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Picnic with the Penan 2011! 1

Welcome to the Penan Peace ParkWelcome to the Penan villages of Long Kerong, Long Sait, Long Sepigen, Long Kepang and Long Lamam. This brochure will provide you with some information about the culture of the Penan people and how to prepare for your visit to their forest.

Due the isolation of the area, this is not a last minute trip option. Advance notice is required to contact the villages and make the necessary arrangements.

Introduction to Picnic with the PenanPicnic with the Penan is a unique travel option for adventurous tourists through some of the last intact forest in Borneo and guided by the island’s only traditionally nomadic indigenous people, the Penan.

While many visitors to Borneo take in a longhouse visit, tasting traditional Iban or Kenyah hospitality, very few have the opportunity to meet the oldest and possibly most fascinating tribal group on the island, the Penan. Unlike these other peoples, whose history was as settled farmers, Penan ancestry stretches far back to when Borneo was covered in wild jungle, flush with wildlife and they were the island’s nomadic hunter-gatherers. As a peaceful people, living deep in the remotest reaches of the jungle, they developed a unique culture and a specialized, instinctive knowledge of Borneo’s animal and plant life. Today, they are still Borneo’s jungle experts and have fascinating knowledge and jungle survival skills to share with interested and adventurous visitors. Picnic with the Penan is sustainably-managed and community-run, offering intrepid visitors the chance to trek though some of Borneo’s last untouched forest, learn about Penan culture, and see the jungle through Penan eyes.

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2! Picnic with the Penan

The Penan; History and CultureThe Penan people of Sarawak have a lineage which dates back several thousand years, far before the existence of any country named Malaysia, when Borneo was covered in thick, dense jungle. Until as recently as the 1950s, the Penan lived a nomadic, egalitarian existence in the forest, with groups of families erecting temporary homes from forest materials, then moving to another location when they had exhausted food in the area. The homes were erected quickly and might be occupied for several weeks or a few days. Skilled hunters, their meals included a mix of animals from the forest; monkey, mouse deer, civets; killed by the poison dart of a blowpipe or caught in a trap. They also caught fish, using plant toxins, which, when placed in the water, caused the fish to suffocate and float to the surface. The prized hunt was then, and is still Babui, wild boar, but when the hunting was poor, the Penan could always rely on their staple forest food, Uvut, better known as Sago, from the spiky Sago palm tree. From another unfriendly looking tree, a spindly palm varient, the Penan obtained rattan, from which they made exquisite baskets, mats and bangles; beautiful handicraft which is still practiced today.

The Penan’s traverse through the forest was wide, but their direction was not chosen at random. A combination of signs, some based on their knowledge of animals, some on their animistic spiritual beliefs and some simply forest messages left by other Penan, guided their way. For the nomadic Penan, the eagle was to be revered as a god and they took decisions based on the movement of birds. For instance, before starting on a long journey, the Penan of the Ubong river would watch for a white-headed hawk flying from right to left and listen for the call of the crested rain bird and the barking deer. Whatever may be said today, in our scientific era about such beliefs, they infused the natural world with a special significance for the Penan and fostered a strong sense of belonging to the forest. In this spirit, a basic tenet of nomadic Penan society was to take only what was needed, not more and to share all things equally. It is said that at this time, there was no word in the Penan language for thankyou. Thankyou would have been redundant as sharing was an obligation and people were always entitled to whatever they received.

Now though, there is a word for thankyou, ‘Jian Kenin’, meaning 'Good heart', The word is suggestive of the changes which have transformed the nomadic Penan into those of today's society. For though they have occupied the most inaccessible areas of Borneo, the Penan have not been immune to social, political and geographical changes in the region. The movements of other tribes, such as the Iban, the Kelabit and the Kenyah and arrival of Chinese traders inevitably led to both conflict and cultural blending. In 1841 the British explorer James Brooke came to Sarawak to establish trade and in so doing, began a family dynasty known as the White Rajahs of Sarawak. During this period also, the Penan acquired British rifles, nets, cloth, salt, tobacco, ammunition, cooking pots and steel. In exchange, the Penan provided wild boar fat, rattan, mats, baskets, hornbill ivory, camphor, medicinal woods, bezoar stones, damar and resins. It would seem that this arrangement was mutually beneficial as the British had no ambition to venture into Penan areas and fair, regulated trading provided both with advantages which the other society could offer. On the other hand, Penan traditional beliefs were eroded by visits from Christian missionaries, causing an inevitable weakening of their spiritual connection with the forest. Christianity is now the dominant faith amongst the Penan. It was during the time of the British that the tebukeu was invented - not having a calendar, the Penan devised a means of marking the days until the next trading day - a rope with a series of knots, one of which would be untied each day. When the final knot was untied, trading day with the British had arrived. This arrangement was unilaterally broken by the Sarawak government after the departure of the British and federation of Malaysia in 1963, marking another era of change for the Penan.

The years since Federation have brought modernisation to the Penan, but also great conflict. Federation having granted the Sarawak government complete control over all matters relating to Sarawak forest resources, governmental leaders were not content to leave the Penan relatively undisturbed in the forest. Instead, they pursued a policy of Development and Settlement, building longhouses and promising schools and clinics if the Penan would leave the forest. At the same time, the they insisted that the Penan could have no traditional native title claim to customary lands unless they settled down and became farmers, despite the fact that the Penan have no agricultural tradition. These tactics, along with christian missionary encouragement, were largely successful, with large numbers of Penan moving to government-built longhouses . Many found

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though, that promises of an improved lifestyle were not fulfilled. Instead, they could not find sufficient food through farming and hunting around the settlements and rates of malnutrition dramatically increased. There was also a sharp increase in the incidence of parasitic infections and other illnesses; a predictable outcome when a traditionally nomadic people are compelled to live together in longhouses lacking proper sanitation. No longer able to access forest medicines and with limited medical services, these Penan were helpless to ward off illnesses which they had never suffered from before. The government did take some action, starting a monthly flying doctor service and promising clinics though these were insufficient.

Certainly, when government services eventuate, they are welcomed by Penan communities, but not their high price, the rampant logging of Penan ancestral lands - area which their forefathers once traversed and which they still know intimately. For, in the use of their powers, the Sarawak government has shown scant regard for the Penan's continued reliance on the forest and their close connection with it. Penan who refused to settle found their rivers muddied by logging, burial sites destroyed and themselves unable to find food as the wild game in the forest was driven away, and the Sago palms and fruit trees removed. Their pleas ignored, the Penan were compelled to resort to other means of arresting the logging, and in 1987, the first groups of Penan began began blockading logging roads. These blockades merely consisted of trees and leaves cut across roads, with large groups of Penan gathered from far and wide. These were peaceful and powerfully symbolic actions which drew worldwide attention. Most shocking to the international community was the ruthless manner in which the government and logging companies dismantled the blockades, with riot police and soldiers, tear gas and bulldozers. Many Penan were arrested and injured, several killed. Consequently, throughout the late 1980s and 1990s, the Malaysian government found itself the object of criticism from European governments and notable public personalities, such as HRH Prince Charles and American politician and environmentalist, Al Gore. Their response was to send special envoys to Europe and initiate ‘anti-propaganda’ media campaigns, but the logging continued apace. It has been estimated that at least 70% of Sarawak's primary forest has been licensed for logging and in some places there have been two or three logging passes in 25 years. This has caused the extinction of tree and animal species and countless medicinal plants. The damage has not only been environmental, however, it has also caused conflict within communities, between those who would be willing to accept money from logging companies, and those who would not. More than one community has been divided by this issue and many communities forced to move because the forest in their area has been removed. For the Penan it is a fraught decision - as they witness the destruction of the forest and its replacement with oil palm, many foresee a time when they may not be able to rely on traditional skills for their livelihood. Yet, most are only equipped for low-skilled labour work in the industrial cash economy. With the government only paying for Penan children to attend primary school, many Penan must wonder how they will afford to give their children further education and a decent future.

Despite these ongoing issues, you will find the Penan of the Upper Baram to be generally happy, friendly, generous and hospitable people who value community and are curious about outsiders. Culturally, the Penan of today are a fascinating mix of traditional and modern. While the youth dress in modern attire and listen to the latest songs on their phones, they can also skillfully use the blowpipe, build a jungle shelter, catch fish and perform many of the traditional Penan arts. Their grandparents were the generation brought into settlements and many older Penan still wear the traditional Penan haircut and have long, decorated earlobes. All of these Penan have incredible practical knowledge of the jungle; its plant, animal and insect life and how to survive there, though with each passing generation, some of this knowledge is inevitably lost.

Penan SelungoIt is important to note that there are two main groups of Penan, the Western Penan, based now around the Belaga district and Silat river, and the Eastern Penan, who live in the around Baram river basin. These groups have linguistic and cultural differences, although are closely related. The Penan that you will be visiting are the Penan Selungo, forming part of the Eastern Penan grouping, so named because they settled by the Selungo river. The Penan Selungo are in some ways, the lucky ones. The forest in their area is still largely intact and thus they are able to continue to find wild game, sago, fruit and traditional medicines in the forest and bathe and catch fish in the rivers. This has helped them to avoid some of the social ills plaguing other Penan communities. Yet, the area is still under threat from logging companies that have promised to return.

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4! Picnic with the Penan 2011

The role of Picnic with the PenanPicnic with the Penan hopes to offer an avenue to address some of the economic disadvantage which affects the Penan people as well as offering a way for them to share their culture and continue to preserve their forest. Once fully established, it is envisaged that the program will provide a steady source of income for the communities, offering Penan people an alternative to menial labour in logging camps or low level jobs in Miri. Unlike other tourism programs in Malaysia, Picnic with the Penan has almost no organisational costs. Organisational work is done on a volunteer basis and money from tourists is paid directly to community members for them to spend as they see fit. The only exception to this is the community fee, which each tourist pays before their visit. This fee goes into a community fund and the Koperasi (community management) decide how it should be best spent. In this way, the program is able to remain responsive to the changing needs of the villages and the Penan themselves are the ones to make crucial decisions about the program. The program also offers other, more indirect advantages. Through conversation with tourists, Penan people have an opportunity to practice their English and to inform and educate citizens of the world about their culture and their ongoing struggles. In today’s world of international trade, in which trees from Borneo may become tables in Germany or paper in Japan, this opportunity is invaluable. After spending a week in the villages, visitors are able, with the benefit of direct experience, to raise awareness among their own citizens and governments about the culture and plight of the Penan of Borneo.

The Community Fee and Community ProjectsPicnic with the Penan is a community run and managed eco-tourism project, designed such that tourism is manageable and directly benefits local communities. Part of your payment will be a community fee which goes into a general community fund, to be spent by the village communities on projects which benefit all.

T R E E N U R S E R Y A N D T R E E P L A N T I N G P R O J E C T

Long Sepigen in particular has borne the brunt of two rounds of logging and a bushfire which have left swathes of ‘secondary’ low-lying forest and deprived the area of many big old trees. This has also occurred in the area around Long Kerong, although to a lesser extent. Each round of logging has caused the rivers to clog with sediment and oil, which has taken months to clear. This s bad enough, but the felling of big old trees has left more lasting damage. For this reason, the first investment of community funds has been into a community nursery and tree planting project in each village. Members of the community go into the jungle to collect the seeds and saplings of certain tree varieties, such as Red Meranti, White Meranti, and Belian. There are then brought to the nursery, where they are tended until big enough to replant in depleted forest. Already the Long Sepigen nursery holds 10000 young trees. The Long Kerong nursery currently holds 3000, and will hold 20000 trees by 2012. Nurseries are weeded and watered by village locals, providing them with a useful supplementary income. The Long Sepigen trees have recently been replanted in depleted forest. So far trial plots have seen a very encouraging survival rate of up to 90%. Support for this project has come from the Moving Mountains Trust UK. (www.movingmountainstrust.com)

S E K A D E V E L O P M E N T C E N T R E

Social and educational disadvantages have meant that training opportunities for young Penan people are very limited. To help alleviate this, the village communities suggested that they would like to create a training centre for Penan in Miri, which could be used as a base for Penan visiting Miri. Thus, the Seka Development Centre was conceived as a training centre/PWTP travel booking location. It will be affiliated with a well known local hosteling group. This project is in its beginning stages, but once a suitable location is found, this centre will provide training and work opportunities for Penan people. Eventually, it will act as a ‘one stop shop’ for visitors to the Penan villages, where they can organise and book trips, purchase hiking essentials, look at Penan handicraft and have all their questions answered. The centre will also be engaged with volunteer and educational programs.

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The Penan Peace Park Location

ll

l

l

Ba Lai

Ramudu

Ba Jawi

Long Daka

Long Main

Long Sega

Long Sait

Lio Matoh

Long PuakLong Siut

Long Datih

Ba Kerameu Long Sabai

Long Ajeng

Long Lamam

Long Mubui

Ba Sepateu

Long Lamai

Long Silat

Long Baleh

Long Banga

Long SekuanLong Metapa

Long KepangLong Benali

Long Murung

Long Kerong

Long Seniai

Long Tungan

Long Peluan

Long Balang

Long Sekepit

Ba Data Bila

Long Sepigen

Long Makabar

Long Belukun

Long Jekitan

Long Lellang

Long Moh Ulu

Long Sela'an

Long Semiang

Long Beruang

Long Tebangan

Ba Pengaran Iman

Long Je'eh (Jieh)

Kampung Asam Paya

Ba Pengaran Kelian

Kampung Sungai Putak

Indonesia

© 2011, Bruno Manser Fund, Switzerland

Eastern Penan

Kelabit

Kenyah

Kenyah (Jamok)

Saban

Western Penan

The Penan Peace Park

Penan Peace Park

Rivers

l Airstrips

Border Malaysia/Indonesia

Main Logging Roads

© 2011, Bruno Manser Fund, Switzerland

Ethnical Groups

1:350'000

0 10 20

Kilometers ±

The red arrow marks the main ‘jumping off’ point for visits, Long Sepigen village

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6! Picnic with the Penan 2011

Example Trips(when planning your travel, please be mindful that Sunday is a rest day for the Penan. If possible, please avoid scheduling guiding activities on a Sunday. Thankyou.)

1 . L O N G L E L L A N G T O L O N G K E R O N G T R E K

# Days: 4-5

Difficulty level: medium

A 4-5 day trek, commencing in Long Lellang, in which you will camp overnight in the jungle, by a waterfall.

2 . B AT U L I Y H AT T R E K

# Days 2-4

Difficulty level: medium to high

Starting in Long Kerong, climb to the rocky outcrop high above the rainforest for one of the best and most secret views in Borneo. For experienced hikers. Not technical however

3. B AT U L I Y H AT A N C I E N T F O R E S T T R E K

# Days: 2-4 approximately

Difficulty level: medium

Starting at Long Kerong, explore the giant trees and pristine waterfalls behind the mountain of Batu Liyhat.

4. L O N G K E PA N G T O B AT U L I Y H AT T R E K

# Days: 7 approx

Difficulty level: High (experienced hikers only)

Trek for five days in the forest, before exploring the mountain and traveling to the villages.

5. B AT U S I M A N T R E K

# Days: 5 approximately

Difficulty level: medium

Take a boat down the river and trek to the mystical limestone outcrops and caves of Batu Siman.

6 . B A R E O T R E K

# Days: 9 approx

Difficulty level: High

Trek through the dense and still pristine jungle of the Bareo Highlands. Long and short treks available.

7. W AT E R FA L L T R E K

# Days: 4-5 approximately

Difficulty level: medium

Starting from Ba Data or Long Lamam, experience a remote trek through dense forest to reach Sarawak’s second highest waterfall, situated downriver of the Baram area.

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Custom Itineraries & CostsIt is possible to devise your own itinerary to suit your particular interests and time constraints. This should be be discussed with PWTP well in advance of your departure to ensure that arrangements can be made. Please have regard to the following costs when calculating the budget for your trip. The costs are accurate as at September 2011.

1. Community fund donation! 100 myr per person – this must be paid prior to departure

2. Guide (1-5 person)! ! 80 myr per day; 50 myr per half day

3. 2nd Guide/porter (5 + person) 60 myr per day

4. Local guide! ! ! 60 myr per day!

5. Porter! ! ! 50 myr per day & 15myr per night if overnight (1 porter must be taken for safety reasons on

overnight treks)

6. Home-stay! ! ! 50 myr per day inc 2-3 meals

7. Guided Botanical walk (2-3 hours) 30 myr per person

8. Blowpipe making! ! 80 myr per day, 50 myr per half day, 15 myr per hour per person

9. Basket/mat/bracelet making/participation 15 myr per hour per person

10. Hammock hire! ! 30 myr per night per person, deposit 200 myr per person

11. Boat journey (L Siut – L Kerong or L Sait or reverse) 250 myr per boat (max 3 person)

12. Boat journey (L Siut – L Sepigen or reverse) 100 myr per boat (max 3 person)

13. Boat journey (L.Sepigen - L.Kerong or reverse) 150 myr per boat (max 3 person)

14. Boat journey (L Sepigen – L Sulan) (river low) 100 myr per boat (max 3 person)

15. 4 Wheel Drive: L Banga - L Siut river (start of boat journey) 300 myr one way (max 5)

16. 4 Wheel Drive: L Akah – L Siut river (start of boat journey) 300 myr one way (max 5)

PLEASE NOTE: These prices are given as a guideline only. If you should change your itinerary or mode of transfer or decide to visit on your own, then different prices (higher or lower) may apply. Some of the activities may of course happen spontaneously and there will not always be a charge for them.

PaymentAll payments are made to the relevant people after the service has been rendered. For instance, after your two nights of homestay, you will pay the agreed fee to the family that you stayed with. After you are driven to your destination by 4x4, you pay the agreed fee to your driver, and so on. Only the community fee is collected by Picnic with the Penan, to be distributed into community projects. Please take this costs lists with you to the villages, to confirm correct prices.

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8! Picnic with the Penan 2011

Some Practicals in the villageDuring your visit, you will be staying in the home of a Penan family. The houses are fairly simple wooden houses with sparse furnishings. As with all communities, the families in Penan villages have different levels of income and facilities. Please be respectful and understanding of this. Be assured that the family will be trying very hard to make you feel comfortable in their home.

Sleeping

Your family may provide a mattress or they may expect that you will sleep on the floor mats, as they do. It is advisable to bring a Thermarest mat or sponge mat if you are uncomfortable with this. If you have a health issue concerning your back, please inform PWTP prior to departure to the village. You may also like to bring ear-plugs as the cocks crow quite early in the village!

Food

You will bring food to the village with you, which will be prepared by your homestay family. The Penan eat three times per day and often also have morning and afternoon tea. Meals will generally include rice with several local dishes, such as jungle greens, tapioca, fish, and egg. Fried noodles may also be served. You may be lucky enough to experience Penan specialities such as wild boar, seego and na’o.

Please be aware that the variety of food that you will receive will depend somewhat on the means of the family with whom you will be staying and the food you bring along. Most people find that there is more than enough food, however meals can seem repetitive to Western tastes. You are welcome to bring along some of your favourite foods with you if you wish, however please ensure that any packaging or food wrappers that you bring into the village are also taken out when you leave.

Please inform us of any particular dietary requirements which you may have.

Bathing and Clothes Washing

The villagers bathe and wash clothes in the nearby river. As bathing is public, there is no nudity. Women wear a sarong tied under their armpits. You will be able to buy a suitable sarong in Miri prior to your arrival in the village. Men may wear shorts and are advised to wear a t-shirt. Please also bring biodegradable soap for washing.

Dirty clothes are hand-washed in the river using a scrubbing brush, soap and a usefully-shaped rock. The Penan have high standards of cleanliness and will notice if your clothes are dirty or smell (although they are unlikely to comment as it would be considered rude).

During recreational swimming, the same dress standards apply. Swimming suits will not be suitable. Again, men should wear shorts.

Toilets

The houses you will be staying in will have squat toilets. These are flushed using a bucket of water provided. The Penan follow the Malay style of squat toilets and cleaning with water rather than toilet paper. You may bring toilet paper with you but please do not flush toilet paper or sanitary items down the toilet as this will cause a blockage in the pipe. These should go into the bin or buried.

Electricity

Some of the houses in the villages have generators supplying electricity. Their use will depend on the availability of petrol. Bring a surge guard adaptor if you think you might want to use this.

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Picnic with the Penan 2011! 9

Preparation for Jungle Trekking

Jungle trekking is likely to be one of the highlights of your trip to the Penan Peace Park. Whether you embark on a five day mission or opt for a more relaxed day trip, you will be enthralled by the variety and abundance of plant life in the area. Here, you can bathe in beautiful rock pools, climb mountains, stand inside enormous trees and take in breathtaking views. You’ll see insects the likes of which you’ve never seen before, exquisite orchards, horn-billed birds, lizards, fish and dare we say, leeches! This is a genuine Penan jungle experience - you will be traversing tracks which the Penan themselves use for hunting and traveling. There are no boardwalks or railings here, no tourist jeeps. Along with your Penan guide and possibly porters, you’ll be in amongst some of the last unspoiled jungle left in Borneo.

Obviously, trekking in such a remote area requires adequate preparation, it will be important for you to make sure that you have appropriate clothing and equipment with you. Also, while we are able to adapt treks to suit a variety of fitness levels, all visitors should consider seriously whether they are sufficiently fit to traverse rugged terrain in a location where medical assistance is not readily available. We also advise you to visit a travel doctor in your country before you leave, to ensure that you have up to date travel health information. Travel insurance is also a necessity.

Other important safety points for trekking

• A simple illness or injury elsewhere can rapidly become serious in a remote location and you should exercise extra caution. The guides are not trained in medical skills except for the most basic of first aid so you must look after yourselves and fellow visitors. If you feel unwell at any time, stop and tell your guide.

• When out of the villages, the trekking can be steep, wet, muddy, hot and very tiring. Do not overestimate your fitness or compare your trekking experiences from past adventures from different environments.

• Always make sure you have purified or boiled drinking water on you and plan ahead. There is little water to be found on top of ridges. Always check with your guide when the next chance to get more water will be.

• Quite often communication with your guide and porters could be difficult. Unless you speak Penan or Malay, you will need to often double check arrangements and timings. If you do not understand what your guide is explaining, ask him to explain again. Remember, English is not their first language and maybe not yours and often the locals have had very little chance to learn or practice it.

• Finally do be patient and flexible and try and smile even during the toughest or most frustrating times. You’ll find that there is nothing to be gained by getting angry or upset. The Penan are generally very patient people and will be doing their best to make sure that you are having a good time.

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10! Picnic with the Penan 2011

Packing for your trip

The list below has been formulated by previous visitors, to give you an idea of what to bring with you. It anticipates that you will be spending some time hiking and some time in the village homestay.

To arrange in your home country:

• Dry bags: As the jungle is wet, and you may be wading through rivers, dry bags are a must. Take more than one, they are very handy.

• Toiletries: Biodegradable soap, available in the outdoor stores and mosquito repellent with at least 40% DEET. Or, for a natural alternative, Mos-E Guard insect repellent works well and is available in Miri. Sunscreen is also a must. If needed, women should bring tampons from home as these are hard to find in Malaysia.

• Medicine kit: Take a good medicine/first aid kit. Hydration salts such as Gastrolyte are good for replenishing fluids during hiking.

• Mosquito net (and rope to attach it): Some villages will have mosquito nets available but best to bring one along in case they do not, or it is not big enough for you. While staying overnight in the jungle, you will use a PWTP hammock which is equipped with a mosquito net.

• Leech socks: Don’t count on finding them in Malaysia, so buy them on the internet. If you can’t, a good alternative is to wear knee length stockings with football socks over the top. You pull the socks up over your trousers and spray liberally with insect repellant. Still, you can never guarantee a leech-free trip, even with leech socks. Don’t worry though, they are not so bad, they don’t hurt and you can easily pick them off. Remember, the Penan often walk in bare feet!

• Hiking clothes: Bring a pair of synthetic hiking trousers. These are light and quick drying. The trousers which can be converted to shorts are very useful. Also bring a couple of long sleeved shirts to prevent scratches on your arms from brushing past leaves and rocks. When staying overnight in the jungle, it can get cold, so a warmer top is also recommended. A light rain jacket is also a good idea.

• Backpack: Bring a good size, easy to wear backpack. There will be porters but they will mostly carry the food (depending on how many porters you book). Count on carrying your own luggage, hammock and possibly water, so pack light. If you don’t want to carry anything, book enough porters. You can pack your food in a box for the flight to the villages. If you brought things to Malaysia that you don;t want to take to the villages, you can leave them in Miri.

• Water purification tablets/Steripen: As you will be boiling water during your hike, you are unlikely to need these but either are good to bring as a safety precaution.

• Snacks: Bring some snacks eg muesli bars and nut bars. Trail mixes with seeds, nuts and dried fruit are great. Although you can buy these in Miri you may wish to bring your favorites from home. Don’t forget to bring some for your guide and porters. Sharing is caring.

• Other basics: candles, lighter, cup, plate, spoon, knife, hat, head torch, batteries, sleeping bag or sleep sheet, plastic bags.

• Souvenirs: Pictures from your home are likely to be very interesting to the Penan and small souvenirs from your country are always a nice parting gesture.

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To arrange in Miri:

• Sarong: as mentioned, Western swimwear is not considered appropriate in the Penan communities, so women may wish to wear a sarong over their swimwear. Or you, can just swim in t-shirt and shorts as the Penan often do!

• Shoes: Whatever outdoor professionals back home may tell you, don’t bother buying expensive jungle or hiking shoes. In Miri, Kuching and Kota Kinabalu, you can buy ‘kampung shoes’. These are simple rubber shoes with a studded bottom that people wear in the villages. Don’t look for them in the shopping complexes, but in the local street stores. They cost about 10 Ringett and are great for walking in the jungle. When hiking, you should wear them with socks otherwise you may get heinous blisters. For a little extra padding, you can also put insoles in the shoes. Note-size 42 is the largest size available here, but they stretch.

• Food: You will be bringing food with you from Miri. The question of what food to bring and how much is often a concern for visitors. Remember that you will be bringing food for your porters and guide as well as yourself. Count on three meals per day in the villages and two meals per day when trekking. Meals generally consist of rice, and one or two varieties of vegetables. Your guide may bring rice and some local vegetables, and of course may hunt some food or catch fish while in the jungle, but do not count on this.

Vegetables can be bought in Miri. Try to buy vegetables that can last for a while in hot surroundings, for example, eggplant, spinach, cucumbers, tomato, bok choy, pak choy. An example of the amount of vegetables required for one meal for six persons might be three eggplants and one big bunch of bok choy, eaten with rice. From experience, mushrooms don’t last long in hot weather! For fruit, apples are excellent and great refreshment after a long hike.

Rice is a staple food for the Penan and is eaten at every meal. Bring approximately 150 grams per person per meal. You can also bring noodles, but the Penan are more likely to eat rice. One group took 5 kilos of rice for 3 days of trekking for 6 people and found this amount adequate.

If you wish, you can bring some tinned food such as tuna or salmon. Also appreciated are garlic, oil and salt to flavour the meals. For rest breaks, instant coffee, tea, milo sachets and a pack of biscuits are nice.

Ask the shop to pack your food inside a box instead of bags. This way, you can easily bring them on the plane.

• Snacks: If you haven’t brought them with you, buy snacks such as nut bars, muesli bars, sultanas and trail mix in Miri.

• Water: During your trekking and in the villages, water will be boiled for you so that you can refill your bottles. Just take enough bottles of water with you as a start and then reuse them. When trekking you’ll probably refill your bottles in the morning, so make sure that you have at least a days worth of bottles with you. Previous groups have taken 4.5L of bottled water each. Note, if you are trekking far from water sources, such as along mountain ridges, this estimate may not be appropriate for you. Please check with Picnic with the Penan during your preparation.

Shopping in Miri:

Along with open markets, Miri has several Shopping Centres where you can buy your supplies. Ask the people at your hostel or hotel for directions.

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12! Picnic with the Penan 2011

Village Visitor RulesWe welcome you to our village and ask you to kindly respect our guidelines for visitors.

Please show respect for the people in the village and fellow visitors. Behavior that is considered proper, respectful and courteous in your home country will be considered the same in the village. However, please note the specific points mentioned below.

1. While you are staying in the village in your homestay, please avoid disturbing other families. For instance;

• do not go into the garden or home of a family that you are not staying with unless you are invited.

• do not touch the possessions of others without their consent.

• in the evening, after nine pm, please do not go walking around the village as this will disturb families trying to sleep.

2. If an area is marked off as forbidden, please do not enter the area.

3. If possible, bring in your own food and necessities. Please remove all rubbish such as food packaging, containers and wrappers that you have brought with you.

4. Respect the faith of others.

5. Do not disturb or move anything from the graveyard.

6. Outside guides must be familiar with the rules and history of the village.

7. Visitors should pay the prior agreed fees for services in the village.

8. Do not remove any plant or animal from its place. Do not feed or pet animals for your own safety.

9. Strictly no alcohol, recreational drugs or cigarettes are be brought to the village.

10. If you have a good experience with us, please promote the Penan Peace Park on your return to your home country.

Thank you

*This list is based on the Penan Peace Park Codex for Tourism

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Penan customsThe Penan are familiar with tourists and understand that your cultural practices are different. However, your consideration of Penan customs and mores are appreciated.

• For the Penan, it is customary not to say a person’s name in their presence, but instead use a nickname as a sign of familiarity and respect.

• They also do not speak the name of a person who has passed away.

• The Penan avoid direct criticism of another person.

• The handshake greeting used in Penan communities is a a gentle grasp of the other person’s hand, which is released and then moved to touch one’s own heart.

• The Penan have a tradition of sharing with others. If you are in a group and you have food, it is polite to share it with others. If you do not want to share an item, bring it out when you are alone! Similarly, Penan people may invite you to share something of theirs. You are welcome to accept this, however if you can see that they do not have enough to share, it is polite to decline. If the item is food, you can say that you have already eaten.

• As the Penan are devout Christians, your homestay family may wish to say a prayer before eating. You need not pray but it is polite to wait until the prayer is finished before you start eating.

• Similarly, it is unwise to be disparaging about religion, Christianity or any other aspect of religious worship.

• Church services are held every morning at 5.50am (20 minute service) and Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday nights (1 hour service). Visitors may attend services.

• Sunday is considered a rest day. Please avoid scheduling treks on this day where possible.

• The Penan are very conservative people. Please avoid any lewd, rude or sexual speech, humour, gestures and behaviour.

• Penan couples do not kiss or behave intimately in public. Couples should avoid kissing and other intimate or sexual behaviour. Any such behaviour is likely to attract unwanted attention. Hand-holding is acceptable.

• Small tokens of friendship and gratitude are appreciated eg a small item from your home country.

• Remove shoes before entering any house.

• Avoid tight or revealing clothing. This is particularly the case for females. Penan women are generally covered from their shoulders to their knees when not bathing.

• Women should wear a sarong or some other covering attire when bathing. Men should wear long shorts.

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Worst Case Scenario Page On most occasions you can expect to be met at the airport or river by your guide. However due to the remoteness of the location and distances from the villages to airports you should be prepared for the very unlikely event that the guide is not there. This could be due to a vehicle breakdown, sickness or problems with communication.

Long Banga:

If you are arriving from Long Banga then ask someone at the airport where to find a 4 x 4 to take you to Long Siut where the boats to the villages are to be found. This should cost no more than 300 myr one way and is a 90 minute journey maximum. If you are told there is nothing available then be persistent and walk to the village itself where there are usually a number of 4 x 4 's to be found.

At Long Siut, the boat and boatman will be probably be expecting you but if not then tell someone at the village store or by the river where you wish to go - depending on the time of day this will be either Long Sepigen or Long Kerong. Make sure you have your costings sheet with you for guidance of prices.

If there is nothing available and your time is flexible then ask for a guide to send you to Long Lamai - this is a Penan village about 1 hour flat trek away from Long Banga and there you will find people who can the next day send you to Long Siut. Otherwise you could choose to stay in Long Lamai - the village members here are related to the others in the project.

There are no regular mobile phone services in Long Banga or Long Lamai but a landline sometimes works and Long Lamai has satellite internet connection.

Long Akah:

If you are arriving from Long Akah then ask someone at the airport where to find a 4 x 4 to take you to Long Siut where the boats to the villages are to be found. This should cost no more than 250 - 300 myr one way and is a 90 minute journey maximum. If you are told there is nothing available then be persistent and walk to the village itself where there are usually a number of 4 x 4 's to be found around the village shop/restaurant.

At Long Siut, the boat and boatman will be probably be expecting you but if not then tell someone at the village store or by the river where you wish to go - depending on the time of day this will be either Long Sepigen or Long Kerong. Make sure you have your costings sheet with you for guidance of prices.

If all else fails there are a couple of small homestays where you can spend a night and the next day look for a 4 x 4 again. There is sometimes enough mobile signal near the shops to send and receive a sms message.

Long Lellang:

If you are arriving from Long Lellang then ask someone at the airport where to find a guide to take you to Long Kepang Penan village where the guides and porters can be found. There are often people from this village meeting the airplane anyway. This should cost no more than 30 myr one way and is a 90 minute journey maximum. If you are told there is nothing available then be persistent and walk to the village itself where there are usually a number of people to be found around the village shop/restaurant.

If all else fails there are a couple of small homestays where you can spend a night and the next day look for a guide again. There are no regular mobile phone services in Long Lellang.

Do not be too worried about this information, the areas are very safe for travelers and most people will only be too pleased to assist. Just be patient and smile and it will all work out.

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Penan Annual CalendarJanuary

• end of January, Penan harvest the rice crop. The rice is ready for harvesting when the top of the plant is an orange or yellow colour. At this time, everyone in the village is on the farm from morning until eleven am. They rest during the hottest part of the day, then start again at around two pm and finish at five pm.

February

• The Penan continue to harvest rice

March

• At the end of March, once everyone in the village has finished the rice harvest, there is a Harvest Festival. This is a big party for the whole village. At this festival, the women cook a big pot of rice. They put the rice inside banana leaves to give it a nice aroma. Some people go hunting and the meat is shared. The preparation for the festival can take a week and the festival lasts for one or two days.

April

• relax

May

• Villagers look for a new place to plant rice. If they find a suitable place, they cut the grass and small trees using a Parang (large knife).

June

• Bigger trees are cut, using a chainsaw.

July

• Villagers make a small house near the farm to stay in. They wait for the wood from the trees which have been cut down to become dry. These can be used for firewood.

• They burn the area that they have chosen for the farm as this creates good soil for the rice to grow.

• If the fire is strong, they will be able to start planting rice in August. If not, they must cut more branches and burn again.

August

• 10 August - ‘debur’ - (the date is carefully chosen so that birds won’t take the seeds. This is when the Penan put holes in the ground for the rice plants and put the seeds in the ground. This may take a month to complete.

• Some Penan may choose to make a rice paddy in addition to their farm, or instead if they have been unsuccessful in finding a suitable area. If so, they will now grow rice in a small area at high density.

September

• Those whose farm burn was unsuccessful may now be doing their ‘debur’.

• The Penan also place traps for porcupines and long-tailed porcupines in September. The porcupines have a stone inside them which is very valuable. The stone has three gradings, A - a hard, black stone, B - a brown, softer stone and C - a smooth, soft, white stone.

October

• Those making a rice paddy (bario) will flood an area and plant the rice which has been grown in the high-density area.

November

• The Penan start preparing for the January harvest. This involves making rattan mats to dry out the rice, making big harvesting baskets (ingen), making broad brimmed hats. They also make smaller baskets and bracelets.

December

• The Christmas festival runs from 25 December to 1 January. On the 24th, everyone prepares for the festival. At midnight, they shoot bullets into the air to celebrate. They then stay up all night, praying. At 6am a big bowl of water for cooking is prepared. 9am - 11am, a church service and then the big party begins. People auction items that they have made and bought. The money is donated to the church. People sing Christmas songs, eat food, play games and have competitions, such as a a blowpipe competition, a football competition and a sack race.

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Speaking PenanThe Penan will be very happy if you try to speak their language, and they are likely to find it amusing too! Here is some basic Penan language.

I   - Akeu  you - ka'auwe   - ameehe - lakei inahshe - redo inah Yes - Omok, No - BekHow are you? - Ineu Rengah?I’m fine - Rengah JianWhat is your name? - Ineu ngaran ko?My name is _____ - Ngaran ke ________How old are you? - Kuraa umun ko?I know a little Penan - Akeu jam si-ik ha PenanThankyou - Jian KeninGood Morning - Jian Ngivun (g is silent)Good day - Jian DaupejekGood afternoon - Jian TahupGood evening - Jian MeremCome here - Tuai situuFollow me - Kevut akeuI’ll follow you - Akeu kevut ka’auLook - Na’atSit down - MenyunGo home - MolleeI’m sick - Akeu sakitI’m cold - Akeu geninI’m hot - Akeu panaaI want to drink water - Akeu kelo mesep baaI’m hungry - Akeu la’ouI’m full - Akeu besoI’m tired - Akeu mutauI want to rest - Akeu juk posotI want to sleep - Akeu kelo pegenI go to ____ - Akeu tai ____I want to go to the toilet - Akeu juk tai jaban

What time is it? - Pukun kuraa itu’?How much does it cost? (eg basket, bangle) - Kuraa itu’ ?How much is it ?(service) - Kuraa bayan?May I take a photo of you? - Omok akeu ala gabun ko?How far until we get there? - Koh kejuu tai sinaa?I don’t know - Be’ akeu jamThankyou for having me stay with you - Bara jian kenin uban ke moko tong lamin koThankyou for being my guide - Bara jian kenin uban ka’ao mihao akeuSwimming - PerlangoiBathing - MerooRiver - BaaTree - TeleuFlower - BungaCar - KeretaMonkey - MedokBeautiful - Jian na’atSlippery - LanyaSteep - EehangMuddy - Gramme’Muddy river - Baa litutFood (meat) - Ka’anFood (vegetable) - Ba’anButterfly - LegangSpider - GelawaLeech - KematekFar - JuuNear - DaniHigh - BauLow - DivaOne - Jah, Two - Dua, Three - Teleu - Four - Pat, Five - Lemah, Six - Nem, Seven - Tuju, Eight - Ayah, Nine - Pi’en, Ten - Poloh

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Picnic with the Penan 2011. Information Pack prepared by Angela Dennis with assistance from many.! 17

More Information

A B O U T T H E P E N A N

• Survival International Penan webpage: www.survivalinternational.org/tribes/penan

• Friends of the Penan webpage: www.friendsofthepenan.com

• BBC Television show Tribe website: www.bbc.co.uk/tribe/tribes/penan

• The Borneo Project: www.borneoproject.org

• Article by anthropologist, Wade Davis, In Context Quarterly: http://www.context.org/ICLIB/IC29/Davis.htm

• Speaking for Earth website: http://www.speaking4earth.net/html/?people=24

• Forest Peoples Programme - Malaysia: www.forestpeoples.org/location/asia-pacific/malaysia

• Rengah Sarawak: www.rengah.c2o.org

• Internet version of book Nomads of the Dawn: www.rimba.com/nomads/nomads1.html

• Borneo Resources Institute: www.brimas.www1.50megs.com

A B O U T P R E PA R AT I O N F O R Y O U R T R I P

• Picnic with the Penan blog: www.picnicwiththepenan.wordpress.com

• Picnic with the Penan facebook: www.facebook.com/picnicwiththepenan

• Former traveller’s blog: www.tuaiewuaku.blogspot.com

• Treks and Climbs website: www.treksandclimbs.com/trekkingoverview_trekprep.htm