O R N A M E N T A LG A R D E N

P O O L S�

A N R - 7 8 9

A l a b a m a C o o p e r a t i v e E x t e n s i o n S y s t e mA l a b a m a A & M a n d A u b u r n U n i v e r s i t i e s

O R N A M E N T A LG A R D E N

P O O L S�

Ornamental pools, long common in the Orient,are becoming very popular in the United

States. The soothing, visual beauty of pools isenhanced by aquatic plants, the ever-changingview of fish swimming among these plants, andthe play of light and shadows reflected in thewater. Pools can be found in private back-yards, public parks, hotel lobbies, mallcourtyards, restaurants, apartment bal-conies, and even basements in colder cli-mates. In Japan, where ornamental poolshave been popular for centuries, pooland garden designs are highly artistic.Some Japanese extend the pool into theirliving rooms where fish watching becomesa restful evening activity.

Little replicated research has been conduct-ed on ornamental pools, therefore most of theinformation discussed herein is from relatedresearch areas and practical observation. Thispublication is intended to assist in understandingthe requirements of fish within these miniatureaquatic environments and in evaluating optionsin pool design.

P O O LL O C A T I O N ,S I Z E , A N D

T Y P ELocation of the pool can be critical, not only to

its owner’s enjoyment but to the maintenanceand biological performance of the pool. Site yourornamental pool to receive a minimum of 6 hoursof sunlight each day. Sunlight is needed for pho-tosynthesis by pool plants including algae, which

provide oxygen to the pool. Abundant oxygenmeans a healthy environment for fish and otherorganisms in the pool. Locate your pool to avoiddirect sunlight at mid-day during the warmestmonths. Fish can become stressed by high tem-peratures unless shade is provided by aquatic

plants. For indoor pools, lights are availablethat simulate natural daylight.

Several advantages to locating the poolwithin view of the house are: • To enhance human enjoyment.• To more easily supervise childrenplaying around the pool. But, be sure to

take precautions, such as controllingaccess, to ensure the safety of children.

• To help you spot and ward-off predators,such as birds, raccoons, snakes, or that rare

human thief.

• To reduce expense of pipes, electrical hook-ups, and pumping, which are usually lower forpools built close to the house.

If you plan to excavate rather than build anaboveground pool, check with utility companieson the location of underground gas, water, sewer,and electrical lines. Do not locate a pool aboveutility services. Pools should not be locateddirectly under trees, as their roots hamper exca-vation and may eventually cause structural dam-age to the pool. Also, leaves can foul the waterand over-hanging branches may exude toxic sub-stances into the pool.

Pool depths may vary depending on local cli-mate and over-wintering management. Manypools are only 18 to 24 inches deep. Most of theseshallow pools will require heaters in winter or theplants and fish will need to be moved indoors.Most permanent outdoor pools should have a

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Table 1. Typical Construction Materials For Ornamental Pools.Pool Type Advantanges Disadvantages Special Considerations

Earthen Inexpensive, Seepage; Soil must be high clay.especially for wild plants larger pools. may establish.

Flexible liners Ease of construction. Possible punctures; Type of liner will de-must be pumped or termine lifetime,siphoned to drain. usually 10 to 20 years.

Fiberglass or plastic Durable—long life; Shallow, not year- Very small pools; good for plant-only round habitat for fish. could be moved insidepools. Can crack if water during the winter.

freezes.

Concrete Very long life; can Expensive; must be May need coating withadd decorative tiles. cured. Epoxy or pool paint

to stop leaching ofminerals.

portion at least 3 or 4 feet deep. This allows thefish an area deep enough to resist most winterfreezes and a cool retreat during hot weather. Koicarp, in particular, tend to lose color andbecome stressed if they do not have a coolplace to retreat to during hot weather.However, a depth of 18 inches is suffi-cient in the deep South, as long as only afew fish are stocked and plenty of float-ing aquatic plants are provided forshade.

Ponds are built out of several types ofmaterials. Some of the more common con-struction materials are earth, plastic liners,fiberglass, and concrete (Table 1).

Many commercial firms selling pool equip-ment offer consulting services on design, con-struction, and maintenance. Use available exper-tise and your own creativity to design a pool thatreflects your own imagination and taste.

E Q U I P M E N TA N D C O S T S

Pools can be relatively expensive to build andmaintain, although many beginners start with lit-tle expense by using an old wash tub or a child’swading pool. Construction costs for most poolscan range from several hundred to several thou-sand dollars depending on size, depth, materialsused, and labor. Labor costs can be reduced bydoing the work yourself or acting as back-up laborfor the professionals you hire.

List Of Possible Pool Equipment And Materials• Pipes, drain structures, nets, buckets.• Spare tanks for acclimating and isolating fish,

feed, chemicals, brushes, and test kits tomeasure oxygen, pH, etc.

• Electrical hookups, lights, pumps.• Filters: biological or mechanical, filtermedia such as zeolite or charcoal.• Sand or stone overlays or borders.• Fountain, waterfall, aerator.

• Plants, plant enclosures.Consult ornamental fish specialists or

dealers of ornamental pool materials for assis-tance. Draw up a detailed plan so that a specialistcan suggest specific improvements or spot poten-tial pitfalls. A word of advice: Most pool ownersregret not building their pools larger.

PERMITS

Constructions plans should be reviewed bylocal governmental departments (for example,Building and Zoning) to ensure that the proposedsystem complies with all building codes: water,drainage, and electrical requirements. Permitsmay be required.

POOLCONSTRUCTION

Construction of a backyard pool can be simpleor complex. Pools built on site of fiberglass orconcrete take considerable construction skills.Earthen and plastic-lined pools require less con-struction skill or experience.

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Pools may be irregular or geometric in shape.Irregularly shaped pools have a natural look,while the geometric shapes appear more formal.Try designing different pool shapes by using agarden hose or rope to outline the pool edgesprior to excavation.

Before you start to dig, plan how pipes, filters,fountains, or water heaters will be concealed.Decide where electrical and water lines should beplaced for night lighting, pumps, fountains, orwaterfalls. This is also the time to set foundationsfor such structures as stepping stones, a walkingbridge, or the base of a fountain.

Pools without drains are common, particularlythose with liners, but a drain allows for easiermanagement. Draining facilitates cleaning andfish removal in cases of maintenance or diseaseproblems. Of course, pools can be drained bypumping or, in some cases, siphoning. Beforebuilding the pool, plan how the pool will bedrained. Draining into city sewer lines or a stormdrain is probably legal, but draining onto aneighbor’s property is not. When in doubtconsult local government agencies.

An important consideration whenconstructing a pool is to make sure thebottom slopes at least 1 percent (1 footdecline per 100-foot distance) so thewater will drain. A catch basin, usually 6to 12 inches deep, in the deepest part ofthe pool will help concentrate the fish dur-ing draw-down. Remember, the drain, pump,or siphon intake should be covered with mesh sono fish will escape during draw-down.

Pools that are at least two-thirds below groundlevel retain heat in cold weather and keep thepool cooler in hot weather. Pools that are builttotally aboveground may have to be drained dur-ing the winter, requiring that fish and plants bemoved indoors.

Excavated pools can have problems fromwater run-off. First, care should be taken duringconstruction so that run-off water does not flowinto the pool. If the surrounding terrain is higherthan the pool, a berm may be required to controlrun-off. Run-off water can introduce chemicalcontaminants or cause muddiness or oxygenproblems. Secondly, rain water saturation of thesoil under the pool may cause the pool to over-flow or float out of the ground. To prevent thisproblem, you will need a special under-pooldrainage or water-pressure relief system. Consultthe USDA Soil Conservation Service on soil char-

acteristics in your area.Liners are very popular because of their versa-

tility. Liners allow for relatively quick and lessexpensive construction and allow future changesin size or shape of the pool.

Vertical pool sides can erode rapidly and letdetritus (dirt, leaves, etc.) build up along the edgeof the pool bottom. Tiered or sloping sidesencourage movement of detritus toward thedeepest part of the pool where the material canbe drained or siphoned out. The pool sidesshould be cut in two or three tiers, each about 12inches wide. Tiers help to hold liners in place aswell as to provide ledges for plants and other dec-orative items. To protect a liner from puncture byroots and rocks, the dirt along the pool sides andbottom should be covered with sand prior toinstalling the liner. Firmly pack the pool sides andbottom, especially if liners are used. Smooth thepool corners so they will not become detritus traps.

Borders that overhang the water by 1 to 2 inch-es are visually pleasing and help conceal liner

edges and hide openings to equipment. Thepool’s exterior borders may be decoratedwith washed sand or rocks. Aquaticplants such as lilies, lotus, hyacinths,reeds, and submerged plants add to theaesthetic beauty of the pool and func-tion as biological filters and shade for

fish in the pool.In building the pool, remember that

water will be level but your construction maynot be. Unless leveling is accurate during con-struction, you may end up with an exposed areaat one end of the pool and water about to over-flow the other end. Make sure the shoreline ofyour pool is level!

For advice on construction, consult a profes-sional pool builder or plumbing contractor. Foradvice on filters, consult an ornamental fish deal-er, pool builder, or Extension fisheries specialist.

POOL DECORATIONS

Part of the fun of owning an ornamental pool isdesigning the overall look of the pool and its sur-roundings. The materials used can be as varied asyour imagination. Consider rocks of varying col-ors and shapes, railroad ties, fountains, waterfalls,windmills, underwater lighting, islands, bridges,aquatic plants, and surrounding flower gardens.Some garden designers create spaces using arch-es, gates, fences, and even gazebos. One type of

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traditional Japanese garden is made by rakingsand of various shades of one color into a varietyof designs.

good quality water supply adequate to fill thepool. The most common sources are city waterand well water. Surface water from a creek orpond is not recommended as it may contain cont-aminants, diseases, or wild fish, any of which mayharm the pool’s ecosystem. If city water is used, itmust be dechlorinated. One week of sunlight (orless, if continuously aerated) will dechlorinate citywater if the chlorine source is liquid or gaseouschlorine. If the chlorine source is chloramine, it isbest removed by chemical dechlorination.Commercial dechlorinators made from sodiumthiosulfate are available in liquid or pelletedforms from most aquarium and pool suppliers.

WATER VOLUME AND WEIGHT

Water volume of the pool must be determinedbefore selecting a filter or pump or performing achemical treatment. Knowing the pool’s waterweight is very important before placing a free-

standing pool on a patio, roof, or on the livingroom floor. Be careful, check your structur-

al support, because water is very heavy.For information on calculating area andvolume request Southern RegionalAquaculture Center (SRAC) PublicationNo. 103, “Calculating Area and Volumeof Ponds and Tanks,” by M. P. Masser

and J. W. Jensen, from your countyExtension agent.

WATER QUALITY

Water quality is always a concern in any type ofaquatic management. Water quality factors ofcommon concern are dissolved oxygen, ammo-nia, nitrite, pH, alkalinity, hardness, carbon diox-ide, and contaminants or pollutants (like pesti-cides). Not all of these factors deserve equal con-sideration. The following is a brief discussion oftheir importance as applied to ornamental pools.

The amount of oxygen that will dissolve inwater (D.O.) is very small and is measured in partsper million (ppm). The amount of oxygen in apool can range from 0 ppm to more than 20 ppm.Oxygen dissolves directly into the pool from theair if the water is agitated (by wind, waterfalls,etc.) or from underwater plants, which excreteoxygen as a byproduct of photosynthesis.Decorative underwater plants produce oxygen.The amount of oxygen in the pool will vary,depending on the amount of agitation, numbers

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W A T E R

WATER SOURCE

Whether your ornamental pool is a plastic tubor a backyard wonder with waterfalls and hiddenlights, good water quality must be maintained. Ifnot, the pool declines in beauty and the fishbecome stressed and susceptible to diseases.Once the basics of water quality are understoodand practiced, maintenance will become secondnature and require only a few hours per week.

The first consideration is the availability of a

Statuary fountains

are common in formal

pool designs.

of fish and plants, time of day, and water temper-ature. More oxygen can dissolve in cool waterthan in warm. As temperature increases in thesummer, fish increase their metabolism and lessoxygen will be dissolved in the pool, particularlyat night when underwater plants are also usingoxygen in respiration. Fish will become severelystressed at less than 3 ppm D.O. and will die ifoxygen concentrations fall near 1 ppm.

Pool nutrients come from fish feed, wastes,decomposing leaves (etc.), and from fertilizersapplied to pool plants. In a well-balanced pool,ornamental plants will remove nutrients rapidlyand suppress algal growth. Excessive nutrientsstimulate rapid algal growth or blooms. The cling-ing, filamentous kind of algae are not the problemthat the free-floating blooms are. Algal bloomsquickly become a nuisance, causing the water tobecome a cloudy green and restricting the view offish. Dense algal blooms may cause oxygen deple-tions at night or during extended cloudy weather.Mechanical aeration, such as water falls orfountains, can maintain minimum dissolvedoxygen concentrations and remove excesscarbon dioxide. Still, excessive algalblooms should be controlled.

• The best method to control algalblooms is to avoid over-stocking andover-feeding of fish or over-fertilizingpool plants.

• Another common management strate-gy is to either increase decorative plants or usebio-filters to remove excess nutrients on whichalgae flourish.

• A third method is to replace or flush waterthrough the pool to dilute nutrients and dispersealgae.

Ammonia is the major nitrogen waste excretedby fish. Certain types of bacteria decompose ornitrify ammonia to nitrite. Ammonia and nitriteare both toxic to fish but are seldom problems inornamental pools. These compounds are normal-ly removed from the water by pool plants andused as nutrients for growth. Ammonia andnitrite can become problems if the pool is over-fed, over-fertilized, or from rapid decompositionof organic matter (leaves, dead plants, fish, etc.).Remove excess ammonia and nitrite by biofiltra-tion (see Filtration section), by flushing, or byadditions of bacterial water conditioners.

The pH is measured on a scale from 0 to 14with 7 being neutral (less than 7 acidic, more than7 basic). Pool pH cycles daily because of photo-

synthesis and respiration of plants and otherorganisms. Under normal conditions, pool pHcan fluctuate from 6.5 to 9 without harming fish.A pH much above or below this range will stressor even kill fish. If the pH is fluctuating above orbelow 6.5 to 9, the pool needs buffers added toincrease the alkalinity.

Alkalinity is a measure of bases in water and istherefore related to pH. Alkalinity is measured inppm (or mg/l) and can range from 0 to more than300 ppm. Sufficient alkalinity buffers or resists pHchanges. Alkalinity can be increased in the poolby adding carbonates (agricultural limestone,oyster shell, or bicarbonate of soda). In general,an alkalinity of greater than 20 ppm is consideredadequate, but 50 ppm or greater is better.

If you suspect any chemical contamination ofthe water, you can perform a simple bioassayusing a few fish. Place 3 or 4 small fish in a min-now bucket and float it in the pool for 24 hours inan area that gets some circulation but no direct

sunlight. If no deaths occur, the water is prob-ably not contaminated. Use fish that look

healthy to minimize the risk of introduc-ing diseases into the pool. Do not setthese fish free into the pool unless theyare specific individuals you want stockedinto the pool. Once you release fish intothe pool it will be very difficult to remove

them without draining the pool.

FILTRATION

Not all pools need filtration. Pools with abun-dant plants and a modest number of fish shouldnot need filtration. The key is to maintain waterquality and relatively clear water so your fish canbe seen and enjoyed. Again, ornamental plantsare active biological filters, and, if a balance ismaintained between the number of plants, thenumber of fish, and the amount of nutrients thepool receives, no other filtration may be neces-sary. Keeping the proper balance is as much anart as a science. For this reason, many pool own-ers become frustrated with trying to maintain bal-ance and opt for additional filtration.

The two basic types of filters are mechanicaland biological.

• Mechanical filters remove or trap particlesof dirt and organic matter. Typical mechanical fil-ters include leaf skimmers, sand beds, foam orcartridge filters, and settling basins. Leaf skim-mers, foam filters, or some type of settling basinare the most commonly used mechanical filters.

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Sand filters and cartridge filters, likethose used in swimming pools or hottubs, are not generally used in ornamentalpools because they clog or channel quicklyand require fairly large volumes of water forback-washing.

• Biological filtration removes excess nitrogenproduced from fish wastes and decomposition oforganic matter. Natural biological filtrationcomes from nutrient removal by plants, algae,and bacteria. Decorative plants remove nutrientsand slow water currents that cause suspendedparticles to fall out of the water column.

Bacteria also remove nutrients, but only if pro-vided with the proper substrate and environment.Bacterial bio-filters are becoming common inornamental pools, particularly those in which fishare the major attraction. Bio-filters require littlemaintenance if properly designed and installed.

Bacterial bio-filters rely on bacterial growth toclean the water of wastes. Bio-filters contain layersof gravel or coarse sand, corrugated plastic sheets,plastic rings, mesh, or foam, or some other materi-al as a substrate or media on which bacteria grow.Like plants, the bacteria remove wastes as nutri-ents for growth. Bio-filters operate best at a pH of

7 to 7.5 and an alkalinity of around 50ppm. Adjustments in pH and alkalinity

can be done using agricultural limestone,oyster shell, and bicarbonate of soda.Under-gravel filters, common in aquariums,

are one of the simplest types of bio-filters. In thesefilters, the gravel acts as a mechanical filter and iscolonized by bacteria. Large gravel filters can bebuilt into the pool bottom or into the bed of astream or brook that flows into the pool. The prob-lem with gravel filters is that they become cloggedwith solids and require laborious cleaning.

A common type of in-pond filter uses plasticmedia and foam surrounding or connected to asubmersible pump to accomplish both mechani-cal and biological filtration (Figure 1). The pumpdraws water through the filter media, trappingsediment and providing an area for bacteria togrow. This type of filter requires that you removesediment periodically and clean the foam every 1or 2 days. Sediment should not be allowed tobuild up in the bottom of the filter.

An up-flow bio-filter is another popular design(Figure 2). As the name indicates, water enters thefilter from the bottom and exits through the top.Stainless steel or plastic mesh is used to hold the

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Bacteria on substrate of

biological filtersremove nutrients

and improve water quality.

bio-filter media off the bottom and it thuscreates a sediment basin. Plastic beadsand other coarse media are colonized bybacteria. Plants can be added to the sur-face of the filter for added nutrientremoval. Up-flow filters are usually self-

contained and separate from the pool.Other designs for bio-filters can be

found in aquaculture and ornamental poolpublications but are beyond the scope of thispublication.

F I S HOne common mistake made by novice orna-

mental pool owners is to stock too many fish.Many people do not consider the number of fishthe pool can safely support and that fish grow. Apool is suitable for fish as long as it can supplyadequate oxygen and decompose the wastes.Most of the fish commonly placed in ornamentalpools grow rapidly and may keep on growingunless they are kept on a limited diet.

Pool carrying capacity, or number of fish thepool can support, varies, depending on a varietyof factors. These factors include size of pool, tem-perature, amount of sunlight the pool receives(which influences oxygen levels), whether aera-tion is provided, and how well the filtration sys-tem removes wastes. The stocking rate, or num-

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PlasticMedia

SubmersiblePump

PlasticContainer

FilterMedia

ProtectiveScreen

Return to Waterfallor fountain

In-Pond Mechanical/Bio Filter(Side View)

Figure 1. In-pond Filter with submersible pump.

PlasticNettingWater

ReturnTo Pond

AquaticPlants

SolidsRemoval

Bio Media

SedimentChamber

ThickFlo-ThruNetting

WaterInput

WaterLevel

Upflow Bio Filter(Side View)

Figure 2. Up-flow biofilter.

ber of fish to put in the pool, should notexceed the pool’s estimated carryingcapacity. The following examples givestocking rates recommended by fish hob-byist magazines.

First, determine the pool’s surface area insquare feet. Stock an unaerated pool with one12-inch fish (not including the tail) per 4.5 squarefeet of surface area. Stock an aerated pool withone fish per 2 to 3 square feet. Conservative hob-byists suggest stocking only 1 to 6 inches of fishper 5 square feet of surface or 8 to 12 inches offish per 16.5 square feet of surface area.

For example, if a pool measures 9 x 15 feet, thesurface area is 135 square feet. Dividing 135square feet by 4.5 square feet = 30, the units of 12-inch fish bodies per unit, or 360 inches total. Theaverage adult koi carp is 18 inches, so this 9- x 15-foot pool can support 20 adult koi carp. Topexhibitors in Japan stock only 10 to 15 koi even inlarge pools, while the majority of koi owners tendto slightly over stock.

KINDS OF FISHFish commonly stocked into ornamental pools

belong to either the goldfish or the koi family.There are numerous varieties of these fish.

Early references to the common gold-fish are found in Chinese poetry as earlyas 1,000 A.D. The Chinese and Japanesenobility led the way in developing many

of the varieties we see today, most ofwhich had been developed by the sixteenth

century.Common and fancy goldfish are the same

species (Carassius auratus). The common gold-fish, shubunkin (or calico), comet, and fantailgoldfish have body structures similar to the wildform. What makes these varieties distinct are dif-ferences in coloration or fin shape. Members ofthe goldfish family, which vary from the wild formin both body structures and fin shape, include thenymph, fringetail, and veiltail goldfish.Additionally, there are strange varieties that havemarkedly altered bodies bordering on thegrotesque, such as the eggfish, tiger-head, lion-head, circled gill, and bubble-eyed goldfish.

Koi carp are descendants of the Europeancommon carp (Cyprinus carpio). Koi is a Japaneseword meaning “love,” and koi-giving in Japanapproximates the meaning of flower giving in theWest. Koi have been bred in Japan since at least300 A.D. They are a very popular ornamental fishbecause of their wide variety of colors and colorpatterns. Each color and pattern combination on

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Colorful koi are popular

pool residents.

Decorative plants, just like other gar-den plants, will need periodic pruning,

dividing, repotting, and fertilizing.Caution: Some plants overpopulate quickly

and are best grown in containers.Plants may need to be protected from the fish

by surrounding them with wire or plastic mesh(see Enclosures: Use and Design). Choose plantsthat will not drop debris into the pool, sinceorganic matter can clog filters and deplete oxygenas it decays. Many aquatic plants of tropical ori-gin, like hyacinths, won’t survive winter freezesand must be brought indoors. Hardy aquaticplants such as water lilies and water iris are win-terized by cutting off the growth and placing thepots in the pool below the freeze line. Check withthe ornamental plant dealer as to the best carepractices for the plants.

ENCLOSURES: USEAND DESIGN

Many people construct ornamental pools forthe beauty and variety of aquatic plants that canbe grown and do not stock fish at all. If you desireboth, aquatic plants will need to be protectedwhen combined with plant-eating fish like koi

the koi is given a distinctive Japanese name. Themost prized koi have the brightest, most intensecolors, the sharpest color definitions, and themost distinctive placement of markings. Koi withexceptional coloration and patterning can be val-ued at thousands of dollars per fish.

Pool owners should be aware that koi can growquite large and sometimes live for 60 or 70 years.These fish can truly be lifelong pets and then bepassed on as family heirlooms.

ACCLIMATING THE FISH

AT STOCKING

First, inspect the fish carefully before purchaseto be sure that they appear healthy (see diseaseand stress sections). Fish must be stocked cor-rectly if they are to remain healthy. When stock-ing, it is necessary to acclimate the fish to thetemperature and pH of the pool water. To do this,float the transport bag containing fish in the poolfor 10 to 15 minutes. Keep the bag out ofdirect sunlight, because a plastic bag actslike a magnifying glass and will rapidlyheat the water inside. Next, open the bagand slowly splash water from the poolinto the bag. Check the water tempera-ture in the bag and pool with a ther-mometer or your fingers. Once the watertemperatures are the same or within 2 or 3degrees, release the fish into the pool. It isbest to dip the fish out of the bag to eliminateadding the transport water to the pool. The fishshould swim away and behave normally.

A Q U A T I CP L A N T S

Aquatic plants not only add beauty to an orna-mental pool but are also effective filters and nutri-ent absorbers. Plants, like sagittaria or anacharas(elodea), come in a bunch and are submergedinto the pool in areas with water movement.These multiply quickly, filtering and oxygenatingthe water. Plants such as water lilies, reeds, lotus,and primrose remain potted and are submergedin the pool to the proper depth. Plants likehyacinths float with roots free to absorb nutrients.Water hyacinths are efficient filters if they arefloated in 6 to 8 inches of water with water flow-ing through their root mass.

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Aquatic plants add beauty

and improve water quality.

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carp. Wire or plastic net enclosures work well.These enclosures may also serve as sanctuariesfor smaller fish and to protect any eggs spawned.Enclosures also can be used to manage fish.Multiple feedings (three or four per day) of koiwill reduce their destruction of plants.

Enclosures for potted plants are often con-structed from stiff plastic mesh attached to theplant container and extended to the water’s sur-face. It is important to extend the mesh to the sur-face or fish may invade the enclosure. The plasticmesh diameter should be a 1⁄2-inch or smaller.

A simple enclosure for floating plants can bebuilt from PVC or polypropylene (poly) pipe andplastic mesh. The PVC or poly pipe is made into afloat by cutting it to the desired dimensions andshape using 90-degree or 45-degree PVC pipeelbows and tubing connectors for poly pipe. A bagmade of the plastic mesh is then glued onto thePVC frame. Use hot glue for gluing the plasticmesh to the PVC.

FEEDING FISH

As mentioned before, over-feeding is one of themost common problems in ornamental pools.Fish can be fed for either growth or maintenance.If you want the fish to grow rapidly you may haveto either stock fewer fish or increase the pool’s fil-tering capacity. Once the fish have reached thedesired size, reduce feeding to a maintenancediet. Estimate proper feeding rate either byweighing a sample of fish periodically to find anaverage weight per fish (this can be very stressfulto the fish) or by approximating their weightbased on their length (Table 2). One word of cau-tion: fish should consume feed quickly (within 5minutes); in warm weather, never feed more thanthe fish will eat within 15 minutes. If the fish donot consume all the food within 15 minutes, youare probably over-feeding or the fish are understress or have a disease. Note, feeding activitymay decline rapidly when temperatures dropquickly.

Table 2. Approximate Length To Weight Relationships For Carp And Goldfish.

Total Carp Goldfishlength weight per 10 individual weight per 10 individual

(inches) fish weight fish weight(pounds) (ounces/grams) (pounds) (ounces/grams)

2 0.08 0.13/3.6 0.05 0.08/2.32.5 0.14 0.22/6.4 0.09 0.14/4.1 3 0.22 0.35/10 0.17 0.27/7.73.5 0.33 0.53/15 0.25 0.40/11.34 0.47 0.75/21.3 0.40 0.64/18.14.5 0.65 1.04/29.55 0.85 1.36/38.65.5 1.09 1.74/49.46 1.37 2.19/62.16.5 1.67 2.69/75.87 2.06 3.29/93.47.5 2.47 3.95/112.48 2.93 4.69/132.98.5 3.44 5.50/156.0 9 3.99 6.38/181.09.5 4.60 7.36/208.7

10 5.27 8.43/239.111 6.77 10.83/307.112 8.51 13.62/386.013 10.50 16.80/476.214 12.76 20.42/578.815 15.74 25.18/714.016 19.03 30.45/863.217 22.96 36.7/1042.518 27.47 44.0/1246.019 32.33 51.7/1466.520 37.76 60.4/1712.8

A feeding rate of approximately 3 percent ofbody weight per day during warm weather(water temperatures above 70°F) will pro-mote rapid fish growth (see Table 3). Youmay not want rapid fish growth.

Maintenance feeding is calculated as 1percent of the average fish body weightmultiplied by the number of fish, butfeed only 5 days per week. Remember, ona maintenance diet the idea is not to pro-mote growth but to sustain the fish and keepthem healthy. Usually some growth will occur ona maintenance diet.

If the fish grow too large and surpass the carry-ing capacity, remove some of them. Pools pushedbeyond the carrying capacity will eventually haveproblems, such as heavy algal blooms, diseases,or oxygen depletions.

Feeding should be reduced at water tempera-tures above 90°F. At high temperatures fish do notfeed well and are easily stressed by poor waterquality. Also, do not feed fish at water tempera-tures below 45°F. Fish do not feed at lower tem-peratures because their metabolism decreases.Uneaten feed can create water quality problems.It is a good practice to remove uneaten feed.

P R O B L E M S I NP O O L S

WATER QUALITYPROBLEMS

The two most common water quality problemsare oxygen depletions and the build-up of toxicnitrogenous wastes.

Oxygen depletions occur because the totalamount of plant and animal life has exceeded

the carrying capacity of the pool or becauseof an excessive rate of decomposition. Fish

gasping at the surface is almost a suresign of an oxygen depletion. Aeration,the best management for oxygen deple-tions, should begin immediately; thenthe cause of the depletion should bedetermined.

The other common water quality prob-lem is the accumulation of toxic wastes such

as ammonia and nitrites. This problem occursbecause of over-feeding, rapid decomposition, orbiofiltration failure. When high ammonia ornitrite concentrations are discovered, reduce orstop feeding, flush with good quality water, andcheck the mechanical or biological filters.

ALGAE CONTROL

If the algal bloom starts to cut down on visibili-ty, the natural tendency is to treat with herbi-cides. This is not recommended as it can easilykill fish if the herbicide is not applied properly, orif the decaying algae depletes oxygen. Herbicidesmay also kill the decorative aquatic plants in thepool. A heavy algal bloom is usually a sign that thepool contains too many nutrients derived fromfish wastes, uneaten feed, or over-fertilization. Totreat the problem, you may want to flush the poolwith fresh water, reduce feeding or fertilization,add additional aquatic plants or nitrifying bacte-ria, or reduce the number of fish in the pool.

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Table 3. Feeding Rates Based On Water Temp-erature For Growth Versus Maintenance Rations.

Water Growth MaintenanceTemperature Ration Ration

(°F) (% body wt/day) (% body wt/daya)

Fish Less than 1⁄2 Pound> 90 1.0 0

70 - 90 3.0 1.060 - 69 2.0 0.550 - 59 1.0 0.245 - 49 0.5 0

< 45 0 0Fish Greater than 1⁄2 Pound

> 90 1.5 070 - 90 3.0 1.060 - 69 2.5 0.750 - 59 1.0 0.545 - 49 0.5 0.2

< 45 0 0aFeed only 5 days per week.

Large fish should be fed

a maintenanceration.

infect fish. To have a diseased fish diagnosed, youmay send a live, diseased specimen to the nearestfish disease lab or contact a veterinarian who hastraining in fish diseases. Circular ANR-562,“Guidelines for Collecting and Shipping DiseasedFish,” by M. P. Masser and Y. J. Brady, is availablethrough your county Extension office. Pool own-ers should be warned that most fish are sacrificedin the diagnostic procedure.

STRESS ON FISH

Stress is a reaction to unusual conditions. Thisincludes extreme high or low temperatures, rapidtemperature or pH changes, high ammonia ornitrite concentrations, low oxygen, high carbondioxide, crowding, handling, excessive particu-lates, and poor nutrition. Stress can be reducedthrough good management, including properstocking and feeding, careful handling, and main-taining good water quality.

PREDATORS ANDOTHER COMMON

NUISANCES

Predation by people, birds, raccoons,snakes, and other animals is a problemthat cannot be eliminated entirely, butthere are some precautions that should

be practiced. Fences around the poolmay reduce some predation by animals

like raccoons and otters. Netting over thepool will discourage birds but will detract from

the pool’s beauty.Turtles eat water lilies and other vegetation

and should be removed from the pool. Also beaware that a few toads can lay lots of eggs and theresulting tadpoles can deplete oxygen from thepool. Watch the pool and discourage animal nui-sances.

Mosquitoes can be a problem in pools withoutfish or in pools choked with aquatic plants. If youhave a mosquito problem, add fish, removeexcess plants and detritus, or add Bacillusthuringiensis (B.t.) to control mosquito larvae.

In conclusion, an ornamental pool provides awonderful opportunity to enjoy the natural beau-ty of plants and fish and gain a better understand-ing of the complexities and interactions of aquaticcommunities. It also provides an outlet for cre-ative expression in the design of the pool and itssurroundings and enables urban dwellers to add aserene, natural environment to their yards.

CONTROLLING FISHREPRODUCTION

Another common problem in ornamentalpools is controlling fish reproduction. Over-popu-lating the pool with fish will generally limit fishgrowth, reduce water quality, and jeopardize theoverall health of all the fish. Usually the eggs or frywill be eaten by fish or aquatic insects. But, evenif only a few survive, the pool will slowly becomeover-populated. One biological control method isto stock one sunfish (bluegill). Sunfish are vora-cious and aggressive enough to eat all eggs and fryin most pools.

FISH DISEASES

Disease strikes most pools at some time and isalmost always preceded by stress on the fish.Stress has a wide variety of causes. Some signs ofstress, disease, or parasites are easy to spot andwatching for them should become a part of yourpool maintenance routine. The most commonsigns are a reduction or cessation of feeding,piping (sucking air at the surface), flashing(quickly turning sideways and rubbing onobjects), whirling, or visible sores anddiscolorations. There are more than 100known diseases and parasites that can

14

Pools add natural beauty

to our environment.

This publication was prepared by Michael Masser, Extension FisheriesSpecialist, Associate Professor, Fisheries and Allied Aquacultures, and ElizabethAnderson, Extension Graduate Assistant, both at Auburn University.

For more information, call your county Extension office. Look inyour telephone directory under your county’s name to find the number.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work in agriculture and home economics, Acts of May 8 and June30, 1914, and other related acts, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The AlabamaCooperative Extension System (Alabama A&M University and Auburn University) offers educational programs,materials, and equal opportunity employment to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, religion,sex, age, veteran status, or disability. UPS, 10M30, Rep. 6:96, ANR-789ANR-789