Part 2: Textile/Apparel Building Blocks

Chapter 7

Textile Fabrics and Finishes

Objectives

Identify most common fabric constructions Describe main fabric finishing procedures Recognize importance of quality and

performance standards Summarize important aspects of the textile

industry Explain how finished fabrics are sold down

the chain Cite textile industry trade information Tell about future predictions for textiles

Fabric Design and Construction Two forms of design

Structural Design “Building in” texture

or interest during manufacturing process

Weaving and knitting most common

Applied Design Adding color, pattern,

or other features to the structural design

Printing on fabric

Fabric Construction Methods

Weaving Plain: crosshatch Plain: crosshatch

patternpattern Twill: diagonal Twill: diagonal

walewale Satin: floating Satin: floating

yarnsyarns

KnittingKnitting WeftWeft WarpWarp

Nonwoven FusedFused FeltedFelted FilmsFilms

Fabric Terms

Grain – direction yarns run in the fabric Lengthwise - warp Crosswise - weft Diagonal - bias

Selvage “Finished” weft

edge of fabric

SELVAGE

SELVAGE

BIAS

WARP

WEFT

CUT EDGE

Variations of Weaves

Stripes Checks Plaids Jacquard Pile fabrics

Terry cloth Corduroy Velvet

Knitting

Looping yarn together Made using one yarn

Built-in stretch Wrinkle resistant Does not ravel like

wovens, but may run

Weft (filling) stretches in both directions

Warp stretches one direction; run-proof

Nonwoven Fabrics

Compact web of fibers (not yarns) constructed using Moisture Heat Chemicals Friction Pressure

No grain

Other Construction Methods Laces and Nets

Made by knotting Decorative trim

Braids Decorative trims

Bonded fabrics Fusible web

Interfacing and hem tape

Quilted fabrics

Fabric Finishing Converters

Mills that change greige goods into finished fabrics

Applying colors, designs, or surface treatments Bleaching Dyeing Printing Finishes

Dyeing Fiber

Adding color to fibers before spinning into yarns

Yarn Placing yarns in dye bath

before making into fabric Piece

Fabrics dyed after weaving or knitting

Garment Dyed after construction

Printing Adding color, pattern, or design to surface of fabric

Overall prints Same across fabric

Directional prints Specific direction to

pattern Plaids

Even - same in warp and weft

Uneven - different in warp or weft

Printing Methods

Roller Applies color

design by roller

Screen Similar to stenciling

Rotary Screen Applies color

design by cylinder-shaped nylon screens

Heat Transfer Design on printed

paper transferred to fabric by heat and pressure

Digital Computer method

uses ink-jet printing

Flocking Fibers attached by

patterned glue

Fabric Finishes Mechanical finishes affect size and

appearance By heat, moisture, stretching, singeing Example: preshrinking

Chemical finishes affect performance Permanent press Waterproof or water repellent Flame resistant Antistatic Stain and soil resistant Release substances such as antibiotics or

insect repellants

Standards Quality

Rate textiles according to levels of defects

Performance Rate textiles for specific end-use

suitability Six Sigma

Measure and improve company’s statistical analysis to increase profits

The Textile Industry Specialized companies

perform stages of the textile segment of the chain

Technology necessary CAD/CAM

Fashion Tracking designs,

trends, forecasts Marketing

Planning, pricing, promoting, distributing

Selling Finished Fabrics Staple fabrics

Sold each year with little or no change in construction

Novelty fabrics Fashion fabrics that

change with style trends

Overruns When a mill makes

more fabric than was ordered by customers

Trade Information National Textile Association

Includes weavers, knitters, fabric-making companies, and firms that dye, print, and finish fabrics

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) Wet processing aspects

Future of Textiles Continued U.S. innovation Stay globally competitive

Fully automate plants Use computerized

methods to fill small orders for unique products

Increased knit production Textile firms need more

sophisticated marketing techniques

Do You Know . . . Colorfast means a

fabric's color will not change with time, use, or cleaning.

Hand is the term used for textiles that refers to the way fabrics feel to the touch. Hand may apply to drape, softness, firmness, crispness, or elasticity.