Students: Fluturas Alina & Chima Ioana Coordinator: Lect. dr.Neacsu Nicoleta Year: 2nd

Faculty: Business Administration

Group: 8811

Table of contents

2Table of contents

3Introduction

4Chapter 1 : General informations about perfume

4Short history

5Olfactive families

7Classification - Fragrance wheel

8Chapter 2: Perfume Ingredients (Composition)

8Raw Materials

11Chapter 3: Production and consumption

113.1 Production

133.2 Consumption

14Chapter 4 : The falsification of the perfume

16Chapter 5: The perfume effects on health

18Chapter 6: The quality standards of perfume

19Conclusion

20References

Introduction

A perfume is like a piece of clothing, a message, a way of presenting oneself []a costume []that differs according to the woman who wears it.(Paloma Picasso)

We have chosen this topic, because perfumes have a very large popularity among the people, especially among women and its also a very controversial subject for so many reasons, such as: quality, brand, ingredients that are used, persistence of the smell etc.

In this project we are going to talk about the history of perfumes, its ingredients, the consumption level, production steps and about the qualitative characteristics.

The objectives of this project are : to show you the fact that perfume, like many others products, has a big importance for us,because as Choco Channel said A women who doesn`t wear perfume has no future, what does it means that perfume is like a signiture, a specific signature for each of us.Also, we will try to find and to present you some of the secrets of making a perfume and how to make the difference between an original perfume and a fake one.Chapter 1 : General informations about perfume

Short history

The word perfume used today derives from the Latin per fumum, meaning "through smoke." Perfumery, or the art of making perfumes, began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt and was further refined by the Romans and Persians.

The world's first recorded chemist is considered to be a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker who was mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the 2nd millennium BC in Mesopotamia.She distilled flowers, oil, and calamus with other aromatics then filtered and put them back in the still several times.

The art of perfumery was known in western Europe since 1221, if we consider the monks' recipes of Santa Maria delle Vigne or Santa Maria Novella of Florence, Italy. In the east, the Hungarians produced in 1370 a perfume made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution at the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary, best known as Hungary Water. The art of perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy, and in the 16th century, Italian refinements were taken to France by Catherine de' Medici's personal perfumer, Rene the Florentine (Renato il fiorentino). His laboratory was connected with her apartments by a secret passageway, so that no formulae could be stolen en route. Thanks to Rene, France quickly became one of the European centers of perfume and cosmetic manufacture.

Perfumes are mixtures of fragrant essential oils and/or aroma compounds, and solvents used to give the human body, animals, objects, and living spaces a pleasant perfume experience.

Perfumes have been known to exist in some of the earliest human civilizations either through ancient texts or from archaeological digs. Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds such as vanillin or coumarin, which allowed for the composition of perfumes with smells previously unattainable solely from natural aromatics alone.

Olfactive families

Grouping perfumes, like any taxonomy, can never be a completely objective or final process. Many fragrances contain aspects of different families. Even a perfume designated as "single flower", however subtle, will have undertones of other aromatics. "True" unitary scents can rarely be found in perfumes as it requires the perfume to exist only as a singular aromatic material.

Classification by olfactive family is a starting point for a description of a perfume, but it cannot by itself denote the specific characteristic of that perfume.

a)Traditional

The traditional classification which emerged around 1900 comprised the following categories:

Single Floral: Fragrances that are dominated by a scent from one particular flower; in French called a soliflore. (e.g. Serge Lutens Sa Majeste La Rose, which is dominated by rose.)

Floral Bouquet: Is a combination of fragrance of several flowers in a perfume compound. Examples include Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant and Joy by Jean Patou.

Amber or "Oriental": A large fragrance class featuring the sweet slightly animalic scents of ambergris or labdanum, often combined with vanilla, tonka bean, flowers and woods. Can be enhanced by camphorous oils and incense resins, which bring to mind Victorian era imagery of the Middle East and Far East. Traditional examples include Guerlain's Shalimar and Yves Saint Laurent's Opium.

Woody: Fragrances that are dominated by woody scents, typically of agarwood, sandalwood and cedarwood. Patchouli, with its camphoraceous smell, is commonly found in these perfumes. A traditional example here would be Myrurgia's Maderas De Oriente or Chanel Bois-des-les. A modern example would be Balenciaga Rumba.

Leather: A family of fragrances which features the scents of honey, tobacco, wood and wood tars in its middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather. Traditional examples include Robert Piguet's Bandit and Balmain's Jolie Madame.

Chypre : This includes fragrances built on a similar accord consisting of bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum. This family of fragrances is named after the eponymous 1917 perfume by Franois Coty, and one of the most famous extant examples is Guerlain's Mitsouko.

Fougre : built on a base of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss. Houbigant's Fougre Royale pioneered the use of this base. Many men's fragrances belong to this family of fragrances, which is characterized by its sharp herbaceous and woody scent. Some well-known modern fougres are Faberg Brut and Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir.

b)Modern

Since 1945, due to great advances in the technology of perfume creation (i.e., compound design and synthesis) as well as the natural development of styles and tastes, new categories have emerged to describe modern scents:

Bright Floral: combining the traditional Single Floral & Floral Bouquet categories. A good example would be Este Lauder's Beautiful.

Green: a lighter and more modern interpretation of the Chypre type, with pronounced cut grass, crushed green leaf and cucumber-like scents. Examples include Este Lauder's Aliage, Sisley's Eau de Campagne, and Calvin Klein's Eternity.

Aquatic, Oceanic, or Ozonic: the newest category in perfume history, first appearing in 1988 Davidoff Cool Water (1988), Christian Dior's Dune (1991), and many others. A clean smell reminiscent of the ocean, leading to many of the modern androgynous perfumes. Generally contains calone, a synthetic scent discovered in 1966, or other more recent synthetics. Also used to accent floral, oriental, and woody fragrances.

Citrus: An old fragrance family that until recently consisted mainly of "freshening" eau de colognes, due to the low tenacity of citrus scents. Development of newer fragrance compounds has allowed for the creation of primarily citrus fragrances. A good example here would be Faberge Brut.

Fruity: featuring the aromas of fruits other than citrus, such as peach, cassis (black currant), mango, passion fruit, and others. A modern example here would be Ginestet Botrytis.

Gourmand : scents with "edible" or "dessert"-like qualities. These often contain notes like vanilla, tonka bean and coumarin, as well as synthetic components designed to resemble food flavors. A sweet example is Thierry Mugler's Angel. A savory example would be Dinner by BoBo, which has cumin and curry hints.

Classification - Fragrance wheel

The Fragrance wheel (Fig 1.3) is a relatively new classification method that is widely used in retail Fig. 1.3 Fragrance Wheel

and in the fragrance industry. The method was created in 1983 by Michael Edwards, a consultant in the perfume industry, who designed his own scheme of fragrance classification. The new scheme was created in order to simplify fragrance classification and naming scheme, as well as to show the relationships between each of the individual classes.

The five standard families consist of Floral, Oriental, Woody, Fougre, and Fresh, with the former four families being more "classic" while the latter consisting of newer bright and clean smelling citrus and oceanic fragrances that have arrived due to improvements in fragrance technology. Each of the families are in turn divided into sub-groups and arranged around a wheel.

Chapter 2: Perfume Ingredients (Composition)

Perfume compositions are made from more than 300 natural and synthetic odoriferous substances obtained from plant, animal, and chemical raw materials. Plant substances or volatile oils (from steam distillation or extracts) are used alone as scents (rose, coriander, sandalwood oils), as raw materials for making synthetic essences (coriander, sassafras, and anise), and in the form of infusions (patchouli leaves, coriander seeds, or oak moss). Animal substances (amber, civet, and musk) are used only in the form of infusions. Raw Materials

Natural ingredientsflowers, grasses, spices, fruit, wood, roots, resins, balsams, leaves, gums, and animal secretionsas well as resources like alcohol, petrochemicals, coal, and coal tars are used in the manufacture of perfumes. Some plants, such as lily of the valley, do not produce oils naturally. In fact, only about 2,000 of the 250,000 known flowering plant species contain these essential oils. Therefore, synthetic chemicals must be used to re-create the smells of non-oily substances. Synthetics also create original scents not found in nature.

Some perfume ingredients are animal products. For example, castor comes from beavers, musk from male deer, and ambergris from the sperm whale. Animal substances are often used as fixatives that enable perfume to evaporate slowly and emit odors longer. Other fixatives include coal tar, mosses, resins, or synthetic chemicals. Alcohol and sometimes water are used to dilute ingredients in perfumes. It is the ratio of alcohol to scent that determines whether the perfume is "eau de toilette" (toilet water) or cologne.

1. Base Ingredients The scented ingredients of a perfume are always blended with a solvent. The solvent either consists of ethanol alcohol or a mix of ethanol alcohol and water. The various grades of perfume refer the amount of fragrance oil that is blended with the solvent. Perfume, or parfum, is the most intense type of perfume, and it consists of approximately 22% fragrance oils. Cologne, the least intense type of perfume, consists of approximately 4% fragrance oils.2. Organic Ingredients Plants are the main source of natural perfume ingredients. Different parts of plants produce different scents. All parts of a plant, including bark, roots, flowers, leaves, fruits, wood and resins, or sap, are used to create perfume. Popular natural ingredients include rose and jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli and citrus oils. Distillation, which involves steaming the plant material, is the most common way to extract oils from natural materials. More expensive ways to extract essential oils from plant material include maceration (seeping the fragrant material in oil) and expressing, or squeezing.3. Synthetic Scents There are hundreds of synthetic scent compounds used in perfume. Some mimic organic ingredients, and others are unique scents or blends. Popular synthetic scents used in perfume include benzyl acetate, a synthetically produced jasmine scent, Galaxolide, a synthetic musk-like scent, and ethyl linalool, a lavender scent. International Flavors and Fragrances is one of the top producers of synthetic fragrances in the world. The main ingredients from perfume are: Water - is a chemical compound, is a good polar solvent and is often referred to as the universal solvent Alcohol - is an organic compound. It is found in beverages for adults, as fuel, and also has many scientific, medical, and industrial uses.

Fragrance - is a mixture of aromatic components that stimulate bodys physical sense of smell, to get the feeling of aroma.

Linalool - is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol chemical found in many flowers and spice plants with many commercial applications, the majority of which are based on its pleasant scent (floral, with a touch of spiciness).

Cinnamyl alcohol - is an organic compound that is found in esterified form in storax, balsam Peru and cinnamon leaves ; has a distinctive odour described as "sweet, balsam, hyacinth, spicy, green, powdery, cinnamic" and is used in perfumeryand as a deodorant. Benzaldehyda - a colorless nontoxic aromatic liquid found in essential oils (as in peach kernels) and used in flavoring and perfumery, in pharmaceuticals, and in synthesis of dyes.

Eugenol - extracted from certain essential oils especially from clove oil, nutmeg, cinnamon, basil and bay leaf ; is used in perfumeries, flavorings, essential oils and in medicine as a local antiseptic and anesthetic Hydroxycitronellal - is a perfume ingredient with a medium strength floral scent, reminiscent of lily and sweet tropical melon.

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate - is used in the formulation of a wide variety of product types including sunscreens and makeup products that contain ingredients to protect the skin from the sun.

Oxybenzone - is an organic compound used in sunscreens and other cosmetics because it absorbs UVB and short-wave UVA rays.

Coumarin - is a fragrant organic chemical compound in the benzopyrone chemical class, which is a colorless crystalline substance in its standard state. It is found naturally in many plants. It has a sweet odor, readily recognised as the scent of new-mown hay, and has been used in perfumes since 1882.

Benzyl alcohol - is an organic compound, a colorless liquid with a mild pleasant aromatic odor ; used in the soap, perfume, and flavor industries.

Geraniol - is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol. It has a rose-like scent and is used in flavors such as peach, raspberry, grapefruit, red apple, plum, lime, orange, lemon, watermelon, pineapple, and blueberry.

Chapter 3: Production and consumption

3.1 Production A perfume is composed of three notes. The base note is what a fragrance will smell like after it has dried. The smell that develops after the perfume has mixed with unique body chemistry is referred to as the middle note. And the top note is the first smell experienced in an aroma.

Each perfumery has a preferred perfume manufacturing process, but there are some basic steps : a) collection ;

b) extraction ;

c) blending ;

d) ageing ;

a) Collection

Before the manufacturing process begins, the initial ingredients must be brought to the manufacturing center. Plant substances are harvested from around the world, often hand-picked for their fragrance. Animal products are obtained by extracting the fatty substances directly from the animal. Aromatic chemicals used in synthetic perfumes are created in the laboratory by perfume chemists.

b) Extraction

Oils are extracted from plant substances by several methods: steam distillation, solvent extraction, enfleurage, maceration, and expression.

In steam distillation, steam is passed through plant material held in a still, whereby the essential oil turns to gas. This gas is then passed through tubes, cooled, and liquified. Oils can also be extracted by boiling plant substances like flower petals in water instead of steaming them.

Under solvent extraction, flowers are put into large rotating tanks or drums and benzene or a petroleum ether is poured over the flowers, extracting the essential oils. The flower parts dissolve in the solvents and leave a waxy material that contains the oil, which is then placed in ethyl alcohol. The oil dissolves in the alcohol and rises. Heat is used to evaporate the alcohol, which once fully burned off, leaves a higher concentration of the perfume oil on the bottom.

During enfleurage, flowers are spread on glass sheets coated with grease. The glass sheets are placed between wooden frames in tiers. Then the flowers are removed by hand and changed until the grease has absorbed their fragrance.

Maceration is similar to enfleurage except that warmed fats are used to soak up the flower smell. As in solvent extraction, the grease and fats are dissolved in alcohol to obtain the essential oils.

Expression is the oldest and least complex method of extraction. By this process, now used in obtaining citrus oils from the rind, the fruit or plant is manually or mechanically pressed until all the oil is squeezed out.

c) Blending

Once the perfume oil is extracted, the blending process commences. A perfumer, known as "a nose," uses an extensive knowledge of fragrance characteristic to blend anywhere from 20 to 800 raw materials to compose a scent. Once the scent is developed and tested, batches are robotically mixed.

The pure perfume oil is then diluted with alcohol and water. If a full perfume is desired, 10% to 20% of the oil is dissolved in alcohol with a minute amount of water. Cologne is 3% to 5 % oil, 80% to 90% alcohol and 10 % water. An eau de toilette is 2% oil, 60% to 80% alcohol and 20% water. Then the perfume is ready to be aged, filtered and bottled.d) Ageing

Perfume is often aged for several months or even years after it is blended. Following this, a "nose" will once again test the perfume to ensure that the correct scent has been achieved. Each essential oil and perfume has three notes: "Notes de tete," or top notes, "notes de coeur," central or heart notes, and "notes de fond," base notes that created the Fragrance pyramid from Fig3.1(d). Top notes have tangy or citrus-like smells; central notes Fig. 3.1(d) Fragrance pyramid(aromatic flowers like rose and jasmine) that provide body, and base notes (woody fragrances) provide an enduring fragrance. More "notes," of various smells, may be further blended.

3.2 Consumption

The global fragrances and perfumes market is projected to exceed US$36 billion by 2017, according to a report by Global Industry Analysts.

The global fragrances and perfumes sector does not reflect consistent growth across geographic regions. Variations in growth across the regions are obvious, given the markets dependence on a countrys GDP, standard of living and level of disposable income. Being largely consumer driven, growth is influenced by demographic perception of style, luxury and status/prestige.

Fragrances and perfumes posted a marginal-to-flat sales pattern during the 2008-09 period, driven by cautious consumer approach. In developed countries, the fragrances sector recorded a decline in sales even before the onset of the economic crisis, which only worsened as consumers held back spending on discretionary purchases. However, the decline in sales was offset by the stable growth patterns in emerging markets of Asia-Pacific, Latin America andEastern Europe.

Europe represents the largest market, with consumers ranking among the finest of connoisseurs of fragrances and perfumes. Carrying out their legacy, European companies continue to dominate the global consumption and produce most of the worlds most desirable brands. Penetration of mens fragrances and perfumes also rank high among European males with an estimated 75% of men utilising aftershave/male fragrance. In Italy, Romania and Slovenia, the percentage of men using fragrances far outstrips women.

In Asia, despite the presence of developed markets, including Japan, the per capita consumption in the region, excluding Singapore and Hong Kong, lies below the worlds average. Major attributes for the low consumption in the region include economic conditions and customs that relate to use of heavy scents with the covering of body odour. Currently on the global radar are low penetration markets such as China and Japan, where huge untapped opportunities are the focus of large international players.

Chapter 4 : The falsification of the perfume

The falsification of the products is a great problem at a world level, with millions of countrified goods produced and sold every year. It is estimated that 10% of perfumes from the world market are fakes. In Romania this percentage is much bigger.

The fake perfumes have the same name; the label, bottle and packagealmost the same and a very similar smell. They can be bought from the street or from markets, from vendors with nearly 500 Ron or even cheaper.

The counterfeiters have become experts with the help of the modern printing techniques and the digital print. They are capable of producing almost identical replicas of all the top brands from the market. As a consumer, you will maybe realize only in the moment that you use the fake perfume. You will discover that the smell wont last for long, maybe even a half an hour, instead of half a day or more, like in the case of the original perfumes.

Buying an original perfume is an investment for anyone given the big price. So the consumers must be reassured that the perfume that they bought is an original one, and not a fake one. For this, there are some aspects that you can check before buying a perfume to make sure that is original:

the cellophane wrapping-the thickness, the clarity, too much glue;

the box- the materials quality, the color, the bent edges;

the label-correct information printed on the box, the country of origin, the pattern mistakes, the logo, the unregistered brands like in Fig 4; the bottle- the form, design, thickness, clarity, modeling mistakes, air bubbles in the bottle, unequal or dirty corners;

the inscriptions on the bottle- the quality of painting (it cant be scraped by the nail);

the bottles lid- the size, color, form, modeling mistakes; Fig 4.0 Fake Chanel No.5 the barcode- the number, size; the color of the perfume- dark spots, transparent, the colors consistency;

the perfumes liquidity- too much oil;

the smell of the perfume- stingy smell or unusual flavors;

the lasting of the smell- number of hours;

the skins reactions- scratches, spots, hives;

the place of buying- only from shops that guarantee the authenticity of the products and the returning of money.

Chapter 5: The perfume effects on health

In the last years, with the development of the consumers protection associations and with the growing of the interest for the quality of the consumed products and their implications on health, the first accusations against perfumes appeared.

The accusations intensified because the perfume producers are not obligated to inform the consumers about the chemical compositions of the perfumes. This reglementation is provided because of the commercial secret.

Among the most common affections are:

the contact allergy skin irritation followed by scratches and/or swallows. It is recommended for the persons with skin sicknesses (eczema, psoriasis) to avoid contact with the perfumed products

unleashed factors of the asthma crisis along with pollution, dust, furry company animals and cigarette smoke, there are also the perfumes

Other accusations against perfumes are related to their composition of phthalates, chemicals substances controversed in the last years. The ingredients from the perfumes, no matter that they have natural or artificial origin, they can cause health problems if they are used in big quantities. The allergies are the most common, but there are some ingredients that are said to be cancer givers. Also, some synthetic ingredients can cause hormonal problems, the endocrine system being greatly affected. Many chemicals from perfumes, usually the synthetic ones, are known as being toxic, some of them being used for insecticide also. Some of the compounds from the synthetic perfumes have been detected in human fat, and in the lactating women too. Among these groups of harmful chemical compounds, the ones that exist in perfumes are: phthalates and synthetic musk.

One of the most dangerous phthalates is diethyl phthlate or DEP. It is often used in the care taking products and perfumes as a solvent and a alcohol denaturant, being quickly absorbed in skin and metabolized by the organism. After some studies were made in 2004, it was discovered the fact that DEP can be found in a concentration of 30 times more in urine than in any other ester metabolized by the organism.

The biggest concentrations have been found in adult men and women as a following for the often usage of the care taking products. They are suspected as being responsible for modifying the DNA, pulmonary failure and infertility at men. The pregnant woman who was exposed at DEP, changes in the developing of the genital organs of the child or breast cancer were seen. Also, hyperactivity and behavior disorders of the children are in some way because of the mothers exposure during pregnancy to DEP.

The other group is the group of the synthetic musk. The natural musk is very expensive and hard to obtain, so some chemical synthesis substitutes have been made. Just like phthalates, they have been used in all of the care taking products to give a nice flavor of the product. So, the synthetic musk contaminates human blood and maternal milk, causes hormonal disorders and gynecological problems for women.

Because there is no law for the perfume and cosmetic producers to force them to show all the ingredients used on the label, Greenpeace paid an analyses laboratory to examine the content of phthalates and synthetic musk from some famous perfumes. Among the most dangerous ones were:

Calvin Klein Eternity for Women/Men;

Melvita Iris Blue;

Jean-Paul Gaultier Le Male;

Van Gils Van Gils;

Ralph Lauren Polo Blue;

Celine Dion Coty;

Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon;

Bvlgari Bvl Notte pour Homme;

Dior Poisson; Tommy Hilfinger True Star; Body Shop White Musk; Paco Rabanne XS Excess pour Homme;

FCUK Him.Chapter 6: The quality standards of perfume Quality is a set of properties and characteristics of a product or service that gives it the property to meet the needs expressed or implied. The examination of quality is made through some factors that perfume must have:1. The wrapping. The perfume must have a qualitative wrapper, from a qualitative cardboard who will have to meet the tough quality conditions.

2. The products code. On the sealed commercial product box there is a code that must be found on the products bottle also.

3. The persistence of the perfume. The most perfumes, once sprayed on a blotter, its smell must be maintained for 20-24 hour or sometimes even more, depending on the concentration and version of the product, be it perfume waiter or toilet water.4. The bottle. The glass for the perfume, just like the box, must meet very tough requirements imposed by the perfume producers. Some bottles are real works of art and they are very hard to make. So, it should be in perfect condition without imperfections, visible quality deficiencies or liquid leaks.5. The clearness of the perfume. If the perfume bottle is shook, the air bubbles that will appear must disappear in approximately 10 seconds. If not and the perfume is foamy, than it is a fake one.

6. Perfume without impurities. When shaken, the liquid inside must not have impurities at all, and instead be a clean one.

7. The window test. It is said that a qualitative perfume, of a balanced consistency and equipped with an original sprayer will not trickle when applied on a shiny surface. A simple spray on a window or a mirror can prove this test.

8. The price. All the original and from well-known brands perfumes have a high price. A cheap perfume does not always have a good quality.Conclusion

Perfumes today are being made and used in different ways than in previous centuries. Perfumes are being manufactured more and more frequently with synthetic chemicals rather than natural oils. Less concentrated forms of perfume are also becoming increasingly popular. Combined, these factors decrease the cost of the scents, encouraging more widespread and frequent, often daily, use.

Using perfume to heal, make people feel good, and improve relationships between the sexes are the new frontiers being explored by the industry. The sense of smell is considered a right brain activity, which rules emotions, memory, and creativity. Aromatherapysmelling oils and fragrances to cure physical and emotional problemsis being revived to help balance hormonal and body energy. The theory behind aromatherapy states that using essential oils helps bolster the immune system when inhaled or applied topically. Smelling sweet smells also affects one's mood and can be used as a form of psychotherapy.

Like aromatherapy, more research is being conducted to synthesize human perfumethat is, the body scents we produce to attract or repel other humans. Humans, like other mammals, release pheromones to attract the opposite sex. New perfumes are being created to duplicate the effect of pheromones and stimulate sexual arousal receptors in the brain. Not only may the perfumes of the future help people cover up "bad" smells, they could improve their physical and emotional well-being as well as their sex lives.

References

1. http://chanelperfumebottles.webs.com;

2. http://commons.wikipedia.org;

3. Odorante si aromatizante. Chimie, tehnologie, aplicatii- Victor Eliu-Ceausescu, Gheorghe Radoias, Traian Cadariu, Editura Tehnica, Bucuresti, 1988;

4. http://www.odore.com. Fig 1.3 Fragrance Wheel from HYPERLINK "http://commons.wikip" http://commons.wikipedia.org

Fig. 3.1(d) Fragrance Pyramid from http://commons.wikimedia.org

Fig 4.0 Fake Chanel No.5 from HYPERLINK "http://chanelperfumebottles.webs.com" http://chanelperfumebottles.webs.com

PAGE 20