Powderlife Magazine Issue no.18 Global Edition 09

WINTER SPORTS ENTERTAINMENT REAL ESTATE FREE

Niseko’s powder lifestyle magazine fresh every two weeks

issue 18 global edition 2009

www.powderl i fe.com

NISEKOseason 09/10

Your Guide to Niseko- Everything you need to know -

FREE POSTER T amazing images for your wall

RESTAURANT GUIDE T reviews, listings + recipes

LANGUAGE TIPS T learn the basics before you go

NISEKO SURVIVAL essential niseko travel tips

OFF-HILL ACTIVITIES there's more to niseko than skiing

NIGHT SKIINGniseko's vast flood-lit terrain

FLASH T check out the niseko social scene

7 Page Seven // village news and happenings 8 Niseko News // be the first to know 10 Snap // faces and fashion on the mountain11 Flash // niseko’s nightlife and party scene12 Powder Tools // essentials for Niseko powder

21 Japanese Cooking // soup curry and teriyaki chicken 22 Meet the Locals // introducing niseko locals23 Irasshaimase // great little local businesses25 Learning Japanese // japanese basics 26 Course Map // mountain info 27 Niseko Powder 101 // beginner's guide to pow 28 Walking Map // must have village directory29 Phone Directory // your town pages30 Local Information // essential tips and info on Niseko

OFF-MOUNTAIN ACTIVITIESThere's more to Niseko than skiing: If you somehow get tired of skiing, there's plenty of other stuff to do.14

NISEKO SURVIVAL GUIDE Essential Niseko travel tips: A whole heap of info to make sure your trip to Niseko goes as smoothly as possible.24

RESTAURANT REVIEWS Powderlife reviews two of Niseko's many dining options: Restaurant Yo and Sekka Dining.20

FEATURES A WAIST-DEEP LOOK AT NISEKO

BACKCOUNTRY HIKE OUT THE BACK FOR THE REST

GROOMERSNEWS PEOPLE PARTIES ETC

intro T contents page

NIGHT RIDERS Niseko's vast flood-lit terrain: Nocturnal mountain riders are treated to some of the world's best night terrain.18

winter print run 40,000 estimated readership 100,000+

this global edition 16,000 copies estimated readership 40,000+

Distributed at ski and travel expos, ski and snowboard stores and

wintersports businesses across Australia, Singapore, Hong Kong,

Malaysia and the United Kingdom

出版者 publisher Bevan Colless ベバン・コレス

編集長 managing editor Kristian Lund クリスチャン・ランド

副編集長 associate editor Matthew Thomas マッシュー・トマス

デザイナー designer Geoffrey McRoberts ジェフ・マックロバーツ

投稿者 contributors Katherine Bont, Yasmin Edwards, Vanessa

Gibson, Yuri Hamada, Sachiko Kageyama, Jerod McCann, Chika

Matsuda, Naoki Miyamura, Tess Stomski, Saoka Wakasugi, Kim

Wejendorp and studio tdes

写真撮影 photography Glen Claydon Photography, Luke Hurford,

ideapark, Jahl Marshall, Niseko Photography, Mike Richards

広告掲載に関するお問い合わせ advertising inquiries

[email protected]

予約購読/既刊 subscriptions / past issues

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Powderlife Niseko Magazine is a Niseko Media Publication

パウダーライフマガジンはニセコメディアが出版しています

170-5 Aza Yamada Kutchan-cho

Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081

tel 0136 22 2000 fax 0136 22 2011

www.powderlife.com

©2009 Niseko Media KK

Contents of Powderlife are subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in

part without written permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publication

of editorial does not necessarily constitute an endorsement of views or

opinions expressed. The publisher does not accept responsibility for state-

ments made by advertisers.

Niseko’s first English language periodical magazine – published every

two weeks in Niseko between December and March, once as a Global

Edition, and once as Summerlife.

ニセコ初の定期刊行雑誌。冬季期間（１２月～３月）は２週間に１回cover Kelly McEwan on cloud Niseko photo Niseko Photography

A THOUSAND WORDSA gallery of the season's best action from the slopes... as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.16

2 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com

I FIRST came to Niseko in 2006/07 to cross ‘do a ski season’ off my list of things to do before I got old. At the end of the season I was going to backpack around Europe for a few months so I could cross that off my list too. As it turns out, ‘backpack around Europe’ is still there… I’ve been in Niseko ever since. There’s something about Niseko that gets people hooked, and for so many, whether they’re tourists, seasonal workers, or just passing through on business, one trip isn’t enough and they come back again and again.

I had skied a little while growing up but never anything like the deep powder I experienced here for the first time. I made the change to snowboarding here, and within a week I was venturing off the groomed runs and into the deep stuff, up to my waist, gliding through the softest, lightest snow imaginable. Within two weeks I was looking for deeper and steeper slopes and going harder and faster. Once I started, I couldn’t get enough of the feeling of freefalling down the mountain but still having complete control – it’s so deep you can throw all your weight to one side to turn and literally stop in an instant. I still don’t know exactly what it is that I love so much about floating through powder… it just feels so good.

Snow is what first brings most people here, but it’s also everything about the area that makes them stay. Japanese cuisine is becoming increasingly popular and trendy around the world. In Niseko, there are so many excellent restaurants to suit all budgets and tastes (to get an idea see our restaurant directory at www.powderlife.com/restaurants). Even after three years I still haven’t tried them all. Onsens (hot springs) are another unique aspect of Niseko. Bathing outside in sub-zero temperatures with pillows of snow all around in a traditional Japanese onsen is an amazing cultural experience, not to mention fantastically therapeutic after a long day on the mountain.

Word of mouth has played a big part in Niseko’s rapid rise to international prominence over the past few years. People can’t stop talking about how great their holiday was! Hearing about it is one thing, experiencing it for yourself is another. After reading this magazine, there's a good chance ‘go to Niseko’ will be on your to do list. We hope you’ll be crossing it off soon. See you then!

Kristian Lund, Powderlife Managing Editor [email protected]

editor’s note...

intro T editor’s note

Photo: Jahl Marshall


holiday niseko

By Bevan Colless and Matthew Thomaspage seven T news

>> Yep, 2008/09 was a good seasonTHERE can be almost no doubting that if one of the main goals on your skiing holiday is to get untracked powder, you should be coming to Niseko. Local weather watcher Mike ‘Pow’ Richards collates his own snowfall data and has been keeping meticulous record for the past three seasons. According to Mike’s data to the end of March, the longest period without any snowfall at village level all season was 10 days... and that was before the lifts started running for the season. In other words, if you were here for a two-week holiday at any time this season you would have had your powder fix. 08/09 seemed to have more lift closures due to high winds, and more mid-winter warm spells than in recent seasons, but it was still head and shoulders above other resorts in Japan. By mid-April, Niseko had seen 12.09m of snow at village level. The heaviest snow month was January with 334cm overall and one whopping overnight dump of 52cm. February chipped in with 262cm and March (the dark horse) added a further 154cm, most of which fell in the epic last week of the month to round off another extra long powder season in Niseko.

Cultural snapshotsHAVE you ever wondered what you would look like dressed up in a Japanese kimono? If you're a guy that's a bit strange, but if you're a girl, what better experience to take home from Niseko? Beautiful young local lady Sanae-san's Sakura Japanese Cultural Experience allows you to dress up in your choice of kimono and have professional photos taken for posterity. To truly immerse yourself in Japanese culture, you can also partake in a traditional green tea ceremony – there’s more to it than you think!

>> Barking mad for dog sleddingTEN hard-working huskies were among the newest residents to arrive in Niseko last season.

The ’08-’09 winter marked Niseko’s dog sledding debut, offering an experience just like you would get in the wilds of Alaska or Siberia – well, almost. The Niseko Dog Sledding Experience boasts a holiday from the usual skiing, boarding or hiking, and is run from the golf course at the foot of the Hilton hotel in Niseko Village. There’s not much use for the golf course during the winter – for obvious reasons – so hole No. 10 has been transformed into a 400m dog sledding track. The five-minute rides are for single and tandem riders, with the sled pulled by two to three Alaskan huskies at a time. Niseko Village’s marketing coordinator Tomoko Kazama recently tried her hand at dog sledding for the first time, describing her ride as ‘speedy and fun’. “It’s very interesting, too, because not many people have tried being pulled around in a sled by dogs before,” she says. “So it is a new experience for most people.”

Tomoko says many people would have seen, or more likely heard, the cute canines in the village. “You can hear the dogs barking and howling most of the time wherever you are in Niseko Village,” she says. “When I first heard them, I thought they were sad, but as soon as they start running they just don’t quit – they love pulling people around.”

Dog sledding runs throughout winter and costs ¥3675. For more information visit www.powderlife.com/activities.

IT'S A DOG'S LIFE... sledding guides with three of the Alaskan huskies.

>> A board for each foot: the ultimate powder toolTOKI-SAN from local retail and hire shop Niseko 343 was the coach of a national ski team, and has been in Niseko for a long time – so you can imagine he knows a thing or two about how to ski powder well. He’s watched snowboarders float over the white stuff while he was sinking into it for years, so one day he decided, if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em. So Toki-san fashioned a pair of skis out of two snowboards to get him gliding over the powder with even more float than the boarders. He tried a few different methods of fitting the ski bindings to the board, and this season settled on the perfect system. “I’ve used the K2 Pontoon (one of the fattest skis on the market), but these give me 10 times the flotation of those,” he says. “They give your inner thighs a real workout on the groomed runs, but on a powder day these are unbelievable. I’ve never felt flotation like it. I’ve used them 10 times so far this season, and been down from the peak three times.” Does he get some strange looks while wearing them? “Yes, people are always stopping me to take photos and asking me what they are like,” he says. And what if someone wanted to have a try of them for themselves? “I wouldn’t want to hire them out, I think they’d probably do themselves an injury,” he says. Okay, Toki-san, we’ll leave it to you.

BUILT FOR POW... Toki-san with his custom skis

DEEEP... Mike Richards taking some measurements. Photo: Glen Claydon.

Car Danchi compTHE Powderlife office was snowed under (it had to be said) earlier this year with amazing readers' pics of cars buried in snow for our Car Danchi competition. We put up for grabs a complete set of Hokkaido’s famous Car Danchi snowboarding DVDs for the person who sent us the best photo. After wading through mound upon mound of awesome entries, we had a heap of favourites. But at the end of the day, we had to go with Andreas Comninos’s poor little snow-covered Suzuki Cultus. Covered in a giant mushroom of snow, this little buzz-box never stood a chance. Andreas found the car, similar to a Suzuki Swift, near the Ice Bar in Hirafu’s Middle Village. It was covered in so much snow, the car barely looked like a car at all. “I had to dig it out and take about 14 multiple angles, just to prove that this was a car buried in the white good stuff,” Andreas says. We also gave away six T-shirts as complimentary prizes to the runners up, along with the major DVD prize. To see all the pics that we couldn't fit the mag, and to gain an insight in to just how much snow Niseko gets, check out www.powderlife.com/media/photo-gallery/car-danchi.

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6 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com global edition 2009 ISSUE 18 powderlife 7

Keep up to date with the coming season

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news T niseko newsBy Yuri Hamada, Kristian Lund, Matthew Thomas

2020 vision for a shot at bullet train

Best of Niseko 08/09HOW can you possibly choose a favourite restaurant in Niseko?! You can't. So you have to ask the public to vote for theirs in Powderlife's Best of Niseko Awards. The people have spoken, the votes are counted. It ’s time to announce Niseko’s most popular businesses for 2008/09...

Restaurant – SekkaNew chefs Kat and Kim's passion is obvious, and obviously impressed the critics this year.Izakaya – RinNestled in the Lower Village, this unassuming izakaya wins over everyone lucky enough to find it.Bar – Yuki BarSpacious, smoke-free, international party atmosphere. One of Niseko's great good time bars!!Onsen – HiltonLooking out across the carp-filled pond towards Mt Yotei, this is a classic Japanese onsen experience.Café – Downtown CaféGreat food, great coffee, great location, great atmosphere, love the couches... (and cute staff!).Convenience store – LawsonSeicomart gets more business, but the long lines are a killer... and Lawson has the 'juicy chicken'!Resort – Niseko VillageGreat groomers, amazing off-piste, 'ski-in' onsen. Niseko Village has something for everyone.

THIS time next year it will be known whether Niseko will be serviced by Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo, according to local officials.

If it goes ahead, the service would be completed by 2020 and make it much quicker and easier for international visitors to transfer from Narita, Japan’s busiest international hub in Tokyo.

Local government believes the ease with which domestic and international tourists could travel to Niseko, and the resulting increase in associated economic benefits and infrastructure, could greatly enhance tourism and associated benefits in the area.

The trip from Tokyo to the local Kutchan Station would take three-and-a-half hours. Kutchan to Sapporo would take just 15 minutes, as opposed to two-to-three hours by road.

Prices have not yet been confirmed, but based on the cost of the 630km bullet train trip to Aomori at the northern tip of the mainland (¥15,350), it could be estimated the remaining 360km could bring the total to about ¥20,000-25,000. In comparison, the trip from Tokyo’s international airport Narita to Niseko, including ground transfers, can take between five and eight hours, and cost between ¥15,000 and ¥30,000.

In 2004 the Japanese government confirmed the train would link Hokkaido to the mainland with a station at Hakodate, on the southern tip of the island, by 2015, and work began in 2005. Environmental impact studies and economic assessments are currently being undertaken and the government is expected to make an announcement about whether the line will extend to Sapporo, via Kutchan, in March next year.

Youko Tanaka, spokesperson for the Kutchan Town Office, is confident the train line will go ahead, and said there would be many positives for Niseko and Kutchan if it did.

Ultimately the region would grow in local population and tourism numbers, she said.

Given the short commute time between Sapporo and Niseko, more people from Sapporo could live in the unpopulated region of Niseko while working in Sapporo, Japan’s fifth largest city with a population of about 1.9 million. It would also give people north of Tokyo on the mainland the ability to easily access the area, where previously they would have had to travel by slow local train, or via Tokyo.

While planes are often disrupted by snow storms in winter, a train service would rarely be delayed by

FUJI-SAN... A Shinkansen passes in front of Mt Yotei's big brother.

weather. On the bullet train, skiers from Sapporo would also be able to access Niseko more easily, as previously the easiest way to get there was by car on slow, icy roads. The associated economic benefits would probably ensure Eki Mae Dori, Kutchan’s main street, would be redeveloped.

Ms Tanaka said a possible negative may be the disruption of local train services, which may inconvenience locals and those from surrounding districts looking to access Kutchan.

According to current plans, 80 per cent of the track from Hakodate to Sapporo would be tunnels, with plans to bring the line above ground around the Niseko region to allow the view of Mt Yotei and surrounds.

The train that would run the route would be the fastest in the world with a top speed of 360kmh.

IN what is a first for Japan, Hanazono ski resort this season opened its covered magic carpet lifts in a bid to cater for families and beginner skiers and boarders.

With three belt lifts in total, ranging from 60m to 125m in length, the magic carpets are pretty hard to miss – long, tunnel-like conveyor belt lifts that link the lower ski runs with ‘308’, Hanazono’s centre and heart with a restaurant, shops, media systems, entertainment and more.

Niseko mostly caters to intermediate and advanced riders with deep powder cravings – and does so very well indeed. However, Hanazono saw an opportunity to provide ‘the perfect learning environment for beginners’, said the resort’s marketing director, Nigel Abbott. He said the magic carpets also serviced the snow tube and toboggan tracks at Hanazono, to create the ‘perfect snow play environment’. “Whether you’re a snowboarder or skier, child or adult, our learner basin with these magic carpets, combined with obstacle courses to develop skills, and good-quality groomed snow, provides the perfect environment for anyone who is starting out in the snow,” Mr Abbott said. “This makes the whole experience around learning very enjoyable.”

Hanazono also caters for kids, offering a fun full-day, indoor-outdoor package with an instructor, offering ‘pint-sized good times’. “We also have an indoor facility for kids, with kids-size tables, toilets, toys and activities,” Mr Abbott said. “Kids can go in and get some shelter from the snow and basically just have fun. Parents can drop their kids off, hand them over to a qualified instructor and pick them up at the end of the day, knowing they are safe and having a great time.”

Mr Abbott said that while the magic carpets were designed with novices, families and children in mind,

they still helped out more experienced skiers and boarders who were simply exhausted. “If you just can’t be bothered, and are burned out after a big day up the mountain, you can hop on the magic carpet and jump out at the top and relax at 308, sit around, and have something to eat or drink,” he said.

Mr Abbott said that this season marked the beginning of Hanazono achieving full day resort status, with plenty of plans in the pipeline for the future. “This is the start of the first stage of the development of Hanazono as a resort,” he said. “This is just a taste of what is to come. We are really gearing up for the future and want to bring more and more people to the area that want to learn to ski or snowboard, or simply indulge in some snow play.”

The Hanazono 308 Snowsports Centre opened in December last year and is the first building to mark Hanazono’s future master-planned resort development. At the base of the resort, 308 is the home of Hanazono's on-mountain activities, including its ski school, retail and ski hire centre and restaurant.

Beginners flying high on magic carpetMAGIC... Hanazono's magic carpet.


socials T snap

Splash was the place to be all season and Annie,

Miyumi and Olivia were loving this local favourite.

flash T socials

Two beautiful ladies under one wing, a beer in the other. No wonder Powderlife's associate editor Matt's so happy with himself.

Everyone was seeing double in the Red Bar when it

came to smokin' sisters Avril and Maddy.

It's a tough job, but someone had to document all the parties going on in Niseko this season...

Takako and Yoshitaka from Fukushima, north of Tokyo, were

here for the first time and love that they can access so much

ungroomed backcountry safely. “They rope off the most

dangerous areas but other than that you can ride everywhere!!!”

Maree and Wayne from Australia said Niseko had a unique feel like nowhere else in the world. “We thought that the first time we came here, it ’s just so unique. It ’s so peaceful and quiet up on the mountain, and everyone's so laid back.”

French pro skier Nicolas and 'cover-girl' Kelly from Scotland said

the best thing about Niseko is the peak is accessible by lift: “You

only have a 15-minute walk to the peak, then you ski waist-deep

powder to the lifts at the bottom… then you do it again! What

else do you want?”

Mountain Style

CHECK out Kentaro’s ‘monster’ of a jacket! While this styling 686 number came with a wicked monster design it also came with a monstrous price tag of ¥30,000 - because it’s rare – apparently one of only 15 ever made. The Hiroshima boarder thought it was a good deal, though – a small price to pay for stylin’ it up when he and his monster mash the mountain. Kentaro thought his 686 pants matched

up perfectly with his jacket, and we ahhhhgree. Kentaro-san, for your frightfully good taste you win a Niseko fleece from Fusion.

Big, burly blokes Derek, Tyson and Chris tried

hard to play down their macho reputations with

their very Smurfy T-shirts at the Yuki Bar.

It took a lot of effort to gather up these gorgeous gals for a group shot,

but we think everyone will agree the final product was worth it.

Dress up parties were all the rage in Niseko this season, and

these girls were shining at this Rubik's Cube-themed bash.

This Mongolian yak herdsman happened to be passing through Niseko when he stopped in for a bit of random insanity at Dragon Bar.

These girls were loving the spotlight when the

Powderlife camera came their way.

Inski’s Wipeout of the Week

CHRISTOPHE Machet was this season’s prestigious Powderlife Wipeout of the Week grand champion. Less than a second after this frame was snapped, the flying Frenchman took out the hapless photographer below. For this Chamonix skier, Niseko's powder is an open licence to do some pretty crazy things. Even better if those crazy things are caught on film, says Christophe who emailed us the snap. “I couldn't resist the temptation to jump over the trees,” he admits. “There's just so much snow… but I now know that sometimes wood can be hard to bend! But anyway, no injuries, and we saved the pictures for your magazine – that's the most important point!” Thanks, Christophe! Wipeout of the Week will be back next season, so keep the photos coming and we may just publish them in the 2009/10. Email hi-res photos with a short blurb to [email protected]. Oh, and keep going big!

With Takako, Maki and Yuri looking like this, no wonder the fellas flocked to Samurai Bar for the 'Tight and Bright' Party.

Anna, Hannah and Morgan get high and reach for the

sky inside Samurai Bar's Mongolian Yurt tent.

Ladies dressed as lamb, AJ and Jess, spent the night

dodging the advances of a pack of dart-happy

wolves at Wild Bill's for the darts grand final.

Powderlife talks to skiers and boarders on the slopes to find out what they love about Niseko.

Danny, Queenie, Frank and Rica from Hong Kong were having the time of their lives on their first day in Niseko, and they hadn’t even been up the lifts yet. They liked that Niseko offered a cool change and there was plenty of beautiful white scenery to take in.

Colourful Minami, outnumbered by a posse of male friends from Sapporo

– Yuta, Mikuo, Takuya, Hiroaki, Shohei – were very clear about why they liked Niseko – great powder and beautiful scenery. They also love drinking

beer at their hotel at the end of the day!

Francis from Singapore, Erdina from Indonesia and Weeks from

Malaysia said number one on their list was the snow: “It’s better

quality than Vale (one of North America’s premier resorts). The resort

isn’t so big, it ’s easy to get around and the people are so nice.”

Chris and Dennis, was that night together in the snow cave really an accident?

Allie bounded across the room, dodging several Grand Final darts, for the chance to be in this shot with Mami, Micks and Ai.

The WIld Bill's crew took some time out from pouring

drinks for a team shot. Thanks for the great service!

The big wigs of Dragon, Fumie and Noriko, were schmoozing

with the local gangsters at their crazy end of season bash.

Ed, Jordan, Amber and Lynda figured "Why go to the bar for a beer when the bar can come to you?!" Good thinking Yuki Bar!

Russians Katerina, Yevgeny and Sasha love the international feel of

Niseko: “It’s a really multicultural resort and even though we’re in

Japan, it's easy to communicate. There's a lot of people but it

doesn’t feel busy. Oh yeah, the food is good and the beer is great.”

FLASHFLASH


By Bevan Collessgear T powder tools

VOLKL have just about the biggest team of test skiers in the business, and they listen to their feedback, which has helped them become one of the most decorated ski manufacturers in the world. If you're into your powder skiing you'll be thinking about packing a reverse camber pair in your quiver. Alongside K2’s Hell Bents, the Volkl Chopsticks are the leaders in this caper. The Chopsticks pack a full wood core for plenty of pop and bend when you need it and boast a meaty 128cm under foot. Available from Larry Adler. Call +81 136 21 4050. Buy the Volkl branded chopsticks in the ski wrapping for ¥85,000 and they’ll throw in the skis for free.

“I AM Shark Man. I am Hungry.” So says the opening line of the classic Hokkaido powder snow DVD Car Danchi 2, overlayed on a shot of diminutive Japanese shredder Takamasa, ripping some incredible turns in deep powder on one of the notorious Nitro Guns. If this 181cm deck is not too long for him then it’s not too long for you either. Just the look of it screams of deep, deep snow. The massive swallow tail and signature shark’s mouth base graphic will make sure you turn heads in the lift queues but this board is more than just for show. The nose will rise above the lightest and deepest powder and it is built with plenty of flex so you can really whip your turns, and it'l l stil l get you down groomers with ease. These bad boys sell out very quickly but Spadout.com still have some in stock for US$750. Get clicking.

MOST mountain clothing labels make an instant statement about their wearer. Burton: “I’m a boarder”; Spyder: “I’m a skier”; Billabong: “I’m actually more of a surfer”. Wearing Haglofs just says “I know my stuff”. This Swedish brand is one of my favourites and in Northern Europe the mountain-hardened locals won’t be seen in anything else. Built from Gore-Tex soft shell fabric, the Couloir is 100 per cent waterproof, and, due to its fleece backer, warmer than almost any other shell on the market. It has two hand-warmer pockets and a useful chest pocket to hide essentials, and the big helmet- compatible hood will shield you from Siberia’s winds. It has the requisite internal powder skirt that clips onto your pants; so you’ll leave Niseko's powder in the bowls where it belongs. Available from Niseko 343 Call: +81 136 23 0343. ¥73,500. Quality costs.

LOVE skiing but hate cold feet? You can spend all your dough on flash skis, boards, pants and thermals, but if your toes are frozen and about to fall off you’re unlikely to be having much fun. Hotronic is the original all-day battery powered foot-warmer and they’re still the best. A rechargeable battery back clips onto the back of your boots and is wired to a paper thin electrode that sits under the ball of your foot. The electrode heats up from 1-4 depending on your needs, and a fully charged battery provides between three to 21 hours of power, depending on the level of heating required. Your toes need never be cold again. The M4 is their top of the line unit and it has been used on a number of Mt Everest summits, so they should get you to the top of Niseko's Mt Annupuri or Yotei easy enough. Available from Larry Adler, on special for ¥28,000. Call +81 136 21 4050.

Haglofs Couloir Jacket

Volkl Chopsticks

Hotronic M4 Foot Warmer

Nitro Gun Powderstick

BLACK DIAMOND

Niseko Off-PisteNiseko Back BowlsRusutsu ToursKokusai ToursKiroro ToursBackcountry

Where have you been this week?

RESTAURANT & BAR

GUIDING

[email protected] 090-2054-8687

[email protected] www.bdlodge.com 0136-44-1144

Japanese & Western CuisineGood Tunes, Vids, DrinksFree Shuttles (call for pickup)

Private Terrain ParkPool Table

SKIER: JP AUCLAIRPHOTO: DAVID LEVIN


THE amazing snowfall Niseko receives attracts thousands of international tourists to the area, but when they arrive, they realise Niseko is so much more than just a ski hill.

Situated on the golf course at the base of the Niseko Village Hilton, dog sledding is something that everyone should try once in their lifetime. Upon arrival, you will be shown to the course from the office, passing about six out of eleven (on a rotation system) excited Alaskan huskies outside their own snow cave home. Firstly, the sledding guides will get you on the back of a snowmobile to show you the course – a simple loop, somewhat similar to a small racetrack. Once you get your bearings, you’ll stand on the small, wooden-framed sled and learn to get around the one tight corner. There’s a small seat at the front of the sled for the little ones, to get everyone involved. Before you know it, two friendly, pumped up dogs are clipped on and you’re off. Around the 400m track, around the corners and up and down the mini-hills, the dogs run the last leg with enthusiasm for the prize of vegetable soup waiting at the finish line. Dog sledding runs from 10am-3pm, but Powderlife’s tip is to get the earliest booking you can, when the dogs are full of energy and the snow is fresh. For ¥3,675 for adults and ¥2,675 for children, dog sledding is a great experience that people of all ages can try. For more information go to www.powderlife.com/activities.

There's more to Niseko than skiing...

Dog sledding

SnowmobilingA number of companies run fully-guided, hands-on snowmobiling tours in Niseko’s backcountry. With terrain suited for all levels from beginner to expert, you can simply drive slowly around a track or venture out to the far reaches of the deep powder backcountry to places that are unattainable by foot, ski or board. Costs range from ¥1000 for a quick burn up, to around ¥40,000 for full and half days tours. Check www.powderlife.com/activities for companies.

Igloo campingBoukenkazoku offers a range of activities but one of the most unique is igloo camping (¥7350 per person, includes two meals, minimum two persons). More information at www.bouken-kazoku.com.

Hanazono Adventure Park Loads of activities for both big and small kids to enjoy daily, from 9am to 4pm. Drive your own snowmobile on a summertime golf course for ¥1100 yen, drive for 8km on the Rabbit Course for ¥6400. Covered magic carpets offer lift access for snow play fun on sleds and snow-tubes. Tubes are ¥1800 per hour, or use the premium sled, complete with brakes and steering mechanism, for ¥1500. Snow-rafting whisks you around a specially designed course of berms for ¥1500 for adults and ¥1000 for children. And enjoy a guided tour and strap on some snowshoes. An hour for ¥3000 for adults and ¥2500 for kids. More info at www.skihanazono.com.

Kids Land Annupuri Tobogganing and tubing for the little ones between 9.30am and 4pm at Annupuri. Tobogganing is ¥300, and tubing is ¥500 per hour. For more information call +81 136 58 2080, or check www.cks.chuo-bus.co.jp/annupuri.

Hirafu Alpen Kids Park and ZooTobogganing and tubing all day for free from 11am to 5pm. There is also a zoo with penguins, rabbits and llamas, open from 10.30am until 5pm. Cost is ¥500. For more information call the Alpen Hotel on +81 136 22 1105.

Niseko Kids at Niseko VillageTobogganing and tubing for free from 8.30am to 4.30pm. Go to www.powderlife.com/activities for details.

Kids’s Snow AdventuresDesigned for the little ones aged four to 12 years, experienced instructors ensure children enjoy themselves with a variety of snow activities on these half and full-day programs. ¥5000 for a half day, or ¥11,000 for a full-day including lunch. More information at www.powderlife.com/activities.

Staying in the snow

Fun for the young ones

Photo: Glen Claydon.

Snowshoeing

SNOWSHOEING... SAS guide Binod with Yasmin on frozen Half Moon Lake

By Yasmin Edwards and Matthew Thomas

Hilton Niseko Village Pure ActionStep inside from the cold and have some fun at Hilton Niseko Village's huge inflated adventure park. Drop metres on to an inflated landing pad or joust with your friend on an elevated cylinder – the loser plummets to a soft rubber landing below. Open every afternoon ¥1350.

KaraokeIt sometimes comes as a surprise to foreigners that karaoke originated in Japan. Here it’s usually done in private booths, which is a great way for those who are a little shy to have a go, and they'll discover it really is a fantastic, liberating experience. For a list of Niseko karaoke joints go to www.powderlife.com/activities.

Winter river rafting cruisesJust the thought of how cold local rivers must be in winter is enough to make you shiver. But drifting down the local Shiribetsu River under the guidance of a professional local rafting guide gives tourists the opportunity to experience Niseko's amazing snowbound landscape from a completely different perspective. Tours with Hokkaido Lion Adventures and NOASC are roughly 1-2 hours and cost about ¥4000, less for kids. For details check www.powderlife.com/activities.

Snowshoe PaintballSnowshoeing is fun, but snowshoeing while trying to shoot your friends takes it to another level. Snowshoe Paintball is on the outskirts of Hirafu. ¥6300 per person for 150 paint balls. Minimum of six people to play. Open 1.30pm-3.30pm. For contact details go to www.powderlife.com/activities

Indoor rock climbingHad enough of working your legs outside in the cold? Maybe it's time to balance things up a bit by giving your upper a body a workout on Niseko's indoor climbing wall. Located inside NAC (Niseko Adventure Centre), there's walls of varying heights and difficulties for kids to adults. JoJo's cafe upstairs overlooks the 10m main wall, which is great for a post climb lunch, dinner or snack. Open 8.30am-10pm every day.

Activities with a difference

Onsens (hot spring baths)Niseko is home to many great onsens. Bathing in these steaming hot baths with family and friends is one of Japan's favourite cultural past times, and the perfect relaxing answer to a long day up the mountain. Onsens vary in price, but average around ¥600-800 per person. For a list of Niseko onsens and a list of cultural onsen dos and don'ts, go to www.powderlife.com/activities.

Japanese language classesOne of the great things about visiting a foreign country is communicating with the locals in their own language. Learn basic Japanese with Sarah and Yon (who write Powderlife’s ‘Japanese for Powder People’ column, see p25). Learn useful words and phrases. Cost: ¥1000 (includes one drink). For time and location details go to www.thedailyenglishshow.com/nisekojapanese.

Kutchan Cultural ToursWant an authentic Japanese cultural experience? Try Kutchan’s Cultural Tours, a hit throughout the season. These tours of ‘K-Town’ offer a taste of the orient with an insight into a Japanese tea ceremony, a natural history museum and a Niseko sake brewery. Tours depart from the Niseko Safety Information Centre (next to Seicomart). For more information, call +81 136 23 0222.

Japanese cooking workshopsWant to try and recreate that superb dish you had at that izakaya last night? Niseko Gourmet offers Japanese cooking workshops during winter. For details see www.niseko-gourmet.com. T

Japanese culture

One of the special attractions in Niseko is to walk on a lake of solid ice, especially when you discover the same lake is a popular swimming hole in summer. Scott Adventure Sports (SAS) runs snowshoeing tours to Hangetsu-ko (Half-Moon Lake), that people of any age can enjoy. They will pick you up from your accommodation and take you on the short 10-minute drive to the lake at the foot of Mt Yotei before you strap into the snowshoes and head off. The walk into the lake is beautiful and peaceful, and once you’re on the lake your guide might fill a saucepan with snow and boil you a cup of tea and supply you with some snacks. If you're really lucky he might sing you a Nepali lullaby while you rest. You can traipse out on the lake for as long as you like before you decide to return to the van. A great day out that everyone can enjoy. Call SAS for bookings on +81 136 21 3333 or go to: www.sas-net.com.

DOG'S LIFE... two Alaskan huskies take Vanessa for a ride.

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There's a rich culture, warm hospitality, amazing cuisine, vibrant nightlife and an endless range of unique activities to experience. Whether you want to make a snowman, take a Japanese cooking class, or get behind the handle bars of a 150hp snowmobile, there's something for everyone to do off the mountain in Niseko.

We’ve rounded up a comprehensive list of activities on offer for those days, and nights, when you want to take off the skis or board and experience something else Niseko has to offer. You won’t be short of options!

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A thousand

words...

TRAILBLAZING… leaving only tracks and vapour trails in the backcountry. Photo: Glen Claydon.

MUSHROOMS… Tom Costa enjoys a trip deep in the backcountry. Photo: Glen Claydon.

FIRST TRACKS… Hideaki Imaizumi enjoys some early morning solitude. Photo: Luke Hurford.

SHADY CHARACTER… a Niseko boarder takes cover from the sunshine. Photo: Rory Gardiner, Niseko Photography.

POSTCARD PERFECT… Mt Yotei provides a beautiful backdrop to the ski slopes. Photo: Jahl Marshall.

YES, SENSEI… ski instructor Adrian Camp gives a lesson in demolition. Photo: Glen Claydon.

Night riders: Niseko after dark

After dark, three-of-four Niseko United resorts are still open for business – Hirafu, Niseko Village and Annupuri – with Hirafu the most popular and ample locale for night riding. True to Niseko’s belief in opening up as much terrain as possible – as per its liberal, accessible backcountry policy – a vast amount of the mountain is well-lit and rideable by night, especially in Hirafu, where about 70ha of mountain is open, accessed by most lifts, except for the peak. Niseko is one of the few places in the world that is so well-lit at night, off-piste and tree runs are still there for the taking, as well as the groomers; it’s a strange yet amazing experience being able to dash confidently between trees at night.

It should be said that the mountain is a completely different world in the hours of darkness, and well worth exploring. “With the way the mountains are lit up at night, it’s like a 3D fantasy world up there when it’s dark,” says Annupuri’s general manager, Toshio Fujisawa. “Skiing at night is part of Japan’s snow culture, because Japanese always try to maximise the amount of time they spend riding up on the mountain.”

Although crowds are rarely a problem at the moment in Niseko, runs are often deserted at night time, meaning skiers and boarders can get open slather on the mountain, and don’t usually have to deal with lift queues or crowded runs. It’s mostly local riders, and not so much the tourists, who take advantage of the mountain once the sun has disappeared. Sliding downhill by night is popularly thought of as a pastime of the skilled; it’s when the pros to come out and play after work, because most tourists are too preoccupied hitting the bars and restaurants. Having all this space to themselves, Niseko’s skiers and boarders will often be seen riding much faster, and with wild abandon and an aura of invincibility. Although it’s dark, night time is show time.

With fewer people on the mountain, it can usually make for a treat for riders, because the mountain and its precious powder doesn’t get tracked out or smashed up anywhere near as fast. There can regularly be more powder out there at night than riders know what to do with. The groomers, which, during the day, are tracked out almost instantly and resemble corduroy, have even

been known to be knee-deep in powder by night, and nothing short of amazing. Get up there at night after the lifts have been reopened from being closed all day due to high winds, and you’ll often be treated to some of the best banked up powder on offer. If the snow’s really coming down, much of the time your tracks will be filled in by the time it takes to get to the bottom and catch the lift back up to the top. Niseko nights are usually when the sometimes harsh weather goes to bed – it can be calm and eerily still, and with temperatures lower, it frequently makes for lighter, fluffier, better quality powder.

Many would be surprised to hear that visibility at night is often crystal-clear – much better than during the day, when daytime white-outs frequently make things a little unclear. With a good pair of goggles, moments of clarity are a constant at night.

So, considering all this, the next time you want to call it a night, head to the pub, or hit the onsen, perhaps reconsider and go back up for a night ride. Then, when the sun eventually creeps back up over Mt Yotei, it’s time for riding by day with the diurnals.

ON average, currently about 900 individual skiers and boarders head up the mountain after dark, compared to around 4000 during the day. At Hirafu, 1287 metal halide lamps have been erected strategically around the resort, lighting a vast amount of accessible night terrain, including the Ace Family Pair lift for beginners, and plenty of intermediate and advanced courses and tree runs, both on and off-piste. Every day, it costs Hirafu around ¥100,000 to power its lights with 1100 kilowatts per hour until last lifts at around 9pm.

A smaller night spot is at Niseko Village, formerly known as Higashiyama, which has been operational at night for about 25 years. Niseko Village has two lifts operating – Banzai and the Community Chair – which give access to night runs such as Don’t Blink, Pure Magic, Cruiser, Next Stage, Shaky Knees and Final Fling. In the ’06-’07 season, Niseko Village had almost 75,000 riders pass through the gates, and over 100,000 last

season. It costs Niseko Village more than ¥5000 to light its runs each night, not including costs to power lifts. With 35 years of night-skiing, Annupuri is traditionally the only resort to groom its runs after the daytime skiers and boarders carve it up – before the night riding begins. Around 1800 people go through the turnstiles at Annupuri each evening (may include one rider going up multiple times), to access 14.7ha of terrain – the courses open at night time are Family, Junior and Dynamic runs. One busy night two years ago saw the gates at Annupuri tick over around 4500 times in one evening. It costs about ¥20,000 per night to power the lights at Annupuri, which run at 263 kilowatts per hour. With mostly flat terrain accessible at night, and lit by three different sorts of lights (214 in total) to give off a ‘moody, 3D effect’, Annupuri offers a good night spot for beginners or families keen to get out for a ride after dark.

Niseko nights: the stats

IN THE SPOTLIGHT... the lack of sunlight didn't stop Aaron Karitis of Alaskan H20 Heli-Guides getting deep at Hirafu. Photo: Glen Claydon

Peter, Hong KongI don’t have a particular preference between day and night. I like skiing night and day, but the best thing about night skiing is there are far fewer people.

Theo, Hong KongThe light and the snow are both better at night. When I skied Whistler at night, only the bottom of the mountain was usually open. But in Niseko, most of the mountain is rideable.

Bruce, AustraliaIt ’s bloody awesome – you can actually see what’s going on! I’ve had my best skiing here at night. The light and the way the shadows are cast on the

mountain look amazing.

Randall, AustraliaThere are fewer people up there at night, and we’ve got two young kids who settle down in front of the TV, so we can take turns skiing. It also helps you work

up a thirst for Japanese beer, too.

Shougo, SapporoIt ’s easy to see all the bumps at night, and it’s not too cold. I like both day and night skiing. I usually go night skiing about two or three times a month.

Yuka, Osaka (living in Niseko)I go night skiing on my nights off, so about three or four times a week. If I’m not working, I go night riding, unless it ’s windy because it gets too cold. The snow is fluffier at night too. T

The voice of the peopleNight riders have their say in Niseko

Powderlife took to the slopes to ask the public what they thought of night riding in Niseko...

NOCTURNAL skiers and snowboarders in Niseko are treated to some of the best flood-lit night terrain the world has to offer.

NISEKO has offered night skiing at Grand Hirafu – the most popular night-time hotspot – since way back in February, 1967…believe it or not.

X ANNUPURI

NISEKO VILLAGE

XHIRAFUX

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NIGHTTIME PANORAMA... From left to right, Niseko United's Annupuri, Niseko Village and Grand Hirafu. Photo: Niseko Photography.

feature T night riders night riders T featureBy Matthew Thomas

AIN'T IT GRAND... there's so much terrain to explore after dark at Grand Hirafu. Photo: Niseko Photography.


Simple Teriyaki ChickenTess Stomski and Sachiko Kageyama from Niseko Gourmet share their teriyaki chicken recipe.

Ingredients6 cups chicken or beef stock1 carrot, diced1 celery stick, diced4 onions, sliced thin1 apple1 can whole tomatoes1 chunk dark chocolate1 bay leaf5 large cloves garlic1 large thumb ginger1 large dried chili pepperDry spice mix of cumin, turmeric, coriander, black pepper corn, garam masala, curry powder, oil (as needed), salt/pepper

Making the roux1. In a wide-base 2L pot, add sliced onion and a tablespoon of oil. Sauté on low heat until amber-brown with a paste-like texture (caramelised).2. Grind garlic, ginger and apple into onions. Simmer 5 minutes, mash well.3. Add all dry spice mix, chocolate, dried chilli, continue mashing. Simmer again until dry.4. Add tomato and simmer, continue mixing.5. Once roux has thickened to heavy paste, incorporate stock. Increase heat and bring to a light boil.

Finishing the soup1. Lower heat until simmering and add carrots, celery and bay leaf.2. Simmer for 2 hours, occasionally scraping the bottom of the pot to prevent burning.3. Cut heat and ladle curry into separate bowl through metal strainer. With each ladle full, push curry through strainer making sure to get all liquids out. Transfer back to 2L pot and bring back to low simmer.4. Adjust seasoning with salt, adding more dry spices if necessary.

Creating the dishYou can be creative – just about anything can go into a soup curry. The chef’s recommends trying carrot, mushroom, pumpkin, potato, green snap peas, a boiled egg and a leg of chicken. Assemble in the middle of a large serving bowl and ladle in the hot curry soup. Side with freshly cooked rice.

Hokkaido Soup CurryBy Jerod McCann & Naoki Miyamura of EN in-house fine dining.

Restaurant YoBy Kat and KimSekka Dining chefs

Savour an ancient culture at Hurry Slowly

THE original Sekka restaurant was one of modern-day Niseko's first really chic eateries. Now a brand name encompassing everything from delicatessens to uber-luxury property developments, Sekka’s new restaurant, in the stylish new J-Sekka complex, has helped take the local restaurant scene to new heights. Now it’s not only very elegant, but the food has taken it to a sublime new level with the arrival of some great new talent in the kitchen in Katherine Bont and Kim Wejendorp. Kat and Kim spent the past decade travelling the world, working in a variety of top restaurants and sampling exotic cuisine. Their influence convinced the public to vote Sekka Dining best restaurant in Powderlife’s Best of Niseko Awards this year for the first time.

From the moment you enter Sekka, you are immediately aware it is something different. Set in a large vaulted basement space, diners first wind their way down into a glowing lobby, passing a life-size print of two sumo wrestlers entangled mid-battle, before entering the restaurant. A mezzanine level above overlooks the central main dining space. In one corner is a floor-to-ceiling glass fronted wine cellar, and a projector shoots grainy old Japanese film footage onto one wall.

At our table, exquisite large Reidel glasses – not common in Japanese dining, and probably unknown

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NESTLED down in the Lower Village, tucked away behind pension Hurry Slowly, is Restaurant Yo, one of Niseko’s great traditional Japanese dining experiences. Yo is no ordinary restaurant – bookings need to be made at least a day in advance as they source their ingredients fresh every morning, and only enough for the customers they have that evening. Just dropping in won’t do, and with only four tables and a barbeque room, booking early is advised.

When you make the booking, you’re asked which menu you’d like. On offer is the original menu at ¥3500 per person, consisting of nine to 10 dishes, where you get to choose the star attraction from a beef sukiyaki course, a seafood course, a vegetable course, or a hand-rolled sushi (temakizushi) course. There’s also another option for Japanese barbecue for ¥4500 per person; served in the traditional style, with a sunken hearth to charcoal grill meat, seafood and vegetables. Served alongside the barbecue is a hot pot, salad, sashimi and more. Then there is the beef shabu-shabu, where you cook the thinly sliced beef in a pot of simmering broth on the table, then dip it into your favourite sauce. Served alongside the shabu-shabu course you get temakizushi, yakitori and salad. We opted for the ¥5500 special course. Here, you can still choose from the previous four courses, with the addition of a few more premium Hokkaido specialties, such as Taraba crab. We both agreed on the beef sukiyaki course.

On arrival, we step through the door into a little stone garden that leads to the restaurant. Even the chef pops around the corner to welcome us. Looking around, each table is in its own small separate room, but windows through to the other rooms ensure you feel private, though not isolated. As the food has already been

Sekka DiningBy Vanessa GibsonPowderlife’s resident foodie

anywhere else in Niseko – complement the excellent wine list. We ordered a glass of the Alkoomi Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, and to accompany it some fresh homemade flatbread dipped in olive oil and fresh aromatic dukkah, something I had previously eyed off in the attached deli.

Sekka has always had Italian-Japanese fusion influences, but this season Kat and Kim have worked hard to source exquisite Hokkaido delicacies, and prepare them with a variety of imaginative techniques. We were finding it difficult to choose a starter, they all looked so enticing. Kat helped us with our decision, recommending the hamachi (yellowtail) cured with sake and served with scattered Hokkaido green olives, capers and wisps of saffron. The dish was light and

Again, the aroma leaps out and drags us in. The tofu, silky soft, takes the subtle flavour from the crab beautifully. The next dish in the progression is a bit of a 'do-it-yourself-er'. A small clay grill, embellished with kanji calligraphy and filled with glowing coals, lands on the table followed by a tray of goodness – the goodness being okra, shitake mushrooms, Hokkaido diver scallop, Taraba crab leg and Wagyu beef. The idea is to grill each piece to your liking, then dip it in to the waiting wasabi, salt or lemon. It’s just like cooking on an outdoor barbecue, only inside and at a table. The crab is phenomenal, the taraba is juicy and sweet, and the flesh from the legs just keeps on coming. The Wagyu beef flavour lasted and lasted.

A trio of nigiri sushi appeared quickly after the grill was removed, the rice shaped into cute little rounds. They were topped with salmon, eel and scallop, still warm from the cooker and seasoned just so. As the last nigiri disappeared, a plate of ultra-fresh sashimi filled

ordered, the only decision to make is what to drink. The sampler set of sakes is a great way to experience the subtle differences between good Japanese rice wines, and get a feel for what you would like to continue the evening with. We both agreed our favourite was the Hakkaizan, dry with a little spice. Oishii!

The first dish of the evening is a small plate of zensai (Japanese hors d'œuvre), some small school prawns, cream cheese with bonito and nori (dried seaweed), and four plump edamame (soybeans in the pod) with a sprinkle of togarashi (a hot Japanese spice). After we have savoured the zensai, a small flame is lit under a stone cooker in front of each of us. Under the lid, mushrooms, tofu, negi (spring onion), onion, Japanese herbs and the famous Wagyu beef sit in a little broth, gently heating until cooked, with a raw egg on the side to dip in to.

Then, a lidded pot is brought forth. The lid is lifted and a square of tofu covered in a crab sauce is unveiled.

delicate and the combination of flavours worked to enhance the hamachi. The other starter we tried was a renowned favourite (pictured right) – large, plump Hokkaido scallops (hotate) served with nearby Otaru cherry blossom wood-smoked chunks of bacon, seared soya bean and bean puree. A unique and exquisite combination of flavours. I closed my eyes while eating it to savour the experience.

For the second course, we chose a delicate linguini with fresh Hokkaido crab. The subtle taste of chili was evident, but with Kim’s deft touch, it was by no means over-powering. Our second entree of grilled prawns served on soft white polenta, Okhotsk rind and braised beans was also brilliantly constructed.

For the main, I again opted for hamachi – this time

Ingredients (serves 4 people)4 Chicken thighs2 tsp Japanese cooking sakeVegetable oil Salt and pepper 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar

Teriyaki marinade2 garlic cloves, minced2 tsp shredded ginger4 tsp soy sauce 2 tsp Japanese cooking sake1 tsp Mirin2 tsp water1 tsp honey 1 tsp bonito fish stock powder

Method1. Puncture skin of chicken thigh, making plenty of holes. Pour sake on top and leave to rest. 2. Place all marinade ingredients into a large bowl and mix well. Add chicken thighs and marinate for 15 minutes.3. Heat a little vegetable oil in fry pan on medium heat. Place chicken thighs skin side down and season with salt and pepper to add flavour while it cooks. Reserve the marinade. 4. Once skin starts to golden, turn over and continue cooking over low to medium heat.5. Once chicken is cooked through, remove from pan and set aside.6. In the same pan, add remaining marinade sauce on a medium to high heat. Sauce will start to simmer quickly so add sugar immediately and stir until dissolved.7. Return chicken to pan with simmering marinade sauce. Coat chicken well and continue to cook for another 30 seconds to one minute. 8. Slice and serve with steamed rice and green salad.

pan-roasted – served with Niseko potato, negi, cabbage and saffron citronette in a balanced, tasteful and elegant ensemble. My partner predictably ordered Sekka's renowned slow-cooked Tokachi beef cheek, which was as good as he remembered from last year. Both dishes, we agreed, were excellent.

We finished the meal off with a refreshing scoop of pure mandarin sorbet and a hazelnut brittle with burnt-orange caramel sauce - a delightfully sweet end to an indulgent evening.

Prices at Sekka were fair, considering the quality ingredients, unique creations, and excellent service. Most dishes ranged between ¥2000-3000. For contact details, opening hours and directions, go to: www.powderlife.com/restaurants.

its place. More scallop and salmon, this time accompanied by tuna, snapper and prawn.

By now we were starting to feel content, but there were still three courses to come. The first was a piece of whitefish with sautéed Japanese greens and wild mushrooms. Then, a braised pork belly, tender and full of flavour. The belly was topped with a dab of hot Japanese mustard to cut the richness. Finally, a slice of azuki (small red bean) and chestnut cakes with a cup of Japanese tea. Feeling content we wandered off into the snow, knowing the next time we come we’ll be hurrying not too slowly, as we know what’s waiting.For more great reviews and a whole lot more about food, check out Kat and Kim's blog @ www.bigfoodsmallworld.blogspot.com. For contact details, opening hours and directions for Restaurant Yo, go to: www.powderlife.com/restaurants.

YAKI, griddling or pan frying, is a technique of cooking used widely in Japanese cuisine. Teriyaki, sukiyaki and yakitori are foods that fall under the yakimono or ‘grilled things’ category. What separates teriyaki is the sauce. Teri, translated as gloss, describes the sheen of the sauce made from the basic Japanese ingredients of soy, sake and mirin which is added to the dish in the final stages of cooking. Teriyaki chicken is a popular dish on Japanese restaurant menu’s around the world.

SOUP curry is yet another Hokkaido restaurant speciality. Unlike regular thick Japanese curry, the base of soup curry is thin, bringing out the flavours of the many spices in the soup stock and complementing the variety of ingredients such as vegetables, potatoes and meat.

A hip taste of class, warmth and space

More recipes, more restaurants at our website

www.powderlife.com/restaurants/


izumikyo

By Saoka Wakasugi

GROOMER Akio-san

name Akio Nagahataage 32 hometown Iwate Prefecture time in niseko? 7 yearsski/board? For now, snowboarder how long have you been skiing/boarding? Ski 8 years, board about 11 yearswhy did you come to niseko? It just happenedwhat did you do in summer? Make jibs what languages do you speak? Japanese, Tohoku dialect, fake Kansai dialecttrips overseas? USA, Canada, Korea where do you want to go next? Italy, Spainfavourite… colour Red brand Burton food Soup Curry restaurant Tsubara Tsubara curry soup restaurant bar I don't really go to bars onsen Yuki Chichibu ski run Tetsu Coursewhere else do you want to go skiing overseas? Park City (USA) what does niseko need? A McDonalds niseko secret? Gonta water (it comes from a bear statue)what’s your life philosophy? Easy come, easy go

LIFTIE Kon-chan

name Kana Konnoage 25 hometown Kanagawa time in niseko 2 weeksski/snowboard? Snowboardhow long have you been snowboarding? 8 yearswhy did you come to niseko? Powder snow!what do you do in summer? Worked in Furano as a part-time farmer what languages do you speak? Japanese... studying English at the moment trips to overseas? Yep, Hawaii where do you want to go next? Canada, Indiafavourite... colour Turquoise blue, deep blue brand 686, Burton and Salomon food Zangi (fried chicken) restaurant Melt in Niseko Village bar Black Diamond onsen Niseko Higashiyama Onsenwhich foreign ski resort do you want to go to? Whistler how long will you be in niseko? Until the end of March what is your life motto? Go to many places, meet lots of people and find out who I really am

LIFT PASS OFFICE Kumikko-chan

name Kumiko Ishiiage 33 hometown Tokyotime in niseko 3 yearsski/board? Boardhow long have you been skiing for? 10 yearswhy did you come to niseko? Because I decided I wanted to live in Niseko what languages do you speak? Japanesetrips overseas? New Zealand, Fiji, Singapore, Guamwhere do you want to go next? Prince Edward Islandfavourite... colour Green brand None food Curry restaurant Shokusai Hirafu bar Paddy McGinty’sonsen Yusenkaku and Alpen Hotelski run Strawberry Fieldshow long will you be in niseko? Forever :)where else in the world do you want to go skiing? Chisennupuri and Whistlerniseko secret? Toyokuni in Rankoshi is beautifulwhat’s your life philosophy? Be kind to others

Yakitori & Bar YosakuONE of Hirafu’s coolest new restaurants is yaki-tori joint Yosaku. Yakitori is basically skewered grilled chicken, but there are plenty of other meat and vegetable combinations, which can come cooked in either salt or a dark soy-type sauce. Owner Akihiro Kimura (second from right) came to Niseko four seasons ago to work as a carpenter. When he noticed the large basement space below the NOASC building was available he decided it would be a good place to make a restaurant/bar. Stepping down out of the snow in to Yosaku and smelling the strong smell of Yakitori is a truly fantastic Niseko/Japan experi-ence. Details at www.powderlife.com/restaurants.

THERE are three reasons why Shogun Sushi in Kutchan is one of the Niseko’s best sushi restaurants. One is the quality of the chef’s expertly selected fish. The second is the secret way in which he prepares his rice. And the third is owners Katsuhiko and Kazuko Sodekawa. They take great interest in every customer and delight in meeting foreign visitors and introducing them to Japan’s most famous cuisine. The restaurant is nearly 50 years old and the couple has been running it since 1983 when they took it over from Kazuko’s parents. If you want to enjoy an authentic Japanese sushi meal and experience the warmest of Japanese hospitality, Shogun Sushi is a must. For directions and details go to www.powderlife.com/restaurants.

Shogun Sushi

KOKOROYA owner Chizuko-san has always been fasci-nated with kimonos. One day, she saw a box filled with a kimono in the garbage and thought what a waste that such a beautiful thing should be thrown away. So she decided she would start using this traditional material to make modern clothes and accessories. She hopes to encourage people not to throw away old things that can still be of use to others. Chizuko-san opened Kokoroya in Kutchan four years ago and last year she also opened Kokoroya Hirafu in the Dragon Restaurant and Bar building, just below the traffic lights. One of the most popular items among foreigners is obi (kimono belts) for ornamental display. Every Sunday, Obi and Kimono are 10 per cent off (not inc. items on sale).

Kokoroya

people T meet the locals welcome irasshaimase T people

As soon as you walk in to a Japanese business, every staff member in sight will cry ‘irasshaimase!!’, meaning ‘welcome’. In each issue of Powderlife, we take a look behind the scenes of Niseko's great little local businesses – the origins of the owners, the motivations behind what they do, and most importantly, what makes their product or service so good. Here we bring you the unsung heroes of Niseko… irasshaimase!!

By Saoka Wakasugi


Japanese for powder peopleLesson 1: Top 10 Japanese words for beginnersSO you heard about Niseko’s legendary powder, booked the flights, threw the skis/board in a bag, and now you’re here… wishing you had taken a few Japanese lessons so you could say something to the person sitting next to you in the chairlift or say thank you to the kind person who helped you get on the right bus. A few words can go a long way, especially if you pick the right words. If you only have time to learn ten words, these are the words we recommend.

1. Sumimasen すみません I’m sorry, excuse me, thank youThis magic word brings forgiveness... and beer! Use it when you accidentally bump into someone in the queue for the lifts or inadvertently ski in front of them. It works well with a nod of the head and a guilty look on your face. ‘Sumimasen’ is also used to get someone’s attention and can be used to get another round of drinks at an izakaya.

2. Doumo どうも thank you, hi There are many ways to express gratitude in Japanese – ‘doumo’ is the simplest, with only two syllables, so why not start with that? When they hand over your goods at Seicomart or Lawson, smile, nod and say, ‘doumo’. The next step up from ‘doumo’ is ‘arigatou’ or ‘doumo arigatou’.

3. Douzo どうぞ here you are, go aheadWhen you’re handing your new friend the drink you’ve just bought them or motioning them to start eating the food that’s just been delivered to your table, say, ‘douzo’. If you arrive at the ticket gates at the same time as someone else, motion for them to go first and say, ‘douzo’. If someone does this for you, go ahead and say, ‘doumo’.

4. Ohayou おはよう good morningUse ‘ohayou’ to greet people before noon. Say it to the hotel staff, the bus driver, the ticket staff… and random strangers in the gondola queue if you’re feeling friendly. It’s good form to say it loudly and full of energy! Adding ‘gozaimasu’ makes it a bit more formal.

5. Hai はい yesUseful for answering easy questions and confirming orders. Are you a snowboarder? ‘Hai’. Table for two? ‘Hai’. ‘Hai’ is rather formal, try using ‘un’ when talking with friends – but stick to ‘hai’ if a police officer is asking you questions.

6. Onegaishimasu お願いします pleaseUse this when ordering or requesting something. ‘Biiru onegaishimasu’ means beer please. If you go to a restaurant and can’t read the menu, try pointing at things that look tasty and saying, ‘kore onegaishimasu’ (this please). ‘Kudasai’ also means please, but is a little bit less polite.

7. Kanpai かんぱい cheers!You deserve a drink after a hard day on the slopes! Before you start drinking raise your glass and say, ‘kanpai!’. Before eating, press your hands together in front of you and say, ‘itadakimasu’.

8. Oishii おいしい delicious, yummy, tastyAfter you’ve said ‘itadakimasu’ and started eating, the next think you’ll probably want to say is ‘oishii’. This is the most common word for describing food. Boys can also use ‘umai’.

9. Kawaii かわいい cute, nice, prettyIf you’re a female in a shop you can use this word to describe almost everything that you like. ‘Kawaii’ is also the perfect word to use to compliment people on anything from their hairstyle to their boots. Warning: guys can say this word to girls, but a guy saying it to another guy is a bit weird.

10. Saikou さいこう great, awesome, wicked How was the powder snow this morning? ‘Saikou!’ Do you like Niseko? ‘Niseko Saikou!’

Since this magazine can’t talk, your best bet is to find a Japanese person and ask them to say the words and repeat after them. Then buy them a beer :)

Keen to learn more?There are lots more of tdes's Japanese lessons at www.powderlife.com/japanese. And be sure to join a tdes Japanese lesson when you arrive in Niseko. Cost: ¥1000. For time and location details visit www.thedailyenglishshow.com

learning japanese T languagetravel guide T niseko survival guide

Walking on icy roads and footpaths:Niseko's footpaths and roads can be sometimes like an

ice skating rink – especially after a night-time freeze follows a daytime melt. Joggers or sneakers from home

just won't cut it, so it's a good idea to invest in a pair of snow boots with plenty of tread (gumboots will also do

the job, and keep your feet dry), or failing that a pair of snow cleats or spikes that you can clip onto your shoes

(which you can buy from any number of ski stores in town).Other tips we can give you are: for balance, don't walk

with hands in your pockets so you can brace yourself for a fall – wear gloves to keep your hands warm instead; take

smaller steps; and don't carry heavy loads – if you fall, throw goods in the air and protect yourself, not your goods. It should go without saying, but don't slide down slippery, steep sections of ice to show off!

Also, when crossing the road, factor in that the roads are icy and slippery and that it will take cars longer to stop for you.

Walking or parking under roofs:During your stay in Niseko, you may notice snow falling from roofs.

This may look impressive, but can be very dangerous – notice the thud when the load hits the ground. Niseko gets massive amounts of snow

during winter, and despite its cute fluffy appearance, it’s very heavy. Believe it or not, snow sliding from rooftops kills people in this part of the world, and can seriously damage cars.

Ski/boarding on roads and footpathsIt may seem fun and so much quicker and easier than walking, but skiing or

boarding home from the hill can be one of the silliest things you can do in Niseko. Because the roads don’t have as much snow on them, and generally a

Niseko Survival Guide By Matthew Thomas

CashJapan is still largely a cash society, and Niseko is no different. Some places accept credit cards but many smaller shops, businesses and accommodation houses don’t. For maximum convenience and to avoid missing out on that fantastic looking little restaurant or unique souvenir shop that you may not pass again, it is advised that you carry cash.

ATMsThere is no ATM that will accept international cards in Hirafu, Hanazono, Niseko Village or Annupuri. If you need to withdraw cash from an ATM, you will need to go to a post office in Kutchan Town, which is a 10-15 minute taxi or bus ride away. The post offices in Kutchan have ATMs with English instructions (there are also English-language international ATMs at most 7-Elevens). The main post office is on Eki Mae Dori (the main street), on the opposite side of Route 5 from the train station. Powderlife’s hot tip is to get cash out at the international ATM at the airport when you arrive at in Sapporo (New Chitose Airport). Go to level three and use the Citibank ATM which accepts many international cards.

Cards and networks accepted at post office ATMs are: Visa, Visa Electron, Plus, MasterCard, Maestro, Cirrus, American Express, Diners Club, JCB, China UnionPay. Please note, there may be restrictions on the different accounts you can access for different banks and networks, for example credit and cheque accounts on debit cards on the Cirrus/Maestro/Plus networks. If you're going to Kutchan solely to use the ATM, it might be a good idea to ask your accommodation provider to call the post office to check before you go. The main post office ATM is open weekdays 8.45am-7pm and weekends 9am-5pm. Public holidays it may be closed.

Credit cardsLift tickets, ski hire and ski lessons can all be paid for by credit card. Most large restaurants and some small ones also will accept them (check the Powderlife.com restaurant guide).

At your convenienceThere are two convenience stores in town for all your local shopping needs. The iconic Seicomart in the heart of Hirafu is arguably king, but Lawson, the blue shop just down the road towards Kutchan, is another option that offers smaller queues and a larger range of international products.

Kutchan has shopping coveredSeveral specialty stores in Kutchan may also come in handy when you wish to expand from the stock in Seicomart or Lawson. Best Denki stocks all your technical needs from memory sticks and external hard drives to heaters and fans. M-Pocket has imported groceries, specialising in imported alcohol. Homac shelves basically every household product known to man, while Max Value is your best option as far as big supermarket chains go. The ¥100 Shop stocks cheap groceries, stationery and more priced around – you guessed it – ¥100. There are no pharmacies or stationery stores in Hirafu, but several in Kutchan, such as the Tsuruha Drug. The Co-Op, next to Kutchan Station, is both a department store and supermarket.

For your information:The Niseko Grand Hirafu Welcome Centre at the main bus stop in Hirafu parking and the Hirafu Safety Information Centre next door to the Seicomart have a wide range of brochures and transport information and can also help with accommodation in case you've arrived without a booking.

Meanwhile, the Kutchan Tourist Information Centre, located on Eki-mae Dori opposite the Best Denki, provides an excellent English-speaking service for visitors. They can be contacted on 0136 22 1121.

lot of ice, your skis or board won’t react like they do on the mountain. So where on the hill you might be able to stop within a couple of metres before hitting that beginner skier who’s just veered wildly in front of you, on the road, instead of stopping you could very easily find yourself skidding underneath a bus that’s just pulled out in front of you. For the drivers, it's hard enough driving in the snowy, icy, white-out conditions without having to worry about dodging out of control skiers and boarders. Please, keep your riding on the hill!

Driving on icy roads:Niseko is well serviced by inter-resort buses, which are the safest, cheapest and easiest mode of transport in the area. These resort buses are free for mountain pass holders. There are also regular buses into Kutchan. But if you want to drive, make sure you drive to the conditions and always be in control. Icy, snowy, white-out conditions can be a nightmare to drive in. Every driver here will be able to tell frightening stories about completely losing control of their car on 'black ice'. For a detailed feature on how to drive safely in Niseko, refer to your copy of Powderlife Issue 13’s Niseko Survival Guide, or find it online at www.powderlife.com/_issues/powderlife13web.pdf.

Don't leave bars aloneIf you're going drinking, make sure you leave the bar with someone else and try not to walk home alone. Also make sure you rug up and stay warm. People have been known to fall asleep in the snow on the way home after going out drinking in Niseko. This season's case of a tourist going missing under these circumstances have reaffirmed these dangers, so please do the right thing by yourself, and your friends. T

Stay safe...

annupuri village

By studio tdes


Thanks to the almost daily powder top ups, Niseko usually has a very soft base and is a terrific place to learn to ski or snowboard – the inevitable falls are generally forgiving, as opposed to punishing, like you'll find on the rock-hard icy bases in many other resorts around the world. Meanwhile, for the advanced, the deep powder is now world famous in skiing circles.

This article has been written mainly for intermediates that are confident on the groomed runs and are ready to venture into the glorious off-piste. But there is something here for everyone – many beginners are likely to be intermediates by the end of their first week, and there may be a few little gems in here that even hardcore skiers and boarders may find handy for their Niseko deep powder experience. Pow pow!

PREPARATIONBefore the start of your season or holiday, it's a great

idea to work on your fitness and strength – your body will thank you later! Riding powder is without doubt a full-body workout, at the end of the day you'll feel like you've had a hard workout in the gym. The fitter you are, the more time you'll be able to spend on the mountain. Doing exercises to strengthen your legs and improve your fitness is one of the best ways to prevent injuries. Squats and cycling are great ideas. For a detailed snow-training regime go to www.powderlife.com/magazine/last-word-on-health/preparation.

GEARSkis/board Skiers, the fatter your skis, the easier you'll find skiing in powder, over 90cm under foot is a good guide. For boarders, the longer the board and narrower the tail, the easier it is to keep the nose up and the less rear leg burn. Look for a board with some reverse camber (rocker) to help it float. Also, set your bindings back as far as possible.

Powder skirts A matching jacket and pants combo with a powder skirt that clips together will stop snow getting in. Also handy is a sleeve skirt, which stops powder getting in to your sleeves and gloves.Face mask You may look like Hannibal Lecter but a good face mask will stop those cold, Siberian winds from freezing your cheeks.Helmet You can be shredding through powder at top speed then rip a turn only to see nothing but fluffy powder. This is when trees come out of nowhere, and they don't move – it's best wear a helmet. These days snow helmets look pretty cool and are super warm.

HOW TO SKI/BOARD POWDERStart out slow Firstly, test out the powder just off the groomers to get a feel for it, before venturing further out off-piste into the really deep stuff where you could get stuck.Lean back: Without putting yourself off-balance, you should lean back slightly to ensure your nose/tips are kept out of the powder. Feel the flow: When riding fresh powder as a beginner, it can be best to not perform too many fast, drastic turns. Just go with the flow, stay balanced and enjoy some smooth, slow, drawn-out turns.Follow those tracks: If you hit a flat patch, to save yourself having to push, skate or hike your way out, sometimes it can be a good idea to ride in someone's tracks. Avoid falling over: This may seem abundantly obvious, but you'll learn this over time because it's just so darn hard to get back up!

Now you know the theory, it’s time to get over here and practice. But be warned… you’re about to inherit a lifelong powder addiction that has no known cure. Welcome to Niseko! T

Niseko powder 101

niseko powder guide T how to

THERE are basically three levels of skiers and snowboarders – beginners, intermediates and advanced – and the super-soft, pillowy powder that covers the mountains of Niseko literally provides the ultimate skiing conditions for all three.

By Matthew Thomas

Japan - a powder paradise ski destinationplus a whole lot moreJapan National Tourism Organization (JNTO)is the best place for travel-related informationon Japan. So if you are planning a trip, visit usat www.jnto.go.jp to contact your local JNTOoffice.We have all you need to know and youcan request a FREE information pack.

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www.jnto.go.jp

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phone directory T directory

A-Bu-Cha 阿武茶22 5620 [MAP C2]

Grandpapa グランパパ23 2244 [MAP B3]

Graubunden グラウビュンデン23 3371 [MAP E4]

Hirafu Fleur 創作料理ヒラフール23 3306 [MAP E1]

Mina Mina ミナミナ23 4771 [MAP D2]

Mokoraya もこらや090 8279 0598 [MAP F3]

Mozart モーツァルト090 2699 6387 [MAP E4]

Nami Chan Chi 波ちゃん家21 2258 [Kutchan]

Nathan’s Hotdogs ネイサンズ　ホットドッグ21 3121 [MAP E3]

Niseko Pizza ニセコ　ピザ21 6888 [MAP D2]

Niseko Gourmet ニセコグルメ 080 5584 1313

Paddy McGintys パディーマッギンティーズ 55 8020 [MAP C2]

Payoka パヨカ22 0117 [MAP E1]

Piccolo House ピッコロハウス（カフェ＆バー）23 0311 [MAP E2]

Shokusai Hirafu 食彩　比羅夫22 1105 [MAP C1]

Shunsai 旬彩 23 1882 [Kutchan]

Slalom スラローム22 1105 [MAP C1]

Spur Chinese Restaurant シュプール（中華レストラン）22 1105 [MAP C1]

Tsubara Tsubara つばらつばら 23 1116 [MAP E4]

Yawaraya やわらや23 3810 [MAP C3]

Youtei Yakiniku 焼肉ようてい22 0109 [MAP E1]

Yuki Bar and Café 雪場カフェ22 0234 [MAP D2]

Yummy’s ヤミーズ21 2239 [MAP C3]

Ichimura Soba蕎麦屋　いちむら23 0603 [MAP F3]

if… Café カフェ　イフ22 4770 [MAP B3]

Jam Café Bar ジャム（カフェバー）23 0700 [MAP D2]

Japanese Kitchen Bouken 冒険家族22 3759

Java Bar and Café ジャバ　バー＆カフェ090 2871 6781 [MAP D3]

Kakashi かかし23 2622 [MAP D2]

Blo Blo Bar ブロー　ブロー　バー22-12-69 [MAP D1]

Jyuu Okonomiyaki じゅう44 2336 [Higashiyama]

B’s Café and Bar ビーズ　カフェ＆バー22 1480 [MAP D1]

Bouken Kazoku 冒険家族22 3759

Chidori 千鳥23 2831 [MAP F4]

Curry Goya カレー小屋23 3688 [MAP F4]

Barunba バルンバ090 8907 9399 [MAP B2]

Restaurants, cafes and eateries

Services

JoJo’s Café and Bar ジョジョズ（カフェ＆バー）23 2093 [MAP E3] A 13 cm Original Burger, po-tato gnocchi and fries from local potatoes. Generous portions of food

Kamimura カミムラ21 2288 [MAP D2]Niseko’s premier dining experience. A mix of Japanese seasonal cuisine, blended with classic French technique.

Maru まる22 5020 [MAP E3]Traditional Japanese ‘donburi’ restaurant. 11:30am-2pm/5-11pm. Pick up available. Reservation required

SpecialitiesButa don ¥850Tempura Set ¥1350Sashimi ¥1350Tendon ¥950

Raku Izakaya 楽　居酒屋22 6638 [MAP C3]

Kila 姫羅070 6646 4715 [MAP C2]

Rin Izakaya りん　居酒屋22 1444 [MAP B3]

Dragon Wine and Food Bar ドラゴン　ワイン＆バー21 7700 [MAP B2]

Fujizushi Sushi ふじ鮨23 2661 [MAP B3]

Gentem Café 玄天カフェ23 3154 [MAP B1] Komekichi Onigiri Café

米吉（おにぎりかふぇ）22 1105 [MAP F1]

Kumagoro くまごろう23 3381 [MAP B3]

Landmark Deli くまごろう23 4285 [MAP E2]

Loaf Lounge ローフラウンジ22 1022 [Kutchan]

Paul’s Cafe and Barポールズカフェーアンドバー 090 9083 6764 [MAP C3]Specialising in Belgian beer and rotisserie chicken. More than 30 beers on tap or in bottles. Belgian Waffles.

Wild Bill’s ワイルドビルズ22 5652 [MAP D2]Come for dinner, stay for drinks. Hirafu’s most popular bar and Tex-Mex cuisine restaurant. See you there!

Black Diamond Lodge Restaurantブラックダイモンドロッジレストラン0136 44 1144 [Higashiyama]Just 300m ski or bus from the Hilton Niseko Villlage. Check out or great Western and Japanese menu.

Menu SelectionsSalmon pizza 1300Venison Hamburg 1250Pasta 1000~Buffalo wings 600

Bang Bangバンバン22 4292 [MAP C1]Owner Masanobu Saito chooses the best ingredients in Japan. One of Hirafu’s most popular izakayas.

Downtown ダウンタウン23 3354 [MAP B3]

Kame 亀 22 0339 [MAP E3]

Rosso Rosso ロッソロッソ21 7100 [MAP B3]Casual steak house with a contemporary flavour. Juicy, tender wagyu and Kobe beef, variety of imported wines.

Senchou 1 Izakaya 船長（居酒屋）22 2001 [MAP B3]

Senchou 2 Seafood Izakaya 海山屋　（海鮮居酒屋）22 5454 [MAP C2]

Hana Jizoh Bakery 花地蔵23 0331 [MAP F4]Amazing sweet and savoury breads and pastries. Must try! Get the free village shuttle to bus stop 27.

EN in-house fine dining 宴　インハウス　ファイン　ダイニング55 8100 [MAP D3]Relax while our in-house chef does all the work. Your fine dining solutions.“

Sekka Dining セッカダイニング21 5022 [MAP B2]Experience the taste of Hok-kaido in style at Sekka Dining. International fusion cuisine using Hokkaido ingredients.

Sekka Deli Cafe セッカデリカフェ 21 3088 [MAP B2]House-made produce using local ingredients, cheeses, meats, wines. Breakfast to dinner, dine in or take away.

Area code 0136 omitted from contact numbers below. Country code for Japan is 81.

Niseko Photographyニセコフォトグラフィー22 5764 [MAP D2]

Boot Solutionsブートソルションズ221-025 [MAP D2]

Skybus スカイバス22 2108 [MAP D2]Sapporo office 011 788 4994

Niseko Physio ニセコフィジオ 22 0399 [MAP B2] Your English speaking sports injury centre in Hirafu. Aus-tralian trained winter sports physiotherapists.

Call for an appointment or just drop in. Ph. 0136 22 0399

Sekka Deli セッカデリ21 3088 [MAP B2]

Sekka Landmark Deli セッカランドマーク23 4285 [MAP E2]

Sekka Teca Wine Shop セッカテカワインショプ21 3088 [MAP B2]

Niseko Wine Supply ニセコウアインサプライ090 6875 5931 [MAP XX]

Seicomart Hirafuセイコマート23-3271 [MAP C2]

Lawson Hirafuローソン23-1230 [MAP C2]

M-Pocket Kutchan M-ポケット22-1070 [MAP Kutchan F7]

Delis, food outlets

Live room availability, book your accommodation now!

www.powderlife.com/niseko-accommodation/

Niseko Massage ニセコマサージ22 0399 [MAP B2] Professional Sports and Relaxation Massage in Five Star Luxury. Highly qualified massage therapists

Call for an appointment or just drop in. [email protected]

Black Diamond Tours ブラック　ダイアモンド　ツアー 090-2054-8687 Let us privately guide you through Hokkaido’s best powder stashes and out of the way places.

Niseko RusutsuSapporo HokkaidoBackcountry Black Diamond Tours

www.powderlife.com global edition 2009 ISSUE 18 powderlife 29

AIRPORTNew Chitose Airport 0123 23 0111www.new-chitose-airport.jp/language/englishNew Chitose was opened in 1991 and became Japan’s first 24-hour airport in 1994. It services Sapporo and Niseko with direct international flights from various Asian cities and Australia. The Tokyo to Chitose route is the busiest domestic route in the world. It is the largest airport in Japan by land mass.

Getting From New Chitose To NisekoOn arrival at Chitose international airport, visitors not on a full travel package have a few options to complete this last leg of their journey to Niseko and back. Although the trip is only 110kms, due to icy roads and no direct train route, it takes two to three hours.

BUSThe bus is the most convenient and commonly used form of transport from the airport. Buses depart about every 30 minutes from the airport to Niseko. They take about three hours, including a rest stop halfway and a dropoff at Rusutsu. ¥2,300 – one way and ¥3,850 for a round trip. The buses disembark at six designated bus stops within the greater Niseko United Resort. You will find two different points to get off at each of the main ski areas. Whiteliner Buseswww.whitelinerbuses.com.........011-242-2040Chuo Buseswww.chuo-bus.co.jp/kikan/ski...011-231-0500Donan buseswww.donanbus.co.jp/ski............0123-46-5701Hokkaido Resort Linerwww.access-n.jp/ski_info.html..011-219-4411

DOOR TO DOOR TRANSFERSkybus offers a door to door transfer service from the airport to Niseko or Sapporo. Chitose to Niseko from ¥9000 return per person, or better deals for private shuttle transfers – ¥30,000 one way for up to 5 passengers, ¥40,000 one way for up to 9 passengers, or ¥50,000 one way for up to 14 passengers. Go to www.skybus-jp.com/index.html

CAR RENTALIf you are comfortable driving in the snow, renting can be convenient as it allows you to take a trip to Kutchan to stock up the fridge before returning the car. One way hire from Chitose to Hirafu is about ¥7,000 for six – 24 hours. Nippon Rentacar, Mazda and Orix have offices in the Niseko area. If you want a car only in Niseko, you can contact Black Diamond Lodge in Higashiyama.

Mazda Rent a Car : Chitose airport 0123-45-8756, Niseko 011-231-0118 (drop off and pick up in Niseko only available on weekdays)Nippon Rent a Car : Chitose airport 0123-26-0919, Niseko 0136-43-2929Orix Rent a Car : Chitose airport 0123-22-0543, Izumikyo (Hirafu) 0134-25-0543, Black Diamond Lodge : 0136-44-1144

TAXIA standard taxi from Chitose to Hirafu will cost about ¥30,000, but you may not fit all your gear in it. Prai Taxi charges ¥20,000 for a small taxi (3-4 people) or ¥33,000 for a jumbo (8-10 people). Call 011 207 5166 or www.prai.co.jp.

TRAINThis is the most scenic way to get to Niseko. Unfortunately there is no direct train from Chitose to Kutchan station (the closest major station). All trains run through Sapporo and Otaru. The journey takes about three hours and the cost is about ¥2,600 for an unreserved seat. If you want a reserved seat, you can ask at JR information desk, B1 Chitose airport. www2.jrhokkaido.co.jp/global/index.html

The train schedules are subject to change so it is best to call the numbers below or visit: www.japanrail.com.Airport.........................................0123-45-7011

Sapporo.......................................011-222-7111Otaru...........................................0134-22-0771Kutchan station..........................0136-22-1310Niseko station.............................0135-44-2104

INTER-RESORT TRANSPORTA shuttle bus connects the Grand Hirafu, Higashiyama and Annupuri ski areas. There is a private company bus which costs ¥500 and a free shuttle bus which is included in your all mountain pass. See the timetable on the course map for more information. If you have a 12-point ticket, one point per trip is needed. Others need ¥500 for adult and ¥300 for child per ride.

Kutchan Night BusA free bus runs from Grand Hirafu ski area to Kutchan station every night. Step out from Hirafu village and enjoy shopping, eating, and drinking in Kutchan. TaxisKutchan hire...............................0136 22 1212Misora hire.................................0136 22 1171Niseko hire.................................0136 44 2635

AIRLINESANA.............................................0120 029 222British Airways............................03 3570 8657Cathay Pacific.............................03 5159 1700China Airlines.............................03 5520 0333JAL...............................................0120 255 971Korean Air...................................0088 21 2001Qantas.........................................0120 207 020Singapore Airlines......................03 3213 1174Thai Airways...............................03 3503 3311United Airlines............................0120 114 466

BANKINGYes, we all know Hirafu needs an international ATM! Until then, use the post office in Kutchan open 8.45am to 7pm on weekdays, 9am to 5pm on weekends and holidays. You can also withdraw from the 24-hour Citibank ATM at 3F Chitose airport and the 7-Eleven near Kutchan station. Most of the cards with Cirrus and PLUS marks are accepted at these places, but round cornered cards are not.

CREDIT CARDSJapan is still a predominantly cash society. Most small bars and restaurants in Niseko do not accept credit cards, but larger hotels, restaurants and hotels often do.American Express.......................0120 020 120MasterCard..................................03 5728 5200

Visa Card...................................00531 44 0022

CURRENCYYou can exchange your money into Yen at the bank, post office, and most inbound travel operators. Please bring your passport – it may be more convenient to change with your hotel. You can also exchange USD travellers cheques at banks or at Kutchan post office.

DRIVING When driving on icy roads the number one thing to remember is to drive slowly. Make sure the windscreen and back and side windows are thoroughly de-iced on the outside and de-steamed on the inside before setting off – don’t simply clear a ‘porthole’ to look through. Maintain at least a five-second gap between you and the vehicle in front. Use a high gear to avoid wheel spin, but take care not to let your speed creep up. Brake gently to avoid locking the wheels. Never brake if the vehicle skids, instead, ease off the accelerator and steer slightly into the direction of the skid until you gain control.

ELECTRICITYStandard voltage is 100v AC. You can use many higher watt items without a problem but higher wattage devices such as hair dryers may not run on full power. Plugs are the flat two blades type. Many recent buildings have 240v with Australian shaped plugs.

EARTHQUAKES In the event of an earthquake, stay out of elevators,

stand in a door frame and watch for falling objects. The safest places are in large open areas such as parking lots of ski areas, schools, parks etc. Your accommodation is likely to have an emergency earthquake pack.

EMERGENCIESPolice .........................................................110Ambulance and Fire..................................119Emergency Interpretation.........03-5285-8185Japan English Helpline (nationwide emergency assistance)...............0570-000-911

ETIQUETTEJapan is perhaps the most courteous country in the world. Say excuse me (sumimasen) and thank you (arrigato) regularly. Do not eat while walking, or wear your shoes on tatami mats or in most indoor residences. A bow can be used to say thank you, sorry, hello, goodbye and excuse me. It is impolite not to return a bow. The deeper the bow, the more polite it becomes.

EATINGAt most casual dining Japanese restaurants (Izakaya) meals are ordered for the table and shared. You will often receive a small snack with your first drink which may or may not be billed. Rest your chopsticks across the top of the bowl or plate – never leave them sticking out of the rice!

DRINKINGIt is tradition in Japan to pour from a bottle into your guest’s small glass regularly. Kampai is the Japanese word for cheers – use it readily! Also please remember to stay well behaved when under the influence. Poor behaviour by drunken Australians in Niseko has received national media attention in Japan. Remember you are an ambassador for your country at all times while you are abroad.

TIPPINGAlthough tipping is not generally done in Japan, some restaurants and bars will include a service fee for groups.

GARBAGE Hokkaido has some of the strictest garbage separation rules in the world. Please try to follow them, follow the signs on the bins to the letter.

ONSEN (HOT SPRING BATH)Buy a ticket, strip down – no swim suits allowed, keep your clothes in a basket, your valuables in a locker. Take a little towel only into the onsen with you, wash and scrub your body well before you go in to the bath. You can fill your towel with cold water before you enter the onsen. Do not put your towel into the onsen water – leave it on your head and squeeze the cold water out when you get too hot (it’s best not to bring drinks into the onsen). After bathing rinse off under the shower. Finally dry your body well before you walk back into the changing room.

MEDICAL SERVICESAt present there is no doctor in Hirafu and Niseko Physio is the only medical service available in walking distance of the slopes. For fractures or non musculo-skeletal cases you will need to go into Kutchan. If you can’t speak Japanese you will need to bring a translator Niseko PhysioLocated on the second floor of Australia House, staffed with Australian physiotherapy graduates from North Sydney Orthopaedic and Sports Medicine Centre (Australia’s leading knee clinic). Primary care also available. Sports injuries, back and neck pain, braces and taping. Appointments preferred but not essential. www.NisekoPhysio.com Telephone 0136 22 0399.Kutchan Kousei HospitalThe major hospital servicing the area is located 4 blocks from the main intersection of Kutchan. They have an X-ray, a slightly ageing MRI and medical dispensary. No appointment necessary, orthopaedics cases taken in the morning only. It will take you most of the day. Address: North 4 East 1-2, Kutchan-cho Tel: 0136-22-1141Ueda Orthopedic Clinic

A privately run orthopaedic clinic providing more time efficient service than the hospital. X-ray, medical dispensary. 1-4, South 3-jo West 3, Kutchan 0136-22-1386

INTERNETMost accommodation in Niseko will have somew form of internet access. Downtown Café has an internet terminal and there are wireless hotspots across town. Try A-Bu-Cha, Downtown Café, Grandpapa, Java Bar and Curry Goya.

MOBILE PHONES3G phones only will work in Japan. You can hire a phone from IXSM travel 0136 21 5855 or Go Mobile 03 4496 4344. For longer term stays the three big carriers have stores in Kutchan:au................................................0136-21-5616Soft Bank....................................0136-21-2588NTT DoCoMo...............................0136-21-6868

TELECOMMUNICATIONSDomestic CallsGreen and grey public phones take coins or pre paid telephone cards, available from convenience stores or at some phone card dispensers in some booths. Local calls don’t require the “0136”, unless made from a mobile phone.Directory AssistanceDial 104 (toll call) and then ask for an English speaker. You must know the location and name to get a number.International CallsInternational direct dial can be made using any of the following prefixes, 001 (KDDI), 0041 (ITJ) and 0061 (IDC). They will cost you.

Calling CardsBrastelThe most popular international calling card service is available in Niseko. Known for its flat 24 hour rates as low ¥6 per minute to Australia from any type of phone using a non-toll free access number. Brastel has excellent customer service available in over 20 languages and the card is available at several locations in Hirafu and can be recharged at IXSM travel or by your credit card. New subscribers get five free minutes. Toll-free: 0120 659 534. www.brastel.com

Kazak Rates from ¥20 for one minute to Australia. The kazak card is the highest selling card in the Niseko area. Kazak card is available from your hotel front desk, Piz Gloria convenience store and from most inbound tour operators. 0123 36 4000

POST OFFICES Look for the red “T” symbol. Stamps and the post office box are at Piz Gloria convenience store. For other services you will need to go to the post office in Kutchan.

TOURIST INFORMATIONKutchan Tourism Information centreLocated on Eki-mae Dori opposite Best Denki, the newly opened tourist information centre provides an excellent English speaking service for visitors. They dispense brochures and can help you book accommodation. ph: 0136 22 1121

The Niseko Grand Hirafu Welcome CentreAt the main bus stop in Hirafu parking lot the Welcome Centre has a wide range of brochures and transport information. They can also help with booking accommodation if you’ve arrived without a booking – you risk taker you. 0136 22 0109.

WALKING ON ICY ROADSAbout 1/3 of all injuries in Hirafu are caused by people falling on the street. Wear shoes with good grip, buy and attach rubber sole covers with metal studs. Take small steps, walk slowly and never run, keep both hands out of your pockets and free for balance. Walking with two ski stocks is a great idea and protect yourself instead of the objects being carried.

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Powderlife Magazine Issue no.18 Global Edition 09