New Breed of Indonesian Fashion Designers

42 MARCH the peak

IndonesIan fashIon desIgners seem to be gettIng younger, wIth creatIvIty and ambItIon to match. TiTania Veda sees that once theIr organIsatIonal capacIty catches up they stand to conquer the world.

photography AA KRESNA

Shaping a faShionable future

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the peak MARCH 43

ithin the warehouse-grey

walls of The Goods Dept

in Plaza Indonesia are

tables and racks of latest

and trendiest fashion

items by Indonesian designers – lumberjack

shirts, zipped-up denim jeans, swinging cotton

dresses, and hooded baby jumpers, among

others.

The cuts are simple, solids are

predominant, and fabrics are light. The clothes

are modern, fashionable, and totally wearable

in Jakarta. They cost a fraction of the price of

foreign designer brands.

A few years ago, it would have been hard to

find ready-to-wear pieces from a local designer.

When the upper echelons of society were not

requesting custom-made evening gowns and

bridal wear from the designers, they flocked to

international brand names to maintain their

status symbol.

But a change was due. A new generation of

designers are making their mark by creating

affordable, ready-to-wear lines and collections

featuring traditional fabrics. They are filling

a gap in the Indonesian fashion market,

normally saturated by made-to-order designs

and imported brands.

The rise of Indonesian designers has come

in several waves. More recently, stores carrying

local brands have begun appearing in malls

– Fashion First in Senayan City, Level One in

Grand Indonesia, and The Goods Dept in Plaza

Indonesia.

Coupled with the birth of Jakarta Fashion

Week in 2008, which provided a much-needed

platform for local talent, this support system

has enabled designers to reach larger market

segments.

Many designers, like Soetjipto Hoeijaja,

view Fashion First as the pioneer supporter of

Indonesian designers. The boutique functions

as an incubation hub for young designers,

providing them an opportunity to compete

with international brands and a place to

showcase their ready-to-wear collections.

“Before Fashion First, there was only Biyan

and Seba in the malls. Now there is an increase

in entrepreneurship in the fashion world.

It's created an awareness that Indonesia has

talent,” said Soetjipto, a menswear designer

whose collection can be found in both Fashion

First and his Level One shop.



44 MARCH the peak

While Fashion First displays high-end collections by local designers who

made their mark in the custom-made market, the middle income bracket

is served by Brightspot Market and The Goods Dept with their cheap and

chic collections. Before it became a permanent store with over 100 brands,

The Goods Dept began as a pop-up market called Brightspot. The organisers

wanted to create something different for the retail scene in Jakarta.

“You saw imported brands like Top Shop and Zara and the local

brands, which were surviving off custom-made orders. Then there was

this group doing something interesting – not high-end custom, not

distros (discount clothing warehouses) but something more exciting and

more fashion-focused,” says Chris Kerrigan, business development head of

PT Bright Spot Indonesia.

As the popularity of affordable local brands soared due to Brightspot

Market, Grand Indonesia created Level One as part of their corporate

social responsibility program. The mall invited 22 designers to open their

own shops, charging them subsidised rent.

“We took the risk of asking the designers to join us. But they had

to promise consistency in quality, quantity, and variety,” says Teges

Prita Soraya, senior marketing communications manager of PT. Grand

Indonesia. “It’s easy enough to put a rack in a store or post your items on

Facebook to sell, but if you have shop in a mall beside top international

brands like Zara and Forever 21, it’s harder,” says Teges.

gaInIng publIc acceptance“The main value of a designer is in his name and products. So it’s easier to

sell if you have an international attachment to it, whether you’ve studied

overseas or have had your products placed there,” says Jeffry Tan, who

launched his brand two years ago. Not all designers are so lucky. But that

is where spaces like Fashion First come in.

“In Indonesia, there are a lot of good designers but they lack

resources. We should nurture and help them,” said Deli Makmur, owner

of Fashion First. “The young talents are the ones shaping our fashion

future,” Deli says.

When Stella Rissa made her debut in 2008, after graduating from

Esmod Jakarta, public acceptance of designers was pretty sparse. “I

wanted to take my brand outside first so Indonesians could appreciate

it when I returned,” said Stella, whose clean-cut designs have entered

boutiques in Jakarta, Bali and Singapore.

But as public awareness grows through these supporting channels, the

market is rapidly moving towards the designers. With the help of fashion

organisations such as Cita Tenun Indonesia and Rumah Pesona Kain,

designers have begun to develop traditional textiles.

Recently, tenun woven fabric is hot on the heels of the omnipresent

batik thanks to high-end designers like Priyo

Oktaviano and newcomer Vinora Ng, who

are constructing new, modern and exciting

silhouettes with the fabric.

“Now women are wearing their Priyo and

Ari Seputra outfits as alternatives to their

Prada,” says fashion guru Muara Bagdja.

Without a doubt, Indonesia’s strong

suit lies in textiles. But not all designers are

veering towards them. “The likes of Jason

Wu and Alexander Wang come from ethnic

backgrounds. Yet each of them has a style that

doesn’t necessarily bring their ethnicity or

countries to the table,” Stella argues.

Many of the younger designers share this

view, eschewing tradition in place of trendy,

modern styles that can be easily produced

by a home industry. A collective, cheap chic

style has emerged. Prices are low, fabrics are

polyester or cotton-based, and more attention

is paid to cuts and layers.

“But,” Muara insists, “even if the prices and

fabrics are the same, if you look at the brands

closely, they have their own uniqueness.

The strength and distinctiveness of a brand

depends on how designers position their

branding in fashion shows and magazine

editorials,” Muara says.

Besides branding, price is also a

determining factor of a designer’s survival.

Consumers understand the value of a custom-

made gown but not necessarily the high price

tag of a ready-to-wear dress.

“Sometimes we feel designers are

underselling themselves, pricing things low

because they don’t think the market will buy

at higher prices,” Kerrigan says.

“What differentiates the generations is

business versus image,” according to Fashion

First owner Deli Makmur. “For the young, a

profit of Rp100,000 is OK as long as they can

cover production costs. The profit they make

won’t be much but their spirit of competition

“now women are wearIng theIr prIyo and arI seputra outfIts as alternatIves to theIr prada,” says fashIon guru muara bagdja.



the peak MARCH 45

is there – let’s open our business first. While

the seniors are image-driven. They already have

a character. But it’s a process,” says Deli.

rIse of pret a porterNevertheless, ready-to-wear is taking the

country by a storm. Made-to-order designers

are jumping on the bandwagon to get a piece

of the retail pie. Couturiers Deden Siswanto

and Tex Saverio, who specialise in evening and

bridal wear, are planning their second lines.

“As designers we can be more business-

oriented and minimalist in our designs or we

can create fashion as art. I choose to be both,

which is why I'm coming out with my second

line,” says Deden. But he insists on creating

a deluxe second line that won’t appear in

department stores because he understands

that Indonesian consumers remain fashion-

obsessed and image-conscious. “At an event,

they don’t want to see their twins walking

around,” Deden says.

It is for this reason many designers make

only limited copies of each design for their

ready-to-wear collections – one in each size, S,

M, L, or depending on the availability of the

fabric. Vinora is restricted by her choice of

fabric – tenun, which is handmade, takes a long

time to weave, and is expensive.

Others simply chose not to produce

something for the masses because they aren’t

able to compete with cheap imports from

China and Thailand that have permeated the

market. “I don’t want to make something very

commercial because I don’t want to compete

but I don’t want to charge exorbitant prices

either,” says Jeffry, whose price covers the

reasonable range of Rp 250,000 for a shirt to Rp

3.5 million for a frock.

rough waters of retaIlDealing with pricing, marketing and

distribution issues are at the top of every

designer’s checklist. While fashion shows and

events such as Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) help

create awareness of local talent, designers are

(top left)Stella’s current collection is a continuation of ‘Women’s Possession’, which she created for JFW 2010. It is a line she dedicated to all women - “not only those in fashion, but to mothers, and daughters, and wives.”

(top right)Catering for the modern and independent woman, Priyo’s creations embodies pure elegance and artistry, clearly shown in this masterpiece of intricate crochet detailing.



46 MARCH the peak

concerned retail figures aren’t soaring faster.

“In Indonesia, shows are not yet generating

economy. It is more for marketing because

buyers are still lacking,” says Soetjipto.

This gap between the designers and

consumers is something Svida Alijahbana,

President Director/COO of Femina Group and

chairwoman of Jakarta Fashion Week, is well

aware of: “But it’s a question of the chicken or

the egg. Which should grow first? Our designers

are not known and the attraction for buyers to

come isn’t there yet. We still have to grow, to

bring awareness of our designers and make sure

they’re good,” she says.

This begets the question – are the

designers ready?

Fashion experts agree that designers are

more than capable of competing in the global

arena when it comes to designs and creativity.

But not their capacity.

“If a designer gets an order for 10,000 pieces,

can they handle it, technically?” asks Muara.

Much of the industry is reliant on home

industries. Jeffry Tan’s atelier combines his

office and workshop, which accommodates his

seven tailors. Priyo, who once showcased his

creations to Michelle Obama, has an in-house

staff of 20. Stella has a small workshop in Bali

and Jakarta, but refrains from using traditional

materials because they are expensive and not

easily accessible.

“Designers have production issues. Most

factories won't take small designers so they do

all production on their own,” said Kerrigan.

“Material sources are also an issue. Unless

they are buying in huge quantities (thousands

of metres), there is a big limit on what's

available,” he adds.

a helpIng hand Meanwhile, it is up to the designers. Although

there is insufficient government support

in terms of funding and promotion of local

fashion, there is hope. Designers can tap into

organizations like Cita Tenun Indonesia,

the Indonesian Fashion Designers Council

(IPMI) and the Indonesian Fashion Designers

Association (APPMI) to get better exposure and

reach the global market.

This May, Teges is showcasing her Level One

designers to Blueprint, Singapore’s fashion

trade show, while the Femina Group will be

collaborating with Milan’s leading fashion and

design school, Instituto Marangoni to hold a

three-day seminar for JFW participants.

“The seminar will be an opportunity to help

our designers catch the upcoming trends and

teach them how to create a collection – from

context to design to execution,” says Svida, who

believes Indonesian designers have what it takes

to achieve success in the international stage.

“I hope to see Shanghai, Tokyo, Hong

Kong, Sydney and Jakarta fashion on the rise.

Jakarta has to be on the fashion map because

we don’t only have the designers, but also the

history of textiles and accessories – more so

than any other region. We should do well in all

peripherals of fashion,” she concludes.

His clothes may resemble fashion museum pieces but for image-conscious Indonesians, a Tex Saverio dress allows them to don magnificence. Something like wearing art itself.



the peak MARCH 47

the WorlD iS their oYSterphotography AA KRESNA

prIyo oKtavIanoIn a matter of seven short years, Priyo Oktaviano

has shot up into the forefront of the fashion

scene because of his flair for the edgy and

eclectic. Celebrities like Anggun and Agnes

Monica and local fashionistas flock to his frocks

and are happy to stimulate the local economy

to obtain one of his pieces – be it a custom-made

gown from his first line, Priyo Oktaviano, or a

funky top from his second line, Spous.

After being invited for three consecutive

years to be a Dewi Fashion Knight – a

prestigious mention during Jakarta Fashion

Week for the year’s hottest designers –

and working under Nicolas Ghesquière at

Balenciaga in Paris, he is certainly a designer

who understands both the Indonesian and the

global market.

His clothes remains bold and fresh, even as

they evolve from using plain European fabric

to exploring traditional Indonesian textiles

such as ikat, tenun and songket. Playing with

fabric and colours, his pieces are consistent

in maintaining the detailing and modern

silhouettes that Priyo has become known for.



48 MARCH the peak

soetjIpto hoeIjajaOne of the few designers concentrating on

everyday menswear, Soetjipto Hoeijaja, 25, is

partial to the tailored look. The man who decks

himself in No’om by Soetjipto need not be a

metrosexual. He need only be a modern man

who appreciates a bit of the dapper and the

dandy.

With a strong design presence in Level

One, his collection features affordable basic

menswear such as pants, shirts, and vests.

Though he remains conservative when it comes

to his colour palette of blacks and silvers,

No’om is a menswear line that calls upon

Soetjipto’s unique interpretation of classic.

An outfit may look ordinary from afar,

but come closer and the marrying of mixed

fabrics – such as a polyester blazer with a

leather trimmed collar – will be visible. His

upcoming womenswear line, No’mi, keeps to

his loose and tailored style. It maintains a hint

of masculinity, channeling the androgynous

looks of YSL and Celine.

No’mi will be launched in March 2011.

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the peak MARCH 49the peak MARCH 49

teX saverIoImagine ballgowns, princesses, ice-queens, and

fairy tales. That is exactly what the elfin Tex

Saverio does - create a fantasy. His dramatic

gowns billow, waists are corseted to shapely

perfection, bosoms are uplifted. A designer

untarnished by formal fashion education, Rio,

27, first burst into the scene in 2010.

His pieces are theatrical spectacles by

themselves, able to be carried by women strong

enough not to be overwhelmed by his evening

and bridal wear. Not to be mistaken for gaudy

glamour, Rio’s gowns are striking but classy

with asymmetrical lines that sweep the figure,

laser cuts, and layered motifs. Each piece takes

two to three painstakingly long months to

design and construct. To add to that, there is

Rio’s unusual choice of fabric, anging from

dyed feathers to synthetic skin. He is, indeed,

one of the few young designers keeping in line

with the Old Guard who treasure the creation

of fashion as art.



50 MARCH the peak

stella rIssaIf there is anyone who understands a

woman’s curves, it is Stella Rissa. Her choice

of fabric and cuts create silhouettes that fall

ever so flatteringly over a woman’s many

dimensions. Whether she is experimenting

with deconstructed lines or touches upon a

lingerie-inspired theme, Stella creates for the

every woman – for the girl, the mother, the

daughter, the wife, the professional.

Since she burst onto the fashion scene

in 2008 with her debut collection “Dancing

in the Rainbow”, Stella, 25, has consistently

won regional accolades. Creating clothes

to accentuate a woman’s allure, Stella does

timeless with a twist, such as classic lines with

a surprise feature or a dash of fuschia to a

subtle black gown.

During Jakarta Fashion Week 2010, she

held the prestigious title as one of the five

Dewi Fashion Knights. This year she is aiming

higher, fleshing out a deluxe ready-to-wear

line of lace, tulle, and gabardine to clothe the

mature lady in her own boutique.

The Stella Rissa boutique will launch in

Grand Indonesia in early April 2011.



the peak MARCH 51

deden sIswantoBandung-based designer Deden Siswanto is what one would call a

couturier. Since the late ‘90s, he has been fashioning custom-made clothes

for upscale clients – individuals seeking a stand-out piece. A graduate of

Bandung’s Intermodel fashion school, Deden started his career as a simple

tailor working as a children’s clothes designer at a department store.

His was a steady rise. For the last eight years, Deden has been the head

of the Association of Indonesian Fashion Designers (APPMI) of Bandung.

Deriving inspiration from different cultures, eras, and folklore, his clothes

revolves around vintage and romantic styles, with a touch of ethnic.

He is best known for his evening and bridal

wear, swathing women’s curves in waves of

chiffon and organza. Meanwhile, the ready-

to-wear menswear line he developed for the

Fashion First boutique is clean-cut. But the use

of sheer fabrics like voile, and minor detailing

add an impish allure.

A deluxe ready-to-wear line for women is

planned for April 2011.

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52 MARCH the peak

jeffry tanSimple, effortless, and subtle are words

that best describe Jeffry Tan. The designer

from Surabaya took the long way around

to establishing his own brand, which is just

two years in the making. Jeffry, 27, honed his

skills in a side of the fashion industry most

designers do not venture to – working for

five years with fabric manufacturers and in

factories – in order to obtain a wide-angled

view of the fashion machine as a whole.

The result? A limited ready-to-wear line

with pieces that veer on edge of classic and

whimsical, technically sound yet priced

accessibly. On his racks can be found both a

Jackie-O shift crafted out of light wool and a

pair of jeans with cut-out sides and red leather

detailing. His upcoming fall/winter collection

gets cosy with knits and combed wool for

his menswear line, while women will have

a chance to drape themselves in his loose,

layered basics.



the peak MARCH 53

vInora ngA fresh face that will soon be a household name, Vinora Ng, 21, can still

hold her own among the fashion heavy-weights. Her talent was first

recognised when she won the 2009 Fashion Design Competition for her

designs using North Sulawesi weaves.

The Esmod graduate has a penchant for Indonesian textiles, fusing

traditional weaves with straightforward designs. She foregoes the

ubiquitous batik, choosing the thicker weaves of ikat and tenun from

Sumba, Bali, Lampung, and Garut.

She pulls off playful looks like her

voluminous shift in heavy fabrics and artful, with

her seamless gatherings on a five-layered laser-

cut vest. Focusing on high quality traditional

fabrics and dynamic but simple cuts, Vinora is

carving a niche market with her exclusive ready-

to-wear line for both men and women.

Her store is set to open in late 2011.

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New Breed of Indonesian Fashion Designers