Roden 1-48 Gloster Gladiator

7/30/2019 Roden 1-48 Gloster Gladiator

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1940 for operation by RAF 261 Squadron, which kept three flying and one in reserve.These were N5519, N5520, N5524 and N5531. Unserviceability due to damage and heavyusage required the erection of two more airplanes, N5523 and N5529 to maintain strength.These four operational Gladiators, out of a pool of six, were supplemented with fourHurricanes on June 28, 1940 and by 12 more Hurricanes on August 2, 1940. In early 1941the Gladiators were retired. N5520 was rebuilt and used for meteorological flights by 185Squadron. After being damaged in a ground loop it was rebuilt only to have its wings and

all its fabric blown off by a Nazi bomb blast. It was abandoned until September 3, 1943when the wrecked remains were presented to the people of Malta identified as "Faith".Sometime late in the war the legend of the three Gladiators - "Faith, Hope and Charity"-that had, alone, defended Malta for three months gained currency and has now become anestablished part of aviation lore. The six Gladiators, flown in rotation, that became thislegend were standard Sea Gladiators with tail hooks, dinghy packs and other "non-essential" gear removed to compensate for the added weight of an armored headrest. Oneof this lot, N5519, was at one point, due to a shortage of spares, fitted with the engine andcontrollable pitch propeller from a Blenheim bomber. The fuselage only of "Faith", N5520

or N5519 - there is a great deal of uncertainty about its identification - survives in theNational War Museum of Malta at Fort St. Elmo. The Malta Aviation MuseumFoundation will shortly begin the proper restoration of "Faith" with a set of wingsdonated by the RAF Museum-Hendon and other newly fabricated, or scrounged,components.

It's a good story and if it ain't true - it ought to be.

The Kit

Roden's new Gladiator is a very good - not a great -kit. I really wanted it to be great like Tamiya'sSwordfish or Accurate Miniatures' Grummanbiplanes. I was predisposed to like it and so wasunduly disappointed at its being only "very good" .So I dropped my intention of comparing it withTamiya's and Accurate Miniatures' biplanes andswitched my basis for comparison to the 37 yearold Inpact kit of the Gladiator and, for more

contemporary reference, to the Classic AirframesCurtiss P-6E, Boeing F4B-4/P-12E, GrummanDuck and Supermarine Walrus.

Now - with my druthers, and prejudiced biases revealed - let's look at the kit itself. Itcomes in a stout enough, rather large, lidded box; none of those flimsy, pre-crushed, end-opening affairs we've been getting from the near east. Eighty nine parts are well molded,with very few sink marks, in a pale grey styrene. Five sharply molded clear partscomprising a three-part windscreen/hood, instrument panel and belly I.D. light completethe plastic content of the kit. There are no resin or photo-etched parts included in this kit.
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The instructions, contained in 12 well illustratedpages of slightly less than A4 size, include: A brieftri-lingual (Ukrainian, German and English)history with specifications, general instructions,color guide (referencing paints by Humbrol,Testors, Gunze and Lifecolor names and numbers),parts map, 16 step assembly sequence, five three-

view color scheme drawings, rigging diagram andan ad for Roden's kit #405 - a Sea Gladiator andkit #401 - a Mk.II with ski option; both to bereleased in 2003.

Lamentably - to me - only one of the five color schemes is for a pre war silver wingedGladiator, that being K8036 of 33 Squadron in Palestine in early 1939. This is a very plainairplane completely bereft of the colorful squadron markings of the UK based airplanes ofthe period. The remaining four color schemes - all in the dark green/dark earth over

black/white fighter scheme of the 1939-1940 period - are for L8009 of 809 Squadron inEgypt in 1940, K7995 of 607 Squadron in the UK in 1939, K6134 of 112 Squadron in theSudan in late 1940 and L8011 of 80 Squadron in Amiyra, Egypt in early 1940. These fivecolor schemes are provided for on the sharp, well printed, kit decal sheet. I had access totwo kits for this review - one provided by the publisher of this magazine and one that Ipurchased from Squadron Mail Order for $23.96 (Why don't they quit this foolishness andsimply price it at $24?). The decals in my kit were in perfect register; the decals in thepublisher's kit had the bullseyes in the centers of the roundels slightly off center. Rodenpack a separate small instruction sheet with the decals calling attention to the fact theinstrument decals are reverse printed for application to the back side of the clear

instrument panel. In addition to the national and squadron markings, the decal sheetincludes extensive stenciling, the most unusual - and welcome - of which is Dunlopmarkings for the tires (tyres). I'll be photo-copying these and printing them in variousappropriate sizes on decal stock for other applications such as the Swordfish.

Engineering of the kit is conventional with twowelcome exceptions; all the control surfaces areseparate and the undercarriage joints are deep andof large contact area for strength. The top wing isone piece tip-to-tip and the bottom is in right andleft halves. The fin, rudder, stabilizers, elevatorsand ailerons are all also molded in one piece.Typical of smaller kit manufacturers, there are nolocating pins on the fuselage halves but there aredeep fitting tabs of good area for locating the lowerwing, the tailplane and the fin - no crude butt jointshere.

Kit Minuses

Wing and tail rib detail is weak and there is no rib tape detail. Sink marks in the propeller face blade roots and on the external skin along the molded

internal fuselage structural detail will require filling.
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Propeller rear face roots need a fair bit of reshaping for accuracy. The external, plate type, oil cooler molded integrally with the right fuselage half is veryshallow and weak on detail. Cabane and interplane struts are marginally too narrow in chord and a bit crude at their

ends. The interior detail, although more extensive than that of the Inpact kit, is much less thanon a typical Classic Airframes kit and is not up to the state of today's art. The kit design engineer did not address simplifying top wing installation or alignment.All you get is four individual cabane struts and four individual interplane struts and it's upto you fiddle the top wing into proper alignment. Monogram, Hasegawa, Matchbox, Frog,Heller, Tamiya and Accurate Miniatures did a good job of making top wing alignment apiece of cake for the modeler and I'm sure their mastering and mold making was no moreexpensive as a consequence. Biplanes will be more attractive to a wider market and sellbetter if kit designers will intelligently address this problem in their future efforts.Advanced modelers will build an assembly jig to ensure the top wing is correctly alignedwith the rest of the airplane but the less experienced may give up in frustration and buy no

more biplanes.

Kit Pluses

Control surfaces are all separate. Undercarriage/fuselage joints are really well engineered. Cockpit flap doors are separate. Stout enough, lidded box.

Items To Be Alert To

The kit provides a tropical carburetor intakefilter for use as appropriate and nothing - correctly- for the non tropical airplanes covered by the kitdecals. Beware; many Mk.I Gladiators had Mk.IInon-tropical intakes fitted. Always check yourreferences as well as your six. The underwing gun barrels WILL break off - replace them with barrels made frommetal tubing.

The cockpit fresh air intakes (parts 57D) inside the engine cowling need to be drilled out. Gladiators came from the factory with very nice, closely fitting fairings between the endsof the undercarriage struts and the inside faces of the internally sprung wheels. The kitdoes not provide these. You should also add the short length of brake hose between thestruts and the wheels. The kit does not include the three visually prominent exhaust collector mounting strutsthat attach to the engine crankcase. These are easily made from wire. The nose of the fuselage is a bit too full where it tucks inside the engine cowling. It's a

simple matter to correct with a bit of filing and sanding; check your reference drawings.

Conclusion

A very good - not a great - kit; quite buildable. I will kit-bash mine with an Inpact kit (orone of the reissues by Pyro, Lifelike, Hobby-Life and Lindberg) using the Inpact
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wheels/tires, oil cooler, and cabane and interplane struts. Roden deserve to have this kit bea good seller along with its soon to be release siblings. Now - Messrs. Roden, how aboutsome more biplanes, A Boeing-Stearman perhaps or a DeHavilland Tiger Moth or an Fw.Stieglitz?

I'm sure the manufacturers of aftermarket products will soon offer us resin, PE and decalsin plenitude for this kit. Presently the only other items I personally know of for the

Gladiator are a variety of decals. the Inpact, et al, kit contains decals for silver wingedMk.I K7985 of 738 Squadron at Digby in 1938. Replica Decals issued their sheet Z-4 backin the 1960s including markings for silver winged K6147 of 3 Squadron at Kenley in 1937and camouflaged Sea Gladiator N5519 of 261 Squadron at Luqa, Malta in 1940 (putativelyof Faith, Hope and Charity fame - see the History above). A few years ago Aeromasterreleased their sheet #48-187 for four camouflaged Gladiators: Pattle's Mk.I K7971 of 80Squadron at Larissa, Greece in 1941, Sea Gladiator N5519 of 261 Squadron - Malta, Sgt.Valio Porvari's Finnish Mk.II, GL-264 of LeLv 26 at Joetseno in 1942 and J-8 (theGladiator's Swedish designation) #15 of the Flygvapnet's Flygflottilj 19 volunteer unit at

Kemi in northern Finland in 1942. Robert Allen, editor of our IPMS-Seattle newsletteradvises that Max Decals sheet Max4801 has markings for Gladiator Mk.I #26 of the IrishAir Force and that Mike Grant Decals sheet 48-MG001 has markings for an EgyptianMk.II, a Luftwaffe Mk.I, a Greek Mk.I, a Lithuanian Mk.I, and a Latvian Mk.I. TheWarpaint book reviewed above also lists Tally Ho's sheet TH4207 with Finnish Air Forcemarkings.

Buy this kit and have fun. Better yet - buy several and have lots of fun.

* Some sources say 746 Gladiators were built but being a Boeing guy I naturally prefer the

number of 747.

References

On Silver Wings - RAF Biplane Fighters Between the Wars: Alec Lumsden & OwenThetford, Osprey Pubs., London, 1993, ISBN: 1-85532-374-5. Aeromodeller - December 1958: Famous Biplanes No. 18 Gloster Gladiator, C.A.G. Cox,short article with 1:48 scale drawings, detail sketches and photos. Aircraft Monograph - Gloster Gladiator: Francis K. Mason, MacDonald, UK, 1964.(Does any reader have a copy of this title they'd sell to me?) Profile Number 98 - The Gloster Gladiator: Francis k. Mason, Profile Publications, Ltd.,London. Camouflage & Markings, RAF Northern Europe 1936-45, Gladiator, Gauntlet, FuryDemon: James Goulding and Richard L. Ward, Ducimus, London. Air Enthusiast - March 1973: A fine in-depth article on the Gladiator. Scale Models - August 1973: Gloster's Gladiator & A Portfolio of Scale Data forModellers;many good detail photos. Airfix Magazine - January 1974: Fighting Colours 1914-1937, part 19: Guide to theGladiator, Bruce Robertson.

Flying - August 1976: Gladiator, James Gilbert, nostalgic article with many good colorphotos of Shuttleworth airplane. Scale Models - October 1978: Article on superdetailing the Matchbox kit. Scale Models - January 1980: Battle of Britain No. 5 - Building Gladiator Mk.II, N2308


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of 247 Squadron from the Frog kit, Ray Rimell and Neil Robinson, good detail photos. Scale Aircraft Modelling - May 1981: Aircraft In Detail - Gloster Gladiator, LindseyPeacock. Modelaid - Issue Unknown: Richard J. Caruana article on Faith, Hope & Charity. (Canany reader advise the issue?) Osprey Aircraft of the Aces - 44 - Gloster Gladiator Aces: Andrew Thomas, Osprey, UK,2002, ISBN: 1-84176-289X. Mushroom Magazine Special: Yellow Series - Gloster Gladiator: Alex Crawford,Mushroom Model Pubs., UK, 2002, ISBN: 83-916327-0-9. Monographie Lotnicze No. 24 - Gloster Gladiator: B. Belcarz & R. Peczkowski, Poland.(Does any reader have a copy of this title they'd sell to me?)

NB I have not listed the small William Green Fighters volume here as it is so long out ofprint and has nothing in it that is not covered in any of the above noted books. All of usold-timers have the "Little Green Books" but most of the younger enthusiasts have nevereven heard of them.

Our thanks toRodenandSquadronfor the review kits.
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Roden 1/48th GlosterGladiator MK. II

ByRick Geisler

A Deliberately Brief History

The Gloster Gladiator II was the last in a successful line of biplane fightersincluding the Grebe and Gauntlett. The last front line biplane fighter in service

with the RAF, obsolete at the outbreak of WWII , the Gladiator was forced tosoldier on in most theaters of operations. The Gladiators use in the defense ofFinland and Malta is legend. Less known and less documented is the use of theGladiator II by 247 squadron, RAF during the Battle of Britain! This is , ofcourse the squadron and aircraft I chose to model.

The Roden Kit

Roden has issued this aircraft in three versions, the

Mk. I, Mk. II, and the Sea Gladiator. The basiccomponents of all three kits are the same; theGladiator II contains extra parts for the three bladeprop, skis, and a survival pack for ditching at sea.Also included is a late style windscreen.

Moldings are generally very crisp, with flash found onthe three piece cowling and the cockpit area. Sink marks are evident on thefuselage relative to the interior framing and on the on the wings relating to theAileron wells. Wings are well molded with thin trailing edges. Fuselage ribbing

is well done! No starving cow effect here! The kit does have some issues whichwill be mentioned during the build portion of this article. Having read somenegative comments relative to the Roden kit I was determined to build it out ofthe box. I managed to keep AMS under control and only strayed with thecockpit interior!

Engine and Cowling: Step 1

Roden begins with the construction of the three piece

cowling. I assembled the cowling using tube gluecarefully aligning the outside edges. I then filled andsanded both the interior and exterior joints. Theinterior is not as critical as one might think as the
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engine and exhaust stubs cover most of this area. Remember that the cowl ringis actually the exhaust collector and must be painted a burnt metal color. Thisrequires a very smooth surface so use of a Cyanoacryllate is recommended as afiller. The engine is fairly well represented with crisp detail on the cylinders. Ifound that when the ring containing the push rods was installed the enginewould not fit through the rear cowling opening. I shaved the ends of the Pushrods to about .020 thickness. This allowed the engine to slide into place. I paintedthe engine Testors Metalizer Burnt Iron, dry brushed with Steel and Aluminum.A wash of Black and Burnt Sienna Oils completed the painting of the Engine. Donot glue the engine to the cowling at this point as the painting of the exterior ofthe cowling is much easier if left separate.

Note: If one is looking to enhance this kit, replace the push rods with thematerial of your choice. Engine details are also included on the Eduard and Partphoto etched sets.

Cockpit Interior: Step 2Next up for assembly is the Cockpit interior. The kitsupplied interior is adequate for a closed canopyaircraft. Add an appropriate harness and paint asdirected. A friend of mine was ordering fromSquadron and offered to add the True DetailsGladiator II cockpit interior for me, so I opted for theupdate! The interior is not the typical True DetailsShake and Bake tub. The framework is tricky to

trim from the pouring molds, ( I broke 2 frames during this process). Iassembled the cockpit per instructions. The fit was not the best I haveencountered in resin interiors! I found it necessary to insert the lower wings intothe fuselage while assembling in order to ensure that the framework did not foulthe fit of the wings. In the end I had to trim a small piece from the wing locatingtabs to clear the ammo box. The map case was indicated as being located on theport fuselage side. The interior photo of the Glad. II in the Squadron, Gladiator in Action book clearly shows this on the Starboard forward fuselage.

If installed per instructions the Map case interferes with the fit of the Lever

mounted on the Port framework. I chose to use the True Details instrumentpanel painted Satin Black, with Gloss Black Dials and white details. The kitpanel could be very effective if one substitutes Reheator similar dial decals for the kit dials which did not fitor adhere. The closing of the fuselage is a problem.True Details would have you Slide the Machine Gunsinto place and then clamshell the instrument panel.This proves to be difficult if not impossible! I chose tocut off the right Barrel, close the fuselage in thenormal manner, adding the barrel to the outside after

assembly.

Note: If you are using the TD interior I would suggest gluing the Side frames totheir respective locations using the rear bulkhead as a guide. Install the Machine
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guns, and align the floor to fit , gluing it to one side. Assemble the fuselage in thenormal manner.

Interior colors consisted of British Interior Green( Poly Scale) and Aluminum framework.

Knobs and levers painted as per instructions. Weathering with Artists oils of Burnt Sienna,

Burnt Umber and Black

Rigging Prep: Step 3

Rigging preparation was the next step in my build. Ichose to try a method I had wanted to experimentwith for some time. In the past all of my rigging wasaccomplished with Heat Stretched Sprue. With thisbuild I decided to use structural Rigging withMonofilament. Therefore I began drilling tiny littleholes in all of the proper location. .Roden makes this

easy as most of the rigging attachment points areindicated with raised plastic Pips or bumps. I must say that I went throughquite a few drill bits, #79, breaking many! Thanks to Ira and Mac for the quickresupply! I did say most locations are indicated as there are some missing. Onlyone set of Ailerons has the locations marked, and on my kit the rear location onthe fin is not represented.

Note: If using HSS or Steel wire, prepare your kit per your preference!

Lower Wing and Strut Assembly: Step 4

The next step is assembling the lower wings, tail surfaces,

landing gear legs, and struts. Take care in aligning the lower

wings as fit of struts and their subsequent alignment with the

upper wing are based on this assembly. Glue on the Landing

gear legs. These parts have significant sink marks and mold

seems to deal with. The separate control surfaces require

tweaking to get them to fit. I believe that the Aileron part

numbers are reversed. This is not a big deal as the fit will show

you the way! The struts were then installed with Styrene cement

( I wanted to be able to maneuver after installation) and the model turned upside down to align

the struts to the locating holes on the upper wing. Everything lined up well with all struts beingthe proper length.

Note: The Cabane struts are too narrow in chord! If you are superdetailing use Airfoil shaped

strut material, Strutz, or your choice to form your own. As the length is true use the kit supplied

struts to form your replacements. It has also been suggested that the Interplane struts are too

narrow. I did not see this as a problem, use your own judgement!

Camouflage and Markings: Step 5

As stated earlier I chose to do an Aircraft of 247Squadron R.A.F. The Roden kit supplies a scheme forthis squadron but I had reservations about the schemeas presented for the time frame.( Black and White
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undersides). Using two non primary sources (no pictures) , The Aeromasterinstructions (downloaded from their web page), and Battle of Britain Aircraft(Argus Books) I chose my scheme. I Painted the model Dark earth, Dark Green,and Sky. The pattern was somewhat sketchy as no Starboard side pattern wasindicated. I finally decided on a modified Munich crisis camouflage pattern seenin Camouflage and Markings (Ducimus). I used Polyscale, Tamiya, and TestorsAcrylics, Varying the shades of color to give the Aircraft a worn re- paintedlook. .I chose to use a method of masking I had not used before, Silly Putty! Thisworks great for a Hard Line demarcation! Roll it out, shape it to the desiredpattern, and spray the next color. No lifting of previous colors, no mess, andreusable! At this time I installed the upper wing. The struts aligned well, and noproblems were encountered. No jig was used in construction. After a coat ofFuture I began to decal. Having been warned in advance of the now infamousRoden Decal problems, I pre coated the decals with Micro Scale Decal Film.Next the Port Roundel and Fin stripe were applied.These were not lying down as well as I am used to, so I

cut, sliced, and diced. After this and several coats ofsetting solution the Decals were beginning to adhere tothe surface detail. I next soaked the StarboardRoundel. When I removed it from the backing itshattered! Now I was faced with a dilemma. NoRoundels in my spares box would match the decalsalready applied. I tried to strip the decals taking off paint in the process. (Atleast we know they will adhere once down). The repair involved sanding with400, and 600 grit wet or dry, moving on to 1000, 6000, and 8000, polishing cloths.After a repaint and a small correction to the camo, I began the search for the

Aeromaster Decals. These were generously supplied by a WW1 list member!(Thanks Jim) The Aeromaster sheet supplies N2308, coded HP -B as one of itsoptions. This aircraft is pictured in the Gladiator in Action book still carryingthe codes of its previous owners. All went well with this decaling experience.

With minor slicing and setting solution the decaling of the fuselage wascompleted. Note: Definitive Camouflage schemes for these aircraft are hard tocome by. I used what I considered to be a reasonable choice! Other opinions mayvary.

Rigging: Step 6Once the decals were dry I began the rigging process. I chose to

use Heat Stretched Sprue for the bracing wires between the

Cabanes and the Interplanes. All of the major rigging was

Monofilament and Tapered Fly Fishing leader. Using the pre-

drilled holes I attached the wires to the undersurface of the

Upper wing with superglue. When dry the wires were fed

through the lower wing and secured with a drop of Superglue. to

the underside. This dries quickly and it is an easy matter to slice

off the excess wire and glue. A light sanding and you are good to

go.Touch up the paint where necessary and Gloss and decal the wings. Next up is the Stiffener?,Spacer for the rigging wires. Yet another WW1 list member suggested plastic rod grooved to sit

over the wires. This came out OK, not perfect because of My inability to judge the Angle of the

wires !I also used rod that was perhaps 2 sizes too large in diameter.( It looked good when I
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started). More practice will be required to perfect this feature. Many Good modelers have

simply left them off. Note: The actual wire on the Gladiator was Airfoil shaped or Flat wire.

Aeroclub makes Stretchy Rigging wire I am told works well for this purpose.

Final Assembly: Step 7

Final assembly included adding the Step, Fin mounted Antenna

Mast, the step on the Fuselage, and Antenna wires. The cowlingand exhausts were also permanently mounted at this time.

Canopies were attached using white glue .Fit of the rear canopy

is not good. I plan on replacing mine with one from Squadron so

I sanded the rear section slightly on the lower sides. This

improved the fit allowing the Sliding center section to fit properly in the open position.

This kit builds into a nice replica out of the box .Items needing attention for amore accurate Gladiator include:1. Engine Push Rod assembly

2.Cowling3. Fuselage should have a Rectangular opening for the Elevator Control Rod.4. Cabane struts need to be wider in chord, and have a mount to the upper wingsimilar to the Interplanes.5. With open canopy and access doors a more detailed interior is a must.Eduard, Part, and True Details all make updates. The Photo Etched sets alsocontain a myriad of other detailing parts.

In conclusion I would I have read statements that the old

Pyro/Impact/Lindberg kit is a better build. IMHO if the modeler

takes the time and effort necessary to bring the old kit up totodays molding standards, ( and correct some of the same

problems amongst others), into the Roden Glad you will have a

SHOWSTOPPER! Thanks to IM,Roden, and Matt for giving

me the opportunity to build this kit.

References: Battle of Britain Aircraft; Argus 1990

The Gloster Gladiator in Action; Squadron/Signal

Camouflage and Markings; Doubleday 1971, or Ducimus 1970-1971
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