Eftal

Natural Hair & Beauty The Magazine 2007

editor’s Letter Welcome to Eftal! Whether you’ve been wearing your hair natural for years or you’re only now considering putting the relaxer to rest, this brief guide is for you. At Eftal Natural Hair we pride ourselves in taking the optimum care of your hair, be it in locs, braids or a weave. We use only the finest natural products and processes to ensure you leave our salon looking and feeling bet-ter than when you first came in! Our reputation is such that we’ve grown rapidly, opening a new salon in Hackney to add to our Seven Sisters branch. So why not come and experience Eftal for yourself? There’s never been a better time. Tosin Talabi Owner Eftal Natural Hair

Contents Features

4 In the beginning So, you want to go natural but don’t know where to begin? Follow our guide.

7 Natural Selections Check out our portfolio of styles for men, women and children with natural hair. 9 Braids and Weaves Alternatives for sisters who want extra length in an instant. 11 Nappy Ever After

The best products for keeping your nappy head happy.

12 Ask Tosin Your questions answered.

13 Glossary Natural hair terms explained. 14 Salon Focus All you need to know about Eftal.

WHAT does your hair say about you? If you sport a chemically-tamed mane does that mean y o u ’ r e c u l t u r a l l y disconnected? And is w e a r i n g a n A f r o emblematic of your political beliefs? While these arguments may be symbolic of the socia l and cultural discourse of the sixties and seventies walk down any inner city street in the UK today and you’d be

hard pressed not to notice the growth of a new trend. The natural is making a comeback. Be it an Afro, dreadlocks, twists or braids British people of African descent are wearing a multiplicity of natural designs, embracing not just a hairstyle but a lifestyle too. In recent years a quiet revolution has been taking place in the collective black consciousness,

creating a new economic base in the hair and lifestyle industry. Chemical relaxers and straightening irons are rapidly being replaced by essential oils and elegant headwraps. People of African descent the world over are literally going back to their roots, spurred on by a generation of high-profile culturally-conscious artists making waves in popular culture. Think India Arie and Jill Scott,

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EFTAL IS ALL ABOUT EMBR EFTAL IS ALL ABOUT EMBR

“Now, speak of resistance, we’re nappy heads Rhymes, kinks, braids and dreads

The mother of creation, epitome of creativity, yeah And keep your heads nappy.”

The Fugees, Nappy Heads

Maxwell and D’Aneglo, Lauryn Hill and Erykah B a d u , w h o w a s a m b a s s a d o r f o r Adornment, the natural hair and lifestyle show earlier this year. “The whole way of thinking around natural hair and locs has changed beyond recognition and is not what is was fifteen or even ten years ago,” says Margot Rodway-Brown, director of Adornment. “There’s a sense of people reclaiming their right to look like themselves where in the wider society they’ve always been told they should be embracing a European aesthetic. Things have changed tremendously. And that’s not just in the UK but right across the Diaspora communities around the world, in the Caribbean, the USA, and in Europe.” Hair has always played an important role in African culture. In many African societies a woman’s tresses are seen as a marker of social and political standing, speaking both to an ancient history and the present state of a living culture. Hair has also been used as an expression of creativity. African women

have traditionally crafted styles that are little short of works of art, with their intricate creations making

their way from the streets of Accra, Dakar and Cape Town to London, Paris and Amsterdam. Tosin Talabi, manager of Eftal Natural Hair and Beauty salons in North and East London says black people are experimenting with their hair more than ever. In the last three

years Eftal has expanded three times to cater for demand. “Eftal’s not just about hair. It’s about

embracing your natural self—mind, body & soul.” This is an extrapolation of an article that originally appeared on the BBC Africa Beyond website. Sylvia Arthur is editor of W h a t ’ s O n G h a n a magazine available to buy at www.whatsonghana.com.

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ACING YOUR NATURAL SELFACING YOUR NATURAL SELF

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The Men’s Room Whether you’re a professional brother or a man about town follow our tips for keeping your locs groomed.

MEN, don’t feel left out when it comes to taking care of your mane. At Eftal we offer a range services and products to keep your locs groomed and your scalp in tip-top condition. We can also style your locks, cornrow your natural hair or do just about any other natural style you can think of. With our highly-trained team of male and female locticians and stylists our client list and portfolio is something to be proud of. Just drop by and ask how we can assist your styling needs. Eftal has experience of maintaining both organic

and crafted locs so you can trust us to keep your look tight. W e c a n a l s o recommend grooming services to you through our extensive network of specialist styling partners, including barbering and other salon services specifically for men. Maintaining locs is very different from maintaining other hair styles. While other hair styles require combing to put stray hairs back in place, locs need to have stray hairs tucked back into the dred so they can dred up and lock with the rest of the hair. But like other hair styles locs to need to be kept clean. Contrary to popular belief, clean locs lock up and tighten faster than dirty locs. So whether you’re going to the VIP lounge at the club or heading to the boardroom, don’t let the sisters upstage you. Let Eftal work our magic on your mane for that standout look that will have all the heads turning.

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Style Council

GET READY to do the twist and turn heads when you unveil your mane of corkscrew curls or twists. This popular style fashioned from natural hair is easy to achieve but the results are truly stunning. First, wash your hair with a herbal shampoo ensuring you cleanse the scalp thoroughly. At Eftal we use our specially-developed hair build-up remover to get to the root of hair problems resu l t ing from excessive product usage. Next, apply a deep conditioner to your tresses making sure the cream goes from the root to the tip of each hair strand. This will fortify your locks and allow the conditioner to get to work. Leave the conditioner on for at least two minutes after working through the hair. T h e n , w a s h o u t t h e conditioner and towel dry the hair. Eftal can apply a unique herbal rinse to your hair that will leave your scalp feeling ultra refreshed. Part the hair in to four sections then twist two strands of equal thickness together until you’ve competed the whole head. Finally, style in a sweeping up-do or let your hair flow free.

TOP TIPS FOR TIP TOP NATURAL HAIR • Ensure your scalp is thoroughly conditioned • Use essential oils like Aloe to lightly grease the scalp • Wash hair regularly with a herbal shampoo • Always condition after washing • Indulge in a herbal steam every 3 months

Corkscrew curls or tightly coiled twists,

the choice is yours

Kiddie style

LITTLE people deserve great hair too and there’s no better styling option for young children than natural hair styles. Cornrows, twists and braid styles are versatile and long lasting and are perfect for the rough and

tumble of school life. At Eftal we pride ourselves on our portfolio for children so you can rest assured in the knowledge that you’re leaving your little ones hair in safe hands. At our salons we have a range of services especially tailored to children to keep them entertained while they’re doing their hair or you’re

doing yours. Check out our guide to the best hairstyles for little people: Cornrows This clean and classic look will take your kids from the classroom to the playground and they’ll

still come home looking fresh. Cornrows are quick to do and lasts from anything between two to four weeks. Wear going all the way down or in a stylish up-do. Decorate with beads for an added touch of class. Dreadlocks More and more youngsters are growing their hair in locks, a

sure sign that the style is s u i t a b l e f o r e v e r y generation. Locks are a good style for children because they can be worn in a variety of funky ways during the various growth stages.

Braids A favourite among little girls, braids are low maintenance and can be worn in a multiplicity of styles. The advantage of braids is that kids can virtually roll out of bed and in to school with minimum hair fuss. For that extra special touch, dress with decorative clips, bands and other accessories.

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Braids, weaves & twists For sisters who like to try before they buy, opting for a style using extensions is ideal for commitment-phobes.

YOUR styling options are endless if, like millions of women, you decide to opt for braids or a weave. If you’re unsure whether to commit to the lengthy process of growing locks then choosing a style that uses extensions will give your hair a well-deserved break and give you a taster of l i fe without the chemical dependency. Here’ a brief list of what’s available if you decide to go down this well worn route. Braids C h o o s e y o u r preference, from micro braids to jumbo plaits and everything in between. The beauty of braids is that they can be worn long or short, straight or curly, tied back or left loose as the whim takes you. Depending on whether you use human or synthetic hair (see below) your imagination is the only limit to the number of styles at your disposal. A great option for those who like to spend as little time as possi-ble in the salon, braids are perfect for busy women on the go.

Weaves Quick and easy to apply, weaves are a firm favourite among African-descended women because they can be manipulated in to a variety of styles. Bonded to the scalp by sewing or glue, the hair is then styled in a look of your choice. Wigs By far the cheapest and easi-est option, the beauty of wearing a wig is that you can change styles every day if you choose without the hassle of visiting a salon. Invest in a well-fitting, well-styled wig to carry you through periods of tempo-rary hair drama. But, be warned, wig wearing is not

for the faint-hearted. If you’re a worrier then even the slightest gust of wind will set your heart racing! Be sure to secure your wig with slides and you’ll be set for any eventuality. Human Hair A hair that can be styled using heat products like tongs and blow dryers. Gives a more authentic look and feel as opposed to the rougher texture of synthetic hair. Best used for micro braid styles and weaves.

Synthetic Hair A cheaper hair that can’t be manipulated using heat styling. However, the benefits of synthetic hair is that the ends can be burnt for a neater, cleaner look. Best used on jumbo braid styles and cornrows using extensions.

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Earth Sisters Choosing to go natural will mean you’ll be following in the footsteps of these beautiful and successful sisters.

LAURYN HILL (right) The multi-platinum star has sported afro-puffs, locs and wigs, inspiring women the world over to embrace their true beauty. INDIA.ARIE The Acoustic Soul singer-songwriter has always worn her hair with pride and even composed an anthem liberating us from our hair struggles. CASSANDRA WILSON The jazz diva’s trademark long blonde locs always look divine. ERYKAH BADU T h e c h a m e l e o n - l i k e neo-soul singer has worn everything from locs to afro wigs to a close shorn mane. FLOETRY The British soul duo made it Stateside staying true to their roots, sporting locs and afros, repping UK style. ALICIA KEYS The woman who bought cornrows back has recently switched up her look but Ms Keys will always be

remembered for her rows. JILL SCOTT B i g , b e a u t i f u l a n d exceptionally gifted, Ms Scott’s ‘fro is a winner. KELIS Who can forget Kelis’ tightly

coiled pink and blonde curls circa 2000? TONI MORRISON A long mane of mature locs elegantly adorn the ac-claimed writer, a testimony to her vast life experience and character.

Products for naturals

NOW that you’ve made the life-changing decision to go natural it’s all down to the maintenance. Despite the common misconception that natural hair requires little attention compared to relaxed styles, the upkeep of strong, beautiful locks takes as much effort as looking after any other hairstyle at home. While Eftal stock a range of exclusive salon-only vegetable-based products

including shampoos, conditioners and daily hair care treatments there are several cheap but effective options available in your local Afro hair store. Check out our selection of the best m a s s m a r k e t products for keeping your hair looking as

good as when you left the salon. F o r s h i n e : W e recommend Organic Root Stimulator® Olive Oil Nourishing Sheen Spray, £3.99 455ml (above). For daily conditioning: We recommend Better Locks Light Almond Conditioning Oil, £1.99 for 300ml (above right) or Stylin’ Dreadz Hair Spray, £1.99 for 300ml.

For touching up errant locks: We recommend Stylin’ Dreadz Locking Gel, £1.99. This gel should keep even the most stubborn locks tidy. For complete care of natural hair: We recommend the entire Dark & Lovely Naturals

range (below left), which includes everything you need for daily and intense care of your natural hair. Try Honey Kissed Hair Dress, £2.49 for 100g / 3.5oz to keep your scalp in optimum condition and Tea Tree Oil Loc and Twist Butter, £2.49 for 114g / 4oz for re-twisting. For a r e f r e s h i n g s h a m p o o experience we recommend Sooth ing Senna and Peppermint Shampoo, £2.49.

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Q: What are locs? In essence, locs are sections of hair, which over a period of time, mesh and entwine together to form what is called a "loc". Eventually, the locked hair will mesh so tightly that it will be nearly impossible to unmesh, at which stage the locks be-come permanent and must be cut off if loose hair is desired. Q: What are the different types of locs and how are they created?

Organic Locs are started and maintained completely without ma-nipulation. Hair is washed and left alone.

No combing, no separating,

no softening products, no interference. This method will create locs of different sizes and shapes. It is a method preferred by Rasta-farians. Freeform Locs are started by simply washing your hair and leaving it alone to bud on its own. Buds are the characteristic "balls" and "folds" that form on sections of hair when shed hair is not combed out. Once the locs begin to form buds, the buds may be gently separated by hand until the desired thick-ness is achieved. Cultivated Locs can be started with two strand twists, braids, comb twists, single twists or palm rolls and all methods require maintenance when starting off either by a loctician in a salon or by yourself quite easily. If you want your locs tight to the scalp, you will have to dedicate some time to separate and re-tighten the locs at the base. If you don't mind the fuzzy base look, you don't have to manipulate as much. It's up to you. Q: How long will it take my hair to lock? It all depends on how tightly coiled or bent your hair strands are. Usually, the nappier your hair, the faster it will lock. It may take any

where from 6 months to 18 months for hair to com-pletely lock, depending on your hair and the method chosen. Q: Can I colour or bleach my locs? Yes! It is always best to visit a professional hairdresser to colour or bleach your locs, but you can always try one of the commercial prepara-tions yourself if you have the skill and confidence to do it yourself. Q: Once I have locs are my styling options lim-ited? Just like loose hair, as your locs grow, so do your styling options. You can set them on rods or curlers, you can crimp them, spiral them, braid them and twist them. You can wear them up or down. Your options are only limited by your efforts and creativity. Q: How do I maintain my locs? To successfully grow long locs you will have to groom them, just as with any hair type. It is a myth that mature and rooted locs do not need routine maintenance. They will need to be kept soft, clean and healthy.

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If you’d like your question answered by Eftal’s natural hair expert, email asktosin@eftal.com.

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A Afro Twists

Two strand twists created by wrapping

one strand of hair around another.

C Crochet

A method that is emerging all over the

country, by corn braiding natural hair

into a specific pattern. Then, synthetic hair is hooked into the corn-braid using a crochet-

ing needle.

D Dreads

(also called Dread-

locks or Locs) A committed style that

can be achieved by leaving braids in

longer than the sug-gested time length

while the hair locks at the roots. Not all dreads begin with

braided hair -AND- braiding is NOT the best method to begin

locks. Some dreads are begun by teasing the

hair or simply leaving it uncombed. Some are started and maintained by using other locking

methods.

K Kanekalon

Typically referred to as

"synthetic hair" and used for a variety of

low maintenance hair styles. Kanekalon hold up very well for braid styles requiring burn-ing and it has a me-

dium flame threshold (i.e. it with stands a fair degree of heat before bubbling.)

As with human hair, Kanekalon is also

lended for bulk and provides an alternative

feel when braiding. S

Senegalese Twists A technique that origi-nated in Senegal that is done by twirling and locking the hair at the

base of the scalp. Silky (dread)

locks A style in which syn-thetic hair is wrapped around braided natural

or synthetic hair. Sister Locks

A thin interlocking technique used for

creating dreadlocks. Visit

www.sisterlocks.com for more info.

Y Yarn locks

This braided style con-sists of wrapping yarn around natural braided hair and finishing it off by burning the ends of

the yarn.

GLOSSARYGLOSSARY

From

Loc formation £35 Full head wash and retwist £30 Crochet Locs £70 Loc styling £10 Build-up remover in locs £15 Natural cornrow £20 Natural twist £35 Single plait extension £50 Weave £50 Herbal rinse £10 Wash and steam £20 Colouring (seaweed) £25

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