As the global market for antiperspirant and deodorant products (AP/DEO) is growing, the consumer requirements are increasing. An effective AP/DEO should not only safely and effectively reduce odor, but it must also show excellent sensorial properties and reduce white stains and marks on both clothes and skin. Understanding the interplay between the polymer and surfactants is important since the polymer may affect the rheology and performance of personal care cleansing formulations.

MILD NATURALLY-DERIVED HUMECTANTAlkoxylated methyl glycosides, such as PPG-20 methyl glucose ether (Glucam™ P-20 Humectant), a solvent offering good fragrance fixation properties as well as interesting sensorial benefits such as reduction in tackiness, provide excellent performances in AP/DEO formulations containing antiperspirant agents (e.g., aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate derivatives) by reducing white residue left on skin and subsequently transferred onto textile substrates.

Key features and benefits

• Derived from natural sources• Humectancy• Stability enhancement• Reduction of antiperspirant white stain transfer marks• Good spreading and sensory profile • Mildness• Fragrance fixation

EVALUATION OF PPG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE ETHER FOR REDUCING WHITE STAINS ON SKIN FROM AN ANHYDROUS AP/DEO FORMULATIONThe impact of the addition of PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether in an anhydrous cream containing 20% of Aluminum-Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Glycine Complex is shown below.

TABLE 1: Anhydrous AP/DEO Example Formulation With and Without PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether

INCI NAME / TRADE NAME % wt % wt FUNCTION

A. 1. Cyclomethicone 51,40 54,40 Emollient

2. Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone Crosspolymer 5,00 5,00 Emollient

B. 3. PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether / Glucam™ P-20 Humectant 3,00 - Emollient

4. BHT 0,10 0,10 Antioxidant

5. Diisostearyl Fumarate / Schercemol™ DISF Ester 5,00 5,00 Emollient

6. Isostearyl Hydroxystearate / Schercemol™ SHS Ester 7,00 7,00 Emollient

C. 7. Silica Dimethyl Silylate 3,50 3,50 Thickener

8. Tapioca Starch 5,00 5,00 Filler

D. 9. Aluminum-Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Glycine Complex 20,00 20,00 Antiperspirant Active

Procedure for evaluation of the white stain residues on skin:

• Apply on the volar forearm 0.10 g of the formulation inside a circle (d=51 mm)• Spread 25 times around the circle• Hold 2 minutes• Photograph the forearm

FIGURE 1: Results of the Evaluations in Anhydrous AP/DEO Formulations

The formulation containing PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether also shows enhanced stability compared to the one without this humectant. The formulation without PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether showed oil separation after 2 weeks at room temperature while the formulation with this humectant remained.

EVALUATION OF PPG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE ETHER FOR REDUCING TRANSFER OF WHITE STAINS FROM AN AP/DEO EMULSION FORMULATION TO A TEXTILE SUBSTRATEPropoxylated ethers, such as PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, are traditionally used in antiperspirant and deodorant (AP/DEO) applications to reduce tackiness, improve skin feel, and prevent the recrystallisation of salts. The impact of the addition of PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether or PPG-15 Stearyl Ether in an emulsion containing 15% of Aluminum Chlorohydrate is shown below.

PPG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE ETHER FOR REDUCING WHITE STAIN TRANSFER IN ANTIPERSPIRANT AND DEODORANT (AP/DEO) FORMULATIONSAuthors: Erica Navarro, Luciana Ferra, Luciene Bastos, Joseph Zellia

TABLE 2: Antiperspirant Roll-on Emulsion with PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether vs. PPG-15 Stearyl Ether

INCI NAME / TRADE NAME % wt % wt FUNCTION

A. 1. Water 57.70 57.70 Diluent

2. Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 Chelating Agent

B. 3. Steareth-2 3.00 3.00 Emulsifier

4. Steareth-21 0,75 0,75 Emulsifier

5. PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether / Glucam™ P-20 Humectant 7.00 - Humectant

6. PPG-15 Stearyl Ether - 7.00 Emollient

7. Ceteareth-20 1.00 1.00 Emulsifier

8. Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and

Propylparaben and Butylparaben0.50 0.50 Preservative

C. 9. Aluminum Chlorohydrate (50%) 30,00 30,00 Antiperspirant Active

Visual evaluations were performed to compare white stain residues imparted by the two different formulations.

Procedure for the evaluation of white stains on skin and on fabric:

• Weigh 0.10 g of AP/DEO using an analytical balance• Clean volar forearms with alcohol (70%)• Apply 0.10 g of the formula onto volar forearm, inside a circle (d=51 mm)• Spread 10 times around the circle• Hold until the product dries• Put a piece of cotton fabric onto the circle• Place a 200 gram weight on cotton fabric and rub it onto the piece of fabric in one direction 10 times• Pick-off the piece of fabric and take a picture of the forearm and cotton fabric

FIGURE 2: Impact of PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether vs. PPG-15 Stearyl Ether in an Antiperspirant Roll-on Emulsion Formulation on Appearance of White Stains on Skin and Fabric

The pictures of the fabrics have been converted to binary images in order to calculate the amount of stain on fabric. All pictures from the fabrics were taken at the same place, from the same distance.

Procedure for evaluation of the white stain residues on fabric:

• Crop from the picture a 6 cm x 6 cm section for analysis. • Adjust brightness/ contrast level on the picture to highlight the residue on the cloth. • Convert the images to 8 bit images, and then to a binary images.• Evaluate the circular area to determine the number of black pixels versus the number of white pixels (the black

now represents the white stains on the cloth in the original pictures). The residue fraction is calculated from the total image area.

• Calculate and compare the residues.

FIGURE 4: Comparison of Residue Area Faction Measured on Cotton Fabric by 3 Different Volunteers

Alkoxylated methyl ether glycosides such as PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether can be formulated into antiperspirant and deodorant compositions to mitigate white stain transfer onto skin and textile substrates while providing some humectancy and a good sensory profile.

For more information, samples and starting formulations visit www.lubrizol.com/personalcareAll trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation. © 2012 The Lubrizol Corporation

PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether

With PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether

Without PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether

PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether demonstrates superior performances, reducing white marks left on the skin from this anhydrous antiperspirant formulation.

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether

PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether

FIGURE 3: Binary Images of the Residue Area on Cotton Fabric Show the Residue Area Fraction Imparted by the Antiperspirant Formulated with PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether (left) to be Less than the One Formulated with PPG-15 Stearyl Ether (right)

As shown in Figure 4, for all 3 volunteers, the formulation containing PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether showed a better result than with PPG-15 Stearyl Ether.

PPG-20 Methyl glucose Ether (Glucam™ P-20 Humectant) is a corn-based methyl glucoside derivative that delivers moisture to the skin without leaving a tacky residue.

METHYL GLUCOSIDE BASIC CHEMISTRY

H–C = O

H–C–OH

HO–C–H

H–C–OH

H–C–OH

H2C–OH

0 2 4 6 8

10 12 14

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PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether

PPG-15Stearyl Ether

PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether