REIS NICHOLS

ACCENT ! THE MAGAZ INE OF L IFE ’ S CELEBRAT IONS ! SPR ING/SUMMER 20 12

CELEBRATESPRING!

Fashion FavoritesWatchmaking:

The NextGeneration

Last Bid for Love

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Contents spring/summer 2012

FOR

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INDIANAPOLIS

FASHION MALL COMMONS

(317) 255-4467

GREENWOOD

GREENDALE CENTRE

(317) 883-4467

WWW.REISNICHOLS.COM

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P

P U B L I S H E R

STU NIFOUSSI

E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F

KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R

HANS GSCHLIESSER

M A N A G I N G E D I T O R

JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

P R O J E C T M A N A G E R

LISA MONTEMORRA

D E S I G N E R S

CYNTHIA LUCERO

JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

P R O D U C T I O N M A N A G E R

PEG EADIE

P R E S I D E N T A N D C E O

BRITTON JONES

C H A I R M A N A N D C O O

MAC BRIGHTON

Jewelry has been enlarged to show detail. Due to the fluctuating prices

of diamonds, gold and platinum, prices are subject to change. While we

have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this

magazine, we are not responsible for errors or omissions.

Copyright 2012. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc,

P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-

852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY

10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved.

The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims,

unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No

part of this magazine may be reproduced without written per-

mission of the publishers. Volume 10, Issue 1. Accent® is a trade-

mark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and

Trademark office. Printed In U.S.A.

FEATURES4 Events

6 Profile: John Hardy

8 From the Runways

16 Vintage Collections

18 Hot Watches for Her

21 Brides So Beautiful

24 Profile: Forevermark

26 Accent Advisor

28 Red Carpet

32 Food: Making Magic

36 Community

38 Black & White

40 Watch Complications: Passing Time

43 Hot Watches for Him

44 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch Technicum

46 Profile: Michele Watches

48 Essay: Last Bid for Love

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SEE & BE SEEN

REIS-NICHOLS JEWELERS CONTINUES ITS LONGSTANDING TRADITION OF HOST-ING FUN EVENTS TO ENTERTAIN CLIENTS AND BENEFIT CHARITABLE CAUSES.

4

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SEE & BE SEEN

REIS-NICHOLS JEWELERS CONTINUES ITS LONGSTANDING TRADITION OF HOST-ING FUN EVENTS TO ENTERTAIN CLIENTS AND BENEFIT CHARITABLE CAUSES.

5


PROFILE

SCALINGBACK

First introduced in 2009, on the anniversary of John Hardy’s 20th yearin business, the Naga collection tells the Balinese myth of the dragonand the pearl. As legend has it, the dragon would leave his volcano

each night and dive down to the bottom of the sea to visit his love, the pearl.At sunrise, as he burst from the water and returned home to the volcano, thewater dripping from his scales fertilized rice fields across the land andbrought prosperity to the Balinese.

Now, for the Chinese Year of the Dragon, John Hardy head designer andcreative director Guy Bedarida has dramatically expanded the 2012 Nagacollection with more pieces featuring this mythical symbol of good fortune,prosperity and success.

Like the dragon in the myth, one of John Hardy’s missions is to helpthe Balinese land and people flourish. The company views itself as acollaborative effort between designers and artisans, and believes that “abusiness can prosper while respecting people and nature.” Their “GreenerEveryday” policy signifies an ongoing commitment to environmentalconservation, which includes the planting of bamboo, rice and even theblack palm wood used in some of its men’s designs. The brand’s HongKong headquarters are completely green, and its Mambal, Bali compoundis a village unto itself, composed of traditional bamboo and mudstructures, rice paddies and an organic farm that provides lunch for theentire workforce there.

The Naga collection, like all John Hardy collections, is handcrafted in Baliby these talented native artisans, some of whom have previously served asjewelers to Balinese kings. Some pieces feature full dragons or dragonheads, while others showcase a more abstract dragon scale motif. Craftedfrom sterling silver, yellow gold and an assortment of precious and semi-precious gems, the collection’s cuffs, bracelets, rings, necklaces and earringsare rich with detail, inside and out.

JOHN HARDY REVISITS ITS NAGACOLLECTION WITH FIERY NEWDESIGNS TO USHER IN THE YEAR OFTHE DRAGON. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

6

“I LIKE TO THINK THAT THE WEARERS OF THE NAGACOLLECTION WILL ENJOY LOVE, PROSPERITY AND LUCK.”

–GUY BEDARIDA, HEAD DESIGNER

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FROM THE RUNWAYS

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BoldBE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Marco Bicego 36” Siviglia necklace $3,920Ippolita hammered chain necklace $6,995Marco Bicego Africa earrings $2,070Roberto Coin chandelier earrings $1,500Marco Bicego Jaipur bracelet $4,660John Hardy Palu cuff bracelet $2,595

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RAINBOWBright


ColorWEAR

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Citrine ring $4,425Carelle amethyst necklace $2,590Stephen Webster black opal earrings $6,700Mexican turquoise bead bracelet $75Michele Deco chronograph watch $1,625


DarkAND DANGEROUS


NightCLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

Black rhodium diamond hoop earrings $1,935Penny Preville 36” diamond necklace $8,045

matching earrings $5,975David Yurman 9-row Midnight bracelet $1,200

David Yurman Midnight Melange earrings $2,950Chanel J12 ceramic and diamond watch $14,550Stephen Webster Super Stud cuff bracelet $895

DAY &


SilverSEDUCED BY

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: John Hardy Palu necklace $595John Hardy Kali earrings $295Ippolita Glamazon chain necklace $1,295David Yurman Cable link bracelet $950Stephen Webster Rapture earrings $425David Yurman sculpted Cable cuff $775


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FOCUS: ESTATE BUYING

SOMETIMES, NEW-TO-YOU IS GOOD AS NEW.

SEARCHING FOR TREASURES

There has recently been a surging interest in vintage or previouslyowned jewelry and timepieces. For some, it’s about the history,old-word craftsmanship or unique design of the piece, while for

others it may be the concept of recycling and finding new use andenjoyment out of an existing item.

Having the largest selection of fine Swiss timepieces in theMidwest also means that Reis-Nichols has a large following of watchcollectors. Many of our collectors often trade in different models asnew ones are introduced, so several timepieces found in our pre-

owned collection are like new, but offered at a significant savings.Every watch is inspected and serviced by our staff of expertwatchmakers and comes with a written warrantee.

Reis-Nichols has many amazing, hard-to-find jewelry items andwatches, as well as popular favorites. Our expansive collectionchanges and grows daily. Whether you have old, unwanted items thatyou want to liquidate, or you’re on the hunt for a unique and beautifulnew-to-you piece, come check out Reis-Nichols’ vintage and pre-owned collections.

Jon Bennett (left) is Reis-Nichols Jewelers' estate jewelry expert. He has a keen eye and a rich knowledge of the value of pieces throughouteach era of design. Vladimir Dzeletovic (right) is Reis-Nichols Jewelers' estate watch expert. As an avid collector himself, Vladimir isregarded as one of the most skilled watch curators in the industry.

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THESE ARE JUST A FEW OF OUR FABULOUS WATCH SELECTIONSFOR HER. COME IN AND SEE WHAT’S TICKING.

WAT

CHES

CartierTank AnglaiseSmall, $32,900

ChanelJ12, prices vary

based ondiamond dial

options

Baume & MercierHampton, $2,750

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor

Chronograph, $30,000

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A POWERFUL

TRADITIONALReis-Nichols collection, from left: 14K round setting $1,930, platinum baguette setting $3,500, platinum cushion setting $5,175Center diamonds sold separately.

DIAMOND BANDSReis-Nichols collection, from left: channel set band

with 2 ctw diamonds $5,995, braided band with 1.34 ctw $7,550, rolling ring with 1.50 ctw $5,665

All in 18K gold.

SCOTT KAYHeaven’s Gate collection. 14K setting $3,115, matching band $2,950Center diamond sold separately.

PAVÉReis-Nichols collection, from left: Halo setting $1,820,

Embrace setting $1,295, Crossover setting $1,250, band $895Center diamonds sold separately.


SYMBOL

CONTEMPORARYReis-Nichols collection, from left: $2,655, $795, $595, $995

Center diamonds sold separately.

RITANIBrand new from the Masterwork collection $4670

Center diamond sold separately.

VERRAGIOVenetian collection, 18K setting $3,950Center diamond sold separately.

MEN’S WEDDING BANDSReis-Nichols collection, shown from $260 to $1,770


For those who demand perfection, there are few options. Forevermark,part of the De Beers group (the foremost international diamond expertfor 120-plus years), offers only the finest carefully selected, responsibly

sourced diamonds, meticulously cut and inscribed by highly trained mastercraftsmen. Less than one percent of the world’s diamonds are eligible to bearthe Forevermark inscription and only a select group of jewelers (we amongthem) are authorized to sell these incredible gems.

Inscribed using highly advanced proprietary technology, thesesuperlative diamonds feature the Forevermark icon and a uniqueidentification number, both invisible to the naked eye. The actual size of theinscription is one 20th of a micron deep (one 500th the size of a human hair)and can be seen in our store using a special viewer.

Although the inscription in no way affects the exceptional internal qualityof the diamond, it does ensure beauty, rarity, responsible sourcing and addedsecurity. Expert gemologists at The Forevermark Diamond Institute inAntwerp assess each stone according to rigorous standards of integrity andaccuracy. The result is the Forevermark Diamond Grading Report, yourguarantee of excellence and authenticity.

Those of us who are socially conscious should know that Forevermarkdiamonds are guaranteed conflict-free. But more than that, the companygoes above and beyond industry standards to ensure that their sourcingactively benefits communities in their countries of origin, countriescommitted to the highest business, social and environmental standards.

Beauty, rarity and integrity in one quintessential diamond: No wonderForevermark is the jewel of choice for Gwyneth Paltrow, Uma Thurman,Nicole Kidman, Michelle Williams and fabulous women everywhere, on andoff the red carpet.

QUINTESSENTIALDIAMONDS

THERE ARE DIAMONDS, AND THERE ARE FOREVERMARK DIAMONDS.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

PROFILE

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ACCENT(ADVISOR)

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I KNOW WOMENWHO WEARFASHION JEWELRYLIKE BANGLES ORBOLD CUFFS, BUTBUY THESE PIECESAT CLOTHINGSTORES ASOPPOSED TOJEWELERS (EVEN IFTHEY HAVE TOREPURCHASE THEPIECES WHEN THEYTARNISH). WHATARE YOURTHOUGHTS ONTHIS? I think many womenbalance trendy fashionjewelry that they don’texpect to last forever withitems that they cherish,wear often and want to last.Since a great bangle is aclassic that will be in styleforever, it’s worth investingin something both fabulousand enduring.

WHAT’S THEDIFFERENCEBETWEENANTIQUEJEWELRY AND ESTATEJEWELRY?“Estate” is a popular jewelry label,

but does not specify the period ofmanufacture. “Estate” is primarilyused to describe jewelry that ispreviously-owned.

The term “antique” generallyapplies to jewelry items that are atleast 100 years old, the benchmarkused by government officials forduty-free importing of antiques.

For spring 2012, everything old isnew again, so consider both of theseoptions, or try re-setting one of yourown family heirlooms.

WHICH CLASSIC/TIMELESS PIECES ARE MOST LIKELY TOBECOME KEEPSAKES OR HEIRLOOMS? Those that hold their value, can be passed to the next generation, or the piece that becomes yoursignature. We have a client who is never (ever!) seen without a beautiful strand of pearls that herhusband bought her many years ago; whether at the grocery store or at a gala, her pearls say it all.And that’s the key: finding a statement piece of jewelry (“statement” need not mean “expensive”) andletting it become your trademark. We’ve noticed that when times are tougher and discretionaryspending more limited, jewelry becomes even more personal and relationship-driven. If you buy onlyone item this year, make it special and enduring.

WHICH ITEMSSHOULD ICONSIDERBUYING THISSEASON?For both ladies and gents, a good watch is an absolute must! Ifyou can invest in only one great piece of jewelry, let it be apractical and stylish watch to enjoy for many years. It shouldcross over into any activity, and should dress up or down.

When you have more to invest, consider buying both a“dress” and a “sports” watch. But in the interim, one greatwatch transcends numerous styles and ventures!

Three other ideas for ladies: 1) a beautiful strand of pearls,either classic round or baroque (uneven) shaped; 2) diamondstud earrings, a true go-with-everything item to wear withdenim or ball gowns; and 3) a necklace or pendant withpersonal meaning, like your children’s names or initials, animportant date, a display of faith or spirituality. (If you’ve evernoticed women constantly touching their necklaces, it’s likelybecause they feel an emotional connection to the symbol.)

THERE SEEMS TO BE A TREND TOWARDTIMELESS, CLASSIC JEWELRY; WHY?In a tenuous economy, we see two trends: a return to timeless jewelry that can be worn now or 50 years from now, and a wardrobe approach to jewelry,i.e. fashion basics that also make a style statement. While individual taste is still the primary factor when selecting jewelry, fewer people these days areinterested in spending big bucks on anything too trendy. Most realize they can accomplish modern style without sacrificing a “future” for the piece.

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Though the Guess model-turned-actress is always striking, Amber Heard truly smoldered

at the SAG Awards. Her fitted black satin gown epitomized covered-up sexy, while sparkly

diamond studs and metallic smoky eyes added just the right amount of shimmer.

Zac Efron and Michelle Pfeiffer sure made a good looking pair at the New Years Eve premiere.

Yellow gold and pink tourmaline chandelier earrings lit up Pfeiffer’s face and helped prepetuate

that youthful glow. We don’t know how she does it.

For Showtime’s Emmy Nominee Reception at the Mondrian Los Angeles, Claire Danes chose

pavé diamond drop earrings that popped against the silvery threads of her dress. With a confident

RED CARPET

Blonde BombshellsWITH LIGHT LOCKS AND HEAD-TO-TOE STYLE,

WE’D GIVE THESE STUNNING CELEBS AN AWARD ANY DAY. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

AMBER HEARD ZAC EFRON & MICHELLE PFEIFFER CLAIRE DANES

HEA

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smile, flushed cheeks and dewey décolletage, the nominee for Best Actress in a TV Drama looked

like a winner long before they called her name.

Stacy Keibler knows how to accessorize. Adorable arm-candy aside, the former Ravens

cheerleader still looks sensational in the old purple and black, topped off with teardrop earrings,

stacked bangles and a notice-me cocktail ring. As if we wouldn’t have noticed her without it.

All tassel, no hassle! Katherine Heigl’s blue sapphire and black rough-cut diamond earrings lent

an effortless glamour to her gown at the 39th Annual American Music Awards. Paired with a

sparkly strap and matte red lips, the look recalled old Hollywood at its best.

Nothing amps up a little black dress like a statement necklace. At the L.A. premiere of The

Mighty Macs, Marley Shelton chose this blackened beauty to elevate her outfit from ho-hum to

yum! Kelly Osbourne, Kate Mara and Kristin Cavallari have recently been spotted in identical

designs; you can bet that style-savvy ladies everywhere are following suit.

RED CARPET

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STACY KEIBLER & GEORGE CLOONEY KATHERINE HEIGL MARLEY SHELTON

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For those who dig classic conceptual cuisine outside of the traditionalrestaurant box setup, David Burke has becomesomewhat of a hero. In addition to his classic

surf and turf joints, Chef Burke holds court with hisfancy foods inside a Bloomingdale’s, a bowling alleyand an airport. If by chance you don’t recognize theoft-showy culinologist (an expert who blends culinaryarts and food technology) with a penchant forwhimsically sculpting his dishes to dazzlediners by name, there’s still a decentchance you’ve eaten in one of his 10restaurants, or purchased his gourmetproducts. (“Burke in the Box” take-out meal at Las Vegas’ McCarranAirport, anyone?) Or perhaps you’llrecall his very near win against BobbyFlay on Iron Chef, or his too-early kiss-off from Top Chef Masters.

Chef Burke has been a longtimepioneer in the biz of celebrity chefery,cooking up a career that “blurs the linesbetween chef, artist, entrepreneur and

inventor.” His factory of fabulous foodspots tantalizes taste buds through aslew of dramatically different spaces, with entertaining concoctionsappearing on plates throughout New York, and in New Jersey, Chicago,Connecticut and Las Vegas. Then there’s David Burke Townhouse, DavidBurke’s Primehouse, Fromagerie, David Burke Prime, Fishtail by DavidBurke and David Burke Kitchen. Burke is also the mastermind behindPastrami Salmon, GourmetPops, flavor-transfer spice sheets and variousflavor sprays and oils. He’s got two cookbooks and even DAVID BURKE

Magazine. We managed to catch this Renaissance man at his localgreenmarket, shopping for fresh, in-season finds.

You have so many titles! Chef, entrepreneur, artist,inventor.... Which do you feel describes you best?I’ve always felt at home in the kitchen. I was a dish washerin high school. I’d work on the weekends, and that’s when Ifell in love with the idea of working in a kitchen. I get realexcitement from the energy and creative teamwork that

happens in there. So all of the other things I am today cameout of me working in the kitchen. I get a real satisfaction out

of putting together a good product for someone else to enjoy.

MAKING MAGICIN THE FIRST INSTALLMENT OF OUR LEGENDARY CHEF SERIES, WE DISCOVER THAT

DAVID BURKE IS MUCH MORE THAN A WHIZ IN THE KITCHEN. BY SHIRA LEVINE

FOOD

Above: The lively dining room at Fishtail by David Burke.Left: David Burke, longtime pioneer of celebrity chefery.

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Many of today’s entrepreneurial celebrity chefs don’t actuallydo the cooking anymore, but shift their focus to the businessside of things. I still do cook in my kitchens, but it’s been a natural progression for me tobe in and out of the kitchen when need be. I made an early decision that Iwas going to conquer one level of this business at a time. After I reachedthe level of what I truly felt was “me as a good chef,” then it was time to bepartner in a company. Then the next course was to start my own company.I was one of the first chefs to do that. That road had not been paved yet. Itwas the late ’70s and the beginning of modern American food and of chefsas businessmen.

A lot of the David Burke dining experience is about setting thescene, and your restaurants each have very specific, thought-out designs. Would you describe yourself as fashion forward?When you work in the kitchen it’s nearly impossible to be fashion forward!But we do take a lot of pride in the ambiance and décor of the restaurants,especially Townhouse and Kitchen. I was very involved in helping decoratethem, but I’m not a designer. Kitchen is supposed to feel dark and woodsy,comfy—like a home. Bloomingdale’s has an intimate neighborhood feel. Oursteakhouses are more masculine.

What are some other ideas you’re currently excited about?We have a moveable garden in a parking lot at the Rumsfield, New Jerseyrestaurant. This summer we’re going to put each of the gardens in little redwagons so they can move around easily. When guests walk into therestaurant, they will be greeted with a bushel of tomatoes and basil plantsthat they can cut themselves and bring to the hostess. Then we’ll prepare itat the table as part of their appetizer. I just love the idea of that.

What’s your overall food philosophy?I’m always looking to cut out the middleman as much as possible. It’s whatis most economically sound for us. I am always in a local produce marketmyself. We’ve done it with our bread, our dairy and our produce. Fish andseafood are next. We’re also currently building a dry beef company with mypatented salt treatment. Our beef comes from right here in New Jersey. Ibought a bull five years ago in Kentucky so I would know exactly where mybeef comes from and can ensure the quality of what we’re serving. We havethe product down to the genetics, for the perfect marbleization and grading.It was superior planning on our part. We always want to know where ourstuff is coming from.

Do you think all the recent hype around “local” and “seasonal”is silly? Haven’t good chefs been doing this all along? The seasonal and local thing has been done forever, but it hasn’t beentouted. It’s being emphasized now because of the the state of the economy,and high fuel prices. All the recent PR is good, especially since it helpssupport American farmers, but it’s always been what we try to do. However,you have to understand, it’s hard to do local in Chicago in the winter. It’sabsolutely what the mom and pop shops should be aiming for, but it’s hardfor big [national] chains to do it. It’s tough to be 100 percent local; youmight simply not have a good local person for something you need.

How do you please loyal customers who request something thatisn’t in season?In New Jersey we have a lot of clientele who want calamari, but it’s not local

there. In those cases we make exceptions—it’s what the customers want!But when it comes to fruit and people wanting raspberries or blueberriesyear round, we suggest maybe trying a dish with mango or pineapple.

Your menus run the deliciously garish gamut, from BowlmorLanes’ badass burger replete with applewood-smoked bacon,spicy tempura shrimp, cheddar cheese and blue cheese slaw, toDavid Burke Kitchen’s pretzel crabcake with tomato, orangeand green peppercorn. What do you love to order when you eatout, and what do you like to cook at home? I love ordering Peking duck! For myself, I love to prepare pasta. I’ll makegemelli with sweet sausage, tomatoes, olive oil and butter. When I cook forfriends and family, I love to prepare a whole roasted fish, chicken, squab orturkey. My favorite is roasted squab foie gras, cabbage with corn bread andpickled onions.

Is there anything you wish your guests would be a little moreadventurous about trying?Game birds, sweet potatoes and kidneys!

Maple Bacon DatesYields 20 stuffed dates

INGREDIENTS:1⁄4 pound peanuts2 1⁄2 ounces honey1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or 1⁄2 minced jalapeño 20 Medjool dates, cut in half 10 strips of par-baked smoked bacon20 seedless grapes 1 eggFlourBreadcrumbs

METHOD: 1. Heat peanuts, honey and cayenne pepper until caramelized.Cool and puree.2. Stuff puree into Medjool date half, then wrap with a half pieceof par-baked smoked bacon. 3. Lightly beat egg. Dredge grapes in flour, dip in egg wash,then breadcrumbs. Place into a deep fryer filled with hot oil andfry until crispy.4. Place grapes, and then bacon wrapped dates, on bambooskewers and serve.

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BLACK&WHITE

DIAMOND COLLECTION

Clockwise from top left:Teardrop Earrings $3,200

“Love” Necklace $895Black Diamond Necklace $1,150Multi-Diamond Necklace $4,160

Multi-Diamond Ring $3,420Multi-Diamond Earrings $4,545

11.85 ct Black Diamond Ring $13,950Black/White Diamond Hoops $2,800


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FOCUS: COMPLICATIONS by Laurie Kahle

Once watchmakers mastered the measurement of hours, minutes andseconds, they naturally advanced beyond mere timetelling to createever more intricate and ingenious mechanisms. Referred to as

complications, these mechanisms perform a myriad of additionalfunctions from the simple to the sublime. The more complicated a watchis, the more difficult and expensive it is to produce. Despite technology’s

advancement, complicated watches are still in demand—watches likeIWC’s made-to-order, seven-figure, astronomical Portuguese SidéraleScafusia. While some complications are fanciful and superfluous,chronographs and calendars remain perennial favorites with practical usesfor modern lifestyles.

The chronograph, with a timing mechanism similar to a stopwatch,

PASSING TIMECHRONOGRAPH AND CALENDAR COMPLICATIONS LET YOU TRACK

FLEETING TIME FROM SECONDS TO MONTHS.

IWC IngenieurDouble Chronograph

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Date Tourbillon, Baume & Mercier Capeland, Rolex Oyster Perpetual

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originated in France in 1821, when Nicolas Rieussec, watchmaker to KingLouis XVIII, demonstrated his novel device for timing horse races. Using aclock movement, ink-filled markers and two rotating discs—a seconds discthat completed a revolution every minute and a minutes disc that made acomplete rotation every hour—the contraption accurately measured thehorses’ times by pushing the markers onto the discs when each horse crossedthe finish line. The term chronograph translates to “time writer,” particularlyendearing the complication to Montblanc, which is most famous for its pens.The brand acquired the rights to use Nicolas Rieussec’s name, and built acollection of chronographs that shows elapsed time with two fixed handspoised above two turning discs (the seconds and minutes counters), a uniquesystem reminiscent of Rieussec’s original invention.

Rather than using turning discs, sporty chronographs typically feature amechanism that controls a central chronograph hand, which is started,stopped and returned to zero by using push buttons on the side of the case.

As the chronograph hand completes a full turn of the dial each minute, sub-dial totalizers track the number of revolutions and show the elapsed time inminutes and hours.

Variations on chronographs include a flyback function that can be reset tozero and immediately start a new timing episode with a single push, instead ofusing three to stop, reset and restart. A split-seconds chronograph allows you totime separate events that begin but do not finish simultaneously, such astracking cars in a race. Also called a rattrapante, or double chronograph,watches such as IWC’s Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium feature twocentral stopwatch hands that are precisely superimposed so they appear as onehand as they move, until you press a button, which stops the top chronographhand while the bottom one progresses, allowing the measurement of twoseparate periods of time. After recording, another push synchronizes the hands

again, until the split hand is once again stopped for another time measurement. Categorized as astronomical complications, calendar functions track

the passing days and months, with varying degrees of complexity. Asimple calendar displays the numeric date in a window with a single disc,or with two discs to create what’s known as a big date. A full calendarexpands on the basic calendar display to show date, day of the week,month and moon phases. Full and partial simple calendars cannotautomatically adjust for months with fewer than 31 days, so you have toadjust them five times per year. An annual calendar, however,automatically adjusts for months with 30 or 31 days, though it needs to bereset each year on February 28 of non-leap years. Vacheron Constantinrecently put a contemporary twist on the annual calendar by adding aretrograde annual calendar to its Quai de l’Ile collection.

The most complex calendar complication is a perpetual calendar,which is mechanically programmed to account for leap years and requires

no manual correction until March 1, 2100. The watch’s mechanicalmemory uses sequences that are repeated every 48 months, to correspondto the cycle of leap years. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Eight Days Perpetual40, for example, boasts an impressive eight-day power reserve whiledisplaying the date, the day of the week, the month and the year in fourdigits, along with the power reserve, the moon phase, a day/nightindicator, and even the security zone between 10 p.m. and 3 a.m. duringwhich changes must not be made.

This year, Patek Philippe offered the best of both timing and calendarcomplications when it combined a perpetual calendar with its new in-housechronograph movement for the Reference 5270. Sure to be on everyconnoisseur’s hit list, this extremely rare, highly complicated timepiece willland on only a precious few wrists with its price of $156,000.

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Breitling Chronospace Automatic, Patek Philippe 5270, Raymond Weil Parsifal, Panerai Luminor GMT

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HOT WATCHES FOR HIM

RolexYachtMaster GMT, $25,150

PaneraiLuminor 8-Day GMT,

$32,200

TW SteelChronograph, $775

David YurmanChronograph, $4,800

IWCStainless Steel

Portofino, $10,800

18_Reis Nichols_HOT WATCHES - Q6.qxp:REIS_ 3/22/12 2:31 PM Page 43

FOCUS: WATCHMAKING by Karen Alberg Grossman

The first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone buildingnestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with astrong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the

lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in thisRolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemedprincipal Herman Mayer.

Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, andrespect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to developindependent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, ofcourse, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable,well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmakerof today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the high-end watch culture,” Mayer maintains.

His intense two-year program, establishedin 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totallyseparate from the Rolex Service Centerupstairs in the building). Mayer is personallyresponsible for creating and updating thecurriculum, which is also used at watchmakingschools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features sixmain areas of training: history/culture, micro-mechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics

and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer serviceand case/bracelet diagnostics and repair.

The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students(there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’san intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunchbreak) and requires much outside reading and research. According toMayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking intheir free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these twoyears, they pay for later on…”

Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoningto social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine

watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnoseproblems just visually. You need to analyzebased on input and output of the mechanism:it’s behaving a certain way so the problemmust be this or that. You can’t always see theproblem because many watches are built inlayers, so the movements might be covered,or else just too small.”

Mayer admits that among his greatestfrustrations is a decline in abstract thinking

LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM: TEACHING WATCHTHINK

A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE

AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.

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skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this,but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a veryvisual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything soyoung people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmakingcurriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductivereasoning, which is no longer taught in school…”

Why are these skills so critical? “Because evenif the student has worked on hundreds of watches,the next movement that comes along might betotally different than anything he’s experienced. Soit’s not a matter of simply learning to piece thepuzzle together: students need to understand whatthe parts do and how they interact and whether ornot the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rarewhen you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt waterdamage where parts are caked together), becauseeven if spare parts are not available, we can alwaysmake the parts. That’s what we teach them in the‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.”

According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is mid-to late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 andmostly male; there are only one or two females perclass), in a second career but with some previousexposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had someexposure, at least they know what the profession isabout: having to deal all day long with these tinyparts, the responsibility of working on suchvaluable pieces. Of course, there are always somewho drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recentapplicants have included bankers and real estatebrokers, some from major cities. “People havemore appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains.“And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates whowant jobs get them.”

Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),

the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and buildwatches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer,“It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, withmentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with importantdecisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of

the curriculum.” On a personal note, Mayer grew up in

Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focusedon philology and teaching. But at some point, hislove of watches inspired him to study watchmaking,which led him to servicing jobs in the States, andultimately to Lititz.

In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is acollector: he wears a different watch every day andfavors those that combine technical precision with abeautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititzprogram that he even lets his students work on hispersonal watches (excluding vintage handmadepieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was infact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course:Rolex watches are forever…”

His most meaningful watch is one he inheritedfrom his father. “When my dad returned from WWII,the economy was down so he drove a taxi onweekends. An American soldier who couldn’t affordthe fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it everyday for years but at some point, it was difficult to getreplacement parts because their factory had burneddown. Observing the watchmaker adapting spareparts by hand was my first exposure to the craft andits artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.”

Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take theloupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue withmembers of your professional environment. You need to actively live theexciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”

“Nobody buysa fine watch justto tell time…” —Herman Mayer

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FOCUS: PROFILE by Randi Molofsky

Awalk through the historic district of downtown Miami encapsulatesmuch of Michele Watches’ telltale brand appeal: both share an ArtDeco design sensibility, vibrant color palette and bold sense of style.

It’s no wonder Michele is favored by a fashion-forward clientele with aninnate understanding of classic design.

From speedboats to soirees, everything is a little bigger in Miami.The same is true for Michele, as oversized cases emphasize a bit offlash and a signature red button logo creates instant cachet. Miami’sseaside location also necessitates a certain day-to-nighttime glam.Lounging poolside? Bold chronographs with rubber straps from theJelly Bean collection or a sporty white Tahitian Ceramic are chicstandouts. When the sun goes down, diamond-studded timepiecesmake a big statement at affordable prices.

Spring 2012 brings a refined update on Michele’s instantly

recognizable style. Serein, inspired by the Cloette, features a modern takeon a timeless design. A silvery-white dial highlights a fine circular patternand oversized Roman numerals. The Caber Sport maintains the Caber’sround case and T-bar design, now updated with a scalloped bezel andchronograph dial (available with or without diamonds).

One of Michele’s most popular styles, Tahitian Jelly Beans, is alsoreinvented this year in new brights and beach-inspired pastels. Look-at-me neons like pink, blue and green are balanced by seaside neutrals inmint, coral and steel.

Want to make a unique statement any time of year? The brand’scommitment to practicality and fun led them to offer a stunning variety ofstraps that are easily mixed and matched. From alligator to glittery leather,cobalt blue to rainbow stripes, a sense of play makes punctuality a breeze,whether or not you can make it down to North Beach.

SO HOT THEY’RE COOLMICHELE OFFERS STYLES FOR EVERY SETTING.

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SEREIN DIAMOND

Michele.indd 1Michele.indd 1 3/10/12 11:42 AM3/10/12 11:42 AM

My heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartlydressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d beenholding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to

preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entireChristie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantlydressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetablesalads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille.

In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused thevarious lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor hadtouched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, peoplepassionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendousinfluence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their ownwardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady wasour shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’“soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.”

The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me mypaddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs tothe James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras,I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue fromthe “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the

bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie. I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac

pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had beenconsidering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was aFebruary Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection—including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyondcomplementing her violet eyes.

The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the“Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the“ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to securea lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time thebidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & ArpelsPisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsicvalue of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenanceand set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I wassadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000!

As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasinglydejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, theprice was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander RockefellerCenter and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Lovebracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.

LAST BID FOR LOVEAN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO

ESSAY

BLO

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BER

G V

IA G

ETTY

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AGES

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Natural DiamondNot Synthetic

Color Grade

E

Clarity Grade

VS1

Cut Grade

Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry NumberGIA 16354621

Carat Weight

1.53

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY.

A GIA report is certainty from the source.

As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™

GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientifi c.

A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality.

Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who o! er them. www.4cs.gia.edu

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