TECHNICAL DATA:

RMS Titanic’s lifeboatModel no: 19016 Degree of difficulty:Length: 285mm (117/32in)Height: 55mm (2 3/32in)Beam: 95mm (3 9/16in)Scale: 1:35

The RMS Titanic was a second of a trio of Olympic-classtransatlantic liners (along with RMS Olympic and HMHSBritannic), launched on 31 May 1911 and entering service

on 10 April 1912. She was the largest and most luxurious passengerliner of her day. On her maiden voyage to New York she struck aniceberg on 14 April and sank. The Titanic’s lifeboats brought only705 people to safety out of a total of 2,207 passengers andcrew.This model is a faithful reproduction of Titanic’s 14 standard lifeboats, which each had a capacity of 65 people.

Not suitable for children under 14 years of age. Model for collectors only.

TITANIC’S LIFEBOATS

The original design for Titanicincluded the suggestion byAlexander Carlisle, the

managing director of the shipbuildersHarland and Wolff, that the ship beprovided with 64 lifeboats using a newdesign of davit by the Welin Davit &Engineering Company, London, whichcould handle more boats. Each of the16 double-acting quadrant davits couldcarry boats one on top of the otherand another inboard, and so werecapable of launching three boats insuccession and could have beenmodified to handle four.

The number of lifeboats wasreduced, first, to 48 – enough foreveryone on board – and then underpressure from the owners, White StarLine, to 40, 32 and finally to 16 30-foot (9.14-metre)- long boats, plusfour Englehardt collapsible lifeboats.

This apparently cavalier attitudetowards the passengers and crewwas, however, perfectly legal as theBoard of Trade regulations stipulatedthat ships over 10,000 tons wererequired to carry just 16 lifeboats

with a capacity of 5,500 cubic feet(160 cubic metres), plus rafts andfloats for 75 per cent of the boats. Ineffect, Titanic carried more lifeboatcapacity than required by law, eventhough it weighed in at 46,000 tons.

The Board of Trade regulations hadnot been updated since 1894 and nochanges were made because of thebelief that the advances in shipbuildingand the introduction of watertightcompartments meant that lifeboatswere unlikely to be needed at all. Forthe White Star Line the reductions incosts of providing lifeboats just abovethe legal minimum were obvious, andas the lifeboats were stowed on theupper boat deck, it was felt that fewerlifeboats would give the first-classpassengers wider and less clutteredpromenading spaces.

Standard lifeboatsNo plans exist for the woodenlifeboats and the whereabouts of theactual lifeboats is a mystery. There is

Titanic carried a total of 20 lifeboats with enough capacity to carry 1,178people, representing just over a half of the 1,316 passengers and 891crew on board. There were 14 wooden lifeboats, four collapsible lifeboatsand two wooden emergency cutters. They saved only 705 people.

Above: A standard lifeboat with mastraised, but powered by oars approaches the rescue ship Carpathia. To the left of the picture is one of the four collapsible lifeboats on board the Titanic.

Below: Titanic’s lifeboats shown in NewYork harbour. The present whereaboutsof the boats is unknown.

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DIMENSIONS OF THE TYPES OF LIFEBOATEmergency cutter 1Length: 25ft 2in (7.68m)Height: 3ft (0.9m)Beam: 7ft 2in (2.19m)Capacity: 40 persons

Emergency cutter 2Length: 23ft 2in (7m)Height: 3ft (0.9m)Beam: 7ft 1in (2.16m)Capacity: 40 persons

Standard lifeboatsLength: 30ft (9.14m)Height: 4ft (1.21m)Beam: 9ft 1in (2.77m)Capacity: 65 personsNumber: 14 (no. 3–16)

Englehardt collapsible lifeboatsLength: 27ft 5in (8.38m)Beam: 8ft (2.4m)Capacity: 47 personsNumber: 4 (A, B, C, D)

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Standard lifeboat

Collapsible lifeboat

Emergency cutter

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speculation that they were eitherdestroyed by the owners, as theywere such a potent symbol of thedisaster, or reconditioned andreliveried to be used on other ships of the White Star Line.

There probably never were any plans, as this type of boat wastraditionally built ‘to the eye’ byexperienced shipwrights. Thelifeboats were designed by Harlandand Wolff’s chief draughtsman,Roderick Chisholm, to Board ofTrade specifications. They would havebeen inspected at various timesduring construction and were of the‘double bow’ or double-ender type.

The keels were made in straight-grain and knot-free elm, the stems and stern posts in oak. The timbers,spaced about 9in (23cm) apart, werealso in elm, while the seats were ofpitch pine secured with galvanized iron double knees. All the boats wereclinker-built in yellow pine, which wasfastened with copper nails cinched overgrooves. The buoyancy tanks were of18oz (510g) copper and rope lifelineswere fitted around the gunwales.

Each boat was supplied with oars,mast, sails stowed in painted bags,water tank and drinking beaker, a seaanchor and a fitting for a spirit boatcompass. The compass itself was,however, stored in safe-keeping onboard Titanic herself, along with oillamps and survival biscuits. In theconfusion, not all of the launchedboats were provided with any of this equipment. The oil lamps, forexample, were in the charge of theship’s lamp trimmer who broughtthem out after a number of thelifeboats had already been launched.

Englehardt collapsible lifeboatsThe Titanic’s collapsible lifeboats had awooden hull with pull-up canvas sides.The advantage of these boats was thatthey could be stowed almost flatagainst a bulkhead and took up verylittle deck space. On the Titanic,collapsibles A and B were stowed portand starboard on the roof of theofficers’ quarters, next to the firstfunnel. Collapsibles C and D wereplaced alongside the emergencycutters. These collapsible lifeboats hadbeen demonstrated to be as safe as asea-going boat. Collapsible A stayedafloat for a month before it was foundby RMS Oceanic, drifting in the opensea with three dead bodies aboard.

Emergency cuttersThe wooden cutters were of similarconstruction to the standard lifeboats.They were hung from davits over theside of the ship and their mainpurpose was to respond if there was a ‘man overboard’; they were also todouble as lifeboats if necessary.

Above: Passengers promenading on theboat deck with the covered lifeboats andWelin davits behind.

PLAN OF THE BOAT DECKThe lifeboats were numbered in evennumbers on the port side, unevennumbers on the starboard.

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GENERAL TIPS

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1. Follow all assembly steps CAREFULLY. Take all the time you need. First look at thephotos and read all the documentation includedin the kit, as it will help you assemble themodel correctly:•Parts list with Dimensions and Materials.•Cut Sheet with precision-cut numbered parts.•These instructions.

3. To cut to size and identify the parts whichare not prefabricated, look at the parts listwhere you will find:•Part number.•Part description.•Number of same parts to be cut and used

in the model.•Part dimensions (thickness, width, length,

in that order).•Material used to make the parts (subject to

modification by prior notification.

ATTENTION! Assemble under adult supervision. Unsuitable for children under 14. To assemble this model we recommend that you follow the step-by-step guide.

2. To remove the wood pieces (see CutSheets), carefully cut the tiny strands joiningthem to the sheet. Use the Cut Sheets toidentify fully the precision-cut parts.

After removing the parts from the sheets touse them during assembly, carefully sand thembefore gluing in place.

Given the nature and origin of the wood,there may be slight differences in the tone or colour of some material.

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4. To ensure the perfect adjustment of castmetal parts, go over the edges with a small file before fitting to eliminate possible burrs and impurities.

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5. To give a more authentic appearance to the ship’s sails, dye them in some tea. Whencompletely dry, add them to the ship withoutironing them.

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6. For parts that need bending or curving,dampen them in water for greater flexibility. Youcan also use a bending press, or plankbender,which is highly useful during assembly.

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7. Before mounting the pulley blocks or dead-eyes, it is best to enlarge the holes with a0.75mm diameter drill.

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GLUESApply glue sparingly and in strict accordancewith the manufacturer’s instructions. There aredifferent types of glues that can be used toassemble the model.White glueThis is also known as carpenter’s glue or PVA. It can be applied directly or with a brush to one of the parts to be glued. Clean off anyexcess glue immediately after joining the parts to avoid staining when fully dry.Contact glueThis glue can be applied with either a brush or aflat spatula. Apply a thin coat to both surfaces tobe joined. Before joining the parts, leave forapproximately five minutes. After joining, applylight pressure and remove excess glue.Fast-drying glueApply a tiny amount directly to the point wherethe parts are to be joined. It is very importantthat the parts are correctly positioned as youwill not be able to move the parts again to setthem correctly.Metal glueSuper Glue Gel or Two-part epoxy gluePUTTIESUse regular stopping putty for wood. Read themanufacturer’s instructions carefully!Applying puttyTo fill holes or cracks in the ship’s hull, applythe putty with a flat spatula. Allow to dry andsoftly sand the entire surface of the hull to leveloff the putty. VARNISHESUse clear (not coloured) stopping varnish. Readthe manufacturer’s instructions carefully!Applying varnishUse a brush to apply varnish to wood. Sand the surface and thoroughly clean the partbefore varnishing. Varnish as follows:

1. Apply a first coat and allow to dry.2. When dry, sand and clean the part.3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2.4. Apply a third coat and allow to dry.5. When dry, polish the part using steel wool.

PAINTSUse acrylic (water-based) paints. Read themanufacturer’s instructions carefully!Applying paintUse a paintbrush. Sand the surface and clean thepart thoroughly before painting. Paint in thefollowing order.

1. Apply a coat of varnish to prepare the surface to be painted. Allow the part to dry.

2. When dry, sand and clean the part.3. Apply a first coat of paint and allow to dry.4. When dry, apply a second coat of paint.

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Ref: Description Quantity Dimensions (mm) Material1 Vertical keel 1 Pref 4 Plywood

2–6 Frames 10 Pref 4 Plywood7 First strengtheners to bow and stern 4 Pref 4 Plywood8 Second strengtheners to bow and stern 4 Pref 4 Plywood9 Stem and sternpost 2 Pref 3 Basswood

10 Keel 1 3x6x200 Basswood11 Clear battens in hull plating 24 1.5x7x310 Basswood12 Dark battens in hull plating 4 1.5x7x310 Walnut13 Bow and stern frame plating 13 1x4x30 Basswood14 Bow and stern bases 2 Pref 2 Walnut15 Edgings of bow and stern bases 2 1.5x3x58 Sapele16 Deck floor plating 9 1.5x4x200 Basswood17 Side bases 2 Pref 2 Walnut18 Side walls of drawers 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood19 Small covers for drawers 12 1.6x6x7 Basswood20 Large covers for drawers 8 1.5x7x8 Basswood21 Lower skirtings 2 2x2x190 Walnut22 Side skirtings 4 2x2x12 Walnut23 Transversal battens in flooring 21 2x2x56 Basswood24 Lengthwise battens in flooring 13 1.5x3x190 Basswood25 Upper skirtings of bases 2 1.5x4x62 Walnut26 Central bases 4 1.5x8x58 Walnut27 Curves on side bases 16 Pref 1.5 Sapele28 Stanchions 84 1.5x1.5x5 Walnut29 Curved gunwale covers on bow and stern 4 Pref 2 Walnut30 Straight gunwale covers 2 2x3x170 Walnut31 False upper end of stem and sternpost 2 2x3x4 Walnut32 Rudder tiller 1 Pref 3 Sapele33 Rudder plate 1 Pref 3 Sapele34 Wood brackets 10 Pref 1.5 Sapele35 Rubbing strakes 2 2x2x300 Sapele36 Eyebolts 26 Pref 7 Brass37 Rope for deploying liferaft 2 diam 0.5x360 Brown thread38 Emblem (Liverpool) 2 Pref Brass39 Company emblem (White Star Line) 2 Pref Brass40 Ship’s name emblem (S.S. Titanic) 2 Pref Brass41 Circular emblem (registration) 2 Pref Brass42 Rudder blade hooks 2 diam 0.8x6 Brass wire43 Covers for the bow and stern drawers 2 1.5x4x12 Basswood44 Handles for drawer covers, bow and stern 2 diam 0.8x14 Brass wire45 Bases for boat hook 2 1.5x8x12 Walnut46 Hook lugs 4 diam 0.8x18 Brass wire47 Rings 2 diam 6 Brass48 Mast hole cover 1 Pref 2 Walnut49 Anchor rope 1 diam 0.5x200 Brown thread50 Anchor body 1 Pref Cast in metal51 Anchor arms 1 Pref Cast in metal52 Lower skirtings in bow and stern 2 2x2x25 Walnut53 Bow curves 2 2x3x7 Walnut54 Oar arms 4 diam 3x110 Sapele55 Oar blades 4 1.5x7x34 Walnut56 Boarding perch 1 diam 3x94 Sapele57 Strengthener on boarding perch 1 diam 0.15x50 Fine raw thread58 Hooks for boarding perch 2 diam 0.8x6 Brass wire59 Yard 1 diam 3x150 Sapele60 Mast 1 diam 5x210 Sapele61 Buckets 4 Pref diam 8 Boxwood62 Bucket handles 4 diam 0.8x15 Brass wire63 Rope bobbins 4 diam 0.15x150 Fine raw thread64 Lifeboat floats 4 Pref Cast in metal65 Ropes for securing oars, yard and mast 6 diam 0.5x70 Brown thread

LIST OF PARTSRequired extra tools and accessories:•White glue (item 27601)•Quick-drying glue (item 27611)•Putty, to be used before painting•Sand papers – medium grain (240),

very fine grain (1000)•Brush (at least 2 recommended)

Recommended extra tools and accessories:•Airbrush (the best tool for painting the hull in white) and a compressor or propellant. We recommend item 27097, a combopack designed for the occasional modeller. For those seekingmore professional products, we also have them in our range.•Bending press, or plankbender (item 27024) • Medium-grain file•Electric grinder/drill (item 27077) and accessories

All tools andmaterials areavailable from

www.model-space.co.uk

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STEP BY STEPCheck that all the necessary ship parts are present and that you have all the necessary paints, varnishes and glues and thetools that you need to build the model. Follow the steps CAREFULLY. !

1Remove all the frames 2 to 6 and the vertical keel 1 from the 4mm plywood pre-cut sheet. Fit and glue frames 2 to 6, into their corresponding slotsin the vertical keel 1, ensuring that each is perpendicular, making a 90º angle with the keel. They should be fitted evenly, leaving them flush with the

vertical keel (broken red lines). Use white glue.

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Vertical keel and frames

2Fit and glue the first four strengtheners 7 (two on the bow and two on the stern) to the vertical keel 1. Fit and glue between frames 2 and 3 thesecond four strengtheners 8 (two on the bow and two on the stern) to the vertical keel 1. Use white glue.

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3Once the frame of the hull is completed and the glue thoroughly dried out, clean up the structure by removing any sharp edges on the frames andbow and stern reinforcements so that the hull can be fitted correctly. First, use a medium-grain file and then sand down. When filing and sanding

down all the frames and strengtheners, pay special attention to the bow and stern of the ship, sanding both areas as shown in the photos. While sanding,offer up one of the basswood plating battens at different levels on the frame of the hull to ensure that the plating will fit the contours of the hull (brokenred lines). Fit and glue the stem and sternpost 9 on the vertical keel 1. With the 3 x 6mm basswood batten, make and fit the keel 10.

4With the basswood 1.5 x 7mm battens 11, plate the hull. The lifeboat is clinker-built, so fit the battens on top of one another, like roof tiles.Begin by fitting the first 1.5 x 7mm batten to the boat keel. Fit the following one with a 2mm overlap, leaving 5mm spare. Use quick-drying glue

(do not use nails). First, glue the central part of the batten, then glue each one of its ends. Repeat this operation, at the same time plating both theport and the starboard sides alternately to avoid small distortions in the hull. Finally, fit the dark walnut 1.5 x 7mm batten 12 flush to the lastbasswood batten (blue arrows). The dark walnut 1.5 x 7mm battens will arrive with your second dispatch.

Modelling the hull, stem, keel and sternpost

Hull plating

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5 Filing and sanding down the inside of the boat

5With the help of a mini-drill fitted with a small abrasive cone-shaped wheel, sand down the upper part of the ends of the vertical keel 1 of the frame2 and of the first strengtheners 7 so that there is a small ‘tongue’ (red arrow). Next place a 1.5 x 7mm basswood batten between the two frames 3

to use as a straight edge to mark the rest of the frames 4, 5 and 6. Use the mini-drill fitted with a cylindrical-shaped accessory with fine grain to sanddown the tops of the frames (broken blue line).

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