REPORT ABOUT THE 5TH BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE

KATHMANDU – LANGTANG - KATHMANDU: 16th AUGUST – 22nd SEPTEMBER 2006

CHRONOLOGIC OVERWIEW: 13. - 14. 08. Travelling of the Slovenian instructors from Ljubljana to Kathmandu 16. - 25. 08. Preparation of the course in Kathmandu and course in Kathmandu 26. - 29. 08. Trekking to Kyanjing Gompa and course during the trekking 30. 08. - 04. 09. Course in Kyanjing Gompa 05. 09. - 16. 09. Trekking to high altitude base camp, course and return to Kyangching Gompa 19. - 22. 09. Return to Kathmandu 22. - 23. 09. Completion in Kathmandu 25. 09. Return to Ljubljana REPORT ABOUT THE COURSE DURATION A TEACHERS (INSTRUCTORS), LEADERSHIP OF THE COURSE 1. MATJAŽ ŠERKEZI 1980, Slovenia PZS instructor, leader of the course 2. DA GOMBU SHERPA 1954, Nepal NMA instructor, chief coordinator 3. NGAWANG NIMA SHERPA 1967, Nepal NMA instructor, chief instructor 4. SHREE MAHARJAN 1978, Nepal NMA instructor 5. LHAKPA NORBU SHERPA 1951, Nepal NMA instructor 6. PREM BAHADUR GURUNG 1979. Nepal NMA instructor 7. MULAL GURUNG 1971, Nepal NMA instructor 8. ROK MAČEK 1978, Slovenia doctor 9. PASANG SHERPA 1975, Nepal NMA instructor 10. RAFAEL KOLB 1963, Slovenia SV instructor 11. FRANC ODERLAP 1958, Slovenia PZS instructor

All Nepali instructors finished at least three months long course for instructors in ENSA (France) before coming to base course as instructors. B STUDENTS 37 students, three of them female and three foreigners (1 Pakistani girl and 2 Tailand’s) started with the course, and all of them came to the end. Average age was 25 years. They had very different previous mountaineering experience and also very different basic knowledge: from the summiteers (three times on the top of Sagarmatha or Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma) to the beginners, who was the first time in the mountains. Three of them did not know write and read. Therefore the mutual help was necessary and successful. All of students showed a great wish and will to learn and to get further experience. C TECHNICAL ORGANISATION NMA took care of the technical organisation of this course in Kathmandu. Trekking agency ARUN took care of technical organisation from Kyanjing Gompa to high altitude camp and back (lodging, transport of loads and food). Mr. Dawa Sherpa was responsible for the work of 10 member-staff of agency. He and all staff did their work excellent

The representative of NMA was Mr. Da Gombu Sherpa. He did his work excellent as a representative and also as an instructor. His help during the course was very precious and it is a great part to thank him that the course was so successful. Mr. Tul Singh Gurung was responsible for the equipment and he done his work excellent. D REALISATION OF THE COURSE The detailed description about the realization of the course is given in attachment THE SUMMARY OF THE 20TH (5TH) BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE LANGTANG -2006. E COMPLETITION, REMARKS, SUGGESTIONS, RECOMMENDATIONS 1. This basic course was the fifth according to suggested – THE PRINCIPLES OF ACHIEVING THE

TITLE “GUIDE OF NMA”. Therefore the Nepali and Slovenian prepared together the schedule of the course. Mr. Da Gombu Sherpa and Mr. Matjaž Šerkezi took special care about the summary of the course and they will prepare some changes for the next basic course.

2. The chief instructor on the course was Mr. Ngawang Nima Sherpa. He did his work very well according the actual circumstances.

3. The leadership of the course consisted of three persons: Mr. Da Gombu Sherpa as representative of NMA and chief coordinator, Mr. Ngawang Nima Sherpa as the chief instructor and Mr. Matjaž Šerkezi as the leader of the course. The consultations were made before every important decision. All decisions were accepted unanimously.

4. All instructors did his work excellent. The cooperation and aid between them was excellent. 5. Instructors performed consultation constantly: Every day before detached lessons they

harmonized less or more within themselves with the lesson, which should be lectured. Every instructor made his own preparation for the lesson.

6. All instructors were present on all theoretical lectures and helped to lecturer, if necessary. 7. Even if the weather this year was bad we finished with program according to our plan. The

practice place under Ganja La is excellent place for basic mountaineering course. 8. In the future the dates of the courses should be determined in advance. My suggestion is:

a) Basic mountaineering course – every year from 15. September till 15. October, approximately. b) Basic course for NMA guides – every second year from 1. May to 10. June, approximately. c) Advance and other courses – after or before Basic courses.

9. The time of the course in Kathmandu was proper. In Kathmandu were done only some theoretical lectures and than we went in the mountains. Climbing garden in Karkani is not convenient for the beginner in mountaineering, because climbing wall is too dangerous and also there is no need to climb on artificial wall on basic courses.

10. As for this course as for all courses the agreement about rules and regulation on the course between students and NMA should be underwritten. It is recommendable also to make similar agreement between instructors and NMA.

11. The selection of trainees was not proper. Some of trainees should not be on basic course because they were too lazy. The next selection should also include physical tests and not just recommendation of agencies. The same selection must be also for foreign trainees.

12. The all instructors should have a medium first aid kit and the students a small first aid kit. This time the students on this course did not get a small first aid kit from the doctor, because doctor enjoyed to Slovenian instructors in last few days.

13. Slovenian instructor’s prepared detailed handbook in three parts in year 2002 and NMA copied these parts in sufficient number. This handbook is useful for the basic course for NMA guides (with additional topics) but it is too much extensive for the basic mountaineering course. NMIA prepared a smaller book for the basic course, but in the book, there are some things, which are not suitable for the basic course. Therefore we are preparing handbook with all basic parts of all necessary topic represented as much as possible in pictures. This handbook will be “the law for the basic course”.

14. The exams were as much as possible practical, but it is recommended to prepare more exact instruction of exams performing for instructors.

15. Where the actual situation did not allow performing the exam (lack of snow, etc.) the real circumstances were taken in account.

16. During the course “Personal examination paper” was used for the execution of the exams. It was very useful and it is recommended to use it in the future, too. Suggestion is that leader of the course keeps “Personal examination paper”.

17. The Nepali instructors are quite capable to execute the basic mountaineering course by themselves very well but it is recommendable the cooperation with some other (foreigner) instructors (Slovenian) to improve and share the knowledge and to make the course more effective. On this case only one or two foreign instructor and the doctor should take the place, all other instructors should be Nepali in the future, too.

18. It is recommended to prepare the instructions about lectures and practice of topics for instructors to make easier teaching.

19. The discipline during the course was excellent. 20. Although nobody needed the help of helicopter rescue, such insurance should be provided for all

the following courses. 21. In program should be added at least one planed entertainment evening. 22. On this course there was no graduation of the students. It was only important that the student

had a minimum of knowledge about certain matter. If somebody did not have that, we repeated the exam so many times that they achieved this minimum. It is suggested that the non-graduation system will be also used on all basic courses.

23. Before the end of the course students answered the questionnaire about the course that we get feed back about the course, organization, etc. The questionnaire should be little changed.

24. The care from the NMA for the Slovenian instructors was excellent during whole their staying in Nepal.

25. For the future, it is recommended to prepare a short refreshment course for the instructors just before the basic course. One to two days should be performed before the start of the basic course; other lectures should be done during the course.

26. In short: During the course there were wetness, coldness, fog, and hard work, but excellent cooperation among the instructors and also among the students. Therefore the course was successful and achieved its goal: To give the participants the basic knowledge and taste about mountaineering.

Matjaž Šerkezi Leader of the course

Kathmandu, 23rd September 2006 Attachments: 1 - THE FORESEEN TIMETABLE OF THE BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE 2006 2 - THE TENTATIVE PROGRAM OF THE BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE 2006 3 - LIST OF TOPICS 4 - THE SUMMARY OF THE 5TH BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE LANGTANG - 2006 5 - LIST OF TOPICS GIVEN ON THE COURSE AND THE LECTURERS 6 - LIST OF THE STUDENTS ON THE BASIC COURSE 7 - SUMMARY OF TOPICS 8 - PRACTICAL EXAMS

THE FORESEEN TIMETABLE OF THE BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE 2006

14. 08. (1 day) ARRIVAL OF THE INSTRUCTORS TO KATHMANDU 16. - 25.Aug (10.days) THE COURSE IN KATHMANDU: Start of the course, theoretical lectures (5 days): Regulation of formalities, The booklet copying, preparing the timetable, agreement about topics, lecturers (who will teach certain topics) etc. preparation, introduction, slides showing, video tapes, preparation for ascent, dangers in the mountains, ropes and knots, mountaineering expression – terminology, weather, nutrition in mountains; description and evaluation of a climbing ascent, equipment (personal and technical) and checking the equipment of the participant of the course, rock climbing (theoretical); slides showing (Nepal, climbing in Europe, etc.: 1 - 3 evenings). Practical work (4 days): Rock climbing in climbing garden (free and technical climbing; stances; fixing points; anchorages; belaying: around the waist, Italian hitch (half sailor's knot); self-belaying; abseiling: dueller, figure of the eight; tying onto seat-and-chest harness; seat-and-chest harness improvisation) (if the weather will not allow practical climbing, it will be done in Langtang) Equipment checking (1 day): Equipment adjusting, buying, renting. Preparation for departure (1 day): Free for preparation. 26.-29. Aug 06 (4 days): TRAVEL TO THE SITE: Bus and lorry (1day), afoot & theoretical lectures (5 days): High altitude illness, mountain navigation (orientation); camping and bivouacking, environment protection, first aid. 30. Aug to 19. Sep 06 (22 days): COURSE ON THE SITE: Theoretical lectures, practical training on the site (3 days): Movement in rock; movement in Snow; movement in ice; first aid; rescue technique, orientation. Tours, practical work, exams in the mountains (16 days) Rock climbing, (walking; stopping after a slide; free and technical climbing; stances; fixing points; anchorages; belaying: around the waist, Italian hitch; self-belaying; abseiling: dueller, figure of the eight; tying onto seat-and-chest harness; seat-and-chest harness improvisation; self-rescue: prussic knots, Jummars; hoisting and descending operations; pitons in/out; rope balustrades). Snow and ice climbing (walking in snow; stopping after slide; use of ski sticks; use of ice axe for walking, climbing, stopping, belaying; use of crampons; stances and anchorages in snow and ice; belaying in snow and ice; stopping the falling climber in snow; climbing in snow and ice; tying onto the rope for glacier walking; rescue from crevasses; rope balustrades in snow and ice; abseiling on ice bollard). Rescue technique (helicopter, improvisations rescue from avalanche). First aid Exams. Preparations for exams and exams (3 days)

20. - 22. Sep 06 (3 days) TRAVEL TO KATHMANDU: Cleaning the place, travelling on foot, by bus. 23. Sep 06 (2 days) WORK IN KATHMANDU: Completing of the course. Taking care of formalities, report writing, course termination and certificates distribution. 24. Sep 06 DEPARTURE OF Slovenian INSTRUCTORS FROM KATHMANDU. 27. Sep 06 CERTIFICATE DISTRIBUTION CEREMONY, WORLD TOURISM DAY DAILY TIMETABLE IN KATHMANDU: 09.30 Lectures 12.30 lunch break 13.30 Lectures 16.00 Instructors briefing DAILY TIMETABLE ON THE SITE: 06.00 Waking up 10.30 Lectures, training 17.30 Exams, free, training 06.30 Gymnastics 12.30 Lunch 18.45 Dinner 07.00 Breakfast 13.00 Rest, free 19.15 Self-study (instructors briefing) 08.00 Lectures, training 14.00 Lectures, training 21.00 Night rest 10.00 Tea break 17.00 Tea break. The program will be adapted to the actual circumstances!

ALPINE ASSOCIATION OF SLOVENIA - NEPAL MOUNTAINEERING ASSOCIATION THE TENTATIVE PROGRAM OF THE BASIC MOUNTAINEERING

COURSE - 2006

The program will be adapted to the actual circumstances! 02. 08 - Last date of application submission. 04. 08 and 06. 08 - Selection of Trainees. 08. 08 - Result of Selected Trainees of BMT 06. 09. 08 - Payment of Registration fee & Insurance 12. 08 - Last date for payment & Insurance 13. 08 - Arrival of Slovenian instructors 14. 08 - Last date for Alternative Candidates 15. 08 - Central Annual General Meeting of NMA 16. 08 09.30-10.30 Inaugurations of the course, introduction speeches, introductions of the

instructors, greetings, introductions of the students. 10.45-11.45 Introduction and overview about topics, topics: preparation for an

ascent 11.50-13.00 Mountaineering terminology 14.00-15.00 Dangers in the mountains 15.10-16.00 Environment protection 16.10-16.45 Discussion, instructions for the course 17. 08 09.30-10.30 High altitude illness / Altitude awareness 10.45-11.15 Ropes and knots- DVD 11.30-12.00 Ropes and knots - Practical 13.00-14.00 Ropes and knots 14.00-14.30 Avalanches - DVD 14.30-16.00 Rope and Knots- Practical 18. 08 09.30-10.30 First aid 10.45-11.30 Dangers in mountains 11.45-12.30 Environment protection 13.30-14.00 Equipment Care 14.15-15.15 Equipment and personal equipment checking 15.15-15.45 Knots 15.15-15.45 Overview of day activities

19. 08

09.00-10.00 Transport to Balaju

10:00-15:45 Rock climbing: walking, rope & knot, stopping after a slide, using sticks for walking, free and technical climbing, stances, fixing points, anchorages, belaying around the waist, belaying by half sailor's knot, self-belaying, abseiling by figure of eight device, tying onto sit and chest harness, sit and chest harness improvisation, self rescue: prussic, Jummars, hoisting and descending operations, rope balustrade, climbing as roped party.

15.45-16.00 Overviews of day activities.

16.00-17.00 Back to NMA.

20. 08

09.00-10.00 Transport to Balaju

10:00-15:45 Rock climbing: walking, stopping after a slide, using sticks for walking, free and technical climbing, stances, fixing points, anchorages, belaying around the waist, belaying by half sailor's knot, self-belaying, abseiling by figure of eight device, tying onto sit and chest harness, sit and chest harness improvisation, self rescue: prussic, Jummars, hoisting and descending operations, rope balustrade, climbing as roped party.

15.45-16.00 Overview of day activities.

16.00-17.00 Transport to Kathmandu.

21. 08 09.30-10.30 First aid 10.45-11.30 Nutrition in mountains 11.45-12.30 Weather in mountains 13.30-14.30 Camping and bivouacking (DVD and lecture) 14.45-15.45 Slides 15.45-16.00 Overviews of day activities.

22. 08 09.30-10.30 First aid 10.45-11.30 Description and evaluation of a climbing ascent 12.45-12.30 Tiredness 13.30-15.00 Mountain navigation 15.00-15.45 Discussion about the course 15.45-16.00 Overviews of day activities.

23. 08

09.00-10.00 Transport to Balaju

10:00-15:46 Rock climbing: walking, stopping after a slide, using sticks for walking, free and technical climbing, stances, fixing points, anchorages, belaying around the waist, belaying by half sailor's knot, self-belaying, abseiling by figure of eight device, tying onto sit and chest harness, sit and chest harness improvisation, self rescue: prussic, Jummars, hoisting and descending operations, rope balustrade, climbing as roped party.

15.45-16.00 Overview of day activities.

16.00-17.00 Back to NMA

24. 08 09.00-5:00 Equipment Check- up of all trainees

25. 08 Free day & Preparation for Departure 26. 08 Depart to Syabru Bensi by bus. 27. 08 Walking to Lama Hotel. Afternoon: lecture recap 28. 08 Walking to Langtang. Afternoon: lecture recap, navigation. 29. 08 Kyanjing Gompa. Afternoon: free. 30.-31. 08 Rock climbing: rope& knots, walking, stopping after a slide, using sticks

for walking, free and technical climbing, stances, fixing points, anchorages, belaying around the waist, belaying by half sailor's knot, self-belaying, abseiling by figure of eight device, tying onto sit and chest harness, sit and chest harness improvisation, self rescue: prussic, Jummars, hoisting and descending operations, rope balustrade, climbing as roped party

18.15-18.30 Overview of day activities. 01. 09 08.00-17.00 Cliff Rescue & Rock climbing: pitons in, out, recap 17.30-18.15 Discussion about the course. 18.15-18.30 Overviews of day activities 02. 09 08.00-10.00 First aid. 10.30-12.30 Rescue: improvised stretchers, emergency seat, coiled rope seat,

helicopter. 14.00-17.00 Preparation for the ascent to the ABC.

03. 09 08:00-16:45 River crossing and First Aid Class 04. 09 08.00-16.45 About Oxygen & PAC 16.45-17.00 Overviews of day activities. 05. 09 Departure to High camp And radio class on the way ,Set-up camp 06. 09 Preparation equipment for climbing, Navigation, cleaning camp site. 07.-11. 09 08.00-16.45 Snow and ice climbing: walking in snow, stopping after slide, use of ski

sticks, use of ice axe for walking, climbing, stopping, belaying, use of crampons, stances, anchorages in snow and ice, belaying in snow and ice, stopping the falling climber in snow, climbing in snow and ice, tying onto the rope for glacier walking, rescue from crevasse, rope balustrade in snow and ice, abseiling on ice bollard.

16.45-17.00 Overviews of day activities. 12. 09 Ascent to the rock peak, Natural Anchor & same Sub. Exam 13. 09 08.00-15.45 Snow and ice climbing: walking in snow, stopping after slide, use of ski

sticks, use Ice axe for walking, climbing, stopping, belaying, use of crampons, stances, anchorages in snow and ice, belaying in snow and ice, stopping the falling climber in snow, climbing in snow and ice, tying onto the rope for glacier walking, rescue from crevasse, rope balustrade in snow and ice, abseiling on ice bollard.

15.45-16.45 Discussion about the course. 16.45-17.00 Overviews of day activities. 14. 09 08.00-15.45 Snow and ice climbing: walking in snow, stopping after slide, use

of ski sticks, use Ice axe for walking, climbing, stopping, belaying, use of crampons, stances, anchorages in snow and ice, belaying in snow and ice, stopping the falling climber in snow, climbing in snow and ice, tying onto the rope for glacier walking, rescue from crevasse, rope balustrade in snow and ice, abseiling on ice bollard.

15.45-16.45 Discussion about the course. 16.45-17.00 Overviews of day activities. 15. 09 Preparation for the ascent.

Doctor class (First Aid) Victim Search from walking stick and using pp Set

16. 09 08.00-12.30 Exam. 14.00-17.00 Preparation for the ascent 17. 09 Exam Day 18. 09 Back to Kyanjing Gompa 19. 09 Theoretical & practical Exam 20. 09 Departure to Lama hotel. 21. 09 Departure to Shaybru Besi 22. 09 Drive Back to Kathmandu 23. 09 Training Report Preparation for NMA 27. 09 Certificate Distribution Ceremony, World Tourism Day

CONTENTS of Basic Mountaineering Course 2006, Langtang. 01. PREPARATION FOR ASCENT Pasang Sherpa 02. DANGERS IN MOUNTAINS Shree Maharjan 03. AVALANCHES Prem Bahadur Gurung, Matjaž Šerkezi 04. WEATHER Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa, Matjaž Šerkezi 05. EQUIPMENT (PERSONAL AND TECHNICAL) Pasang Sherpa 06. CAMPING AND BIVOUACKING Shree Maharjan 07. ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION Rafael Kolbl 08. MOUNTAINEERING TERMINOLOGY Prem Bahadur Gurung, Matjaž Šerkezi 09. DESCRIPTION & EVALUATION OF A CLIMBING ASCENT Pasang Sherpa 10. MOUNTAIN NAVIGATION (ORIENTATION) Matjaž Šerkezi 11. FIRST AID Rok Maček 12. HIGH ALTITUDE ILLNESS Rok Maček 13. TIREDNESS Rok Maček, Pasang sherpa 14. NUTRITION IN MOUNTAINS Shree Maharjan 15. ROPES AND KNOTS Rafael Kolbl 16. ROCK CLIMBING Prem Bahadur Gurung,

Shree Maharjan 17. SNOW AND ICE CLIMBING Matjaž Šerkezi, Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa 18. RESCUE TECHNIQUE Franc Oderlap Matjaž Šerkezi Da Gombu Sherpa (Leader of the course) (Convenor of ETC of NMA) Instructor Da Gombu Sherpa Pasang Sherpa Ngawang Nima Sherpa ShreeMaharjan (Chief Instructor and Co-Convenor) Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa Prem Bahadur Gurung Mulal Gurung Franc Oderlap Rafael Kolbl Rok Macek - Dr. Med. (Equipment Incharge) Tul Singh Gurung Kathmandu, 15th August 2006 Prepared by: PZS and Expedition and Training Committee 2006. (NMA)

THE SUMMARY OF THE 5TH BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE LANGTANG - 2006

The detached lectures one instructor gave for all students, but all the other or some of the other instructors were present on these lectures and completed the lectures if necessary. Each lecture was completely or partially translated in Nepali language. Practical work was done in groups on workshops. An instructor had one group (6 to 7 students) or all students on one workshop. In that case the group on a workshop differs in number of its members. The instructors mostly made the preparation for every lecture and practice together in advance, common one day before the lecture or practice.

KATHMANDU 16.08.

10.00-10.30 Inauguration of the course, introduction speeches, introductions of the instructors, greetings, introductions of the students (all).

10.30-11.50 Introduction and overview about topics, exam, course (all). 11.55-13.00 Mountaineering terminology (Prem Bahadur Gurung). 14.00-15.00 Dangers in the mountains (Shree Maharjan). 15.00-16.00 Environment protection (Rafael Kolb).

16.00-16.30 Discussion, instructions for the course (all). 17.08.

09.30-10.30 First Aid: introduction (Rok Maček). 10.45-11.15 Ropes and knots - DVD (Matjaž Šerkezi). 11.30-12.00 Ropes and knots – practical (Rafael Kolbl, all). 13.00-14.00 Ropes and knots - practical (Rafael Kolb, all). 14.00-14.30 Avalanches – DVD (Matjaž Šerkezi). 14.30-15.30 Avalanches (Matjaž Šerkezi). 15.45-16.15 Overview of day activity. 18.08

09.30-10.30 First Aid: CPR, bleedings, fractures, immobilization (Rok Maček). 10.45-11.30 Dangers in the mountains (DVD + Shree Maharjan). 11.45-12.30 Knots (all). 13.30-15.00 Equipment and personal equipment (Pasang Sherpa). 15.10-15.50 Equipment care (Pasang Sherpa). 15.50-16.10 Overview of day activity. 19.08.

09.30-11.40 First aid: Hypothermia, frostbites, snow blindness (Rok Maček). 11.50-12.00 Nutrition in mountains (Shree Maharjan). 12.00-12.30 Weather (Matjaž Šerkezi, Lhakpa N. Sherpa). 13.30-14.25 Weather (Matjaž Šerkezi, Lhakpa N. Sherpa).

14.30-15.15 Camping and bivouacking (DVD + Shree Maharjan). 15.20-16.00 Knots (Rafael Kolbl). 16.05-16.35 Overview of day activity.

20.08. 08.30-09.20 Rope coiling (Prem Bahadur Gurung). 09.30-10.20 Knots - practical (Rafael Kolbl, all). 10.30-11.20 Sit and chest harness improvisation (Pasang Sherpa). 12.20-13.10 Tying onto sit and chest harness, racking (Shree Maharjan). 13.20-14.20 Free work (all). 14.30-15.00 Overview of day activity. 21.08

08.15-09.40 First Aid: HAPE, HACE, AMS (Rok Maček). 09.50-11.00 Description and evaluation of a climbing ascent (Pasang Sherpa). 11.10-12.00 Tiredness (Rok Maček, Pasang Sherpa) 13.30-14.45 Mountain navigation (Matjaž Šerkezi, Franc Oderlap) 14.50-15.20 Overview of day activity

22.08.

08.00-17.15 Rock climbing practice: Travelling to Balaju. Practice: rope balustrade, horizontal rope balustrade (Pasang Sherpa), descending by figure of eight device (Matjaž Šerkezi, Franc Oderlap), walking, using sticks for walking, stopping after slide (Lhakpa N. Sherpa), belaying around the waist (Prem B. Gurung), anchorages, stances, fixing points (Rafael Kolbl, Mulal Gurung), self-belaying, belaying by half sailors knot, runners, climbed as a roped party (Shree Maharjan, Rok Maček). Overview of day activity. Travelling to Kathmandu.

23.08.

08.00-18.00 Rock climbing practice: Travelling to Karkani. Practice: jummars (Matjaž Šerkezi, Lhakpa N. Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa), free and technical climbing, belaying (Shree Maharjan, Prem B. Gurung, Franc Oderlap, Rok Maček). Overview of day activity. Travelling to Kathmandu.

24.08.

10.00-17.00 Equipment checking (Ngawang N. Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Shree Maharjan, Prem B. Gurung). Preparation of common gear and equipment.

25.08. Full day. Preparation for travel and course in Langtang (all).

26.08.

08.00-19.00 Travelling by bus to Kalikasthan and by walk to Dunche. 27.08. 09.00-12.00 Travelling by walk from Dunche to Syabru Bensi. 12.00-15.00 Free. 15.00-17.00 Navigation – practical (all).

18.00-19.30 Introduction (all). 28.08.

08.00-16.30 Walking to Lama Hotel. 17.00-18.00 Navigation - repetition (all). 18.00-19.00 Overview of the day activities.

29.08. 08.00-14.30 Walking to Lantang village. 17.00-19.00 Navigation, knots – repetition (all). 19.00-19.30 Overview of day activities.

30.08.

09.00-12.00 Walking to Kyanjing Gompa. 12.00-18.00 Free for cleaning and washing. 19.00-20.00 Overview of day activities.

31.08

08.00-09.00 Doctor class: wounds, bleedings, fractures, CPR, positions (Rok Maček). 09.00-12.00 First Aid: practical in groups - wounds, bleedings, fractures, CPR, positions (Rok Maček, Franc Oderlap, Shree Maharjan, Pasang Sherpa). 14.00-17.00 First Aid: practical in groups - wounds, bleedings, fractures, CPR, positions (Rok Maček, Franc Oderlap, Shree Maharjan, Pasang Sherpa).

17.30-18.00 Overview of day activities. 01.09.

08.00-09.00 Rescue signals for working with helicopter (Rafael Kolbl). 09.10-12.10 Rescue: Improvised stretchers (Shree Maharjan, Prem B. Gurung, Pasang Sherpa, Mulal Gurung). 14.00-15.00 Rescue: Transport means (Lhakpa N. Sherpa, Matjaž Šerkezi).

15.30-17.00 Exams. 17.30-18.00 Overview of day activities. 02.09. (Helicopter brings equipment)

08.00-09.00 Preparation for ascent (Pasang Sherpa). 09.10-12.00 Exams. 14.00-18.00 Practical work: self rescue by Prussik knot, descending by figure of eight device (Rafael Kolbl, Shree Maharjan, Prem B. Gurung), descending with Dülfer (Franc Oderlap, Rok Maček), Pitons in and out (Lhakpa N. Sherpa, Ngawang N. Sherpa), free and technical climbing, belaying (Pasang Sherpa, Mulal Gurung). 19.30-20.00 Overview of day activities.

03.09.

08.00-12.00 Practical work: self rescue by Prussik knot, descending by figure of eight device (Rafael Kolbl, Shree Maharjan, Prem B. Gurung), descending with Dülfer (Franc Oderlap, Rok Maček), Pitons in and out (Lhakpa N. Sherpa, Ngawang N. Sherpa), free and technical climbing, belaying (Pasang Sherpa, Mulal Gurung). Da Gombu Sherpa in Dawa Sherpa went to cheque the place for base camp. 14.00-18.00 Hoisting operations - simple pulley (Šerkezi, all). 19.30-20.00 Overview of day activities.

04.09. 08.00-12.00 Exams (all). 14.00-16.00 Exams (all). 16.00-19.00 Free for preparation for the ascent. 19.30-20.00 Overview of day activities.

05.09. 08.00-16.00 Ascent to high altitude camp.

16.00-19.00 Camp pitching up. 19.30-20.00 Overview of day activities. 06.09.

08.00-11.00 Preparing for the ceremony and camp blessing. 11.00-11.30 Camp blessing. 12.30-12.45 Briefing. 15.00-18.00 Preparing and checking the equipment for ice climbing (all).

07.09. Some of the trainees still did not get equipment.

09.00-10.00 Use of oxygen (Rok Maček, Pasang Sherpa). 10.10-12.00 Use of High altitude pressure bag (Rok Maček, Pasang Sherpa). 14.00-16.00 Exams (all). 17.00-18.30 Walking with plastic boots (Shree Maharjan, Prem B. Gurung, Mulal Gurung, Pasang Sherpa).

19.30-20.00 Overview of day activities. 08.09.

08.00-11.40 Use of ice axe, crampons, walking in ice, stopping after slide without and with ice axe (Šerkezi, all). 12.15-15.30 Anchorage in ice on two ice-screws, ice climbing as roped party (Šerkezi, all).

19.30-20.00 Overview of day activities. 09.09.

08.00-12.30 Rope balustrade (fixed rope), use of the rope balustrade (Rafael Kolbl, N. Nima Sherpa, Mulal Gurung, Pasang Sherpa) – group 1 – 19. Abseiling on ice bollard and Abalakov anchorage (Lhakpa N. Sherpa, Franc Oderlap, Shree Maharjan, Prem B. Gurung) – group 20 - 37.

16.00-17.10 UKV radio station (Shree Maharjan, Prem B. Gurung, Pasang Sherpa). 19.00-19.45 Overview of day activities. 10.09.

08.00-12.30 Rope balustrade (fixed rope), use of the rope balustrade (Rafael Kolbl, N. Nima Sherpa, Mulal Gurung, Pasang Sherpa) – group 20 – 37. Abseiling on ice bollard and Abalakov anchorage (Lhakpa N. Sherpa, Franc Oderlap, Shree Maharjan, Prem B. Gurung) – group 1 - 19. 15.00-16.15 Exams.

11.09. 09.00-14.00 Exams (all). 14.00-21.00 Free.

12.09. 08.00-14.30 Glacier crossing, rescue from crevasses (Šerkezi, all). 19.00-19.45 Overview of day activities.

13.09. 08.00-14.00 Glacier crossing, rescue from crevasses (all except Šerkezi). 16.00-17.00 Use of oxygen (Rok Maček, Pasang Sherpa). 19.00-19.45 Overview of day activities. 14.09. 08.00-08.15 Group photo.

08.30-14.00 Use of rescue beacon and probing (Rafael Kolbl, Prem B. Gurung, Shree Maharjan), anchorage in snow: ice axe, dead men, snow bars (Matjaž Šerkezi, Pasang Sherpa, Mulal Gurung).

16.00-17.00 Exams (all). 19.00-19.45 Overview of day activities. 15.09. 08.30-13.00 Exams (all). Afternoon free for preparation for descent. 16.09.

08.30-16.00 Descent to Kyanjing Gompa. 17.09. 08.00-11.00 Top rope climbing (Shree Maharjan, Lhakpa N. Sherpa, Prem B. Gurung)

Self rescue by Prussik knot, descending by figure of eight device (Ngawang N. Sherpa, Mulal Gurung, Pasang Sherpa).

13.00-15.00 Top rope climbing (Shree Maharjan, Lhakpa N. Sherpa, Prem B. Gurung) Self rescue by Prussik knot, descending by figure of eight device (Ngawang N. Sherpa, Mulal Gurung, Pasang Sherpa).

17.00-18.00 Certificate distribution. 19.00-23.00 Small party at certificate distribution. 18.08.

08.30-15.00 Walking to Syabru Bensi (Da Gombu Sherpa and foreigner instructors). Trainees spend day for recognising with local people and their life.

19.09.

07.00-18.00 Travelling by bus to Kathmandu (Da Gombu Sherpa and foreigner instructors). 09.00-17.00 Walking to Lama hotel (Trainees and other instructors).

20.09.

08.30-15.00 Walking to Syabru Bensi (Trainees and other instructors). 20.-23. 09.

08.00-16.30 Travelling by bus to Kathmandu (Trainees and other instructors). Completing of the course: report-writing, certificate writing, etc. Because there is on 27th of September World Tourism day the solemn distribution of the certificates did not take the place before that date.

24.09.

20.00 Departure of Slovenian instructors.

LIST OF TOPICS GIVEN ON THE COURSE AND THE LECTURERS

01. PREPARATION FOR ASCENT Pasang Sherpa 02. DANGERS IN MOUNTAINS Shree Maharjan 03. AVALANCHES Prem Bahadur Gurung, Matjaž Šerkezi 04. WEATHER Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa, Matjaž Šerkezi 05. EQUIPMENT (PERSONAL AND TECHNICAL) Pasang Sherpa 06. CAMPING AND BIVOUACKING Shree Maharjan 07. ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION Rafael Kolbl 08. MOUNTAINEERING TERMINOLOGY Prem Bahadur Gurung, Matjaž Šerkezi 09. DESCRIPTION & EVALUATION OF A CLIMBING ASCENT Pasang Sherpa 10. MOUNTAIN NAVIGATION (ORIENTATION) Matjaž Šerkezi 11. FIRST AID Rok Maček 12. HIGH ALTITUDE ILLNESS Rok Maček 13. TIREDNESS Rok Maček, Pasang sherpa 14. NUTRITION IN MOUNTAINS Shree Maharjan 15. ROPES AND KNOTS Rafael Kolbl 16. ROCK CLIMBING Prem Bahadur Gurung,

Shree Maharjan 17. SNOW AND ICE CLIMBING Matjaž Šerkezi, Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa 18. RESCUE TECHNIQUE Franc Oderlap, Rafael Kolbl

Prepared by:

Matjaž Šerkezi (Leader of the course)

Kathmandu, 23rd September 2006

LIST OF THE STUDENTS

ON THE 5TH BASIC COURSE IN LANGTANG 2006

01. Ang Dorjee Sherpa 20 Waku – 4, Solukhumbu 02. Ang Gyalzy Sherpa 22 Wakachol – 9, Khotang 03. Anusak Jonyindee 47 Tailand 04. Astaman Tamang 24 Kakani – 6, Nuwakot 05. Bikal Kumar Lama 29 Badhara Mal – 9, Siraha 06. Bikram Singh 25 Gangaparaspur – 6, Dang 07. Binod Lama 22 Bansbari, Kathmandu 08. Birendra Palunwa 28 Dharan – 12, Sunsari 09. Buddha Maya Lama, Ms. 18 Kakani – 6, Nuwakot 10. Da Tenji Sherpa 21 Waku – 9, Solukhumbu 11. Dambar Gurung 24 Laprak – 2, Gorkha 12. Dantha Bahadur Chatyal 24 Humla 13. Dendi Sherpa 23 Taksindi – 5, Solukhumbu 14. Densa Bhote 24 Hatiya – 1, Sankhuwasabha 15. Dinesh Shrestha 20 Melung – 8, Dolkha 16. Furba Tamang 26 Kerung – 1, Solukhumbu 17. Jangbu Sherpa 27 Garma – 8, Solukhumbu 18. Kusang Tenzing Sherpa 21 Lelep – 9, Taplejung 19. Maya Gurung, Ms. 27 Chabahil – 7, Kathmandu 20. Ngada Sherpa 31 Lelep – 9, Taplejung 21. Ngawang Gala Sherpa 27 Chaurikharka – 1, Solukhumbu22. Ngima Chhamji Sherpa, Ms. 23 Churikharka – 3, Solukhumbu 23. Pasang Sherpa 21 Lelep – 8, Taplejung 24. Pem Chhiri Sherpa 27 Chankhu – 6, Dolakha 25. Phuri Sherpa 29 Kerung – 1, Solukhumbo 26. Ratna Man Tamang 26 Lulopasel – 5, Kavre 27. Rudra Kumar Rai 24 Basa – 5 , Solukhumbu 28. Sanjay Kumar Lama 17 Kakani – 6, Nuwakot 29. Shaadia Shaahid, Ms. 29 Pakistan 30. Shyam Kumar Kumal 21 Amaarpur, Gulmi 31. Sonam Dangol 27 Lazimpat – 2, Kathmandu 32. Suman Gurung 23 Laprak – 7, Gorkha 33. Sumek Adhikari 23 Hetauda – 4, Makwanpur 34. Sushil Bahadur B. K. 20 Kalika – 1, Kaski 35. Tsering Wongyal Ghale 28 Manang – 2, Manang 36. Yingyot Choocharn 39 Tailand 37. Yogesh Khadka 26 Dhulabari – 6, Jhapa Matjaž Šerkezi Leader of the course Kathmandu, 23rd September 2006

SUMMARY OF TOPICS

01. PREPARATION FOR ASCENT Basics about actions: preparation, execution, completion; preparation for ascent: physical, psychological, technical. 02. DANGERS IN MOUNTAINS Definition of the danger; fog and clouds, wind and blizzard, thunderstorm, sudden weather changes, avalanches, snow cornice, crevasse, dangers related to equipment (gear), dangers related to movement in the mountains, dangers related to bad preparation, dangers related to food and drink; dangers during climbing: rope, karabiners, knots and tying onto the rope, belaying, pitons, top rope, abseiling, other causes of dangers; what to do if an accident happens. 03. AVALANCHES What is an avalanche, why it happens, type of avalanches, declinations, how to prevent be taken from an avalanche, what to do if an avalanche takes me. 04. WEATHER What is weather; atmosphere; air pressure and wind, radiation of Sun and Earth; warming up of the ground and the air; moisture in atmosphere; clouds and atmospheric precipitations; cyclones and anticyclones; air masses and fronts; the monsoon climate; weather forecast; local weather. 05. EQUIPMENT (PERSONAL AND TECHNICAL) Personal, technical, and other equipment: materials, description, and basic use. 06. CAMPING AND BIVOUACKING Camping: planning; equipment; choosing the place; pitching the camp; kitchen; waste-holes; toilets; water reservoir; camp order; departure; bivouacking: planned and unplanned; what to do when bivouacking; snow bivouacking: 07. ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION - WILDLAND ETHICS Planning ahead and preparing; concentrating impacts in high use areas; spreading use and impact in pristine areas; avoiding places where impact is just beginning; setting it in, packing it out; properly disposing of what cannot be packed out; leaving what we have found; responsible use of fire. 08. MOUNTAINEERING TERMINOLOGY Terms for several mountain parts. 09. DESCRIPTION AND EVALUATION OF A CLIMBING ASCENT Description of an ascent; schema of a climbing route; kinds of ascents; rock routes - UIAA scale for free and technical climbing; evaluation of snow and ice routes; evaluation of an ascent: 10. MOUNTAIN NAVIGATION (ORIENTATION) Kinds of orientation, distance estimation and measuring, determination of the cardinal points of horizon: by compass, by stars; maps: scale; presenting the relief by contour lines, how to set a map; determination of the standing point;. what to do if we get lost; altimeter, technical equipment for orientation; GPS; navigation at guiding and climbing. 11. FIRST AID Positions of the casualty; transport of the injured; life-saving techniques; shock; unconsciousness; syncope; bleeding; wounds; bandaging of different wounds; immobilisation of broken bones; injuries from foot to head; joint injuries; burns; sun blindness; frost bite; hypothermia; use of oxygen. 12. HIGH ALTITUDE ILLNESS Basics about high altitude illness; acclimatisation; who is susceptible; preventive recommendations; acute mountain sicknesses and first aid. 13. TIREDNESS

Basics about tiredness; causes of tiredness; factors accelerating the onset of tiredness; consequences and prevention of tiredness; how do we recognize tiredness; first aid. 14. NUTRITION IN MOUNTAINS Necessity of food and its composition: carbohydrates; fats, proteins, fibre, vitamins, minerals; how to eat: nutrition in the highest mountains; fluid; general rules for hygiene; illness because of eating and drinking; alcohol, drug abuse, smoking tobacco; some rules for eating. 15. ROPES AND KNOTS Basic about ropes; main ropes; auxiliary ropes; maintenance of the ropes; marks on the rope; basics about knots; bowline, thumb knot; sailor’s knot (clove hitch), (figure of) eight knot, double fisherman's knot; prusik knot; ensa (kleimheist) knot; provisional knot; tie knot; garda knot (alpine clutch); half sailor's knot; how much some knots weaken the rope; sit-and-chest harness improvisation.

16. ROCK CLIMBING Walking; stopping after a slide; free and technical climbing; stances; fixing points;

anchorages; belaying: around the waist, half sailor’s knot (Italian hitch); self-belaying; abseiling: duelfer, figure of the eight; tying onto sit-and-chest harness; self-rescue: prusik knots, jummars; hoisting and descending operations; pitons in/out; rope balustrades. 17. SNOW AND ICE CLIMBING

Walking in snow; stopping after slide; use of ski sticks; use of ice axe for walking, climbing, stopping, belaying; use of crampons; stances and anchorages in snow and ice; belaying in snow and ice; stopping the falling climber in snow; climbing in snow and ice; tying onto the rope for glacier walking; rescue from crevasses; rope balustrades in snow and ice; abseiling on ice bollard. 18. RESCUE TECHNIQUE Helicopter, improvisations, rescue from avalanche, rescue action in Himalayas.

PRACTICAL EXAMS The principles of estimating The exam for the participants of the basic mountaineering course is most practical. A participant has to perform only certain activities during the exam. Others are to be done during the course itself. If performed correctly, they count towards the final exam. The instructors will be observing the participant's behaviour, warn about and correct any mistakes till the participant learns how to perform the activities well. The participant must get ALL positive marks to pass.

The knowledge that will be checked during the course

01. PREPARATION FOR ASCENT Psychological preparation: looking, discussing, reading about the ascent. Physical preparation: every day gymnastic - when it is, climbing on boulder. Technical preparation: suitable equipment, food, beverages, General preparation for mountaineering: place choosing, distance, way, drop in height, gear and

equipment, predicting the circumstances. 02. DANGERS IN MOUNTAINS

Recognizing danger in actual situations - at least ten different situations: instructors will ask to recognize dangers at an actual place and during an actual action.

03. AVALANCHES Recognising the dangerous inclination. Recognising actual danger of an avalanche. 04. WEATHER

The participant must know how to forecast the weather on the basis of some basic weather signs and local weather rules.

05. EQUIPMENT

The participant must have the necessary and proper equipment suitable for mountaineering. He must know how to use and to maintain the equipment and also how to select it according to the requirements of the tour or ascent.

06. CAMPING AND BIVOUACKING

Camping: Suitability of the camping equipment. Suitability of the camping place. Evaluation of the pitched tents. Evaluation of cleanliness in the tent and around it. Respecting the camping rules. The instructors grade and take notes about the behaviour

of the participant every day. Bivouacking - practical (at least one night - without tent, in natural shelters).

07. ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION

Behaviour of the participant: in relation to the environment (ground, plants, animals). Disposal of trash, litter. The instructors grade and take notes about the behaviour of the

participant every day. 08. MOUNTAINEERING EXPRESSIONS

During approaching march, walking, climbing, naming the mountains shapes in English, at least ten different expressions.

09. DESCRIPTIONS AND EVALUATION OF A CLIMBING ASCENT

Writing a description of the climbed route after climbing. Making a sketch of this route, after climbing.

10. MOUNTAIN NAVIGATION Orientation of the map. Naming a nearby-unknown object, which is marked on a map. Direction and distance of an invisible object marked on a map.

11. FIRST AID

Knows how to give artificial respiration and artificial circulation (ABC). Has to be able to treat at least two injuries properly. He will get a list of injuries. He must decide

which injury must be treated first and provide treatment. Setting the victim in proper position for transport

12. HIGH ALTITUDE ILLNESS

He can describe how his body behaves on high altitude places. Know what to do if his friend has a strong headache and cannot breath well. This can be done in

an actual practice situation or by verbal description.

13. TIREDNESS He can describe how his own body behaves if tiredness appears. Knows what to do if his friend becomes tired. This can be done in an actual practice situation or

by verbal description. 14. NUTRITION IN MOUNTAINS

During the curse shows his knowledge of how and what to eat and drink. Shows during the curse his personal hygiene habits. The instructors grade and take notes about

the behaviour of the participant every day. 15. ROPES AND KNOTS

Improvisation of the climbing harnesses. Making the bowline, figure of eight knot, prusik knot, ensa (kleimheist) knot, provisionall knot

(one kind), tie knot, garda knot (alpine clutch), half sailor's knot Italian hitch). Tying onto sit-and-chest climbing harness or onto improvisation of the sit-and-chest climbing

harness. 16. ROCK CLIMBING

Walking on various grounds: horizontal, up, down, diagonal. Stopping after a slide. Use of sticks for walking. Free climbing: looking forward, position of the body, rule of the three points, checking the finger

and foot holdings. Technical climbing: the participant knows how to use the technical resources for advancing. Choosing a suitable stance. Putting in at least ten well holding pitons and taking the same pitons out. He makes an anchorage

on one and on more pitons. Using of various natural points to make anchorages, he makes at least one well holding anchorage

in rock. Self-belaying at the belaying place. Belaying around the waist dynamically. Belaying with half sailor's knot (Munter hitch, Italian hitch). Climbing as roped party: activities at belaying place, commands and runners, at least one pitch. Preparation of an anchorage for descending and descending the duelfer way. Descending by figure of the eight device. Self-rescue: ascending on the rope by auxiliary ropes and prusik knot, ascending on the rope by

jummars or T-block. Hoisting the second climber, transition into descending, descending. Making the rope balustrade and walking along it: fixing points, fixation of the rope onto fixing

points, use of self-belaying during moving along the rope balustrade.

16. SNOW AND ICE CLIMBING Walking in various snows: horizontal, up, down, diagonal. Stopping after a slide. Use of ski sticks for walking. Use of ice axe at walking (how to hold it properly), climbing, etc. Stopping by ice axe after a slide. Use of crampons. Walking in various snows: horizontal, up, down, diagonal at various slopes

inclinations. Making at least one stance in snow. Making at least one stance in ice. Making at least one anchorage in snow (ice axe, various objects, snow bollard). Making at least one anchorage in ice (ice screws, ice pitons, ice axes, Abalakov, ice bollard) and

belaying. Belaying and stopping the sliding climber on snow. Climbing as roped party: activities at belaying place, commands, and runners, at least one pitch. Making the ice bollard and abseiling. Making the rope balustrade and walking along it: fixing points, fixation of the rope onto fixing

points, use of self-belaying during moving along the rope balustrade. Tying onto the rope for glacier walking: at least one way (two climbers, three climbers, four

climbers five climbers). Stopping the climber falling into crevasse, rescue operation: anchorage, transition of the load

from body to anchorage, hoisting operations. 18. RESCUE TECHNIQUE

Making one improvised means for transport of injured: improvised stretcher, improvised emergency seat, and coiled rope seat.

Finding a hidden object in an avalanche by probing with improvised equipment. Finding a hidden object in an avalanche by the rescue beacon. Preparing the place for helicopter landing, navigating the helicopter from the ground, the

approaching to the helicopter. Prepared by B. Pollak and M. Šerkezi for the BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE OF NEPAL MOUNTAINEERING ASSOCIATION in year 2002, adapted by B. Pollak and M. Šerkezi for BMCNMA-2006. Confirmed by: Ngawang Nhima Sherpa Da Gombu Sherpa (Chief instructor) (Convenor of TC of NMA) Kathmandu, 24th August 2006

POROČILO O 5. OSNOVNEM PLANINSKEM TEČAJU KATHMANDU – LANGTANG - KATHMANDU:

16. AVGUST – 22. SEPTEMBER 2006

KRONOLOSKI PREGLED: 13. - 14. 08. Potovanje slovenskih inštruktorjev iz Ljubljane do Katmanduja. 16. - 25. 08. Priprava na tečaj in tečaj v Katmanduju. 26. - 29. 08. Potovanje do samostana Kjangdzing in tečaj med potovanjem. 30. 08. - 04. 09. Tečaj pri samostanu Kjangdzing 05. 09. - 16. 09. Pohod do višinskega tabora, tečaj in vrnitev do samostana Kjangdzing. 19. - 22. 09. Potovanje do Katmanduja. 22. - 23. 09. Končevanje zadev v zvezi s tečajem v Katmanduju. 25. 09. Vrnitev v Ljubljano. POROCILO O IZVEDBI TECAJA A INŠTRUKTORJI 1. MATJAŽ ŠERKEZI 1980, Slovenija inštruktor PZS, vodja tečaja 2. DA GOMBU SHERPA 1954, Nepal inštruktor NMA, glavni koordinator 3. NGAWANG NIMA SHERPA 1967, Nepal inštruktor NMA, glavni inštruktor 4. SHREE MAHARJAN 1978, Nepal inštruktor NMA 5. LHAKPA NORBU SHERPA 1951, Nepal inštruktor NMA 6. PREM BAHADUR GURUNG 1979. Nepal inštruktor NMA 7. MULAL GURUNG 1971, Nepal inštruktor NMA 8. ROK MAČEK 1978, Slovenija zdravnik 9. PASANG SHERPA 1975, Nepal inštruktor NMA 10. RAFAEL KOLB 1963, Slovenija inštruktor SV 11. FRANC ODERLAP 1958, Slovenija inštruktor PZS

Vsi nepalski inštruktorji so končali najmanj trimesečni tekaj za inštruktorje v ENSA (Francija) preden so se udeležili osnovnega tečaja kot inštruktorji. B TEČAJNIKI Tečaj je začelo 37 tečajnikov, od tega tri dekleta in trije tujci (Pakistanka in dva Tajca), ki so bili izbrani iz več kot 118 prijavljenih. Vsi so tečaj uspešno zaključili. Povprečna starost je bila 25 let. Imeli so zelo različne planinske izkušnje in tudi zelo različno osnovno znanje: od pristopnikov na vrhove višje od 8000 m, do začetnikov, ki so bili na tečaju prvič v gorah. Trije od njih niso znali brati in pisati. Iz tega razloga je bila medsebojna pomoč nujna. Vsi tečajniki so pokazali veliko zeljo za učenje in za pridobivanje nadaljnjih izkušenj. C TEHNIČNA ORGANIZACIJA - IZVEDBA Tehnično izvedbo tečaja v Katmanduju je imela NMA. Treking agencija ARUN je poskrbela za logistiko tečaja iz Katmanduja do baznega tabora in nazaj do Katmanduja (namestitev in prehrana, transport, tovor in hrana). G. Dawa Sherpa (direktor agencije) je s svojo 10 člansko ekipo skrbel, da je naše delo potekalo nemoteno in ga tudi odlično opravil.

Predstavnik NMA je bil Da Gombu Sherpa. Svoje delo je opravil znova odlično, tako kot predstavnik kot tudi inštruktor. Njegova pomoč med tečajem je bila zelo dragocena in v veliki meri gre ravno njemu zasluga, da je bil tečaj tako uspešen. G. Tul Singh Gurung, ki je bil odgovoren za opremo je svoje delo opravljal solidno.

D IZVEDBA TEČAJA Podroben opis izvedbe tečaja je dan v prilogi “THE SUMMARY OF THE 20TH (5TH) BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE LANGTANG –2006”. E ZAKLJUCKI, PRIPOMBE, POBUDE, PRIPOROCILA

1. Ta osnovni tečaj je bil peti po vrsti v skladu s predlaganimi OSNOVAMI ZA DOSEGANJE NAZIVA VODNIK NMA. Zaradi tega so nepalski in slovenski inštruktorji pripravili skupaj program tečaja. G. Da Gombu Sherpa in g. Matjaz Šerkezi sta posebej bedela nad vsebino tečaja in bosta pripravila določene spremembe za naslednji tečaj.

2. Glavni inštruktor (vodja inštruktorjev) na tečaju je bil g. Ngawang Nima Sherpa. Svoje delo je glede na stvarne razmere opravil zelo dobro.

3. Vodstvo tečaja so sestavljali trije: G. Da Gombu Sherpa kot predstavnik NMA in glavni koordinator, g. Ngawang Nima Sherpa kot glavni inštruktor in g. Matjaz Šerkezi kot vodja tečaja. Pred vsako pomembno odločitvijo je bilo posvetovanje. Vse odločitve so bile sprejete soglasno.

4. Vsi inštruktorji so svoje delo opravili odlično. Ravno tako sta bila sodelovanje in medsebojna pomoč na visoki ravni.

5. Posvetovanja med inštruktorji so bila stalna. Vsak dan pred določeno lekcijo so se med seboj uskladili in dogovorili kaj bodo predavali. Vsak inštruktor si je v naprej pripravil pripravo za predavanje.

6. Vsi inštruktorji so sodelovali na vseh teoretičnih predavanjih in pomagali predavatelju če je bilo potrebno.

7. Kljub letošnjemu slabemu vremenu smo uspešno zaključili z vsemi predavanji po v naprej pripravljenemu programu. Prostor za delo pod prelazom Ganja La je odličen za izvedbo začetnega tečaja, saj ima kratek dostop do ledenika, ki je brez nevarnosti. Prav tako omogoča delo na snegu.

8. V prihodnje naj bodo datumi tečaja določeni v naprej. Predlog je: a. Osnovni tečaj – vsako leto približno od 15. septembra do 15. oktobra. b. Osnovni tečaj za vodnike NMA – vsako drugo leto približno od 1. maja do 10. junija. c. Nadaljevalni in drugi tečaji – po osnovnem tečaju ali pred njim.

9. Čas tečaja v Katmanduju je bil primeren. V Katmanduju so bila opravljena samo teoretična predavanja in del skalne tehnike, vse ostalo smo naredili v gorah. Plezalni vrtec in umetna stena v Karkaniju nista primerna za izvedbo osnovnega tečaja. Umetna stena v Karkaniju je zgrajena neprofesionalno in nevarno. Prav tako ni razloga za plezanje na umetni steni v času tečaja.

10. Za ta tečaj, kot tudi za vse naslednje naj bo podpisana pogodba o pravilih in redu na tečaju med tečajniki in NMA. Priporočljiva je tudi podobna pogodba med inštruktorji in NMA.

11. Izbira tečajnikov ni bila primerna in nekateri izmed njih si niso zasluzili mesta na tečaju. Naslednji izbor tečajnikov mora vključevati tudi test fizične pripravljenosti in ne samo priporočila agencije. Enaka pravila veljajo tudi za tujce.

12. Vsi inštruktorji naj bi imeli srednji komplet prve pomoči in vsi tečajniki malega. Na tem tečaju tečajniki od zdravnika niso dobili kompleta prve pomoči, ker se je zdravnik ekipi inštruktorjev priključil šele zadnji trenutek.

13. Slovenski inštruktorji so pripravili podroben priročnik v treh delih v letu 2002 in NMA ga je kopirala v zadostnem številu. Ta priročnik je uporaben za osnovni tečaj za vodnike NMA (z dodatnimi predmeti), toda preveč obsežen za osnovni tečaj. NMIA je pripravila manjši priročnik za osnovni tečaj, toda v tej knjigi je nekaj stvari, ki niso ustrezne za osnovni tečaj. Iz tega razloga je v pripravi nov učbenik, ki bo vseboval samo teme potrebne za osnovni tečaj in hkrati vključeval cim večje število skic.

14. Izpiti so bili v največji možni meri praktični, vendar je priporočljivo pripraviti za inštruktorje natančnejša navodila za izvedbo izpitov.

15. Kjer dejansko stanje ni dopuščalo izvedbe izpita so se upoštevale stvarne okoliščine.

16. Med tečajem smo uporabljali “Osebni izpitni list” za izvedbo izpitov. Bil je zelo uporaben in je priporočljivo, da se ga uporablja tudi v prihodnje. Prav tako se predlaga, da izpitne liste vseh tečajnikov v času tečaja hrani vodja tečaja in jih izroči glavnemu inštruktorju po koncu tečaja.

17. Nepalski inštruktorji so povsem sposobni zelo dobro izvesti osnovni tečaj sami, vendar je priporočljivo sodelovanje s kakšnimi drugimi (tujimi) inštruktorji (slovenskimi), da se izboljša in izmenja znanje in naredi tečaj bolj učinkovit. Zaradi tega naj se tečaja udeleži eden ali dva inštruktorja in zdravnik, vsi ostali inštruktorji naj bi bili tudi v prihodnje nepalski.

18. Priporočljivo je, da se za inštruktorje pripravijo navodila o predavanjih in vaje iz vseh tem, da bi lahko laze učili.

19. Med tečajem je bila disciplina odlična. 20. Čeprav ni nihče potreboval helikopterskega reševanja, naj bi bilo tako zavarovanje

zagotovljeno za naslednje tečaje. 21. V program naj se doda vsaj en načrtovan družabni večer. 22. Na tem tečaju ni bilo ocenjevanja tečajnikov. Bilo je pomembno samo, da je tečajnik imel

minimalno znanje o določeni stvari. Če nekdo tega ni imel, smo toliko krat ponovili izpit, da je dosegel ta minimum. Predlagano je, da se tak sistem uporablja na vseh tečajih.

23. Pred koncem tečaja so tečajniki izpolnili anketo o tečaju, da bi dobili njihovo oceno tečaja, organizacije itd. Priporoča se, da se za naslednje leto pripravi nov koncept vprašalnika, saj marsikomu povzroča težave neznanje pisanja in branja ter angleški jezik.

24. NMA je odlično skrbela za slovenske inštruktorje med celotnim njihovim bivanjem v Nepalu. 25. V prihodnje je priporočljivo pripraviti kratek obnavljalni tečaj za inštruktorje tik pred osnovnim

tečajem. Dan ali dva se izvede pred tečajem, druga predavanja pa med tečajem. 26. Na kratko: med tečajem je bilo mokro, hladno, megla in trdo delo. Toda odlično sodelovanje

med inštruktorji in tudi med tečajniki. Zaradi tega je bil tečaj uspešen in je dosegel svoj namen: dati udeležencem osnovno znanje in okus o gorah.

27. Udeležba obeh slovenskih inštruktorjev (PZS in SV) se je pokazala kot zelo koristna, saj sta lahko prenesla del svojih bogatih izkušenj in sama pridobila precej novih.

28. Udeležba zdravnika se je pokazala za zelo koristno, tako za same udeležence tečaja, kot tudi za okoliško prebivalstvo.

Matjaž Šerkezi Vodja tečaja

Katmandu, 23rd September 2006 Attachments: 1 - THE FORESEEN TIMETABLE OF THE BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE 2006 2 - THE TENTATIVE PROGRAM OF THE BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE 2006 3 - LIST OF TOPICS 4 - THE SUMMARY OF THE 5TH BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE LANGTANG - 2006 5 - LIST OF TOPICS GIVEN ON THE COURSE AND THE LECTURERS 6 - LIST OF THE STUDENTS ON THE BASIC COURSE 7 - SUMMARY OF TOPICS 8 - PRACTICAL EXAMS

NMA & PZS: BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE 2006

QUESTIONAIRE Dear student,

For the evaluation of the basic mountaineering course

and to make it better in the future, I ask you very kindly to complete and return following questionnaire. Your answers should be as sincere as possible. You do NOT need to sign your name – the questionnaire is anonymous.

If more than one answer is possible, circle the answer(s) which is (are) the closest to your opinion. If there is one question without proposed answers, please write your answer on the dotted line. Matjaž Šerkezi ********************************************************************** 01. Your age: _______ years 02. Your school grade: - No school - Less than primary school - Primary school - Secondary school - University degree - More than university - Others (specify):___________________________________________ 03. Why do you take place in the basic mountaineering course? - To gain new knowledge - I'm interested in mountain climbing and guiding - To fulfil the order of my agency where I'm employed - With the course finished I can get a job more easily - With the course finished I can earn more money - Others (specify):___________________________________________

04. Did you fulfil your expectations? - Yes, completely - Yes, partly - No 05. Have you gained on the course new knowledge for which you think it will be useful for you?

- Yes, a lot - Yes, just a little - No, nothing 06. What did you missed during the course? __________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________________________________________ 07. Which lectures were the most interesting for you and you find the best? __________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 08. Which lectures did you find the worst? __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 09. Which lessons gave you the most useful knowledge and skill? __________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

10. Which practice did you find the best? __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 11. In which lessons there were too many subject matters? __________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 12. In which lessons there were to little subject matters? __________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 13. Which instructors did you find the best and why? ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 14. Which instructors did you find the worst and why? ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 15. Which were the good sides of the course? ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 16. Which were the bad sides of the course? __________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 17. Your other remarks or suggestions about the course, the food, the organisation of the course, instructor's behaviour, the place of the course, the handbooks, etc.:

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 18. Do you want continue your mountaineering education?

- Yes - No

19. Do you will continue your mountaineering practice?

- Yes - No 20. Do you want participate on the basic course for the mountaineering guides of NMA? - Yes - No 21. Do you want discuss the course with the leadership? - No - Yes (if "Yes", write your name: __________________________________, or contact the leadership of the course) (NMA-PZS BASIC MOUNTAINERING COURSE 2005 – QUESTIONAIRE © NMA-PZS & B. Pollak)