1REMEMBER TO BREATHE

REMEMBER TO BREATHETREKKING TO EVEREST BASE CAMP: THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE

REMEMBER TO BREATHETREKKING TO EVEREST BASE CAMP: THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE

REMEMBER TO BREATHEJAY REILLY

Produced by: Frank and Sue Wall / Our Hiking BlogCover image: Monochrome Visions

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If you have ever dreamed of trekking in Nepal and

reaching Everest Base Camp, this guide, created

by a Nepal expert, is the perfect place to start your

research.

It invites you into a world of tea houses, tiny

alleys packed with outdoor gear, wonderful local

food, trekking within a fantastic culture, meeting

fascinating local people and exploring the top of

the world by foot.

Jay Reilly shares many years experience gained by

living in Nepal and guiding various expeditions into

this amazing country. Written in a no-nonsense

style, this guide takes you through every stage of

planning and undertaking a trip to Everest Base

Camp. It is designed for independent walkers and

those considering a guided trip.

This guide includes advice on:

• When to go - the best season and why

• Health - vaccinations, altitude, acclimatisation

• Training for the trip - yes, you do need to be fit

• Gear and equipment - what to bring from home

or what is available there

• Guided vs independent - helps you choose what

is best for you

• Kathmandu survival tips - enough said

• Tips for the trail - independent advice from an

expert

• Costs - setting a budget

• Local contacts - trusted people who have

worked with the author

• Suggested trek schedule - yes, finally you are

on the trail!

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About the Author

Jay Reilly started visiting the Khumbu Valley in

2002 as a commercial mountain climbing guide.

Since then he has led around 20 mountain climbing

and trekking expeditions in the Everest Region. He

has summited Ama Dablam (6856m) five times out

of nine attempts and Pumori (7145m) twice and

actually holds a record for being the only Australian

to do so.

During his guiding exploits, Jay spent most of his

time in the Khumbu Valley and has an intricate

knowledge of its moods, politics and people.

Jay is somewhat of a Nepal expert, having dealt

with storms, injuries and illness, both altitude

and otherwise – as well as now having a good

understanding of the way Nepalese bureaucracy

works.

Apart from being in the Khumbu region, Jay spent

time hanging out in Kathmandu between mountain

climbing expeditions. His knowledge of the city and

his ability to get off the tourist trail make him a

sought after leader and guide. Recently his travels

have centred around facilitating Australian school

students performing community service work in

Nepal.

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This book is about trekking to the base of Mt

Everest.

It will give you all the practical information on how,

when, what, where and who.

The why?

Only you can answer that! Perhaps it’s as simple

as the quote by 1930s mountaineer George Mallory

who, when asked why he wanted to climb Mt

Everest, replied, “Because it’s there.” Maybe you

want to visit places you have read about, made

famous in various adventure books about climbing

Mt Everest.

Or, perhaps you want to simply go and be in awe of

the mightiest mountain range on earth.

Whatever your reason, go, enjoy, fall in love with

Nepal’s people and culture and the truly magnificent

spectacle that is Sargarmartha, Mother Goddess of

the Earth - Mt Everest.

Climbing expedition shot from 6300m on Ama Dablam

TABLE OF CONTENTS5REMEMBER TO BREATHE

Chapter 11Track Notes 39

Chapter 12For The Even MoreAdventurous 68

Chapter 13Contacts 70

Region Map 72

A Bit About Nepal 76

Table of Contents

Chapter 1Introduction 6

Chapter 2Questions You May be Asking 7

Chapter 3When to Go 11

Chapter 4Health 13

Chapter 5Training for the Trip 20

Chapter 6Equipment 22

Chapter 7Commercial vs.Independent 24

Chapter 8KathmanduSurvival Tips 28

Chapter 9Tips for the Trail 32

Chapter 10Costs 38

INTRODUCTION6REMEMBER TO BREATHE

Welcome to one of the world’s finest journeys,

rich in culture, history and spiritualty; the

trek to Everest Base Camp.

Nepal has a fascinating political history, ruled by

Kings who were not strangers to infiltration and

betrayal by family. Lies, theft, corruption, unethical

rises to power, it reads better than a daytime soap

script!

Is it safe to travel to Nepal?

Very. Despite the unstable political situation,

Kathmandu is, in my opinion, quite safe. Part of

my time spent there was during the intense period

of outright guerrilla warfare between the government

and Maoist Rebels that raged from 2002 to 2006,

and even at that time I never felt threatened or in

danger.

The Nepalese government certainly has its own

internal struggle, but this struggle has never

overflowed onto visiting foreigners. The Nepalese are

genuine, hard-working and friendly people. They are

also smart. They know that much of the country’s

revenue comes from tourism, so they would never

intentionally let that industry be damaged in any

way. Having said that, you do need to exercise a

level of caution no matter where you travel. Be

smart, use common sense, and put simple personal

security measures in place – i.e. lock your doors, do

not leave valuables lying about, and do not display

large amounts of cash.

Check your government travel

advice website while planning

your trip. They will have the

most up to date information.

“Himalaya” - Sherpa word meaning “abode of

snow”.

Chapter 1Introduction

Buddha statue at Swayambunath

QUESTIONS YOU MAY BE ASKING7REMEMBER TO BREATHE

Where is it?

Mt Everest is located on the border of Nepal and

Tibet. The trek to base camp follows the Khumbu

Valley in Nepal.

How do I get there?

You need to travel to Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital

city. This is where you need to make your trek

preparations. Stay a while and experience the

wonderment that is Kathmandu!

Where do I stay?

In Kathmandu, the main tourist district is called

Thamel. This is where most travellers base

themselves when exploring Kathmandu. Thamel

is an area of about five city blocks and contains

trekking stores, restaurants, supermarkets,

pharmacies, bars, clothing, jewellery and carpet

shops. There are more hotels and guesthouses than

you would think possible!

See Chapter 11 for some recommendations and a

map. For information on teahouses whilst on the

trek see Chapter 9.

What is the currency of Nepal and where can I get it?

The national currency is the Nepali rupee (NRP).

The average exchange rate hovers between 60-70

NRP for one US Dollar. Major western currencies

are readily exchanged in Nepal. The Rupee

denominations are 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500,

and 1000 notes.

There are many currency exchange booths in and

around Thamel. Compare the different rates before

you exchange money, as they can vary. It is possible

to barter for a better rate if you are exchanging large

sums. There are also a number of ATMs scattered

around Thamel that accept foreign cards and will

dispense NRP.

Chapter 2

Questions You May be Asking

Money changer in Kathmandu

Prayer flags over Kathmandu

QUESTIONS YOU MAY BE ASKING8REMEMBER TO BREATHE

How do I get to Mt Everest from Kathmandu?

You can walk the entire way, but it is very long.

These days, 99% of trekkers and climbers fly from

Kathmandu to the mountain village of Lukla. Taking

this flight cuts off a 10-day walk, and an unpleasant

8-hour bus or car ride.

How do I get this flight?

There are many trekking agencies in Thamel with

offices on every street. They can book flights for you.

Flights to Lukla cost around USD$140 each way,

take about 45 minutes in small, 15-20 seat planes.

Currently there is only one airline that flies to Lukla

and offers only 3 flights per day. Now – imagine

6000 trekkers, plus guides, 1000 climbers, plus

staff and equipment all trying to get to Lukla on the

same day… Chaos?? Yep. Absolute and an impossible

task. It stands to reason that if you attempt a trek

in the middle of the peak season, all the flights may

be full. Perhaps a shoulder season trek?

Alternatively, you can charter a private helicopter

that will fit you and 7 of your friends. This will cost

about $3000 each way. Boarding the flight to Lukla

QUESTIONS YOU MAY BE ASKING9REMEMBER TO BREATHE

How far is it to Everest Base Camp?

It is approximately a 140-kilometre round trip from

Lukla. This excludes any side trips. Distances are

not measured in Nepal, but time is. You will see

signs or hear people tell you that destination X is

Y number of hours away.

How long should I plan to be on the trek?

At a bare minimum, you could trek to Everest Base

Camp and back again in 14 days (see the Trek

Schedule in Chapter 12). However, this leaves no

time for relaxing, sightseeing, side trips or, more

importantly, allowing time for good acclimatisation.

A preferred time to allow is 19-21 days.

How high will I go?

Everest Base Camp is at an altitude of 5400m. At

this height above sea level the oxygen concentration

in the air is quite reduced. Many people find it a

challenge to get enough oxygen into their blood

stream while trekking and living in the “thin air”.

There are extensive notes in Chapter 4 - Health

that will guide you through the process of

acclimatisation.

If you decide on a side trip to Kala Pattar, a popular

viewing point near Everest Base Camp, this will take

you to 5600m or thereabouts. Some call Kala Pattar

a mountain, but it is actually just a high point on

Mt Pumori’s south ridge.

See Chapter 12 in the Trek Schedule for more

information on possible side trips.

What if I’m scared of heights?

There are a few places on the route where the trail

drops off steeply to one side, but the trail is plenty

wide and perfectly safe.

Will I fall off?

No. There is nothing to fall off. Just because you are

at high altitude does not mean you are suspended

in the sky. You are on solid, stable trail the entire

way.

Do I need to be fit?

Yes. Being at high altitude puts enormous strain

on your body, particularly your respiratory and

circulatory systems. Trekking at high altitude

requires a greater level of fitness than trekking at

sea level. A training regime is recommended before

you go. See Chapter 5 for some training advice.

Do I need a guide?

Yes. Recent changes to the trekking permit system in

Nepal means that you must obtain a TIMS (Trekkers

Information Management System) Card before you

can trek in any area of Nepal. This system is now

in place to attempt to stop trekkers getting lost/

going missing as had happened in the past. Now,

a series of checkpoints are in place in the Khumbu

Valley– some ridiculously close to the previous – in

order to record your details and whereabouts.

The TIMS Card can only be issued by a trekking

agency that is registered with TAAN (Trekking Agents

Association Nepal)

Porters

QUESTIONS YOU MAY BE ASKING10REMEMBER TO BREATHE

Along with the TIMS Card, you are required to take a

Nepalese “guide” with you. The cost of this should

be about 1200 NRP per day for the guide. This

includes his food. Be sure to negotiate this before

you pay any money.

Is the trek safe?

Absolutely! Of course there are dangers, mostly

stemming from altitude related problems. Otherwise

the Khumbu Valley is a very safe place to be. There

is little to no crime, no angst and definitely no

dislike for foreigners. The Nepalese are some of the

most welcoming, friendly and trustworthy people

in the world. However, do practise simple personal

security measures in regard to cash, valuables and

personal items. Typical shop front complete with Zopkyo

Is it hard?

Technically no – the trail is very big and very

obvious, so navigation is not an issue, nor is the

terrain. Apart from some hills and steps, there are

no rock scrambles or points where you would need

to think twice. Physically yes – the rigours of simply

being at high altitude are tough on your body, so

walking up steep hills whilst at altitude is going to

put you under some strain.

Get fit before you go (see Chapter 5).

Trail to Namche

Important note: Expect the guide to know the

route only. DO NOT rely on them for help in an

emergency situation. They probably are NOT

trained in first-aid. Learn about altitude illness

and its signs, symptoms and treatment. Take your

own supply of medication and learn when, what,

how and why to take it if you need.

Where do I get food and water on the trek?

There are numerous small streams and water points

all along the trail. This water is clear and clean, but

does need to be purified or treated in some manner

before drinking. There are also many teahouses that

sell food, snacks, bottled water and other drinks.

See Chapter 9 for more information about teahouses.