RROBERTOGROUP LIMITED

PITTI UOMO SS18

The central trend of this season’s Pitti Uomo was of whites and off-whites with very bright accents – particularly in red, turquoise, deep sea green and yellow. The continued trend for grid checks was evident this season in large-scale checks, textured checks and an emerging trend in pastel Bombay checks. Conversational designs in both woven and print tended towards seaside themes – with shellfish, sea creatures, ice creams and retro seaside resort motifs. A secondary trend was for tropical fruits and tropical foliage. Silks tended to be blended with cotton or linen for a softer, Mediterranean summer look across both print and woven men’s accessories. Standard ties were much more visible this season, at the expense of bows and pocket squares becoming slightly less prevalent. This season’s show had a really upbeat, positive, summery vibe!

PITTI UOMO SS18

RROBERTOGROUP LIMITED

Tie Overview -Blade widths essentially unchanged, in the range 6-8cm, with 7cm most popular

-Lots of silk warps with cotton, linen or blended wefts for a ‘softer’ look

-Noil, Oxford, Natte textures, especially for plains and checks

-Softer feel weaves and textures for most wovens

-Checks had a strong presence again, in all kinds of scales and structures

-Some prints on textured bases and foulard, Paisley and baroque overprints onto woven designs

-However, generally prints are showing a return to printing on classic, cleaner silk bases

-Some bold, wide block stripes and candy stripes (often on slub or seersucker) but otherwise stripes less in evidence than previous years

-Seaside and tropical motifs, both wovens and especially prints, on clean base fabrics, in quite small repeats

-Retro 70s prints, especially Paisleys and medium-scale geometrics, now emerging

speckled /checks

ombre

wide stripes retro in variousstyles

no interlining

seaside motifs

checks

PITTI UOMO SS18

RROBERTOGROUP LIMITED

Tie Quirks-A few stands were showing ‘deconstructed’ ties, with no interlining or very short interlining

-Some really unusual combinations of denim and tropical (darker tone-on-tone foliage prints)

-Dip-dye and ombré in evidence in men’s knits – and may re-emerge into ties..

-Juxtaposition of contrasting designs on same piece

-Brands to Watch: -Eton - see for trend/print direction

-Eredi Chiarini - see for classic woven ties in pastel shades and deconstructed ties

-Silvio Fiorello - see for innovative and refreshing colours

-Fiorio - see for classic woven ties and conversational prints

-Fox Haus - see for multicoloured stripes, gingham checks, geometrical textures,vibrant flowers

-Franco Bassi - see for small foulards, micro-geos, medallions and paisleys

Ties with no interlining - linen (left) knitted tie (right)

Fiorio textured checks

wide/textured stripes

retro-style foulards

RROBERTOGROUP LIMITED

Bow-ties at Pitti, this season, were in various sizes with ditsy conversational motifs - in print and woven - being the popular style for SS18.

Key look - was the classic shape, which looked great in textured/slubby linen wovens, with an overprint of foulards or all-over paisleys.

Prints Printed bows are always key, and this season retro bows were all around the show - featuring mini-spaced geometrics as well as large medallion sized retro shapes - (Brand To Watch:Franco Bassi + Marzullo).

‘Fun-in-the-sun’ motifs take over conversationals along with deep sea creatures.Stand-out motifs included ditsy crabs, octopus(Paul Smith), sailboats, ice-creams (Eton),watermelon and dolphins.

Bright spots - (Brand To Watch: FeFe)

Bombay checks started to emerge followinga psychotropical feel and coloured with brightaccents, and usually in lightweight cotton -(Brand To Watch: Eton).

Packaging - FeFe boxes were very well presented featuring a sneak preview of bow.

Bow-Tie Overview

PITTI UOMO SS18

RROBERTOGROUP LIMITED

- Conversational ‘seaside’ prints stole the show – both in more photographic prints and in hand-drawn repeats- Lightweight silk twill and cotton bases dominated – with some pin stripe bases overprinted with motifs- Nautical stripes and deck chair stripes continued the seaside theme (Brands to watch: Harmont & Blaine, Z Zegna)- Pocket squares were generally all borderless- Designers are experimenting with digital printing – shown in some huge, abstract overlay geometrical designs (see below left)- Psychotropical collages and juxtapositions of motifs, creating striking, unique placement prints- Summer motifs included seaside themes (crab, ice cream, beach hut) and tropical fruit (banana, watermelon) -see below right- Big medallion / neats - bright colourways and navy/white were popular among brands

Pocket Square Overview

PITTI UOMO SS18

19-3

921

TPX

19-3

925

TPX

18-4

434

TPX

17-4

139

TPX

14-4

317

TPX

15-1

516

TPX

12-1

010

TPX

17-1

503

TPX

14-4

103

TPX

13-0

907

TPX

19-4

053

TPX

18-0

430

TPX

15-0

953

TPX

11-0

617

TPX

12-0

313

TPX

13-5

313

TPX

12-5

303

TPX

12-0

720

TPX

11-0

601

TPX

15-1

160

TPX

17-1

140

TPX

18-1

661

TPX

17-5

126

TPX

17-4

540

TPX

13-0

850

TPX

11-0

701

TPX

17-1

212

TPX

CO

LOUR

OF

THE

SEA

SON

CORE COLOURS

FASHION COLOURS

ACCENT COLOURS

RROBERTOGROUP LIMITED

SEASON’S PALETTE

PITTI UOMO SS18

*for further images on Pitti Uomo SS18 images please see our pinterest board -https://uk.pinterest.com/robertogrpbg/ss18-pitti-images/