Ratcliff, Trey - HDR Tutorial for Beginners

7/30/2019 Ratcliff, Trey - HDR Tutorial for Beginners

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HDR TUTORIAL

EVERYTHING YOU NEEDTO KNOW ABOUT HDR

PHOTOGRAPHY

By Trey Ratcliff


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WHAT IS HDR?

HDR is short for High Dynamic Range. It is a post-processing method

of taking either one image or a series ofimages, combining them, andadjusting the contrast ratios to do things that are virtually impossible

with a single aperture and shutter speed. I would say that about 75% of

my images use the technique, and if you are new to it, then you may

notice a slightly different look and feel to my photographs. You should

also probably note thatHDR is a very broad categorization, and I really

hate categorization. My process starts with using basic HDRtechniques, but then there are many more steps to help the photos look

more lets say evocative.

I can talk a little bit more about the philosophy behind the photography

style here for a quick moment. Youmight consider that the way the

human brain keeps track of imagery is not the same way your computer

keeps track of picture files. There is not one aperture, shutter speed,

etc. In fact, sometimes when you are in a beautifulplace or with special

people and you take photos have you ever noticed when you get

back and show them topeople you have to say, Well, you really had to

be there. Even great photographers with amazing cameras canonly

very rarely grab the scene exactly as they saw it. Cameras, by theirbasic-machine-nature, are very good at capturing images, lines,

shadows, shapes but they are not good at capturing a scene the way

the mind remembers and maps it. When you are actually there on the

scene, your eye travels back and forth, letting in more light in some

areas, less light in others, and you create a patchwork-quilt of the

scene. Furthermore, youwill tie in many emotions and feelings into the

imagery as well, and those get associated right there beside thescene.

Now, you will find that as you explore the HDR process, that photos canstart to evoke those deepmemories and emotions in a more tangible

way. Its really a wonderful way of tricking your brain intoexperiencing

much more than a normal photograph.

I will post a few interesting HDR photographs that I have taken that

people seem to like. This first image below is the first HDR photograph

ever to hang in the Smithsonian Institution in D.C. I think this goes to

show howmainstream and accepted HDR can be, if the technique is

properly applied.


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The photo well be working on today


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STEP 1: GET YOUR TOOLS READY

Below is a picture of my desktop before I launch all of these apps.

Speaking of which, Macs are great, and myMacs CPU does not melt

it handles all this stuff with reckless aplomb. I used to be

flummoxed by Macs and find Mac-people distasteful, but Im a

changed man. These things are great! Okay, I digressed way too

early in this tutorial.

By the way, all the steps in the tutorial are the same, whether or notyou are using Mac or Windows.

SOFTWARE I USE (IN ORDER OF IMPORTANCE):

Photomatix Pro (required) Save money by using the codeSTUCKINCUSTOMS grab it from the Photomatix website(theres also a free trial version that leaves a watermark).

Photoshop (recommended) You can also use Photoshop

Elements, although I do not recommend it in my PhotoshopReview because it does not allow other robust plugins. Now, if you

follow the tutorial to the final steps, you will see that I suggest

using Photoshop to clean up problems from Photomatix above.

So, it is notabsolutely necessary, but it is recommended.

Noiseware Professional (optional) I have tried a multitude of

noise reduction software packages.Youll notice that the HDR

process can create a bit of noise, to say the least. I use Noiseware

Professional.
http://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/Photomatixhttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/Buy_Photoshop_Elementshttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/Buy_Photoshop_Elementshttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/photoshop-review/http://www.stuckincustoms.com/photoshop-review/http://www.stuckincustoms.com/photoshop-review/http://www.stuckincustoms.com/photoshop-review/http://www.stuckincustoms.com/photoshop-review/http://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/Buy_Photoshop_Elementshttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/Buy_Photoshop_Elementshttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/Photomatix


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Topaz Adjust (optional and awesome) - This product can helpbring some contrast and pop into the final product. I have a Topaz

Adjust Review here on the site if you wantto read more. If you can

afford a little more, I suggest the wholeTopaz Photoshop Bundlesince it comes witha lot of other goodies too!

What else do I use? I use many tools and have a blast with

them all. If you want other amazing pieces ofsoftware that I use,

then I suggest you see my Nik Review and my onOne Plugin

Review. Both are great!

My clean desktop before the storm.... tools ready... excited to make some art!
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STEP 2: GET SOME EQUIPMENT ON THE SLY SO YOUR

SPOUSE DOESNOT ASK TOO MANY QUESTIONS

To create an HDR image, you need is a camera that can either:

Shoot in Auto-bracketing mode or Auto-exposure mode

or, shoot in RAW (You can also create an HDR image out of asingle RAW photo)

Although you can make a decent HDR from a single RAW file, I

recommend using a camera that hasautobracketing. Autobracketing

is the ability for your camera to take at least 3 pictures right after one

another, each at different exposures. Sometimes its called

Exposure Bracketing. If you are hunting around the menus on your

camera now, just look for the words Autobracketing and perhaps

some numbers like -2, 0, +2. If youhave a DSLR camera, then you

probably already have this ability.

What equipment do I have? People always ask me this, assuming,

Wow you must have a nice camera! Well, Ido have nice cameras

(Nikon D3X and D3S as backup), but many of my best pictures were

taken earlier with alesser Nikons. Im also not what I would consider

a hardcore hardware guy I use equipment to bend nature tomy will,

and I can do the same sort of work with just about any equipment.

Ive now got much higher-end equipment because I can now see the

subtleties somehow I can justify spending a lot of money for minorimprovements in the shots. I justify many sketchy things in my life, but

so do you, so why not add cameraequipment to the heap of latent

guilt?

I started with a Nikon D70. I then went on to the D2X before getting

the D3X that now fills my life like a sweetsong. In addition, I use four

lenses. Again for details on the lenses, visit theHDR Camera section.

As for tripods, I have a giant one with a silky smooth rotating fat

head. I used to have a tiny tripod, but it was too shaky. You gotta

have a solid tripod. What? You dont want to carry around a tripod?

Comon if you are goingout to shoot beautiful pictures, you better
http://www.stuckincustoms.com/hdr-camera/http://www.stuckincustoms.com/hdr-camera/http://www.stuckincustoms.com/hdr-camera/


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get serious. Also, if you have it over your shoulder or carry it in anaggressive way, it makes an effective weapon. As you can see, I go

all over the world, often into sketchy areas, anda big tripod is often

an effective deterrent. I carry it so much, I am very good at flipping itaround and whipping it around my body like ninja nunchaku.

The after shoot


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The before shoot


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The Details at 100%. One surprising thing about HDR is its consistent ability to provide nice details

at the pixel-by-pixel scale.

STEP 3 LOOK AT THE WORLD IN HDR

It is key to choose good HDR candidates. What I look for are extremelevels in light in a given scene.


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SEEING THE WORLD AFRESH

Consider those situations where there is extreme light and extreme

dark, and how you are able to see it when youare there in real life,but you just know if you take a photo of it that it wont come out right.

Also, you normallywould not dare to take a photo looking directly into

the sun, right? Well with HDR you can It will open up a new world

to you and the more HDR photography you shoot and process, the

more you will learn to appreciatelight and the world we live in.

In the last several years, I have taken note of how I see the world

versus the way others see the world. Its one of those age-old

questions: Is green to me the same as green to you? Maybe you justuse the word green, but youactually see what I call yellow! Well, this

question also applies to HDR. Personally, I see the world in HDR,

andthat is how I record my memories. I find these photos entirely

pleasing to admire. Now, I notice that about 80%of other people also

feel the same way. This seems very consistent across audiences

when I speak at universities, photo clubs, seminars, and the like.

And, if you have read this far, then surely you see the world like me,

and you are excited that you have finally found a window into the

truth and future of recording imagery for the rest ofyour life.

Of course, this means 20% of people do not see the world like us. In

fact, they absolutely despise HDR photography. Occasionally, you

will get some old-school people that think post-processing is the work

of thedevil. But, most often, I am convinced they simply dont see the

world like this. They see the world exactly howthe camera spits out

normal images. Thats okay there is no convincing them Hey, we

cant make everyone happy, can we?

A GOOD EXAMPLE OF EXTREME LIGHT LEVELS

Lets work on a photo I did of the Space Shuttle during its final night

on the launch pad. Well go through this guy step by step.

Now, this is a pretty good example of having to re-train your brain

about light levels. Remember, when you are there, on the scene,

your brain can handle it as your eye darts around the scene. Keep


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this in mind as you arearound your house, in your neighborhood,

driving around your city you really are taking for granted how your

brain is able to filter the light levels that your camera cannot.

STEP 4 TAKE YOUR AUTOBRACKETED PICTURES AND

PREPARE FORTHE HDR

Set up your camera in Aperture Priority mode. This is important

because you dont want the multiple photos tohave different areas of

blur.

Turn on Autobracketing. If you have 3 pics in the autobracket, set it

up at -2, 0, +2. On my Nikon D3x, I usuallytake 5 pics at -2, -1, 0, 1,

+2. Id prefer just to take 3 pics at -2, 0, and +2, but this camera only

steps by 1. I think you will find this +2 to -2 range satisfactory for 95%

of situations. An exception, for example, would be shooting the

interior of a house that is extremely dark and there are windows

where the outside is extremely bright.

Other best practices:

For 95% of situations, going from +2 to -2 is enough light range.

Shoot in RAW, if you can. J PG is okay, but RAW gives your more

flexibility later in the processing. RAWphotos contain a lot more

light information than a J PEG. Please note that when processing

in Photomatix later, the RAWs are no better than J PEGs.

Use a tripod, unless you have the steady arms of a late-model

Terminator robot.If you dont use a tripod, its not a big problem, because

Photomatix can align the images for you.Below, you can see the five

images from the Space Shuttle.


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The five images. These were shot with 5different exposures from -2 to +2.

STEP 5 USING PHOTOMATIX PRO

Now it is time to fire up Photomatix and get crunk in the HDR house.

Okay that was stupid. I never would saycrunk in real life so dont

think I am that sort of person.

Photomatix will take your photos and convert them into an HDR

image. You can then tonemap the image and save it as a J PEG. Ill

take you through this process.

You can run Photomatix in a few ways:

To generate an single HDR from some autobraketed shots (most

common for beginners and the bulk of this tutorial)

To do a huge batch of HDRs after you come back from a shootTo

convert a single RAW photo into an HDR

Lets go over the first one in detail. When Photomatix is loaded up,

you just see a menu. Note that I am using Photomatix 4.1 Beta, and


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new versions come out all the time. However, later iterations should

still work withinthe margin of error of the following screenshots.

Note: You will see that I have 5 J PGs here. I used Lightroom to

convert the 5 RAWS to 5 J PG. You can usePhotomatix to open up

the RAW photos as well, but Photomatix itself will do the conversion

on its own. It is yourdecision here, but I find (and other do as well)

that converting to J PG before can sometimes to a better job.

After clicking "Load Bracket Photos", choose "Browse" to go find your photos.


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Choose the photos and then click "Load".

Choose the images you like then click OK. You will then see a

second dialog that is below. Here is an explanationof what is going

on:

Notes:

If you feel like you had some camera shake, choose Align Source

Images If there was movement or ghosting, chose Reduce

ghosting artifacts

This will take you to another screen where you can then select the

area of the photo that has the ghosting. After that, you can select

which component photo to use instead of the ghost.


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If you shot at a high ISO or anticipate a lot of noise, choseReduce noise

If you have the sort of lens or situation that gives you annoying

chromatic aberrations (those nasty purpleand green outlines yousee at 100% sometimes), then choose this option to help minimize

those.

There are not many wrong choices you can make on this dialog,so dont panic.

Preprocessing options allow you to make a few choices that affect theoverall processing of the images.

No worries, there are no bad choices to make here!


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Click Preprocess and now your computer will churn like a farm of

computers generating a single frame from a Pixar movie. Note that if

you checked any of the boxes above, this processing steps even

longer.

Every picture is different. There is no right way to set these sliders.

There is certainly a wrong way to doit, though. I am sure you have

seen lots of crappy HDR images. Below, I paste an example of how

you canreally make your image look too funkadelic. Funkadelic is

cool if that is what you want or you have a lot ofdruggie friends that

like laser light shows and your mind-bending HDRs, but most people

dont like them. Actually, please dont look at my old work. Its a little

over-the-top too I cringe when I think about it. J ust look at the

newer stuff. Thank you kindly.

Actually, I keep my older stuff up there to illustrate how much

progress you can make in such a short time. I hope this is as

inspirational for you as it is embarrassing to me.


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Friends don't let friends do HDR on drugs.

Above, you can see the options I selected. Its way overdone. The

key setting is in that Lighting Adjustmentssection. J ust be careful.

Please! For the sake of humanity.

Below, you can see the default settings. Note that if you are afraid of

all the sliders, you can just pick the pre- made thumbnails on theright, and youll be in business. The rest of the tutorial describes how

I use thecontrols.


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These are the default settings that appear in Photomatix. Since every photo isdifferent, I advise getting to know and "playing" with the sliders.

Now, its time to start making the adjustments that are good for this

image in particular. Remember, none of these settings are cast in

stone:


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Strength Keep it at 100%. If it comes out too strong, you can

always dial it back later in Photoshop,should you want to go into the

Advanced steps.

Color Saturation Keep it reasonable. Dont over-saturate your

photo. Again, each photo is different. There is a difference between

color that pops and color that bleeds too electric. Remember, HDR is

aboutlight, not about over-saturation!

Luminosity This is used for the painterly effect, let us say. The

further to the right, the less contrast willbe in the photo. If you find

yourself with Halo problems in daylight shots, moving this to the farright will help.

Detail Contrast A mysterious slider that helps the details and

fluctuations in colors on the very smallscale. Like the others, play

with this until it looks and feels right. Generally, the more to the right,

the moregrungy and black-contrasty it becomes.

Lighting Adjustments This is an important slider that effects theHDRness of the shot. The more tothe left, the more psychedelic.

White Point & Black Point Be sure to pop the Black Point off the

left side, where it rests by default. Bringing a bit of black into the

image will help the other colors resonate. Adjust the White Point so

that thebright parts of the image are not blown out.

All the other sliders? They are interesting, but I honestly dont usethem much. I wont waste your valuabletime by going into extreme

descriptions of oft-ignored controls.


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I have used arrows here to point to the sliders I use the most often.


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Once you have set everything up with the sliders, click Process andsave the result.

YOURE DONE!!

You can make a case that you are all finished now! J ust getting to

this point can make a tremendous differencein your photos.

Now, personally, there are more steps that I go through. These are a

series of advanced steps sort of a masters touch that borders on

the obsessive.

ADVANCED TECHNIQUES STEP 1 PHOTOSHOP FUN!

What? You are not good at Photoshop? First you tell me you dont like

carrying tripods, and then you tell me youdont like using Photoshop.

How about this Lets get you a little bit out of your comfort zone, eh?

Thats what good friends do right push you to make yourself better.If you keep doing things you are comfortable with, thenyou are never

going to improve and experience new things, right? So comon get

with it.. Photoshop is great fun.

As you might have seen, Photomatix is great, but it probably messed

up parts of the image that you now need to repair.


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.

Four things are worth cleaning up... minor bits that are important to me

So, how do we fix this? Briefly, is what we are gonna do:

Import all of the original images plus the .J PG we just made inPhotomatix

Please note that this is kind of overkill to import all of them

over time, you will probably only import just the ones you need,

as you will see.

Repair the areas that are broken via Masking through to some of

the original photos.Sharpen the image, since photomatix washed

it out a little bit.

Fix the noise. Noise is not always a problem, but it does crop up atnight from time to time.


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After all the layers have been added to Photoshop. You can see I put the Photomatix

Tonemapped image on the top layer.

How many of the original images should you bring into Photoshop? It

depends on which of them you want to remix. In this case, I will

import five of them. We likely wont use all of them, but we have many

options forrepairing broken parts. There are elements from each of

these five exposures that perhaps I will remix into the tonemapped

version.


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Treys Undeniable Truth of HDR Photography #34: If

you shoot during the daytime and there is a nice

blue sky, your HDR processing will make your sky

look gray, mottled, and possibly give it a halo thatwill make viewers curl in a ball and cry. If you do not

fix this in Photoshop by masking in the original sky

before you upload to show your friends, then they

may no longer be your friends.

Okay, moving on. Maybe you should go get another coffee or a glassof red things are about to get juicy.

STACKING AND ALIGNING THE PHOTOS

In the screenshot below, look down in the lower right at the layers.

You can see the six layers there. I put thePhotomatix result on the

top layer, and stacked the other five below. The order does not

matter. Note that as youbecome more advanced, you will not need to

bring in all of these originals. Maybe just one or two will do thetrick.


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A zoom-in of the layers panel. The top one is the visible one,

and the layers can be moved around by dragging.

To import the photos, there are a variety of ways, as there is with

everything in Photoshop! If you read thefollowing bullet point list, I

will assume you are a beginner, so I will try tell you the easiest way!

If you have Adobe Bridge, you can select all the photos, then go to

Tools>Photoshop>Load Files into Photoshop Layers and

voila, all are in one Photoshop window!

After you open all the images into Photoshop, you will have

multiple images. You can then copy one at atime and paste them

into the same photo document. That will create layers for you.

After that, you can draglayers up and down the layer panel to put

them in whatever order you choose.


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STEP 2 MASKING DONT BE A-SCAREDEDED

What is masking? Masking allows you to poke through one layer tosee the layer that is beneath. You can eitherpoke through 100%,

50%, or however much you choose.

You do this with a brush. By adjusting the area and opacity of the

brush, you can choose where and how much to poke through.

Th

These are the areas that I would like to mask. I want to darken the bit inside the yellow because Ifeel like it came out too bright in the Photomatix result.


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A close-up of the layers and mask. The white box is the mask and

the scribbles inside show where the top layer pokes through to the

bottom layer.

Above, you can see a little white box with grey scribbles in it. That

white box is the mask, and it was created by clicking on that layer

and then clicking on that little icon on the bottom that looks like a grey

rectangle with awhite dot in the middle.

Here are more specific steps to create a mask and start revealing thelayer underneath:

Click on the top layer (the one you want to punch through)On the

Menu, go to Layer > Create Layer Mask > Reveal All.Choose the

brush tool (or hit B).


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At the top, there are two areas to adjust:Opacity - Set that to 30%. This means how hard you will be

pushing down the brush to punch throughto the bottom layer.

Multiple brush strokes will make that percentage go up Forexample, if you brush over the same spot ten times or so,

youll be at 100% see-through!

Brush Click that dropdown and make the brush size 100.

You will keep adjusting this size throughout, depending on

what you want!

Quick Tip to change the size of the brush quickly usethe bracket keys ( [ and ] )

Now that you created the mask, you will see a little white box onthat layer down in the lower right. See it?

Click on that little white box because THAT represents the mask.

Make sure your chosen color over on the right is BLACK.

Start using the brush on the photo. Each stroke will make that

layer 30% more transparent. If you strokethe same area over andover again, you will get to 100%, which allows you to see the layer

underneath.

Bonus Tip: Are you still MASSIVELY confused by Masking? This

happens often because of my lousydescription. I suggest you visit

this niceYouTube Video on Masking (note that I did not make that

video).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DA8TgyTruV8http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DA8TgyTruV8


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MERGING LAYERS

After you are done masking the two layers together, Merge Layers inthe menu or by pressing Command (Ctrl onPC) E. This will collapse

them into a single layer.

I continue to do this in area after area until I have a final image thatmakes me happy.

STEP 3 SHARPENING

The previous HDR process can drain some of the line and contrast

from your shot. Have you seen some shots that look a bit washed out

or too painterly? The way to bring back in some line and

microcontrast is to usesomething like Unsharp Mask (which is free

and already in Photoshop) or use something like the Topaz Adjust

below.

In the screenshot, I highlighted a few of my favorite presets. After I

choose a preset, I usually tweak the sliders abit to make sure I get

the effect I want.

Topaz Adjust You can grab it from theTopaz Website. I have a

Topaz Adjust Review here on the site ifyou want to read more. If

you can afford a little more, I suggest the wholeTopaz PhotoshopBundle since itcomes with a lot of other goodies too!
http://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/get_Topazhttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/get_Topazhttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/get_Topazhttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/topaz-adjust-review/http://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/get_Topazhttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/get_Topazhttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/get_Topazhttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/get_Topazhttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/get_Topazhttp://www.stuckincustoms.com/topaz-adjust-review/http://www.stuckincustoms.com/links/get_Topaz


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It is important to fix the parts of the photo that might have been washed out by the HDR

process earlier.

STEP 4 NOISE REDUCTION

You may notice that you probably have noise in the finished result.

The HDR Process does this it is an unfortunate side effect, but

easily cleaned up.


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I will not go into the full description of Noiseware here, but you arewelcome to go read my Noiseware Review.The only thing I really

have to do is to show you the following screenshot. I mean, are youkidding me? The only tip I can add beyond this, for a full masterstouch, is to create a duplicate layer of your finished product beforedoing the noise reduction. It may get rid of some details you quite like,in which case you can use the masking tricks above to just keep thedetails and noise how you best see fit for your own work of art.

As you can see below, this can help make your final product look a lotmore silky-smooth.

Noiseware is great for noise reduction - just look at those results!
http://www.stuckincustoms.com/noiseware-review/http://www.stuckincustoms.com/noiseware-review/http://www.stuckincustoms.com/noiseware-review/


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OTHER TOOLS

Now that you are done with that, here are some other tools that I

recommend. These are part of my workflow, and I recommend you get

these and play with them all!

Nik Software Nik makes a great suite of tools I recommend. Use

the Coupon Code of STUCKINCUSTOMS to save the most amount

of money. You can get it from the Nik Software website. I have a full

Nik Reviewhere on the site for more info.

OnOne Software This is another great suite of powerful tools that I

use a lot. Use the Coupon CodeSTUCKINCUSTOMS to save the

most amount of money when ordering from the onOne Software

website. Ihave a full review of the OnOne Plugin here on the site for

you.

Lucis Pro Ive also started using Lucis Pro more and more. Its a lot

like LucisArt, but its even better. Ivewritten a Lucis Pro Reviewand a

Lucis Tutorial here on the site, which maybe you can save for later.

The same coupon code for LucisArt applies here of

TREYRATCLIFF. She tells me its the best one available.
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BONUS STEP PROCESSING A SINGLE RAW FILE

In Photomatix, go you can simply open a RAW file and then go right to

Tone Mapping! If you are on a Mac, youcan just drag your RAW fileand drop it right on the Photomatix application. This is a new feature,

and awelcome time saver You will get a little warning that it is not a

true HDR image (a pseudo-HDR image), butjust ignore that.

People ask me all the time if it is better to use just One RAW or

multiple. Well, sometimes you have no choice if the subject is

moving but the result can be quite nice in both conditions. For the

record, I always take multiple exposures whenever possible.

MORE

That is an hour of your life you will never get back, but lets hope you

formed some good memories and skills tocreate more. Best of luck

and I thank you for all your comments and feedback. I currently have

over 65,000emails unread in my photography inbox, so I apologize if Ido not get back to you just dont have enough time Iam afraid. But

thanks for all your comments and support! I hope you all have as

much fun with HDR as I am again, best of luck to you!

Documents

Ratcliff, Trey - HDR Tutorial for Beginners