Roman Jewelry class - ??29/06/20171 Making Period Jewelry class handout Ancient jewelry covers a wide variety of aesthetics and styles. Although most is beyond the reach of a basic artisan

  • Published on
    20-Mar-2018

  • View
    215

  • Download
    3

Embed Size (px)

Transcript

  • 1

    Making Period Jewelry class handout

    Ancientjewelrycoversawidevarietyofaestheticsandstyles.Althoughmostisbeyondthereachofabasicartisan,alargesubsectioncanbeauthenticallyrecreatedinamodernlivingroom.Withcarefullychosenmaterialsandapairofpliers,themorebasicartifactscanberecreatedbyintrepidSCAdianswithnopreviousjewelryexperience.Thegoalofthisclassistogetyoustartedmakingperiodjewelry.Whenyougethome,dosomeresearchintoYOURtimeandplace,andmakethat!MywebsitehasanexpandedpaperonMakingRomanJewelry(RomanaSum.com/papers).Ifyouneedhelpwithresearch,checkoutmyguideonthatsamepage,andclickonResearch&Documentationontherightcolumnforsomearticles.Onewaytogoistoreplicateindividualfinds.Youcanalsolookatalargenumberofpiecesinbooksandonmuseumwebsitesfromyourperiod,whichletsyouunderstandthataestheticandbeabletoinventjewelrythatwouldbecongruentwiththatculturalstyle.Note:Whenresearchingonline,painsmustbetakentovetallsourcescarefully.Forexample,manypieceslabeledRomanareapasticheofantiquitiesrestrung,remounted,andrearrangedwithlaterelements.ThiswasverypopularintheVictorianera,andcanevenbeseenfromotherwisetrustworthysiteslikeChristiesauctionhouse.Acloseexaminationofclaspsandfindingscanusuallyferretoutthetruth.Materials Carnelian,pearls,andemeraldwereRomanfavorites.BetweenextantRomanjewelrypiecesandPlinyswriting,wealsoknowtheyhadpearl,opal,carnelian,chalcedony(anditsvariants,onyx,sardonyx,agate),sapphire,starsapphire,ruby,garnet,amethyst,bloodstone,coral,amber,obsidian,rockcrystal(quartz),tigereye,turquoise,tourmaline,topaz,malachite,lapislazuli,andanarrayofcolorsofjasper.1Bone,ivory,shell,horn,andglasswerealsousedinjewelry.Whensubstituting,considercolor,opacity,andshape.

  • 2

    Stoneswerecutintodrums,bicones,spheres,tubes,andothercarvedshapes.Naturalcrystallinestructuresweresometimesdrilledandmounted.Basicfaceting2appearedinthe1stcentury.InordertocreatemoreconvincingstraightfromthedigRomanjewelry,whenpossibleIusestonesthatarehandshaped.Theslightlyirregularspheresaremoreauthenticlookingthanperfectlyroundmachinedbeads.TheRomansusedgoldinnaturalandrefinedalloys(combinationsofmetals).Bothcoinsandjewelryofmyperiodrun90-99%pure.3Iuseacombinationofbrassandhypoallergenicwireinagoldtone,focusingonyellowerwirethatmorecloselymatchesthepurityofthegoldoftheancientworld.Valuablegemnecklaceswereusuallystrungonmetalwire.Othershavebeenfoundwithorganicmaterialslikeflax,cotton,Egyptianreeds,andsinew.Evenanimalhairhorse,elephant,giraffe,andcow-wasused.

    Techniques & Tools

    Thissketch(Ogden,75)showsafewcommonRomantechniques,includingbothsolderingandwrappingofwire,tosecurebeads.Notetheinconsistencyinthenumberofcoilwraps.Forverticallystrungbeads,twists,loops,orsolderedbulbsonthebottomkeepsthebeadinplace.

    Claspsfornecklaceswerecasthooks,orwirewrappedtoformhooks(Johns,100).

  • 3

    Iusedroundnosedpliers,flatnosedpliers,andwiresnips.

    First,bendthewire,usingtheround-nosedpliers(sothewirecurvesinsteadofcreasing),untilyouhavealoop.Then,holdingtheloopfirmlywiththosepliers,usetheflat-nosedpliers(foraprecisegrip)oryourfingerstowrapthewire1-2timesaroundtheneckjustbelowtheloop.Clipoffanyexcesswireandusetheflatplierstopinchtheendclosetotheneck,sotheresnopointybittosnag.Ifyourloopisirregular,putitontotheround-nosedpliersandpinchtoshapeit.Videoinstructionhere:http://www.firemountaingems.com/resources/videos/652tModerntechniqueslikebendingthewirearoundtheplierstomakeaperfectcircle,ormarkingtheplierswithasharpie,willensureidenticallengths.AncientRomanjewelryhasacharmingirregularitythatIliketomaintain.Ontheright4,thedanglesonthisobviouslyexpensivecameohave8,7,and10wirewraps.Likewise,theywerentparticularlypreciseintheirloopsizes.Onethingthatmakesmodernreplicasstandoutisthepost-industrialobsessionwithsymmetry.Ipreferamoreorganic,handmadeaesthetic,andfinditsproductsmoreconvincingasaperioditem.InotherwordsRELAXitsokifitssloppy!

  • 4

    Bracelet:

    Awire-mountednecklaceofnaturalemeraldcrystals,fromtheMet(Left5).Below:Myrecreations.24gawireis

    durableenoughtowearforanecklace,butforbraceletsIprefer22ga(thewireisthickerasthenumbersgetsmaller).The

    hookclosureis20gawire.

    1) Cutapieceof22gawireabout3.Usingthetechniqueonthepreviouspage,makealargeloopandwrapthewiretosecureit.Thiswillbethelooppartoftheclasp.

    2) Putabeadonthewire.3) Makeasecond,smallloopattheotherendandwrap.Trimexcess.Yourbeadisnowsecure.

    4) Cutanother3pieceof22gawire,andmakeasmallloop.Stringabead,andmakeasecondsmallloop.Beforeclosingit,connectittothesmallloopofyourfirstpiece.

    5) Repeat#4untilthebraceletfitssnuglyaroundtheintendedwearerswrist.

    6) Cut4-5of20gawire.Makeahookononeend,tuckingthepointedendin.Attheotherend,makealoopandattachittothesmallloopofthelastbeadsegmentyoumade.Cutawayanyexcess.

    7) Checkoveryourbraceletforpokeyends.Usepliersorfilestofixthem.

  • 5

    Earrings Dangling Earrings Forthedanglingstyleofearring,theseparatewiremountedelementsmoveindependently.Thatis,theearringisacollectionofdistinctsegments,notmultiplebeadsstackedonasinglewire.

    6 7 8Below:Myrecreationsubstitutedcarneliansforthepearls,andaseedpearlfortheemerald.Ialsodidariffon#7,withanaventurinetube.

    1) Usethetechniquefrompage4tomakealoopandwrap.

    2) Stringyourbeadandmakeabottomloopsandwrap.

    3) Useaball-headpinORmakeonebybendingatight,tinyloopinwire.Addyourbead.Securewithaloopandwrap,joiningwiththetopsegment.

    4) GotoEarwiresection.

  • 6

    Crotalia Crotalia(fromtheGreekwordforrattleorcastanets)arenamedforthejinglingnoisetheyproducewhenworn.Earringsofthistype,withtwoorthreependants,wereextremelypopularwithRomanladies.NumerousexampleshavebeenfoundatPompeiiandHerculaneum.Thetrickhereisgettingyourdanglesthesamelengthsotheyhangevenly.Wedontneedperfectionhere,buttakesometimewithit.

    9 10

    1) Usingaball-headpin,threadabeadonandcreatealoop.Thesewontbeundermuchstress,soyoucanjustcutawaytheexcess.Ifyouprefer,hookthemontothefindingandwrapdownwardstowardsthebead.Bothlooksareperiod.NOTE:Ifyoudonthaveaball-headpin,youcanmakeatightlooporcoilattheendofthewireinstead(seemygreendangliesonpage5).

    2) Repeatuntilyouhaveadangleforeachloopofyourfindings.(4or6).

    3) Makeapairofearwires.

    Above:Ancientcrotalia.Right:Modernrecreations.Backviewofthepearlonetoshowthesecurityearwire.

  • 7

    Earwires Ialwaysusehypoallergenicoratleastnickel-freeforanythingtouchingtheskin,likeearwires.Whenusingmodernfindings,youmayneedtomodifythemalittle.Left,earwireaspurchased.Right,afterusingplierstostraightenthepre-madeangles.Thismorecloselymimicsancientshapes.Youcanalsomakeyourown,fromwire.Ifyoulookcloselyatthecrotaliapicturesyoucansee

    thebackoftheearwirerisesup.TheylookuncomfortablebutIcanattesttheyarenot.ThiswasapopularsecuritymeasureinRomanearrings.Ineithercase,usethesameloopingtechniquetoattachyourearrings.

    Final thoughts Iencourageyoutoconstantlycheckbackwithyourgalleryofextantpieces(Keepingthemalltogether,inacomputerfolderorPinterestboard,reallyhelpswithataglancereview)tostaywithinyourchosenstyle.

    Evenifyoustaytiedtothearcheologicalrecord,thereisstillplentyofopportunityforcreativity.Iwasthrilledbyhowmanyperiod-lookingcomponentsareoutthere,ifyoulookforthem.Somearetoopriceytomakepracticallargesseofferings,butothersarewellwithinamodestbudget.Ihopeitinspiresyoutomakejewelrythatsaccuratetoyourperiod,whateveritmaybe.Donthesitatetocontactmewithanyquestions!Yoursinservice,DominaTulliaSaturnina,JdLRomanaSum.com/Sharon@rosecityacupuncture.com6/29/17

  • 8

    Bibliography and Sources Coarelli,Filippo.GreekandRomanJewellery.Milan:HamlynPublishingGroup,1966.Croom,Alexandra.RomanClothingandFashion.Stroud,UK:AmberlyPublishing,2000.Henig,Martin.ReligioninRomanBritain.London:B.T.Batsford,1984.Higgins,Reynold.JewelleryfromClassicalLands.London:BritishMuseumPublications,1976.Higgins,Reynold.GreekandRomanJewellery.LosAngeles:UniversityofCaliforniaPress,1980.Johns,Catherine,&Potter,Timothy.TheThetfordTreasure:RomanJewelleryandSilver.London:BritishMuseumPublicationsLtd,1983.J.PaulGettyMuseum.HandbookoftheAntiquitiesCollection.LosAngeles:GettyPublications,2002.Kleiner,Diana&Matheson,Susan.IClaudiaII:WomeninRomanArtandSociety.Austin:UniversityofTexasPress,2000.Ogden,Jack.JewelleryoftheAncientWorld.NewYork:TrefoilBooks,Ltd.,1982.Pinckernelle,Kathia.TheIconographyofAncientGreekandRomanJewellery,UniversityofGlasgow,2007PlinytheElder.TheNaturalHistory(English)(ed.JohnBostock,M.D.,F.R.S.,H.T.Riley,Esq.,B.A.),Book37,TheNaturalHistoryofPreciousStones.Athttp://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/

  • 9

    Footnotes 1JohnBostockscommentaryonNaturalHistory,book372Goldandfacetedcarnelian.Rome,1st-2ndcenturyCE.TheWaltersArtMuseum,#57.1550https://thewalters.org/3Ogden,Jack.JewelleryoftheAncientWorld.NewYork:TrefoilBooks,Ltd.,1982.4NationalMuseumofGeorgia5Goldandemeraldnecklace,1-2ndcenturyCE,MetropolitanMuseumofArt,#21.29.26Gold,emerald,pearl.4.8cmThorvaldsensMuseum.Inventorynumber:H18367Gold,emerald.3.2cm.ThorvaldsensMuseum.Inventorynumber:H18298Gold,sapphire,pearl.3.4cm.ThorvaldsensMuseum.Inventorynumber:H18249MetropolianMuseumofArt,item#20.235.3.3cm.10Cameoandgoldearring(c.1toc.199Italy)http://www.onlinegalleries.com/art-and-antiques/detail/rare-roman-cameo-gold-earring-/76613

    Supplies Localcraftstores(JoAnnFabrics,CraftWarehouse,etc.)Localbeadstores(Googleisyourfriend)FireMountainGems.com(becarefulsomeofthestonestheysendoutaresuspect)ShipwreckBeads.comRioGrande.comEtsy&eBay

Recommended

View more >