Overhand Knot - Rope/WebbingWebbing Overhand Loop on a Bight

Water KnotOverhand Bight with Webbing

Figure 8 on a BightFigure 8 Follow Through

Figure 8 Stopper KnotFigure 8 Bend

Double Fishermans

Triple Wrap Prusik Hitch

Triple wrapPrusik Hitch

Butterfly Knot

Square Knot

Seat Harness

Wrap 3 Pull 2High-Strength Tie-Off

Radium Release Hitch

Break Bar Rack

Low Angle Litter tie-inBelay Line System

Main Line Lower and Raise System

Main Line System from Lower to Raise

Main Line System from Raise to Lower

Reference 1Rope Construction

Reference 2Static Rope / Hardware

Reference 3 Dynamic Rope use / Knot Strength

Reference 4Anchor Angle / Load

Reference 5Anchor Angle / Load

Reference 6Force on Anchors / Low & High Angle Risk

Reference 7Pulling Force

Reference 8Rope Fiber Chart

Characteristics

Rope Fiber Comparison Chart

Resistance to Degradation

1=Best 6+Poorest Nylon PolyesterPoly-

propylenePoly-

ethylene Kevlar Spectra

Strength 3 4 5 6 2 1

Shock force absorption 1 5 3 4 6

Abrasion resistance 3 2 4 5 6

Flexing endurance 1 2 4 5 6

Wet strength (%) 85 98 100 105 100

2

1

3

100

Floats/sinks sinks sinks floats floats sinks floats

Specific gravity 1.14 1.38 0.91 0.95 1.44 0.97

Water absorbion (%) 6 <1 0 0 0 0

Low working temp (˚F) -70 -70 -20 -100 -100 -200

Elongation at break (%) 15-28 12-15 18-22 20-24 1.5-3.6 2.7-3.5

Sticky point (F˚) 250 275 200 150 350 150

Melting point (F˚) 480 500 330 285 800 297

Creep 4 2 5 6 1 3

Sunlight UV Good Excellent Poor Fair Fair Excellent

Acids Poor Excellent Excellent Excellent Good Excellent

Alkalis Good Poor Good Good Good Excellent

Oil and gas Good Good Good Good Good Good

Elect. conductivity resist. Poor Good Good Good Good Good

Source: Compiled from Cordage Institute Information and Wellington Puritan rope and fiber comparison

Reference 9Marin County Sheriff's Search and RescueTeam Technical Rescue Protocol

SYSTEMSHigh angle evolution:• lowering – use brake bar rack• hauling – use Z-rig (pig-rig can be an option where necessary, with appropriate experience)• belay – use tandem prusiks

Low angle evolution:• litter going down – use brake bar rack• litter going up – use single prusik

COMMANDS• for a typical high angle evolution (individual situations may requires variations)

once rigging is complete1) rescue team leader: stop, safety check2) edge tender/rescue team leader: rescuer ready?3) rescuer: ready?4) edge tender: on belay?5) belayer: belay on6) edge tender: ready to lower?7) lower (station): ready8) edge tender: lower away slowly9) lower: lowering10) rescuer: stop, reached subject11) edge tender: stop12) edge tender: lock lower13) lower: lower locked14) edge tender: lock belay15) belayer: belay locked16) edge tender: rescuer ready?17) rescuer: ready18) edge tender: on belay?19) belayer: belay on20) edge tender: ready to haul?21) closest hauler: ready22) edge tender: tension haul line23) edge tender: release prusik24) prusik tender: prusik released25) edge tender: haul away slowly26) closest hauler: hauling27) edge tender: stop28) edge tender: set prusik29) prusik tender: prusik set30) edge tender: resetting31) edge tender: slack haul line slowly32) edge tender: take a bight33) repeat steps 16-2634) edge tender: rescuer(s) and subject safe (past dead line)35) rescuer: off belay36) belayer: belay off

ADDITIONAL COMMANDS:• anyone at anytime: stop (+why stop) -everyone holds position, no rope movement -after a ‘stop’ and the situation is resolved, return to step 2• anyone at anytime: rock (refers to anything falling over the edge/from above) -those below hold head level so their helmets protect them; DO NOT LOOK UP• edge tender always relays commands between rescuer and rope team when direct communication between the two is not possible• slack: feed out rope (e.g. slack haul line, slack belay, tension lower)• tension: pull on rope (e.g. tension haul line, tension belay, tension lower)• rope: rope coil thrown (e.g. over a cliff edge)• dead line: only those who are anchored go beyond this point

Reference of Illistrations and InformationRecommended Reading

On Rope North American Vertical Rope Techniquesby Bruce Smith and Allen PadgettIllustrations by Ron Buffington

Alpine Operationsby Mark V. Lonsdale

Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills 6th Editionby The Mountaineersedited by Don Graydon and Kurt Hanson

Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systemsby Michael G. Brown

Rope Rescue Manualby James A. Frank and Jerrold B. Smith

The Handbook of Knotsby Des Pawson

Technical Rescue Riggers Guideby Rick Lipke

Rope Rescue Manual CMC Field Guide 3rd Editionby CMC

The Complete Guide to Rope Technequesby Nigel Shepherd