting of the steering wheeland associated components as part of a normal repair operation. Do not attempt

to carry out any other work whatsoever on the airbag supplementary restraint systemcomponents. Any diagnosis or repair necessary, must be carried out by a Rover dealer.

Bonnet switch

Removal10 Open the bonnet and disconnect the in-line wiring connector to the switch.11 Compress the retaining clips andwithdraw the bonnet switch from themounting panel.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

26 Airbag supplementaryrestraint system - general information

Later models are fitted with a driver’sairbag, which is designed to prevent seriouschest and head injuries to the driver during anaccident. A similar bag for the front seatpassenger is also available. The two crashsensors which detect frontal impact arelocated on either side of the enginecompartment while the electronic control unitfor the airbag is located in the passengercompartment in front of the centre console.The airbag is inflated by an igniter, whichforces the bag out of the module cover in thecentre of the steering wheel, or out of a coveron the passenger’s side of the facia. A rotarycoupler behind the steering wheel at the topof the steering column, ensures that a goodelectrical connection is maintained with theairbag at all times as the steering wheel isturned in each direction.

12•18 Body electrical system

25.3 Anti-theft alarm siren unit location

1 Screw caps2 Windscreen finisher

retaining screws

3 Rubber sealing strip4 Plenum moulding5 Wiring multiplug

6 Siren unit retaining screws7 Siren unit

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Page 231: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Wiring d

iagrams 12•19

12

1380 Rover 800 S

eries Rem

ake

P

O

R

Q

L

J

K48

30

NK

NU

32

31

UN

NG

49

33

PN

P

50PN

B

MBB

NN

NN

BN

P

N

NP

WR

NW

R

Y

U

V

W

S

T

X

H

G

25

26

NS

NW

57

23

47

24

27

28

51

29

NS

NY

NO

NR

1N

IN

N

N

P

34PU

PB 35M

N37UG

38UK

UW 36

39 NW NS

46 BG

GY

GY

16

BR

BW

RS

B

2

GY

44

45

US

U

GY N NW

NW

Battery

Starter motor/solenoid

Starter solenoidrelay

Auto. gearboxinhibitor switch

Manifold heaterrelay

Headlightmain/dip

relayHornrelay

Headlightrelay

Radiatorcooling

fan relay

Fusebox

1

2

3

NO

SU

SRNY

PN

P

PO

31

2

3

4

9

4

5

6

NG

8

7

RB

14

15

7

8

6

13 R

SG

20

21

9

1019 S

RO

SO

LGS 5211

LGO 10

11

12

16

17

18

5

12

13

LGY14

GY

15

16LG

LGN17

LGW

18

19G

22WR

WR

24WR

N 57

N

Fusebox

Ignition/start

switch

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

Diagram 1: Main wiring diagram (typical) - single-point fuel injection models

H29042/A

Connection detailsNo. Diagram/grid ref.

1 1/M5,4/A12 1/H2,4/E4,4/M83 1/H2,3/D3,3/K3,4/C6,4/L1,10/C14 1/H2,4/A4,10/K15 1/H5,4/G4,4/L1,10/C16 1/F2,2/B67 1/H18 1/H1,2/A19 1/H2,2/F110 1/H4,3/J6,3/L611 1/H4,3/G6,3/J2,4/C6,4/J4,4/K8,10/K712 1/H4,4/C3,4/F6,4/G413 1/F3,3/F414 1/H3,3/C6,3/H3,4/E615 1/H3,2/B1,3/D6,4/D4,4/D6,4/E6,

4/K1,4/L4,9/F116 1/H5,2/B6,3/C1,3/H4,9/C517 1/H5,2/K418 1/H5,2/B6,3/E1,9/J119 1/F3,2/C620 1/H3,2/K1,3/E121 1/H3,2/H122 1/H6,4/J123 1/M1,4/C324 1/H6,1/M225 1/M3,10/B126 1/M3,9/B727 1/M3,2/E528 1/M4,3/C129 1/M4,9/G130 1/M5,2/B631 1/H2,1/M5,3/G332 1/M6,3/J333 1/M6,3/E6,3/J334 1/M7,3/H335 1/M7,3/E536 1/M8,3/F637 1/M7,2/E5,3/A5,4/M638 1/M8,3/C5

No. Diagram/grid ref.

39 1/H5,3/L641 1/H6,3/A342 1/H6,3/A3,4/M443 1/H6,3/H444 1/H8,2/D645 1/H8,2/D646 1/H5,3/L647 1/M1,3/J648 1/M5,10/J749 1/M6,10/J750 1/M6,10/L751 1/M4,9/C552 1/H4,10/L753 3/H6,4/K454 4/A1,4/J4,10/J455 4/B1,4/G156 4/B1,4/J1,4/J657 1/H6,1/M158 4/J1,9/D559 4/H1,4/H660 3/B1,4/L1,10/B161 3/D1,9/F162 3/D1,9/E163 4/K4,10/K764 3/H1,4/L465 3/L1,4/E6,4/M466 3/M1,4/D6,4/M467 4/J1,4/L468 3/H6,4/H769 4/F4,4/K870 4/F4,4/K871 4/H6,4/M672 3/F6,4/D6,10/K773 3/K4,4/D675 3/B3,10/D176 4/F6,4/M877 2/B1,2/H4,2/L4

41

42

43

2

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor6

Key to symbols

Earth andlocation

88

8

Connectionpoint input

Connectionpoint output8

Sealed joint

Fusible link

Fuse

M Motor/pump

Switchcontacts

Diode

Solenoid

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor

Earth point locations1 Behind RH headlight2 Behind LH headlight3 Behind facia4 Steering column bracket5 Base of LH 'A' pillar6 Base of RH 'A' pillar7 Base of LH 'B' pillar8 Base of RH 'B' pillar9 Beneath rear parcel shelf10 Beneath LH rear light11 Beneath RH rear light12 LH side panel in luggage

compartment beneath carpet

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor

B Black P PurpleG Green R RedK Pink S SlateLG Light green U BlueN Brown W WhiteO Orange Y Yellow

Wire colours

Diagram 1: Main wiring diagram (typical) - single-point fuel injection models

Page 232: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

12•20W

iring diagram

s

M

Windscreenwiper motor

Windscreenwiper delay

unit

Headlightwashmotor B

1

27 37

UG

SR B

1

WindscreenwashermotorB

M

1

LGB

M

6

B

18

16

14

2

153

8

23

22

9

10

21

26

24

11

13

Electricmirrorswitch

Four door windowlift control unit

6

5

19

1

4

OUY

77GY

RH rear windowlift switch

BB

2

B

M

U

R

Passenger's doorwindow liftcontrol unit

9 SR

15

Windowlift motor

8

M

U

R

SGWindowlift motor

RB

9

M

U

R

Rear LH doorwindow liftcontrol unit

Windowlift motor

RB

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

Diagram 2: Main wiring diagram (typical) continued - single-point fuel injection models

H29043

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor

B Black P PurpleG Green R RedK Pink S SlateLG Light green U BlueN Brown W WhiteO Orange Y Yellow

Wire colours

Windowlift relay

Windowlift relay

16 30 16 30

GY

NU

NY

6

B

GY

NU S

6

B

Windowlift relays

Windowlift motor

U

R

6

BS

U

M

21 20 SO

Rear RH doorwindow liftcontrol unit

OG

OY

77GY

LH rear windowlift switch

RB RB RB

6

B

UYUG

OUY

OYOG

YOU

OG

OY

77

GY

US

RS

B

Electric mirrormotor/heater

US

M

M

YS

YB

YLG

YG

G

G

G

18G

YU

YR

M

M

YU

YRYN

YO

YR

YU

YO

6

B

2

B

45

BU

Radiatorcooling fanthermostat

Radiatorcooling fan

motor

B

M

2

44

US

Headlightwash timer

unit

Windscreenwiper relay

Windscreen washer/wiper switch

6

B

6

LGN

17

LGN

OPSR

NLG

SU

NLG

WKSR

LGBSU

LGB

GS

LGU

LGG

GS

RLG

UG

LGB B

NS

8

6 19

1380 Rover 800 S

eries Rem

ake

Diagram 2: Main wiring diagram (typical) - single-point fuel injection models (continued)

Page 233: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Wiring d

iagrams 12•21

12

1380 Rover 800 S

eries Rem

ake

P

3433

Horns

PU

Heaterrelay

Recirc.light

Freshair light

Fresh airsolenoid

MHeatermotor

Circuit breaker

B

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

Diagram 3: Main wiring diagram (typical) continued - single-point fuel injection models

H29044/A

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor

B Black P PurpleG Green R RedK Pink S SlateLG Light green U BlueN Brown W WhiteO Orange Y Yellow

Wire colours

Aerial amplifierand isolator unit

Aerial andheated

rear window

5

60

PY

B

6

28 16

NY

GY Heated rear

window timer

5

BHeated rearwindow

switch/light

BG

61

YG

BG

BG

Recirculationswitch

GS

18 20

SOG

3

B

B

BSBOBY

Heater motorswitch

Flasherunit

B

6

62 64

LGU

11

8

Hazardswitch

Dir. ind.switch 12

6

10

5

LGN

LGP

11

32

LGY

UN

GR

65 66

Rep

eater light

RH

rear dir. ind

icator

B B BR

H front d

ir. indicator

Rep

eater light

LH rear d

ir. indicator

LH front d

ir. indicator

GW

6 11 1

B B B

2 10 2

Head

light dip

beam

Head

light main b

eam

Driving lights

37 UG

38

UK

Driving lights

Main b

eam w

arning light

Head

light main b

eam

Head

light dip

beam

42

41

BWBR

Sidelightrelay

31NG13 R

U7

9

2

1

4

Lightswitch

Headlightflasher

3

5

2

18

4

UBUO

BY

B

36

UW

16

GY

43

RS

Foglightrelay

14

RO

Foglightswitch

UB BGGB

73Foglight

FoglightB B BFoglight w

arning light

UY

11 6 6

UY

14

Sid

elightw

arning light

RH

Sid

elight

B B BN

o. plate light

RO

6 1 9

B B

11 11

RH

tail light

RH

tail light

LH tail light

No. p

late light

15

B B B

RB

10 10 9

BLH

side light

Glove b

oxlight/sw

itch

2 6

LH tail light

2

Bonnet

light/switch

33

Stop

-light

B BG

P

11 10

Stop

-light

72

P

Stop-lightswitch

Reversing light

11B B

11 12

Reversing light

LGY

Reversinglight switch

Headlightcut-off unit

B

Oil p

ressuretransd

ucer

68

LGR

Oilpressure

relay

Oil p

ressuresw

itch

B

53

WN

10

LGO

B B

12

M

Fuel pum

p

Resistive w

ire

W

47 NP

WKN

WS

WO

ULG

Temperature switch- manifold heater

Inertiaswitch

10

LGO

46

BG

BG

B

39

NW

Inletmanifoldheater

3Interiorlights

6

B

5

B

B B

B

Doorswitches

PW

PW

B

P

3

P

9

BP

K

Bootlight

switch

Bootlight

6

BHornswitch

PB 35

GWGR GR

Fuel pumprelay

75

B

Diagram 3: Main wiring diagram (typical) - single-point fuel injection models (continued)

Page 234: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

12•22W

iring diagram

s

60

PY

3

P

5

LGW

Radio/cassette

3

B

Speakers Speakers

Filter

BWBS

YYB

Filter

GGB

BPBU

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

Diagram 4: Main wiring diagram (typical) continued - single-point fuel injection models

H29045

11 No charge w

arning light

54

NY

NR

LGY

OP

4 spare w

arning lights

Y/R

63

AB

S w

arning light

O GO U WN

53

Oil p

ress. warning light

6

56 WB

Tachometer VoltmeterB

Panel illum

ination

R

B

RB

LGU

GW

GR

67 15 64 65 66

Sid

elight warning light

Trailer warning light

Dir. ind

. warning light

Dir. ind

. warning light

B B B B

BW

Main b

eam w

arning light

42

37

UGLG

YFuel level

warning light

Coolant tem

p.

warning light

Hand

brake

warning light

71

BY

Speedometer

4

B

Oil pressuregauge

Coolant temp.gauge

Fuelgauge

Instrument packmulti-function unit

68

59 GU

LGR

11 LGY

69

GB

70 2

76

BP

PN

BR

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor

B Black P PurpleG Green R RedK Pink S SlateLG Light green U BlueN Brown W WhiteO Orange Y Yellow

Wire colours

1

8

BN

Alternator

54

NY

Distributor

Ignitioncoil

5556

NK

WB

Sparkplugs

1 10

15

255 20 30 35 40

BB

8

Engine management ECU

23

WG

56

WB

12

GU

59

NK

55

Mainrelay

YN

Fuel injectorRLG

LG

Acceleratorpedal switch

N

Coolant temp.thermistor

Ambient airtemp. sensor

UG

Knocksensor

Inlet airtem

p. sensor

GB

Diagnosticsocket

BG

S

BS

Crank. sensor

WU

UP

KG

Throttlepot.

BO

WY

BS

YG

YP

BS

58 22

R

WR

WK

NK

GU

WB

Idle speedsteppermotor

KU

OG

OS

OU

OW

OW

N

WGNK

4

PO

Door lock motorcontrol unit

6

B

5

1

M M M M

OK Door lockmotors

9 7

2 4 8 6

OB

BO

BK

KB 6

B

2

B

Door lock switch

6

B

6715

R RB

Panel illuminationlight rheostat

resistor

5

BCigar lighterillumination

Cigarlighters

15

RB

B

2

PN

6

B

15

P RB

3 11

LGY

Clock

10B

72

GP

66 73 15

RB

65 14

Trailer socket

UY

GR

GW

RO

6970

GB

BP

Fuel leveltank unit

6

B

76

BR

12

LGSpeed

transducer

5

LGW

5B

Vanitylight

switch

Vanitylight

12

LG

5

B

Auto. gearboxselectorindicator

lights

B Handbrakeswitch

Brake padwear sensors

BY

BY

71

BY

B

Brake fluidlevel switch

BPGB

1380 Rover 800 S

eries Rem

ake

Diagram 4: Main wiring diagram (typical) - single-point fuel injection models (continued)

Page 235: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Wiring d

iagrams 12•23

12

1380 Rover 800 S

eries Rem

ake

Connection detailsNo. Diagram/grid ref.

1 5/M5,8/H12 5/H2,7/G6,8/E4,8/M83 5/H2,7/H6,8/C6,8/L1,10/C14 5/H2,8/A4,10/K15 5/H5,8/G4,8/L1,10/C16 5/F2,6/B67 5/H18 5/H1,6/A19 5/H2,6/F110 5/H4,10/L811 5/H4,5/H6,5/M212 5/H4,7/M413 5/H4,6/G4,7/J2,7/J6,8/C6,

8/H4,8/K7,10/K814 5/H4,8/B1,8/C2,8/F6,8/G415 5/F3,7/F416 5/H3,7/C6,7/H3,8/E617 5/H3,6/B1,7/D6,8/D4,8/D6,

8/E6,8/K1,8/L4,9/F118 5/H5,6/B6,7/C1,7/H4,9/C519 5/H5,6/K420 5/H5,6/B6,7/E1,9/J121 5/F3,6/C622 5/H3,6/K123 5/H3,6/H124 5/M3,10/B125 5/E5,5/M226 5/M3,9/B727 5/M3,8/C128 5/M3,10/E129 5/M4,7/C130 5/M4,8/E231 5/M4,7/E1,9/G132 5/M4,9/C533 5/M5,6/B634 5/M5,10/J835 5/H2,5/M5,7/G436 5/M6,7/J337 5/M6,7/E6,7/J338 5/M6,10/J839 5/M6,10/L8

No. Diagram/grid ref.

40 5/M741 5/M7,7/E542 5/M8,7/F643 5/M7,7/C5,8/M6,10/E144 5/M8,7/A546 5/H6,7/A347 5/H7,7/A3,8/M448 5/H6,7/H449 5/H8,6/D650 5/H8,6/D651 5/J2,8/J352 8/J1,8/J4,10/K853 8/E3,8/J454 8/C3,8/J355 8/B1,8/C3,8/H656 8/C2,8/F257 7/M4,8/D258 7/M4,8/F359 7/L4,8/F360 6/E6,8/K461 7/L5,8/F363 8/E3,8/H664 8/F3,9/C565 7/B1,8/L1,10/B166 7/B3,8/L1,10/D167 8/k4,10/K868 7/F6,8/D6,10/K869 7/D1,8/D3,9/F170 7/D1,9/E172 8/J1,8/L4,9/F173 7/H1,8/L474 7/L1,8/E6,8/M475 7/M1,8/D6,8/M476 6/F6,8/H777 8/F4,8/K878 8/F4,8/K879 8/D2,8/F6,8/M880 6/B1,6/H3,6/L381 8/H6,8/M682 7/J4,8/D683 6/G6,10/E1

P

O

R

Q

L

J

K34

30

NK

NU

36

35

UN

NG

38

33

PN

P

PN

B

MBB

B

WR

Y

U

V

W

S

T

X

H

G

26

NS

NW

11

27

28

32

29

NL

NY

NO

NR

1N

IN

N

N

P

40PU

PB 41M

N43UG

44UK

UW 42

GY

GS

18

BR

BW

RS

B

2G

Y

49

50

US

U

GY N NW

NW

Battery

Starter motor/solenoid

Starter solenoidrelay

Auto. gearboxinhibitor switch

Headlightmain/dip

relayHornrelay

Headlightrelay

Radiatorcooling

fan relay

Fusebox

1

2

3

NO

SU

SRNY

PN

P

PO

35

2

3

4

9

4

5

6

NG

8

7

RB

16

17

7

8

6

15 R

SG

22

23

9

1021 S

RO

SO

LGS 1011

LGO

5

12

13

LGY14

GY

15

16LG

LGN17

LGW

18

19G

WR

25

N

Fusebox

Ignition/start

switch

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

Diagram 5: Main wiring diagram (typical) - multi-point fuel injection models

H29046/A

46

47

48

WR

12

13

14

11

18

19

20

11WR

WR

N

N

N

N 25

NP

24

U

NB

31

51

BW

39

37

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor6

Key to symbols

Earth andlocation

88

8

Connectionpoint input

Connectionpoint output8

Sealed joint

Fusible link

Fuse

M Motor/pump

Switchcontacts

Diode

Solenoid

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor

Earth point locations1 Behind RH headlight2 Behind LH headlight3 Behind facia4 Steering column bracket5 Base of LH 'A' pillar6 Base of RH 'A' pillar7 Base of LH 'B' pillar8 Base of RH 'B' pillar9 Beneath rear parcel shelf10 Beneath LH rear light11 Beneath RH rear light12 LH side panel in luggage

compartment beneath carpet

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor

B Black P PurpleG Green R RedK Pink S SlateLG Light green U BlueN Brown W WhiteO Orange Y Yellow

Wire colours

Diagram 5: Main wiring diagram (typical) - multi-point fuel injection models

Page 236: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

12•24W

iring diagram

s

M

Windscreenwiper motor

Windscreenwiper delay

unit

Windscreenwashermotor

B

M

1

LGB

6

B

18

16

14

2

153

8

23

22

9

10

21

26

24

11

13

Electricmirrorswitch

Four door windowlift control unit

6

5

19

1

4

OUY

80GY

RH rear windowlift switch

BB

2

B

M

U

R

Passenger's doorwindow liftcontrol unit

9 SR

17

Windowlift motor

8

M

U

R

SGWindowlift motor

RB

9

M

U

R

Rear LH doorwindow liftcontrol unit

Windowlift motor

RB

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

Diagram 6: Main wiring diagram (typical) continued - multi-point fuel injection models

H29047

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor

B Black P PurpleG Green R RedK Pink S SlateLG Light green U BlueN Brown W WhiteO Orange Y Yellow

Wire colours

Windowlift relay

Windowlift relay

18 33 18 33

GY

NU

NY

6

B

GY

NU S

6

B

Windowlift relays

Windowlift motor

U

R

6

BS

U

M

23 22 SO

Rear RH doorwindow liftcontrol unit

OG

OY

GY

LH rear windowlift switch

RB RB RB

6

B

UYUG

OUY

OYOG

YOU

OG

OY

80

GY

US

RS

B

Electric mirrormotor/heater

US

M

M

YS

YB

YLG

YG

G

G

G

20G

YU

YR

M

M

YU

YRYN

YO

YR

YU

YO

6

B

2

B

50

BU

Radiatorcooling fanthermostat

Radiatorcooling fan

motor

B

M

2

49

US

Windscreenwiper relay

Windscreen washer/wiper switch

6

B

6

LGN

19

LGN

OPSR

NLG

SU

NLG

WKSR

LGBSU

GS

LGU

LGG

GS

RLG

LGB B

8

6 21

LGB

83

ULG

80

B

Oil p

ressuretransd

ucer

76

LGR

Oil p

ressuresw

itch

BW

N

60

Reversing light

13

LGYReversing

light switch

B B

11 12

Reversing light

1380 Rover 800 S

eries Rem

ake

Diagram 6: Main wiring diagram (typical) - multi-point fuel injection models (continued)

Page 237: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Wiring d

iagrams 12•25

12

1380 Rover 800 S

eries Rem

ake

P

Horns

PU

Heaterrelay

Recirc.light

Freshair light

Fresh airsolenoid

MHeatermotor

Circuit breaker

B

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

Diagram 7: Main wiring diagram (typical) continued - multi-point fuel injection models

H29048/A

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor

B Black P PurpleG Green R RedK Pink S SlateLG Light green U BlueN Brown W WhiteO Orange Y Yellow

Wire colours

Aerial amplifierand isolator unit

Aerial andheated

rear window

5

65

PY

B

6

29 18

NY

GY Heated rear

window timer

5

BHeated rearwindow

switch/light

BG

69

YG

BG

BG

Recirculationswitch

GS

20 31

NRG

3

B

B

BSBOBY

Heater motorswitch

Flasherunit

B

6

70

LGU

11

8

Hazardswitch

Dir. ind.switch 12

6

10

5

LGN

LGP

13

36

LGY

UN

GR

Rep

eater light

RH

rear dir. ind

icator

B B BR

H front d

ir. indicator

Rep

eater light

LH rear d

ir. indicator

LH front d

ir. indicator

GW

6 11 1

B B B

2 10 2

Head

light dip

beam

Head

light main b

eam

Driving lights

44 UK

43

UG

Driving lights

Main b

eam w

arning light

Head

light main b

eam

Head

light dip

beam

46

47

BWBR

Sidelightrelay

35NG15 R

U7

9

2

1

4

Lightswitch

Headlightflasher

3

5

2

18

4

UBUO

BY

B

42

UW

GY

RS

Foglightrelay

RO

Foglightswitch

UB BG

82

Foglight

FoglightB B BFoglight w

arning light

UY

11 6 6

16

Sid

elightw

arning light

RH

Sid

elight

B B BN

o. plate light

RO

6 1 9

B B

11 11

RH

tail light

RH

tail light

LH tail light

No. p

late light

17

B B B

RB

10 10 9

BLH

side light

Glove b

oxlight/sw

itch

2 6

LH tail light

2

Bonnet

light/switch

37

Stop

-light

B BG

P

11 10

Stop

-light

68

P

Stop-lightswitch

Headlightcut-off unit

12

Fuel pum

p

ULG

Inertiaswitch

LGO

6

B

5

B

Doorswitches

B

6

BHornswitch

PB 41

GWGR GR

Fuel pumprelay

66

B

Aerialco-axial

cable

73

4037

7574

18 48 16

B

12

M

W

59

WN

ULG

58

BS

57

BS

Lamb

da

heater

B

Lambdaprobe

61

U

Interior lights

5

B

BS

PLG

B

B

GOBLG

9

B

Boot light/sw

itch

PK

5

BP

K

Map

reading light/sw

itch

6

BP

K

Map

reading light/sw

itch

P

B

PW

Rear interior

lights

Footwell

illumination

P

3P 13LGY

2P

N

Interior lightdelay relay

Diagram 7: Main wiring diagram (typical) - multi-point fuel injection models (continued)

Page 238: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

14

PY

3

P

5

LGW

3

B

Speakers Speakers

Filter

BWBS

YYB

Filter

GGB

BPBU

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8H29049/A

13 No charge w

arning light

52

NY

NR

LGY

53

OR

4 spare w

arning lights

Y/R

67

AB

S w

arning light

O GO U WN

60

Oil p

ress. warning light

6

55 WB

Tachometer VoltmeterB

Panel illum

ination

R

B

RB

LGU

GW

GR

72 17 73 74 75

Sid

elight warning light

Trailer warning light

Dir. ind

. warning light

Dir. ind

. warning light

B B B B

BW

Main b

eam w

arning light

47

43

UGLG

YFuel level

warning light

Coolant tem

p.

warning light

Hand

brake

warning light

81

BY

Speedometer

4

B

Oil pressuregauge

Coolant temp.gauge

Fuelgauge

Instrument packmulti-function unit

76

63 GU

LGR

13 LGY

77

GB

78 2

79

BP

PN

BR

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor

B Black P PurpleG Green R RedK Pink S SlateLG Light green U BlueN Brown W WhiteO Orange Y Yellow

Wire colours

1

8B

N

Alternator

52

NY

Distributor

Ignitioncoil

1455

LG

WB

Spark plugs

1 10 15 255 20 30 35

40

B Fuel ECU

Mainrelay

Coolant temp.thermistor

Fuel temp.sensor

Throttle pot.

4

PO

Door lock motorcontrol unit

6

B

5

1

M M M M

OK Door lockmotors

9 7

2 4 8 6

OB

BO

BK

KB 6

B

2

B

Door lock switch

6

BR RB

Panelillumination

light rheostatresistor

5

BCigar lighterillumination

Cigarlighters

17

RB

B

2

PN

6

B

17

P RB

3 13

LGY

Clock

10B

68

GP

75 82 17

RB

74 16

Trailer socket

UY

GR

GW

RO

7778

GB

BP

Fuel leveltank unit

6

B

79

BR

14

LGSpeed

transducer

5

LGW

5B

Vanitylight

switch

Vanitylight

LG

5

B

Auto. gearboxselectorindicator

lights

B Handbrakeswitch

Brake padwear sensors

BY

BY

81

BY

B

Brake fluidlevel switch

BPGB

13

LGY

651772

66

B

Radio/cassette

B

8 8

B

54

WS

51

BW

57

69

79

BS

BG

BR OR

GU

30

59

56

NB

WN

KO

58

ULG

6461

R U

27

Fuelinjectors

6353

WG

8

WK

WLG

OG

OS

KG KB

Air flowmeter

Diagnosticsocket

NK

NK

KB

KB

GK

Air valvesteppermotor

YU

OU

KB

YB

LGK

NK

OW

N

YLG

OW

KGYLG

1

6

12

8

B

WB 55WS 54

LG 14KO 56

Program

med

ignition EC

U

Cranksensor

UP

WU

KG

Knocksensor

LGS

S

12•26W

iring diagram

s

1380 Rover 800 S

eries Rem

ake

Diagram 8: Main wiring diagram (typical) - multi-point fuel injection models (continued)

Page 239: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Wiring d

iagrams 12•27

12

1380 Rover 800 S

eries Rem

ake

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

Diagram 9: Typical air conditioning system (including engine cooling fan)

Mode motor/rheostat

Mode motor/rheostat

Amplifier

M

ABFDE

M

GHFIE

18

G

GBR

Y

YRYWGRYS

K

B

3

BCHBDGEF

A

J

BGHFIED

A

G

BRYW

YR

B

B

GR

UO

UG

62 61

YGBG

1567

RBR

B

29

NR

SY

SYYN

YN

Y

YGW

PWN

YSKG PW N WUO

UG

MZVOJC

N

ECU

UY

UY

GY

Blower assembly

Modemotor

M

V M

K L UAJ B

M

A B K L U M N O

Blowermotor

TNTM

JT

MO

Relay

S T J

TS

VJ

Relay

R

YX

H

W

J

S

BYWGY

X

Evaporatorsensor

70 69 1772

31 } Multi-point models {

} Single-point models {

Rear screen

dem

ister switch/

warning light

H

D

H

R

K

L

JCG

F

Switch illumination

Switchillumination

Illuminationrheostat E

V

Modemotor rheostat

Z

Facia switch pack

Condenser fanchangeover

relay 1

Relay 2

M

SU

2

BC

ondenser cooling

fan motor

SP

16 5158

18 32 1764Multi-point models {

Single-point models {

Radiatorcooling

fan relay

Radiatorcooling

fan motorGY

Magneticclutch relay

GY

2

GYB

UY

NO

GY

NOGY

1

B

1B

1

B

Rad

iatorcooling fan

Air con.

thermostat sw

itch

Cond

ensercooling fan sw

itch

UY

UY

U

M

US

UP

UP

NW

26

NO

GY

GY

R

B

Com

pressor

switch

R R

X

Dualpressure switch

UR

UYU

SK

X

SK

H29050/A

1 Battery2 Ignition switch3 Starter motor4 Distribution block5 Alternator6 No charge warning light7 Fusebox8 Spark plugs9 Ignition amplifier10 Distributor11 Ignition coil12 Diagnostic socket13 Tachometer14 Ignition pulse amplifier15 Cooling fan switch16 Cooling fan motor

B Black P PurpleG Green R RedK Pink S SlateLG Light green U BlueN Brown W WhiteO Orange Y Yellow

Wire colours

20

Diagram 9: Typical air conditioning system (including engine cooling fan)

Page 240: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

12•28W

iring diagram

s

} Multi-point models

} Single-point models

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

BA C D E F G H J K L M

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

Diagram 10: Supplementary circuits

H29051/A

753

P

5

LGW

RH rearspeaker

BWBS

YYB

Filter -speakers

GGB

BWBS

RH fronttweeter

RH frontspeaker

BS

BW

BP

BU

NNB

GGB

WWBG GB

RBR

Y YB

Filter -speakers

BW BS

BW BS GGBY YB

LH rearspeaker

LH fronttweeter

LH frontspeaker

R N W G BB

3

B

Power amplifierRRUB

25

NS

Radio/cassetteplayer

Filter -power amplifier

60

PY

PY

2465

3 5 66

83 43 28

Timer delayrelay

LGB

UG

NL

1

M

BS

R

BB

Washerpump M MDoor

lock motor

Doorlock motor

M M Doorlock motor

Doorlock motor

9 8 4 7 2 6 1 5

4

PO

6

B

KB

OB

B

B

O

O

K

BK

BO

B

O

O

K

K

K BK

BO O OB

KB

Central locking ECU1

2

3

OGONPO

Remote control

10 20

3414 28 2 35 18 19

15 32 27 29

ABS ECU

11 925 1 4 5 21 7 26 24

W W

Wheel speed sensors

GGY YRR12

BS

BS

BS ABS over-voltage

protection relay

6

Return pumpand relay

Solenoidvalve relay

M

9

11

13

Solenoidvalves

1 3 5 7 12 2

6

4

8

10

1

B

6

BY

WR

W YB

YU

UW

UB YG

UG YN

YR

} Multi-point models

} Single-point models

3910

52 50

PN

87

15

30

31

B

LGS

72

68

GP

63

67

GP

YR

11

13

ABSwarning

light

54

52

LGY

NY

49

38

PN

PN

48

NK

UW

UBHeadlight

relay12

Ignitionswitch

2

8

46

1

7

Fuse 16

Fuse 7Headlight

main/dippedbeam relay

2

B BWRS

GY

From headlightmain beams

From headlightchangeover relay

To radiatorcooling fan relay

Dim/dip relay

GY

W

RB

GYR

2

B

GY

Linefuse

UR

UR

85 UWGY

Headlightchangeover relay

Dim/dipresistor

UY

U

Headlightdipped beams

Fuse N

Fuse MUY

UY

BR

UK

UG

} Multi-point models

34

1380 Rover 800 S

eries Rem

ake

Diagram 10: Supplementary circuits

Page 241: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

MOT Test Checks REF•1

This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the samestandard as the professional MOT tester. However, working throughthe following checks will enable you to identify any problem areasbefore submitting the vehicle for the test.

Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the testerhas discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of suchdiscretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative orfriend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If thevehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester maybe more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle isscruffy and apparently neglected.

It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standardsare becoming increasingly stringent, although there are someexemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynespublication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).

An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.

The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

HandbrakeM Test the operation of the handbrake.Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicatesincorrect brake or cable adjustment.M Check that the handbrake cannot bereleased by tapping the lever sideways. Checkthe security of the lever mountings.

FootbrakeM Depress the brake pedal and check that itdoes not creep down to the floor, indicating amaster cylinder fault. Release the pedal, waita few seconds, then depress it again. If thepedal travels nearly to the floor before firmresistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair isnecessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there isair in the hydraulic system which must beremoved by bleeding.

M Check that the brake pedal is secure and ingood condition. Check also for signs of fluidleaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, whichwould indicate failed seals in the brake mastercylinder.M Check the servo unit (when applicable) byoperating the brake pedal several times, thenkeeping the pedal depressed and starting theengine. As the engine starts, the pedal willmove down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose orthe servo itself may be faulty.

Steering wheel and column M Examine the steering wheel for fractures orlooseness of the hub, spokes or rim. M Move the steering wheel from side to sideand then up and down. Check that the steering wheel is not loose on the column,indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.Continue moving the steering wheel as before,but also turn it slightly from left to right. M Check that the steering wheel is not looseon the column, and that there is no abnormal

movement of the steering wheel, indicatingwear in the column support bearings or couplings.

Windscreen and mirrors M The windscreen must be free of cracks orother significant damage within the driver’sfield of view. (Small stone chips areacceptable.) Rear view mirrors must besecure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.

1Checks carried outFROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

1Checks carried outFROM THE DRIVER’SSEAT

2Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLEON THE GROUND

3Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLERAISED AND THEWHEELS FREE TOTURN

4Checks carried out onYOUR VEHICLE’SEXHAUST EMISSIONSYSTEM

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REF•2 MOT Test Checks

Seat belts and seats Note: The following checks are applicable toall seat belts, front and rear.

M Examine the webbing of all the belts(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, seriousfraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasteneach belt to check the buckles. If applicable,check the retracting mechanism. Check thesecurity of all seat belt mountings accessiblefrom inside the vehicle.M The front seats themselves must besecurely attached and the backrests mustlock in the upright position.

Doors M Both front doors must be able to be openedand closed from outside and inside, and mustlatch securely when closed.

Vehicle identificationM Number plates must be in good condition,secure and legible, with letters and numberscorrectly spaced – spacing at (A) should betwice that at (B).

M The VIN plate and/or homologation platemust be legible.

Electrical equipmentM Switch on the ignition and check the operation of the horn.M Check the windscreen washers and wipers,examining the wiper blades; renew damagedor perished blades. Also check the operationof the stop-lights.

M Check the operation of the sidelights andnumber plate lights. The lenses and reflectorsmust be secure, clean and undamaged. M Check the operation and alignment of theheadlights. The headlight reflectors must notbe tarnished and the lenses must beundamaged.M Switch on the ignition and check the operation of the direction indicators (includingthe instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazardwarning lights. Operation of the sidelights andstop-lights must not affect the indicators - if itdoes, the cause is usually a bad earth at therear light cluster.M Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),including the warning light on the instrumentpanel or in the switch.

FootbrakeM Examine the master cylinder, brake pipesand servo unit for leaks, loose mountings, corrosion or other damage.

M The fluid reservoir must be secure and thefluid level must be between the upper (A) andlower (B) markings.

M Inspect both front brake flexible hoses forcracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn thesteering from lock to lock, and ensure that thehoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or anypart of the steering or suspension mechanism.With the brake pedal firmly depressed, checkthe hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.

Steering and suspensionM Have your assistant turn the steering wheelfrom side to side slightly, up to the point wherethe steering gear just begins to transmit thismovement to the roadwheels. Check forexcessive free play between the steeringwheel and the steering gear, indicating wear orinsecurity of the steering column joints, thecolumn-to-steering gear coupling, or thesteering gear itself.M Have your assistant turn the steering wheelmore vigorously in each direction, so that theroadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,examine all the steering joints, linkages,fittings and attachments. Renew anycomponent that shows signs of wear or damage. On vehicles with power steering,check the security and condition of the steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.M Check that the vehicle is standing level,and at approximately the correct ride height.

Shock absorbersM Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn,then release it. The vehicle should rise andthen settle in its normal position. If the vehiclecontinues to rise and fall, the shock absorberis defective. A shock absorber which hasseized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

2Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLE ON THEGROUND

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MOT Test Checks REF•3

Exhaust systemM Start the engine. With your assistant holding a rag over the tailpipe, check theentire system for leaks. Repair or renewleaking sections.

Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,and securely support it on axle stands.Position the stands clear of the suspensionassemblies. Ensure that the wheels areclear of the ground and that the steeringcan be turned from lock to lock.

Steering mechanism M Have your assistant turn the steering fromlock to lock. Check that the steering turnssmoothly, and that no part of the steeringmechanism, including a wheel or tyre, foulsany brake hose or pipe or any part of the bodystructure.M Examine the steering rack rubber gaitersfor damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.If power steering is fitted, check for signs ofdamage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes orconnections. Also check for excessivestiffness or binding of the steering, a missingsplit pin or locking device, or severe corrosionof the body structure within 30 cm of anysteering component attachment point.

Front and rear suspension andwheel bearings M Starting at the front right-hand side, graspthe roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clockpositions and shake it vigorously. Check forfree play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-ings, pivots and attachments.M Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and6 o’clock positions and repeat the previousinspection. Spin the wheel, and check forroughness or tightness of the front wheelbearing.

M If excess free play is suspected at acomponent pivot point, this can be confirmedby using a large screwdriver or similar tool andlevering between the mounting and thecomponent attachment. This will confirmwhether the wear is in the pivot bush, itsretaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the boltholes can often become elongated).

M Carry out all the above checks at the otherfront wheel, and then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers M Examine the suspension struts (whenapplicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,or damage to the casing. Also check thesecurity of the mounting points.M If coil springs are fitted, check that thespring ends locate in their seats, and that thespring is not corroded, cracked or broken.M If leaf springs are fitted, check that allleaves are intact, that the axle is securelyattached to each spring, and that there is nodeterioration of the spring eye mountings,bushes, and shackles.

M The same general checks apply to vehiclesfitted with other suspension types, such astorsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.Ensure that all mountings and attachments aresecure, that there are no signs of excessivewear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulictypes) that there are no fluid leaks or damagedpipes.M Inspect the shock absorbers for signs ofserious fluid leakage. Check for wear of themounting bushes or attachments, or damageto the body of the unit.

Driveshafts(fwd vehicles only)M Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspectthe constant velocity joint gaiters for splits ordamage. Also check that each driveshaft isstraight and undamaged.

Braking system M If possible without dismantling, checkbrake pad wear and disc condition. Ensurethat the friction lining material has not wornexcessively, (A) and that the discs are notfractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).

M Examine all the rigid brake pipesunderneath the vehicle, and the flexiblehose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafingor insecurity of the pipes, and for signs ofbulging under pressure, chafing, splits ordeterioration of the flexible hoses.M Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brakecalipers or on the brake backplates. Repair orrenew leaking components.M Slowly spin each wheel, while yourassistant depresses and releases thefootbrake. Ensure that each brake is operatingand does not bind when the pedal is released.

3Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLE RAISEDAND THE WHEELS FREE TOTURN

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REF•4 MOT Test Checks

M Examine the handbrake mechanism,checking for frayed or broken cables,excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity ofthe linkage. Check that the mechanism workson each relevant wheel, and releases fully,without binding.M It is not possible to test brake efficiencywithout special equipment, but a road test canbe carried out later to check that the vehiclepulls up in a straight line.

Fuel and exhaust systemsM Inspect the fuel tank (including the fillercap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. Allcomponents must be secure and free fromleaks.M Examine the exhaust system over its entirelength, checking for any damaged, broken ormissing mountings, security of the retainingclamps and rust or corrosion.

Wheels and tyres M Examine the sidewalls and tread area ofeach tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,bulges, separation of the tread, and exposureof the ply or cord due to wear or damage.Check that the tyre bead is correctly seatedon the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and

properly seated, and that the wheel is notdistorted or damaged. M Check that the tyres are of the correct sizefor the vehicle, that they are of the same sizeand type on each axle, and that the pressuresare correct.M Check the tyre tread depth. The legalminimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm overat least three-quarters of the tread width.Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrectfront wheel alignment.

Body corrosionM Check the condition of the entire vehiclestructure for signs of corrosion in load-bearingareas. (These include chassis box sections,side sills, cross-members, pillars, and allsuspension, steering, braking system andseat belt mountings and anchorages.) Anycorrosion which has seriously reduced thethickness of a load-bearing area is likely tocause the vehicle to fail. In this caseprofessional repairs are likely to be needed.M Damage or corrosion which causes sharpor otherwise dangerous edges to be exposedwill also cause the vehicle to fail.

Petrol modelsM Have the engine at normal operatingtemperature, and make sure that it is in goodtune (ignition system in good order, air filterelement clean, etc).M Before any measurements are carried out,raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow

the engine speed to return to idle, and watchfor smoke emissions from the exhausttailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously muchtoo high, or if dense blue or clearly-visibleblack smoke comes from the tailpipe for morethan 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a ruleof thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt(engine wear) while black smoke signifiesunburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or othercarburettor or fuel system fault).M An exhaust gas analyser capable ofmeasuring carbon monoxide (CO) andhydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such aninstrument cannot be hired or borrowed, alocal garage may agree to perform the checkfor a small fee.

CO emissions (mixture)M At the time of writing, the maximum COlevel at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used afterAugust 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.From January 1996 a much tighter limit(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equippedvehicles first used from August 1992. If theCO level cannot be reduced far enough topass the test (and the fuel and ignitionsystems are otherwise in good condition) thenthe carburettor is badly worn, or there is someproblem in the fuel injection system orcatalytic converter (as applicable).

HC emissionsM With the CO emissions within limits, HCemissions must be no more than 1200 ppm(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this testat idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, thiscounts as a pass.M Excessive HC emissions can be caused byoil being burnt, but they are more likely to bedue to unburnt fuel.

Diesel modelsM The only emission test applicable to Dieselengines is the measuring of exhaust smokedensity. The test involves accelerating theengine several times to its maximumunloaded speed.

Note: It is of the utmost importance that theengine timing belt is in good condition beforethe test is carried out.

M Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirtyair cleaner element. Otherwise, professionaladvice may be needed to find the cause.

4Checks carried out onYOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUSTEMISSION SYSTEM

Page 245: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

General Repair Procedures REF•5

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul workis carried out on the car or its components,observe the following procedures andinstructions. This will assist in carrying out theoperation efficiently and to a professionalstandard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gasketsWhen separating components at their

mating faces, never insert screwdrivers orsimilar implements into the joint between thefaces in order to prise them apart. This cancause severe damage which results in oilleaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.Separation is usually achieved by tappingalong the joint with a soft-faced hammer inorder to break the seal. However, note thatthis method may not be suitable wheredowels are used for component location.

Where a gasket is used between the matingfaces of two components, a new one must befitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwisestated in the repair procedure. Make sure thatthe mating faces are clean and dry, with alltraces of old gasket removed. When cleaning ajoint face, use a tool which is unlikely to scoreor damage the face, and remove any burrs ornicks with an oilstone or fine file.

Make sure that tapped holes are cleanedwith a pipe cleaner, and keep them free ofjointing compound, if this is being used,unless specifically instructed otherwise.

Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipesare clear, and blow through them, preferablyusing compressed air.

Oil sealsOil seals can be removed by levering them

out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver orsimilar implement. Alternatively, a number ofself-tapping screws may be screwed into theseal, and these used as a purchase for pliers orsome similar device in order to pull the seal free.

Whenever an oil seal is removed from itsworking location, either individually or as partof an assembly, it should be renewed.

The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easilydamaged, and will not seal if the surface itcontacts is not completely clean and free fromscratches, nicks or grooves. If the originalsealing surface of the component cannot berestored, and the manufacturer has not madeprovision for slight relocation of the sealrelative to the sealing surface, the componentshould be renewed.

Protect the lips of the seal from any surfacewhich may damage them in the course offitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve wherepossible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil beforefitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the spacebetween the lips with grease.

Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must befitted with their sealing lips toward thelubricant to be sealed.

Use a tubular drift or block of wood of theappropriate size to install the seal and, if theseal housing is shouldered, drive the sealdown to the shoulder. If the seal housing is

unshouldered, the seal should be fitted withits face flush with the housing top face (unlessotherwise instructed).

Screw threads and fasteningsSeized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a

common occurrence where corrosion has setin, and the use of penetrating oil or releasingfluid will often overcome this problem if theoffending item is soaked for a while beforeattempting to release it. The use of an impactdriver may also provide a means of releasingsuch stubborn fastening devices, when usedin conjunction with the appropriatescrewdriver bit or socket. If none of thesemethods works, it may be necessary to resortto the careful application of heat, or the use ofa hacksaw or nut splitter device.

Studs are usually removed by locking twonuts together on the threaded part, and thenusing a spanner on the lower nut to unscrewthe stud. Studs or bolts which have broken offbelow the surface of the component in whichthey are mounted can sometimes be removedusing a stud extractor. Always ensure that ablind tapped hole is completely free from oil,grease, water or other fluid before installingthe bolt or stud. Failure to do this could causethe housing to crack due to the hydraulicaction of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.

When tightening a castellated nut to accepta split pin, tighten the nut to the specifiedtorque, where applicable, and then tightenfurther to the next split pin hole. Never slackenthe nut to align the split pin hole, unless statedin the repair procedure.

When checking or retightening a nut or boltto a specified torque setting, slacken the nutor bolt by a quarter of a turn, and thenretighten to the specified setting. However,this should not be attempted where angulartightening has been used.

For some screw fastenings, notablycylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrenchsettings are no longer specified for the latterstages of tightening, “angle-tightening” beingcalled up instead. Typically, a fairly low torquewrench setting will be applied to thebolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followedby one or more stages of tightening throughspecified angles.

Locknuts, locktabs and washersAny fastening which will rotate against a

component or housing during tighteningshould always have a washer between it andthe relevant component or housing.

Spring or split washers should always berenewed when they are used to lock a criticalcomponent such as a big-end bearingretaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which arefolded over to retain a nut or bolt shouldalways be renewed.

Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-critical areas, providing resistance can be feltwhen the locking portion passes over the boltor stud thread. However, it should be notedthat self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their

effectiveness after long periods of use, andshould then be renewed as a matter of course.

Split pins must always be replaced withnew ones of the correct size for the hole.

When thread-locking compound is foundon the threads of a fastener which is to be re-used, it should be cleaned off with a wirebrush and solvent, and fresh compoundapplied on reassembly.

Special toolsSome repair procedures in this manual

entail the use of special tools such as a press,two or three-legged pullers, spring com-pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitablereadily-available alternatives to the manu-facturer’s special tools are described, and areshown in use. In some instances, where noalternative is possible, it has been necessaryto resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,and this has been done for reasons of safetyas well as the efficient completion of the repairoperation. Unless you are highly-skilled andhave a thorough understanding of theprocedures described, never attempt tobypass the use of any special tool when theprocedure described specifies its use. Notonly is there a very great risk of personalinjury, but expensive damage could becaused to the components involved.

Environmental considerationsWhen disposing of used engine oil, brake

fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration toany detrimental environmental effects. Do not,for instance, pour any of the above liquidsdown drains into the general sewage system,or onto the ground to soak away. Many localcouncil refuse tips provide a facility for wasteoil disposal, as do some garages. If none ofthese facilities are available, consult your localEnvironmental Health Department, or theNational Rivers Authority, for further advice.

With the universal tightening-up of legis-lation regarding the emission of environmen-tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,most vehicles have tamperproof devices fittedto the main adjustment points of the fuelsystem. These devices are primarily designedto prevent unqualified persons from adjustingthe fuel/air mixture, with the chance of aconsequent increase in toxic emissions. Ifsuch devices are found during servicing oroverhaul, they should, wherever possible, berenewed or refitted in accordance with themanufacturer’s requirements or currentlegislation.

Note: It isantisocial andillegal to dumpoil down thedrain. To findthe location ofyour local oilrecyclingbank, call thisnumber free.

Page 246: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

IntroductionA selection of good tools is a fundamental

requirement for anyone contemplating themaintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.For the owner who does not possess any,their purchase will prove a considerableexpense, offsetting some of the savings madeby doing-it-yourself. However, provided thatthe tools purchased meet the relevant nationalsafety standards and are of good quality, theywill last for many years and prove anextremely worthwhile investment.

To help the average owner to decide whichtools are needed to carry out the various tasksdetailed in this manual, we have compiledthree lists of tools under the followingheadings: Maintenance and minor repair,Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomersto practical mechanics should start off withthe Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, andconfine themselves to the simpler jobs aroundthe vehicle. Then, as confidence andexperience grow, more difficult tasks can beundertaken, with extra tools being purchasedas, and when, they are needed. In this way, aMaintenance and minor repair tool kit can bebuilt up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit overa considerable period of time, without anymajor cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough formost repair and overhaul procedures, and willadd tools from the Special category when it isfelt that the expense is justified by the amountof use to which these tools will be put.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

The tools given in this list should beconsidered as a minimum requirement ifroutine maintenance, servicing and minorrepair operations are to be undertaken. Werecommend the purchase of combinationspanners (ring one end, open-ended theother); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages ofboth types of spanner.M Combination spanners: 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13,

14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 22, 24 & 26 mmM Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)M Transmission drain plug keyM Set of feeler gaugesM Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert)M Spark plug gap adjustment toolM Brake bleed nipple spannerM Brake adjuster spannerM Screwdrivers: Flat blade and cross blade –

approx 100 mm long x 6 mm diaM Combination pliersM Hacksaw (junior)M Tyre pumpM Tyre pressure gaugeM Grease gunM Oil canM Oil filter removal toolM Fine emery clothM Wire brush (small)M Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kitThese tools are virtually essential for

anyone undertaking any major repairs to amotor vehicle, and are additional to thosegiven in the Maintenance and minor repair list.Included in this list is a comprehensive set ofsockets. Although these are expensive, theywill be found invaluable as they are soversatile - particularly if various drives areincluded in the set. We recommend the half-inch square-drive type, as this can be usedwith most proprietary torque wrenches. If youcannot afford a socket set, even boughtpiecemeal, then inexpensive tubular boxspanners are a useful alternative.

The tools in this list will occasionally needto be supplemented by tools from the Speciallist:M Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in

previous list M Reversible ratchet drive (for use with

sockets) (see illustration)M Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with

sockets)M Universal joint (for use with sockets)M Torque wrench (for use with sockets)M Self-locking gripsM Ball pein hammerM Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or

rubber)M Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby), and narrow (electrician’s) typesCross blade - Long & sturdy, and short(chubby) types

M Pliers:Long-nosedSide cutters (electrician’s)Circlip (internal and external)

M Cold chisel - 25 mmM ScriberM ScraperM Centre-punchM Pin punchM HacksawM Brake hose clampM Brake bleeding kitM Selection of twist drills

M Steel rule/straight-edgeM Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (see

illustrations)M Selection of filesM Wire brushM Axle standsM Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)M Light with extension lead

Special toolsThe tools in this list are those which are not

used regularly, are expensive to buy, or whichneed to be used in accordance with theirmanufacturers’ instructions. Unless relativelydifficult mechanical jobs are undertakenfrequently, it will not be economic to buymany of these tools. Where this is the case,you could consider clubbing together withfriends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make ajoint purchase, or borrowing the tools againsta deposit from a local garage or tool hirespecialist. It is worth noting that many of thelarger DIY superstores now carry a largerange of special tools for hire at modest rates.

The following list contains only those toolsand instruments freely available to the public,and not those special tools produced by thevehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealernetwork. You will find occasional referencesto these manufacturers’ special tools in thetext of this manual. Generally, an alternativemethod of doing the job without the vehiclemanufacturers’ special tool is given. However,sometimes there is no alternative to usingthem. Where this is the case and the relevanttool cannot be bought or borrowed, you willhave to entrust the work to a franchisedgarage.M Valve spring compressor (see illustration)M Valve grinding toolM Piston ring compressor (see illustration)M Piston ring removal/installation tool (see

illustration)M Cylinder bore hone (see illustration)M Balljoint separatorM Coil spring compressors (where applicable)M Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller

(see illustration)

REF•6 Tools and Working Facilities

Sockets and reversible ratchet drive Spline bit set

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Tools and Working Facilities REF•7

Spline key set Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor

Compression testing gauge Clutch plate alignment set Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool

Piston ring removal/installation tool Cylinder bore hone Three-legged hub and bearing puller

Micrometer set Vernier calipers Dial test indicator and magnetic stand

Page 248: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

REF•8 Tools and Working FacilitiesM Impact screwdriverM Micrometer and/or vernier calipers (see

illustrations)M Dial gauge (see illustration)M Universal electrical multi-meterM Cylinder compression gauge

(see illustration)M Clutch plate alignment set (see

illustration)M Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool

(see illustration)M Bush and bearing removal/installation set

(see illustration)M Stud extractors (see illustration)M Tap and die set (see illustration)M Lifting tackleM Trolley jack

Buying toolsFor practically all tools, a tool factor is the

best source, since he will have a verycomprehensive range compared with theaverage garage or accessory shop. Havingsaid that, accessory shops often offerexcellent quality tools at discount prices, so itpays to shop around.

Remember, you don’t have to buy the mostexpensive items on the shelf, but it is alwaysadvisable to steer clear of the very cheaptools. There are plenty of good tools around at

reasonable prices, but always aim topurchase items which meet the relevantnational safety standards. If in doubt, ask theproprietor or manager of the shop for advicebefore making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of toolsHaving purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is

necessary to keep the tools in a clean andserviceable condition. After use, always wipeoff any dirt, grease and metal particles using aclean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.Never leave them lying around after they havebeen used. A simple tool rack on the garageor workshop wall for items such asscrewdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Storeall normal spanners and sockets in a metalbox. Any measuring instruments, gauges,meters, etc, must be carefully stored wherethey cannot be damaged or become rusty.

Take a little care when tools are used.Hammer heads inevitably become marked,and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on theirblades from time to time. A little timelyattention with emery cloth or a file will soonrestore items like this to a good serviceablefinish.

Working facilitiesNot to be forgotten when discussing tools

is the workshop itself. If anything more thanroutine maintenance is to be carried out,some form of suitable working area becomesessential.

It is appreciated that many an owner-mechanic is forced by circumstances toremove an engine or similar item without thebenefit of a garage or workshop. Having donethis, any repairs should always be done underthe cover of a roof.

Wherever possible, any dismantling shouldbe done on a clean, flat workbench or table ata suitable working height.

Any workbench needs a vice; one with ajaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for mostjobs. As mentioned previously, some cleandry storage space is also required for tools, aswell as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids,touch-up paints and so on, which becomenecessary.

Another item which may be required, andwhich has a much more general usage, is anelectric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8mm. This, together with a good range of twistdrills, is virtually essential for fittingaccessories.

Last, but not least, always keep a supply ofold newspapers and clean, lint-free ragsavailable, and try to keep any working area asclean as possible.

Bush and bearing removal/installation set Stud extractor set Tap and die set

Page 249: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Buying Spare Parts & Vehicle Identification Numbers REF•9

Buying spare partsSpare parts are available from many

sources, including maker’s appointedgarages, accessory shops, and motor factors.To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, itwill sometimes be necessary to quote thevehicle identification number. If possible, itcan also be useful to take the old parts alongfor positive identification. Items such asstarter motors and alternators may beavailable under a service exchange scheme -any parts returned should always be clean.

Our advice regarding spare part sources isas follows.

Officially-appointed garagesThis is the best source of parts which are

peculiar to your car, and are not otherwisegenerally available (eg badges, interior trim,certain body panels, etc). It is also the onlyplace at which you should buy parts if thevehicle is still under warranty.

Accessory shopsThese are very good places to buy

materials and components needed for themaintenance of your car (oil, air and fuelfilters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oilsand greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).Components of this nature sold by areputable shop are of the same standard asthose used by the car manufacturer.

Besides components, these shops also selltools and general accessories, usually haveconvenient opening hours, charge lowerprices, and can often be found not far fromhome. Some accessory shops have partscounters where the components needed foralmost any repair job can be purchased orordered.

Motor factorsGood factors will stock all the more

important components which wear outcomparatively quickly and can sometimessupply individual components needed for theoverhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake sealsand hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,valves, alternator brushes). They may alsohandle work such as cylinder block reboring,crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.

Tyre and exhaust specialistsThese outlets may be independent or

members of a local or national chain. Theyfrequently offer competitive prices whencompared with a main dealer or local garage,but it will pay to obtain several quotes beforemaking a decision. When researching prices,also ask what ‘extras’ may be added - forinstance, fitting a new valve and balancing thewheel are both commonly charged on top ofthe price of a new tyre.

Other sourcesBeware of parts or materials obtained from

market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.Such items are not invariably sub-standard,but there is little chance of compensation ifthey do prove unsatisfactory. In the case ofsafety-critical components such as brakepads there is the risk not only of financial lossbut also of an accident causing injury ordeath.

Second-hand components or assembliesobtained from a car breaker can be a goodbuy in some circumstances, but this sort ofpurchase is best made by the experiencedDIY mechanic.

Vehicle identificationnumbers

Modifications are a continuing andunpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,quite apart from major model changes. Spareparts manuals and lists are compiled upon anumerical basis, the individual vehicle identifi-cation numbers being essential to correctidentification of the component concerned.

When ordering spare parts, always give asmuch information as possible. Quote thevehicle model, year of manufacture, body andengine numbers as appropriate.

The vehicle identification plate is located onthe bonnet lock platform behind the right-handheadlight on early models, and on the left-handdoor pillar below the door lock striker pin onlater models. In addition to many other details,it carries the Vehicle Identification Number(VIN), maximum vehicle weight information,and codes for interior trim and body colours.

The Vehicle Identification Number is givenon the vehicle identification plate. On latermodels, it is also located on a plate visiblethrough the left-hand side of the windscreen

The body number and paint code numbersare located on the vehicle identification plate.

The engine number location is dependenton the engine type. On 4-cylinder M-seriesengines (pre-1992 model year) the enginenumber is stamped on the rear face of thecylinder block, below the cylinder head. On 4-cylinder T-series engines (1992 model yearonwards) the engine number is stamped on aplate on the forward facing side of the cylinderblock just above the sump flange.

On V6 engines, the engine number isstamped on the face of the cylinder blockforward facing bank, adjacent to the timingbelt cover.

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REF•10 Fault Finding

Enginemm Engine fails to rotate when attempting to startmm Engine rotates but will not startmm Engine difficult to start when coldmm Engine difficult to start when hotmm Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagementmm Engine starts but stops immediatelymm Engine idles erraticallymm Engine misfires at idle speedmm Engine misfires throughout the driving speed rangemm Engine hesitates on accelerationmm Engine stallsmm Engine lacks powermm Engine backfiresmm Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine runningmm Engine runs-on after switching offmm Engine noises

Cooling systemmm Overheatingmm Overcoolingmm External coolant leakagemm Internal coolant leakagemm Corrosion

Fuel and exhaust systemsmm Excessive fuel consumptionmm Fuel leakage and/or fuel odourmm Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system

Clutchmm Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistancemm Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)mm Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle

speed)mm Judder as clutch is engagedmm Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal

Manual transmissionmm Noisy in neutral with engine runningmm Noisy in one particular gearmm Difficulty engaging gearsmm Jumps out of gearmm Vibrationmm Lubricant leaks

Automatic transmissionmm Fluid leakagemm Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smellmm General gear selection problemsmm Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully

depressedmm Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park

or Neutralmm Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in

forward or reverse gears

Driveshaftsmm Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)mm Vibration when accelerating or decelerating

Braking systemmm Vehicle pulls to one side under brakingmm Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes appliedmm Excessive brake pedal travelmm Brake pedal feels spongy when depressedmm Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehiclemm Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when brakingmm Brakes bindingmm Rear wheels locking under normal braking

Suspension and steering systemsmm Vehicle pulls to one sidemm Wheel wobble and vibrationmm Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during

brakingmm Wandering or general instabilitymm Excessively-stiff steeringmm Excessive play in steeringmm Lack of power assistancemm Tyre wear excessive

Electrical systemmm Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few daysmm Ignition warning light remains illuminated with engine runningmm Ignition warning light fails to come onmm Lights inoperativemm Instrument readings inaccurate or erraticmm Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operationmm Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in

operationmm Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in

operationmm Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operationmm Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

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Fault Finding REF•11

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance accordingto the recommended service schedules should not have to use thissection of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is suchthat, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration areinspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure iscomparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result ofsudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanicalfailures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptomsover hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components whichdo occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carriedin the vehicle.

With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begininvestigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, alittle detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half adozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful incuring a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the faultrecurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than wasnecessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be moresatisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warningsigns or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the periodpreceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusualsmells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses orspark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.

The pages which follow provide an easy reference guide to the morecommon problems which may occur during the operation of thevehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under

headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with theproblem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basicprinciples apply. These are as follows:

Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you knowwhat the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularlyimportant if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who maynot have described it very accurately.

Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, isthere petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on thisparticular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electricalfault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out thetest gear.

Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with afully-charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if theunderlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the sameway. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will getyou moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if itwasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be establishedand corrected.

Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a“new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattlingaround in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of afault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted.When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably realisethat all the evidence was there from the start.

EngineEngine fails to rotate when attempting to startmm Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).mm Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5).mm Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (Chap-

ter 5).mm Defective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5).mm Defective starter motor (Chapter 5).mm Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chap-

ter 5).mm Engine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5).mm Automatic transmission not in Park/Neutral position, or selector

lever position sensor faulty (Chapter 7, Part B).

Engine rotates but will not startmm Fuel tank empty.mm Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).mm Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).mm Ignition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5).mm Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit

(Chapters 1 and 5).mm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive) (Chapter 2,

Part A, B or C).

Engine difficult to start when coldmm Battery discharged (Chapter 5).mm Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).mm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Other ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).mm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Engine difficult to start when hotmm Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).mm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Faulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough inengagementmm Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chap-

ter 5).mm Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).mm Starter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5).

Engine starts but stops immediatelymm Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit

(Chapters 1 and 5).mm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold (Chapters 1, 2 and 4).

Engine idles erraticallymm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Air filter element clogged (Chapter 1).mm Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-

ters 1, 2 and 4).mm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Faulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Timing belt incorrectly-tensioned (Chapter 2, Part A or B).

Introduction

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REF•12 Fault Finding

Engine (continued)Engine misfires at idle speedmm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).mm Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).mm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-

ters 1, 2 and 4).mm Faulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Disconnected, leaking or perished crankcase ventilation hoses

(Chapters 1 and 4).

Engine misfires throughout the driving speedrangemm Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1).mm Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).mm Fuel tank vent blocked or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).mm Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-

ters 1, 2 and 4).mm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).mm Faulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).mm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Engine hesitates on accelerationmm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-

ters 1, 2 and 4).

Engine stallsmm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-

ters 1, 2 and 4).mm Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1).mm Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).mm Fuel tank vent blocked or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).

Engine lacks powermm Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).mm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Timing belt incorrectly fitted or incorrectly tensioned (Chapter 2,

Part A or B).mm Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1).mm Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).mm Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-

ters 1, 2 and 4).mm Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).mm Clutch slipping (Chapter 6).mm Automatic transmission fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1).

Engine backfiresmm Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).mm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Timing belt incorrectly fitted or incorrectly tensioned (Chap-

ter 2, Part A or B).mm Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-

ters 1, 2 and 4).

Oil pressure warning light illuminated with enginerunningmm Low oil level or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).mm Faulty oil pressure warning light switch (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).mm Oil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Oil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Engine runs-on after switching offmm Idle speed excessively high (Chapter 4).mm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).

Engine noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration orunder loadmm Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).mm Incorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 4).mm Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-

ters 1, 2 and 4).mm Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Whistling or wheezing noisesmm Leaking inlet manifold gasket (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Leaking exhaust manifold gasket or downpipe-to-manifold joint

(Chapters 1, 2 Part A, B or C, and 4).mm Leaking vacuum hose (Chapters 1, 2, 4, and 9).mm Blowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Tapping or rattling noisesmm Faulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Worn valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Worn timing belt or tensioner (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3

and 5).

Knocking or thumping noisesmm Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under

load) (Chapter 2, Part C).mm Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening

under load) (Chapter 2, Part C).mm Piston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2, Part C).mm Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3

and 5).

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Fault Finding REF•13

Cooling systemOverheatingmm Insufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).mm Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).mm Radiator core blocked or grille restricted (Chapter 3).mm Radiator electric cooling fan(s) or coolant temperature sensor faulty

(Chapter 3).mm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).mm Auxiliary drivebelt worn or slipping (Chapter 1).mm Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).mm Inaccurate coolant temperature gauge sender (Chapter 3).mm Air-lock in cooling system (Chapter 1).

Overcoolingmm Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).mm Inaccurate coolant temperature gauge sender (Chapter 3).

External coolant leakagemm Deteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1).mm Radiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).mm Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).mm Water pump seal leaking (Chapter 3).mm Boiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).mm Core plug leaking (Chapter 2, Part C).

Internal coolant leakagemm Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).mm Cracked cylinder head or cylinder bore (Chapter 2, Part C).

Corrosionmm Infrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).mm Incorrect antifreeze mixture, or inappropriate antifreeze type

(Chapter 1).

Fuel and exhaust systemExcessive fuel consumptionmm Unsympathetic driving style, or adverse conditions.mm Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).mm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).mm Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).mm Tyres under-inflated (Chapter 1).

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odourmm Damaged or corroded fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapter 1).mm Charcoal canister and/or connecting pipes leaking (Chapter 4,

Part E).

Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust systemmm Leaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapters 1,

2 Part A, B or C, and 4).mm Leaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapter 1).mm Broken mountings, causing body or suspension contact (Chap-

ters 1 and 4).

ClutchPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very littleresistancemm Air in clutch hydraulic system (Chapter 6).mm Faulty clutch slave cylinder (Chapter 6).mm Faulty clutch master cylinder (Chapter 6).mm Incorrect pedal height adjustment (Chapter 6).mm Broken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6).

Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)mm Air in clutch hydraulic system (Chapter 6).mm Faulty clutch slave cylinder (Chapter 6).mm Faulty clutch master cylinder (Chapter 6).mm Incorrect pedal height adjustment (Chapter 6).mm Clutch disc sticking on transmission mainshaft splines (Chapter 6).mm Clutch disc sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6).mm Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).mm Clutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chap-

ter 6).

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with noincrease in vehicle speed)mm Clutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).mm Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).mm Faulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).

Judder as clutch is engagedmm Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).mm Clutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).mm Faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).mm Worn or loose engine/transmission mountings (Chapter 2, Part A or B).mm Clutch disc hub or transmission mainshaft splines worn (Chapter 6).

Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedalmm Worn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6).mm Worn or dry clutch pedal bushes (Chapter 6).mm Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).mm Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6).mm Broken clutch disc cushioning springs (Chapter 6).

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REF•14 Fault Finding

Manual transmissionNoisy in neutral with engine runningmm Mainshaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal

released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7, Part A).*mm Clutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal

depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6).

Noisy in one particular gearmm Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7, Part A).*mm Worn bearings (Chapter 7, Part A).*

Difficulty engaging gearsmm Clutch fault (Chapter 6).mm Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7, Part A).mm Worn synchroniser assemblies (Chapter 7, Part A).*

Vibrationmm Lack of oil (Chapter 1).mm Worn bearings (Chapter 7, Part A).*

Jumps out of gearmm Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7, Part A).mm Worn synchroniser assemblies (Chapter 7, Part A).*mm Worn selector forks (Chapter 7, Part A).*

Lubricant leaksmm Leaking differential side gear oil seal (Chapter 7, Part A).mm Leaking gearchange shaft or speedometer pinion oil seals (Chap-

ter 7, Part A).mm Leaking housing joint (Chapter 7, Part A).*mm Leaking mainshaft oil seal (Chapter 7, Part A).*

* Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptomsdescribed is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the aboveinformation should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition, sothat the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.

Automatic transmissionNote: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficultfor the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. Forproblems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to adealer service department or automatic transmission specialist.

Fluid leakagemm Automatic transmission fluid is usually dark in colour. Fluid leaks

should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blownonto the transmission by airflow.

mm To determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt andgrime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas, usinga degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at lowspeed, so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raiseand support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is comingfrom. The following are common areas of leakage:(a) Transmission oil sump (Chapters 1 and 7, Part B).(b) Dipstick tube (Chapters 1 and 7, Part B).(c) Transmission-to-fluid cooler pipes/unions (Chapter 7, Part B).(d) Speedometer drive pinion O-ring (Chapter 7, Part B).(d) Differential side gear oil seals (Chapter 7, Part B).

Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smellmm Transmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).

Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) withaccelerator pedal fully depressedmm Low transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).mm Incorrect kickdown cable adjustment (Chapter 7, Part B).mm Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7, Part B).mm Engine management system fault (Chapters 1, and 4).

General gear selection problemsmm Chapter 7, Part B, deals with checking and adjusting the selector

cable on automatic transmissions. The following are commonproblems which may be caused by a poorly-adjusted cable:(a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.(b) Indicator on gear selector lever pointing to a gear other than

the one actually being used.(c) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.(d) Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.Refer to Chapter 7, Part B for the selector cable adjustmentprocedure.

Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gearsother than Park or Neutralmm Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7, Part B).mm Incorrect starter inhibitor switch adjustment (Chapter 7, Part B).

Transmission slips, shift roughly, is noisy, or hasno drive in forward or reverse gearsmm There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the

home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmissionspecialist, check the fluid level and condition of the fluid asdescribed in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, orchange the fluid if needed. If the problem persists, professional helpwill be necessary.

DriveshaftsClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speedon full-lock)mm Lack of constant velocity joint lubricant (Chapter 8).mm Worn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).

Vibration when accelerating or deceleratingmm Worn inner constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).mm Bent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8).

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Fault Finding REF•15

Braking systemNote: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that thetyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheelalignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in anunequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe andhose connections, any faults occurring on the Anti-lock Braking System(ABS) should be referred to a Rover dealer for diagnosis.

Vehicle pulls to one side under brakingmm Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake pads

on one side (Chapter 1).mm Seized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper piston (Chapter 9).mm A mixture of brake pad lining materials fitted between sides

(Chapter 1).mm Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).mm Worn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapter 10).

Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) whenbrakes appliedmm Brake pad friction lining material worn down to metal backing

(Chapter 1).mm Excessive corrosion of brake disc (may be apparent after the

vehicle has been standing for some time) (Chapter 1).

Excessive brake pedal travelmm Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).mm Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressedmm Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).mm Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapter 9).mm Master cylinder mounting nuts loose (Chapter 9).mm Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stopvehiclemm Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9).mm Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose

(Chapter 9).mm Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9).mm Seized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 9).mm Brake pads incorrectly fitted (Chapter 9).mm Incorrect grade of brake pads fitted (Chapter 1).mm Brake pad linings contaminated (Chapter 1).

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheelwhen brakingmm Excessive run-out or distortion of front or rear discs (Chapter 9).mm Brake pad linings worn (Chapter 1).mm Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).mm Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings (Chap-

ter 10).

Brakes bindingmm Seized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 9).mm Faulty handbrake mechanism (Chapter 9).mm Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Rear wheels locking under normal brakingmm Rear brake pad linings contaminated (Chapter 1).mm Faulty brake pressure-reducing valve (Chapter 9).

Suspension and steering systemsNote: Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, be sure that thetrouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types, orbinding brakes.

Vehicle pulls to one sidemm Defective tyre (Chapter 1).mm Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter 10).mm Incorrect front or rear wheel alignment (Chapter 10).mm Accident damage to steering or suspension components (Chap-

ter 10).

Wheel wobble and vibrationmm Front roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt mainly through the

steering wheel) (Chapter 1).mm Rear roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt throughout the

vehicle) (Chapter 1).mm Roadwheels damaged or distorted (Chapter 1).mm Faulty or damaged tyre (Chapter 1).mm Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapter 10).mm Roadwheel nuts loose (Chapter 1).

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners,or during brakingmm Defective shock absorbers (Chapter 10).mm Broken or weak coil spring and/or suspension component (Chap-

ter 10).mm Worn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings (Chapter 10).

Wandering or general instabilitymm Incorrect front or rear wheel alignment (Chapter 10).mm Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapter 10).mm Roadwheels out of balance (Chapter 1).mm Faulty or damaged tyre (Chapter 1).mm Roadwheel nuts loose (Chapter 1).mm Defective shock absorbers (Chapter 10).

Excessively-stiff steeringmm Broken or incorrectly adjusted power steering pump (auxiliary)

drivebelt (Chapters 1 and 10).mm Power steering pump faulty (Chapter 10).mm Seized track rod end balljoint or suspension balljoint (Chapter 10).mm Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).mm Steering rack or column bent or damaged (Chapter 10).

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REF•16 Fault Finding

Suspension and steering systems

Excessive play in steeringmm Worn steering column universal joint(s) (Chapter 10).mm Worn steering track rod end balljoints (Chapter 10).mm Worn rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).mm Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapter 10).

Lack of power assistancemm Broken or slipping power steering pump (auxiliary) drivebelt

(Chapter 1).mm Incorrect power steering fluid level (Chapter 1).mm Restriction in power steering fluid hoses (Chapter 10).mm Faulty power steering pump (Chapter 10).mm Faulty rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).

Tyre wear excessive

Tyre treads exhibit feathered edgesmm Incorrect toe setting (Chapter 10).

Tyres worn in centre of treadmm Tyres over-inflated (Chapter 1).

Tyres worn on inside and outside edgesmm Tyres under-inflated (Chapter 1).

Tyres worn unevenlymm Tyres out of balance (Chapter 1).mm Excessive wheel or tyre run-out (Chapter 1).mm Worn shock absorbers (Chapter 10).mm Faulty tyre (Chapter 1).

Tyres worn on inside or outside edgesmm Tyres under-inflated (wear on both edges) (Chapter 1).mm Incorrect camber or castor angles (wear on one edge only) (Chap-

ter 10).mm Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapter 10).mm Excessively-hard cornering.mm Accident damage.

Electrical systemNote: For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the

faults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section.

Battery will not hold a charge for more than a fewdaysmm Battery defective internally (Chapters 1 and 5).mm Battery electrolyte level low (Chapter 1).mm Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapters 1 and 5).mm Auxiliary drivebelt worn or incorrectly-adjusted (Chapter 1).mm Alternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5).mm Alternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5).mm Short-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5 and 12).

Ignition warning light remains illuminated withengine runningmm Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly-adjusted (Chapter 1).mm Alternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5).mm Alternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5).mm Internal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5).mm Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit (Chap-

ter 5).

Ignition warning light fails to come onmm Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 12).mm Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit

(Chapters 5 and 12).mm Alternator faulty (Chapter 5).

Lights inoperativemm Bulb blown (Chapter 12).mm Corrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12).mm Blown fuse (Chapter 12).mm Faulty relay (Chapter 12).mm Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12).mm Faulty switch (Chapter 12).

Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic

Instrument readings increase with engine speedmm Faulty instrument electronic control unit (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give no readingmm Faulty instrument electronic control unit (Chapter 12).mm Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 or 4).mm Wiring open-circuit (Chapter 12).mm Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximumreadingmm Faulty instrument electronic control unit (Chapter 12).mm Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 or 4).mm Wiring short-circuit (Chapter 12).mm Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Horn fails to operatemm Blown fuse (Chapter 12).mm Steering wheel cable connections loose, broken or disconnected

(Chapter 10).mm Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory soundmm Steering wheel cable connections loose, broken or disconnected

(Chapter 10).mm Horn mountings loose (Chapter 12).mm Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Horn operates all the timemm Horn push either earthed or stuck down (Chapter 10).mm Steering wheel cable connections earthed (Chapter 10).

Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative or unsat-isfactory in operation

Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowlymm Wiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding (Chap-

ter 12).mm Blown fuse (Chapter 12).mm Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected (Chap-

ter 12).mm Faulty relay (Chapter 12).mm Faulty wiper motor (Chapter 12).

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Fault Finding REF•17

Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area ofthe glassmm Wiper arms incorrectly-positioned on spindles (Chapter 1).mm Excessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 1).mm Wiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12).

Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectivelymm Wiper blade rubbers worn or perished (Chapter 1).mm Wiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized (Chapter 1).mm Insufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove road

film (Chapter 1).

Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, orunsatisfactory in operation

One or more washer jets inoperativemm Blocked washer jet (Chapter 1).mm Disconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 1).mm Insufficient fluid in washer reservoir (Chapter 1).

Washer pump fails to operatemm Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).mm Blown fuse (Chapter 12).mm Faulty washer switch (Chapter 12).mm Faulty washer pump (Chapter 12).

Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emittedfrom jetsmm Faulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12).

Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory inoperation

Window glass will only move in one directionmm Faulty switch (Chapter 12).

Window glass slow to movemm Incorrectly-adjusted door glass guide channels (Chapter 11).mm Regulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication (Chapter 11).mm Door internal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 11).mm Faulty motor (Chapter 12).

Window glass fails to movemm Incorrectly-adjusted door glass guide channels (Chapter 11).mm Blown fuse (Chapter 12).mm Faulty relay (Chapter 12).mm Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).mm Faulty motor (Chapter 12).

Central locking system inoperative, or unsatis-factory in operation

Complete system failuremm Inertia cut-off switch tripped out (Chapter 11).mm Blown fuse (Chapter 12).mm Faulty relay (Chapter 12).mm Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).

Latch locks but will not unlock, or unlocks but will not lockmm Faulty master switch (Chapter 11).mm Broken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers (Chapter 11).mm Faulty relay (Chapter 12).

One lock motor fails to operatemm Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).mm Faulty lock motor (Chapter 11).mm Broken, binding or disconnected latch operating rods or levers

(Chapter 11).mm Fault in door latch (Chapter 11).

Page 258: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

REF•18 Glossary of Technical Terms

AABS (Anti-lock brake system) A system,usually electronically controlled, that sensesincipient wheel lockup during braking andrelieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that areabout to skid.Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in thesteering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash orglovebox (passenger side). In a head-oncollision, the bags inflate, preventing thedriver and front passenger from being thrownforward into the steering wheel or windscreen.Air cleaner A metal or plastic housing,containing a filter element, which removesdust and dirt from the air being drawn into theengine.Air filter element The actual filter in an aircleaner system, usually manufactured frompleated paper and requiring renewal at regularintervals.

Allen key A hexagonal wrench which fits intoa recessed hexagonal hole.Alligator clip A long-nosed spring-loadedmetal clip with meshing teeth. Used to maketemporary electrical connections.Alternator A component in the electricalsystem which converts mechanical energyfrom a drivebelt into electrical energy tocharge the battery and to operate the startingsystem, ignition system and electricalaccessories.

Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for theflow of electric current. One amp is theamount of current produced by one voltacting through a resistance of one ohm.Anaerobic sealer A substance used toprevent bolts and screws from loosening.Anaerobic means that it does not requireoxygen for activation. The Loctite brand iswidely used.Antifreeze A substance (usually ethyleneglycol) mixed with water, and added to avehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezingof the coolant in winter. Antifreeze alsocontains chemicals to inhibit corrosion andthe formation of rust and other deposits that

would tend to clog the radiator and coolantpassages and reduce cooling efficiency.Anti-seize compound A coating thatreduces the risk of seizing on fasteners thatare subjected to high temperatures, such asexhaust manifold bolts and nuts.

Asbestos A natural fibrous mineral with greatheat resistance, commonly used in thecomposition of brake friction materials.Asbestos is a health hazard and the dustcreated by brake systems should never beinhaled or ingested.Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves, orwhich revolves with a wheel. Also, a solidbeam that connects the two wheels at oneend of the vehicle. An axle which alsotransmits power to the wheels is known as alive axle.

Axleshaft A single rotating shaft, on eitherside of the differential, which delivers powerfrom the final drive assembly to the drivewheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.

BBall bearing An anti-friction bearingconsisting of a hardened inner and outer racewith hardened steel balls between two races.

Bearing The curved surface on a shaft or in abore, or the part assembled into either, thatpermits relative motion between them withminimum wear and friction.Big-end bearing The bearing in the end ofthe connecting rod that’s attached to thecrankshaft.Bleed nipple A valve on a brake wheelcylinder, caliper or other hydraulic componentthat is opened to purge the hydraulic systemof air. Also called a bleed screw.

Brake bleeding Procedure for removing airfrom lines of a hydraulic brake system.Brake disc The component of a disc brakethat rotates with the wheels.Brake drum The component of a drum brakethat rotates with the wheels.Brake linings The friction material whichcontacts the brake disc or drum to retard thevehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded orriveted to the brake pads or shoes.Brake pads The replaceable friction padsthat pinch the brake disc when the brakes areapplied. Brake pads consist of a frictionmaterial bonded or riveted to a rigid backingplate.Brake shoe The crescent-shaped carrier towhich the brake linings are mounted andwhich forces the lining against the rotatingdrum during braking.Braking systems For more information onbraking systems, consult the HaynesAutomotive Brake Manual.Breaker bar A long socket wrench handleproviding greater leverage.Bulkhead The insulated partition betweenthe engine and the passenger compartment.

CCaliper The non-rotating part of a disc-brakeassembly that straddles the disc and carriesthe brake pads. The caliper also contains thehydraulic components that cause the pads topinch the disc when the brakes are applied. Acaliper is also a measuring tool that can be setto measure inside or outside dimensions of anobject.

Brake bleeding

Bearing

Axle assembly

Anti-seize compound

Alternator (exploded view)

Air filter

Page 259: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Glossary of Technical Terms REF•19

Camshaft A rotating shaft on which a seriesof cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.The camshaft may be driven by gears, bysprockets and chain or by sprockets and abelt.Canister A container in an evaporativeemission control system; contains activatedcharcoal granules to trap vapours from thefuel system.

Carburettor A device which mixes fuel withair in the proper proportions to provide adesired power output from a spark ignitioninternal combustion engine.

Castellated Resembling the parapets alongthe top of a castle wall. For example, acastellated balljoint stud nut.

Castor In wheel alignment, the backward orforward tilt of the steering axis. Castor ispositive when the steering axis is inclinedrearward at the top.

Catalytic converter A silencer-like device inthe exhaust system which converts certainpollutants in the exhaust gases into lessharmful substances.

Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to preventendwise movement of cylindrical parts andshafts. An internal circlip is installed in agroove in a housing; an external circlip fits intoa groove on the outside of a cylindrical piecesuch as a shaft.Clearance The amount of space betweentwo parts. For example, between a piston anda cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,etc.Coil spring A spiral of elastic steel found invarious sizes throughout a vehicle, forexample as a springing medium in thesuspension and in the valve train.Compression Reduction in volume, andincrease in pressure and temperature, of agas, caused by squeezing it into a smallerspace.Compression ratio The relationship betweencylinder volume when the piston is at topdead centre and cylinder volume when thepiston is at bottom dead centre.Constant velocity (CV) joint A type ofuniversal joint that cancels out vibrationscaused by driving power being transmittedthrough an angle.Core plug A disc or cup-shaped metal deviceinserted in a hole in a casting through whichcore was removed when the casting wasformed. Also known as a freeze plug orexpansion plug. Crankcase The lower part of the engineblock in which the crankshaft rotates.Crankshaft The main rotating member, orshaft, running the length of the crankcase,with offset “throws” to which the connectingrods are attached.

Crocodile clip See Alligator clip

DDiagnostic code Code numbers obtained byaccessing the diagnostic mode of an enginemanagement computer. This code can beused to determine the area in the systemwhere a malfunction may be located.Disc brake A brake design incorporating arotating disc onto which brake pads aresqueezed. The resulting friction converts theenergy of a moving vehicle into heat.Double-overhead cam (DOHC) An enginethat uses two overhead camshafts, usuallyone for the intake valves and one for theexhaust valves.Drivebelt(s) The belt(s) used to driveaccessories such as the alternator, waterpump, power steering pump, air conditioningcompressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.

Driveshaft Any shaft used to transmitmotion. Commonly used when referring to theaxleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.

Drum brake A type of brake using a drum-shaped metal cylinder attached to the innersurface of the wheel. When the brake pedal ispressed, curved brake shoes with frictionlinings press against the inside of the drum toslow or stop the vehicle.

Castellated nut

Catalytic converter

Crankshaft assembly

Carburettor

Canister

Drum brake assembly

Accessory drivebelts

Driveshaft

Page 260: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

REF•20 Glossary of Technical Terms

EEGR valve A valve used to introduce exhaustgases into the intake air stream.

Electronic control unit (ECU) A computerwhich controls (for instance) ignition and fuelinjection systems, or an anti-lock brakingsystem. For more information refer to theHaynes Automotive Electrical and ElectronicSystems Manual.Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) A computercontrolled fuel system that distributes fuelthrough an injector located in each intake portof the engine.Emergency brake A braking system,independent of the main hydraulic system,that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle ifthe primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehiclestationary even though the brake pedal isn’tdepressed. It usually consists of a hand leverthat actuates either front or rear brakesmechanically through a series of cables andlinkages. Also known as a handbrake orparking brake.Endfloat The amount of lengthwisemovement between two parts. As applied to acrankshaft, the distance that the crankshaftcan move forward and back in the cylinderblock.Engine management system (EMS) Acomputer controlled system which managesthe fuel injection and the ignition systems inan integrated fashion.Exhaust manifold A part with severalpassages through which exhaust gases leavethe engine combustion chambers and enterthe exhaust pipe.

FFan clutch A viscous (fluid) drive couplingdevice which permits variable engine fanspeeds in relation to engine speeds.

Feeler blade A thin strip or blade of hardenedsteel, ground to an exact thickness, used tocheck or measure clearances between parts.

Firing order The order in which the enginecylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,beginning with the number one cylinder.Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in whichenergy is absorbed and stored by means ofmomentum. On cars, the flywheel is attachedto the crankshaft to smooth out firingimpulses.Free play The amount of travel before anyaction takes place. The “looseness” in alinkage, or an assembly of parts, between theinitial application of force and actualmovement. For example, the distance thebrake pedal moves before the pistons in themaster cylinder are actuated.Fuse An electrical device which protects acircuit against accidental overload. The typicalfuse contains a soft piece of metal which iscalibrated to melt at a predetermined currentflow (expressed as amps) and break thecircuit.Fusible link A circuit protection deviceconsisting of a conductor surrounded byheat-resistant insulation. The conductor issmaller than the wire it protects, so it acts asthe weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blownfuse, a failed fusible link must frequently becut from the wire for replacement.

GGap The distance the spark must travel injumping from the centre electrode to the side

electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to thespacing between the points in a contactbreaker assembly in a conventional points-type ignition, or to the distance between thereluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in anelectronic ignition.Gasket Any thin, soft material - usually cork,cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installedbetween two metal surfaces to ensure a goodseal. For instance, the cylinder head gasketseals the joint between the block and thecylinder head.

Gauge An instrument panel display used tomonitor engine conditions. A gauge with amovable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is ananalogue gauge. A gauge with a numericalreadout is called a digital gauge.

HHalfshaft A rotating shaft that transmitspower from the final drive unit to a drivewheel, usually when referring to a live rearaxle.Harmonic balancer A device designed toreduce torsion or twisting vibration in thecrankshaft. May be incorporated in thecrankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibrationdamper.Hone An abrasive tool for correcting smallirregularities or differences in diameter in anengine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.Hydraulic tappet A tappet that utiliseshydraulic pressure from the engine’slubrication system to maintain zero clearance(constant contact with both camshaft andvalve stem). Automatically adjusts to variationin valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets alsoreduce valve noise.

IIgnition timing The moment at which thespark plug fires, usually expressed in thenumber of crankshaft degrees before thepiston reaches the top of its stroke.Inlet manifold A tube or housing withpassages through which flows the air-fuelmixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles withthrottle body injection) or air only (port fuel-injected vehicles) to the port openings in thecylinder head.

Exhaust manifold

Feeler blade

Adjusting spark plug gap

Gasket

EGR valve

Page 261: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Glossary of Technical Terms REF•21

JJump start Starting the engine of a vehiclewith a discharged or weak battery byattaching jump leads from the weak battery toa charged or helper battery.

LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) Abrake hydraulic system control valve thatworks like a proportioning valve, but alsotakes into consideration the amount of weightcarried by the rear axle.Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustmentnut, or other threaded component, in place.For example, a locknut is employed to keepthe adjusting nut on the rocker arm inposition.Lockwasher A form of washer designed toprevent an attaching nut from working loose.

MMacPherson strut A type of frontsuspension system devised by EarleMacPherson at Ford of England. In its originalform, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll barcreates the lower control arm. A long strut - anintegral coil spring and shock absorber - ismounted between the body and the steeringknuckle. Many modern so-called MacPhersonstrut systems use a conventional lower A-armand don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.Multimeter An electrical test instrument withthe capability to measure voltage, current andresistance.

NNOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxicpollutant emitted by petrol and diesel enginesat higher temperatures.

OOhm The unit of electrical resistance. Onevolt applied to a resistance of one ohm willproduce a current of one amp.Ohmmeter An instrument for measuringelectrical resistance.O-ring A type of sealing ring made of aspecial rubber-like material; in use, the O-ringis compressed into a groove to provide thesealing action.

Overhead cam (ohc) engine An engine withthe camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinderhead(s).Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine withthe valves located in the cylinder head, butwith the camshaft located in the engine block.Oxygen sensor A device installed in theengine exhaust manifold, which senses theoxygen content in the exhaust and convertsthis information into an electric current. Alsocalled a Lambda sensor.

PPhillips screw A type of screw head having across instead of a slot for a correspondingtype of screwdriver.Plastigage A thin strip of plastic thread,available in different sizes, used for measuringclearances. For example, a strip of Plastigageis laid across a bearing journal. The parts areassembled and dismantled; the width of thecrushed strip indicates the clearance betweenjournal and bearing.

Propeller shaft The long hollow tube withuniversal joints at both ends that carriespower from the transmission to the differentialon front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.Proportioning valve A hydraulic controlvalve which limits the amount of pressure tothe rear brakes during panic stops to preventwheel lock-up.

RRack-and-pinion steering A steering systemwith a pinion gear on the end of the steeringshaft that mates with a rack (think of a gearedwheel opened up and laid flat). When thesteering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,moving the rack to the left or right. Thismovement is transmitted through the trackrods to the steering arms at the wheels.Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer devicedesigned to reduce the temperature of thecoolant in an internal combustion enginecooling system. Refrigerant Any substance used as a heattransfer agent in an air-conditioning system.R-12 has been the principle refrigerant formany years; recently, however, manufacturershave begun using R-134a, a non-CFCsubstance that is considered less harmful to

the ozone in the upper atmosphere.Rocker arm A lever arm that rocks on a shaftor pivots on a stud. In an overhead valveengine, the rocker arm converts the upwardmovement of the pushrod into a downwardmovement to open a valve.Rotor In a distributor, the rotating deviceinside the cap that connects the centreelectrode and the outer terminals as it turns,distributing the high voltage from the coilsecondary winding to the proper spark plug.Also, that part of an alternator which rotatesinside the stator. Also, the rotating assemblyof a turbocharger, including the compressorwheel, shaft and turbine wheel.Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-outmovement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” Theout-of-round condition of a rotating part.

SSealant A liquid or paste used to preventleakage at a joint. Sometimes used inconjunction with a gasket.Sealed beam lamp An older headlight designwhich integrates the reflector, lens andfilaments into a hermetically-sealed one-pieceunit. When a filament burns out or the lenscracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wideaccessory drivebelt that’s used on somenewer vehicles to drive all the accessories,instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned byan automatic tensioner.

Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjustthe clearance or relative positions betweentwo parts. For example, shims inserted into orunder bucket tappets control valveclearances. Clearance is adjusted bychanging the thickness of the shim.Slide hammer A special puller that screwsinto or hooks onto a component such as ashaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on theshaft bottoms against the end of the shaft toknock the component free.Sprocket A tooth or projection on theperiphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with achain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer tothe sprocket wheel itself.Starter inhibitor switch On vehicles with anO-ring

Serpentine drivebelt

Plastigage

Page 262: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

REF•22 Glossary of Technical Termsautomatic transmission, a switch thatprevents starting if the vehicle is not in Neutralor Park.Strut See MacPherson strut.

TTappet A cylindrical component whichtransmits motion from the cam to the valvestem, either directly or via a pushrod androcker arm. Also called a cam follower.Thermostat A heat-controlled valve thatregulates the flow of coolant between thecylinder block and the radiator, so maintainingoptimum engine operating temperature. Athermostat is also used in some air cleaners inwhich the temperature is regulated.Thrust bearing The bearing in the clutchassembly that is moved in to the release leversby clutch pedal action to disengage theclutch. Also referred to as a release bearing.Timing belt A toothed belt which drives thecamshaft. Serious engine damage may resultif it breaks in service.Timing chain A chain which drives thecamshaft.Toe-in The amount the front wheels arecloser together at the front than at the rear. Onrear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount oftoe-in is usually specified to keep the frontwheels running parallel on the road byoffsetting other forces that tend to spread thewheels apart.Toe-out The amount the front wheels arecloser together at the rear than at the front. On

front wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount oftoe-out is usually specified.Tools For full information on choosing andusing tools, refer to the Haynes AutomotiveTools Manual.Tracer A stripe of a second colour applied toa wire insulator to distinguish that wire fromanother one with the same colour insulator.Tune-up A process of accurate and carefuladjustments and parts replacement to obtainthe best possible engine performance.Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven byexhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.Normally used to increase the power outputfrom a given engine displacement, but canalso be used primarily to reduce exhaustemissions (as on VW’s “Umwelt” Dieselengine).

UUniversal joint or U-joint A double-pivotedconnection for transmitting power from adriving to a driven shaft through an angle. A U-joint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and across-shaped member called the spider.

VValve A device through which the flow ofliquid, gas, vacuum, or loose material in bulkmay be started, stopped, or regulated by amovable part that opens, shuts, or partially

obstructs one or more ports or passageways.A valve is also the movable part of such adevice.Valve clearance The clearance between thevalve tip (the end of the valve stem) and therocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance ismeasured when the valve is closed.Vernier caliper A precision measuringinstrument that measures inside and outsidedimensions. Not quite as accurate as amicrometer, but more convenient.Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or itsresistance to flow.Volt A unit for expressing electrical “pressure”in a circuit. One volt that will produce a currentof one ampere through a resistance of oneohm.

WWelding Various processes used to join metalitems by heating the areas to be joined to amolten state and fusing them together. Formore information refer to the HaynesAutomotive Welding Manual.Wiring diagram A drawing portraying thecomponents and wires in a vehicle’s electricalsystem, using standardised symbols. Formore information refer to the HaynesAutomotive Electrical and Electronic SystemsManual.

Page 263: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

Index REF•23

Note: References throughout this index relate to Chapter•page number

AAccelerator cable - 1•13, 4A•3, 4B•3, 4C•2,

4D•3Accelerator pedal - 4A•3, 4B•3, 4C•3,

4C•4, 4D•3Acknowledgements - 0•4Aerial amplifier - 12•16Air bags - 0•5Air cleaner - 1•15, 4A•2, 4B•2, 4C•2, 4D•2Air conditioning - 1•17, 1•18, 1•19, 3•3,

3•11, 3•12, 12•8Air duct - 4D•3Air intake trunking - 4D•2Air suction valve - 4E•3, 4E•4Airbag - 12•18Airflow meter - 4B•5Alarm siren - 12•17Alternator - 1•16, 1•17, 1•18, 5•10Amplifier - 12•17Anti-lock braking system - 9•16, 9•17Anti-roll bar - 10•8, 10•11Anti-theft system - 0•10, 12•17Antifreeze - 1•1, 1•3, 1•9, 1•25, 1•26, 3•3Asbestos - 0•5ATF - 1•3, 1•22, 1•24Atmospheric pressure sensor - 4D•6Automatic transmission - 2A•17, 2B•11,

2C•3, 2C•7, 7B•1 et seqAutomatic transmission fault finding -

REF•14Automatic transmission fluid - 1•3, 1•22,

1•24

BBackfire - REF•12Battery - 0•5, 1•9, 1•15, 5•2, 5•3Battery fault - REF•16Big-end bearings - 2C•15, 2C•18Bleeding brakes - 9•2Bleeding clutch - 6•2Bleeding power steering - 10•17Blower motor - 3•9, 3•10, 3•13Body electrical system - 12•1 et seqBodywork and fittings - 1•22, 11•1 et seq,

REF•4Bonnet - 1•22, 11•4, 11•5, 12•18Boost control solenoid - 4C•5

Boot - 1•22, 11•5, 11•6, 11•8Brake band - 7B•8Brake fluid - 1•3, 1•9, 1•25Braking system - 1•21, 1•22, 1•26, 4D•10,

9•1 et seq, REF•1, REF•2, REF•3Braking system fault finding - REF•15Bulbs - 12•6, 12•8Bumpers - 11•16Burning - 0•5

CCables - 1•13, 3•11, 4A•3, 4B•3, 4C•2,

4D•3, 7B•3 to 7B•6, 9•14, 9•15, 11•5 to11•7, 11•14, 11•18

Caliper - 9•5, 9•7, 9•8Camshaft - 2A•4, 2A•10, 2A•11, 2B•4,

2B•7, 2B•8, 4C•5Capacities - 1•3Carpets - 11•2Cassette - 0•10, 11•2, 11•14, 12•15Catalytic converter - 4E•4CD player - 11•2, 12-15Central control unit - 12•12Central locking fault - REF•17Centre console - 11•19, 12•5Charcoal canister - 4E•2Charging - 1•16, 5•9Circuit board - 12•12Clock - 12•12Clutch - 1•21, 1•22, 4D•10, 6•1 et seqClutch fault finding- REF•13Clutch fluid - 1•3CO content - 1•20, REF•4Coil - 5•5Coil spring - 10•6, 10•10Compact disc player - 11•2, 12•15Compression test - 2A•3, 2B•3Compressor - 3•12Condenser - 3•12Connecting rods - 2C•11, 2C•12, 2C•14,

2C•18Console - 11•19, 12•5Constant vacuum control valve - 4E•3Constant velocity joint - 1•21, 8•3, 8•4Contents - 0•2Conversion factors - 0•11Coolant - 1•1, 1•3, 1•9, 1•25, 1•26, 3•3Coolant pump - 3•7, 3•9

Coolant temperature gauge - 12•11, 12•12Coolant temperature gauge fault - REF•16Cooling, heating and air conditioning

systems - 1•13, 3•1 et seqCooling system fault finding - REF•13Courtesy light - 12•5, 12•8Crankcase - 2C•12Crankcase emissions control - 4E•1, 4E•2Crankshaft - 2A•10, 2A•16, 2B•5, 2B•8,

2B•11, 2C•12, 2C•15, 2C•17Crankshaft sensor - 5•9Cruise control system - 4D•9, 4D•10Crushing - 0•5CV joints - 1•21, 8•3, 8•4Cylinder block - 2C•12Cylinder head - 2A•12, 2B•4, 2B•10, 2C•9,

2C•10, 2C•11Cylinder sensor - 5•9

DDashpot diaphragm - 4D•7Dents in bodywork - 11•3Depressurisation - fuel system - 4A•3,

4B•3, 4C•3, 4D•3Differential - 7A•4Dimensions - 0•6Direction indicators - 12•6Discs - 9•6, 9•8Distributor - 1•14, 5•4, 5•5Doors - 1•22, 11•9, 11•11, 11•12, 11•13,

11•14, 11•15, 11•16, 12•5, REF•2Drivebelts - 1•16, 1•17, 1•18Driveplate - 2A•16, 2B•11Driveshafts - 1•21, 8•1 et seq, REF•3Driveshafts fault finding - REF•14Drivetrain - 1•22

EEarth fault - 12•2EGR valve - 4E•4Electric shock - 0•5Electric windows - 11•14, 11•16Electric windows fault - REF•17Electrical system - 1•15, 1•19, 1•22, REF•2Electrical system fault finding - 12•2,

REF•16Electrolyte - 1•9

Page 264: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

REF•24 IndexElectronic control unit (ECU) - 4A•7, 4A•8,

4B•7, 4C•5, 4D•9, 4D•10, 5•8, 7B•9,9•17, 12•11

Electronic idle control valve - 4D•7Emissions control equipment - 1•26, 4E•2Engine compartment - 1•19, 12•7Engine electrical systems - 5•1 et seqEngine fault - REF•11Engine oil - 1•3, 1•8, 1•11Engine removal and general engine

overhaul procedures - 2C•1 et seqEnvironmental considerations - REF•5Evaporative emissions control - 4E•1, 4E•2Evaporator - 3•13Exhaust emissions control - 4E•1, 4E•3,

REF•4Exhaust manifold - 2A•6, 2B•5Exhaust system - 1•21, 4A•9, 4B•8, 4C•6,

4D•10, - REF•3Exhaust system fault - REF•13

FFaceplate - 12•11, 12•12Facia - 11•20, 12•6, 12•8Fan - 3•5, 3•13Fast idle valve - 4D•7Fault finding - REF•10 et seqFault finding - braking system - REF•15Fault finding - central locking - REF•17Fault finding - clutch - REF•13Fault finding - cooling system - REF•13Fault finding - driveshafts - REF•14Fault finding - electric windows - REF•17Fault finding - electrical system - 12•2,

REF•16Fault finding - engine - REF•11Fault finding - fuel and exhaust system -

REF•13, REF•16Fault finding - ignition system - REF•16Fault finding - manual transmission -

REF•14Fault finding - suspension and steering

systems - REF•15Filling - 11•3Filter, EGR - 4E•4Filter, fuel - 1•24Filter, oil - 1•1, 1•11, 2B•10Filter, transmission fluid - 7B•3Fire - 0•5Fluid level checks - 1•8Flywheel - 2A•16, 2B•11Fog light - 12•7Footwell lights - 12•84-cylinder engine - in-car engine repair

procedures - 2A•1 et seqFuel and exhaust systems - REF•4Fuel and exhaust system fault finding -

REF•13Fuel and exhaust systems - Emissions

control systems - 4E•1 et seqFuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi

injection engines - 4D•1 et seqFuel and exhaust systems - Lucas multi-

point injection engines - 4B•1 et seqFuel and exhaust systems - MEMS multi-

point injection engines - 4C•1 et seq

Fuel and exhaust systems - single-pointinjection engines - 4A•1 et seq

Fuel consumption high - REF•13Fuel filler flap - 11•6, 11•7Fuel filter - 1•24Fuel gauge - 4A•4, 4B•3, 4C•3, 4D•3,

12•11, 12•12Fuel gauge fault - REF•16Fuel injectors - 4B•7, 4C•5, 4D•7Fuel line - 1•13, 1•21Fuel pressure regulator - 4B•7, 4C•4, 4D•8Fuel pump - 4A•4, 4B•3, 4C•3, 4D•3Fuel rail - 4C•5, 4D•7, 4D•8Fuel tank - 4A•4, 4B•3, 4C•3, 4D•4Fuel temperature sensor - 4C•4Fuel temperature switch - 4B•6Fume or gas intoxication - 0•5Fusebox - 12•3, 12•4

GGaiters - 1•21, 8•4, 10•16Gashes in bodywork - 11•3Gaskets - REF•5Gear lever - 7A•2Glass - 11•9, 11•13, 11•16Glossary of technical terms - REF•18 et seqGlovebox lights - 12•8Grille - 11•8

HHandbrake - 9•13, 9•14, 9•15, REF•1Handles - 11•12, 11•15, 11•16Hazard warning - 12•8HC emissions - REF•4Headlight - 12•6, 12•8, 12•9Headlight washer - 1•9, 1•11, 12•15Heater - 3•3, 3•9, 3•10, 3•11, 12•8Horn - 12•13Horn fault - REF•16HT leads - 1•14Hubs - 10•5, 10•9Hydraulic modulator - 9•17Hydraulic pipes and hoses - 9•12Hydraulic tappets - 2A•11, 2B•8Hydrofluoric acid - 0•5

IIdle speed adjustment - 1•20, 4A•6, 4B•4,

4D•5Idle speed stepper motor - 4B•5Idling fault - REF•11Igniter - 5•6Ignition coil - 5•5Ignition fault - REF•16Ignition switch - 12•4Ignition timing - 5•6, 5•7Indicators - 12•6Inertia switch - 4A•9, 4B•7, 4C•5, 4D•9Injector housing - 4A•7Injectors - 4B•7, 4C•5, 4D•7, 4D•8Inlet air temperature sensor - 4A•7, 4C•4Inlet manifold - 2A•4, 2B•5Instrument cowl - 12•5Instrument panel - 1•22, 12•8, 12•9, 12•11,

12•10, 12•12

Instrument fault - REF•16Intercooler - 3•7, 4C•6Interior light - 12•5, 12•8Intermediate shaft - 8•4, 8•5Introduction to the Rover 800 - 0•4

JJacking - 0•7Jump starting - 0•9

KKickdown cable - 7B•3, 7B•4Knock sensor - 5•8Knuckle - 10•4, 10•5

LLazy locking - 11•2Leaks - 0•10, REF•13, REF•14Light units - 12•8Lights fault - REF•16Locknuts, locktabs and washers - REF•5Locks - 10•13, 11•5, 11•7, 11•8, 11•11,

11•12, 11•16, 12•4Lower suspension arm - 10•7Lubricants and fluids - 1•3Luggage compartment light - 12•8

MMain bearings - 2C•15, 2C•17Main control box - 4D•9Maintenance schedule - 1•4Manifold heater - 4A•9Manifolds - 2A•4, 2A•6, 2B•5Manual transmission fault - REF•14Manual transmission - 1•20, 2A•17, 2B•11,

2C•3, 2C•7, 7A•1 et seqManual transmission oil - 1•3, 1•20, 1•25Map reading light - 12•8Master cylinder - 6•4, 6•5, 9•9, 9•11Mating faces - REF•5Mirror - 11•2, 11•15, 12•8, REF•1Misfire - 5•4, REF•12Mixture - 1•20Mixture adjustment - 4A•6, 4B•4, 4D•5MOT test checks - REF•1 et seqMountings - 2A•17, 2B•11

NNeutral switch - 7A•4Number plate light - 12•7, 12•9

OOil cooler - 2B•10, 7B•9Oil filter - 1•1, 1•11, 2B•10Oil pressure fault - REF•12Oil pressure gauge - 12•11Oil pump - 2A•15, 2B•11Oil seals - 2A•10, 2A•16, 2B•8, 2B•11,

7A•4, 7B•9, REF•5Oil, engine - 1•3, 1•8, 1•11Oil, manual transmission - 1•3, 1•20, 1•25

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Index REF•25

Open-circuit - 12•2Over-voltage protection relay - 9•17Overcooling - REF•13Overheating - REF•13Oxygen sensor - 4E•3

PPads - 9•3, 9•6Paint - 1•22Pedals - 4A•3, 4B•3, 4C•3, 4C•4, 4D•3, 6•6,

9•12Pinking - REF•12Piston rings - 2C•16Pistons - 2C•11, 2C•12, 2C•14, 2C•18Plastic components - 11•4Plenum chamber - 4B•6, 4C•5Poisonous or irritant substances - 0•5Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)

system - 1•23Power amplifier - 12•17Power steering - 1•17, 1•18, 10•17, 10•19Power steering fluid - 1•3, 1•10, 1•11Pre-ignition - REF•12Pressure-reducing valve - 9•11Printed circuit - 12•11, 12•12Project vehicles - 0•4Purge control valve solenoid - 4E•2

QQuarter light glass - 11•16

RRadiator - 3•6, 3•7, 11•8Radio - 0•10, 11•2, 12•15Rear light cluster - 12•7, 12•8, 12•9Rear window - 11•9Receiver/dryer - 3•13Regulator (window) - 11•16Relay - 4C•5, 9•17, 12•3Release bearing - 6•3Repair procedures - REF•5Resonator - 4A•9, 4B•7, 4D•6Respraying - 11•3Reversing light - 7A•4, 7B•8Road test - 1•22Rockers - 2B•4, 2C•9, 2C•10, 2C•11Rotary coupler - 10•13Rotor arm - 5•4Routine maintenance - bodywork and

underframe - 11•2Routine maintenance - upholstery and

carpets - 11•2Routine maintenance and servicing - 1•1

et seqRubber gaiters - 1•21, 8•4, 10•16Rust holes in bodywork - 11•3

SSafety first - 0•5Scalding - 0•5Scratches in bodywork - 11•3Screw threads and fastenings - REF•5Seat belts - 1•16, 11•18, REF•2Seats - 11•2, 11•17, 11•18, REF•2Selector cable - 7B•4, 7B•5, 7B•6Selector lever - 7B•7, 7B•8Servo unit - 9•16Shock absorbers - 10•6, 10•10, REF•2,

REF•3Short-circuit - 12•2Sidelight - 12•6Slave cylinder - 6•6Snubber - 2A•18Spares - REF•9Spark plugs - 1•13Speakers - 12•16Speedometer - 7A•3, 7A•4, 7B•8, 12•11,

12•12Spring - 10•6, 10•10, REF•3Starter inhibitor - 7B•8Starter motor - 5•12Starter motor fault - REF•11Starting system - 5•11Steering - 1•20, 1•22, 10•4, 10•12 to 10•17,

10•19, 12•4, 12•8, REF•1, REF•2, REF•3Stepper motor unit - 4A•8Stop-light switch - 9•15Sump - 2A•14, 2B•10, 7B•3Sun roof - 11•2, 11•19Suspension and steering systems - 1•20,

1•22, 10•1 et seq, REF•2, REF•3Suspension and steering systems fault

finding - REF•15Switch illumination - 12•8Switches - 3•5, 4A•7, 4A•9, 4B•6, 4B•7,

4C•4, 4C•5, 4D•9, 4D•10, 7A•4, 7B•8,9•15, 12•4, 12•18

TTachometer - 12•11, 12•12Tailgate - 1•22, 11•6, 11•7, 11•8, 11•9Tappets - 2A•11, 2B•8, 2B•9Temperature gauge - 12•11, 12•12Temperature gauge fault - REF•16Thermac switch - 4A•7Thermostat - 3•3Thermostatic valve - 4E•2Throttle body - 4A•8, 4D•6Throttle housing - 4B•6, 4C•4Throttle potentiometer - 4A•7, 4B•6, 4C•4Tie-bar - 2A•18, 10•8Timing - 5•6, 5•7Timing belt - 1•23, 1•26, 2A•6, 2A•9, 2A•10,

2B•5, 2B•6, 2B•7

Toe setting - 10•20Tools - REF•5, REF•6, REF•8Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number 1

piston - 2B•3Towing - 0•8Track rod - 10•15Trailing link - 10•11Transverse link - 10•11Trim panel - 1•22, 11•9, 11•15Trip computer - 12•13Turbocharger - 4B•7, 4B•8, 4C•6Tweeter - 12•16Tyres - 1•10, REF•4Tyre fault - REF•16

UUnderbody - 1•21Underframe - 11•2Unleaded petrol - 4A•4, 4B•3, 4C•3, 4D•4Upholstery - 11•2Upper suspension arm - 10•7

VV6 engine - in-car engine repair

procedures - 2B•1 et seqVacuum hoses - 1•13Vacuum servo unit - 9•16Valve block - 7B•3Valves - 2B•4, 2C•10, 2C•11Vehicle identification - REF•2, REF•9Vehicle map - 12•13Ventilation - 3•9Voltage regulator - 5•10Voltmeter - 12•11

WWarning lights - 12•8, 12•10, 12•12Washer system - 1•9, 1•11, 12•15Washer fault - REF•17Water pump - 3•7, 3•9Weekly checks - 1•8Weights - 0•6Wheel alignment - 10•19Wheel bearings - 10•5, 10•9, REF•3Wheel changing - 0•8Wheel speed sensor - 9•18, 9•19Wheels - 1•20, 1•22, REF•4Wheels lock - REF•15Windows - 11•2, 11•9, 11•13, 11•14, 11•16Windscreen - 11•9, REF•1Wiper arms - 12•13Wiper blades - 1•11Wiper fault - REF•16Wiper linkage - 12•14Wiper motor - 12•13, 12•15Wiring diagrams - 12•19 et seqWorking facilities - REF•8

Page 266: Rover 820, 825 & 827   1986-1995 D-N Reg Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1380 (Haynes Manuals)

REF•28

Almost every car you’ve ever loved, loathed or desired is gathered under one roof at the Haynes MotorMuseum. Over 300 immaculately presented cars and motorbikes represent every aspect of our motoring

heritage, from elegant reminders of bygone days, such as the superb Model J Duesenberg to curiosities likethe bug-eyed BMW Isetta. There are also many old friends and flames. Perhaps you remember the 1959 Ford

Popular that you did your courting in? The magnificent ‘Red Collection’ is a spectacle of classic sports carsincluding AC, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, MG, Riley, Porsche and Triumph.

A Perfect Day OutEach and every vehicle at the Haynes Motor Museum has played its part in the history and culture of

Motoring. Today, they make a wonderful spectacle and a great day out for all the family. Bring the kids, bringMum and Dad, but above all bring your camera to capture those golden memories for ever. You will also find

an impressive array of motoring memorabilia, a comfortable 70 seat video cinema and one of the mostextensive transport book shops in Britain. The Pit Stop Cafe serves everything from a cup of tea to

wholesome, home-made meals or, if you prefer, you can enjoy the large picnic area nestled in the beautifulrural surroundings of Somerset.

The Museum is situated on the A359 Yeovil to Frome road at Sparkford, just off the A303 in Somerset. It is about 40 miles south of Bristol, and 25 minutes drive from the M5 intersection at Taunton.

Open 9.30am - 5.30pm (10.00am - 4.00pm Winter) 7 days a week, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years DaySpecial rates available for schools, coach parties and outings Charitable Trust No. 292048

>John Haynes O.B.E.,

Founder andChairman of the

museum at the wheelof a Haynes Light 12.

<Graham Hill’s LolaCosworth Formula 1car next to a 1934Riley Sports.

<The Model J DuesenbergDerham Tourster. Only eight of thesemagnificent cars wereever built – this is theonly example to be foundoutside the UnitedStates of America

Preserving Our Motoring Heritage